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Dressitlg,vell rests on two pillars-colot ari.d<br />
propon ion. O nce you learn vvhich colors enhance<br />
yoLu· complexion and why specific proportions flatter<br />
your physique, you are haJ-~vay home. And '~rhar does<br />
i r take for a man to grasp these two critical ae . thetics?<br />
Nor nearlr as much aptitude or savoir faire as you<br />
might think C€msider rhis: the classic m.ale tu:xedo<br />
confers ins tan r;;u1eous ·elatl on aU corners, yet this oldworld<br />
regime is composed of only two colors, black<br />
and whjte. lf such a simple color scenario qlll help any<br />
m.an appear debonair, you don't need m be smne kind<br />
of Kandinsky to look your best.<br />
As for proportion. here's the kind of mind-set<br />
responsible for the current state of sartorial confLls.i.on.<br />
'Men. tlS \~ reJI<br />
as women, invatiably i.nqu.ire whether tie<br />
widths wi ll become lat·ger or smaller. F-Tovvever. the<br />
aJ1S\Ne r lies not in the world of fashion but it1 the realm<br />
of personal architectLu·e. The vvidd1 of a w:an's .necktie<br />
should relate to that ofhis jacket's lapels. which, in turn,<br />
are govctned by the size of the coat's shoulders. (See<br />
chapter 3, "Proportion: The Foundation of· Style.")<br />
Should a1nan be broad-shmddcrcd. a slightly wider necktie wi ll harmonize better with the jacket's<br />
ti-tUet proportions: if small-shoulderecl a na1-.r.ower necktie vvould be the liJ.ore flattering choice.<br />
Fashion should be accountable to a specific ·set of physica1 trademarks and not to some random.<br />
seasonally served-up set.of±ashioo Hashes.<br />
\tVith this. indiYidual i.zed app1 7 0ach, leac~:ning bo'w to dress vvell begi.ns to take on a certain<br />
logic, if oot clarity However. men intent upon improving their dressing skills are often<br />
stymied by the lack of access to intelligent and personaLized instruction. UnforwnateJy: no matter<br />
hovv sophisticated a store's merchandise, without a knowledg~ab le and experienced sales<br />
staff the right clothes have l-ittle chance of ending up 011 the right back in the righ t \(\.ray.<br />
Due to l.J.llStablc financing, debt-ridden balance sh~ets. or stocld1older pressures, many<br />
larger retailers have been discoLmlg~d from th iJli.Jng about the long term.· And with profits<br />
squeezed by increasing overheads.. sa.lcs training and service are the first to· suffer. Most retailers<br />
m·e reluctant to invest much in educating :a new hire. Although the exceptional retail eJ- or individual<br />
sales e.,~ecutive<br />
might take the initiative to lean1 about the history and traditions und.erlyi<br />
n.g fine rnenswe:;tr. he or she is not the norm. Nowadays. the distinguished salesperson is<br />
either promoted up to management or hired a,;vay by.a competitor.<br />
l'artiarhtrly at the top end, where expectations for professionalisn1 and superior service<br />
are justifiably h.ighcr, retail expertise has sunk to an all -time low. }vlost better-quality retailers<br />
have traded up to more expensive mer12handise, ceding almost all responsibility for the education<br />
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