msafiri_2017_6

Msafiri June 2017 edition 134
kenya-airways.com
Out of
This World
Magical Mozambique
Beauty
by Bike
Exploring Amsterdam
Free to Take Home June 2017
Stay Healthy
Four Top Tips for
Business Travellers

INTRODUCTION / 11
Enjoy Your Flight
“I manage
whatever needs
to be carried
on board”
Meet SAMUEL NJOROGE,
an award-winning Passenger Ramp
Manager for Kenya Airways.
Cover Photograph
Jean Schwarz, Mauritius Images
How did you arrive at Kenya Airways?
​I always dreamed of working in aviation.
While in college, I heard about KQ and
its prestige. After university, I worked
as a teacher before applying for the
lowest-level manual labour job at the
airport – loading agent – in the hope
that I would ultimately land at KQ.
Time passed, and in 2004 I was invited
for a job interview there. Forty-five
customer service agents were recruited
from a pool of 600 applicants. I’m still
delighted that I was chosen. I served
guests at the counters, and I was soon
promoted to Load Controller, ensuring
that passenger jets were well balanced
while on the ground and in the air. After
three years, I was promoted again to
Turnaround Coordinator, and later, I
moved up to Head of the Turnaround
Coordinators Group, a position I held
until my recent promotion to Head of
Passenger Ramp Services.
What does your new job entail?
Ramp operations require managing
whatever needs to be carried on an
aircraft, and getting the aircraft ready
for a safe departure. This involves
loading and offloading cargo and
baggage, and delivering it to the relevant
points of transport or owner collection.
But it also involves tasks related to
preparing the aircraft for flight, such as
cabin cleaning, fuel overview, providing
water for tea and coffee, draining
lavatories, and providing staircases for
boarding or disembarking.
What do you enjoy most about your job?
​The most satisfying thing about my job
is that it is not routine. I do different
tasks each day, and that makes the work
diverse and gratifying. My day starts at
4:30 in the office, responding to internal
and external customer queries. After this
I’ll walk around the ramp, making sure
that all arriving guests are dealt with to
their satisfaction. I also ensure that the
necessary steps are taken for safety,
timely aircraft disembarkation and
baggage delivery.
What is your proudest moment on the job?
​When I reached 10 years of service for
Kenya Airways, something that I felt
marked my loyalty to the company. Also,
in 2015, I was recognised as safety
champion of the year with a Gold Medal.
I volunteered to become the chairman
of the first system of reporting hazards
at the operational-staff level through
forming and leading a team called
GS-hazard Mitigation, which is a solid
foundation for a safer flight. Many staff
opened up and reported in a transparent
way, which has helped to improve safety
performance continuously ever since.
Kenya Airways World Travel Awards
• Winner of Best Airline in Africa, 2016
• Winner of Africa’s Leading Airline –
Business Class 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

CONTENTS / 13
Travel & Nature
16 On the Move
The Great Wildebeest Migration
19 Habari
Kenya & the world
26 Sea, Sand & Safari
Explore Mozambique
46 Liberia
at a glance
56 Reinventing the Wheels
Amsterdam by bike
64 Guess and Win
Travel quiz
66 Game Changers
Celebs speak out against wildlife crime
66
26
People
36 Social Savants
Social influencers worth following
24 People to Watch
Rolex laureates
Publisher Kenya Airways | Marketing Director Jacquie Muhati Corporate Communications Manager Wanjiku Mugo Advertising MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. | Managing Director Esther
Ngomeli Head of Media Rose Kagori Concept, Content & Production G+J Custom Content | CEO Eric Blok Creative Director Loes van Dokkum Managing Editor Annette Lavrijsen
Art Directors Sabine Verschueren, Gaby Walther Sub Editors Ben Clark, Julia Gorodecky, Annemarie Hoeve, Nina Siegal Photo Editor Monique Kolmeijer Production Manager Hans
Koedijker IT Manager Olaf de Jager Contributors Jackson Biko, Mirjam Bleeker, Edith Carron, Maartje Diepstraten, Mark Eveleigh, Shalini Gidoomal, Desiree Hoving, Piper Mackay,
Natascha Mijnhart, Kerry Murray, Astrid Nühn, Dianne Sutherland, Eva de Vries, Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism, Hanna Wieslander, Joanne Wienen, Eugene Yiga Translation Concorde
Lithography Ready4Print Printer Habo da Costa, Vianen

14 / CONTENTS
Fly Guide
71 Highlights
Inflight entertainment guide
91 Safari Njema
93 News & Service
95 Flying Blue News
97 Skyteam News
98 Route Maps
105 Cargo
106 Get Comfortable
56
Business
36
42 Well Refined
Kenya’s oil business
48 Microloans, Macro Impact
Loans that change lives
53 Healthy Travelling
Tips for business travelers
54 Productive Feedback
Useful advice
81 Msafiri en Français
87 Msafiri 中 文 版
Contact details Kenya Airways Marketing & Corporate Communications, Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 642 2000, msafiri@kenya-airways.com
Website: kenya-airways.com; Facebook: Kenya Airways; Twitter: @kenyaairways; Instagram: officialkenyaairways
MediaEdge Interactive Ltd. Nairobi, Kenya, +254 20 420 5000 / +254 723 140187 / +254 734 271488, msafiri@mediaedgeke.comG+J Media, Spaklerweg 52, 1114AE Amsterdam,
the Netherlands +31 20 7943500, www.genj.nl.
No part of the contents may be reproduced without prior written permission. While every care is taken to ensure accuracy in preparing the magazine, the publisher and Kenya Airways assume no
responsibility for effects arising therefrom. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in according with existing legislation.
Msafiri is available on all KQ flights and at select hotels and businesses in Nairobi. A digital copy is available free at msafirimag.com.

16 / NATURE / Views /
On the
Move
Each year, almost two
million wildebeest take
part in a GREAT
MIGRATION from the
Serengeti to the Maasai
Mara. It’s an amazing
sight to behold.
text Nina Siegal
AS SUMMER arrives in the
Serengeti (in June), over two million
wild animals make their way from the
increasingly hostile plains of Tanzania
to the green and abundant Maasai Mara
National Reserve in Kenya. The more
numerous (1.7 million) white-bearded
wildebeest make the 1,900-km odyssey
with the support of 400,000 Thomson’s
and Grant’s gazelles, 300,000 zebras,
12,000 eland and impalas. It’s a true
wonder to observe this Great Wildebeest
Migration, and many people track the
detailed movements of the herds, or
book special safaris at camps and lodges
dotting their path to witness the spectacle
from close up.
A dramatic moment during the
migration occurs when the wildebeest
must cross the Mara River in the Maasai
Mara, which is full of crocodiles. Some
wildebeest don’t survive this part of
their passage. The herds remain in the
Maasai Mara until mid-October, when
they return to the short-grass plains of
the Serengeti for the winter months.
About 500,000 calves are born between
January and March, while the wildebeest
stay put. But in June, the migration
begins anew.
Maasai Mara National Reserve is about 280
km (a five-hour drive) west of Nairobi Jomo
Kenyatta International Airport.

NATURE / 17
Piper Mackay

HABARI / 19
Kenya is home to 23
National Parks. That
is more than any other
country in Africa!
Habari
Kruger National Park in South Africa
is one of the most popular
national parks in the world.
See here!
African Pop Art
Williams Chechet is a Nigerian
graphic designer, illustrator and
muralist whose work is highly
influenced by pop art. This
portrait is from his latest project,
We are the North. In this series,
Chechet seeks to immortalise
the people and scenes he grew
up seeing in Northern Nigeria –
in his own unique way.
~ williamschechet.com

20 / HABARI
It takes 22 days to travel
the 4,371 km Congo River
by boat.
Top class
Humidor Bar
You’ll want to sit at this bar in
the glitzy Radisson Blu. Maybe
even cut a cigar in their cigar
lounge. Some may prefer to
kick back with a glass of wine
at the Al Fresco Pool Bar and
Grill that overlooks a stunning
view of Nairobi’s skyline.
Humidor is a classy place
with a decor featuring sharp
angles that point to what you
need to feel whole in a bar:
comfort, celebration and joy.
~ Radisson Blue Hotel Upper Hill
Nairobi
“Art has the
power to heal,
inspire and
bring people
together”
– Williams Chechet –
Nigerian artist
Kenyans love beer. The country
sells about 700,000 hectoliters of
Tusker beer per year.
Style
Suits All Types
Le’ Kasri, the Kenyan brand
that tailors bespoke suits,
decked out three men (from
different generations) in the
latest collection: ‘Linda
Ufalme’ (‘protect the
kingdom’). They were served
whisky while they answered a
series of questions about life,
clothes, fatherhood, work,
travel, sex, African politics,
the Internet and Swaziland’s
reed dance. Their opinions of
the world were as diverse as
their suits and mixers. You
can find the Le’ Kasri shop in
Meru South Building, 4th
floor Suite 28. More info on
the interviews via: lekasri.com.
Fitness
Smart Gyms
Sweaty guys. Sweaty girls.
Spinning bikes, the usual
machines, and thankfully
many treadmills. Few pains
compete with waiting for a
treadmill. The changing
rooms are spotless. The
machines are modern. You
use a barcode to enter the
gym. They also have an app
for classes. And the price is
surprisingly affordable for
the quality.
~ Junction Mall,
smartgyms.co.ke
Text: Jackson Biko

HABARI / 21
Healthy news: there are no
malaria-carrying mosquitos
in the Seychelles.
Arts & Culture
The cornmeal dish Ugali
is eaten across Africa, under
different names. In Uganda, it’s
posho and in Ghana, it’s tuozafi.
Events
National Arts Festival
For 11 days every year, Grahamstown in South
Africa sees its population double as people flock to
the city for a feast of arts, crafts, cabaret, theatre
and music. Halls are transformed into theatres,
parks and sport fields become flea markets, and
every bed in the city, it seems, is booked. This year’s
National Arts Festival takes place from 29 June to
9 July.
~ nationalartsfestival.co.za
Q&A
Plastic Fantastic
Sandra Suubi is a popular singer in her home country, Uganda,
where she also works as an eco artist. She tells Msafiri all
about it.
Alamy
What does an eco artist do?
I draw attention to the pollution and use of garbage in our society. I
reuse different materials, such as plastic bottles, and turn them into
interesting and eye-catching sculptural artworks.
What do you want to achieve with your art?
I hope that my eco art contributes to a discussion about how materials
such as plastic are hazardous to our environment. Usually, my audience
is shocked to realise how much plastic we are throwing away.
How do you combine singing and creating eco art?
Even though it seems like an odd combination, my songs and my artwork
serve the same purpose; my goal is to engage the youth in my country
through my work. I want to tell them that they have whatever they need
within and around them to make their dreams come true.
~ sandrasuubi.com
Gallery scene
Nafasi Art Space
Text: Eva de Vries
Located in downtown Dar es Salaam, Tanzania,
Nafasi Art Space is a gallery and multi-disciplinary
creative hub where artists come together to create,
learn, exhibit and perform. With more than 60
member artists and 32 studios, Nafasi Art Space
hosts workshops and regularly organises film
screenings, exhibits and concerts for the public.
~ nafasiartspace.org

22 / HABARI
Love to explore your holiday
destination by foot? Cars are not
allowed on the Lamu Archipelago
along the Kenyan coast.
What’s On
The Great Rift Valley,
a ridge system running from
Lebanon to Mozambique,
was formed 35 million years ago.
Photo book
Nollywood
Portraits
Nigeria’s Nollywood is a
prolific film industry, releasing
almost 2,000 titles each year.
Who are its stars? Meet them
in photo book Nollywood
Portraits: A Radical Beauty,
where artist Iké Udé captures
over 60 talents, from big
names to fresh faces.
~ nollywoodportraits.com
Business
Strategy &
Innovation
Conference
Now in its second year, the
2017 Business Strategy &
Innovation Conference in
Accra will feature more than
50 business experts who will
expose and challenge old
approaches to developing
industry and trade in Africa,
and explore new strategies
for growth.
~ westcapestrategy.com
Sport
Kilifi Gold Triathlon
The Kilifi Gold Triathlon, on the Kenyan shores of the Indian
Ocean, is fun-in-the-sun for everyone. Participants must
complete a 750 m swim in Kilifi Creek, followed by 20 km of
off-road cycling, culminating in a 5 km run. The event raises
funds for charities like the Pambazuko Disability Initiative for
disabled kids. The next event takes place on 30 September.
~ kilifigoldtriathlon.org
Shutterstock
Disadvantaged girls from the rural areas of Kilifi and
Kwale County, along the Kenyan coast, tend to drop out of
school early, face unwanted pregnancies and are at high risk
of contracting HIV/AIDS, which traps them in poverty.
“Women and girls are like workhorses in these areas. They
look for firewood, go to the river to fetch water, cook, clean
the house, everything," says Rachel Muthoga, Executive
Director of Moving the Goalposts (a community-based
organisation). “It has not been easy to convince communities
to allow the girls to play football.”
But that is exactly what Muthoga’s organisation does, as a way
to ‘bring girls together and teach them about life skills’ – such
as leadership, confidence and assertiveness. Girls play football
(in and out of school) and participate in tournaments. The
group aims to tackle gender inequality in sport, improve
girls’ health and fitness, and – after training – teach the girls
about reproductive health. Moving the Goalposts reports that
since it was founded in 2001, it has helped some 5,000 girls
around Kilifi.
~ mtgk.org
Philanthropy
Moving the Goalposts
“I loved
you so hard that
I softened”
– Upile Chisala –
Malawian poet

24 / HABARI
The national dish of Burundi
is beef brochettes (kebabs)
and grilled plantains.
People
Jackson Biko is a well known
writer and blogger in Kenya.
~ bikozulu.co.ke
Rolex laureates
Problem Solvers
“Women die because they
live outside the reach of
modern medicine”
Aggrey Otieno (Kenya, 1978)
2012 Laureate, Science & Health
Knowing that a single slum
in Nairobi saw more than 200
babies die every year due to
lack of obstetric medical
care, Aggrey Otieno decided
to build a telemedicine centre
with a 24-hour doctor on call
and a van for safe transport
to a local hospital. He also
created a programme to train
locals about maternal and
newborn health issues, to
prevent problems from arising.
“We always do shows
from a simple children’s
perspective, but we still
tackle serious issues”
Bruktawit Tigabu (Ethiopia,
1981) 2010 Young Laureate
Science & Health
After growing up in a poor
neighbourhood in Addis
Ababa, Bruktawit Tigabu
always felt that education in
basic hygiene was seriously
lacking. She created a puppet
show to teach little kids
about serious health issues
like diarrhoea and HIV/
AIDS. Now a film director,
she has produced the 2D
animated series, Tibeb Girls,
to help teach adolescents
about their changing bodies.
“I had to find a way to prevent others
experiencing the same hunger”
Oscar Ekponimo (Nigeria, 1986)
2016 Young Laureate
Applied Technology
Oscar Ekponimo suffered from
hunger as a child when his father
had a stroke and lost his job. That
experience stuck with him, and as
an adult he decided to use his
software-developer skills to
address childhood hunger. He
created a cloud-based software
application, Chowberry, to reduce
food waste by helping to redistribute packaged food products
to people in need.
Jackson Biko
Thoughts on
Liberation
We wrestled the country from the British and gained self-rule
on the first day of this month in 1963. OK, we didn’t; the Mau
Mau rebels and a bunch of other freedom fighters did. We just
sort of got freedom and read about the struggle in the history
books. It didn’t seem very romantic to be honest, this struggle.
I wish we could romanticise and dramatise our history the way
Hollywood movies do, so that children in primary school might
find the struggle exotic and exciting enough to evoke a true
sense of patriotism.
One possible script: an elite squad of dreadlocked Mau
Mau fighters led by a lean leader who climbs trees, eats leaves,
makes fire by rubbing sticks together, and plants a spear into a
British colonialist’s neck. There would be a bunch of brave
women left in the villages to feed the children as these men set
off into the bush to fight. A Mau Mau fighter would kneel
down and place his ear against his pregnant woman’s belly
and whisper, “Kamau, I’m off to fight the white man, to fight
for you. Keep mama safe.” His four-year-old son, clutching
his mother’s leg would ask, “Who is white man, papa?” To
which he would say glumly, eyes cast over the foggy forest
canopy of Mount Kenya yonder, “A bad man with a ginger
moustache, smoking a pipe fed with dry hate.”
There would be heroic scenes of our dreadlocked heroes,
gathered around a roaring fire in the thick of a sinister forest,
murmuring in the darkness. One man will say, “The basic
tenet of black consciousness is that the black man rejects all
value systems that seek to make him a foreigner in the country
of his birth and reduce his basic human dignity.”
There is a distant hyena howl. A deep growl will then come
from the knot of freedom fighters, “Black man, you are alone.”
They would raid a camp at first light and torch buildings. The
soundtrack would be a song of faraway drums and a man with
Youssou N’Dour’s voice. Fade to black. A flag of Kenya. If I’d
seen that in school, I’d consider dying for my country.
Hannah Wieslander (Illustration Jackson Biko), xxxxx

HABARI / 25
Tanzania is surrounded by three
great lakes: Lake Victoria, Lake
Tanganyika and Lake Malawi.
Gadgets
Africa is larger than China, the US, India,
Mexico and most of Europe combined.
Tech talk
Virtually Typing
It’s hard to imagine how it works,
but this Nutech laser keyboard is
as portable as a keyboard can get.
Inspired to buy?
See our shopping
magazine Karibu.
Pair this wireless device via Bluetooth
with your laptop or mobile phone, and
it will emit infrared light onto any flat
surface to create a virtual keyboard.
Sensors on the Nutech Business Exec
Laser Keyboard detect the movement of
your fingers across the illuminated grid
and inform the device what you want to
accomplish. Cool looking, extremely
portable, and convenient for air travel
– you will never need to worry about
spilling coffee on your keys again.
~ nutechdesign.com
Travel gadgets
Portable Keyboards
1
MOTOSPEED Mini PC BK40
Utra-thin Foldable Keyboard
This ultra-compact foldable keyboard with a
Lithium battery will last for 40 hours after you
have charged it for less than two hours. Thin and
lightweight, it’s easy to fold up and carry around
in a laptop bag or even a purse. Although it's not
so ‘gadgety’, you can use it on-the-go to write
short texts, emails or long documents. Silica
gel mats on the bottom help keep it in place.
Available for iOS, Android and Windows devices.
~ motospeed.cc
3
Samsung Galaxy Tab S3
Keyboard Cover
A keyboard and a protective cover in one, this
Samsung product clips right onto your tablet,
making it easy to convert your device into a fully
operational workstation. It also has a magnetic
indent that is perfectly sized to hold your device
in place. Find similar keyboard covers that are
also compatible from IVSO and Omoton.
~ samsung.com
1
2
LogiLink flexible waterproof
USB + PS keyboard
What fun to be able to roll up your keyboard.
This silent silicone keyboard is as flexible as
flexible gets, which is useful for storage and
travel. Both waterpoof and dustproof, it prevents
damage and is highly durable. It's also easy to
clean: a sponge and some soapy water is all
you need.
~ logilink.com
2
3

26 / TRAVEL / Mozambique

TRAVEL / 27
SEA, SAND
& SAFARI
Combining one of Africa’s biggest WILDERNESS
areas with tiny island escapes, Mozambique
is a country of UNPARALLELED CONTRASTS –
it never ceases to amaze.
text Mark Eveleigh

28 / TRAVEL / Mozambique
Right (clockwise
from top): Camping on
the Luzenda River; Openfire
camping; Elephant at
Gorongosa National Park
IT’S AN UNLIKELY MOMENT for a fit of the giggles.
I’m lying facedown on a riverbank just a few metres from a
dozen snorting African giants and doing my best to stifle
nervous childish laughter. The experience reminds me of
childhood days creeping across farmyards, terrified that the
farmer (a giant himself to us little kids) would spot us. Four
decades later you might think that I’d be past such mischief,
but there’s something about the African bush that can bring
out the child in all of us.
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
I’ve been among African elephants during countless safaris
in the past, but there is something different about the restless
herds here in Niassa Reserve, in northern Mozambique. The
animals here aren’t like the habituated herds in other parts of
Africa; they are more unpredictable. Essentially wilder.
Nic van Rensburg, a guide at Lugenda Wilderness Camp,
had warned me that they were likely to take off in stampeding
flight if they caught our scent. Even Nic was surprised that
we’ve been able to get this close to such a skittish herd. “Keep
your head down, but don’t stick your bottom half up in the air
either,” I hear him snicker from his prone position in the grass
next to me. After a few days exploring the park, I realise that
Nic has probably spent more intimate time among African
wildlife than anyone I’ve ever met, and it is reassuring to see
that he too is infected with childish excitement. He manages to
manoeuvre our vehicle right into the path of a herd of 50
elephants and shows me where to hide so that – obscured as
we are by the forest of miombo trees along the riverbank – we
are able to lie unnoticed as their trunks pluck branches that
are just a few feet from our faces.
EXTREME WILDERNESS
The Lugenda River carves a rugged course through about
355 km of northern Mozambique, an area that the Portuguese
once called Fim do Mundo (End of the World) and is now the
location of Niassa Reserve. At 42,000 sq km, it’s one of Africa’s
biggest protected areas. Founded in 1954 when this was still
Portuguese East Africa, the reserve – like Mozambique itself
– has had a turbulent history. It’s often said that elephants have
long memories and perhaps the matriarchs in the herd that surrounded
us could recall less peaceful times when poaching to
fund guerrilla wars was still rife here.
Today the reserve’s estimated 20,000 elephants are free to roam
the area.
This giant among African parks is home to an estimated
70 percent of Mozambique’s wildlife and has a reputation
among experienced safari connoisseurs as one of the last great
undeveloped wildernesses. Thankfully, this does not mean that
you have to rough it. At Lugenda Wilderness Camp – an
exclusive reserve inside the park covering some 1,000 sq km >
“Bird-watchers flock here for spectacular
once-in-a-lifetime sightings like the Taita falcon
and the Southern Banded Snake-eagle”
Culture
The fact that there are 43
languages spoken in Mozambique
is proof enough of its incredible
cultural diversity. The Portuguese
influence remains tangible, both
in colonial architecture and the
national language, and the resulting
mix makes Mozambique one of
Africa’s most fascinating countries.
The Island of Mozambique (current
population just 14,000) was a
major trading and dhow-building
centre long before it became the
capital of Portuguese East Africa
and its historical wealth has
qualified it as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site.
Right page (top):
Mount Murresse in the
Zambezia Province;
(bottom left)
Game Drive Lugenda
Wilderness Camp;
Southern Banded Snakeeagle
(bottom right)
Alamy, Hollandse Hoogte, Mauritius Images

TRAVEL / 29

30 / TRAVEL / Mozambique
“We are able to lie unnoticed as
the elephants pluck branches that are just
a few feet from our faces”
Sunset over
Gorongosa
National Park
Alamy

TRAVEL / 31
Flamingos in a
freshwater lake on
Benguerra Island
Alamy

32 / TRAVEL / Mozambique

TRAVEL / 33
Left page (clockwise from
top): Swimming pool at Ibo
Island Lodge; dhow at low
tide; Town scene at Ibo Island
Right: Beach
Lounging on
Anantara Medjumbe
Island Resort
– the level of luxury comes as a complete surprise. The eight
spacious tented suites are equipped with king-size four-poster
beds, beautifully appointed bathrooms and private verandas
overlooking the Lugenda River. If you enjoy the specific thrill
that comes from the sheer immensity of the African bush and
want to spend time tracking wildlife that still behaves like it is
wild – all with a touch of pampered comfort – then this is
nothing short of paradise. Niassa boasts an estimated 14,000
sable antelope and endemic species like the Niassa wildebeest,
Boehm’s zebra, and Johnston’s impala. Vast herds of buffalo,
wildebeest, zebra and impala provide ample prey for the
reserve’s estimated 800 lions and 450 African wild dogs.
Bird-watchers flock here to tick off a few of the area’s 400
bird species, including spectacular once-in-a-lifetime sightings
like the Taita falcon and the Southern Banded Snake-eagle.
BACK IN TIME
Wherever you go, you get a sense of Mozambique’s unique
culture: a combination of Portuguese vibrancy and a depth of
history that stretches far back in time. This history is palpable
in the virtually unexplored Niassa Reserve, with its thoroughly
unexpected insight into life as it was at the dawn of mankind.
“The rock-face is a bit slippery here,” Nic warns me one
morning as we scramble up the curved flank of an inselberg
that seems to rise from the savannah like Ayers Rock. “So
when we come back down, it’s probably best to do so on ‘all
sixes’: hands, feet and both buttocks.”
The original indigenous Batwa pygmies left their rock art
in several sites that still have a powerful magical significance
for local communities. I realise that if the ancient artists who
created these designs could return today to view the scene
from this high vantage point, they would not see a single
speck of evidence that this the 21st century. There is not the
slightest hint of tarmac, power lines or even the telltale smokesmudge
of a village and, as in the old times, the entire area
seems to be covered with animal tracks.
“The local people won’t come here because they believe
that the rock paintings are bad magic,” Nic explains as we
shuffle in the dust. “The official story is that the artwork here
was done by pygmies about 4,000 years ago. That’s pretty
magical in itself!”
An impressive 12 percent of Mozambique is now
covered with protected reserves (national parks). Gorongosa is
slowly regaining its past glory as the African Eden that it was
reputed to be before poaching and guerrilla warfare decimated
its wildlife. Limpopo now forms a transfrontier with South
Africa’s Kruger. Mozambique’s Banhine and Zinave, likewise,
are becoming renowned as safari destinations that are
surprisingly uncrowded in comparison with other regions.
Quirimbas and Bazaruto Archipelago offer a perfect chance
to combine land-based safaris with island activities. >
Julian Love/awl-images.com
“Rambling colonial buildings inspire daydreams
of buried pirate treasures”
Where To Stay
Mozambique provides luxury in almost
every variety.
Lugenda Wilderness Camp
Wilderness luxury in the heart of the great Niassa Reserve.
The eight tented-suites are arranged along the Lugenda River,
and dinners are served either in the delightfully rustic main
lodge or – for a touch of romantic exclusivity – at secluded
candlelit tables on the riverbank.
Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort
The ideal luxury retreat if you really want to get away from
it all in the wide-open expanses of the Indian Ocean.
Medjumbe Island is a little emerald gem surrounded by silver
sand in a setting of turquoise reefs. Tiny though the island is,
there are enough activities – diving, whale-watching, water
sports – to keep even the more active guests satisfied.
Royal Beach Villas at Azura Benguerra Island
Magnificently appointed and secluded luxury villas in a
boutique eco-resort, hand-built by the local community
on Benguerra Island, the second largest in the Bazaruto
Archipelago. Set in private indigenous gardens with 30 m of
beachfront, these villas are lavishly equipped and even boast
butler service. See azura-retreats.com.
Ibo Island Lodge
An award-winning luxury lodge on the main island of the
Quirimbas Archipelago. Take your pick of Sea Facing
Rooms, Historical Rooms or the private villa Paradiso that
accommodates 12 people. This is the perfect place
for exploring the historical heritage of Ibo Island.
See iboisland.com.
For more information, see Mozambique Tourism:
visitmozambique.net.

