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Historic Rio Grande Valley

An illustrated history of the Rio Grande Valley area, paired with the histories of companies, families and organizations that make the region great.

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HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

An Illustrated History<br />

by Marjorie Johnson<br />

A PUBLICATION OF THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY PARTNERSHIP


Thank you for your interest in this HPNbooks publication. For more information about other<br />

HPNbooks publications, or information about producing your own book with us, please visit www.hpnbooks.com.


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

An Illustrated History<br />

by Marjorie Johnson<br />

Published by the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

A division of Lammert Publications, Inc.<br />

San Antonio, Texas


✧<br />

The ruins of Revilla, renamed Guerrero in<br />

1828, emerge from the waters of the Falcon<br />

Reservoir during times of drought.<br />

First Edition<br />

Copyright © 2001 <strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,<br />

including photocopying, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network, 8491 Leslie Road, San Antonio, Texas, 78254. Phone (210) 688-9006.<br />

ISBN: 1-893619-22-2<br />

Library of Congress Card Catalog Number: 2001093392<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>: An Illustrated History<br />

author: Marjorie Johnson<br />

contributing writers for<br />

“sharing the heritage”: Marjorie Johnson<br />

Marie Beth Jones<br />

Eileen Mattei<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

president: Ron Lammert<br />

vice president & project coordinator: Barry Black<br />

project representatives: Roger Smith<br />

Pat Steele<br />

Rob Steidle<br />

director of operations: Charles A. Newton, III<br />

administration: Angela Lake<br />

Donna Mata<br />

Dee Steidle<br />

graphic production: Colin Hart<br />

John Barr<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

2


CONTENTS<br />

4 FOREWORD<br />

5 CHAPTER I early history<br />

23 CHAPTER II part of four nations<br />

35 CHAPTER III the valley takes shape<br />

51 CHAPTER IV taming a wild country<br />

73 CHAPTER V the Civil War to 1900<br />

95 CHAPTER VI the twentieth century dawns<br />

103 CHAPTER VII cities grow along the railroad<br />

159 CHAPTER VIII entering the twenty-first century<br />

191 BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

193 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS<br />

194 SHARING THE HERITAGE<br />

387 INDEX<br />

398 SPONSORS<br />

✧<br />

The Queen Isabella Causeway, longest<br />

bridge in Texas, spans 12,510 feet across<br />

the blue Laguna Madre from Port Isabel to<br />

South Padre Island. Pleasure boats that ply<br />

the Laguna’s peaceful waters and barge<br />

traffic on the Gulf Intracoastal Canal can<br />

move safely under the high causeway.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

3


FOREWORD<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY is a project of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership in conjunction with <strong>Historic</strong>al Publishing Network<br />

of San Antonio. Though it deals specifically with the four counties of Cameron, Hidalgo, Starr and Willacy that comprise the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, by necessity it deals with all of Texas and Mexico. Its purpose is to present in one volume the fascinating history of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> from the first explorations by Europeans to the dynamic and driving forces that have propelled it into the new millennium. It is<br />

written in a readable, informal style with historic and current illustrations to provide a permanent record of the area’s settlement, growth<br />

and progress.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is among the oldest and most historic areas of Texas. This relatively small region has lived through violent conflicts<br />

between early European settlers and Native Americans; witnessed battles that determined boundaries between rival nations of this<br />

continent; played a pivotal role in the Civil War; and spread the Spanish-Mexican cattle culture over Texas and the rest of the Southwest.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> (“Big River” for those who are not bilingual), now the border between the United States and Mexico, winds through the<br />

area’s past, present and future. Spanish Colonial settlements, the ranching economy, trade routes, military campaigns and agricultural development<br />

of the early 1900s were defined by the river. Through the years towns of the borderland became intertwined through shared values<br />

of family, friendship, health and economic livelihood to form the cultural continuity that exists between the U.S. and Mexico in this area.<br />

Long accessible to the rest of the world only by sea and river steamboat, today the border region is open to the world. And that world<br />

is just beginning to learn about the area’s past, its people, and what they created in this land. For those who want to know more about<br />

this unique area at the tip of Texas, this book relates a fascinating story in words and pictures of how it got to be the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

of today.<br />

The publication of this keepsake book with its hundreds of historic and current illustrations was made possible by those who share<br />

their own history in the Heritage section of the book. They are part of the region’s past, present, and future. The sponsor and publisher<br />

appreciate their participation and you are invited to share their heritage as you explore the pages of HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY.<br />

Bill Summers,<br />

President/CEO<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership<br />

✧<br />

A map of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership<br />

P.O. Box 1499<br />

Weslaco, TX 78599-1499<br />

Phone: (956) 968-3141<br />

Fax: (956) 968-0210<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

4


EARLY HISTORY<br />

THE<br />

RIVER<br />

The international stream known as the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in the United States and Río Bravo del Norte<br />

in Mexico has played an important part in the area since long before recorded history.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> rises on the eastern face of the Continental Divide in southern Colorado. It<br />

winds eastward across southern Colorado and turns southward to cut across the whole length of<br />

New Mexico. Then it turns southeastward, except for the immense deviation known as the Big<br />

Bend, forming the boundary between Texas and Mexico.<br />

Along its way the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> receives few tributaries for so long a river. In Texas and Mexico<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> Concho renews the river as it is about to die in the desert. The Pecos River, Devil’s River,<br />

and Río Salado are additional tributaries, as is the Río San Juan south of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, its last<br />

tributary as it winds its way toward the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

The romance and legends of the river have intrigued many writers through the years. Perhaps<br />

the most complete study was made by Paul Horgan, a Pulitzer Prize winner, for his monumental<br />

work, Great River—The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in North American History, first published in 1954. In explaining<br />

the length of his 945-page, two-volume work, Horgan said:<br />

✧<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> (known as Río Bravo in<br />

Mexico) as seen from the historic plaza at<br />

Roma on its winding route along the U.S.-<br />

Mexico border to the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

COURTESY OF CRAIG WIEGAND.<br />

The river is nearly two thousand miles long. Its historical course takes us through something over ten<br />

centuries of time and through the chronicles of three cultures. To do it anything like justice, I have<br />

wanted to produce a historical experience rather than a bare record.<br />

That is what the publishers of this work hope to provide: A historical experience in words<br />

and pictures.<br />

The story of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> is as varied as the meandering of its current. Yet this winding, sometimes<br />

treacherous and always muddy stream is the lifeblood of this fertile area. From it stems the<br />

region’s heritage, agriculture, and industry, as well as the water supply for its people.<br />

THE<br />

LAND<br />

On a map of the United States, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> hardly shows. Even on a Texas map it is a small<br />

part of a large state. Yet it has a fascinating history and has been of great importance in the life of<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

5


two nations. This work is designed to give a<br />

unique view of the region’s past as part of New<br />

Spain, Mexico, the Republic of Texas, and the<br />

United States as it enters the twenty-first century.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is located in the<br />

southern tip of Texas and consists of the lands<br />

along the north bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in<br />

Starr, Hidalgo, Cameron, and Willacy<br />

Counties, covering 4,244 square miles. This is<br />

the region specifically considered in this<br />

book, although other parts of Texas and<br />

Mexico are included as they affect its history.<br />

Though called a “valley,” it is really a fertile<br />

flood plain, delta, and associated uplands of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. It is bounded on the east by<br />

the Laguna Madre, South Padre Island, and<br />

the Gulf of Mexico, on the west by Zapata<br />

County, on the north by Jim Hogg, Brooks,<br />

and Kenedy Counties, and on the south by<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the international boundary<br />

between the United States and Mexico.<br />

moderating effect on <strong>Valley</strong> temperatures. In<br />

general, summer highs are hotter and winter<br />

lows are cooler as the distance from the Gulf<br />

increases. Humidity is relatively high, with a<br />

daily average of 40 to 50 percent and a nightly<br />

average of about 90 percent.<br />

In the early part of its history, the land area<br />

was mostly covered with a dense growth of<br />

cactus, thorny shrubs and trees, including<br />

mesquite, huisache, and retama, and for a long<br />

time was considered unfit for settlement.<br />

When Stephen F. Austin passed through the<br />

area in 1823 on his way to Mexico City, he<br />

described the region as follows:<br />

The country between the Nueces and the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> is the poorest I ever saw in my life.<br />

It is generally nothing but sand, entirely void<br />

of lumber, covered with scrubby thorn bushes<br />

and prickly pear.<br />

The pages that follow document the region’s<br />

transition from wild chapparal country, with its<br />

thorny, low growing plants, into the irrigated<br />

farmlands and modern cities of today.<br />

THE<br />

COAHUILTECANS<br />

✧<br />

The land was covered with a dense growth<br />

of cactus, mesquite, and thorny shrubs.<br />

For a long time it was considered unfit<br />

for settlement.<br />

It is a smooth, nearly flat, coastal plain with<br />

a slope to the northeast, away from the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> and toward the Gulf. Elevations range<br />

from sea level at the Laguna Madre to five<br />

hundred feet in the hilly areas of Starr County.<br />

Geologically, the <strong>Valley</strong>’s surface land is still in<br />

its youth, with sand, silt, and clay deposits of<br />

recent ages, which overlie more ancient fluvial<br />

deposits. Most of the soils are level, naturally<br />

fertile, easily cultivated, and suitable for irrigation.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> has a sub-tropical,<br />

semi-arid climate, characterized by short,<br />

mild winters and long, hot summers. The<br />

moisture-laden air from the Gulf has a<br />

Wandering tribes of nomadic Indians roamed<br />

the vast expanses of South Texas long before the<br />

Spaniards came. However, there were no wellestablished,<br />

permanent settlements as were<br />

found in the pueblo settlements of the upper <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> and other parts of the Southwest.<br />

Compared with such tribes, these natives were<br />

among the most primitive inhabitants of the<br />

continent. Called Coahuiltecans by scholars,<br />

they were related to the storied Karankawas of<br />

the upper Texas Gulf Coast. They were divided<br />

into several subgroups, of which the most<br />

numerous were the Carrizos.<br />

Bands within the groups consisted of up to<br />

two hundred individuals, but there was little<br />

social and economic cohesiveness. Their main<br />

occupation was finding enough food to eat.<br />

Their lives were affected greatly by the South<br />

Texas environment. Since no large animals<br />

inhabited the area, they depended on smaller<br />

animals such as deer, antelope, small javelinas,<br />

rabbits, and rodents. Those living along the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, Salado, and San Juan Rivers often<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

6


supplemented their diets with fish taken with<br />

bow and arrow or nets. Most of their diet was<br />

vegetarian, however, with their staples being<br />

prickly pear, tuna, and mesquite beans. Large<br />

quantities of the beans were often gathered<br />

and thrown into a hole dug in the ground,<br />

where they were pounded with a wooden club<br />

into pulp.<br />

They consumed mescal, a potent<br />

intoxicating drink made from the leaves of<br />

agave, and drank a “tea” made from the peyote<br />

cactus, dried and ground into powder. They<br />

also ate peyote, both green and dried. Though<br />

neither a narcotic nor habit forming, it had a<br />

hallucinatory effect and was commonly used<br />

in religious ceremonies. It is still gathered by<br />

area natives and sold legally to members of the<br />

Native American Church in South Texas.<br />

The tribes engaged in intense warfare with<br />

each other, and feuds among tribal leaders were<br />

quite common. Combat usually consisted of<br />

small battles employing hit and run techniques,<br />

similar to the guerrilla warfare of the modern era.<br />

When the Spanish colonies were settled on<br />

the southern banks of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, some<br />

of the Indians were hostile, but others<br />

accepted the colonizers and welcomed the<br />

missions, where they lived and farmed under<br />

the supervision and protection of the priests.<br />

Such a mission was established near what<br />

was first called Revilla and later Guerrero.<br />

Called Ampuero, it was under the supervision<br />

of Fray Miguel Santa María de los Dolores,<br />

who described in detail some of the customs<br />

of the Indians. One of his stories relates to the<br />

mourning habits of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Indians:<br />

When an Indian mother lost a son, daughter<br />

or husband by death, she would go to some<br />

isolated place, taking with her other women of<br />

her household. In this place of seclusion, the<br />

women would pull out their hair and with the<br />

extraction of each strand would give a piercing<br />

scream, all others present joining in the<br />

outburst. This lasted days and weeks or as long<br />

as the pain caused by the loss of the deceased<br />

lasted, and the results were not a thing of beauty.<br />

The priest added that, in the case of a widow, as<br />

soon as someone else appeared to court her, that<br />

sorrow was soon forgotten and all effort used to<br />

again make herself attractive.<br />

He also described their successful methods<br />

of hunting: While hunting land animals they<br />

used great craftiness by forming a big circle<br />

over a larger area in the woods and slowly<br />

closed in around all the game. By this method<br />

they were able to kill a great deal of game.<br />

A cunning way was used to secure ducks.<br />

Placing baskets over their heads, they would<br />

dive under the water and reach up and grab<br />

the ducks by their feet, thereby catching all<br />

that were needed in a very short time.<br />

Contact with the Spaniards in the<br />

seventeenth and eighteenth centuries brought<br />

great disaster to the Coahuiltecans. Disease<br />

brought to the New World by the Spaniards,<br />

especially smallpox, spread to the Indians and<br />

destroyed entire bands and villages.<br />

Though some of the natives mixed and<br />

mingled with the Spanish settlers, the majority of<br />

the Coahuiltecans refused to settle and continued<br />

their nomadic lives until decimated by war,<br />

disease or both. By 1850, only a few of the once<br />

numerous Carrizo remained along the banks of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Numerous pieces of pottery,<br />

stone tools, and campfire sites remain as evidence<br />

of the Coahuiltecans and their ancestors.<br />

THE FIERCE KARANKAWAS<br />

The Karankawas, those distant cousins of the<br />

Coahuiltecans, were a fierce five-tribe nation of<br />

✧<br />

The lifestyle and artifacts of Coahuiltecan<br />

Indians who once lived in the area are<br />

depicted in this exhibit at the Hidalgo<br />

County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum, Edinburg.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

7


coastal Indians whose greatest claim to fame was<br />

their practice of cannibalism. The men were<br />

giants in size, fine physical specimens ranging in<br />

height from six to seven feet. Their facial features<br />

were grotesque and their hair was as coarse as<br />

that of horses and worn long, often reaching to<br />

the waist. The women, worn by the drudgery of<br />

their lives, looked sullen and morose. They were<br />

fat, plain and even in youth not pretty.<br />

Numbering only a few thousand at any one time,<br />

they were scattered over some three hundred<br />

miles of Texas coastline from Matagorda Bay to<br />

the southern tip of Padre Island.<br />

They usually traveled in bands of 30 to 40<br />

people, seldom remaining in one place more than<br />

a month. They used little fleets of crude pirogues<br />

to move from island to island along the coast in<br />

search of food. Their main diet was fish, along<br />

with clams, mussels, tortoises, and alligators that<br />

they managed to catch in the rivers.<br />

In the spring they moved away from the<br />

fishing waters of the Gulf, going inland where<br />

there were wild dewberries, blackberries and<br />

mulberries to be had for the picking. The<br />

outing was in the nature of a picnic—the<br />

Indians remained in the woods for weeks,<br />

gorging themselves, dancing and enjoying the<br />

warm spring weather. With no permanent<br />

settlement to call home and no cultivated fields<br />

to maintain, the nomads spent their summers<br />

roaming from place to place; the men fishing<br />

and hunting, the women “grubbing for truffles.”<br />

Though engaged in constant struggles with<br />

the white men as they pushed their way into their<br />

domain, the “Kronks,” as they were called, did<br />

accept the Franciscan padres, who built four<br />

missions in a futile attempt to tame and<br />

Christianize them. The padres continually sought<br />

to bring the Indians into the various missions to<br />

teach them both religion and the delights of<br />

common labor. However, it proved an impossible<br />

task as the Kronks were interested in neither.<br />

In 1768 Fray José de Solís visited the region<br />

and wrote a vivid description of the<br />

Karankawas and their brother tribesmen from<br />

the coastal areas:<br />

These Indians are dirty, foul smelling, and<br />

pestiferous, and throw off such a bad odor<br />

from their bodies that it makes one sick. The<br />

men are keen-witted and shrewd and go about<br />

stark naked. They are cruel, inhuman and<br />

ferocious. They are so greedy that they eat<br />

meat almost raw, parboiled, or half-roasted<br />

and dripping with blood. They look upon<br />

their wives as simple instruments of pleasure<br />

in which the heart takes no part, not paying<br />

them the slightest attention.<br />

The Karankawas naturally resented the<br />

colonists and adventurers who confiscated land<br />

that the Indians had long considered their own,<br />

and they had trouble with almost everyone who<br />

crossed their path. This included the pirate Jean<br />

Lafitte when he attempted to establish his<br />

empire on Galveston Island in the early 1800s.<br />

They put up such a fight for their tribal land<br />

that the pirates called them “demons from hell.”<br />

According to available records, only<br />

approximately 250 Karankawas remained<br />

✧<br />

The fierce Karankawas lived along the<br />

seacoast and traveled in dugout canoes.<br />

There are many legends about these early<br />

inhabitants of the Texas coast.<br />

COURTESY OF THE PORT ISABEL HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

8


when the Texas colonists revolted against<br />

Mexico in 1836. Having lost most of the land<br />

over which they once roamed, they continued<br />

their wanderings along the coast and up and<br />

down the beaches of Padre Island, gradually<br />

sliding into extinction. There are many legends<br />

about these fierce natives, who established<br />

a niche for themselves by the obstacles<br />

they tossed in the paths of those who were<br />

attempting to bring civilization to the area.<br />

EARLY EUROPEAN<br />

EXPLORATIONS<br />

It was 1519, twenty-seven years after<br />

Columbus’ first voyage, before Hernán Cortés<br />

headed for the mainland of what became New<br />

Spain and then Mexico. As the Spaniards<br />

conquered the larger islands of Hispaniola,<br />

Cuba, and Jamaica, they established Spanishstyle<br />

governments, subjugated the natives, and<br />

tried to Christianize them. Cortés had sailed<br />

from Spain to Hispaniola in 1504 when he was<br />

only nineteen. There he settled as a farmer and<br />

public notary in a small town near Santo<br />

Domingo. He must have seen friends and<br />

neighbors sailing for glorious conquests and<br />

dreamed of such glory for himself. In 1511 he<br />

accompanied Diego Velásquez in his expedition<br />

to Cuba, where he became alcalde of Santiago<br />

for several years. Velásquez sent him to explore<br />

what is now Mexico in February 1519, and his<br />

great adventure began.<br />

Meanwhile, the Spanish governors of other<br />

island kingdoms had their own dreams of<br />

further conquests. In 1519, Francisco de Garay,<br />

who had been with Columbus on his second<br />

voyage, was the wealthy and ambitious governor<br />

of Jamaica. A strong rivalry had developed<br />

between Garay and Cortés, and Garay wanted to<br />

lay claim to some of the unexplored coast before<br />

Cortés claimed all of it. He sent an expedition of<br />

four vessels under the command of Alvarez de<br />

Piñeda to explore and lay claim to the area.<br />

Piñeda sailed north by Cuba and followed<br />

the Gulf coast toward the west, making detailed<br />

notes on the land, bays and rivers, the natives<br />

and the vegetation. He reached Veracruz in<br />

August, only to learn that Cortés had already<br />

been there. When Cortés learned of the arrival<br />

of this expedition, he feared the intruders would<br />

interfere with his conquest and occupation of<br />

Mexico. With some of his men he marched to<br />

where Piñeda’s ships were anchored and<br />

captured seven of the newcomers who had gone<br />

ashore. Piñeda didn’t stay around to meet Cortés<br />

personally, but sailed away to the north.<br />

RÍO DE LAS PALMAS<br />

After leaving Veracruz, Piñeda did not stop<br />

until he reached a “very large river” where there<br />

were many palms. He named it “Río de las<br />

Palmas” and went ashore to claim the land for<br />

Spain. His ships entered the mouth of this stream,<br />

where they spent forty days repairing the ships<br />

and exploring the country. A party of Spaniards<br />

went upstream about eighteen miles, where they<br />

found forty mud and reed Indian huts. The<br />

expedition then sailed back to Governor Garay<br />

with glowing reports of their findings and said the<br />

land was suitable for colonization.<br />

Because of the sabal palm jungle along the<br />

mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, most historians<br />

have considered Piñeda’s river to be the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. In recent years, however, many<br />

believe that what Piñeda saw was the mouth<br />

of the Río Soto la Marina, some 120 miles<br />

south of the larger <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

Either way, it was in the neighborhood, and<br />

Governor Garay believed it was his destiny to<br />

establish a colony in his new territory. The<br />

following year, he got permission from the King<br />

to mount another expedition, and early in the<br />

✧<br />

Above: Spanish ships plied the seas in<br />

the early 1500s and explorers often<br />

competed with each other to claim new<br />

lands for Spain.<br />

COURTESY OF THE TREASURES OF THE GULF MUSEUM,<br />

PORT ISABEL, TEXAS.<br />

Below: Hernán Cortés feared the explorers<br />

under Piñeda would interfere with his<br />

conquering and occupying all of Mexico.<br />

This portrait was taken from Historia<br />

de Mexico.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

9


✧<br />

This Piñeda tablet found by local Naval<br />

reservists looking for Civil War relics at<br />

Boca Chica Beach. It was buried several feet<br />

down under the remains of two wooden<br />

boats. Now on display in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Museum, Harlingen, it has aroused much<br />

historical interest.<br />

summer of 1520 he sent Diego de Camargo to<br />

establish a permanent settlement. This<br />

expedition had three ships, 150 infantrymen,<br />

seven cavalrymen, brass cannon, a supply of<br />

brick and lime, and several masons. Camargo<br />

was to supervise the building of a fort at the<br />

mouth of the Río de las Palmas, from which<br />

missionaries would be sent to convert the native<br />

tribes and to keep Cortés from claiming the area.<br />

Historians agree that this expedition reached<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Camargo sailed upriver about<br />

twenty miles and found the native inhabitants<br />

friendly. These natives, however, soon tired of<br />

their visitors when they made demands for food,<br />

shelter, and women and decided to drive them<br />

away. Camargo tried to punish them, but was<br />

defeated, losing his horses and eighteen of his<br />

men. The remainder reached their ships and,<br />

pursued by hundreds of canoes filled with angry<br />

natives, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the<br />

river. One ship sank in the river and the other<br />

two were old and worm-eaten. Some of the<br />

strongest men decided to head for Veracruz<br />

overland. One ship reached Veracruz, but it<br />

sank three days later. Camargo, who was a<br />

former governor of Jamaica, and sixty of the<br />

survivors got permission from the commanding<br />

officer at Veracruz to march to Mexico City,<br />

where they joined Cortés.<br />

Still dreaming of establishing the colony of<br />

“Garay” and assuming that Camargo had built<br />

his fort at the mouth of the river, Garay<br />

organized a third voyage, which he led himself.<br />

The king of Spain had granted his request to<br />

establish a settlement in the land explored by<br />

Piñeda. He was directed to choose locations<br />

with a healthful climate not subject to floods<br />

and to give the natives instruction in the<br />

Catholic faith. By early summer of 1523, Garay<br />

was ready to head for the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. He had sixteen vessels and 600 men,<br />

among them prominent residents of Jamaica<br />

and Cuba, supplies of provisions, 200 guns,<br />

300 crossbows, and several pieces of artillery.<br />

On St. James Day, July 25, 1523, his<br />

expedition sailed through a pass between two<br />

long islands, today’s Brazos Santiago Pass. To<br />

Garay’s surprise, no fort was found. An officer<br />

was sent upriver to find a site for the settlement,<br />

but returned after four days with the report that<br />

there were native villages further up, but the<br />

land was not suitable for a settlement. Though<br />

this was not true, Garay believed him. He<br />

commanded that four hundred of his men and<br />

all of his horses be landed so he could lead<br />

them overland to the Panuco River near<br />

present-day Tampico, where they would meet<br />

the ships and the rest of the men.<br />

The explorers encountered many<br />

difficulties on the long march across rivers<br />

and marshes. Horses drowned, hostile Indians<br />

attacked the men, mosquitoes and other<br />

tropical insects harassed them, and some of<br />

the men threatened mutiny. When they finally<br />

arrived at the Panuco, they fell into the hands<br />

of Cortés. Though treated with courtesy and<br />

allowed to spend time in Cortés’ home, the<br />

broken-hearted Garay died in less than a year.<br />

ANOTHER FAILED<br />

EXPEDITION<br />

While in Mexico, Garay met an old friend,<br />

Pánfilo de Narváez, who had been defeated<br />

and imprisoned by Cortés. Feeling sorry for<br />

this friend, he interceded with his captor,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

