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“India is the cradle of the human race, the birthplace of human speech, the mother of<br />

history, the grandmother of legend, and the great-grandmother of tradition. Our most<br />

valuable and most instructive materials in the history of man are treasured up in India only.<br />

So far as I am able to judge, nothing has been left undone, either by man or nature, to make<br />

India the most extraordinary country that the sun visits on his rounds. Nothing seems to<br />

have been forgotten, nothing overlooked. One land that all men desire to see, and having<br />

seen once, by even a glimpse, would not give up that glimpse for all the shows of all the rest<br />

of the globe combined.”<br />

Mark Twain, 1835-1910<br />

Dimitra<br />

Stasinopoulou<br />

Dimitra Stasinopoulou<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong><br />

Unity in Diversity<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong><br />

Unity in Diversity


“Since at the beginning and end of our lives we are completely<br />

dependent on the kindness of others, how can it be that in the<br />

middle we would neglect kindness toward others?”<br />

The Dalai Lama


<strong>INDIA</strong><br />

Unity in Diversity<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY - TEXT<br />

Dimitra Stasinopoulou


Copyright© Athens, March 2010<br />

Dimitra Stasinopoulou<br />

e-mail: dimitra@imedica.ro<br />

To my husband, Yiannis.<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY/ TEXT: Dimitra Stasinopoulou<br />

TEXT EDITING: Dimitris Ananiadis<br />

BOOK DESIGN: Phoebe Skotida<br />

COLOR SEPARATIONS/ MONTAGE: Nikos Alexiadis - TOXO OE<br />

PRINTING: Epikoinonia LTD<br />

BOOKBINDING: G. Iliopoulos<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or<br />

transmitted in any form or means without the permission of the copyright © holder.<br />

COMPLIMENTARY COPY<br />

Τhe Dharmachakra symbol, “the Wheel of Law”, is one of the oldest known<br />

Buddhist symbols found in Indian art, appearing with the first surviving<br />

post-Harappan Indian iconography, in the time of the Buddhist king<br />

Ashoka. The wheel (Sanskrit chakra) represents the teachings of the Buddha. The wheel<br />

also represents the endless cycle of samsara or rebirth. It symbolizes the Noble Eightfold<br />

Path that Lord Buddha taught: right view, right intention, right speech, right action, right<br />

livelihood, right effort, right mindfulness, and right concentration.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR<br />

Dimitra Stasinopoulou was born in Athens, Greece in 1953. After<br />

completing her studies, she worked in the banking sector for 20 years,<br />

and later on, in the family business in Romania. She discovered her<br />

love for photography in the last few years. Her fist book “Romania<br />

of my heart”, published in December 2005, was awarded with the<br />

Romanian UNESCO prize. Her second book “Bhutan, smiling faces<br />

from the roof of the world” was published in October 2008. Her pictures<br />

have been awarded in international photo-competitions and<br />

have been displayed in Greece and abroad.<br />

CONTENTS<br />

INTRODUCTION 6 - 17<br />

THE HIMALAYAS - Jammu & Kashmir • Ladakh 20 - 71<br />

THE NORTH - Amritsar • Haridwar • Rishikesh • Dharamsala 72 - 135<br />

RAJASTHAN - Jaipur • Udaipur • Pushkar • Deogarh • Ranakpur 136 - 201<br />

DELHI, AGRA, VARANASI 202 - 275<br />

MAHARASTRA - Mumbai • Goa 276 - 359<br />

THE SOUTH - Tamil Nadu • Kerala 360 - 447


INTRODUCTION<br />

My interest in photography came late in my life. Nevertheless, my love<br />

for this means of expression I believe, comes from the past, in those<br />

years where my eyes were stunned by the gleaming world and they<br />

craved to share it, turning it into something real by giving it to others. I<br />

began traveling and photographing places and people that were distant<br />

from the “modern” western way of life, and were traveling in the pages of<br />

history following another, different, course. I am most excited by people,<br />

places and cultures that have not been overtaken yet by the homogeneity<br />

of the west. I love the color and texture of those places, the vitality of<br />

life and their rituals and symbolisms. Ι shoot what moves me; I shoot<br />

from my heart to tell the visual stories I love and care about, discovering<br />

what it means seeing rather than merely looking. Photos are emotional<br />

experiences. I hope these pictures will move you the way I was moved<br />

when I took them.<br />

“…Sometimes my camera acts as a mirror. With it I can collect light and<br />

express what can’t be described with words. With it I can free myself from<br />

the world. In these images you can see my heart, these images are a ladder<br />

to my dreams”, as quoted from Gregory Colbert’s “Ashes and Snow“. I<br />

believe he is expressing poetically and with great accuracy every amateur<br />

and professional photographer, every person who has sensed the magic<br />

of capturing in a frame a little something from the light of people and<br />

nature.<br />

Ever since childhood I have felt a strong bond with India. First was<br />

with Rudyard Kipling’s “Jungle Book”, the story of Mowgli, the lost boy,<br />

who was raised by wolves in the jungles of India, learning not only the<br />

ways of the jungle, but also moral lessons from animals which could talk<br />

and reason. Gandhi followed. In my eyes, his teachings of non-violent<br />

resistance “wherever you are confronted with an opponent, conquer him<br />

with love”, posed immense meaning, a way of life that illuminated the<br />

greatness of humility in every action I saw around me. Enchanted by this<br />

uncharted new world, I didn’t know then I was signing a special check<br />

–with an open date-, for a debt so fundamentally personal, that it was<br />

bound to be redeemed at some future time by something truly mine.<br />

India was bound to be a priority destination in my travels. Although<br />

its territorial vastness, its huge population and the sometimes difficult<br />

conditions that prevail rather prevent one from its culture, the beauty<br />

of the landscape and the sweetness of the people, urge the visitor<br />

not to abandon the exploration, but to try and penetrate as deep as<br />

possible into this odd way of life with its deafening colors and mythical<br />

spiritual universe. There is an admiration for the magical coexistence<br />

of traditional culture, customs, and values with high technology and<br />

foreign infused values. In India you see rich and poor, but what you see<br />

more than anything else is an entire nation embracing life.<br />

I was privileged to visit India several times. I covered great distances<br />

starting from the high peaks of the Himalayas and the province of<br />

Ladakh - ‘The land of high passes’, ‘The land of lamas’ - and the Indus<br />

valley. To the North, the holy cities and famous pilgrimage centers of<br />

Rishikesh, Haridwar, Amritsar and Dharamsala known also as the “Little<br />

Lhasa”. Here the Tibetans are in exile since 1959, and is known all over<br />

the world from the teachings of the Dalai Lama. To the West, I visited<br />

Rajasthan, that represents the romance of India’s forts and palaces, with<br />

the cities of Jaipur, Udaipur, Ranakpur and Pushkar. Further down I<br />

encountered Delhi, the capital, Agra with the world famous Taj Mahal,<br />

and Varanasi, the holiest city of Hindus. I also «discovered» Mumbai,<br />

the metropolis and the financial center of India and Goa with its emerald<br />

coasts. To the South, Tamil Nadu with its great history and 2000 years<br />

old language and the city of Madurai, and finally Kerala and the port of<br />

Cochin, famous for their heritage and culture, arts, dance.<br />

I always felt I was just beginning my journey and had merely touched<br />

this glorious world and the way it perceives reality. The succession of<br />

images is so fast, that one can barely assimilate them. No cities or towns<br />

can represent the stereotype of India. All are unique. But the peculiar<br />

thing is that you can feel the presence of a strong and widely- spaced<br />

common cultural net encompassing all the individual Indian cultures.<br />

The blood circulating is common. Indians feel proud, calling this<br />

phenomenon ‘Unity in Diversity’.<br />

Especially in the Himalayas, where the following photographic journey<br />

begins, the natural beauty as well as the unique cultural scenery astounds<br />

the visitor. It is a landscape different from the image of the Indian world<br />

that we have in our minds: ancient Buddhist temples, boulders molded<br />

over the ages and ascetic clay-built settlements. Here we find populations<br />

that live in isolation, devoted to their Buddhist faith and cultivating the<br />

land in almost the same way their ancestors did thousands of years ago.<br />

Everywhere I went, I met an unparalleled cultural heritage and<br />

magnificent people, sometimes sad in their poverty, but always positive<br />

and peaceful within. Hindu people are the most compassionate, sweet<br />

and calm people anyone can come across. Violence is never part of<br />

their emotions. It is these people, with their disarming innocence, in<br />

reality, that represent the biggest treasure of the country, being carriers<br />

of the ancient yet still vibrant traditions and religious practices. I could<br />

of course meet only a fraction of the population of over one billion.<br />

Yet there is a common factor. These people have a natural dignity and<br />

pride, qualities which I hope will outlast the inevitable tide of change<br />

that comes with the increasing globalization. I have tried to capture the<br />

indomitable spirit and unique beauty which shines through their faces.<br />

It is amazing to see that even the poorest people in India respond<br />

with a warm smile. This reflects the inherent strength of the rich<br />

Indian civilization and culture. It was the smile of the poor Indians that<br />

Mahatma Gandhi, the father of the Nation, translated into power and<br />

finally obliged the British to leave the country, without any bloodshed<br />

and war on the part of India. This smile is the strength of Indian<br />

democracy which allows millions of Hindus to live with Muslims,<br />

Christians, Buddhists, Sikhs and others. They have lived for centuries<br />

in harmony, despite the existence of a caste system, different languages,<br />

ethnic and religious groups. It is this smile that brought in people from<br />

other countries to make India their home. India, a country that is<br />

already crowded with sorrows and needs of its own, has accommodated<br />

hundreds of thousands of refugees from Tibet, Iran, Afghanistan, Africa<br />

and Bangladesh. India’s generosity is best described by the Dalai Lama<br />

“…Tibet and India enjoyed a profound and centuries-old religious and<br />

cultural relationship. The Tibetan people’s deep sense of reverence for<br />

India is borne out by our reference to her as the Holy Land. We, Tibetans,<br />

have been living as refugees in India for fifty years now. Despite her own<br />

difficulties, India has been exceptionally generous in her assistance to<br />

us: resettling Tibetan refugees, preserving and promoting our religion<br />

and culture and providing educational facilities for our children. India’s<br />

generosity to our people must be clearly written in the history of Tibet.<br />

India serves as an example of religious tolerance, mutual respect and<br />

understanding among the followers of different faiths”.<br />

I recently read somewhere that once someone sets foot in India he<br />

immediately realizes how up until that moment he was colorblind and<br />

suddenly he discovers how colorful the world really is. Indians know and<br />

control color through intuition. The Indian view of life resonates with<br />

optimism. Even at death white is the color of mourning but it is also the<br />

color of life – it is the color that bonds life and death.<br />

You will not find another place on the face of earth, where creative<br />

passion is expressed as compellingly and where so many different<br />

cultures, races, languages and religions harmoniously coexist. Maybe it is<br />

this exaggerated element in their faith that grants them this Unbearable<br />

Lightness, this deeper, almost organic understanding, that bestows<br />

upon them this gracious and primeval wisdom. A very characteristic<br />

description is that of Apollonius Tyanaeus, the Greek Neopythagorean<br />

Philosopher, who visited India in the 1st century AD. He wrote “In<br />

India, I found a race of mortals living upon the Earth, but not adhering to<br />

it, inhabiting cities, but not being fixed to them, possessing everything, but<br />

possessed by nothing”.<br />

Whatever you come across in this country is exceptional and<br />

impressive. Because of that, you are obliged to take a decision right away<br />

and choose a topic. Wandering about different areas of India, I found<br />

myself tempted to photograph all that tolerance: the faces, the endless<br />

plains, and the ramshackle camps. After I got over my first impulse, I<br />

concluded that to portray the poverty of a poor country was, indeed,<br />

the easiest thing to do. Instead of that, I decided to attempt to capture<br />

with my lens, the humble breath hidden below all that wretchedness: the<br />

human dignity of the Indian people, their sweetness and their optimism.<br />

The qualities of these people are so strong that conditions of life are a<br />

secondary matter.<br />

One of the more powerful experiences of my trips was when I visited<br />

Mumbai’s Dharavi slum where millions of people live. Gregory David<br />

Roberts, in his book, Shantaram, in a gorgeous, humane description of<br />

India, describes what he felt seeing the slums of Mumbai where millions<br />

of economically-ravaged people try to make a life for themselves:<br />

“… For the first sight of the slums, clutched at my heart with talons of<br />

shame. The miserable shelters were patched together from rugs, scraps of<br />

plastic and paper, reed mats, and bamboo sticks. They slumped together,<br />

attached one to another and with narrow lanes winding between them.<br />

Nothing in the enormous sprawl of it rose much above the height of a<br />

6 7


man. My first impression was that some catastrophe had taken place,<br />

and that the slums were refugee camps for the shambling survivors. I<br />

learned, months later, that they were survivors, of course, those slumdwellers:<br />

the catastrophes that had driven them to the slums from their<br />

villages were poverty, famine and bloodshed. And five thousand new<br />

survivors arrived in the city every week, week after week, year after year.<br />

As the kilometers wound past, as the hundreds of people in those slums<br />

became thousands and tens of thousands, my spirit writhed. I felt it at<br />

all; it is a lacerating guilt, that first confrontation with the wretched of the<br />

earth. Then the smolders of shame and guilt flamed into anger, became<br />

fist-tightening rage at the unfairness of it: What kind of a government,<br />

I thought, what kind of a system allows suffering like this? But the slums<br />

went on kilometer after kilometer, relieved only by the awful contrast of<br />

the thriving businesses and crumbling, moss covered apartment buildings.<br />

A kind of wonder possessed me. I began to look beyond the immensity of<br />

the slum societies and to see the people who lived within them. A woman<br />

stopped to brush forward the black stain psalm of her hair. Another<br />

bathed her children with water from a copper dish. A man led three goats<br />

with red ribbons tied to the collars at their throats. Another man shaved<br />

himself at a cracked mirror. Children played everywhere. Men carried<br />

water in bucks. Men made repairs to one of the huts. And everywhere that<br />

I looked, people smiled and laughed. I looked at the people then, and I<br />

saw how busy they were-how much industry and energy described their<br />

lives. Occasional sudden glimpses inside the huts revealed the astonishing<br />

cleanliness of that poverty. The spotless floors and glistening metal pots in<br />

neat, tapering towels. And then, last, what should’ve been first, I saw how<br />

beautiful they were: the women wrapped in crimson, blue and gold; the<br />

women walking barefoot through the tangled shabbiness of the slum with<br />

patient, ethereal grace, the white toothed, almond eyed handsomeness of<br />

the men; and the affectionate camaraderie of the fine limbed children,<br />

older ones playing with younger ones, many of them supporting baby<br />

brothers and sisters on their slender hips. And half an hour after the bus<br />

ride began, I smiled for the first time...” ”…I love Bombay. To my eyes, the<br />

city was beautiful. It was wild and exciting. Buildings that were British<br />

Raj-romantic stood side to side with modern, mirrored business towers.<br />

I heard music from every ship and passing taxi. The colors were vibrant.<br />

The fragrances were dizzyingly delicious. And there were more smiles in<br />

the eyes on those crowded streets than in any other place I’d ever known.<br />

Above all else, Bombay is free-exhilaratingly free. I saw that liberated<br />

unconstrained spirit wherever I looked and I found myself responding to<br />

it with the whole of my heart. Even the flare of shame I’d felt when I first<br />

saw the slums and the street beggars dissolved in the understanding that<br />

they were free, those men and women. No one banished the slum-dwellers.<br />

Painful as their lives were, they were free to live them in the same gardens<br />

and avenues as the rich and powerful. The city was free. I loved it.”<br />

When friends ask me for a good reason to visit India, I give them over<br />

a billion: the people. Every visit to India offers an alternative viewpoint<br />

on the personal ambition and material priorities of the western world.<br />

This book is a tribute to the eternal spirit of India and its people, their<br />

democratic temperament, generous hospitality, disarming openness,<br />

tolerance and inclusiveness, and the amazing ways by which these<br />

differences and diversity are accommodated and celebrated.<br />

I am grateful and deeply indebted to the authors of the books I used<br />

for my research. Their deep knowledge has granted me precious input<br />

regarding the way of life, the religion and the culture of India – in fact<br />

the completion of this book would have been impossible without their<br />

contribution.<br />

ABOUT THE COUNTRY<br />

The Republic of India officially known as ‘Bharat’, is referred to in the<br />

Indian scriptures as ‘Bharatvarsha’, and its inhabitants are known as<br />

‘Bhartiya’, meaning the descendants of Bharata, the king who ruled the<br />

whole of India.<br />

The ancient civilization of India evolved in a sub-continent bounded<br />

on the north by the world’s largest mountain range – the chain of the<br />

Himalayas which separates India from the rest of Asia and the world.<br />

The basin of the Indus is divided by that of the Ganges by the desert<br />

of Rajasthan. South is the Vindhya mountain range that separates<br />

Hindustan from the peninsula of Deccan. From Kashmir in the north to<br />

Cape Comorin in the south, the sub-continent is about 2000 miles long.<br />

The north, the south, the east and the west, all are distinctively different.<br />