34 / TRAVEL / Mozambique
Left (clockwise
from top):
Ibo Island Resort
Garden; pedestrians
outside a mosque;
Quirimbas aerial view
“Medjumbe is barefoot luxury at its finest”
Food
While piri-piri (spicy-spicy) chicken
might be known throughout the
world, any trip to Mozambique
can be a culinary adventure in its
own right. Mozambique boasts an
estimated 2,300 km of coastline, so
fish naturally form a major part of
the national cuisine. Matapa stew,
a national dish, is a delicious mix
of cassava leaves, onions, coconut,
shrimp, crab and cashew nuts. It’s
best washed down with 2M Beer or
local rum, Tipo Tinto (often drunk
with raspberry soda).
➔
Julian Love/awl-images.com
Plan your trip
Visitors can obtain a visa on arrival.
Visitors from Southern Africa can visit
Mozambique without a visa for up to
three months. Kenya Airways operates
daily flights between Nairobi and Maputo.
Book your flight on kenya-airways.com
ISLAND BLISS
Much of travel’s fascination lies in contrasts, which are a
defining characteristic of Mozambique. The country’s great
national parks are easily combined with a visit to one of its
jewel-like, iconic islands. Only an hour since leaving the
dirt-track runway at Niassa in a little Cessna aircraft, I land
among the sparkling coral atolls of the Quirimbas Archipelago
on an island barely long enough for a landing strip. Medjumbe
Private Island measures just 800 m long by 350 m wide yet,
just as the exclusivity of Niassa seems to be represented by its
immensity, the charm of Medjumbe is inextricably linked to
its minuteness amid the surrounding blue.
While the famous Bazaruto Archipelago has 6 islands,
Quirimbas boasts 32. Medjumbe is one of the smallest and is
among the most beautiful. Thirty minutes after landing, I’m
already in a jacuzzi with a frosted bottle of doshem, local slang
for 2M Beer. One of northern Mozambique’s most
exclusive boutique retreats, Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort
is the ideal place to rinse away the dust of a glorious World’s
End safari. Medjumbe is barefoot luxury at its finest. The staff
create the hospitable atmosphere that is integral to the local
outlook. After just a few hours on the island, you start to feel
as much at home in the beautifully designed and furnished
main lodge as you do in your charming beach chalet (with the
perpetual lure of the private plunge-pool).
Ibo Island (a little over 10-km long) is the biggest in the
Quirimbas Archipelago. As a trading settlement that was
known to Arabs, Indians, Chinese and Portuguese, Ibo Island
is a remote and unspoiled community. With 500 years of rich
history, Ibo has been home to pirates, slavers, ivory hunters
and colonial overlords. Just as the
ancient rock art of Niassa seems to hint at legends and
adventures of the ancient past, the crumbling walls of Ibo’s
Portuguese chapel, three forts and rambling colonial buildings
inspire daydreams of buried pirate treasures.
“We are proud of our past,” says one small boy who wants
to practice his English. “Our island might be small, but it has
a big history, and we are happy that people want to come here
to see it!”
Back on tiny Medjumbe, I do my best to resist taking part
in the various activities on offer, such as diving, snorkelling,
kayaking, sailing, wakeboarding and romantic cruises. I’m
delighted to have allowed enough time to just relax and soak
up a sense of unadulterated tropical bliss. A late afternoon
stroll to the sandy tip of the island reveals a panorama of
shimmering gold as the sun sets over the great expanse of the
Indian Ocean. It’s like being at the end of the world.

William Abranowicz / Art + Commerce
TRAVEL / 35

36 / PEOPLE / Social Influencers
Social
Savants
There is a large and growing community of
Kenyans who are active on SOCIAL MEDIA,
where important – and sometimes not-so-important –
discussions transpire. Who are the key Kenyan figures to
follow? Here are five people who are shaping the
NATIONAL CONVERSATION online.
text Jackson Biko
Boniface
Mwangi
Born
10 July 1983, Taveta
We know him from
His award-winning photography
Achievements
CNN Multichoice Africa Journalist of the
Year: the Mohammed Amin Photographic
Award, 2008 & 2010;
Social activist and champion of change
Favourite hashtag
#TeamCourage, #BMUnBounded
Followers
Twitter: 615K
Instagram: 50K
Facebook: 246K
Follow him
Twitter: @bonifacemwangi
Instagram: @bonifacemwangi
Facebook: Boniface Mwangi
TO UNDERSTAND Boniface Mwangi you
have to peek into his past. He was raised by a single
mother in what he describes as ‘abject poverty’. She
joined a cult that frowned on medicine, but she
ended up dying from cancer when he was 17. His
family tree also includes a grandmother who
cooked meals for the Mau Mau fighters and was
jailed for it. His personal history is peppered with
poverty, loneliness and school expulsions.
At some point, Mwangi discovered a camera
and became a photojournalist working for local
newspaper The Standard. In 2007-2008, during the
post-election violence in Kenya, he proved his
mettle by capturing chilling images of police with
attack dogs terrorising citizens in a Nairobi slum.
For that work, he won the 2008 and 2010 CNN
Multichoice Africa Journalist of the Year: the
Mohammed Amin Photographic Award. “The
pictures,” said the judges, “represent what can go
wrong when power is mishandled.”
Mwangi left the news business, however, to
engage in socio-political activism. He founded the
youth-led peace initiative Picha Mtaani, and Team
Courage, a movement that aims to motivate young
change makers. For one Occupy Parliament march,
he spilled pigs’ blood on the ground in front of the
gates of parliament, and wrote the name of MPs in
blood onto living pigs and piglets. He did it, he
said, “to show that the MPs are greedy like pigs.”
Now he’s throwing his hat into the political
ring, running for a parliamentary seat. Kenyans
follow him because he is a whistleblower and a
newsmaker, and he knows how to work up a debate
with his tweets. It will be interesting to see how his
message will fare at the ballot box.

PEOPLE / 37
“Free-spirit.
Photo-activist.
Idealist. Fearless.
Patriot. Prince
Claus Laureate”

38 / PEOPLE / Social Influencers
Ory
Okolloh
Born
18 January 1977, Nairobi
We know her from
Her activism and as a techpreneur
Achievements
2014 Time 100 Most Influential People in the World;
2011 Forbes 20 Youngest Power Women in Africa;
Young Global Leader with the World Economic Forum;
Fellow of the African Leadership Network
Favourite hashtag
#147notjustanumber
#FagiaWote
Followers
Twitter: 193K
Instagram: 2,437
Follow her
Twitter: @kenyanpundit
“If I have something pressing to say, I can get it
out there with as few words as possible
IMBUED WITH a strong sense of civic duty following
her family’s push to provide the young Okolloh with a good
education (a push that flung her from a modest background in
Madaraka Estate to Harvard Law School), Okolloh’s seminal
approach is based on a premise she began to develop as a
student: use technology to ensure African voices are heard.
“Technology gave me an opportunity to have a voice as a
woman,” she says. “There’s an element of meritocracy in technology;
it’s more really about what you put out there.” And Okolloh
has put out a lot. She co-founded the platforms Mzalendo
and Ushahidi, which have changed the way citizens hold their
governments accountable both in Kenya and worldwide. Set
up in 2006, Mzalendo helps Kenyans keep an eye on politicians’
activity. Put together for $US20 a month (plus plenty of sweat)
Mzalendo was joined in 2008 by open-source media platform
Ushahidi. She stepped down from Ushahidi in 2010 to become
Google’s Policy Manager for Africa, before moving into her role
as Director of Investments at eBay founder’s Omidyar Network.
A prolific tweeter, with over 130K tweets, she has found this
channel to be sufficiently powerful and less time-consuming
than writing the blog Kenyan Pundit, whose take on politics
and human rights initially got her noticed. “Twitter killed my
blog. These days if I have something pressing to say, I can
get it out there with as few words as possible,” she says. While
Okolloh’s work represents hope for those that believe the
internet can help foster reform, she says it isn’t enough to sit
behind a device, generating buzz: “Hashtags are signals we
should be listening to, but you can’t just hashtag your way out
of things. We need to take the online offline, to organize ourselves
politically, to demonstrate and create change on the ground.”

PEOPLE / 39
Janet
Mbugua
Ndichu
Born
10 January 1984, Mombasa
We know her from
Television
Achievements
Founder @Iammotherhood;
Founder @InuaDada;
#HelpAChildReach5 Campaign
Favourite hashtag
#IAmMotherhood
Followers
Twitter: 24K
Instagram: 446K
Follow her
Twitter: @OfficialJMbugua
Instagram: @OfficialJanetMbugua
Facebook: Janet Mbugua
“Everything I’ve been through has prepared me
for my biggest role yet”
JANET MBUGUA-NDICHU has been a radio presenter
at Kenya’s Capital FM, a news anchor in both Greece and
Kenya, the star of the television sitcom Rush, and the founder
and director of her own company, Media Avenue Limited, but
when she became a mother over a year ago, her life seemed to
take on a new dimension. A more contemplative, insightful
and maternal Mbugua Ndichu emerged and she founded a
Twitter feed called @iammotherhood that is aligned to that
new development.
In a tweet introducing her feed, she wrote, “Everything I
have been through has prepared me for my biggest role yet.”
Her project, which can also be found via her personal Twitter
account, @OfficialJMbugua, or hashtag #iammotherhood, is
designed to explore deep and honest conversations about
motherhood. She recognises the challenges faced by vulnerable
mothers in society with a series of posted photographs and
narratives about female inmates and wardens at Langata
Womens’ prison.
Selected as one of Kenya’s Top 40 Under 40 Women in
2015 by Business Daily, the region’s leading business paper,
she gives a lot of her time to supporting women and girls, a
passion that has made her a favourite online influencer for
mothers and budding mothers alike. She is a founding trustee
at Inua Dada, a Nairobi-based nonprofit foundation that
envisions a global community that empowers girls, while
upholding their dignity and protecting their rights. There’s a
sobriety to Mbugua Ndichu’s work that her followers enjoy.
“Sharing stories...doesn’t only validate our motherhood
journeys, it allows us to understand how intertwined we all
are. That’s the power and magic of an online platform.”

40 / PEOPLE / Social Influencers
Charles
Kireki
Born
14 August 1990, Nyamira
We know him from
His memes and tech tweets
Achievements:
Winner of the Bloggers Association of Kenya
Awards technology category
Favourite hashtag
#Lorrylmebeba
Followers
Twitter: 28K
Follow him
Twitter: @droid254
Instagram: @droid254
“The only #KOT that doesn’t claim to
be a social media guru”
IF YOU ASK ten millennials to name one of the top tech
influencers on social media in Africa, you will likely hear
@droid254 more than once. His real name is Charles
Kireki, a 27-year-old from Nyamira, carving out a unique niche
for himself as a technology trendsetter, who posts particularly
funny and popular memes on both Twitter and Instagram.
His more popular memes include one of the Ugandan
President Yoweri Museveni sitting on a wicker chair on the
moon. This was during the famous #MuseveniChallenge,
when the president had stopped his motorcade at the side of
the road to make a phone call while seated comfortably on a
wicker chair. Kireki has also made many memes of Kenya’s
president and of other political personalities.
“The whole idea is to humanise these important figures
and bring them to the level of caricature while sending a
message,” he says. Before the memes-mania, Kireki was
working as a social media executive at Soko Directory, an
online business that provides financial market news and
investment data. Blogging was a side passion, but one at
which he has been particularly successful: he won the Bloggers
Association of Kenya Awards under the technology category.
He now works at Jumia Kenya, one of the largest e-commerce
companies in Africa, where he handles social media.
“I spend my life online and the people I interact with
love the Internet because it’s the only place they have been
known to express themselves,” he says. “Everybody wants to
make their home comfortable, so yes, we who dabble in the
online space will do that with memes, but we will also share
knowledge on the gadgets that make our life easier and make
us look cool.”

PEOPLE / 41
Caroline
Mutoko
Born
4 January 1973, Nairobi
We know her from
Radio
Achievements
Radio personality and producer
Favourite Hashtag
#SomeoneTellCNN (I‘m Kenyan :))
Followers
Twitter: 289K
Instagram: 118K
Facebook: +1 million
Follow her
Twitter: @CarolineMutoko
Instagram: @Caroline.Mutoko
Facebook: Caroline Mutoko
“Africa’s time is now. This is the frontier.
I’m reporting for duty”
“IF IT’S AWESOME, if it’s Kenyan and if it’s fabulous,
I will talk about it,” says Caroline Mutoko, a journalist and
radio presenter who hosted the popular morning programme
Big Breakfast on Nairobi’s Kiss 100 FM for several years.
To be fair, sometimes she doesn’t talk about awesome or
fabulous things, but she does make the social issues she talks
about centrepieces of her convictions, which is a fabulous
thing. Her range of topics is both wide and unpredictable,
addressing government corruption or citizen participation in
the political process, or motherhood, or the plight of the
boy child or the downtrodden. She can offer inspirational
career advice on ‘getting the raise you deserve as a woman in
the workplace’, or how to be bold and stand out.
Sometimes she’ll go on a spiel about something that irked
her and that she wants the online world to know about – like
supporting a young girl who was being castigated online for
some questionable personal behaviour.
Mutoko doesn’t have a problem with saying what she
thinks. She was on the radio for over a decade before stepping
away from the microphone a couple of years ago to go behind
the scenes and manage one of Kenya’s big radio powerhouses
– Radio Africa Group – as its Group Marketing Manager.
As a straight shooter and highly confident social
commentator, she’s been lauded and jeered at in equal measure
by members of the online community for her strong opinions
on civil rights and other issues. She maintains the ability to
plough ahead even in the face of criticism. She is not just a
voice on social media, she’s an opinion leader, a thought
leader and a rabble rouser. Her strong convictions are
forthright and enthusiastic, which is refreshing.

42 / BUSINESS / Kenya’s Oil
WELL REFINED
Kenya is now Africa’s latest PETROLEUM
CINDERELLA story, with many new oil
discoveries made over the past five years. As the
continent’s newest oil producer, investments are
being made to expedite the process.
text Dianne Sutherland
Shutterstock

BUSINESS / 43
IN EARLY 2012, after decades of
searching, an Irish company, Tullow Oil,
finally struck crude in Kenya. The find
– in Turkana County – was celebrated
across the country, and particularly among
residents of the remote, rural area where
the oil was found. A region known for its
poverty and illiteracy was suddenly the
focus of the country’s longheld oil dream.
Since that first well, Ngamia-1, was
found in the great depths of the South
Lokichar Basin, Turkana County has
witnessed one exciting oil discovery after
another, and Kenya has become one of
the hottest new oil exploration zones in
Africa. Five years have elapsed now, and
more than a dozen wells have been drilled
by Tullow Oil and Africa Oil in South
Lokichar. Kenya, which previously had
no proven crude oil reserves, now has an
estimated 750 million barrels of oil
accessible for production.
In March 2016, Tullow and its
partners also made the first discovery of
oil outside South Lokichar with the
drilling of the Cheptuket-1 oil well in the
Kerio Valley Basin, the 7,000-sq km area
where these companies are licensed to
search for oil. This basin could add
greatly to Kenya’s oil reserves, if future
drilling campaigns succeed.
Based on the geophysical work that
has been undertaken in the country over
the years, along with the oil discoveries,
industry experts expect that Kenya could
produce around one billion barrels of
oil, with future drilling planned in
different basins.
Geologist Don Riaroh, Director of
Exploration and Production with the
Kenyan Ministry of Energy feels confident
about the future. “There’s more oil to
come soon,” says Riaroh, who is also
CEO of the Kenyan company Savannah
Oil and Gas. And there are thousands of
kilometres of acreage yet to be explored.
A LONG SEARCH
Kenya has attempted to get into the
oil business for many decades, since the
1950s when BP and Shell searched for oil
but never found the right target. Various
exploration wells were drilled since that
time, but because people thought that
Kenya didn’t have enough potential to
offset the financial risk, these efforts were
sporadic. It wasn’t until 2007, when the
Australian company Woodside Petroleum
drilled in Kenya’s deep offshore Lamu
Basin in the Indian Ocean, using advanced
technologies, that traces of oil were found
– providing hope.
Meanwhile, a handful of smaller
independent oil exploration companies –
including Afren, East Africa Exploration,
Erin Energy, Simba Energy and Zarara
Oil & Gas – picked up exploration rights
inland. They later sold their interests,
either all or in part, to larger companies
that could afford to fund the more costly
drilling phases.
Enter Tullow Oil, a highly successful
foreign petroleum exploration company
that had already discovered oil in several
African countries, and had excelled in
neighbouring Uganda, where it had
discovered two billion barrels of oil.
Tullow Oil bought a stake in Africa Oil
and took over its operations.
Since Tullow’s 2012 discovery, more
companies have entered the mix, exploring
in other highly prospective basins and
Resource Holder Comparison
Oil reserves to date (million barrels)
sub-basins where oil deposits may have
formed over millions of years. Erin Energy,
Simba Energy and Zarara Oil & Gas are
among those that have conducted or are
conducting seismic programmes in the
Lamu Basin and the Mandera Basin – a
form of pre-exploration looking deep
into the earth to help determine optimal
locations for drilling.
With Kenya’s strategic position in
the East Africa region, the country
could become a regional oil hub. “The
positioning of Kenya is ideal, especially
for serving landlocked countries like
Uganda and South Sudan,” says Mwendia
Nyaga, Chief Executive of Nairobi-based
Oil & Energy Services. “The port of
Mombasa is a major import hub for the
region and this should extend to the oil
and gas sector. Nairobi is a regional hub
for financial, air transport and other
services. We also expect to see the
growth of the cement and steel sectors
to develop the standards required by the
oil and gas sector.”
With a well-developed network of
retail fuel stations, petroleum transport, >
“The positioning of Kenya is ideal, especially
for serving landlocked countries”
– Mwendia Nyaga –
Chief executive Oil & Energy Services
Ghana 660
Kenya 750
Senegal 641
Uganda 2,200
Shutterstock

44 / BUSINESS / Kenya’s Oil
storage facilities and a refinery, subsectors
of Kenya’s petroleum industry are well
advanced in comparison with its neigbours
in East Africa.
But creating a booming oil industry
will require significant investment in
roads, pipelines, oil storage facilities
and perhaps an additional refinery.
A refinery in Mombasa closed in 2013
due to ongoing, costly maintenance
issues, and may need to be reopened.
Eric Mwangi, advisor to the Cabinet
Secretary of Kenya’s Ministry of Energy,
says that all energy avenues must be
explored and investments made, whether
in oil, natural gas or renewables. “Kenya
is open for investment,” Mwangi told
potential investors in Washington D.C.
The country’s oil resources could have
a profound impact on the daily lives of its
citizens if the revenues are managed with
prudence. Significant manpower will be
required to build supporting auxiliary
industries and manage the industry in the
future. These jobs will come as a blessing
to Kenyans who are trying to improve
their livelihoods.
“Indirect, less technical, support
services will be needed in the early days,
including general labourers who can
build roads and campsites,” says Nyaga.
“Local workforce requirements should
grow with time to include more technical
services that can be offered through
partnerships with more experienced
companies abroad.”
OVERSEAS TRAINING
It is not uncommon for oil exploration
firms to provide overseas training to
employees. For instance, Tullow Oil runs
the Group Scholarship Scheme to train
new workers in the oil and gas sector. In
2015, the programme sponsored 69
students from Africa, including 20 from
Kenya, who earned postgraduate degrees
in industry-related subjects. Tullow Oil
also plans to support educational institutions
within Kenya to build long-term
capacity and reach more locals.
Tullow Oil has already established
partnerships with local businesses to hire
within the oil regions. As early as 2012, it
contracted the Kenyan civil engineering
firm Tai Enterprises to undertake civil and
structural construction work, providing
sewage and waste water facilities, and
road and bridge building. Tai’s staff is 98
percent Kenyan, with 73 percent of its
employees living in Turkana County.
Meanwhile, the World Bank-funded
Kenya Petroleum Technical Assistance
The country should be well on its way to
becoming a premier oil producer in Africa
Project, established in October 2014, is
helping Kenya’s government to build
capacity and manage the sustainable
development of its petroleum sector. The
government has acquired refinery owner
Kenya Petroleum Refineries through its
other entity, the Kenya Pipeline Company,
and it will play an integral role in Kenya’s
oil game. Kenya is also building a 865-km
pipeline, linking the oil fields at South
Lokichar to the port of Lamu on the
Kenyan coast.
Now, the production phase is set to
begin. The Kenyan government and
Tullow Oil have agreed to accelerate the
production and sale of oil, with 2,000
and 4,000 barrels of oil set to be moved
daily by road from South Lokichar to the
Mombasa refinery, where it will be put into
oil storage tanks and ultimately sold. In
October last year, the government began
talks to line up potential buyers for export
and expects to conclude deals in advance
of production. As soon as oil is trading
at more than US$50 per barrel on the
international markets, oil companies can
begin to see a return on their investments.
The government and participating
oil companies expect Kenya to hit full
production by 2020, producing 100,000
barrels a day. The country should be
well on its way to becoming a premier oil
producer in Africa. All Kenyans, from
Turkana County to Nairobi, and from
Mombasa to Lamu, will be able to enjoy
the benefits of these natural resources.
KENYA’S OIL JOURNEY
1954 – Shell and BP begin oil
exploration
1960 – First well drilled in Kenya
1963 – Mombasa oil refinery
commissioned
1981 – National Oil Corporation of
Kenya established
2007 – Woodside Petroleum
drills offshore well, non-commercial
oil found
2012 – Significant oil discovery
made with Ngamia-1 well
2012-2017 – Twelve additional
oil discoveries made
2016 – Kenya announces oil
transport pipeline to be built
2017 – First transport from oil
fields targeted for June
2020 – Full oil production expected
through new Kenyan pipeline
Dianne Sutherland is publisher and owner
of Petroleum Africa, a magazine dedicated to
the continent’s thriving petroleum sector.
Getty Images

