8932658326593257

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suiting fabrics ::tnd fm·ni shings. By the time the heralded new colors finall y hi t the shelves. both the merchants and the masses \\'ere appropriate!) primed. The sheer pace of change in Fashion between the wars co mpelled the editorial world to exalt the hmv- to aspect of masculine style as in no other period in menswear before or a~Fte r. As ::1 result. a 111an 's complexion and his choice of clothes became an ongoing theme in each seaon's ·ryle presentation. Men were in ·rructed on how to incorporate colors such as to·wn browns and rustic gree ns into thcjr city wardrobes and encouraged to take personal advantage of less popular shades I ike pi.nk. lavender, and gold. Nm surprisingly. the period turned out the most colorfully clad 111ale in the twentieth century. not to mention the best dressed. U nfo rtLulatel)~ vVorld \~far I [ sidetracked the exuberance of the '''ealthy fashions of the thirties. This, Collovved by the gray Banncl conformity of the ~i Fties and the social upheavals of the sixties, left later generations of style-conscious males pretty rnuch on their own in divining 1:1.11 individual d othing palette. f n the early eighties, offshoots of several commercially succe."sfi..tl color books fo r '"'omen were broached for men. Unfortunately. their methodology was o tortuous in detail and demanding in time rhat most men decided to ignore their entreatie· of sartorial cnUgbtenment, resigning them ·elves to the predictable sa11ctuar}' of the dark blue or gray business rnantlc. T HE P OWER O F C O LOR P EX 0 Sll ljtief\\C l nl-h._ l ull~ l t'ltl t'llllitl' ttl h.tl rl Mtl tlilt trldllj; ttllll t'11,l l t\J~I h1f1•1U i nr$ liclrll#.!JIIi IJi tli1111Jtl~): i 0n~; tlhi lllulllr.\lttl tm lh~.~ ~ ~lt~brr.r l h u~ ,,(l tfln "Uil ti ll ~dtlt nt. .V.rt-:~ 1 lu,fr:...::nu\ wllh app.ciJ,trialc .."'iht'- HI lnltrlr• filr Utt' t.•-lH; l,ut$. nt~ tllr ~'" ',lthtt. 11tC·IIQ.jt!J VQ .ult tiUwk., pnrui~y tllll''" i.ollf 1-h w':t.) l1t1 lrl tlt~ ).UUc:th• 4lt~>W t1 •)r rn.ul\' ••t he~ a\l1Ti a14~. as J;UMtet. fQr .,.-uhanut,q O"l"ff•..nrt"' in h.u-~ ·11Ht .. J ~q "'-I..,Ctl"tl t ~ tf 1 ,.. •rce"'I;;ri~ '*"111··1t .iJOlthl tull ltoUII'Ol'IJirH>\l 1b lh•• tlilti~f!l:l lrall!ll •:nnh l) t'-1 uf ln.l:an lti~ nul u,,,ft tiMII iu Uit' c-nhlf,. 11f k!. Jt f,J~ ' ~ htrh lu t'\'l't') l.'.:l f(" tCf•tl'lllttU \l lir!ot cltPlt.~~ 1"' Cltti~~t.lfl Cat\• h• iirnd uubtNwn,:: Magazines keyed fashion co lot stories to d@rent complexions.
THE ABC SOFA PERSONAL COLOR STRATEGY 20 DRESSING TH.E b'£AN ecping in mind that the face is rhe destination to vvh:.ich one's artirQ should escort the b eholder's ;Jrtention, i-F too mucl1 or too 1 ittlc; repartee occLLr.s bet\i\'ccn it and the stu-rounding colbrs. the vie\~-re r 's eye is diverted and one:s personal. pi:ese.nt:Jtion is ·weakened. Tv.vo color techniques mu.stbe learned ifthe male'l'\comrnunication center is to be.assuredofoptimal ani marion and inAuence. The first involves the relationsbip betvvcen the co mple-~ i on aJ1d an outfit's level oF contrast. The colors of :;my given ensemble shoLJd exhibit the same degree of contrast as th ~Jt manifested by one's skin and hair tones.
Page 3 and 4: D USA$49-95 Canada '$74-95 ressingt
Page 5 and 6: • PERMANENT FASH ION THE PO\¥ER
Page 9 and 10: 4 DRESSING THE MAN Male adornment h
Page 11 and 12: Dressitlg,vell rests on two pillars
Page 13 and 14: 8 DR ESS I NfJ TH·E MAN of its sal
Page 15 and 16: favor could expect the victim to pr
Page 17 and 18: The second factor rcspon ·ible for
Page 19 and 20: mtmem with ji1slzio11 may wel'l str
Page 23: 8. DRE·ssrNG THE M AN exist benvee
Page 27 and 28: 22 DRESS 1 NG THE M AN lighter touc
Page 29 and 30: the rradition of augmenting one's f
Page 31 and 32: TREVOR: MEDIUM CONTRAST .........,.
