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Times of the Islands Fall 2018

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS FALL <strong>2018</strong> NO. 124<br />

ISLANDS<br />

FREEDIVING<br />

Confronting <strong>the</strong> Deep<br />

KAYAK FISHING<br />

A South Caicos Original<br />

SEA SHEPHERD<br />

Protecting <strong>the</strong> Voiceless


H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />

EFFORTLESS? OR BRILLIANTLY UNCONVENTIONAL?<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

THE PALMS<br />

THE PALMS<br />

THE SHORE CLUB<br />

The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />

Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />

for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />

savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />

on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />

magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />

and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />

which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />

THE COOL SIDE OF CLASSIC<br />

649.946.8666<br />

<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />

WRITE YOUR STORY HERE<br />

649.339.8000<br />

<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com


TURKS & CAICOS<br />

Generation<br />

Everyone<br />

Everything’s Included for Everyone!<br />

2017<br />

2017<br />

More Quality<br />

Inclusions than<br />

any o<strong>the</strong>r Resorts<br />

in <strong>the</strong> World<br />

At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own perfect vacation. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong> white-sand<br />

beaches and calm waters featuring unlimited land and<br />

water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong> awesome 45,000 sq.<br />

ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global<br />

Gourmet TM Dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and<br />

non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />

included. Even <strong>the</strong> tips, taxes, and Beaches transfers*.<br />

We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks, new live<br />

entertainment, and re-styled accommodations<br />

… making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better for<br />

Generation Everyone.<br />

®<br />

Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa<br />

by Sandals<br />

BEACHES.COM in <strong>the</strong> U.S. & Canada: 1-800-BEACHES<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos 649-946-8000<br />

@beachesresorts<br />

WORLD’S BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

20<br />

TURKS & CAICOS<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD ®<br />

TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

by Sandals<br />

*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc., is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.


contents<br />

Departments<br />

6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />

13 Eye on <strong>the</strong> Sky<br />

Last Call?<br />

By Paul Wilkerson<br />

18 Getting to Know<br />

Lost at Sea: Rocky Higgs<br />

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />

46 The Sporting Life<br />

Gone Fishin’<br />

Story & Photos By John Galleymore<br />

66 Around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Making a Cut: SNiP<br />

By Kathy Borsuk<br />

72 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />

77 Where to Stay<br />

79 Classified Ads<br />

80 Dining Out<br />

82 Subscription Form<br />

Features<br />

22 The Voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Voiceless: Sea Shepherd<br />

By Kelly Currington<br />

34 Diving Free<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

Green Pages<br />

28 An Unexpected Landing<br />

By B Naqqi Manco<br />

30 Keeping Turtles Out <strong>of</strong> Trouble<br />

By <strong>the</strong> Marine Conservation Society<br />

Photos By Marta Morton, Harbour Club Villas<br />

33 Trash to Cash<br />

Story & Photos By Amy Avenant<br />

TIMES<br />

OF THE<br />

SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS FALL <strong>2018</strong> NO. 124<br />

On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />

Photographer Agile LeVin captured this magnificent<br />

shot <strong>of</strong> freediver Samantha Kildegaard, <strong>of</strong> Free Dive<br />

With Me, at Malcolm’s Road Beach on Providenciales.<br />

Agile, who grew up and currently resides in Turks &<br />

Caicos, has been turning his camera to <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />

beauty for most <strong>of</strong> his life. He, along with his bro<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Daniel, produce VisitTCI.com, a website filled with<br />

comprehensive and current information about <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> and more <strong>of</strong> his stunning photography.<br />

66<br />

ISLANDS<br />

Astrolabe<br />

54 Casualties <strong>of</strong> War<br />

By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />

59 One Page at a Time<br />

By Dr. Kelley Scudder-Temple, Dr. Michael P.<br />

Pateman and Vanessa Forbes-Patemen<br />

COURTESY SNIP TCI<br />

4 www.timespub.tc


TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Prince’s Turks and Caicos Estate<br />

The exclusive private sanctuary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late iconic musician Prince. This 6 bedroom oceanfront<br />

mansion is adjacent to o<strong>the</strong>r multi-million dollar estates in <strong>the</strong> upscale Turtle Tail area on <strong>the</strong><br />

sou<strong>the</strong>rn shore <strong>of</strong> Providenciales. Spanning 5.74 acres this stunning compound perched on over 40<br />

ft. <strong>of</strong> elevation allows for <strong>the</strong> most breathtaking panoramic turquoise ocean views. Own a stunning<br />

home and a piece <strong>of</strong> music history. Contact Bernadette for fur<strong>the</strong>r details and to arrange a showing.<br />

US$9,900,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />

development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />

on independent figures her gross transaction<br />

numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />

listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />

North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />

to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />

condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />

undeveloped sites.<br />

Ultra Exclusive Pine Cay - McBride House<br />

Discerning investors take note; McBride House a very exclusive Pine Cay island home in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos is now available to purchase pending Pine Cay Homeowners Association membership approval.<br />

A true island home, with a laidback vibe and an emphasis on natural beauty and <strong>the</strong><br />

simple pleasures in life. Centrally located directly in front <strong>of</strong> a beautiful freshwater pond<br />

and just steps away from <strong>the</strong> Meridian Club resort and 2 miles <strong>of</strong> secluded pristine beach.<br />

US$1,400,000<br />

Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />

independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />

Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />

and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />

Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />

earned over time through her dedication,<br />

enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />

personal experience as having practiced law<br />

in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />

properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />

her customers and developers on what to<br />

anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />

process.<br />

Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />

estate industry and her humor and energy<br />

make her a pleasure to work with.<br />

Parrot Cay Beachfront - Dhyani House<br />

Dhyani House in Parrot Cay, Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is a “must see” property for<br />

discerning real estate buyers seeking peace, tranquility and more seclusion than many o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong> or Providenciales have to <strong>of</strong>fer. Viewings are strictly by appointment<br />

with a minimum <strong>of</strong> 24 hours’ notice and only available to view when not occupied.<br />

US$12,000,000<br />

Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />

to find out more about owning real estate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.


from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />

COURTESY FORTISTCI<br />

One year ago, this was a FortisTCI local linesman’s view <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, as <strong>the</strong> energy company worked to restore power across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Credit Due<br />

As I write this, next week will mark <strong>the</strong> one-year anniversary <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria hitting <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The strange year that followed has blown by in a gust as everyone struggles to pick up <strong>the</strong> pieces<br />

and move forward. My stomach rolls at <strong>the</strong> thought <strong>of</strong> anything close to a hurricane approaching this year, and we<br />

pray <strong>the</strong> season remains quiet.<br />

FortisTCI recently released a documentary that highlights <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se hurricanes and <strong>the</strong> company’s restoration<br />

efforts after <strong>the</strong> storms. (See https://youtu.be/y2UPC9XoBXU). It reminded me how fortunate <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong><br />

were to have all-important power restored so quickly. Electricity enabled <strong>the</strong> bountiful winter/spring/summer tourism<br />

season to happen —which is, in turn, fueling <strong>the</strong> economy’s recovery.<br />

All too <strong>of</strong>ten, when a “storm” passes—be it physical, emotional, spiritual, or all three—we forget <strong>the</strong> people,<br />

organizations and precepts that got us through. In this case it was <strong>the</strong> resilience <strong>of</strong> Islanders and residents, <strong>the</strong> outstanding<br />

businesses that support TCI’s infrastructure and economy, and, for me and many o<strong>the</strong>rs, a strong faith in<br />

God’s good plans for a hopeful future.<br />

How I try to appreciate each sunny day! Lights and fans! Internet at <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice! A hot shower! A cold drink from<br />

a working refrigerator! A truck that runs! A ro<strong>of</strong> that doesn’t leak! And, most <strong>of</strong> all, <strong>the</strong> continuing opportunity to<br />

work with our contributors, advertisers and readers in putting toge<strong>the</strong>r my beloved <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> magazine.<br />

I know you will enjoy this issue.<br />

Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />

timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />

6 www.timespub.tc


TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Ocean Club West<br />

Suite 332 is a beautifully remodeled penthouse<br />

with 2 bedrooms and 2 and a half bathrooms at<br />

<strong>the</strong> extremely popular Ocean Club West. The new<br />

furnishings and ocean views <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay also<br />

enhance <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> this remarkable property.<br />

US$825,000<br />

West Bay Club<br />

Suite 102 is a spacious 1 bedroom and 1 and<br />

a half bathrooms condo with over 1,490 sq.<br />

ft <strong>of</strong> living space. Conveniently located beach<br />

front and level providing expansive views <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> turquoise waters <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach<br />

US$639,000<br />

Bernadette Hunt<br />

Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />

Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />

Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />

development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />

on independent figures her gross transaction<br />

numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />

listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />

North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />

to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />

condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />

undeveloped sites.<br />

Chalk Sound Villa<br />

NEWLY renovated 4 bedroom oceanfront villa<br />

ideal for rental. Located on .46 ac. with 111 ft. <strong>of</strong><br />

waterfront. Features a large pool and deck PLUS a<br />

dock right on <strong>the</strong> turquoise waters <strong>of</strong> Chalk Sound.<br />

US$1,200,000<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay<br />

Suite 6301 is a reduced 1,028 sq. ft. 1 bedroom<br />

and 1 bathroom penthouse condo. The suite was<br />

elegantly refurbished in 2016. Featuring a spacious<br />

balcony with beautiful resort and ocean views.<br />

US$469,000<br />

Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />

independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />

Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />

and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />

Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />

earned over time through her dedication,<br />

enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />

personal experience as having practiced law<br />

in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />

properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />

her customers and developers on what to<br />

anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />

process.<br />

Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />

estate industry and her humor and energy<br />

make her a pleasure to work with.<br />

Asbury Villa - Leeward<br />

Asbury Villa is undoubtedly <strong>the</strong> most luxurious<br />

canal front villa on Kira Isle. With over 6000 sq. ft.<br />

and 3 bedrooms. Sold in turn key condition with<br />

dock and custom waterfront entertaining space.<br />

US$1,485,000<br />

Barefoot Beach House<br />

Barefoot Beach House is located on over 2 acres<br />

and is just 75 steps from <strong>the</strong> turquoise waters<br />

<strong>of</strong> secluded Long Bay Beach. A site worthy <strong>of</strong><br />

redevelopment as a high-end luxury estate.<br />

US$3,200,000<br />

Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />

to find out more about owning real estate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.


FIVE DISTINCT VILLAGES<br />

TO CHOOSE FROM<br />

1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village<br />

2017<br />

2017<br />

THE WORLD’S BEST<br />

IS NOW BETTER THAN EVER<br />

BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />

20<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

Beaches, waterparks, pools—<strong>the</strong>re’s<br />

something for everyone.<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />

WHERE EVERYTHING’S<br />

INCLUDED FOR EVERYONE<br />

At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir own perfect day. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />

white-sand beaches and calm waters featuring land and water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />

awesome 45,000 sq. ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global Gourmet TM<br />

dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />

included—tips, taxes and Beaches transfers*, too. We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks,<br />

new live entertainment, and re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2018</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.<br />

Hang out with some real<br />

characters at Beaches.<br />

Discover a whole world <strong>of</strong> cuisine with<br />

5-Star Global Gourmet dining.<br />

BEACHES.COM • In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional


TM/© 2017 Sesame Workshop<br />

THE WORLD’S BEST IS<br />

BETTER<br />

BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />

20<br />

YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />

Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World Travel<br />

Awards for two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering families more <strong>of</strong> everything<br />

on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />

awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />

For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />

In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />

Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />

and entertainment — always included. And now we’ve added<br />

trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and restyled<br />

accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />

In Turks & Caicos:649-946-8000<br />

or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />

TIPS, TAXES AND BEACHES TRANSFERS* INCLUDED<br />

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD


Five Distinct Villages<br />

to Choose From<br />

1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village 3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />

THANEVER<br />

Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />

is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />

#1 BEST BEACH<br />

by tripadvisor ®<br />

*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2018</strong>btc or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.


PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />

TIMES<br />

MANAGING EDITOR<br />

Kathy Borsuk<br />

OF THE<br />

ISLANDS<br />

ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />

Claire Parrish<br />

“Escape to <strong>the</strong> extraordinary.”<br />

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />

Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, Kelly Currington,<br />

John Galleymore, Dr. Charlene Kozy, B Naqqi Manco,<br />

Marine Conservation Society, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,<br />

Jody Rathgeb, Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson,<br />

Candianne Williams.<br />

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />

Almay Stock Photo, Amy Avenant, Kelly Currington, Patti<br />

Salerno DesLauriers, Barry Dressel, FortisTCI,<br />

John Galleymore, Tim Hamilton, Dr. Donald H. Keith,<br />

David Kennedy, Agile LeVin, Marta Morton, Fay Ninon,<br />

Justin Okoye, Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Tom Rathgeb,<br />

Maria Rigby, Patricia Saxton, Sea Shepherd Conservation<br />

Society, Ramona Settle, Philip Shearer, SNiP TCI, Wikimedia<br />

Commons, Wikipedia, Candianne Williams.<br />

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />

DECR, NOAA, Wavey Line Publishing<br />

PRINTING<br />

sou<strong>the</strong>astern, Hialeah, FL<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />

published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />

Copyright © <strong>2018</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />

under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />

No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />

reproduced without written permission.<br />

Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />

non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />

Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />

assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />

Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />

event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />

claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />

While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />

information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />

subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />

responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />

WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS 2015 - CARIBBEAN’S LEADING BOUTIQUE HOTEL<br />

TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - HOTEL OF THE YEAR<br />

TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR - GRACE’S COTTAGE<br />

PROVIDENCIALES TCI • US TOLL FREE 1.888.209.5582 • T 649.946.5096<br />

RESERVATIONS@POINTGRACE.COM • WWW.POINTGRACE.COM<br />

Business Office<br />

<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />

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Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Tel/Fax 649 946 4788<br />

Advertising 649 431 7527<br />

E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />

Web: www.timespub.tc<br />

12 www.timespub.tc


eye on <strong>the</strong> sky<br />

RAMONA SETTLE<br />

After Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in September 2017, <strong>the</strong> Beach<br />

House resort on Providenciales quickly reinstalled its unorthodox wea<strong>the</strong>r station (and<br />

replaced <strong>the</strong> coconut).<br />

Last Call?<br />

Late-season hurricane surprises.<br />

By Paul Wilkerson<br />

By <strong>the</strong> time this issue hits <strong>the</strong> press and is your hands, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> will have surpassed <strong>the</strong><br />

one year anniversary <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s unwanted arrival. She descended on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> as a catastrophic<br />

Category Five monster that produced tremendous destruction across <strong>the</strong> entire country, leaving many<br />

continuing to make repairs to this day. However, Hurricane Irma severely underestimated <strong>the</strong> spirit and<br />

tenacity <strong>of</strong> all <strong>of</strong> those who call Turks & Caicos home.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 13


In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> such a devastating season, many<br />

Islanders will frequently be checking in online with <strong>the</strong><br />

National Hurricane Center, ever cognizant that <strong>the</strong> next<br />

big one might be on <strong>the</strong> way. Many will wonder if <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>2018</strong> hurricane season will have more challenges in store<br />

for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. As <strong>of</strong> early September, thankfully, <strong>the</strong> season<br />

has been ra<strong>the</strong>r quiet, with only seven named storms,<br />

all <strong>of</strong> which have had no impact on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />

Statistically speaking, nearly 80% <strong>of</strong> all tropical<br />

storms and hurricanes in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin occur between<br />

August 15 and about October 20. So this means we<br />

shouldn’t expect hurricanes to form after late October,<br />

right? Unfortunately, no. In order to understand why hurricanes<br />

do continue to form late in <strong>the</strong> season, we must<br />

take a look at some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> parameters that go into hurricane<br />

formation.<br />

When we are discussing hurricane environment, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are a number <strong>of</strong> things that meteorologists and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

atmospheric scientists are looking for. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

important information is gleaned from whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> upper<br />

level environment is calm (light winds) or if wind shear is<br />

present, <strong>the</strong> current Sea Surface Temperatures (SSTs) and<br />

current pressure patterns in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic.<br />

In order for low pressure systems to develop and<br />

thrive in a specific environment, it is important that very<br />

little to no wind shear is present. Wind shear effectively<br />

will destroy <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> a hurricane in short order <strong>the</strong> stronger<br />

<strong>the</strong> shear becomes. Think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> a hurricane as<br />

you would <strong>the</strong> exhaust pipe on a car. At <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> a<br />

hurricane, warm air is being sucked into <strong>the</strong> middle and<br />

upper levels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane. Once it reaches <strong>the</strong> top, it is<br />

able to evacuate <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm and <strong>the</strong> process<br />

continues. With a car, <strong>the</strong> exhaust pipe allows gases to<br />

escape <strong>the</strong> engine. When wind shear is present, this effectively<br />

disturbs <strong>the</strong> ability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane to evacuate all<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mass (warm air) it is sucking into <strong>the</strong> storm. Over<br />

time, much like a car, it begins to choke, and eventually<br />

begins to weaken and <strong>the</strong>n to be torn apart. In a car, if<br />

you plug <strong>the</strong> exhaust <strong>the</strong> car will soon die, as it is not able<br />

to get rid <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> by-products <strong>of</strong> combustion.<br />

With regard to Sea Surface Temperatures, <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (and o<strong>the</strong>r nearby islands) enjoy very shallow<br />

banks. This can be a double-edged sword. Shallow<br />

banks contribute to <strong>the</strong> beautiful colors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> waters that<br />

draw tourists from around <strong>the</strong> world. That is <strong>the</strong> good<br />

side. The not-so-good side is that <strong>the</strong>se shallow waters<br />

tend to get very, very warm during <strong>the</strong> summer and into<br />

<strong>the</strong> fall season. Traditionally, <strong>the</strong> water in <strong>the</strong>se areas as<br />

well as <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Sea and Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico continue<br />

Sea surface temperatures play a role in hurricane formation. This map<br />

shows <strong>the</strong> SSTs in <strong>the</strong> region as <strong>of</strong> August 9, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

to have temperatures above 80ºF heading into <strong>the</strong> later<br />

portions <strong>of</strong> hurricane season. Water temperatures above<br />

80ºF are generally needed to sustain tropical activity. This<br />

provides <strong>the</strong> fuel that is needed should low pressure be<br />

in <strong>the</strong> area.<br />

Lastly, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r important criteria is <strong>the</strong> current<br />

pressure situation in <strong>the</strong> region. During <strong>the</strong> later portion<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season, traditionally we will not find storm development<br />

occurring well out in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin (east <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Leeward <strong>Islands</strong>) due to poor atmospheric and water<br />

conditions. Generally we will be looking at <strong>the</strong> Bahamas,<br />

<strong>the</strong> TCI and Hispaniola to Puerto Rico, as well as <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean Sea and Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico areas. As we head<br />

into late October and, especially, November, cold fronts<br />

from <strong>the</strong> lower 48 states will move into <strong>the</strong> Caribbean as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y weaken. These frontal systems are essentially a low<br />

pressure trough that meanders in <strong>the</strong> warm waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Caribbean as <strong>the</strong>y begin to decay. With warm waters and<br />

light winds, <strong>the</strong>se troughs sometimes can generate low<br />

pressure which can continue to grow and develop into a<br />

tropical system with time.<br />

The reason <strong>the</strong>se are normally few and far between<br />

during <strong>the</strong> later six weeks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season is due to <strong>the</strong><br />

14 www.timespub.tc


These maps show <strong>the</strong> sites where late-season tropical cyclones have originated over <strong>the</strong> years 1851 to 2015.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 15


typical jet stream pattern that sets up as <strong>the</strong> seasons<br />

change. Jet stream energy that remains confined over <strong>the</strong><br />

nor<strong>the</strong>rn U.S. during summer, and allows for generally<br />

calm conditions in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, migrates south during<br />

<strong>the</strong> fall into <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />

This introduces more wind shear into <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico<br />

and Caribbean, thus <strong>the</strong> lower rate <strong>of</strong> storms in <strong>the</strong> late<br />

season.<br />

So how many late season storms have occurred in<br />

and around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> over <strong>the</strong> years?<br />

Looking at data between 1851–2015, <strong>the</strong> TCI has had<br />

fourteen systems in or near <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> between October<br />

21–31, nine between November 1–10, and four between<br />

November 11–20. That is a total <strong>of</strong> 27 recorded storms<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> or in very close proximity (storm<br />

centers passing within 150 miles <strong>of</strong> TCI) based on 164<br />

years <strong>of</strong> recorded data. That is quite a few tropical systems.<br />

As you can see, it is very important to maintain vigilance<br />

throughout <strong>the</strong> entire hurricane season. Contrary to<br />

popular belief, hurricanes do form in <strong>the</strong> waning portion<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season. Island citizens must always stay alert to<br />

what Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature is doing.<br />

Fortunately, on August 9, <strong>2018</strong>, as I prepared this article,<br />

forecasters at <strong>the</strong> National Oceanic and Atmospheric<br />

Administration (NOAA) noted that “Conditions in <strong>the</strong><br />

ocean and <strong>the</strong> atmosphere are conspiring to produce a<br />

less active Atlantic hurricane season than initially predicted<br />

in May.” (See chart below.) This seasonal update<br />

takes into account several factors, including that El Niño<br />

is now much more likely to develop with enough strength<br />

to suppress storm development during <strong>the</strong> latter part <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> season. As well, sea surface temperatures across <strong>the</strong><br />

tropical Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea have remained<br />

much cooler than average. A combination <strong>of</strong> stronger<br />

wind shear, drier air and increased stability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />

in <strong>the</strong> region where storms typically develop will<br />

fur<strong>the</strong>r suppress hurricanes. However, NOAA warns that<br />

<strong>the</strong> hurricane season is far from being over and urges<br />

continued preparedness and vigilance.<br />

By remaining wea<strong>the</strong>r-aware, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

avoided any loss <strong>of</strong> life during Hurricane Irma. That alone<br />

was easily one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> miracles <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year! I wish you<br />

health, happiness and a hurricane-free season.<br />

However, if tropical wea<strong>the</strong>r threatens, you can be<br />

sure I will be following it and alerting Islanders via my<br />

Turks & Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r page on Facebook (Turks and<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info). a<br />

Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist<br />

who frequents <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Along with<br />

his wife and two daughters, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons stay actively<br />

engaged with Islanders and <strong>the</strong>ir families throughout <strong>the</strong><br />

year.<br />

16 www.timespub.tc


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getting to know<br />

Opposite page: People who live close to <strong>the</strong> sea grow up aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir fragility compared to <strong>the</strong> ocean.<br />

Above: North Caican Rocky Higgs is happy to be alive after his ordeal in 1984.<br />

“It makes one to realize how fragile man is,” says Rocky Higgs <strong>of</strong> his experience <strong>of</strong> being lost at sea 34<br />

years ago.<br />

Lost at Sea!<br />

Rocky Higgs recalls his ocean ordeal.<br />

By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />

Low-lying islands such as <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos have always been fragile places, and <strong>the</strong> people who live<br />

so close to <strong>the</strong> sea grow up aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir smallness compared to <strong>the</strong> ocean. Sometimes, though, events<br />

bring <strong>the</strong> message home hard. What happened to Rocky in 1984 was one <strong>of</strong> those events.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 19


Rocky Higgs, a North Caicos man, grandson <strong>of</strong> Paul<br />

Robert Eliston Higgs, was 24 years old <strong>the</strong> day he left<br />

from Five Cays, Providenciales, with his 16 year-old<br />

bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat, to dive for conch. They were headed for<br />

Sand Spit beyond French Cay in a blue 14-foot boat when<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir engine blew out. They dropped anchor to deal with<br />

<strong>the</strong> situation when ano<strong>the</strong>r problem arose: A storm that<br />

dragged <strong>the</strong>m onto a shoal and cut <strong>the</strong> anchor line. The<br />

boat was adrift.<br />

“For five days we went with <strong>the</strong> current,” Rocky<br />

relates. “North, <strong>the</strong>n southwest. We were hoping someone<br />

would come and get us.”<br />

The search for <strong>the</strong> two Higgs boys began quickly, and<br />

Rocky recalls seeing planes above, recognizing <strong>the</strong> Coast<br />

Guard and Clifford Gardiner’s Aztec. But <strong>the</strong> searchers<br />

were unable to spot <strong>the</strong> drifters. “The boat was blue and<br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean was blue.” The drifting pair also saw ships<br />

passing by out to sea, but couldn’t get anyone’s attention.<br />

Rocky recognized his responsibility as <strong>the</strong> elder<br />

bro<strong>the</strong>r. “I tried to build up Nat’s hopes, but help never<br />

came. I was frightened. I was always frightened, but I<br />

couldn’t let my younger bro<strong>the</strong>r be frightened. I would<br />

think about pea soup and dough, johnnycake . . . all <strong>the</strong><br />

good things my mo<strong>the</strong>r would make for us. We would cry,<br />

we prayed, we would sing.” Rocky doesn’t quite remember<br />

if <strong>the</strong>y were on <strong>the</strong> ocean for five, six or seven days,<br />

but he knows he was hungry and thirsty. (He lost 69<br />

pounds from <strong>the</strong> experience.)<br />

Finally, <strong>the</strong>y drifted near a shore, which Rocky realized<br />

when <strong>the</strong>y saw first a huge rock “like a turtle” and<br />

<strong>the</strong>n plenty <strong>of</strong> sea grass, which told him land was near.<br />

“My mind was telling me to get on shore,” he says, so <strong>the</strong>y<br />

jumped out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and swam.<br />

They were separated in <strong>the</strong> water, and Rocky lost his<br />

(now very loose) clothing. He searched for several hours<br />

and finally found his bro<strong>the</strong>r, too weak to walk. “I put him<br />

on a piece <strong>of</strong> plywood and left him to get help.” Rocky<br />

believed he might be on Cuba, but <strong>the</strong>y were actually on<br />

Great Inagua.<br />

Weak and hungry, Rocky lost all orientation. “I walk,<br />

I walk, I walk. I never know where I was going.” One day<br />

he wandered into what looked like a fish camp, where he<br />

found four pounds <strong>of</strong> sugar, matches and about 10 to 20<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> marijuana. “I tried to get high. I made a big fire<br />

and I smoked that weed to comfort myself.” He continued<br />

to wander, looking for both help and for Nat. “I prayed to<br />

die,” he admits.<br />

Rocky Higgs recounts <strong>the</strong> series <strong>of</strong> events that caused him and his bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat to drift to Inagua.<br />

20 www.timespub.tc


Island Organics_Layout 1 8/26/18 9:52 AM Page 1<br />

About eight days later, he saw a one-engine plane<br />

circling. Addled from all his experiences and unsure <strong>of</strong><br />

where he was, he tried to run. But he’d been found by<br />

Joe Smith and Terry Brown <strong>of</strong> Lighthouse Mission Church.<br />

“They put clo<strong>the</strong>s on me and <strong>the</strong>y prayed, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>y<br />

took me to Mat<strong>the</strong>w Town in Great Inagua. I kept asking<br />

for my bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat, saying I couldn’t find him. They tell<br />

me Nat was okay, in <strong>the</strong> hospital.” He’d been found first.<br />

“Oh, <strong>the</strong>y treat us good <strong>the</strong>re,” Rocky recalls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

people on Great Inagua. He and Nat were nursed to health<br />

and fed well by <strong>the</strong> local residents before <strong>the</strong>y were taken<br />

back to North Caicos, where <strong>the</strong>y arrived 14 days after<br />

having left Five Cays.<br />

North Caicos treated <strong>the</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>rs’ return as a cause<br />

for great celebration. The island’s annual Festarama had<br />

been canceled during <strong>the</strong> search, but now <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

cause for happiness. “People from every walk <strong>of</strong> life were<br />

in my mo<strong>the</strong>r’s yard,” Rocky recalls. “Me and Nat stood<br />

up and my mo<strong>the</strong>r threw her arms around me and said<br />

only <strong>the</strong> Lord would understand how she feel. I love North<br />

Caicos and North Caicos people. They really know how to<br />

share a sorrow. They are a caring, loving people.”<br />

Afterwards, Rocky’s grandfa<strong>the</strong>r encouraged him to<br />

go back out on a boat, telling him that if he didn’t, he<br />

would be a coward. Rocky spent many more years getting<br />

conch and lobster, as well as doing some roaming and<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r work, including migrant farm work in <strong>the</strong> United<br />

States. He has 11 children and sees his survival as a part<br />

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Conrad, left above to mind <strong>the</strong> boat, died <strong>of</strong> a heart<br />

attack. “I don’t think <strong>the</strong> sea likes me very much,” he says,<br />

with only a touch <strong>of</strong> irony. He also acknowledges that <strong>the</strong><br />

bargains made with God in hard circumstances dissipate<br />

easily—his at-sea promise to no longer drink went by <strong>the</strong><br />

wayside when <strong>the</strong> thirsty man was given beer.<br />

Yet <strong>the</strong>re is still amazing grace. We’re not perfect,<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 21


KELLY CURRINGTON


feature<br />

Opposite page: Sea Shepherd’s MV John Paul DeJoria visited <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in May <strong>2018</strong> as part <strong>of</strong> Operation Good Pirates.<br />

Above: Each crew member has <strong>the</strong>ir own reason as to why <strong>the</strong>y joined Sea Shepherd, but all have a common thread—<strong>the</strong> desire to be a part<br />

<strong>of</strong> something much bigger than <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />

KELLY CURRINGTON<br />

As I stand here in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> gazing out over <strong>the</strong> beautiful, pristine turquoise sea, I am<br />

hoping I can preserve this moment in my heart and mind. These memories may be <strong>the</strong> only place to see<br />

such scenes in <strong>the</strong> future if <strong>the</strong> human race does not change its ways.<br />

Most <strong>of</strong> us are aware that <strong>the</strong> oceans, and <strong>the</strong> creatures that live in <strong>the</strong>m, have been under siege for<br />

decades. We, as a species, are very quickly eradicating <strong>the</strong>ir health and existence by both legal and illegal<br />

practices.<br />

The Voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Voiceless<br />

Sea Shepherd fights to conserve marine wildlife.<br />

By Kelly Currington<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 23


The oceans are crucial for our very existence and<br />

survival—sustaining all life on Earth ei<strong>the</strong>r directly or indirectly.<br />

Covering almost 75% <strong>of</strong> our planet, <strong>the</strong>y hold 97%<br />

<strong>of</strong> its water. Over half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oxygen in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere is<br />

produced by <strong>the</strong> oceans, as well as absorbing <strong>the</strong> most<br />

carbon dioxide from it.<br />

The delicate ecosystems in our oceans must contain<br />

all <strong>the</strong>ir components to function efficiently and effectively.<br />

Every time a piece <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> puzzle is removed, <strong>the</strong><br />

network breaks down a little, and eventually it will stop<br />

functioning, affecting everything and everyone on Earth.<br />

This is where Sea Shepherd comes in. They are an<br />

organization <strong>of</strong> mostly volunteers who get <strong>the</strong> “big picture”<br />

and are on <strong>the</strong> front lines, fighting to save our<br />

planet.<br />

Sea Shepherd Conservation Society (SSCS) is an<br />

international non-pr<strong>of</strong>it, marine wildlife conservation<br />

organization. It was spawned from <strong>the</strong> Earthforce Environment<br />

Society in Vancouver, Canada, which was created<br />

in 1977 by Paul Watson, a former member <strong>of</strong> Greenpeace.<br />

All over <strong>the</strong> world, innocent creatures and natural<br />

resources are being destroyed at <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> humans.<br />

Captain Paul Watson and Sea Shepherd stepped up to <strong>the</strong><br />

challenge <strong>of</strong> fighting <strong>the</strong>se wrongs and protecting those<br />

who cannot protect <strong>the</strong>mselves. Their fleet <strong>of</strong> battleships<br />

and crew around <strong>the</strong> world fight for <strong>the</strong> innocent victims<br />

<strong>of</strong> unfounded beliefs and traditions, overfishing by bottom<br />

trawling, long lines and ghost nets, and media-fed<br />

misconceptions.<br />

In addition to frontline fighting <strong>of</strong> poaching, nets and<br />

illegal practices, Sea Shepherd also goes ashore and does<br />

conservation and educational work with communities to<br />

help promote eco-friendly living and <strong>the</strong> reduction <strong>of</strong> single-use<br />

plastic. Whe<strong>the</strong>r shore-based or on a vessel at<br />

sea, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> volunteers play a critical role in <strong>the</strong> fight.<br />

A project Sea Shepherd started in 2017 is Operation<br />

Good Pirates. In a nutshell, it means having a ship standing<br />

by in <strong>the</strong> event an island is hit by a hurricane so <strong>the</strong>y<br />

can be deployed and arrive in just a couple <strong>of</strong> days. They<br />

partner with UNICEF, <strong>the</strong> Red Cross, o<strong>the</strong>r non-government<br />

organizations and UN-based agencies. This is what<br />

brought <strong>the</strong> Sea Shepherd’s MV John Paul DeJoria (MV<br />

JPD) to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

The TCI was directly hit by category 5 Hurricane Irma<br />

on September 7, 2017 and two weeks later by category 3<br />

Hurricane Maria. Parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country were without power<br />

for nearly two months, and those who have cisterns were<br />

without direct access to potable water for just as long.<br />

Just knowing that <strong>the</strong>re is a readied ship on call if such<br />

a tragedy strikes again <strong>of</strong>fers a sense <strong>of</strong> security for <strong>the</strong><br />

people.<br />

I was thrilled when I found out <strong>the</strong> Sea Shepherd<br />

group was here and that I could go onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD<br />

and talk to <strong>the</strong> crew. To stand in <strong>the</strong>ir presence and hear<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir stories and tales <strong>of</strong> what <strong>the</strong>y’ve encountered in<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir journeys is humbling. Each crew member has <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own reason as to why <strong>the</strong>y joined Sea Shepherd, but all<br />

have a common thread—<strong>the</strong> desire to be a part <strong>of</strong> something<br />

much bigger than <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />

KELLY CURRINGTON<br />

24 www.timespub.tc


Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />

They’ve left <strong>the</strong>ir “normal” lives behind and traded<br />

<strong>the</strong>m in for a life <strong>of</strong> hard work in what is sometimes very<br />

harsh conditions, long hours reaching into <strong>the</strong> night, isolation<br />

from loved ones and seeing tragedy and heartache<br />

on a daily basis. But that only seems to push <strong>the</strong>m to<br />

keep fighting and protect <strong>the</strong> voiceless even more.<br />

One young woman touched me <strong>the</strong> most. She is <strong>the</strong><br />

bosun aboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD. Rebecca hails from Canada,<br />

is beautiful, confident and knowledgable, but most<br />

importantly, passionate about <strong>the</strong> oceans and <strong>the</strong> creatures<br />

who inhabit <strong>the</strong>m. She carries herself with a quiet<br />

strength that is connected to her belief in this ongoing<br />

war.<br />

Listening to Rebecca tell me about <strong>the</strong> fight to save<br />

endangered animals brought me to tears more than once.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> questions I asked her was how she deals with<br />

<strong>the</strong> heartache <strong>of</strong> retrieving illegal nets where trapped,<br />

innocent creatures have already lost <strong>the</strong>ir struggle for<br />

life. Her response was simple yet powerful, “You cry for<br />

<strong>the</strong> ones who died, but you have to focus on <strong>the</strong> ones you<br />

save.”<br />

Rebecca has been in dangerous situations in attempts<br />

to stop illegal fishing and poaching. Her vessel’s been<br />

boarded by armed poachers and her tender has been shot<br />

at, yet this does not detour her will to stay on <strong>the</strong> forefront<br />

<strong>of</strong> this fight. She explains that working with <strong>the</strong><br />

local police and following <strong>the</strong> laws helps to ensure that<br />

Sea Shepherd’s work continues without detainment and<br />

provides protection for <strong>the</strong> crew. I am completely in awe<br />

<strong>of</strong> her strength, fortitude and advocacy for <strong>the</strong> continued<br />

fight to protect and save those most in need.<br />

Crew member Samele is totally a pirate—a good<br />

one—both in physical appearance and nature. Originating<br />

from Queensland, Australia, he is scruffy and rough and<br />

lives his beliefs while working onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD and in<br />

his personal life. He is a vegan and advocate for simple,<br />

green living in order to reduce his carbon footprint on<br />

this planet.<br />

Prior to coming onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD, he worked<br />

land-based for Sea Shepherd as <strong>the</strong>ir marine debris coordinator<br />

for two years. He started as a deck hand on <strong>the</strong><br />

vessel and has earned his way to assistant bosun and<br />

diver. He also helps with vegan meals onboard for <strong>the</strong><br />

crew. He is completely immersed in <strong>the</strong> war on <strong>the</strong> damage<br />

being done to our planet—both sea and land.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r crew members told similar stories <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong>y<br />

came to volunteer for Sea Shepherd. All wanted to make<br />

a difference in this world and in <strong>the</strong>ir own lives while <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have <strong>the</strong> ability to give <strong>the</strong>ir time.<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 25


COURTESY SEA SHEPHERD CONSERVATION SOCIETY<br />

Sea Shepherd’s diligence and persistent presence and pressure, working alongside <strong>the</strong> Peruvian government, shut down <strong>the</strong> largest fishing<br />

vessel in <strong>the</strong> world. The Damanzaihao, a floating fish factory, was capable <strong>of</strong> killing and processing 547,000 tons <strong>of</strong> fish each year!<br />

Captain Octavio was kind enough to allow <strong>the</strong> crew<br />

to give me a tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ship. It was instantly apparent<br />

that this is a warship and not designed for comfort or<br />

pleasure, but soley for function and battle. Just standing<br />

on <strong>the</strong> dock looking at this vessel you can feel <strong>the</strong> stories<br />

that have permeated its “soul.” The paint job alone<br />

gives poachers warning that it means business and will<br />

not back down—it is an impressive ship!<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir most recently won battles was in Peru.<br />

Sea Shepherd’s diligence and persistent presence and<br />

pressure, working alongside <strong>the</strong> Peruvian government,<br />

shut down <strong>the</strong> largest fishing vessel in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

Damanzaihao, a floating fish factory, was capable <strong>of</strong><br />

killing and processing 547,000 TONS <strong>of</strong> fish each year!<br />

Peru is committed to combatting illegal, unreported<br />

and unregulated fishing (IUU), and if successfully convicted<br />

under <strong>the</strong> Peruvian Penal Code, <strong>the</strong> crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Damanzaihao could face three to five years <strong>of</strong> incarceration<br />

and multi-million dollar fines. Sea Shepherd<br />

continues to supply support to Peru to help <strong>the</strong>m combat<br />

IUU and bring an end to “rampant over-exploitation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

oceans.”<br />

Poaching has directly impacted <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. Our reefs and ecosystems are treasured both<br />

in-country and world-wide. Their health and protection<br />

require a constant effort as poachers come to our pristine<br />

and rich waters to steal.<br />

In 2015, 28 poachers were detained and tried for<br />

removing more than 2,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> marine products<br />

from TCI waters. In that catch were a sea turtle, 1,462<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> lobster (including 69 egg-bearing females),<br />

and 485 pounds <strong>of</strong> parrotfish, which are illegal to fish<br />

at any time. Fourteen unlicensed vessels were confiscated<br />

during this operation. A total <strong>of</strong> approximately 200<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> poached marine catch along with illegal spear<br />

guns were confiscated in 2016 as well.<br />

But it was on March 16, 2017 that a devastating<br />

blow was delivered to <strong>the</strong> TCI at <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> poachers.<br />

The Royal Turks & Caicos Marine Police intercepted <strong>the</strong><br />

Captain Blaze, an illegal Dominican fishing vessel that<br />

was completely loaded down with more than 39,000<br />

pounds <strong>of</strong> poached marine catch, mostly consisting <strong>of</strong><br />

fish, but including sharks and o<strong>the</strong>r vital creatures.<br />

In October 2017, <strong>the</strong> Royal Turks & Caicos Marine Police intercepted<br />

<strong>the</strong> MV Yaniret, <strong>the</strong> boat and fish on board were seized and <strong>the</strong> nine<br />

crew detained for fishing illegally within <strong>the</strong> Fisheries Limits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

26 www.timespub.tc


The 80-foot vessel and its crew <strong>of</strong> 41 Dominican fisherman,<br />

along with a number <strong>of</strong> smaller boats, were towed<br />

to Caicos Marina and Shipyard. The marine products were<br />

unloaded and reportedly distributed to <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI. The Captain Blaze still sits in <strong>the</strong> marina as a constant<br />

reminder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> war at hand.<br />

In casual conversation with my boyfriend Josh, I asked<br />

him what he thought <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate flag that is flown on all<br />

Sea Shepherd vessels. (I wanted an unbiased perspective<br />

on this.) He said, “It reminds me <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate tradition,<br />

only reborn for good.” Our oceans are sensitive organs<br />

that require close attention to <strong>the</strong>ir damage and we need<br />

to be hyper-responsible for stopping and reversing our<br />

negative footprint.<br />

As scuba divers we are advocates for <strong>the</strong> sea, and in<br />

that sense it affects us directly. Yet <strong>the</strong> oceans’ health<br />

and balance also impacts economies all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Every ocean on this planet needs protection if we are to<br />

survive, and a huge part <strong>of</strong> that protection starts with<br />

educating people on what is happening and how to help.<br />

There are so many ways to be a part <strong>of</strong> this movement<br />

to protect <strong>the</strong> planet and speak for those who<br />

cannot speak. The most obvious is donating money, but<br />

you can do o<strong>the</strong>r things like starting educational projects<br />

in your community. Stopping <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> single-use plastic<br />

such as straws and water bottles is something we can all<br />

do. Speak to your local supermarkets about not using<br />

unnecessary packaging like styr<strong>of</strong>oam, or packaging raw<br />

vegetables (as <strong>the</strong>y naturally have <strong>the</strong>ir own container).<br />

Little changes can have a big impact on our planet.<br />

You can start a local Sea Shepherd chapter in your<br />

neighborhood or island where people work toge<strong>the</strong>r to<br />

learn sustainable fishing practices, respect for <strong>the</strong> ocean<br />

and earth, and <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> reassessing old traditions<br />

that serve no purpose o<strong>the</strong>r than being a “tradition.”<br />

Participating in peaceful protest against captivity<br />

is ano<strong>the</strong>r way to help. Sea Shepherd is a powerful, yet<br />

peaceful, organization which only uses force when absolutely<br />

required.<br />

Education is <strong>the</strong> key to any change. If you would like<br />

to learn more about Sea Shepherd and <strong>the</strong>ir ongoing projects<br />

and how you can help, visit www.seashepherd.org.<br />

I only write about topics that I believe in, and I write<br />

from my heart. Sharing this organization’s story is something<br />

I am passionate about. I am honored to have had<br />

<strong>the</strong> chance. Sea Shepherd is <strong>the</strong> true voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> voiceless!<br />

