Men's Fashion Week: Is LA Ready? - California Apparel News

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Burton Snowboards has been one of the recession’s success stories—experiencing several years of financial growth and even paying out bonuses to its employees over the last two years. While this might have made some companies cocky or complacent, Burton is heeding the message that has resounded loud and clear during this recession: Focus on your core business or, ultimately, pay the price. To that end, it recently announced a company realignment that will see the relocation and downsizing of its Analog brand, currently based in Southern California. Analog will return to its roots of being a pure snowboarding brand and will move back to its original home in Burlington, Vt. Analog has a deep heritage in snowboarding, from the time when Greg Dacyshyn, Burton’s chief creative officer, and the late Jeffy Anderson, team rider, created the brand. Analog will now revert to being a winter-only brand. Analog was created in 1999 as a more progressive, style-conscious outerwear collection, led by a handful of top pros at the time, including Anderson, Trevor Andrew and Gigi Ruf. Since then, Analog continued to drive many of snowboarding’s outerwear style trends. In 2003, Analog added a streetwear component to its line, followed by surf apparel, a surf team and an Analog skate platform. Burton will ultimately transition out of Analog surf and skate apparel by next fall, although this apparel will be shipped through spring/summer of 2013 and will be marketed and supported. The new Analog will only design and distribute Analog out- 6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS November 2–8, 2012 SuRF REPORt Burton Realigns Analog for Snow, Moves Brand to Vt. By Deirdre Newman Contributing Writer FMNC Continued from page 1 Sunday through Tuesday. It might have been the reason there were more out-of-state buyers—including those from Oregon, Washington, Arizona and Idaho—than normal. There was even one buyer from Dubai. The airy space provided the perfect setting for the better women’s and contemporary lines of merchandise. With a diverse selection of apparel and accessories, there was an overall positive experience for retailers and representatives alike. That was the case for designer Julio Santiago, who two years ago introduced his Santiago Knits line, made for the weekend vacationer or the world traveler at heart. All his garments and handbags are made of fine linen and bamboo fabrics imported from Italy but manufactured in Los Angeles. Charlie Pomkyal, Santiago’s sales and marketing representative, said he got positive feedback for his first appearance at the show. He saw a number of orders with existing and new accounts. Overall, having the opportunity to debut the line in a warm and open environment, rather than a hotel setup, proved to be a good fit for showcasing the resort-inspired clothing. For designer Vanessa Vallarino, it has been a brief seven months since she introduced her selfnamed line. As a first timer at the show, she was realistic about how many orders and note taking were going to be made. The Spring/Summer 2013 collection consists of pastel-colored, hand-dyed and hand-painted garments that can be worn in multiple ways. They are versatile, with shirts that can be worked from front to back. There are different lengths and angle constructions for skirts. Basic tops wholesale for $15 and go up to $60 for jackets. “Our purpose is to tweak a modern silhouette where it is still contemporary but new—where art meets fashion with structure and architecturalinspired elements. Everything serves a function,” she said. Vallarino’s main objective was to receive feedback and expose her brand. “We are really new, so we did not expect much as far as orders. But we received really amazing feedback. What we are doing is daring, and it may take a minute to find a erwear and tech apparel, which will be known as ATF, along with basics. The Analog snow team—made up of Danny Davis, Mikkel Bang and Zak Hale—will continue on as Analog riders. For the Analog surf and skate teams, Burton will work with the team riders individually on an exit strategy to transition them out of the brand. Other aspects of the company-wide realignment include Burton’s Gravis brand ultimately moving its headquarters to Tokyo and being solely distributed in Asian markets that sell lifestyle shoes and bags; the development of protective headwear under the Anon brand name; and transitioning out of the company’s program brands (Foursquare, Forum and Special Blend). Burton will continue to offer its RED helmets on a limited basis, but the bulk of helmet and optics product lines will be combined under the Anon brand. Conversely, one California brand has been saved. Burton’s Channel Islands brand, acquired in 2006, will not be affected and will continue to design, develop and manufacture best-in-class surf hardgoods products out of Carpinteria, Calif. Burton senior management are content with their relationship to Channel Islands. Burton acquired this brand in 2006, when it was called Channel Islands Surfboards, after founder and CEO Jake Burton forged an agreement with owner Al Merrick over their similar mindset and passion for their respective sports. They shared a vision of putting the sport of surfing in the hands of the team athletes and for