Times of the Islands Fall 2018
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS FALL <strong>2018</strong> NO. 124<br />
ISLANDS<br />
FREEDIVING<br />
Confronting <strong>the</strong> Deep<br />
KAYAK FISHING<br />
A South Caicos Original<br />
SEA SHEPHERD<br />
Protecting <strong>the</strong> Voiceless
H O W D O YO U L I K E Y O U R L U X U R Y ?<br />
EFFORTLESS? OR BRILLIANTLY UNCONVENTIONAL?<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE PALMS<br />
THE SHORE CLUB<br />
The refined sophistication <strong>of</strong> The Palms on Grace Bay<br />
Beach, consistently honored by travel publications<br />
for its sense <strong>of</strong> elegance and easy atmosphere. The<br />
savvy chic <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Shore Club, <strong>the</strong> stunning new gamechanger<br />
on Long Bay Beach. Where whimsy rules and<br />
magic awaits around every corner. Each with a style<br />
and a vibe all its own. Both singular destinations, part<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hartling Group’s stellar portfolio <strong>of</strong> luxury resorts<br />
which also includes The Sands at Grace Bay. Your call.<br />
THE COOL SIDE OF CLASSIC<br />
649.946.8666<br />
<strong>the</strong>palmstc.com<br />
WRITE YOUR STORY HERE<br />
649.339.8000<br />
<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com
TURKS & CAICOS<br />
Generation<br />
Everyone<br />
Everything’s Included for Everyone!<br />
2017<br />
2017<br />
More Quality<br />
Inclusions than<br />
any o<strong>the</strong>r Resorts<br />
in <strong>the</strong> World<br />
At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own perfect vacation. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong> white-sand<br />
beaches and calm waters featuring unlimited land and<br />
water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong> awesome 45,000 sq.<br />
ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global<br />
Gourmet TM Dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and<br />
non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />
included. Even <strong>the</strong> tips, taxes, and Beaches transfers*.<br />
We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks, new live<br />
entertainment, and re-styled accommodations<br />
… making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better for<br />
Generation Everyone.<br />
®<br />
Turks & Caicos Resort Villages & Spa<br />
by Sandals<br />
BEACHES.COM in <strong>the</strong> U.S. & Canada: 1-800-BEACHES<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos 649-946-8000<br />
@beachesresorts<br />
WORLD’S BEST ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />
20<br />
TURKS & CAICOS<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD ®<br />
TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
by Sandals<br />
*Airport transfers included. O<strong>the</strong>r transfers may be additional. Beaches ® is a registered trademark. Unique Vacations, Inc., is an affiliate <strong>of</strong> Unique Travel Corp., <strong>the</strong> worldwide representative <strong>of</strong> Beaches Resorts.
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
13 Eye on <strong>the</strong> Sky<br />
Last Call?<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
18 Getting to Know<br />
Lost at Sea: Rocky Higgs<br />
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />
46 The Sporting Life<br />
Gone Fishin’<br />
Story & Photos By John Galleymore<br />
66 Around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Making a Cut: SNiP<br />
By Kathy Borsuk<br />
72 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
77 Where to Stay<br />
79 Classified Ads<br />
80 Dining Out<br />
82 Subscription Form<br />
Features<br />
22 The Voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Voiceless: Sea Shepherd<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
34 Diving Free<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
Green Pages<br />
28 An Unexpected Landing<br />
By B Naqqi Manco<br />
30 Keeping Turtles Out <strong>of</strong> Trouble<br />
By <strong>the</strong> Marine Conservation Society<br />
Photos By Marta Morton, Harbour Club Villas<br />
33 Trash to Cash<br />
Story & Photos By Amy Avenant<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS FALL <strong>2018</strong> NO. 124<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Photographer Agile LeVin captured this magnificent<br />
shot <strong>of</strong> freediver Samantha Kildegaard, <strong>of</strong> Free Dive<br />
With Me, at Malcolm’s Road Beach on Providenciales.<br />
Agile, who grew up and currently resides in Turks &<br />
Caicos, has been turning his camera to <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
beauty for most <strong>of</strong> his life. He, along with his bro<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Daniel, produce VisitTCI.com, a website filled with<br />
comprehensive and current information about <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> and more <strong>of</strong> his stunning photography.<br />
66<br />
ISLANDS<br />
Astrolabe<br />
54 Casualties <strong>of</strong> War<br />
By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />
59 One Page at a Time<br />
By Dr. Kelley Scudder-Temple, Dr. Michael P.<br />
Pateman and Vanessa Forbes-Patemen<br />
COURTESY SNIP TCI<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Prince’s Turks and Caicos Estate<br />
The exclusive private sanctuary <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> late iconic musician Prince. This 6 bedroom oceanfront<br />
mansion is adjacent to o<strong>the</strong>r multi-million dollar estates in <strong>the</strong> upscale Turtle Tail area on <strong>the</strong><br />
sou<strong>the</strong>rn shore <strong>of</strong> Providenciales. Spanning 5.74 acres this stunning compound perched on over 40<br />
ft. <strong>of</strong> elevation allows for <strong>the</strong> most breathtaking panoramic turquoise ocean views. Own a stunning<br />
home and a piece <strong>of</strong> music history. Contact Bernadette for fur<strong>the</strong>r details and to arrange a showing.<br />
US$9,900,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />
development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />
on independent figures her gross transaction<br />
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />
listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />
North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />
to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />
condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />
undeveloped sites.<br />
Ultra Exclusive Pine Cay - McBride House<br />
Discerning investors take note; McBride House a very exclusive Pine Cay island home in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos is now available to purchase pending Pine Cay Homeowners Association membership approval.<br />
A true island home, with a laidback vibe and an emphasis on natural beauty and <strong>the</strong><br />
simple pleasures in life. Centrally located directly in front <strong>of</strong> a beautiful freshwater pond<br />
and just steps away from <strong>the</strong> Meridian Club resort and 2 miles <strong>of</strong> secluded pristine beach.<br />
US$1,400,000<br />
Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />
independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />
Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />
and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />
earned over time through her dedication,<br />
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />
personal experience as having practiced law<br />
in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />
properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />
her customers and developers on what to<br />
anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />
process.<br />
Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />
estate industry and her humor and energy<br />
make her a pleasure to work with.<br />
Parrot Cay Beachfront - Dhyani House<br />
Dhyani House in Parrot Cay, Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> is a “must see” property for<br />
discerning real estate buyers seeking peace, tranquility and more seclusion than many o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Caribbean <strong>Islands</strong> or Providenciales have to <strong>of</strong>fer. Viewings are strictly by appointment<br />
with a minimum <strong>of</strong> 24 hours’ notice and only available to view when not occupied.<br />
US$12,000,000<br />
Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />
to find out more about owning real estate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
COURTESY FORTISTCI<br />
One year ago, this was a FortisTCI local linesman’s view <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, as <strong>the</strong> energy company worked to restore power across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Credit Due<br />
As I write this, next week will mark <strong>the</strong> one-year anniversary <strong>of</strong> Hurricanes Irma and Maria hitting <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. The strange year that followed has blown by in a gust as everyone struggles to pick up <strong>the</strong> pieces<br />
and move forward. My stomach rolls at <strong>the</strong> thought <strong>of</strong> anything close to a hurricane approaching this year, and we<br />
pray <strong>the</strong> season remains quiet.<br />
FortisTCI recently released a documentary that highlights <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se hurricanes and <strong>the</strong> company’s restoration<br />
efforts after <strong>the</strong> storms. (See https://youtu.be/y2UPC9XoBXU). It reminded me how fortunate <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong><br />
were to have all-important power restored so quickly. Electricity enabled <strong>the</strong> bountiful winter/spring/summer tourism<br />
season to happen —which is, in turn, fueling <strong>the</strong> economy’s recovery.<br />
All too <strong>of</strong>ten, when a “storm” passes—be it physical, emotional, spiritual, or all three—we forget <strong>the</strong> people,<br />
organizations and precepts that got us through. In this case it was <strong>the</strong> resilience <strong>of</strong> Islanders and residents, <strong>the</strong> outstanding<br />
businesses that support TCI’s infrastructure and economy, and, for me and many o<strong>the</strong>rs, a strong faith in<br />
God’s good plans for a hopeful future.<br />
How I try to appreciate each sunny day! Lights and fans! Internet at <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice! A hot shower! A cold drink from<br />
a working refrigerator! A truck that runs! A ro<strong>of</strong> that doesn’t leak! And, most <strong>of</strong> all, <strong>the</strong> continuing opportunity to<br />
work with our contributors, advertisers and readers in putting toge<strong>the</strong>r my beloved <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> magazine.<br />
I know you will enjoy this issue.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 946-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Ocean Club West<br />
Suite 332 is a beautifully remodeled penthouse<br />
with 2 bedrooms and 2 and a half bathrooms at<br />
<strong>the</strong> extremely popular Ocean Club West. The new<br />
furnishings and ocean views <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay also<br />
enhance <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>of</strong> this remarkable property.<br />
US$825,000<br />
West Bay Club<br />
Suite 102 is a spacious 1 bedroom and 1 and<br />
a half bathrooms condo with over 1,490 sq.<br />
ft <strong>of</strong> living space. Conveniently located beach<br />
front and level providing expansive views <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> turquoise waters <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay Beach<br />
US$639,000<br />
Bernadette Hunt<br />
Cell ~ 649 231 4029 | Tel ~ 649 941 3361<br />
Bernadette@TurksAndCaicosProperty.com<br />
Bernadette has lived in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> for over 21 years and witnessed <strong>the</strong><br />
development and transition <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
into a significant tourist destination. Based<br />
on independent figures her gross transaction<br />
numbers are unrivalled. Bernadette has<br />
listings on Providenciales, Parrot Cay,<br />
North and Middle Caicos and is delighted<br />
to work with sellers and buyers <strong>of</strong> homes,<br />
condos, commercial real estate and vacant<br />
undeveloped sites.<br />
Chalk Sound Villa<br />
NEWLY renovated 4 bedroom oceanfront villa<br />
ideal for rental. Located on .46 ac. with 111 ft. <strong>of</strong><br />
waterfront. Features a large pool and deck PLUS a<br />
dock right on <strong>the</strong> turquoise waters <strong>of</strong> Chalk Sound.<br />
US$1,200,000<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay<br />
Suite 6301 is a reduced 1,028 sq. ft. 1 bedroom<br />
and 1 bathroom penthouse condo. The suite was<br />
elegantly refurbished in 2016. Featuring a spacious<br />
balcony with beautiful resort and ocean views.<br />
US$469,000<br />
Turks and Caicos Property is <strong>the</strong> leading<br />
independent real estate firm in <strong>the</strong> Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with <strong>of</strong>fices located at Ocean<br />
Club West Plaza, Ocean Club West Resort<br />
and Le Vele Plaza on <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay Road.<br />
Bernadette’s reputation and success has been<br />
earned over time through her dedication,<br />
enthusiasm and passion for real estate. Her<br />
personal experience as having practiced law<br />
in <strong>the</strong> islands for more than 10 years toge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
with owning and renovating a number <strong>of</strong><br />
properties means she is well-placed to advise<br />
her customers and developers on what to<br />
anticipate in <strong>the</strong> purchasing and construction<br />
process.<br />
Bernadette delights in working in <strong>the</strong> real<br />
estate industry and her humor and energy<br />
make her a pleasure to work with.<br />
Asbury Villa - Leeward<br />
Asbury Villa is undoubtedly <strong>the</strong> most luxurious<br />
canal front villa on Kira Isle. With over 6000 sq. ft.<br />
and 3 bedrooms. Sold in turn key condition with<br />
dock and custom waterfront entertaining space.<br />
US$1,485,000<br />
Barefoot Beach House<br />
Barefoot Beach House is located on over 2 acres<br />
and is just 75 steps from <strong>the</strong> turquoise waters<br />
<strong>of</strong> secluded Long Bay Beach. A site worthy <strong>of</strong><br />
redevelopment as a high-end luxury estate.<br />
US$3,200,000<br />
Please contact Bernadette if you would like<br />
to find out more about owning real estate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.
FIVE DISTINCT VILLAGES<br />
TO CHOOSE FROM<br />
1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village<br />
2017<br />
2017<br />
THE WORLD’S BEST<br />
IS NOW BETTER THAN EVER<br />
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE FAMILY RESORTS<br />
20<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
Beaches, waterparks, pools—<strong>the</strong>re’s<br />
something for everyone.<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />
WHERE EVERYTHING’S<br />
INCLUDED FOR EVERYONE<br />
At Beaches ® Turks & Caicos, everyone can create <strong>the</strong>ir own perfect day. For some, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />
white-sand beaches and calm waters featuring land and water sports. For o<strong>the</strong>rs, it’s <strong>the</strong><br />
awesome 45,000 sq. ft. waterpark with surf simulator. There’s 5-Star Global Gourmet TM<br />
dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars and entertainment —and it’s always<br />
included—tips, taxes and Beaches transfers*, too. We’ve even added trend-setting food trucks,<br />
new live entertainment, and re-styled accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2018</strong> or call 1-800-SANDALS for important terms and conditions.<br />
Hang out with some real<br />
characters at Beaches.<br />
Discover a whole world <strong>of</strong> cuisine with<br />
5-Star Global Gourmet dining.<br />
BEACHES.COM • In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES; In Turks & Caicos: 649-946-8000 or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional
TM/© 2017 Sesame Workshop<br />
THE WORLD’S BEST IS<br />
BETTER<br />
BEACHES VOTED WORLD’S BEST<br />
20<br />
YEARS IN A ROW AT THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS<br />
Beaches ® Turks & Caicos has held <strong>the</strong> top spot at <strong>the</strong> World Travel<br />
Awards for two decades by <strong>of</strong>fering families more <strong>of</strong> everything<br />
on <strong>the</strong> world’s best beach. Every land and water sport, an<br />
awe-inspiring waterpark with surf simulator, 5-Star Global<br />
For more information, visit BEACHES.COM<br />
In <strong>the</strong> U.S. and Canada: 1-800-BEACHES;<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Caribbean: 1-888-BEACHES;<br />
Gourmet TM dining at 21 incredible restaurants, and non-stop bars<br />
and entertainment — always included. And now we’ve added<br />
trend-setting food trucks, new live entertainment, and restyled<br />
accommodations … making <strong>the</strong> World’s Best even better.<br />
In Turks & Caicos:649-946-8000<br />
or call your Travel Pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
TIPS, TAXES AND BEACHES TRANSFERS* INCLUDED<br />
MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS IN THE WORLD
Five Distinct Villages<br />
to Choose From<br />
1. Key West Village 2. Italian Village 3. Caribbean Village 4. French Village 5. Seaside Village<br />
THANEVER<br />
Beaches Turks & Caicos<br />
is on <strong>the</strong> world’s<br />
#1 BEST BEACH<br />
by tripadvisor ®<br />
*Visit www.beaches.com/disclaimers/times<strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>islandssummer<strong>2018</strong>btc or call 1-800-BEACHES for important terms and conditions.
PG advert_Layout 1 5/10/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />
TIMES<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
“Escape to <strong>the</strong> extraordinary.”<br />
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Amy Avenant, Kathy Borsuk, Kelly Currington,<br />
John Galleymore, Dr. Charlene Kozy, B Naqqi Manco,<br />
Marine Conservation Society, Dr. Michael P. Pateman,<br />
Jody Rathgeb, Ben Stubenberg, Paul Wilkerson,<br />
Candianne Williams.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Almay Stock Photo, Amy Avenant, Kelly Currington, Patti<br />
Salerno DesLauriers, Barry Dressel, FortisTCI,<br />
John Galleymore, Tim Hamilton, Dr. Donald H. Keith,<br />
David Kennedy, Agile LeVin, Marta Morton, Fay Ninon,<br />
Justin Okoye, Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Tom Rathgeb,<br />
Maria Rigby, Patricia Saxton, Sea Shepherd Conservation<br />
Society, Ramona Settle, Philip Shearer, SNiP TCI, Wikimedia<br />
Commons, Wikipedia, Candianne Williams.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
DECR, NOAA, Wavey Line Publishing<br />
PRINTING<br />
sou<strong>the</strong>astern, Hialeah, FL<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
published quarterly by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd.<br />
Copyright © <strong>2018</strong> by <strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd. All rights reserved<br />
under Universal and Pan American Copyright Conventions.<br />
No part <strong>of</strong> this publication may be<br />
reproduced without written permission.<br />
Subscriptions $28/year; $32/year for<br />
non-U.S. mailing addresses<br />
Submissions We welcome submission <strong>of</strong> articles or photography, but<br />
assume no responsibility for care and return <strong>of</strong> unsolicited material.<br />
Return postage must accompany material if it is to be returned. In no<br />
event shall any writer or photographer subject this magazine to any<br />
claim for holding fees or damage charges on unsolicited material.<br />
While every care has been taken in <strong>the</strong> compilation and reproduction <strong>of</strong><br />
information contained herein to ensure correctness, such information is<br />
subject to change without notice. The publisher accepts no<br />
responsibility for such alterations or for typographical or o<strong>the</strong>r errors.<br />
WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS 2015 - CARIBBEAN’S LEADING BOUTIQUE HOTEL<br />
TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - HOTEL OF THE YEAR<br />
TCHTA STAR AWARDS 2016 - RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR - GRACE’S COTTAGE<br />
PROVIDENCIALES TCI • US TOLL FREE 1.888.209.5582 • T 649.946.5096<br />
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Business Office<br />
<strong>Times</strong> Publications Ltd., P.O. Box 234,<br />
Lucille Lightbourne Building #1,<br />
Providenciales, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Tel/Fax 649 946 4788<br />
Advertising 649 431 7527<br />
E-mail timespub@tciway.tc<br />
Web: www.timespub.tc<br />
12 www.timespub.tc
eye on <strong>the</strong> sky<br />
RAMONA SETTLE<br />
After Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos in September 2017, <strong>the</strong> Beach<br />
House resort on Providenciales quickly reinstalled its unorthodox wea<strong>the</strong>r station (and<br />
replaced <strong>the</strong> coconut).<br />
Last Call?<br />
Late-season hurricane surprises.<br />
By Paul Wilkerson<br />
By <strong>the</strong> time this issue hits <strong>the</strong> press and is your hands, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> will have surpassed <strong>the</strong><br />
one year anniversary <strong>of</strong> Hurricane Irma’s unwanted arrival. She descended on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> as a catastrophic<br />
Category Five monster that produced tremendous destruction across <strong>the</strong> entire country, leaving many<br />
continuing to make repairs to this day. However, Hurricane Irma severely underestimated <strong>the</strong> spirit and<br />
tenacity <strong>of</strong> all <strong>of</strong> those who call Turks & Caicos home.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 13
In <strong>the</strong> wake <strong>of</strong> such a devastating season, many<br />
Islanders will frequently be checking in online with <strong>the</strong><br />
National Hurricane Center, ever cognizant that <strong>the</strong> next<br />
big one might be on <strong>the</strong> way. Many will wonder if <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>2018</strong> hurricane season will have more challenges in store<br />
for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. As <strong>of</strong> early September, thankfully, <strong>the</strong> season<br />
has been ra<strong>the</strong>r quiet, with only seven named storms,<br />
all <strong>of</strong> which have had no impact on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />
Statistically speaking, nearly 80% <strong>of</strong> all tropical<br />
storms and hurricanes in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin occur between<br />
August 15 and about October 20. So this means we<br />
shouldn’t expect hurricanes to form after late October,<br />
right? Unfortunately, no. In order to understand why hurricanes<br />
do continue to form late in <strong>the</strong> season, we must<br />
take a look at some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> parameters that go into hurricane<br />
formation.<br />
When we are discussing hurricane environment, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are a number <strong>of</strong> things that meteorologists and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
atmospheric scientists are looking for. Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
important information is gleaned from whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> upper<br />
level environment is calm (light winds) or if wind shear is<br />
present, <strong>the</strong> current Sea Surface Temperatures (SSTs) and<br />
current pressure patterns in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic.<br />
In order for low pressure systems to develop and<br />
thrive in a specific environment, it is important that very<br />
little to no wind shear is present. Wind shear effectively<br />
will destroy <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> a hurricane in short order <strong>the</strong> stronger<br />
<strong>the</strong> shear becomes. Think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> a hurricane as<br />
you would <strong>the</strong> exhaust pipe on a car. At <strong>the</strong> surface <strong>of</strong> a<br />
hurricane, warm air is being sucked into <strong>the</strong> middle and<br />
upper levels <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane. Once it reaches <strong>the</strong> top, it is<br />
able to evacuate <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm and <strong>the</strong> process<br />
continues. With a car, <strong>the</strong> exhaust pipe allows gases to<br />
escape <strong>the</strong> engine. When wind shear is present, this effectively<br />
disturbs <strong>the</strong> ability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane to evacuate all<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mass (warm air) it is sucking into <strong>the</strong> storm. Over<br />
time, much like a car, it begins to choke, and eventually<br />
begins to weaken and <strong>the</strong>n to be torn apart. In a car, if<br />
you plug <strong>the</strong> exhaust <strong>the</strong> car will soon die, as it is not able<br />
to get rid <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> by-products <strong>of</strong> combustion.<br />
With regard to Sea Surface Temperatures, <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (and o<strong>the</strong>r nearby islands) enjoy very shallow<br />
banks. This can be a double-edged sword. Shallow<br />
banks contribute to <strong>the</strong> beautiful colors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> waters that<br />
draw tourists from around <strong>the</strong> world. That is <strong>the</strong> good<br />
side. The not-so-good side is that <strong>the</strong>se shallow waters<br />
tend to get very, very warm during <strong>the</strong> summer and into<br />
<strong>the</strong> fall season. Traditionally, <strong>the</strong> water in <strong>the</strong>se areas as<br />
well as <strong>the</strong> Caribbean Sea and Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico continue<br />
Sea surface temperatures play a role in hurricane formation. This map<br />
shows <strong>the</strong> SSTs in <strong>the</strong> region as <strong>of</strong> August 9, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
to have temperatures above 80ºF heading into <strong>the</strong> later<br />
portions <strong>of</strong> hurricane season. Water temperatures above<br />
80ºF are generally needed to sustain tropical activity. This<br />
provides <strong>the</strong> fuel that is needed should low pressure be<br />
in <strong>the</strong> area.<br />
Lastly, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r important criteria is <strong>the</strong> current<br />
pressure situation in <strong>the</strong> region. During <strong>the</strong> later portion<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season, traditionally we will not find storm development<br />
occurring well out in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic Basin (east <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Leeward <strong>Islands</strong>) due to poor atmospheric and water<br />
conditions. Generally we will be looking at <strong>the</strong> Bahamas,<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI and Hispaniola to Puerto Rico, as well as <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean Sea and Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico areas. As we head<br />
into late October and, especially, November, cold fronts<br />
from <strong>the</strong> lower 48 states will move into <strong>the</strong> Caribbean as<br />
<strong>the</strong>y weaken. These frontal systems are essentially a low<br />
pressure trough that meanders in <strong>the</strong> warm waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean as <strong>the</strong>y begin to decay. With warm waters and<br />
light winds, <strong>the</strong>se troughs sometimes can generate low<br />
pressure which can continue to grow and develop into a<br />
tropical system with time.<br />
The reason <strong>the</strong>se are normally few and far between<br />
during <strong>the</strong> later six weeks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season is due to <strong>the</strong><br />
14 www.timespub.tc
These maps show <strong>the</strong> sites where late-season tropical cyclones have originated over <strong>the</strong> years 1851 to 2015.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 15
typical jet stream pattern that sets up as <strong>the</strong> seasons<br />
change. Jet stream energy that remains confined over <strong>the</strong><br />
nor<strong>the</strong>rn U.S. during summer, and allows for generally<br />
calm conditions in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, migrates south during<br />
<strong>the</strong> fall into <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn portions <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />
This introduces more wind shear into <strong>the</strong> Gulf <strong>of</strong> Mexico<br />
and Caribbean, thus <strong>the</strong> lower rate <strong>of</strong> storms in <strong>the</strong> late<br />
season.<br />
So how many late season storms have occurred in<br />
and around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> over <strong>the</strong> years?<br />
Looking at data between 1851–2015, <strong>the</strong> TCI has had<br />
fourteen systems in or near <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> between October<br />
21–31, nine between November 1–10, and four between<br />
November 11–20. That is a total <strong>of</strong> 27 recorded storms<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r over <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> or in very close proximity (storm<br />
