Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #72

skin
Cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie,
Terri Vinson, Bsc. DipFormChem. DipEd. ASCC,
gives us the lowdown on arguably the most
important skincare step: cleansing.
It seems the market has been flooded recently with
a massive influx of different types of facial cleansers.
Whether it’s foams, gels, oils, scrubs or balms, the
‘cleanser’ category represents a massive and rapidly
growing sector of the skincare market.
It is important to remember that not all cleansers are
created equal so let’s cut through the hype and take a look
at how each cleanser really performs.
Water-based cleansers
Water-based cleansers containing surfactants attract oil
and impurities from the skin so they can be easily removed
from the skin’s surface. This type of cleanser includes
foaming gels and non-foaming lotions. I recommend a
foaming cleanser for normal, combination and acne-prone
skin. Non-foaming lotion cleansers are usually oil in water
emulsions containing a lower level of surfactant and are
recommended for dry or sensitive skin.
The optimal pH for a water-based cleanser is around 5.6
(slightly acidic). This is actually the natural pH of skin so
irritation is minimised. A good facial cleanser must be mild
and not disrupt the natural barrier function of the skin.
Micellar water
Micellar water cleansers are relatively new in the market.
These types of cleansers are popular for a quick makeup
removal or for time-poor people who do not have the time
to thoroughly cleanse.
What exactly are ‘micelles’? Micelles are ball-shaped
clusters of surfactant molecules, with the water-loving heads
all around the outside and oil-loving tails pointing inwards in
the middle of the ball. These micelles act like magnets to
attract and lift dirt, oil and makeup from the skin.
Bar soaps
There are concerns regarding the effects of using soapbased
cleansers on the skin which often results in
irritation. Soaps exhibit a pH of around 9 and are generally
too harsh to be used on the facial skin. Soaps are created
by reacting oil with a strong alkali (base). They are effective
at stripping oil, dirt and impurities, but often result in skin
irritation. Alkaline products (with a pH over 9.0) disrupt
the natural acid mantle of the skin, resulting in irritation,
itching and dryness.
Powder cleansers
Powder cleansers are an emerging trend that originate
from Japan. Powder cleansers are a concentrate that
requires the addition of water to create a cleansing foam.
The benefit of these cleansers are that they exhibit a longer
shelf life and are very convenient for travelling as there are
no leakage risks.
The oil cleanser fad
Oil cleansing is a common fad in the cosmetic industry,
based on the premise that ‘oil dissolves oil’. The routine
often recommends ‘double cleansing’ with an initial cleanse
of the oil followed by a second cleanse with a water-based
foaming cleansing product. The initial oil cleansing step is
really an unnecessary part of the skincare routine unless you
are using heavy, waterproof makeup. If double cleansing is
needed, it should be with a water-based cleanser.
There is also media hype claiming that oil cleansing
removes oil associated with acne, blemishes and
congestion. This is a false assumption that congested
and blemished skin involves oil on the skin surface. The oil
associated with acne and congested skin is very complex
and involves processes deep below the skin surface. It is a
combination of imbalanced hormones, inflammation, dead
cells deep in the pores and excess acne bacteria causing
infection. Oil cleansers will not address this problem.
Furthermore, a layer of oil on the surface of the skin
will prevent penetration of your important water-based
serums (remember oil and water do not mix unless you
use a surfactant). Facial oils and moisturisers containing oil
should be the final step in your skin care routine and not the
initial step. Cleansing skin with oil is not a new cleansing
method and, as with many fads, this will pass. I believe oil
is great for removing waterproof mascara prior to normal
facial cleansing but I would definitely not recommend oil
cleansing for a deep facial cleanse.
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