Page 33 and 34: JOHN: MUTED COMPLEXION 28 Dl~ESSING
Page 35 and 36: ALEX: LIGHT BRIGHT AND BLOND norher
Page 38: AFRICAN AMERICAN: MEDIUM TO HIGH CO
Page 42 and 43: THE SUIT JACI
Page 44 and 45: The nant l·al-shouldcr suit ~ ilho
Page 46 and 47: 4J PROPORTION RELATIO N TO TH E ARM
Page 48 and 49: on his chest. the longer lapel line
Page 50 and 51: 45 PRO P O RTION Suit trousers shou
Page 52 and 53: PROPORTJON THE POCI
Page 54 and 55: PROPORTION AND BODY TYPE hether sho
Page 56 and 57: eadth. Thj.s includes the low-gorge
Page 58 and 59: appearance. O ne color from top to
Page 60 and 61: \ - should aYoid any lUlncce . ary
Page 62 and 63: INCORRECT FIT OF JACKET COLLAR ...
Page 64 and 65: "X" MEANS THE .JACKET IS TOO TIGHT.
Page 66: hole. the trousers' fork should fit
Page 71 and 72: LEFT: Prince Charles carries on the
Page 73 and 74: 68 DIH.SSiNC. TIT E l'Yif\ N with e
Page 75 and 76:
MIXING TWO DIFFERENT PATTERNS 70 Dl
Page 78 and 79:
1 MIXING THREE PATTERNS J on\'cntio
Page 80 and 81:
MIXING THREE PATTERNS OF THE SAME D
Page 82 and 83:
\·Vhc rcas rlw LlLU-\.C of \\'ind,
Page 85 and 86:
garment or ensemble that aA-"ord~ ~
Page 87 and 88:
DR'ESSTNG THE Mi\.N the man's fLu·
Page 89 and 90:
DRESSING TH!. MAN THE SINGLE-BREAST
Page 91 and 92:
SUIT JACJ(ET DETAILING SUIT jACKET
Page 93 and 94:
Unless indicated, all suitings are
Page 95 and 96:
GRAY Pick-AND-PICK FAWN G LEN PLAID
Page 97 and 98:
JACKET VENTS Vents hme a military h
Page 99 and 100:
Uc'.-, lack of intl're~t. ~ide -ven
Page 101 and 102:
THE SUIT TROUSER 1e most fortuitous
Page 103 and 104:
THE STRIPED SUIT Of all men's swnng
Page 105 and 106:
thJn the glen plaid's multiline~ll.
Page 107 and 108:
GA B ARDINE For rhe ulti mate in I
Page 111 and 112:
In t he period follmving \\/orld vV
Page 113:
13y the latter part ol=-the t\\ ent
Page 116 and 117:
tweed jacket's edge-stitching"' ith
Page 118 and 119:
THE BLAZER ust a.~ the Fancy-b:::tc
Page 120 and 121:
Judging the correct number of butto
Page 122 and 123:
Along vvith tweed . ±1annel became
Page 124 and 125:
almost every day for class. it's li
Page 126 and 127:
WITH THOUGHT S OF SU MMER rnrhincl,
Page 128 and 129:
THE ODD WAISTCOAT t her th
Page 131 and 132:
Throughout most oF the nineteenth c
Page 133 and 134:
Founder qf'Black enterprise magazin
Page 135 and 136:
ON THE FACE OF THINGS S I NG Mrl N
Page 137 and 138:
THE SPRE1\D COLLAR lh .. ' '-pn.'.l
Page 139 and 140:
TilE I~OUNDED COLL 1~ "·ulbr shitt
Page 141 and 142:
I)l.NNED COLLARS dr\~s~ ~hw t t one
Page 143:
- ----- the \ i"ion .md g~Jt m1s uf
Page 147 and 148:
0PCrt·WF".AVE l IOHTWtiCHr BLUE O>
Page 149 and 150:
I --- --- -- -- DR.ESS Sl-1 I fZT M
Page 151 and 152:
- - -- ---- S I-1 I J~T )R f." S"'
Page 153 and 154:
.. DRESSING TI-IE 1-IAND hi n culT
Page 155:
plincd undcr~tatCJih.~nr mdr w,unll
Page 159 and 160:
DRE5.SI1\ G Tllf. hi~~ impbc.1ble r
Page 162 and 163:
- -- \\\...Jdm~ uc-" 111 n~rram eir
Page 165 and 166:
llcr..: I >eau \chc son rL·h\: un
Page 167 and 168:
DRhSI~G 1Hf 1\I!\N -rl t E p LA 1 D
Page 169 and 170:
-- - - l) I~ I NTE D N E~C K\\'EJ\R
Page 172 and 173:
-- TilE PAJ..,l£1 lr7lt1on .md It'
Page 174 and 175:
---- end',, ho'~ "h.ll! bo" riC>d u
Page 176 and 177:
Ph1l1ppe N lti t s!Jo" u~ hu Galltc
Page 178:
------------ - 1-H E F 0 UR-I 1 - H
Page 181 and 182:
I - - DR£. t>Sl N l• TH.Fti!AN T
Page 185 and 186:
1 ht! c' ~lot' nnd p:Htt.·rn of .1
Page 187 and 188:
THIS PAGE Saclul Guitr)' in silk dr
Page 189:
- I DRE '~I" G r rJ E. .'Ill.A •
Page 192 and 193:
\' lllClltl 111cd prL\ IOU•·d\ t
Page 194 and 195:
- ---- rh the ell~l Jf th~ 19-!0~ l
Page 197 and 198:
flJH \ ,'i l t-:G T JI r l\1A RIGHT
Page 199:
\. , llh II l /,1
Page 202 and 203:
---~ STEPS IN TIME hl· louk pf 11H
Page 204:
---- --------- I C) I f OOT DI C:(H
Page 207 and 208:
--- -- - - D.-\.rs~JNG nu: ;\I' N ,
Page 209 and 210:
- -- -~--- -- D.Rt lNf; l HI M ...