centers passing within 150 miles <strong>of</strong> TCI) based on 164<br />
years <strong>of</strong> recorded data. That is quite a few tropical systems.<br />
As you can see, it is very important to maintain vigilance<br />
throughout <strong>the</strong> entire hurricane season. Contrary to<br />
popular belief, hurricanes do form in <strong>the</strong> waning portion<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season. Island citizens must always stay alert to<br />
what Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature is doing.<br />
Fortunately, on August 9, <strong>2018</strong>, as I prepared this article,<br />
forecasters at <strong>the</strong> National Oceanic and Atmospheric<br />
Administration (NOAA) noted that “Conditions in <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean and <strong>the</strong> atmosphere are conspiring to produce a<br />
less active Atlantic hurricane season than initially predicted<br />
in May.” (See chart below.) This seasonal update<br />
takes into account several factors, including that El Niño<br />
is now much more likely to develop with enough strength<br />
to suppress storm development during <strong>the</strong> latter part <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> season. As well, sea surface temperatures across <strong>the</strong><br />
tropical Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea have remained<br />
much cooler than average. A combination <strong>of</strong> stronger<br />
wind shear, drier air and increased stability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />
in <strong>the</strong> region where storms typically develop will<br />
fur<strong>the</strong>r suppress hurricanes. However, NOAA warns that<br />
<strong>the</strong> hurricane season is far from being over and urges<br />
continued preparedness and vigilance.<br />
By remaining wea<strong>the</strong>r-aware, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
avoided any loss <strong>of</strong> life during Hurricane Irma. That alone<br />
was easily one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> miracles <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> year! I wish you<br />
health, happiness and a hurricane-free season.<br />
However, if tropical wea<strong>the</strong>r threatens, you can be<br />
sure I will be following it and alerting Islanders via my<br />
Turks & Caicos Wea<strong>the</strong>r page on Facebook (Turks and<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info). a<br />
Paul Wilkerson is an American meteorologist and tourist<br />
who frequents <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Along with<br />
his wife and two daughters, <strong>the</strong> Wilkersons stay actively<br />
engaged with Islanders and <strong>the</strong>ir families throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
year.<br />
16 www.timespub.tc
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 17
getting to know<br />
Opposite page: People who live close to <strong>the</strong> sea grow up aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir fragility compared to <strong>the</strong> ocean.<br />
Above: North Caican Rocky Higgs is happy to be alive after his ordeal in 1984.<br />
“It makes one to realize how fragile man is,” says Rocky Higgs <strong>of</strong> his experience <strong>of</strong> being lost at sea 34<br />
years ago.<br />
Lost at Sea!<br />
Rocky Higgs recalls his ocean ordeal.<br />
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />
Low-lying islands such as <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos have always been fragile places, and <strong>the</strong> people who live<br />
so close to <strong>the</strong> sea grow up aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir smallness compared to <strong>the</strong> ocean. Sometimes, though, events<br />
bring <strong>the</strong> message home hard. What happened to Rocky in 1984 was one <strong>of</strong> those events.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 19
Rocky Higgs, a North Caicos man, grandson <strong>of</strong> Paul<br />
Robert Eliston Higgs, was 24 years old <strong>the</strong> day he left<br />
from Five Cays, Providenciales, with his 16 year-old<br />
bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat, to dive for conch. They were headed for<br />
Sand Spit beyond French Cay in a blue 14-foot boat when<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir engine blew out. They dropped anchor to deal with<br />
<strong>the</strong> situation when ano<strong>the</strong>r problem arose: A storm that<br />
dragged <strong>the</strong>m onto a shoal and cut <strong>the</strong> anchor line. The<br />
boat was adrift.<br />
“For five days we went with <strong>the</strong> current,” Rocky<br />
relates. “North, <strong>the</strong>n southwest. We were hoping someone<br />
would come and get us.”<br />
The search for <strong>the</strong> two Higgs boys began quickly, and<br />
Rocky recalls seeing planes above, recognizing <strong>the</strong> Coast<br />
Guard and Clifford Gardiner’s Aztec. But <strong>the</strong> searchers<br />
were unable to spot <strong>the</strong> drifters. “The boat was blue and<br />
<strong>the</strong> ocean was blue.” The drifting pair also saw ships<br />
passing by out to sea, but couldn’t get anyone’s attention.<br />
Rocky recognized his responsibility as <strong>the</strong> elder<br />
bro<strong>the</strong>r. “I tried to build up Nat’s hopes, but help never<br />
came. I was frightened. I was always frightened, but I<br />
couldn’t let my younger bro<strong>the</strong>r be frightened. I would<br />
think about pea soup and dough, johnnycake . . . all <strong>the</strong><br />
good things my mo<strong>the</strong>r would make for us. We would cry,<br />
we prayed, we would sing.” Rocky doesn’t quite remember<br />
if <strong>the</strong>y were on <strong>the</strong> ocean for five, six or seven days,<br />
but he knows he was hungry and thirsty. (He lost 69<br />
pounds from <strong>the</strong> experience.)<br />
Finally, <strong>the</strong>y drifted near a shore, which Rocky realized<br />
when <strong>the</strong>y saw first a huge rock “like a turtle” and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n plenty <strong>of</strong> sea grass, which told him land was near.<br />
“My mind was telling me to get on shore,” he says, so <strong>the</strong>y<br />
jumped out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and swam.<br />
They were separated in <strong>the</strong> water, and Rocky lost his<br />
(now very loose) clothing. He searched for several hours<br />
and finally found his bro<strong>the</strong>r, too weak to walk. “I put him<br />
on a piece <strong>of</strong> plywood and left him to get help.” Rocky<br />
believed he might be on Cuba, but <strong>the</strong>y were actually on<br />
Great Inagua.<br />
Weak and hungry, Rocky lost all orientation. “I walk,<br />
I walk, I walk. I never know where I was going.” One day<br />
he wandered into what looked like a fish camp, where he<br />
found four pounds <strong>of</strong> sugar, matches and about 10 to 20<br />
pounds <strong>of</strong> marijuana. “I tried to get high. I made a big fire<br />
and I smoked that weed to comfort myself.” He continued<br />
to wander, looking for both help and for Nat. “I prayed to<br />
die,” he admits.<br />
Rocky Higgs recounts <strong>the</strong> series <strong>of</strong> events that caused him and his bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat to drift to Inagua.<br />
20 www.timespub.tc
Island Organics_Layout 1 8/26/18 9:52 AM Page 1<br />
About eight days later, he saw a one-engine plane<br />
circling. Addled from all his experiences and unsure <strong>of</strong><br />
where he was, he tried to run. But he’d been found by<br />
Joe Smith and Terry Brown <strong>of</strong> Lighthouse Mission Church.<br />
“They put clo<strong>the</strong>s on me and <strong>the</strong>y prayed, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>y<br />
took me to Mat<strong>the</strong>w Town in Great Inagua. I kept asking<br />
for my bro<strong>the</strong>r Nat, saying I couldn’t find him. They tell<br />
me Nat was okay, in <strong>the</strong> hospital.” He’d been found first.<br />
“Oh, <strong>the</strong>y treat us good <strong>the</strong>re,” Rocky recalls <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
people on Great Inagua. He and Nat were nursed to health<br />
and fed well by <strong>the</strong> local residents before <strong>the</strong>y were taken<br />
back to North Caicos, where <strong>the</strong>y arrived 14 days after<br />
having left Five Cays.<br />
North Caicos treated <strong>the</strong> bro<strong>the</strong>rs’ return as a cause<br />
for great celebration. The island’s annual Festarama had<br />
been canceled during <strong>the</strong> search, but now <strong>the</strong>re was<br />
cause for happiness. “People from every walk <strong>of</strong> life were<br />
in my mo<strong>the</strong>r’s yard,” Rocky recalls. “Me and Nat stood<br />
up and my mo<strong>the</strong>r threw her arms around me and said<br />
only <strong>the</strong> Lord would understand how she feel. I love North<br />
Caicos and North Caicos people. They really know how to<br />
share a sorrow. They are a caring, loving people.”<br />
Afterwards, Rocky’s grandfa<strong>the</strong>r encouraged him to<br />
go back out on a boat, telling him that if he didn’t, he<br />
would be a coward. Rocky spent many more years getting<br />
conch and lobster, as well as doing some roaming and<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r work, including migrant farm work in <strong>the</strong> United<br />
States. He has 11 children and sees his survival as a part<br />
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Conrad, left above to mind <strong>the</strong> boat, died <strong>of</strong> a heart<br />
attack. “I don’t think <strong>the</strong> sea likes me very much,” he says,<br />
with only a touch <strong>of</strong> irony. He also acknowledges that <strong>the</strong><br />
bargains made with God in hard circumstances dissipate<br />
easily—his at-sea promise to no longer drink went by <strong>the</strong><br />
wayside when <strong>the</strong> thirsty man was given beer.<br />
Yet <strong>the</strong>re is still amazing grace. We’re not perfect,<br />
and we may never be completely “saved.” But we survive<br />
and keep trying. a<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 21
KELLY CURRINGTON
feature<br />
Opposite page: Sea Shepherd’s MV John Paul DeJoria visited <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in May <strong>2018</strong> as part <strong>of</strong> Operation Good Pirates.<br />
Above: Each crew member has <strong>the</strong>ir own reason as to why <strong>the</strong>y joined Sea Shepherd, but all have a common thread—<strong>the</strong> desire to be a part<br />
<strong>of</strong> something much bigger than <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
As I stand here in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> gazing out over <strong>the</strong> beautiful, pristine turquoise sea, I am<br />
hoping I can preserve this moment in my heart and mind. These memories may be <strong>the</strong> only place to see<br />
such scenes in <strong>the</strong> future if <strong>the</strong> human race does not change its ways.<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> us are aware that <strong>the</strong> oceans, and <strong>the</strong> creatures that live in <strong>the</strong>m, have been under siege for<br />
decades. We, as a species, are very quickly eradicating <strong>the</strong>ir health and existence by both legal and illegal<br />
practices.<br />
The Voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Voiceless<br />
Sea Shepherd fights to conserve marine wildlife.<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 23
The oceans are crucial for our very existence and<br />
survival—sustaining all life on Earth ei<strong>the</strong>r directly or indirectly.<br />
Covering almost 75% <strong>of</strong> our planet, <strong>the</strong>y hold 97%<br />
<strong>of</strong> its water. Over half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> oxygen in <strong>the</strong> atmosphere is<br />
produced by <strong>the</strong> oceans, as well as absorbing <strong>the</strong> most<br />
carbon dioxide from it.<br />
The delicate ecosystems in our oceans must contain<br />
all <strong>the</strong>ir components to function efficiently and effectively.<br />
Every time a piece <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> puzzle is removed, <strong>the</strong><br />
network breaks down a little, and eventually it will stop<br />
functioning, affecting everything and everyone on Earth.<br />
This is where Sea Shepherd comes in. They are an<br />
organization <strong>of</strong> mostly volunteers who get <strong>the</strong> “big picture”<br />
and are on <strong>the</strong> front lines, fighting to save our<br />
planet.<br />
Sea Shepherd Conservation Society (SSCS) is an<br />
international non-pr<strong>of</strong>it, marine wildlife conservation<br />
organization. It was spawned from <strong>the</strong> Earthforce Environment<br />
Society in Vancouver, Canada, which was created<br />
in 1977 by Paul Watson, a former member <strong>of</strong> Greenpeace.<br />
All over <strong>the</strong> world, innocent creatures and natural<br />
resources are being destroyed at <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> humans.<br />
Captain Paul Watson and Sea Shepherd stepped up to <strong>the</strong><br />
challenge <strong>of</strong> fighting <strong>the</strong>se wrongs and protecting those<br />
who cannot protect <strong>the</strong>mselves. Their fleet <strong>of</strong> battleships<br />
and crew around <strong>the</strong> world fight for <strong>the</strong> innocent victims<br />
<strong>of</strong> unfounded beliefs and traditions, overfishing by bottom<br />
trawling, long lines and ghost nets, and media-fed<br />
misconceptions.<br />
In addition to frontline fighting <strong>of</strong> poaching, nets and<br />
illegal practices, Sea Shepherd also goes ashore and does<br />
conservation and educational work with communities to<br />
help promote eco-friendly living and <strong>the</strong> reduction <strong>of</strong> single-use<br />
plastic. Whe<strong>the</strong>r shore-based or on a vessel at<br />
sea, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> volunteers play a critical role in <strong>the</strong> fight.<br />
A project Sea Shepherd started in 2017 is Operation<br />
Good Pirates. In a nutshell, it means having a ship standing<br />
by in <strong>the</strong> event an island is hit by a hurricane so <strong>the</strong>y<br />
can be deployed and arrive in just a couple <strong>of</strong> days. They<br />
partner with UNICEF, <strong>the</strong> Red Cross, o<strong>the</strong>r non-government<br />
organizations and UN-based agencies. This is what<br />
brought <strong>the</strong> Sea Shepherd’s MV John Paul DeJoria (MV<br />
JPD) to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> in <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
The TCI was directly hit by category 5 Hurricane Irma<br />
on September 7, 2017 and two weeks later by category 3<br />
Hurricane Maria. Parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> country were without power<br />
for nearly two months, and those who have cisterns were<br />
without direct access to potable water for just as long.<br />
Just knowing that <strong>the</strong>re is a readied ship on call if such<br />
a tragedy strikes again <strong>of</strong>fers a sense <strong>of</strong> security for <strong>the</strong><br />
people.<br />
I was thrilled when I found out <strong>the</strong> Sea Shepherd<br />
group was here and that I could go onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD<br />
and talk to <strong>the</strong> crew. To stand in <strong>the</strong>ir presence and hear<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir stories and tales <strong>of</strong> what <strong>the</strong>y’ve encountered in<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir journeys is humbling. Each crew member has <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own reason as to why <strong>the</strong>y joined Sea Shepherd, but all<br />
have a common thread—<strong>the</strong> desire to be a part <strong>of</strong> something<br />
much bigger than <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
Walkin May2017_Layout 1 5/28/17 5:45 PM Page 1<br />
They’ve left <strong>the</strong>ir “normal” lives behind and traded<br />
<strong>the</strong>m in for a life <strong>of</strong> hard work in what is sometimes very<br />
harsh conditions, long hours reaching into <strong>the</strong> night, isolation<br />
from loved ones and seeing tragedy and heartache<br />
on a daily basis. But that only seems to push <strong>the</strong>m to<br />
keep fighting and protect <strong>the</strong> voiceless even more.<br />
One young woman touched me <strong>the</strong> most. She is <strong>the</strong><br />
bosun aboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD. Rebecca hails from Canada,<br />
is beautiful, confident and knowledgable, but most<br />
importantly, passionate about <strong>the</strong> oceans and <strong>the</strong> creatures<br />
who inhabit <strong>the</strong>m. She carries herself with a quiet<br />
strength that is connected to her belief in this ongoing<br />
war.<br />
Listening to Rebecca tell me about <strong>the</strong> fight to save<br />
endangered animals brought me to tears more than once.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> questions I asked her was how she deals with<br />
<strong>the</strong> heartache <strong>of</strong> retrieving illegal nets where trapped,<br />
innocent creatures have already lost <strong>the</strong>ir struggle for<br />
life. Her response was simple yet powerful, “You cry for<br />
<strong>the</strong> ones who died, but you have to focus on <strong>the</strong> ones you<br />
save.”<br />
Rebecca has been in dangerous situations in attempts<br />
to stop illegal fishing and poaching. Her vessel’s been<br />
boarded by armed poachers and her tender has been shot<br />
at, yet this does not detour her will to stay on <strong>the</strong> forefront<br />
<strong>of</strong> this fight. She explains that working with <strong>the</strong><br />
local police and following <strong>the</strong> laws helps to ensure that<br />
Sea Shepherd’s work continues without detainment and<br />
provides protection for <strong>the</strong> crew. I am completely in awe<br />
<strong>of</strong> her strength, fortitude and advocacy for <strong>the</strong> continued<br />
fight to protect and save those most in need.<br />
Crew member Samele is totally a pirate—a good<br />
one—both in physical appearance and nature. Originating<br />
from Queensland, Australia, he is scruffy and rough and<br />
lives his beliefs while working onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD and in<br />
his personal life. He is a vegan and advocate for simple,<br />
green living in order to reduce his carbon footprint on<br />
this planet.<br />
Prior to coming onboard <strong>the</strong> MV JPD, he worked<br />
land-based for Sea Shepherd as <strong>the</strong>ir marine debris coordinator<br />
for two years. He started as a deck hand on <strong>the</strong><br />
vessel and has earned his way to assistant bosun and<br />
diver. He also helps with vegan meals onboard for <strong>the</strong><br />
crew. He is completely immersed in <strong>the</strong> war on <strong>the</strong> damage<br />
being done to our planet—both sea and land.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r crew members told similar stories <strong>of</strong> how <strong>the</strong>y<br />
came to volunteer for Sea Shepherd. All wanted to make<br />
a difference in this world and in <strong>the</strong>ir own lives while <strong>the</strong>y<br />
have <strong>the</strong> ability to give <strong>the</strong>ir time.<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 25
COURTESY SEA SHEPHERD CONSERVATION SOCIETY<br />
Sea Shepherd’s diligence and persistent presence and pressure, working alongside <strong>the</strong> Peruvian government, shut down <strong>the</strong> largest fishing<br />
vessel in <strong>the</strong> world. The Damanzaihao, a floating fish factory, was capable <strong>of</strong> killing and processing 547,000 tons <strong>of</strong> fish each year!<br />
Captain Octavio was kind enough to allow <strong>the</strong> crew<br />
to give me a tour <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ship. It was instantly apparent<br />
that this is a warship and not designed for comfort or<br />
pleasure, but soley for function and battle. Just standing<br />
on <strong>the</strong> dock looking at this vessel you can feel <strong>the</strong> stories<br />
that have permeated its “soul.” The paint job alone<br />
gives poachers warning that it means business and will<br />
not back down—it is an impressive ship!<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir most recently won battles was in Peru.<br />
Sea Shepherd’s diligence and persistent presence and<br />
pressure, working alongside <strong>the</strong> Peruvian government,<br />
shut down <strong>the</strong> largest fishing vessel in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
Damanzaihao, a floating fish factory, was capable <strong>of</strong><br />
killing and processing 547,000 TONS <strong>of</strong> fish each year!<br />
Peru is committed to combatting illegal, unreported<br />
and unregulated fishing (IUU), and if successfully convicted<br />
under <strong>the</strong> Peruvian Penal Code, <strong>the</strong> crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Damanzaihao could face three to five years <strong>of</strong> incarceration<br />
and multi-million dollar fines. Sea Shepherd<br />
continues to supply support to Peru to help <strong>the</strong>m combat<br />
IUU and bring an end to “rampant over-exploitation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
oceans.”<br />
Poaching has directly impacted <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. Our reefs and ecosystems are treasured both<br />
in-country and world-wide. Their health and protection<br />
require a constant effort as poachers come to our pristine<br />
and rich waters to steal.<br />
In 2015, 28 poachers were detained and tried for<br />
removing more than 2,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> marine products<br />
from TCI waters. In that catch were a sea turtle, 1,462<br />
pounds <strong>of</strong> lobster (including 69 egg-bearing females),<br />
and 485 pounds <strong>of</strong> parrotfish, which are illegal to fish<br />
at any time. Fourteen unlicensed vessels were confiscated<br />
during this operation. A total <strong>of</strong> approximately 200<br />
pounds <strong>of</strong> poached marine catch along with illegal spear<br />
guns were confiscated in 2016 as well.<br />
But it was on March 16, 2017 that a devastating<br />
blow was delivered to <strong>the</strong> TCI at <strong>the</strong> hands <strong>of</strong> poachers.<br />
The Royal Turks & Caicos Marine Police intercepted <strong>the</strong><br />
Captain Blaze, an illegal Dominican fishing vessel that<br />
was completely loaded down with more than 39,000<br />
pounds <strong>of</strong> poached marine catch, mostly consisting <strong>of</strong><br />
fish, but including sharks and o<strong>the</strong>r vital creatures.<br />
In October 2017, <strong>the</strong> Royal Turks & Caicos Marine Police intercepted<br />
<strong>the</strong> MV Yaniret, <strong>the</strong> boat and fish on board were seized and <strong>the</strong> nine<br />
crew detained for fishing illegally within <strong>the</strong> Fisheries Limits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
26 www.timespub.tc
The 80-foot vessel and its crew <strong>of</strong> 41 Dominican fisherman,<br />
along with a number <strong>of</strong> smaller boats, were towed<br />
to Caicos Marina and Shipyard. The marine products were<br />
unloaded and reportedly distributed to <strong>the</strong> people <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI. The Captain Blaze still sits in <strong>the</strong> marina as a constant<br />
reminder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> war at hand.<br />
In casual conversation with my boyfriend Josh, I asked<br />
him what he thought <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate flag that is flown on all<br />
Sea Shepherd vessels. (I wanted an unbiased perspective<br />
on this.) He said, “It reminds me <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pirate tradition,<br />
only reborn for good.” Our oceans are sensitive organs<br />
that require close attention to <strong>the</strong>ir damage and we need<br />
to be hyper-responsible for stopping and reversing our<br />
negative footprint.<br />
As scuba divers we are advocates for <strong>the</strong> sea, and in<br />
that sense it affects us directly. Yet <strong>the</strong> oceans’ health<br />
and balance also impacts economies all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
Every ocean on this planet needs protection if we are to<br />
survive, and a huge part <strong>of</strong> that protection starts with<br />
educating people on what is happening and how to help.<br />
There are so many ways to be a part <strong>of</strong> this movement<br />
to protect <strong>the</strong> planet and speak for those who<br />
cannot speak. The most obvious is donating money, but<br />
you can do o<strong>the</strong>r things like starting educational projects<br />
in your community. Stopping <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> single-use plastic<br />
such as straws and water bottles is something we can all<br />
do. Speak to your local supermarkets about not using<br />
unnecessary packaging like styr<strong>of</strong>oam, or packaging raw<br />
vegetables (as <strong>the</strong>y naturally have <strong>the</strong>ir own container).<br />
Little changes can have a big impact on our planet.<br />
You can start a local Sea Shepherd chapter in your<br />
neighborhood or island where people work toge<strong>the</strong>r to<br />
learn sustainable fishing practices, respect for <strong>the</strong> ocean<br />
and earth, and <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> reassessing old traditions<br />
that serve no purpose o<strong>the</strong>r than being a “tradition.”<br />
Participating in peaceful protest against captivity<br />
is ano<strong>the</strong>r way to help. Sea Shepherd is a powerful, yet<br />
peaceful, organization which only uses force when absolutely<br />
required.<br />
Education is <strong>the</strong> key to any change. If you would like<br />
to learn more about Sea Shepherd and <strong>the</strong>ir ongoing projects<br />
and how you can help, visit www.seashepherd.org.<br />
I only write about topics that I believe in, and I write<br />
from my heart. Sharing this organization’s story is something<br />
I am passionate about. I am honored to have had<br />
<strong>the</strong> chance. Sea Shepherd is <strong>the</strong> true voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> voiceless!<br />
Thank you for all you do. Defend . . . Conserve . . .<br />
Protect! a<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 27
green pages<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
head <strong>of</strong>fice: church folly, grand turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• astwood street, south caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• national environmental centre, lower bight road, providenciales<br />
parks division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
fisheries division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />
DAVID KENNEDY<br />
A black back and primary fea<strong>the</strong>rs, white shoulder stripe, chestnut face and wings, and brown-streaked throat along with small size help<br />
identify <strong>the</strong> Least Bittern, Ixobrychus exilis.<br />
PATTI SALERNO DESLAURIERS<br />
An Unexpected Landing<br />
Least bittern is a new bird record for TCI.<br />
By B Naqqi Manco, DECR Terrestrial Ecologist<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> are a challenge to reach for many animals, but not for most birds. While we have a known resident<br />
avifauna, we are also visited by both migrants, which visit seasonally, and vagrants, which visit<br />
occasionally.<br />
28 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Sometimes birds are lost, or blown here by storms,<br />
such as <strong>the</strong> three groups <strong>of</strong> scaly-naped pigeons that<br />
showed up after <strong>the</strong> 2017 hurricanes (and have since,<br />
apparently, returned to <strong>the</strong>ir homes on <strong>the</strong> Greater<br />
Antilles). O<strong>the</strong>r times, <strong>the</strong>y are exploring new ranges<br />
and expanding, such as <strong>the</strong> increased numbers <strong>of</strong> purple<br />
gallinules noted over <strong>the</strong> last decade. Some, especially<br />
<strong>the</strong> shyest species, probably visit and are never seen by<br />
any human. Recently, one very shy bird showed up on<br />
North Caicos, a navigational mistake on its behalf, having<br />
landed inside a home in Sandy Point.<br />
On August 19, <strong>2018</strong>, North Caicos residents David<br />
Kennedy and Patti Salerno DesLauriers encountered what<br />
was first thought to be a green heron caught in a screened<br />
porch. However, after review <strong>of</strong> photos it was confirmed<br />
to be a least bittern Ixobrychus exilis, a regionally native<br />
but rare bird related to herons. Bitterns are exceptionally<br />
shy and rarely seen in <strong>the</strong> region.<br />
This is <strong>the</strong> first-ever confirmed sighting <strong>of</strong> a least bittern<br />
in TCI. Terrestrial Ecologist B Naqqi Manco registered<br />
<strong>the</strong> sighting with www.eBird.org and it was confirmed as<br />
a new sighting on that database.<br />
The bird recovered and was released back into its<br />
habitat near <strong>the</strong> Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield Landing<br />
Pond Nature Reserve, one <strong>of</strong> our less-known but important<br />
protected areas. The habitat <strong>of</strong> this protected area is<br />
perfect for least bitterns, with expansive areas <strong>of</strong> mangrove,<br />
buttonwood swamp and uninterrupted cattail<br />
marshes. This secretive little wading bird will be hard<br />