the product development. tRAdE ShOW REPORt FIRST TIMERS: Owner Julio Santiago and sales representative Charlie Pomykal of Santiago Knits were at Fashion Market Northern California for the first time. niche market, but the people who understand what we are doing love it,” she said. Exploring the specialty market is familiar for Nataya, a Los Angeles–based line that offers a romantic nod to “The Great Gatsby” and the Roaring Twenties. The dreamscape-inspired garments have a loyal following. “Although some customers merely browse the collection, they appreciate the touch and feel of our pieces. We have been around for over 15 years, so our existing customers always return,” said sales representative Sharon Alcazar. At this show, Alcazar said there was a combination of really good orders and some note takers. “I think store owners are taking into consideration what they already have in store, so they are a bit pickier in the ordering process,” Alcazar said. However, this season proved a promising one for Nataya. The line introduced a mix of its higherpriced collection with a lower-priced, youth-based, bohemian collection called “Age of Love.” USA sells For Neetu Malik—whose showroom in the Gerry Building in Los Angeles represents better and updated lines such as Bodil, Cynthia Ashby, Itemz, Kedem Sasson, M Square, Ivey Abitz and One of the key factors that led Burton senior management to these realignment decisions, according to a press release issued by the company, is the success of Burton’s entry on a year-round basis into the apparel and bag/pack business, which has grown significantly in all seasons. The message Burton received from the marketplace is that for long-term success, this is the direction the company should be pursuing, along with its core hardgoods and outerwear business. Burton has already made reinvesting in the company a priority, making significant investments recently in its headquarters and infrastructure, including acquiring the building next door to its Vermont headquarters, where the company built Craig’s, a 10,000-square-foot R&D and prototype facility, and Area 13, a 6,000-square-foot Burton/Anon/ Analog wholesale showroom. Craig’s (named after the late Craig Kelly, a professional snowboarder who was known as the godfather of freeriding) is known as the most advanced and sophisticated snowboard-prototype facility in the world, according to the press release. Ideas are conceived, built and on snow in less than 24 hours. Area 13 is Burton’s marquee showroom, where retailers form all over the world can come to Vermont to see future product lines. Burton Snowboards is privately held and owned by Burton and his wife, company President Donna Carpenter. Burton founded the company in 1977 out of his Vermont barn. In addition to its headquarters in Vermont, Burton has offices in Austria, Japan, Australia and California. ● Amy Brill—domestically produced goods were hot. Six of her seven lines are made in the United States. “We have been returning to FMNC for nearly 20 years now, and I would say eight out of 10 buyers want to buy garments produced and manufactured in the U.S.,” she said. Malik had a great response from returning accounts, as orders were taken for goods whose wholesale price points averaged $69 to $149. For father-and-son duo Leo and David Schnitzer, the show has always been a home base for their mobile showroom. Based out of Los Angeles, the family business has been on the road for at least 57 years now, but it used to have a showroom at the California Market Center. This market is generally good for the Schnitzer family, which is well-known in the area. “We have good apparel lines—Alison Sheri, Bala Bala, Bali Batiks, Bleu Bayou and Produce Co.— some of which are resort and more seasonal and others that are year-round. So, we carry a variety, and our customers who know us and our line always return,” David Schnitzer said. CMC CENTRIC: Rep et Trois Showroom, located in the California Market Center in Los Angeles, was showing its better women’s apparel line, Miilla. There’s more on ApparelNews.net The story continues at ApparelNews.net. Business was bustling with traffic for Luna Luz Showroom, based in the California Market Center. Sales representative Susan Burnett, who has been attending the show for years, had Holiday 2012 and Spring 2013 merchandise wholesaling for $30 to $150. “I absolutely love the show. Buyers from all over the region attend the show—Seattle, Oregon, and Dallas,” Burnett said. “I attribute the growth of my showroom largely to this specific show.” ● Apparel News Group 1944-2012 Sixty-eight years of news, fashion and information ExECuTIvE EdIToR ALISON A. NIEDER FaShIoN EdIToR N. jAyNE SEwARD SENIoR EdIToR DEbORAh bELgum RETaIl EdIToR ANDREw ASch MaNuFaCTuRINg/TEChNology EdIToR SARAh wOLfSON EdIToRIal MaNagER jOhN IRwIN CoNTRIbuTINg wRITERS RhEA cORtAD0 ELIzAbEth hAyES DEIRDRE NEwmAN yO NOguchI CoNTRIbuTINg phoTogRaphERS bEN cOpE, vOLkER cORELL, jOhN EckmIER, tIm REgAS, fELIx SALzmAN wEbMaSTER tOm gApEN wEb pRoduCTIoN IAN bRAmLEtt zukE OShIRO mAchIkO yASuDA SoCIal MEdIa CooRdINaToR jENN kOLu CREaTIvE MaRkETINg dIRECToR LOuISE DAmbERg dIRECToR oF SalES aNd MaRkETINg tERRy mARtINEz aCCouNT ExECuTIvES DANIELLA pLAtt Amy vALENcIA aCCouNT MaNagERS LyNNE kASch mARION mEtcALf SalES & MaRkETINg CooRdINaToR bIANcA wEStcOtt SalES aSSISTaNT ALLy NOEL ClaSSIFIEd SENIoR aCCouNT ExECuTIvE jENN kOLu ClaSSIFIEd aCCouNT ExECuTIvES zENNy R. kAtIgbAk jEffERy yOuNgER ClaSSIFIEd aCCouNTINg mARILOu DELA cRuz SERvICE dIRECToRy aCCouNT ExECuTIvE juNE ESpINO pRoduCTIoN MaNagER kENDALL IN aRT dIRECToR DOt wILtzER pRoduCTIoN aRTIST jOhN fREEmAN fISh phoTo EdIToR jOhN uRquIzA CoNTRollER jIm pAtEL CREdIT MaNagER RItA O’cONNOR publIShER/ gENERal MaNagER mOLLy RhODES MNM publIShINg CoRp.: Co-CEoS tERI fELLmAN cARL wERNIckE publIShER/ChaIRMaN/CEo mARtIN wERNIckE 1922-2000 publIShEd by MNM publIShINg CoRp. appaREl NEwS gRoup publishers of: california Apparel News waterwear jr. 