Thank you for all you do. Defend . . . Conserve . . .<br />

Protect! a<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 27


green pages<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />

• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />

• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />

parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />

email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />

DAVID KENNEDY<br />

A black back and primary fea<strong>the</strong>rs, white shoulder stripe, chestnut face and wings, and brown-streaked throat along with small size help<br />

identify <strong>the</strong> Least Bittern, Ixobrychus exilis.<br />

PATTI SALERNO DESLAURIERS<br />

An Unexpected Landing<br />

Least bittern is a new bird record for TCI.<br />

By B Naqqi Manco, DECR Terrestrial Ecologist<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> are a challenge to reach for many animals, but not for most birds. While we have a known resident<br />

avifauna, we are also visited by both migrants, which visit seasonally, and vagrants, which visit<br />

occasionally.<br />

28 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Sometimes birds are lost, or blown here by storms,<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> three groups <strong>of</strong> scaly-naped pigeons that<br />

showed up after <strong>the</strong> 2017 hurricanes (and have since,<br />

apparently, returned to <strong>the</strong>ir homes on <strong>the</strong> Greater<br />

Antilles). O<strong>the</strong>r times, <strong>the</strong>y are exploring new ranges<br />

and expanding, such as <strong>the</strong> increased numbers <strong>of</strong> purple<br />

gallinules noted over <strong>the</strong> last decade. Some, especially<br />

<strong>the</strong> shyest species, probably visit and are never seen by<br />

any human. Recently, one very shy bird showed up on<br />

North Caicos, a navigational mistake on its behalf, having<br />

landed inside a home in Sandy Point.<br />

On August 19, <strong>2018</strong>, North Caicos residents David<br />

Kennedy and Patti Salerno DesLauriers encountered what<br />

was first thought to be a green heron caught in a screened<br />

porch. However, after review <strong>of</strong> photos it was confirmed<br />

to be a least bittern Ixobrychus exilis, a regionally native<br />

but rare bird related to herons. Bitterns are exceptionally<br />

shy and rarely seen in <strong>the</strong> region.<br />

This is <strong>the</strong> first-ever confirmed sighting <strong>of</strong> a least bittern<br />

in TCI. Terrestrial Ecologist B Naqqi Manco registered<br />

<strong>the</strong> sighting with www.eBird.org and it was confirmed as<br />

a new sighting on that database.<br />

The bird recovered and was released back into its<br />

habitat near <strong>the</strong> Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield Landing<br />

Pond Nature Reserve, one <strong>of</strong> our less-known but important<br />

protected areas. The habitat <strong>of</strong> this protected area is<br />

perfect for least bitterns, with expansive areas <strong>of</strong> mangrove,<br />

buttonwood swamp and uninterrupted cattail<br />

marshes. This secretive little wading bird will be hard<br />

to see again but devoted birdwatchers may be able to<br />

encounter it around where it was first sighted.<br />

Keep your eyes out for new bird sightings. With<br />

effects <strong>of</strong> human development expansion and climate<br />

change considered, we will likely be seeing more new<br />

bird arrivals and unusual migration schedules. You can<br />

register all bird sightings on www.ebird.org.<br />

Available as a mobile app, eBird is, according to its<br />

website, “<strong>the</strong> world’s largest biodiversity-related citizen<br />

science project, with more than 100 million bird sightings<br />

contributed each year by eBirders around <strong>the</strong> world. A<br />

collaborative enterprise with hundreds <strong>of</strong> partner organi-<br />

From top: The scaly-napped pigeon showed up in TCI after <strong>the</strong> 2017<br />

hurricanes. This map outlines <strong>the</strong> Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield<br />

Landing Pond Nature Reserve, one <strong>of</strong> TCI’s less-known, but important<br />

protected areas.<br />

zations, thousands <strong>of</strong> regional experts and hundreds <strong>of</strong><br />

thousands <strong>of</strong> users, eBird is managed by <strong>the</strong> Cornell Lab<br />

<strong>of</strong> Ornithology.” a<br />

MARIA RIGBY<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 29


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

This is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> turtles caught, measured and tagged during a recent outing<br />

with SURFside Ocean Academy, who raises funds for <strong>the</strong> Marine Conservation<br />

Society’s TCI Turtle Project.<br />

Keeping Turtles<br />

Out <strong>of</strong> Trouble<br />

Local watersports company hosts turtle tagging expeditions.<br />

Copy Courtesy Marine Conservation Society (www.mcsuk.org)<br />

Photos By Marta Morton, Harbour Club Villas<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Turtle Project is working for better management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> marine turtle populations<br />

found in <strong>the</strong> TCI. Through groundbreaking biological and social research, this collaborative project<br />

aims to involve <strong>the</strong> TCI Government and fishermen in <strong>the</strong> management and monitoring <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />

traditional turtle fishery. The project also uses hi-tech satellite tagging <strong>of</strong> green and hawksbill turtles to<br />

follow <strong>the</strong>ir lives at sea to understand <strong>the</strong> full range <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se highly migratory animals and to find out<br />

how best to protect <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

30 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Marine turtles have been swimming our oceans for at<br />

least 110 million years, but now man’s activities threaten<br />

turtle populations all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

All species <strong>of</strong> turtle are susceptible to accidental capture<br />

in fishing gear. Turtles become entangled in gill nets<br />

and fish traps set inshore close to <strong>the</strong> nesting beaches.<br />

Throughout <strong>the</strong>ir range, marine turtles are still hunted for<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir eggs, meat and shells. For example, marine turtles<br />

are still legally harvested for <strong>the</strong>ir meat in four <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> five<br />

UK Overseas Territories in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, where green<br />

and hawksbill turtles are particularly targeted. It is not<br />

known if <strong>the</strong>se harvests are sustainable, but marine turtle<br />

nesting populations in <strong>the</strong>se territories are critically low.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> tropics, wherever turtles lay <strong>the</strong>ir eggs <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

a demand for <strong>the</strong>m. In several Caribbean countries, raw<br />

turtle eggs are mixed with alcohol and drunk as an aphrodisiac.<br />

In many parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, hawksbill turtles are<br />

targeted for <strong>the</strong> scales on <strong>the</strong>ir shells, which are used to<br />

make tortoiseshell. International trade in wild turtle products<br />

is banned by all <strong>the</strong> countries that have signed up<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Convention on International Trade in Endangered<br />

Species (CITES).<br />

Marine turtles depend on a variety <strong>of</strong> habitats at sea,<br />

as well as <strong>the</strong> all-important nesting beaches. Sadly, <strong>the</strong>se<br />

same beaches are under pressure from development,<br />

especially from <strong>the</strong> tourism industry. If beach development<br />

is carried out insensitively it can lead to erosion<br />

<strong>of</strong> sand from <strong>the</strong> beach, as well as <strong>the</strong> disturbance <strong>of</strong><br />

nesting female turtles through increased activity and light<br />

pollution. The same light pollution disorientates emerging<br />

hatchlings, making <strong>the</strong>m head inland to artificial light<br />

sources ra<strong>the</strong>r than out to sea.<br />

Predicted sea-level rise resulting from climate change<br />

will lead to <strong>the</strong> inland movement <strong>of</strong> beaches, a process<br />

known as coastal squeeze. Vital turtle nesting habitat<br />

could be lost if nesting beaches are prevented from<br />

moving inland by any development or beach armouring<br />

behind <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Marine habitat can also be disturbed or destroyed by<br />

development and o<strong>the</strong>r human activities. For example,<br />

sea grass beds and coral reefs are particularly vulnerable<br />

to degradation if exposed to sewage effluent discharged<br />

into <strong>the</strong> sea, and can also be damaged by heavy boat traffic<br />

and extensive use by ba<strong>the</strong>rs, snorkelers and divers.<br />

Turtles can also be killed by entanglement in and<br />

ingestion <strong>of</strong> marine litter, such as discarded fishing gear,<br />

From top: Oliver Dames gives children <strong>the</strong> opportunity to interact<br />

with a wild sea turtle.<br />

Turtles are carefully measured and inspected to collect data and<br />

tagged, if necessary.<br />

SURFside Ocean Academy’s Morgan Luker (at left) allows guests to<br />

have a close-up look at a sea turtle before it is released.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 31


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

plastic bags and balloons. Turtles cannot digest plastic<br />

and if <strong>the</strong>y eat enough to block <strong>the</strong>ir digestive tract <strong>the</strong>y<br />

will die from starvation.<br />

Climate change will affect marine turtle populations<br />

in several ways. For example, turtle nesting beaches<br />

could be inundated if <strong>the</strong>y are prevented from moving<br />

inland as a result <strong>of</strong> sea-level rise; foraging habitat such<br />

as tropical coral reefs and sea grass beds could die <strong>of</strong>f as<br />

a result <strong>of</strong> sea-level rise, water temperature rise and <strong>the</strong><br />

effects <strong>of</strong> increased storminess and rainfall.<br />

If we don’t act now to change <strong>the</strong> way we treat marine<br />

turtles and <strong>the</strong>ir habitat we may lose some populations<br />

forever.<br />

In Providenciales, SURFside Ocean Academy, led by<br />

Morgan Luker, partners with <strong>the</strong> DECR and <strong>the</strong> Marine<br />

Conservation Society (MCSUK) with regular turtle-tagging<br />

expeditions. The academy’s well-trained team <strong>of</strong> local<br />

guides and turtle specialists capture turtles to collect<br />

data, educate guests on sea turtle conservation and fishing<br />

practices in TCI, and release <strong>the</strong> turtles back to <strong>the</strong><br />

ocean. The hawksbill sea turtle is a critically endangered<br />

species, but is legal to fish in TCI waters.<br />

Since 2009, MCSUK has attached satellite transmitters<br />

to 22 green and hawksbill turtles. Suzie, an adult<br />

green turtle, was <strong>the</strong> first turtle to be tagged by <strong>the</strong> project,<br />

and surprised everyone by taking an incredible 6,000<br />

km round trip over nine months before her transmitter<br />

stopped sending data. Since 2011, MCSUK has focused<br />

on tracking sub-adult (“teenage”) green turtles. They have<br />

attached tags to 20 teenage turtles, and are tracking<br />

some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se animals now.<br />

Morgan says, “We are so lucky to be able to work with<br />

<strong>the</strong>se endangered animals on our educational sea turtle<br />

tagging programs. Through our initiatives, we can better<br />

understand <strong>the</strong> population and trends <strong>of</strong> resident green<br />

and hawksbill turtles, and see if our current fishing regulations<br />

are sustainable. We have also been able to raise<br />

almost $5,000 towards sea turtle research and education<br />

for MCSUK through our experiences.” a<br />

SURFside Ocean Academy (www.surfsideoceanacademy.com)<br />

is an outdoor adventure company and licensed<br />

school with an emphasis on marine-based activities to<br />

help foster an appreciation for and better understanding<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> environment, people and places <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

32 www.timespub.tc


green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />

Trash to cash<br />

Following our recent awareness campaign about just<br />

how “Straws Suck!” (<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island Summer <strong>2018</strong>),<br />

on a return flight from a Sea Turtle Conservation conference,<br />

DECR team members had a look at <strong>the</strong> garbage<br />

floating about and felt inspired! The age-old adage,<br />

“One man’s trash is ano<strong>the</strong>r man’s treasure” came to<br />

mind and with that, our youth Trash to Cash Workshops<br />

were born!<br />

Although not limited to <strong>the</strong> Junior Park Warden<br />

Program (sponsored by <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay Project, and in its<br />

18th year), it proved to be <strong>the</strong> perfect platform to kick<br />

<strong>of</strong>f our first workshop. After a mindful beach clean-up,<br />

where appropriately recyclable items were <strong>of</strong> focus,<br />

wardens thoroughly cleaned <strong>the</strong>ir “trash” to get rid <strong>of</strong><br />

any grit or sticky residue. Training and tips were provided<br />

and tools and <strong>the</strong> necessary equipment supplied<br />

. . . <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>y went!<br />

We encouraged participants to focus on making<br />

appropriate, creative and bespoke pieces from discarded<br />

straws, bottle tops, plastic utensils and bits <strong>of</strong><br />

washed-up rope. In addition, participants were taught<br />

<strong>the</strong> necessary skills needed to put toge<strong>the</strong>r a solid<br />

mini-business plan and how to cost <strong>the</strong>ir items.<br />

Today’s youth tend to be on two extreme sides <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> spectrum: Ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are hyper-sensitive to <strong>the</strong><br />

plight <strong>of</strong> our planet or <strong>the</strong>y are anes<strong>the</strong>tized to <strong>the</strong><br />

impacts <strong>of</strong> cumulative litter strewn in <strong>the</strong> streets. Trash<br />

to Cash opens up a dialogue about how we can reduce,<br />

re-use and recycle, and imagine creative approaches to<br />

fixing a global problem, while allowing participants to<br />

think laterally about <strong>the</strong>ir potential.<br />

The adapted, tailored pieces, hand-made by students,<br />

left us in awe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir creativity. We are excited<br />

for <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>of</strong> a project such as this inspiring a<br />

generation who will face many environmental, social<br />

and economic challenges directly associated with<br />

climate change and human impacts to our planet.<br />

The DECR looks forward to hosting more <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />

workshops in <strong>the</strong> future—and keep an eye out for our<br />

talented participants and <strong>the</strong>ir recycled products at<br />

your local fish-fry event. a<br />

Story & Photos By Amy Avenant,<br />

DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />

Trash to Cash (from top): Step one, collect “trash” from <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Step two, create and decorate. Step three, display <strong>the</strong> beautiful<br />

results !<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 33


PHILIP SHEARER


feature<br />

Opposite page: This is a truly magical Big Blue moment, as captured by photographer Philip Shearer.<br />

Above: Javed Shearer enjoys <strong>the</strong> ocean’s beauty and bounty in a cave on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air.<br />

PHILIP SHEARER<br />

Diving Free<br />

Confronting history and human limits in <strong>the</strong> deep.<br />

By Ben Stubenberg<br />

You are alone with yourself.<br />

Even your body slips away so that it feels like<br />

a speck <strong>of</strong> consciousness that’s floating in <strong>the</strong> abyss.<br />

—William Truebridge, World Champion Freediver<br />

More than sport, freediving transforms <strong>the</strong> men and women who surrender <strong>the</strong>mselves to <strong>the</strong> sea, leaving<br />

behind <strong>the</strong> realm <strong>of</strong> humans and entering a world where <strong>the</strong>y cannot brea<strong>the</strong>. Descending on a single gulp<br />

<strong>of</strong> air, divers hear only <strong>the</strong> sound <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> beating heart. The light dims. Time stops. For a few minutes, but<br />

what feels like forever, divers glide unte<strong>the</strong>red, vulnerable and free. In a heinous turn <strong>of</strong> historic irony,<br />

however, <strong>the</strong> joyful liberation freediving bestows also prompted ruthless subjugation that wiped out one<br />

people and redefined ano<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 35


From time immemorial, human tribes living along<br />

<strong>the</strong> coast around <strong>the</strong> world trained to dive deep and stay<br />

under as long as possible in <strong>the</strong> quest for survival. The<br />

divers took risks and accepted peril to hunt for sustenance<br />

below <strong>the</strong> surface. Diving’s natural elation led to<br />

an addictive joy, where being in <strong>the</strong> water became more<br />

natural than being on land and in time, a way <strong>of</strong> life. The<br />

<strong>the</strong> best divers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se aquatic communities, <strong>the</strong> ones<br />

who took <strong>the</strong> biggest chances and dodged <strong>the</strong> greatest<br />

dangers, became heroes and even spiritual leaders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

village, looked up to and revered.<br />

Lucayan freedivers<br />

The spectacularly clear turquoise ocean <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (TCI) has produced its own extraordinary<br />

divers, beginning with <strong>the</strong> Lucayan Indians. More than<br />

2,000 years ago, <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors began a long migration<br />

from <strong>the</strong> river deltas <strong>of</strong> South America, island hopping<br />

<strong>the</strong> 1,000 mile Caribbean archipelago until reaching TCI<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. Before ships arrived from across <strong>the</strong><br />

Atlantic, before <strong>the</strong>ir world vanished and <strong>the</strong>y ceased to<br />

exist, Lucayans lived in <strong>the</strong>ir huts <strong>of</strong> thatch and woven<br />

reed next to <strong>the</strong> same beaches where we now sunba<strong>the</strong>,<br />

ga<strong>the</strong>r for a picnic or watch <strong>the</strong> sunset. They too glided<br />

gracefully through <strong>the</strong> translucent sea, diving for dinner<br />

or just for <strong>the</strong> thrill.<br />

Christopher Columbus, who likely made his first<br />

landfall in Grand Turk in 1492 (See “The First Columbus<br />

Landing,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> 2017) and <strong>the</strong> early<br />

Spanish colonists that followed, took note <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Native<br />

Indians’ exceptional natural ability to hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath for<br />

long periods and dive deep. This observation coincided<br />

with <strong>the</strong> discovery <strong>of</strong> vast beds <strong>of</strong> oysters containing<br />

pearls around <strong>the</strong> islands <strong>of</strong> Margarita and Cubagua <strong>of</strong>f<br />

<strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Venezuela. The poor swimming and diving<br />

abilities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Europeans at <strong>the</strong> time, however, precluded<br />

retrieving <strong>the</strong> pearl oysters except in <strong>the</strong> shallowest<br />

waters. Driven by <strong>the</strong> prospect <strong>of</strong> quick riches from an<br />

abundance <strong>of</strong> pearls tantalizingly close but beyond reach,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Spanish in 1500 began to raid TCI and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas<br />

for natives to enslave and exploit as freedivers.<br />

In just 20 years, according to TCI historian H. E.<br />

Sadler, some 40,000 Indians had been taken captive and,<br />

along with disease and outright slaughter, were completely<br />

depopulated from <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. The first European<br />

colonizers rationalized <strong>the</strong>ir abduction and enslavement<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indians by reasoning that as hea<strong>the</strong>ns, not<br />

Christians, <strong>the</strong>y had no souls.<br />

Bartolomé de las Casas, a Spanish priest outraged<br />

at <strong>the</strong> horrific treatment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> native peoples, recorded<br />

<strong>the</strong> astounding brutality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island raids from what<br />

he had learned. “And verily, as a Spaniard told me, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

ships in <strong>the</strong>se regions could voyage without compass or<br />

chart, merely by following from <strong>the</strong> distance between <strong>the</strong><br />

Lucayos <strong>Islands</strong> (TCI) and Hispaniola, which is sixty or<br />

seventy leagues, <strong>the</strong> trace <strong>of</strong> those Indians’ corpses floating<br />

in <strong>the</strong> sea, corpses that had been cast overboard by<br />

earlier ships.”<br />

Upon arrival in <strong>the</strong> dry, low-lying islands <strong>of</strong> Margarita<br />

and Cubagua surrounded by turquoise sea not unlike TCI,<br />

<strong>the</strong> abductors forced <strong>the</strong> surviving Indians to dive down<br />

for <strong>the</strong> pearl oysters for extended periods without rest.<br />

The demands <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong>ten led to internal hemorrhaging<br />

from ascending too quickly and burst eardrums<br />

causing blood to gush from mouth and nose, as well as<br />

being exposed to shark attacks. On occasion, pirates kidnapped<br />

<strong>the</strong> Indian divers for use in <strong>the</strong>ir own pearl diving<br />

operations.<br />

Las Casas again documented <strong>the</strong> atrocities committed<br />

against <strong>the</strong> native pearl divers in searing reports to <strong>the</strong><br />

Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.<br />

“The tyranny exercised by <strong>the</strong> Spaniards against <strong>the</strong><br />

Indians in <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> pearl fishing is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

cruel that can be imagined. The pearl fishers dive into <strong>the</strong><br />

sea at a depth <strong>of</strong> five fathoms, and do this from sunrise<br />

to sunset, and remain for many minutes without breathing,<br />

tearing <strong>the</strong> oysters out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir rocky beds where <strong>the</strong><br />

pearls are formed. They come to <strong>the</strong> surface with a netted<br />

bag <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se oysters where a Spanish torturer is waiting<br />

in a canoe or skiff, and if <strong>the</strong> pearl diver shows signs <strong>of</strong><br />

wanting to rest, he is showered with blows.”<br />

In one generation, <strong>the</strong> Spanish and o<strong>the</strong>r Europeans<br />

had sealed <strong>the</strong> extinction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans by working<br />

<strong>the</strong>m to death. The tragic irony <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayan’s demise<br />

near <strong>the</strong> very waters where <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors had begun<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir journey north for a better life is not lost. And <strong>the</strong><br />

hard shiny spheres that so many Native Indians died for,<br />

<strong>the</strong> pretty little pearls that decorated <strong>the</strong> necks and ears<br />

<strong>of</strong> nobility, were hardly more than <strong>the</strong> product <strong>of</strong> scabs<br />

that protect <strong>the</strong> oyster from tapeworms.<br />

African freedivers<br />

With <strong>the</strong> Indians gone, <strong>the</strong> pearl traders looked for<br />

replacements in <strong>the</strong> budding slave trade in Africa.<br />

European explorers had seen and recorded impressive<br />

feats <strong>of</strong> swimming and diving among <strong>the</strong> Africans since<br />

<strong>the</strong> mid-1400s. As with <strong>the</strong> Native Indians, <strong>the</strong> African<br />

divers had spent years adapting <strong>the</strong>ir minds and bodies<br />

36 www.timespub.tc


A freediver-in-training visits <strong>the</strong> collapsed Thunderdome from <strong>the</strong> French TV game show “Le trésor de Pago Pago” that was filmed at Malcolm’s<br />

Road Beach in Providenciales in <strong>the</strong> early 1990s.<br />

AGILE LEVIN<br />

to apnea (breath holding), oxygen deprivation and water<br />

pressure at great depths through repeated and prolonged<br />

immersion.<br />

According to Dr. Kevin Dawson, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> History<br />

at <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> California, Merced, “Many [African divers]<br />

could dive ninety-plus feet deep. How divers acquired<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir abilities is unclear. But <strong>the</strong> lung capacity and <strong>the</strong><br />

composure required to work at such depths suggest that<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had learned to swim at an early age. When diving,<br />

many held rock weights to help <strong>the</strong>m descend quickly<br />

without expending valuable air.” Although slave traders<br />

did not understand <strong>the</strong> physiological process and<br />

changes, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Dawson notes, <strong>the</strong> traders specifically<br />

targeted ethnic groups <strong>of</strong> Africans for capture in riverine<br />

areas.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> African slave divers arrived in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean,<br />

however, <strong>the</strong> slave masters could not be quite as brutal<br />

as in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Native Indians. The premium cost for<br />