The barrier of the Himalayas was at no time an insuperable one and at all<br />

periods both settlers and traders have found their way over the high and<br />

desolate passes into India, while Indians have carried their commerce<br />

and culture beyond their frontiers by the same route. The “silk road”, as<br />

it is known, saw the movement of thousands of people carrying India’s<br />

products to the east. The importance of the mountains to India is that<br />

they are the source of her two great rivers, Indus and the Ganges. Water<br />

has always played a sacred role in the Indian life, and the waters of the<br />

Indus river system were to become the cradle of North India’s culture.<br />

Submersion into water symbolizes total rebirth as it means the dissolving<br />

of all forms, the cleansing from sin.<br />

Of the two river systems, that of the Indus had the earliest civilization<br />

and gave its name to India. The Indians knew this river as Sindhu<br />

(in Sanskrit it means ‘like an ocean’), and the Persians, who found<br />

difficulty in pronouncing the initial “S”, called it Hindu and the country,<br />

Hindustan. From the Persians the word passed to the Greeks who<br />

invaded northwestern India under Alexander the Great in 326 BC. They<br />

designated the inhabitants of the banks of the Indus River as Indoos,<br />

hence, the whole of India became known by the name of the river. Over<br />

the years, India has witnessed the rise and fall of many empires and<br />

invasions by people of various races and cultures. There was conquest,<br />

but one in which the foreign invaders adapted, changed and became<br />

Indian.<br />

About 1500 BC, powerful nomadic warriors known as Aryans<br />

appeared in northern India. The warriors were from Central Asia,<br />

but managed to bypass the Himalayas by finding lower passes in the<br />

mountains, such as the Khyber Pass in Pakistan. They conquered the<br />

Dravidians of Central India and imposed their social structure. Although<br />

the Aryans were a conquering people when they first spread into India,<br />

the culture of the Aryans would gradually mix with indigenous cultures,<br />

and the war-religion of the Aryans, still preserved in parts of the Rig<br />

Veda, slowly became more ritualized and more meditative. By 200 BC,<br />

this process of mixing and transforming was more or less complete and<br />

the culture we call «Indian» was fully formed. From 550-528 BC, the<br />

Persians conquered part of India. The Arab Muslims began invading as<br />

early as 712 AD. But the main Muslin invasion was from the Turks who<br />

conquered the biggest part of India, except the South where the Tamil<br />

developed their great civilization.<br />

In the 15 th Century AD the Mongols invaded India. From the 15th<br />

century the Europeans arrived: namely, The Dutch, English, French,<br />

Danish and Portuguese. The “spice route” to India was one of the most<br />

influential commercial activities in history and directly affected the<br />

course of world events. Christopher Columbus’ desire to find an Atlantic<br />

sea route to the East Indies led him to the discovery of America. The<br />

British East India Company, formed in 1600 to compete with the Dutch<br />

spice trade, resulted in the colonization of the Indian subcontinent.<br />

Politically the British ruled India for most of the 19 th century and the<br />

first half of the 20 th century, until the country’s independence in 1947.<br />

There is a strong imprint of British philosophy and culture in India.<br />

There are phases of Indian history which are bright, but there are also<br />

phases which are dull and dark. India’s subjugation by foreign imperial<br />

powers deeply marked the country. According to some historians, at the<br />

time India was conquered by western colonial powers it was one of the<br />

wealthiest nations in the world. References to India’s cultures are found<br />

in the Bible and in ancient Greek, Roman and Chinese literature. Yet,<br />

from its myriad upheavals, a vibrant, diverse and thoroughly modern<br />

nation has emerged, as enduring as it is dynamic and increasingly<br />

well-equipped to meet the challenges of the future. India is the largest<br />

democracy on earth, with one billion three hundred million people<br />

with, freedom, equality and the rule of law as fundamental principles.<br />

It has emerged as the largest middle class in the world history after<br />

two hundred years of poverty. It is still overwhelmingly rural, and its<br />

economy is predominantly agricultural, but it has become self sufficient<br />

in food and has already embarked on a new life of economical stability<br />

and development. Now India is a leading player in the world. The use<br />

of computers and cellular phones has become so common that they are<br />

even found on roadside rickshawalas. There is Bollywood challenging<br />

Hollywood. Still, there is a paradoxical contrast. On the one hand,<br />

India has advanced in nuclear power and space technology, but on<br />

the other, millions are still living in the clusters of shanty towns. But<br />

things are changing. It’s been only 60 years since the British left India.<br />

The number of millionaires in India has crossed the one million mark,<br />

while 40 Indians are included in the 2010 Forbes list as multibillionaires.<br />

Contrary to the expectations, India’s millionaires are concentrated more<br />

in the rural areas than in urban centers. The extremely wealthy and the<br />

unimaginably poor live almost side-by-side, sharing the same common<br />

landscape. The cultural co existence of these classes for a lifetime is an<br />

unexplainable miracle. In any case, Indian culture would be entirely<br />

different without the fundamental impact of Hinduism, that is not only<br />

a religion, but also a philosophy and a way of life.<br />

The Caste System: A very important part of India’s social structure,<br />

difficult for us to understand, is the ancient hierarchical caste system<br />

which arose during the Vedic period, when Hindu-influenced law, or<br />

Dharma, was created to regulate society. India has been living with this<br />

dharma for three millennia. It is this that shapes its people’s logic and<br />

behavior. Hindus believe that a person is born into one of four castes.<br />

8 9


The existence of rigid ranking is supernaturally validated through the<br />

idea of rebirth according to a person’s karma, the sum of an individual’s<br />

deeds in this life and in past lives. After death, a person’s life is judged<br />

by divine forces, and rebirth is assigned in a high or a low place. Those<br />

born as Brahmans are priests and teachers; Kshatriyas are rulers,<br />

warriors, landowners; Vaisyas are merchants and traders; and Sudras<br />

are artisans and laborers. Within the four castes, there are thousands<br />

of sub-castes, defined by profession, region, dialect, and other factors.<br />

The Untouchables were literally outcasts who were so unworthy that they<br />

were excluded from the caste system. The untouchables call themselves<br />

Dalit, meaning depressed. Until the late 1980s they were called Harijan,<br />

meaning Children of God, a title given to them by Mahatma Gandhi who<br />

wanted them accepted in the society.<br />

Historically, the caste system offered several advantages and served<br />

as an important instrument of order in a society where mutual consent<br />

rather than compulsion ruled. A well-defined system of mutual<br />

interdependence through a division of labor created security within a<br />

community. It has kept a sense of order and peace among the people.<br />

The caste system has been illegal in India for more than fifty years,<br />

outlawed by the Constitution of 1950, but it continues to shape people’s<br />

lives, although it has declined significantly. The Indian government has<br />

provided the Harijan, with specific employment privileges and granted<br />

them special representation in the Indian parliament. In general, the<br />

urban people in India are less strict about the caste system than the<br />

rural. In cities one can see people of different castes mingling with each<br />

other, while in some rural areas there is still discrimination based on<br />

one’s caste. The joint family has been the strength of Indian society. It<br />

includes everyone descended from a common ancestor living under one<br />

roof, united not only in its common home but in most aspects of life,<br />

and with the strong sense of responsibility that people show for their<br />

parents and all the members of their extended family.<br />

Numerous were the times when all these things surprised me,<br />

especially the strong attachment of the Hindus to their tradition, even<br />

when it dictated a torturous fate they must tolerate patiently. However,<br />

there were other times when I could identify those links that bind their<br />

lives with the past: a cultural universe made up of simple philosophy,<br />

myths, legends and historical facts, all blended in a way, that even the<br />

simple and illiterate people could understand and follow. Maybe it is all<br />

these powerful elements that influence their day-to-day lives and give<br />

them their dignity and grace.<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S CULTURE<br />

The Indus Valley Civilization started around 5,000 BC. By 2600 BC,<br />

early Harappan communities had been turned into large urban centers.<br />

Such urban centers include Harappa, Ganeriwala, Mohenjo-Daro and<br />

others. In total, over 1,052 cities and settlements have been found,<br />

mainly in the general region of the Indus Rivers and their tributaries.<br />

Around 1800 BCE, signs of a gradual decline began to emerge, most<br />

probably due to changes in the climate conditions, and by around 1700<br />

BCE, most of the cities were abandoned. However, this civilization did<br />

not disappear suddenly, and many elements of the Indus Civilization<br />

can be found in later cultures. Ever since then, nothing was able to<br />

halt the continuation of this cultural evolution. This is an energy that is<br />

channeled to all members of Indian society, who live according to their<br />

tradition and religious faith.<br />

The culture of India has been shaped by its long history, unique<br />

geography, and the absorption of customs, traditions and ideas from<br />

some of its neighbors as well as by preserving its ancient heritages.<br />

It is the home of well-known religious gurus and yogic preceptors.<br />

Innumerable monuments, exquisitely carved temples, stupas, mosques,<br />

churches, forts and palaces dot the country’s landscape. Its colorful<br />

religious festivals, age-old art forms in music, dance, architecture,<br />

distinct geographic attributes and the-existence of ancient and modern<br />

cultures, symbolize its creativity of centuries. It has been home to the<br />

cultural heritage of people from almost every religion and philosophy,<br />

who have lived together harmoniously for thousands of years, giving<br />

India its unique identity.<br />

The concept of Dharma underscores the identity of India. It is a<br />

complex idea with a multitude of implications. The acceptance of<br />

universal and eternal principles of righteousness governing all creation<br />

means that, all are obliged to live by these principles. Within the<br />

community, each person is expected to function according to the moral<br />

and social implications stemming from the philosophy of dharma, and<br />

this is most clearly seen in the villages.<br />

One of the fundamental teachings of Lord Krishna in the Bhagavad-<br />

Gita is the necessity of Non-attachment to material things. It is the<br />

soul rather than the ego which has to be spiritually cultivated and thus<br />

draw the individual away from the dangerous attraction to things of an<br />

ephemeral nature. The things of the world are temporary; whereas the<br />

soul, can return to God.<br />

Written records about India’s culture are vast and varied. The earliest<br />

records are known by the name of Vedas and were comprised by<br />

thousands of hymns. Veda means knowledge, all that is worthy of<br />

being known, all that distinguishes men from animals. Vedas were<br />

sung by priests in praise of gods and kings. The gods themselves were<br />

representing natural forces rain, wind, fire and thunder, very much like<br />

the Greek gods. Vedas were secret and for 2000 years were passed down<br />

orally to the Brahmin families only. The first texts were written down on<br />

palm leaf in the middle ages and later on paper.<br />

India’s culture heritage was based on experimentation. Many of the<br />

branches of knowledge that have survived today, were rooted in India<br />

and in her spiritual traditions. The intellectual achievements of Indian<br />

culture lay scattered across several fields of study in ancient Indian<br />

texts, ranging from the Vedas and the books of ‘self-knowledge’ i.e.<br />

the Upanishads, to a whole range of scriptural, Gnostic, scientific and<br />

artistic sources. India’s contribution to the world has not gone unnoticed<br />

by those who know about her ancient civilization. It’s not just about<br />

Gandhi, Tagore, Nehru and others, nor is it just about monuments to<br />

her heritage, like the mysterious Ajanta caves or the Taj Mahal. It’s about<br />