10


equesting that Narváez be allowed to return<br />

to Cuba. Feeling that neither man could<br />

endanger his interests, Cortés agreed, gave his<br />

prisoner his freedom and bid him Godspeed.<br />

Tradition has it that, after Narváez was<br />

released from prison, he and the remnant of<br />

his men set out for Cuba. But Father Zamora<br />

and five officers gave up further plans to<br />

travel with Narváez and settled in Peñitas, just<br />

west of Mission, in the early 1520s, making<br />

Peñitas one of the oldest settlements in the<br />

United States. The refugees were befriended<br />

by Indians living in huts and dugout-type<br />

homes in the vicinity. But the Spaniards<br />

erected stone houses with whitewashed walls.<br />

Father Zamora brought the Catholic faith to<br />

the Indians, also teaching them weaving and<br />

better farming while the Indians taught<br />

cookery to their guests. Some of the<br />

descendants of this small band of refugees still<br />

live in the area and recall the stories handed<br />

down through the centuries, though no<br />

physical evidence remains of the early<br />

settlement in present-day Peñitas.<br />

As soon as he reached Cuba, Narváez started<br />

planning another journey to explore Florida and<br />

the Gulf Coast. This turned out to be the most<br />

disastrous expedition of all. Narváez left Cuba in<br />

1527 with sixteen ships and 750 men, among<br />

them Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, comptroller<br />

and royal treasurer. Their ships got lost, then<br />

shipwrecked, and for seven long years nothing<br />

was heard of Narváez. Then in 1536, north of<br />

Culiacán, Mexico, a Spanish slave-gathering<br />

expedition came upon four starving, almost<br />

naked and destitute men. The leader of the party<br />

was none other than Cabeza de Vaca. With him<br />

were Alonso del Castillo Maldonado, Andrés<br />

Dorantes, and Estevanico, a black Moorish slave<br />

belonging to Dorantes. They were the only<br />

survivors of the ill-fated Narváez expedition.<br />

They recounted one of the great adventures<br />

of all time. Shipwrecked on Galveston Island,<br />

they were passed from native tribe to tribe,<br />

sometimes as slaves, at other times sought<br />

after. In the seven years of their wanderings<br />

they saw no sign of white men. In their<br />

travels, they passed through the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. They had an opportunity to observe<br />

the natives who lived in the area, finding<br />

them no better than the barbarous tribesmen<br />

who had mistreated them all along their<br />

torturous journey.<br />

ORDER COMES TO<br />

NEW SPAIN<br />

Once the conquest of New Spain was<br />

accomplished, King Carlos I knew a more<br />

orderly government was needed than could<br />

be provided by Cortés and the interim<br />

government in Mexico City of the audencia, a<br />

court of judges. A viceroy, a personal<br />

representative of the crown appointed by the<br />

king to govern a territory, was needed.<br />

Fortunately, he chose Antonio de Mendoza as<br />

the first viceroy in 1535, and he served until<br />

1550. A man of exceptional background and<br />

talents, he established the basic foundation of<br />

colonial government in New Spain.<br />

He desired to preserve the Indian class<br />

structure and advocated proper food and<br />

clothing, decent wages, and protection of their<br />

health. The Indians used human burden<br />

carriers as they had no beasts of burden. Nor<br />

did they have the wheel. Mendoza gradually<br />

eliminated the custom through the introduction<br />

of beasts of burden, carts, and road<br />

construction. Agriculture was encouraged, and<br />

the livestock of the Spaniards was introduced<br />

—horses, mules, oxen, cows, sheep, goats and<br />

pigs. A cattle association was formed as early as<br />

1542. Gold and silver mines were developed, as<br />

the primary interest of the Spanish Crown lay in<br />

the wealth they could produce.<br />

To Mendoza belongs the honor of setting<br />

up the first printing press in the New World.<br />

Early religious publications were followed<br />

by books on mathematics, physics, navigation<br />

and law codes, all before 1600. He was also a<br />

strong advocate of education and supported<br />

Franciscan Bishop Juan de Zumarraga in his<br />

efforts to establish a university, which was<br />

founded in 1553, two years after the viceroy<br />

had left his Mexican post. Nevertheless, he<br />

deserves to be listed among the founders of<br />

the present-day National University of<br />

Mexico, which, along with the University of<br />

San Marcos in Lima, Peru, are the oldest<br />

universities in the Americas.<br />

During the three hundred year colonial<br />

period, New Spain was to have sixty-two<br />

✧<br />

The Spaniards became very demanding of<br />

the natives who, though friendly at first,<br />

soon tired of their visitors and their<br />

demands. The natives attacked the<br />

Spaniards, driving them back to their ships.<br />

COURTESY OF THE TREASURES OF THE GULF MUSEUM,<br />

PORT ISABEL, TEXAS.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

11


✧<br />

Above: A member of the failed Narvaez<br />

expedition, Alvar Núñez Cabeza de Vaca<br />

was shipwrecked on Galveston Island. After<br />

seven years he and three companions made<br />

their way across Texas and into Mexico.<br />

What a story they had to tell!<br />

Below: Twenty heavily loaded ships that<br />

sailed from Veracruz for Spain in 1553<br />

were buffeted by wind and rain. A large<br />

part of the fleet, spars broken and sails<br />

carried away, was grounded on the<br />

sandbars off Padre Island.<br />

COURTESY OF THE TREASURES OF THE GULF MUSEUM,<br />

PORT ISABEL, TEXAS.<br />

viceroys, some of whom were good choices<br />

while other unfortunate selections were<br />

corrupt and incompetent. But under<br />

Mendoza’s leadership, New Spain was<br />

launched on an orderly course from which<br />

grew the great colonial civilization of Mexico,<br />

which is the foundation of the bicultural<br />

heritage of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

THE GREAT SHIPWRECK<br />

OFF PADRE ISLAND<br />

On an early summer day in 1553, a fleet<br />

stood at anchor by the waterfront of Veracruz.<br />

Twenty vessels with 2,000 passengers,<br />

among them some of the most illustrious<br />

names in New Spain, were sailing for home,<br />

loaded with gold and silver bars and casks of<br />

precious cargo.<br />

Finally all the cargo was loaded and<br />

everything was in readiness, so the vessels set out<br />

across the Gulf, docking at Havana for provisions<br />

and visits with their New World friends.<br />

When the time came for them to depart,<br />

there was a fanfare of trumpets as the treasure<br />

flotilla hauled up anchors and the travelers<br />

waved their last farewells to friends on shore.<br />

Among those on the ships were some of the<br />

old conquistadores, merchants with their<br />

families, colonists returning after years in<br />

Mexico, and the beautiful Doña Juána Ponce<br />

de León. Their savings, belongings, tax money<br />

for the King, and tons of bulky cargo were<br />

stuffed tight in the holds.<br />

But the flotilla had lingered too long in<br />

Havana, and when it prepared to sail the<br />

hurricane season was well upon them. On the<br />

second morning out of port, the first ominous<br />

warnings of trouble were noted. By noon the<br />

next day, heavy clouds blotted out the sun,<br />

and rain closed in fast, drenching the deck<br />

hands as they scrambled through their storm<br />

preparations. The wind rose to a howling gale,<br />

lashing the ships with awesome fury. Three of<br />

the heavily laden vessels quickly floundered<br />

and sank, losing all aboard. Five ships made it<br />

to safety: one managed to return to Cuba,<br />

three limped back to Spain six months later,<br />

and one fought its way back to Veracruz. The<br />

rest of the fleet, spars broken and sails carried<br />

away, was driven swiftly across the Gulf of<br />

Mexico and grounded on the sandbars off<br />

Padre Island, somewhere between Corpus<br />

Christi and Brazos Santiago Pass.<br />

Only three hundred of those on board<br />

reached shore and, as they thought, safety. The<br />

rest drowned, a fate more kindly than the one<br />

that awaited the survivors. The strongest swam<br />

in and made their way through the breakers.<br />

Some improvised rafts, and those too weak to<br />

help themselves were washed in and pulled<br />

from the surf by those on shore. There was not<br />

an Indian village, not a living thing except the<br />

white gulls overhead—only a sandy waste.<br />

They did have one lucky break when cartons of<br />

bacon and casks of sea biscuit washed in from<br />

the ships, along with two good crossbows, five<br />

quivers of arrows and several swords.<br />

The 300 rested for six days on the beach<br />

and saw no living soul, but on the seventh<br />

morning they awoke to find themselves<br />

surrounded by naked, hideously painted,<br />

brown men of huge stature. They were<br />

Karankawa Indians and were friendly at first,<br />

but then started shooting arrows at them. The<br />

Spaniards tried to fight back with their<br />

crossbows, but were no match for their<br />

tormentors. The wretched refugees then<br />

moved along the beach, slipping from dune to<br />

dune, hunted all the way down to the end of<br />

the Island, tortured and finally killed by their<br />

pursuers. A few of the Spaniards reached the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

12


mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, near Brownsville<br />

and crossed over to the mainland, still<br />

pursued by the savages.<br />

Only two of the 300 survived the terrible<br />

ordeal and lived to tell about it. Francisco<br />

Vásquez, who had doubled back to the shipwrecks<br />

under cover of darkness, stayed with<br />

the broken ships. He survived by eating<br />

seafood. He also found he could get fresh<br />

water by digging with his hands or a piece of<br />

driftwood, and this saved his life. He had<br />

been at the docks when the valuable cargo<br />

was loaded, and knew that eventually the<br />

Spaniards would come looking for the<br />

wrecks. It was half a year later that the salvage<br />

ships came, and Vásquez was a great help to<br />

them while they raised much of the cargo<br />

with grappling hooks. His share made him a<br />

wealthy man, and he enjoyed a long life.<br />

Fray Marcos de Mena was the other survivor.<br />

He had six arrows in his body, one in an<br />

eye, but he pulled them out and struggled on<br />

with the help of his companions. Finally,<br />

when he could go no further, he begged his<br />

friends to leave him to die. He lapsed into a<br />

coma and his companions laid him in the<br />

shade and covered him with sand, leaving<br />

only his head exposed. When he awoke, he<br />

followed the tracks of the others until he came<br />

to their bodies. He trudged ahead for days<br />

until he finally reached a stream near Panuco<br />

where friendly Indians found him and took<br />

him to their camp. They nursed him back to<br />

strength, and eventually he was able to return<br />

to his people to tell the sad story of the death<br />

march of his companions.<br />

THE SEARCH FOR INTRUDERS<br />

coast. In 1684 the French nobleman, La Salle,<br />

was driven westward by storms while searching<br />

for the mouth of the Mississippi, where he<br />

hoped to plant a colony. He landed on the<br />

coast of Texas near Lavaca Bay, where he<br />

established his fort, but it soon failed from<br />

dissension among the men and raids by<br />

Indians. Alonzo de León was sent from<br />

Cadereyta to find the settlement, but he failed<br />

to go far enough on his first three tries.<br />

Finally, on his fourth expedition he succeeded<br />

in locating the ruins of the French colony. The<br />

Spaniards realized that the French were no<br />

longer a threat, and another hundred years<br />

would go by before they got serious about colonizing<br />

the untamed area north of the Panuco<br />

called Seno Mexicano.<br />

THE ESCANDÓN<br />

COLONIZATION<br />

✧<br />

At first the shipwreck survivors were treated<br />

kindly by the Karankawa Indians, but soon<br />

they began to torment the wretched refugees<br />

until only 2 of 300 survived. This mural was<br />

painted by Ramon Claudio in Raymondville.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HARDING.<br />

In 1638 rumors spread that a group of<br />

strange men had landed on the coast to the<br />

northeast, in what is now Texas. The Indians<br />

reported that these intruders had blonde<br />

beards and hair, wore red socks and steel plate<br />

armor and had powerful guns. This alarmed<br />

the rulers of both Spain and New Spain, but<br />

search parties that were sent out to find<br />

encroachers found nothing.<br />

France gave the Spaniards their greatest<br />

cause for alarm, and rumors of their activities<br />

resulted in several expeditions to the Texas<br />

It was 1743, or more than two hundred<br />

years after the first viceroy came to Mexico<br />

City, that Spain made plans to tame the long<br />

ignored wild lands of northern Mexico. The<br />

responsibility for selecting a leader for the subjugation<br />

and settlement of these lands was delegated<br />

to the Audiencia de México (the highest<br />

court). The boundaries of the province, which<br />

they named Nuevo Santander, were defined:<br />

Tampico on the south; La Bahía del Espíritu<br />

Santo at the mouth of the San Antonio River<br />

on the north; the Gulf of Mexico on the east;<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

13


✧<br />

Above: José de Escandón, count of Sierra<br />

Gorda, the father of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Below: Texas historical marker beside U.S.<br />

281 west of Brownsville tells of the Alonzo<br />

de León expeditions from 1686-1688 in<br />

search of the French settlement of Fort St.<br />

Louis in the Matagorda Bay area. The<br />

remains were finally discovered and<br />

destroyed. De León led an expedition into<br />

Southeast Texas in 1690 that established the<br />

area’s first Spanish mission, San Francisco<br />

de los Tejas, and eventually led to Spain’s<br />

great enterprise of colonizing Texas.<br />

and the Sierra Madre Mountains on the west.<br />

Thus it included the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Therefore, the organization of this province<br />

is a major force in the history of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Lands on both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> were a part of Nuevo Santander from<br />

1746 to 1821.<br />

The Audiencia realized how important it<br />

was to select just the right person for this<br />

mammoth undertaking. Several leaders of the<br />

frontier applied for the post and presented<br />

plans for the colonization. In 1746 they found<br />

their man, and by all records it was an<br />

excellent choice.<br />

He was José de Escandón, a native of Spain<br />

born at Soto de Marina in 1700 into a<br />

distinguished family. At fifteen he had left his<br />

home, crossed the Atlantic, and enlisted in the<br />

Spanish army as a cadet, serving first in the<br />

Yucatán and then in Querétaro, where he married<br />

into a noble family. He advanced through the<br />

ranks to colonel, then was named conde (count)<br />

de Sierra Gorda. He was especially noted for<br />

subduing barbarous tribes of Indians and then<br />

treating them with consideration, permitting no<br />

outrages against them.<br />

It was from Querétaro, his headquarters for<br />

twenty years, that he organized his expedition<br />

to subjugate the Indians and colonize the vast<br />

reaches of Seno Mexicano, which became the<br />

province of Nuevo Santander. It covered what<br />

today includes Tamaulipas, part of Nuevo León,<br />

and much of South Texas. An efficient colonizer<br />

and strong leader, he inspired confidence and<br />

respect in those he met. He spent almost two<br />

years preparing a survey expedition, and in the<br />

last months of 1746 completed preparations for<br />

the journey. Escandón left Querétaro on<br />

January 7, 1747 with a military detail of one<br />

captain, two sergeants, ten soldiers, several<br />

servants, a surgeon, two Spanish missionaries,<br />

and a large amount of equipment and food. His<br />

party traveled east and north toward the mouth<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

Meanwhile, seven divisions, consisting of a<br />

total of 765 soldiers, proceeded from seven<br />

points on the frontier, all bound for the<br />

mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, where they were<br />

scheduled to meet about February 24, 1747.<br />

Three divisions came out of the south and<br />

three from the provinces on the west. One<br />

came down from the mission of La Bahía del<br />

Espíritu Santo at the northern edge of Seno<br />

Mexicano, for they wanted to explore the<br />

territory between San Antonio and the Nueces<br />

and on to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. It is said that up to<br />

that time, many thought the Nueces and the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> were the same stream.<br />

Escandón was to await his men somewhere<br />

near the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, where they<br />

would map the region and make future plans.<br />

Indian chieftains along the way made friendly<br />

advances to Escandón, who then employed<br />

them as scouts for the expedition. One of<br />

these, Chief Santiago, directed the party to a<br />

campsite on the south bank of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, where the colonizer spent several<br />

weeks receiving his captains and studying<br />

their findings.<br />

Six of the scouting parties reached him<br />

near the scheduled time. The group from the<br />

north missed the route and crossed upstream<br />

at El Cantaro Ford near Mier. Messengers<br />

from Escandón’s headquarters accepted their<br />

findings, and then had them return to their<br />

base on the Texas coast. They reported that<br />

the Nueces and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> were two<br />

rivers instead of one with a large expanse of<br />

land in between, and that the Nueces flowed<br />

into the Gulf nearly two hundred miles north<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

The captains of the other teams reported that<br />

the three principal streams emptying into the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> were the Salado, the Alamo, and the<br />

San Juan. They recommended settlement sites<br />

near the juncture of each of these with the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> as there was the possibility of irrigating<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