to see again but devoted birdwatchers may be able to<br />
encounter it around where it was first sighted.<br />
Keep your eyes out for new bird sightings. With<br />
effects <strong>of</strong> human development expansion and climate<br />
change considered, we will likely be seeing more new<br />
bird arrivals and unusual migration schedules. You can<br />
register all bird sightings on www.ebird.org.<br />
Available as a mobile app, eBird is, according to its<br />
website, “<strong>the</strong> world’s largest biodiversity-related citizen<br />
science project, with more than 100 million bird sightings<br />
contributed each year by eBirders around <strong>the</strong> world. A<br />
collaborative enterprise with hundreds <strong>of</strong> partner organi-<br />
From top: The scaly-napped pigeon showed up in TCI after <strong>the</strong> 2017<br />
hurricanes. This map outlines <strong>the</strong> Dick Hill Creek and Bellefield<br />
Landing Pond Nature Reserve, one <strong>of</strong> TCI’s less-known, but important<br />
protected areas.<br />
zations, thousands <strong>of</strong> regional experts and hundreds <strong>of</strong><br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> users, eBird is managed by <strong>the</strong> Cornell Lab<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ornithology.” a<br />
MARIA RIGBY<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 29
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
This is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> turtles caught, measured and tagged during a recent outing<br />
with SURFside Ocean Academy, who raises funds for <strong>the</strong> Marine Conservation<br />
Society’s TCI Turtle Project.<br />
Keeping Turtles<br />
Out <strong>of</strong> Trouble<br />
Local watersports company hosts turtle tagging expeditions.<br />
Copy Courtesy Marine Conservation Society (www.mcsuk.org)<br />
Photos By Marta Morton, Harbour Club Villas<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> Turtle Project is working for better management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> marine turtle populations<br />
found in <strong>the</strong> TCI. Through groundbreaking biological and social research, this collaborative project<br />
aims to involve <strong>the</strong> TCI Government and fishermen in <strong>the</strong> management and monitoring <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />
traditional turtle fishery. The project also uses hi-tech satellite tagging <strong>of</strong> green and hawksbill turtles to<br />
follow <strong>the</strong>ir lives at sea to understand <strong>the</strong> full range <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se highly migratory animals and to find out<br />
how best to protect <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Marine turtles have been swimming our oceans for at<br />
least 110 million years, but now man’s activities threaten<br />
turtle populations all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
All species <strong>of</strong> turtle are susceptible to accidental capture<br />
in fishing gear. Turtles become entangled in gill nets<br />
and fish traps set inshore close to <strong>the</strong> nesting beaches.<br />
Throughout <strong>the</strong>ir range, marine turtles are still hunted for<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir eggs, meat and shells. For example, marine turtles<br />
are still legally harvested for <strong>the</strong>ir meat in four <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> five<br />
UK Overseas Territories in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, where green<br />
and hawksbill turtles are particularly targeted. It is not<br />
known if <strong>the</strong>se harvests are sustainable, but marine turtle<br />
nesting populations in <strong>the</strong>se territories are critically low.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> tropics, wherever turtles lay <strong>the</strong>ir eggs <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
a demand for <strong>the</strong>m. In several Caribbean countries, raw<br />
turtle eggs are mixed with alcohol and drunk as an aphrodisiac.<br />
In many parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world, hawksbill turtles are<br />
targeted for <strong>the</strong> scales on <strong>the</strong>ir shells, which are used to<br />
make tortoiseshell. International trade in wild turtle products<br />
is banned by all <strong>the</strong> countries that have signed up<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Convention on International Trade in Endangered<br />
Species (CITES).<br />
Marine turtles depend on a variety <strong>of</strong> habitats at sea,<br />
as well as <strong>the</strong> all-important nesting beaches. Sadly, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
same beaches are under pressure from development,<br />
especially from <strong>the</strong> tourism industry. If beach development<br />
is carried out insensitively it can lead to erosion<br />
<strong>of</strong> sand from <strong>the</strong> beach, as well as <strong>the</strong> disturbance <strong>of</strong><br />
nesting female turtles through increased activity and light<br />
pollution. The same light pollution disorientates emerging<br />
hatchlings, making <strong>the</strong>m head inland to artificial light<br />
sources ra<strong>the</strong>r than out to sea.<br />
Predicted sea-level rise resulting from climate change<br />
will lead to <strong>the</strong> inland movement <strong>of</strong> beaches, a process<br />
known as coastal squeeze. Vital turtle nesting habitat<br />
could be lost if nesting beaches are prevented from<br />
moving inland by any development or beach armouring<br />
behind <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Marine habitat can also be disturbed or destroyed by<br />
development and o<strong>the</strong>r human activities. For example,<br />
sea grass beds and coral reefs are particularly vulnerable<br />
to degradation if exposed to sewage effluent discharged<br />
into <strong>the</strong> sea, and can also be damaged by heavy boat traffic<br />
and extensive use by ba<strong>the</strong>rs, snorkelers and divers.<br />
Turtles can also be killed by entanglement in and<br />
ingestion <strong>of</strong> marine litter, such as discarded fishing gear,<br />
From top: Oliver Dames gives children <strong>the</strong> opportunity to interact<br />
with a wild sea turtle.<br />
Turtles are carefully measured and inspected to collect data and<br />
tagged, if necessary.<br />
SURFside Ocean Academy’s Morgan Luker (at left) allows guests to<br />
have a close-up look at a sea turtle before it is released.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 31
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
plastic bags and balloons. Turtles cannot digest plastic<br />
and if <strong>the</strong>y eat enough to block <strong>the</strong>ir digestive tract <strong>the</strong>y<br />
will die from starvation.<br />
Climate change will affect marine turtle populations<br />
in several ways. For example, turtle nesting beaches<br />
could be inundated if <strong>the</strong>y are prevented from moving<br />
inland as a result <strong>of</strong> sea-level rise; foraging habitat such<br />
as tropical coral reefs and sea grass beds could die <strong>of</strong>f as<br />
a result <strong>of</strong> sea-level rise, water temperature rise and <strong>the</strong><br />
effects <strong>of</strong> increased storminess and rainfall.<br />
If we don’t act now to change <strong>the</strong> way we treat marine<br />
turtles and <strong>the</strong>ir habitat we may lose some populations<br />
forever.<br />
In Providenciales, SURFside Ocean Academy, led by<br />
Morgan Luker, partners with <strong>the</strong> DECR and <strong>the</strong> Marine<br />
Conservation Society (MCSUK) with regular turtle-tagging<br />
expeditions. The academy’s well-trained team <strong>of</strong> local<br />
guides and turtle specialists capture turtles to collect<br />
data, educate guests on sea turtle conservation and fishing<br />
practices in TCI, and release <strong>the</strong> turtles back to <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean. The hawksbill sea turtle is a critically endangered<br />
species, but is legal to fish in TCI waters.<br />
Since 2009, MCSUK has attached satellite transmitters<br />
to 22 green and hawksbill turtles. Suzie, an adult<br />
green turtle, was <strong>the</strong> first turtle to be tagged by <strong>the</strong> project,<br />
and surprised everyone by taking an incredible 6,000<br />
km round trip over nine months before her transmitter<br />
stopped sending data. Since 2011, MCSUK has focused<br />
on tracking sub-adult (“teenage”) green turtles. They have<br />
attached tags to 20 teenage turtles, and are tracking<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se animals now.<br />
Morgan says, “We are so lucky to be able to work with<br />
<strong>the</strong>se endangered animals on our educational sea turtle<br />
tagging programs. Through our initiatives, we can better<br />
understand <strong>the</strong> population and trends <strong>of</strong> resident green<br />
and hawksbill turtles, and see if our current fishing regulations<br />
are sustainable. We have also been able to raise<br />
almost $5,000 towards sea turtle research and education<br />
for MCSUK through our experiences.” a<br />
SURFside Ocean Academy (www.surfsideoceanacademy.com)<br />
is an outdoor adventure company and licensed<br />
school with an emphasis on marine-based activities to<br />
help foster an appreciation for and better understanding<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> environment, people and places <strong>of</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Trash to cash<br />
Following our recent awareness campaign about just<br />
how “Straws Suck!” (<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Island Summer <strong>2018</strong>),<br />
on a return flight from a Sea Turtle Conservation conference,<br />
DECR team members had a look at <strong>the</strong> garbage<br />
floating about and felt inspired! The age-old adage,<br />
“One man’s trash is ano<strong>the</strong>r man’s treasure” came to<br />
mind and with that, our youth Trash to Cash Workshops<br />
were born!<br />
Although not limited to <strong>the</strong> Junior Park Warden<br />
Program (sponsored by <strong>the</strong> Pine Cay Project, and in its<br />
18th year), it proved to be <strong>the</strong> perfect platform to kick<br />
<strong>of</strong>f our first workshop. After a mindful beach clean-up,<br />
where appropriately recyclable items were <strong>of</strong> focus,<br />
wardens thoroughly cleaned <strong>the</strong>ir “trash” to get rid <strong>of</strong><br />
any grit or sticky residue. Training and tips were provided<br />
and tools and <strong>the</strong> necessary equipment supplied<br />
. . . <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>y went!<br />
We encouraged participants to focus on making<br />
appropriate, creative and bespoke pieces from discarded<br />
straws, bottle tops, plastic utensils and bits <strong>of</strong><br />
washed-up rope. In addition, participants were taught<br />
<strong>the</strong> necessary skills needed to put toge<strong>the</strong>r a solid<br />
mini-business plan and how to cost <strong>the</strong>ir items.<br />
Today’s youth tend to be on two extreme sides <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> spectrum: Ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are hyper-sensitive to <strong>the</strong><br />
plight <strong>of</strong> our planet or <strong>the</strong>y are anes<strong>the</strong>tized to <strong>the</strong><br />
impacts <strong>of</strong> cumulative litter strewn in <strong>the</strong> streets. Trash<br />
to Cash opens up a dialogue about how we can reduce,<br />
re-use and recycle, and imagine creative approaches to<br />
fixing a global problem, while allowing participants to<br />
think laterally about <strong>the</strong>ir potential.<br />
The adapted, tailored pieces, hand-made by students,<br />
left us in awe <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir creativity. We are excited<br />
for <strong>the</strong> potential <strong>of</strong> a project such as this inspiring a<br />
generation who will face many environmental, social<br />
and economic challenges directly associated with<br />
climate change and human impacts to our planet.<br />
The DECR looks forward to hosting more <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
workshops in <strong>the</strong> future—and keep an eye out for our<br />
talented participants and <strong>the</strong>ir recycled products at<br />
your local fish-fry event. a<br />
Story & Photos By Amy Avenant,<br />
DECR Environment Outreach Coordinator<br />
Trash to Cash (from top): Step one, collect “trash” from <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Step two, create and decorate. Step three, display <strong>the</strong> beautiful<br />
results !<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 33
PHILIP SHEARER
feature<br />
Opposite page: This is a truly magical Big Blue moment, as captured by photographer Philip Shearer.<br />
Above: Javed Shearer enjoys <strong>the</strong> ocean’s beauty and bounty in a cave on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air.<br />
PHILIP SHEARER<br />
Diving Free<br />
Confronting history and human limits in <strong>the</strong> deep.<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
You are alone with yourself.<br />
Even your body slips away so that it feels like<br />
a speck <strong>of</strong> consciousness that’s floating in <strong>the</strong> abyss.<br />
—William Truebridge, World Champion Freediver<br />
More than sport, freediving transforms <strong>the</strong> men and women who surrender <strong>the</strong>mselves to <strong>the</strong> sea, leaving<br />
behind <strong>the</strong> realm <strong>of</strong> humans and entering a world where <strong>the</strong>y cannot brea<strong>the</strong>. Descending on a single gulp<br />
<strong>of</strong> air, divers hear only <strong>the</strong> sound <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> beating heart. The light dims. Time stops. For a few minutes, but<br />
what feels like forever, divers glide unte<strong>the</strong>red, vulnerable and free. In a heinous turn <strong>of</strong> historic irony,<br />
however, <strong>the</strong> joyful liberation freediving bestows also prompted ruthless subjugation that wiped out one<br />
people and redefined ano<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 35
From time immemorial, human tribes living along<br />
<strong>the</strong> coast around <strong>the</strong> world trained to dive deep and stay<br />
under as long as possible in <strong>the</strong> quest for survival. The<br />
divers took risks and accepted peril to hunt for sustenance<br />
below <strong>the</strong> surface. Diving’s natural elation led to<br />
an addictive joy, where being in <strong>the</strong> water became more<br />
natural than being on land and in time, a way <strong>of</strong> life. The<br />
<strong>the</strong> best divers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se aquatic communities, <strong>the</strong> ones<br />
who took <strong>the</strong> biggest chances and dodged <strong>the</strong> greatest<br />
dangers, became heroes and even spiritual leaders <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
village, looked up to and revered.<br />
Lucayan freedivers<br />
The spectacularly clear turquoise ocean <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> (TCI) has produced its own extraordinary<br />
divers, beginning with <strong>the</strong> Lucayan Indians. More than<br />
2,000 years ago, <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors began a long migration<br />
from <strong>the</strong> river deltas <strong>of</strong> South America, island hopping<br />
<strong>the</strong> 1,000 mile Caribbean archipelago until reaching TCI<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. Before ships arrived from across <strong>the</strong><br />
Atlantic, before <strong>the</strong>ir world vanished and <strong>the</strong>y ceased to<br />
exist, Lucayans lived in <strong>the</strong>ir huts <strong>of</strong> thatch and woven<br />
reed next to <strong>the</strong> same beaches where we now sunba<strong>the</strong>,<br />
ga<strong>the</strong>r for a picnic or watch <strong>the</strong> sunset. They too glided<br />
gracefully through <strong>the</strong> translucent sea, diving for dinner<br />
or just for <strong>the</strong> thrill.<br />
Christopher Columbus, who likely made his first<br />
landfall in Grand Turk in 1492 (See “The First Columbus<br />
Landing,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> 2017) and <strong>the</strong> early<br />
Spanish colonists that followed, took note <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Native<br />
Indians’ exceptional natural ability to hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath for<br />
long periods and dive deep. This observation coincided<br />
with <strong>the</strong> discovery <strong>of</strong> vast beds <strong>of</strong> oysters containing<br />
pearls around <strong>the</strong> islands <strong>of</strong> Margarita and Cubagua <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Venezuela. The poor swimming and diving<br />
abilities <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Europeans at <strong>the</strong> time, however, precluded<br />
retrieving <strong>the</strong> pearl oysters except in <strong>the</strong> shallowest<br />
waters. Driven by <strong>the</strong> prospect <strong>of</strong> quick riches from an<br />
abundance <strong>of</strong> pearls tantalizingly close but beyond reach,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Spanish in 1500 began to raid TCI and <strong>the</strong> Bahamas<br />
for natives to enslave and exploit as freedivers.<br />
In just 20 years, according to TCI historian H. E.<br />
Sadler, some 40,000 Indians had been taken captive and,<br />
along with disease and outright slaughter, were completely<br />
depopulated from <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. The first European<br />
colonizers rationalized <strong>the</strong>ir abduction and enslavement<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Indians by reasoning that as hea<strong>the</strong>ns, not<br />
Christians, <strong>the</strong>y had no souls.<br />
Bartolomé de las Casas, a Spanish priest outraged<br />
at <strong>the</strong> horrific treatment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> native peoples, recorded<br />
<strong>the</strong> astounding brutality <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island raids from what<br />
he had learned. “And verily, as a Spaniard told me, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
ships in <strong>the</strong>se regions could voyage without compass or<br />
chart, merely by following from <strong>the</strong> distance between <strong>the</strong><br />
Lucayos <strong>Islands</strong> (TCI) and Hispaniola, which is sixty or<br />
seventy leagues, <strong>the</strong> trace <strong>of</strong> those Indians’ corpses floating<br />
in <strong>the</strong> sea, corpses that had been cast overboard by<br />
earlier ships.”<br />
Upon arrival in <strong>the</strong> dry, low-lying islands <strong>of</strong> Margarita<br />
and Cubagua surrounded by turquoise sea not unlike TCI,<br />
<strong>the</strong> abductors forced <strong>the</strong> surviving Indians to dive down<br />
for <strong>the</strong> pearl oysters for extended periods without rest.<br />
The demands <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong>ten led to internal hemorrhaging<br />
from ascending too quickly and burst eardrums<br />
causing blood to gush from mouth and nose, as well as<br />
being exposed to shark attacks. On occasion, pirates kidnapped<br />
<strong>the</strong> Indian divers for use in <strong>the</strong>ir own pearl diving<br />
operations.<br />
Las Casas again documented <strong>the</strong> atrocities committed<br />
against <strong>the</strong> native pearl divers in searing reports to <strong>the</strong><br />
Spanish monarchs, Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.<br />
“The tyranny exercised by <strong>the</strong> Spaniards against <strong>the</strong><br />
Indians in <strong>the</strong> work <strong>of</strong> pearl fishing is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
cruel that can be imagined. The pearl fishers dive into <strong>the</strong><br />
sea at a depth <strong>of</strong> five fathoms, and do this from sunrise<br />
to sunset, and remain for many minutes without breathing,<br />
tearing <strong>the</strong> oysters out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir rocky beds where <strong>the</strong><br />
pearls are formed. They come to <strong>the</strong> surface with a netted<br />
bag <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se oysters where a Spanish torturer is waiting<br />
in a canoe or skiff, and if <strong>the</strong> pearl diver shows signs <strong>of</strong><br />
wanting to rest, he is showered with blows.”<br />
In one generation, <strong>the</strong> Spanish and o<strong>the</strong>r Europeans<br />
had sealed <strong>the</strong> extinction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayans by working<br />
<strong>the</strong>m to death. The tragic irony <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lucayan’s demise<br />
near <strong>the</strong> very waters where <strong>the</strong>ir ancestors had begun<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir journey north for a better life is not lost. And <strong>the</strong><br />
hard shiny spheres that so many Native Indians died for,<br />
<strong>the</strong> pretty little pearls that decorated <strong>the</strong> necks and ears<br />
<strong>of</strong> nobility, were hardly more than <strong>the</strong> product <strong>of</strong> scabs<br />
that protect <strong>the</strong> oyster from tapeworms.<br />
African freedivers<br />
With <strong>the</strong> Indians gone, <strong>the</strong> pearl traders looked for<br />
replacements in <strong>the</strong> budding slave trade in Africa.<br />
European explorers had seen and recorded impressive<br />
feats <strong>of</strong> swimming and diving among <strong>the</strong> Africans since<br />
<strong>the</strong> mid-1400s. As with <strong>the</strong> Native Indians, <strong>the</strong> African<br />
divers had spent years adapting <strong>the</strong>ir minds and bodies<br />
36 www.timespub.tc
A freediver-in-training visits <strong>the</strong> collapsed Thunderdome from <strong>the</strong> French TV game show “Le trésor de Pago Pago” that was filmed at Malcolm’s<br />
Road Beach in Providenciales in <strong>the</strong> early 1990s.<br />
AGILE LEVIN<br />
to apnea (breath holding), oxygen deprivation and water<br />
pressure at great depths through repeated and prolonged<br />
immersion.<br />
According to Dr. Kevin Dawson, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> History<br />
at <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong> California, Merced, “Many [African divers]<br />
could dive ninety-plus feet deep. How divers acquired<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir abilities is unclear. But <strong>the</strong> lung capacity and <strong>the</strong><br />
composure required to work at such depths suggest that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y had learned to swim at an early age. When diving,<br />
many held rock weights to help <strong>the</strong>m descend quickly<br />
without expending valuable air.” Although slave traders<br />
did not understand <strong>the</strong> physiological process and<br />
changes, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Dawson notes, <strong>the</strong> traders specifically<br />
targeted ethnic groups <strong>of</strong> Africans for capture in riverine<br />
areas.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> African slave divers arrived in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean,<br />
however, <strong>the</strong> slave masters could not be quite as brutal<br />
as in <strong>the</strong> case <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Native Indians. The premium cost for<br />
African slave divers required better management <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
investment, so divers received more rest time and fewer<br />
beatings. The dependency on slave divers fostered a complex<br />
relationship <strong>of</strong> power and privilege. In one telling<br />
account, slave masters frequently rewarded African slave<br />
divers with a glass <strong>of</strong> wine and a pipe <strong>of</strong> tobacco between<br />
dives. Of course, slaveholders conferred favors to extract<br />
more labor, and in turn more wealth from <strong>the</strong> slave divers.<br />
Historians refer to this as “privileged exploitation”<br />
that gave <strong>the</strong> African slave divers a measure <strong>of</strong> influence<br />
over <strong>the</strong>ir situation that most o<strong>the</strong>r slaves did not have.<br />
In her research <strong>of</strong> enslaved pearl divers <strong>of</strong> 16th<br />
century Caribbean, Dr. Molly A. Warsh, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor at <strong>the</strong><br />
University <strong>of</strong> Pittsburgh, studied <strong>the</strong>ir bargaining power.<br />
She writes, “Although pearl divers performed exceedingly<br />
dangerous work and endured difficult living conditions,<br />
evidence suggests that <strong>the</strong>y none<strong>the</strong>less managed to<br />
exert considerable control over <strong>the</strong>ir own mobility, as well<br />
as a degree <strong>of</strong> control over <strong>the</strong> pearls <strong>the</strong>y were forced<br />
to harvest. The divers frequently kept pearls for <strong>the</strong>mselves,<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r hoarding <strong>the</strong>m or trading <strong>the</strong>m for food<br />
and o<strong>the</strong>r necessities.” In some cases, slave divers were<br />
able to purchase freedom, leveraging <strong>the</strong> very expertise<br />
that prompted <strong>the</strong>ir enslavement, in yet ano<strong>the</strong>r irony, to<br />
secure liberation.<br />
During <strong>the</strong> initial period <strong>of</strong> colonization in <strong>the</strong> first half<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 16th century, Native Indian and African slave divers<br />
generated <strong>the</strong> greatest wealth in <strong>the</strong> Americas, Pr<strong>of</strong>essor<br />
Dawson points out. When <strong>the</strong> Spanish discovered <strong>the</strong><br />
rich silver mines in Bolivia and Mexico in <strong>the</strong> mid-1500s,<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 37
<strong>the</strong> economic focus shifted towards <strong>the</strong> mainland <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Americas. By <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> pearl beds had declined substantially<br />
from over-harvesting, but a new demand for divers<br />
emerged to recover lost cargo from increasing numbers<br />
<strong>of</strong> shipwrecks on <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong>f Florida, <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, and<br />
TCI. In particular, <strong>the</strong> Spanish treasure galleons departing<br />
Havana for Spain laden with gold and silver that wrecked<br />
on <strong>the</strong> reefs created <strong>the</strong> best opportunities for wealth for<br />
salvage wreckers. A few Native Indians had already been<br />
forced into salvage diving, but as <strong>the</strong>y were killed <strong>of</strong>f,<br />
slaveholders called for more African slave divers to do<br />
<strong>the</strong> work. Salvagers would sometimes use diving bells big<br />
enough to fit two men with trapped air to brea<strong>the</strong>. The<br />
bell, suspended from a cable to <strong>the</strong> ship, could be lowered<br />
60 feet (19 meters) below <strong>the</strong> surface. But <strong>the</strong> bell,<br />
just a few feet in diameter, limited <strong>the</strong> range <strong>of</strong> vision, so<br />
salvagers much preferred slave divers who could physically<br />
cover more ocean floor.<br />
When a hurricane sank a Spanish fleet <strong>of</strong> 28 treasure<br />
ships <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Florida Keys in 1622, <strong>the</strong> salvage manager<br />
in Cuba brought 20 slave divers to locate <strong>the</strong> wrecks. At<br />
first, <strong>the</strong> slave divers recovered only a few bars <strong>of</strong> silver,<br />
but not <strong>the</strong> flagship Santa Margarita. Undoubtably worried<br />
that freelance salvagers and pirates closing in would<br />
find <strong>the</strong> ship first, a Spanish <strong>of</strong>ficial <strong>of</strong>fered emancipation<br />
to any slave diver who could find <strong>the</strong> wreck. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
slave divers did in fact discover <strong>the</strong> ship and was freed on<br />
<strong>the</strong> spot. However, such good fortune rarely befell a slave<br />
diver.<br />
Perhaps <strong>the</strong> most prominent use <strong>of</strong> African slave divers<br />
for salvaging was from <strong>the</strong> 1641 wreck <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nuestra<br />
Señora de la Pura y Limpia Concepción on <strong>the</strong> Silver Banks<br />
located between Grand Turk and <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic.<br />
(See “Whose Treasure,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> Summer<br />
<strong>2018</strong>.) William Phips and experienced Bermudian salvagers<br />
organized <strong>the</strong> treasure hunting expeditions, bringing<br />
60 slave divers from Bermuda, Jamaica, and Barbados to<br />
look for <strong>the</strong> wreck. In 1687, <strong>the</strong>y found <strong>the</strong> wreck and<br />
recovered more than 30 tons (15 metric tons) <strong>of</strong> silver<br />
bars, making vast fortunes for Phips and his investors.<br />
African salvage divers, as with pearl divers, fully<br />
understood <strong>the</strong> value <strong>of</strong> such diving abilities and leveraged<br />
<strong>the</strong>m to improve working conditions. The divers<br />
also gained a special status in <strong>the</strong> slave communities and<br />