46 / BUSINESS / Country at a glance
At a glance
Liberia
Have a closer look at the potential of Liberia.
The most relevant FACTS AND FIGURES,
touristic attractions and social trends of today.
text Desiree Hoving infographics Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism
Sources: The World Bank, IMF
Official name Republic of Liberia
Population 4,5 million people
GPD US$ 3.879 billion
Capital Monrovia
Currency Liberian Dollar
Local time GMT+0
Neighbouring
countries
1.000 km
Liberia borders the North Atlantic Ocean and lies
between Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea and Sierra Leone
Languages English (official), Mande, Kru, Mel, Gola
Flights Kenya Airways operates daily flights to
Monrovia Roberts International Airport
Mt Nimba
is Liberia’s tallest peak,
1.362 m above sea level.
Buchanan
is Liberia’s second
port with a stunning
coastline and wild,
beautiful beaches.
GDP divided
in sectors
Industry
0.6
Services
Source: CIA - the world factbook / Trading Economics, Worldbank Data
1.4
Agriculture
5.5%
’10
8.9%
0.3%
5.3%
’12 ’14 ’16 ’18 ’19
GDP growth compared to the
previous year in Liberia
(in percentages)
10
5
-10
-20
1.9
x US$ 1 billion
Sapo
is Liberia’s only
national park,
containing some
of West Africa’s
last remaining
primary
rainforest.
rubber
Firestone
Rubber
Plantation is the
world’s largest
rubber plantation.
You can view how
rubber is processed.
Sources: Lonely Planet

BUSINESS /47
Most imported and exported goods
Endangered plants in Liberia
China
89
Boat
propellers
64 Iron structures
India
97
Rice
amounts
x US$1 million
Ouratea
amplectens
China
481
Refined petroleum
Tetraberlinia
tubmaniana
South Korea
Sources: wits.worldbank.org (WITS) / MIT, atlas.media.mit.edu
Rubber
4030
Passenger and cargo ships
39
Cocoa beans
Import
Export
376
Passenger
and cargo
ships
200
Iron
102
Rough wood
38
Poland
China
United States
Netherlands
Phyllanthus
profusus
1. Ellen Johnson-
Sirleaf is the first
female president in
Africa. The Liberian
politician won the Nobel
Peace Prize in 2011.
4. In 1847 Liberia was
declared Africa’s first
independent republic.
Monocyclanthus
vignei
Trichoscypha
cavalliensis
liber
=
free
2. One of
the most
admired
leaders in
the world,
Nelson
Mandela,
was born
in Liberia.
3. The name Liberia is
derived from “liber”, the
latin word for free.
5. American TV host Oprah Winfrey
is a descendent of the Kpelle
people in Liberia.
Source: Liberianfaunaflora.com, Earthsendangered.com Sources: Lonely Planet, National Geographic, BBC

48 / TREND / Microloans
Microloans,
Macro Impact
MICROLENDING is increasingly important in
many African countries. Small loans to jump-start
entrepreneurship can help topple barriers that
prevent communities from developing. One
programme in Kenya, called Zawadisha, provides
an example of how it can work.
text Eugene Yiga
JEN GURECKI was an American graduate student
researching bottom-up approaches to social change and
community development in Nairobi and Eldoret, Kenya, in
2006. There she met a group of bright and eager women who
were clear about the role they could play in uplifting their
families and becoming drivers of change. She gave them
cameras and asked them to document their lives.
After two weeks, common themes emerged from their
photographs and narratives. “The overarching message was
that the women believed their greatest obstacle in life was a
lack of access to capital,” says Gurecki. “This was before the
microcredit boom; lending traditionally had been facilitated
through financial institutions and male heads of the house.
Because these women had no credit history or collateral, they
were not able to access credit, and that’s what they wanted to
see change.”
Gurecki spent a month in Kenya to conduct the research
and then returned to the US to take a position at University
of California, Berkeley as a Programme Director. Although
she couldn’t return to Kenya for a few years due to work
commitments and the country’s post-election violence, she
wanted to try to find a meaningful way to give back to the
women who had facilitated her research. >
Numbers
The self-employed poor comprise
50 to 70 percent of the labour
force in developing countries.
More than 500 million of them
run microbusinesses. Fewer than
10 million of these, or a mere 2.5
percent, can obtain loans from
banks or financial institutions.

TREND / 49
Alamy
Getty Images

50 / TREND / Microloans
Alamy
With this in mind, she cashed in the savings bonds worth
approximately US$3,000 that she had received from her
grandmother as a child and used it to fund the pilot of a
microloan programme she named Zawadisha, which means
‘to give a gift’ in Swahili. She initiated the programme with
cash loans to the same 10 women she’d met on her trip.
“I didn’t want to turn my back on them,” she says. “I felt
that I owed it to them.”
UPLIFTING EACH OTHER
The first group to receive loans from Zawadisha named
themselves Tuinuane, meaning ‘uplifting each other’. They
used the money to buy maize and mung beans to sell, or to
stock up their small kiosks, or to buy shampoo, weaves and
other supplies for their salons. While she remained in the US,
Gurecki chose a local Eldoret chairwoman, Winnie Anyango,
to facilitate payments and keep records.
“I didn’t tell anyone what I was doing, and a year later I
went back to Kenya to check in on the progress of the loans,”
adds Gurecki. “The loans had been repaid and the women
were doing well. They were excited to receive another loan.”
At that time, Gurecki’s friends and family began to ask
questions. When she told them what she had started, they
wanted to get involved and the cheque books opened up.
Gurecki knew that this project would be something bigger.
She registered Zawadisha as a nonprofit in the US (in 2013)
and has since served as Board President of an organisation
that just continues to grow. To date, Zawadisha has provided
loans to nearly 1,500 women. The programme has also given
microbusiness-development training and help with financial
literacy to 2,500 women. There are dozens of microlending
services now operating across Africa. Other examples include
“It’s time to move
away from selling pity
and more towards an
authentic partnership”
– Jen Gurecki –
Zawadisha programme founder
Micro kickstart
Anne Ndungu is a mother of three, chairlady of her church,
treasurer of her village’s women’s group and – thanks to
a loan from Grameen Foundation partner Musoni – a
successful entrepreneur. “With the loan I got from Musoni,
I was able to buy a dairy cow, start poultry keeping and
build a cow shed. My dream is to move to a big farm,
add three more cows, and start buying and selling at
least four bulls every two months. I will add more goats
and poultry. I believe Musoni will help me get there.
grameenfoundation.org

TREND / 51
1.3
Billion people live in absolute poverty
(living on less than US$1 a day)
the Grameen Foundation – a global nonprofit that supports
smallholder farmers and women’s savings groups in Sub-
Saharan Africa by giving them access to finances, markets
and to agricultural and health services – and Kiva, an
international nonprofit based in San Francisco with offices in
Nairobi, that provides crowdfunded loans to small-scale
entrepreneurs such as farmers, artisans, shopkeepers, builders
and owners of restaurants who have limited access to banks
or other financial institutions.
Microfinance loans, which provide a variety of financial
services to financially excluded people and small businesses,
have a solid track record as a critical tool in the fight against
poverty in Africa. The use of these loans has now entered the
financial mainstream, according to the International Finance
Corporation, the largest global development institution.
“Financial services for poor people are a powerful (tool)
for reducing poverty, enabling them to build assets, increase
incomes, and reduce their vulnerability to economic stress,”
says International Finance Corporation spokesman Frederick
Jones. “Formal financial services such as savings, loans, and
money transfers enable poor families to invest in enterprises,
better nutrition, improved living conditions and the health
and education of their children.”
TABLE BANKING
In its current model, Zawadisha is focused on lending
useful supplies to African women. Field officers meet with
established women’s groups who participate in something
known as ‘table banking’, which literally means that all the
women put their money on a table and one person takes the
money as a loan for her business for a set amount of time,
and repays it when it comes due (in six to twelve months).
Each woman chooses a product that she wants to receive
– for example, solar lamps or water tanks – and a team of
peer educators provide her with management training and
help with financial literacy. “For example, they might learn
how to set up a mobile phone charging station, charge a
small fee, and keep track of their revenue,” says Gurecki.
“We find that this level of commitment and care is what
encourages women to repay their loans and continue to
borrow from us.”
Saumu, a woman in the programme, received solar lamps
and solar panels for her home through her table bank.
“By using these energy-efficient tools, we are able to get more
things done after the sun has set,” she says. “Our children
will help out with chores after they return home from school.
Having solar lamps gives them the chance to finish their
schoolwork.” Another major impact is the health benefit of
being kerosene-free. “The smoke would fill up our homes and
cause health problems for our families,” adds Saumu.
Ultimately, Gurecki is helping to prove that this form of
microlending provides a system that allows people to help
themselves succeed. It’s not charity, she says, it’s a form of
change. “It’s time to move away from selling pity and move
towards an authentic partnership with the people that we
care so much about.”
70%
Of people living in absolute
poverty are women
US$ 300 million
Is in a fund set up by the
World Bank to support microcredit
30%-40%
The rate at which the volume of
microlending grows each year.
95%-100%
The repayment rates of global microloans
50%-70%
Of the labour force in developing
countries is self-employed
Alamy

Tips / BUSINESS / 53
How to
Give
Productive
Feedback
Giving feedback is a skill.
Get it wrong and you can
do more harm than good.
Get it right and you’ll see
colleagues develop. Here are
a FEW POINTERS.
text Annemarie Hoeve illustration Edith Carron
1
No time like the present
When it comes to feedback, don’t
wait around. Nip issues in the bud and
talk about performance immediately.
Feedback should be a process, so make it
frequent. This enables you to check back
on progress and build a rapport. If staff
are used to getting feedback, they will
find it less daunting.
2
Gently does it
Make sure people feel comfortable
and safe. An informal atmosphere helps
ease nerves so consider a chat over a cup
of coffee. Avoid being overly critical or
personal. This makes people less likely to
respond well. Focus on areas that can
actually be improved.
3
Say what needs saying
Describe problematic behaviour that
needs improving as specifically as possible.
Empty generalisations like ‘You need to do
better’ don’t give someone the information
they need to change. Offer examples and
solutions. Also empower employees by
asking them what they think would help.
4
Watch your body language
Effective communication goes
beyond words. Maintain eye contact to
create a connection. An open stance,
with uncrossed arms, is another great
way to level, cutting through the boss vs.
subordinate dynamic that can get in the
way of open dialogue.
While we’re
on the subject…
These titles (all available
online) offer inspiration
and advice.
Improving performance
and changing habits is not
just about feedback – it’s
also about asking the right
questions and listening.
In The Coaching Habit,
Michael Bungay Stanier
explains how it’s done.
Full of practical advice
from leading experts,
this guide from Harvard
Business Review helps to
the make the feedback
process less stressful.
Managing difficult types
involves giving heaps of
feedback. In Leading
the Unleadable, tech
industry insider and
management consultant
Alan Willett reveals
how even the toughest
employee can be led.

54 / BUSINESS / Tips
How to
Stay Healthy
On Business
Trips
Frequent BUSINESS
TRAVEL is known to
wreak havoc on the body,
even with your most
diligent attempts to stay fit.
Here’s how to take charge.
text Annemarie Hoeve illustration Edith Carron
1
Tackle snacks
All of those airport doughnuts,
buffets and late-night minibar raids add
up. Arm yourself with healthy snacks
like nuts, fruit and raw vegetables. Soft
drinks and beers are notorious calorie
bombs, so stick to sugar-free herbal teas,
fizzy water and the odd glass of wine.
2
Keep on moving
If the hotel doesn’t have a gym, bring
your running and go for a jog nearby.
Most hotel rooms are big enough for
basic calisthenics like crunches, push-ups,
and jumping jacks. Take the stairs, and
walk whenever possible.
3
Get your solid zzzzz’s
Try to get a good night’s sleep
before departure. Bring a neck pillow
and eye mask on board to help you
snooze, and try to synchronise with the
new time zone. Morning sunshine helps
reset your biological clock so order
breakfast al fresco before that all-day
conference. Avoid late-night screen time
as the light emitted disrupts sleep cycles.
4
De-stress
Opt for carry-on luggage. That way,
you can skip the baggage-claim and have
more time before your meetings. Even
brief moments of solitude can boost
energy levels and attention spans. Don’t
forget to pack something that helps you
relax (e.g. a good book) after a busy day.
While we’re
on the subject…
These titles (available
online) offer inspiration
and advice.
Using scientificallybacked
data and her own
experiences as an on-thego
professional, in Living
Well on the Road, Linden
Schaffer shares her secrets
to improving wellbeing for
those often away from home.
Studies have shown that
keeping track of daily food
and exercise habits can
help to maintain fitness
goals. This logbook from
UK-based Diet and Fitness
Resources includes weekly
progress reports and
motivational tips. Order via:
dietandfitnessresources.co.uk
Stay limber and eliminate
stress at the same time
with the Pocket Yoga app.
Suitable for all skill levels,
it works without Internet
connectivity, so you can
get in the flow whenever,
wherever. More info:
pocketyoga.com

56 / TRAVEL / Amsterdam
1
2
3
4

TRAVEL / 57
5
Reinventing
the Wheels
6
For the REAL AMSTERDAM
experience, you need a decent PAIR OF
WHEELS – bike wheels. Then it’s
just a matter of hopping on and
away you go!
text Maartje Diepstraten
7
Kerry Murray, Mirjam Bleeker, Taverne
IN AMSTERDAM, bikes are more numerous than people. They are
simply everywhere and come in all forms, from utilitarian barrow bikes to
ramshackle rust buckets. The Dutch capital is considered to be one of the
most bike-friendly cities in the world. The city centre's narrow streets
mean that two wheels are often faster than four. Once saddled up, the
locals become one with their fiets (bike) as they navigate across tram lines
and pavements, weaving effortlessly between anything in their path – laden
with an improbable cargo of pets, children, groceries or, in winter, even
Christmas trees. Seeing is believing. Traffic lights are merely decoration
to the seasoned rider, who usually aims to complete a journey without
stopping. Touching the ground with a foot is for amateurs. And the locals
– Amsterdammers – are anything but, pedalling a combined two million
1. Dining with a view of the NEMO museum 2. Anna + Nina 3. View of the Westerkerk
4. Henri Willig cheese 5. Plants at the Bilderdijkstraat 6. Breakfast at CT Coffee and
Coconuts 7. Restaurant Mossel & Gin

58 / TRAVEL / Amsterdam
kilometres every single day. The bike reigns supreme when it comes to
getting around and exploring. And with 500 km of cycle lanes, there’s no
time to waste.
GRAND CENTRAL
The keys have been handed over and you’re now the proud owner of a
Dutch bike, at least for a day. Where to start? After a quick spin around
the block to get the hang of it, you might as well dive straight into the
thick of things and hit the busy (but fun) Haarlemmerstraat with its trendy
shops. It will take you to the iconic 17th-century canals that make up this
bustling UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bumpy cobblestones and
arched bridges are not only a picture-perfect backdrop for the ultimate
selfie, they are also good for refining those cycling skills. Take a moment
on the pretty Papiermolensluis to enjoy the canal view with Papeneiland
café on the corner. It’s a scene that has changed little in the 375 years
since the red-brick café was built. A little further along is Noordermarkt,
with its busy Monday and Saturday markets.
This is the edge of the Jordaan neighbourhood. The meandering streets
follow the pattern of ditches and paths that shaped the area centuries
ago, so if you get a little lost here, that’s only normal. It’s also the best
way to run into that amazing antique store or insider’s haunt that you
won’t find in your guidebook. One street lined with modern galleries and
cute shops looks as charming as the next, so it becomes hard to tell them
apart. Developed in the 17th century to accommodate the proletariat,
today the secret courtyards, gabled houses and proximity to the canals
have made it a highly sought-after residential area.
This part of the Jordaan is also a hot favourite for a lazy afternoon
coffee, which is served Dutch-style with a bite-sized biscuit. Try the hip
coffee bar Toki past Brouwersgracht, or grab a sandwich for lunch a few
metres away, at Small World. There is also a traditional Italian restaurant,
Koevoet, named after the wealthy family who originally lived here.
Ingredients are imported from southern Italy but the decor is classic
Dutch, with wooden floorboards and stained-glass doors.
Criss-crossing through this historical district, you’ll no doubt pass the
Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht, where the Jewish wartime diarist
and her family lived in hiding during the Second World War. It’s easily
recognisable by the long queue in front. Cross the Rozengracht to take a
break at the Pulitzer Hotel. It’s a handy stopover anytime of day, with
lobby café Pause for breakfast, restaurant Jansz. for lunch, a garden for
those beautiful sunny days, and the Pulitzer Bar for cocktails. Every year
in mid-August, a free classical concert is staged on floating pontoons
right in front. And for the occasion, Amsterdammers swap their bikes for
boats, filling the canal to form a tight-knit floating audience.
Next up is a string of nine cosy streets collectively known as the
eponymous De 9 Straatjes (look for Maison Rika). This is boutique
shopping at its best, so it’s high time to put that handy basket on the
front of your bike to good use. You might try restaurant Breda (which is
just north of De 9 Straatjes) for quality dining. And if you’re longing for a
taste of old and authentic Amsterdam, then sample the gin at tasting
house Proeflokaal A. van Wees – a perfect example of how traditional
culture has been embraced by young locals.
SOUTHSIDE
Unlike the Jordaan, the southern part of Amsterdam, or Zuid, is
traditionally associated with ‘old money’. The neighbourhood starts at
With 880,000 bikes
and a population of
just over 800,000,
Amsterdam counts more
bikes than people
EAT & DRINK
Restaurant Koevoet, Lindenstraat 17,
koevoetamsterdam.com
Restaurant Breda, Singel 210,
breda-amsterdam.com
Pulitzer, Prinsengracht 315-331,
pulitzeramsterdam.com
Proeflokaal A. van Wees, Herengracht
319, proeflokaalvanwees.nl
CT Coffee and Coconuts, Ceintuurbaan
282-284, coffeeandcoconuts.com
Het Rijk van de Keizer, Joris van den
Berghweg 101-111, hetrijkvandekeizer.nl
De Foodhallen, Bellamyplein 51,
foodhallen.nl
Graceland BAR-B-Q, Jan van
Galenstraat 8, gracelandbbq.com
tHUIS aan de AMSTEL, Korte
Ouderkerkerdijk 45, thuisaandeamstel.nl
Vergulden Eenhoorn, Ringdijk 58,
verguldeneenhoorn.nl
SLEEP
B&B Villa Nicola, Nicolaas Witsenkade
21, villanicolaamsterdam.com
B&B Bed and Buffet, Lijnbaansgracht
289-1, buffet-amsterdam.nl/bed-enbuffet
Kith and Kin Hotel, Amaliastraat 20,
kithandkin.nl
Morgan & Mees, Tweede Hugo de
Grootstraat 2-6, morganandmees.com
DO
Adam Toren, Overhoeksplein 1,
adamtoren.nl
Amsterdam Vélo, Korte Prinsengracht
12, amsterdam-velo.com
Vondelpark, main entrance at
Stadhouderskade (near Leidseplein)
FOAM Photography Museum,
Keizersgracht 609, foam.org
1. Bar Bukowski 2. The Royal Palace at Dam square 3. Barbershop HaarBarbaar
4. Conservatorium Hotel Entrance 5. Garden of the Rijksmuseum 6. Coffee bar
Toki 7. Historical canal houses 8. Beer café De Drie Fleschjes 9. Bitterballen
(typical Dutch snack)

TRAVEL / 59
2
1 3
4
5
8
Mirjam Bleeker, Kerry Murray, Alamy
6 7 9

60 / TRAVEL / Amsterdam
1
2
3
4

TRAVEL / 61
5
6
Vondelpark, which is overlooked by some of the city’s most expensive
real estate. It should come as no surprise then that the classy shopping
street, P.C. Hooftstraat, is located here. From high-end fashion (including
big designer brands like Gucci, Prada, Armani and Hermès) to stellar
art, the country’s most famous museums – Stedelijk, Van Gogh and
Rijksmuseum – are just around the corner. The latter even has a dual
cycle-lane going right through its centre. If you plan to visit them, it’s
worth buying a ticket online beforehand to avoid a long wait.
Traditional Dutch gezelligheid, or conviviality, is plentiful in the Pijp
area of the South. Parallel to the Albert Cuyp Market is Gerard Doustraat,
which is home to hip concept stores, cafés and dining spots. Enjoy
tasty oysters at Brut de Mer, and for a healthy, original lunch, head to
CT Coffee and Coconuts in a striking old Art Deco cinema on nearby
Ceintuurbaan. It caters to a mixed crowd ranging from young mothers
with prams to freelancers with laptops.
GlouGlou is not far away. This wine bar only serves vins naturels
(pure wines) and the clientele is convinced that in addition to a superior
taste, the wine also has the unique property of being hangover-free,
which could account for the extra-bubbly atmosphere. For a wrap or poke
bowl (Hawaiian raw-fish dish), you need to be at the new Temakery, while
Soi 74 will satisfy those craving Thai food. The Butcher is the place for
burgers and Calle Ocho is perfect for South American cuisine. And when
it comes to Japanese food, De Japanner is right next door and always
busy, for good reason.
GO WEST
Amsterdam West has a growing number of culinary gems. But you
need to know where to look because they’re as diverse as the demographic,
which is estimated to include some 180 nationalities citywide. Try the
chicken satay at the sunny Indonesian Café Amoi on Kinkerstraat. A
minor detour across Bilderdijkstraat brings you to Asian streetfood
restaurant Happyhappyjoyjoy. With colourful signs and a ceiling of red
umbrellas, the interior by award-winning design agency Concrete is as
much of a draw as the food.
Further west is De Hallen, a renovated tram depot that currently
houses shops, weekend markets, a library, cinema and bicycle mechanic.
Under the same roof is Foodhallen: the most popular indoor food market
in Amsterdam. Choose from sushi, pizza, Vietnamese banh mi rolls, and
Mediterranean meze, all within a few paces of each other. Or, if southern
slow food is your thing, Graceland BAR-B-Q is a must: the restaurant on
Jan van Galenstraat undeniably offers the best of Louisiana and jailhouse
rock to the max, packaged in a Dutch timber shed.
For those who have really caught the cycling bug, there’s a lovely
route that takes you to an idyllic locale among the pastureland at the
edge of Amsterdam: Het Rijk van de Keizer. Sip organic lemonade and
enjoy homemade pies while lounging in a hammock, or a sawn-through
Mercedes recycled into a seat – the ideal place to relax with a good book.
EASTERN PROMISE
Amsterdam East, or Oost, as it is called here, is the new Amsterdam
West, in a manner of speaking – the area has become increasingly popular
since the spike in housing prices in West. The area is one of the city’s most
multicultural. Here you can find a Moroccan supermarket located next to
a quirky cocktail bar, a Turkish bakery next to an Aussie-style coffee
shop, and masses of students spilling out onto the terrace of Brouwerij
’t IJ, Amsterdam’s most famous craft-beer brewery, set inside an old
windmill. On a bike everything is within easy reach and Oosterpark
7
Mirjam Bleeker, Alamy
1. Conservatorium Hotel lobby 2. Restaurant De Kas 3. CT Coffee & Coconuts
4. Cycling in the Vondelpark 5. A canal bridge 6. Café Papeneiland 7. Bar Botanique