India’s very character and her treasure of tradition and knowledge that<br />

have contributed to the refined civilization that exists today.<br />

Indian culture specialized in many sciences. First place may be<br />

given to the science of language that was analyzed in such a depth<br />

that has evoked the admiration of the 20th century philologists. India’s<br />

constitution recognizes 18 languages. But there are over 1650 that are<br />

considered as mother tongues, while most of them have their own<br />

script. Hindi has been designated as India’s official national language. It<br />

is the primary tongue of fewer than one third of the people, is spoken<br />

predominantly in the north, having little similarity to the Dravidian<br />

languages of the south. The absence of a common Indian language<br />

partially accounts for the fact that English, introduced into India by the<br />

British, is still widely used.<br />

India has been among the leaders in many intellectual pursuits,<br />

particularly in the fields of medicine, cosmology and geography,<br />

astronomy, the calendar, physics and chemistry. It was Indian<br />

mathematicians and astronomers who calculated the orbit of the earth<br />

around the sun with astonishing accuracy. Special note should be taken<br />

of mathematics, developed in Gupta times to a more advanced stage<br />

than reached by any other nation in antiquity, in which India initiated<br />

the decimal system of numerical notation, early in the Christian era.<br />

These scientists had a clear concept of the abstract numbers, as distinct<br />

from the numerical quantity of objects and, with the aid of a simple<br />

numeral notation, they devised a rudimentary algebra which allowed<br />

more complicated calculations and led to the study of number for their<br />

own sake. The earliest inscription recording dates by a system of nine<br />

digits and a zero, with place notation for the tens and hundreds, comes<br />

from Gujarat and is dated 585 AD. For long it was thought that the<br />

decimal system of numerals was invented by the Arabs, which, however,<br />

is not true. The Arabs called mathematics “the Indian art” (hindisat)<br />

and it appears that the decimal notation was learnt by the Muslim world<br />

either through travelling merchants or from the Arabs who conquered<br />

Sind in 712 AD. Most of the great discoveries and inventions of which<br />

Europe is so proud would have been impossible without a developed<br />

system of mathematics. The debt of the Western world to India is huge.<br />

The achievement of the unknown man who devised the new system was<br />

the work of an analytical mind and he deserves much more honor than<br />

he has so far received.<br />

In the field of music, as early as 350 BC, India gave to the world her<br />

system of notation, with the seven cardinal notes and the diatonic scale.<br />

In philosophy, there are similarities between the teachings of western<br />

philosophers and mystics from Pythagoras to Plotinus and those of the<br />

Upanishads. The 5th century BC seekers after truth in the cities of the<br />

Ganges plain were as varied and numerous as their contemporaries in the<br />

pre-Socratic societies of Greece. We can only say that there was always<br />

some contact between the Hellenic world and India, mediated first by<br />

the Achemenid Empire, then by that of the Seleucids, and finally, under<br />

the Romans, by the Indian ocean traders. In philology, the Sanskrit<br />

language is now universally acknowledged to be the foundation of all<br />

European languages. In literature, its epics, poems and dramas rank as<br />

high as those of any language. Nalanda, the first university in the world<br />

was founded in India in the 5th century BC, with over 10,000 students<br />

and 2,000 teachers. Nalanda was an extraordinary centre of learning<br />

for seven centuries. In manufacture, India was the first to make cotton<br />

and purple [dye], and it was proficient in all works of jewelry. India has<br />

also given many practical blessings to the world at large; notably, rice,<br />

cotton, the sugar cane, many spices, domestic fowl, the game of chess<br />

as well as playing cards and dice. Greater than any of these influences,<br />

10 11


however, has been the influence of ancient religious literature through<br />

philosophy. The sages who meditated in the jungles of the Ganges valley,<br />

six hundred years or more before Christ, are still forces in the world.<br />

This greatness of India’s culture is clearly reflected in the lives of two of<br />

the most important figures of worldwide meditation, Mohandas Gandhi<br />

and Rabindranath Tagore.<br />

Gandhi, the Father of the Nation, the architect of Indian’s freedom<br />

after 200 years of British rule, was the central figure of the Indian civil<br />

rights movement and the pioneer of resistance to tyranny, through<br />

mass civil disobedience, which led India to independence. R.Tagore<br />

named him “Mahatma”, meaning “great soul”. “In a gentle way, you<br />

can shake the world” he used to say, summarizing, with just a phrase,<br />

a religious practice and a political ideology. His teachings inspired the<br />

worldwide movement of peace, and, together with his ascetic life, made<br />

him an international symbol and landmark of the philosophical and<br />

sociopolitical meditation of the 20 th century. He was one of the greatest<br />

souls of all times, who lived a life dedicated to the cause of advancing<br />

justice and showing tolerance to all. He became the symbol of the dignity<br />

of all human beings. The world still needs his philosophy.<br />

He was born on October 2, 1869, at Porbandar, in Gujarat. After<br />

university, he went to London to train as a barrister. He returned to<br />

India in 1891 and in 1893 accepted a job at an Indian law firm in<br />

Durban, South Africa. Gandhi was appalled by the treatment of Indian<br />

immigrants there, and joined the struggle to obtain basic rights for them.<br />

During his 20 years in South Africa he was sent to prison many times.<br />

Influenced primarily by Hinduism, but also by elements of Jainism and<br />

Christianity and the writings of Tolstoy and Thoreau, Gandhi developed<br />

the satyagraha (‘devotion to truth’), a new non-violent way to redress<br />

the wrongs and injustice.<br />

In 1914, the South African government conceded many of Gandhi’s<br />

demands. Returning to India, he was a dominant figure in politics.<br />

He transformed the Indian National Congress, and his program of<br />

peaceful non-cooperation with the British included boycotts of British<br />

goods and institutions, leading to the arrests of thousands. In 1922,<br />

Gandhi himself was sentenced to six years’ imprisonment. He was<br />

released after two years and withdrew from politics, devoting himself to<br />

trying to improve Hindu-Muslim relations. He was replaced as leader by<br />

Jawaharlal Nehru.<br />

In 1945, the British government began negotiations which culminated<br />

in the Mountbatten Plan of June 1947, and the formation of the two new<br />

independent states of India and Pakistan, divided along religious lines.<br />

Massive inter-communal violence marred the months before and after<br />

independence. Gandhi was opposed to partition. On January 30, 1948,<br />

he was assassinated in Delhi by a Hindu fanatic, less than one year after<br />

India’s independence. “Just an old man in a loincloth in distant India: Yet<br />

when he died, humanity wept”. This was the observation of a newspaper<br />

correspondent at the death of Mahatma Gandhi.<br />

Rabindranath Tagore (1861-1941) was an offspring of a noble family,<br />

born in 1861 in Calcutta. He was among many things a musician and<br />

a painter, but it was his poetry that gave him in 1913 the Nobel Prize<br />

in Literature being the first Asian to be awarded with Nobel “because<br />

of his profoundly sensitive, fresh and beautiful verse, by which, with<br />

consummate skill, he has made his poetic thought, expressed in his own<br />

English words, a part of the literature of the West”.Even though he never<br />

got involved actively in politics, he tried though his life as well as his<br />

work, to contribute rather in our inner improvement and to bridge the<br />

gap between the East and the West. Gandhi was his devoted friend.<br />

Tagore was knighted by the ruling British Government in 1915, but<br />

within a few years he resigned the honor as a protest against British<br />

policies in India. For the world, he became the voice of India’s spiritual<br />

heritage.<br />

THE RELIGION<br />

India gave birth to four of the world’s religions: Hinduism, Jainism,<br />

Buddhism and Sikhism.<br />

Hinduism, the world’s oldest continually existing religion, is a<br />

conglomeration of religious, philosophical, and cultural ideas and<br />

practices and originated in India. It evolved from the Vedic religion<br />

of ancient India. The earliest scriptures of Hinduism are the Vedas,<br />

which were brought to India by the Aryan invaders after 1200 BC.<br />

The philosophical Vedic texts, called the Upanishads, explored the<br />

search for knowledge that would allow mankind to escape the cycle<br />

of reincarnation. Fundamental to Hinduism is the belief in a cosmic<br />

principle of ultimate reality called Brahman, and its identity with the<br />

individual soul, or Atman. All creatures go through a cycle of rebirth,<br />

or samsara, which can be broken only by spiritual self-realization,<br />

after which liberation, or moksha, is attained. The principle of karma<br />

determines a being’s status within the cycle of rebirth. The gods and<br />

goddesses of Hinduism amount to thousands or even millions, all<br />

representing the many aspects of Brahman. The most fundamental of<br />

Hindu deities is the Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva - Creator,<br />

Preserver and Destroyer respectively. Hindus also worship spirits, trees,<br />

animals and even planets. The basic scriptures of Hinduism were passed<br />

on from generation to generation orally for centuries before they were<br />

written down, mostly in the Sanskrit language. The major and most<br />

popular Hindu texts include the Bhagavad Gita, the Upanishads, and<br />

the epics of Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Puranas. Especially<br />

Mahabharata, just as Homer’s Iliad, became their national epic.<br />

Unlike other religions, Hinduism is a way of life, a Dharma, that is,<br />

the law that governs all action. It prescribes truth, honesty, non-violence,<br />

cleanliness, contentment, prayers, austerity, perseverance, penance, and<br />

pious company. It has its own traditions, advanced system of ethics,<br />

meaningful rituals, philosophy and theology. The religious tradition<br />

of Hinduism is responsible for the creation of such original concepts<br />

and practices as Yoga, Ayurveda, Karma, etc. Vedic civilization was<br />

developed in the broad and open spaces of the primeval forests of the<br />

valleys of Ganges and Indus. It did not represent an urban view of life<br />

which seeks to protect itself by high walls.<br />

Vedic thinkers were followed by Buddhist thought. Buddha, the<br />

Prince, the Thinker and the Revolutionary, started a new age in the<br />

history of humanity. Buddha developed human values which advanced<br />

mankind beyond anything that had been achieved until then. Buddhism<br />

gave art and sculpture, mythology and philosophy to the whole of Asia.<br />

Buddhist thought was accompanied by other movements in India.<br />

Jainism was the discipline of infinite austerity and purity of action. It<br />

flourished side by side with Buddhism in India. Sikhism, the 5 th largest<br />

religion in the world, emerged in the 16th century, influenced by reform<br />

movements in Hinduism, as well as by Sufi Muslim influences. Sikhism<br />

preaches a message of devotion and remembrance of God at all times,<br />

truthful living, the equality of mankind and denounces superstitions<br />

and blind rituals.<br />

Today Hinduism, 80% of the people in India, and Buddhism are the<br />

world’s third and fourth largest religions respectively, with around 1.4<br />

billion followers altogether. Other major religions, such as Islam and<br />

Christianity, also flourish in this country, Islam being the second religion<br />

in India, with 140 million people. The followers of these religions have<br />

full freedom to teach and practice according to their own traditions. A<br />

huge nation, India serves as an example of religious tolerance, mutual<br />

respect and understanding among the followers of different faiths.<br />

Different religious traditions and cultures spread from India and brought<br />

light to the people of many countries around the world. The idea of nonviolence<br />

and compassion run very deep in Indian thought. It was an idea<br />

so powerful that it would transform half the world and be spread not by<br />

war and violence, but by respect, mutual understanding and the thirst<br />

for knowledge.<br />

The role of religious faith is so crucial in shaping Indian culture that<br />

away from its imposed “shackles” Indian culture, in fact, looses all its<br />

essence. Religion is also a way of life, a means of social organization<br />

that ensures tolerance and harmony, and a factor contributing to the<br />

continuity of Indian culture. It is no coincidence that I often felt I was<br />

traveling not only in the place but in time as well. Habits, customs,<br />

festivities, religious ceremonies unchanged over thousands of years,<br />

carried my soul away into the past.<br />

Jawaharlal Nehru, Gandhi’s friend and the first Prime Minister of<br />

India after Independence, describes in a unique way this feeling, in his<br />

monumental book The Discovery of India:<br />

“I stood on a mound of Mohenjo Daro in the Indus Valley in the NW<br />

of India and all around me lay the houses and streets of this ancient<br />

city, that is said to have existed over five thousands years ago, and even<br />

then it was an old and well-developed civilization. This civilization had<br />

a continuity of five or six thousand years or more, and not in a static,<br />

unchanging sense, for India was changing and progressing all the time.<br />

She was coming into intimate contact with the Persians, the Egyptians,<br />

the Greeks, the Chinese, the Arabs, the Central Asians and the people of<br />

the Mediterranean. But though she influenced them and was influenced<br />

by them, her cultural basis was strong enough to endure. What was the<br />

secret of this strength? Where did it come from?”<br />

Very interesting is the thought of Nehru for the similarities between<br />

Ancient Greece and ancient India, despite the big differences of their<br />

civilizations:<br />

“Ancient India, like ancient Greece, was a collection of small states.<br />

Ancient India and Greece, although different in many ways, have so<br />

12 13


much in common that I am led to believe that their background of life<br />

was very similar. Every country and people has had individuality, a<br />

message, and has attempted to solve life’s problems each in its own way.<br />

Greece is something definite, superb in its own way; so is India. Ancient<br />

India and ancient Greece were different from each other and yet they were<br />

akin, in spite of great difference. They all have the same blood, tolerant,<br />

outlook, joy of life and belief in the surprising beauty and infinite variety<br />

of nature, love and art, and the wisdom that comes from the accumulated<br />

experience of an old race. Each of them developed in accordance with its<br />

racial genius, influenced by its natural environment, and emphasized<br />

some aspects of life more than others. This emphasis varied. The Greeks,<br />

as a race, may have lived more in the present and found joy and harmony<br />

in the beauty they saw around them, or which they themselves have<br />

created. The Indians found this joy and harmony also in the present, but,<br />

at the same time, their eyes were turned towards deeper knowledge and<br />

their minds trafficked with strange questions. History has shown that<br />

India had stronger foundations and greater staying power; they have<br />

thus far survived, though they have been badly shaken and have greatly<br />

deteriorated, and the future is obscure. Old Greece, for its brilliance,<br />

had a short life; it did not survive except in its splendid achievements,<br />

its influence on succeeding cultures, and the memory of that short bright<br />

day of abundant life. Perhaps because it was too much engrossed in the<br />

present, it became the past. India is far nearer in spirit and outlook to<br />

the old Greece than the nations in Europe are today, although they call<br />

themselves children of the Hellenic spirit. Life was accepted as it was and<br />

lived fully both in Greece and India; nevertheless, there was a belief, in the<br />

supremacy of some kind of inner life. This led to curiosity and speculation,<br />

but the spirit of inquiry was not so much directed towards objective<br />

experience as to logical reasoning fixed on certain concepts which were<br />

accepted as obviously true.”<br />

And later on he continues: “… How amazing is this spirit of man! In<br />

spite of innumerable failings, man, throughout the ages, has sacrificed<br />

his life and all he held dear for an ideal, for truth, for faith, for country<br />

and honor. That ideal may change, but that capacity for self-sacrifice<br />

continues, and, because of that, much may be forgiven to man, and it is<br />

impossible to lose hope for him. In the midst of disaster, he has not lost<br />

his dignity or his faith in the values he cherished. Whatever Gods there<br />

be, there is something Godlike in man, as there is also something of the<br />

devil in him. The burden of the past, the burden of both good and ill, is<br />

overpowering and sometimes suffocating, more especially for those of us<br />

who belong to very ancient civilizations like those of India, China and<br />

Greece. As Nietzsche says, ”not only the wisdom of centuries – also their<br />

madness breaketh out in us. Dangerous it is to be an heir”. What is my<br />

inheritance? To what am I an heir? To all that humanity has achieved<br />

during tens of thousands of years, to all that it has thought and felt and<br />

suffered and taken pleasure in, to its cries of triumph and its bitter agony<br />

of defeat, to that astonishing adventure of man which began so long ago<br />

and yet continues and beckons to us. To all this, and more, in common<br />

with all men. But there is a special heritage for those of us of India, not an<br />

exclusive one, for none is exclusive and all are common to the race of man,<br />

one more especially applicable to us, something that is in our flesh and<br />

blood and bones, that has gone to make us what we are and what we are<br />

likely to be. It is the thought of this particular heritage and its application<br />