a measure <strong>of</strong> dignity through pride in work not afforded<br />
to field slaves. Though still considered property by slave<br />
owners, <strong>the</strong> African slave divers were able none<strong>the</strong>less<br />
to accumulate earnings from work that created opportunities<br />
for <strong>the</strong>mselves and <strong>the</strong>ir families within <strong>the</strong><br />
constraints <strong>of</strong> bondage.<br />
Salvage diving by slaves, and later freemen after<br />
Great Britain outlawed slavery in 1834, appears to have<br />
continued through <strong>the</strong> first half <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 19th century in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas and probably TCI. Around this time, local<br />
TCI people formed <strong>the</strong>ir own salvage enterprises to<br />
watch for ships wrecking on <strong>the</strong> surrounding reefs and<br />
recover <strong>the</strong> cargo, possibly using freedivers. Blue Hills on<br />
Providenciales provided a well-known vantage point for<br />
wreckers.<br />
Amazingly, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> divers performed without goggles<br />
or masks, which had yet to be invented. They did<br />
underwater work using only <strong>the</strong>ir naked eyes and may<br />
have developed an ability to “see” underwater. The eye<br />
muscles <strong>of</strong> divers can adapt by constricting <strong>the</strong> pupils<br />
that alter <strong>the</strong> lens shape in turn, thus changing <strong>the</strong> light<br />
refraction for increased visibility. Unfortunately, excessive<br />
exposure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eyes underwater can cause long-term<br />
vision damage when out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water.<br />
Sea nomads and spleens<br />
Putting <strong>the</strong> face in cool water triggers an automatic<br />
response by <strong>the</strong> body called <strong>the</strong> mammalian dive reflex<br />
to lower <strong>the</strong> heart rate and conserve oxygen. Humans<br />
share this reflex with all mammals. Even newborn babies<br />
instinctively know how to hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath when submerged.<br />
During lengthy breath-holding, <strong>the</strong> veins and<br />
arteries in <strong>the</strong> extremities contract to divert more red<br />
blood carrying oxygen to <strong>the</strong> more vital organs—<strong>the</strong><br />
heart, lungs, and brain. Typically, <strong>the</strong> diver feels contractions<br />
in <strong>the</strong> diaphragm, signaling <strong>the</strong>se changes.<br />
As a diver descends deeper, <strong>the</strong> lungs compress to<br />
<strong>the</strong> size <strong>of</strong> fists, but blood continues to rush in. When <strong>the</strong><br />
diver ascends to <strong>the</strong> surface, <strong>the</strong> lungs expand again and<br />
need to be filled with oxygen. The brain detects <strong>the</strong> oxygen<br />
levels dropping and tells <strong>the</strong> spleen, a spongy organ<br />
that recycles red blood cells, to release fresh oxygenated<br />
blood into <strong>the</strong> circulatory system. If <strong>the</strong> oxygen level gets<br />
too low, <strong>the</strong> brain puts <strong>the</strong> body in a sleep mode to save<br />
more energy and what oxygen is left. This can cause <strong>the</strong><br />
diver to black out, usually in <strong>the</strong> last 10 meters (33 feet)<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ascent, and require rescue to bring <strong>the</strong> diver to<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface. Acutely aware, divers train to acclimate and<br />
accept <strong>the</strong> risk as <strong>the</strong> price for a life-changing experience.<br />
Though virtually all humans are capable <strong>of</strong> basic<br />
freediving, a tiny minority <strong>of</strong> humans, it turns out, have<br />
evolved to manage <strong>the</strong> rigors <strong>of</strong> breath-holding for long<br />
periods underwater. In particular, genetic researchers<br />
have found major body differences in <strong>the</strong> Bajau people<br />
38 www.timespub.tc
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P<br />
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HUGH G. O’NEILL<br />
ATTORNEYSN<br />
AT<br />
L AW<br />
P.O. Box 267<br />
Hibernian House<br />
1136 Leeward Highway<br />
Providenciales<br />
Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
B.W.I.<br />
Tel 649-946-4514<br />
Fax 649-946-4955<br />
Email hugh.oneill@hgoneillco.tc<br />
&<br />
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CO. O<br />
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TEL 649.946.4261 TMW@TMWLAW.TC WWW.TWAMARCELINWOLF.COM<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 39
The notable physiological changes among <strong>the</strong> Bajau,<br />
<strong>of</strong> course, raises a compelling question: Did Lucayan and<br />
African slave divers also possess this unique genetic trait<br />
given <strong>the</strong>ir own long history <strong>of</strong> freediving in <strong>the</strong> West<br />
Indies or in Africa? It seems plausible, and some evidence<br />
supports at least body changes in <strong>the</strong> Lucayans.<br />
Dr. Michael Pateman, current director <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos National Museum, examined Lucayan skeletons<br />
recovered on <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Eleu<strong>the</strong>ra in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas and<br />
discovered substantial bone growth on <strong>the</strong> stapes, <strong>the</strong><br />
smallest bones in <strong>the</strong> body that are attached to <strong>the</strong> ear<br />
drums. The constant pressure <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water while diving<br />
creates stress on ear drums and <strong>the</strong> stapes leading to an<br />
increase in bone mass consistent with frequently deep<br />
divers. While some Lucayans manifested permanent physical<br />
modifications, we do not know if it was genetic.<br />
In any case, Lucayans and African slave divers definitively<br />
shaped <strong>the</strong> early history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Americas following<br />
<strong>the</strong> European arrival with demonstrated superhuman<br />
aquatic abilities derived from <strong>the</strong>ir native cultures.<br />
FAY NINON–WWW.OCEANICALCHEMY.COM<br />
Freediving is undergoing somewhat <strong>of</strong> a renaissance in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, as <strong>the</strong> younger generation discovers skills that helped<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir elders earn a living.<br />
living in small coastal villages <strong>of</strong> Indonesia, sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
Philippines and Malaysia that make <strong>the</strong>m truly natural<br />
divers different from <strong>the</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> us. For more than 1,000<br />
years, <strong>the</strong> Bajau have depended on <strong>the</strong> sea for <strong>the</strong>ir livelihood<br />
and spend most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> workday in and under <strong>the</strong><br />
water hunting fish with spear guns. These “Sea Nomads,”<br />
a poor, marginalized ethnic group native to Sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
Asia, can hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath and dive to 100 feet using only<br />
wooden masks with a glass plate and sometimes a plank<br />
<strong>of</strong> wood as a fin and hold <strong>the</strong>ir breath for an astounding<br />
10 minutes.<br />
In 2017, Melissa Llardo from <strong>the</strong> University <strong>of</strong><br />
Copenhagen measured <strong>the</strong> spleen sizes <strong>of</strong> Bajau and<br />
nearby populations <strong>of</strong> non-Bajau people. Using an ultrasound<br />
machine, she found that all 59 Bajau people she<br />
measured had spleens 50% larger than <strong>the</strong> 43 spleens she<br />
measured <strong>of</strong> non-Bajau people. The larger spleen served<br />
to store more oxygenated red blood cells in Bajau divers<br />
than average divers. In this way, <strong>the</strong> spleen becomes a<br />
biological oxygen tank that allows divers to stay underwater<br />
for much longer periods. Even more astonishing, Ms.<br />
Llardo found that divers as well as non-divers among <strong>the</strong><br />
Bajau people had <strong>the</strong> same 50% larger spleen, indicating<br />
a likely genetic mutation just from being related to <strong>the</strong><br />
Bajau diving communities.<br />
Freediving’s renaissance in TCI<br />
A few fishermen in TCI and o<strong>the</strong>r West Indies islands<br />
retained freediving skills over <strong>the</strong> generations, but this<br />
was <strong>the</strong> exception not <strong>the</strong> norm. The art <strong>of</strong> freediving,<br />
as well as swimming, eroded considerably in <strong>the</strong> region<br />
over <strong>the</strong> past two centuries, even though having survived<br />
in scattered pockets. The reason remains uncertain.<br />
However, <strong>the</strong> freediving prowess first brought from Africa<br />
five centuries ago saw a revival in <strong>the</strong> 1950s and 1960s<br />
when confident, enterprising TCI fishermen strapped on<br />
masks and fins and jumped into <strong>the</strong> water. Until <strong>the</strong>n,<br />
fishermen usually collected sponges using ten foot (three<br />
meter) poles with hooks and glass boxes to see clearly<br />
underwater. When <strong>the</strong> sponge industry collapsed, <strong>the</strong><br />
fishermen applied <strong>the</strong> pole and hook technique to snaring<br />
conch, but <strong>the</strong> practice proved too slow. So, many<br />
local fisherman simply taught <strong>the</strong>mselves to freedive to<br />
collect conch more efficiently and learned to spearfish<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir make-shift spearguns.<br />
One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first to switch from collecting sponges<br />
by poles and hooks to freediving and spear fishing was<br />
Jeffrey Handfield from <strong>the</strong> Belmont part <strong>of</strong> Bottle Creek,<br />
North Caicos. Back in <strong>the</strong> day, <strong>the</strong> well-known Handfield,<br />
now 87, would take his boat all over TCI to dive deep for<br />
<strong>the</strong> biggest and best fish. When TCI got its first major<br />
bank, Barclays, in 1981, Handfield and o<strong>the</strong>r fishermen<br />
saw no need to open an account. As Handfield explained,<br />
“I only got two banks, Ambergis Cay Bank and French<br />
40 www.timespub.tc
Cay Bank,” <strong>the</strong>reby summing up <strong>the</strong> local banks that mattered.<br />
Fisherman William “JR” Delancy, ano<strong>the</strong>r self-taught<br />
freediver from Grand Turk, learned <strong>the</strong> skill as a teenager<br />
in <strong>the</strong> early 1960s. He and his friends would blow<br />
up tire tubes with <strong>the</strong>ir mouths and put a net or bag in<br />
<strong>the</strong> center. They floated <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f Front Street to <strong>the</strong> wall<br />
dropping into <strong>the</strong> 7,000-foot trench and speargunned for<br />
fish. After meeting and marrying beloved schoolteacher<br />
Henrietta Gardiner in Bottle Creek in 1966, JR decided to<br />
stay in North Caicos and pass on his freediving skills to<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r island fisherman.<br />
On one <strong>of</strong> his early days on <strong>the</strong> North Caicos barrier<br />
reef, Delancy, along with his friend and fellow<br />
freediver Albert Higgs, dove down deep and speared a<br />
giant Atlantic goliath grouper (also called jewfish). The<br />
goliath grouper, which is known to attack divers as well<br />
as sharks, fought hard and pulled Delancy through <strong>the</strong><br />
water while he held his breath in a classic contest <strong>of</strong> man<br />
against beast. Delancy hung on and refused surrender.<br />
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E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />
Market Street, Grand Turk<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />
South Caicos boat captain Timothy Hamilton (far right) enjoys a drink<br />
with famous freediver Jacques Mayol (at left) in <strong>the</strong> 1970s. Hamilton, a<br />
talented diver, showed Mayol <strong>the</strong> best places to dive in South Caicos.<br />
After a long struggle, <strong>the</strong> huge fish finally gave up, but<br />
weighing around 500 pounds, was too big to put in <strong>the</strong><br />
boat. So <strong>the</strong> fishermen had to tow <strong>the</strong> fish back to Bottle<br />
Creek. (Shades <strong>of</strong> Moby Dick and The Old Man and <strong>the</strong><br />
Sea, but with a happier ending!) Word got out quickly,<br />
and everyone in <strong>the</strong> settlement, including schoolkids let<br />
out early, showed up at <strong>the</strong> dock to witness <strong>the</strong> largest<br />
fish anyone had seen. In <strong>the</strong> festive atmosphere, Delancy<br />
gladly shared pieces <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> huge fish with anyone who<br />
wanted some to take home for dinner.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 1970s and 1980s, world class freedivers<br />
Jacques Mayol from France and later Umberto Pelizzari<br />
from Italy made <strong>the</strong>ir way to <strong>the</strong> warm transparent waters<br />
<strong>of</strong> TCI. Both loved <strong>the</strong> easygoing ambiance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 41
Freediver Samantha Kildegaard, <strong>of</strong> Free Dive With Me,<br />
practices her graceful craft.<br />
Do you know what you’re supposed to do to meet<br />
a mermaid? You go down to <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea,<br />
where <strong>the</strong> water isn’t even blue anymore, where <strong>the</strong><br />
sky is only a memory, and you float <strong>the</strong>re, in <strong>the</strong><br />
silence. And you stay <strong>the</strong>re, and you decide that you’ll<br />
die for <strong>the</strong>m. Only <strong>the</strong>n do <strong>the</strong>y start coming out. They<br />
come, and <strong>the</strong>y greet you, and <strong>the</strong>y judge <strong>the</strong> love you<br />
have for <strong>the</strong>m. If it’s sincere, if it’s pure, <strong>the</strong>y’ll be<br />
with you, and take you away forever.<br />
—Jacques Mayol, World Champion Freediver<br />
AGILE LEVIN<br />
before resorts and paved roads, when everyone knew<br />
everybody and people had time. For a sport where total<br />
calm forms <strong>the</strong> most critical element, <strong>the</strong> laid-back vibe<br />
<strong>of</strong> TCI suited <strong>the</strong>m perfectly.<br />
These larger than life, yet humble men in <strong>the</strong>ir prime,<br />
gladly shared <strong>the</strong>ir gentle gusto, making many friends.<br />
Pushing <strong>the</strong>mselves to <strong>the</strong> limits <strong>of</strong> human endurance,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y daily straddled <strong>the</strong> divide between life and death.<br />
Confronting <strong>the</strong> extremes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> deep gave <strong>the</strong>m a sense<br />
<strong>of</strong> supreme humility. From time to time, Mayol and<br />
Pelizzari hitched rides on scuba boats going out to <strong>the</strong><br />
walls. On such occasions, <strong>the</strong> daring divers would lower<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves over <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat and surprise <strong>the</strong><br />
scuba divers by descending far deeper without a tank.<br />
Undulating through <strong>the</strong> blue in <strong>the</strong>ir long fins alongside<br />
rays and sharks, <strong>the</strong>y departed <strong>the</strong> world above, and<br />
became creatures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Mayol had already been <strong>the</strong> first human to break 100<br />
meters (330 feet) in 1976 at <strong>the</strong> age <strong>of</strong> 49 in <strong>the</strong> “No<br />
Limits” discipline, as well as o<strong>the</strong>r world records. In No<br />
Limits freediving, <strong>the</strong> diver holds on or attaches to a ballast<br />
weight, known as a sled, connected to a cable. The<br />
diver controls <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> descent <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> weight pulling<br />
him down, but tries to go as fast as he can “clear” <strong>the</strong><br />
ears in response to <strong>the</strong> change in pressure, typically 3–4<br />
meters (10–13 feet) per second. The idea is to go as deep<br />
as possible on a breath <strong>of</strong> air and <strong>the</strong>n use a balloon<br />
or o<strong>the</strong>r inflatable device to return to <strong>the</strong> surface before<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
unning out <strong>of</strong> oxygen. Freedivers consider No Limits to<br />
be <strong>the</strong> most extreme <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eight categories <strong>of</strong> freediving<br />
and <strong>the</strong> most dangerous.<br />
Mayol liked TCI so much that he bought a house on<br />
South Caicos in <strong>the</strong> 1970s and became great friends and<br />
dive buddies with South Caicos mariner and boat captain<br />
Timothy Hamilton. Hamilton, already a self-taught and<br />
quite adept freediver, took Mayol out to Ambergis Cay,<br />
Fish Cay and Long Cay for deep, clearwater challenges,<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten encountering dolphins along <strong>the</strong> way. “Before<br />
descending,” Hamilton related, “Jackie would start meditating,<br />
like he was praying, and be completely at peace.”<br />
Hamilton and his wife Vonn regularly invited Mayol over<br />
for dinner, sometimes with his freediving friends who<br />
came from all over <strong>the</strong> world to share <strong>the</strong> diving and tranquility<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Mayol would break ano<strong>the</strong>r No Limits world record at<br />
age 59 by descending 105 meters (346 feet) and would<br />
go on to co-produce a film on his life, “Le Grand Bleu (The<br />
Big Blue)” in 1988, and write a book, Homo Delphinus:<br />
The Dolphin Within Man, published in 2000.<br />
When Pelizzari arrived in Provo in <strong>the</strong> 1980s, he<br />
had yet to begin his streak <strong>of</strong> breaking world records.<br />
He became good friends with Dean Bernal, who <strong>of</strong>fered<br />
to introduce him to Jo Jo, <strong>the</strong> human-friendly dolphin <strong>of</strong><br />
Grace Bay. Both men motored into Grace Bay on Bernal’s<br />
boat, and when <strong>the</strong>y arrived out in <strong>the</strong> deep, Dean used<br />
a special signal to “call” Jo Jo. At first, <strong>the</strong> dolphin wasn’t<br />
interested in Pelizzari, but Bernal told him to be patient<br />
and just ignore him while doing his training dives. Soon<br />
enough, Jo Jo warmed up, and <strong>the</strong> two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m dived<br />
down deep toge<strong>the</strong>r, becoming fast friends. Jo Jo became<br />
very protective <strong>of</strong> Pelizzari, frequently shunting away<br />
barracudas, sharks and turtles with his nostrum (nose),<br />
possibly out <strong>of</strong> jealousy too. Afterwards, Jo Jo would look<br />
at Pelizzari through his mask, smiling with satisfaction<br />
and pride.<br />
Bernal had warned Pelizzari never to feed Jo Jo so <strong>the</strong><br />
relationship could remain purely one <strong>of</strong> friendship. But a<br />
few days before leaving TCI, Pelizzari broke <strong>the</strong> rule and<br />
cracked open a lobster he had found and gave it to Jo Jo<br />
as thanks for <strong>the</strong> wonderful experiences. Jo Jo happily ate<br />
<strong>the</strong> lobster and <strong>the</strong>n nudged Pelizzari to follow him far<br />
down to a cave bristling with lobsters, apparently in hopes<br />
that his human friend could pull out more for him. Jo Jo<br />
sensed Pelizzari’s imminent departure, and on <strong>the</strong> last<br />
dive, kept pushing Pelizzari away from <strong>the</strong> boat in hopes<br />
<strong>of</strong> keeping him <strong>the</strong>re in <strong>the</strong> sea, an intense affection that<br />
filled <strong>the</strong> great freediver with “indescribable happiness.”<br />
35Years<br />
Assisting domestic and international clients for 35 years<br />
Tel + 1 649 946 4602 • Fax + 1 649 946 4848<br />
Email reception@savory-co.com • Website www.savory-co.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 43
JUSTIN OKOYE–WWW.OCEANICALCHEMY.COM<br />
Freediving is all about exploring <strong>the</strong> TCI’s magnificent underwater<br />
scenery on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air, without using scuba tanks.<br />
In 2002, Tanya Streeter from <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong><br />
came to Providenciales to attempt a new “No Limits”<br />
world record. (See “Free <strong>Fall</strong>ing,” <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Winter 2002/03.) Streeter had already broken nine world<br />
records in different freediving disciplines. Supported by<br />
Big Blue and o<strong>the</strong>r safety divers, Streeter brought herself<br />
into a relaxed state <strong>of</strong> mind and gulped in as much air<br />
as her lungs could hold before letting <strong>the</strong> sled pull her<br />
into <strong>the</strong> abyss just beyond <strong>the</strong> reefs <strong>of</strong> Grace Bay. As her<br />
heart rate slowed to just 10 beats per minute, she defied<br />
all her male and female rivals and went down to a new<br />
world record <strong>of</strong> 160 meters (525 feet). [The current No<br />
Limits record is 253.2 meters (830.8 feet) set in 2012 by<br />
Austrian diver Herbert Nitsch.]<br />
Streeter returned to TCI <strong>the</strong> following year and broke<br />
<strong>the</strong> world record for men and women in <strong>the</strong> “Variable<br />
Weight” discipline, diving to 400 feet (122 meters). In this<br />
category, divers descend on a sled, but must return to<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface under <strong>the</strong>ir own power. She also broke <strong>the</strong><br />
world record for Constant Weight No Fins, <strong>the</strong> most difficult<br />
discipline done without aids, only muscle power,<br />
descending to 115 feet (35 meters). Streeter dispels <strong>the</strong><br />
death-defying image <strong>of</strong> freediving saying, “People who<br />
think that freediving is life-threatening misunderstand<br />
<strong>the</strong> sport. It’s entirely life-affirming.”<br />
Philip Shearer and Mark Parrish, excellent freedivers<br />
in <strong>the</strong>ir own right, started Big Blue (named after Mayol’s<br />
movie “The Big Blue”) in 1997 as an eco-friendly watersports<br />
operation that embraced <strong>the</strong> purity <strong>of</strong> freediving.<br />
They taught snorkeling guests <strong>the</strong> basic techniques <strong>of</strong><br />
freediving, such as how to relax and descend easily from<br />
<strong>the</strong> surface, so <strong>the</strong>y could enjoy <strong>the</strong> reef up close, as well<br />
as those magical encounters with dolphins and whales.<br />
On Big Blue’s staff, Captain Brent Forbes from North<br />
Caicos has become an outstanding freediver as well, and<br />
true heir <strong>of</strong> TCI’s freediving revival more than a half century<br />
ago.<br />
TCI has its own pr<strong>of</strong>essional freediver, Samantha<br />
Kildegaard, who is committed to teach as many people<br />
as possible in <strong>the</strong> TCI community, as well as visitors, <strong>the</strong><br />
joy <strong>of</strong> diving down on a single breath <strong>of</strong> air. “TCI is easily<br />
one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top places on <strong>the</strong> planet for freediving with<br />
exceptional water visibility, depth and marine life,” says<br />
<strong>the</strong> Argentinian-born Kildegaard, with a passion for protecting<br />
<strong>the</strong> ocean. “When I am down <strong>the</strong>re, I am at peace.<br />
I am nobody and everybody at <strong>the</strong> same time, so much so<br />
that I want to stay in <strong>the</strong> sea forever.” Kildegaard teaches<br />
all levels <strong>of</strong> freediving and organizes freedive camps to<br />
encounter whales during <strong>the</strong> season.<br />
Almost anyone at any age can learn to freedive, dispelling<br />
<strong>the</strong> notion <strong>of</strong> an extreme, exotic sport meant for<br />
an exceptional few. A diver needs only to mentally prepare,<br />
equalize pressure in <strong>the</strong> ears and pack air into <strong>the</strong><br />
lungs to sever <strong>the</strong> bonds <strong>of</strong> our terrestrial home and float<br />
freely through an oceanic cosmos.<br />
The paradox <strong>of</strong> freedivers once sold into slavery and<br />
exploited for ephemeral riches, however, should give<br />
us pause. They, too, felt <strong>the</strong> euphoria <strong>of</strong> relinquishing<br />
earthly shackles for freedom in <strong>the</strong> sea. For today’s divers<br />
who find serenity below <strong>the</strong> surface, and for anyone who<br />
cares, <strong>the</strong> liberty denied to those divers long ago should<br />
serve to remind that tranquility in <strong>the</strong> deep extends<br />
beyond <strong>the</strong> self, even through <strong>the</strong> ages. a<br />
Ben Stubenberg is a contributing writer to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> with a passion for TCI history. An avid ocean man,<br />
he is co-founder <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sports/adventure tour company<br />
Caicu Naniki and <strong>the</strong> annual “Race for <strong>the</strong> Conch” Eco-<br />
Seaswim. Ben can be reached at ben@caicunaniki.com.<br />
44 www.timespub.tc
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<strong>the</strong> sporting life<br />
Fishing has always been a way <strong>of</strong> life in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, especially on <strong>the</strong> “Big South.” Thanks to an exciting new business venture<br />
<strong>the</strong>re, you can now fish from a specially outfitted kayak.<br />
Gone Fishin’!<br />
This new South Caicos venture combines kayaking and fishing.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are, admittedly, all about <strong>the</strong> water, and it is <strong>of</strong>ten said that you need to be<br />
ei<strong>the</strong>r “on it, or looking at it” in order to live here year-round.<br />
Traditionally, our amazing ocean has been <strong>the</strong> mainstay <strong>of</strong> basic survival for generations <strong>of</strong> Islanders,<br />
and while some commercial fishing still takes place, <strong>the</strong> majority is now sport fishing and recreation.<br />
The type <strong>of</strong> fishing on <strong>of</strong>fer varies, from bottom fishing and bonefishing through to big game fishing.<br />
However, in most cases <strong>the</strong> use <strong>of</strong> a boat is paramount and that can add a lot to <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> an exciting<br />
day out on <strong>the</strong> water.<br />
Story & Photos By TCI Explorer John Galleymore<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 47
So it was <strong>of</strong> great interest when I was told about a<br />
new fishing company starting in South Caicos that <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
nearly all types <strong>of</strong> fishing—not from a boat, but from<br />
individual kayaks. The claim was that it was possible to<br />
bottom-fish over coral heads for snapper or head out to<br />
“The Wall” and fish for mahi mahi and tuna!<br />
This I not only had to see, but experience myself, so<br />
plans were made and flights were booked, and just a few<br />
days later I was en-route to <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.<br />
After a 25-minute flight I touched down on <strong>the</strong> “Big South”<br />
and was met by Darik Riggs, along with his business partners<br />
Mike and Debbie Edwards. We set <strong>of</strong>f for <strong>the</strong> East Bay<br />
Resort, which was to be my base for <strong>the</strong> next few days. I<br />
was eager to hear more about this intriguing venture.<br />
Over a cold beer, I had to ask Darik <strong>the</strong> obvious question<br />
that had been bugging me since I left Providenciales:<br />
“How in <strong>the</strong> world do I paddle a kayak and hold a rod and<br />
fish all at <strong>the</strong> same time?” With a knowing smile, Darik<br />
informs me that <strong>the</strong>re are no paddles! The kayaks use<br />
a new form <strong>of</strong> technology called <strong>the</strong> MIRAGE system.<br />
Patented by Hobie and based on <strong>the</strong> natural wing motions<br />
<strong>of</strong> a swimming penguin, it is ultra-efficient and with a<br />
few simple leg strokes you can propel through <strong>the</strong> water<br />
totally hands free.<br />
I’m keen to see more, so we set <strong>of</strong>f into town where<br />
we find a local contractor busy working on what will be<br />
<strong>the</strong> shop/<strong>of</strong>fice <strong>of</strong> Blue Waters Kayak Fishing. It’s here<br />
that as I chat with Mike and Debbie, I get my first sense<br />
<strong>of</strong> what this operation is really about—much more than<br />
The MIRAGE Paddle system<br />
features two rubber fins that<br />
are pedaled like a bike, leaving<br />
your hands free to fish.<br />
just catching fish and making money. They have both<br />
visited <strong>the</strong> TCI numerous times from <strong>the</strong>ir home in Cocoa<br />
Beach, Florida and like so many folks before <strong>the</strong>m, fell in<br />
love with <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong> people. This was taken to a<br />
