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Men's Fashion Week: Is LA Ready? - California Apparel News

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Burton Snowboards has been one of the recession’s<br />

success stories—experiencing several years<br />

of financial growth and even paying out bonuses<br />

to its employees over the last two years. While<br />

this might have made some companies cocky or<br />

complacent, Burton is heeding the message that<br />

has resounded loud and clear during this recession:<br />

Focus on your core business or, ultimately,<br />

pay the price.<br />

To that end, it recently announced a company<br />

realignment that will see the relocation and downsizing<br />

of its Analog brand, currently based in<br />

Southern <strong>California</strong>. Analog will return to its roots<br />

of being a pure snowboarding brand and will move<br />

back to its original home in Burlington, Vt. Analog<br />

has a deep heritage in snowboarding, from the time<br />

when Greg Dacyshyn, Burton’s chief creative officer,<br />

and the late Jeffy Anderson, team rider, created<br />

the brand. Analog will now revert to being a<br />

winter-only brand.<br />

Analog was created in 1999 as a more progressive,<br />

style-conscious outerwear collection, led by<br />

a handful of top pros at the time, including Anderson,<br />

Trevor Andrew and Gigi Ruf. Since then,<br />

Analog continued to drive many of snowboarding’s<br />

outerwear style trends. In 2003, Analog added a<br />

streetwear component to its line, followed by surf<br />

apparel, a surf team and an Analog skate platform.<br />

Burton will ultimately transition out of Analog<br />

surf and skate apparel by next fall, although this<br />

apparel will be shipped through spring/summer of<br />

2013 and will be marketed and supported. The new<br />

Analog will only design and distribute Analog out-<br />

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS November 2–8, 2012<br />

SuRF REPORt<br />

Burton Realigns Analog for Snow, Moves Brand to Vt.<br />

By Deirdre Newman Contributing Writer<br />

FMNC Continued from page 1<br />

Sunday through Tuesday. It might have been the<br />

reason there were more out-of-state buyers—including<br />

those from Oregon, Washington, Arizona<br />

and Idaho—than normal. There was even one<br />

buyer from Dubai.<br />

The airy space provided the perfect setting for<br />

the better women’s and contemporary lines of<br />

merchandise. With a diverse selection of apparel<br />

and accessories, there was an overall positive experience<br />

for retailers and representatives alike.<br />

That was the case for designer Julio Santiago,<br />

who two years ago introduced his Santiago Knits<br />

line, made for the weekend vacationer or the world<br />

traveler at heart. All his garments and handbags are<br />

made of fine linen and bamboo fabrics imported<br />

from Italy but manufactured in Los Angeles.<br />

Charlie Pomkyal, Santiago’s sales and marketing<br />

representative, said he got positive feedback<br />

for his first appearance at the show. He saw a<br />

number of orders with existing and new accounts.<br />

Overall, having the opportunity to debut the line in<br />

a warm and open environment, rather than a hotel<br />

setup, proved to be a good fit for showcasing the<br />

resort-inspired clothing.<br />

For designer Vanessa Vallarino, it has been a<br />

brief seven months since she introduced her selfnamed<br />

line. As a first timer at the show, she was<br />

realistic about how many orders and note taking<br />

were going to be made.<br />

The Spring/Summer 2013 collection consists<br />

of pastel-colored, hand-dyed and hand-painted<br />

garments that can be worn in multiple ways. They<br />

are versatile, with shirts that can be worked from<br />

front to back. There are different lengths and angle<br />

constructions for skirts. Basic tops wholesale for<br />

$15 and go up to $60 for jackets.<br />

“Our purpose is to tweak a modern silhouette<br />

where it is still contemporary but new—where<br />

art meets fashion with structure and architecturalinspired<br />

elements. Everything serves a function,”<br />

she said.<br />

Vallarino’s main objective was to receive feedback<br />

and expose her brand. “We are really new,<br />

so we did not expect much as far as orders. But<br />

we received really amazing feedback. What we are<br />

doing is daring, and it may take a minute to find a<br />

erwear and tech apparel, which will be known as<br />

ATF, along with basics.<br />

The Analog snow team—made up of Danny<br />

Davis, Mikkel Bang and Zak Hale—will continue<br />

on as Analog riders. For the Analog surf and skate<br />

teams, Burton will work with the team riders individually<br />

on an exit strategy to transition them out<br />

of the brand.<br />

Other aspects of the company-wide realignment<br />

include Burton’s Gravis brand ultimately moving<br />

its headquarters to Tokyo and being solely distributed<br />

in Asian markets that sell lifestyle shoes and<br />

bags; the development of protective headwear under<br />

the Anon brand name; and transitioning out<br />

of the company’s program brands (Foursquare,<br />

Forum and Special Blend). Burton will continue<br />

to offer its RED helmets on a limited basis, but<br />

the bulk of helmet and optics product lines will be<br />

combined under the Anon brand.<br />

Conversely, one <strong>California</strong> brand has been<br />

saved. Burton’s Channel <strong>Is</strong>lands brand, acquired<br />

in 2006, will not be affected and will continue to<br />

design, develop and manufacture best-in-class surf<br />

hardgoods products out of Carpinteria, Calif. Burton<br />

senior management are content with their relationship<br />

to Channel <strong>Is</strong>lands. Burton acquired this<br />

brand in 2006, when it was called Channel <strong>Is</strong>lands<br />

Surfboards, after founder and CEO Jake Burton<br />

forged an agreement with owner Al Merrick over<br />

their similar mindset and passion for their respective<br />

sports. They shared a vision of putting the sport<br />

of surfing in the hands of the team athletes and for<br />

the product development.<br />

tRAdE ShOW REPORt<br />

FIRST TIMERS: Owner Julio Santiago<br />

and sales representative Charlie<br />

Pomykal of Santiago Knits were at<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> Market Northern <strong>California</strong> for<br />