African slave divers required better management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

investment, so divers received more rest time and fewer<br />

beatings. The dependency on slave divers fostered a complex<br />

relationship <strong>of</strong> power and privilege. In one telling<br />

account, slave masters frequently rewarded African slave<br />

divers with a glass <strong>of</strong> wine and a pipe <strong>of</strong> tobacco between<br />

dives. Of course, slaveholders conferred favors to extract<br />

more labor, and in turn more wealth from <strong>the</strong> slave divers.<br />

Historians refer to this as “privileged exploitation”<br />

that gave <strong>the</strong> African slave divers a measure <strong>of</strong> influence<br />

over <strong>the</strong>ir situation that most o<strong>the</strong>r slaves did not have.<br />

In her research <strong>of</strong> enslaved pearl divers <strong>of</strong> 16th<br />

century Caribbean, Dr. Molly A. Warsh, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor at <strong>the</strong><br />

University <strong>of</strong> Pittsburgh, studied <strong>the</strong>ir bargaining power.<br />

She writes, “Although pearl divers performed exceedingly<br />

dangerous work and endured difficult living conditions,<br />

evidence suggests that <strong>the</strong>y none<strong>the</strong>less managed to<br />

exert considerable control over <strong>the</strong>ir own mobility, as well<br />

as a degree <strong>of</strong> control over <strong>the</strong> pearls <strong>the</strong>y were forced<br />

to harvest. The divers frequently kept pearls for <strong>the</strong>mselves,<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r hoarding <strong>the</strong>m or trading <strong>the</strong>m for food<br />

and o<strong>the</strong>r necessities.” In some cases, slave divers were<br />

able to purchase freedom, leveraging <strong>the</strong> very expertise<br />

that prompted <strong>the</strong>ir enslavement, in yet ano<strong>the</strong>r irony, to<br />

secure liberation.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> initial period <strong>of</strong> colonization in <strong>the</strong> first half<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century, Native Indian and African slave divers<br />

generated <strong>the</strong> greatest wealth in <strong>the</strong> Americas, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor<br />

Dawson points out. When <strong>the</strong> Spanish discovered <strong>the</strong><br />

rich silver mines in Bolivia and Mexico in <strong>the</strong> mid-1500s,<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 37


<strong>the</strong> economic focus shifted towards <strong>the</strong> mainland <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Americas. By <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> pearl beds had declined substantially<br />

from over-harvesting, but a new demand for divers<br />

emerged to recover lost cargo from increasing numbers<br />

<strong>of</strong> shipwrecks on <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong>f Florida, <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, and<br />

TCI. In particular, <strong>the</strong> Spanish treasure galleons departing<br />

Havana for Spain laden with gold and silver that wrecked<br />

on <strong>the</strong> reefs created <strong>the</strong> best opportunities for wealth for<br />

salvage wreckers. A few Native Indians had already been<br />

forced into salvage diving, but as <strong>the</strong>y were killed <strong>of</strong>f,<br />

slaveholders called for more African slave divers to do<br />

<strong>the</strong> work. Salvagers would sometimes use diving bells big<br />

enough to fit two men with trapped air to brea<strong>the</strong>. The<br />

bell, suspended from a cable to <strong>the</strong> ship, could be lowered<br />

60 feet (19 meters) below <strong>the</strong> surface. But <strong>the</strong> bell,<br />

just a few feet in diameter, limited <strong>the</strong> range <strong>of</strong> vision, so<br />

salvagers much preferred slave divers who could physically<br />

cover more ocean floor.<br />

When a hurricane sank a Spanish fleet <strong>of</strong> 28 treasure<br />

ships <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys in 1622, <strong>the</strong> salvage manager<br />

in Cuba brought 20 slave divers to locate <strong>the</strong> wrecks. At<br />

first, <strong>the</strong> slave divers recovered only a few bars <strong>of</strong> silver,<br />

but not <strong>the</strong> flagship Santa Margarita. Undoubtably worried<br />

that freelance salvagers and pirates closing in would<br />

find <strong>the</strong> ship first, a Spanish <strong>of</strong>ficial <strong>of</strong>fered emancipation<br />

to any slave diver who could find <strong>the</strong> wreck. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

slave divers did in fact discover <strong>the</strong> ship and was freed on<br />

<strong>the</strong> spot. However, such good fortune rarely befell a slave<br />

diver.<br />

Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most prominent use <strong>of</strong> African slave divers<br />

for salvaging was from <strong>the</strong> 1641 wreck <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nuestra<br />

Señora de la Pura y Limpia Concepción on <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks<br />

located between Grand Turk and <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic.<br />

(See “Whose Treasure,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Summer<br />

<strong>2018</strong>.) William Phips and experienced Bermudian salvagers<br />

organized <strong>the</strong> treasure hunting expeditions, bringing<br />

60 slave divers from Bermuda, Jamaica, and Barbados to<br />

look for <strong>the</strong> wreck. In 1687, <strong>the</strong>y found <strong>the</strong> wreck and<br />

recovered more than 30 tons (15 metric tons) <strong>of</strong> silver<br />

bars, making vast fortunes for Phips and his investors.<br />

African salvage divers, as with pearl divers, fully<br />

understood <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> such diving abilities and leveraged<br />

<strong>the</strong>m to improve working conditions. The divers<br />

also gained a special status in <strong>the</strong> slave communities and<br />

a measure <strong>of</strong> dignity through pride in work not afforded<br />

to field slaves. Though still considered property by slave<br />

owners, <strong>the</strong> African slave divers were able none<strong>the</strong>less<br />

to accumulate earnings from work that created opportunities<br />

for <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong>ir families within <strong>the</strong><br />

constraints <strong>of</strong> bondage.<br />

Salvage diving by slaves, and later freemen after<br />

Great Britain outlawed slavery in 1834, appears to have<br />

continued through <strong>the</strong> first half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19th century in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas and probably TCI. Around this time, local<br />

TCI people formed <strong>the</strong>ir own salvage enterprises to<br />

watch for ships wrecking on <strong>the</strong> surrounding reefs and<br />

recover <strong>the</strong> cargo, possibly using freedivers. Blue Hills on<br />

Providenciales provided a well-known vantage point for<br />

wreckers.<br />

Amazingly, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> divers performed without goggles<br />

or masks, which had yet to be invented. They did<br />

underwater work using only <strong>the</strong>ir naked eyes and may<br />

have developed an ability to “see” underwater. The eye<br />

muscles <strong>of</strong> divers can adapt by constricting <strong>the</strong> pupils<br />

that alter <strong>the</strong> lens shape in turn, thus changing <strong>the</strong> light<br />

refraction for increased visibility. Unfortunately, excessive<br />

exposure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eyes underwater can cause long-term<br />

vision damage when out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Sea nomads and spleens<br />

Putting <strong>the</strong> face in cool water triggers an automatic<br />

response by <strong>the</strong> body called <strong>the</strong> mammalian dive reflex<br />

to lower <strong>the</strong> heart rate and conserve oxygen. Humans<br />

share this reflex with all mammals. Even newborn babies<br />

instinctively know how to hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath when submerged.<br />

During lengthy breath-holding, <strong>the</strong> veins and<br />

arteries in <strong>the</strong> extremities contract to divert more red<br />

blood carrying oxygen to <strong>the</strong> more vital organs—<strong>the</strong><br />

heart, lungs, and brain. Typically, <strong>the</strong> diver feels contractions<br />

in <strong>the</strong> diaphragm, signaling <strong>the</strong>se changes.<br />

As a diver descends deeper, <strong>the</strong> lungs compress to<br />

<strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> fists, but blood continues to rush in. When <strong>the</strong><br />

diver ascends to <strong>the</strong> surface, <strong>the</strong> lungs expand again and<br />

need to be filled with oxygen. The brain detects <strong>the</strong> oxygen<br />

levels dropping and tells <strong>the</strong> spleen, a spongy organ<br />

that recycles red blood cells, to release fresh oxygenated<br />

blood into <strong>the</strong> circulatory system. If <strong>the</strong> oxygen level gets<br />

too low, <strong>the</strong> brain puts <strong>the</strong> body in a sleep mode to save<br />

more energy and what oxygen is left. This can cause <strong>the</strong><br />

diver to black out, usually in <strong>the</strong> last 10 meters (33 feet)<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ascent, and require rescue to bring <strong>the</strong> diver to<br />

<strong>the</strong> surface. Acutely aware, divers train to acclimate and<br />

accept <strong>the</strong> risk as <strong>the</strong> price for a life-changing experience.<br />

Though virtually all humans are capable <strong>of</strong> basic<br />

freediving, a tiny minority <strong>of</strong> humans, it turns out, have<br />

evolved to manage <strong>the</strong> rigors <strong>of</strong> breath-holding for long<br />

periods underwater. In particular, genetic researchers<br />

have found major body differences in <strong>the</strong> Bajau people<br />

38 www.timespub.tc


Hugh final_Layout 1 5/29/17 1:15 PM Page 1<br />

TWATIMES_Layout 1 2/16/17 7:49 AM Page 1<br />

P<br />

E<br />

R<br />

S<br />

HUGH G. O’NEILL<br />

ATTORNEYSN<br />

AT<br />

L AW<br />

P.O. Box 267<br />

Hibernian House<br />

1136 Leeward Highway<br />

Providenciales<br />

Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />

B.W.I.<br />

Tel 649-946-4514<br />

Fax 649-946-4955<br />

Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc<br />

&<br />

C<br />

CO. O<br />

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D<br />

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Serving international & domestic clients in real estate, property development,<br />

mortgages, corporate & commercial matters, immigration, & more.<br />

TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 39


The notable physiological changes among <strong>the</strong> Bajau,<br />

<strong>of</strong> course, raises a compelling question: Did Lucayan and<br />

African slave divers also possess this unique genetic trait<br />

given <strong>the</strong>ir own long history <strong>of</strong> freediving in <strong>the</strong> West<br />

Indies or in Africa? It seems plausible, and some evidence<br />

supports at least body changes in <strong>the</strong> Lucayans.<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman, current director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos National Museum, examined Lucayan skeletons<br />

recovered on <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Eleu<strong>the</strong>ra in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas and<br />

discovered substantial bone growth on <strong>the</strong> stapes, <strong>the</strong><br />

smallest bones in <strong>the</strong> body that are attached to <strong>the</strong> ear<br />

drums. The constant pressure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water while diving<br />

creates stress on ear drums and <strong>the</strong> stapes leading to an<br />

increase in bone mass consistent with frequently deep<br />

divers. While some Lucayans manifested permanent physical<br />

modifications, we do not know if it was genetic.<br />

In any case, Lucayans and African slave divers definitively<br />

shaped <strong>the</strong> early history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Americas following<br />

<strong>the</strong> European arrival with demonstrated superhuman<br />

aquatic abilities derived from <strong>the</strong>ir native cultures.<br />

FAY NINON–WWW.OCEANICALCHEMY.COM<br />

Freediving is undergoing somewhat <strong>of</strong> a renaissance in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, as <strong>the</strong> younger generation discovers skills that helped<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir elders earn a living.<br />

living in small coastal villages <strong>of</strong> Indonesia, sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Philippines and Malaysia that make <strong>the</strong>m truly natural<br />

divers different from <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> us. For more than 1,000<br />

years, <strong>the</strong> Bajau have depended on <strong>the</strong> sea for <strong>the</strong>ir livelihood<br />

and spend most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workday in and under <strong>the</strong><br />

water hunting fish with spear guns. These “Sea Nomads,”<br />

a poor, marginalized ethnic group native to Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

Asia, can hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath and dive to 100 feet using only<br />

wooden masks with a glass plate and sometimes a plank<br />

<strong>of</strong> wood as a fin and hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath for an astounding<br />

10 minutes.<br />

In 2017, Melissa Llardo from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />

Copenhagen measured <strong>the</strong> spleen sizes <strong>of</strong> Bajau and<br />

nearby populations <strong>of</strong> non-Bajau people. Using an ultrasound<br />

machine, she found that all 59 Bajau people she<br />

measured had spleens 50% larger than <strong>the</strong> 43 spleens she<br />

measured <strong>of</strong> non-Bajau people. The larger spleen served<br />

to store more oxygenated red blood cells in Bajau divers<br />

than average divers. In this way, <strong>the</strong> spleen becomes a<br />

biological oxygen tank that allows divers to stay underwater<br />

for much longer periods. Even more astonishing, Ms.<br />

Llardo found that divers as well as non-divers among <strong>the</strong><br />

Bajau people had <strong>the</strong> same 50% larger spleen, indicating<br />

a likely genetic mutation just from being related to <strong>the</strong><br />

Bajau diving communities.<br />

Freediving’s renaissance in TCI<br />

A few fishermen in TCI and o<strong>the</strong>r West Indies islands<br />

retained freediving skills over <strong>the</strong> generations, but this<br />

was <strong>the</strong> exception not <strong>the</strong> norm. The art <strong>of</strong> freediving,<br />

as well as swimming, eroded considerably in <strong>the</strong> region<br />

over <strong>the</strong> past two centuries, even though having survived<br />

in scattered pockets. The reason remains uncertain.<br />

However, <strong>the</strong> freediving prowess first brought from Africa<br />

five centuries ago saw a revival in <strong>the</strong> 1950s and 1960s<br />

when confident, enterprising TCI fishermen strapped on<br />

masks and fins and jumped into <strong>the</strong> water. Until <strong>the</strong>n,<br />

fishermen usually collected sponges using ten foot (three<br />

meter) poles with hooks and glass boxes to see clearly<br />

underwater. When <strong>the</strong> sponge industry collapsed, <strong>the</strong><br />

fishermen applied <strong>the</strong> pole and hook technique to snaring<br />

conch, but <strong>the</strong> practice proved too slow. So, many<br />

local fisherman simply taught <strong>the</strong>mselves to freedive to<br />

collect conch more efficiently and learned to spearfish<br />

with <strong>the</strong>ir make-shift spearguns.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first to switch from collecting sponges<br />

by poles and hooks to freediving and spear fishing was<br />

Jeffrey Handfield from <strong>the</strong> Belmont part <strong>of</strong> Bottle Creek,<br />

North Caicos. Back in <strong>the</strong> day, <strong>the</strong> well-known Handfield,<br />

now 87, would take his boat all over TCI to dive deep for<br />

<strong>the</strong> biggest and best fish. When TCI got its first major<br />

bank, Barclays, in 1981, Handfield and o<strong>the</strong>r fishermen<br />

saw no need to open an account. As Handfield explained,<br />

“I only got two banks, Ambergis Cay Bank and French<br />

40 www.timespub.tc


Cay Bank,” <strong>the</strong>reby summing up <strong>the</strong> local banks that mattered.<br />

Fisherman William “JR” Delancy, ano<strong>the</strong>r self-taught<br />

freediver from Grand Turk, learned <strong>the</strong> skill as a teenager<br />

in <strong>the</strong> early 1960s. He and his friends would blow<br />

up tire tubes with <strong>the</strong>ir mouths and put a net or bag in<br />

<strong>the</strong> center. They floated <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f Front Street to <strong>the</strong> wall<br />

dropping into <strong>the</strong> 7,000-foot trench and speargunned for<br />

fish. After meeting and marrying beloved schoolteacher<br />

Henrietta Gardiner in Bottle Creek in 1966, JR decided to<br />

stay in North Caicos and pass on his freediving skills to<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r island fisherman.<br />

On one <strong>of</strong> his early days on <strong>the</strong> North Caicos barrier<br />

reef, Delancy, along with his friend and fellow<br />

freediver Albert Higgs, dove down deep and speared a<br />

giant Atlantic goliath grouper (also called jewfish). The<br />

goliath grouper, which is known to attack divers as well<br />

as sharks, fought hard and pulled Delancy through <strong>the</strong><br />

water while he held his breath in a classic contest <strong>of</strong> man<br />

against beast. Delancy hung on and refused surrender.<br />

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1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />

Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />

E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />

Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />

Market Street, Grand Turk<br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />

Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />

E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />

South Caicos boat captain Timothy Hamilton (far right) enjoys a drink<br />

with famous freediver Jacques Mayol (at left) in <strong>the</strong> 1970s. Hamilton, a<br />

talented diver, showed Mayol <strong>the</strong> best places to dive in South Caicos.<br />

After a long struggle, <strong>the</strong> huge fish finally gave up, but<br />

weighing around 500 pounds, was too big to put in <strong>the</strong><br />

boat. So <strong>the</strong> fishermen had to tow <strong>the</strong> fish back to Bottle<br />

Creek. (Shades <strong>of</strong> Moby Dick and The Old Man and <strong>the</strong><br />

Sea, but with a happier ending!) Word got out quickly,<br />

and everyone in <strong>the</strong> settlement, including schoolkids let<br />

out early, showed up at <strong>the</strong> dock to witness <strong>the</strong> largest<br />

fish anyone had seen. In <strong>the</strong> festive atmosphere, Delancy<br />

gladly shared pieces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> huge fish with anyone who<br />

wanted some to take home for dinner.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> 1970s and 1980s, world class freedivers<br />

Jacques Mayol from France and later Umberto Pelizzari<br />

from Italy made <strong>the</strong>ir way to <strong>the</strong> warm transparent waters<br />

<strong>of</strong> TCI. Both loved <strong>the</strong> easygoing ambiance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />

john redmond associates ltd.<br />

architects & designers<br />

construction consultants<br />

project management<br />

p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.<br />

tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 41


Freediver Samantha Kildegaard, <strong>of</strong> Free Dive With Me,<br />

practices her graceful craft.<br />

Do you know what you’re supposed to do to meet<br />

a mermaid? You go down to <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea,<br />

where <strong>the</strong> water isn’t even blue anymore, where <strong>the</strong><br />

sky is only a memory, and you float <strong>the</strong>re, in <strong>the</strong><br />

silence. And you stay <strong>the</strong>re, and you decide that you’ll<br />

die for <strong>the</strong>m. Only <strong>the</strong>n do <strong>the</strong>y start coming out. They<br />

come, and <strong>the</strong>y greet you, and <strong>the</strong>y judge <strong>the</strong> love you<br />

have for <strong>the</strong>m. If it’s sincere, if it’s pure, <strong>the</strong>y’ll be<br />

with you, and take you away forever.<br />

—Jacques Mayol, World Champion Freediver<br />

AGILE LEVIN<br />

before resorts and paved roads, when everyone knew<br />

everybody and people had time. For a sport where total<br />

calm forms <strong>the</strong> most critical element, <strong>the</strong> laid-back vibe<br />

<strong>of</strong> TCI suited <strong>the</strong>m perfectly.<br />

These larger than life, yet humble men in <strong>the</strong>ir prime,<br />

gladly shared <strong>the</strong>ir gentle gusto, making many friends.<br />

Pushing <strong>the</strong>mselves to <strong>the</strong> limits <strong>of</strong> human endurance,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y daily straddled <strong>the</strong> divide between life and death.<br />

Confronting <strong>the</strong> extremes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> deep gave <strong>the</strong>m a sense<br />

<strong>of</strong> supreme humility. From time to time, Mayol and<br />

Pelizzari hitched rides on scuba boats going out to <strong>the</strong><br />

walls. On such occasions, <strong>the</strong> daring divers would lower<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves over <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and surprise <strong>the</strong><br />

scuba divers by descending far deeper without a tank.<br />

Undulating through <strong>the</strong> blue in <strong>the</strong>ir long fins alongside<br />

rays and sharks, <strong>the</strong>y departed <strong>the</strong> world above, and<br />

became creatures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Mayol had already been <strong>the</strong> first human to break 100<br />

meters (330 feet) in 1976 at <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> 49 in <strong>the</strong> “No<br />

Limits” discipline, as well as o<strong>the</strong>r world records. In No<br />

Limits freediving, <strong>the</strong> diver holds on or attaches to a ballast<br />

weight, known as a sled, connected to a cable. The<br />

diver controls <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> descent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> weight pulling<br />

him down, but tries to go as fast as he can “clear” <strong>the</strong><br />

ears in response to <strong>the</strong> change in pressure, typically 3–4<br />

meters (10–13 feet) per second. The idea is to go as deep<br />

as possible on a breath <strong>of</strong> air and <strong>the</strong>n use a balloon<br />

or o<strong>the</strong>r inflatable device to return to <strong>the</strong> surface before<br />

42 www.timespub.tc


unning out <strong>of</strong> oxygen. Freedivers consider No Limits to<br />

be <strong>the</strong> most extreme <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eight categories <strong>of</strong> freediving<br />

and <strong>the</strong> most dangerous.<br />

Mayol liked TCI so much that he bought a house on<br />

South Caicos in <strong>the</strong> 1970s and became great friends and<br />

dive buddies with South Caicos mariner and boat captain<br />

Timothy Hamilton. Hamilton, already a self-taught and<br />

quite adept freediver, took Mayol out to Ambergis Cay,<br />

Fish Cay and Long Cay for deep, clearwater challenges,<br />

<strong>of</strong>ten encountering dolphins along <strong>the</strong> way. “Before<br />

descending,” Hamilton related, “Jackie would start meditating,<br />

like he was praying, and be completely at peace.”<br />

Hamilton and his wife Vonn regularly invited Mayol over<br />

for dinner, sometimes with his freediving friends who<br />

came from all over <strong>the</strong> world to share <strong>the</strong> diving and tranquility<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Mayol would break ano<strong>the</strong>r No Limits world record at<br />

age 59 by descending 105 meters (346 feet) and would<br />

go on to co-produce a film on his life, “Le Grand Bleu (The<br />

Big Blue)” in 1988, and write a book, Homo Delphinus:<br />

The Dolphin Within Man, published in 2000.<br />

When Pelizzari arrived in Provo in <strong>the</strong> 1980s, he<br />

had yet to begin his streak <strong>of</strong> breaking world records.<br />

He became good friends with Dean Bernal, who <strong>of</strong>fered<br />

to introduce him to Jo Jo, <strong>the</strong> human-friendly dolphin <strong>of</strong><br />

