Travel Vietnam – Hong Kong Made in Southeast Asia A state-sponsored visit by Panti Bliss last year to speak in Southeast Asia about the marriage referendum has put the region on the map for queer Irish travellers. Andrew Byrne checks out two destinations with his gay hat on: Vietnam and Hong Kong.
VIETNAM: Luxurious relaxation, history and unspoilt beauty “You’re a real ladykiller now,” says the woman at the downtown Saigon nail spa, admiring her work on my paws, before tilting her head and peering at me sideways: “But maybe you’re a mankiller, I can’t tell…” Saigon locals are a shrewd lot. I assure her that no one’s life is at risk, especially from an overly pampered Irish tourist getting his first mani-pedi. Vietnam may be one of Southeast Asia’s less developed holiday destinations, but a holiday there offers a tantalising mix of luxurious relaxation, history and – for now – unspoilt beauty. As the gentle inquisition at the nail spa attests, it’s also a country where gay life is increasingly viewed with friendly curiosity. A quasi state visit by Queen of Ireland Panti Bliss in September has underlined the allure Vietnam offers LGBT+ travellers in search of a destination untouched by circuit parties or the other trappings of mass gay culture. Ho Chi Minh, or Saigon as it is still commonly known, is an ideal starting point for a visit to Vietnam – a country modernising so quickly that it seems to change before your eyes. Skyscrapers shoot up from the muddy banks of the river Saigon, dwarfing the small but elegant French colonial-era buildings of the city centre. Still the vestiges of an older Vietnam remain – follow the narrow river boats of the vegetable traders out of the city to the floating markets of the Mekong Delta. There you can glimpse a rural way of life that is already disappearing, as humble river huts are replaced by shiny McMansions. Back in Saigon, the city’s war memorial museum provides a stark account of the brutal war fought by US forces for years, and the horrific toll it left on Vietnam’s people. The nearby Cu Chi Tunnels reveal the grim determination of the Viet Cong to drive the Americans out, whatever the cost. Saigon may be transforming at breakneck speed, but Bangkok it is not. Vietnam remains a one-party Communist state with a more conservative streak than some of its neighbours. Lawmakers decriminalised gay marriage in 2015, although the state still doesn’t recognise any same-sex unions. Gay dating apps like Grindr have probably stunted the growth of a bigger scene in Saigon but there are still some spots where boozy homos and their friends gather. Qui bar is an upmarket cocktail lounge where the local fashion set – including a hefty quota of bright young gays – gather to see and be seen. Whisky and Wares is a cosier cocktail bar run by a friendly American and has become an unofficial meeting spot for expats and local gays. If the clouds lift before you leave, grab a cocktail in your freshly manicured hand and watch the sunset over this fabled city. HONG KONG: City of contrasts If Saigon is slowly inching its way onto the LGBT+ holiday destination map, then Hong Kong is the mature, well-heeled queen who’s been entertaining the likes of you since long before you were born. The city’s contrasts are legendary: both Chinese and international, modern and traditional. Sharp-suited bankers and lawyers spend their weekdays in skyscrapers above the clouds and their weekends on tree-lined beaches across the bay – minus the suits, of course. Hong Kongers prize their autonomy within China and the island’s cosmopolitan identity is underlined by a huge expatriate community and reminders of its British colonial past: trams, red letterboxes and an old funicular railway up to the Peak. You may even witness a few wedding proposals at this romantic spot, with majestic views. Otherwise this is a city with a space-age modern feel, but even so, Hong Kong’s laws have some ways to go. The government have still not enacted anti-LGBT+ discrimination laws. Nor are same-sex unions recognised. But the LGBT+ community is increasingly prominent. Luxury shoppers can find every known prestige label in the city’s malls, but a hike might leave your bank balance in better shape. Hong Kong’s territory includes several lush, pristine islands with long white beaches. Catch a ferry and you will find nature and fresh air just an hour away from the city’s bustle on Lantau Island. For an affordable and authentic Cantonese lunchtime experience, head straight to Maxim’s Palace on the second floor of city hall. There a legion of smiling middle-aged aunties push steaming trollies of dim sum from table to table in a large gilded hall by the riverbank. Point at the helpful pictures on the trolleys and toss a tasty shrimp dumpling into your drooling mouth. Hutong is a pricier eatery on the 28th floor of a tower in Kowloon – on the other side of the harbour. Daring guests will try the succulent Drowned Pigeon while taking in the views of the city’s glittering skyline. Once you’re ready to hit the tiles, check out Behind, a stylish but friendly monthly party, FLM – a well-established favourite, and Petticoat Lane – a stalwart gay bar. Where to Stay: The five-star W Hong Kong is the city’s liveliest, trendiest and most LGBT-friendly hotel. Mingle with the fashionable locals at parties by the stunning rooftop pool and admire the view from Kowloon across the harbour. Rooms from from €265 per night. How to Get There: Emirates Airlines will fly you in luxury from Dublin to Hong Kong via Dubai. Economy fares start at €563, while all-inclusive business class fares start at €2,679. Fares are subject to availability and travel dates. Where to Stay: Le Meridien Saigon offers enormous rooms in the heart of the city from €128 per night in low season and €165 per night in high season. How to Get There: Emirates Airlines will fly you from Dublin to Ho Chi Minh City return via Dubai from €796 all-inclusive economy class or from €2,665 in business class. Fares are subject to availability and travel dates. 35 g
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