Page 211 and 212:
------- - From t"r or(einal prim ad
Page 213 and 214:
i fu t:ulu f lUnd t ht; r\ , t Gil(
Page 215 and 216:
---- -- DRl"SSTNG Tflf M.A.-.: I T
Page 217 and 218:
- DRI ,_:. f Nu HH ~\1" .. -- nff~
Page 219 and 220:
I --- -- I DR r s., I SG TH! MAN Fa
Page 221:
11 L I) RE SS SL IPP ER Its ~~~1rd
Page 226 and 227:
\ p&tt i breast pocket mu d~(~11ed
Page 228 and 229:
----- \\ lll[t: ha11dker.chicf utte
Page 230 and 231:
-----------------------------------
Page 232 and 233:
219 OPPOSITE TOP: Contrast trxtun:s
Page 234 and 235:
- - ~-------- BELTS AND BRACES _, u
Page 236:
m. 11 n ple.lt' 'll9-''-"'llders .'
Page 239 and 240:
·rl l E DRESS BELT -1 he d111iL·e
Page 241:
f ---- C U F F LI N KS AND DRESS J
Page 244:
----~- ---- THE Bl1LITl>NNIERE n JX
Page 248 and 249:
0 THE DRU5 VIAJS:TCOAT" S POUlTS 5H
Page 250 and 251:
THE FlJLL-DiliSS \¥AISTC0 1\T 1 or
Page 252 and 253:
- ---- ------ I • • • • FOR
Page 254 and 255:
J'R .!.t I ' • • / -- - y - / ,
Page 257 and 258:
':llt:c\ c bunons, "hich C1J1 cuher
Page 259 and 260:
--~- Tl-I E I3LAC J(-TI E \\fA I. T
Page 261 and 262:
- --- FORJ\!tAl __ \1\IEJ\FZ TRo·u
Page 263 and 264:
--- Tire autht'lltic \Vindsor kuor
Page 265 and 266:
Dn1 s.• 1 N~ THE Milt\ he '' hi t
Page 269 and 270:
In 1 h~,; t ll'
Page 271 and 272:
--- ------ ----- Bu!-incss cas.ual
Page 273:
I "·JI'drt)bc~ - -~ ~,,,tthing tht
Page 276 and 277:
ln\.: ~Almplc of~·\oh mg 'lh.·h .
Page 278 and 279:
--------- ----~--- 1rh ~{ mt~-.rt d
Page 281 and 282:
Hfa.·k Cci$}1111fl't' tlll'lft'lh'
Page 283 and 284:
I In lhl' ru ... h Ill expand th ..
Page 286 and 287:
flh{L .... tJ of ...,,plu,rKah:..-d
Page 288:
pt'lhhL-J hkc matt~' fini ... ht•
Page 291 and 292:
-,-Q - '' DRJ. )JNG Ttl£ M .\,, \
Page 293 and 294:
\ .Hit> Dnr ....-51 ,.u rru M 1 ...
Page 295 and 296:
IJ R I \ S I ..; (,, llfl \J\r\ ~ln
Page 297 and 298:
- .!·-1 DRL ... ~(; ffH ;\1 ~" 1r
Page 299 and 300:
1. h :~h ll't uJstl·ad of st4lrchc
Page 301 and 302:
~I • l >.;c. HI AI P~> I mo N •
Page 303 and 304:
)nr '"Nl. fU M'\ N II \1 l)W • n
Page 305:
) Iu:s l.l'H .• ur:~I\V rt·n~h·
Page 308 and 309:
'f t-:.r1 h'R.n .\ J.rrk gtm MlJ.Jl
Page 310 and 311:
------ - - l't1 "R llC\'l ·\n.urtt
Page 312 and 313:
'C T• H T\\'l:£1'' Twe-."\\c. tn
Page 314 and 315:
H { H ~~ \ rnl! C ' oft utislmy: lc
Page 316 and 317:
(.:. ) l(l ' brq!hr ~ rkt d r.~nn d
Page 318 and 319:
-- ----~ \\ 1"'-![!-,(llt t:~ 1 r .
Page 321:
Grntifrtl acktro" kdgmrnt Is madt t
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