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Men’s Fashion Week Continued from page 1 tique owners, brand representatives, models and people from the fashion community sipped cocktails and ate pralines from new confection label Deuvo Gourmet Sweets. Plans for the June 2013 debut of Williams’ self-funded project include eight runway shows and press presentations as well as pop-up showrooms where store buyers and, perhaps, consumers can purchase looks seen on the runway. Williams plans on the show serving as a big tent—where a wide array of men’s brands, media and buyers can see what’s next in men’s fashions. “We want to attract everyone,” Williams said. “We want majors, specialty boutiques and international buyers.” Williams will spend the next months looking for sponsors and brands interested in exhibiting at the fashion week. The upcoming men’s fashion week will be worth retailers’ time if Wil- Bebe Hires New Chief Digital Officer Mall-based contemporary retailer Bebe Stores Inc. is increasing its commitment to e-commerce. Along with bringing all of its ecommerce operations, such as sales and fulfillment, in-house, the Brisbane, Calif.–headquartered retailer announced Nov. 1 that Ben Baum is assuming the newly created position of Bebe’s chief digital officer. He will report to Manny Mashouf, Bebe’s chairman and chief executive officer. Baum formerly worked as the head of business development for shopping at Google along with serving as a senior group manager of merchandising at Target Corp. Baum will develop Bebe’s omnichannel shopping experience, Mashouf said. “We look forward to leveraging his digital expertise as we continue to make major investments and upgrades in our digital platforms and infrastructure, including mobile, order fulfillment and social media,” Mashouf said. Bebe aspires to be the most digitally advanced shop at the mall, said Mashouf, who founded Bebe in 1976. With being an omni-channel retailer, Mashouf forecast that his customers will buy online and pick up at Bebe’s physical stores. The retailer also will introduce global shipping in the near future. The recent announcement follows a string of reversals for the company. Well-regarded Bebe President Emilia Fabricant resigned in August to join Aeropostale Inc. as its executive vice president. Financial results for Bebe’s first fiscal quarter of 2013, released Nov. 1, reported that the retailer’s samestore sales declined 8.7 percent. Net sales were $117.1 million during its first fiscal quarter of 2013. Also on Nov. 1, Roth Capital Markets analyst Liz Pierce announced she will be dropping her coverage of Bebe to “reallocate research resources,” she wrote. Before she dropped coverage, she gave Bebe a neutral rating with a $5 price target.—Andrew Asch Pamela Williams, founder of Men’s Fashion Week Los Angeles, center, with staff from the MFWLA. Bow ties by Christopher Chaun. FAShION WEEk FELIX SALZMAN/LOOKBOOKLA liams schedules a host of good brands for the show, said Darren Gold, who owns the Alpha boutique in Palm Springs, Calif., and also produced fashion shows as the president of Council of Los Angeles Designers (CLAD) from 2001 to 2004. He also serves as the chairman of The Avenues merchant association in West Hollywood, Calif. If just a handful of men’s designers present, it’s not worth the extra trip to the fashion week, Gold said. “If you see multiple designers’ viewpoints, it gives a more cohesive viewpoint,” he said. Gold also thought the June production dates for the men’s fashion week would serve retailers well. He typically wraps up orders in August. There are a handful of other men’s fashion weeks around the globe. London Men’s Fashion Week is scheduled in June, Vancouver Men’s Fashion Week runs in August, and Shanghai Men’s Fashion Week runs in April. In New York, menswear brands typically host runway shows in the days preceding the womenswear presentations. At one time, fashion weeks were solely produced for the trade. As their prominence and popularity spread, some fashion weeks have been looking to broaden their appeal and how they are funded. Fashion Week El Paseo in Palm Desert, Calif., launched in 2005 and attracted more than 11,000 attendees last year. The show was produced as a designer showcase for consumers, but boutique buyers also view the shows, said Susan Stein, the creator and producer of the event. Sponsors include financial firm Integrated Wealth Management and the city of Palm Desert. She declined to say whether the consumer fashion week was profitable overall. “But it certainly has the opportunity to be profitable for stores that participate. Designers have wonderful trunk shows,” Stein said. ● November 2–8, 2012 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7
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