62 / TRAVEL / Amsterdam
is no exception, only a few traffic lights away from the brewery. In this
haven of green, summer turns the grass into a patchwork of picnics in
the shady spots underneath the trees. Cross the park and railway overpass
to Javastraat. Here, trendy bars like The Walter Woodburybar, The
Walrus & The Carpenter, Bar Basquiat and popular restaurant Wilde
Zwijnen are dotted among the mobile phone shops. Or, if the weather is
nice, park your bike while you sunbathe and down a cool drink at Roest,
an urban beach and bar hidden behind Czaar Peterstraat.
Well-worth the extra pedal along the beautiful Amstel river is tHuis
aan de Amstel, a café-restaurant with a gallery, in a manor house along
the water. Or try the Vergulden Eenhoorn, a rustic eatery in an original
farmhouse dating from 1702. In eclectic Oost, it’s all possible.
UP NORTH
Amsterdam Noord (North) has an altogether different vibe. You
could call it the Brooklyn of the Netherlands. This raw, industrial terrain
across the IJ river has undergone a massive transformation and is still being
regenerated. Once unfashionable, Amsterdam North has now become
a hub for young creatives who come to work and play.
To get there, catch one of the free ferries behind Central Station. And
you don’t even have to get off your bike. Take the ferry going directly to
the opposite embankment and before you have time to zip up your coat
(it gets rather breezy out on the water), you’ll have arrived. Cycle east for
about 10 minutes to Gedempte Hamerkanaal. Still somewhat off-the
beaten-path, foodies come here for restaurant Hotel de Goudfazant (not
actually a hotel), which is a short walk from Gedempte Hamerkanaal. It’s
one of the region’s early pioneers, with an open kitchen built in a garage.
Inside are simple red chairs, wooden tables with white linen, and a
half-dismantled car engine sitting in a corner right next to the piano.
It has been a favourite gourmand hotspot for years. The neighbouring
boho-chic Hangar is also quite something; on sunny days you can find
a lovely spot next to the water. Both restaurants are beside (cult-film)
cinema and wine bar FC Hyena, with Skatecafe located just a little
further. Don’t expect a grungy half pipe, but a hipster-proof skate and
dining address with good music and daily specials for under €10.
Northwest is the NDSM Wharf. Where once mammoth tankers were
built and launched, now people come to dance at any number of the
weekend festivals held here in summer. Or they pick and mix vintage
goods at the enormous monthly flea market. In 2018, the NDSM Wharf
will be home to the largest street art museum in Europe.
Further north is De Ceuvel. There’s nothing quite like it. This former
wasteland has been built up into a garden of disused houseboats towed
onto land and connected with a raised wooden-walkway. The boats act as
offices for startups with a social or sustainable ideology. There is also a
waterside café serving organic, locally sourced ingredients such as oyster
mushrooms grown on coffee grinds. The whole place serves as a cultural
and creative hub, and varied workshops and events here make this more
than just a pleasant place to soak up some sun. Round off the day at
A’dam Toren, right by the ferry dock – and perhaps splurge on a room at
the new four-star rock’n’roll-style Sir Adam hotel. This landmark tower
was formerly the premises of Dutch oil company Shell, and is located
next to the EYE filmmuseum (a must-see). Nowadays, the building is
home to a host of music companies, three restaurants, and a bar. The
ultra-brave can swing back and forth over the edge on Europe’s highest
swing, 100 m from the ground. But even from the safety of the skydeck,
the view of the city is absolutely spectacular.
1. The Nightwatch at Rijksmuseum 2. Bridge across the Amstel River 3. Restaurant
De Kas 4. Bicycle underpass at Rijksmuseum 5. Restaurant Mazzo 6. Breakfast at
Conservatorium Hotel 7. Flower shop and café Wildernis
Once unfashionable,
Amsterdam North
has now become a hub
for young creatives
who come to work
and play
PEDAL POWER
Five top tips to get you up to speed on
cycling Dutch-style.
Before you go
1 For a quick, funny and
informative online introduction to
bike riding in Amsterdam, check
out the ‘bike instructor’ series by
local comedian Maxim Hartman.
There are 14 ‘lessons’. Find
them at iamsterdam.com.
2 Rental
Plenty of companies rent out
bikes and many also offer their
own English-speaking tours,
like Amsterdam Vélo. Their
understated cycles blend in well
with local bikes.
3 Signalling
Before turning, stick out your
hand to signal in which direction
you plan to go. It avoids sudden
surprises for traffic behind you.
4 Lights
It is compulsory to use lights
on your bike when cycling at
night. Be safe. Make sure that
you are seen.
5 Parking
With so many similar-looking
bikes around, the hardest thing
about parking your bike, apart
from locking it, is to remember
where you put it. Tip: take a photo!
Kenya Airways operates daily, direct
flights to Amsterdam from Nairobi’s Jomo
Kenyatta International Airport. Visitors to
the Netherlands require a short stay visa or
Schengen visa. Foreign nationals from the
EU, EEA or Switzerland are exempt from the
visa requirement.

TRAVEL / 63
1
2
3
Mirjam Bleeker, Kerry Murray, Alamy, Hollandse Hoogte, Souraya Hassan/Bintihome.nl
4
5 6 8
7

64 / TRAVEL / Quiz
Guess
and Win
Here are six clues about a KENYAN
AIRWAYS destination. Which country are
we referring to? Send us your guess and we
may send you a gift.
text Natascha Mijnhart
1
A grand UNESCO World Heritage Site lies in the
south-eastern hills of this country. From the 11th – 15th
century, this ARCHAEOLOGICAL site – the largest of
southern Africa – used to be the capital of a powerful
ancient kingdom, after which today’s Republic is named.
2
MULTI-TALENTED American author, filmmaker, hip-hop
musician and professor of creative writing, M.K. Asante
was born here. His African-American parents – both
accomplished scholars in African-American and African
culture – have also worked in this country.
3
This country’s capital city is not just its financial centre, but
also a major, lively trade hub for tobacco, corn, COTTON
and citrus fruit.
4
Dance is an essential element of this nation’s culture, with
12 dominant traditional DANCES, including the Jerusarema
and the Muchongoyo.
5
The Chinese have rice, the Italians have pasta, and the
people from this nation have a staple called SADZA.
6
Besides football, CRICKET is immensely popular here,
resulting in many talented first-class cricketers, such as
Tarisai Musakanda and Ryan Burl.
Do you know the country? Post your answer to Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using #msafiriquiz. Each month,
Kenya Airways will pick a winner and surprise him or her with a gift. Correspondence about the quiz results will not be possible.
Alamy, Getty Images

66 / WILDLIFE / Conservation

WILDLIFE / 67
GAME
CHANGERS
International CELEBRITIES such as Ivorian
footballer Yaya Touré and Vietnamese
pop star Thu Minh TEAMED UP with
the United Nations’ Wild for Life campaign
to fight wildlife crime.
text Nina Siegal
IN RECENT YEARS, Thu Minh
has been a judge on the hit Vietnamese
TV show The Voice of Vietnam, and has
won the championship in the Vietnamese
version of Dancing with the Stars. But
lately, you’re as likely to see her appearing
at charity events with British Royals to
promote the cause of wildlife protection
or speaking out at home against the
poaching of the endangered rhinoceros.
There was a time not so long ago,
though, she says, when she believed that
animal body parts like rhino horns,
could heal injuries and prevent illness.
“Although I never used rhino horn, my
friends – many of them successful and
wealthy – used to tell me that it worked
as a cure for all sorts of things,” she
recalls. “But then I started to read up on
the science and soon learnt that rhino
horn has absolutely no medicinal
purpose; it is the same substance as a
human fingernail. I travelled to South
Africa and saw first-hand how a
misplaced belief, which is peddled by
fake healers who are only interested in
money, could lead to the extinction of
one of Earth’s oldest animals. It has
already happened in my home country
with the loss of one of our national
treasures, the Javan rhino, the last of
which was killed in 2011 by poachers
who hacked off its horn.”
This experience encouraged her to
speak out against the criminal trade in
rhino horn and the poachers who supply
criminal traders, she says, “even if to do
so meant alienating my peers and my
friends.” Minh is one of 13 international
celebrities who are leading Wild For
Life, the United Nations’ campaign that
aims to mobilise millions of people in the
process of raising awareness, activating
the public and making sure that
consumers are better informed. Chinese
actress Li Bingbing, American actor Ian
Somerhalder and Lebanese performer
Ragheb Alama, all UN Environment
Ambassadors, are among the other 35
prominent cultural figures who have
signed up for the campaign, Wildlife
Crime Just Got Personal.
SPIKE IN DEMAND
The number of South African
rhinos slaughtered for their horn has
soared in recent years. About 1,000 are
Kenya Airways has joined forces with the
UN Environment Wild for Life campaign
to help eliminate the illicit global trade in
animal parts that is driving many species to
the brink of extinction. To learn more about
KQ’s efforts, see wildfor.life/campaigncollaborators.

68 / WILDLIFE / Conservation
“If you know someone who
uses rhino horn, tell them to take
aspirin to cure their hangover”
killed each year – most of them in the
eastern Kruger National Park, where
poachers sneak across the boarder from
Mozambique, says South Africa’s Department
of Environmental Affairs.
Efforts to prevent such border crossings
have reduced those numbers by about 15
percent from 2015 to 2016, according to
a September report, but much more
needs to be done. There are only about
5,000 black rhinos remaining.
Most of the demand comes from
Vietnam, where horns are “worth more
than their weight in gold”, according to
Bloomberg business news. Traditional
Chinese medicine practitioners, who
operate throughout Asia, have used the
horn for centuries, but demand was
relatively low until the 2000s, when a
rumour spread that a Vietnamese policeman
had cured his own cancer by
eating the horn, reports The Atlantic.
This only partially explains a spike in
demand. “Even as rhino horn appears to
be gaining repute as an emergency drug
for dire conditions, it is also being used in
new ways more akin to recreation,” found
a 2012 report from Traffic, a wildlife
trade monitoring network. “In Vietnam,
rhino horn ‘has recently been used as a
powerful aphrodisiac’ according to a
primary traditional medicinal text, but
the most common usage, according to
recent news reports and research
undertaken by Traffic, appears to be
as a...drink to soothe a hangover.”
WE CAN ALL HELP
That’s where celebrities like Minh
have an opportunity to help make a
difference. “We all have a role to play,
and our actions can be as local as the
choices we make at our grocery store,”
she says. “For individuals, that means
avoiding fads that threaten species. It
means shopping carefully to avoid buying
illegally sourced products and it
means supporting conservation efforts
that urge authorities to get serious about
the illegal wildlife trade and provide

WILDLIFE / 69
“The campaign needs every one
of us to do what we can, in our own
way, to counter the illegal trade
in all its forms”
Wild for Life
by the numbers
The campaign has:
• reached over 1 billion
people worldwide
• generated 4.5 million
social media reactions
• engaged 35 celebrity voices
• inspired 15,000
pledges to take action
by using one's own sphere
of influence
• inspired 40,000 people
to choose a
kindred species, do
the morph and share it on
social media
support at the grassroots level.”
She adds, “Don’t be fooled by those
who falsely believe that rhino horn can
make you feel better. If you know
someone who uses it, tell them to take
aspirin to cure their hangover or to seek
proper medical advice from a qualified
doctor for a more serious ailment.”
The head of the UN Environment
programme, Erik Solheim, says that
rhinos are just one of the many species
threatened by poaching and trafficking.
“These threats are made worse by
the loss of habitats around the world, as
agriculture, extractive industries and
human populations expand,” he says.
“We need to make sure that consumers
are better informed and able to ‘connect
the dots’ on the implications of their
purchases. We also need to make sure
that the next generation is much more
invested in decision-making that
supports sustainable development.”
REVERSING A LEGACY
Yaya Touré, a four-time African
Footballer of the Year and goodwill
ambassador for the UN Environment
programme from the Côte D’Ivoire,
points out that his country’s history is
closely tied to the fate of the elephant –
so much so that it got its name from the
trade in ivory, Les Éléphants.
“It’s a leftover from the days of
European merchants and adventurers,
whose primary interest in that part of
West Africa was its ability to supply
massive quantities of precious ivory,”
says Touré, the former captain of the
Côte D’Ivoire National Team, who is
now a central midfielder for Manchester
City Football Club. “Who knows how
many elephants were slaughtered to
supply it? Five centuries later, ivory
trading remains a lucrative international
business. But we have only a few hundred
elephants left in Côte d’Ivoire.”
And, he adds, the destruction isn’t
limited to the elephant population alone.
“As you learn more about wildlife crime,
you realise that it does far more damage
than just endangering well-known and
much-loved species such as the elephant,
rhino or tiger,” says Touré. “Thousands
of other species are threatened, such as
pangolins, apes, sea turtles, hornbills
and rare orchids, as well as tree species
such as rosewood.”
Touré got involved in the Wild for
Life campaign because he likes its focus
on emboldening every individual to take
action, wherever they are in the world.
“This can mean saying no to
products like ivory and rhino horn in
consuming countries, or taking pride
and protecting our African wildlife right
here so that it does not end up on a
plate or as a status symbol in a country
far away,” he says. “The campaign needs
every one of us to do what we can, in
our own way, to counter the illegal trade
in all its forms. No one should poach,
buy, sell, traffic or turn a blind eye to
these illegal products.”
• been awarded by
Weibo as a Top 10 most
influential advocacy campaign
in China
• been awarded with a 2017
People’s Voice Webby
for Best Green Website
The celebrities who have joined the Wild for Life campaign have all identified a kindred
species to protect. To hear more about them, and to take a quiz to find out your own
kindred species, go to wildfor.life.

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Cooperative (“KPMG International”), a Swiss entity. All rights reserved.

ENTERTAINMENT / 71
Kenya Airways
offers its passengers
complimentary inflight
entertainment.
The programme will
vary in different aircraft
types. Check your
screen to view the
selection on your flight.
Relax & Enjoy
Discover our complimentary blockbusters, new releases,
African films, all-time favourites, Bollywood films, TV, audio and
games during your flight. These are this season’s highlights.
The LEGO Batman Movie
(read more on page 78)
“Black. All important movies start
with a black screen. And music.
Dark, edgy music that makes your
parents nervous’’
– Batman, The LEGO Batman Movie –
MOVIE RATINGS
G Suitable for all ages PG Some material may not be suitable for children PG-13 Some material may be inapproriate for children under 13
R Under-17s should watch only with parental approval Please note: at certain periods of the month the programming may differ from that shown.

72 / ENTERTAINMENT
New Releases
Biography
Hidden
Figures
Following in the footsteps of
Afican-American-perspective films
Moonlight (a 2017 Oscars winner) and
Fences, comes Hidden Figures, another
popular film to receive wide media
coverage. A drama about three black
women who worked as human ‘computers’
at NASA, Hidden Figures documents
how they helped launch the American
astronaut John Glenn into orbit in 1962
– boosting the nation’s confidence and
turning around the Space Race.
Hidden Figures (2016) BIOGRAPHY
Watch Hidden Figures on-board Kenya Airways now, and marvel at the
mind-boggling maths on show!
Taraji P. Henson, Octavia Spencer. PG, 127 mins. Director: Theodore Melfi
Our fascination with space has fuelled
a huge amount of Hollywood output,
from sci-fi blockbusters like Star Wars
to tear-jerking classics like Apollo 13,
but this latest story is grounded in fact
and concentrated on the exceptional
behind-the-scenes figures who made
space-travel possible in the first place.
Talented actors Taraji P. Henson,
Octavia Spencer and Janelle Monáe
play real-life female mathematicians
Katherine Johnson, Dorothy Vaughan
and Mary Jackson. Henson portrays
Johnson, a gifted mathematician who
was awarded the Medal of Freedom
in 2015 for her contribution to
space exploration.
Collateral Beauty (2016) DRAMA
Retreating from life after a tragedy, a man questions the universe by writing to
Love, Time and Death. He receives unexpected answers.
Will Smith, Edward Norton. PG-13, 97 mins. Director: David Frankel
Despite being so accomplished at their
jobs, however, the women faced racial
bias in the form of segregation, which
seeped into the bubble of the NASA
workplace and is captured sensitively
on film by director Theodore Melfi.
Did you know
~ Neil Armstrong’s son, Mark Armstrong, makes a cameo in one scene
in which Paul Stafford is addressing a group of NASA engineers.
~ Pharrell Williams was a producer on the film, wrote original songs and
handled the soundtrack.
Table 19 (2017) COMEDY
A dumped ex-maid of honour decides to attend the wedding anyway, only to
find herself seated with five ‘random’ guests at the dreaded Table 19.
Anna Kendrick, Lisa Kudrow. PG-13, 87 mins. Director: Jeffrey Blitz

ENTERTAINMENT / 73
Classics
The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) ADVENTURE
The adventures of a legendary concierge at a famous hotel from the
fictional Republic of Zubrowka between the first and second World Wars.
Ralph Fiennes, F. Murray Abraham. R, 99 mins. Director: Wes Anderson
Fist Fight (2017) COMEDY
When one school teacher gets the other fired, he is challenged to an
after-school fight.
Ice Cube, Charlie Day, Tracy Morgan. R, 91 mins. Director: Richie Keen
He Named Me Malala (2015) DOCUMENTARY
An intimate portrait of Nobel Peace Prize Laureate Malala Yousafzai, who
was severely wounded by a Taliban gunshot when she was 15.
Malala Yousafzai. PG-13, 88 mins. Director: Davis Guggenheim
Assassin’s Creed (2016) ACTION
When Callum Lynch explores his ancestor’s memories, he gains a Master
Assassin’s skills and discovers his connection to the secret Assassins society.
Michael Fassbender. PG-13, 115 mins. Director: Justin Kurzel
The Revenant (2015) ADVENTURE
A frontiersman on a fur-trading expedition in the 1820s fights for survival
after being mauled by a bear and left for dead by his own hunting team.
Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Hardy. R, 156 mins. Director: Alejandro Iñárritu
Gone Girl (2014) CRIME
After the disappearance of his wife becomes a media circus, a seemingly
innocent man becomes a suspect.
Ben Affleck, Rosamund Pike. R, 149 mins. Director: David Fincher

74 / ENTERTAINMENT
African Highlights
Nightrunners
As Crazy as it Gets
Grigris
Film
Picks from
the continent
We have selected the best of current African cinema,
including drama and comedy.
Nightrunners (2015) THRILLER
Thriller based on a true local legend. Isobel travels to a remote,
malaria-plagued island to help out at the local orphanage.
Esther Asinga, Teresa Asinga, Mary Etuku. NR, 88 mins.
Director: Rowan Nielsen
First Class (2016) COMEDY
After an illiterate business owner is defrauded by his wife, he uses the
incident as an incentive to enrol in primary school.
Ruth Kadiri, Peggy Ovire, Lepacious Bose. PG-13, 117 mins.
Director: Ike Nnaebue
Grigris (2013) DRAMA
Despite his paralyzed leg, Grigris dreams of being a dancer. His hopes are
dashed when his stepfather falls critically ill and he must traffic petrol to
save him.
Souleymane Démé. NR, 101 mins. Director: Mahamat-Saleh Haroun
Mum, Dad meet Sam
As Crazy as it Gets (2015) ROMANCE
A man who is about to propose to his girlfriend gets a shock when a
heavily pregnant woman appears on his doorstep demanding that he
takes responsibility.
Omoni Oboli, Chuks Chyke, Aisha Tisham. PG-13, 106 mins.
Director: Shittu Taiwo
Safe Bet (2015) COMEDY
When Frank’s friend Khaya turns up with a money-making scheme, Frank
is tempted into throwing all his boss’ money into a fixed boxing match.
Wandile Molebatsi, Godfrey Thobejane, Lutuli Dlamini. PG-13, 91 mins.
Director: Carl Roddam
Mum, Dad meet Sam (2014) COMEDY
Josiah and Samantha meet and fall in love. He takes her home to meet
his family in Nigeria, where a supposed special occasion turns into their
worst nightmare.
Tomasz Dabrowski, Amanda Smith, Emily Lucienne. PG-13, 94 mins.
Director: Tony Sebastian Ukpo
Moth To A Flame (2016) DRAMA
A poor woman must drive a taxi to pay her father’s medical bills, until a
strange encounter with an arrogant businessman improves her situation.
Femi Jacobs, Shaffy Bello, Kiki Omeili. PG-13, 107 min. Director: Onesoul
The Wedding (2017) DRAMA
A Yoruba doctor proposes to his Igbo girlfriend only to feel the wrath of
their respective mothers, whose tribalistic prejudices threaten the union.
Jide Kosoko, Desmond Elliot, Blossom Chijekwu. PG-13, 107 mins.
Director: Desmond Elliot

ENTERTAINMENT / 75
Bollywood
We selected some recent action, drama and romance
titles from India’s Hindi-language cinema.
Pink (2016) DRAMA
When three young women – Minal Arora, Falak
Ali and Andrea – are implicated in a crime,
retired lawyer Deepak Sehgal steps forward to
help them clear their names.
Tapsee Pannu, Kirti Kulhari. PG-13, 136 mins.
Director: Aniruddha Roy Chowdhury
A Flying Jatt (2016) ACTION
Aman, a meek youngster who is scared of
heights, discovers superpowers when he is
forced to face the evil Raka, who is sent by an
industrialist to destroy humanity.
Tiger Shroff, Jacqueline Fernandez, Nathan
Jones. G, 151 mins. Director: Remo
Film
Picks from
Bollywood
Baaghi (2016) ROMANCE
An ex-military agent goes into hiding for a
mission. He has a bounty on his head, and the
best hunter in town is on the chase. But they
have a common enemy.
Shraddha Kapoor, Tiger Shroff, Sudheer Babu
Posani. PG-13, 133 mins. Director: Sabir Khan
Rough Book (2016) DRAMA
Rough Book is a look at the education system
in contemporary India. Despite being one of
the finest education systems in the world, gaps
within it have created problems.
Tannishtha Chatterjee. PG-13, 100 mins.
Director: Ananth Narayan Mahadevan
Pink
“We should save
our boys, not the
girls. Because if
we save our boys,
our girls will
be safe”
– Pink –
Baaghi

76 / ENTERTAINMENT
TV
Kenya III
Rush Hour
Empire Fiba Arrow
Small Screen
Programmes
& Series
We selected the best TV comedies, drama, sports
and lifestyle programmes for your entertainment.
Comedy
The Grinder, Season 1, Episodes 1-7 A man returns home after a stint
in Hollywood and attempts to run his family’s law firm.
Just for Laughs, Season 13, Episode 8 and Season 16, Episode 1
People find themselves captured on camera in strange situations.
Ground Floor, Season 1, Episodes 1, 2 & 3 A young banker falls for a
woman who works in his building’s maintenance department.
The Crazy Ones, Season 1, Episode 1 & 2 Out-of-the-box Simon Roberts
runs an ad agency with his Type-A daughter Sydney.
Sports
Cape Epic 2016 A look at the 13th edition of the Absa Cape Epic in which
mountain bikers tackle an eight-day adventure through the Western Cape.
Maradona A show devoted to the profile of Diego Armando Maradona, who
is widely recognised as one of the greatest footballers of all time.
Hooked On Cricket Season 2, Episode 1 Jonty Rhodes takes the No.1.
ranked test bowler in the world and South African legend Dale Steyn to
Namibia to see what it takes to be the best.
Discovery
England (our london)
London, England’s capital, set on the River Thames, is a 21st-century city
with history stretching back to Roman times.
Kenya III (Ol Pejeta Conservancy) The Ol Pejeta Conservancy is a 360 km 2
non-profit wildlife conservancy in Central Kenya’s Laikipia County.
Tanzania IV (Serengeti) Join us to explore the different forms of vegetation
of the Serengeti ecosystem and meet some of their fascinating inhabitants.
Thailand X (Bangkok) With a long, two-part coastline, and jungle-topped
islands anchored in azure waters, Thailand is a dream tropical getaway.
News
CNN Marketplace Africa A look at how public and private interests fuel
demand for art from African countries.
Tech Transformers He famously Tweeted himself into becoming Uber’s first
employee. Ryan Graves details his and the cab-service’s meteoric rise.
High Flyers Season 4, Episode 2 CXA, Asia’s first employee-benefits
marketplace, is attracting companies like Google and American Express.
Drama
Arrow Season 4, Episodes 1 & 2 Spoiled billionaire playboy Oliver Queen is
missing and presumed dead when his yacht is lost at sea. He returns five
years later to clean up the city as a hooded vigilante armed with a bow.
Empire Season 2, Episodes 1 & 2 A hip-hop mogul must choose between
his three sons who are battling for control over his multi-million dollar
company, while his ex-wife schemes to get what’s hers.
The 100 Season 2, Episodes 3 & 4 Set 97 years after a nuclear war has
destroyed civilization, a spaceship housing humanity’s lone survivors sends
100 juvenile delinquents back to Earth in hopes of re-populating the planet.
Gotham, Season 2, Episodes 1 & 2. The story behind Detective James
Gordon’s rise to prominence in Gotham City before Batman’s arrival.