14


adjacent lands. The Indian problem had<br />

proven far less serious than anticipated, though<br />

there were many tribes who spoke different<br />

dialects, making communication difficult. The<br />

native population in the vicinity of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> was estimated at approximately twentyfive<br />

hundred.<br />

Escandón had been gone from Querétaro<br />

only three months when he returned, the survey<br />

having gone smoothly with no loss of life. He<br />

prepared his report for the viceroy and<br />

requested adequate funding for the next stage of<br />

the colonization. His plans called for<br />

establishing fourteen settlements north of<br />

Tampico within seven months. A great<br />

promoter, Escandón spread the word about the<br />

colonies in every established town along the<br />

frontier, pointing out the advantages he found in<br />

Nuevo Santander. He told of the free land, fertile<br />

soil, agreeable climate, and an opportunity to<br />

have a part in the making of a new country.<br />

In establishing a villa or settlement, the first<br />

step was to select a suitable site where a water<br />

supply was assured. After the selection of a site,<br />

the streets were marked off around the plaza,<br />

which was one hundred and twenty-four varas<br />

square—about three hundred and fifty feet.<br />

Next to the villa were the common lands<br />

designated for agriculture, and beyond these<br />

were the pasturelands. Mission property for the<br />

church was usually allocated. The towns<br />

developed gradually. First the military camp<br />

changed to a municipality; then many of the<br />

solders married into the local families and<br />

became attached to the locality, eventually<br />

becoming permanent settlers.<br />

The Spaniards, in their zeal to teach<br />

Christianity to the Indians, sent their missionary<br />

priests along with the first colonizers. They were<br />

valuable in helping with the establishment of<br />

villas and compiling the laws, as well as<br />

gathering the Indians into their missions. In the<br />

beginning, twelve priests were assigned to the<br />

new colony of Nuevo Santander, all from the<br />

College of Zacatecas. Initially, they were paid by<br />

the government. Escandón cooperated with the<br />

priests in urging community life to the Indians<br />

and by pointing out the advantages of living<br />

under the protection of priests and soldiers.<br />

Because the new colony of Nuevo<br />

Santander was so remote from the capital,<br />

many decisions concerning its government<br />

were made by Escandón, its governor and<br />

capitán general, rather than waiting for royal<br />

orders from the viceroy. In addition to the<br />

ordinary concessions provided to the colonizer<br />

by the Crown, the governor also benefited<br />

from the opportunity to make money through<br />

the commissary plan. Payment of soldiers was<br />

made chiefly in provisions, purchased by<br />

Escandón and his commanders and charged to<br />

the soldiers at a profit. Thus the post of<br />

governor was also that of merchant.<br />

The first settlements in Nuevo Santander<br />

were interior settlements in Mexico in what is<br />

now Tamaulipas. These included Santander,<br />

renamed Jiménez in 1827, which became the<br />

capital of the new province and Escandón’s<br />

headquarters. But the emigrants from Nuevo<br />

León and Coahuila were more interested in the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> country, which had been pictured<br />

to them as a great fertile valley offering<br />

wonderful opportunities for agriculture and<br />

stock raising by those who had taken part in<br />

the original survey expedition two years earlier.<br />

THE FIRST RIO GRANDE<br />

SETTLEMENT<br />

José María de la Garza Falcón had been one<br />

of the captains on the initial survey expedition.<br />

A person of considerable influence in Nuevo<br />

León, he had many family connections. He<br />

persuaded his brother, Miguel, his father-in-law,<br />

and other relatives to sign up with him for the<br />

site near the juncture of the San Juan and the<br />

✧<br />

Querétaro, Escandón’s headquarters for<br />

many years, was a well-developed colonial<br />

city in the 1700s. It is famous for its<br />

aqueduct, built between 1726 and 1738,<br />

which brought water to the city from the<br />

surrounding mountains.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

15


✧<br />

This Spanish map of the Seno Mexicano<br />

region shows a 1792 date. All of the<br />

Escandón settlements are shown, but the<br />

many inaccuracies on the U.S. side show<br />

that little exploration of the territory<br />

had occurred.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

16<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. He wanted to be named captain of<br />

the villa, which carried a handsome salary and<br />

double the land of an ordinary settler.<br />

These colonists were a fine class of Spaniards,<br />

but were accustomed to the hardships of the<br />

frontier. They realized that to make a success in<br />

this new country they would have an everyday<br />

struggle for family, food, and land. Determined<br />

to succeed, they insured their future by taking<br />

with them into the new province their livestock,<br />

consisting of cattle, horses, goats, and sheep,<br />

and as many of their household goods as could<br />

be carried. The women slipped in among the<br />

necessary articles flower and fruit seed, valued<br />

heirlooms, medicines, small pieces of<br />

needlecraft, dishes and silver, common in the<br />

rich mining districts of Nuevo León.<br />

The party arrived at the site and awaited<br />

Escandón and his group. While waiting, they<br />

made a clearing, erected crude huts, dug a few<br />

irrigation ditches and made other preparations<br />

necessary to make a good showing for El Conde.<br />

Escandón reached the campsite early in March,<br />

and soon all were ready for the founding of the<br />

first of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> settlements, which they<br />

decided to call Santa Ana de Camargo.<br />

The priests wanted some semblance of a<br />

church, and the men hurriedly erected an arbor<br />

using poles from both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

On March 5, 1749, Villa Santa Ana de Camargo<br />

was officially christened by Escandón and Blas<br />

María de la Garza Falcón was successful in being<br />

named captain. At the sounding of the drum,<br />

the soldiers and settlers gathered in the open<br />

plaza in front of the crude arbor. The church was<br />

blessed, and Escandón addressed the captain,<br />

administering to him the oath to defend the villa<br />

and comfort and encourage the settlers. Mass<br />

was then sung, a volley was discharged in honor<br />

of the occasion, and the soldiers and settlers<br />

went to their jacales. The captains and jefes<br />

concluded the ceremony as they drank wine<br />

from silver goblets to the health of their great<br />

leader and gave him thanks.<br />

Thus was born the first Spanish settlement<br />

along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. A garrison was set up<br />

and Captain de la Garza Falcón was left in<br />

charge of the original settlers, forty families<br />

from the province of Nuevo León. A mission<br />

was established south of the villa on the Río<br />

San Juan, with Fray Marquís left in charge.<br />

Today, Camargo, located six miles south of<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, is still a thriving agricultural<br />

community and home to several thousand<br />

residents who take great pride in their town<br />

and its history.<br />

THE SETTLEMENT OF REYNOSA<br />

Much the same procedure was used in the<br />

establishment of succeeding settlements. The<br />

second villa was established downstream,<br />

Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Reynosa,<br />

with Carlos Cantú as captain. The first forty<br />

settlers came with him from Cadereyta and<br />

other Nuevo León settlements. These settlers<br />

received one hundred pesos as a subsidy for<br />

each family and enough grain and other food


for their first year. A mission was established<br />

nearby with Fray Agustín Fragoso in charge.<br />

Reynosa was the last settlement made<br />

toward the east, as the lands near the coast<br />

were thought unsuitable for settlement since<br />

the settlers would need to depend on agriculture<br />

for a livelihood, and because hundreds of<br />

Indians inhabited the coastal plains.<br />

The original site chosen for Reynosa was<br />

prone to flooding, so the town was moved to<br />

its present site on higher land in 1802.<br />

Reynosa was to become the largest of the<br />

Escandón colonies, with a strong manufacturing,<br />

agricultural, industrial, trade, and service<br />

economy. It is a blend of old and new, an<br />

interesting place to visit.<br />

Within six months, counting those<br />

settlements further south in Mexico,<br />

Escandón had established thirteen villas and<br />

missions in the region. Though the project<br />

cost twice the amount budgeted, the<br />

Audencia was quite pleased at the work of the<br />

colonizer and he was encouraged to continue<br />

with the settlements.<br />

Though Escandón had planned to establish<br />

two settlements north of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> near<br />

the Nueces, scouts who were sent out to see if<br />

they could find suitable locations returned<br />

after eight difficult months to report adversely<br />

on the tentative sites chosen. As a result, plans<br />

for further settlements in the upper portions<br />

of the colony were abandoned.<br />

The first settlement north of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> in what is now Texas was established<br />

by Coahuila rancher José Vásquez Borrego,<br />

who had a ranch upriver from Revilla and<br />

wanted to establish a villa. In the late summer<br />

of 1750, Borrego settled Nuestra Señora de los<br />

Dolores with twelve families. It became more<br />

a ranch headquarters than a town, and its<br />

structure was very military and authoritarian.<br />

It also was subject to raids from hostile tribes<br />

of Indians. In the first decades of the<br />

nineteenth century, Indians struck the<br />

settlement repeatedly with a terrible fury.<br />

People were killed, women and children<br />

carried off as captives, cattle were taken, and<br />

the raiders even killed Borrego’s oldest son,<br />

who had charge of the place. Eventually the<br />

settlement was abandoned and only its ruins<br />

can be seen today.<br />

REVILLA AND MIER<br />

After establishing his headquarters and home<br />

along the Río Santander at Jiménez, Escandón<br />

again headed for the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> for another<br />

colonization expedition in early 1750. He had<br />

received a proposal from Vicente Guerra, a<br />

rancher from the province of Coahuila, to settle<br />

twenty-six families at Revilla, near the juncture<br />

of the Salado and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Guerra asked<br />

only for the rights and title of a colonizer<br />

without expense to the government. The villa of<br />

Revilla (known since 1828 as Guerrero) was<br />

established and its growth was rapid.<br />

Within three years there were forty-three<br />

families with thousands of cattle, goats, sheep<br />

and horses pastured over the surrounding<br />

country, which was much better adapted for<br />

ranching than farming. Known for the attractive<br />

architecture of its stone buildings, it prospered<br />

well into the twentieth century. However, its<br />

economy had declined, and its population had<br />

dwindled to a few thousand by the time it was<br />

abandoned in 1952, when it was partially<br />

submerged by the construction of Falcon Dam<br />

reservoir. Nuevo Guerrero, just across the<br />

international crossing at Falcon Dam, was built<br />

in the early 1950s to relocate the residents of<br />

Guerrero Viejo. The bell from its historic<br />

church by the old plaza now rings from the<br />

church by the plaza at Nuevo Guerrero.<br />

In recent years the ruins of Guerrero Viejo<br />

have emerged from the waters of Falcon Lake,<br />

✧<br />

Above: Camargo’s well-preserved<br />

Presidential Palace faces the plaza and is<br />

occupied by city officials.<br />

Below: The Catholic Church of Santa Ana<br />

faces the plaza and is the oldest building<br />

in Camargo. Built in the 1750s, the church<br />

has been carefully restored and is used by<br />

the citizenry.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

17


✧<br />

Reynosa, which had a population of only<br />

two thousand in 1842, has grown to become<br />

one of the largest cities along the border.<br />

This well maintained Catholic church by the<br />

main plaza was built in the 1800s and has<br />

seen many renovations.<br />

as they do any time the lake level drops. The<br />

site has become a popular destination for<br />

visitors from both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

In 1752, two years after Revilla was established,<br />

Lugar de Mier was founded upstream<br />

along the banks of the Alamo River near the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. José Florencio de Chapa was in<br />

charge and thirty-eight families arrived from<br />

Cerralvo, only sixty miles away.<br />

Already there were nineteen families living<br />

on ranches in the area, and they joined the<br />

newcomers to establish the villa of Mier. Since<br />

no priest was provided at this new settlement, it<br />

was impossible to develop the work among the<br />

Indians with only an occasional visit from a<br />

circuit priest.<br />

Mier was located near the best ford on the<br />

lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, El Cantaro, which had already<br />

been used extensively for crossing from the salt<br />

lakes located to the north. Limestone was readily<br />

available, so more permanent homes were erected<br />

there than at most of the other settlements.<br />

Today, a visit to Mier takes one back to<br />

earlier days, as some of the old limestone walls<br />

and buildings can be seen alongside modern<br />

structures. Mier is a gem of an interior town,<br />

with well-kept homes, churches and schools.<br />

THE SETTLEMENT OF<br />

CARNESTOLENDAS<br />

In January 1753 Escandón made another<br />

visit to the new settlements. The census was<br />

encouraging, showing an increase in<br />

population. While he was in the <strong>Valley</strong>, the<br />

settlers made their first petition for the<br />

individual allocations of lands, and some of the<br />

people of Camargo asked for land on the north<br />

side of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in a place known as<br />

Carnestolendas, now <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City. Captain<br />

Blas María de la Garza Falcón had chosen a high<br />

hill overlooking the river for his ranch<br />

headquarters and his herds roamed in the valley<br />

north of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and over the hills and<br />

plateau to the north. Don Nicolás de los Santos<br />

Coy, his father-in-law, had established his ranch<br />

to the west about nine miles and had named it<br />

Guardado (now Garceño).<br />

Don Nicolás was a very wealthy man, and<br />

reports from the time show that he employed<br />

more than a hundred men to work his two<br />

ranches, the second one on the south side of the<br />

river. Together, the de la Garza Falcón and de<br />

los Santos Coy families were awarded one<br />

hundred sitios (442,800 acres) of land north of<br />

the river, with the provision that they settle<br />

fifteen additional families on the land at their<br />

own expense.<br />

THE LAST OF THE COLONIES<br />

Escandón established the last of the<br />

colonies on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in May 1755. He<br />

gave permission to Don Tomás Sánchez to<br />

settle on a ranch about thirty-five miles<br />

northwest of Dolores on the north bank of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Sánchez was born in 1709 near<br />

Monterrey, and his early career began in the<br />

military on the northern frontier. Later he was<br />

a rancher in the province of Coahuila. Fifteen<br />

leagues of land, about 66,000 acres, were<br />

included in the Sánchez grant.<br />

Sánchez was commissioned a captain, but no<br />

military garrison was provided and the settlers<br />

were to defend themselves, since the colony was<br />

to be founded without any expense to the<br />

government. The town became Laredo, and it is<br />

the only one of Escandón’s colonies located<br />

north of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> that has survived.<br />

When the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was<br />

signed in 1848, the old Spanish villa became a<br />

part of the United States and Texas.<br />

By October 1755 Escandón was ready to<br />

go to Mexico City to make his report on the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

18


colonies of his province. He felt the conquest<br />

about complete and that the colonization<br />

work had been successful. He also believed<br />

the settlers and missionaries could complete<br />

the plans initiated and supervised by him for<br />

eight years, though he realized that they<br />

would have to be careful to keep the colonists<br />

and Indians from having internal troubles.<br />

One-half of all the expense of the<br />

exploration and colonization of Nuevo<br />

Santander had been paid by Escandón himself,<br />

according to his agreement with the<br />

government. He had taken time from his own<br />

home, family and business to accomplish the<br />

colonization of the land along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

and in the interior. He had established twentythree<br />

colonies with a total population of 6,384<br />

people. In his report to the viceroy, he<br />

explained that he had not felt it was time for<br />

the actual assignment of the lands, which were<br />

held and worked in common until the land<br />

grants were made. He ended his report on a<br />

personal note:<br />

successful of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> settlements and<br />

Reynosa the poorest at that time.<br />

Cuervo made a detailed report and numerous<br />

recommendations for the improvement<br />

and progress of the province. Among them<br />

was immediate allotment of land to individual<br />

settlers, the division to be made on a fair and<br />

equitable basis to Spaniards, respecting the<br />

rights of the Indians.<br />

I have sometimes been called crazy for<br />

undertaking such a perilous expedition. But<br />

what I have done in more than fifteen years in<br />

the Sierra Gorda has been well spent, for it has<br />

brought the pacification of many souls,<br />

extended the main beliefs of the Catholic<br />

Monarch, and I have gained the trust of Your<br />

Excellency.<br />

Nuevo Santander, August 8, 1755.<br />

Don José de Escandón<br />

About the time the colonizer was preparing<br />

his report to Count Revilla Gigedo, viceroy of<br />

Mexico, a change took place and the marquis<br />

of Las Amarillas became the new viceroy. He<br />

approved the report and recommendations,<br />

but wanted to inspect the colonies before<br />

completing the land grants. In March 1757,<br />

he commissioned José Tienda de Cuervo to<br />

inspect the colonies.<br />

The Cuervo team visited each colony,<br />

reporting on its general condition, the<br />

number of families and individuals, and the<br />

number of cattle, horses, sheep, goats and<br />

hogs. Some colonies had prospered more than<br />

others, with Camargo being the most<br />

THE ASSIGNMENT OF LANDS<br />

Cuervo’s report formed the basis for the<br />

General Visit of the Royal Commission of 1767,<br />

during which individual land grants were made.<br />

More people kept moving into the colonies, and<br />

the original settlers were getting restless for fear<br />

there would not be enough land for all.<br />

The Commission arrived in May and spent<br />

four months surveying and assigning the<br />

lands to the colonists, using as surveyors and<br />

appraisers some of the oldest inhabitants.<br />

The original settlers were given preference,<br />

and great care was taken in the assignment of<br />

the lands. The surveyors determined that all<br />

assigned lands must have a watering place for<br />

cattle or they would be useless. The land measurement<br />

decided on took the shape of a long<br />

quadrangle, with the width approximately<br />

nine-thirteenths of a mile of river frontage, and<br />

the length extending from eleven to sixteen<br />

miles from the river. This was called a porción<br />

(portion of land) and measures about the<br />

equivalent of a square league (4,428.4 acres).<br />

✧<br />

Revilla, renamed Guerrero in 1828, grew to<br />

a sizeable city and prospered into the early<br />

1900s. It had dwindled to a few thousand<br />

residents before it was abandoned in 1952<br />

and partially submerged by the construction<br />

of the Falcon Dam and Reservoir. Its<br />

residents were relocated to new homes<br />

downstream in Nuevo Guerrero. The ruins<br />

of its church by the plaza, Nuestra Señora<br />

del Refugio, emerge from the water in<br />

times of drought, as do the ruins of its many<br />

stone buildings.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

19


✧<br />

Top: Mier’s Purísima Concepción Church by<br />

Plaza Juárez dates to 1780 and its<br />

enormous tower to 1795. It has been<br />

restored and its roof structure modernized.<br />

The church is in excellent condition due to<br />

the interest and care of its parishioners.<br />

COURTESY OF BILL BELL.<br />

Above: Mier’s San Juan Chapel by Plaza<br />

Hidalgo was constructed in 1836-40 for the<br />

private use of the de la Peña family who<br />

founded the city. It was later abandoned but<br />

eventually restored in the 1960s.<br />

These porciónes are numbered and are now part<br />

of the description of a large percentage of the<br />

land in Hidalgo and Starr Counties.<br />

An interesting ceremony was followed in the<br />

actual delivery of these grants. The justice usually<br />

took the applicant by the hand and led him<br />

around the land. Both pulled grass and weeds and<br />

threw stones as evidence of ownership and<br />

possession of the land, and stones were placed at<br />

the corners. Most of the settlers lived in or near<br />

the villas on the south side of the river and did<br />

their farming there, using the land on the north<br />

side for grazing their stock.<br />

The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848<br />

recognized the porciónes as land rightfully<br />

granted by the king of Spain to his subjects<br />

and their heirs. Some ranch lands on the<br />

north side of the river were abandoned due to<br />

Indian raids, and other families lost their<br />

lands in the aftermath of the U.S.-Mexican<br />

War. However, many descendants from the<br />

original owners of the porciónes still reside in<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and are proud of their<br />

ancestry.<br />

His great colonization completed to his own<br />

satisfaction and that of the Crown, Escandón<br />

made his headquarters in Villa Cápital de<br />

Santander, now known as Jiménez. There he<br />

built a handsome estate and established two<br />

ranches, which became quite profitable, as did<br />

his other business ventures in the province. He<br />

held the office of governor of Nuevo Santander<br />

until his death in 1770, and the great<br />

conquistador is honored on both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> for taming the wild frontier.<br />

The land beyond Reynosa and on down to<br />

the Gulf, on the south bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>,<br />

was granted to his heirs in appreciation of his<br />

colonization work. This tract is described as<br />

“six hundred forty-two leagues,” equivalent to<br />

2.85 million acres, with one hundred miles<br />

river frontage, beginning at the mouth of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. This was sold by the Escandón<br />

heirs in later years.<br />

THE LARGER<br />

LAND GRANTS<br />

At the time of the General Visit of 1767, no<br />

grants had been made on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

below Reynosa. Some of those in the Reynosa<br />

jurisdiction had accumulated large herds of<br />

cattle, sheep and horses and had spread out<br />

towards the Gulf, extending their holdings<br />

without formal process of law. Several applications<br />

were made for these lands, and large<br />

grants were made by the Crown from 1777 to<br />

1781. Some of these included from twentyfive<br />

to one hundred leagues in each grant.<br />

The purpose of these large grants was to<br />

establish ranches and develop the lands<br />

beyond the porciónes. Records show that these<br />

large grants were made to influential citizens<br />

of Camargo and Reynosa who agreed to stock<br />

them with both cattle and sheep and to form<br />

a settlement on each grant. The owners seldom<br />

actually occupied these lands, but<br />

employed foremen to supervise the ranches.<br />

Some of the larger grants and the counties<br />

and cities that now occupy them are: Espíritu<br />

Santo—Brownsville and a large part of<br />

Cameron County; Llano <strong>Grande</strong>—Mercedes<br />

and Weslaco in Hidalgo County; La Feria in<br />

Cameron County; Concepción de Carricitos<br />

includes San Benito in Cameron County and<br />

San Juan de Carricitos—Raymondville and<br />

Lyford in Willacy County. Another large grant<br />

was San Salvador del Tule, which had 21,410<br />

acres in Hidalgo, 9,358 in Willacy, 71,955 in<br />

Kenedy, and 21,768 acres in Brooks County.<br />

All of these grants were incorporated into<br />

the Jurisdiction of Reynosa, extending its<br />

boundaries to the coast and making it the<br />

largest of the five jurisdictions of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> colonization. Though the royal land<br />

grants were recognized by the 1848 Treaty of<br />

Guadalupe by both the United States and<br />

Mexico, they also led to great personal<br />

turmoil and legal complications that have<br />

lasted over two hundred years.<br />

The assignment of practically all river lands<br />

was completed by 1781, and the settlements<br />

prospered and grew. Many of the Indians were<br />

congregated in the missions, where they received<br />

small allotments of land to work, but at intervals<br />

there continued to be raids in the settlements<br />

north of the river. By 1800 there were fifteen<br />

thousand people settled in the colony of Nuevo<br />

Santander, with substantial groups in Camargo,<br />

Reynosa, Mier and Revilla. Thousands of stock<br />

roamed the floodplains and uplands on both<br />

sides of the river, and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> settlements<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