new level when <strong>the</strong>y felt <strong>the</strong>y would like to contribute to<br />
<strong>the</strong> South Caicos community, helping whoever <strong>the</strong>y could<br />
along <strong>the</strong> way. Fate led <strong>the</strong>m to meet like-minded Darik,<br />
a ten-year TCI resident whose connections to South go<br />
way back. In fact, <strong>the</strong> old house that’s being converted<br />
into <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fice belongs to his wife and her family, and it’s<br />
great to see it getting a new lease on life.<br />
Given Darik’s passion for fishing and <strong>the</strong> Edwards’s<br />
love <strong>of</strong> South Caicos, a plan was made to form Blue<br />
Waters Kayak Fishing, with <strong>the</strong> mutual understanding<br />
that it would benefit <strong>the</strong> community wherever possible.<br />
For instance, ra<strong>the</strong>r than source workers from <strong>the</strong> huge<br />
Sailrock development nearby, for <strong>the</strong> crew currently working<br />
on <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> Darik chooses to use local guys who are<br />
good with <strong>the</strong>ir hands and keen to work hard. He knows<br />
<strong>the</strong>m all, and <strong>the</strong>ir families, personally.<br />
The group is getting sorted out to start kayak fishing on <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
tip <strong>of</strong> South Caicos.<br />
48 www.timespub.tc
Ferry <strong>Fall</strong> 17_Layout 1 8/22/17 12:52 PM Page 1<br />
The next morning, we set <strong>of</strong>f for <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn tip<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island where we find <strong>the</strong> team has delivered <strong>the</strong><br />
kayaks and is awaiting our arrival. I now see <strong>the</strong> MIRAGE<br />
Paddle system up close—it’s basically two rubber fins<br />
that drop down through a hole in <strong>the</strong> hull and are pedaled<br />
like a bike. I’m still doubtful it will get me moving.<br />
Our guide Keyton sets us up with bait, fishing rods<br />
and each kayak has a cooler stocked with cold drinks.<br />
Keyton is a charming 28 year-old South Caicos guy, and<br />
once again I see this new company using <strong>the</strong> community<br />
as its basis for future success. With a simple shove <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> bank and a few pedal strokes I’m effortlessly cruising<br />
along. I’m amazed at <strong>the</strong> ease and <strong>the</strong> speed with which<br />
I can travel.<br />
Our group consists <strong>of</strong> me, Keyton and Mike, each in<br />
individual kayaks, and Darik in a two-person craft that he<br />
is sharing with his eight year-old son Auren, who seems<br />
more intent on fishing than paddling. However, Darik<br />
seems content to do <strong>the</strong> leg work and I realize this is a<br />
great trip for everyone to enjoy, from pr<strong>of</strong>essional fishermen<br />
to families.<br />
We head out into <strong>the</strong> calm waters and Keyton sets our<br />
hooks with bait. We can easily pedal-paddle a good speed<br />
while effortlessly casting and fishing. Darik calls to head<br />
through <strong>the</strong> channel and into <strong>the</strong> open ocean. I can see<br />
some swells and surf but am reassured that <strong>the</strong> craft are<br />
so stable you can stand up and fish from <strong>the</strong>m. This turns<br />
out to be true, as <strong>the</strong> swell, surf and even wake from a<br />
passing boat have no effect on <strong>the</strong> kayak’s stability.<br />
I soon hook what I think to be a big grouper, but after<br />
a ten minute fight it breaks free. We continue to get bites<br />
all morning but <strong>the</strong> actual fish in <strong>the</strong> boat remain elusive.<br />
We head to a deserted cay, easily reached as <strong>the</strong> kayaks<br />
love shallow water, and relax on <strong>the</strong> beach for a while. On<br />
our return, Mike spots a sand bar and decides to fly-fish.<br />
Again, <strong>the</strong> kayak’s stability makes it easy to get in and<br />
out <strong>of</strong>, so this is a bonefishing dream.<br />
After lunch back at <strong>the</strong> resort, we plan our afternoon<br />
excursion. The team has relocated <strong>the</strong> kayaks to <strong>the</strong><br />
marina and we set <strong>of</strong>f for a snorkeling adventure. It’s an<br />
easy paddle out to <strong>the</strong> reef, just in front <strong>of</strong> stunning Long<br />
Cay. We tie up to <strong>the</strong> marker buoy, kit ourselves with<br />
masks and snorkels and in we go.<br />
The reef is in surprisingly good condition, considering<br />
last year’s double hurricanes that came through<br />
South Caicos so catastrophically. In no time at all we are<br />
surrounded by hundreds <strong>of</strong> reef fish and spot massive<br />
rays resting on <strong>the</strong> sea floor. We snorkel for a while with<br />
a turtle for company, <strong>the</strong>n easily climb back aboard our<br />
* *<br />
Temporary suspension PROVO NORTH 12.30pm & 1.30pm Sept 1st to Oct 31st<br />
*<br />
Resumes Nov 1st<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 49
Two-person pedal kayaks are ideal for family adventures!<br />
Below right: Is Darik Riggs’s catch bigger than <strong>the</strong> boat?<br />
kayaks. We head towards an area rich in s<strong>of</strong>t corals and<br />
huge sea fans. I decide to film with my GoPro and ask<br />
Keyton if he can tow me behind his kayak. It’s a great<br />
way to see large areas <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ocean topography, but boats<br />
tend to be too fast and your mask <strong>of</strong>ten gets pushed <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
The kayaks are perfect for this—it feels like you’re flying<br />
along above <strong>the</strong> seabed with no effort at all, and <strong>the</strong> person<br />
paddling does not feel any extra strain.<br />
We reconvene back at <strong>the</strong> hotel for drinks and dinner,<br />
and to discuss our day and <strong>the</strong> future <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> business.<br />
Darik tells me <strong>of</strong> plans for <strong>the</strong> store in town. Not only will<br />
it be a base for <strong>the</strong> fishing operation, but eventually he<br />
plans to open a small fish grill restaurant where clients<br />
can taste <strong>the</strong>ir catch and local townspeople can meet, eat<br />
and have a cold beer. He’s keen to point out that this eatery<br />
will complement—not compete with—those already<br />
operating. There are also plans to extend <strong>the</strong> fleet <strong>of</strong> kayaks<br />
and adorn each with a Bible verse. Darik’s choice?<br />
James 1:5 “If any <strong>of</strong> you lacks wisdom, you should ask<br />
God, who gives generously to all without finding fault,<br />
and it will be given to you.”<br />
It’s <strong>the</strong> team’s plan to mentor and train Keyton, as<br />
<strong>the</strong>y see his huge potential to be a great guide and asset<br />
to <strong>the</strong> business. Once again, I think how easily an experienced<br />
fisherman/guide could have been outsourced, but<br />
this team wants to start at grassroots and grow toge<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
a refreshing attitude that will surely benefit all involved.<br />
We discuss <strong>the</strong> fishing currently on <strong>of</strong>fer in<br />
Providenciales, and agree that whe<strong>the</strong>r it’s bonefishing,<br />
reef fishing or <strong>the</strong> hunt for big game, <strong>the</strong> cost is <strong>of</strong>ten<br />
prohibitive. It’s obvious that a small group <strong>of</strong> guys or<br />
a family with children could fly to South Caicos on <strong>the</strong><br />
morning Caicos Express flight, have a great day fishing<br />
and snorkeling, and be back on Provo for sunset drinks<br />
for less than <strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> an average day’s fishing on<br />
Provo! (Factor in a great deal that Darik can get you at<br />
<strong>the</strong> East Bay Resort and you can enjoy a night on South<br />
Caicos too.)<br />
I reluctantly board my return flight to Providenciales<br />
and wish <strong>the</strong> team farewell. It’s been a great few days<br />
and I vow to return in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> when <strong>the</strong> operation will be<br />
fully up and running. I not only want to see <strong>the</strong> team in<br />
action again but I’m excited for <strong>the</strong> new fishing store in<br />
town. Oh, and I want to reintroduce myself to that elusive<br />
grouper . . . a<br />
For more information or to book a trip, call (649) 232-<br />
7475 or visit bluewaterskayakfishing.com or email<br />
darik@bluewaterskayakfishing.com.<br />
50 www.timespub.tc
Into <strong>the</strong> unknown to save history:<br />
Turks & Caicos Heritage Foundation<br />
Make no mistake, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are<br />
booming. There are more development, more homes<br />
and ever-increasing numbers <strong>of</strong> visitors each year.<br />
This is great news for <strong>the</strong> economy and <strong>the</strong> jobs<br />
and prosperity that goes along with it, but <strong>the</strong>re is a<br />
flip-side to all this progression. We stand to lose sites<br />
and artifacts <strong>of</strong> massive cultural and historical significance.<br />
These sites, <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re are dozens scattered<br />
around <strong>the</strong> TCI, must be investigated and recorded in<br />
order to preserve <strong>the</strong> history and, in many cases, <strong>the</strong><br />
physical artifacts for future generations.<br />
Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCHF founders (from left Daniel LeVin, John Galleymore<br />
and Jon Ward) set <strong>of</strong>f to East Caicos with local guide Tim Hamilton.<br />
TCHF Founder John Galleymore holds a 1700s bottle found on a<br />
long-abandoned plantation site.<br />
With that in mind, a small group <strong>of</strong> volunteers<br />
recently launched <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Heritage<br />
Foundation (TCHF). The idea is to work alongside <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI’s National Museum, National Trust, Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Environment & Coastal Resources and <strong>the</strong> like as <strong>the</strong><br />
“foot soldiers” who will venture to far-<strong>of</strong>f cays or trek<br />
deep into <strong>the</strong> bush to seek out, record and report back<br />
about what is still <strong>the</strong>re to be discovered. Then, a decision<br />
can be reached as to how best preserve, record or<br />
recover what has been found.<br />
Often, groups such as <strong>the</strong> TCI National Museum<br />
and National Trust are working with restricted budgets<br />
and manpower and do not have <strong>the</strong> resources or <strong>the</strong><br />
time to mount expeditions to carry out preliminary<br />
research in <strong>the</strong> field.<br />
TCHF hopes to fill that gap.<br />
The team consists <strong>of</strong> long-term residents who have<br />
vast experience with expeditions to some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most<br />
remote places in <strong>the</strong> TCI. They all have specialist skills<br />
such as navigation, photography and cave diving, and<br />
all are pr<strong>of</strong>icient with outdoor living and survival. They<br />
also have access to a number <strong>of</strong> historical documents<br />
and maps to seek out long-forgotten places <strong>of</strong> interest.<br />
The plan is to mount regular expeditions ranging<br />
from a single day to a week, that will cover nearly<br />
every land mass in <strong>the</strong> TCI, as well as numerous ocean<br />
and water sites (including flooded caves) that have <strong>the</strong><br />
potential <strong>of</strong> historical substance. Stunning ruins, not<br />
seen by many, litter <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and must be rediscovered<br />
in order to be preserved.<br />
It’s a positive future ahead for <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>, but we mustn’t lose sight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> past. a<br />
Stunning ruins, not seen by many, litter <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and must be<br />
re-discovered in order to be preserved.<br />
Q & A with TCHF founder John Galleymore<br />
Q: How long have you been interested in seeking out<br />
<strong>the</strong> past?<br />
A: My first job was developing West Caicos and I<br />
fell in love with Yankee Town. Luckily <strong>the</strong> contractor<br />
(Projetech) was sympa<strong>the</strong>tic to its survival, which<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 51
shows that progress and <strong>the</strong> past can go hand-in-hand<br />
if handled correctly.<br />
Q: What’s <strong>the</strong> most interesting thing you have found<br />
so far?<br />
A: We have found everything from huge ruins on East<br />
Caicos, intact bottles from <strong>the</strong> 1700s rolling around on<br />
<strong>the</strong> seabed, to tiny buttons made <strong>of</strong> porcelain left from<br />
both <strong>the</strong> Loyalist and Lucayan eras.<br />
Q: What do you do with <strong>the</strong> items you find?<br />
A: At present we have no authority to remove anything<br />
from any site. With anything <strong>of</strong> interest found, we photograph<br />
it in-situ, record details and GPS its location.<br />
Only if something was in imminent danger <strong>of</strong> being<br />
lost forever would we consider moving it.<br />
Q: What areas have you covered so far?<br />
A: We have explored most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> small cays as well as<br />
much <strong>of</strong> North, Middle and East Caicos. However, <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are still thousands <strong>of</strong> acres left—much <strong>of</strong> which has<br />
not been explored for hundreds <strong>of</strong> years.<br />
Q: What’s been <strong>the</strong> hardest expedition to date?<br />
A: We had to carry full scuba gear and tanks into <strong>the</strong><br />
heart <strong>of</strong> East Caicos (through some five miles <strong>of</strong> very<br />
thick bush) in order to explore a huge pond.<br />
Q: How would you like <strong>the</strong> TCHF to develop?<br />
A: Ideally, we will be able to present our expedition<br />
findings to <strong>the</strong> TCI Government, <strong>the</strong> Museum, <strong>the</strong><br />
National Trust and similar groups. But most importantly<br />
is to reach out to <strong>the</strong> schools and <strong>the</strong> next generation<br />
<strong>of</strong> Islanders. We hope <strong>the</strong>re are a few would-be explorers<br />
in that generation too! a<br />
The mission <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos Heritage<br />
Foundation (TCHF) is to actively seek out and rediscover<br />
(by means <strong>of</strong> land and ocean exploration)<br />
locations and artifacts predominantly linked to <strong>the</strong><br />
history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. In doing so, we seek to preserve<br />
<strong>the</strong>m (ei<strong>the</strong>r in-situ or on public display) for future<br />
generations. TCHF is a non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization with all<br />
donations going toward funding research expeditions<br />
in <strong>the</strong> TCI. If you would like to donate, find out more<br />
information or help, please contact John Galleymore<br />
at (649) 232-7083 or email beyondtci@gmail.com or<br />
https://www.facebook.com/tcihistory/inbox/.<br />
This perimeter wall was built during <strong>the</strong> Loyalist cotton plantation era and is found<br />
across an inland lake near Drum Point, East Caicos.<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
front street, p.o. box 188, grand turk, turks & caicos islands, bwi<br />
tel 649 946 2160 • fax 649 946 2160 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
MICHAEL PATEMAN<br />
This recent photo shows <strong>the</strong> new shutters added to <strong>the</strong> Donald Keith Science Building as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> National Museum’s rebuilding efforts<br />
following last year’s destruction by Hurricanes Irma and Maria.<br />
Starting Over, Again?<br />
By Dr. Michael P. Pateman, Museum Director, Turks & Caicos National Museum Foundation<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Winter 2017/18 Astrolabe, Dr. Donald Keith used <strong>the</strong> title “Starting Over” to describe <strong>the</strong> 2017<br />
hurricane season and <strong>the</strong> steps <strong>the</strong> museum was taking to ensure <strong>the</strong> protection and preservation <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> cultural heritage entrusted to us. In this my first edition as editor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Astrolabe, I thought it was<br />
a great title that should be repeated.<br />
I want to thank Dr. Keith for his long service as editor <strong>of</strong> this newsletter and to assure our readers<br />
that I will continue <strong>the</strong> tradition <strong>of</strong> providing high quality articles about <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos’ fascinating<br />
historical and cultural past for your enjoyment.<br />
In a sense, <strong>the</strong> National Museum is starting over again. The museum on Grand Turk is being restored<br />
and rebuilt, stronger than ever. New partnerships are being formed with <strong>the</strong> Community College, local<br />
businesses and residents. Plans for a new museum and facility in Providenciales will be revealed soon.<br />
Exciting, new heritage-based research projects are being conducted throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. You can look<br />
forward to reading more about <strong>the</strong>se programs in future editions <strong>of</strong> Astrolabe.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> following pages, “Casualties <strong>of</strong> War” looks at impacts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American Revolution on <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas and Turks & Caicos through <strong>the</strong> migration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Loyalists. You will also learn about <strong>the</strong> efforts<br />
to digitize historic records housed by <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum and <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
establishment <strong>of</strong> a National Archives. a<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 53
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
WIKIMEDIA COMMONS<br />
This monument in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada is dedicated to <strong>the</strong> United Empire Loyalists. “Nei<strong>the</strong>r confiscation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir property, <strong>the</strong> pitiless<br />
persecution <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir kinsmen in revolt, nor <strong>the</strong> galling chains <strong>of</strong> imprisonment could break <strong>the</strong>ir spirits, or divorce <strong>the</strong>m from a loyalty almost<br />
without parallel.”<br />
Casualties <strong>of</strong> War<br />
The Loyalists’ impact on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
By Dr. Charlene Kozy<br />
Casualties <strong>of</strong> war usually are counted as members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> military. In <strong>the</strong> War for American Independence,<br />
<strong>the</strong> casualty count included civilians that did not agree with <strong>the</strong> Revolution.<br />
The Revolution was a minority movement. One-third <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> population at <strong>the</strong> time were neutral, more<br />
than one-third were rebellious and probably fewer than one-third remained loyal to Great Britain, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r Country. These were <strong>the</strong> Loyalists. Just as refugees today are fleeing protracted wars in <strong>the</strong> Middle<br />
East and seeking asylum elsewhere, <strong>the</strong> Loyalist exodus had pr<strong>of</strong>ound, lasting effects on Canada, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas and o<strong>the</strong>r islands in <strong>the</strong> West Indies, including <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos.<br />
54 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Choosing sides<br />
Historians estimate that 80,000 supporters <strong>of</strong> British rule<br />
were driven out or fled from <strong>the</strong> Thirteen Colonies during<br />
and after <strong>the</strong> War <strong>of</strong> Independence. Many Loyalists were<br />
subjected to brutal and humiliating treatment such as tarring<br />
and fea<strong>the</strong>ring and riding astride rails. O<strong>the</strong>rs were<br />
imprisoned and some were hanged. Their property was<br />
taken and <strong>the</strong>y were sent into exile. Although <strong>the</strong> Peace<br />
Treaty <strong>of</strong> 1783 that ended <strong>the</strong> war stated that confiscated<br />
Loyalist property was to be restored, it did not happen.<br />
Georgia was <strong>the</strong> last <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original Thirteen Colonies<br />
to be established. Unlike <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn colonies founded<br />
more than a century earlier, allegiance to Britain was<br />
strong in Georgia where <strong>the</strong> inhabitants were quite<br />
dependent on <strong>the</strong> Crown for frontier protection. Many<br />
were relatively new immigrants or first- or second-generation<br />
settlers. Their reluctance to join <strong>the</strong> Revolution is<br />
understandable, as was <strong>the</strong> dread <strong>of</strong> what it might bring.<br />
James Habersham, a prominent Georgian, wrote to a<br />
friend in London in 1775 accurately predicting <strong>the</strong> state<br />
<strong>of</strong> affairs yet to come to Georgia. He wrote:<br />
“I would not choose to live here any longer than we<br />
are in a state <strong>of</strong> proper subordination and under <strong>the</strong><br />
protection <strong>of</strong> Great Britain. However, I do wish that a permanent<br />
line <strong>of</strong> government was drawn and pursued by<br />
<strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r and her children . . . o<strong>the</strong>rwise I cannot think<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event but with horror and grief.<br />
Fa<strong>the</strong>r against son, and son against fa<strong>the</strong>r, and <strong>the</strong><br />
nearest relations and friends combating with each o<strong>the</strong>r!<br />
I may say <strong>the</strong> truth, cutting each o<strong>the</strong>r’s throats.”<br />
Habersham left Georgia shortly after writing <strong>the</strong> letter.<br />
His three sons became active in <strong>the</strong> Revolutionary cause.<br />
It is difficult to determine <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> Loyalist refugees<br />
that left Georgia. At war’s end, American General<br />
Anthony Wayne estimated 6,000 were waiting for transportation<br />
to Canada and o<strong>the</strong>r territories promised by <strong>the</strong><br />
British. When concern heightened about <strong>the</strong> large number<br />
<strong>of</strong> Loyalists moving to Canada it was recommended that<br />
lands in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas be <strong>of</strong>fered to <strong>the</strong> Loyalists because<br />
<strong>the</strong> climate <strong>the</strong>re was more similar to that <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
colonies. Lieutenant John Wilson, acting engineer, was<br />
ordered to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas (including <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>)<br />
Among <strong>the</strong> mistreatment <strong>of</strong> Loyalists was <strong>the</strong> indignity <strong>of</strong> being “run out <strong>of</strong> town” on a rail.<br />
ALMAY STOCK PHOTO<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 55
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
to perform a general survey. He verified <strong>the</strong> availability<br />
<strong>of</strong> lands and <strong>the</strong> capability <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> soil for extensive<br />
agricultural development. Between 1783 and 1785 <strong>the</strong><br />
population was increased in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> by 6,000 to 7,000<br />
inhabitants <strong>of</strong> both races (one-fourth being slaves). Most<br />
came from North and South Carolina and Georgia. A subsequent<br />
royal proclamation stated intentions to purchase<br />
lands in <strong>the</strong> Bahamas from <strong>the</strong> proprietors and gave<br />
instruction on how to issue those lands.<br />
Whi<strong>the</strong>r goest thou?<br />
A study <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Alexander Wylly family illustrates <strong>the</strong> tragedies<br />
<strong>of</strong> war. Alexander, with his bro<strong>the</strong>r Richard and<br />
sister Hester, emigrated from Ireland to Georgia in 1750,<br />
only 18 years after it was founded. Alexander, a planter,<br />
served as Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House for several years. He and<br />
Susanna Crook, his wife, had three children: Alexander<br />
Campbell, William and Susanna. When war broke out<br />
Alexander was a moderate and lost his position as<br />
Speaker. Soon, he took a strong stand for <strong>the</strong> Crown,<br />
but bro<strong>the</strong>r Richard, a lawyer, joined <strong>the</strong> Patriots. Both <strong>of</strong><br />
Alexander’s sons were students at Oxford, England when<br />
<strong>the</strong> war started. They returned to Georgia to become captains<br />
in Thomas Brown’s King’s Rangers, asserting <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
undaunted loyalty to <strong>the</strong> British. The family, thus divided<br />
by <strong>the</strong> war, would never reunite. Alexander moved to East<br />
Florida and died soon after.<br />
Alexander’s widow, Susanna Crook Wylly, her daughter<br />
and sons joined <strong>the</strong> Loyalist exodus from Georgia and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Carolinas to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. This Loyalist ‘invasion” <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas inevitably led to political and social clashes<br />
with <strong>the</strong> long-established “old” British residents <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Typical <strong>of</strong> most refugees, <strong>the</strong>y tended to settle in groups<br />
with common economic, family and geographic ties to<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir past. A missionary observed that <strong>the</strong> “Conchs” (<strong>the</strong><br />
established inhabitants) were “poor, almost illiterate,<br />
unchurched, and given to drinking and swearing” while<br />
<strong>the</strong> Loyalists were “<strong>the</strong> gentry . . . who employ <strong>the</strong>ir leisure<br />
hours in reading <strong>the</strong> works <strong>of</strong> Mandeville, Gibbon,<br />
Voltaire, Rousseau and Hume,” and were brought up in <strong>the</strong><br />
North American school <strong>of</strong> modern politics. Consequently,<br />
<strong>the</strong> two different cultures were in conflict.<br />
More intolerance<br />
William Wylly defined <strong>the</strong> major point <strong>of</strong> disagreement<br />
between <strong>the</strong> Loyalists and <strong>the</strong> government: “It is only<br />
This portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds depicts John Murray, Earl <strong>of</strong><br />
Dunmore, Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas.<br />
reasonable that <strong>the</strong> Loyalists be admitted to a share in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Legislature.” The Board <strong>of</strong> American Loyalists was<br />
organized in July, 1784. Their stated purpose was “to<br />
prepare and maintain <strong>the</strong> Rights and Liberties for which<br />
<strong>the</strong>y had left <strong>the</strong>ir home and possessions . . . ” The British<br />
Bahamians were not yet ready for <strong>the</strong>se “extremists” who<br />
wanted to change centuries <strong>of</strong> quasi-legal government.<br />
A disputed election in 1784 climaxed <strong>the</strong> friction. The<br />
Provost Marshall declared six old inhabitants elected,<br />
even though Loyalist candidates had received <strong>the</strong> majority<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> votes. Following circulation <strong>of</strong> a paper protesting<br />
<strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Assembly, <strong>the</strong> Speaker ordered it<br />
burned publically outside <strong>the</strong> Courtroom door. In 1787,<br />
John Murray, Earl <strong>of</strong> Dunmore, <strong>the</strong> last Royal Governor <strong>of</strong><br />
Virginia, was appointed Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas. The<br />
Loyalists had become <strong>the</strong> stronger party but Dunmore<br />
WIKIPEDIA<br />
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Loyalist ruins still stand at Wade’s Green, North Caicos.<br />
BARRY DRESSEL<br />
followed <strong>the</strong> policy <strong>of</strong> his predecessor and would not dissolve<br />
<strong>the</strong> disputed Assembly and have new elections. The<br />
“Long Parliament” lasted eight more years until <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong><br />
Dunmore’s administration.<br />
Governor Dunmore, an experienced politician, found<br />
a worthy adversary in William Wylly. Twenty-five years<br />
his junior, a lawyer, and captain in <strong>the</strong> Georgia King’s<br />
Rangers, William established his presence not as a ruffian<br />
soldier, but as a man with positive political ideas and<br />
capable statesmanship. He stated in his book, A Short<br />
