REMITTANCES HOMEBOUND BARGAINS For Cubans who travel back and forth between Miami and their island home, Ño Que Barato has become an institution By Ariana H. Reguant Photo by Matias J. Ocner Shoppers hunt for deals at Ño Que Barato in Miami's Hialeah neighborhood At the start of every school year, families line up outside the studios of America TV––a popular local Spanish-language television station in a Miami suburb––to receive a backpack filled with school supplies, courtesy of Ño Que Barato. Hundreds of children are served, and every immigrant home knows storeowner Serafín Blanco gives back to the community. Indeed, Ño Que Barato is more than a business. Blanco, a Cuban immigrant, founded Ño in 1996 to cater to the newly arrived balseros who, unlike earlier migrant cohorts, remained in close communication with their families on the island. Some 20,000 immigrant visas were being granted every year to Cubans and, by the end of the decade, both Cuba and the U.S. had eliminated travel restrictions for Cuban-Americans returning for family visits. This led to a growing consumer base for underpriced clothes, shoes, and plastic household wares that could be transported in suitcases. Known for his sense of humor, Blanco came up with a business name that was a stroke of genius. “Ño” is shorthand for a colloquial swear word that denotes surprise. The entire expression, Ño Que Barato, could be translated as “Wow, that’s cheap.” The motto quickly stuck. As the store’s advertisements proclaim, “the name says it all.” In addition, the candid promotions on local TV, spoken directly to the camera by program anchors, local celebrities, or Blanco himself, convey proximity and familiarity, as in “I am one of you.” Any day of the week, people flock in to buy—by the dozen and by the pound. Located in an industrial area of West Hialeah outside of Miami, Ño Que Barato functions like a department store. The large warehouse space, lacking in air-conditioning, is filled with racks of cheap clothing and shoes for men, women, and children, including school and work uniforms, guayaberas, lingerie, baptismal baby robes, and beddings. At Ño, one can also find religious objects, USB drives, unlocked cell phones, perfumes, watches, mosquito netting for beds, hand fans, and everything else conceivably useful in Cuba. Along the walls, independent sellers rent counter space with specialty services and merchandise, like optic and jewelry shops. On the floor, the sales staff is older, much like the average shopper. A life-size statue of San Lázaro, also known as Babalú Ayé in Afro-Cuban religions, greets the public and guards the store. San Lázaro—St. Lazarus—was an old beggar who suffered from leprosy and was saved by Jesus in the New Testament; as they exit the store, many patrons leave spare change at his feet as a sign of respect and devotion. As Babalú Ayé, however, he experienced a rebirth and became a righteous ruler who punished humans for their transgressions. When thieves broke into Ño Que Barato last year, they might have thought they could escape the saint’s wrathful watch. Police caught them in the act, and one who ran was later found unconscious inside a hot industrial dryer in the laundromat next door. At Ño Que Barato, staff and clients expressed relief, knowing well that under San Lázaro’s watch, no bad deed goes unpunished—and no good one goes unrewarded. H 28 CUBATRADE MARCH 2017
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