CR5 Issue 161 Oct 2018

Canada
Adventure on
Athabasca
By Solange Hando
Spreading out from the
‘Columbia’, the largest icefield
in the Rockies, Athabasca
is among the world’s most
accessible glaciers, a popular
day trip from Lake Louise,
Jasper or even Banff, though
this involves a longer drive.
Winding along the Continental
Divide, past soaring peaks,
forests, waterfalls and lakes,
the Icefields Parkway leads
almost to the very edge, near
the meeting point of the
Jasper and Banff National
Parks.
Up there the Discovery Centre
is the first point of call with
exhibits on the history and
movements of the ice and
the area’s natural world. It
is the perfect introduction
before tackling the day’s
adventure but one should
be prepared for changing
weather and high altitude,
with the glacier’s average
height around 3,000 metres.
There are walking trails for
the brave and well-organised
treats in season, led by
knowledgeable and highly
entertaining guides.
First on anyone’s list is the
award-winning skywalk, just a
five minute bus transfer from
the centre. Built into the rock,
carefully integrated into the
environment with near-zero
footprint, it begins along a
vertiginous cliff’s edge then
steps out on a semi-circular
look out with a glass floor,
perched 280 metres above
the valley. There you are,
suspended between heaven
and earth, the Sunwapta river
meandering far below, the red
craggy rocks almost within
arm’s reach, the soaring
birds, mighty glaciers and
snow-covered peaks rising all
around.
Even more exciting is the
iconic ride on one of the giant
Ice Explorers. The first few
minutes include a steep scary
descent on a stone track until
you reach the edge of the
Athabasca, a tongue of ice, six
km long and thicker in places
than the Eiffel Tower. Glacial
vistas, snowy mountains
etched into the sky, it’s like
the end of the world, even
though the Explorer can only
venture so far on the crunchy
surface. The ice is pure blue
in places as this is the only
colour it cannot absorb. Then
the ‘giant’ stops, giving you
ten minutes or so to walk
around the safe icy section.
No one ventures beyond the
danger cones for untouched
snow and ice are amazingly
thick, dotted with hidden
crevasses and water holes
where lives have been lost.
Sometimes a deep rumble
echoes in the thin mountain
air and you might spot an
avalanche tumbling down the
slope just ahead of you. Don’t
expect to be alone on the
glacier, it is highly popular, but
whatever the crowds, you can
switch off and commune with
the natural world, so mighty
and inspiring.
Visitors leaving before dusk
are likely to see bears and elks
close to the road, and those
on the way to Jasper might
enjoy the last rays of the sun
on the Athabasca waterfall.
Meanwhile, high above on the
edge of the glacier, the lucky
ones settle down in the lodge
for a starlit night. Strange
noises in the dark may remind
them that the Athabasca is
always on the move, receding
by around five metres a year.
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