20


were considered among the most successful<br />

accomplishments the Spaniards had undertaken.<br />

The colonists who had come with José de<br />

Escandón little realized the fate in store for<br />

them—revolution, secession from the mother<br />

country, and three new rulers, all within half<br />

a century.<br />

SALT OF THE KING<br />

No history of the area would be complete<br />

without an account of the area’s natural salt lakes.<br />

Long before the Spaniards came, early trails<br />

through South Texas and Northern Mexico led to<br />

the rich natural salt deposits found at La Sal del<br />

Rey (Salt of the King), also known as El Sal del<br />

Rey, in northeastern Hidalgo County and La Sal<br />

Vieja (Old Salt) in western Willacy County.<br />

Though the origin of the salt lakes is<br />

unknown, geologists believe the residual lakes<br />

were cut off from the sea untold ages past as<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> delta emerged from the ocean<br />

floor. As water evaporated through eons of<br />

time, salt crystallized in the natural depression.<br />

Salt crystals ninety-eight percent pure rise<br />

perpetually to the surface in layers two to four<br />

feet deep.<br />

Because salt is so important to both animals<br />

and man for many purposes—flavoring, medicine,<br />

meat preservation, water purification,<br />

mining and steel smelting, the salt deposits<br />

have been utilized and coveted by many.<br />

Warring Indian tribes from north and<br />

south of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> harvested supplies of<br />

salt to cure meats and tan hides, resuming<br />

their battles only after they had left the area,<br />

for the tribes did not attack each other while<br />

on salt missions.<br />

Spanish explorers claimed the lakes for the<br />

king of Spain, for under Spanish law all of the<br />

minerals belonged to the Crown. There is<br />

much recorded history, both fact and legend,<br />

about La Sal del Rey, which became the subject<br />

of over a century of litigation in later<br />

years. The lake covers approximately five<br />

hundred acres and has no connection with<br />

any other body of water.<br />

According to Elouise Campbell, the last<br />

private owner of the lake, salt blocks removed<br />

from any spot in the lake are quickly<br />

replenished, often in two to three days.<br />

Engineers estimate that the lake can produce<br />

four million tons of salt. The depth of the<br />

water varies from completely dry to two feet<br />

in dry periods to more than ten feet in times<br />

of heavy rainfall. It is perhaps most interesting<br />

when the lake is almost dry and resembles a<br />

glistening field of ice crystals.<br />

Salt was taken from it by the Spanish<br />

colonists for forty years before it became part of<br />

the San Salvador del Tule Grant given by the<br />

Spanish King to Juan José Balli in 1794. During<br />

those early days of Spanish colonization,<br />

wooden ox carts made the long trek, as Indians<br />

had done long before them, to haul salt from the<br />

lake’s edge. Without the salt with which they<br />

bartered for corn and beans and tools, the first<br />

Spanish colonies along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> would<br />

not have survived. Indians who were coaxed to<br />

live at the missions outside the protected<br />

settlements often carried baskets of salt to the<br />

padres and received rations of beans and corn.<br />

The right of everyone to take salt was<br />

never questioned, though on large loads onefifth<br />

of the salt went to the Viceroy. The<br />

soldiers who took part in Escandón’s sevenpronged<br />

reconnaissance of the territory were<br />

allowed to take salt back with them as a<br />

reward for the hazardous mission. Riches<br />

far greater than the small fee went into<br />

the Royal Treasury after pack trains delivered<br />

their burdens to distant mines in Mexico.<br />

The mineral was used in quantity in the<br />

process of extracting ore and the textile<br />

manufacturers in Saltillo and other Mexican<br />

✧<br />

An ox cart team hauling salt from the El Sal<br />

del Rey.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

CHAPTER I<br />

21


✧<br />

In 1784 Charles III, king of Spain, gave<br />

Captain Juan José Ballí a 315,000 acre land<br />

grant known as San Salvador del Tule west<br />

of Raymondville, which included the greatly<br />

treasured salt lakes. The king said, “All<br />

minerals belong to my royal crown.” The<br />

Texas Constitution of 1867 gave the<br />

mineral rights to the landowners, subject to<br />

taxation. The oil and gas mineral wealth of<br />

Texas is based on this revision of the<br />

Spanish law. This scene was taken from a<br />

mural by Ramon Claudio in Raymondville’s<br />

Pocket Park.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HARDING.<br />

cities used salt as a fixative agent in some of<br />

their dyes.<br />

In “Footprints Across the <strong>Rio</strong>,” a chapter in<br />

Gift of the <strong>Rio</strong>, Minnie Gilbert wrote about the<br />

salt trade of the colonists as follows:<br />

Remnants of the Old Salt Trail can be identified<br />

on both sides of the border. Conan<br />

Wood, Sr., of Mission has traced the circuitous<br />

route followed by mule trains carrying salt<br />

cargoes into Mexico. Around thirty animals<br />

were in a pack train, each carrying about 250-<br />

pound loads. Laguna Seca was the first<br />

overnight stop. The second was near present<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City. The river crossing, probably<br />

chosen because the stream has a sandstone<br />

base at that point, was where the San Juan<br />

River empties into the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

At one time, Santos Coy of Camargo<br />

employed 500 men and used 10,000 mules in<br />

connection with the operation of the Salt<br />

Train, which traveled as far as Durango and<br />

Zacatecas in the interior and Veracruz on the<br />

Gulf Coast. The nearby villas of Bravo and<br />

China were famous for producing the sturdy<br />

mules, used in relays. Distance between the<br />

stations, from 24 to 30 miles, represented a<br />

day’s journey. Sites with available water were<br />

chosen and frequent detours to avoid desert<br />

terrain etched a snake-like path.<br />

In addition to Spaniards who came to the<br />

lake were pioneers from other parts of what<br />

would become the United States. They made<br />

the long journey to camp by La Sal del Rey<br />

until they filled their wagons with salt to<br />

barter as they returned home, paying a onefifth<br />

royalty to the king of Spain.<br />

Ships from Spain, France, and England<br />

returned to their European ports loaded with<br />

salt after bringing supplies to their colonies in<br />

the New World. Wagons with huge wheels<br />

came in trains of 20 or 30 to haul salt, not just<br />

toward Mexico, but north, east and west. Salt<br />

was the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first export.<br />

The salt deposits also were of great importance<br />

during the Civil War. Although the U.S.-<br />

Mexican War caused a great decline in the salt<br />

traffic, the Civil War brought about a huge<br />

increase. The Confederacy’s need for six million<br />

bushels of salt a year caused the price to rise<br />

from sixty cents to twenty dollars a bushel. The<br />

great wagons that brought cotton to the port of<br />

Bagdad for shipment to the mills of England<br />

and Europe returned with loads of salt.<br />

The Southern cause received a catastrophic<br />

blow in 1863 when a detachment from the<br />

Union Army destroyed the Sal del Rey salt<br />

works. After that, smaller amounts of salt<br />

were taken from the site. As salt became<br />

abundant through other sources, it was no<br />

longer mined from the old salt lakes.<br />

Ownership of the minerals went from the<br />

king of Spain to the Mexican government.<br />

The Republic of Texas, as succeeding sovereign,<br />

became owner of such mines and minerals<br />

under international law. Then ownership<br />

went to the State of Texas. Finally, in 1866,<br />

Texas released to the state’s landowners the<br />

mines and minerals under surface soil on<br />

their property, and this provision was reaffirmed<br />

in 1869 and again in 1876.<br />

Litigation over the ownership of La Sal del<br />

Rey began in 1804 and was finally settled in<br />

1937, when the land and its minerals became<br />

privately owned. It went through several owners<br />

before the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> National Wildlife<br />

Refuge acquired both La Sal del Rey and La Sal<br />

Vieja in the late 1900s. No longer needed as a<br />

source of salt, the lakes and surrounding areas<br />

are now protected wildlife refuges. Instead of the<br />

great wagons on the old Salt Trail, visitors may<br />

follow a birding trail to see such birds as Whitetailed<br />

Kites, Bobwhite, Harris and White-tailed<br />

Hawks and Crested Caracara.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

22


PART OF FOUR NATIONS<br />

THE END OF SPANISH RULE<br />

Though the colonies along the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> were only around fifty years old when the<br />

nineteenth century began, Spain had ruled their country for nearly three hundred years. The first<br />

viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza (1535-50), who did such an outstanding job of organizing Spanish<br />

rule, was succeeded by Luis de Velasco (1551-64), who is remembered as “the Liberator” because<br />

of his emancipation of numerous Indian slaves. Some of the viceroys who followed them were<br />

competent, but others displayed less integrity and the system became increasingly corrupt.<br />

The Spanish government realized that reforms were needed, and in 1765 made administrative<br />

changes and liberalized economic policies. This led to a rapid growth of prosperity, making the last<br />

part of the eighteenth century the golden age of New Spain.<br />

Population estimates as the nineteenth century began showed 2,685,000 mestizos, of Spanish<br />

and Indian heritage, the largest group; two million indigenous people; one million creoles, born in<br />

Mexico of Spanish heritage, and 80,000 peninsulares, who were Spanish-born. The natives and<br />

other working classes continued to be poor and had no voice in government. The mestizos included<br />

a few who had acquired wealth and education, but they had little political power.<br />

The creoles could pursue military careers, hold municipal offices, and engage in artisan<br />

occupations. The priesthood was open to them, but not the high ecclesiastical positions. Some were<br />

professionals and small property holders, but they could not take part in the viceroy’s central<br />

government. This was reserved for the peninsulares. This system was greatly resented by the creoles,<br />

who felt they were quite able to govern themselves, as well as by the other social classes. Back in<br />

Europe, Spain was having her own problems. In 1808 the once-great nation had come under the<br />

control of Napoleon, who sent Spain’s King Ferdinand VII to live in France as a virtual prisoner and<br />

established his brother Joseph as king of Spain. French rule was strongly opposed by the people of<br />

Spain, and opposition to Napoleon’s rule spread throughout the Spanish Empire. This opened the door<br />

to rebellion in the colonies. Creoles in Mexico City began talking about self-government, though they<br />

continued to express loyalty to the legitimate Spanish king. However, the movement was quickly<br />

suppressed by the royalist government, and its leaders were imprisoned.<br />

✧<br />

Querétaro’s Corregidora Garden has this<br />

monument to Doña Josefa Ortiz, wife of<br />

Mayor Miguel Dominguez, who sent a<br />

message by a soldier to General Ignacio<br />

Allende warning them that their plot had<br />

been discovered, saving them from arrest.<br />

This caused them to start their uprising on<br />

September 16, 1810 instead of December 8,<br />

1810, as had been planned.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

23


✧<br />

Above: Padre Miguel Hidalgo y Castillo was<br />

a teacher and college administrator<br />

in Valladolid before becoming a parish<br />

priest at Dolores, where his home became<br />

a literary, musical, and social activity<br />

center. This portrait was taken from<br />

Historia de Mexico.<br />

Below: The city of Guanajuato is<br />

surrounded by mountains and its historic<br />

buildings are carefully preserved. The illequipped<br />

insurgents numbered fifty<br />

thousand when they arrived at Guanajuato,<br />

which they captured in a bloodbath for<br />

both sides.<br />

Revolutionary ideas continued to spread. In<br />

Querétaro a group of prominent creoles formed<br />

a literary club, which soon became a place to<br />

discuss grievances against the peninsular<br />

government in Mexico City. Among the group<br />

were Ignacio Allende and Juan Aldama, military<br />

officers from San Miguel el <strong>Grande</strong> (now San<br />

Miguel de Allende). One of the invited guests<br />

was Padre Miguel Hidalgo y Castillo from the<br />

town of Dolores.<br />

Padre Hidalgo was born in 1753 on a<br />

hacienda near Guanajuato to creole parents<br />

whose ancestors had arrived in Michoacán in<br />

the 1500s. He entered the secondary school of<br />

San Francisco Xavier in Valladolid at age twelve.<br />

There he was influenced by Jesuit scholars with<br />

enlightened ideas who stressed rational learning<br />

rather than learning based on accepted<br />

authorities and who offered an expanded<br />

curriculum that included empirical sciences,<br />

modern language and history. Though the<br />

association ended abruptly with the expulsion<br />

of the Jesuits from the Spanish Empire in 1767,<br />

his teachers had made a lasting impression on<br />

the young student. He continued his studies at<br />

the Colegio de San Nicolás Obispo in Valladolid<br />

and was ordained a priest in 1778, two years<br />

after he began his teaching career at the colegio.<br />

Hidalgo stayed at the colegio as a teacher and<br />

later as rector until 1792. In January 1793 he<br />

became a parish priest, and soon was sent to the<br />

pastorate of San Felipe, near Dolores in the<br />

Guanajuato area. There he made his home a<br />

literary, musical and social activity center. He<br />

organized an orchestra that provided music for<br />

the church, dances and concerts. These popular<br />

activities attracted many followers, as did his<br />

strong belief in equality of all classes. Times were<br />

hard in the area, and he worked to develop a<br />

better economy for the community by teaching<br />

a variety of skills and encouraging the<br />

production of additional agricultural products.<br />

Though Hidalgo was not involved in the<br />

initial discussions of the Quéteraro group, he<br />

was well informed about them through his<br />

contacts with Allende. In the late summer of<br />

1810 he was invited to join the discussions<br />

and became a strong advocate for change.<br />

The group made contacts with sympathizers<br />

in other cities and developed a plan that called<br />

for setting up revolutionary juntas in the<br />

principal towns to campaign against the<br />

peninsulares, accusing them of being unable to<br />

save Mexico from the French. Next they would<br />

call for independence, expel the peninsulares,<br />

and expropriate their property to finance the<br />

independence cause. The first strike was set for<br />

December 8, 1810, during the great fair at San<br />

Juan de los Lagos where there would be many<br />

people likely to join the movement. But word<br />

got to the authorities in Mexico City about the<br />

plans, with orders to arrest its perpetrators. A<br />

message was sent to Hidalgo that their plans had<br />

become known.<br />

There was no turning back for Hidalgo and<br />

the rebel leaders, for they knew that capture<br />

would mean execution. The revolt that had<br />

been planned for December 8 took place at<br />

5:00 a.m. on September 16, 1810, in Dolores as<br />

Padre Hidalgo proclaimed his Grito de Dolores,<br />

the shout for independence. The priest was no<br />

longer a pastor, but an insurgent commander, a<br />

charismatic leader who attracted the masses.<br />

The insurgents numbered 600 as they headed<br />

southwest, growing to 25,000 as they captured<br />

Celaya and 50,000 as the undisciplined and illequipped<br />

army arrived at Guanajuato. They<br />

captured the city in a bloodbath for both sides.<br />

They moved on to Valladolid on October 17 with<br />

an undisciplined army of 60,000 and took the<br />

city without resistance. They left with eighty<br />

thousand men, many armed only with machetes<br />

and homemade spears.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

24


As they headed for Mexico City, they were<br />

joined by Padre José Maria Moreles, a former<br />

student at Colegio de San Nicolás when Hidalgo<br />

was rector. He was made a lieutenant and sent to<br />

lead the movement in the south of Mexico. As<br />

the army neared Mexico City, Hidalgo decided<br />

not to invade the city, but to retreat, possibly<br />

fearing too much looting and bloodshed by his<br />

followers. Allende and some others disagreed,<br />

but the army turned back and continued to<br />

other cities, including Guadalajara, where they<br />

were successful.<br />

With royalist resistance strengthening, the<br />

tide soon turned against the insurgents. Cities<br />

previously taken were regained by the royalists,<br />

and the army dwindled to a few thousand. On<br />

March 21, 1811, just six months after the revolt<br />

began, the rebel army was ambushed at Baján,<br />

near Monclova. Among the insurgents captured<br />

were Hidalgo, Allende, and Aldama.<br />

The Hidalgo revolt was over, and all that<br />

remained was the trial of the leaders and their<br />

execution. Hidalgo was found guilty of high<br />

treason and murder, and he was excommunicated<br />

from his church. He was sentenced to be executed<br />

by firing squad after removing his clerical robes.<br />

The sentence was carried out on the morning of<br />

July 30, 1811, ending the life of the beloved parish<br />

priest at the age of fifty-eight.<br />

The disastrous end of the Hidalgo revolt did<br />

not end the quest for independence, and the<br />

Spanish authorities were in constant fear of<br />

another Hidalgo movement. Though most of<br />

the rebellion was far removed from the growing<br />

settlements along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, José<br />

Bernardo Gutiérrez de Lara of Revilla was active<br />

in promoting the insurgent cause in Nuevo<br />

Santander. A fiery spirit, he met with Hidalgo<br />

and Allende, who commissioned him a<br />

lieutenant colonel and appointed him as<br />

emissary to seek support for the revolution<br />

from the United States. After they were<br />

captured, Gutiérrez de Lara refused to see the<br />

revolution abandoned and sought to carry out<br />

his mission. He managed to get away unseen by<br />

the royalists, cross the river, vanish into Texas,<br />

and get to Washington, D.C.<br />

There he met with officials from the State<br />

Department, then with Secretary of State<br />

James Monroe, who heard him with sympathy<br />

but offered no support of men and arms. The<br />

Secretary dismissed him kindly, urging him to<br />

return home, pursue his plans, and assure his<br />

associates that the United States regarded<br />

their intentions favorably. He then helped<br />

Gutiérrez de Lara make his way homeward,<br />

where he continued to work for the cause.<br />

Meanwhile, roving bands from the Hidalgo<br />

movement roamed the countryside in the<br />

northern provinces. The insurgency movement<br />

of Padre Moreles south of Mexico City<br />

continued until 1815, when he also met the fate<br />

of his mentor. The independence movement<br />

rapidly disintegrated, though Vicente Guerrero<br />

and others continued to lead guerilla forces.<br />

The final phase of the independence<br />

movement began in 1820 when a change to a<br />

more liberal government in Spain moved the<br />

clergy and conservatives to favor independence.<br />

Leadership was assumed by Agustín de Iturbide,<br />

a creole who had formerly been an officer of<br />

the viceregal army. He proposed the three-part<br />

Plan of Iguala to which the dissident parties of<br />

Mexico—clergy, people of property, and the<br />

creoles—could rally. It proposed, first, the<br />

continuation of the Catholic Church as the<br />

established church of Mexico; second, the<br />

establishment of an independent limited<br />

monarchy, and third, equal rights for Spaniards<br />

and creoles. Also, there was to be no confiscation<br />

of property. Despite the conservative tendencies<br />

of the plan, insurgent leader Vicente Guerrero<br />

was persuaded to accept it.<br />

Iturbide’s Plan of Iguala gathered support<br />

wherever he went and soon had overwhelming<br />

approval from most Mexicans. Not a shot was<br />

fired. When the new viceroy, General<br />

O’Donojú, arrived from Spain to quell the<br />

rebellion, he realized that, unless he accepted<br />

the fact of Mexican independence, a civil war of<br />

fearful dimensions would come. On July 24,<br />

1821, he signed away Spain’s dominion over<br />

Mexico and all the outlands she embraced. The<br />

grasp of Spain was broken at last! The<br />

movement begun by Padre Hidalgo more than<br />

ten years before had finally succeeded.<br />

Every year on September 16, the Mexican<br />

president commemorates the Grito de Dolores<br />

from the presidential palace in Mexico City, and<br />

spirited independence celebrations take place in<br />

cities all over Mexico. Dieciséis de Septiembre is<br />

also widely celebrated in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

✧<br />

Though the Hidalgo revolt ended after only<br />

six months, Padre Hidalgo is revered as the<br />

“Father of Mexican Independence” and<br />

there are many statues in his honor in both<br />

Mexico and the U.S. This statue is in the<br />

U.S. border city of Hidalgo, which was the<br />

first county seat of Hidalgo County when it<br />

was formed in 1852. Hidalgo was named<br />

for the Mexican hero.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

25


THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO<br />

✧<br />

General Antonio López de Santa Anna<br />

moved in and out of the presidency of<br />

Mexico from 1833 to 1855 and was a key<br />

figure in the Texas War for Independence.<br />

The transition from being a Spanish colony<br />

to establishing an independent nation was a<br />

rough one. As his first step toward forming a<br />

new government, Iturbide became president<br />

of a council of regents and a congress was<br />

elected. When conflicts developed, Iturbide<br />

took the title of emperor with the dream of<br />

establishing a monarchy, but rebellion in<br />

March 1823 forced him to abdicate and he<br />

went into exile. Returning in 1824 in the hope<br />

of regaining power, he was promptly shot.<br />

Meanwhile, the congress had proclaimed a<br />

republic, but republican government was not<br />

easy to establish among a people sharply<br />

divided by class and race differences and<br />

accustomed only to authoritarian rule.<br />

A constitution closely modeled after that of<br />

the United States was approved in 1824,<br />

dividing Mexico into nineteen states and four<br />

territories. Guadalupe Victoria, one of the<br />

early leaders of the independence movement,<br />

then became president and served a full fouryear<br />

term, providing some stability. After his<br />

presidency, changes came often as power<br />

moved from the conservatives to the liberals<br />

and back again. The early years of independence<br />

were turbulent, with much power<br />

belonging to the army. This was soon discovered<br />

by the flamboyant and unscrupulous<br />

General Antonio López de Santa Anna, who<br />

moved in and out of military power and the<br />

presidency itself from 1833 to 1855. The disorder<br />

was intensified by continuing financial<br />

crises. The mining industry, historically the<br />

main source of tax revenue, had been wrecked<br />

during the War of Independence, and the government<br />

subsisted largely on loans.<br />

It was during the brief presidency of the<br />

liberal Vicente Guerrero (1828-29) that the<br />

Escandón settlement of Revilla changed its<br />

name to Guerrero in his honor. Though the<br />

turmoil and intrigue of the new republic was<br />

far removed from the settlements along the<br />

lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, much of what was happening<br />

to the north in Texas and to the south in<br />

Mexico City would greatly affect their future.<br />

In 1821 a group of settlers from Reynosa and<br />

San Fernando petitioned the governor asking<br />

that the settlement of Congregación del Refugio<br />

be organized into a village. This was done and<br />

the new town was named Matamoros. Two<br />

years later, work was begun on a port around<br />

the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, and within a<br />

short time, Matamoros was one of the most<br />

important settlements on the northern frontier.<br />

Almost from its founding, Matamoros proved<br />

the connecting link between the regions that are<br />

now the states of Tamaulipas and Texas.<br />

Under the 1824 constitution, Nuevo<br />

Santander became the free and independent state<br />

of Tamaulipas, with the same boundaries as the<br />

former province. During the state’s early years<br />

various villages were designated the capital. On<br />

April 21, 1825, the village of Santa María de<br />

Aguayo, settled in 1750 during the Escandón<br />

colonization and located near the center of the<br />

state, was named the permanent capital. Santa<br />

María de Aguayo was renamed Ciudad Victoria in<br />

honor of the first president of Mexico, Don<br />

Guadalupe Victoria. After its first state<br />

constitution of 1825, Tamaulipas adopted a<br />

liberal colonization policy to settle the vacant<br />

lands along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and to strengthen the<br />

frontier towns. Those who had received authentic<br />

grants by royal assignment and allocation were<br />

protected by special laws of the Mexican courts.<br />

The state government was anxious that all vacant<br />

lands along the river be occupied. Among new<br />

grants was Padre Island to Padre Nicolás Ballí and<br />

his nephew, Juan José Ballí, about 1829.<br />

At the time the larger grants below Reynosa<br />

were made in the late 1770s, a large triangular<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