to the present that has long filled my mind. What could we not do with<br />

these people under better conditions and with great opportunities opening<br />

out to them?”<br />

THE GREEKS IN <strong>INDIA</strong><br />

The first Europeans to arrive in ancient India, even before Alexander,<br />

were the Greeks, who are referred to in the ancient Indian history as<br />

“Yavanas”, in Sanskrit language, and “Yonas” in Pali language. Both<br />

names were based on the Greek state of “Ionia”. Many Greeks arrived in<br />

India for scientific research, especially in astronomy and mathematics.<br />

According to the Greek historian Herodotus one Greek, Scylax, who<br />

lived in the 6th century BC, travelled from the Indus, around Arabia, to<br />

Egypt.<br />

In 327 BC, Alexander the Great, after defeating the Persian King<br />

Darius, entered into India through Kyber Pass. His desire was to conquer<br />

the entire world within the boundaries of the river Ocean (the Greeks<br />

believed that a great river, called Ocean, encircled all the land of the<br />

world). He had conquered Bactria at the foot of the western Himalayas,<br />

gained a huge Bactrian army, and married a Bactrian princess, Roxane.<br />

Porus, the King of Punjab, challenged Alexander at the Battle of the<br />

Hydaspes River, but was defeated. Alexander was so impressed by the<br />

courage and the charisma of his enemy that treated the brave man in<br />

a knightly manner and made him his new ally. Then he moved east<br />

through Punjab and stopped outside Amritsar. He was eager to reach<br />

the river Ganges and conquer the people there. But his men had grown<br />

weary of the hardships of the way, and they didn’t want go further, so<br />

Alexander turned back. As Alexander marched through India he fought<br />

battles, built altars, and founded cities. One city he called Boukephala<br />

in honor of his favorite horse, which died and was buried there. Other<br />

cities he called Alexandria in honor of his own name and Nicaea (victory<br />

town). During this trip, Alexander sought out the Indian philosophers,<br />

the Brahmins, who were famous for their wisdom, and debated with<br />

them with philosophical issues. The works of Greek philosophers, and<br />

Plato in particular, were quite popular with Brahman philosophers. The<br />

Brahmans were reading these works either translated, or in the original,<br />

as many Hindus had learned to read and write Greek. The Hindu<br />

people were culturally advanced by the time they met the Greeks and<br />

their culture was very much centered around humanistic ideals, as was<br />

the Greek culture. The mixture of Greek and eastern influences that is<br />

now called ‘Hellenism’ was to remain a cultural force in the region for<br />

centuries to come. Alexander became legendary in India for being both<br />

a wise philosopher and a fearless conqueror; for ages the deeds of the<br />

great «Sikander», as they called him, lived in the memory of the Indians,<br />

and even today many male children are named Sikander, after him, and<br />

communities in Kashmir that claim to be of Greek origin.<br />

The Greeks did not take the same route to return to their land. They<br />

came down the rivers Jhelum and Indus, reached the Ocean and half<br />

of them sailed back, while the other half together with Alexander<br />

crossed the desert and went to Persia. One of his captains, Nearchos,<br />

who commanded the fleet, was the first to realize the importance of the<br />

monsoon winds for sailing in this region of the world. Returning from<br />

India to the Persian city of Susa, Alexander had with him his Indian yogi<br />

teacher and advisor, named Kalyana who, being old, wanted to die in<br />

an appropriate manner. A big funeral pyre was erected, and he burned<br />

himself alive, which was the Indian way to complete one’s spiritual<br />

journey. The Greeks were amazed to see that he had no fear for pain<br />

or death. He embraced many of his friends before, but not Alexander,<br />

to whom he simply said: “Alexander, we shall meet again in Babylon”.<br />

Nobody understood why he said this, but the words proved true when<br />

Alexander died in Babylon a year later.<br />

It’s rare in history that human events become so focused on a single<br />

individual; rarely is that focus justified, Alexander however, is one of<br />

the notable exceptions. The age of Alexander was the age created by<br />

Alexander, and he would permanently stamp world culture with a Greek<br />

character. He was most brilliant military leader in human history. With<br />

a small army, little or no supplies, he conquered the greatest, wealthiest,<br />

and most powerful empire in the world. He never lost a battle, not once,<br />

and he flung himself into battle with intense bravery.<br />

Alexander’s empire was split apart after his death and divided among<br />

his generals. One of them, Seleucus, became the ruler of the Asian<br />

part and introduced the Seleucids dynasty. The establishment of Indo-<br />

Greek Kingdoms covered various parts of the northwest and northern<br />

Indian subcontinent during the last three centuries BC and was ruled<br />

by more than thirty Hellenistic Kings. The mixture of Greek and eastern<br />

influences that is now called ‘Hellenism’ was to remain a cultural force<br />

in the region for centuries to come.<br />

The most famous Indo-Greek king was Menander, who reigned from<br />

160-135 BC. He apparently converted to Buddhism and is presented<br />

in the Mahayana tradition as one of the great benefactors of the faith.<br />

Menander’s coins bear the mention «Savior King» in Greek, and «Great<br />

King of the Dharma» in Kharoshthi script. Upon his death, the honor<br />

of sharing his remains was claimed by the cities under his rule, and they<br />

were enshrined in stupas (Plutarch).<br />

During the Roman Period the Greeks from Egypt were responsible<br />

for the sea route, Alexandria in Egypt being the center of geography<br />

and science. Around the mid 1st century BC, Hippalus, an important<br />

Greek explorer from in Egypt, discovered a new route to India: Instead<br />

of following the Arabian coast, as had been usual up to then, he went<br />

from the Red Sea to India over open sea. This route was shorter and<br />

had less risk of Arabian pirates, but it’s real importance was that in this<br />

way, the monsoons could be used to make the crossing a lot faster than<br />

before. Others followed his example, and soon it became the major sea<br />

route. The geographic knowledge of this time was written down by the<br />

first century Alexandrian astronomer and geographer Ptolemy. The use<br />

of Hippalus’ direct route greatly contributed to the prosperity of trade<br />

contacts between the Roman province of Egypt and India from the<br />

1stcentury onwards.<br />

THE PERIPLUS OF THE ERYTHRAEAN SEA<br />

Periplus, literally “a sailing-around” in Greek”, was a manuscript<br />

document that listed in order the ports and coastal landmarks, with<br />

distances between, that the captain of a vessel could expect to find<br />

along a shore. “The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea” is a Greek periplus,<br />

describing navigation and trading opportunities from Roman Egyptian<br />

ports along the coast of the Red Sea, and others along Northeast Africa<br />

and India. The author was an unknown Greek living in Egypt. Periplus<br />

was unique in providing accurate insights into what the ancient world<br />

14 15


knew about the lands around the Indian Ocean. Although Erythraean<br />

Sea literally means «Red Sea», to the Greeks it included the Indian Ocean<br />

and the Persian Gulf. From Red Sea large ships crossed the Indian Ocean<br />

to the Tamil kingdoms in present day Kerala and Tamil Nadu. It also has<br />

detailed information about the Pandyan Kingdoms of South India and<br />

the intense trade with the Indian town of Muziris. The description of the<br />

Indian coast mentions the Ganges River clearly. The Periplus describes<br />

in detail how Hippalus first discovered the direct route from the Red Sea<br />

to southern India, as well as the trade goods from India, the Indo-Greek<br />

towns and monuments, the coins of King Menander and numerous<br />

Greek buildings and fortifications.<br />

THE MOST IMPORTANT <strong>INDIA</strong>N RULERS<br />

Chandragupta (340 BC- 298 BC), the founder of the Maurya Empire<br />

and one of the greatest leaders and organizers in Indian history, had met<br />

Alexander and was inspired by his power charisma and glamour. He<br />

expelled the remaining Greeks and in 302 BC became the ruler of the first<br />

Indian Empire conquering most of the Indian subcontinent. He married<br />

Seleucus’s daughter, a Greek princess, which was a gift from Seleucus to<br />

formalize an alliance. In addition to this treaty, Seleucus dispatched an<br />

ambassador, Megasthenes, to Chandragupta’s court, who stayed there<br />

for 7 years and wrote a detailed description of India. Chandragupta II<br />

was the greatest of the Gupta kings; called Vikramaditya «The Sun of<br />

Power», he presided over the greatest cultural age in India.<br />

In 268 BC, Chandragupta’s grandson, Ashoka came to power. He was<br />

one of India’s greatest emperors and reigned from 273 to 232 BC, most<br />

of present-day India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and Bangladesh. Ashoka<br />

was a devotee of Ahimsa (non violence), love, truth and tolerance. He<br />

established an empire on the foundation of righteousness, a reign which<br />

makes the moral and spiritual welfare of his subjects its primary concern.<br />

After adopting Buddhism, Asoka started propagating its principles<br />

throughout the world, even as far as ancient Rome and Egypt. In fact,<br />

he can be credited with making the first serious attempt to develop a<br />

Buddhist policy, is considered just after Gautama Buddha. The stunning<br />

ability of Indian culture to tolerate competing religions throughout its<br />

history begins with Asoka. An emblem excavated from his empire is<br />

today the national Emblem of India. The British historian H.G. Wells has<br />

written: «Amidst the tens of thousands of names of monarchs that crowd<br />

the columns of history ... the name of Ashoka shines, and shines almost<br />

alone, a star.»<br />

The Gupta Empire existed approximately from 320 to 550 AD and<br />

covered much of India. Founded by Maharaja Sri-Gupta, the dynasty<br />

was the model of a classical civilization. The peace and prosperity<br />

created under the leadership of Guptas enabled the pursuit of scientific<br />

and artistic endeavors. This period is called the Golden Age of India<br />

and was marked by extensive achievements in science, technology,<br />

engineering, art, literature, mathematics, astronomy, religion and<br />

philosophy that crystallized the elements of what is generally known<br />

as Hindu culture. Chandragupta, Samudragupta, and Chandragupta<br />

II, were the most notable rulers of the Gupta dynasty. The high points<br />

of this cultural creativity are magnificent architectures, sculptures and<br />

paintings. Strong trade ties also made the region an important cultural<br />

center and a base that would influence nearby kingdoms in Burma, Sri<br />

Lanka, Malay Archipelago and Indochina. The earliest available Puranas<br />

are also thought to have been written around this period. The empire<br />

came to an end with the attack of the Huns from Central Asia in the 6 th<br />

century AD.<br />

THE MOST IMPORTANT MUSLIM EMPEROR<br />

Akbar (1556 to 1605 AD) was the greatest ruler of Indian history<br />

according to Muslim, Indian and Western historians. When his father,<br />

Humayun, died in 1556, Akbar became “ruler of the empire» at the<br />

age of thirteen. Under the guidance of Bairam Khan, Akbar instantly<br />

began seizing more territory throughout Hindustan. By the time he died<br />

in 1605, his Empire included almost all of northern India. In order to<br />

govern this territory, Akbar developed a bureaucracy that was among the<br />

most efficient in the world and a system of autonomy for the imperial<br />

provinces. From a religious standpoint, Akbar’s state was built on the<br />

principle of «universal tolerance».<br />

The central theorist of Akbar’s reign was Abu’l Faz’l, who is considered<br />

one of the greatest political theorists in Islamic history. He was deeply<br />

influenced by Platonic philosophy, as it had been handed down by<br />

Muslim philosophers. In particular, he argued for Plato’s concept of the<br />

«philosopher-king,» who, by virtue of his talent, wisdom, and learning,<br />

deserved to be obeyed by all others. He saw Akbar as the embodiment of<br />

the perfect philosopher-king. Akbar sponsored a series of debates at his<br />

court between representatives of the various religions, which included<br />

Christianity, Hindus, Zoroastrians, and Jains. His wife, Jodhabai, a<br />

Hindu Rajput princess, became the Mughal Empress and she gave birth<br />

to his successor, Jahangir.<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S GIFT TO THE WORLD<br />

“... Our only fault is that we cannot: fight to conquer; but we trust<br />

in the eternity of truth. India’s message to the world is first of all, her<br />

blessing; she is returning good for the evil which is done her, and thus<br />

she puts into execution this noble idea, which had its origin in India.<br />

Lastly, India’s message is that calm goodness, patience and gentleness<br />

will ultimately triumph. Thanks to the morality of her children, the<br />

kinder race will never perish, and she will yet see the hour of her<br />

triumph.» Brooklyn Standard Union, USA, February 27, 1895, lecture<br />

by the Hindu monk, Swami Vivekananda<br />

India gave to the world many gifts. Buddhism and the theory of Non<br />

Violence are best known, but also the essence and message of “Mystic<br />

India”, that there can be Unity in Diversity, that we are a single human<br />

family, capable of living together and loving one another.<br />

Buddhism: the religion that preaches peace, tolerance and nonviolence,<br />

one of the world’s great religions that originated in India. The<br />

whole of the Far East is in India’s debt for Buddhism, which helped to<br />

mould the distinctive civilizations of China, Korea, Japan and Tibet. As<br />

Mr. Hu Shih, former Ambassador of China to the USA, stated: «India<br />

conquered and dominated China culturally for 20 centuries without ever<br />

having to send a single soldier across her border.»<br />

Non Violence: as expressed by The Dalai Lama: “The theory and<br />

practice of Ahimsa, or non-violence, originated in India. Many Indian<br />

leaders of the past worked hard to ameliorate the plight of their people<br />

–on both a local and national level-through the great path of non violence.<br />

The legacy of those great leaders is alive even today. Nowadays, we see<br />

growing interest in non-violence in many parts of the world. And, indeed,<br />

non-violence is India’s gift to the world.”<br />

The influence of Mahatma Gandhi has been felt all over the world,<br />

through the many friends of India in the West who were impressed by his<br />

burning sincerity and energy, and by the ultimate success of his policy of<br />

non-violence in achieving India’s independence. His lesson of leadership<br />

is the greatest lesson the world can learn. His message of non-violence<br />

continues to inspire people and political movements across the globe,<br />

creating change through non violent resistance.«…His life is a legend.<br />

And it is this legend that is Gandhi’s great contribution to today’s<br />

people. Modern people, who see everything around them in ruins, will<br />

once more come close to a utopia, one that they have been convinced<br />

to ignore and mistreat. They will have their trust in the strength of the<br />

human spirit renewed, a strength they have long stopped considering<br />

important. That is where the great Hindu leads us. With the simplest<br />

and most convincing of ways he tells us that which we call a victory<br />

of his people is the most unlikely of triumphs, it is the triumph of the<br />

strength we stopped believing in, it is the triumph of the utopia.» Petros<br />

Haris, Nea Estia magazine, December 1969.<br />

BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

Dimitra Stasinopoulou<br />

Athens, March 2010<br />

THE DISCOVERY OF <strong>INDIA</strong>- Jawaharlal Nehru -Penguin Books – Modern Classics (first published in 1946)<br />

The WONDER THAT WAS <strong>INDIA</strong>, A.L. Basham , first published 1954 by Pan Macmillan and 2004 from Picador<br />

WORLD CIVILIZATIONS, 1996, Richard Hooker, Washington state University<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> UNVEILED - Robert Arnet – Atman Press<br />

GANDHI’S SAYINGS, BBC, HISTORY<br />

Top 10 Quotations of Gandhi, by Subhamoy Das<br />

Quotations of RABINDRANATH TAGORE Compilation by Alana Smolowe<br />

SΗANTARAM, by Gregory David Roberts, St Martin’s Press<br />

THE STORY OF <strong>INDIA</strong>, Michael Wood, BBC BOOKS<br />

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT, Michael Wood, BBC BOOKS<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> EXPOSED, Text and photographs by Clive Limpkin Abbeville press Publishers NY&Ldn<br />

GEMS FROM THE HEART – Tibetan Women’s Association, Dharamsala India Sept 2005<br />

WITHIN THE FRAME THE JOURNEY OF A PHOTOGRAPHIC VISION -David Duchemin, NEW RIDERS,, CALIFORNIA<br />

6 BILLION OTHERS, Yann Arthur Bertrand ABRAMS BOOKS NY<br />

TO <strong>INDIA</strong> WITH LOVE FROM N.Y. TO MUMBAI, Waris Ahluwalia,T.Bhojwani, M.Singer, Assouline Press 2009<br />

MOTHER <strong>INDIA</strong> Chris Drakos & Myrsini Aristidou, ATHENS VOICE BOOKS<br />

KITE’S EYE VIEW <strong>INDIA</strong>, ROLLI BOOKS<br />

FACES OF <strong>INDIA</strong>, Peter Spira by STAGGY INTl<br />

RIVER OF COLOR THE <strong>INDIA</strong> OF RAGHUBIR SINGH - PHADON BOOKS<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S CULTURE, Asia Transpacific Journeys<br />