Grace Bay. Both men motored into Grace Bay on Bernal’s<br />

boat, and when <strong>the</strong>y arrived out in <strong>the</strong> deep, Dean used<br />

a special signal to “call” Jo Jo. At first, <strong>the</strong> dolphin wasn’t<br />

interested in Pelizzari, but Bernal told him to be patient<br />

and just ignore him while doing his training dives. Soon<br />

enough, Jo Jo warmed up, and <strong>the</strong> two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m dived<br />

down deep toge<strong>the</strong>r, becoming fast friends. Jo Jo became<br />

very protective <strong>of</strong> Pelizzari, frequently shunting away<br />

barracudas, sharks and turtles with his nostrum (nose),<br />

possibly out <strong>of</strong> jealousy too. Afterwards, Jo Jo would look<br />

at Pelizzari through his mask, smiling with satisfaction<br />

and pride.<br />

Bernal had warned Pelizzari never to feed Jo Jo so <strong>the</strong><br />

relationship could remain purely one <strong>of</strong> friendship. But a<br />

few days before leaving TCI, Pelizzari broke <strong>the</strong> rule and<br />

cracked open a lobster he had found and gave it to Jo Jo<br />

as thanks for <strong>the</strong> wonderful experiences. Jo Jo happily ate<br />

<strong>the</strong> lobster and <strong>the</strong>n nudged Pelizzari to follow him far<br />

down to a cave bristling with lobsters, apparently in hopes<br />

that his human friend could pull out more for him. Jo Jo<br />

sensed Pelizzari’s imminent departure, and on <strong>the</strong> last<br />

dive, kept pushing Pelizzari away from <strong>the</strong> boat in hopes<br />

<strong>of</strong> keeping him <strong>the</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> sea, an intense affection that<br />

filled <strong>the</strong> great freediver with “indescribable happiness.”<br />

35Years<br />

Assisting domestic and international clients for 35 years<br />

Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848<br />

Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 43


JUSTIN OKOYE–WWW.OCEANICALCHEMY.COM<br />

Freediving is all about exploring <strong>the</strong> TCI’s magnificent underwater<br />

scenery on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air, without using scuba tanks.<br />

In 2002, Tanya Streeter from <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong><br />

came to Providenciales to attempt a new “No Limits”<br />

world record. (See “Free <strong>Fall</strong>ing,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Winter 2002/03.) Streeter had already broken nine world<br />

records in different freediving disciplines. Supported by<br />

Big Blue and o<strong>the</strong>r safety divers, Streeter brought herself<br />

into a relaxed state <strong>of</strong> mind and gulped in as much air<br />

as her lungs could hold before letting <strong>the</strong> sled pull her<br />

into <strong>the</strong> abyss just beyond <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay. As her<br />

heart rate slowed to just 10 beats per minute, she defied<br />

all her male and female rivals and went down to a new<br />

world record <strong>of</strong> 160 meters (525 feet). [The current No<br />

Limits record is 253.2 meters (830.8 feet) set in 2012 by<br />

Austrian diver Herbert Nitsch.]<br />

Streeter returned to TCI <strong>the</strong> following year and broke<br />

<strong>the</strong> world record for men and women in <strong>the</strong> “Variable<br />

Weight” discipline, diving to 400 feet (122 meters). In this<br />

category, divers descend on a sled, but must return to<br />

<strong>the</strong> surface under <strong>the</strong>ir own power. She also broke <strong>the</strong><br />

world record for Constant Weight No Fins, <strong>the</strong> most difficult<br />

discipline done without aids, only muscle power,<br />

descending to 115 feet (35 meters). Streeter dispels <strong>the</strong><br />

death-defying image <strong>of</strong> freediving saying, “People who<br />

think that freediving is life-threatening misunderstand<br />

<strong>the</strong> sport. It’s entirely life-affirming.”<br />

Philip Shearer and Mark Parrish, excellent freedivers<br />

in <strong>the</strong>ir own right, started Big Blue (named after Mayol’s<br />

movie “The Big Blue”) in 1997 as an eco-friendly watersports<br />

operation that embraced <strong>the</strong> purity <strong>of</strong> freediving.<br />

They taught snorkeling guests <strong>the</strong> basic techniques <strong>of</strong><br />

freediving, such as how to relax and descend easily from<br />

<strong>the</strong> surface, so <strong>the</strong>y could enjoy <strong>the</strong> reef up close, as well<br />

as those magical encounters with dolphins and whales.<br />

On Big Blue’s staff, Captain Brent Forbes from North<br />

Caicos has become an outstanding freediver as well, and<br />

true heir <strong>of</strong> TCI’s freediving revival more than a half century<br />

ago.<br />

TCI has its own pr<strong>of</strong>essional freediver, Samantha<br />

Kildegaard, who is committed to teach as many people<br />

as possible in <strong>the</strong> TCI community, as well as visitors, <strong>the</strong><br />

joy <strong>of</strong> diving down on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air. “TCI is easily<br />

one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top places on <strong>the</strong> planet for freediving with<br />

exceptional water visibility, depth and marine life,” says<br />

<strong>the</strong> Argentinian-born Kildegaard, with a passion for protecting<br />

<strong>the</strong> ocean. “When I am down <strong>the</strong>re, I am at peace.<br />

I am nobody and everybody at <strong>the</strong> same time, so much so<br />

that I want to stay in <strong>the</strong> sea forever.” Kildegaard teaches<br />

all levels <strong>of</strong> freediving and organizes freedive camps to<br />

encounter whales during <strong>the</strong> season.<br />

Almost anyone at any age can learn to freedive, dispelling<br />

<strong>the</strong> notion <strong>of</strong> an extreme, exotic sport meant for<br />

an exceptional few. A diver needs only to mentally prepare,<br />

equalize pressure in <strong>the</strong> ears and pack air into <strong>the</strong><br />

lungs to sever <strong>the</strong> bonds <strong>of</strong> our terrestrial home and float<br />

freely through an oceanic cosmos.<br />

The paradox <strong>of</strong> freedivers once sold into slavery and<br />

exploited for ephemeral riches, however, should give<br />

us pause. They, too, felt <strong>the</strong> euphoria <strong>of</strong> relinquishing<br />

earthly shackles for freedom in <strong>the</strong> sea. For today’s divers<br />

who find serenity below <strong>the</strong> surface, and for anyone who<br />

cares, <strong>the</strong> liberty denied to those divers long ago should<br />

serve to remind that tranquility in <strong>the</strong> deep extends<br />

beyond <strong>the</strong> self, even through <strong>the</strong> ages. a<br />

Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for TCI history. An avid ocean man,<br />

he is co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports/adventure tour company<br />

Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-<br />

Seaswim. Ben can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.<br />

44 www.timespub.tc


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<strong>the</strong> sporting life<br />

Fishing has always been a way <strong>of</strong> life in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, especially on <strong>the</strong> “Big South.” Thanks to an exciting new business venture<br />

<strong>the</strong>re, you can now fish from a specially outfitted kayak.<br />

Gone Fishin’!<br />

This new South Caicos venture combines kayaking and fishing.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are, admittedly, all about <strong>the</strong> water, and it is <strong>of</strong>ten said that you need to be<br />

ei<strong>the</strong>r “on it, or looking at it” in order to live here year-round.<br />

Traditionally, our amazing ocean has been <strong>the</strong> mainstay <strong>of</strong> basic survival for generations <strong>of</strong> Islanders,<br />

and while some commercial fishing still takes place, <strong>the</strong> majority is now sport fishing and recreation.<br />

The type <strong>of</strong> fishing on <strong>of</strong>fer varies, from bottom fishing and bonefishing through to big game fishing.<br />

However, in most cases <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> a boat is paramount and that can add a lot to <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> an exciting<br />

day out on <strong>the</strong> water.<br />

Story & Photos By TCI Explorer John Galleymore<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 47


So it was <strong>of</strong> great interest when I was told about a<br />

new fishing company starting in South Caicos that <strong>of</strong>fers<br />

nearly all types <strong>of</strong> fishing—not from a boat, but from<br />

individual kayaks. The claim was that it was possible to<br />

bottom-fish over coral heads for snapper or head out to<br />

“The Wall” and fish for mahi mahi and tuna!<br />

This I not only had to see, but experience myself, so<br />

plans were made and flights were booked, and just a few<br />

days later I was en-route to <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.<br />

After a 25-minute flight I touched down on <strong>the</strong> “Big South”<br />

and was met by Darik Riggs, along with his business partners<br />

Mike and Debbie Edwards. We set <strong>of</strong>f for <strong>the</strong> East Bay<br />

Resort, which was to be my base for <strong>the</strong> next few days. I<br />

was eager to hear more about this intriguing venture.<br />

Over a cold beer, I had to ask Darik <strong>the</strong> obvious question<br />

that had been bugging me since I left Providenciales:<br />

“How in <strong>the</strong> world do I paddle a kayak and hold a rod and<br />

fish all at <strong>the</strong> same time?” With a knowing smile, Darik<br />

informs me that <strong>the</strong>re are no paddles! The kayaks use<br />

a new form <strong>of</strong> technology called <strong>the</strong> MIRAGE system.<br />

Patented by Hobie and based on <strong>the</strong> natural wing motions<br />

<strong>of</strong> a swimming penguin, it is ultra-efficient and with a<br />

few simple leg strokes you can propel through <strong>the</strong> water<br />

totally hands free.<br />

I’m keen to see more, so we set <strong>of</strong>f into town where<br />

we find a local contractor busy working on what will be<br />

<strong>the</strong> shop/<strong>of</strong>fice <strong>of</strong> Blue Waters Kayak Fishing. It’s here<br />

that as I chat with Mike and Debbie, I get my first sense<br />

<strong>of</strong> what this operation is really about—much more than<br />

The MIRAGE Paddle system<br />

features two rubber fins that<br />

are pedaled like a bike, leaving<br />

your hands free to fish.<br />

just catching fish and making money. They have both<br />

visited <strong>the</strong> TCI numerous times from <strong>the</strong>ir home in Cocoa<br />

Beach, Florida and like so many folks before <strong>the</strong>m, fell in<br />

love with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> people. This was taken to a<br />

new level when <strong>the</strong>y felt <strong>the</strong>y would like to contribute to<br />

<strong>the</strong> South Caicos community, helping whoever <strong>the</strong>y could<br />

along <strong>the</strong> way. Fate led <strong>the</strong>m to meet like-minded Darik,<br />

a ten-year TCI resident whose connections to South go<br />

way back. In fact, <strong>the</strong> old house that’s being converted<br />

into <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice belongs to his wife and her family, and it’s<br />

great to see it getting a new lease on life.<br />

Given Darik’s passion for fishing and <strong>the</strong> Edwards’s<br />

love <strong>of</strong> South Caicos, a plan was made to form Blue<br />

Waters Kayak Fishing, with <strong>the</strong> mutual understanding<br />

that it would benefit <strong>the</strong> community wherever possible.<br />

For instance, ra<strong>the</strong>r than source workers from <strong>the</strong> huge<br />

Sailrock development nearby, for <strong>the</strong> crew currently working<br />

on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> Darik chooses to use local guys who are<br />

good with <strong>the</strong>ir hands and keen to work hard. He knows<br />

<strong>the</strong>m all, and <strong>the</strong>ir families, personally.<br />

The group is getting sorted out to start kayak fishing on <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

tip <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.<br />

48 www.timespub.tc


Ferry <strong>Fall</strong> 17_Layout 1 8/22/17 12:52 PM Page 1<br />

The next morning, we set <strong>of</strong>f for <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn tip<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island where we find <strong>the</strong> team has delivered <strong>the</strong><br />

kayaks and is awaiting our arrival. I now see <strong>the</strong> MIRAGE<br />

Paddle system up close—it’s basically two rubber fins<br />

that drop down through a hole in <strong>the</strong> hull and are pedaled<br />

like a bike. I’m still doubtful it will get me moving.<br />

Our guide Keyton sets us up with bait, fishing rods<br />

and each kayak has a cooler stocked with cold drinks.<br />

Keyton is a charming 28 year-old South Caicos guy, and<br />

once again I see this new company using <strong>the</strong> community<br />

as its basis for future success. With a simple shove <strong>of</strong>f<br />

<strong>the</strong> bank and a few pedal strokes I’m effortlessly cruising<br />

along. I’m amazed at <strong>the</strong> ease and <strong>the</strong> speed with which<br />

I can travel.<br />

Our group consists <strong>of</strong> me, Keyton and Mike, each in<br />

individual kayaks, and Darik in a two-person craft that he<br />

is sharing with his eight year-old son Auren, who seems<br />

more intent on fishing than paddling. However, Darik<br />

seems content to do <strong>the</strong> leg work and I realize this is a<br />

great trip for everyone to enjoy, from pr<strong>of</strong>essional fishermen<br />

to families.<br />

We head out into <strong>the</strong> calm waters and Keyton sets our<br />

hooks with bait. We can easily pedal-paddle a good speed<br />

while effortlessly casting and fishing. Darik calls to head<br />

through <strong>the</strong> channel and into <strong>the</strong> open ocean. I can see<br />

some swells and surf but am reassured that <strong>the</strong> craft are<br />

so stable you can stand up and fish from <strong>the</strong>m. This turns<br />

out to be true, as <strong>the</strong> swell, surf and even wake from a<br />

passing boat have no effect on <strong>the</strong> kayak’s stability.<br />

I soon hook what I think to be a big grouper, but after<br />

a ten minute fight it breaks free. We continue to get bites<br />

all morning but <strong>the</strong> actual fish in <strong>the</strong> boat remain elusive.<br />

We head to a deserted cay, easily reached as <strong>the</strong> kayaks<br />

love shallow water, and relax on <strong>the</strong> beach for a while. On<br />

our return, Mike spots a sand bar and decides to fly-fish.<br />

Again, <strong>the</strong> kayak’s stability makes it easy to get in and<br />

out <strong>of</strong>, so this is a bonefishing dream.<br />

After lunch back at <strong>the</strong> resort, we plan our afternoon<br />

excursion. The team has relocated <strong>the</strong> kayaks to <strong>the</strong><br />

marina and we set <strong>of</strong>f for a snorkeling adventure. It’s an<br />

easy paddle out to <strong>the</strong> reef, just in front <strong>of</strong> stunning Long<br />

Cay. We tie up to <strong>the</strong> marker buoy, kit ourselves with<br />

masks and snorkels and in we go.<br />

The reef is in surprisingly good condition, considering<br />

last year’s double hurricanes that came through<br />

South Caicos so catastrophically. In no time at all we are<br />

surrounded by hundreds <strong>of</strong> reef fish and spot massive<br />

rays resting on <strong>the</strong> sea floor. We snorkel for a while with<br />

a turtle for company, <strong>the</strong>n easily climb back aboard our<br />

* *<br />

Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st<br />

*<br />

Resumes Nov 1st<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 49


Two-person pedal kayaks are ideal for family adventures!<br />

Below right: Is Darik Riggs’s catch bigger than <strong>the</strong> boat?<br />

kayaks. We head towards an area rich in s<strong>of</strong>t corals and<br />

huge sea fans. I decide to film with my GoPro and ask<br />

Keyton if he can tow me behind his kayak. It’s a great<br />

way to see large areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean topography, but boats<br />

tend to be too fast and your mask <strong>of</strong>ten gets pushed <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

The kayaks are perfect for this—it feels like you’re flying<br />

along above <strong>the</strong> seabed with no effort at all, and <strong>the</strong> person<br />

paddling does not feel any extra strain.<br />

We reconvene back at <strong>the</strong> hotel for drinks and dinner,<br />

and to discuss our day and <strong>the</strong> future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business.<br />

Darik tells me <strong>of</strong> plans for <strong>the</strong> store in town. Not only will<br />

it be a base for <strong>the</strong> fishing operation, but eventually he<br />

plans to open a small fish grill restaurant where clients<br />

can taste <strong>the</strong>ir catch and local townspeople can meet, eat<br />

and have a cold beer. He’s keen to point out that this eatery<br />

will complement—not compete with—those already<br />

operating. There are also plans to extend <strong>the</strong> fleet <strong>of</strong> kayaks<br />

and adorn each with a Bible verse. Darik’s choice?<br />

James 1:5 “If any <strong>of</strong> you lacks wisdom, you should ask<br />

God, who gives generously to all without finding fault,<br />

and it will be given to you.”<br />

It’s <strong>the</strong> team’s plan to mentor and train Keyton, as<br />

<strong>the</strong>y see his huge potential to be a great guide and asset<br />

to <strong>the</strong> business. Once again, I think how easily an experienced<br />

fisherman/guide could have been outsourced, but<br />

this team wants to start at grassroots and grow toge<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

a refreshing attitude that will surely benefit all involved.<br />

We discuss <strong>the</strong> fishing currently on <strong>of</strong>fer in<br />

Providenciales, and agree that whe<strong>the</strong>r it’s bonefishing,<br />

reef fishing or <strong>the</strong> hunt for big game, <strong>the</strong> cost is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />

prohibitive. It’s obvious that a small group <strong>of</strong> guys or<br />

a family with children could fly to South Caicos on <strong>the</strong><br />

morning Caicos Express flight, have a great day fishing<br />

and snorkeling, and be back on Provo for sunset drinks<br />

for less than <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> an average day’s fishing on<br />

Provo! (Factor in a great deal that Darik can get you at<br />

<strong>the</strong> East Bay Resort and you can enjoy a night on South<br />

Caicos too.)<br />

I reluctantly board my return flight to Providenciales<br />

and wish <strong>the</strong> team farewell. It’s been a great few days<br />

and I vow to return in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> when <strong>the</strong> operation will be<br />

fully up and running. I not only want to see <strong>the</strong> team in<br />

action again but I’m excited for <strong>the</strong> new fishing store in<br />

town. Oh, and I want to reintroduce myself to that elusive<br />

grouper . . . a<br />

For more information or to book a trip, call (649) 232-<br />

7475 or visit bluewaterskayakfishing.com or email<br />

darik@bluewaterskayakfishing.com.<br />

50 www.timespub.tc


Into <strong>the</strong> unknown to save history:<br />

Turks & Caicos Heritage Foundation<br />

Make no mistake, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are<br />

booming. There are more development, more homes<br />

and ever-increasing numbers <strong>of</strong> visitors each year.<br />

This is great news for <strong>the</strong> economy and <strong>the</strong> jobs<br />

and prosperity that goes along with it, but <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />

flip-side to all this progression. We stand to lose sites<br />

and artifacts <strong>of</strong> massive cultural and historical significance.<br />

These sites, <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re are dozens scattered<br />

around <strong>the</strong> TCI, must be investigated and recorded in<br />

order to preserve <strong>the</strong> history and, in many cases, <strong>the</strong><br />

physical artifacts for future generations.<br />

Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCHF founders (from left Daniel LeVin, John Galleymore<br />

and Jon Ward) set <strong>of</strong>f to East Caicos with local guide Tim Hamilton.<br />

TCHF Founder John Galleymore holds a 1700s bottle found on a<br />

long-abandoned plantation site.<br />

With that in mind, a small group <strong>of</strong> volunteers<br />

recently launched <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Heritage<br />

Foundation (TCHF). The idea is to work alongside <strong>the</strong><br />

TCI’s National Museum, National Trust, Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Environment & Coastal Resources and <strong>the</strong> like as <strong>the</strong><br />

“foot soldiers” who will venture to far-<strong>of</strong>f cays or trek<br />

deep into <strong>the</strong> bush to seek out, record and report back<br />

about what is still <strong>the</strong>re to be discovered. Then, a decision<br />

can be reached as to how best preserve, record or<br />

recover what has been found.<br />

Often, groups such as <strong>the</strong> TCI National Museum<br />

and National Trust are working with restricted budgets<br />

and manpower and do not have <strong>the</strong> resources or <strong>the</strong><br />

time to mount expeditions to carry out preliminary<br />

research in <strong>the</strong> field.<br />

TCHF hopes to fill that gap.<br />

The team consists <strong>of</strong> long-term residents who have<br />

vast experience with expeditions to some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />

remote places in <strong>the</strong> TCI. They all have specialist skills<br />

such as navigation, photography and cave diving, and<br />

all are pr<strong>of</strong>icient with outdoor living and survival. They<br />

also have access to a number <strong>of</strong> historical documents<br />

and maps to seek out long-forgotten places <strong>of</strong> interest.<br />

The plan is to mount regular expeditions ranging<br />

from a single day to a week, that will cover nearly<br />

every land mass in <strong>the</strong> TCI, as well as numerous ocean<br />

and water sites (including flooded caves) that have <strong>the</strong><br />

potential <strong>of</strong> historical substance. Stunning ruins, not<br />

seen by many, litter <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and must be rediscovered<br />

in order to be preserved.<br />

It’s a positive future ahead for <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>, but we mustn’t lose sight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past. a<br />