26


shaped piece of land with considerable frontage<br />

on the north side of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> had been<br />

left vacant. These unassigned lands were sold in<br />

1834, with each tract provided with ample river<br />

frontage, narrowing with distance from the river<br />

and intersecting the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Grant at their<br />

northern point. The present towns of Alamo and<br />

Donna are located on these lands.<br />

Meanwhile, a new wave of colonization was<br />

under way in central Texas. At the beginning of<br />

the 1800s, the population of Texas numbered<br />

only about five thousand inhabitants, not<br />

counting tribal and warlike Indians. They were<br />

scattered in three main settlements and in<br />

several military forts and mission outposts. By<br />

far the largest town was San Antonio de Béjar<br />

with twenty-five hundred people. Then came<br />

Nacogdoches with around eight hundred<br />

permanent inhabitants plus transients who were<br />

constantly crossing back and forth across the<br />

border between U.S. and Mexican territories. La<br />

Bahía del Espíritu Santo (Goliad) with 600<br />

inhabitants, including 200 mission Indians.<br />

Though the Spanish government had tried<br />

many times to establish additional colonies, the<br />

efforts had not been successful. It had been<br />

difficult, indeed impossible, for Spain to<br />

administer this largely unoccupied land, and it<br />

was just as difficult for independent Mexico.<br />

The forts were charged with the responsibility<br />

of keeping foreigners, especially would-be<br />

settlers from the United States, out of their<br />

territory. Several filibustering expeditions by<br />

Anglos attempted to populate Texas and some<br />

tried to declare it an independent country, but<br />

without success.<br />

Prior to the 1820s, all Anglos who entered<br />

Texas did so illegally. Enter Moses Austin, a<br />

businessman who had come first from<br />

Connecticut, then Pennsylvania, and eventually<br />

west of the Mississippi River to Missouri while<br />

the territory yet belonged to Spain. He was<br />

successful there, weathering political changes<br />

while Missouri passed from the control of Spain<br />

to France to the United States. When the hard<br />

times of the Panic of 1819 drained his wealth<br />

and left him in debt, he turned his eyes toward<br />

Texas. As a Spanish subject when Missouri was<br />

surrendered, Austin retained the privilege of<br />

petitioning for admission to other territory<br />

controlled by Spain.<br />

Therefore, when Austin petitioned the<br />

Spanish governor at San Antonio early in 1821<br />

for permission to settle three hundred families<br />

on Texas land, he received provisional<br />

permission to do so. The grant was confirmed<br />

by the Spanish viceroy in Mexico City. Moses<br />

Austin died before he could lead the expedition,<br />

and his son Stephen left his law studies in New<br />

Orleans to continue with the project. The<br />

Spanish terms were exceedingly generous:<br />

unlimited grants of land anywhere in the<br />

province for three hundred families in return for<br />

an oath to defend the king and government and<br />

a profession of the Catholic faith. Stephen F.<br />

Austin selected a site on the Colorado River and<br />

went to New Orleans to round up the colonists.<br />

By the time they returned, the Spaniards<br />

had been expelled and the political situation<br />

was drastically changed. Austin was informed<br />

that he would have to reconfirm his grant<br />

with the Mexican Congress. He traveled by<br />

land to Matamoros, then by sea to Veracruz,<br />

and on to Mexico City with the applications of<br />

colonists to present to the Mexican<br />

government. In January 1823, one of the last<br />

acts of Emperor Agustín I was to sign the<br />

decree approving Austin’s request. Iturbide<br />

abdicated on March 19, but the new<br />

government under President Guadalupe<br />

Victoria confirmed Austin’s grant. He had<br />

been in Mexico 355 days and left with the<br />

best intentions of adjusting completely to the<br />

duties and obligations of a Mexican citizen.<br />

✧<br />

Matamoros was founded in 1821 and grew<br />

rapidly. Here it is shown opposite<br />

Brownsville. This illustration was taken<br />

from Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper,<br />

December 5, 1863.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

27


✧<br />

Stephen F. Austin headed the colonization<br />

activities in Texas, begun under Spanish<br />

rule and continued under the new<br />

Republic of Mexico. Austin traveled to<br />

Mexico City twice; first, to present the<br />

applications of colonists and, second, to<br />

seek a separate state for Texas, which was<br />

originally combined with the Mexican state<br />

of Coahuila.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CENTER FOR AMERICAN HISTORY,<br />

THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS, AUSTIN, TEXAS.<br />

This was the beginning of U.S. migration<br />

into Texas, a fateful step for both Texas and<br />

Mexico. President Victoria’s administration<br />

encouraged the entry of American immigrants<br />

into Texas. The territory’s population estimates<br />

in 1825 numbered between 7,000 and 7,500,<br />

about evenly divided between Mexican citizens<br />

and American settlers. By 1830 the number had<br />

increased to around thirty thousand, with the<br />

increased population almost totally colonists<br />

and settlers from the north, while the Mexican<br />

population was virtually unchanged.<br />

Most of the new settlers from the United<br />

States became Mexican citizens and a few<br />

became nominal Catholics, but for the most part<br />

they retained the English language, the<br />

Protestant religion, and in general their United<br />

States customs.<br />

Alarmed by the growth of American<br />

influence, Mexico passed a drastic measure to<br />

get a firmer grip on Texas. The Law of April 6,<br />

1830 forbade further colonization in Texas by<br />

United States citizens, and those already in<br />

Texas who had not yet received land grants<br />

would not be permitted to receive them.<br />

Mexican convicts would be sent to Texas as<br />

colonists and European colonization was<br />

encouraged. Restrictions were placed on trade<br />

with U.S. entities and customs collectors were to<br />

be stationed in Texas to direct trade toward<br />

Mexico. These severe measures were directed at<br />

what the government leaders felt was a crisis of<br />

authority in Texas. Though this had not been<br />

true previously, the decree created one.<br />

When the new Republic of Mexico was<br />

organized into states, Texas was combined<br />

with the state of Coahuila to become Coahuila<br />

y Texas, and the seat of government was at<br />

Saltillo. It was an awkward arrangement, and<br />

there was much exasperation among the<br />

Texan colonists. The mails were uncertain, it<br />

was almost impossible to get timely decisions,<br />

and the Texans resisted bitterly the repressive<br />

policies imposed on them, especially the one<br />

prohibiting additional immigration.<br />

The conservative General Anastasio<br />

Bustamente came to power with the overthrow<br />

of Vicente Guerrero in 1829 and held the<br />

presidency until 1832. Texas mainly sought<br />

two things from President Bustamente: The<br />

Texans wanted the law set aside that prohibited<br />

North American settlers from entering their<br />

territory, and they wanted separation from<br />

Coahuila with individual statehood for<br />

themselves as a part of the Mexican federation.<br />

President Bustamente was not responsive to<br />

their requests, and it didn’t help that all of<br />

Mexico was in political turmoil by 1832, still<br />

only eleven years into independence.<br />

The summer of 1832 passed with no sign of<br />

interest in the Texans’ problems. On October 1,<br />

the Texan aldermen of San Felipe de Austin on<br />

the Brazos met to discuss how they could<br />

achieve separate statehood. They agreed that<br />

they must have separation from Coahuila; but<br />

they did not seek separation from Mexico. They<br />

drafted statements and petitions for changes in<br />

the governance of Texas, for repeal of the Law of<br />

April 6, 1830, and for separate statehood within<br />

the Mexican government. Their petition was<br />

returned by the head of the central government,<br />

stationed in San Antonio, who reminded them<br />

that they did not enjoy the rights of assembly<br />

and petition under Mexican law.<br />

Meanwhile, there was a new arrival on the<br />

Texas scene—General Sam Houston, former<br />

U.S. congressman and governor of Tennessee,<br />

who would play an important role in the<br />

future of the state and nation. Texas held its<br />

second convention on April 1, 1833, the same<br />

day that General Santa Anna was inaugurated<br />

as president in Mexico City. The convention<br />

drafted a state constitution, and the<br />

committee assigned to this task was headed<br />

by General Sam Houston. They also framed a<br />

petition to the national government appealing<br />

for statehood and appointed Stephen F. Austin<br />

to take their case to Mexico City.<br />

Again Austin made the twelve-hundredmile<br />

trip to Mexico City. He made his way to<br />

Matamoros and, at the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, boarded a schooner for Veracruz. The<br />

voyage, which usually took a week, took a<br />

month, the last ten days on short rations, little<br />

water and a bad case of seasickness. Finally<br />

arriving in Mexico City, he learned that Santa<br />

Anna was away putting down a civil war, so<br />

he could only await his return.<br />

Austin got along well with Santa Anna, who<br />

promised to grant statehood to Texas just as<br />

quickly as possible. Austin started home in<br />

high spirits, but in Saltillo he was unexpectedly<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

28


arrested when Mexican officials learned he had<br />

written home recommending the organization<br />

of a state without waiting for the consent of the<br />

Mexican congress. He spent the next ten<br />

months in various jails, exhausting his money<br />

and worrying about his colonists. Finally<br />

granted amnesty and released, he arrived home<br />

in July 1835 to find increasing unrest among<br />

the Texas colonists.<br />

Especially irritating to the colonists was<br />

that Santa Anna had overthrown the<br />

Constitution of 1824 and abolished the<br />

Federalist system, which had allowed citizens<br />

to control their local municipalities and districts.<br />

With the institution of a Centralist<br />

political system, local laws and customs<br />

became subject to veto from Mexico City. The<br />

Centralist government was determined to<br />

enforce Mexican laws, and the rumble of discontent<br />

among the Texans grew louder.<br />

THE TEXAS REBELLION<br />

Because of the rebellious attitude of the<br />

Texans, Santa Anna ordered his brother-in-law,<br />

General Martín Perfecto de Cos, to move an<br />

army into position at Matamoros in September<br />

1835. He loaded his army on small ships and<br />

sailed up the Laguna Madre to Matagorda Bay,<br />

where they landed. He marched his soldiers to<br />

Goliad, where several pieces of artillery, rifles,<br />

money in strongboxes, and plentiful supplies<br />

were stored inside the old mission of Presidio<br />

La Bahia. Leaving thirty soldiers to guard this<br />

base, Cos marched the rest of his troops to San<br />

Antonio, where they fought the sharpshooting<br />

Texans in the streets. Badly defeated, three of<br />

his companies marched out of town and<br />

headed for the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Cos surrendered<br />

and began his return to Laredo.<br />

Meanwhile, on October 9, a small group of<br />

colonists attacked and overwhelmed the<br />

Mexican garrison of thirty men at Presidio la<br />

Bahia at Goliad, taking their arms and supplies.<br />

Santa Anna could not accept such defeats and<br />

began to raise a force of ten thousand to quell<br />

the rebellion. In turn, the Texans prepared to<br />

send an expedition against Matamoros.<br />

Santa Anna marched toward Laredo with six<br />

thousand men. After a ball in Laredo held in his<br />

honor, he and his men headed for San Antonio.<br />

The following day General José de Urrea crossed<br />

the river at Matamoros and started northward.<br />

It was a viciously cold winter and a<br />

miserable march for the Mexican troops as they<br />

suffered from freezing northers, forded swollen<br />

streams and struggled with mired vehicles in<br />

the mud of drenching rains. At the end of their<br />

bitter journey was the Alamo, manned by a<br />

hardcore band of desperate Texans. Though<br />

much of the former mission was in ruins, the<br />

Alamo still had a great walled plaza, thick stone<br />

rooms used as a jail, a corral, and a church<br />

whose roof had fallen in. Texas’ citizen army<br />

had readied the old mission for battle by<br />

shoring up its walls and mounting cannons.<br />

Led by Santa Anna himself, the siege of the<br />

Alamo lasted for thirteen days, from February<br />

23 to March 6, 1836, with the final assault<br />

inside the old fort lasting only a few hours. The<br />

Alamo’s defenders fell, fighting savagely before<br />

giving up their lives. Then all was quiet.<br />

Meanwhile, the Texas expedition that was<br />

heading for Matamoros ran into General<br />

Urrea’s forces and was soundly beaten. Several<br />

hundred prisoners were marched to Goliad.<br />

Santa Anna sent orders that they were to be<br />

executed immediately. More than 300 of the<br />

Texans were executed; twenty-seven managed<br />

to escape. Santa Anna was pleased. He was<br />

sure the rebellion was quashed.<br />

While the fighting was going on in San<br />

Antonio and Goliad, the Consultation met in<br />

Washington-on-the-Brazos on March 1, 1836.<br />

The fifty-nine delegates knew that the Alamo<br />

✧<br />

The siege of the Alamo lasted for thirteen<br />

days from February 23 to March 6,<br />

1836, though the final assault inside the old<br />

fort lasted only a few hours. The Alamo’s<br />

defenders fell, fighting savagely before giving<br />

up their lives. This illustration was taken<br />

from an issue of The Illustrated London<br />

News published in 1836.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

29


✧<br />

It was just before Christmas 1842 that the<br />

Texans advanced on Mier and fought their<br />

way to within fifty yards of the main plaza.<br />

The plaza and bandstand are used for more<br />

peaceful celebrations now.<br />

was under siege and that the outlook was grim.<br />

The next day they produced a Declaration of<br />

Independence that resembled in form and<br />

substance the model provided in 1776 by<br />

Thomas Jefferson. They asked Sam Houston to<br />

lead their army and selected David G. Burnet as<br />

interim president, with Lorenzo de Zavala as<br />

vice president, and Thomas Jefferson Rusk was<br />

appointed secretary of war. The group<br />

continued in session until March 17 to write and<br />

adopt a constitution for the Republic of Texas,<br />

should they be able to establish an independent<br />

government after the war. It would be<br />

September before Sam Houston was elected<br />

president by popular vote.<br />

While reorganizing his troops, Santa Anna<br />

heard that General Sam Houston was<br />

retreating eastward with the remaining Texas<br />

forces and immediately went in pursuit,<br />

determined to put an end once and for all to<br />

the rebels’ resistance. He caught up with<br />

Houston and his men camped in an oak grove<br />

on the banks of Buffalo Bayou. The water was<br />

behind Houston, a couple of miles of prairie<br />

lay in front, and behind that was the Bay of<br />

San Jacinto. Between the Texans and the water<br />

were Santa Anna and his Mexican army.<br />

April 21, 1836, was a lazy, serene day along<br />

the banks of the bayou. Sam Houston slept late<br />

and was awakened by Erastus “Deaf” Smith at<br />

nine o’clock. Smith brought word that General<br />

Cos was arriving with fresh troops, bringing<br />

the Mexican forces to thirteen hundred men.<br />

The Mexican soldiers cared for their horses,<br />

some cooked their favorite dishes over campfires,<br />

and others bathed in the stream or slept. General<br />

Santa Anna took an afternoon siesta in his silken<br />

tent. It was half past four in the afternoon when<br />

Mexican pickets noted a movement of Texas<br />

cavalry advancing toward them. The Mexicans<br />

opened fire, but the cavalry was only a diversion.<br />

From another direction a steady line of Texas<br />

infantry materialized out of a stretch of timber.<br />

They moved swiftly, in complete silence, holding<br />

their rifles at the ready.<br />

What an army it was! There were English,<br />

Irish, Scots, French, Germans, Italians, and even<br />

Mexicans who sided with the Texans, for this was<br />

their fight, too. Santa Anna’s men began firing<br />

when the Texans were three hundred yards<br />

distant, but the Texans did not return their fire,<br />

just kept marching on. Then the Texan “Twin<br />

Sister” cannons, donated to the cause by citizens<br />

of Ohio, appeared and round after round of grape<br />

and canister crashed into the Mexican ranks.<br />

As the cannon spoke, a mighty roar broke<br />

the silence of Houston’s advancing men:<br />

“Remember the Alamo! Remember Goliad!”<br />

They shouted in unison. Then, for the first<br />

time, they fired their rifles. Taking no time to<br />

reload, they clubbed their guns and swung<br />

them like demons as they cracked the<br />

Mexican lines. The camp was in utter confusion.<br />

Men fought each other as they attempted<br />

to escape the terrible human avalanche.<br />

The battle itself lasted about eighteen minutes.<br />

Of Santa Anna’s thirteen hundred men<br />

who entered the fight, only forty escaped<br />

death, battle wounds or capture. Two Texans<br />

were killed and twenty-three wounded out of<br />

a total force of around eight hundred.<br />

After the battle, Santa Anna attempted to<br />

escape by disguising himself as a common<br />

soldier, but was rounded up the next day by<br />

Texas scouts searching for fugitives and<br />

dragged back to camp. Recognizing him, the<br />

soldiers came to attention and saluted. “The<br />

President!” they cried. “Santa Anna!” The wily<br />

Mexican general and president was their<br />

prisoner! Though he feared for his life, he was<br />

treated humanely by his captors.<br />

After his defeat at San Jacinto, Santa Anna<br />

was taken to Velasco by President David G.<br />

Burnet, where on May 14 a treaty of peace was<br />

signed with the following provisions: All<br />

hostilities would cease; Santa Anna would not<br />

again take up arms against Texas; all Mexican<br />

troops were to retire beyond the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>,<br />

and all private property taken from Texans was<br />

to be returned. The boundary was to be the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, rather than the Nueces, making the<br />

disputed territory between the two rivers a part<br />

of Texas. The new Texas government also<br />

secretly agreed to send Santa Anna to Veracruz<br />

at once in exchange for his promise to use his<br />

influence in securing the recognition of the<br />

independence of Texas by Mexico.<br />

On hearing of the disaster at San Jacinto, the<br />

generals commanding other units of the Mexican<br />

army promptly withdrew their forces toward the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. By June the last of the Mexican<br />

troops had crossed the river into Matamoros.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

30


THE REPUBLIC OF TEXAS<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> settlements were but<br />

remotely affected by Texas’ struggle for<br />

independence from Mexico, though the<br />

question of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as the boundary line<br />

was still unsettled for many years. Laredo was<br />

still the only organized town in the disputed<br />

area. Many settlers on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and those<br />

living on the large ranches between the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> and the Nueces abandoned their homes,<br />

deserted their interests, and left thousands of<br />

head of cattle and horses to roam over the<br />

country. They fled with their families south of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, where they sought temporary<br />

refuge. The new republic was too concerned<br />

with setting up a government and finding<br />

money to run it to attempt to establish<br />

jurisdiction south of the Nueces in the sparsely<br />

settled area that had become known as the<br />

“Wild Horse Desert.”<br />

There were practically no Anglo-Americans<br />

living in the newly defined frontier, and the<br />

Spanish and Mexican landowners were not<br />

sympathetic to the change in government,<br />

preferring to remain as a part of Mexico. Also,<br />

Texas was not prepared to undertake the task<br />

that certainly would ensue if Mexican troops<br />

were sent into the territory under dispute. In<br />

refusing to recognize Texas’ independence, the<br />

Mexican government was even less willing to<br />

acknowledge the new boundary.<br />

THE REPUBLIC OF<br />

THE RIO GRANDE<br />

Because of the unstable government in<br />

Mexico, the unrest among the people of her<br />

northern provinces, and the uncertainties of<br />

the new Republic of Texas, it is natural that<br />

some Texans would be open to other<br />

approaches to government. Early in 1839,<br />

some Texans, though not the government of<br />

the new republic, became involved in a<br />

movement which, if successful, would have<br />

changed the course of <strong>Valley</strong> history entirely.<br />

This was a plan for the organization of<br />

Zacatecas, Durango, Coahuila, Tamaulipas to<br />

the Nueces River, Nuevo León, Northern<br />

Mexico, and the Californias into the Republic<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

The movement had gained enough support<br />

for a convention to be held in Laredo and a<br />

provisional government was organized. Juan<br />

Cardenas, the political chief of Tamaulipas, was<br />

named president; Antonio Canales, the<br />

instigator of the new nation, was commanderin-chief<br />

of the army, and Laredo was the capital.<br />

The legislative council of eight members<br />

remained at Guerrero because it had a printing<br />

press, which turned out their official<br />

newspaper, Correo del Río Bravo del Norte.<br />

These revolutionists called themselves<br />

Federalists, while the forces of the Mexican<br />

government were known as Centralists. When<br />

Canales came to Texas to seek aid, the Texas<br />

government reacted negatively, but many<br />

prominent Texans joined the new movement.<br />

The Federalist forces fought their way as far as<br />

Saltillo, but after several defeats they gave up<br />

on November 6, 1840, never again to be<br />

revived. The Republic had lasted 283 stormy,<br />

turbulent days.<br />

The sandstone and adobe building that<br />

served as the capitol of the Republic of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> has been restored and is now a<br />

historical museum located beside San Augustín<br />

Plaza in Laredo.<br />

MORE<br />

HOSTILITIES<br />

There was very little trouble between the<br />

two countries during Sam Houston’s first term<br />

as president. However, when President<br />

Mirabeau B. Lamar succeeded Houston, he<br />

was more aggressive toward Mexico and the<br />

Indians. The Mexican government retaliated<br />

by repudiating the treaty made by Santa Anna<br />

and began sporadic raids into Texas.<br />

In January 1842 the Mexican army crossed<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and took possession of San<br />

