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REMITTANCES<br />

HOMEBOUND BARGAINS<br />

For Cubans who travel back and forth between Miami and<br />

their island home, Ño Que Barato has become an institution<br />

By Ariana H. Reguant<br />

Photo by Matias J. Ocner<br />

Shoppers hunt for deals at Ño Que Barato in Miami's Hialeah neighborhood<br />

At the start of every school year, families<br />

line up outside the studios of America<br />

TV––a popular local Spanish-language<br />

television station in a Miami suburb––to<br />

receive a backpack filled with school<br />

supplies, courtesy of Ño Que Barato.<br />

Hundreds of children are served, and<br />

every immigrant home knows storeowner<br />

Serafín Blanco gives back to the community.<br />

Indeed, Ño Que Barato is more than<br />

a business.<br />

Blanco, a Cuban immigrant, founded<br />

Ño in 1996 to cater to the newly arrived<br />

balseros who, unlike earlier migrant<br />

cohorts, remained in close communication<br />

with their families on the island.<br />

Some 20,000 immigrant visas were being<br />

granted every year to Cubans and, by the<br />

end of the decade, both Cuba and the<br />

U.S. had eliminated travel restrictions for<br />

Cuban-Americans returning for family<br />

visits. This led to a growing consumer base<br />

for underpriced clothes, shoes, and plastic<br />

household wares that could be transported<br />

in suitcases.<br />

Known for his sense of humor, Blanco<br />

came up with a business name that was<br />

a stroke of genius. “Ño” is shorthand for<br />

a colloquial swear word that denotes surprise.<br />

The entire expression, Ño Que Barato,<br />

could be translated as “Wow, that’s cheap.”<br />

The motto quickly stuck. As the store’s<br />

advertisements proclaim, “the name says<br />

it all.” In addition, the candid promotions<br />

on local TV, spoken directly to the camera<br />

by program anchors, local celebrities, or<br />

Blanco himself, convey proximity and familiarity,<br />

as in “I am one of you.” Any day<br />

of the week, people flock in to buy—by<br />

the dozen and by the pound.<br />

Located in an industrial area of<br />

West Hialeah outside of Miami, Ño Que<br />

Barato functions like a department store.<br />

The large warehouse space, lacking in<br />

air-conditioning, is filled with racks of<br />

cheap clothing and shoes for men, women,<br />

and children, including school and work<br />

uniforms, guayaberas, lingerie, baptismal<br />

baby robes, and beddings. At Ño, one can<br />

also find religious objects, USB drives,<br />

unlocked cell phones, perfumes, watches,<br />

mosquito netting for beds, hand fans, and<br />

everything else conceivably useful in Cuba.<br />

Along the walls, independent sellers rent<br />

counter space with specialty services and<br />

merchandise, like optic and jewelry shops.<br />

On the floor, the sales staff is older, much<br />

like the average shopper.<br />

A life-size statue of San Lázaro, also<br />

known as Babalú Ayé in Afro-Cuban<br />

religions, greets the public and guards the<br />

store. San Lázaro—St. Lazarus—was an<br />

old beggar who suffered from leprosy and<br />

was saved by Jesus in the New Testament;<br />

as they exit the store, many patrons leave<br />

spare change at his feet as a sign of respect<br />

and devotion. As Babalú Ayé, however,<br />

he experienced a rebirth and became a<br />

righteous ruler who punished humans for<br />

their transgressions.<br />

When thieves broke into Ño Que<br />

Barato last year, they might have thought<br />

they could escape the saint’s wrathful<br />

watch. Police caught them in the act, and<br />

one who ran was later found unconscious<br />

inside a hot industrial dryer in the laundromat<br />

next door. At Ño Que Barato, staff<br />

and clients expressed relief, knowing well<br />

that under San Lázaro’s watch, no bad<br />

deed goes unpunished—and no good one<br />

goes unrewarded. H<br />

28 CUBATRADE MARCH 2017

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