Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #72

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skin the function of a cleanser is to remove excess surface oil, makeup and impurities without stripping the skin’s natural acid mantle Ingredients to avoid in facial cleansers When choosing a cleanser, it is important to avoid the addition of harsh surfactants such as sodium laureth sulphate (SLS). This ingredient is considered one of the most irritating surfactants; low-irritant cleansers are now made of milder foaming agents. Artificial fragrances can also cause skin irritation and allergy so it is best to use unscented or essential oil scented products. Examples of gentle foaming agents include: • Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate • Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate • Cocoamidopropyl Betaine • Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Exfoliating cleansers Exfoliation is a necessary element of all skincare routines. I do not believe that adding a chemical exfoliating agent such as lactic or salicylic acid to a cleanser will be as effective as adding these ingredients to products which will remain on the skin surface for a longer period. Physical exfoliants, however, are a better choice for rinse-off products, provided the particles are non-irritating and are suited to a particular skin type. Corundum crystals are an excellent choice for most skin types. These particles are almost chemically identical to sapphire, are uniform in size and are effective at removing dull surface cells and superficial blackheads. Rice powder is a better alternative choice for those with more sensitive skin. The micro bead exfoliants controversy I was given the opportunity to add exfoliating plastic microbeads to my range a decade ago and I declined. It was obvious then and even more so today that adding non-biodegradable substances such as plastic microbeads to rinse off products will have a negative impact on our waterways. Microbeads are actually banned by the FDA after the discovery of environmentally damaging levels of these fine granules in oceans, lakes and waterways in the USA. There are numerus environmentally friendly alternatives such as finely ground corundum minerals and plant-based particles. Active ingredients in cleansers The function of a cleanser is to remove excess surface oil, makeup and impurities without stripping the natural acid mantle of our skin. As a cosmetic chemist, I like to keep cleanser formulas as scientifically clean as possible without the addition of active cosmeceuticals. Beware of brands adding active ingredients in their cleansers, such as AHA and BHA exfoliants, vitamins or peptides. Cleansers are only in contact with the face for an average of 20 seconds and then are simply washed down the drain! There is very little time for active ingredients to work on the deeper layers of the skin if they are washed off in a few seconds. Cleansing is an essential part of your skin routine but it is only the preparation. There is certainly a vast array of options so the best advice is to: 1. Choose a cleanser that is best suited to your skin type and lifestyle 2. Don’t waste your money on cleansers with unnecessary active ingredients 3. Don’t get caught up on ‘fad cleansing rituals’ 4. Avoid soaps and cleansers and harsh ingredients such as artificial fragrance and sulfates 5. Avoid cleansers and exfoliants with synthetic microbead technology. Remember, cleansing is a vital step in your skincare routine. A clean canvas is essential before adding the active ingredients that truly make a visible difference to the look, feel and function of your skin. csbm 84 www.cosbeauty.com.au
eauty & spa SCENT STRAIGHT FROM HEAVEN THERE’S NOTHING BETTER THAN DISCOVERING A NEW FRAGRANCE, IT’S THE BEST WAY TO KICK-OFF A FRESH START! TAKE A LOOK AT THE SCENTS WE’RE SERIOUSLY CRUSHING OVER… OUR FAVES Calvin Klein Eternity Now, $89 for 100ml. A striking fragrance with a lively, fl oral scent, Eternity Now has top notes of nectarine and quince sorbet, heart notes of peony, peach blossom and neroli petals, and base notes of cashmere veil, ambrox and musk. Paco Rabanne Invictus Aqua EDT, $104 for 100ml. This adrenaline-rush cologne is one for the men – a fragrance that represents a sensually fresh and sporty creation. Si by Giorgio Armani, $160 for 100ml. An elegant, feminine fragrance that combines a cocktail of cassis nectar, chypre and light musky wood for an enchanting perfume. Chloé Signature EDT, $100 for 50ml. A vibrant, feminine fragrance with base notes of rose, magnolia and lily, as well as amber and cedarwood. Already on its way to becoming a modern classic, this is a truly special fragrance. www.cosbeauty.com.au 85
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Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #72

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