WORLD CIVILIZATIONS, Richard Hooker, 1996, Washington State University<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S GIFT TO THE WORLD Brooklyn Standard Union, February 27, 1895-Swami Vivekananda, the Hindu monk<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S GIFT, <strong>INDIA</strong>N WEEKENDER NEWSPAPER- December 03, 2009-Ram Lingam-India’s gift<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>’S SPIRITUAL GIFT TO THE WORLD, Hindustan Times, May 11, 2006 Buddhism: Sujoy Dhar<br />

BUDDHISM, The Pioneer- Nov.10, 2002 , Omer Farooq/Hyderabad<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> IN WORLD AND IMAGE PHOTOGRAPS, ERIC MEOLA (Wellcome Books)<br />

WIKIPEDIA, the free encyclopedia<br />

THE DALAI LAMA’S BOOK OF WISDOM, By Dalai Lama, Thorsons –Directions for life<br />

THE ART OF HAPPINESS,10TH Ann.Edition, by Dalai Lama and C.Cutler, Riverhead books,publis.by Penguin<br />

LIVE IN A BETTER WAY, Reflections on true love and Happiness, Dalai Lama, Penguin Compass<br />

AN OPEN HEART, Practicing compassion in everyday life, Dalai Lama and Nicholas Vreeland<br />

THE WHITE TIGER, Aravind Adiga, Free Press<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong>, Lonely Planet Guide<br />

MODERN <strong>INDIA</strong>: The origins of an Asian democracy, Judith Brown, Oxford University Press<br />

A NEW HISTORY OF <strong>INDIA</strong>, Stanley Wolpert, Oxford University Press<br />

TIBETAN PORTRAIT, The power of Compassion - Photographs by Phil Borges, Text by the Dalai Lama , Rizzoli<br />

International Publications Inc, 1996 – USA<br />

GHANDI AND TODAY’S WORLD, Petros Haris, NEA ESTIA, Published by ESTIA, Athens, Christmas 1969,Volume 86<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> THE MOTHER OF NATIONS, Nina Tsekou, 1992, Stefanos Vasilopoulos Publisher<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> OF THE GREEKS, Marios Varetas Publication<br />

MAHATMA GANDHI 1869-1969, NEA ESTIA, Published by ESTIA, Athens, Christmas 1969,Volume 86<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> OF THE GREEKS, Marios Varetas Publication, Athens<br />

<strong>INDIA</strong> TOURIST ORGANIZATION<br />

16 17


GHANDI’S QUOTATIONS<br />

TAGORE’S QUOTATIONS<br />

“Poverty is the worst form of violence.”<br />

“An eye for eye only ends up making the whole world blind.”<br />

“Gross utility kills beauty. We now have all over the world huge production of things, huge organizations, and<br />

huge administrations of empire - all obstructing the path of life. Civilization is waiting for a great consummation,<br />

for an expression of its soul in beauty. This must be your contribution to the world.”<br />

Mohandas<br />

Karamchand Gandhi<br />

b. 2 October 1869<br />

d. 30 January 1948<br />

“I object to violence because when it appears to do good, the good is only temporary; the evil it does is permanent.<br />

Non-violence is the greatest force at the disposal of mankind. It is mightier than the mightiest weapon of destruction<br />

devised by the ingenuity of man. Non-violence requires a double faith, faith in God and also faith in man.”<br />

“All the religions of the world, while they may differ in other respects,<br />

unitedly proclaim that nothing lives in this world but Truth.”<br />

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.”<br />

“The tendency in modern civilization is to make the world uniform...<br />

Let the mind be universal. The individual should not be sacrificed.”<br />

“I slept and dreamt that life was joy. I awoke and saw that life was service.<br />

I acted and behold and service was joy.”<br />

“Happiness is not in getting anything but in giving himself up to what is greater than himself,<br />

to ideas which are larger than his individual life, the idea of his country, of humanity, of God.”<br />

Rabindranath Tagore<br />

b. 7 May 1861<br />

d. 7 August 1941<br />

“I have nothing new to teach the world. Truth and Non-violence are as old as the hills. All I have done is to try<br />

experiments in both on as vast a scale as I could. My religion is based on truth and non-violence. Truth is my God.<br />

Non-violence is the means of realizing Him. Non-violence and truth are inseparable and presuppose one another.”<br />

“The most important lesson that man can learn from his life is not that there is pain in this world,<br />

but that it depends upon him to turn it into good account, that is possible for him to transmute it into joy.”<br />

“We come nearest to the great when we are great in humility”.”<br />

“You must not lose faith in humanity. Humanity is an ocean;<br />

if a few drops of theocean are dirty, the ocean does not become dirty.”<br />

“There are seven sins in the world: Wealth without work, Pleasure without conscience, Knowledge without character,<br />

Commerce without morality, Science without humanity, Worship without sacrifice and politics without principle.”<br />

“When I despair, I remember that all through history the ways of truth and love have always won. There have been tyrants,<br />

and murderers, and for a time they can seem invincible, but in the end they always fall. Think of it--always.”<br />

“This is the ultimate end of man, to find the One which is in him,<br />

which is his truth, which is his soul;<br />

the key with which he opens the gate of the spiritual life, the heavenly kingdom”.<br />

“Love’s gift cannot be given, it waits to be accepted.<br />

Love gives beauty to everything that touches”<br />

“The butterfly counts not months but moments, and has time enough”<br />

“We must become the change we want to see.”<br />

“Life, like a child, laughs, shaking its rattle of death as it runs”<br />

“What difference does it make to the dead, the orphans and the homeless, whether the mad destruction<br />

is wrought under the name of totalitarianism or the holy name of liberty or democracy?”<br />

“This world is inhabited by all kinds of people. They are isolated by land and water, religion, customs, habits.<br />

The minds and hearts of these people are much alike. Under sudden or stressed emotions, they blossom forth or<br />

explode in riots, fights, dance, song, prayer. At such times, they become one mind, one heart. And the world vibrates<br />

with the intensity of their feelings, emotions, angers, laughters. I do not want my house to be walled in on all sides<br />

and my windows to be stuffed. I want the cultures of all the lands to be blown about my house as freely as possible.<br />

But I refuse to be blown off my feet by any.”<br />

“Love does not claim possession, but gives freedom. Not greed and utility;<br />

they produce offices, but not dwelling houses. To be able to love material things, to clothe them with tender grace,<br />

and yet not be attached to them, this is a great service. Providence expects that we should make this world our own,<br />

and not live in it as though it were a rented tenement. We can only make it our own through some service,<br />

and that service is to lend it love and beauty from our soul.”<br />

“Love is the only reality and it is not a mere sentiment.<br />

It is the ultimate truth that lies at the heart of creation.”


