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on his chest. the longer lapel line emphasizing<br />
,·crticality. As Coop's lm,er-sitting peaked<br />
bpds illustrate. the taller man's lapel notches<br />
GU1 rest a bit lmver in the d1e t area, condensing<br />
the upper bodis length 'IYhilc extending<br />
it~<br />
breadth. 1\.vem:y years ago. this clement of<br />
rhc coat's design rarely came into question.<br />
I lowever. once again, \VhiJe i njcctlng more<br />
svvagger into the conventional man -tailored<br />
jacket Armani and other· lovvcred irs lapel<br />
43<br />
PROPORTION<br />
gorges along with its waistline. loosening un<br />
t..: \.. L,.l c i<br />
both its classic demeanor and it· hold on stylish<br />
longcYi ry.<br />
In order for a buttoned suit jacket's<br />
··v" opening to smooth!)' escotT rhe Yie\\'er's<br />
ere LIP\\';lJ'd toward the EKe. the jacket's lapels<br />
c.md the neckrie's width shOLdd harmonize.<br />
~ i nee the bread:tb of the jacket's shoulder<br />
gu·idcs its lapel width. a broad-shouldered<br />
man will nattlrally regLtiJ·e a -fLlllcr lapel For<br />
proper balance. Like the singlc-bt·eastcd<br />
norchc!' on Gary Cooper's three-button (sec<br />
page 38) or on Dean Acheson's n,·o-burton<br />
coar (sec page 39 ). the single-breasted lapel<br />
should cover between !\Yo-fifths to th rcefi<br />
frhs of the d istancc bet\Yecn the jacket's<br />
chest and shoulder line. \\'hich usual!}· results<br />
in the average notch lapel measuring from<br />
33/s inches to -+ 1 .4 inches in '"·idth.<br />
\.Vhile peaked lapels need more<br />
breadth to accommodate their upsweep<br />
design, the) should nor be so broad as to<br />
become conspicuous, such as those gracing<br />
Doug Jr.'s chest (~cc page 38). ln the itwariably<br />
dapper \lr. Fairbanks's case, his dramatic<br />
shaped lapd::. fall more into the arena<br />
of period stde than of cle:L"sic taste.<br />
Gar)' Cooper's lower~sitting lapels play down. his height.
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