2017 04 Aug Sept

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FEATURE JAIPUR This Page,clockwise from top, the stunning marble staircase at the Sujan Rajmahal Palace; afternoon tea is served every day to guests; entertainment at the poolside terrace; a suite at the Rajmahal Palace Previous page: (left) the cool Colonnade restaurant at Sujan Rajmahal Palace (right) a private dining experience in rural Rajasthan organised by Amanbagh 1<strong>04</strong> World Travel
WE ARE GREETED - RATHER FITTINGLY - WITH A GLASS OF ROSE SPARKLING WINE In pink as the regal entranceway. Half a dozen smiling and the midst of negotiating the hectic roads of Jaipur, the bustling capital of Rajasthan, our driver suddenly swings the car into a discreet driveway. We pass through a turreted “elephant gate” painted a pretty pale pink and follow the gravelled route flanked by verdant gardens before pulling up outside a palace painted in the same smartly dressed men each wearing a distinctive candy pink turban wait to welcome us. We are greeted – rather fittingly for The Pink City – with a glass of rose sparkling wine. So far, so Jaipur perhaps but inside is a complete surprise. Sujan Rajmahal Palace, now a luxury boutique hotel, may be approaching 300 years old but its interior has been decorated in a refreshingly contemporary way. Each of the public spaces is adorned with fantastically striking, custom made wallpaper from bright pinks and turquoise blues to sultry Art Deco Chinoiserie and Indian inspired designs. The chandeliers, antiques and paintings remind you however that you are staying in a royal residence. As palaces go Rajmahal is on the petite side rather than a mammoth mausoleum with just 14 guest rooms – it was commissioned by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II for his wife. Society interior designer Adil Ahmad, recently commissioned to spruce the place up, has achieved a sumptuous cosiness that feels like a private home albeit a very grand one. Jaipur’s royal family still own Rajmahal (it is run by Sujan, the renowned company behind three luxury tented camps in Rajasthan) and the princess has an office in the grounds though they reside in the far larger City Palace in old Jaipur (the hotel can arrange a private tour of this palace as well as secure you a set in the royal box at the polo). While still a royal residence, Rajmahal played host to the likes of Queen Elizabeth the second, the Prince and Princess of Wales and Jackie Kennedy as the framed black and white photographs and the names of the suites attest. Beautiful carpets gifted by another distinguished visitor, the Shah of Iran, hang on the walls as the Maharini magnanimously wanted everyone to enjoy them. The family’s love of “the sport of kings” is also reflected in The Polo Bar, lined with trophies and photographs. Our Palace Room is reached via a stunning marble staircase and like all the guest rooms and suites lies discreetly behind mirrored doors which adds to the feeling of a private home. Inside our host tells me “A Maharini does not make her own coffee,” before explaining that there are no facilities for hot beverages in the room: “You ring, and we will bring you coffee.” Once you’ve ticked off sightseeing inside the old walled city and the Amber Fort; and shopped ‘til you’ve dropped in the bazaars and boutiques, Rajmahal Palace provides a whimsical oasis. We spend our days exploring in the early mornings, after breakfasting on fresh juice and stuffed parathas, and retreating to Rajmahal in the heat of the afternoon. The hotel has the bonus of a large, glamorous looking swimming pool surrounded by inviting sun loungers. The designer has had fun here too with a shady terrace complete with mirrors and modern chandeliers which look spectacular at dusk. And a note for shopping fans: there’s a branch of the revered New Delhi based Kashmir Loom at Rajmahal so you can stock up on the best cashmere shawls without leaving the grounds. Another unique touch is that afternoon tea is served to hotel guests every day between 4 pm and 6 pm. You may have it wherever you wish, but one particularly charming spot is on the manicured lawn under a series of attractive open sided tents (pale pink of course). A pleasant surprise for the (relatively) diminutive size of the hotel is that there are three dining rooms, each more strikingly designed than the other: the grand Orient Occident is open for dinner while the cool mint Colonnade and 51 Shades of Pink (decorated as the name suggests) restaurants both serve breakfast and lunch. All offer the same menu of Indian and Western dishes; we stuck resolutely to the former which is excellent. We also tried one of the Sujan Rajmahal Palace’s private dining experiences one evening, dining in one of the aforementioned tents on the lawn. At night the scene is enticingly lit by lanterns and makes for a gorgeous venue. As a Rajmahal guest, arrangements may also be made for World Travel 105
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2017 04 Aug Sept

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