Account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas, “newcomers [to <strong>the</strong> Bahamas]<br />
who were accustomed to upright administration <strong>of</strong> law<br />
were galled by that perversion <strong>of</strong> public justice.”<br />
Wylly began his running fight against Dunmore, <strong>the</strong><br />
Assembly and <strong>the</strong> courts by describing <strong>the</strong> Assembly as<br />
“composed <strong>of</strong> destitute, bankrupt, and habitual drunkards<br />
<strong>of</strong> lowest description . . . four planters, not a merchant, nor<br />
a lawyer, or any man <strong>of</strong> respectable property.” His attack<br />
on <strong>the</strong> governor was equally bold. He called Dunmore<br />
“obstinate and violent by nature . . . with a capacity below<br />
mediocrity, little cultivated by education, ignorant <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> constitution <strong>of</strong> England . . . <strong>the</strong> lordly Despot <strong>of</strong> a<br />
petty Clan . . . and <strong>the</strong> immorality <strong>of</strong> his private life less<br />
reprehensible than <strong>the</strong> defects <strong>of</strong> his public character.”<br />
Specifically, Wylly accused Dunmore <strong>of</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>ring a child<br />
by a woman married to one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Searchers <strong>of</strong> Customs.<br />
Dunmore struck back at Wylly by having him arrested<br />
on a charge <strong>of</strong> having called <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice “a damn’d<br />
liar.” Wylly’s version was that <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice warned<br />
him more than once to support <strong>the</strong> government more<br />
loyally. The trial was a farce and <strong>the</strong> case dismissed on<br />
<strong>the</strong> grounds <strong>of</strong> conflict <strong>of</strong> evidence.<br />
Wylly’s finest hour was his anti-slavery stand in 1816.<br />
By <strong>the</strong>n, he was <strong>the</strong> Attorney General <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bahamas<br />
challenging <strong>the</strong> authority <strong>of</strong> master over slave. The case<br />
involved a Negro woman named Sue. She was brought to<br />
Nassau in 1809 by her master with a male Negro slave<br />
named Sandy and a child that had been born to <strong>the</strong>m in<br />
Georgia. The master attempted to take Sue, Sandy and<br />
<strong>the</strong> child back to Georgia. Evidently, Sue did not want to<br />
return and Wylly ruled that she could not be taken. He<br />
refused to appear before a Committee <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House to<br />
explain his ruling and was arrested and imprisoned, <strong>the</strong>n<br />
released by order <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice.<br />
The Assembly, asserting its claim to superiority over<br />
<strong>the</strong> Courts, declared <strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court unconstitutional.<br />
A public meeting supported <strong>the</strong> action <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Assembly. At a later meeting, <strong>the</strong> vindictive Assembly<br />
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voted not to grant salaries to William Wylly or to <strong>the</strong><br />
Justice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> General Court from <strong>the</strong> beginning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
dispute or for future services. This case was <strong>of</strong> such<br />
prominence that it became known as “<strong>the</strong> Wylly Affair.”<br />
During this period, economic prosperity and expansion<br />
assuaged political friction with <strong>the</strong> long-staple “sea<br />
island” cotton produced on island plantations becoming<br />
more pr<strong>of</strong>itable each year. All three <strong>of</strong> Alexander and<br />
Susannah Crook Wylly’s children (William, Alexander<br />
Campbell and Susannah) received 200-acre land grants<br />
on North Caicos. There is no irrefutable evidence <strong>the</strong>y<br />
exercised <strong>the</strong>se grants; however, on October 17, 1791,<br />
Alexander Campbell along with John Ferguson, John<br />
Lorimer and John Bell were appointed Justices <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Peace,<br />
<strong>the</strong> only authority authorized to provide legal services<br />
such as marriages, wills, etc. for <strong>the</strong> Loyalist residents <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. By a lengthy Act in 1799, <strong>the</strong> Turks<br />
& Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> were granted seats in <strong>the</strong> Assembly at<br />
Nassau. These Loyalists were undaunted in <strong>the</strong>ir zeal for<br />
right, as <strong>the</strong>y viewed it, and perhaps at ano<strong>the</strong>r place or<br />
time <strong>the</strong>y might have been counted among <strong>the</strong> great men<br />
<strong>of</strong> history.<br />
Postscript<br />
In 1776, after losing his position as Speaker and fearing<br />
being “tarr’d and fea<strong>the</strong>red” due to his loyalty to <strong>the</strong><br />
Crown, Alexander fled to East Florida (which was held by<br />
<strong>the</strong> British but was not a colony). He eventually returned<br />
to Savannah and died <strong>the</strong>re in 1781, his death probably<br />
“hasten’d by <strong>the</strong> troubles.” His widow lost <strong>the</strong>ir land by<br />
confiscation. Records <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sales <strong>of</strong> confiscated lands<br />
show heavy losses for <strong>the</strong> Wylly family: A house and lot<br />
in Savannah that belonged to both William and Alexander<br />
Wylly sold to Jacob Reed; a lot in Savannah that belonged<br />
to William Wylly sold to Thomas Washington; 1,000 acres<br />
that belonged to Alexander C. Wylly sold to <strong>the</strong> son <strong>of</strong><br />
James Habersham and ano<strong>the</strong>r 150 acres <strong>of</strong> land sold to<br />
Mordecai Sheftall.<br />
Alexander Campbell Wylly and family eventually<br />
returned to Georgia and settled on St. Simon’s Island<br />
where he was buried. Militancy seems to have run in <strong>the</strong><br />
family. During <strong>the</strong> American Civil War, in an ironic twist <strong>of</strong><br />
fate, his four grandsons took a rebel stand and fought for<br />
<strong>the</strong> Confederacy ra<strong>the</strong>r than remaing “loyal” to <strong>the</strong> United<br />
States. Three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m obtained <strong>the</strong> rank <strong>of</strong> Captain and all<br />
suffered wounds during <strong>the</strong> war.<br />
Loyalist Dr. John Lorimer’s tomb is near <strong>the</strong> settlement by that name<br />
on Middle Caicos.<br />
Susannah Wylly married John Anderson, a Loyalist<br />
from Savannah. They tried to return to <strong>the</strong> continent<br />
but a chilly reception caused <strong>the</strong>m to go back to New<br />
Providence where <strong>the</strong>ir tombstones in <strong>the</strong> Cemetery at<br />
<strong>the</strong> old Church <strong>of</strong> St. Mat<strong>the</strong>w in Nassau tell us John was<br />
buried in 1838 and Susannah in 1845.<br />
William Wylly, <strong>the</strong> most prominent member <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
family, married twice: Miss Mat<strong>the</strong>ws first and Miss Tyson<br />
second. He moved to St. Vincent, probably following his<br />
old friend Thomas Brown, who relocated <strong>the</strong>re from <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, and in 1822 became <strong>the</strong> Chief Justice. He<br />
died three years later. a<br />
Sources<br />
Bailey, Thomas A., and David Kennedy, 1983. The<br />
American Pageant—A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Republic.<br />
Coakley, Robert W., and Stetson Conn, 1975. The War <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> American Revolution.<br />
Center <strong>of</strong> Military History. United States Army.<br />
Washington, D.C.<br />
Kozy, Charlene, 1982. “A History <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Georgia Loyalists<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />
Dissertation, Middle Tennessee State University.<br />
Peters, Thelma Peterson, 1960. “The American Loyalists<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Plantation Period in <strong>the</strong> Bahama <strong>Islands</strong>.”<br />
Dissertation, University <strong>of</strong> Florida.<br />
DONALD H. KEITH<br />
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This is an example <strong>of</strong> a single scanned document in <strong>the</strong> Museum’s project to digitize <strong>the</strong> TCI’s archival heritage collections.<br />
MICHAEL P. PATEMAN<br />
One Page at a Time<br />
Digitizing TCI’s archival heritage collections.<br />
By Dr. Kelley Scudder-Temple, Dr. Michael P. Pateman and Vanessa Forbes-Pateman<br />
Although occupied for more than 300 years, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have been historically governed<br />
from afar. This absence <strong>of</strong> direct governance has resulted in limited archival conservation measures, leaving<br />
tens <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare documents in peril.<br />
While <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum (TCNM) has made attempts to identify and stabilize <strong>the</strong>se<br />
documents, <strong>the</strong> absence <strong>of</strong> funding and conservation consultation resulted in digitization <strong>of</strong> only one<br />
file—until recently. During <strong>the</strong> past two years, efforts have been made to digitize <strong>the</strong> most vulnerable and<br />
essential documents in this collection. The digitization and dissemination <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se archives will provide<br />
researchers with new insight into <strong>the</strong>se rare documents.<br />
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Background<br />
During <strong>the</strong> 17th and 18th centuries, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> were occupied by French, Spanish and English settlers,<br />
with limited permanent settlements and virtually no<br />
direct governance. It wasn’t until <strong>the</strong> late 18th century<br />
that British Loyalists, with substantial numbers <strong>of</strong> slaves,<br />
began to arrive and establish settlements throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong>. Given <strong>the</strong> country’s isolation and absence <strong>of</strong> a<br />
centralized government during this time, rapidly deteriorating<br />
archival materials are crucial to our understanding<br />
<strong>of</strong> this period in <strong>the</strong> colonial history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> region.<br />
Often referred to as “outlying islands,” archival<br />
material from <strong>the</strong> TCI is scant, at best. The absence <strong>of</strong><br />
a central government repository, natural disasters and<br />
neglect has resulted in <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare<br />
documents. Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents, such as personal<br />
correspondences, registers <strong>of</strong> births, baptisms, burials,<br />
land grants, etc., can provide a great deal <strong>of</strong> insight into<br />
<strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> those who were marginalized and enslaved in<br />
this outpost <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean. The digitization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
materials provides academicians, <strong>of</strong>ficials and members<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community with <strong>the</strong> opportunity to explore <strong>the</strong><br />
histories <strong>of</strong> those who have <strong>of</strong>ten been excluded from<br />
mainstream publications.<br />
A 1983 survey <strong>of</strong> colonial archives inventoried 2,000<br />
titles, representing thousands <strong>of</strong> records. Shortly <strong>the</strong>reafter<br />
<strong>the</strong>se records were separated and placed in various<br />
buildings throughout Grand Turk. During this time <strong>the</strong><br />
vast majority <strong>of</strong> those records were damaged beyond<br />
recovery. Through <strong>the</strong> efforts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCNM—<strong>the</strong> only<br />
institution in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> with a mandate<br />
to collect and curate historical and cultural records—<br />
nearly 50 linear feet were obtained (more than 50,000<br />
documents). In 2010 an EAP 408–Pilot Project, “From<br />
<strong>the</strong> brink: Identifying, collecting and digitizing records<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> after <strong>the</strong> destruction <strong>of</strong><br />
Hurricane Ike,” surveyed and identified documents in <strong>the</strong><br />
TCNM archives, o<strong>the</strong>r government <strong>of</strong>fices, churches and<br />
private collections. Additional items were rescued from<br />
a structurally unsound building, treated with UV, vacuumed,<br />
stabilized and catalogued into <strong>the</strong> Museum. Only<br />
one item was digitized under this pilot project, leaving<br />
<strong>the</strong> remaining originals vulnerable to loss though natural<br />
disaster or simple ongoing deterioration. Without a digital<br />
record, damage to or destruction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents<br />
would represent a major loss <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cultural history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Dr. Michael Pateman establishes a digitization station in <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
Science Building.<br />
British Library<br />
Endangered Archives Programme<br />
In 2016, <strong>the</strong> Zemi Foundation was awarded a British<br />
Library Endangered Archives Grant to digitize various<br />
documents held by <strong>the</strong> TCNM. The Endangered Archives<br />
Programme (EAP) was established in 2004 to digitize and<br />
make available to all, archival materials that are endangered,<br />
damaged or at risk <strong>of</strong> destruction. Since that time,<br />
millions <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents have been<br />
scanned throughout <strong>the</strong> world and are now available<br />
to all, free and online. This grant provided <strong>the</strong> National<br />
Museum with a venue to identify and digitize documents<br />
that were in peril.<br />
The aim <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> work supported by this grant was<br />
to digitize archival collections held by <strong>the</strong> TCNM. This<br />
included collections previously identified by EAP 408. An<br />
additional aim was to raise awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> importance<br />
<strong>of</strong> protecting historic documents and convey <strong>the</strong> significance<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> a National Archives in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
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Project results<br />
During <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> 24 months, staff from <strong>the</strong> Zemi<br />
Foundation and <strong>the</strong> TCNM, along with university interns<br />
and local volunteers, worked to digitize more than<br />
15,000 documents. Training sessions were held for government<br />
<strong>of</strong>ficials, museum staff and various members <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> community. The process <strong>of</strong> digitization was long and<br />
arduous. Staff and volunteers worked around <strong>the</strong> clock<br />
to ensure that documents most imperiled were identified<br />
and documented with <strong>the</strong> utmost <strong>of</strong> care.<br />
The documents digitized included birth, death and<br />
baptismal records from <strong>the</strong> Anglican and Methodist<br />
Churches, along with various government correspondences<br />
(detailed below). The digitization <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se<br />
documents was crucial as many had disintegrated so<br />
much that <strong>the</strong>y could not be handled.<br />
Government records digitized include correspondences<br />
to and from <strong>the</strong> Colonial Office in <strong>the</strong> United<br />
Kingdom and <strong>the</strong> Governor <strong>of</strong> Jamaica and minutes from<br />
<strong>the</strong> Legislative and Executive Councils. These include:<br />
Despatches to <strong>the</strong> Colonial Secretary (1850–1873)<br />
Records <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Colonial Secretary (1859–1873)<br />
Despatches to <strong>the</strong> Governor in Chief (1849–1860)<br />
Legislative Council Records (1850–1895, 1926–1950)<br />
Executive Council Records (1850–1873)<br />
Parish Register Records (1822–1934)<br />
Church Records<br />
Prior to <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> public register <strong>of</strong> records, <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos did not require a civil registration <strong>of</strong><br />
recording births, deaths or marriages. The church records<br />
are <strong>the</strong> only records containing this information. Church<br />
records digitized comprise <strong>of</strong>:<br />
Methodist Church Records (1839–1940)<br />
Anglican Church Records (1799–1922)<br />
Turks & Caicos residents from as far as Providenciales<br />
assisted in <strong>the</strong> digitization process. Volunteers included<br />
Hon. Josephine Connolly and <strong>the</strong> recently deceased<br />
Lawrence Ben.<br />
Opposite page from top: Volunteers learn <strong>the</strong> digitization process.<br />
Reverend Archbold from <strong>the</strong> Salem Baptist Church and Dr. Kelley<br />
Scudder-Temple examine rare church documents.<br />
Michael Temple, Zemi Technical Director, and Vanessa Forbes-<br />
Pateman, intern from Western Illinois University, painstakingly work<br />
to digitize TCI records.<br />
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PATRICIA SAXTON<br />
This photo <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> venerable Victoria Public Library on Grand Turk vividly depicts <strong>the</strong> dual effects <strong>of</strong> a major fire and Hurricane Irma in 2017.<br />
Word quickly spread <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> digitization project and<br />
various members <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> community visited <strong>the</strong> museum<br />
to assess our efforts. Reverend Archbold from <strong>the</strong> Salem<br />
Baptist Church on Grand Turk asked <strong>the</strong> team to conduct<br />
a preliminary assessment <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents<br />
held by <strong>the</strong> church. Documents were assessed,<br />
digitized and stabilized to provide parishioners with<br />
<strong>the</strong> opportunity to see, firsthand, how <strong>the</strong> conservation<br />
process worked. We soon discovered that thousands <strong>of</strong><br />
documents are currently housed with various organizations<br />
and individuals throughout <strong>the</strong> country seeking a<br />
venue to preserve <strong>the</strong>m. Unfortunately, limited funding<br />
did not allow <strong>the</strong> team to digitize most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se documents.<br />
Therefore, training and community inclusionary<br />
measures played an integral role throughout <strong>the</strong> digitization<br />
process. Members <strong>of</strong> staff, board <strong>of</strong> directors,<br />
local volunteers (including politicians such as <strong>the</strong> former<br />
Deputy Speaker <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> House <strong>of</strong> Assembly, <strong>the</strong> leader <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Opposition [who later became <strong>the</strong> Premier] and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
Members <strong>of</strong> Parliament) participated in digitization activities.<br />
Why digitalize?<br />
No organization is totally immune from disasters, ei<strong>the</strong>r<br />
by human action or <strong>the</strong> forces <strong>of</strong> nature. Disasters like<br />
earthquakes, tornadoes, hurricanes, floods and fires are<br />
world-wide occurrences. Many organizations assume <strong>the</strong>y<br />
will never experience a disaster, so <strong>the</strong>y never develop a<br />
strategy for preventing or responding to one.<br />
A burst pipe, an electrical fire, pest infestation,<br />
mold, improper storage or vandalism can wreak havoc<br />
in archives, damaging or destroying records that are<br />
irreplaceable. As seen recently in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos,<br />
hurricanes and fires can bring devastation to <strong>the</strong>se rare<br />
and endangered assets. During <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> this project,<br />
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three natural disasters affected <strong>the</strong> TCI’s historic records.<br />
On March 9, 2017, a fire devastated <strong>the</strong> historic Victoria<br />
Public Library, destroying all material held <strong>the</strong>re, including<br />
non-digitized historic documents. On September<br />
7 and 14, 2017, Hurricanes Irma and Maria rampaged<br />
through <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. While none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
historic collections at <strong>the</strong> Museum were lost, <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
impacted as a result <strong>of</strong> no power at <strong>the</strong> TCNM Archives<br />
for six weeks.<br />
Most at risk for residents, government, businesses<br />
and for archives are records that document individual<br />
and collective memories, leading to “identity loss.”<br />
Following a hurricane, secondary threats become evident.<br />
Emergency power failures or electrical faults, leaks<br />
or drainage problems or mishandling and human error<br />
can all put <strong>the</strong>se documents at risk. Imperiled records on<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> such as property deeds, birth<br />
certificates and personal papers, as well as records documenting<br />
rights and entitlements—such as National Health<br />
Insurance and its benefits—are all crucial to individuals<br />
and institutions throughout <strong>the</strong> county.<br />
While <strong>the</strong> digitization <strong>of</strong> 15,000 documents may<br />
seem like a lot, we have only begun to scratch <strong>the</strong> surface.<br />
Hundreds <strong>of</strong> thousands <strong>of</strong> rare and endangered<br />
documents can still be found throughout <strong>the</strong> country.<br />
The National Museum is undergoing a comprehensive<br />
reorganization under <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new director,<br />
Dr. Michael Pateman. These efforts include an expansion<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> library and <strong>the</strong> establishment <strong>of</strong> an on-site volunteer<br />
digitization station.<br />
Given recent events, <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> digitization<br />
<strong>of</strong> rare and endangered documents cannot be<br />
understated. We hope that in <strong>the</strong> near future, a National<br />
Archives can be established to ensure that <strong>the</strong>se rare and<br />
endangered documents are digitized and preserved for<br />
generations to come.<br />
A National Archives can help connect families by providing<br />
a resource for personal research and family history<br />
discovery. For decades, even centuries, national governments<br />
have ga<strong>the</strong>red data that has substantive value to<br />
researchers trying to improve quality <strong>of</strong> life. National<br />
archival records have helped researchers and reformers<br />
tackle topics as diverse as welfare, epidemiology, criminal<br />
justice, educational reform, migration and immigration<br />
and environmental affairs, to name just a few.<br />
The school system can use digitized resources from<br />
National Archives collections as educational resources for<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir classes. There are limited details about this region<br />
in history books. A National Archives encourages students<br />
to delve into <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>of</strong>essional papers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />
political and civic leaders to find details about events or<br />
people. The students who conduct research into <strong>the</strong> primary<br />
documents <strong>of</strong> an island’s history begin asking more<br />
questions about both history and current issues. a<br />
We would like to recognize <strong>the</strong> efforts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> following<br />
individuals and organizations who helped make this<br />
digitization happen: The British Library Endangered<br />
Archives Programme, <strong>the</strong> staff and volunteers <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Zemi<br />
Foundation, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum staff<br />
and volunteers, interns Alex Temple and Vanessa Forbes-<br />
Join <strong>the</strong> Museum<br />
Become a Member <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
National Museum and<br />
receive a year’s subscription<br />
to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Islands</strong> (which includes<br />
Astrolabe), free admission to <strong>the</strong> Museum and o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
benefits.<br />
Senior (62+) $35<br />
Individual $50<br />
Family/Friend $100<br />
Sponsor $250<br />
Contributor $500<br />
Partner $750<br />
We have several options for joining:<br />
• Visit <strong>the</strong> Museum at our Providenciales location at<br />
The Village at Grace Bay or our Grand Turk location<br />
in Guinep House on Front Street<br />
• Visit our website at<br />
www.tcmuseum.org/membership-support/.<br />
*For U.S. residents, support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum may be tax-deductible<br />
if you join via Friends <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum, our affiliated institution and registered 501 (c) (3).<br />
See our website for more details:<br />
www.tcmuseum.org.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 63
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum matters<br />
Emancipation Day<br />
The event, “Honoring <strong>the</strong> Ancestors: Celebrating <strong>the</strong><br />
Spirit and Tenacity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> People <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>,” was held at Cheshire Hall Plantation on August<br />
1, <strong>2018</strong> to commemorate Emancipation Day. It was<br />
organized by <strong>the</strong> TCI National Museum and National<br />
Trust, in collaboration with <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Culture,<br />
and coordinated by David Bowen.<br />
Performances highlighted through song, poetry,<br />
music and dance various elements <strong>of</strong> TCI’s rich cultural<br />
heritage, attributed to an African ancestry. From <strong>the</strong><br />
sounds <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> drumbeat by <strong>the</strong> Tuca Drummers to <strong>the</strong><br />
ripsaw music <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Sea Breeze Ripsaw Band to <strong>the</strong> folk<br />
songs and dances done by David Bowen and <strong>the</strong> Tuca<br />
Dancers, all were in full celebratory mode.<br />
We travelled through time with Beth Atkins as she<br />
read about <strong>the</strong> life <strong>of</strong> Mary Prince, a slave who for ten<br />
years toiled in <strong>the</strong> salt pans in Grand Turk, and with<br />
O’Brien Forbes and Levenia Bishop as <strong>the</strong>y read slave<br />
narratives. We listened to and sang along to Negro spirituals<br />
sung by O’Brien Forbes.<br />
Beth Atkins reads<br />
about <strong>the</strong> slave, Mary<br />
Prince.<br />
Tuca Dancers perform a traditional dance.<br />
Dominique Rolle, in his spoken word, took us on an<br />
audible tour <strong>of</strong> Cheshire Hall Plantation to connect<br />
Pateman and Premier Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson.<br />
past to present, being conscious <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic significance<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event’s venue. We reflected with “Twis<br />
Flo” as he “preached” his thought-provoking poetry.<br />
Stephen Wilson’s reenactment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reading <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Emancipation Act was captivating. In keeping with<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>me, Cora Malcolm eloquently recited Maya<br />
Angelou’s poem “Still I Rise.”<br />
The proceedings concluded after we all made a<br />
reflective walk along <strong>the</strong> footpath <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic cotton<br />
plantation up to <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Great House. There,<br />
Pastor Goldston Williams <strong>of</strong>fered up prayers <strong>of</strong> thanksgiving<br />
in remembrance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancestors and gave <strong>the</strong><br />
benediction.<br />
Thank you to our sponsors FortisTCI, St. Monica’s<br />
Anglican Church and Hon. Delroy Williams, along with<br />
<strong>the</strong> teams <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum,<br />
Turks & Caicos National Trust and Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Culture and David Bowen. Thanks to <strong>the</strong> wonderful cast<br />
for sharing <strong>the</strong>ir talents so that we could reflect and<br />