Stunning ruins, not seen by many, litter <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and must be<br />

re-discovered in order to be preserved.<br />

Q & A with TCHF founder John Galleymore<br />

Q: How long have you been interested in seeking out<br />

<strong>the</strong> past?<br />

A: My first job was developing West Caicos and I<br />

fell in love with Yankee Town. Luckily <strong>the</strong> contractor<br />

(Projetech) was sympa<strong>the</strong>tic to its survival, which<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 51


shows that progress and <strong>the</strong> past can go hand-in-hand<br />

if handled correctly.<br />

Q: What’s <strong>the</strong> most interesting thing you have found<br />

so far?<br />

A: We have found everything from huge ruins on East<br />

Caicos, intact bottles from <strong>the</strong> 1700s rolling around on<br />

<strong>the</strong> seabed, to tiny buttons made <strong>of</strong> porcelain left from<br />

both <strong>the</strong> Loyalist and Lucayan eras.<br />

Q: What do you do with <strong>the</strong> items you find?<br />

A: At present we have no authority to remove anything<br />

from any site. With anything <strong>of</strong> interest found, we photograph<br />

it in-situ, record details and GPS its location.<br />

Only if something was in imminent danger <strong>of</strong> being<br />

lost forever would we consider moving it.<br />

Q: What areas have you covered so far?<br />

A: We have explored most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> small cays as well as<br />

much <strong>of</strong> North, Middle and East Caicos. However, <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are still thousands <strong>of</strong> acres left—much <strong>of</strong> which has<br />

not been explored for hundreds <strong>of</strong> years.<br />

Q: What’s been <strong>the</strong> hardest expedition to date?<br />

A: We had to carry full scuba gear and tanks into <strong>the</strong><br />

heart <strong>of</strong> East Caicos (through some five miles <strong>of</strong> very<br />

thick bush) in order to explore a huge pond.<br />

Q: How would you like <strong>the</strong> TCHF to develop?<br />

A: Ideally, we will be able to present our expedition<br />

findings to <strong>the</strong> TCI Government, <strong>the</strong> Museum, <strong>the</strong><br />

National Trust and similar groups. But most importantly<br />

is to reach out to <strong>the</strong> schools and <strong>the</strong> next generation<br />

<strong>of</strong> Islanders. We hope <strong>the</strong>re are a few would-be explorers<br />

in that generation too! a<br />

The mission <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos Heritage<br />

Foundation (TCHF) is to actively seek out and rediscover<br />

(by means <strong>of</strong> land and ocean exploration)<br />

locations and artifacts predominantly linked to <strong>the</strong><br />

history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. In doing so, we seek to preserve<br />

<strong>the</strong>m (ei<strong>the</strong>r in-situ or on public display) for future<br />

generations. TCHF is a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization with all<br />

donations going toward funding research expeditions<br />

in <strong>the</strong> TCI. If you would like to donate, find out more<br />

information or help, please contact John Galleymore<br />

at (649) 232-7083 or email beyondtci@gmail.com or<br />

https://www.facebook.com/tcihistory/inbox/.<br />

This perimeter wall was built during <strong>the</strong> Loyalist cotton plantation era and is found<br />

across an inland lake near Drum Point, East Caicos.<br />

52 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe<br />

newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />

tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />

MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />

This recent photo shows <strong>the</strong> new shutters added to <strong>the</strong> Donald Keith Science Building as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Museum’s rebuilding efforts<br />

following last year’s destruction by Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />

Starting Over, Again?<br />

By Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Museum Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Winter 2017/18 Astrolabe, Dr. Donald Keith used <strong>the</strong> title “Starting Over” to describe <strong>the</strong> 2017<br />

hurricane season and <strong>the</strong> steps <strong>the</strong> museum was taking to ensure <strong>the</strong> protection and preservation <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> cultural heritage entrusted to us. In this my first edition as editor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe, I thought it was<br />

a great title that should be repeated.<br />

I want to thank Dr. Keith for his long service as editor <strong>of</strong> this newsletter and to assure our readers<br />

that I will continue <strong>the</strong> tradition <strong>of</strong> providing high quality articles about <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos’ fascinating<br />

historical and cultural past for your enjoyment.<br />

In a sense, <strong>the</strong> National Museum is starting over again. The museum on Grand Turk is being restored<br />

and rebuilt, stronger than ever. New partnerships are being formed with <strong>the</strong> Community College, local<br />

businesses and residents. Plans for a new museum and facility in Providenciales will be revealed soon.<br />

Exciting, new heritage-based research projects are being conducted throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. You can look<br />

forward to reading more about <strong>the</strong>se programs in future editions <strong>of</strong> Astrolabe.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> following pages, “Casualties <strong>of</strong> War” looks at impacts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American Revolution on <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas and Turks & Caicos through <strong>the</strong> migration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Loyalists. You will also learn about <strong>the</strong> efforts<br />

to digitize historic records housed by <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum and <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

establishment <strong>of</strong> a National Archives. a<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 53


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

WIKIMEDIA COMMONS<br />

This monument in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada is dedicated to <strong>the</strong> United Empire Loyalists. “Nei<strong>the</strong>r confiscation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir property, <strong>the</strong> pitiless<br />

persecution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir kinsmen in revolt, nor <strong>the</strong> galling chains <strong>of</strong> imprisonment could break <strong>the</strong>ir spirits, or divorce <strong>the</strong>m from a loyalty almost<br />

without parallel.”<br />

Casualties <strong>of</strong> War<br />

The Loyalists’ impact on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />

Casualties <strong>of</strong> war usually are counted as members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> military. In <strong>the</strong> War for American Independence,<br />

<strong>the</strong> casualty count included civilians that did not agree with <strong>the</strong> Revolution.<br />

The Revolution was a minority movement. One-third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population at <strong>the</strong> time were neutral, more<br />

than one-third were rebellious and probably fewer than one-third remained loyal to Great Britain, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r Country. These were <strong>the</strong> Loyalists. Just as refugees today are fleeing protracted wars in <strong>the</strong> Middle<br />

East and seeking asylum elsewhere, <strong>the</strong> Loyalist exodus had pr<strong>of</strong>ound, lasting effects on Canada, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas and o<strong>the</strong>r islands in <strong>the</strong> West Indies, including <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />

54 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Choosing sides<br />

Historians estimate that 80,000 supporters <strong>of</strong> British rule<br />

were driven out or fled from <strong>the</strong> Thirteen Colonies during<br />

and after <strong>the</strong> War <strong>of</strong> Independence. Many Loyalists were<br />

subjected to brutal and humiliating treatment such as tarring<br />

and fea<strong>the</strong>ring and riding astride rails. O<strong>the</strong>rs were<br />

imprisoned and some were hanged. Their property was<br />

taken and <strong>the</strong>y were sent into exile. Although <strong>the</strong> Peace<br />

Treaty <strong>of</strong> 1783 that ended <strong>the</strong> war stated that confiscated<br />

Loyalist property was to be restored, it did not happen.<br />

Georgia was <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original Thirteen Colonies<br />

to be established. Unlike <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn colonies founded<br />

more than a century earlier, allegiance to Britain was<br />

strong in Georgia where <strong>the</strong> inhabitants were quite<br />

dependent on <strong>the</strong> Crown for frontier protection. Many<br />

were relatively new immigrants or first- or second-generation<br />

settlers. Their reluctance to join <strong>the</strong> Revolution is<br />

understandable, as was <strong>the</strong> dread <strong>of</strong> what it might bring.<br />

James Habersham, a prominent Georgian, wrote to a<br />

friend in London in 1775 accurately predicting <strong>the</strong> state<br />

<strong>of</strong> affairs yet to come to Georgia. He wrote:<br />

“I would not choose to live here any longer than we<br />

are in a state <strong>of</strong> proper subordination and under <strong>the</strong><br />

protection <strong>of</strong> Great Britain. However, I do wish that a permanent<br />

line <strong>of</strong> government was drawn and pursued by<br />

<strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r and her children . . . o<strong>the</strong>rwise I cannot think<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event but with horror and grief.<br />

Fa<strong>the</strong>r against son, and son against fa<strong>the</strong>r, and <strong>the</strong><br />

nearest relations and friends combating with each o<strong>the</strong>r!<br />

I may say <strong>the</strong> truth, cutting each o<strong>the</strong>r’s throats.”<br />

Habersham left Georgia shortly after writing <strong>the</strong> letter.<br />

His three sons became active in <strong>the</strong> Revolutionary cause.<br />

It is difficult to determine <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> Loyalist refugees<br />

that left Georgia. At war’s end, American General<br />

Anthony Wayne estimated 6,000 were waiting for transportation<br />

to Canada and o<strong>the</strong>r territories promised by <strong>the</strong><br />

British. When concern heightened about <strong>the</strong> large number<br />

<strong>of</strong> Loyalists moving to Canada it was recommended that<br />

lands in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas be <strong>of</strong>fered to <strong>the</strong> Loyalists because<br />

<strong>the</strong> climate <strong>the</strong>re was more similar to that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

colonies. Lieutenant John Wilson, acting engineer, was<br />

ordered to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas (including <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>)<br />

Among <strong>the</strong> mistreatment <strong>of</strong> Loyalists was <strong>the</strong> indignity <strong>of</strong> being “run out <strong>of</strong> town” on a rail.<br />

ALMAY STOCK PHOTO<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 55


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

to perform a general survey. He verified <strong>the</strong> availability<br />

<strong>of</strong> lands and <strong>the</strong> capability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil for extensive<br />

agricultural development. Between 1783 and 1785 <strong>the</strong><br />

population was increased in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> by 6,000 to 7,000<br />

inhabitants <strong>of</strong> both races (one-fourth being slaves). Most<br />

came from North and South Carolina and Georgia. A subsequent<br />

royal proclamation stated intentions to purchase<br />

lands in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas from <strong>the</strong> proprietors and gave<br />

instruction on how to issue those lands.<br />

Whi<strong>the</strong>r goest thou?<br />

A study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Alexander Wylly family illustrates <strong>the</strong> tragedies<br />

<strong>of</strong> war. Alexander, with his bro<strong>the</strong>r Richard and<br />

sister Hester, emigrated from Ireland to Georgia in 1750,<br />

only 18 years after it was founded. Alexander, a planter,<br />

served as Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House for several years. He and<br />

Susanna Crook, his wife, had three children: Alexander<br />

Campbell, William and Susanna. When war broke out<br />

Alexander was a moderate and lost his position as<br />

Speaker. Soon, he took a strong stand for <strong>the</strong> Crown,<br />

but bro<strong>the</strong>r Richard, a lawyer, joined <strong>the</strong> Patriots. Both <strong>of</strong><br />

Alexander’s sons were students at Oxford, England when<br />

<strong>the</strong> war started. They returned to Georgia to become captains<br />

in Thomas Brown’s King’s Rangers, asserting <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

undaunted loyalty to <strong>the</strong> British. The family, thus divided<br />

by <strong>the</strong> war, would never reunite. Alexander moved to East<br />

Florida and died soon after.<br />

Alexander’s widow, Susanna Crook Wylly, her daughter<br />

and sons joined <strong>the</strong> Loyalist exodus from Georgia and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Carolinas to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. This Loyalist ‘invasion” <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas inevitably led to political and social clashes<br />

with <strong>the</strong> long-established “old” British residents <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

Typical <strong>of</strong> most refugees, <strong>the</strong>y tended to settle in groups<br />

with common economic, family and geographic ties to<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir past. A missionary observed that <strong>the</strong> “Conchs” (<strong>the</strong><br />

established inhabitants) were “poor, almost illiterate,<br />

unchurched, and given to drinking and swearing” while<br />

<strong>the</strong> Loyalists were “<strong>the</strong> gentry . . . who employ <strong>the</strong>ir leisure<br />

hours in reading <strong>the</strong> works <strong>of</strong> Mandeville, Gibbon,<br />

Voltaire, Rousseau and Hume,” and were brought up in <strong>the</strong><br />

North American school <strong>of</strong> modern politics. Consequently,<br />

<strong>the</strong> two different cultures were in conflict.<br />

More intolerance<br />

William Wylly defined <strong>the</strong> major point <strong>of</strong> disagreement<br />

between <strong>the</strong> Loyalists and <strong>the</strong> government: “It is only<br />

This portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds depicts John Murray, Earl <strong>of</strong><br />

Dunmore, Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />

reasonable that <strong>the</strong> Loyalists be admitted to a share in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Legislature.” The Board <strong>of</strong> American Loyalists was<br />

organized in July, 1784. Their stated purpose was “to<br />

prepare and maintain <strong>the</strong> Rights and Liberties for which<br />

<strong>the</strong>y had left <strong>the</strong>ir home and possessions . . . ” The British<br />

Bahamians were not yet ready for <strong>the</strong>se “extremists” who<br />

wanted to change centuries <strong>of</strong> quasi-legal government.<br />

A disputed election in 1784 climaxed <strong>the</strong> friction. The<br />

Provost Marshall declared six old inhabitants elected,<br />

even though Loyalist candidates had received <strong>the</strong> majority<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> votes. Following circulation <strong>of</strong> a paper protesting<br />

<strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Assembly, <strong>the</strong> Speaker ordered it<br />

burned publically outside <strong>the</strong> Courtroom door. In 1787,<br />

John Murray, Earl <strong>of</strong> Dunmore, <strong>the</strong> last Royal Governor <strong>of</strong><br />

Virginia, was appointed Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. The<br />

Loyalists had become <strong>the</strong> stronger party but Dunmore<br />

WIKIPEDIA<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Loyalist ruins still stand at Wade’s Green, North Caicos.<br />

BARRY DRESSEL<br />

followed <strong>the</strong> policy <strong>of</strong> his predecessor and would not dissolve<br />

<strong>the</strong> disputed Assembly and have new elections. The<br />

“Long Parliament” lasted eight more years until <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong><br />

Dunmore’s administration.<br />

Governor Dunmore, an experienced politician, found<br />

a worthy adversary in William Wylly. Twenty-five years<br />

his junior, a lawyer, and captain in <strong>the</strong> Georgia King’s<br />

Rangers, William established his presence not as a ruffian<br />

soldier, but as a man with positive political ideas and<br />

capable statesmanship. He stated in his book, A Short<br />

Account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, “newcomers [to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas]<br />

who were accustomed to upright administration <strong>of</strong> law<br />

were galled by that perversion <strong>of</strong> public justice.”<br />

Wylly began his running fight against Dunmore, <strong>the</strong><br />

Assembly and <strong>the</strong> courts by describing <strong>the</strong> Assembly as<br />

“composed <strong>of</strong> destitute, bankrupt, and habitual drunkards<br />

<strong>of</strong> lowest description . . . four planters, not a merchant, nor<br />

a lawyer, or any man <strong>of</strong> respectable property.” His attack<br />

on <strong>the</strong> governor was equally bold. He called Dunmore<br />

“obstinate and violent by nature . . . with a capacity below<br />

mediocrity, little cultivated by education, ignorant <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> constitution <strong>of</strong> England . . . <strong>the</strong> lordly Despot <strong>of</strong> a<br />

petty Clan . . . and <strong>the</strong> immorality <strong>of</strong> his private life less<br />

reprehensible than <strong>the</strong> defects <strong>of</strong> his public character.”<br />

Specifically, Wylly accused Dunmore <strong>of</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>ring a child<br />

by a woman married to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Searchers <strong>of</strong> Customs.<br />

Dunmore struck back at Wylly by having him arrested<br />

on a charge <strong>of</strong> having called <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice “a damn’d<br />

liar.” Wylly’s version was that <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice warned<br />

him more than once to support <strong>the</strong> government more<br />

loyally. The trial was a farce and <strong>the</strong> case dismissed on<br />

<strong>the</strong> grounds <strong>of</strong> conflict <strong>of</strong> evidence.<br />

Wylly’s finest hour was his anti-slavery stand in 1816.<br />

By <strong>the</strong>n, he was <strong>the</strong> Attorney General <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas<br />

challenging <strong>the</strong> authority <strong>of</strong> master over slave. The case<br />

involved a Negro woman named Sue. She was brought to<br />

Nassau in 1809 by her master with a male Negro slave<br />

named Sandy and a child that had been born to <strong>the</strong>m in<br />

Georgia. The master attempted to take Sue, Sandy and<br />

<strong>the</strong> child back to Georgia. Evidently, Sue did not want to<br />

return and Wylly ruled that she could not be taken. He<br />

refused to appear before a Committee <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House to<br />

explain his ruling and was arrested and imprisoned, <strong>the</strong>n<br />

released by order <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice.<br />

The Assembly, asserting its claim to superiority over<br />

<strong>the</strong> Courts, declared <strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court unconstitutional.<br />

A public meeting supported <strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Assembly. At a later meeting, <strong>the</strong> vindictive Assembly<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

voted not to grant salaries to William Wylly or to <strong>the</strong><br />

Justice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> General Court from <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

dispute or for future services. This case was <strong>of</strong> such<br />

prominence that it became known as “<strong>the</strong> Wylly Affair.”<br />

During this period, economic prosperity and expansion<br />

assuaged political friction with <strong>the</strong> long-staple “sea<br />

island” cotton produced on island plantations becoming<br />

more pr<strong>of</strong>itable each year. All three <strong>of</strong> Alexander and<br />

Susannah Crook Wylly’s children (William, Alexander<br />

Campbell and Susannah) received 200-acre land grants<br />

on North Caicos. There is no irrefutable evidence <strong>the</strong>y<br />

exercised <strong>the</strong>se grants; however, on October 17, 1791,<br />

Alexander Campbell along with John Ferguson, John<br />

Lorimer and John Bell were appointed Justices <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Peace,<br />

<strong>the</strong> only authority authorized to provide legal services<br />

such as marriages, wills, etc. for <strong>the</strong> Loyalist residents <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. By a lengthy Act in 1799, <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />

& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were granted seats in <strong>the</strong> Assembly at<br />

Nassau. These Loyalists were undaunted in <strong>the</strong>ir zeal for<br />

right, as <strong>the</strong>y viewed it, and perhaps at ano<strong>the</strong>r place or<br />

time <strong>the</strong>y might have been counted among <strong>the</strong> great men<br />

<strong>of</strong> history.<br />

Postscript<br />

In 1776, after losing his position as Speaker and fearing<br />

being “tarr’d and fea<strong>the</strong>red” due to his loyalty to <strong>the</strong><br />

Crown, Alexander fled to East Florida (which was held by<br />

<strong>the</strong> British but was not a colony). He eventually returned<br />

to Savannah and died <strong>the</strong>re in 1781, his death probably<br />

“hasten’d by <strong>the</strong> troubles.” His widow lost <strong>the</strong>ir land by<br />

confiscation. Records <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sales <strong>of</strong> confiscated lands<br />

show heavy losses for <strong>the</strong> Wylly family: A house and lot<br />

in Savannah that belonged to both William and Alexander<br />

Wylly sold to Jacob Reed; a lot in Savannah that belonged<br />

to William Wylly sold to Thomas Washington; 1,000 acres<br />

that belonged to Alexander C. Wylly sold to <strong>the</strong> son <strong>of</strong><br />

James Habersham and ano<strong>the</strong>r 150 acres <strong>of</strong> land sold to<br />

Mordecai Sheftall.<br />

Alexander Campbell Wylly and family eventually<br />

returned to Georgia and settled on St. Simon’s Island<br />

where he was buried. Militancy seems to have run in <strong>the</strong><br />

family. During <strong>the</strong> American Civil War, in an ironic twist <strong>of</strong><br />

fate, his four grandsons took a rebel stand and fought for<br />

<strong>the</strong> Confederacy ra<strong>the</strong>r than remaing “loyal” to <strong>the</strong> United<br />

States. Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m obtained <strong>the</strong> rank <strong>of</strong> Captain and all<br />

suffered wounds during <strong>the</strong> war.<br />

Loyalist Dr. John Lorimer’s tomb is near <strong>the</strong> settlement by that name<br />

on Middle Caicos.<br />

Susannah Wylly married John Anderson, a Loyalist<br />

from Savannah. They tried to return to <strong>the</strong> continent<br />

but a chilly reception caused <strong>the</strong>m to go back to New<br />

Providence where <strong>the</strong>ir tombstones in <strong>the</strong> Cemetery at<br />

<strong>the</strong> old Church <strong>of</strong> St. Mat<strong>the</strong>w in Nassau tell us John was<br />

buried in 1838 and Susannah in 1845.<br />

William Wylly, <strong>the</strong> most prominent member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

family, married twice: Miss Mat<strong>the</strong>ws first and Miss Tyson<br />

second. He moved to St. Vincent, probably following his<br />

old friend Thomas Brown, who relocated <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong><br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, and in 1822 became <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice. He<br />

died three years later. a<br />

Sources<br />

Bailey, Thomas A., and David Kennedy, 1983. The<br />

American Pageant—A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Republic.<br />

Coakley, Robert W., and Stetson Conn, 1975. The War <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> American Revolution.<br />

Center <strong>of</strong> Military History. United States Army.<br />

Washington, D.C.<br />

Kozy, Charlene, 1982. “A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Georgia Loyalists<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />

Dissertation, Middle Tennessee State University.<br />

Peters, Thelma Peterson, 1960. “The American Loyalists<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Bahama <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />

Dissertation, University <strong>of</strong> Florida.<br />

DONALD H. KEITH<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

This is an example <strong>of</strong> a single scanned document in <strong>the</strong> Museum’s project to digitize <strong>the</strong> TCI’s archival heritage collections.<br />

MICHAEL P. PATEMAN<br />

One Page at a Time<br />

Digitizing TCI’s archival heritage collections.<br />

By Dr. Kelley Scudder-Temple, Dr. Michael P. Pateman and Vanessa Forbes-Pateman<br />

Although occupied for more than 300 years, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have been historically governed<br />

from afar. This absence <strong>of</strong> direct governance has resulted in limited archival conservation measures, leaving<br />

tens <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare documents in peril.<br />

While <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum (TCNM) has made attempts to identify and stabilize <strong>the</strong>se<br />

documents, <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> funding and conservation consultation resulted in digitization <strong>of</strong> only one<br />

file—until recently. During <strong>the</strong> past two years, efforts have been made to digitize <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable and<br />

essential documents in this collection. The digitization and dissemination <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se archives will provide<br />

researchers with new insight into <strong>the</strong>se rare documents.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 59