THE HIMALAYAS Jammu & Kashmir • Ladakh<br />

LADAKH<br />

distance of 45 km south of Leh. On the way to Hemis, hundreds<br />

Gompa in the 1655, in memory of his father. The Shakyamuni<br />

Potala, in Lhasa. The palace was built in the 17th century and<br />

The Himalayas<br />

Ladakh Valley<br />

Thiksey Monastery<br />

Hemis School Monastery<br />

Lamayaru Monastery<br />

‘The land of high passes’, ‘the land of lamas’, ‘the moon land’,<br />

‘the jewel of the Himalayas’, is the crown of India and forms the<br />

northern province of Jammu and Kashmir. The Trans-Himalayan<br />

zone borders the peaks of the Western Himalaya and the vast<br />

Tibetan Plateau, is also known as ‘Little Tibet”, and ‘the last<br />

Shangri La’. Ladakh is one of the most important places in the<br />

whole of Central Asia. Only after1974 were foreigners permitted<br />

to visit this region. When there, one feels like being in some<br />

ancient town. From times immemorial, it has remained a very<br />

important spot on the Silk Route. It has strategic cultural and<br />

political significance, as it borders with Pakistan, China and the<br />

Central Asian states.<br />

Unlike the rest of Jammu and Kashmir, which is mainly Islamic,<br />

most Ladakhis in Leh District, as well as in Zangskar Valley of<br />

Kargil District, are Buddhists. While most of the people in the<br />

rest of Kargil District are Shia Muslims, there are also minorities<br />

following Hinduism and Sikhism religions. Most Buddhists follow<br />

the tantric form of Buddhism, known as Vajrayana Buddhism.<br />

Ladakhis are generally of Tibetan descent and there are about<br />

3,500 Tibetan refugees in Leh District. There is a large number of<br />

Gompas belonging to ancient and medieval periods. The living<br />

culture of Tibetan Buddhism exists here even today.<br />

The famous monasteries of Ladakh are Hemis, Shey, Thiksey,<br />

Spituk, Stakna, Chemrey, Stock, Taktok, Shankar, Lakeer, Phyang,<br />

Alchi and Lamayuru.<br />

Hemis Gompa: Hemis, the largest monastery in Ladakh, was<br />

built in 1630. It belongs to the red sect, Brokpa, and it lies at a<br />

of white stupas and rock engravings dating back to 11th century,<br />

dot the land. Inside, there is a giant statue of Padmasambhave.<br />

Impressive and intriguing, Hemis is different from the other<br />

important monasteries of Ladakh.<br />

Thiksey Monastery: About 20 kms from Leh, Thiksey is an<br />

imposing monastery and one of the finest examples of Ladakhi<br />

architecture. This Gompa is situated on the top of the hill and<br />

forms a part of the Gelukpa order. The 12-storey monastery<br />

complex contains numerous stupas, statues, thankas, wall<br />

paintings, and a large pillar engraved with the Buddha’s<br />

teachings. There are also sacred shrines and many precious<br />

objects to be seen. In the main prayer hall the Maitreya statue<br />

of the Future Buddha is located, standing at 12 m in height. He<br />

is sitting cross-legged in a lotus position, which is unusual, since<br />

normally he is depicted as sitting in a chair.<br />

Lamayuru Monastery: Spectacularly set, founded in the 10th<br />

century, it is about 125 klm west of Leh. As the legend goes,<br />

Lamayuru was a lake. It was blessed by a Lama, after which the<br />

water of the lake receded up to the mountains, leaving place<br />

for the monastery to be built. Now mostly in ruins, only the<br />

main hall exists and houses numerous tankhas. Lamayuru has<br />

fascinating caves carved out of the mountainside. Also known as<br />

Yung Drung (Swastika), it overlooks the village and valley.<br />

Shey Palace & Shey Gompa: Situated on a hillock, 15 km south<br />

of Leh, this palace was once the residence of the royal family<br />

and was constructed by the first king of Ladakh. According to<br />

the tradition, it was the seat of power of the pre-Tibetan kings,<br />

back in the 10th century. King Deldon Namgyal, constructed the<br />

Buddha’s statue, a two-story high image of the seated Buddha, is<br />

located inside. The image is worked out of copper sheets, gilded<br />

with gold, and is the biggest metal statue and the second largest<br />

Buddha statue in Ladakh. It also contains sacrificial offerings<br />

such as grain, jewels, holy symbols and mantras inside. Stone<br />

carvings and many stupas are scattered around the Dresthang<br />

Gompa.<br />

Alchi Gompa: On the banks of the Indus is the Alchi Gompa,<br />

dating thousand years back. One of its walls features thousands<br />

of miniature sized pictures of the Buddha. Three large sized<br />

images made of clay and painted brightly, are its focal attraction.<br />

LEH<br />

Leh is the capital town of the Ladakh region and is one of central<br />

Asia’s most scenic towns. The Indus River flows through this<br />

region. The people speak the Ladakhi language, which comes<br />

from the Tibetan stock, and it has its own script. Ladakhis are<br />

simple, yet beautiful, kind, caring and at the same time very<br />

tough too. If one walk through the Bazaar of Leh, it is wonderful<br />

to see the Ladakhi women in their traditional dresses selling<br />

vegetables. They are fun-loving people and are fond of music<br />

and dance. The majority are followers of Tibetan Buddhism.<br />

Having great respect for Lamas, the Buddhist monks, they offer<br />

one son to the monastery in keeping with the Lama tradition. In<br />

some monasteries there are nuns, known as Chomos.<br />

Leh Palace: The captivating Leh Palace, built for King Singge<br />

Namgyal, rises from the edge of a hill overlooking the town and<br />

stretches out towards the sky. It is a miniature version of the<br />

had nine floors, but it is now dilapidated and deserted. It was the<br />

home of the royal family, until they were exiled to Stok, in 1830.<br />

Above the palace, at the top of the Namgyal hill, is the Victory<br />

Tower, built to commemorate Ladakh’s victory over the Balti<br />

Kashmir armies, in the early 16th century.<br />

INDUS RIVER VALLEY<br />

This is a large valley formed by the main channel of the Indus<br />

River, as it flows across Ladakh. It includes parts of the Leh<br />

district, the Skardu region and the vast cold desert beyond. This<br />

valley consists of large stretches of undulating lands interspersed<br />

by high mountains, across which, there are many passes.<br />

The Indus Valley is the soul of Ladakh and is strategically the<br />

most important part. It borders with Pakistan, Afghanistan and<br />

China. The mountain ranges in this region were formed over a<br />

period of 45 million years by the folding of the Indian plate into<br />

the more stationary Eurasian Plate. The drift causes frequent<br />

earthquakes in the Himalayan region. The peaks in the Ladakh<br />

range are at a medium altitude close to the Zoji-la (5,000–5,500<br />

m), increasing in altitude towards south-east, reaching a climax<br />

in the twin summits of Nun-Kun (7000 m).<br />

The Indus River is the backbone of Ladakh which is greatly<br />

venerated in Hindu religion and culture. Most major historical<br />

and current towns — Shey, Leh, Basgo, and Tingmosgang, are<br />

situated close to the Indus River. After the Indo-Pakistani War of<br />

1947, the stretch of the Indus flowing through Ladakh is the only<br />

part of this river which still flows through India.<br />

Alchi Monastery<br />

Indus River<br />

Indus River Valley<br />

Leh Town<br />

Leh Palace<br />

Shey Palace<br />

Leh Market


INDUS VALLEY


26<br />

Shey Gompa<br />

Thiksey<br />

Monastery 27


Thiksey Monastery 29


Thiksey Monastery 31


32<br />

Ladakhi woman, Indus Valley


Alchi Monastery, Ladakh 35


Lamayaru Village, Ladakh 47


Lamayaru Monastery, Ladakh 49


50<br />

Indus River, Ladakh


52<br />

Shey Palace - Shey Gompa - Stupas, Ladakh<br />

Indus Valley 53


LEH


56<br />

Tibetan Refugees, Leh


Leh Market 59


Leh Market 61


Leh Victory Tower 63


Leh School 65


66<br />

Leh


Leh, Ladakh 69


Leh Market, Ladakh 71


NORTH <strong>INDIA</strong> Amritsar • Haridwar • Rishikesh • Dharamsala<br />

Golden Temple, Armitsar<br />

Golden Temple Lake<br />

Communal Food Hall<br />

Jallianwala Bagh, Armitsar<br />

Haridwar Ghats<br />

AMRITSAR<br />

Amritsar is a city in the northwestern part of India and is the<br />

administrative headquarters of Amritsar district in the state of<br />

Punjab. It is 32 klm east of Lahore, Pakistan and therefore, very<br />

close to India’s western border with Pakistan. Amritsar is home to<br />

Golden Temple, or Harmandir Sahib (1585-1604), the spiritual<br />

and cultural center of the Sikh religion. This important Sikh shrine<br />

attracts more visitors than the Tah Mahal in Agra and is the number<br />

one destination for non-resident-Indians in the whole of India. The<br />

Golden Temple was founded by Guru Ram Das Ji, the 4th guru of the<br />

Sikhs and is surrounded by a large Sarovar (manmade lake), known<br />

as “the Amritsar” (Lake of Holy Water or Immortal Nectar), giving<br />

its name to the city that grew around it. There are four entrances to<br />

the temple, signifying the importance of acceptance and openness,<br />

showing that every religion or faith is allowed to go in to meditate,<br />

or just listen to the prayers for peace. It was mainly intended as a<br />

place of worship for men and women from all walks of life and all<br />

religions, to come and worship God. All pilgrims visiting the Golden<br />

Temple, can eat free lunch or dinner in a communal hall, where up<br />

to ten thousand such meals are prepared daily by volunteers, the<br />

Sikh Guruwapas. Most Sikh people visit Amritsar and the Harmandir<br />

Sahib at least once during their lifetime, particularly during special<br />

occasions, such as birthdays, marriages and birth of children. Sikh<br />

men are never seen in public without their turbans.<br />

Amritsar is world known for the Jallianwala Bagh massacre.<br />

Brigadier Dyer is known for the orders which he gave on April 13,<br />

1919 in Amritsar. He opened fire on a gathering of unarmed civilians,<br />

including women and children, gathered at the Jallianwalla Bagh<br />

garden in what came to be later known as the Jallianwala Bagh<br />

massacre. The civilians had assembled there to participate in the<br />

annual Baisakhi celebrations, which are both a religious, as well as a<br />

cultural festival of the Punjabis. Not being residents of the city, they<br />

were unaware of the martial law that had been imposed. Upon<br />

entering the park, the General ordered the troops to fire directly<br />

into the assembled gathering. Firing continued until his troops’<br />

supply of ammunition was exhausted. The crowd was not given<br />

any warning to disperse. Figures from government civil servants in<br />

the city cite numbers well over 1000 dead, with more than 1,200<br />

wounded. The Westminster Gazette wrote, «No British action,<br />

during the whole course of our history in India, has struck a severe<br />

blow to Indian faith in British justice, than the massacre at Amritsar,<br />

and the attitude of official Anglo-India to it». The anti-British feeling<br />

among Indians greatly grew as a result of this incident. Gandhi<br />

had returned, only to find the radicals already wide spread and he<br />

commented «We do not want to punish Dyer. We have no desire for<br />

revenge. We want to change the system that produces Dyers». The<br />

Punjab, once the most reliable of the provinces, was no longer so.<br />

HARIDWAR<br />

The holy city of Haridwar, lies where the Ganges emerges with<br />

torrential force from her mountain wall to flow across the plain<br />

of Uttar Pradesh. It is the first of many sacred cities, including<br />

Rishikesh and Varanasi, that line the Ganges’s path to the Bay of<br />

Bengal, in the East. In the Hindi language, Haridwar stands for “Dwar<br />

of Hari”, or, “Gateway to God”. It is regarded as one of the seven<br />

holiest places for Hindus. According to Hindu scriptures, Haridwar<br />

is one of the four sites where drops of the elixir of immortality,<br />

Amritsa, accidentally spilled over from the pitcher carried away<br />

by the celestial bird Garuda. Thousands of devotees and pilgrims<br />

flock here from all over India, to bathe in the holy waters. This act<br />

is considered to be the equivalent of washing away one’s sins to<br />

attain Moksha. Lord Vishnu is said to have left his footprint on the<br />

stone that is set in the upper wall of Har-Ki-Pauri, where the Holy<br />

river Ganges enters.<br />

Hindu genealogy registers exist at Haridwar. In an ancient custom,<br />

detailed family genealogies of Hindu families for the past several<br />

generations, are kept by professional Hindu Brahmin Pandits,<br />

commonly known as Pandas. These records are updated on each<br />

visit to the city, and are a depository of the vast family trees of<br />

families in North India. For centuries, Hindus have visited the holy<br />

city. These visits were for pilgrimage purposes, cremation of their<br />

dead, or for the immersion of ashes of cremated relatives in the<br />

holy river Ganges, in accordance Hindu religious custom.<br />

RISHIKESH<br />

Rishikesh or Hrishikesh, is another holy city for Hindus, a famous<br />

centre of pilgrimage, and is the name of Vishnu, that means “Lord<br />

of the senses”. It is also known as the gateway to the Himalayas.<br />

Historically, Hrishikesh, has been a part of the legendary<br />

‘Kedarkhand’ (the present day Garhwal), the abode of Shiva.<br />

Legends state that Lord Rama did penance here for killing Ravana,<br />

the demon king of Lanka. Lord Rama meditated on the bank of<br />

the River Ganges, but the flowing water of the river was disturbing<br />

him, so out of rage, Lakshmana, Rama’s brother, shot an arrow in<br />

the river where the Bridge stands today. On the western bank of<br />

the bridge stands a Lakshmana temple, and on the eastern bank a<br />

temple dedicated to Lord Rama.<br />

It is here that the sacred river Ganges leaves the Shivalik mountains<br />

in the Himalayas, and flows out into the plains of northern India.<br />

Several temples can be found along the banks of the Ganges. The<br />

city attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists each year and is<br />

sometimes called «the world capital of Yoga» for its numerous<br />

yoga centers. It is believed that meditation here brings one closer<br />

to attainment of moksha, as does bathing in the holy river that<br />

flows through it. It is also home to the 120-year old Kailas Ashram<br />

Brahmavidyapeetham, an institution dedicated to preserve and<br />

promote the traditional Vedantic Studies.<br />

In February 1968, the Beatles visited the now closed Maharishi<br />

Mahesh Yogi’s ashram in Rishikesh. John Lennon even recorded<br />

a song here titled, ‘The Happy Hrishikesh Song’. The Beatles<br />

composed nearly 48 songs during their time at the Maharishi’s<br />

ashram, many of which appear on the White Album.<br />

DHARAMSALA<br />

Dharamsala is a beautiful city in the upper reaches of the Kangra<br />

Valley, divided into three parts – Upper Dharamsala, called McLeod<br />

Ganj, the middle and the lower one. In common Hindi usage, the<br />

word dharamshala refers to a “shelter” or a “rest house” for spiritual<br />

pilgrims. Dharamsala has been connected with Hinduism and<br />

Buddhism for a long time. Many monasteries have been established<br />

there in the past by the Tibetan immigrants in the 19th century.<br />

The town of McLeod Ganj, in Upper Dharamsala, is known<br />

worldwide for the teachings of His Holiness the Dalai Lama that<br />

take place every year. It is also his residence and is memorably<br />

called “Little Lhasa”, after the Tibetan capital.<br />

Dharamsala is the closest one can get to Tibet while still in India.<br />

The Tibetan settlement began in 1959, when His Holiness the Dalai<br />

Lama fled Tibet and the Prime Minister of India allowed him and<br />

his people to settle there and establish the «government-in-exile»<br />

in 1960. Several thousand Tibetans in exile have now settled in the<br />

area. With H.H. own words “… for those of us in exile, I said that our<br />

priority must be resettlement and the continuity of our cultural<br />

traditions. As to the future, I stated my belief that, with Truth,<br />

Justice and Courage as our weapons, we Tibetans would eventually<br />

prevail in regaining freedom for Tibet”. In 1970, The Dalai Lama<br />

opened the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, which houses<br />