the first time.<br />

niche market, but the people who understand what<br />

we are doing love it,” she said.<br />

Exploring the specialty market is familiar for<br />

Nataya, a Los Angeles–based line that offers a romantic<br />

nod to “The Great Gatsby” and the Roaring<br />

Twenties. The dreamscape-inspired garments<br />

have a loyal following.<br />

“Although some customers merely browse the<br />

collection, they appreciate the touch and feel of our<br />

pieces. We have been around for over 15 years, so<br />

our existing customers always return,” said sales<br />

representative Sharon Alcazar.<br />

At this show, Alcazar said there was a combination<br />

of really good orders and some note takers.<br />

“I think store owners are taking into consideration<br />

what they already have in store, so they are a bit<br />

pickier in the ordering process,” Alcazar said.<br />

However, this season proved a promising one<br />

for Nataya. The line introduced a mix of its higherpriced<br />

collection with a lower-priced, youth-based,<br />

bohemian collection called “Age of Love.”<br />

USA sells<br />

For Neetu Malik—whose showroom in the<br />

Gerry Building in Los Angeles represents better<br />

and updated lines such as Bodil, Cynthia Ashby,<br />

Itemz, Kedem Sasson, M Square, Ivey Abitz and<br />

One of the key factors that led Burton senior<br />

management to these realignment decisions, according<br />

to a press release issued by the company, is<br />

the success of Burton’s entry on a year-round basis<br />

into the apparel and bag/pack business, which has<br />

grown significantly in all seasons. The message<br />

Burton received from the marketplace is that for<br />

long-term success, this is the direction the company<br />

should be pursuing, along with its core hardgoods<br />

and outerwear business.<br />

Burton has already made reinvesting in the company<br />

a priority, making significant investments recently<br />

in its headquarters and infrastructure, including<br />

acquiring the building next door to its Vermont<br />

headquarters, where the company built Craig’s, a<br />

10,000-square-foot R&D and prototype facility,<br />

and Area 13, a 6,000-square-foot Burton/Anon/<br />

Analog wholesale showroom. Craig’s (named after<br />

the late Craig Kelly, a professional snowboarder<br />

who was known as the godfather of freeriding) is<br />

known as the most advanced and sophisticated<br />

snowboard-prototype facility in the world, according<br />

to the press release. Ideas are conceived, built<br />

and on snow in less than 24 hours. Area 13 is Burton’s<br />

marquee showroom, where retailers form all<br />

over the world can come to Vermont to see future<br />

product lines.<br />

Burton Snowboards is privately held and owned<br />

by Burton and his wife, company President Donna<br />

Carpenter. Burton founded the company in 1977<br />

out of his Vermont barn. In addition to its headquarters<br />

in Vermont, Burton has offices in Austria,<br />

Japan, Australia and <strong>California</strong>. ●<br />

Amy Brill—domestically<br />

produced goods were hot.<br />

Six of her seven lines are<br />

made in the United States.<br />

“We have been returning<br />

to FMNC for nearly 20<br />

years now, and I would<br />

say eight out of 10 buyers<br />

want to buy garments produced<br />

and manufactured<br />

in the U.S.,” she said.<br />

Malik had a great response<br />

from returning<br />

accounts, as orders were<br />

taken for goods whose<br />

wholesale price points averaged<br />

$69 to $149.<br />

For father-and-son duo<br />

Leo and David Schnitzer,<br />

the show has always been<br />

a home base for their mobile showroom. Based<br />

out of Los Angeles, the family business has been<br />

on the road for at least 57 years now, but it used<br />

to have a showroom at the <strong>California</strong> Market<br />

Center.<br />

This market is generally good for the Schnitzer<br />

family, which is well-known in the area. “We have<br />

good apparel lines—Alison Sheri, Bala Bala,<br />

Bali Batiks, Bleu Bayou and Produce Co.—<br />

some of which are resort and more seasonal and<br />

others that are year-round. So, we carry a variety,<br />

and our customers who know us and our line always<br />

return,” David<br />

Schnitzer said.<br />

CMC CENTRIC: Rep et Trois<br />

Showroom, located in the<br />

<strong>California</strong> Market Center in Los<br />

Angeles, was showing its better<br />

women’s apparel line, Miilla.<br />

There’s more<br />

on <strong>Apparel</strong><strong>News</strong>.net<br />

The story continues at<br />

<strong>Apparel</strong><strong>News</strong>.net.<br />

Business was bustling<br />

with traffic for<br />

Luna Luz Showroom,<br />

based in the<br />

<strong>California</strong> Market<br />

Center. Sales repre-<br />

sentative Susan Burnett, who has been attending<br />

the show for years, had Holiday 2012 and Spring<br />

2013 merchandise wholesaling for $30 to $150.<br />

“I absolutely love the show. Buyers from all over<br />

the region attend the show—Seattle, Oregon, and<br />

Dallas,” Burnett said. “I attribute the growth of my<br />

showroom largely to this specific show.” ●<br />

<strong>Apparel</strong> <strong>News</strong> Group<br />

1944-2012<br />

Sixty-eight years of news,<br />

fashion and information<br />

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