Antonio, Goliad, Victoria, and Refugio. Houston,<br />

again president, ordered out the militia, but the<br />

Mexican raiders returned across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

to Mexico before it could assemble.<br />

The Mexican army came again in September,<br />

with fourteen hundred troops led by General<br />

Adrián Woll. They temporarily captured San<br />

Antonio, but after a battle with the Texas militia<br />

they retreated back to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. A great<br />

demonstration on the part of the Texans<br />

followed General Woll’s invasion into that city.<br />

✧<br />

After the Texans reluctantly surrendered<br />

at Mier, the wounded of both armies<br />

were taken into this Catholic Church<br />

for treatment.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

31


✧<br />

One of five boys taken prisoner at Mier was<br />

John C. C. Hill, then fourteen, who had<br />

joined his father and brother on the<br />

expedition. He broke his treasured rifle<br />

rather than let it be captured by Mexican<br />

soldiers. Impressed by his bravery, Mexican<br />

General Ampúdia sent him to Matamoros,<br />

where he provided food, clothing and shelter<br />

for him and sent him to school. Later, Santa<br />

Anna had him sent to Mexico City, where<br />

the boy lived with the president and, later,<br />

with General José Maris Tornel, who had a<br />

son about his age. Hill graduated from the<br />

Minería as a mining engineer and<br />

physician. Though he wrote his family, he<br />

did not visit them until 1855, the same year<br />

he married Austine Segrado, the sister of a<br />

famous Mexican painter, and they had four<br />

children. Hill rose to prominence in Mexico<br />

and for years was chief engineer for C. P.<br />

Huntington's Mexican railroad enterprise.<br />

He visited in Texas many times and worked<br />

for a while in the land office in Austin as a<br />

translator in clearing land titles. The other<br />

four boy prisoners were eventually returned<br />

to their parents in Texas. By coincidence,<br />

during the Battle of San Jacinto, a Mexican<br />

fifer-boy, Joseph Méndez, was captured by<br />

the Texans and refused to return to Mexico.<br />

John Hill’s father adopted the boy and<br />

reared him as his own. He became a useful<br />

and respected citizen of Texas.<br />

LILLIAN WEEMS BALDRIDGE HISTORICAL COLLECTION.<br />

It was the second time that year that the city had<br />

been plundered, and as an added outrage, the<br />

officers of the District Court, then in session,<br />

had been captured and taken away as prisoners.<br />

THE MIER EXPEDITION<br />

A phase of history of the Republic of Texas<br />

era that affected South Texas and the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> was the ill-advised and tragic<br />

Mier Expedition of 1842. Historians differ<br />

radically over the events leading to and resulting<br />

from this expedition, and much has been<br />

written about it, including diaries and books<br />

of its survivors.<br />

In November 1842, in response to the<br />

Mexican incursions, a ragged and undisciplined<br />

army of 750 Texans left San Antonio<br />

and headed for the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> under the<br />

commend of Brigadier General Alexander<br />

Somervell, a veteran of San Jacinto who had<br />

become secretary of war in the Republic. Most<br />

were volunteers who were not being paid, nor<br />

were they accompanied by sufficient supplies<br />

to sustain the expedition. When word reached<br />

Laredo that the Texan army was coming, the<br />

military commander decided to depart for the<br />

safety of Guerrero, taking with him more than<br />

a hundred frightened citizens. Not a rifle was<br />

fired either in conquest or defiance as the<br />

Texas army entered Laredo.<br />

Short on supplies, Somervell wasted no time<br />

in levying a requisition on the populace. It was<br />

soon found that there was not enough food in<br />

the town to ration the Texas army. When only a<br />

small amount was delivered, many of the<br />

Texans became angry, slipped out of camp<br />

against General Somervell’s orders, and sacked<br />

Laredo. Later they were made to return all<br />

stolen articles, except absolute essentials, and<br />

General Somervell apologized to the alcalde<br />

(mayor) of Laredo for the actions of his men.<br />

While camped at Laredo, a council of war<br />

was called and the captains were asked to<br />

decide whether they should continue or turn<br />

back home. When they hesitated to assume<br />

the responsibility, Somervell asked all soldiers<br />

who were in favor of crossing the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

to step to the right, and those who wanted to<br />

return home to go to the left. Two hundred<br />

passed to the left, and they were placed under<br />

the command of Colonel Bennett to march to<br />

San Antonio.<br />

General Somervell led the remaining troops<br />

toward Guerrero, where they camped opposite<br />

the town. The following morning, the alcalde of<br />

Guerrero appeared at the Texan camp with a<br />

white flag. He said he would place his town at<br />

their disposal if they would refrain from violence<br />

and looting. Somervell promised to keep his men<br />

out of Guerrero if they would provide five days’<br />

rations for his army. Some of the officers were<br />

allowed to visit Guerrero, where they found a<br />

town of two thousand, considerably larger than<br />

Laredo, with well-built houses arranged around<br />

two plazas, well-kept gardens, and several groves<br />

of orange trees.<br />

A cold northwest wind blew into the soldiers’<br />

campsite, bringing with it a deluge of rain.<br />

General Somervell announced to the cold,<br />

hungry men his intention of abandoning the<br />

plan of pursuing the enemy into Mexico, and on<br />

December 19 an order was read directing all to<br />

prepare at once for a return home. Many were<br />

perplexed as to the right course to take. Though<br />

around two hundred decided to obey their<br />

commander and return with him, the remainder<br />

insisted they would stay and fight. After this<br />

second division, General Somervell set off with<br />

his men for San Antonio, evidently convinced<br />

that the expedition could not succeed.<br />

Those remaining had a strong spirit of<br />

adventure and reckless courage and were<br />

loathe to retrace their steps without a battle.<br />

They elected Colonel William S. Fisher, a<br />

veteran of San Jacinto, as their commander.<br />

The Texans seized six barges and several small<br />

boats, which they called their “navy,” and<br />

headed down the river, stopping at various<br />

ranches to confiscate supplies.<br />

When word of the plundering of Laredo<br />

had reached General Pedro de Ampúdia at<br />

Matamoros, he began moving his army up the<br />

river toward Mier and Guerrero. Some of the<br />

Texans marched leisurely along the north<br />

bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, unaware that General<br />

Ampúdia was moving upriver with a large<br />

Mexican army.<br />

The Texans reached the vicinity of Mier on<br />

December 21, 1842. They camped on the<br />

west bank and, as they had done at Laredo<br />

and Guerrero, a party of Texans went to the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

32


town to demand supplies from the alcalde. On<br />

Christmas Day 1842, news arrived in the<br />

Texan camp that no supplies were forthcoming<br />

from Mier. Furthermore, General<br />

Ampúdia had arrived in Mier with an army of<br />

over six hundred men and had seized the<br />

goods that had been gathered for the Texans.<br />

His infantry was on the rooftops of many of<br />

the houses in Mier, his artillery was in place<br />

on the main plaza, and his cavalry occupied a<br />

small hill just east of town. Still determined to<br />

fight the Mexican Army, the Texans advanced<br />

on Mier. The Texans fought their way to within<br />

fifty yards of the main plaza, where they<br />

were thrown back, but did manage to silence<br />

the artillery before the day ended. The<br />

Mexicans launched a brave counterattack on<br />

the morning of December 26, during which<br />

the valor of the Texans was matched by the<br />

bravery of the Mexican soldiers.<br />

Hungry, pressed from all sides, and fatigued<br />

after a long day of spirited fighting, most of the<br />

Texans realized their situation was hopeless.<br />

Fisher agreed to surrender, and the Texans<br />

came in small groups to lay down their rifles,<br />

pistols and swords. The Battle of Mier was over,<br />

and Mexico had won a decisive victory. General<br />

Ampúdia reported 248 Texans captured. Ten<br />

had been killed, and twenty-five wounded<br />

Americans were taken into the old Catholic<br />

church for treatment. The Mexican casualties in<br />

dead and wounded were much higher.<br />

After the battle, General Ampúdia had sent<br />

out a detachment to bring in the men, horses,<br />

and camp furniture that had been left on the<br />

east bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. He ordered the<br />

Texans to surrender. The Texas soldier chosen<br />

as interpreter to shout across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

and order the men to bring the supplies over<br />

called out, instead, “Boys, we are all<br />

prisoners…. Take all the good horses and go.”<br />

All escaped.<br />

As difficult as it was for the Texans to lose<br />

the battle and give up their weapons, more<br />

misery lay ahead. They were marched in pairs<br />

through Camargo and Reynosa to Matamoros,<br />

where they learned they were to be taken to<br />

Mexico City. They retraced their steps to<br />

Camargo, and from there they were marched<br />

to Cerralvo and on to Monterrey. The men<br />

were poorly equipped for such a march. Soon<br />

their shoes were too worn to even tie on their<br />

feet and it was with great difficulty that they<br />

managed to walk at all. The rations were<br />

insufficient and unsatisfying, though the few<br />

who had money assisted the others and along<br />

the route they were able to obtain eggs, milk,<br />

cheese and tortillas.<br />

By February 10 they had reached Salado,<br />

south of Saltillo, where a plan for a break for<br />

liberty was announced. Some strongly<br />

opposed this move, but others believed it the<br />

only way out of their misery. Captain Ewen<br />

Cameron was elected to give the command at<br />

the proper time and to lead the men in their<br />

escape. He called out in English, “Now, boys,<br />

we go it.” An attack was made on the Mexican<br />

guard, and most of the Texans made their<br />

✧<br />

The prisoners who escaped execution after<br />

the “Black Bean Lottery” were marched to<br />

Mexico City, where they worked building a<br />

road, and then to the Castle of Perote, a<br />

prison built by the Spaniards in 1773<br />

between Mexico City and Veracruz.<br />

CHAPTER II<br />

33


escape along with Cameron. They seized a<br />

large amount of arms and a hundred horses.<br />

The Texans soon became separated and<br />

moved into the mountains, where they<br />

became lost. After days of aimless<br />

wandering, too weak to push on any farther,<br />

they surrendered to a detachment of<br />

Mexican cavalry whose camp they stumbled<br />

upon. Some of the Texans had died of<br />

starvation and thirst, but the majority were<br />

recaptured and returned in irons, chained in<br />

pairs, to Salado. Among the latter was their<br />

captain, Ewen Cameron, a tall, twohundred-pound<br />

Scotsman.<br />

Santa Anna was furious when he learned of<br />

the escape. He first sent word to kill all of the<br />

survivors, but the Mexican officers delayed<br />

carrying out the order. Then, on March 7,<br />

1843, it was learned that an order had been<br />

received from Mexico that every tenth man<br />

should be executed.<br />

What followed was the infamous “Black<br />

Bean Incident.” Seventeen black beans were<br />

placed in an earthen jar, along with 159 white<br />

beans. The white ones signified exemption,<br />

and the black death. Cameron’s name was the<br />

first to be called, and he drew a white bean.<br />

The process went on, one bean at a time, until<br />

all of the black beans were drawn.<br />

When the drawing was completed, the<br />

ones who drew the black beans were executed<br />

by firing squad. The execution of Ewen<br />

Cameron was stayed only one month, for on<br />

April 25, the second order for his execution<br />

was sent out from Mexico City and was<br />

carried out a hundred miles from the capitol.<br />

Cameron County was named for him.<br />

The prisoners who escaped execution were<br />

eventually marched to Mexico City, where they<br />

were put to work building a road, and then to<br />

the Castle of Perote, a prison built by the<br />

Spaniards in 1773 located between Mexico<br />

City and Veracruz. There twenty-two died and<br />

a few managed to escape and make their way<br />

back to Texas. Finally, on September 14, 1844,<br />

after a number of prominent Americans<br />

pleaded for their freedom, 110 of the Texans<br />

were released and returned to Texas.<br />

The tales of the “Black Bean Lottery”<br />

became known in every Texas household. In<br />

1846, during the war with Mexico, an<br />

American patrol entered the little ranch<br />

settlement of Salado where the men were<br />

buried. General Walter P. Lane, a member of<br />

the Mier Expedition who had drawn a white<br />

bean, secured permission to exhume the bones<br />

of his dead comrades, and later they were<br />

placed in a memorial near La Grange, Texas,<br />

the home of many of the volunteer soldiers.<br />

The site is visited often by history buffs.<br />

ANNEXATION TO<br />

THE UNITED STATES<br />

Though Texas was operating as an<br />

independent republic, no peace treaty had<br />

been completed with Mexico. The one signed<br />

at Velasco by Santa Anna when he was a<br />

prisoner was never accepted by his country. A<br />

treaty was proposed in early 1844 in which<br />

the two countries agreed to retain the<br />

territory they presently occupied. However, a<br />

problem complicating relations between the<br />

republics of Texas and Mexico was the desire<br />

in Texas for annexation to the United States.<br />

Annexation was opposed by some<br />

members of the United States government<br />

and citizens in the east, but others strongly<br />

supported it. By 1844 the annexation of the<br />

Lone Star Republic had become a major<br />

political issue in the presidential campaign.<br />

James K. Polk, running on an expansionist<br />

platform that called for annexation, was<br />

elected by a large majority.<br />

Seeing the election as a clear mandate for<br />

annexation, a joint resolution calling for Texas<br />

to become part of the Union was maneuvered<br />

through Congress and passed on March 1,<br />

1845, exactly nine years after the Texans<br />

declared their independence from Mexico at<br />

Washington-on-the-Brazos. In a convention at<br />

Austin on July 4, 1845, Texas gave her<br />

approval of the measure and became part of the<br />

United States.<br />

This Texas convention also had for<br />

consideration a proposal by Mexico that it would<br />

recognize the independence of Texas on<br />

condition that annexation to the United States be<br />

rejected, but annexation rather than<br />

independence was the preference of the Texans.<br />

This caused Mexico to break diplomatic relations<br />

with the United States.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

34


THE VALLEY TAKES SHAPE<br />

THE U . S .-MEXICAN WAR — 1846-1848<br />

The long-sought annexation to the United States brought a measure of security to Texas, but it did not<br />

bring peace. In annexing Texas, the United States assumed the responsibility of protecting the boundaries<br />

of its new state, which Texas claimed as the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Mexico said the boundary was the Nueces River,<br />

and that the states of Tamaulipas, Coahuila, and Chihuahua met Texas further to the east and north at<br />

the Nueces River, making the land between the Nueces and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> a part of Mexico.<br />

President Polk, known as an expansionist, first tried for a peaceful settlement to the dispute by<br />

sending John Slidell of New Orleans as an envoy to Mexico City with a proposal to buy the disputed<br />

territory of Texas for up to $20 million, plus a proposal to purchase additional western lands under<br />

Mexican control. However, in January 1846, Polk learned that an indignant Mexico had rejected<br />

Slidell’s diplomatic mission, and after several months the envoy returned to the United States.<br />

Meanwhile, word was received in Washington that Mexico was organizing forces to defend its<br />

claims to the disputed area. General Zachary Taylor was a seasoned officer serving at Fort Jessup,<br />

Louisiana, when he received orders from President Polk and Secretary of War William Marcy to<br />

move his troops to the small village of Corpus Christi by the Nueces River. As directed, Taylor<br />

moved with fifteen hundred men by boat from Fort Jessup to Corpus Christi and set up camp on<br />

the western bank of the Nueces, remaining there from August 1845 to March 1846.<br />

The soldiers wrote home that the climate excelled that of Southern Italy, and hunting and fishing<br />

relieved the boredom of the long hours of hard drill that General Taylor required of his men. Called<br />

the “Army of Observation,” the number of soldiers grew to about four thousand as new recruits<br />

arrived. The troops were healthy and there was plenty of food—fish, fresh beef, venison, and the<br />

supplies they had with them.<br />

“The sea breeze is so fine,” wrote one officer to his wife. “Everything goes smoothly and pleasantly.<br />

The troops drill three hours each day and other little details keep them quite busily employed.”<br />

In early March orders came for Taylor to move his troops to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. As they headed out on<br />

March 11, 1846, the weather was fine, the troops well clad, well fed, well armed, well trained, and<br />

✧<br />

In the process of leading his troops to<br />

Corpus Christi, General Zachary Taylor<br />

and his soldiers crossed the “Wild Horse<br />

Desert,” which, due to rain earlier in the<br />

season, were fields of beautiful wild flowers.<br />

“The thickets were alive with singing birds,”<br />

wrote a soldier.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

35


March 11, 1846, the weather was fine, the<br />

troops well clad, well fed, well armed, well<br />

trained, and impatient for service. Along with<br />

the troops there were supply wagons to provide<br />

food and necessities. The country was described<br />

as “a prairie, level and monotonous with not a<br />

single inhabitant between Corpus Christi and<br />

Matamoros,” a distance of 150 miles. Soon they<br />

entered the sandy area known as the Wild Horse<br />

Desert, described in his memoirs by Ulysses<br />

Grant, then a second lieutenant in Taylor’s army:<br />

✧<br />

Above: General Zachary Taylor, a<br />

seasoned officer stationed in Louisiana,<br />

received orders to move his troops to the<br />

small village of Corpus Christi by the<br />

Nueces River.<br />

Below: Soldiers of a U.S. artillery unit near<br />

Fort Brown show pride in their equipment<br />

before they join the fighting in this painting<br />

at the Port Isabel <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum.<br />

A few days out from Corpus Christi the<br />

immense herds of wild horses were seen<br />

directly in advance of the head of the column<br />

and but a few miles off. The country was<br />

prairie and as far as the eye could reach to our<br />

right, the herd extended. To the left, it<br />

extended equally. There was no estimating the<br />

number of animals in it; I have no idea if they<br />

could have been corralled in the state of<br />

Rhode Island or Delaware at one time.<br />

“There had been rains earlier in the season,<br />

which brought out beautiful wild flowers. The<br />

flowers during today’s march were gloriously<br />

rich; conspicuous above all were the Texas<br />

plume, a beautiful scarlet flower, the Mexican<br />

poppy, and the indigo,” wrote a soldier. “The<br />

thickets were alive with singing birds, and the<br />

ground appeared alive with quail.”<br />

As the army marched along the coast, a fleet<br />

of supply ships steamed down the Gulf toward<br />

Point Isabel, a little port nine miles up the coast<br />

from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. There General Taylor<br />

intended to establish his base of supplies.<br />

Taylor arrived at Point Isabel with part of his<br />

army and established a bastion, which became<br />

Fort Polk, to guard his coastal supply base.<br />

Taylor’s soldiers unloaded the four supply boats<br />

that had arrived at the harbor and established a<br />

supply depot in the small village the Mexican<br />

people called El Frontón de Santa Isabel. After<br />

providing protection for the supply depot,<br />

Taylor joined General Worth, whom he had<br />

dispatched toward the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> a few days<br />

earlier. The two groups met up on March 28,<br />

1846 and proceeded to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

Taylor immediately set his troops to work<br />

on Fort Texas on the north bank of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> just across from Matamoros. Taylor<br />

called it the “Camp opposite Matamoros” and<br />

“The camp on the Left Bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>”<br />

in his official reports. Later the fort was named<br />

Fort Brown. Offshore, Commodore David<br />

Connor’s ships blockaded the coast at the<br />

mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Major Jacob Brown<br />

was placed in charge of Fort Texas, which was<br />

begun on April 8, 1846. As the fort began to<br />

take shape, it resembled a giant snowflake, laid<br />

out with six bastion fronts. It was large enough<br />

to accommodate five regiments, and a tall<br />

flagpole reached skyward from within the<br />

massive earthen walls to fly the Stars and<br />

Stripes of the United States.<br />

Meanwhile, across the river the Mexicans<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