over 80,000 manuscripts and other important resources related<br />

to Tibetan history, politics and culture. It is considered one of the<br />

most important institutions for Tibetology in the world. The exiled<br />

Tibetans have also built monasteries, temples, schools, the famous<br />

Tibetan Cultural Institute and orphanage houses.<br />

The town is also known for the world famous soldiers the Gurkhas,<br />

the so-called ‘Bravest of the Brave’. The 21st Gurkha Regiment<br />

performed heroic feats during World War I and II, when the<br />

battalions from Dharamsala made history. They not only made<br />

a major contribution to India’s defense, but many of them were<br />

freedom fighters for the Indian National Army.<br />

Ganges River, Rishikesh<br />

Hindu Temple, Rishikesh<br />

Rishikesh Town<br />

Upper Dharamsala<br />

Dharamsala Temple<br />

Haridwar Ghats<br />

Orphanage, Dharamsala


74<br />

The Golden Temple<br />

AMRITSAR


Sacred Tank (Amritsa), Golden Temple 77


78<br />

The Golden Temple, Armitsar


Communal Food Hall, Golden Temple, Amritsar 81


70<br />

Communal Food Hall, Golden Temple, Amritsar


72<br />

Communal Food Hall, Golden Temple, Amritsar


74<br />

Sikhs, Amritsar


76<br />

Jallianwala Bagh Monument


78<br />

India - Pakistan Attari Border Ceremony


HARIDWAR


Bathing Ghats, Haridwar 95


Bathing Ghats, Haridwar 97


Haridwar Ghats 99


100<br />

Lakshman Jhula Bridge<br />

RISHIKESH


102<br />

Night Puja, Ganges, Rishikesh


104<br />

Rishikesh


Color Festival, Rishikesh 107


Color Festival, Rishiskesh 109


Ganges River, Rishikesh 111


Pilgrims, Rishikesh 113


Sadhus, Rishikesh 115


Sadhus, Rishikesh 117


118<br />

Rishikesh


DHARAMSALA


Tibetans, Dharamsala 123


Tibetan Orphanage School, Dharamsala 125


Tibetan Orphanage School, Dharamsala 127


Tibetan Orphanage, Dharamsala 129


Tibetan Artists, Norbulingka Institute, Dharamsala 133


Rock Garden, Chandigarh 135


RAJASTHAN Jaipur • Udaipur • Pushkar • Deogarh • Ranakpur<br />

RAJASTHAN<br />

JAIPUR<br />

Udaipur has the prestige of housing the best miniature<br />

schools in the country. Being a mountainous region and<br />

DEOGARH<br />

Rajasthani Women<br />

The City Palace, Udaipur<br />

Rajasthan, the land of Kings, the land of chivalry, romance,<br />

bravery, art and architecture, is the home of the Rajputs, the<br />

warrior clans, who had ruled this region for many years and<br />

who are proud of their martial reputation and heroic past.<br />

According to the Hindu Mythology, the Rajputs of Rajasthan<br />

were the descendants of the Kshatriyas, the warriors of Vedic<br />

India period.<br />

The Indus Valley civilization, one of the world’s first and<br />

oldest, was located in a part of what is now Rajasthan. Rajputs<br />

resisted against the Islamic invasions and protected this land<br />

Jaipur or The Pink City, is the capital of Rajasthan state and<br />

the former capital of the princely state of Jaipur. It was<br />

founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of<br />

Amber, the region’s previous capital. The city is remarkable<br />

among pre-modern Indian cities for the width and regularity<br />

of its streets. The Palace quarter encloses a sprawling palace<br />

complex (known as the Hawa Mahal, or Palace of Winds), formal<br />

gardens, and a small lake. Nahargarh Fort crowns the hill in<br />

the northwest corner of the old city.<br />

Another noteworthy building is Sawai Jai Singh’s astronomical<br />

unsuitable for heavily armored Mughal horses, Udaipur<br />

remained untouched from Mughal influence, in spite of<br />

much pressure.<br />

This fierce sense of independence earned them the highest<br />

gun salute in Rajasthan. Udaipur is referred to as the «Venice<br />

of the East», the «Most Romantic City of India» and the<br />

«Kashmir of Rajasthan».<br />

PUSHKAR<br />

Deogarh village is situated on the right bank of the river<br />

Betwa, on the western end of the Lalitpur range of hills.<br />

The chief of Deogarh, known as ‘The Rawat’, was one of<br />

sixteen feudal barons entitled to wait upon the Maharani of<br />

Udaipur, the capital of Mewar. These type of feudal estates,<br />

called ‘Thikanas’, were awarded by the ruling Maharani to<br />

a nobleman, either due to blood relationship, or for an act<br />

of valor. Deogarh is also famous for its school of miniature<br />

painting.<br />

Rajasthani Dancer<br />

Pushkar Lake<br />

Amber Fort, Jaipur<br />

Palace of Winds, Jaipur<br />

Astronomical Observatory<br />

with their warfare and chivalry for more than 500 years. Later<br />

the Mughals were able to set firm grip on northern India, but<br />

the fighting spirit and valor of the Rajputs impressed them to<br />

such an extent, that they started treating their Rajput aides as<br />

the backbone of their Kingdom. Even after their defeat, the<br />

Mughals held Rajput valor and value in the highest esteem.<br />

It is a place of glory and splendor, with its vibrant traditions,<br />

awe-inspiring monuments, and vigorous customs. The Rajputs<br />

were excellent builders and have dotted the landscape with<br />

their legacy and with some of the most imposing forts and<br />

palaces in the world. Today, the structures defy time, and tell<br />

a story of gallantry, courage and tragedy of a bygone era, a<br />

story of survival in the harsh Thar Desert.<br />

The state gained its independence in 1949, with the town of<br />

Jaipur, as its capital. It is often portrayed as one vast open-air<br />

museum. The dance, music & art forms have been consciously<br />

cultivated and patronized by the royal courts. Rajasthan is also<br />

home to some of India’s most romantic cities.<br />

observatory, named Jantar Mantar. Sawai Jai Singh was a<br />

mathematician, an astronomer, an astrologer, and a great<br />

musician of his era. He built five observatories throughout<br />

India: in Jaipur, Ujjain, Varanasi, Mathura and Delhi but only<br />

the one at Jaipur is functional. In 1853, when the Prince of<br />

Wales visited Jaipur, the whole city was painted pink to<br />

welcome him. Today, avenues remain painted in pink and<br />

provide a distinctive appearance to the city.<br />

UDAIPUR<br />

Udaipur, The City of Lakes, is the historic capital of the former<br />

Kingdom of Mewar, and the administrative headquarters of<br />

Udaipur District, known for its Rajput-era palaces. The Lake<br />

Palace, which covers an entire island in the Pichola Lake, as<br />

well as the City Palace, the richest palace museum in the<br />

entire Rajasthan and stands on the east bank of Lake Pichola,<br />

are of particular fame. City Palace is actually a massive series<br />

of palaces, built at different times from 1559.<br />

Pushkar is one of the oldest cities of India, and lies on the<br />

shore of Pushkar Lake. It is a sanctified spot and one of the<br />

five pilgrimage sites for devout Hindus. It is considered as old<br />

as creation, and has been a place of pilgrimage for the Hindus,<br />

since time immemorial. It has five principal temples, among<br />

which, one dedicated to Brahma, the Hindu God of Creation.<br />

Today, there are very few temples dedicated to Lord Brahma<br />

anywhere in the world. The date of its actual founding is not<br />

known, but legend associates Lord Brahma with its creation.<br />

Pushkar means, born due to a flower. Hindus believe that the<br />

gods released a swan with a lotus in its beak and let it fall on<br />

earth, where Brahma would perform a ritual. The place where<br />

the lotus fell was called Pushkar. The lake has 52 ghats, where<br />

pilgrims descend to bathe in the sacred waters. Pushkar is<br />

world famous for its cattle fair (especially camels), one of the<br />

world’s largest, held there each year. Men buy and sell their<br />

livestock, which includes camels, cows, sheep and goats. The<br />

women set up their stalls, full of bracelets, textiles and fabrics.<br />

RANAKPUR<br />

Ranakpur is located between Jodhpur and Udaipur. It is widely<br />

known for its marble Jain temple, which was nominated as<br />

one of the top Seven Wonders of the World and is dedicated<br />

to Adinatha. It is also known for a much older Sun Temple,<br />

which lies opposite the former.<br />

The dating of this temple is considered to be around the<br />

15th century. Over 1444 marble pillars, all differently carved<br />

in exquisite detail, support the temple. There is one beautiful<br />

carving, made out of a single marble rock, with 108 heads of<br />

snakes and numerous tails. The image faces all four cardinal<br />

directions, north south , east and west. The temple is designed<br />

as caumukha, with four faces. The construction of the temple<br />

and the quadrupled image, symbolizes the Tirthankara’s<br />

conquest of the four cardinal directions and, hence, it<br />

symbolizes the cosmos.<br />

Pushkar Cattle Fair<br />

Deogarh Mahal<br />

Jain Temple, Ranankpur<br />

The City Palace, Udaipur<br />

Jain Temple, Ranankpur


JAIPUR<br />

139


Amber Fort, Jaipur 141


Amber Fort, Jaipur 119


Amber Fort, Jaipur 121


Amber Fort, Jaipur 123


124<br />

Amber Palace, Jaipur


Handicraft Artists, Jaipur 127


City Palace, Jaipur 129


Jantar Mantar, Astronomical Observatory, Jaipur 155


UDAIPUR


158<br />

City Palace, Udaipur


160<br />

Lake Pichola, City Palace - Lake Palace


PUSHKAR


164<br />

Camel Fair, Pushkar


Camel Fair, Pushkar 167


Camel Fair, Pushkar 169


Camel Fair, Pushkar 173


Camel Fair, Pushkar 175


176<br />

Camel Fair, Pushkar


Camel Fair, Pushkar 179


Camel Fair, Pushkar 181


Pushkar Lake 183


DEOGARTH


Deogarth Village 187


188<br />

Deogarth Village


Deogarh 191


Train, Deogarh 195


196<br />

Jain Temple<br />

RANAKPUR


198<br />

Jain Temple, Ranakpur


200<br />

Ranakpur


DELHI • AGRA • VARANASI<br />

DELHI<br />

and it was called Agreva, or ‘the border of the forest’. Legend<br />

Jahān’s time, and reworked extensively with marble and pietra<br />

the names of the two rivers Varuna and Assi, for it lies between<br />

Gate of India, Delhi<br />

The Red Fort, Delhi<br />

Jama Masjid Mosque, Delhi<br />

Taj Mahal Entrance, Agra<br />

The Taj Mahal, Agra<br />

Located on the banks of the river Yamuna, Delhi, the capital<br />

of India, is divided into the ancient city of Old Delhi and the<br />

modern city of New Delhi, planned by leading 20th century<br />

British architect Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker. The legacy<br />

of the past survives in the city’s many monuments, each a<br />

chronicle of the glory of its time. The Red Fort, the Humayun’s<br />

Tomb, the Cutab Minar, the Jama Masjid Mosque and the<br />

impressive government buildings, typify the soul of the<br />

country. In time, the city conceals within its bosom the history<br />

of civilizations that flourished for more than three thousand<br />

years. According to legends, the city was founded in the times<br />

of the epic Mahabharata, about 1500 BC and it was located near<br />

the Old Fort. Since those early days, many dynasties and rulers<br />

flourished on its soil. Today, the city is a blend of the modern and<br />

the traditional with skyscrapers, beautiful gardens and wide,<br />

tree-lined avenues, showing the Mughal passion of landscaping<br />

and architectural excellence. More important, however, is that<br />

Delhi blends within its folds the great cultural variety of India.<br />

Hinduism is the religion of 82% of Delhi’s population. There are<br />

also large communities of Muslims (11.7%), Sikhs (4.0%), Jains<br />

(1.1%) and Christians (0.9%). Other minorities include Parsis,<br />

Buddhists and Jews. Hindi is the principal spoken language<br />

while English is the principal written language of the city.<br />

AGRA<br />

describes the founding of the city to Rājā Badal Singh (around<br />

1475), who’s fort, Badalgarh, stood on or near the site of the<br />

present Fort. It achieved fame as the capital of the Mughal<br />

emperors from 1526 to 1658 and remains a major tourist<br />

destination because of its many splendid Mughal-era buildings.<br />

The most notable are the Tāj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpūr<br />

Sikrī, all three are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.<br />

Taj Mahal stands as an ultimate Mughal extravagance and<br />

sophistication. It is described by R.Tagore as “a tear in the face<br />

if eternity”, but its appeal lies in the knowledge that it was built<br />

for love. It is one of the most famous buildings in the world.<br />

Completed in 1652, this mausoleum was built by the Mughal<br />

King Shāh Jahān as the final resting place for his beloved wife,<br />

Mumtāz Mahal. Finished in marble, it is perhaps India’s most<br />

fascinating and beautiful monument. This perfectly symmetrical<br />

monument that took 22 years of hard labor and 20,000 workers,<br />

masons and jewelers to build, is set amidst landscaped gardens<br />

and was planned by the Persian architect Ustad Isa. It is an<br />

acknowledged masterpiece of symmetry and is also noted<br />

particularly for its elegant domes, intricately carved screens and<br />

some of the best inlay work ever seen anywhere in the world,<br />

incorporating semi-precious stones. Verses of the Koran are<br />

inscribed on it and at the top of the gate there are twenty-two<br />

small domes, signifying the number of years the monument<br />

took to build.<br />

Agra Fort (sometimes called the Red Fort), was commissioned<br />

dura inlay having a total perimeter of 2.4 kilometers. The fort<br />

is a typical example of Mughal architecture, showing how the<br />

North Indian style of fort construction, differentiated from<br />

that of the South.<br />

Fatehpur Sikri: It was built by the Mughal Emperor Akbar as<br />

his capital, in the the 2nd half of the 16th century, about 35<br />

km from Agra Later abandoned, the site displays a number<br />

of buildings with historical significance. Fatehpur Sikri was<br />

built by Akbar after Jodhabai, his beloved Hindu wife, blessed<br />

by the famous Sufi Saint Salim Christi, gave birth to the long<br />

awaited son.<br />

VARANASI<br />

Varanasi, also commonly known as Benares and Kashi, is<br />

situated on the west bank of the River Ganges, in Uttar Pradesh<br />

and is regarded as a holy pilgrimage site by Hindus, Buddhists<br />

and Jains. It is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in<br />

the world. American writer Mark Twain wrote: «Benares is older<br />

than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and<br />

looks twice as old as all of them put together”.<br />

The city’s culture is closely associated with the River Ganges<br />

and its religious importance to the Hindu people. People often<br />

refer to it as «the city of temples», «the holy city of India»,<br />

«the religious capital of India», «the city of lights», «the city of<br />

the confluence of Varuna with the Ganges being to its north,<br />

and that of Assi and the Ganges to its south.<br />

According to legend, the city was founded by the Hindu deity,<br />

Lord Shiva, around 5,000 years ago, thus making it one of the<br />

most important pilgrimage destinations in the country. It is one<br />

of the seven sacred cities for the Hindus. It has many temples<br />

along its banks and attracts about 1,000,000 Hindu pilgrims<br />

each year, who regard Ganges itself as Goddess. Most of the<br />

100 Ghats, that are steps leading to the river, are bathing Ghats,<br />

while others are used as cremation sites. Hindus believe that<br />

bathing in the Ganges absolves sins and that dying in Varanasi<br />

ensures release of a person’s soul from the cycle of reincarnation.<br />

Varanasi is one of the holiest places in Buddhism too, being one<br />

of the four pilgrimage sites said to have been designated by<br />

Buddha himself.<br />

In the residential neighborhood of Varanasi lies Sarnath, the site<br />

of the deer park where Gautama Buddha is said to have given<br />

his first sermon about the basic principles of Buddhism.<br />

Sadhus: Holy men who renounce all worldly goods, comforts<br />

and sex, in a lifelong bid to find enlightenment and gain<br />

moksha (liberation from the eternal circle of reincarnation).<br />

There may be five million Sadhus in India. Some of them live<br />

in Ashrams, temples forests or caves, while others spend their<br />

lives roaming the subcontinent on foot or rail. All of them<br />

survive on donations and goodwill. The sadhu is not to be<br />

Fatehpur Sikri, Agra<br />

Ganges River, Varanasi<br />

Night prayers, Varanasi<br />

Sarnath, Varanasi<br />

Shadu, Holy Man<br />

by the great Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1565. It had been<br />

learning» and the «culture capital of India». Many Hindus believe<br />

confused with the Indian guru. Viewed more as teachers or<br />

On the banks of Yamuna River, in the State of Uttar Pradesh, is<br />

built before 1000 AD, but it was later renovated by Akbar. The<br />

that Varanasi is the ‘Center of Universe’, and it is called “Universal<br />

mentors, gurus can come from any walk of life and they are<br />

the famous city of Agra. It is mentioned in the epic Mahābhārata<br />

red sandstone fort was converted into a palace during Shāh<br />

Capital Benares”. The name Varanasi has its origin possibly from<br />

always at hand to offer advice on any conceivable subject.<br />

Agra Fort<br />

Varanasi Ghats


204<br />

Presidential Palace<br />

DELHI


206<br />

Red Fort - Humayun’s Tomb - Cutab Minar, Delhi


208<br />

Henna artwork (mehndi) symbolizing the love between husband & wife<br />

Wedding Ceremony, Delhi 209


210<br />

Arts & Crafts Museum, Delhi


Arts & Crafts Museum, Delhi 213


214<br />

Delhi


216<br />

Sikhs, Bangla Sahib Temple, Old Delhi


218<br />

Communal Food Hall, Bangla Sahib Temple, Old Delhi


Jama Masjid Mosque, Old Delhi 223


224<br />

Jama Masjid Mosque, Old Delhi


Jama Masjid Mosque, Old Delhi 229


230<br />

Central Railway Station, Delhi


232<br />

Central Railway Station, Delhi


234<br />

The Taj Mahal<br />

AGRA


Agra 237


Agra Fort 239


Agra Fort 241


Agra 243


244<br />

Taj Mahal, Agra


246<br />

Palace Complex, Fatehpur Sikri, Agra


VARANASI


Bathing Ghats, Varanasi 251


Ganges River, Varanasi 253


Bathing in the Ganges, Varanasi 255


258<br />

Bathing Ghats, Varanasi


260<br />

Bathing Ghats, Varanasi


264<br />

Shadus, Varanasi


Varanasi 267


268<br />

Aarti - Night Puja, Varanasi


Diya lamps, Varanasi 271


272 Street Sellers, Varanasi<br />

Varanasi 273


Sarnath, Varanasi 275


MAHARASTRA Mumbai • Goa<br />

MUMBAI<br />

images carved into them. Designed by Frederick William<br />

dabbawallah)from each house, color-code the office addresses<br />

famous for their architecture. Feast and festivals, traditional<br />

Stevens and decorated by local art students and craftsmen,<br />

onto the lids, thread them on to long poles and cycle off to<br />

folk arts and music is a way of life for the hospitable people<br />

Mumbai Port<br />

Gateway of India, Mumbai<br />

Victoria Terminus, Mumbai<br />

Mumbai (formerly Bombay) is a cluster of seven islands and<br />

derives its name from Mumbadevi, the patron goddess of<br />

the Koli fishermen, its oldest inhabitants. Once a Portuguese<br />

princess’ dowry, who named the city “Bom Bahia” or “Good<br />

Bay”, and later an adornment of neo-gothic British architecture,<br />

Mumbai is more than a metropolis. It is in fact a mix of mud<br />

huts and sky- scrapers, age old traditions and high fashions,<br />

the industrialists’ heaven and movie makers’ Bollywood. A<br />

lovely natural harbor and winding creek set off the city of<br />

Mumbai from the long, narrow coast of Western India. Mumbai<br />

pulsates with activity. It is a city that is disciplined by no time<br />

frame-neither by day nor night. Mumbai is also the country’s<br />

financial powerhouse, the nation’s industrial and economic<br />

heart. The city has numerous famous landmarks including<br />

the Gateway of India, Haji Ali’s Mosque, Mani Bhavan Gandhi<br />

Museum, and India’s most beautiful railway station Chhatrapati<br />

Shivaji Terminus or Victoria Terminus, a masterpiece of Gothic<br />

architecture and stained-glass windows.<br />

it was completed in 1888 and named to commemorate<br />

Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Now it is the headquarter<br />

of the Central Railway with over 1,000 trains and two million<br />

passengers passing through the station daily. In 2004 it was<br />

declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />

Dharavi Slum, the largest slum in Mumbai and in all of Asia,<br />

is a micro-cosmos of Mumbai life with more than 1,000,000<br />

inhabitants. Established in 1933, it incorporates 1.7 sq. km<br />

sandwiched between Mumbai’s two railway lines. While it may<br />

look a bit shambled from the outside, the maze of alleys and<br />

streets of this city within the city are actually a collection of<br />

various settlements. In each part of the slum inhabitants from<br />

different parts of India, and with different trades, have set up<br />

homes and various factories, such as potters, Muslim tanners,<br />

embroidery workers, metal-smiths, workers recycling plastics.<br />

Some of these industries even export their wares, making the<br />

annual turnover of business from Dharavi US$650 million.<br />

the nearest station. Here the dabbas are handed over to other<br />

dabbawalls, who deliver them to the right offices, while empty<br />

dabbas are delivered back home by late afternoon. This is one<br />

of Mumbai’s most efficient services.<br />

The Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat: This is a 136-years old dhobi<br />

ghat (place where clothes are washed) where two hundred<br />

dhobi families live and work. Workers here beat laundry in<br />

a series of 1026 open air concrete wash pens, immerse it in<br />

giant vats of boiling starch, hang it to dry, and finally press<br />

the garments with wood-burning stones before delivering it<br />

for a few rupees. It is the oldest and biggest human powered<br />

washing machine.<br />

Elephanta Island, also called Gharapuri Island or place of<br />

caves, is one of a number of islands six miles southeast of<br />

the coast of Mumbai. Known in ancient times as Gharapuri,<br />

the present name Elephanta, was given by 17th century<br />

Portuguese explorers, after seeing a monolithic basalt<br />

who live here. Goa’s distinct culture is a legacy of its colonial<br />

past. Goa, the ancient Gomanchala of Vedic fame, was liberated<br />

from the Portuguese after nearly 451 years of colonial rule<br />

and was annexed to India in 1961. As a result of this dichotomy<br />

in its history, Goa is an exotic mix of both eastern and western<br />

cultural influences.<br />

Panaji, is one of the most beautiful towns in India, a town<br />

of pastel shades and narrow streets. In old Goa, there are<br />

two World Heritage Sites, the Bom Jesus Basilica and a few<br />

designated convents. The Basilica holds the mortal remains<br />

of St Francis Xavier, regarded by many Catholics as the patron<br />

saint of Goa. Vasco de Gama is Goa’s largest city while the<br />

historic city of Margao still exhibits the cultural influence of<br />

the Portuguese, who first landed in the early 16th century as<br />

merchants, and conquered it soon thereafter.<br />

Goa’s known history stretches back to the third century BC,<br />

when it formed part of the Empire ruled by the Buddhist<br />

The Dabbawallas, Mumbai<br />

Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai<br />

Elephanta Island Caves<br />

Dharavi Slum, Mumbai<br />

The Gateway of India: Mumbai’s most famous landmark,<br />

was the first sight to greet travellers to Indian shores during<br />

the British Raj. It also became the exit point for British<br />

troops after India gained independence in 1947. It was<br />

built to commerorate the visit of King George V and Queen<br />

Mary in 1911 and it was designed by the British architect<br />

George Wittet.<br />

Versova Village & Fish market: It’s a fishermen village in the<br />

suburb of Mumbai facing the Arabic Sea. A large population<br />

of Mumbai’s fishing community, the Kolis, resides there. The<br />

fishermen bring in their catch twice a day and a wholesale fish<br />

market is set up by the sharp tongued Koli fishwives. These<br />

fisherwomen, colorfully dressed, sort the catch unloaded from<br />

the fishing boats at the quay and sell the fish. The fish that dry<br />

in the sun are bombil, the fish used in the dish Bombay duck.<br />

sculpture of an elephant found near the entrance. The<br />

Elephanta Caves, dating back to the 7th century, are a<br />

complex of Shiva temple caves and was made a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site in 1987. The worship of Shiva inspired the<br />

building of these temples. The carving of the 18 foot tall 6th<br />

century Lord Shiva, in his trinity of manifestations, is especially<br />

spectacular.<br />

emperor, Ashoka. Buddhist monks laid the foundation of<br />

Buddhism in Goa. In 1510, the Portuguese defeated the<br />

ruling Bijapur kings, leading to the establishment of a<br />

permanent settlement in Old Goa. The Portuguese converted<br />

a large portion of their subjects in Goa to Christianity. The<br />

repeated wars of the Portuguese with the Marathas and<br />

the Deccan sultanate, along with the repressive religious<br />

policies of Portuguese, led to large migrations of Goans to<br />

Goa beach<br />

Versova Fishing boats<br />

Victoria Terminus (renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus): A<br />