ENTERTAINMENT / 77
Music Channel Explained: The Channel number for
your favourite music programmes is shown at the end
of each description. It's determined by the aircraft type,
so you will need to know what type of aircraft you’re on.
Please check the safety card in front of you.
Audio
Spotlight on
Angélique
Kidjo
In this month’s spotlight section,
we turn to singer-songwriter
Angélique Kidjo,‘Africa’s premier
diva’ according to Time magazine.
A widely celebrated musician, Kidjo is
the first woman to enter Forbes’ list, The
40 Most Powerful Celebrities in Africa.
Her influences range from Afropop to
Jimi Hendrix. Among her wealth of
music, which has returned three Grammys
so far, reside hit songs: Wombo
Lombo, M’Baamba, and Agolo.
KQ Radio (with guest DJ)
Our guest DJs bring you some of Kenya’s
biggest hits. B737 CH. 3
African Classics
The best tunes from classic African artists,
from Angélique Kidjo to Umanji. B737 CH. 4
Jazz
Our highly diverse collection is a must-listen for
the discerning jazz fan. B737 CH. 7
Pop
Enjoy our sampling of today’s most loved pop
music. B737 CH. 8
Dance Hall/Reggae
We offer a fusion of sounds, with a range of
diverse artists. B737 CH. 6
Classical
Sit back and relax to our classical collection’s
awe-inspiring compositions. B737 CH. 5
Chinese Pop
The perfect selection for exploring the sounds
of the Orient. B737 CH.9
Easy Listening
Unwind and take it easy with some laid-back
sounds. B737 CH. 10
Meditation
Sit back, relax and listen to the ultimate
meditation mix. ONLY ON B787 and B777
“You have to stand
for something or you fall
for everything”
– Angélique Kidjo–
Alamy

78 / ENTERTAINMENT
Kids
Comedy
Lego
Batman
The sequel to box-office success
The LEGO Movie, The LEGO
Batman Movie once again features
Will Arnett, who reprises his role
as playboy Bruce Wayne and his
alter ego, Batman.
Things are changing in Gotham. The
new Commisoner, Gordon's daughter,
plans to restructure the police
department and cease involvement with
Batman, who has also incurred the
Joker’s wrath by insinuating that his
arch-nemesis is unimportant. Amidst the
ensuing chaos, Batman is forced to take
responsibility for Dick Grayson, a young
ward he renames…Robin.
Will Arnett, Michael Cera, Rosario
Dawson. PG, 104 mins.
Film and TV
The Ones to Watch
These are the most popular films from our selection.
If you’ve already seen these, take your pick
from this season’s selection of 35 family and kids films.
The Peanuts Movie
Snoopy and his team take to the
skies to pursue their arch-nemesis,
while Charlie Brown begins his own
epic quest back home to win the
love of his life.
Noah Schnapp, Bill Melendez,
Hadley Belle Miller. PG, 93 mins.
Yogi Bear
A documentary filmmaker travels to
Jellystone Park to shoot a project
and soon crosses paths with Yogi
Bear, his sidekick Boo-Boo, and
Ranger Smith.
Dan Aykroyd, Justin Timberlake,
Anna Faris. PG, 80 mins.
Star Wars Rebels
A brave and clever ragtag starship
crew stands up against the evil
Empire as it tightens its grip on the
galaxy and hunts down the last of
the Jedi Knights.
Season 2, Episode 1
Doodle’s House
Doodle and his best friends, Peck
and Lady Moomoo, live in a pencil
house: a random, crazy and creative
place where anything and everything
can happen.
Compilation

TRANSLATED / 81
Français & 中 文
Français
82
Mer, sable et safari
84
Réinventer les roues
中 文
87
狂 野 热 带
88
骑 行 畅 游 阿 姆 斯 特 丹

82 / TRANSLATED
Français
Voyage
Mer, sable
et safari
Avec l’une des plus grandes réserves
naturelles d’Afrique, aussi bien
qu'avec cette petite île où s’évader,
le Mozambique est un pays de
contrastes sans pareil, qui ne cesse
d’étonner.
CE NEST PAS VRAIMENT LE
MOMENT de piquer un fou rire. Je suis
allongé face vers le sol sur le bord de la
rivière à quelques mètres seulement
d’une dizaine de géants africains en
train de renâcler et je sens qu’un
gloussement puéril est en train de me
gagner. Cette expérience me ramène
à mon enfance et à l’époque où nous
traversions des champs en rampant,
terrorisés à l’idée que le fermier (un
géant pour nos yeux d’alors) aurait pu
nous voir. Quarante ans plus tard, vous
pourrez penser que j’ai passé l’âge de
ce genre de blagues mais il y a, dans la
brousse africaine, quelque chose qui
réussit toujours à réveiller l’enfant qui
sommeille en nous.
RENCONTRES RAPPROCHÉES
Je me suis souvent retrouvé parmi
les éléphants d’Afrique au cours de mes
innombrables safaris, mais les hardes
très agitées que l’on trouve ici, dans la
réserve de Niassa, au nord du
Mozambique, se comportent
différemment. Ici, les animaux ne
sont pas comme ceux des troupeaux
dénaturés d’autres parties de l’Afrique;
ils sont plus imprévisibles. En fait, ils
sont plus sauvages.
Nic van Rensburg, un ranger du
Lugenda Wilderness Camp, m’avait
prévenu qu’ils étaient capables de
s’égailler comme une volée de moineaux
s’ils décelaient notre présence. D’ailleurs,
Nic avait même été étonné d’entendre
que j’avais réussi à m’approcher aussi
près de cette harde tellement nerveuse :
« Garde la tête baissée mais ne monte
pas les fesses non plus. » Je l’entends
ricaner couché dans l’herbe à côté de
moi. Après avoir passé quelques jours à
explorer le parc, je réalise que Nic a très
certainement passé plus de temps en
symbiose avec la vie sauvage africaine
que n’importe qui, et voir que lui aussi
est sujet à cette excitation enfantine
contribue également à me rassurer. Il
réussit à manœuvrer notre véhicule au
milieu de la piste de ce troupeau de
50 éléphants et me montre où se cacher
pour que, noyés dans l’ombre de la forêt
d’arbres miombo le long de la berge,
nous puissions passer inaperçus tandis
que leurs trompes coupent des branches
juste à coté de nos visages.
EN PLEINE NATURE SAUVAGE
La rivière Lugenda se fraye un
parcours accidenté d’environ 355 km,
depuis le nord du Mozambique, un
ancien territoire portugais jadis appelé
Fim do Mundo (fin du monde) jusqu’à
l’emplacement actuel du parc national
de Niassa. Avec ses 42 000 km², il s’agit
de l’une des plus grandes réserves
protégées d'Afrique. Fondé en 1954, à
l'époque où la côte occidentale africaine
était toujours portugaise, le parc –
comme le Mozambique d’ailleurs – a
connu une histoire mouvementée. On
dit souvent que les éléphants ont une
mémoire... d’éléphant et il se peut que
les matriarches de la harde qui nous
entourait se souviennent de moments
moins pacifiques lorsque le braconnage
sévissait encore ici pour financer la
guérilla. Aujourd'hui, on estime
à environ 20 000, le nombre d’éléphants
en liberté dans ce parc qui couvre
presque deux fois la taille du Rwanda.
Ce géant parmi les réserves africaines
est considéré rassembler environ 70% de
la faune sauvage du Mozambique et, au
dire des connaisseurs en matière de
safari, est l’un des derniers endroits de
nature inviolée. Heureusement, cela ne
signifie pas pour autant que vous devez
y séjourner « à la dure ». Au Lugenda
Wilderness Camp – réserve exclusive au
sein du parc et qui s’étend sur quelque
1000 km² – le niveau de luxe est une
surprise totale. Les huit suites sous
tentes spacieuses sont équipées de lits
king size à baldaquin, de salles de bains
sublimes et de vérandas privée avec vue
sur la rivière Lugenda. Si vous aimez
ce frisson particulier que procure
l’immensité de la brousse africaine et
que vous souhaitez aller au contact d'une
vie sauvage qui se comporte encore
comme telle – mais sans pour autant
sacrifier au confort – vous serez au
paradis. Niassa s’enorgueillit d’environ
14 000 antilopes des sables mais aussi
d'espèces endémiques telles que le gnou
de Niassa, le zèbre de Grant et l'Impala
de Johnston. D’immenses troupeaux de
buffles, de gnous, de zèbres et d'impalas
fournissent suffisamment de proies aux
800 lions et 450 chiens sauvages africains
estimés de la réserve. Les ornithologues
se pressent ici pour observer quelques
400 espèces d’oiseaux locales, et, parmi
elles, les inoubliables faucons Taita et les
circaètes barrés du Sud.
UN VOYAGE DANS LE TEMPS
Peu importe où vous irez. Partout
vous percevrez cette culture spécifique
au Mozambique; une combinaison de
dynamisme portugais et une plongée
dans l’histoire qui remonte au fond des
âges. La présence de cette histoire se
ressent notamment dans la réserve de
Niassa pratiquement inexplorée, et ses
perspectives soudaines et inattendues,
comme à l’aube de l’humanité.
Les Pygmées Batwa, indigènes
« Les ornithologues se
pressent ici pour
observer le spectacle
inoubliable des faucons
Taita et les circaètes
barrés du Sud »

Où séjourner
Le Lugenda Wilderness Camp
Le luxe à l’état sauvage au cœur même de la
splendide réserve de Niassa. Les huit tentes
luxueuses se succèdent le long de la rivière
Lugenda; les dîners sont servis soit dans la
délicieuse salle de restaurant rustique ou –
pour qui souhaiterait une touche romantique
inédite – sur des tables installées sur les
berges du cours d'eau et éclairées aux
chandelles.
L’Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort
La retraite luxueuse par excellence pour qui
veut vraiment se perdre dans les vastes
espaces de l'océan Indien. La toute petite île de
Medjumbe est comme une émeraude entourée
de sables argentés et sertie dans un récif bleu.
En dépit de ses dimensions, l’île propose bien
des activités – plongée, observation des
baleines, sports aquatiques – qui satisferont
même les clients les plus actifs.
Rendez-vous sur: medjumbe.anantara.com
Les Royal Beach Villas du Azura Retreats
Magnifiquement situées et isolées, ces villas de
luxe du complexe hôtelier de charme éco-nature
ont été construites à la main par la communauté
des habitants de l’île de Benguerra, la
deuxième en surface de l’archipel Bazaruto.
Installées au milieu de jardins indigènes,
situées à 30 mètres du front de mer, ces villas
sont richement équipées et s’enorgueillissent
même de proposer un service de majordome.
Rendez-vous sur: azura-retreats.com
L’Ibo Island Lodge
Un lodge de luxe primé sur la principale île
de l’archipel des Quirimbas. Choisissez parmi
les chambres avec vue sur mer, les chambres
historiques ou optez pour une Paradiso
Private Villa assez vaste pour accueillir douze
personnes. Voici l’endroit idéal pour partir à la
découverte du passé de l’île Ibo.
Rendez-vous sur: iboisland.com
Pour plus d'informations sur le tourisme au
Mozambique, rendez-vous sur:
visitmozambique.net
autochtones, ont laissé leur art rupestre
sur plusieurs sites qui conservent encore
aujourd'hui une signification magique
puissante pour les communautés locales.
Je réalise que si les artistes du passé
qui ont fait ces dessins revenaient
aujourd’hui pour observer la scène
depuis ce point de vue élevé, rien ne
trahirait que nous sommes au XXIe
siècle. Pas la moindre trace d’un tarmac,
pas une ligne à haute tension, pas une
fumée trahissant le foyer d’un village et,
comme jadis, tous les environs couverts
des traces laissées par les empreintes
d’animaux.
« Se balader parmi les
bâtiments coloniaux
inspire des rêves de trésors
cachés par les pirates .»
Un total impressionnant de 12% du
Mozambique est actuellement réserve
naturelle protégée. Le parc national de
Gorongosa retrouve petit à petit sa
grandeur passée d’éden africain qu’il
avait avant que le braconnage et la
violence de la guérilla n’y déciment sa
faune. Le parc national de Limpopo, est
lui, une réserve transfrontalière du parc
national sud-africain Kruger. Les parcs
nationaux de Banhine et de Zinave, eux
aussi, retrouvent leurs galons de
destinations de safari lesquelles sont
spectaculairement peu fréquentées par
rapport aux autre régions. Le parc
national de Quirimbas et l’archipel de
Bazaruto offrent une occasion parfaite
de combiner safari terrestre et
observation de la faune sauvage des îles
emblématiques du pays.
L’ÎLE DU BONHEUR
Ce qu’il y a surtout de fascinant
dans ce voyage ce sont les contrastes,
mais aussi le fait que la visite des grands
parcs nationaux du Mozambique peut
facilement se combiner avec celle d’une
des îles, véritables bijoux du pays. Une
heure seulement après avoir décollé de la
piste en terre battue de Niassa dans un
petit Cessna Caravan, j’atterris entre les
étincelants atolls de corail de l’archipel
de Quirimbas sur une île à peine assez
longue pour pouvoir y atterrir. L’île
privée de Medjumbe mesure seulement
800 mètres de long sur 350 mètres de
large; autant le caractère exclusif de
Niassa semble résider dans son
immensité, autant le charme de
Medjumbe est indissociable de sa petite
taille et de l’azur dans lequel elle baigne.
Alors même que l’archipel de
Bazaruto, bien plus connu, ne compte
que 6 îles, celui des Quirimbas en
rassemble 32. Medjumbe est l’une des
plus petites mais aussi l’une des plus
belles. Seulement 30 minutes après
TRANSLATED / 83
l’atterrissage, je me relaxe dans le
jacuzzi, sirotant une bouteille givrée de
« doshem, » cette bière mozambicaine de
la marque 2M. L’Anantara Medjumbe
Island Resort est l’un des complexes du
nord du Mozambique les plus exclusifs
en termes d’hôtel de charme et constitue
la retraite romantique par excellence où
venir se ressourcer après un glorieux
safari au « bout du monde ». Medjumbe
est le summum du luxe décontracté. Le
personnel est rompu aux techniques
permettant de créer cette sensation de
chaleur et d’hospitalité propre au
Mozambique, ce qui fait qu’au bout des
quelques heures seulement sur l’île, vous
vous sentez déjà chez vous aussi bien
dans le lobby si joliment décoré et
meublé que dans votre charmant
bungalow face à la mer avec sa piscine
privée à débordement, laquelle n’attend
que vous.
L’île d’Ibo (d’une petite dizaine de
kilomètres de long) est la plus grande de
l'archipel des Quirimbas. Il s’agit un
comptoir commercial qui était déjà
connu des Arabes, des Indiens, des
Chinois et des Portugais, et une
communauté distante et intacte riche de
500 ans d’histoires de pirates, de
marchands d’esclaves, de chasseurs
d’ivoire et de coloniaux. De la même
manière que l’ancien rocher de Niassa
avec ses décorations rupestres semble
faire écho aux légendes et aux aventures
d'un long passé, les vieux murs de la
chapelle portugaise d’Ibo, ses trois
fortins et ses maisons coloniales
désordonnées, donnent aux rêveurs des
idées de trésors de pirates cachés.
« Nous sommes fiers de notre
histoire, » me disait un jeune garçon
désireux de pratiquer son anglais.
« Notre île peut bien être petite, elle a un
long passé et nous sommes heureux
quand des gens viennent de loin pour la
contempler! »
De retour sur Medjumbe la
minuscule, je tâche de résister à la
tentation de toute activité – plongée
sous-marine, plongée en apnée, kayak,
voile en catamaran, wakeboard et autres
croisières romantiques en boutre – et me
félicite de m’être accordé suffisamment
de temps pour ne rien faire, sinon me
relaxer et m’imprégner d’un sentiment
de pur bonheur tropical. Une
promenade de fin d’après-midi sur les
plages de sable de l’extrémité de l'île
révèle le spectacle d’or liquide scintillant
du soleil couchant sur la vaste étendue
de l’océan indien. On se croirait au bout
du monde.
✈ Réservez votre vol:
kenya-airways.com

84 / TRANSLATED
Français
Voyage
Réinventer
les roues
Pour VIVRE PLEINEMENT
L’EXPÉRIENCE d’Amsterdam,
il vous faut un bon DEUX-ROUES.
Ensuite, il vous suffit de l’enfourcher
POUR PARTIR EN BALADE !
À AMSTERDAM, le vélo est un
élément du mobilier urbain. On en voit
partout, de toutes les tailles, de toutes
les formes, depuis des cargo bikes
utilitaires aux pires tas de rouille les plus
branlants. La capitale des Pays-Bas
passe pour être la ville la plus accessible
aux vélos au monde.
Dans les petites ruelles du centreville,
il apparaît clairement que le
deux-roues est plus rapide que la
voiture. Une fois en selle, les locaux
ne font plus qu’un avec leur vélo et
évoluent entre les rails des trams et les
pavés, zigzagant entre les obstacles et
transportant tout ce que l’on peut
imaginer, des gosses, animaux de
compagnie et commissions au sapin de
sapin de Noël en fin d’année. Il faut le
voir pour le croire. L’objectif est de
n’avoir jamais à poser le pied par terre
avant d’arriver à destination.
Déposer un pied et s’arrêter est
vraiment pour les amateurs. Et les
Amstellodamois sont tout sauf ça car
ils pédalent, tous ensemble, 2 millions
de kilomètres chaque jour. Ici, la
bicyclette est reine, surtout lorsqu’il
s’agit de se balader et de partir à la
découverte. Et, avec 500 km de pistes
cyclables, il n’y a pas une minute à
perdre.
GRAND CENTRAL
On vient de vous remettre les clés de
l’antivol et vous voici heureux
propriétaire d’un vrai vélo hollandais...
du moins pour un jour. Mais par où
commencer ? Après un rapide tour du
pâté de maison pour s’entraîner, on peut
directement se mettre dans le bain en
attaquant la Haarlemmerstraat si
animée (et amusante) avec ses boutiques
branchées. La balade vous conduira le
long des canaux emblématiques du
XVIIe siècle, grouillants de monde et
classés au patrimoine mondial de
l’Unesco. Pavés cahoteux et ponts en
dos-d’âne ne constituent pas
uniquement le décor parfait du selfie
idéal mais ils sont aussi parfaits pour
remettre à jour ses compétences
vélocipédiques. Arrêtez-vous sur la jolie
Papiermolensluis (écluse du moulin à
papier) pour jouir de la vue sur le canal
et sur le Papeneiland café à l’angle. C’est
un endroit qui n’a que très peu changé
depuis les 375 ans que ce café en briques
rouges existe. Un peu plus loin, le
Noordermarkt vous attend avec ses
marchés animés du lundi et du samedi.
Nous sommes ici aux abords du
quartier dit du Jordaan. Ses petites rues
tortueuses suivent le maillage des fossés
et des chemins d’il y a des siècles, de
sorte que, si vous vous égarez..., ce sera
tout à fait normal. C’est d’ailleurs la
meilleure manière de tomber sur cette
brocante incroyable ou sur ces repaires
d’initiés qu’aucun guide touristique ne
mentionne. Cette rue bordée de galeries
modernes et de jolies boutiques est tout
aussi charmante que la suivante, de
sorte qu’il devient vite difficile de les
distinguer. Construites dans le courant
du XVIIe siècle pour y loger les classes
laborieuses, elles cachent aujourd’hui
autant d’entrées vers des courées
secrètes, multiplient les façades àpignons
et, avec la proximité des canaux,
composent une zone résidentielle très
recherchée.
Cette partie du Jordaan est
également un endroit très couru pour un
café relax de l’après-midi servi
naturellement à la hollandaise, c’est à
dire accompagné d’un gâteau sec.
Installez-vous au coffee bar Toki
branché passé le Brouwersgracht ou
attrapez au passage un sandwich pour le
déjeuner quelques mètres plus loin, chez
Small World. On trouve aussi dans le coin
un restaurant italien traditionnel,
Koevoet, baptisé du nom de la puissante
famille qui, à l’origine, résidait ici. Les
ingrédients sont importés du sud de
l’Italie, mais le cadre, lui, est résolument
hollandais, avec parquets de bois et
portes ornées de vitraux.
En flânant dans ce quartier
historique, vous passerez sans aucun
doute devant la maison d’Anne Frank
sur le Prinsengracht, où, pendant la
guerre, la jeune fille juive écrivit son
journal alors qu’elle se cachait avec sa
famille. La maison est facilement
reconnaissable à la longue file d’attente
qui se prolonge sur le trottoir. Traversez
le Rozengracht pour faire un arrêt au
Pulitzer Hotel. C’est une halte commode
« Avec ses 880 000 vélos
pour une population d’à
peine 800 000 âmes,
Amsterdam totalise plus
de bicyclettes que
d'habitants »
à tout moment de la journée avec un
lobby pour le petit-déjeuner, le
restaurant Jans pour le déjeuner de
midi, un jardin pour les journées
ensoleillées et le Pulitzer Bar pour les
cocktails. Tous les ans, à la mi-août, un
concert de musique classique gratuit s’y
déroule sur des pontons flottants juste
devant l’établissement. Pour l’occasion,
les Amstellodamois échangent leurs
bicyclettes pour des embarcations,
embouteillant le canal d’un public
flottant.
Un peu plus loin, on remarquera
le quartier des 9 rues, étroites et
pittoresques, et connu sous le même
nom, De Negen Straatjes (cherchez la

