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The dive site known as E6 is rich with soft<br />

corals. These are all the more engaging<br />

with the beams of light that pierce<br />

through the perforations in the overhead<br />

environment at The Cathedral.<br />

The hard-coral formations<br />

in the shallows are often<br />

quite extraordinary, as I<br />

experienced in a series<br />

of photos from a 2012<br />

expedition there.<br />

To spend a bit more time<br />

in Taveuni, we opted not to<br />

dive Nigali Pass on this trip.<br />

This was a very tough call,<br />

and it might have been the<br />

first time I’ve ever missed<br />

a shark dive on purpose. I<br />

revisited previous trip logs<br />

to recollect this iconic Fiji<br />

drift dive. The pass is a long<br />

channel that features almost<br />

certain encounters with<br />

horse-eye jacks and chevron<br />

barracuda. Once divers arrive,<br />

bait is strategically placed on<br />

the portion of the reef the<br />

crew calls “the bleachers.” Red<br />

sea bass swarm the bait so<br />

eagerly that I think it makes<br />

the gray reef sharks hang back<br />

a bit. But the sharks come<br />

within camera range — 3 to<br />

5 feet away, typically. The<br />

site features a large, scenic<br />

patch of lettuce coral in very<br />

shallow water, which provides<br />

an interesting place to offgass<br />

at the end of the dive.<br />

This 10-day expedition<br />

featured many other dives<br />

of significance, one of which<br />

I hadn’t visited since the<br />

beginning of the digital era,<br />

which for me was 2001. I<br />

guess it is appropriate that<br />

the site is called E6, named<br />

for the chemical process<br />

used for developing certain<br />

transparency films, and<br />

last time I was there I was<br />

shooting Fujichrome Velvia in a Nikonos V. This time I<br />

was using a 50-megapixel Canon EOS 5DS, and happily I<br />

had far more exposures than the 36 that film had allotted.<br />

The ship’s dive log indicated that those who were on a<br />

quest to photograph marine life on this dive saw schooling<br />

jacks, gray reef sharks, Moorish idols, clown triggerfish<br />

and the ubiquitous regal angelfish. With my fisheye lens<br />

better suited to large reef scenics, I ignored the reef dwellers<br />

and concentrated on the immense soft-coral-decorated<br />

foreground, while shafts of light pierced The Cathedral.<br />

74 | WINTER <strong>2016</strong>

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