Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty #72

skin
the function of a
cleanser is to remove
excess surface oil, makeup
and impurities without
stripping the skin’s
natural acid mantle
Ingredients to avoid
in facial cleansers
When choosing a cleanser, it is important to avoid the
addition of harsh surfactants such as sodium laureth
sulphate (SLS). This ingredient is considered one of the
most irritating surfactants; low-irritant cleansers are now
made of milder foaming agents. Artificial fragrances can
also cause skin irritation and allergy so it is best to use
unscented or essential oil scented products.
Examples of gentle foaming agents include:
• Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
• Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Exfoliating cleansers
Exfoliation is a necessary element of all skincare routines. I
do not believe that adding a chemical exfoliating agent such
as lactic or salicylic acid to a cleanser will be as effective as
adding these ingredients to products which will remain on
the skin surface for a longer period.
Physical exfoliants, however, are a better choice for
rinse-off products, provided the particles are non-irritating
and are suited to a particular skin type. Corundum crystals
are an excellent choice for most skin types. These particles
are almost chemically identical to sapphire, are uniform in
size and are effective at removing dull surface cells and
superficial blackheads. Rice powder is a better alternative
choice for those with more sensitive skin.
The micro bead exfoliants controversy
I was given the opportunity to add exfoliating plastic
microbeads to my range a decade ago and I declined. It
was obvious then and even more so today that adding
non-biodegradable substances such as plastic microbeads
to rinse off products will have a negative impact on our
waterways. Microbeads are actually banned by the FDA
after the discovery of environmentally damaging levels
of these fine granules in oceans, lakes and waterways
in the USA. There are numerus environmentally friendly
alternatives such as finely ground corundum minerals and
plant-based particles.
Active ingredients
in cleansers
The function of a cleanser is to remove excess surface oil,
makeup and impurities without stripping the natural acid
mantle of our skin. As a cosmetic chemist, I like to keep
cleanser formulas as scientifically clean as possible without
the addition of active cosmeceuticals.
Beware of brands adding active ingredients in their
cleansers, such as AHA and BHA exfoliants, vitamins or
peptides. Cleansers are only in contact with the face for an
average of 20 seconds and then are simply washed down
the drain! There is very little time for active ingredients to
work on the deeper layers of the skin if they are washed off
in a few seconds.
Cleansing is an essential part of your skin routine but
it is only the preparation. There is certainly a vast array of
options so the best advice is to:
1. Choose a cleanser that is best suited to your skin type
and lifestyle
2. Don’t waste your money on cleansers with unnecessary
active ingredients
3. Don’t get caught up on ‘fad cleansing rituals’
4. Avoid soaps and cleansers and harsh ingredients such
as artificial fragrance and sulfates
5. Avoid cleansers and exfoliants with synthetic microbead
technology.
Remember, cleansing is a vital step in your skincare
routine. A clean canvas is essential before adding the
active ingredients that truly make a visible difference to the
look, feel and function of your skin. csbm
84 www.cosbeauty.com.au