TRANSLATED / 85
Maison Rika). Un lieu de shopping
boutique par excellence; le moment est
donc venu d’accrocher le panier à
l’avant de votre vélo. Il va servir.
Maintenant, c’est parti pour un dîner de
qualité au restaurant Breda. Une envie
soudaine de goûter un vieil Amsterdam
authentique ? Participez à une
dégustation de gin à la maison
Proeflokaal A. van Wees, un exemple
parfait de comment la jeunesse locale
s’est réapproprié la culture
traditionnelle.
CÔTÉ SUD
Au contraire du Jordaan, la partie
Sud d’Amsterdam, Zuid en néerlandais,
est traditionnellement associée à « vieille
fortune ». Le quartier qui commence
aux alentours du Vondelpark est
surveillé par certains agents immobilier
car le plus cher de la ville. Aussi, n’est-ce
donc pas surprenant d’y trouver l’artère
du shopping haut de gamme : la P.C.
Hooftstraat dans laquelle se succèdent
les marques telles que Gucci, Prada,
Armani et Hermès. De la mode de luxe
à l’art stellaire, les trois musées les plus
célèbres du pays sont juste au coin de la
rue : Le Stedelijk Museum, le Musée
Van Gogh Museum et le Rijksmuseum.
Ce dernier est désormais traversé, de
part en part, par une piste cyclable qui
passe dans le bâtiment lui-même. Le
mieux est d’acheter un billet d’entrée en
ligne pour éviter les longues files
d’attente.
La traditionnelle gezelligheid
hollandaise, (pour faire court, une sorte
de « convivialité ») est omniprésente
dans les quartiers de De Pijp et de Zuid.
La Gerard Doustraat, qui collectionne
les concept stores, les cafés et les
établissements de restauration branchés
est parallèle au Marché Albert Cuyp.
Vous vous y régalerez d’huîtres chez
Brut de Mer et, pour un déjeuner sain et
original, vous pourrez vous rendre chez
CT Coffee & Coconuts, installé dans un
ancien cinéma Art déco, juste à coté du
Ceintuurbaan. On y rencontre une foule
hétérogène allant des jeunes mamans
avec poussettes aux pigistes rivés à leur
ordinateurs portables.
Le GlouGlou n’est pas bien loin non
plus. Ce bar à vins ne sert que des crus
naturels et la clientèle est convaincue
que, outre son goût supérieur, le vin a
également la propriété unique de ne pas
donner de gueule de bois, ce qui
pourrait expliquer l’ambiance extra
pétillante des lieux. Pour un wrap ou
une poke bowl (spécialité hawaïenne de
poisson cru), vous choisirez the new
Temakery, et Soi 74 en cas de fringale de
cuisine Thaï. Le The Butcher vous
« Jadis quartier
infréquentable,
Amsterdam Nord est
devenu un endroit
incontournable des
jeunes salariés qui y
viennent pour le travail
et leur plaisir. »
accueillera pour une envie de burgers et
le Calle Ocho pour une cuisine
d’Amérique latine parfaite. Le japonais,
c’est par où ? C’est juste la porte à côté
et il y a toujours beaucoup de monde, et
pour cause !
À L’OUEST
Amsterdam ouest voit s’ouvrir de
plus en plus d’adresses de petites
merveilles culinaires ; c’est donc à vous
d’ouvrir l’oeil ! Ici, les saveurs sont aussi
diverses que la démographie, on y recense
pas moins de 180 nationalités différentes.
Essayez le poulet satay au joyeux Café
Amoi indonésien de la Kinkerstraat. Un
tout petit détour par la Bilderdijkstraat
vous conduira au restaurant de street
food asiatique Happyhappyjoyjoy. Avec
ses gravures colorées et ses ombrelles
rouges au plafond, l’intérieur conçu par
l’agence de design primée Concrete
propose autant de dessins que de
nourriture.
Plus loin vers l’ouest se trouve De
Hallen, un ancien dépôt de trams rénové
qui, actuellement abrite magasins,
marchés pendant les week-ends, une
bibliothèque, un cinéma et un réparateur
de bicyclettes. Le même lieu abrite le
marché couvert Foodhallen. Le plus
populaire d’Amsterdam pour les
comestibles. Faites-y votre choix entre
sushis, pizzas, rouleaux vietnamiens et
mezzés méditerranéens, tous à quelques
pas seulement. Si vous êtes amateur de
slow food du Sud, ne ratez pas le
Graceland BAR-B-Q. Ce restaurant
de la Jan van Galenstraat propose sans
aucun doute le meilleur de la Louisiane
et de Jailhouse rock, dans un hangar
en bois hollandais. Pour les fanatiques
du vélo, une bel itinéraire vous mènera
vers un lieu idyllique au milieu des
prés en bordure d’Amsterdam: Het Rijk
van de Keizer. Vous pourrez y siroter
une limonade bio et déguster des tartes
maison en vous prélassant dans un
hamac ou sur une vieille banquette
de Mercedes revisitée. C’est l’endroit
idéal pour se détendre avec un bon
livre.
PROMESSE DE L’EST
Amsterdam Est, Oost en néerlandais,
le nouvel Amsterdam ouest, comme on
dit, est un quartier qui connaît une
renaissance depuis le boom de
l’immobilier à Amsterdam ouest. Ce
quartier est le plus multiculturel de la
ville. Ici, un supermarché marocain
voisine avec un bar à cocktails déjanté,
une boulangerie turque avec un coffee
shop dans le genre australien et des
hordes d’étudiants prennent d’assaut la
terrasse de la Brasserie het IJ, la
célébrissime brasserie artisanale
d’Amsterdam installée dans un ancien
moulin à vent. À vélo, rien n’est loin;
l’Oosterpark, par exemple n’est qu’à
quelques feux rouges de la brasserie.
Dans ce havre de verdure, l’été
transforme les pelouses en un patchwork
de nappes de pique-niques sous les
frondaisons. Traversez le parc et les voies
ferrées jusqu’à la Javastraat. Ici, les bars
et les restaurants branchés comme The
Walter Woodburybar, The Walrus &
The Carpenter, le Bar Basquiat et le
restaurant Wilde Zwijnen se partagent
l’espace avec les boutiques de téléphonie
mobile. S’il fait beau, accordez à votre
vélo un petit repos bien mérité pendant
que vous prendrez le soleil en dégustant
un verre au Roest, un beach bar caché
derrière la Czar Peterstraat.
Quand vous aurez bien mérité votre
pédalage le long de la magnifique rivière
Amstel, le café-restaurant avec sa
mezzanine, ’t Huis aan de Amstel, vous
accueillera au bord de l’eau, à moins
que vous n’optiez pour le Vergulden
Eenhoorn, un petit restaurant rustique
situé dans un corps de ferme datant de
1702. Dans cet Oost éclectique, rien
n’est impossible.
DANS LE NORD
En fait, le nord du centre puisque
Amsterdam Noord a une ambiance
complètement différente. On pourrait
qualifier le quartier de Brooklyn de la
Hollande. Cette friche industrielle située
de l’autre coté de la rivière navigable het
IJ a subi une transformation importante
mais est toujours en pleine rénovation

86 / TRANSLATED
Français
urbaine. Jadis quartier infréquentable, le
lieu est désormais considéré comme
tendance, statut évident au regard de
hordes de jeunes salariés qui y viennent
pour le travail et pour leur plaisir.
Pour vous y rendre, montez à bord
de l’un des ferries gratuits amarrés
derrière la gare centrale. Et toujours
sans avoir à descendre de vélo. Prenez le
bac pour l’embarcadère d’en face; vous
y arrivez avant d’avoir eu même le temps
de fermer votre imperméable (un conseil
à suivre car le vent ici est parfois fort).
Pédalez pendant environ 10 minutes
jusqu’au Gedempte Hamerkanaal.
Encore à l’heure actuelle, bien qu’hors
des sentiers battus, les gourmets
viennent ici pour le restaurant Hotel de
Goudfazant (qui n’a d’hôtel que le
nom). C’est en réalité un des pionniers
du lieu puisque sa cuisine ouverte est
installée dans un ancien garage revisité.
À l’intérieur, quelques chaises rouges,
tables en bois et nappes blanches toutes
simples, et un vieux moteur de voiture
déposé dans un coin, à côté du piano.
L’établissement a été pendant des années
un haut lieu gourmand. Le boho-chic
Hangar voisin vaut lui aussi le détour;
les jours ensoleillés, c’est un endroit
vraiment sympa au bord de l’eau. Ces
deux restaurants se situent juste à côté
du cinéma (on y passe des films cultes)
et du bar à vin FC HYENA, à proximité
du Skatecafé situé juste un peu plus
« C’est ici que, là où jadis
on construisait les
pétroliers mammouths,
aujourd’hui les gens
viennent pour danser, à
les festivals de week-end
organisés pendant l’été »
loin. Ne vous attendez pas un half-pipe
minable, mais une vraie adresse pour
hipsters où vous pourrez en plus dîner
avec de la bonne musique et des plats du
jour à moins de dix euros.
Au Nord-Ouest, vous trouvez les
chantiers navals NDSM. C’est ici que, là
où jadis on construisait et mettait à
l’eau les pétroliers mammouths,
aujourd’hui les gens viennent pour
danser, à n’importe quelle heure durant
les festivals de week-end organisés
pendant l’été. Et puis, il y a aussi ceux
qui viennent chiner et reviennent
chargés de vieilleries du gigantesque
marché au puces mensuel. C’est aussi ici
que, l’année prochaine, le plus grand
Street Art Museum d’Europe ouvrira
ses portes.
Plus loin, vers le nord, dans la
direction opposée donc, se situe De
Ceuvel. Le café Ceuvel est
incomparable. Cette ancienne friche a
été transformée en un jardin où
d’anciennes péniches d’habitation ont
été remorquées et que relie entre-elles
une passerelle en bois surélevée. Les
bateaux sont aujourd’hui les bureaux de
start-ups spécialisées dans des projets à
caractère social ou durable. On y trouve
également, au bord de l’eau, un café
servant des ingrédients bio, produits sur
place tels que des pleurotes cultivées sur
du marc de café. L’espace entier est un
lieu culturel et créatif où sont organisés
de nombreux ateliers et événements et
donc de fait, plus qu’un endroit où
simplement venir prendre un peu de
soleil. Terminez la journée à l’A’dam
Toren, face au quai des ferries. Allezvous
casser votre tirelire pour une
chambre au tout nouveau quatre étoiles,
hôtel Sir Adam tout en style rock’n
roll ? Cette monumentale tour a été le
siège de la compagnie pétrolière
néerlandaise Shell. Elle se situe juste à
coté de l’Eye film museum (à voir
absolument!). Le bâtiment abrite
aujourd’hui plusieurs entreprises en
rapport avec la musique, mais aussi trois
restaurants et un bar. Les plus
courageux pourront même monter faire
de la balançoire sur le bord du toitterrasse
de la tour. Imaginez un peu, la
plus haute escarpolette d’Europe à 100
mètres au-dessus du sol. Mais même du
skydeck, bien en sécurité, la vue sur la
ville est phénoménale.
✈ Réservez votre vol
Voir page 56

TRANSLATED / 87
中 文
旅 行
狂 野 热 带
莫 桑 比 克 既 拥 有 非 洲 最 大 的 荒
野 区 之 一 , 也 拥 有 远 离 尘 世 喧
嚣 的 小 岛 ; 在 这 里 , 景 色 呈 现
无 与 伦 比 的 强 烈 反 差 , 永 不 会
让 人 倦 怠 。
现 在 可 不 是 咯 咯 傻 笑 的 时 候 。 我 正
趴 在 一 处 河 堤 上 , 几 米 外 有 十 来 只 喷 着
响 鼻 的 非 洲 大 象 , 我 尽 力 不 发 出 孩 子 般
紧 张 的 傻 笑 声 。 这 让 我 想 起 小 时 候 , 我
们 偷 偷 钻 进 农 场 , 非 常 害 怕 农 场 主 瞧 见
我 们 , 而 那 个 农 场 主 对 我 们 小 孩 儿 来 说
就 像 巨 人 一 样 。 四 十 年 过 去 了 , 你 或 许
认 为 我 已 经 不 那 么 淘 气 了 , 但 这 片 非 洲
灌 木 丛 就 是 那 么 神 奇 , 能 让 所 有 人 释 放
童 真 。
亲 密 接 触
虽 然 我 过 去 曾 在 探 险 时 无 数 次 接 近
过 非 洲 大 象 , 但 这 莫 桑 比 克 北 部 尼 亚 萨
保 护 区 (Niassa Reserve) 的 象 群 却 与 众
不 同 , 它 们 狂 野 奔 放 , 无 拘 无 束 。 这 里
的 动 物 不 像 非 洲 其 他 地 区 那 些 驯 化 的 动
物 ; 它 们 的 行 为 更 难 以 预 测 。 它 们 天 生
就 是 狂 野 的 物 种 。
Nic van Rensburg 是 卢 任 达 (Lugenda)
野 外 营 地 的 导 游 , 他 曾 警 告 我 这 些 象 群
如 果 嗅 到 了 我 们 的 气 味 , 很 可 能 惊 慌 到
四 下 逃 窜 。 就 连 Nic 也 很 惊 讶 , 我 们 居
然 能 近 距 离 接 触 如 此 难 以 驾 驭 的 象 群 :
“ 头 放 低 , 屁 股 别 翘 起 来 ,” 他 匍 匐 在
我 旁 边 的 草 地 上 , 偷 笑 着 说 。 在 公 园 探
索 几 天 后 , 我 发 现 Nic 与 非 洲 野 生 动 物
亲 密 接 触 的 时 间 可 能 比 我 认 识 的 任 何 一
个 人 都 要 多 , 而 看 到 他 也 受 到 孩 童 般 激
动 的 情 绪 感 染 后 , 我 也 就 放 心 啦 。 他 设
法 将 车 熟 练 地 驶 入 了 一 条 小 径 , 那 里 是
50 头 大 象 的 必 经 之 路 。 由 于 我 们 地 处
被 短 盖 属 乔 木 林 所 覆 盖 的 河 岸 边 , 因 此
很 容 易 找 到 遮 掩 。 他 告 诉 我 藏 身 的 位 置 ,
象 群 经 过 时 , 它 们 的 象 鼻 拉 扯 着 离 我 们
的 脸 只 几 英 尺 远 的 树 枝 , 幸 运 的 是 我 们
没 被 发 现 。
极 限 荒 野
卢 任 达 河 崎 岖 不 平 的 河 道 穿 过 了 莫
桑 比 克 北 部 355 公 里 的 地 域 , 这 里 曾 被
以 前 的 葡 萄 牙 殖 民 者 称 为 Fim do
Mundo( 世 界 尽 头 ), 现 在 则 是 尼 亚 萨
国 家 公 园 的 所 在 位 置 。 这 片 区 域 占 地
42,000 平 方 公 里 , 是 非 洲 最 大 的 受 保 护
区 域 之 一 。 该 公 园 建 立 于 1954 年 , 当
时 这 里 还 是 葡 属 东 非 。 与 莫 桑 比 克 本 身
一 样 , 这 个 公 园 也 拥 有 动 荡 波 折 的 历 史 。
总 听 说 大 象 的 记 忆 力 很 好 , 而 附 近 象 群
中 年 长 的 母 象 应 该 能 够 回 忆 起 这 里 的 人
为 资 助 游 击 队 打 仗 而 普 遍 非 法 狩 猎 的 日
子 , 或 许 在 她 们 的 记 忆 中 , 和 平 的 日 子
是 很 少 的 。 今 天 这 个 公 园 的 面 积 几 乎 是
卢 旺 达 的 两 倍 , 预 计 有 20,000 头 大 象 可
以 自 由 地 在 这 片 受 保 护 的 公 园 内 漫 步 。
这 个 巨 大 的 非 洲 公 园 拥 有 莫 桑 比 克
大 约 70% 的 野 生 动 物 , 被 非 洲 探 险 行
家 们 誉 为 最 后 一 片 未 被 开 发 的 荒 野 之
一 。 庆 幸 的 是 , 这 并 不 意 味 着 你 得 在 这
里 吃 苦 遭 罪 。 公 园 内 的 卢 任 达 野 外 营 地
占 地 约 1,000 平 方 公 里 , 是 一 处 独 一 无
二 的 保 护 区 , 其 豪 华 程 度 会 让 你 大 为 惊
讶 。 这 里 有 八 间 宽 敞 的 帐 篷 套 房 , 房 内
配 有 特 大 号 四 支 柱 大 床 , 有 精 美 装 饰 的
卫 生 间 和 俯 瞰 卢 任 达 河 的 私 人 阳 台 。 如
果 你 想 在 非 洲 无 边 无 际 的 灌 木 丛 中 寻 找
绝 无 仅 有 的 刺 激 , 想 花 时 间 追 踪 仍 然 保
有 野 性 的 野 生 动 物 ( 当 然 , 一 切 都 是 豪
华 舒 适 的 体 验 ), 那 么 这 里 绝 对 是 人 间
天 堂 。 据 估 计 , 尼 亚 萨 拥 有 14,000 只
南 非 大 羚 羊 和 地 方 特 有 物 种 , 比 如 尼 亚
萨 牛 羚 、 布 恩 斑 马 和 约 翰 斯 顿 黑 斑 羚 。
这 里 大 量 的 野 牛 、 牛 羚 、 斑 马 和 黑 斑 羚
为 保 护 区 内 约 800 只 狮 子 和 450 只 非 洲
野 狗 提 供 了 充 足 的 猎 物 。 该 区 域 有 多 达
400 种 鸟 类 , 野 鸟 观 察 者 齐 聚 于 此 , 比
拼 眼 福 。 如 果 幸 运 , 能 看 到 千 载 难 逢
的 壮 观 景 色 , 比 如 泰 塔 猎 鹰 和 南 部 斑
短 趾 雕 。
回 到 过 去
在 莫 桑 比 克 , 处 处 都 能 感 受 到 它 独
有 的 文 化 ; 葡 萄 牙 丰 富 的 遗 产 与 源 远 流
长 的 历 史 合 二 为 一 。 这 片 几 乎 未 被 开 发
的 尼 亚 萨 保 护 区 对 生 命 有 着 全 然 意 想 不
到 的 诠 释 , 就 像 在 人 类 初 生 之 时 一 样 ,
而 你 会 感 到 与 历 史 之 间 只 仿 若 隔 纱 。
原 始 的 土 著 特 瓦 俾 格 米 人 在 几 处 岩
石 上 留 下 了 他 们 的 岩 石 艺 术 杰 作 , 这 些
艺 术 迄 今 为 仍 对 当 地 社 区 有 着 神 奇 的 强
大 影 响 。 我 想 , 创 造 了 这 些 设 计 杰 作 的
古 代 艺 术 家 们 , 就 算 回 到 了 今 天 , 登 高
远 眺 , 也 不 会 觉 察 出 现 在 已 经 是 21 世
纪 的 蛛 丝 马 迹 。 这 里 没 有 一 丝 柏 油 马 路 、
电 线 的 痕 迹 , 甚 到 都 看 不 到 村 庄 标 志 性
“ 野 鸟 观 察 者 们 齐 聚 于
此 , 观 赏 千 载 难 逢 的 壮
观 景 色 , 比 如 泰 塔 猎 鹰
和 南 部 斑 短 趾 雕 ”
的 袅 袅 炊 烟 。 与 以 前 一 样 , 整 个 区 域 似
乎 都 被 动 物 脚 印 所 覆 盖 。
莫 桑 比 克 现 在 有 12% 的 面 积 被 划 为
保 护 区 , 这 相 当 可 观 。 在 曾 经 的 偷 猎 和
游 击 战 争 对 这 里 的 野 生 动 物 造 成 巨 大 摧
残 后 , 戈 龙 戈 萨 (Gorongosa) 国 家 公 园
正 逐 渐 恢 复 其 往 日 “ 非 洲 伊 甸 园 ” 的 光
辉 ; 林 波 波 (Limpopo) 国 家 公 园 现 在 与
南 非 的 克 鲁 格 (Kruger) 国 家 公 园 合 并 ,
形 成 了 一 座 跨 国 界 公 园 。 班 罕 (Banhine)
和 日 纳 夫 (Zinave) 国 家 公 园 也 同 样 正 在
成 为 非 洲 探 险 家 的 探 索 胜 地 , 而 这 两 个
公 园 与 其 他 地 区 相 比 游 人 甚 少 。 基 林 巴
(Quirimbas) 国 家 公 园 和 巴 扎 鲁 托 群 岛
(Bazaruto) 国 家 公 园 将 陆 上 探 险 与 莫 桑
比 克 标 志 性 的 岛 屿 野 生 动 物 观 赏 完 美
结 合 。
天 堂 小 岛
旅 行 的 妙 处 之 一 在 于 所 见 之 景 的 鲜
明 对 比 , 在 游 览 莫 桑 比 克 优 美 国 家 公 园
的 同 时 , 我 们 还 可 以 轻 松 游 览 该 国 如 宝
石 般 的 岛 屿 。 我 乘 坐 一 架 小 型 “ 赛 斯 纳
大 篷 车 ” 飞 机 从 尼 亚 萨 的 土 路 跑 道 起 飞 ,
仅 一 小 时 后 便 降 落 在 了 基 林 巴 群 岛 中 一
座 璀 璨 的 珊 瑚 环 礁 上 , 这 座 小 岛 的 长 度
刚 好 能 够 勉 强 铺 设 一 条 飞 机 起 落 跑 道 。
美 丘 贝 私 人 岛 仅 800 米 长 、350 米 宽 ,
但 正 如 尼 亚 萨 的 独 一 无 二 之 处 在 于 其 广
袤 无 垠 , 美 丘 贝 的 魅 力 则 与 其 细 致 入 微
的 美 和 周 围 湛 蓝 的 大 海 密 不 可 分 。
虽 然 巴 扎 鲁 托 群 岛 更 著 名 , 但 它 只
有 6 座 小 岛 , 而 基 林 巴 群 岛 则 拥 有
32 座 小 岛 。 美 丘 贝 是 最 小 的 岛 屿 之 一 ,
同 时 也 是 最 美 的 小 岛 之 一 。 着 陆 后 不 到
30 分 钟 , 我 已 经 泡 在 按 摩 浴 缸 里 放 松 身
心 , 品 饮 着 一 瓶 带 着 霜 花 的 “doshem”,
这 是 莫 桑 比 克 人 喜 爱 的 2M 牌 啤 酒 。 安
纳 塔 拉 美 丘 贝 岛 水 疗 度 假 村 (Anantara
Medjumbe Island Resort) 是 莫 桑 比 克 北
部 最 独 一 无 二 的 精 品 度 假 村 之 一 , 也 是