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Background<br />

During <strong>the</strong> 17th and 18th centuries, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> were occupied by French, Spanish and English settlers,<br />

with limited permanent settlements and virtually no<br />

direct governance. It wasn’t until <strong>the</strong> late 18th century<br />

that British Loyalists, with substantial numbers <strong>of</strong> slaves,<br />

began to arrive and establish settlements throughout <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong>. Given <strong>the</strong> country’s isolation and absence <strong>of</strong> a<br />

centralized government during this time, rapidly deteriorating<br />

archival materials are crucial to our understanding<br />

<strong>of</strong> this period in <strong>the</strong> colonial history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region.<br />

Often referred to as “outlying islands,” archival<br />

material from <strong>the</strong> TCI is scant, at best. The absence <strong>of</strong><br />

a central government repository, natural disasters and<br />

neglect has resulted in <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare<br />

documents. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents, such as personal<br />

correspondences, registers <strong>of</strong> births, baptisms, burials,<br />

land grants, etc., can provide a great deal <strong>of</strong> insight into<br />

<strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> those who were marginalized and enslaved in<br />

this outpost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. The digitization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />

materials provides academicians, <strong>of</strong>ficials and members<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community with <strong>the</strong> opportunity to explore <strong>the</strong><br />

histories <strong>of</strong> those who have <strong>of</strong>ten been excluded from<br />

mainstream publications.<br />

A 1983 survey <strong>of</strong> colonial archives inventoried 2,000<br />

titles, representing thousands <strong>of</strong> records. Shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter<br />

<strong>the</strong>se records were separated and placed in various<br />

buildings throughout Grand Turk. During this time <strong>the</strong><br />

vast majority <strong>of</strong> those records were damaged beyond<br />

recovery. Through <strong>the</strong> efforts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCNM—<strong>the</strong> only<br />

institution in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with a mandate<br />

to collect and curate historical and cultural records—<br />

nearly 50 linear feet were obtained (more than 50,000<br />

documents). In 2010 an EAP 408–Pilot Project, “From<br />

<strong>the</strong> brink: Identifying, collecting and digitizing records<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> after <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong><br />

Hurricane Ike,” surveyed and identified documents in <strong>the</strong><br />

TCNM archives, o<strong>the</strong>r government <strong>of</strong>fices, churches and<br />

private collections. Additional items were rescued from<br />

a structurally unsound building, treated with UV, vacuumed,<br />

stabilized and catalogued into <strong>the</strong> Museum. Only<br />

one item was digitized under this pilot project, leaving<br />

<strong>the</strong> remaining originals vulnerable to loss though natural<br />

disaster or simple ongoing deterioration. Without a digital<br />

record, damage to or destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents<br />

would represent a major loss <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cultural history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman establishes a digitization station in <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

Science Building.<br />

British Library<br />

Endangered Archives Programme<br />

In 2016, <strong>the</strong> Zemi Foundation was awarded a British<br />

Library Endangered Archives Grant to digitize various<br />

documents held by <strong>the</strong> TCNM. The Endangered Archives<br />

Programme (EAP) was established in 2004 to digitize and<br />

make available to all, archival materials that are endangered,<br />

damaged or at risk <strong>of</strong> destruction. Since that time,<br />

millions <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents have been<br />

scanned throughout <strong>the</strong> world and are now available<br />

to all, free and online. This grant provided <strong>the</strong> National<br />

Museum with a venue to identify and digitize documents<br />

that were in peril.<br />

The aim <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> work supported by this grant was<br />

to digitize archival collections held by <strong>the</strong> TCNM. This<br />

included collections previously identified by EAP 408. An<br />

additional aim was to raise awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> importance<br />

<strong>of</strong> protecting historic documents and convey <strong>the</strong> significance<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> a National Archives in <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Project results<br />

During <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> 24 months, staff from <strong>the</strong> Zemi<br />

Foundation and <strong>the</strong> TCNM, along with university interns<br />

and local volunteers, worked to digitize more than<br />

15,000 documents. Training sessions were held for government<br />

<strong>of</strong>ficials, museum staff and various members <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> community. The process <strong>of</strong> digitization was long and<br />

arduous. Staff and volunteers worked around <strong>the</strong> clock<br />

to ensure that documents most imperiled were identified<br />

and documented with <strong>the</strong> utmost <strong>of</strong> care.<br />

The documents digitized included birth, death and<br />

baptismal records from <strong>the</strong> Anglican and Methodist<br />

Churches, along with various government correspondences<br />

(detailed below). The digitization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />

documents was crucial as many had disintegrated so<br />

much that <strong>the</strong>y could not be handled.<br />

Government records digitized include correspondences<br />

to and from <strong>the</strong> Colonial Office in <strong>the</strong> United<br />

Kingdom and <strong>the</strong> Governor <strong>of</strong> Jamaica and minutes from<br />

<strong>the</strong> Legislative and Executive Councils. These include:<br />

Despatches to <strong>the</strong> Colonial Secretary (1850–1873)<br />

Records <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colonial Secretary (1859–1873)<br />

Despatches to <strong>the</strong> Governor in Chief (1849–1860)<br />

Legislative Council Records (1850–1895, 1926–1950)<br />

Executive Council Records (1850–1873)<br />

Parish Register Records (1822–1934)<br />

Church Records<br />

Prior to <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> public register <strong>of</strong> records, <strong>the</strong><br />

Turks & Caicos did not require a civil registration <strong>of</strong><br />

recording births, deaths or marriages. The church records<br />

are <strong>the</strong> only records containing this information. Church<br />

records digitized comprise <strong>of</strong>:<br />

Methodist Church Records (1839–1940)<br />

Anglican Church Records (1799–1922)<br />

Turks & Caicos residents from as far as Providenciales<br />

assisted in <strong>the</strong> digitization process. Volunteers included<br />

Hon. Josephine Connolly and <strong>the</strong> recently deceased<br />

Lawrence Ben.<br />

Opposite page from top: Volunteers learn <strong>the</strong> digitization process.<br />

Reverend Archbold from <strong>the</strong> Salem Baptist Church and Dr. Kelley<br />

Scudder-Temple examine rare church documents.<br />

Michael Temple, Zemi Technical Director, and Vanessa Forbes-<br />

Pateman, intern from Western Illinois University, painstakingly work<br />

to digitize TCI records.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 61


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

PATRICIA SAXTON<br />

This photo <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> venerable Victoria Public Library on Grand Turk vividly depicts <strong>the</strong> dual effects <strong>of</strong> a major fire and Hurricane Irma in 2017.<br />

Word quickly spread <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> digitization project and<br />

various members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community visited <strong>the</strong> museum<br />

to assess our efforts. Reverend Archbold from <strong>the</strong> Salem<br />

Baptist Church on Grand Turk asked <strong>the</strong> team to conduct<br />

a preliminary assessment <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents<br />

held by <strong>the</strong> church. Documents were assessed,<br />

digitized and stabilized to provide parishioners with<br />

<strong>the</strong> opportunity to see, firsthand, how <strong>the</strong> conservation<br />

process worked. We soon discovered that thousands <strong>of</strong><br />

documents are currently housed with various organizations<br />

and individuals throughout <strong>the</strong> country seeking a<br />

venue to preserve <strong>the</strong>m. Unfortunately, limited funding<br />

did not allow <strong>the</strong> team to digitize most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents.<br />

Therefore, training and community inclusionary<br />

measures played an integral role throughout <strong>the</strong> digitization<br />

process. Members <strong>of</strong> staff, board <strong>of</strong> directors,<br />

local volunteers (including politicians such as <strong>the</strong> former<br />

Deputy Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House <strong>of</strong> Assembly, <strong>the</strong> leader <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Opposition [who later became <strong>the</strong> Premier] and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Members <strong>of</strong> Parliament) participated in digitization activities.<br />

Why digitalize?<br />

No organization is totally immune from disasters, ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

by human action or <strong>the</strong> forces <strong>of</strong> nature. Disasters like<br />

earthquakes, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods and fires are<br />

world-wide occurrences. Many organizations assume <strong>the</strong>y<br />

will never experience a disaster, so <strong>the</strong>y never develop a<br />

strategy for preventing or responding to one.<br />

A burst pipe, an electrical fire, pest infestation,<br />

mold, improper storage or vandalism can wreak havoc<br />

in archives, damaging or destroying records that are<br />

irreplaceable. As seen recently in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos,<br />

hurricanes and fires can bring devastation to <strong>the</strong>se rare<br />

and endangered assets. During <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> this project,<br />

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astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

three natural disasters affected <strong>the</strong> TCI’s historic records.<br />

On March 9, 2017, a fire devastated <strong>the</strong> historic Victoria<br />

Public Library, destroying all material held <strong>the</strong>re, including<br />

non-digitized historic documents. On September<br />

7 and 14, 2017, Hurricanes Irma and Maria rampaged<br />

through <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. While none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

historic collections at <strong>the</strong> Museum were lost, <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

impacted as a result <strong>of</strong> no power at <strong>the</strong> TCNM Archives<br />

for six weeks.<br />

Most at risk for residents, government, businesses<br />

and for archives are records that document individual<br />

and collective memories, leading to “identity loss.”<br />

Following a hurricane, secondary threats become evident.<br />

Emergency power failures or electrical faults, leaks<br />

or drainage problems or mishandling and human error<br />

can all put <strong>the</strong>se documents at risk. Imperiled records on<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> such as property deeds, birth<br />

certificates and personal papers, as well as records documenting<br />

rights and entitlements—such as National Health<br />

Insurance and its benefits—are all crucial to individuals<br />

and institutions throughout <strong>the</strong> county.<br />

While <strong>the</strong> digitization <strong>of</strong> 15,000 documents may<br />

seem like a lot, we have only begun to scratch <strong>the</strong> surface.<br />

Hundreds <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered<br />

documents can still be found throughout <strong>the</strong> country.<br />

The National Museum is undergoing a comprehensive<br />

reorganization under <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new director,<br />

Dr. Michael Pateman. These efforts include an expansion<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> library and <strong>the</strong> establishment <strong>of</strong> an on-site volunteer<br />

digitization station.<br />

Given recent events, <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> digitization<br />

<strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents cannot be<br />

understated. We hope that in <strong>the</strong> near future, a National<br />

Archives can be established to ensure that <strong>the</strong>se rare and<br />

endangered documents are digitized and preserved for<br />

generations to come.<br />

A National Archives can help connect families by providing<br />

a resource for personal research and family history<br />

discovery. For decades, even centuries, national governments<br />

have ga<strong>the</strong>red data that has substantive value to<br />

researchers trying to improve quality <strong>of</strong> life. National<br />

archival records have helped researchers and reformers<br />

tackle topics as diverse as welfare, epidemiology, criminal<br />

justice, educational reform, migration and immigration<br />

and environmental affairs, to name just a few.<br />

The school system can use digitized resources from<br />

National Archives collections as educational resources for<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir classes. There are limited details about this region<br />

in history books. A National Archives encourages students<br />

to delve into <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional papers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />

political and civic leaders to find details about events or<br />

people. The students who conduct research into <strong>the</strong> primary<br />

documents <strong>of</strong> an island’s history begin asking more<br />

questions about both history and current issues. a<br />

We would like to recognize <strong>the</strong> efforts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> following<br />

individuals and organizations who helped make this<br />

digitization happen: The British Library Endangered<br />

Archives Programme, <strong>the</strong> staff and volunteers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Zemi<br />

Foundation, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum staff<br />

and volunteers, interns Alex Temple and Vanessa Forbes-<br />

Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />

Become a Member <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

National Museum and<br />

receive a year’s subscription<br />

to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Islands</strong> (which includes<br />

Astrolabe), free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

benefits.<br />

Senior (62+) $35<br />

Individual $50<br />

Family/Friend $100<br />

Sponsor $250<br />

Contributor $500<br />

Partner $750<br />

We have several options for joining:<br />

• Visit <strong>the</strong> Museum at our Providenciales location at<br />

The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location<br />

in Guinep House on Front Street<br />

• Visit our website at<br />

www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/.<br />

*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum may be tax-deductible<br />

if you join via Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />

Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />

See our website for more details:<br />

www.tcmuseum.org.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 63


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Emancipation Day<br />

The event, “Honoring <strong>the</strong> Ancestors: Celebrating <strong>the</strong><br />

Spirit and Tenacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>,” was held at Cheshire Hall Plantation on August<br />

1, <strong>2018</strong> to commemorate Emancipation Day. It was<br />

organized by <strong>the</strong> TCI National Museum and National<br />

Trust, in collaboration with <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Culture,<br />

and coordinated by David Bowen.<br />

Performances highlighted through song, poetry,<br />

music and dance various elements <strong>of</strong> TCI’s rich cultural<br />

heritage, attributed to an African ancestry. From <strong>the</strong><br />

sounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drumbeat by <strong>the</strong> Tuca Drummers to <strong>the</strong><br />

ripsaw music <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sea Breeze Ripsaw Band to <strong>the</strong> folk<br />

songs and dances done by David Bowen and <strong>the</strong> Tuca<br />

Dancers, all were in full celebratory mode.<br />

We travelled through time with Beth Atkins as she<br />

read about <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> Mary Prince, a slave who for ten<br />

years toiled in <strong>the</strong> salt pans in Grand Turk, and with<br />

O’Brien Forbes and Levenia Bishop as <strong>the</strong>y read slave<br />

narratives. We listened to and sang along to Negro spirituals<br />

sung by O’Brien Forbes.<br />

Beth Atkins reads<br />

about <strong>the</strong> slave, Mary<br />

Prince.<br />

Tuca Dancers perform a traditional dance.<br />

Dominique Rolle, in his spoken word, took us on an<br />

audible tour <strong>of</strong> Cheshire Hall Plantation to connect<br />

Pateman and Premier Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson.<br />

past to present, being conscious <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic significance<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event’s venue. We reflected with “Twis<br />

Flo” as he “preached” his thought-provoking poetry.<br />

Stephen Wilson’s reenactment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reading <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Emancipation Act was captivating. In keeping with<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, Cora Malcolm eloquently recited Maya<br />

Angelou’s poem “Still I Rise.”<br />

The proceedings concluded after we all made a<br />

reflective walk along <strong>the</strong> footpath <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic cotton<br />

plantation up to <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Great House. There,<br />

Pastor Goldston Williams <strong>of</strong>fered up prayers <strong>of</strong> thanksgiving<br />

in remembrance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancestors and gave <strong>the</strong><br />

benediction.<br />

Thank you to our sponsors FortisTCI, St. Monica’s<br />

Anglican Church and Hon. Delroy Williams, along with<br />

<strong>the</strong> teams <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum,<br />

Turks & Caicos National Trust and Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Culture and David Bowen. Thanks to <strong>the</strong> wonderful cast<br />

for sharing <strong>the</strong>ir talents so that we could reflect and<br />

celebrate this important event. Special thanks to all <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> attendees who took <strong>the</strong> time to come out and join<br />

this “Emancipation Celebration.” a<br />

Story & Photos By Candianne Williams<br />

Living History Summer Camp <strong>2018</strong><br />

We have come to <strong>the</strong> successful conclusion <strong>of</strong> our<br />

second Museum Living History Summer Camp at our<br />

location in Grace Bay, Providenciales. It was a week <strong>of</strong><br />

action-packed fun and learning that, according to <strong>the</strong><br />

campers, went by too quickly!<br />

Artist Aysha Stephens<br />

creates an Emancipation<br />

painting.<br />

Campers visited with elders at <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage<br />

House to learn what it was like to grow up in <strong>the</strong> mid-<br />

1900s in such a dwelling. Daphne Forbes taught <strong>the</strong><br />

children how to weave dried palm leaves, while Mary<br />

Williams explained how to make scrap mats. Alishia<br />

64 www.timespub.tc


astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />

Museum matters<br />

Duncanson and her team from <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong><br />

Culture demonstrated <strong>the</strong> traditional art <strong>of</strong> knitting<br />

fishing nets, a very important part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> maritime heritage<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

Mary Williams teaches<br />

campers how to<br />

make scrap mats.<br />

The Iguana mascot met <strong>the</strong> children at Little Water Cay.<br />

The campers learned how to make fever grass iced<br />

tea as well as <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> making grits. This involves<br />

shelling <strong>the</strong> corn, grinding it, cleaning it using <strong>the</strong> fanner<br />

basket and finally cooking it outdoors on a fire<br />

made under three stones.<br />

Farming was very much a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> traditional TCI<br />

lifestyle. Mario Smith <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture<br />

took <strong>the</strong> students to tour farms housing pigs, chickens,<br />

goats and a variety <strong>of</strong> plants. Each child planted <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

own okra plant to take home, and made a scrapbook to<br />

document <strong>the</strong> plant’s progress.<br />

Campers learned that because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American<br />

War <strong>of</strong> Independence, Loyalists settled in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to grow cotton. A tour <strong>of</strong> Cheshire Hall<br />

Plantation helped put <strong>the</strong> pieces <strong>of</strong> history toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal<br />

Resources, B Naqqi Manco gave an interactive presentation<br />

on <strong>the</strong> traditional uses <strong>of</strong> plants apart from<br />

being a source <strong>of</strong> food. Previous generations had a<br />

great knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plants and animals found in<br />

<strong>the</strong> environment that helped <strong>the</strong>m to survive. Amy<br />

Avenant taught about indigenous animals and how to<br />

coexist with <strong>the</strong>m to ensure that <strong>the</strong>y continue to survive.<br />

Campers visited <strong>the</strong> Iguana Island Nature Reserve<br />

on Little Water Cay to learn about <strong>the</strong> endangered Rock<br />

Iguanas.<br />

There were no shy campers in David Bowen’s traditional<br />

music and dance session! They had a wonderful<br />

dance party as Mr. Bowen played <strong>the</strong> drums and harmonica<br />

and showed <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> various traditional dance<br />

moves. Cricket with Coach Daryl Pierre Louis was <strong>the</strong><br />

highlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> final afternoon.<br />

Thank you, Turks & Caicos Banking Company and<br />

Donna Seim for being sponsors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> camp. Thanks<br />

also to <strong>the</strong> Taxi Association, Executive Tours, Caribbean<br />

Cruisin’, <strong>the</strong> National Trust, <strong>the</strong> TCI Departments<br />

<strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Culture, and Environment & Coastal<br />

The Turks & Caicos Taxi Association (at left “Skipper” Stubbs and<br />

at right President Ron Higgs) helped transport campers.<br />

Resources and <strong>the</strong> Cricket Association for making<br />

this a wonderful experience. Thanks to <strong>the</strong> TCI Ruby<br />

Association and Our Lady <strong>of</strong> Divine Providence Church<br />

for assistance with facilities. To our facilitators, camp<br />

coordinators and supervisors we say a special thank<br />

you. And finally, thanks to <strong>the</strong> parents who entrusted<br />

your children to us. We look forward to <strong>the</strong>ir participation<br />

in our upcoming Children’s Club activities. a<br />

Story & Photos By Candianne Williams<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 65


around <strong>the</strong> islands<br />

Opposite page: Three-month-old Lily and her owner came to April’s<br />

Spay Day, sponsored by <strong>the</strong> Wilcox Family.<br />

Above: One-year-old Crystal and her owner Marlon took advantage<br />

<strong>of</strong> SNiP’s services in July, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

Making a Cut<br />

New non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization helps control stray animal population.<br />

By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy SNiP<br />

Even though I don’t own a dog or cat, <strong>the</strong> name “SNiP” (which stands for Spay Neuter Program Inc.) causes<br />

me to cringe a bit in my inner parts. That’s until I remember how important <strong>the</strong>se simple operations are<br />

towards controlling <strong>the</strong> animal population in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In its first year alone, SNiP conducted<br />

376 surgeries, preventing <strong>the</strong> birth <strong>of</strong> a huge number <strong>of</strong> unwanted puppies and kittens.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 67


SNiP is one <strong>of</strong> those serendipitous ga<strong>the</strong>rings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

right people in <strong>the</strong> right time and place to do a world<br />

<strong>of</strong> good. This independent, not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization<br />

was launched in early 2017 by a group <strong>of</strong> volunteers<br />

from o<strong>the</strong>r local animal welfare organizations who were<br />

looking for a better, more effective and humane way <strong>of</strong><br />

controlling <strong>the</strong> TCI’s free-roaming animal population.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> past, free spay/neuter clinics were typically<br />

conducted yearly, attempting to sterilize as many as<br />

275 animals in a week. SNiP Directors Laurie McCann,<br />

Wendy Ayer and Aimee Deziel were involved in <strong>the</strong>se<br />

efforts and, while effective, realized that <strong>the</strong>y required<br />

massive amounts <strong>of</strong> organization to secure a location<br />

for <strong>the</strong> surgeries as well as transportation, lodging, food<br />

and supplies for <strong>the</strong> volunteer veterinarians who traveled<br />

from abroad.<br />

The SNiP directors and many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir volunteers<br />

have also volunteered at Potcake Place for years, where<br />

unwanted animals are brought to be adopted by residents<br />

and visitors. They felt frustration that it was <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong><br />

same owners bringing in puppies and refusing to sterilize<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir animals. And although Potcake Place is responsible<br />

for <strong>the</strong> annual adoption <strong>of</strong> 400 to 500 puppies, statistics<br />

show that one unspayed female dog can produce 12 to<br />

20 puppies in one year. In six years, her <strong>of</strong>fspring can<br />

produce more than 60,000 dogs! This underscored <strong>the</strong><br />

importance <strong>of</strong> starting at <strong>the</strong> top and sterilizing that one<br />

female.<br />

The need for an ongoing, year-round spay/neuter<br />

program was clear. In early 2017, a new animal wellness<br />

center—Bark & Bliss—opened in Providenciales, a project<br />

backed by SNiP Director Aimee Deziel. Its full-time<br />

veterinary team is led by Dr. Meghann Kruck, whose<br />

experience includes running a low-income animal clinic<br />

in Minneapolis, Minnesota for five years. In fact, Dr.<br />

Meghann’s introduction to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos came as a<br />

result <strong>of</strong> her meeting Susan Blehr and volunteering at <strong>the</strong><br />