celebrate this important event. Special thanks to all <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> attendees who took <strong>the</strong> time to come out and join<br />
this “Emancipation Celebration.” a<br />
Story & Photos By Candianne Williams<br />
Living History Summer Camp <strong>2018</strong><br />
We have come to <strong>the</strong> successful conclusion <strong>of</strong> our<br />
second Museum Living History Summer Camp at our<br />
location in Grace Bay, Providenciales. It was a week <strong>of</strong><br />
action-packed fun and learning that, according to <strong>the</strong><br />
campers, went by too quickly!<br />
Artist Aysha Stephens<br />
creates an Emancipation<br />
painting.<br />
Campers visited with elders at <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage<br />
House to learn what it was like to grow up in <strong>the</strong> mid-<br />
1900s in such a dwelling. Daphne Forbes taught <strong>the</strong><br />
children how to weave dried palm leaves, while Mary<br />
Williams explained how to make scrap mats. Alishia<br />
64 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum matters<br />
Duncanson and her team from <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Culture demonstrated <strong>the</strong> traditional art <strong>of</strong> knitting<br />
fishing nets, a very important part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> maritime heritage<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Mary Williams teaches<br />
campers how to<br />
make scrap mats.<br />
The Iguana mascot met <strong>the</strong> children at Little Water Cay.<br />
The campers learned how to make fever grass iced<br />
tea as well as <strong>the</strong> process <strong>of</strong> making grits. This involves<br />
shelling <strong>the</strong> corn, grinding it, cleaning it using <strong>the</strong> fanner<br />
basket and finally cooking it outdoors on a fire<br />
made under three stones.<br />
Farming was very much a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> traditional TCI<br />
lifestyle. Mario Smith <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture<br />
took <strong>the</strong> students to tour farms housing pigs, chickens,<br />
goats and a variety <strong>of</strong> plants. Each child planted <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
own okra plant to take home, and made a scrapbook to<br />
document <strong>the</strong> plant’s progress.<br />
Campers learned that because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> American<br />
War <strong>of</strong> Independence, Loyalists settled in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to grow cotton. A tour <strong>of</strong> Cheshire Hall<br />
Plantation helped put <strong>the</strong> pieces <strong>of</strong> history toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />
From <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal<br />
Resources, B Naqqi Manco gave an interactive presentation<br />
on <strong>the</strong> traditional uses <strong>of</strong> plants apart from<br />
being a source <strong>of</strong> food. Previous generations had a<br />
great knowledge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plants and animals found in<br />
<strong>the</strong> environment that helped <strong>the</strong>m to survive. Amy<br />
Avenant taught about indigenous animals and how to<br />
coexist with <strong>the</strong>m to ensure that <strong>the</strong>y continue to survive.<br />
Campers visited <strong>the</strong> Iguana Island Nature Reserve<br />
on Little Water Cay to learn about <strong>the</strong> endangered Rock<br />
Iguanas.<br />
There were no shy campers in David Bowen’s traditional<br />
music and dance session! They had a wonderful<br />
dance party as Mr. Bowen played <strong>the</strong> drums and harmonica<br />
and showed <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> various traditional dance<br />
moves. Cricket with Coach Daryl Pierre Louis was <strong>the</strong><br />
highlight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> final afternoon.<br />
Thank you, Turks & Caicos Banking Company and<br />
Donna Seim for being sponsors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> camp. Thanks<br />
also to <strong>the</strong> Taxi Association, Executive Tours, Caribbean<br />
Cruisin’, <strong>the</strong> National Trust, <strong>the</strong> TCI Departments<br />
<strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Culture, and Environment & Coastal<br />
The Turks & Caicos Taxi Association (at left “Skipper” Stubbs and<br />
at right President Ron Higgs) helped transport campers.<br />
Resources and <strong>the</strong> Cricket Association for making<br />
this a wonderful experience. Thanks to <strong>the</strong> TCI Ruby<br />
Association and Our Lady <strong>of</strong> Divine Providence Church<br />
for assistance with facilities. To our facilitators, camp<br />
coordinators and supervisors we say a special thank<br />
you. And finally, thanks to <strong>the</strong> parents who entrusted<br />
your children to us. We look forward to <strong>the</strong>ir participation<br />
in our upcoming Children’s Club activities. a<br />
Story & Photos By Candianne Williams<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 65
around <strong>the</strong> islands<br />
Opposite page: Three-month-old Lily and her owner came to April’s<br />
Spay Day, sponsored by <strong>the</strong> Wilcox Family.<br />
Above: One-year-old Crystal and her owner Marlon took advantage<br />
<strong>of</strong> SNiP’s services in July, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
Making a Cut<br />
New non-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization helps control stray animal population.<br />
By Kathy Borsuk ~ Photos Courtesy SNiP<br />
Even though I don’t own a dog or cat, <strong>the</strong> name “SNiP” (which stands for Spay Neuter Program Inc.) causes<br />
me to cringe a bit in my inner parts. That’s until I remember how important <strong>the</strong>se simple operations are<br />
towards controlling <strong>the</strong> animal population in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In its first year alone, SNiP conducted<br />
376 surgeries, preventing <strong>the</strong> birth <strong>of</strong> a huge number <strong>of</strong> unwanted puppies and kittens.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 67
SNiP is one <strong>of</strong> those serendipitous ga<strong>the</strong>rings <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
right people in <strong>the</strong> right time and place to do a world<br />
<strong>of</strong> good. This independent, not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it organization<br />
was launched in early 2017 by a group <strong>of</strong> volunteers<br />
from o<strong>the</strong>r local animal welfare organizations who were<br />
looking for a better, more effective and humane way <strong>of</strong><br />
controlling <strong>the</strong> TCI’s free-roaming animal population.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> past, free spay/neuter clinics were typically<br />
conducted yearly, attempting to sterilize as many as<br />
275 animals in a week. SNiP Directors Laurie McCann,<br />
Wendy Ayer and Aimee Deziel were involved in <strong>the</strong>se<br />
efforts and, while effective, realized that <strong>the</strong>y required<br />
massive amounts <strong>of</strong> organization to secure a location<br />
for <strong>the</strong> surgeries as well as transportation, lodging, food<br />
and supplies for <strong>the</strong> volunteer veterinarians who traveled<br />
from abroad.<br />
The SNiP directors and many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir volunteers<br />
have also volunteered at Potcake Place for years, where<br />
unwanted animals are brought to be adopted by residents<br />
and visitors. They felt frustration that it was <strong>of</strong>ten <strong>the</strong><br />
same owners bringing in puppies and refusing to sterilize<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir animals. And although Potcake Place is responsible<br />
for <strong>the</strong> annual adoption <strong>of</strong> 400 to 500 puppies, statistics<br />
show that one unspayed female dog can produce 12 to<br />
20 puppies in one year. In six years, her <strong>of</strong>fspring can<br />
produce more than 60,000 dogs! This underscored <strong>the</strong><br />
importance <strong>of</strong> starting at <strong>the</strong> top and sterilizing that one<br />
female.<br />
The need for an ongoing, year-round spay/neuter<br />
program was clear. In early 2017, a new animal wellness<br />
center—Bark & Bliss—opened in Providenciales, a project<br />
backed by SNiP Director Aimee Deziel. Its full-time<br />
veterinary team is led by Dr. Meghann Kruck, whose<br />
experience includes running a low-income animal clinic<br />
in Minneapolis, Minnesota for five years. In fact, Dr.<br />
Meghann’s introduction to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos came as a<br />
result <strong>of</strong> her meeting Susan Blehr and volunteering at <strong>the</strong><br />
TCSPCA’s spay/neuter clinics. Aimee and Dr. Meghann<br />
readily agreed to set aside time and space in <strong>the</strong> clinic<br />
for weekly sterilization operations. Twa Marcelin and Wolf<br />
lawyer Erica Krygsman became <strong>the</strong> fourth director, who<br />
handles all legal matters for <strong>the</strong> NPO.<br />
How does SNiP operate? Anyone who wants to spay<br />
or neuter <strong>the</strong>ir pet, free-<strong>of</strong>-charge, no questions asked,<br />
can contact SNiP by phone, on Facebook, or via email. A<br />
volunteer will call <strong>the</strong>m back and walk <strong>the</strong>m through <strong>the</strong><br />
procedure. Laurie McCann explains, “The owner will drop<br />
<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong>ir pet in <strong>the</strong> morning. The vet team examines <strong>the</strong><br />
animal to make sure <strong>the</strong>y are healthy enough for surgery<br />
Happy that <strong>the</strong> operation went well are Slax and his owner at January’s<br />
Spay Day, sponsored by Turkberry.<br />
and administers a flea/tick pill and for dogs, a distemper/Parvo<br />
vaccine. Once <strong>the</strong> animal is anes<strong>the</strong>tized, <strong>the</strong><br />
surgery is completed in 15 minutes or less. They can go<br />
home that evening unless <strong>the</strong>y are an outside animal. In<br />
that case, we hold <strong>the</strong>m overnight, providing food, water<br />
and shelter, so <strong>the</strong>y can enjoy full recovery without being<br />
bo<strong>the</strong>red by <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r or o<strong>the</strong>r animals.”<br />
Most owners typically only have to wait one to two<br />
weeks maximum for <strong>the</strong>ir pet’s operation and, thanks<br />
to sponsors and donations <strong>the</strong> entire process, including<br />
drugs administered, is free!<br />
One unspayed female dog can produce<br />
12 - 20 puppies in one year<br />
In 6 years her <strong>of</strong>fspring can produce<br />
more than 60,000 dogs<br />
68 www.timespub.tc
Above: Working April’s Spay Day are <strong>the</strong> Bark & Bliss team and SNiP<br />
volunteers (from left): Dr. Meghann Kruck, Lauren H<strong>of</strong>land, Auriol<br />
Lloyd-Wright, Lisa French, Wendy Ayer, Laurie McCann and Pauline<br />
Eden.<br />
Right: Snow is in recovery with her owners in March, <strong>2018</strong>.<br />
With June 21, <strong>2018</strong> marking SNiP’s first anniversary,<br />
<strong>the</strong> group is proud to say that 376 successful<br />
surgeries were performed (259 dogs and 117 cats). Pet<br />
owners came from around Providenciales, with 65% being<br />
Islanders and nearly 1/4 from Blue Hills.<br />
The SNiP board <strong>of</strong> directors lauds <strong>the</strong> group’s sponsors.<br />
Some, such as <strong>the</strong> Gansevoort Turks + Caicos,<br />
sponsor a monthly spay day, which includes <strong>the</strong> purchase<br />
<strong>of</strong> all <strong>the</strong> medicines and supplies. O<strong>the</strong>rs, including Villa<br />
Renaissance, donate old sheets and towels and cash.<br />
Some sponsors are condominium owners who are animal<br />
lovers and want to give back to <strong>the</strong> community <strong>the</strong>y so<br />
much enjoy.<br />
After Hurricanes Irma and Maria hit <strong>the</strong> TCI in 2017,<br />
14,000 pounds <strong>of</strong> dog food were donated to feed hungry<br />
animals. As SNiP and o<strong>the</strong>r volunteers distributed<br />
<strong>the</strong> food, <strong>the</strong>y collected 300 names <strong>of</strong> pet owners who<br />
wanted <strong>the</strong>ir animals sterilized. They were pleasantly<br />
surprised, understanding that <strong>the</strong> Caribbean culture<br />
(especially men) do not always agree with <strong>the</strong> procedure,<br />
feeling that it undermines an animal’s virility and vitality!<br />
SNiP’s efforts in <strong>the</strong> settlements also occasionally<br />
cross into animal welfare territory. Laurie recalls going<br />
into Leeward Palms to collect a dog for neutering and<br />
finding ano<strong>the</strong>r dog with a collar deeply embedded in <strong>the</strong><br />
flesh around its throat. Apparently, <strong>the</strong> owners had put<br />
on <strong>the</strong> collar when <strong>the</strong> dog was a puppy but were not able<br />
Please help to provide FREE spay & neuter to <strong>the</strong> animals <strong>of</strong> TCI<br />
Free Spay Neuter Program<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 69
to catch it as it grew. Via Facebook, animal lovers pitched<br />
in to help with his medical and ongoing care and his case<br />
kickstarted <strong>the</strong> formation <strong>of</strong> SNiP’s Angel Fund, to help<br />
similar pets in need.<br />
Dr. Meghann is a perfect fit for SNiP. Besides being<br />
talented, energetic and bubbling with enthusiasm for animals<br />
and <strong>the</strong>ir owners, she has performed nearly 40,000<br />
sterilizations in her career to date. She is excited to be<br />
on-call 24 hours a day and able to provide a continuity<br />
<strong>of</strong> care to pets in <strong>the</strong> Bark & Bliss full-service clinic. She<br />
and Veterinary Technician Lauren H<strong>of</strong>land have worked<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r for many years. Besides <strong>the</strong>ir duties on Provo,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y regularly travel to Grand Turk, typically seeing as<br />
many as 25 animals in a six hour day.<br />
Resorts who are SNiP sponsors can take advantage<br />
<strong>of</strong> a new program for stray cats. It involves setting up an<br />
on-site feeding station, capturing and sterilizing <strong>the</strong> cats,<br />
<strong>the</strong>n returning <strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> resort, where <strong>the</strong>y are likely to<br />
guard <strong>the</strong>ir food source and keep o<strong>the</strong>r strays away.<br />
Both Laurie and Dr. Meghann are big on client education,<br />
especially to <strong>the</strong> younger generation. They say, “It’s<br />
important to take care <strong>of</strong> your pets. Making sure <strong>the</strong>y<br />
have <strong>the</strong> proper immunizations and treatments early on<br />
will make <strong>the</strong>m happier, healthier and more energetic.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r pet owners will see <strong>the</strong> difference. When <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
spayed or neutered, males especially are more even-tempered<br />
and less likely to roam or fight. It’s a win-win<br />
situation.”<br />
Having fewer stray animals improves tourism as well.<br />
Laurie explains, “Many visitors are shocked when <strong>the</strong>y see<br />
free-roaming, skinny, sick, injured or dead animals in <strong>the</strong><br />
bush or on <strong>the</strong> roads. When you sterilize your animal, you<br />
are doing your part to keep TCI ‘Beautiful by Nature.’”<br />
Along with many private donors and a host <strong>of</strong><br />
hard-working and much-appreciated volunteers, SNiP corporate<br />
supporters and sponsors to date are: Gansevoort<br />
Turks + Caicos, Turkberry, Grace Bay Resorts, Villa<br />
Renaissance, The Palms, The Sands, The Shore Club,<br />
Tranquility Property Management, Island Bargains and<br />
Save Dog Project. Additional Spay Day sponsorship opportunities<br />
are available, with sponsors recognized through<br />
social media and ongoing radio ads.<br />
For more information, see contact details below. a<br />
June 21, <strong>2018</strong> we celebrated our 1 year anniversary!<br />
During our first year, we provided<br />
376<br />
23%<br />
Blue Hills<br />
69% 31%<br />
FREE Spay & Neuter Surgeries<br />
11%<br />
Grace Bay<br />
9%<br />
Leeward<br />
Leeward Palms<br />
62%<br />
38%<br />
23%<br />
South Dock<br />
Five Cays<br />
Chalk Sound<br />
12%<br />
Long Bay<br />
Thank you to our Donors, Volunteers, Vet Team and pet owners<br />
who participated during our first year.<br />
To donate or learn more visit www.SNIPTCI.com<br />
Free Spay Neuter Program<br />
Spay Day Sponsorship inquiries can be<br />
directed to donate@sniptci.com<br />
70 www.timespub.tc
Speaking <strong>of</strong><br />
island pets,<br />
Cake is a new<br />
children’s<br />
book by<br />
Rebecca Crow.<br />
It tells <strong>the</strong><br />
story <strong>of</strong> young<br />
Nikolai, who<br />
travels with<br />
his parents on<br />
a vacation to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and ends up bringing home a potcake<br />
he finds on <strong>the</strong> beach by Da Conch Shack. Nikolai and<br />
his parents go to Potcake Place and, as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
K9 Rescue program, complete <strong>the</strong> paperwork and veterinary<br />
examination that allow Cake to travel home<br />
on <strong>the</strong> plane with Nicolai and his family.<br />
It took a trip to Turks & Caicos in 2009 to inspire<br />
author Rebecca Crow to write her first children’s<br />
book. Cake is based on her family’s actual experience<br />
with a potcake puppy by <strong>the</strong> same name. Real-life<br />
“Cake” was from a litter <strong>of</strong> three-week-old puppies<br />
that were left abandoned in a box at <strong>the</strong> doorstep<br />
<strong>of</strong> Potcake Place. Through <strong>the</strong> K9 Rescue program,<br />
Rebecca’s family was able to adopt and bring home<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir dream dog.<br />
“Potcakes”—so named because <strong>the</strong>y were traditionally<br />
fed from <strong>the</strong> remains <strong>of</strong> rice baked on <strong>the</strong><br />
bottom <strong>of</strong> pots—are considered <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>’ native<br />
breed. Most have sweet dispositions and loyal hearts,<br />
but <strong>of</strong>ten don’t have a place to call home.<br />
The Potcake Place K9 Rescue program was created<br />
to help reduce <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> homeless pets.<br />
They house between 50 and 70 strays and work with<br />
local vets to provide <strong>the</strong>se animals with vaccinations,<br />
deworming and <strong>the</strong> approval <strong>of</strong> health tickets<br />
for travel. Arrangements are also made to book an<br />
adopted dog’s plane ride to <strong>the</strong>ir new home, to meet<br />
<strong>the</strong> family at <strong>the</strong> airport or to arrange a transfer if<br />
<strong>the</strong> family is not visiting <strong>the</strong> island. Potcake Place K9<br />
Rescue keeps <strong>the</strong>ir doors open only by private donations<br />
and volunteer workers’ generous help.<br />
Rebecca Crow is donating 10% <strong>of</strong> all proceeds<br />
from <strong>the</strong> sale <strong>of</strong> Cake back to Potcake Place K9<br />
Rescue, in thanks for one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> greatest gifts her<br />
family has ever received. a<br />
urgent care • family medicine<br />
URGENT CARE<br />
WALK-IN CLINIC<br />
AND WELLNESS CENTRE<br />
• • •<br />
(649) 941-5252<br />
on site pharmacy<br />
located adjacent graceway gourmet<br />
Focused on <strong>the</strong> patient<br />
The way medicine should be practiced<br />
Food for Thought is a new charity set up to provide<br />
daily breakfast to government school students –<br />
starting with <strong>the</strong> primary schools in North Caicos,<br />
Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay.<br />
We estimate that just $200 will allow us to provide<br />
breakfast to one child for a whole school year.<br />
If you would like to donate or learn more please<br />
email foodforthoughttci@gmail.com<br />
or visit our website foodforthoughttci.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 71
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, <strong>the</strong><br />
Bahamas, and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.waveylinepublishing.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time — with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and <strong>the</strong><br />
Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos, and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 40,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk, North<br />
Caicos, Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic<br />
airports on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
At this time, all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major international carriers<br />
arrive and depart from Providenciales International<br />
Airport. American Airlines flies from Miami, Charlotte and<br />
New York/JFK. JetBlue Airways <strong>of</strong>fers service from Fort<br />
Lauderdale, Boston and New York/JFK. Southwest Airlines<br />
travels to Fort Lauderdale. Delta Airlines flies from Atlanta<br />
and New York/JFK. WestJet travels from Toronto. Air<br />
Canada <strong>of</strong>fer flights from Toronto. British Airways travels<br />
from London/Gatwick via Antigua.<br />
Bahamasair and InterCaribbean Airways fly to Nassau,<br />
72 www.timespub.tc
Bahamas. Flights to: Antigua; Dominica; Cap Haitien<br />
and Port Au Prince, Haiti; Kingston and Montego Bay,<br />
Jamaica; Miami, Florida; Puerto Plata and Santo Domingo,<br />
Dominican Republic; San Juan, Puerto Rico; St. Lucia; St.<br />
Maarten; Santiago, Cuba; and Tortola are available on<br />
InterCaribbean Airways, while Caicos Express travels to<br />
Cap Haitien daily. (Schedules are current as <strong>of</strong> September<br />
<strong>2018</strong> and subject to change.)<br />
Inter-island service is provided by InterCaribbean<br />
Airways, Caicos Express Airways and Global Airways. Sea<br />
and air freight services operate from Florida.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
Time zone<br />
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />
observed.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA, and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs, and pornography are also illegal.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 73
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all<br />
rental contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong><br />
left-hand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by<br />
round-abouts at major junctions. Please don’t drink and<br />
drive! Taxis are abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and<br />
many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer shuttle service between popular visitor<br />
areas. Scooter, motorcycle, and bicycle rentals are<br />
also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connection. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
120/240 volts, 60 Hz, suitable for all U.S. appliances.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $20 for all persons two years and older, payable in<br />
cash or traveller’s cheques. It is typically built into <strong>the</strong><br />
cost <strong>of</strong> your ticket.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales is<br />
located downtown in Butterfield Square. In Grand Turk,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Post Office is on Front Street, with <strong>the</strong> Philatelic<br />
Bureau on Church Folly. The <strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
varied and colorful stamp issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or over <strong>the</strong> air.<br />
Local station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island<br />
EyeTV on Channel 5. People’s Television <strong>of</strong>fers 75 digitally<br />
transmitted television stations, along with local news<br />
and talk shows on Channel 8. There are also a number <strong>of</strong><br />
local radio stations, magazines, and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy, and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience, and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for T&C Islanders.<br />
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
Governor, HE Dr. John Freeman. He presides over an executive<br />
council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
Lady Sharlene Cartwright-Robinson is <strong>the</strong> country’s first<br />
woman premier, leading a majority People’s Democratic<br />
Movement (PDM) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based upon English Common<br />
Law and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
Brew ad May 2017_Layout 1 5/11/17 10:51 AM Page 1<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />
Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry, and<br />
fishing generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>’ main exports are lobster and conch, with <strong>the</strong><br />
world’s first commercial conch farm once operating on<br />
Providenciales. Practically all consumer goods and foodstuffs<br />
are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships, and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work on <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians, and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i,<br />
Baptist, Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God <strong>of</strong> Prophecy, Episcopal,<br />
Faith Tabernacle Church <strong>of</strong> God, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Turk’s Head Brewery<br />
Brewery Tours Monday-Friday<br />
11AM, 1PM, 3PM<br />
$15/pp<br />
Enjoy a complimentary selection <strong>of</strong> local craft beer<br />
after your tour!<br />
Email tours@turksheadbeer.com<br />
Call 649.941.3637 x 1005 to book<br />
www.turksheadbrewery.tc<br />
52 Universal Dr.<br />
Providenciales, TCI<br />
TOUR TASTE SHOP<br />
All Natural &<br />
Gluten Free<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate, and lab test<br />
results to be submitted at <strong>the</strong> port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain<br />
clearance from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture, Animal<br />
Health Services.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves<br />
and bases. The National Song is “This Land <strong>of</strong> Ours,” by<br />
Made with family recipes that date back<br />
centuries, Islander, <strong>the</strong> original Turks and<br />
Caicos alcoholic ginger beer, is available on<br />
Providenciales at <strong>the</strong> Graceway Gourmet and<br />
<strong>the</strong> IGA, as well as local bars and restaurants.<br />
www.islandergingerbeer.com<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 75
<strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell, PhD. Peas and Hominy (Grits)<br />
with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling services<br />
through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass, and plastic. The TCI Environmental Club is spearheading<br />
a campaign to eliminate single-use plastic bags.<br />
Do your part by using a cloth bag whenever possible.<br />
Keep TCI “Beautiful by Nature” by not littering!<br />
Island Auto_Layout 1 12/12/17 12:49 PM Page 1<br />
ISLAND AUTO RENTALS<br />
For Quality & Reliable Service<br />
& Competitive Prices<br />
The Cruise Center, Grand Turk<br />
Neville Adams<br />
Tel: (649) 946-2042<br />
Cell: (649) 232-0933 or (649) 231-4214<br />
Email: nevilleadams@hotmail.com<br />
Providenciales<br />
Levoi Marshall<br />
Cell: (649) 441-6737<br />
Email: levoimarshall86@gmail.com<br />
Web: islandautorentalstci.com<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef, or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />
diving, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding, and<br />
beachcombing. Pristine reefs, abundant marine life, and<br />
excellent visibility make TCI a world-class diving destination.<br />
Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />
course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in 33<br />
national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries, and areas <strong>of</strong><br />
historical interest. The National Trust provides trail guides<br />
to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong> major<br />
historical sites. There is an excellent national museum on<br />
Grand Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales. A<br />
scheduled ferry and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it<br />
easy to take day trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There is<br />
a casino on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find Caribbean paintings, T-shirts,<br />
sports and beachwear, and locally made handicrafts,<br />
including straw work and conch crafts. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
where to stay<br />
Grand Turk<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
H<br />
The Arches <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk – Tel 649 946 2941 190–210 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Bohio Dive Resort – Tel 649 946 2135 • Web www.bohioresort.com 170–230 16 • • • • • • • •<br />
Crabtree Apartments – Tel 978 270 1698 • Web www.GrandTurkVacationRental.com 210–250 3 • • • • • •<br />
Manta House – Tel 649 946 1111 • Web www.grandturk-mantahouse.com 110–130 5 • • • • • • •<br />
Osprey Beach Hotel – Tel 649 946 2666 • Web www.ospreybeachhotel.com 90–225 37 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican House – Tel 649 246 6797 • Web www.pelicanhousegrandturk.com 110-130 3 • • • • •<br />