88 / TRANSLATED
中 文
在 经 历 一 天 “ 世 界 尽 头 ” 的 探 险 后 ,
洗 去 满 身 尘 土 的 理 想 浪 漫 天 堂 。 美 丘
贝 提 供 极 致 赤 足 奢 华 体 验 。 酒 店 工 作
人 员 以 热 情 好 客 的 态 度 迎 接 四 方 宾 客 ,
而 这 也 是 莫 桑 比 克 文 化 特 色 的 一 部 分 。
在 小 岛 上 逗 留 几 个 小 时 , 在 设 计 别 致 、
装 潢 精 美 的 小 屋 休 息 , 或 栖 身 于 迷 人
的 海 滨 小 屋 , 久 久 沉 醉 在 私 人 瀑 布 泳
池 的 相 伴 下 , 没 有 什 么 比 这 更 令 人 有
宾 至 如 归 之 感 的 了 。
伊 博 岛 长 稍 逾 10 公 里 , 是 基 林 巴
群 岛 中 最 大 的 小 岛 。 该 岛 是 阿 拉 伯 人 、
印 度 人 、 中 国 人 和 葡 萄 牙 人 所 知 的 贸 易
定 居 点 , 它 地 处 遥 远 , 未 受 污 浊 ; 在
500 年 的 岁 月 里 , 海 盗 、 奴 隶 、 象 牙 贩
卖 商 和 殖 民 地 领 主 在 这 里 写 下 了 数 个 世
纪 的 历 史 故 事 。 正 如 尼 亚 萨 的 古 岩 石 艺
术 似 乎 体 现 了 远 去 的 传 奇 和 冒 险 精 神 ,
伊 博 岛 的 葡 萄 牙 小 教 堂 斑 驳 剥 落 的 墙
壁 、 三 座 堡 垒 和 杂 乱 无 序 的 殖 民 时 期 建
筑 也 不 禁 让 人 沉 浸 在 深 埋 的 海 盗 宝 藏 白
日 梦 中 。
一 个 想 练 习 英 语 的 小 男 孩 说 道 :“ 我
们 为 我 们 的 历 史 感 到 骄 傲 。 我 们 的 岛 虽
小 , 但 却 拥 有 悠 久 的 历 史 , 我 们 很 高 兴
人 们 愿 意 来 这 里 参 观 !”
回 到 美 丘 贝 小 岛 后 , 面 对 水 肺 潜 水 、
浮 潜 、 独 木 舟 、 双 体 船 、 水 上 滑 板 和 浪
漫 的 单 桅 三 角 帆 船 等 众 多 水 上 项 目 , 我
尽 可 能 忍 住 诱 惑 ; 能 有 充 足 的 时 间 静 静
地 休 息 , 完 全 享 受 这 纯 粹 的 热 带 天 堂 已
让 我 欣 喜 不 已 。 傍 晚 时 分 , 漫 步 到 小 岛
尽 头 的 沙 滩 : 阳 光 洒 满 无 边 无 尽 的 印 度
洋 , 在 眼 前 展 开 了 一 幅 泛 着 点 点 金 光 的
绝 美 画 卷 , 仿 若 置 身 于 世 界 尽 头 。
“ 杂 乱 无 序 的 殖 民 时
期 建 筑 , 不 禁 让 人 沉
浸 在 深 埋 的 海 盗 宝 藏
白 日 梦 中 ”
✈ 预 订 航 班
见 第 26 页
旅 程
骑 行 畅 游
阿 姆 斯
特 丹
若 要 真 实 感 受 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 , 你 需
要 一 对 不 错 的 车 轮 — 自 行 车 车
轮 。 然 后 就 上 车 出 发 吧 !
自 行 车 是 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 城 市 设 施 的 一
部 分 。 自 行 车 随 处 可 见 ; 无 论 任 何 形 状 、
任 何 大 小 , 无 论 是 实 用 的 搬 运 自 行 车 还
是 破 烂 生 锈 的 自 行 车 , 应 有 尽 有 。 作 为
荷 兰 首 都 , 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 被 认 为 是 世 界 最
适 合 骑 自 行 车 的 城 市 之 一 。 城 市 街 道 狭
窄 , 两 轮 车 常 常 比 四 个 轮 子 的 车 要 快 。
骑 上 自 行 车 后 , 当 地 人 便 可 轻 松 穿 梭 于
电 车 轨 道 和 人 行 道 之 间 , 游 走 于 沿 路 遇
到 的 任 何 事 物 , 无 论 是 带 着 宠 物 , 领 着
孩 子 , 拎 着 杂 货 , 甚 至 冬 天 扛 着 圣 诞 树 ,
一 样 轻 松 自 如 。 来 过 之 后 , 你 就 会 相 信 ,
对 这 里 骑 车 的 人 来 说 , 前 往 目 的 地 的 途
中 完 全 不 停 车 才 算 合 格 。 如 果 脚 面 挨 地
停 下 来 , 就 显 得 十 分 业 余 。 别 的 不 说 ,
阿 姆 斯 特 丹 人 每 天 骑 行 距 离 加 起 来 可 达
200 万 公 里 。 无 论 是 四 处 闲 逛 还 是 游 走
探 索 , 骑 自 行 车 才 是 王 道 。 阿 姆 斯 特 丹
拥 有 长 达 500 公 里 的 自 行 车 道 , 别 浪 费
时 间 , 快 骑 起 来 吧 。
市 中 心
车 钥 匙 已 经 交 给 你 了 , 至 少 今 天 一
天 , 你 就 是 这 辆 荷 兰 自 行 车 的 主 人 了 。
从 哪 里 开 始 ? 先 快 速 地 骑 一 圈 , 熟 悉
环 境 , 再 深 入 游 玩 , 到 最 繁 华 ( 但 也
很 有 趣 ) 的 哈 尔 勒 梅 尔 斯 大 街
(Haarlemmerstraat) 的 时 尚 商 店 逛 逛 。
这 里 有 一 条 标 志 性 的 17 世 纪 运 河 , 为
这 处 熙 熙 攘 攘 的 联 合 国 教 科 文 组 织 世 界
遗 产 地 更 添 精 彩 一 笔 。 崎 岖 不 平 的 鹅 卵
石 道 和 拱 桥 不 仅 是 自 拍 的 完 美 背 景 , 也
是 锻 炼 车 技 的 好 地 方 。 在 美 丽 的
Papiermolensluis 桥 上 欣 赏 运 河 的 美 景 ,
街 角 是 Papeneiland 咖 啡 店 。 自 从 这 座
以 红 砖 砌 成 的 咖 啡 店 建 成 后 , 此 处 的 景
色 在 375 年 的 时 间 里 几 乎 没 变 过 。 稍 远
处 是 北 市 场 (Noordermarkt), 这 里 周
一 和 周 六 的 市 集 特 别 热 闹 。
这 里 地 处 约 丹 区 (Jordan) 的 边 缘 。
蜿 蜒 曲 折 的 街 道 沿 袭 了 几 个 世 纪 前 该 地
区 的 沟 渠 和 道 路 的 布 局 , 所 以 在 这 里 迷
路 是 很 正 常 的 。 从 这 里 也 可 去 到 导 游 手
册 上 没 有 的 神 奇 古 董 店 或 只 有 本 地 人 才
知 道 好 玩 的 地 方 。 每 条 街 道 的 两 旁 都 林
立 着 现 代 画 廊 和 精 致 的 商 店 , 看 起 来 都
那 么 充 满 吸 引 力 , 实 在 难 以 区 分 。 如 今
的 秘 密 庭 院 、 山 形 墙 的 房 屋 和 运 河 周 围
都 是 在 17 世 纪 为 容 纳 工 人 阶 级 建 造 的 ,
而 现 在 已 为 了 非 常 抢 手 的 住 宅 区 。
这 部 分 约 丹 区 也 是 人 们 在 慵 懒 的 午
后 最 爱 喝 咖 啡 的 地 方 。 咖 啡 独 具 荷 兰 特
色 , 通 常 会 塔 配 一 小 块 饼 干 。 跨 过 酿 酒
者 运 河 (Brouwersgracht), 到 时 尚 的 咖
啡 馆 Toki 喝 杯 咖 啡 , 或 者 可 以 多 走 几
步 , 到 Small World 买 点 三 明 治 作 午 餐 。
这 里 还 有 一 家 传 统 的 意 大 利 餐 厅
Koevoet, 取 名 自 原 先 居 住 在 这 里 的 一
户 有 钱 人 家 。 虽 然 食 材 进 口 自 意 大 利 南
部 , 但 餐 厅 的 装 饰 采 用 经 典 的 荷 兰 风 格 ,
铺 设 木 地 板 , 装 有 彩 色 玻 璃 门 。
穿 过 这 片 历 史 街 区 , 会 路 过 王 子 运
河 (Prinsengracht) 边 的 安 妮 · 弗 兰 克 之
家 , 这 位 战 时 犹 太 记 者 和 她 的 家 人 在 二
战 时 就 秘 密 居 住 在 这 里 。 门 口 总 是 会 排
一 条 长 队 , 所 以 很 好 认 。 穿 过 玫 瑰 运 河
(Rozengracht), 在 普 利 策 酒 店 (Pulitzer
Hotel) 休 息 一 下 。 在 一 天 中 随 时 都 可 以
到 这 里 休 整 : 吃 早 餐 可 以 到 大 厅 咖 啡 厅
Pause, 午 餐 可 以 去 Jans 餐 厅 , 阳 光 明
媚 的 日 子 里 可 以 到 花 园 一 逛 , 还 可 以 去
普 利 策 酒 吧 品 尝 鸡 尾 酒 。 每 年 八 月 中 旬 ,
酒 店 正 门 前 的 浮 舟 会 上 演 供 免 费 欣 赏 的
经 典 音 乐 会 。 为 了 参 加 这 一 盛 事 , 阿 姆
斯 特 丹 人 会 弃 车 换 舟 , 将 运 河 围 得 水 泄
不 通 , 在 密 密 漂 浮 着 船 只 的 河 上 观 看 音
乐 会 。
下 一 站 , 我 们 要 去 到 统 称 为 九 条 街
(De Negen Straatjes) 的 九 条 温 馨 舒 适 的
小 街 ( 留 意 Maison Rika 的 标 志 )。 这
是 在 精 品 商 店 购 物 的 好 时 机 , 把 便 携 篮
放 在 自 行 车 前 准 备 满 载 而 归 吧 。 然 后 ,
让 我 们 去 Breda 餐 厅 享 用 一 顿 优 质 大
餐 。 一 直 想 尝 尝 古 老 又 地 道 的 阿 姆 斯 特
丹 美 酒 ? 去 Proeflokaal A. van Wees 美
食 餐 厅 尝 一 口 杜 松 子 酒 , 这 里 完 美 体 现
了 当 地 年 轻 人 是 怎 样 拥 抱 传 统 文 化 的 。

TRANSLATED / 89
南 下
与 约 丹 不 同 , 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 的 南 部 ( 或
称 作 Zuid), 一 直 以 来 与 “ 豪 门 世 族 ”
有 关 。 该 社 区 的 起 点 是 芬 德 尔 公 园
(Vondelpark), 园 中 建 有 一 些 本 市 最 贵
的 房 产 。 因 此 , 高 档 购 物 街 P.C.
Hooftstraat 也 坐 落 于 该 区 域 就 不 足 为
奇 了 。 这 里 聚 集 了 各 大 奢 侈 品 牌 , 如
Gucci、Prada、Armani 和 Hermès。 从
高 档 时 尚 精 品 店 到 璀 璨 的 艺 术 殿 堂 , 荷
兰 的 三 座 最 有 名 的 博 物 馆 都 在 附 近 : 市
立 博 物 馆 (Stedelijk Museum)、 梵 高 博
物 馆 (Van Gogh Museum) 和 国 家 博 物
馆 (Rijksmuseum)。 国 家 博 物 馆 的 馆 内
有 一 条 双 自 行 车 车 道 。 建 议 先 在 网 上 购
票 , 省 去 大 排 长 龙 的 烦 恼 。
在 Zuid 的 德 派 普 (Pijp) 区 , 经 常 有
传 统 的 荷 兰 式 gezelligheid, 或 称 作 宴
饮 交 际 。 与 艾 伯 特 市 场 (Albert Cuyp
Market) 平 行 而 立 的 是 Gerard
Doustraat, 这 里 坐 拥 各 类 时 尚 概 念 商
店 、 咖 啡 店 和 餐 厅 。 在 Brut de Mer 品
尝 美 味 的 牡 蛎 ; 若 要 享 用 一 顿 健 康 、 地
道 的 午 餐 , 则 可 以 前 往 附 近 的
Ceintuurbaan 大 街 上 的 CT Coffee and
Coconuts, 这 家 店 位 于 一 家 拥 有 引 人
瞩 目 的 古 老 装 饰 艺 术 风 格 的 电 影 院 内 。
这 里 老 少 皆 宜 , 有 推 着 婴 儿 车 的 年 轻 妈
妈 , 还 有 带 着 笔 记 本 电 脑 工 作 的 自 由 职
业 者 。
GlouGlou 离 这 儿 不 远 。 这 家 酒 吧
只 提 供 自 然 发 酵 的 葡 萄 酒 , 而 客 人 们 也
都 相 信 , 除 了 口 感 上 乘 之 外 , 这 种 葡 萄
酒 还 有 不 会 让 人 宿 醉 的 魔 力 , 这 可 能 也
解 释 了 为 什 么 来 店 里 喝 酒 人 的 特 别 多 。
想 要 品 尝 美 味 的 “ 一 碗 食 ”( 夏 威 夷 生
鱼 美 食 ) 的 话 , 就 得 去 全 新 的 Temakery
餐 厅 ;Soi 74 餐 厅 则 能 满 足 爱 吃 泰 国 菜
的 食 客 的 味 蕾 。Butcher 餐 厅 提 供 美 味
汉 堡 ; 在 Calle Ocho 可 以 品 味 地 道 的
南 美 美 食 。 那 么 日 本 菜 呢 ?De
Japanner 就 在 附 近 , 生 意 一 直 火 爆 , 这
自 然 是 有 原 因 的 。
西 行
阿 姆 斯 特 丹 西 部 的 美 食 餐 厅 越 来 越
多 。 你 得 知 道 从 哪 里 下 手 。 这 里 的 美 食
“ 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 人 口 刚 超
过 80 万 , 却 拥 有 88 万
辆 自 行 车 , 自 行 车 的 作
用 超 过 了 人 ”
“ 曾 经 落 后 破 败 的 阿 姆
斯 特 丹 北 区 , 已 成 为 青
年 才 俊 到 此 工 作 和 休 闲
的 中 心 ”
风 味 如 同 其 人 口 构 成 一 样 多 元 化 , 估 计
全 城 有 大 约 180 个 不 同 的 民 族 。 在 金 克
大 街 (Kinkerstraat) 有 一 家 阳 光 明 媚 的
印 度 尼 西 亚 咖 啡 厅 , 那 里 的 鸡 肉 沙 爹 值
得 一 尝 。 穿 过 Bilderdijkstraat 绕 行 一
小 段 , 能 看 到 亚 洲 街 头 美 食 餐 厅
Happyhappyjoyjoy。 餐 厅 的 内 饰 由 屡
获 殊 荣 的 设 计 公 司 Concrete 打 造 , 采
用 五 颜 六 色 的 标 志 和 挂 满 红 色 雨 伞 的 天
花 板 独 特 的 装 潢 与 食 物 一 样 别 具 魅 力 。
再 往 西 走 , 就 到 了 一 个 经 过 翻 新 的
电 车 站 , 目 前 入 驻 了 商 店 、 周 末 市 场 、
图 书 馆 、 电 影 院 和 自 行 车 修 理 店 。
Foodhallen 也 在 车 站 内 : 这 是 阿 姆 斯 特
丹 最 受 欢 迎 的 室 内 食 品 市 场 。 寿 司 、 比 萨 、
越 式 法 包 和 地 中 海 美 食 近 在 咫 尺 , 应 有
尽 有 。 或 者 , 如 果 南 方 的 慢 食 才 是 你 的
心 头 好 , 那 么 Graceland BAR-B-Q 是 不
得 不 光 顾 的 餐 厅 : 这 家 位 于 艳 加 兰 街 (Jan
van Galenstraat) 的 餐 厅 设 于 一 座 荷 兰 式
木 屋 内 , 供 应 最 棒 的 路 易 斯 安 那 美 食 ,
还 举 行 最 大 规 模 的 监 狱 摇 滚 表 演 。
痴 迷 骑 自 行 车 的 旅 游 者 , 可 借 着 一
条 路 线 抵 达 位 于 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 边 界 的 草 场 ,
欣 赏 田 园 般 旖 旎 的 风 光 :Het Rijk van
de Keizer。 躺 在 吊 床 上 或 用 轿 车 改 装 成
的 座 椅 中 , 一 边 品 尝 有 机 柠 檬 水 , 一 边
享 用 自 制 馅 饼 , 再 配 上 一 本 好 书 , 没 有
比 这 更 完 美 的 了 。
东 方 应 许 之 地
阿 姆 斯 特 丹 东 部 是 这 座 城 市 最 具 多
元 文 化 的 区 域 之 一 。 在 这 里 , 你 能 看 到
一 家 摩 洛 哥 超 市 旁 边 挨 着 一 家 古 怪 的 鸡
尾 酒 吧 ; 一 家 土 耳 其 面 包 店 旁 边 开 着 是
澳 洲 风 格 的 咖 啡 店 ; 成 群 结 队 的 学 生 们
涌 入 Brouwerij het IJ 的 露 台 狂 欢 , 这
是 阿 姆 斯 特 丹 最 著 名 的 工 艺 啤 酒 厂 , 栖
身 在 一 座 旧 风 车 房 内 。 骑 着 自 行 车 , 方
便 前 往 任 何 角 落 。 奥 斯 特 公 园
(Oosterpark) 也 不 例 外 , 从 啤 酒 厂 出 发 ,
过 几 个 红 绿 灯 便 是 。 每 逢 夏 日 , 这 片 绿
色 天 堂 的 草 地 便 处 处 是 前 来 野 餐 的 人
群 , 树 下 的 阴 凉 区 成 了 人 们 野 餐 赏 景 的
好 去 处 。 穿 过 公 园 和 铁 路 天 桥 , 便 来 到
爪 哇 街 (Javastraat)。 林 林 总 总 的 手 机
店 之 间 , 零 星 分 布 着 数 家 时 尚 酒 吧 和 餐
厅 , 比 如 The Walter Woodburybar、
The Walrus & The Carpenter、Bar
Basquiat 和 Wilde Zwijnen 餐 厅 。 或 者 ,
在 天 气 晴 好 时 , 让 心 爱 的 自 行 车 也 好 好
休 息 一 下 ; 在 Czar Peterstraat 背 后 隐
秘 的 一 隅 , 坐 落 着 一 家 名 为 Roest 的 城
市 沙 滩 酒 吧 , 坐 下 来 沐 浴 阳 光 , 品 饮 冰
爽 的 饮 品 , 实 为 消 闲 好 去 处 。
在 不 拘 一 格 的 Oost, 一 切 皆 有 可 能 。
北 上
城 中 心 的 北 边 是 阿 姆 斯 特 丹
Noord, 这 里 又 是 一 番 不 同 的 景 象 。 你
可 称 它 为 荷 兰 的 布 鲁 克 林 。 这 片 横 跨
IJ 航 道 的 原 始 工 业 区 已 经 历 了 沧 桑 巨
变 , 现 在 仍 处 于 城 市 化 的 复 兴 进 程 中 。
曾 经 落 后 破 败 的 北 区 , 如 今 已 贴 上 时 尚
的 标 签 , 成 为 青 年 才 俊 到 此 工 作 和 休 闲
的 中 心 。
如 需 前 往 , 可 在 中 央 火 车 站 背 后 的
渡 轮 站 搭 乘 免 费 渡 轮 , 甚 至 可 以 骑 着 车
上 船 。 坐 上 渡 轮 直 接 向 对 岸 驶 去 , 河 上
的 风 开 始 在 耳 旁 呼 啸 ; 可 能 还 等 不 及 拉
上 衣 服 拉 链 , 便 已 经 到 达 目 的 地 了 。 向
东 骑 行 大 约 十 分 钟 , 便 能 到 达
Gedempte Hamerkanaal。 虽 然 这 里 地
方 较 为 偏 僻 , 但 美 食 家 们 还 是 踊 跃 地 来
到 Hotel de Goudfazant 餐 厅 ( 虽 然 店
名 里 有 “ 酒 店 ”, 但 不 是 真 正 的 酒 店 )。
该 餐 厅 是 此 地 区 的 早 期 商 户 , 建 在 翻 修
过 的 车 库 中 , 厨 房 是 开 放 式 的 。 餐 厅 里
仅 有 几 把 红 色 的 椅 子 、 几 张 铺 着 白 色 亚
麻 布 的 木 制 餐 桌 , 角 落 里 还 有 一 个 拆 了
一 半 的 发 动 机 , 旁 边 摆 放 着 钢 琴 。 多 年
来 , 这 里 一 直 是 美 食 爱 好 者 们 最 爱 去 的
餐 厅 。 相 邻 的 波 西 米 亚 时 尚 风 格 的
Hangar 也 相 当 不 错 ; 天 气 晴 朗 的 时 候 ,
可 以 找 个 河 边 的 座 位 坐 坐 。 这 两 家 餐 厅
都 在 ( 放 映 地 下 电 影 的 ) 电 影 院 和 FC
Hyena 酒 吧 旁 , 再 稍 远 处 便 是
Skatecafé 餐 厅 。 这 里 并 非 破 旧 的 U 型
滑 板 场 , 而 是 时 髦 的 滑 板 和 美 食 餐 厅 ,
播 放 着 美 妙 的 音 乐 , 每 日 还 有 十 欧 元 以
下 的 特 价 优 惠 菜 品 。
西 北 方 坐 落 着 NDSM 码 头 。 这 里
曾 经 是 供 巨 型 油 轮 建 造 所 用 , 但 现 在 一
到 夏 天 , 人 们 会 来 这 里 参 加 周 末 的 狂 欢 ,
尽 情 舞 蹈 。 这 里 每 个 月 还 有 规 模 庞 大 的
跳 蚤 市 场 , 人 们 会 到 此 逛 逛 古 着 货 物 。
明 年 , 欧 洲 最 大 的 街 头 艺 术 博 物 馆 将 要
在 这 里 开 放 。
在 疲 劳 的 一 天 后 前 往 渡 轮 码 头 边 的
Adam Toren 坐 坐 。 这 座 地 标 大 厦 曾 是
荷 兰 壳 牌 石 油 公 司 的 办 公 大 楼 , 大 楼 里
入 驻 了 众 多 音 乐 公 司 , 还 有 几 家 餐 厅 和
一 家 酒 吧 。 如 果 胆 子 够 大 , 可 以 尝 试 在
离 地 100 米 高 的 欧 洲 最 高 秋 千 上 荡 秋
千 , 在 悬 崖 边 缘 体 验 生 死 一 线 的 刺 激 。
但 即 使 只 在 安 全 的 摩 天 台 上 看 看 , 也 能
欣 赏 到 城 市 绝 妙 的 美 景 。
✈ 预 订 航 班
见 第 56 页

SAFARI NJEMA / 91
African tourism increased by
17.8 percent to almost KSh 99.7
billion in 2016, compared to KSh
84.6 billion the year before.
✈ To book flights to the Seychelles
go to kenya-airways.com.
Safari Njema
Shutterstock
Promoting tourism
Flying the flag(s)
While its new African destinations are
gradually bringing more visitors to the
continent, Kenya Airways (KQ) is
working with the tourism boards in
Kenya and the Seychelles in a bid to
boost tourism in both countries.
A partnership with the Kenyan Tourism
Board (KTB) will target leisure and
business visitors via external and
internal aircraft branding, promoting
Magical Kenya. This development
comes at an auspicious time, coinciding
with the launch of Kenya Airways’ new
destination: the popular attraction,
Victoria Falls, in Zimbabwe.
“We seek to drive our tourism to the
next level by leveraging each other’s
consumer and trade insights to ensure
that travellers have a more in-depth
Kenyan experience that meets their
needs and wants,” says KTB’s Managing
Director, Dr Betty Radier.
And there’s more good news. KQ will
now work together with the Seychelles
Tourism Board to develop strategies
to increase tourism, such as travel
incentives and holiday packages with
KQ Holidays.
Intra-African traffic grew by 14 percent
during the 2016 financial year (second
half) as the airline focused strategically
within the African continent. If the past
is anything to go by, it’s just a matter of
time before KQ’s latest intra-African
marketing inititatives move the needle
even further in the right direction.

