2017 04 Aug Sept

WE ARE GREETED - RATHER FITTINGLY - WITH A GLASS OF
ROSE SPARKLING WINE
In
pink as the regal entranceway. Half a dozen smiling and
the midst of negotiating the hectic roads of
Jaipur, the bustling capital of Rajasthan,
our driver suddenly swings the car into
a discreet driveway. We pass through a
turreted “elephant gate” painted a pretty
pale pink and follow the gravelled route
flanked by verdant gardens before pulling
up outside a palace painted in the same
smartly dressed men each wearing a distinctive candy
pink turban wait to welcome us. We are greeted – rather
fittingly for The Pink City – with a glass of rose sparkling
wine.
So far, so Jaipur perhaps but inside is a complete
surprise. Sujan Rajmahal Palace, now a luxury boutique
hotel, may be approaching 300 years old but its interior
has been decorated in a refreshingly contemporary way.
Each of the public spaces is adorned with fantastically
striking, custom made wallpaper from bright pinks and
turquoise blues to sultry Art Deco Chinoiserie and Indian
inspired designs. The chandeliers, antiques and paintings
remind you however that you are staying in a royal
residence.
As palaces go Rajmahal is on the petite side rather than
a mammoth mausoleum with just 14 guest rooms – it
was commissioned by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II for
his wife. Society interior designer Adil Ahmad, recently
commissioned to spruce the place up, has achieved a
sumptuous cosiness that feels like a private home albeit a
very grand one. Jaipur’s royal family still own Rajmahal
(it is run by Sujan, the renowned company behind three
luxury tented camps in Rajasthan) and the princess has an
office in the grounds though they reside in the far larger
City Palace in old Jaipur (the hotel can arrange a private
tour of this palace as well as secure you a set in the royal
box at the polo).
While still a royal residence, Rajmahal played host to
the likes of Queen Elizabeth the second, the Prince and
Princess of Wales and Jackie Kennedy as the framed
black and white photographs and the names of the suites
attest. Beautiful carpets gifted by another distinguished
visitor, the Shah of Iran, hang on the walls as the Maharini
magnanimously wanted everyone to enjoy them. The
family’s love of “the sport of kings” is also reflected in
The Polo Bar, lined with trophies and photographs.
Our Palace Room is reached via a stunning marble
staircase and like all the guest rooms and suites lies
discreetly behind mirrored doors which adds to the feeling
of a private home. Inside our host tells me “A Maharini
does not make her own coffee,” before explaining that
there are no facilities for hot beverages in the room: “You
ring, and we will bring you coffee.”
Once you’ve ticked off sightseeing inside the old walled
city and the Amber Fort; and shopped ‘til you’ve dropped
in the bazaars and boutiques, Rajmahal Palace provides a
whimsical oasis. We spend our days exploring in the early
mornings, after breakfasting on fresh juice and stuffed
parathas, and retreating to Rajmahal in the heat of the
afternoon. The hotel has the bonus of a large, glamorous
looking swimming pool surrounded by inviting sun
loungers. The designer has had fun here too with a shady
terrace complete with mirrors and modern chandeliers
which look spectacular at dusk. And a note for shopping
fans: there’s a branch of the revered New Delhi based
Kashmir Loom at Rajmahal so you can stock up on the
best cashmere shawls without leaving the grounds.
Another unique touch is that afternoon tea is served to
hotel guests every day between 4 pm and 6 pm. You may
have it wherever you wish, but one particularly charming
spot is on the manicured lawn under a series of attractive
open sided tents (pale pink of course).
A pleasant surprise for the (relatively) diminutive size
of the hotel is that there are three dining rooms, each
more strikingly designed than the other: the grand Orient
Occident is open for dinner while the cool mint Colonnade
and 51 Shades of Pink (decorated as the name suggests)
restaurants both serve breakfast and lunch. All offer
the same menu of Indian and Western dishes; we stuck
resolutely to the former which is excellent.
We also tried one of the Sujan Rajmahal Palace’s private
dining experiences one evening, dining in one of the
aforementioned tents on the lawn. At night the scene is
enticingly lit by lanterns and makes for a gorgeous venue.
As a Rajmahal guest, arrangements may also be made for
World Travel 105