The Dabbawallahs of Mumbai: There are men who pick up<br />

GOA<br />

neighboring areas.<br />

Panaji, Goa<br />

masterpiece of Gothic architecture and stained-glass windows,<br />

this is India’s most beautiful railway station. It has towering<br />

spires, domed arches and buttresses and pillars of animal<br />

freshly cooked lunches from over 100,000 suburban homes<br />

and deliver them to offices all over the city. They pick up<br />

the meals packed in Tiffin boxes (or dabbas hence the name<br />

Goa is a tiny, emerald land on the West Coast of India, with<br />

natural scenic beauty and attractive beaches. It’s temples are<br />

Koli Women, Mumbai<br />

Women of Goa


278<br />

Taj Mahal Hotel - Gate of India<br />

MUMBAI


Mumbai 281


282<br />

Mani Braven Gandhi Museum


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 285


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 287


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 289


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 291


292<br />

Street Seller, Mumbai


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 295


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 297


300<br />

Slum, Banganga Tank Area, Mumbai


Dharavi Slum, Mumbai 303


Mahalahmi Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai 305


Mahalahmi Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai 307


Mahalahmi Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai 309


Versova Beach, Mumbai 311


Versova Fishing Boats 313


Versova Fishing Boats 315


Versova Fishing Boats 317


Versova Fish Market, Mumbai 319


320 Elephanta Caves<br />

Versova Fish Market 321


Koli Fishermen, Versova 323


Versova Fishing Village 325


326<br />

Versova Fishing Village


Versova Fishing Village 329


330<br />

Versova Fishing Village


332<br />

Crawford Market, Mumbai


334<br />

Thieve’s Market, Mumbai


Crawford Market, Mumbai 337


ELEPHANTA ISLAND


342 Elephanta Island Caves<br />

Bonnet Macaques, Elephanta Caves 343


344 Elephanta Caves<br />

Lord Shiva’s Trinity Manifestation 345


GOA


Goa 349


Spices Plantation, Goa 351


Street Sellers, Panaji, Goa 353


Panaji School, Goa 355


Margao Market, Goa 357


Goa 359


THE SOUTH Tamil Nadu • Kerala<br />

THE SOUTH<br />

Prior to the Christian era, the Cheras, Cholas and Pandias ruled<br />

Tamil Country. This was the golden period of Tamil literature, the<br />

At the end of the day all usable remains are taken home for family<br />

consumption.<br />

Coconut water and the milk produced from the coconut fruit are<br />

both popular drinks, while the husk fiber is converted to coir for<br />

Kerala, Backwaters<br />

Garupa Detail, Madurai<br />

Sri Meenakshi Temple<br />

Devotee, Madurai<br />

Street Market, Madurai<br />

South India is a region of vast cultural wealth and lush beauty<br />

where the Dravidian culture flourished, without the cultural<br />

invasions that characterize northern India. It has an important<br />

place in the history of India, since the trade along this spice route,<br />

was one of the most influential commercial activities in history,<br />

and directly affected the course of world events. The colonization<br />

of America, as well as the Indian subcontinent, was largely a result<br />

of the European attempts to find sea routes to the East. Columbus’<br />

desire to find an Atlantic sea route to the East Indies, led him<br />

to America. The British East India Company, formed in 1600 to<br />

compete with the Dutch spice trade, resulted in the colonization<br />

of the Indian subcontinent. Pepper, or ‘Black Gold’ as it was<br />

known, was exported from this coastal city to Greece as far back<br />

as the fourth century BC, but the real flood of trade began in the<br />

first century AD.<br />

TAMIL NADU<br />

Perched in the Southern most part of the Indian Peninsula, the<br />

state of Tamil Nadu is situated between Bay of Bengal in the<br />

east and Indian Ocean in the south. It is blessed with all the<br />

geographical landforms, ranging from beaches and hill stations,<br />

to forests and plains. The Tamils were, and are still considered, the<br />

best creators of temples and monuments.<br />

The history of Tamil Nadu is very old and it is believed that<br />

human endeavors to inhabit this area began as early as 300, 000<br />

years ago. It is also suggested that the first Dravidians of Tamil<br />

country were part of the early Indus Valley settlers and moved<br />

south during the advent of Aryans around 1500 BC. The proximity<br />

Sangham Age. Dravidian, the language still dominant in South<br />

India, is a unique mode of communication, quite distinct from the<br />

Indo-European, Indo-Aryan languages of North India.<br />

MADURAI<br />

Madurai or the «City of Nectar», the “Athens of South India”,<br />

is the oldest and second largest city of Tamil Nadu. This city is<br />

located on Vaigai River. Dating about 2500 years back in time, it<br />

is one of southern India’s oldest cities, and has been a centre of<br />

learning and pilgrimage for centuries. It is also the home of one<br />

of the most sacred temple towns of India, the Meenakshi Temple,<br />

around which the city evolved. In 300 BC, Megasthenis, the Greek<br />

historian, wrote about Madurai that the city was a delight for<br />

visiting Greek traders.<br />

Sri Meenakshi Temple: The complex is huge and the construction<br />

dates back to more than 2000 years, it was funded by contributions<br />

from many dynasties that once ruled over Madurai. There are four<br />

gigantic gateways enclosing two shrines, that contains splendid<br />

art and sculpture works. Undoubtedly one of the most important<br />

features of the temple is the thousand-pillared hall in which each<br />

pillar has a big and brilliant statue sculpted on it, telling the story<br />

of the beautiful princess of Madurai and her marriage to Lord<br />

Siva. These 985 richly carved pillars are decorated with scenes<br />

from the wedding and each one surpasses the other in beauty.<br />

They are entirely covered in thousands of stucco figures of deities,<br />

mythical animals and monsters and painted in vivid colors.<br />

Market trading is available to anyone, while the absence of<br />

KERALA<br />

The State of Kerala or “God’s Own Country”, is famous for its<br />

heritage and culture, and for its festivals which are celebrated<br />

here since ancient times. When humans first migrated from Africa<br />

70,000 years ago, some settled on the lush Kerala coast. Waves<br />

of migrants from North India added to the mix. Later Greek and<br />

Roman traders made their way to the coast, at the port of Muziris,<br />

the most important of 20 ports on the west coast of India. The<br />

Periplus, a Greek merchant’s guide to the Indian trade from<br />

the 1st century BC, notes these ports. All along its coast, exotic<br />

backwaters (chains of lagoons and lakes), canals and inlets create<br />

an intricate maze that stretches for 1900 km across the land, lying<br />

parallel to the Arabian Sea coast, known as the Malabar Coast. The<br />

network includes five large lakes linked by canals, man-made and<br />

natural, fed by 38 rivers that flow down from the Western Ghats<br />

range. Kerala’s most distinctive feature is probably its matrilineal<br />

society. Unique to South Asia, property in Kerala is passed from<br />

mother to daughter. Kerala also has the highest literacy rate in<br />

India, about 90%.<br />

The Keralan Rice Boats are a reworked model of Kettuvallams<br />

which, in earlier times, were used to carry rice and spices to the<br />

Cochin port (in the Malayalam language, Kettu means “tied with<br />

ropes”, and vallam means “boat”. It was the important mode of<br />

transportation in coastal Kerala, because of its accessibility to the<br />

most remote areas.<br />

rope and matting. In Sanskrit the Coconut palm is called “The tree<br />

providing all life’s necessities”.<br />

The port of Cochin or Kochi at the lake’s outlet to the Arabian<br />

Sea, is situated on one of the world’s finest natural harbors. At<br />

the entrance of the harbor you can see the shore-based Chinese<br />

fishing nets, (from the Court of Kublai Khan 1.400 AD). It was built<br />

in British, Dutch and Portuguese styles reflecting the architectural<br />

planning of the colonists. The Church of St. Francis, where Vasco<br />

de Gama was buried in 1524, is also located here.<br />

Kathakali Dance Performance is considered to be one of the<br />

oldest theater forms in the world. It is a dance drama with colorful<br />

makeup, elaborate costumes, detailed gestures and well-defined<br />

body movements presented in tune with the music. It originated<br />

in the state of Kerala during the 17th century AD and tells the<br />

stories of the Hindu gods, Rama and Krishna. The actors never<br />

speak, but only use hand gestures, expressions and rhythmic<br />

dancing to tell the story. Their intensive training can often last for<br />

10 years.<br />

Kalady is a village located east of the Periyar River, near<br />

Cochin. Notably, it’s the birthplace of the Indian philosopher<br />

Sri Adi Sankara (788- 820 AD). Sri Adi Sankara Keerthi Sthampa<br />

Mandapam is an eight-story memorial signifying the love of an<br />

innocent child for his beloved mother and the blessings of Lord<br />

Krishna. This shrine is open to all pilgrims, irrespective of religion<br />

and caste. Legend holds that one day, the widowed mother of<br />

Little Sankara, fainted after walking three kilometers for her daily<br />

bath in the Periyar river. Feeling helpless, the boy prayed to Lord<br />

Krishna. His tears moved Krishna, who blessed him thus: «the<br />

Backwaters Village, Kerala<br />

Fort Cochin, Kerala<br />

Coconut Trees, Kerala<br />

Chinese Fishing Nets<br />

Kathakali Actor<br />

to the sea established the Tamil Country on the maritime map of<br />

price tags provides the opportunity to charge different price to<br />

Coconut Palm: Important for the Indian economy, serving many<br />

river will flow where your little feet are”. The river began flowing<br />

the world even before the dawn of Christian era. The Tamils were<br />

friends, gurus, strangers, village elders etc. Stock is constantly<br />

functions. Palm fronds are used for thatching and weaving. White<br />

through little Sankara’s garden and he installed Lord Krishna into<br />

bonded through trade links with ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome.<br />

rearranged to give the impression of freshness and abundance.<br />

coconut meat can be eaten raw, and is often used in cooking oil.<br />

the present temple.<br />

Madurai Slum<br />

Kettuvallams, Kerala


362<br />

Garupa detail, Temple Gateway<br />

MADURAI


Offerings, Sri Meenakshi Temple 365


Sri Meenakshi Temple 367


Sri Meenakshi Temple, Pillar Hall 369


370<br />

Sri Meenakshi Temple, Madurai


Sri Meenakshi Temple, Madurai 373


374<br />

Sri Meenakshi Temple, Madurai


Street Tailors 377


Madurai 381


Mariamman Teppakulam, Temple Tank, Madurai 383


384<br />

Madurai


386<br />

Flower Market, Madurai


Madurai Slum 389


Madurai Market 391


394<br />

Madurai


Madurai Slum 397


Madurai Street Market 399


Madurai Street Market 401


Madurai Market 407


Madurai Town 409


Madurai School 411


412<br />

Madurai School


Church School, Madurai 415


416<br />

Madurai Street


KERALA


Kerala Backwaters 421


Kerala Backwaters 423


Kerala Backwaters 425


426 Making rope out of coconuts<br />

Kerala Backwaters Village 427


Kerala Backwaters Village 429


Keralan Rice Boats - Kettuvalams 431


432<br />

Chinese Fishing Nets<br />

Rice fields, Kerala 433


Fort Cochin, Kerala 435


436<br />

Cochin Harbor, Kerala


438<br />

Chinese Fishing Nets, Cochin Harbor


Kathakali Dance Performance, Cochin 441


Kalady Temple 443


Bonnet Macaquas, Kerala 445


446<br />

Tea Plantation, Kerala


LEH<br />

DHARAMSALA<br />

THE NATIONAL FLAG OF <strong>INDIA</strong> is in tricolour. The saffron stands for courage, sacrifice<br />

and the spirit of unity; the white, for purity and truth; the green for faith and fertility. In<br />

the centre of the white band, there is a wheel in navy blue to indicate the Dharma Chakra,<br />

the Wheel of Law in the Sarnath Lion Capital, dating back to 200th century BC and to<br />

show that there is life in movement and death in stagnation.The design of the National<br />

Flag of India was adopted by Indiaʼs Constitutional Assembly on 22nd July, 1947, and it<br />

symbolizes freedom.<br />

AMRITSAR<br />

HARIDWAR<br />

RISHIKESH<br />

PUSHKAR<br />

DELHI<br />

JAIPUR<br />

AGRA<br />

DEOGARH<br />

UDAIPUR<br />

VARANASI<br />

MUMBAI<br />

Wikipedia: attribution=PHGCOM<br />

THE PERIPLUS OF THE ERYTHRAEAN SEA<br />

It was written in the middle of the 1st century AD describes navigation and trading opportunities<br />

from Egypt along the coast of the Red Sea, and others along Northeast Africa and<br />

India. The author was an unknown Greek living in Egypt. Periplus was unique in providing accurate<br />

insights into what the ancient world knew about the lands around the Indian Ocean.<br />

Although Erythraean Sea literally means “Red Sea”, to the Greeks it included the Indian Ocean<br />

and the Persian Gulf.<br />

GOA<br />

COCHIN<br />

KERALA<br />

TAMIL NADU<br />

MADURAI<br />

ΙΝDΙΑ<br />

The dots in this map represent the sites<br />

where the photographs of the book<br />

“India, Unity in diversity” were taken.

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