SAFARI NJEMA / 93
KQ received its
first Dreamliner
787-800 in 2014.
News
✈ KQ aircraft transport 160
metric tonnes of cargo daily.
Broadening horizons
At Ease with the Chinese
Out of Africa
First-Class
Cargo
Kenya Airways has added the safe and efficient Alipay service
to its online payment options, which will help to increase
visitors from China.
Used by 450 million people, Alipay is part of Ant Financial
Services Group, China’s leading third-party payment platform.
Currently, Kenya Airways carries out a daily flight from
Guangzhou, and three flights per week from Hong Kong to
Kenya’s capital Nairobi. It also operates to 42 African
destinations. The round-trip minimum price for Guangzhou-
Antananarivo (capital of Madagascar) economy class is
about RMB6,000.
You can also take Kenya Airways’ Guangzhou-Bangkok flight
(four times per week) and Hong Kong-Bangkok flight (three
times per week) for a short vacation in Thailand.
The current round-trip minimum price for Guangzho-Bangkok
economy class is about RMB1,320.
To help transform Nairobi into an international hub
for ecommerce activities, Kenya Airways has opened
the Cargo Express Centre for premium cargo at
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
Cargo customers will benefit from a state-of-the-art facility,
which according to Kenya Airways CEO and MD, Mbuvi
Ngunze, “is the equivalent of the first-class lounge that our
passenger guests enjoy.”
Ngunze further explains that, through the Centre, customers
will enjoy efficiency in the clearing process as it will provide a
wide range of specialised products, tailor made to meet their
needs, such as express diplomatic packages, pharmaceuticals,
and valuables handling. Having been named African Cargo
Airline of the year four times, the last being this year, this
latest development bodes well for the next awards season.
“University
empowers you with
knowledge. You
empower yourself
with attitude”
− Mike Macharia −
CEO Seven Seas Technologies, Kenya
Shutterstock

94 / SAFARI NJEMA
Want to know the carbon
emission of your flight?
Visit climatecare.org
and click on the
carbon calculator.
News
✈ KQ’s Kool Flyers program
offers discounts to students
studying abroad.
Education
Aviation students get high tech
Kenya Airways, General Electric and Boeing have donated
a swathe of aviation maintenance devices to the Technical
University of Kenya.
The selection includes a high-tech engine that powers various
aircraft including Boeing and Airbus models, maintenance
training books, used parts, and manuals.
Speaking during the handover ceremony held at the university,
Kenya Airways, Strategy and Performance Management
Director Thomas Omondi said, “Our donation today further
strengthens our commitment to ensure a stronger foundation
of aeronautical knowledge, skills and more experience to
aviation technicians and engineers even as they prepare for
the job market either with us or elsewhere.”
Sustainability
“Do what you
love and people
will love what
you do”
−Jonathan Liebmann −
founder of Propertuity, South Africa
Connecting
to Nature
June 5 is World Environment Day, and this year’s
theme is Connecting People to Nature. At Wildlife
Works, Kenya Airways’ carbon-offsetting partner,
part of their community empowerment strategy
includes ensuring underprivileged students have the
chance to explore their ecosystem and see wildlife
in its natural habitat.
Wildlife Works hosts educational visits and safaris 25 times a
year for students and community members across the project
area. These trips help youths to appreciate their environment
in the hope of inspiring them to protect it. Many students in
rural areas cannot afford safari trips and would not otherwise
have this exposure to nature. Other initiatives include funding
hiking trips for school Environmental Clubs and working with
the community to collect seeds and plant indigenous seedlings.
The Kasigau Corridor REDD+ Project protects 500,000 acres
of forest and wildlife near Tsavo East and Tsavo West National
Parks in Kenya. Offsetting your KQ flight protects this
ecosystem and the wildlife that call Kenya home.
~ The KQ offset programme, run by ClimateCare, is approved by the
International Air Transport Association as a way to take responsibility
for unavoidable carbon emissions during your flight. If you want to
offset your flight on landing, visit wildlifeworks.com/shopcarbon.

How many Miles did you
earn while flying to your
current destination? Find out
online with the Flying Blue
Miles Calculator.
Flying Blue
SAFARI NJEMA / 95
✈ There are new discounted award
tickets, or Promo Awards, available
every month, saving you up to
50 percent on Award Miles.
See flyingblue.com/promo-awards.
Membership levels
Miles!
Miles!
Miles!
The Flying Blue frequent flyer programme allows you to earn
Award Miles for every flight you take with Kenya Airways or
a SkyTeam partner.You can redeem your Miles to fly with
KQ-operated flights or upgrade your seats to Business Class.
There are four membership levels in Flying Blue and with each qualifying
flight you take, you earn Level Miles. When you first enrol, you will be
awarded Ivory status, which progresses to Silver, Gold and ultimately
Platinum. The more you travel with KQ or one of our partner airlines,
the higher your level becomes, which results in you earning more Award
Miles and enjoying more benefits.
Award Miles can be redeemed for flights to destinations selected by
Kenya Airways or our SkyTeam partner airlines. Your accumulated
Award Miles remain valid for 20 months, which can be extended every
time you fly with Kenya Airways or one of our SkyTeam partners, if you
fly at least once every 20 months. The total number of Miles credited to
your account depends on the distance you have flown and travel class
that you have chosen.
~ Enrol now and start to enjoy the benefits Flying Blue has to offer.
Go to flyingblue.com for more information and to sign up.
1
Exchange
Award Miles can be redeemed for a flight to
any Kenya Airways destination or an upgrade to
Business Class.
2
Check
Your choice of destination determines the
number of Miles required for your Award ticket. So
please check if you have sufficient Miles for your
choice. You can check this on flyingblue.com. It is
advisable to have flexible date options in case your
initial choice is not available.
3
Redeem
Once you have made your choice, you can
redeem your Award Miles in several ways:
A. Call the Kenya Airways contact centres in
Nairobi on +254 20 327 4747; +254 734 104747
or +254 711 024747.
B. Visit kenya-airways.com and go to
Flying Blue and then Award Booking.
C. Visit flyingblue.com and go to Spend Miles.
For further information, you can always contact us
at kenya-airways.custhelp.com.
4
Tax
Award Miles do not cover tax charges. These
will need to be paid for by you, and can be done so
via credit card, M-Pesa or a cash payment at any
Kenya Airways office.
5
Easy Does It
Five steps to make
the most of your Miles.
Ticket
Once payment has been received, your e-ticket
will be sent to you by email.
~ Award tickets are subject to seat availability. In the
event that no seats are available, you can opt for a Flex
Award, which gives you a confirmed ticket for double the
Award Miles.
Getty Images
~ Award Miles can be used to upgrade to Business
Class when you have already purchased an Economy
Class Kenya Airways ticket on B, Y, M and U classes for
all routes. All upgrades are subject to seat availability in
Business Class.

WE KNOW THAT SOMETIMES GETTING BACK QUICKLY
IS AS IMPORTANT AS GETTING THERE.
With 20 SkyTeam member airlines and a large number of partners to connect you to the world,
travelling is seamless. Covering more than 1,060 destinations worldwide and providing access to over
670 exclusive lounges, SkyTeam makes it easy to get wherever you need to go. Visit skyteam.com

SkyTeam operates more than
17,000 departures a day to 1,062
destinations in 177 countries, and
offers SkyTeam members 673
lounges in airports worldwide.
SkyTeam
SAFARI NJEMA / 97
✈ Founded in June 2000, SkyTeam is a
major airline alliance that consists of
twenty carriers from five continents.
High-fliers
Sharing our
stories
Every journey inspires a story and with a SkyTeam members’
flight taking off around the world every five seconds, we enable
the creation of these stories by reuniting millions of colleagues,
family and friends every day.
With this in mind, we are proud to bring
you SkyTeam Stories – a series of 10
short films that capture the lives and
travels of some of our most frequent
travellers. These high-fliers, influencers
from across the worlds of art and
fashion to food and music, represent
the diversity of our alliance and our
customers. SkyTeam stories offer a new
and exciting way to discover more about
SkyTeam.
To find out more about SkyTeam stories
as narrated by these five travellers, visit
skyteam.com or SkyTeam social media
channels. These travel enthusiasts stories
takes us to different cities across the
world including Sao Paolo, Paris,
Milan, Hong Kong and San Francisco
– while sharing the know-how and
insights that have become second nature
to them along the way. Discover what
drives their passion for travel, the ease
with which they live life across different
continents and how – while they all have
different motivations – they all have
SkyTeam in common.
Their journeys and yours are all possible
through the promise we made at the
start: to care more about our customers.
Whether it’s by making it easier to catch
a connection, breeze through the airport
with our SkyPriority services, or relax in
a SkyTeam lounge – we are working to
make every trip seamless, so your travel
story is always a good one.
SkyTeam’s 17th Anniversary
Our own story started on June 22, 2000,
and in the 17 years since SkyTeam was
founded, we may have grown from four
to thousands of members, but along the
way we have never lost our focus on
making your travels more seamless –
wherever you are going.
Today, SkyTeam’s network of over 1,000
destinations is making the world a
smaller place by connecting you to
places you’ve always wanted to go more
easily than ever before and offering
thousands of different options as you
plan your next adventure.
At SkyTeam we are interested in hearing
your story, so follow us on Facebook,
Twitter, WeChat and Weibo and tell us.
Life is a journey, thank you for letting
us take you on yours.
~ Follow our tips next time you fly and
you’ll discover how getting there can
be as enjoyable as your destination.
Visit skyteam.com to find out more.

98 / SAFARI NJEMA
Global Network
London
GREAT-BRITAIN
THE NETHERLANDS
Amsterdam
Paris
FRANCE
SUDAN
SAUDI ARABIA
Jeddah
Dubai
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Mumbai
SENEGAL
Dakar
Bamako
Freetown
SIERRA LEONE
Monrovia
LIBERIA
MALI
COTE
D'IVOIRE
Abidjan
BENIN
NIGERIA
GHANA Lagos
Accra
Cotonou CAMEROON
Douala
Yaoundé
Brazzaville
Kinshasa
Luanda
CENTRAL
AFRICAN REPUBLIC
Bangui
DEMOCRATIC
REPUBLIC OF
THE CONGO
Khartoum
SOUTH SUDAN
Juba
UGANDA KENIA
Entebbe/Kampala Kisumu
Kigali
RWANDA
Bujumbura Kilimanjaro
BURUNDI
TANZANIA
Addis
Ababa
ETHIOPIA
NAIROBI
Dar es Salaam
Djibouti
DJIBOUTI
Malindi
Mombasa
Moroni/COMOROS
Lubumbashi
ANGOLA
MALAWI
Dzaoudzi/MAYOTTE
Ndola Lilongwe
ZAMBIA
Lusaka
Blantyre
Nampula
Livingstone
Victoria Harare
Falls
Antananarivo
ZIMBABWE
MADAGASCAR
MOZAMBIQUE
Mahé
SEYCHELLES
INDIA
Johannesburg
Maputo
SOUTH
AFRICA
Cape Town
Chantal van Wessel/Vizualism

SAFARI NJEMA / 99
Kenya Airways Fleet
Boeing 737-700
Aircraft 2; Seats Economy 100, Premier 16; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 40”; Max. take-off weight
70,080kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 6,225km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.785;
Thrust per engine at sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m;
Length 33.6m; Interior cabin width 3.53m
CHINA
Hanoi
VIETNAM
Bangkok
THAILAND
Guangzhou
Hong Kong
HONG KONG
Boeing 787 Dreamliner
Aircraft 7; Seats Economy 204, Premier 30; Crew 14;
Seat pitch Economy 32”; Premier 75”; Max. take-off weight
227,930kg; Fuel capacity 126,903 litres; Range 14,500km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.85; Thrust per
engine at sea level 69,800lbs; Wing span 60.1m; Length
56.7m; Interior cabin width 5.49m
Boeing 737-800
Aircraft 8; Seats Economy 129, Premier 16; Crew 8;
Seat pitch Economy 32”, Premier 47”; Max. take-off weight
79,015kg; Fuel capacity 26,020 litres; Range 5,665km; Typical
cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.78; Thrust per engine at
sea level 26,400lbs; Wing span 34.3m; Length 39.5m;
Interior cabin width 3.53m
Embraer 190
Aircraft 15; Seats Economy 84, Premier 12; Crew 7;
Seat pitch Economy 31”, Premier 38”; Max. take-off weight
51,800kg; Fuel capacity 16,153 litres; Range 2,935km;
Typical cruising speed at 35,000ft Mach 0.82; Thrust per
engine at sea level 20,000lbs; Wing span 28.72m;
Length 36.24m; Interior cabin width 2.74m

100 / SAFARI NJEMA
Kenya’s Great Rift Valley
spans 8,000 km
and was formed
20 million years ago.
Welcome to Kenya
✈ KQ exceeded three
million passengers in 2011
– and counting!
Practical tips
What & How
Getty Images
Getting around
On Arrival
TO THE CITY
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is about a 30-minute drive away
from Nairobi city. Moi International Airport, Mombasa is a 20-minute
drive to Mombasa city. More time is needed during rush hour.
VISA
Most visitors to Kenya require a visa. Multiple and single entry visas are
available. You can apply at any Kenya High Commission or Embassy
prior to travelling. The single entry visa (obtainable upon arrival at the
airport) is US$50 (correct at time of print) or the equivalent in local currency.
You will also require a passport that is valid for three months from
the moment of entry.
Health
Emergency services
Dial 999. Note that
ambulance services are
mostly private. Services
include: St Johns
Ambulance +254 72 161
1555 or Kenya Red
Cross Ambulance
+254 71 771 4938.
Hospitals
Nairobi and Mombasa
have good hospitals.
Medical expenses
Make sure you have
adequate travel health
insurance and accessible
funds to cover the cost of
any medical treatment.
Consultations and
treatments will have to
be paid for at the time,
and the costs claimed
back later.
General
Voltage
240 volts AC, using
three-square-pin,
13-amp-type plugs.
Security
It is advisable not to walk
alone in isolated areas
in towns or on beaches,
particularly after dark.
Tipping
Tips are appreciated. Most
hotels/restaurants add a
10 percent service charge.
Water
It is wise to drink or use
only boiled or bottled water,
and to avoid ice in drinks.
Self-drive
Traffic adheres to the lefthand
side of the road, and
most cars are right-hand
drive. A current driving
licence with photograph is
accepted for up to a threemonth
stay.
Public transport
Nairobi is the only city with
an effective municipal bus
service. Local (private)
matatus are the main
means of getting around.
Taxi service Uber operates
in Nairobi and Mombasa.
Photography
Taking photographs of
official buildings, including
embassies, can lead to
detention. Photography is
also prohibited at airports.
Embassies & consulates
All embassies are
located in Nairobi.
ID
You must carry a valid form
of ID with you at all times.
Post office
Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays; and 9
a.m. to 12 noon Saturdays.
Telephone/internet
Phone cards may be
bought from post offices
or international call
offices. Emails can be sent
from most hotels.
Money matters
Currency
Kenyan shilling (KES)
Currency regulations
There are no restrictions on
the movement of currency
into or out of Kenya for
currency transactions.
Banking
Banks are generally open
from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.,
Mondays to Fridays;
and 9 a.m. to 12 noon
Saturdays. Banks in
coastal towns open
and close half an hour
earlier. Most ATMs accept
international VISA cards.
Credit cards
Visa and MasterCard are
widely accepted.
Hotel bill payment
Pay in Kenyan shillings or
convertible currency.
Most hotels also accept
credit cards.
Gulu

SAFARI HABARI NJEMA //101
SOUTH-
SUDAN
ETHIOPIA
Lokichokio
Muruasigar
2149 m
Songot 1755 m
Central
Island
National
Park
Namoratunga
Stones
Lodwar
LAKE
TURKANA
Sibiloi
National
Park
CHALBI DESERT
Moyale
Malka Mari
National
Reserve
LAKE
VICTORIA
UGANDA
Nasolot
National
Reserve
TANZANIA
South
Turkana
National
Reserve
Masai Mara
National Reserve
South
Island
National
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Nairobi
National
Park
LAKE
MAGADI
Shompole
Conservancy
Loiyangalani
Mt Kulal 2285 m
Marsabit
National
Reserve
Losai
National
Reserve
Marsabit
Marsabit
National
Park
Maralal
Saiwa
National Matthew’s Peak
Swamp
Sanctuary 2375 m
Mt Elgon
National
National Park
Kaisungua
Maralal
Reserve
Kitale
3167 m
Samburu
National
Mt Elgon
Kerio Valley
Reserve
Shaba National
4322 m
National Reserve
Reserve
ELDORET
Archer’s Post
LAKE BARINGA
Kakamega
Buffalo Springs
Forest Reserve
Lake Bogoria Isiolo
National
Meru
Reserve
Kakamega
National Reserve
National
Park
Ndere Island
Nanyuki
National Park
KISUMU
Meru
Mt Londiani
Rusinga Island
Kericho
3000 m
North
Nakuru
Mt Kenya Kitu
Lake Nakuru
5199 m
National
Mfangango
National
Park
Nyerri Embu
Reserve
Island
Kisii
Muranga’a Mwea
Ruma
Hell’s Gate
National
National
National Park
Mt Longonot 2777 m Reserve
Park
RIFT VALLEY
Longonot National Park
Thika
Migori
Narok
NAIROBI
Oi Donyo National Park
Chantal van Wessel
OFFICES & AGENTS
Head Office Airport North Road, Embakasi
P.O. Box: 19002 – 00501 Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 (0)20 6422000,
Safaricom +254 0711 02 2000, Airtel +254 0734 10 2000
Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel +254 (0)20 3274747
Safaricom +254 0711 02 4747, Airtel +254 0734 10 4747
Email: customer.relations@kenya-airways.com
JKIA Sales Office Terminal 1C – International Departures
Tel +254 (0)20 6423506/8,
Terminal 1D – Domestic Departures Tel +254 (0)20 6423570
Baggage Services Tel +254 0737 33 3954
Email: delayedbaggage.nbo@kenya-airways.com
KENYA
Voi
Kora
National
Park
Kajiado
West
Chyulu Game
Conservation
Area
Amboseli
National Park
Tsavo
East
National
Tsavo West
Park
National
Park
Mt Kilimanjaro 5895 m
Rahole
National
Reserve
Mwaluganje
Elephant
Sanctuary
Shimba Hills
National
Reserve
Garissa
MOMBASA
Wajir
Tana River
Primate National
Reserve
Arabuko
Malindi Marine
Sokoke
National Park
National
Park
MALINDI
Watamu Marine
National Park
Kilifi
Diani
Kisite Marine National Park
Kisite Marine National Park
Boni
National
Arawale Reserve
National
Reserve
Dodori
National
Reserve
SOMALIA
INDIAN
OCEAN
100 km

The NGO sector in Kenya represents
over 290,000 full-time employees
and volunteers, according to Devex
International Development.
KQ Partners
SAFARI NJEMA / 103
✈ There are an estimated 10 million
non-governmental organizations
(NGO's) worldwide, according to
The Global Journal.
Photo: Steve Walker
Unique partnership
Air Support for NGOs
Ever wondered how NGOs such as
Médecins Sans Frontières get staff and
volunteers to far-flung regions across
the globe, sometimes in a matter of
hours? They turn to Raptim − the
world’s first humanitarian travel
organisation.
Founded exactly 70 years ago, to help
missionaries travel to and from Africa
in the wake of the Second World War,
Raptim has since grown into a
worldwide non-profit partner, helping
to organise the transport of 300,000
humanitarian travellers per year. 80
percent of these travels are destined
for Africa.
“We are dedicated to bringing people
where they are needed most,” says
CEO Bart Kruijsen. Kenya Airways has
supported Raptim in that goal for two
decades, providing flexible tickets and
reduced fares so more funds can go to
helping others.
“Nairobi is the gateway to all NGO
programmes and organisations on the
African continent, and with its broad
network, Kenya Airways is our most
important partner,” Kruijsen explains.
Air travel has always connected people,
and in this case, that can make all the
difference to health, environmental and
emergency programmes on the ground,
across Africa. For more info visit:
www.raptim.org
As one of Raptim’s global partners for
humanitarian travel Kenya Airways understands
how specific the needs and requirements of
humanitarian organizations are. Like Raptim,
Kenya Airways believes the world can be a
better place when care and compassion can
travel where it is needed most.

SAFARI NJEMA / 105
Cargo
Alamy
Insects
Mighty Mites
Text: Annemarie Hoeve
From fruit to flowers, the crew at
Kenya Airways Cargo is used to
handling all types of fragile
freight – but bugs?
Every type of cargo has its own specific
handling instructions. This is especially
true of the black sealed-bottles that
contain tiny live insects known as
Phytoseiulus persimilis, a type of
predatory mite. The mites are used as a
natural, eco-friendly alternative to
chemical pesticides on farms. They are
shipped to destinations far and wide,
such as Johannesburg and Amsterdam.
Once they are let loose, these voracious
carnivores immediately set to work,
preying on spider mites that can destroy
valuable food crops like French beans
and snow peas.
Kenya Airways helps to disperse these
mites worldwide. While in transit, they
need to be kept at a cool temperature
and handled carefully. They are trans-
ported every two weeks, in 10-kg batches.
Benjamin Wagude is one of the Kenya
Airways Cargo staff members involved in
managing these live shipments.
“It’s amazing how a single, small bottle
can hold thousands of insects – enough
to stop pests from destroying almost
half a hectare of vegetables,” says
Wagude. “I’m happy to be part of the
team that ensures that the insects reach
the farms in good condition, ready to do
their thing.”

106 / SAFARI NJEMA
KQ won the Best
Business Class in
Africa for four years
in a row from World
Travel Awards.
Get Comfortable
✈ KQ received an International
Safety Award in 2014 from the
British Safety Council.
What you need to know
Flight Mode
Safety
Please watch the safety demonstration before
take-off and refer to the leaflet in your seat
pocket. Smoking is prohibited on all flights.
Electronic devices including laptops, tablets
and mobile phones may not be used during
take-off and landing.
Hand luggage
Place hand luggage in the overhead storage
or beneath the seat in front of you. Cabin crew
will remove hand luggage from passengers
seated in exit rows for take-off and landing.
1 Get a good night’s sleep, eat a light
meal and take some gentle exercise
before your flight.
Travel
On The Move
Six top tips for a healthy and comfortable journey
2 Wear comfortable clothing and shoes.
3 Keep your circulation going by standing
up and walking in the aisle when
possible. Flex muscles in your feet, arms,
shoulders and neck.
4 Low cabin humidity on longer
journeys can cause dry eyes, nose and
throat. Remove contact lenses and apply
Quote
moisturiser and lip balm. Avoid salt,
drink plenty of water and moderate
your intake of alcohol, tea and coffee.
“Whatever you are looking
for is also looking for you”
– Sahndra Fon Dufe –
Cameroon-born actress and author
5 When travelling across time zones
your body’s sleep rhythms can become
disrupted, leading to insomnia, loss of
appetite and fatigue. Try to give yourself
some time to adjust to new night and
day cycles when you arrive.
6 On arrival spend as much time as
possible outside. Sunlight helps your
body to adjust to a new time zone.
Seat adjustments
Ensure your seat is upright for take-off and
landing.
Infants
Baby-changing tables can be found in
selected toilets. The crew will help prepare
baby food. Cots are available on some flights.
Inflight service
A hot meal is normally served during longhaul
flights. Special-diet or vegetarian meals
are available when pre-ordered. There is a
courtesy inflight bar service for wine, beer,
spirits and soft drinks.
Entertainment
Seat-back entertainment featuring a range of
movies and music is available on our long- and
medium-haul flights. Please refer to the IFE
guide in Msafiri.
Take-off
The aircraft climbs steeply immediately after
take-off. Shortly afterwards you will hear
a reduction in the engine sound, while the
aircraft continues to climb. All aircraft cabins
are pressurised. Due to a change in pressure
during take-off and landing, some passengers
may experience slight discomfort in their ears.
Relieve this by swallowing, yawning or pinching
the nostrils gently, while keeping lips sealed.
Landing
After touchdown you may hear an increase in
engine noise due to the reverse thrust applied
to assist braking. Remain seated until the
engines are off and the doors are open.