Salt Raker Inn – Tel 649 946 2260 • Web www.saltrakerinn.com 55–140 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Solomon Porches Guesthouse – Tel 649 946 2776/241 2937 • Fax 649 946 1984 75–100 3 • •<br />
Middle Caicos<br />
H<br />
Dragon Cay Resort at Mudjin Harbour – Tel 649 344 4997 • Web www.dragoncayresort.com 325 8 • • • • • • • • •<br />
North Caicos<br />
H<br />
Bottle Creek Lodge – Tel 649 946 7080 • Web www.bottlecreeklodge.com 155–240 3 • •<br />
Caicos Beach Condominiums – Tel 649 241 4778/786 338 9264 • Web www.caicosbeachcondos.com 159–299 8 • • • • • • • •<br />
Cedar Palms Suites – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 250–300 3 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Flamingo’s Nest – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 175–340 2 • • • • • • • •<br />
Hollywood Beach Suites - Tel 800 551 2256/649 231 1020 • Web www.hollywoodbeachsuites.com 200–235 4 • • • • • •<br />
JoAnne’s Bed & Breakfast - Tel 649 946 7301 • Web www.turksandcaicos.tc/joannesbnb 80–120 4 • • • •<br />
Palmetto Villa – Tel 649 946 7113/649 244 4186 • Web www.oceanbeach.tc 225–250 1 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pelican Beach Hotel - Tel 649 946 7112 • Web www.pelicanbeach.tc 125–165 14 • • • • • • • •<br />
Pine Cay<br />
H<br />
The Meridian Club - Tel 649 946 7758/866 286 7993 • Web www.meridianclub.com 800–1300 13 • • • • • • •<br />
Parrot Cay<br />
H<br />
COMO Parrot Cay Resort & Spa - Tel 649 946 7788/855 PARROTCAY • Web www.parrotcay.com 550–2850 65 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Providenciales<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
G<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
G<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
H<br />
Airport Inn – Tel 649 941 3514 • Web www.airportinntci.com. 140 18 • • • • • • •<br />
The Alexandra Resort & Spa – Tel 800 704 9424/649 946 5807 • Web www.alexandraresort.com 280–420 99 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Atrium Resort – Tel 888 592 7885/649 333 0101 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>atriumresorttci.com 159–410 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
Amanyara – Tel 866 941 8133/649 941 8133 • Web www.aman.com 1000–2100 73 • • • • • • • •<br />
Aquamarine Beach Houses – Tel 649 231 4535/905 556 0278 • www.aquamarinebeachhouses.com 200–850 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Beaches Resort Villages & Spa – Tel 888-BEACHES/649 946 8000 • Web www.beaches.com 325–390AI 758 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Beach House Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 5800 • Web www.beachchousetci.com 532–638 21 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
BE Beach Enclave – Tel 888 434 3981 • Web www.beachenclave.com see web 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Blue Haven Resort & Marina – Tel 855 832 7667/649 946 9900 • Web www.bluehaventci.com 250–650 51 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Caribbean Paradise Inn – Tel 649 946 5020 • Web www.caribbeanparadiseinn.com 162–225 17 • • • • • • • •<br />
Club Med Turkoise – Tel 800 258 2633/649 946 5500 • Web www.clubmed.com 120–225 290 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Coral Gardens on Grace Bay – Tel 649 941 5497/800 787 9115 • Web www.coralgardensongracebay.com 199-449 32 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Gansevoort Turks + Caicos – Tel 888 844 5986/649 941 7555 • Web www.gansevoorttc.com 315–720 91 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Club - Tel 800 946 5757/649 946 5050 • Web www.gracebayclub.com 650–1750 75 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Grace Bay Suites – Tel 649 941 7447 • Web www.GraceBaySuites.com 99–195 24 • • • • • • • •<br />
Harbour Club Villas – Tel 649 941 5748/305 434 8568 • Web www.harbourclubvillas.com 210–240 6 • • • • •<br />
The Inn at Grace Bay – Tel 649 432 8633 • Web www.innatgracebay.com 179–379 48 • • • • • • •<br />
Kokomo Botanical Gardens - Tel 649 941 3121• Web www.aliveandwellresorts.com 169–299 16 • • • • •<br />
Le Vele - Tel 649 941 8800/888 272 4406 • Web www.leveleresort.com 303–630 22 • • • • • • • •<br />
La Vista Azul – Tel 649 946 8522/866 519 9618 • Web www.lvaresort.com 215–375 78 • • • • • • •<br />
The Lodgings – Tel 649 941 8107/242 6722 • Web www.hotelturksandcaicos.com 175–255 15 • • • • • •<br />
Neptune Villas – Tel 649 331 4328 • Web www.neptunevillastci.com 150–400 10 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Northwest Point Resort • Tel 649 941 5133 • Web www.northwestpointresort.com 196–550 49 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ocean Club Resorts - Tel 800 457 8787/649 946 5880 • Web www.oceanclubresorts.com 180–690 191 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Palms Turks & Caicos – Tel 649 946 8666/866 877 7256 • Web <strong>the</strong>palmstc.com 595–1700 72 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 77
where to stay<br />
H<br />
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Providenciales (continued)<br />
Pelican Nest Villa – Tel 649 342 5731 • Web www.pelicannest.tc 429–857 2 • • • • • •<br />
Point Grace – Tel 649 946 5096/888 209 5582 • Web www.pointgrace.com 424–1515 27 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Ports <strong>of</strong> Call Resort – Tel 888 678 3483/649 946 8888 • Web www.ports<strong>of</strong>callresort.com 135–210 99 • • • • • • •<br />
Queen Angel Resort – Tel 649 941 8771 • Web www.queenangelresort.com 150–575 56 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Reef Residences at Grace Bay – Tel 800 532 8536 • Web www.reefresidence.com 275-385 24 • • • • • • •<br />
The Regent Grand – Tel 877 288 3206/649 941 7770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>regentgrand.com 495–1100 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
Royal West Indies Resort – Tel 800 332 4203/649 946 5004 • Web www.royalwestindies.com 180–695 92 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Sands at Grace Bay – Tel 877 777 2637/649 946 5199 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>sandsresort.com 175–675 116 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Seven Stars Resort & Spa – Tel 866 570 7777/649 333 7777 – Web www.sevenstarsgracebay.com 365–2400 165 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Shore Club – Tel 649 339 8000 – Web www.<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com 465–4650 148 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sibonné Beach Hotel – Tel 888 570 2861/649 946 5547 • Web www.sibonne.com 110–375 29 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Somerset on Grace Bay – Tel 649 339 5900/888 386 8770 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>somerset.com 350–1300 53 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Tuscany – Tel 866 359 6466/649 941 4667 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>tuscanyresort.com 975–1300 30 • • • • • • • •<br />
The Venetian – Tel 877 277 4793/649 941 3512 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>venetiangracebay.com 695–1175 27 • • • • • • • •<br />
Villa del Mar – Tel 877 345 4890/649 941 5160 • Web www.yourvilladelmar.com 190–440 42 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Mani – Tel 649 431 4444 • Web www.villamanitci.com 6500–9500 8 • • • • • • •<br />
Villa Renaissance - Tel 649 431 8899 • Web www.villarenaissancebeachresort.com 295–650 36 • • • • • • • • •<br />
The Villas at Blue Mountain – Tel 649 941 4255 • Web www.villasatbluemountain.com 1200–2500 3 • • • • • • • •<br />
West Bay Club – Tel 855 749 5750/649 946 8550 • Web www.<strong>the</strong>westbayclub.com 235–1163 46 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Windsong – Tel 649 333 7700/800 WINDSONG • Web www.windsongresort.com 275–925 50 • • • • • • • • •<br />
range <strong>of</strong> daily rates<br />
US$ (subject to change)<br />
number <strong>of</strong> units<br />
major credit cards<br />
restaurant<br />
bar<br />
air conditioning<br />
phone in unit<br />
television in unit<br />
kitchen in unit<br />
laundry service<br />
pool<br />
on <strong>the</strong> beach<br />
Salt Cay<br />
Castaway – Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.castawayonsaltcay.com 175–265 4 • • • • •<br />
Genesis Beach House – Tel 561 502 0901 • Web www.Genesisbeachhouse.com 1000–1200W 4 • • • • •<br />
Pirate’s Hideaway B & B – Tel 800 289 5056/649 946 6909 • Web www.saltcay.tc 165–175 4 • • • • • • •<br />
Salt Cay Beach House – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.saltcaybeachhouse.blogspot.com 799W 1 • • • • • •<br />
Trade Winds Lodge – Tel 649 232 1009 • Web www.tradewinds.tc 925–1325W 5 • • • • •<br />
Twilight Zone Cottage – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.twilightzonecottage.blogspot.com 499W 1 • • • •<br />
The Villas <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay – Tel 772 713 9502 • Web www.villas<strong>of</strong>saltcay.com 150–475 5 • • • • • • • •<br />
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South Caicos<br />
East Bay Resort – Tel 844 260 8328/649 232 6444 • Web eastbayresort.com 198–1775 86 • • • • • • • • • •<br />
Sailrock South Caicos – Tel 800 929 7197 • Web sailrockresortcom 600–800 6 • • • • • • • • •<br />
South Caicos Ocean & Beach Resort – Tel 877 774 5486/649 946 3219<br />
Web southcaicos.oceanandbeachresort.com 120–275 24 • • • • •<br />
Hotel & Tourism Association Member<br />
Green Globe Certified<br />
Rates (listed for doubles) do not include Government Accommodation Tax and Service Charge<br />
classified ads<br />
SCOOTER BOBS_Layout 1 8/8/18 10:57 AM Page GBC2017_Layout 1 2/16/17 9:10 AM Page 1<br />
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classified ads<br />
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Salt Mills Plaza<br />
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1 8/26/18 1:<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 79
dining out – providenciales<br />
Amanyara — Amanyara Resort. Tel: 941-8133. Light gourmet<br />
cuisine with menu changing daily. Open 6 to 10 PM.<br />
Angela’s Top O’ The Cove Deli — Suzie Turn, by NAPA.<br />
Tel: 946-4694. New York-style delicatessen. Eat-in, carry-out,<br />
catering. Open daily 7 AM to 5 PM; Sunday 7 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Asú on <strong>the</strong> Beach — Alexandra Resort. Tel: 941-8888. Casual<br />
Caribbean and popular international fare. Open daily for 7:30<br />
AM to 10:30 PM. Service indoors, poolside, and at beach.<br />
Baci Ristorante — Harbour Towne, Turtle Cove. Tel: 941-3044.<br />
Waterfront Italian dining. Brick oven pizza. Popular bar. Open<br />
for lunch Monday to Friday 12 to 2 PM and dinner nightly from<br />
6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Bay Bistro — Sibonné Beach Hotel. Tel: 946-5396. Oceanfront<br />
dining featuring creative international cuisine. Open daily<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Weekend brunch. Catering and special events.<br />
Beaches Resort & Spa — The Bight. Tel: 946-8000.<br />
All-inclusive resort. A variety <strong>of</strong> restaurants and bars on premises.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a pass.<br />
Bella Luna Ristorante — Glass House, Grace Bay Road. Tel:<br />
946-5214. Fine Italian dining. Indoor or terrace seating above<br />
tropical garden. Open daily from 5:30 PM. Closed Sunday. Lunch<br />
and pizza in <strong>the</strong> garden. Private catering available.<br />
Big Al’s Island Grill — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 941-3797. Wide<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> burgers, steaks, salads, and wraps in a diner-like<br />
setting. Open daily from 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Bugaloo’s Conch Crawl — Five Cays. Tel: 941-3863. Fresh<br />
local conch and seafood by <strong>the</strong> beach. Rum, buckets <strong>of</strong> beer,<br />
live local bands. Open daily from 11 AM to late.<br />
Cabana Beach Bar & Grill — Ocean Club. Tel: 946-5880.<br />
Casual island fare, burgers, salads, snacks. Open daily from<br />
7 AM to 10 PM. Tropical cocktails with a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea.<br />
Caicos Bakery — Caicos Café Plaza. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic French boulangerie.<br />
Fresh-baked breads, rolls, croissants, muffins, quiche,<br />
pastries, cakes. Open 7 AM to 4:30 PM daily except Sunday.<br />
Caicos Café — Caicos Café Plaza. Tel: 946-5278.<br />
Mediterranean specialties, grilled local seafood. Fine wines, dining<br />
on <strong>the</strong> deck. Open 6 PM to 10 PM Monday to Saturday.<br />
The Caravel Restaurant — Grace Bay Court. Tel: 941-5330.<br />
Cozy restaurant <strong>of</strong>fering island food with flair; famous for fish<br />
tacos. Full bar. Open daily 5 to 10 PM, closed Thursday.<br />
Chicken Chicken — <strong>Times</strong> Square, downtown Provo. Fast food,<br />
fried chicken, native fare.<br />
Chinson’s Grill Shack — Leeward Highway. Tel: 941-3533.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong>’ best jerk and barbecue, Jamaican pastries. Open<br />
daily 8 AM to 10 PM; Friday to Midnight.<br />
Club Med — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5500. All-inclusive<br />
resort. Buffet-style dining; live show and disco in <strong>the</strong> evenings.<br />
Non-guests can purchase a daily pass.<br />
Coco Bistro — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5369. Continental<br />
Caribbean cuisine by Chef Stuart Gray under a canopy <strong>of</strong> palms.<br />
Serving dinner from 5:30 PM. Closed Monday. Look for <strong>the</strong><br />
Cocovan airstream lounge with garden seating or take-away.<br />
Coconut Grove Restaurant & Lounge — Olympic Plaza,<br />
Downtown. Tel: 247-5610. Casual native fare for residents and<br />
tourists. Cracked conch, conch fritters, fried fish. Pool and game<br />
room. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Coyaba Restaurant — Caribbean Paradise Inn. Tel: 946-5186.<br />
Contemporary Caribbean gourmet cuisine in a private tropical<br />
garden setting. Extensive wine list. Dinner nightly from 6 to 10<br />
PM. Closed Tuesday. Reservations recommended.<br />
Crackpot Kitchen — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 2313336. Experience<br />
<strong>the</strong> best <strong>of</strong> au<strong>the</strong>ntic Turks & Caicos and Caribbean cuisines<br />
with local celebrity Chef Nik. Open daily 5 to 10 PM except<br />
Thursday; Happy Hour 5 to 7 PM.<br />
Da Conch Shack & RumBar — Blue Hills. Tel: 946-8877.<br />
Island-fresh seafood from <strong>the</strong> ocean to your plate. Covered<br />
beachfront dining for lunch and dinner daily from 11 AM.<br />
Danny Buoy’s — Grace Bay Road. Tel: 946-5921. Traditional<br />
American pub fare; imported draught beers. Open for lunch and<br />
dinner daily from 11 AM. Happy Hour specials. Large screen TVs<br />
for sporting events. Karaoke.<br />
The Deck — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 941-7777. All day dining<br />
and cocktails by <strong>the</strong> water’s edge. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM.<br />
Live music Friday nights.<br />
Drift — West Bay Club. Tel: 946-8550. Open-air beachfront dining.<br />
Creatively used local ingredients. Full bar. Open daily.<br />
Dune — Windsong Resort. Tel: 333-7700. Private beachfront<br />
dining with limited availability. Fresh fare prepared to perfection.<br />
Open daily.<br />
El Catador Tapas & Bar — Regent Village. Tel: 244-1134.<br />
Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Spanish tapas with a wide mix <strong>of</strong> cold and hot plates<br />
meant for sharing. Fun and lively atmosphere. Open daily from<br />
5 PM.<br />
Element — LeVele Plaza. Tel: 348-6424. Contemporary, creative<br />
cuisine in an elegant setting. Open for dinner Friday to<br />
Wednesday 6:30 to 10:30 PM.<br />
Fairways Bar & Grill — Provo Golf Club. Tel: 946-5833. Dine<br />
overlooking <strong>the</strong> “greens.” Open for breakfast and lunch from 7<br />
AM to 4 PM daily; Friday, Saturday and Sunday open until 8 PM.<br />
Great Sunday brunch 9 AM to 3 PM.<br />
Fire & Ice — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Drinks at <strong>the</strong> Ice Bar, dessert by <strong>the</strong> fire pits. South Americanmeets-Caribbean<br />
flavors and spices. Open daily 5:30 to 9:30<br />
PM. Closed Wednesday.<br />
Fresh Bakery & Bistro — Atrium Resort. Tel: 345-4745.<br />
Healthy European salads, soups, sandwiches, bakery, pies and<br />
cakes. Gelato. Open daily 7 AM to 6 PM, closed Sunday.<br />
Fresh Catch — Salt Mills Plaza. Tel: 243-3167. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic native<br />
cuisine, from seafood to souse. All-you-can-eat seafood buffet<br />
on Wednesday. Open daily 8 AM to 10 PM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Carry-out available.<br />
Garam Masala — Regent Village. Tel: 941-3292. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Indian cuisine, tandoori charcoal-oven specialties. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 3 PM, 5:30 to 10 PM. Dine-in, take-out or delivery.<br />
Giggles Ice Cream & Candy Parlour — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call &<br />
Williams Storage. Tel: 941-7370. Cones, sundaes, shakes,<br />
smoothies, “Gigglers,” ice cream pies and cakes. Pick ‘n’ mix<br />
candies. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Gilley’s Sky Lounge & Bar — At <strong>the</strong> airport. Tel: 946-4472.<br />
Burgers, sandwiches, local food. Open daily 6 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Grace’s Cottage — Point Grace Resort. Tel: 946-5096.<br />
Elegant, gourmet Caribbean cuisine showcasing regional foods.<br />
Extensive wine list. Gazebo seating under <strong>the</strong> stars or indoor<br />
dining in a romantic gingerbread cottage. Serving dinner from<br />
6 to 10 PM nightly. Reservations required. Native cuisine night<br />
on Tuesday with live music.<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
Grace Grill — Neptune Plaza. Tel: 332-3663. Simple fare with a<br />
Latin flair. Steaks, burgers, vegetarian. Open daily to 10 PM.<br />
Grill Rouge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Al fresco bistro.<br />
Diverse menu. Fun cocktails. Open daily for lunch Noon to 3 PM,<br />
dinner to 9 PM.<br />
Hemingways on <strong>the</strong> Beach — The Sands at Grace Bay. Tel:<br />
941-8408. Casual beachfront bar and restaurant. Fresh fish,<br />
pasta, sandwiches, salads and tropical drinks by <strong>the</strong> pool.<br />
Oceanfront deck for great sunsets! Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Hole in <strong>the</strong> Wall Restaurant & Bar — Williams Plaza, Old<br />
Airport Road. Tel: 941-4136. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican/Island cuisine<br />
where <strong>the</strong> locals go. Full bar. A/C dining or outdoors on <strong>the</strong><br />
deck. Open daily 7 AM to 9 PM. Pick-up/delivery available.<br />
Infiniti Restaurant & Raw Bar — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-<br />
5050. Elegant beachfront dining for lunch and dinner. Gourmet<br />
Euro/Caribbean cuisine; fine wines. Full bar and lounge.<br />
Reservations required.<br />
Island Raw — Le Petite Plaza. Tel: 346-5371. Vegan lifestyle<br />
kitchen, <strong>of</strong>fering fresh, organic, raw, vegan, gourmet. Open<br />
Friday, Noon to 2 PM.<br />
Island Conch Bar & Grill — Bight Cultural Market. Tel: 946-<br />
8389. Caribbean and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM.<br />
Island Scoop — Grace Bay Plaza. Tel: 242-8511/243-5051.<br />
21 flavors <strong>of</strong> ice cream made locally. Cones, smoothies, blizzards<br />
and shakes. Open daily, 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
The Java Bar — Graceway Gourmet. Tel: 941-5000. Gourmet<br />
café serving fresh baked desserts, sandwiches and c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
delights. Open 7 AM to 8 PM daily.<br />
Jack’s Fountain — Across from Casablanca Casino. Tel: 946-<br />
5225. Seafood, steak, unique specialty items in a lively, relaxed<br />
“beach bar” atmosphere. Open 7 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
Kalooki’s Grace Bay — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 941-8388. The perfect<br />
mix <strong>of</strong> sweet and spicy Caribbean flavors. New location in<br />
Grace Bay. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM. Closed Thursday.<br />
Kitchen 218 — Beach House, Lower Bight Road. Tel: 946-5800.<br />
Caribbean cuisine with hints <strong>of</strong> French and Asian fusion and <strong>the</strong><br />
chef’s passion for fresh ingredients. Open 8 AM to 10 PM daily.<br />
The Landing Bar & Kitchen — Grace Bay Road across from<br />
Regent Village. Tel: 341-5856. Unique nautical setting for dinner<br />
under <strong>the</strong> stars. Cocktails, fire pit. Open daily except Tuesday<br />
5:30 to 10 PM.<br />
Las Brisas — Neptune Villas, Chalk Sound. Tel: 946-5306.<br />
Mediterranean/Caribbean cuisine with tapas, wine and full bar.<br />
Terrace and gazebo dining overlooking Chalk Sound. Open daily<br />
8 AM to 10 PM. Take-out available; private parties.<br />
Le Bouchon du Village — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234. A<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> Paris. Sidewalk café with sandwiches, salads, tartines,<br />
tapas, dinner specials, wine, cheese, dessert, c<strong>of</strong>fees. Open<br />
daily 11 AM. Closed Sunday.<br />
Le Comptoir Francais — Regent Village. Tel: 946-5234.<br />
French deli, bakery, wine shop. Open daily.<br />
Lemon 2 Go C<strong>of</strong>fee — Ventura House. Tel: 941-4069.<br />
Gourmet c<strong>of</strong>feehouse. Sandwiches, muffins, cookies, croissants,<br />
yogurt, salads. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30 AM to 7 PM,<br />
Sunday 9 AM to 1 PM.<br />
The Lounge — Grace Bay Club. Tel: 946-5050. Decidedly hip<br />
lounge. Caribbean-infused tapas, martinis, tropical cocktails,<br />
world music and <strong>the</strong> finest sunset location in Providenciales.<br />
Lupo — Regent Village. Tel: 431-5876. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
“comfort food.” Regional wine list. Dine in or take out readymade<br />
gourmet meals. Open daily Noon to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM.<br />
Magnolia Restaurant & Wine Bar — Miramar Resort. Tel:<br />
941-5108. International cuisine with island flavors, north shore<br />
views. Open for dinner from 6 to 9:30 PM except Monday. Wine<br />
bar opens at 4 PM.<br />
Mango Reef — Turtle Cove. Tel: 946-8200. Fresh local flavors<br />
and seafood, homemade desserts. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Set price dinner on weekdays. Waterside deck, indoor or patio<br />
dining. Tie-up to dock at Turtle Cove Marina.<br />
Market Café — Blue Haven Resort. Tel: 946-9900. Gourmet<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, frozen drinks; fresh breads and pastries; grab ‘n’<br />
go salads, sandwiches, smoothies. Open daily 7 AM to 8 PM.<br />
Mis Amigos Cocina Mexicana — Central Square. Tel: 946-<br />
4229. A variety <strong>of</strong> traditional Mexican fare, including salads and<br />
<strong>the</strong> best margaritas in town. Open daily.<br />
Mo<strong>the</strong>r’s Pizza — Downtown <strong>Times</strong> Square. Tel: 941-4142.<br />
Best pizza in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, available by <strong>the</strong> slice or <strong>the</strong><br />
island’s biggest “large.” Open daily 11 AM to 9 PM; to 10 PM on<br />
Friday and Saturday; Noon to 8 PM on Sunday.<br />
Mr. Groupers — Lower Bight and Sunset Ridge Hotel (near airport).<br />
Tel: 242-6780. Serving fresh local seafood straight from<br />
<strong>the</strong> sea. Open daily 10 AM to 10:30 PM, Sunday 3 to 11 PM.<br />
Opus Wine • Bar • Grill — Ocean Club Plaza. Tel: 946-5885.<br />
International menu with Caribbean flair. Fresh seafood. Serving<br />
dinner nightly 6 to 10 PM. Indoor/outdoor dining. Conference<br />
facility, events, catering.<br />
Outback Steakhouse TCI — Regent Village. Unbeatable<br />
steak cuts complemented by chicken, ribs, seafood, and pasta.<br />
Generous portions, moderately priced, casual atmosphere. Open<br />
Monday to Thursday 3 to 11 PM; Friday to Midnight; Saturday 1<br />
PM to Midnight; Sunday 1 to 11 PM.<br />
Parallel23 — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666. Pantropical<br />
cuisine in a setting <strong>of</strong> casual elegance. Boutique wine<br />
list. Al fresco or private dining room available. Open daily 6 to<br />
10:30 PM.<br />
The Patty Place — Behind Shining Stars; Le Petit Place, Blue<br />
Hills. Tel: 246-9000. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Jamaican patties and loaves. 18<br />
flavors <strong>of</strong> Devon House ice cream. Open daily 9:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Pavilion — The Somerset. Tel: 339-5900. Chef Brad <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />
global palate, interpreted locally. Seafood raw bar. Open daily<br />
for breakfast, lunch, dinner; Sunday Prime Rib special.<br />
Pelican Bay Restaurant & Bar — Royal West Indies Resort.<br />
Tel: 941-2365/431-9101. Poolside restaurant and bar with<br />
Caribbean, French and Asian fare. Breakfast, lunch, dinner daily<br />
from 7:30 AM to 10 PM. Special events each week.<br />
Pepper Town Café — Digicel Cinema, #4. Tel: 246-9237.<br />
Native and Caribbean Dishes. Open daily except Sunday 11:30<br />
AM to 7 PM. Island breakfast on Saturday at 7 AM.<br />
Pizza Pizza — Grace Bay Plaza/Cinema Plaza. Tel: 941-<br />
8010/941-3577. New York style specialty pizzas. Open daily<br />
11:30 AM to 9:30 PM, weekends until 10 PM. Free delivery.<br />
Provence — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 946-4124. Traditional French<br />
artisan-style cuisine. Fresh pasta, gelato, cheeses, charcuterie,<br />
pastries, desserts. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.<br />
Retreat Kitchen Vegetarian Café & Juice Bar — Ports <strong>of</strong><br />
Call. Tel: 432-2485. Fresh, organic, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free<br />
fare. Fresh juices, daily lunch specials. Open for lunch<br />
Monday to Saturday, 9 AM to 3 PM. Delivery available.<br />
Rickie’s Flamingo Café — Between Ocean Club and Club Med.<br />
Tel: 244-3231. Local fare and atmosphere right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Best grouper sandwich and rum punch! Don’t miss Curry Fridays<br />
and Beach BBQ Saturdays.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Fall</strong> <strong>2018</strong> 81
Salt Bar & Grill — Blue Haven Resort & Marina. Tel: 946-9900.<br />
Outdoor seating overlooking <strong>the</strong> marina. Sandwiches, burgers,<br />
salads, classic bar favorites. Open daily 11:30 AM to 9:30 PM.<br />
Seven — Seven Stars Resort. Tel: 339-7777. Elevated contemporary<br />
cuisine fused with TCI tradition. Open Monday to Saturday,<br />
5:30 to 9:30 PM.<br />
72ºWest — The Palms Turks & Caicos. Tel: 946-8666.<br />
Beachside dining with a family-friendly, Caribbean-inspired<br />
menu. Serving lunch daily; dinner seasonally.<br />
Sharkbite Bar & Grill — Admiral’s Club at Turtle Cove. Tel:<br />
941-5090. Varied menu; casual dining. Sports bar/slots. Open<br />
daily from 11 AM to 2 AM.<br />
Shay Café — Le Vele Plaza. Tel: 331-6349. Offering organic<br />
c<strong>of</strong>fees, teas, sandwiches, salads, soup, pastries, gelato, sorbetto,<br />
smoothies, beer and wine. Open daily 7 AM to 7 PM.<br />
Simone’s Bar & Grill — La Vista Azul. Tel: 331-3031. Serving<br />
fresh seafood and local cuisine. Open daily 11 AM to 11 PM;<br />
weekends 7 AM to 11 PM. Popular bar!<br />
Skull Rock Cantina — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-4173. The place<br />
for Tex-Mex; daily drink specials. Open daily, 8 AM to Midnight.<br />
Solana! Restaurant — Ocean Club West. Tel: 946-5254.<br />
Oceanfront dining from sushi to burgers. Teppanyaki and Sushi<br />
Bar, engage with <strong>the</strong> chefs. Open daily 7:30 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Somewhere Café & Lounge — Coral Gardens Resort. Tel:<br />
941-8260. Casual dining with Tex-Mex flair right on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
Cocktails, beers, specialty drinks. Open early to late daily.<br />
Stelle — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Modern<br />
Mediterranean cuisine featuring fresh fish and seafood. Open 6<br />
to 10 PM daily, until 2 AM on Friday with DJ.<br />
Sui-Ren — The Shore Club. Tel: 339-8000. Inspired flavors <strong>of</strong><br />
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine with fresh seafood and organic<br />
produce in a unique setting. Open daily.<br />
Thai Orchid — The Regent Village. Tel: 946-4491. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic<br />
Thai cuisine; over 60 choices! Dine in or carry out. Open for<br />
lunch and dinner daily.<br />
Three Bro<strong>the</strong>rs Restaurant — Town Center Mall, Downtown.<br />
Tel: 232-4736. Seafood and native cuisine. Tuesday night buffet<br />
dinner. Catering services. Open daily, 7 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Tiki Hut Island Eatery — Dockside at Turtle Cove Inn. Tel:<br />
941-5341. Imaginative sandwiches, salads, seafood, Black<br />
Angus beef, pasta, pizzas, fish. Open daily 11 AM to 10 PM.<br />
Turkberry Frozen Yogurt — The Saltmills. Tel: 431-2233.<br />
Frozen yogurt in a variety <strong>of</strong> flavors, with a large selection <strong>of</strong><br />
toppings. Custom donut bar. Open 11 AM to 11 PM daily.<br />
Turks Kebab — At Craft Market on Sand Castle Drive. Tel: 431-<br />
9964. Turkish and Mediterranean fare. Salads, falafel, gyros,<br />
kebabs, hummus. Open for lunch and dinner.<br />
Via Veneto — Ports <strong>of</strong> Call. Tel: 941-2372. Au<strong>the</strong>ntic Italian<br />
dining in a stylish indoor/outdoor venue. Open from 5:30 PM to<br />
late. Closed Thursday. Saturday is Pizza Night!<br />
The Vix Bar & Grill — Regent Village. Tel: 941-4144. Highend,<br />
island-inspired world cuisine, fine wines. Open daily for<br />
breakfast, lunch and dinner. Available for meetings.<br />
Yoshi’s Sushi & Grill — The Saltmills. Tel: 941-3374/431-<br />
0012. Sushi bar menu plus Japanese cuisine. Open daily Noon<br />
to 3 PM; 6 to 10 PM. Closed Sunday. Dine indoors or out. Carry<br />
out available.<br />
Zest! — Gansevoort Turks + Caicos. Tel: 232-4444. Lunch and<br />
dinner beachfront. Taste <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean and Americas. Open<br />
daily Noon to 5 PM; 6 to 9 PM. Fisherman’s night Wednesday. a<br />
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