TCSPCA’s spay/neuter clinics. Aimee and Dr. Meghann<br />

readily agreed to set aside time and space in <strong>the</strong> clinic<br />

for weekly sterilization operations. Twa Marcelin and Wolf<br />

lawyer Erica Krygsman became <strong>the</strong> fourth director, who<br />

handles all legal matters for <strong>the</strong> NPO.<br />

How does SNiP operate? Anyone who wants to spay<br />

or neuter <strong>the</strong>ir pet, free-<strong>of</strong>-charge, no questions asked,<br />

can contact SNiP by phone, on Facebook, or via email. A<br />

volunteer will call <strong>the</strong>m back and walk <strong>the</strong>m through <strong>the</strong><br />

procedure. Laurie McCann explains, “The owner will drop<br />

<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>ir pet in <strong>the</strong> morning. The vet team examines <strong>the</strong><br />

animal to make sure <strong>the</strong>y are healthy enough for surgery<br />

Happy that <strong>the</strong> operation went well are Slax and his owner at January’s<br />

Spay Day, sponsored by Turkberry.<br />

and administers a flea/tick pill and for dogs, a distemper/Parvo<br />

vaccine. Once <strong>the</strong> animal is anes<strong>the</strong>tized, <strong>the</strong><br />

surgery is completed in 15 minutes or less. They can go<br />

home that evening unless <strong>the</strong>y are an outside animal. In<br />

that case, we hold <strong>the</strong>m overnight, providing food, water<br />

and shelter, so <strong>the</strong>y can enjoy full recovery without being<br />

bo<strong>the</strong>red by <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r or o<strong>the</strong>r animals.”<br />

Most owners typically only have to wait one to two<br />

weeks maximum for <strong>the</strong>ir pet’s operation and, thanks<br />

to sponsors and donations <strong>the</strong> entire process, including<br />

drugs administered, is free!<br />

One unspayed female dog can produce<br />

12 - 20 puppies in one year<br />

In 6 years her <strong>of</strong>fspring can produce<br />

more than 60,000 dogs<br />

68 www.timespub.tc


Above: Working April’s Spay Day are <strong>the</strong> Bark & Bliss team and SNiP<br />

volunteers (from left): Dr. Meghann Kruck, Lauren H<strong>of</strong>land, Auriol<br />

Lloyd-Wright, Lisa French, Wendy Ayer, Laurie McCann and Pauline<br />

Eden.<br />

Right: Snow is in recovery with her owners in March, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />

With June 21, <strong>2018</strong> marking SNiP’s first anniversary,<br />

<strong>the</strong> group is proud to say that 376 successful<br />

surgeries were performed (259 dogs and 117 cats). Pet<br />

owners came from around Providenciales, with 65% being<br />

Islanders and nearly 1/4 from Blue Hills.<br />

The SNiP board <strong>of</strong> directors lauds <strong>the</strong> group’s sponsors.<br />

Some, such as <strong>the</strong> Gansevoort Turks + Caicos,<br />

sponsor a monthly spay day, which includes <strong>the</strong> purchase<br />

<strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> medicines and supplies. O<strong>the</strong>rs, including Villa<br />

Renaissance, donate old sheets and towels and cash.<br />

Some sponsors are condominium owners who are animal<br />

lovers and want to give back to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>the</strong>y so<br />

much enjoy.<br />

After Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit <strong>the</strong> TCI in 2017,<br />

14,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> dog food were donated to feed hungry<br />

animals. As SNiP and o<strong>the</strong>r volunteers distributed<br />

<strong>the</strong> food, <strong>the</strong>y collected 300 names <strong>of</strong> pet owners who<br />

wanted <strong>the</strong>ir animals sterilized. They were pleasantly<br />

surprised, understanding that <strong>the</strong> Caribbean culture<br />

(especially men) do not always agree with <strong>the</strong> procedure,<br />

feeling that it undermines an animal’s virility and vitality!<br />

SNiP’s efforts in <strong>the</strong> settlements also occasionally<br />

cross into animal welfare territory. Laurie recalls going<br />

into Leeward Palms to collect a dog for neutering and<br />

finding ano<strong>the</strong>r dog with a collar deeply embedded in <strong>the</strong><br />

flesh around its throat. Apparently, <strong>the</strong> owners had put<br />

on <strong>the</strong> collar when <strong>the</strong> dog was a puppy but were not able<br />

Please help to provide FREE spay & neuter to <strong>the</strong> animals <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />

Free Spay Neuter Program<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 69


to catch it as it grew. Via Facebook, animal lovers pitched<br />

in to help with his medical and ongoing care and his case<br />

kickstarted <strong>the</strong> formation <strong>of</strong> SNiP’s Angel Fund, to help<br />

similar pets in need.<br />

Dr. Meghann is a perfect fit for SNiP. Besides being<br />

talented, energetic and bubbling with enthusiasm for animals<br />

and <strong>the</strong>ir owners, she has performed nearly 40,000<br />

sterilizations in her career to date. She is excited to be<br />

on-call 24 hours a day and able to provide a continuity<br />

<strong>of</strong> care to pets in <strong>the</strong> Bark & Bliss full-service clinic. She<br />

and Veterinary Technician Lauren H<strong>of</strong>land have worked<br />

toge<strong>the</strong>r for many years. Besides <strong>the</strong>ir duties on Provo,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y regularly travel to Grand Turk, typically seeing as<br />

many as 25 animals in a six hour day.<br />

Resorts who are SNiP sponsors can take advantage<br />

<strong>of</strong> a new program for stray cats. It involves setting up an<br />

on-site feeding station, capturing and sterilizing <strong>the</strong> cats,<br />

<strong>the</strong>n returning <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> resort, where <strong>the</strong>y are likely to<br />

guard <strong>the</strong>ir food source and keep o<strong>the</strong>r strays away.<br />

Both Laurie and Dr. Meghann are big on client education,<br />

especially to <strong>the</strong> younger generation. They say, “It’s<br />

important to take care <strong>of</strong> your pets. Making sure <strong>the</strong>y<br />

have <strong>the</strong> proper immunizations and treatments early on<br />

will make <strong>the</strong>m happier, healthier and more energetic.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r pet owners will see <strong>the</strong> difference. When <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

spayed or neutered, males especially are more even-tempered<br />

and less likely to roam or fight. It’s a win-win<br />

situation.”<br />

Having fewer stray animals improves tourism as well.<br />

Laurie explains, “Many visitors are shocked when <strong>the</strong>y see<br />

free-roaming, skinny, sick, injured or dead animals in <strong>the</strong><br />

bush or on <strong>the</strong> roads. When you sterilize your animal, you<br />

are doing your part to keep TCI ‘Beautiful by Nature.’”<br />

Along with many private donors and a host <strong>of</strong><br />

hard-working and much-appreciated volunteers, SNiP corporate<br />

supporters and sponsors to date are: Gansevoort<br />

Turks + Caicos, Turkberry, Grace Bay Resorts, Villa<br />

Renaissance, The Palms, The Sands, The Shore Club,<br />

Tranquility Property Management, Island Bargains and<br />

Save Dog Project. Additional Spay Day sponsorship opportunities<br />

are available, with sponsors recognized through<br />

social media and ongoing radio ads.<br />

For more information, see contact details below. a<br />

June 21, <strong>2018</strong> we celebrated our 1 year anniversary!<br />

During our first year, we provided<br />

376<br />

23%<br />

Blue Hills<br />

69% 31%<br />

FREE Spay & Neuter Surgeries<br />

11%<br />

Grace Bay<br />

9%<br />

Leeward<br />

Leeward Palms<br />

62%<br />

38%<br />

23%<br />

South Dock<br />

Five Cays<br />

Chalk Sound<br />

12%<br />

Long Bay<br />

Thank you to our Donors, Volunteers, Vet Team and pet owners<br />

who participated during our first year.<br />

To donate or learn more visit www.SNIPTCI.com<br />

Free Spay Neuter Program<br />

Spay Day Sponsorship inquiries can be<br />

directed to donate@sniptci.com<br />

70 www.timespub.tc


Speaking <strong>of</strong><br />

island pets,<br />

Cake is a new<br />

children’s<br />

book by<br />

Rebecca Crow.<br />

It tells <strong>the</strong><br />

story <strong>of</strong> young<br />

Nikolai, who<br />

travels with<br />

his parents on<br />

a vacation to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />

Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and ends up bringing home a potcake<br />

he finds on <strong>the</strong> beach by Da Conch Shack. Nikolai and<br />

his parents go to Potcake Place and, as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

K9 Rescue program, complete <strong>the</strong> paperwork and veterinary<br />

examination that allow Cake to travel home<br />

on <strong>the</strong> plane with Nicolai and his family.<br />

It took a trip to Turks & Caicos in 2009 to inspire<br />

author Rebecca Crow to write her first children’s<br />

book. Cake is based on her family’s actual experience<br />

with a potcake puppy by <strong>the</strong> same name. Real-life<br />

“Cake” was from a litter <strong>of</strong> three-week-old puppies<br />

that were left abandoned in a box at <strong>the</strong> doorstep<br />

<strong>of</strong> Potcake Place. Through <strong>the</strong> K9 Rescue program,<br />

Rebecca’s family was able to adopt and bring home<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir dream dog.<br />

“Potcakes”—so named because <strong>the</strong>y were traditionally<br />

fed from <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> rice baked on <strong>the</strong><br />

bottom <strong>of</strong> pots—are considered <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ native<br />

breed. Most have sweet dispositions and loyal hearts,<br />

but <strong>of</strong>ten don’t have a place to call home.<br />

The Potcake Place K9 Rescue program was created<br />

to help reduce <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> homeless pets.<br />

They house between 50 and 70 strays and work with<br />

local vets to provide <strong>the</strong>se animals with vaccinations,<br />

deworming and <strong>the</strong> approval <strong>of</strong> health tickets<br />

for travel. Arrangements are also made to book an<br />

adopted dog’s plane ride to <strong>the</strong>ir new home, to meet<br />

<strong>the</strong> family at <strong>the</strong> airport or to arrange a transfer if<br />

<strong>the</strong> family is not visiting <strong>the</strong> island. Potcake Place K9<br />

Rescue keeps <strong>the</strong>ir doors open only by private donations<br />

and volunteer workers’ generous help.<br />

Rebecca Crow is donating 10% <strong>of</strong> all proceeds<br />

from <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> Cake back to Potcake Place K9<br />

Rescue, in thanks for one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greatest gifts her<br />

family has ever received. a<br />

urgent care • family medicine<br />

URGENT CARE<br />

WALK-IN CLINIC<br />

AND WELLNESS CENTRE<br />

• • •<br />

(649) 941-5252<br />

on site pharmacy<br />

located adjacent graceway gourmet<br />

Focused on <strong>the</strong> patient<br />

The way medicine should be practiced<br />

Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />

daily breakfast to government school students –<br />

starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />

Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />

We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />

breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />

If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />

email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />

or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 71


about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />

Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />

Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />

Where we are<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />

<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />

Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />

The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />

by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />

<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />

Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />

<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />

The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />

area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />

population is approximately 40,000.<br />

Getting here<br />

There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />

Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />

airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />

At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />

arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />

Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte and<br />

New York/JFK. JetBlue Airways <strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort<br />

Lauderdale, Boston and New York/JFK. Southwest Airlines<br />

travels to Fort Lauderdale. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />

and New York/JFK. WestJet travels from Toronto. Air<br />

Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto. British Airways travels<br />

from London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />

Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,<br />

72 www.timespub.tc


Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien<br />

and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,<br />

Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,<br />

Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.<br />

Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on<br />

InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to<br />

Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> September<br />

<strong>2018</strong> and subject to change.)<br />

Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />

Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea<br />

and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />

Language<br />

English.<br />

Time zone<br />

Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />

observed.<br />

Currency<br />

The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />

& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />

dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />

changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />

MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />

Climate<br />

The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />

hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />

temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />

<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />

keep life comfortable.<br />

Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />

daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />

some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />

and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />

in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />

Entry requirements<br />

Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />

Customs formalities<br />

Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />

<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />

and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />

those charged with compressed air without prior<br />

approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />

strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />

drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 73


Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />

merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />

60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />

7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />

government revenue.<br />

Transportation<br />

A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />

vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />

rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />

left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />

round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />

drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />

many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />

areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />

also available.<br />

Telecommunications<br />

FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />

Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />

including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />

and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />

connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />

a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />

for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />

Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />

and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />

arrange international roaming.<br />

Electricity<br />

120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />

Departure tax<br />

US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />

cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />

cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />

Courier service<br />

Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />

Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />

limited to incoming delivery.<br />

Postal service<br />

The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />

located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />

Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />

Media<br />

Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />

and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />

Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />

EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />

transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />

and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />

local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />

Medical services<br />

There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />

large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />

Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />

24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />

imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />

physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />

In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />

with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />

Immigration<br />

A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />

work permit and business license are also required to<br />

work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />

granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />

not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />

to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />

for T&C Islanders.<br />

Government/Legal system<br />

TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />

Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />

council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />

Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />

woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />

Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />

The legal system is based upon English Common<br />

Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />

Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />

<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />

Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />

Taxes<br />

There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />

or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />

exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />

duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />

restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />

as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />

74 www.timespub.tc


Brew ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />

Economy<br />

Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />

Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry, and<br />

fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The<br />

<strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with <strong>the</strong><br />

world’s first commercial conch farm once operating on<br />

Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />

are imported.<br />

The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />

important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />

such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />

trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />

The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />

and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />

People<br />

Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />

“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />

slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />

salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />

expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />

Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />

Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />

Churches<br />

Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />

are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />

Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />

Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />

Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />

Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />

Turk’s Head Brewery<br />

Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />

11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />

$15/pp<br />

Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />

after your tour!<br />

Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />

Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />

www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />

52 Universal Dr.<br />

Providenciales, TCI<br />

TOUR TASTE SHOP<br />

All Natural &<br />

Gluten Free<br />

Pets<br />

Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />

health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />

results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />

clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />

Health Services.<br />

National symbols<br />

The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />

The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />

bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />

National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />

bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />

dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />

and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />

<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />

and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />

Made with family recipes that date back<br />

centuries, Islander, <strong>the</strong> original Turks and<br />

Caicos alcoholic ginger beer, is available on<br />

Providenciales at <strong>the</strong> Graceway Gourmet and<br />

<strong>the</strong> IGA, as well as local bars and restaurants.<br />

www.islandergingerbeer.com<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 75


<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />

with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />

Going green<br />

TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />

through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />

glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />

a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />

Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />

Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />

Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />

ISLAND AUTO RENTALS<br />

For Quality & Reliable Service<br />

& Competitive Prices<br />

The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />

Neville Adams<br />

Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />

Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />

Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />

Providenciales<br />

Levoi Marshall<br />

Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />

Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />

Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />

Recreation<br />

Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />

can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />

glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />

waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />

diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and<br />

beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and<br />

excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.<br />

Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />

course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />

enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33<br />

national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas <strong>of</strong><br />

historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides<br />

to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong> major<br />

historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on<br />

Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A<br />

scheduled ferry and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it<br />

easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />

riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />

available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />

centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />

services.<br />

Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />

at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />

a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />

gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />

Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />

sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />

including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />

sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />

crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />

and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />

76 www.timespub.tc


where to stay<br />

Grand Turk<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

H<br />

The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />

Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />

Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />

Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />

Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />

Middle Caicos<br />

H<br />

Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • •<br />

North Caicos<br />

H<br />

Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />

Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />

Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />

Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />

JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />

Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />

Pine Cay<br />

H<br />

The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />

Parrot Cay<br />

H<br />

COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Providenciales<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

G<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

G<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />

The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />

Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />

Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />

Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />

The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />

Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />

Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />

La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />

The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />

Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 77


where to stay<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

Providenciales (continued)<br />

Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />

Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />

Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />

The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />

The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />

Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • •<br />

Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 431 8899 • Web www.villarenaissancebeachresort.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />

The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />

West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />

range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />

US$ (subject to change)<br />

number <strong>of</strong> units<br />

major credit cards<br />

restaurant<br />

bar<br />

air conditioning<br />

phone in unit<br />

television in unit<br />

kitchen in unit<br />

laundry service<br />

pool<br />

on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />

Salt Cay<br />

Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />

Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />

Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />

Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />

Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />

Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />

The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />

H<br />

H<br />

H<br />

G<br />

South Caicos<br />

East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />

Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />

South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />

Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />

Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />

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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 79


dining out – providenciales<br />

Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />

cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />

Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />

catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />

Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />

Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />

AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />

Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />

Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />

for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />

6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />

dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />

Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />

All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />

Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />

946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />

tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />

and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />

Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />

selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />

setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />

local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />

live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />

Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />

Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />

7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />

Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />

Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />

pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />

Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />

Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />

on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />

The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />

Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />

tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.<br />

Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />

fried chicken, native fare.<br />

Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />

The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />

daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />

Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />

resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />

Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />

Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />

Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />

Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for <strong>the</strong><br />

Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />

Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />

Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />

tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />

room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />

Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />

garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />

PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />

Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />

<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />

with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />

Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />

Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />

Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />

beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />

Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />

American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />

dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />

for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />

The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />

and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />

Live music Friday nights.<br />

Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />

Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />

Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />

dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />

Open daily.<br />

El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134.<br />

Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Spanish tapas with a wide mix <strong>of</strong> cold and hot plates<br />

meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from<br />

5 PM.<br />

Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />

cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />

Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />

Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />

overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />

AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />

Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />

Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />

flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />

PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />

Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />

Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />

cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />

Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />

cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />

on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Carry-out available.<br />

Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />

Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />

Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />

smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />

candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />

Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />

Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />

Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />

dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />

6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night<br />

on Tuesday with live music.<br />

80 www.timespub.tc


Grace Grill — Neptune Plaza. Tel: 332-3663. Simple fare with a<br />

Latin flair. Steaks, burgers, vegetarian. Open daily to 10 PM.<br />

Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />

Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />

dinner to 9 PM.<br />

Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />

941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />

pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />

Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />

Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />

where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />

deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />

Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />

5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />

Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />

Reservations required.<br />

Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle<br />

kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open<br />

Friday, Noon to 2 PM.<br />

Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />

8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />

Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />

21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />

and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />

café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />

delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />

Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946-<br />

5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed<br />

“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect<br />

mix <strong>of</strong> sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in<br />

Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday.<br />

Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />

Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />

chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />

The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />

Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />

under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />

5:30 to 10 PM.<br />

Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />

Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />

Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily<br />

8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />

Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />

taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />

tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />

daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />

Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />

French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />

Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />

Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />

yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />

Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />

The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />

lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />

world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />

Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade<br />

gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.<br />

Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />

941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />

views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />

bar opens at 4 PM.<br />

Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />

and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />

dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />

Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />

go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />

Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />

4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />

<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />

Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />

Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />

island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />

Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />

Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />

Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />

Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885.<br />

International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving<br />

dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference<br />

facility, events, catering.<br />

Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable<br />

steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta.<br />

Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open<br />

Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1<br />

PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM.<br />

Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical<br />

cuisine in a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine<br />

list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to<br />

10:30 PM.<br />

The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />

Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />

flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />

global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />

for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />

Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />

Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />

Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />

from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />

Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />

Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />

AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />

Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />

8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />

11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />

Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French<br />

artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie,<br />

pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />

Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />

Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free<br />

fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch<br />

Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available.<br />

Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />

Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />

and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />

<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 81


Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />

Outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina. Sandwiches, burgers,<br />

salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />

Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />

cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />

5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />

72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666.<br />

Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired<br />

menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally.<br />

Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />

941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />

daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />

Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />

c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />

smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />

Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />

fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />

weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />

Skull Rock Cantina — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place<br />

for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight.<br />

Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />

Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />

Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />

941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />

Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />

Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />

Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />

to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />

Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />

Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />

produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />

Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />

Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />

lunch and dinner daily.<br />

Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />

Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />

dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />

941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />

Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />

Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />

Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />

toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />

Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />

9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />

kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />

Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />

dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />

late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />

The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,<br />

island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.<br />

Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />

0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />

to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />

out available.<br />

Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />

dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />

daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />

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MEET OUR NEWEST INNOVATION<br />

We are driving towards an exciting energy future!<br />

FortisTCI proudly introduces our Nissan Leaf Electric Vehicle (EV) and Charging Station. . .a pilot project to<br />

support our environmentally sustainable energy solutions for <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />

To learn more about this EV pilot project and our renewable energy programs, email us at:<br />

renewableenergy@fortistci.com<br />

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Allied Member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Year<br />

www.fortistci.com | 649-946-4313


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We all have dreams, and <strong>the</strong>y are as vast and varied as <strong>the</strong> world is wide. But <strong>the</strong>y all start with<br />

inspiration, and inspiration starts with your surroundings. That’s what home is.<br />

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It’s all part <strong>of</strong> what makes a space a home, because your home is where you truly LIVE.<br />

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