36


also began building earthen fortifications in<br />

which they installed batteries of mortars.<br />

Since affairs were still on a peaceful footing,<br />

American troops took the opportunity to<br />

become acquainted with the dozens of Mexican<br />

families whose shacks were close to the fort. To<br />

the soldiers it seemed that every family had a<br />

goat in the house and a gamecock tied under<br />

the bed. In gardens strung up and down the<br />

river they grew lemons, oranges, figs, peaches<br />

and vegetables. The owners of these small truck<br />

farms were quick to bring chickens, milk and<br />

produce to sell to the troops, and vendors from<br />

Matamoros crossed the river with food and<br />

trinkets to sell to the Americans.<br />

Such friendly exchanges came to an<br />

abrupt halt on April 23, when President<br />

Paredes appeared before the Congress of<br />

Mexico and declared that “from this day<br />

defensive war begins.”<br />

Soon General Mariano Arista arrived in<br />

Matamoros to relieve General Pedro de Ampúdia<br />

with orders to commence action immediately.<br />

The Mexican government was not in a strong<br />

position to respond to the challenge it faced.<br />

Unlike the United States, a nation seventy years<br />

old in 1846, Mexico had been a republic only<br />

twenty-five years and still suffered from long and<br />

costly struggles against colonialism. Lingering<br />

political, social, and economic divisions made it<br />

difficult for the central government to retain<br />

control of its vast northern territories.<br />

Mexican forces that did reach the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> also faced disadvantages. The<br />

country’s turmoil and political opportunism<br />

on the part of some military leaders weakened<br />

the command structure in the field. Its<br />

weapons were antiquated, often left over from<br />

the wars of independence. Many soldiers sent<br />

to oppose the well-equipped United States<br />

army were conscripts, pressed into service<br />

against their will.<br />

However, Mexico did match the United<br />

States in its determination. The young<br />

Republic had its own visions of greatness that<br />

demanded protection of existing borders. The<br />

Mexican public, dismayed by the loss of Texas,<br />

opposed further expansion by its northern<br />

neighbor. Even conscripts demonstrated a<br />

courageous dedication to defense of their<br />

homeland. The conflict of wills pushed the two<br />

nations toward an armed clash.<br />

THE BATTLE OF PALO ALTO<br />

Meanwhile, the two armies continued<br />

activity in the disputed territory. General Arista’s<br />

“Army of the North” marched into the area<br />

between Taylor’s two forts—Fort Polk at Point<br />

Isabel and Fort Texas across from Matamoros—<br />

in an attempt to split American lines of supply<br />

and communication. On May 1, General Taylor<br />

responded. Leaving five hundred men with<br />

Major Brown to hold Fort Texas, Taylor led his<br />

army on a daylong march to Fort Polk to obtain<br />

supplies. These troops successfully evaded<br />

Arista’s forces and reached the coast, but the<br />

next morning before reveille the men could<br />

hear a heavy cannonading and knew that Fort<br />

Texas was under attack.<br />

The war had begun. Among its first casualties<br />

was Major Jacob Brown, who was wounded by<br />

an exploding shell while inspecting the damage<br />

to the fort and died the next day.<br />

Using sailors from Commodore Conner’s<br />

blockade fleet to strengthen defenses at Fort<br />

Polk, Taylor prepared 2,300 troops, assembled<br />

250 wagons full of supplies, and set out to the<br />

aid of Fort Texas. On the morning of May 8,<br />

1846, Taylor’s troops met about four thousand<br />

Mexican soldiers on the plains of Palo Alto,<br />

midway between Fort Polk and Fort Texas.<br />

Arista’s forces formed a battle line to block the<br />

✧<br />

General Mariano Arista, commander of<br />

Mexico’s “Army of the North.”<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

37


✧<br />

The Battle of Palo Alto.<br />

COURTESY OF BROWNSVILLE HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

road and the U.S. forces deployed for combat<br />

in similar formation.<br />

Despite the Mexican advantage in numbers,<br />

artillery would make the difference in the<br />

coming battle. The Mexican army boasted about<br />

twelve cannon, but many were old, as was the<br />

ammunition. This was evident when they<br />

opened battle with an artillery barrage from eight<br />

hundred yards. The projectiles, mostly solid<br />

cannon balls, approached so slowly that U.S.<br />

soldiers could sidestep the incoming rounds.<br />

Newly manufactured American cannons<br />

fired farther and faster than the Mexican arms.<br />

The U.S. forces employed a combination of two<br />

eighteen-pound siege guns, one twelve-pound<br />

howitzer, and seven light, highly mobile sixpound<br />

smoothbores to fire a variety of shells,<br />

explosive case projectiles, and canisters of<br />

multiple shot. Instead of responding with an<br />

infantry bayonet charge, General Taylor opened<br />

with his heavy guns. The American shelling<br />

devastated the Mexican forces, which<br />

steadfastly held their positions. The rain of<br />

metal also kept the Mexican infantry too distant<br />

to threaten with their muskets.<br />

General Arista then ordered a unit of Lancers<br />

under General Anastacio Torrejón to strike<br />

through the brush at the U.S. right flank in an<br />

effort to change the course of battle by seizing<br />

the U.S. supply train. The Fifth U.S. Infantry<br />

repelled this cavalry charge. Marshy conditions<br />

slowed the Mexican maneuver, allowing the<br />

Americans to assume a hollow-square formation<br />

that bristled on the outside with bayonets. A<br />

close-range volley of musket fire halted the<br />

charge, but Torrejón’s horsemen regrouped,<br />

swung around and attempted to strike the<br />

convoy farther to the rear. This time the Third<br />

U.S. Infantry, with assistance from Major Samuel<br />

Ringgold’s fast-moving field artillery, forced the<br />

Lancers back to the Mexican lines.<br />

About 4:00 p.m. the battle briefly halted.<br />

Warm winds off the Gulf of Mexico fanned<br />

smoldering cannon wadding, igniting the thick<br />

grass and cloaking the battlefield in heavy smoke.<br />

Both sides used the lull to collect dead and<br />

wounded, fill canteens, issue ammunition, and<br />

realign troops. Taylor pivoted the entire American<br />

battle line forward toward the opposition. Arista<br />

made similar changes, his troops now facing into<br />

the bright, late afternoon sun.<br />

When fighting resumed around 5:00 p.m.,<br />

Mexican troops reclaimed the offensive,<br />

increasing fire along the front while preparing<br />

to envelop the American line from both ends.<br />

Fighting was fierce. Then a battery of U.S.<br />

horse-drawn artillery broke through the smoke<br />

of battle, its intense, close-range cannon fire<br />

causing immediate and massive destruction.<br />

The battle ended when darkness came, and the<br />

exhausted troops rested for the night.<br />

General Taylor knew the Battle of Palo Alto<br />

had injured but not eliminated the threat posed<br />

by Arista’s army. American casualties numbered<br />

only nine killed and forty-three injured, which<br />

bolstered troop morale. Though estimates of<br />

Arista’s losses ranged much higher, he still<br />

retained a larger number of troops.<br />

Mexican forces passed the night on the<br />

southern edge of the battlefield after hurriedly<br />

tending to the dead and wounded, and then<br />

marched towards Matamoros. Taylor’s victorious<br />

forces camped on the field, and in the morning<br />

his troops buried the remaining Mexican dead in<br />

mass graves and took measures to protect the<br />

supply train from further attack, then marched<br />

in pursuit of Arista’s army.<br />

RESACA DE LA PALMA<br />

The conflicting armies met again on May 9,<br />

1846, five miles to the south along an old<br />

bend of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Mexican military<br />

leaders had prepared defenses for a second<br />

clash, choosing topography that neutralized<br />

the superior American artillery.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

38


At the Battle of Resaca de la Palma, hand-tohand<br />

combat and cavalry charges, not artillery,<br />

carried the day. After harsh fighting, U.S. troops<br />

routed the Mexican defenders and forced<br />

Arista’s remaining troops to retreat across the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, discarding their equipment as they<br />

went, and fleeing in panic for their lives.<br />

Thus ended the first battles of the Mexican<br />

War, the only encounters in the disputed area<br />

between the Nueces and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

It was on May 9, 1846, the day of the Resaca<br />

de la Palma battle, that the Cabinet of the<br />

United States met with President Polk to<br />

consider the situation. Earlier, on April 25,<br />

Mexican forces had encountered an American<br />

patrol at Rancho de Carricitos, about twentyfive<br />

miles upstream from Fort Texas, in which<br />

several U.S. soldiers were killed. President Polk<br />

called this attack an act of war. The President<br />

prepared his war message, which was passed by<br />

the House two days later, ratified by the Senate<br />

the following day and signed by Polk on May<br />

13. Meanwhile, Congress voted a war<br />

appropriation of ten million dollars and gave<br />

the President authorization to call for fifty<br />

thousand volunteers.<br />

This made the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> a household<br />

word throughout the nation as families across<br />

the land bade goodbye to their sons as they<br />

left for the faraway war.<br />

THE WAR MOVES TO MEXICO<br />

Fort Texas was given the name of Fort<br />

Brown in memory of its fallen commander.<br />

Soon the town of Brownsville would build up<br />

around it. Another casualty was Major Samuel<br />

Ringgold, for whom Fort Ringgold of <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City was named. Major Ringgold was<br />

the hero of Palo Alto with his quick and<br />

creative use of his “Flying Artillery,” and it was<br />

at the Battle of Palo Alto where he was<br />

wounded and would later die of his injury.<br />

On May 18, 1846, Taylor began moving the<br />

American forces across to Matamoros, using<br />

captured boats and some Mexican ferries. They<br />

did not meet opposition as General Arista and<br />

his troops had moved inland. Because of a<br />

shortage of water and forage, Taylor realized he<br />

could not march troops into the interior from<br />

Matamoros and sent back to the States for a<br />

fleet of light draft steamers to transport 10,000<br />

men, 4,000 animals, and all supplies upriver to<br />

Camargo, from which they could march<br />

against Monterrey, Saltillo, and Victoria. Soon<br />

the vessels were steaming towards Brownsville.<br />

The summer of 1846 found the U.S. troops<br />

encamped in Matamoros, where they were<br />

joined daily by new recruits from the states.<br />

Volunteer camps were established on both sides<br />

of the river from its mouth to Matamoros. Many<br />

grew ill from dysentery, smallpox, measles and<br />

intestinal disorders, and it is said some even<br />

died of homesickness. On July 26, 1846, the<br />

first detachment of troops proceeded by<br />

steamer to Camargo, where many again came<br />

down with illness. From there, his troops<br />

moved into the interior, where the two armies<br />

would meet again on battlefields with names<br />

like Monterrey, La Angostura, and Buena Vista.<br />

A larger U.S. invasion took several paths. As<br />

General Taylor advanced the first front, General<br />

Stephen Watts Kearny led another force into<br />

New Mexico and California. Finally, in March<br />

1847, an expeditionary force directed by General<br />

Winfield Scott approached by sea and landed at<br />

Veracruz. This army ultimately fought its way<br />

overland to Mexico City, causing reluctant<br />

Mexican officials to negotiate terms for peace.<br />

RESULTS OF THE WAR<br />

The U.S.-Mexican War resulted in<br />

significant loss of life for both nations.<br />

Combat and, more often, disease claimed the<br />

lives of thirteen thousand American troops.<br />

✧<br />

A map of the Palo Alto and Resaca de la<br />

Palma battlefields from Palo Alto<br />

Battlefield, National Park Service, U.S.<br />

Department of the Interior.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

39


✧<br />

Palo Alto Battlefield is now a National<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Site. The National Park Service<br />

is to develop a comprehensive park around<br />

the site. Presentations will acquaint visitors<br />

with Mexican and American historical<br />

perspectives.<br />

Mexican civilian and military casualties<br />

climbed much higher.<br />

The U.S. State Department sent Nicholas P.<br />

Trist to Mexico to work out terms of a peace<br />

settlement. He wanted to secure the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

as the boundary from its mouth to the thirtysecond<br />

parallel, and thence west to the Pacific.<br />

For all of New Mexico, which then included<br />

Arizona, and upper California, he agreed to pay<br />

fifteen million dollars, further pledging that the<br />

United States would pay the claims of its<br />

citizens against the Mexican government. On<br />

February 2, 1848, a treaty was signed at<br />

Guadalupe Hidalgo, a suburb of Mexico City,<br />

and was soon ratified by both governments.<br />

The 1848 Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo at last<br />

established the southern border of Texas and the<br />

United States at the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. It also expanded<br />

the United States by more than half a million<br />

square miles. It completed the expansionist<br />

vision of Manifest Destiny by adding California<br />

and acquiring two of the best natural harbors in<br />

North America, San Francisco and San Diego.<br />

These lands provided a westward-looking nation<br />

with riches, ports, a new frontier, and a push<br />

toward international prominence. How the<br />

United States acquired this vast additional<br />

territory has often been forgotten.<br />

The effect of the war on Mexico was much<br />

more complex. Surrender of California and New<br />

Mexico territories and the disputed border cost<br />

Mexico half of its territory. The trauma of defeat<br />

caused a surge of political and economic chaos<br />

that opened the nation to a new series of<br />

interventions. However, the loss also united a<br />

divided nation with a desire to prevent another<br />

defeat. Against future enemies, Mexicans<br />

abandoned the in fighting and opportunism that<br />

weakened defenses in 1846 and successfully<br />

defended their borders. In time, Mexico<br />

regained confidence, increased domestic unity<br />

and developed national pride based on its<br />

achievements. Nevertheless, the American<br />

invasion has not been forgotten, and an<br />

undertone of distrust lingers in Mexico’s<br />

relations with the United States.<br />

A NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE<br />

On June 23, 1992, an Act of Congress<br />

authorized the creation of the Palo Alto<br />

Battlefield National <strong>Historic</strong> Site at Brownsville<br />

as a unit of the National Park Service. This law<br />

calls for interpretation of the Battle of Palo Alto<br />

and the U.S.-Mexican War, acquainting visitors<br />

with Mexican and American historical<br />

perspectives. Presentations are designed to<br />

emphasize the political, diplomatic, military and<br />

social causes and consequences of these events.<br />

As the first battlefield of the war, Palo Alto<br />

represents a rupture of relations between<br />

neighboring countries that has taken a long time<br />

to heal. As a national park that recalls that war,<br />

Palo Alto Battlefield serves as a reminder that<br />

respect and understanding—not war—is the<br />

legacy toward which both nations must strive.<br />

SOME HEROES & A HEROINE<br />

Wars have a way of making heroes, and the<br />

U.S.-Mexican War certainly had its share of<br />

memorable people, both in and out of battle.<br />

When the war began in 1846, there was<br />

probably no more obscure spot in all the land<br />

than the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas. Sparsely<br />

populated, covered with thick brush, isolated<br />

from the outside world, it was a most unlikely<br />

place from which to launch a promising career.<br />

Nevertheless, it was here that some of the most<br />

prominent national figures of that century took<br />

their first step toward fame and their niche in<br />

America’s destiny.<br />

General Zachary Taylor, who became known<br />

as “Old Rough and Ready, the General who never<br />

loses a battle,” was an experienced and highranking<br />

officer when he was ordered to Texas. He<br />

would have to be the first on the list of the war’s<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

40


heroes, for he fought with great strength and valor<br />

in a war he did not quite approve of initially. His<br />

conduct of the war pleased the American people<br />

and they honored him by making him President.<br />

General Winfield “Fuss and Feathers” Scott<br />

also spent considerable time in the Brownsville<br />

area before commanding the successful<br />

seaborne invasion of Mexico. He was<br />

particularly noted for his magnificent uniforms,<br />

which were in sharp contrast to the “rough and<br />

ready” attire preferred by Taylor. He was<br />

commanding general of the U.S. Army from<br />

1841 to 1861. At the outbreak of the Civil War<br />

he commanded the U.S. Army until November<br />

1861, when age forced his retirement.<br />

General Robert E. Lee made his first trip to<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> in 1847 when he was forty years old.<br />

Later he frequently visited Brownsville, including<br />

a trip in 1860 when he was head of the U.S.<br />

Army’s Texas Department to deal with the<br />

Cortina raids. He became close friends with<br />

Captain Richard King, and the Kings named a<br />

son after him. A former superintendent of West<br />

Point, he was an Army engineer, destined to<br />

become the commanding general of the<br />

Confederate forces in the Civil War.<br />

In addition to these seasoned soldiers, a<br />

legendary group of bright young officers, most<br />

of them fresh from West Point, had their first<br />

combat experience in the Mexican War, most of<br />

it in the Brownsville sector. Two of them would<br />

also become president: Franklin Pierce and<br />

Ulysses S. Grant, destined to oppose Lee as head<br />

of the Federal forces during the Civil War. Later,<br />

in his memoirs, he described his experiences<br />

when under fire for the first time during the<br />

battles of Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma.<br />

George Gordon Meade, an engineer who<br />

would also distinguish himself in the Civil War,<br />

was instrumental in laying out the “Old Military<br />

Highway” between Fort Brown and Fort<br />

Ringgold. During the Mexican War he fought<br />

alongside both Taylor and Scott. In 1863<br />

General Meade was in command of the U.S.<br />

Army of the Potomac when it repulsed Lee’s<br />

Confederates at Gettysburg.<br />

Jefferson Davis was another of General<br />

Taylor’s bright young officers. He rose to<br />

prominence later as president of the<br />

Confederacy. A schoolmate of Lee at West<br />

Point, he married General Taylor’s daughter.<br />

General Lew Wallace visited the area several<br />

times after his service with the military during<br />

the Mexican War, the last time on March 11,<br />

1865, to investigate the French occupation of<br />

Mexico. Wallace later became governor of New<br />

Mexico. He wrote extensively of the Brownsville<br />

area, but is best remembered as the author of the<br />

classic novel Ben Hur.<br />

Another young man who became famous for<br />

his work during this period was George Wilkins<br />

Kendall, the nation’s first war correspondent. He<br />

followed the army into its battles, and wrote<br />

detailed, action-packed accounts of the battles.<br />

Swift horsemen sped his reports across the<br />

tangled brushland to Point Isabel, where they<br />

were placed aboard a steamer bound for New<br />

Orleans. He followed the troops on into Mexico,<br />

where he rushed his stories by fast steamer to<br />

New Orleans. His spicy articles made the New<br />

Orleans Picayune one of the best known and<br />

most frequently quoted papers in the country.<br />

After the war he retired from reporting, bought<br />

a ranch west of San Antonio, became a<br />

cattleman, and had a county named for him.<br />

But perhaps the most colorful figure to emerge<br />

from this historic period was not an officer, not an<br />

enlisted man, not a highly educated person, but a<br />

most unusual woman determined to survive in a<br />

man’s world. At that time, a few women would<br />

travel with the armies in a semi-official capacity as<br />

cooks and laundresses. They were usually wives<br />

of soldiers, tough and self-reliant, and willing to<br />

endure the hardships of army life.<br />

Such a woman flashed across the pages of<br />

history in the late summer of 1845 when she rode<br />

her horse into General Taylor’s military camp at<br />

Corpus Christi. Sarah Borginnis, as she was<br />

known in those days, was a lusty woman with<br />

grayish-blue eyes who stood over six feet tall and<br />

was considered rather attractive despite her size.<br />

She had been with Taylor’s forces in Florida<br />

during battles with the Seminoles, and the Army<br />

was her life. Even after her husband was killed in<br />

action, she cast her lot with the soldiers.<br />

Sarah became known throughout the ranks<br />

as “The Great Western,” a nickname which<br />

probably came from the huge steamer of that<br />

name, the largest in the world in the 1830s and<br />

the second steam vessel to cross the Atlantic<br />

without using sails. Perhaps Sarah resembled<br />

that ship under full steam. She was reputed to<br />

✧<br />

Top: Robert E. Lee.<br />

Middle: Ulysses S. Grant.<br />

Bottom: George Meade.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

41


✧<br />

The 1848 Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo<br />

firmly established the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as the<br />

boundary between the United States and<br />

Mexico. This recent map shows the location<br />

of the cities founded by Escandón and major<br />

U.S. cities established later along the border.<br />

be able to lick any man of her size and weight<br />

in the Army and, under provocation, often did.<br />

She also was a motherly person who attained<br />

a semi-official status with General Taylor’s army.<br />

She laundered uniforms, she cooked for the men,<br />

and in battle she maintained a delicate balance<br />

between bravery and compassion, much admired<br />

and respected by the men of Taylor’s command.<br />

She was preparing breakfast when the firing<br />

started at Fort Texas, later named Fort Brown,<br />

and she continued about her business with shells<br />

exploding on all sides. She served breakfast to all<br />

officers and then carried steaming coffee to<br />

artillerymen engaged in returning the enemy fire.<br />

She cared for the sick and the wounded. During<br />

the shelling that killed Major Brown and an<br />

enlisted man, she had many narrow escapes, but<br />

stayed in the open and tended her fires. She asked<br />

for a musket and ammunition and swore to<br />

defend herself to the end.<br />

A couple of weeks after the battles of Palo<br />

Alto and Resaca de la Palma, a delegation arrived<br />

from Louisiana to present a sword to General<br />

Taylor. A dinner was given for the visitors,<br />

during which many toasts were proposed and<br />

drunk. And then Lieutenant Braxton Bragg, an<br />

artilleryman who had served inside the fort<br />

during the bombardment and who became a<br />

general in the Confederate Army, rose to his feet.<br />

He proposed a toast to the “Heroine of Fort<br />

Brown.” All jumped to their feet with loud<br />

cheers to drink to the Great Western.<br />

When Taylor moved his troops into Mexico,<br />

the Great Western rode with him. Along with<br />

her boundless energy, she was shrewd about<br />

money. Somehow she found time to go into<br />

business for herself in an alien land with which<br />

her country was at war. She set up a hotel in<br />

Saltillo, providing rooms, drinks, and good<br />

cooking for the Army officers and other soldiers<br />

looking for relief from their duties. Her fearless<br />

behavior during the Battle of Buena Vista was<br />

highly praised. It was said that Borginnis dressed<br />

many wounded soldiers and even carried them<br />

out of the thickest fighting.<br />

When peace came, Sarah attached herself to<br />

a cavalry unit headed out of Monterrey for<br />

golden California. She got sick along the way<br />

and never made it to the Golden State. After<br />

much suffering and hardship, she ended up in<br />

El Paso, where she opened another hotel<br />

catering to the Forty-Niners. Later she made her<br />

way to Fort Yuma, Arizona, a desolate, scorching<br />

army post established in 1850. There she<br />

married Albert Bowman, an upholsterer, opened<br />

a restaurant in the raw settlement of Yuma, and<br />

operated it until her death in 1866. She was<br />

buried, with full military honors at Fort Yuma,<br />

the only woman ever to be interred in the post<br />

cemetery. After the Mexican War she had been<br />

commissioned a colonel for her services and had<br />

been made a pensioner of the government on<br />

orders from General Winfield Scott.<br />

Sarah’s death marked the end of an era, for<br />

after the Great Western’s war, women were<br />

never again officially permitted to accompany<br />

their husbands into battle.<br />

PART OF THE UNITED STATES<br />

The military expedition and the results of the<br />

war were important to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> for<br />

many reasons. It gave the people of Texas and<br />

other states their first accurate information of the<br />

type of country over which the quarrel had raged<br />

for so many years. The feasibility of navigation of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was proven, and the new frontier<br />

was opened to Anglo-Americans and to the<br />

greater colonization which followed.<br />

The provisions of the treaty between the<br />

United States and Mexico as they relate to the<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> were: (1) that the<br />

middle of the deepest channel of the river from<br />

El Paso to the Gulf would be the boundary line<br />

between the two republics; (2) that vessels of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

