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Selwyn Times: May 09, 2017

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SELWYN TIMES Latest Christchurch news at www. .kiwi<br />

Tuesday <strong>May</strong> 9 <strong>2017</strong> 27<br />

Travel<br />

More to Rarotonga than the beaches<br />

• By Mike Yardley<br />

PLANNING an escape to<br />

Rarotonga?<br />

Tear yourself away from the<br />

beach to dig a little deeper at the<br />

roots of the island. Venture along<br />

the back road and enter a timeless<br />

world of free-range harmony in<br />

abundance.<br />

On my various forays along the<br />

back road, I feasted on freshlyplucked<br />

pawpaw, mango, guava,<br />

bananas and star-fruit, bursting<br />

from the roadside trees.<br />

Scenically insatiable, I marvelled<br />

at the colourfully-painted<br />

hinterland homes and the dense<br />

plantations, bracketed by Rarotonga’s<br />

serrated peaks which<br />

exude a Jurassic Park aura.<br />

There are many ways to get<br />

a flavour for Rarotonga’s vast<br />

green heart, including taking a<br />

ride with the recently launched<br />

Tik-e Tours. These tropical<br />

three-wheeler luxury tuk-tuk<br />

limousines are fully electric, so<br />

unlike the racket they make on<br />

the streets of Bangkok, these<br />

beauties will glide you around<br />

Rarotonga’s ravishing interior in<br />

virtual silence.<br />

My driver/guide was a worldly<br />

elder called Mata, a natural and<br />

charismatic raconteur. Throughout<br />

my tour, every passer-by<br />

warmly waved out to Mata, or<br />

stopped to chat. One chap we<br />

talked to was busy cultivating<br />

noni fruit by hand.<br />

Lauded by locals for centuries<br />

for its numerous health benefits,<br />

noni juice has taken the world by<br />

storm and is the Cook Islands’<br />

No 1 agricultural export product.<br />

My two-hour tour traversed a<br />

slew of insights, including stops at<br />

TROPICAL: Ikurangi’s foliage is typical of the Rarotongan hinterland. Right – Shower in the open air at the Ikurangi Eco-Retreat.<br />

ancient marae sites, a rendezvous<br />

with Government House, the<br />

magnificently carved new war<br />

memorial in honour of the 500<br />

local soldiers who fought in<br />

World War 1, Tinomana Palace<br />

and the sacred Great Migration<br />

site of Avana Passage.<br />

Operating for just over a year,<br />

the people behind Tik-e Tours<br />

are Cook Islander Tania Farman<br />

and her husband, Karl, who<br />

have swapped corporate life in<br />

Auckland for the Rarotongan<br />

lifestyle, while injecting an<br />

innovative and eco-friendly<br />

tourism product into the mix.<br />

www.tik-etours.com<br />

For more heartland hi-jinks<br />

I jumped behind the wheel of a<br />

Rarotonga Buggy Tour. These<br />

grunty off-road vehicles are a<br />

cross between a kart and a beach<br />

buggy, highly manoeuvrable and<br />

hardy.<br />

They’re even kitted out with roll<br />

cages if it all goes badly wrong.<br />

These wildly popular buggy<br />

tours have been making quite a<br />

splash for two years. Our conga<br />

line of yellow buggies looked<br />

like a slithering giant snake. The<br />

biggest mud pits awaited us at the<br />

site of ill-fated and abandoned<br />

Sheraton Hotel development,<br />

where the grounds have been<br />

reworked as an off-road buggy<br />

track, which is where I got utterly<br />

splattered in mud, as we ripped<br />

up and down the mounds of the<br />

track.<br />

Our touring route also romped<br />

into the hinterland and the<br />

Turangi Valley, thickly carpeted<br />

with tropical rainforest. Seriously<br />

good fun if you like to get down<br />

and dirty. www.rarobuggytours.<br />

com<br />

Swathed in jungle-like tropical<br />

foliage, the environmentallyfriendly<br />

embrace of Ikurangi Eco-<br />

Retreat is a winning new roost in<br />

Rarotonga.<br />

Established by Luana and Matt<br />

Scowcroft last year, this thoughtfully<br />

created offering treads a very<br />

light footprint. You’ll notice the<br />

sustainability elements wherever<br />

you turn.<br />

The toilets are self-composting,<br />

the beautiful toiletries by Ashley<br />

& Co are studiously organic, the<br />

natural and biodegradable cleaning<br />

products, a sustainable waste<br />

management system, all materials<br />

are sustainably sourced and<br />

there’s free use of bicycles to go<br />

exploring.<br />

Being uber-boutique, the experience<br />

is absolutely distinctive,<br />

personalised and ultra-attentive.<br />

Luana says: “We think of it as a<br />

unique combination of the allure<br />

of a safari with the romance of the<br />

South Seas, where luxury meets<br />

sustainability.”<br />

I loved sleeping in my luxury<br />

safari tent, stunningly furnished,<br />

and perched on a deck to allow<br />

airflow.<br />

A tropical breakfast was<br />

delivered to my deck each<br />

morning and I adored the<br />

locally-roasted, fair trade plunger<br />

coffee.<br />

I awoke each morning to the<br />

“Tail of the Sky,” Mt Ikurangi,<br />

gilded in the glow of the rising<br />

Rarotongan sun, and I revelled<br />

in the novelty of showering in<br />

the open-air bathroom, flanked<br />

by swaying palms and bountiful<br />

banana trees.<br />

FAST FACTS<br />

•Set amid the bountiful<br />

hinterland beauty, but just<br />

minutes from the beach,<br />

Ikurangi Eco-Resort is a<br />

masterclass in sustainable<br />

hospitality in paradise. Five<br />

per cent of Ikurangi Eco<br />

Retreat profits go to local<br />

conservation initiatives.<br />

www.ikurangi.com<br />

I do love how Rarotonga<br />

is replete with colourful<br />

roadside stalls brimming<br />

with freshly picked produce<br />

and alluring treats, like<br />

organic fruit ice cream.<br />

They directly help villagers<br />

supplement their incomes.<br />

It’s a great way to give back.<br />

www.feelraro.co.nz

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