Freeheeler Saison_Nachdruck_25.12.Low-res
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Colorado<br />
In 1979, my second year of skiing, my<br />
buddy Mike and I went on our first ever<br />
out-of-State ski trip. We were two 17<br />
year-olds from Los Angeles, wide-eyed,<br />
excited, and ready to try our hand at the<br />
famed Colorado Champagne Powder we<br />
read so much about in the ski magazines.<br />
Leaving our fleabag hotel in Downtown<br />
Denver, we hopped a bus that eventually<br />
dropped us in a sleepy Salida, gateway to<br />
the awesome Southern Colorado ski area<br />
of Monarch Mountain..<br />
Upon arrival, bleary-eyed, a strange silence<br />
surrounded us: there was no one<br />
around. Not a minute passed when the<br />
silence was shattered by an old blue<br />
Datsun pickup screeching around the<br />
the corner and then slamming to a stop<br />
in front of us. It was Brian, my childhood<br />
friend from Los Angeles, and recent <strong>res</strong>ident<br />
of Salida, this humble town next<br />
to the Arkansas River. Soon we were<br />
ensconced in Brian’s apartment, skiing<br />
powder at Monarch by day, chain-drinking<br />
Coors beer and eating frozen burritos<br />
from the 7-11 across the street, by night.<br />
Back in Salida in December 1979, Iran<br />
was very much in the news. And all of a<br />
sudden, very much in America’s collective<br />
consciousness. The US backed Shah<br />
was in exile and the Imam Khomeini<br />
had returned. The Shah was a puppet of<br />
the West, the Ayatollah proclaimed; and<br />
America, the Great Satan. Brian, Mike,<br />
and I watched the Iran Hostage Crisis<br />
on TV every night aprés ski, while empty<br />
Coors cans filled the corner in a growing<br />
mountain. Nowadays, the United States<br />
has the highest number of Iranians outside<br />
of Iran. Hundreds of thousands. But<br />
unlike my parents, most migrated immediately<br />
before and after the 1979 Iranian<br />
Revolution.<br />
Los Angeles<br />
One day many years later, hanging out<br />
with my dad and some of his friends, the<br />
subject of skiing and mountains came<br />
up. Sohrab, a kind of know-it-all Persian<br />
friend of my dad, proclaimed with<br />
certainty that Iran’s Mt. Damāvand is<br />
‘one of the ten highest mountains in the<br />
world!’<br />
I told him, ‘dude, you’ve been smoking<br />
too much taryak; no way is Damāvand<br />
one of the ten highest in the world.’ We<br />
went back and forth for awhile but in<br />
the end, Sohrab piqued my inte<strong>res</strong>t in<br />
Damāvand. Researching it later I read<br />
that Damāvand sits at a <strong>res</strong>pectable 5610<br />
meters, somewhere around 300th highest<br />
in the world, and that it is the highest<br />
volcano in Asia. But my dad quashed all<br />
thoughts of Damāvand with a ‘they-willthrow-you-in-the-army’<br />
warning if I ever<br />
got to Iran. Later still, I saw a picture of<br />
Damāvand: it looked like the perfect ski<br />
mountain.<br />
Switzerland<br />
Life moved on and I became disillusioned<br />
with Los Angeles. While the mountains<br />
and beaches of California were fantastic,<br />
and I got out skiing and surfing as much<br />
as I could, the metropolitan driving,<br />
amongst other things, started to get to<br />
me. Driving in Los Angeles sucks. It was<br />
bad back in 1990; it is much worse nowadays.<br />
I needed something more. Having spent<br />
a season in the Alps some years before, I<br />
realised what the ‘more’ was. I dreamed<br />
big mountain thoughts and thus I left<br />
Los Angeles on a one-way ticket to Switzerland.<br />
I had a thousand dollars cash.<br />
Five pairs of telemark skis, a snowboard,<br />
my Klein mountain bike, sleeping bag,<br />
tent, climbing gear and winter clothes.<br />
The whole thing, up and leaving just like<br />
that, was scary for sure. Kind of like what<br />
my dad did in 1958.<br />
Within two days of touching down in<br />
Europe - mid-October 1991 - I had sorted<br />
out the difficult task of finding a hidden<br />
flat spot in the fo<strong>res</strong>t adjacent to Verbier<br />
to pitch my tent. Mind you, camping<br />
wild in the fo<strong>res</strong>t is strictly forbidden,<br />
so I was happy to find my little niche behind<br />
a rock away from prying eyes. I met<br />
24. REPORTAGE<br />
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