42


oth countries should be entitled to navigation<br />

rights; (3) that all citizens living in the territory<br />

previously belonging to Mexico should retain<br />

their property or, in case they wished to sell it,<br />

they were free to remove the funds received from<br />

same without tax or charge; (4) that those<br />

citizens who preferred to remain in the territory<br />

were given their preference of retaining their<br />

Mexican citizenship, provided intention was<br />

declared within one year, (5) or that they could<br />

have the alternative of acquiring citizenship in<br />

the United States with all its rights. Those who<br />

declared no intention within a year were to be<br />

considered United States citizens.<br />

An estimated seventy-five thousand<br />

Mexicans lived in the conquered territory in<br />

1848, most of whom stayed to become U.S.<br />

citizens. One hundred years had passed since<br />

the founding of the first Spanish colony on the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. During this interim, the children,<br />

grandchildren, and later generations of the<br />

original grantee families sometimes became<br />

separated by the great river on which their<br />

homes and lives had been founded.<br />

Although property rights and citizenship<br />

choice were important considerations, the<br />

private lives of the landowners in the old<br />

Spanish jurisdictions living along the north<br />

bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> were deeply affected.<br />

The settlers often made the property and<br />

citizenship rights and many other decisions with<br />

uncertainty, distrust and bitterness all around.<br />

Accustomed to Spanish law and language, they<br />

had to learn to function under new laws and a<br />

new language. Should they remain on their land<br />

or sell it? If they left it, where would they go<br />

with their families? The year 1848 had to be a<br />

heart-wrenching time for those who decided to<br />

remain in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas and to<br />

rebuild their lives there.<br />

Many property owners found themselves<br />

enmeshed in a tangle of title and tax problems as<br />

well as language difficulties. But through all of<br />

their difficulties with language, law and politics,<br />

the families of many of the old Spanish grantees<br />

firmly held to their land, for the love of the land<br />

for which their ancestors had labored was dear to<br />

them. They learned the ways of the new<br />

government and many studied the English<br />

language, preparing themselves for participation<br />

in affairs of the United States. Soon Mexican-<br />

American leaders emerged to take part in the<br />

leadership of the frontier. From Brownsville to<br />

Laredo, descendants of old Spanish and Mexican<br />

families still form a large part of the population.<br />

Texans can point with pride to the work of<br />

the early Spaniards on the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>,<br />

for the establishment of homes, churches and<br />

schools, for experimentation with irrigation,<br />

stockbreeding, horticulture, and agriculture<br />

from 1748 to 1821.<br />

COUNTIES ARE ORGANIZED<br />

When Taylor’s forces arrived in Corpus<br />

Christi, state officials realized that the Republic<br />

✧<br />

Left: The grandfather of South Texas<br />

counties is San Patricio. From 1836 to<br />

1846, the area had been loosely referred to<br />

as part of San Patricio County, as no<br />

political subdivisions had been established<br />

for the area. While Taylor’s army was<br />

encamped on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, work began<br />

on new political subdivisions.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CORPUS CHRISTI CALLER-TIMES.<br />

Right: In 1846, all of San Patricio County<br />

between the Nueces River and the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> was incorporated as Nueces County,<br />

reaching from Brownsville to Laredo.<br />

Cameron and Starr Counties were formed<br />

in 1848; then Cameron was divided and<br />

Hidalgo County was established in 1852.<br />

The first Willacy County was created from<br />

Cameron County in 1911, then divided into<br />

Willacy and Kenedy Counties in 1921 for<br />

the present boundaries as shown.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CORPUS CHRISTI CALLER-TIMES.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

43


✧<br />

Above: This Cameron County Courthouse in<br />

Brownsville was built in 1883 and used<br />

until 1913. It now serves as the Masonic<br />

Lodge 81, A.F. & A.M. The original roof,<br />

with its gables and central tower, was<br />

removed during remodeling. Two<br />

courthouses have been built since this one<br />

was outgrown.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: Hidalgo County Courthouse in<br />

Hidalgo, c.1914. Built in 1886, it served<br />

until the county seat was moved to Edinburg<br />

in 1908.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

of Texas had made no effort to establish political<br />

jurisdiction over the disputed territory. For ten<br />

years the area had been loosely referred to as<br />

part of San Patricio County. So, while Taylor’s<br />

army was encamped on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, work<br />

began on the creation of new political<br />

subdivisions. On April 18, 1846, the Texas<br />

Legislature passed a special act which provided<br />

for the organization of one large county to take<br />

care of Texas’ interest, to be known as Nueces<br />

County. It was a massive area that included all<br />

land between the Nueces and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

from Laredo to the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

In the same month that the Treaty of<br />

Guadalupe Hidalgo was ratified, special bills were<br />

passed by the Texas Legislature to create three<br />

counties on the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, all to be taken<br />

from the territory formerly included in Nueces<br />

County. The first of these was Webb, approved on<br />

January 28, 1848, with Laredo as its county seat.<br />

It was named for James Webb, a judge who<br />

moved from his native Virginia to Texas during its<br />

Republic days and served as secretary of the<br />

treasury and later secretary of state.<br />

Starr County was established on February<br />

10, 1848, with the county seat located at <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City, which had been called<br />

Carnestolendas and, after 1846, Davis<br />

Landing. The county was named for Dr. James<br />

Harper Starr, a land commissioner in<br />

Nacogdoches County who became interested<br />

in land ownership in Texas and gave up<br />

doctoring to become a land agent.<br />

Cameron County was established on February<br />

12, 1848, and named for Captain Ewen Cameron<br />

of the Mier Expedition. The first county seat was<br />

the ranching town of Santa Rita, which had<br />

prospered with the arrival of Taylor’s forces and is<br />

considered the first English speaking settlement<br />

in the county. However, the county seat was soon<br />

moved to the fast-growing town of Brownsville.<br />

Hidalgo County was created on January 24,<br />

1852, from the western section of Cameron<br />

County. Supporters of the new county, named in<br />

honor of Father Hidalgo, hero of the Mexican<br />

revolution, said the size of Cameron County<br />

made it difficult to travel to Brownsville to<br />

transact business. Among those who worked for<br />

the new county was John Young, who had<br />

established a town opposite Reynosa called<br />

Edinburgh for his native Scotland. At first, the<br />

county seat was at Edinburgh, which would<br />

later become known as Hidalgo. The new, more<br />

centrally located Edinburg (without the “h”)<br />

would become the county seat on October 12,<br />

1908. It was more than a half-century before<br />

Willacy County was created on March 11, 1911,<br />

from parts of Cameron and Hidalgo Counties,<br />

with Sarita as the county seat. It was named for<br />

John Willacy, who served in the Texas<br />

Legislature and as state tax comptroller. On<br />

April 12, 1921, the present Willacy County was<br />

created from a narrow strip of old Willacy<br />

County and parts of Cameron and Hidalgo<br />

Counties, with Raymondville as the county seat.<br />

At the same time, the larger part of old Willacy<br />

County became present Kenedy County.<br />

Once the counties were established, county<br />

governments were organized and political<br />

jurisdictions established. A new set of laws and<br />

officials began the taming of the borderlands,<br />

establishment of new communities, and the<br />

continued development of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Soon the Wild Horse Desert, called El<br />

Desierto de los Muertos (the Desert of the Dead)<br />

by the Mexicans who braved the land of wild<br />

cattle and horses, marauding Indians and<br />

wandering desperados would be no more.<br />

THE EARLY DAYS OF<br />

B ROWNSVILLE<br />

Until Taylor’s forces established Fort Brown<br />

across from Matamoros, there were only<br />

scattered dwellings and small farms on the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

44


northern bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. In anticipation<br />

of United States possession, Americans had<br />

begun to establish themselves on the Texan bank<br />

of the river. To do this they began purchasing<br />

tracts of land from the Mexican owners.<br />

Immediately after the war, Charles Stillman,<br />

an American merchant who lived in Matamoros,<br />

saw a future for the land adjacent to Fort Brown.<br />

Therefore, in June 1848 Stillman with partners<br />

Samuel A. Belden and Simon Mussina, in an oral<br />

agreement, formed a partnership named the<br />

Brownsville Town Company. Stillman<br />

commissioned George Lyons to survey a townsite<br />

and lay out lots. The future town would be<br />

named Brownsville in honor of Fort Brown. On<br />

December 9, 1848, Stillman and his partners put<br />

their verbal agreement into a written contract.<br />

The following year there began a long series of<br />

legal battles that would one day end in the<br />

Supreme Court, for the Brownsville Town<br />

Company had been shocked to learn that the<br />

company had no legal titles to the land. They had<br />

learned that the ayuntamiento of Matamoros was<br />

without power to sell the ejidos and that María<br />

Josefa Cavazos, a niece and heir of Francisca<br />

Cavazos, had obtained a decree from the<br />

Congress of Tamaulipas, declaring that Francisca<br />

Cavazos had never been paid for her land taken<br />

for ejidos and that her heirs were entitled to<br />

repossess the land.<br />

The citizens of the newly formed town of<br />

Brownsville now sought relief from the State of<br />

Texas, which had also claimed the land. The<br />

Third Legislature of Texas passed a law on<br />

January 24, 1850, incorporating the City of<br />

Brownsville and relinquishing to the city all of<br />

the state’s rights, title, and interest in the former<br />

ejidos of Matamoros. The Fourth Legislature of<br />

Texas then repealed this act of incorporation<br />

effective April 1, 1852. Then in a special session<br />

of the same legislature, it reincorporated the<br />

city on February 7, 1853, which kindled a long<br />

series of litigation in both state and federal<br />

courts concerning the title to the land.<br />

The dispute was settled by the United States<br />

Supreme Court, which gave final title to the<br />

original grantee. James Stillman, through various<br />

conveyances, obtained the title to the larger part<br />

of the lands in Brownsville, and his heirs then<br />

conveyed their interests to the New York and<br />

Brownsville Improvement Company in 1881.<br />

Within a few months of its founding, the town<br />

increased to over two thousand inhabitants, brick<br />

store buildings were erected, and many residences<br />

constructed. Elizabeth Street was named<br />

for Stillman’s wife, Elizabeth Pamela Goodrich, a<br />

native of Wetherfield, Connecticut. He was thirtyeight<br />

when he went home in 1849 to visit his<br />

mother and to marry Elizabeth, only twenty, a<br />

gentle, educated, religious woman. He brought<br />

her to the new home he built for her in the new<br />

town in this wild and troubled area. She lived in<br />

Brownsville until after their first two children<br />

were born.<br />

Since cholera and other diseases were<br />

prevalent, she took the children, James and<br />

Isabel, and left for the north. She never<br />

returned, though Stillman spent some time<br />

each year with his family and they had several<br />

more children. By the end of the Civil War,<br />

Stillman was ill and his trip north in 1865<br />

ended his stay in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

However, he continued many of his business<br />

interests in the area through his various<br />

partners and later his son James.<br />

Chauncey Stillman, his great-grandson,<br />

who lived in New York, wrote in his book,<br />

Charles Stillman, that “Captains of his<br />

schooners, sailing between New York and<br />

Brazos Santiago, were instructed to stow all<br />

unused cargo space on board with ebony<br />

chunks from the steamboat woodlots so that<br />

the aging Don Carlos might enjoy the stored<br />

energy of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> sunshine.”<br />

In 1958 Chauncey purchased the colonialstyle<br />

Stillman home on Washington Street in<br />

which his great-grandparents once lived, and<br />

deeded it to the Brownsville <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Association. He also helped financially to<br />

restore and furnish the four front rooms from<br />

heirlooms given to him by his family. It is the<br />

present Stillman House Museum.<br />

In its early days, Brownsville had a population<br />

of Spanish, French, and American merchants<br />

who had been long established in Matamoros,<br />

families who owned the land grants, and former<br />

United States soldiers who had been stationed<br />

there during the U.S.-Mexican War. The dregs of<br />

society were also drawn to the border. They<br />

included escaped criminals, deserters from both<br />

armies of the recent war, gamblers, swindlers and<br />

misfits. Fortunately, the hope of making their<br />

✧<br />

Charles Stillman, founder of Brownsville,<br />

and his wife, Elizabeth Pamela Goodrich<br />

Stillman. The photographs of the<br />

Stillmans are taken from Charles Stillman<br />

1810-1875 by H. Minat Pittman<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

45


✧<br />

Above: William Neale, an English immigrant<br />

to Matamoros in 1834, was the first Anglo<br />

settler to move across the river to the future<br />

site of Brownsville. His home was used<br />

continuously by the Neale family until 1950,<br />

when Mamie Neale Del Valle presented it as<br />

a gift to the Brownsville Art League.<br />

Below: “Kino” Camarillo has lived and<br />

worked at Stillman House for sixty-five<br />

years. In this picture he stands in front of a<br />

pecan tree he planted soon after he and his<br />

family moved into quarters by the courtyard.<br />

There he raised two sons and two daughters,<br />

some of whom now assist at the museum. He<br />

also has worked for sixty years and helped<br />

serve communion at the Immaculate<br />

Conception Church, taking off during World<br />

War II to march through Italy with the<br />

Eighty-eighth Division of the Fifth Army.<br />

fortune in the California gold rush soon lured the<br />

undesirables westward.<br />

The rush for gold also brought hundreds of<br />

other Forty-Niners through Brownsville,<br />

which became an outfitting point for their<br />

move westward. They had sailed from the east<br />

coast, and their route would take them via<br />

river steamer to Camargo and then by horse<br />

or foot through Mexico to California. Some<br />

decided to stay in Brownsville because of the<br />

climate and the promise of productive land.<br />

Among leading merchants of the time, in<br />

addition to Stillman, were José San Román, a<br />

successful Spanish merchant in both Brownsville<br />

and Matamoros, and Francisco Yturria, born of<br />

Spanish parents in Matamoros. Yturria married<br />

Felicitas Treviño, whose father had been<br />

awarded the San Martín land grant by the<br />

Mexican government. He established the Yturria<br />

Bank in 1854 and had extensive land holdings in<br />

five counties. His descendants remain prominent<br />

in Brownsville’s business and community life<br />

and in the <strong>Valley</strong>’s ranching industry.<br />

Another familiar name from Brownsville’s early<br />

history is William Neale, an English emigrant<br />

who arrived in Mexico in 1821, settling in<br />

Matamoros in 1834. He operated a stage line<br />

between Matamoros and Bagdad at the mouth of<br />

the river, and later between Brownsville and Point<br />

Isabel. He is said to be the first Anglo settler to<br />

move across the river to the future site of<br />

Brownsville. He lived to age ninety, locally famous<br />

as historian, raconteur, wit and genial host.<br />

Neale’s Brownsville residence, which he built<br />

around 1850, was made of the finest materials<br />

and workmanship, and the one-story frame<br />

building survived the hurricanes of 1867 and<br />

1933. It was used continuously by members of<br />

the Neale family until 1950, when Mamie Neale<br />

del Valle presented it to the Brownsville Art<br />

League. His grandson, also named William A.<br />

Neale, who worked for the U.S. Customs Service<br />

from 1909 to 1932, filled much the same place<br />

in community life that his grandfather had filled<br />

half a century before. He was “oldest inhabitant,”<br />

historian and tester of the truth of old tales.<br />

Brownsville’s early culture was cosmopolitan,<br />

as English, French, German, and Spanish were<br />

spoken. Americans absorbed Spanish customs<br />

and culture as they participated together in the<br />

social, civil, business and military affairs of the<br />

community. Fort Brown played an important<br />

role in the social and political activities of the<br />

community, sharing dances, musicals, and<br />

church entertainment with the citizenry. A<br />

strong French influence also developed through<br />

trade with New Orleans and the arrival of<br />

Catholic priests and nuns from France. The city<br />

was well developed by the beginning of the<br />

1860s, during which it would play a pivotal role<br />

in another great war.<br />

RELIGION COMES TO<br />

THE VALLEY<br />

There were no churches, preachers or<br />

priests to serve the people of Brownsville and<br />

the far-flung ranches of the area. At the request<br />

of Brownsville citizens, Bishop Jean Marie Odin<br />

of Galveston went to Montreal in 1848 to see if<br />

the relatively new religious order called the<br />

Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate from<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

46


France would send priests for mission work.<br />

His request was approved, and in 1849 he and<br />

four Oblates started their journey from Canada<br />

to South Texas. They traveled down the<br />

Mississippi River to New Orleans and finally,<br />

two months after they started their trip, they<br />

arrived in Point Isabel on December 2, 1849.<br />

They were welcomed by the townspeople<br />

and given food to eat and a shed for sleeping.<br />

They established a church in Brownsville and<br />

began to visit the outlying ranches, facing disease,<br />

rough terrain, rattlesnakes, and border<br />

bandits. Most had to learn both Spanish and<br />

English, since their native language was<br />

French. The priests faced so many hardships<br />

that they were recalled after a year and a half,<br />

but returned in 1852. From that beginning<br />

grew the Cavalry of Christ, a group of Oblate<br />

priests who traveled by horseback to the<br />

ranches scattered over hundreds of square<br />

miles. A second mission was established in<br />

Roma in 1866 to serve the upper <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

including <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City and west to San<br />

Ignacio. A little chapel was built at La Lomita<br />

Ranch south of Mission to serve as a meeting<br />

place and way station.<br />

Many stories have been told of the Oblates<br />

as they rode their horses to distant ranches,<br />

performing marriages, baptizing children,<br />

preaching sermons, comforting the sick and<br />

dying, and hearing confessions. It is said that,<br />

in twenty-five years, two of the hardier<br />

priests, Father Jules Piat and Father José<br />

María Clos, covered at least 175,000 miles on<br />

horseback, or a distance of seven times<br />

around the earth at the equator.<br />

Father Pierre (Peter) Keralum was an architect<br />

in France before he became an Oblate<br />

priest at age thirty-five. Because of his talents<br />

as a designer and architect, in 1852 he was<br />

sent with the group to Texas. He designed and<br />

supervised the building of the Gothic-style<br />

Immaculate Conception Church at<br />

Brownsville, begun in 1854 and completed in<br />

1859, still a city treasure. He also built a<br />

church in Roma, of which the spire was preserved<br />

when a new church was built, and<br />

inspired several other Gothic style chapels<br />

and churches in the area. But his main love<br />

was serving the people on the ranches, and he<br />

worked for twenty years with the greatest<br />

devotion, visiting the seventy ranches of his<br />

district at least three times a year.<br />

Despite declining health and failing<br />

eyesight, he continued to make his visits, and<br />

on November 9, 1872 he started on horseback<br />

from Brownsville through the mesquite jungle<br />

to distant mission stations, planning to return<br />

around the New Year. But this was his final<br />

trip, as he became lost after leaving the<br />

Tampacuas Ranch, four miles north of the<br />

present city of Mercedes. His horse was found<br />

three days later, but an intense search failed to<br />

find the beloved Padre Pedrito. It was ten<br />

years before two cowboys in search of some<br />

cattle came upon his remains in the dense<br />

brush. His chalice, cross, an altar bell and<br />

other items were found nearby. Thus the<br />

mystery of the beloved lost missionary was<br />

solved. His mysterious death strengthened his<br />

legacy, and he is honored and remembered in<br />

historical publications and museums.<br />

Other religions soon followed the Oblates,<br />

with Presbyterian, Episcopal and Methodist<br />

churches established by 1851. Reverend Hiram<br />

Chamberlain arrived in 1849 and founded the<br />

Presbyterian Church, the first Protestant Church<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong>. Moving to Brownsville with him<br />

was his high-spirited young daughter, Henrietta,<br />

who soon caught the eye of the rugged young<br />

riverboat captain named Richard King. They<br />

married four years later and together they<br />

established their famous ranching empire.<br />

✧<br />

Girls from all over South Texas studied at<br />

the Convent of the Incarnate Word and<br />

Blessed Sacrament, which was blessed and<br />

opened in December 1868 to replace the<br />

second convent destroyed in the hurricane of<br />

1867. The Sisters of the order once assisted<br />

St. Joseph’s College by teaching small boys.<br />

The building was razed in 1969.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

47


✧<br />

The Immaculate Conception Church was<br />

designed by Father Peter Keralum, O.M.I.<br />

When built by the Oblates in 1859, it was<br />

considered the finest example of Gothic<br />

architecture in America.<br />

In addition to the need for churches, there<br />

was also a desperate need for education in the<br />

growing community. Responding to that need,<br />

four Sisters of the Incarnate Word and Blessed<br />

Sacrament from Lyons, France, arrived in<br />

January 1853 to establish the Incarnate Word<br />

Academy for young women. In 1854 Reverend<br />

Chamberlain opened a “male school.” Melinda<br />

Rankin, founder of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Female<br />

Institute, gave instructions in “English branches<br />

of education” and in French, music, and<br />

painting, and public education began in 1854.<br />

Schools and churches meant that a city<br />

was emerging.<br />

STEAMBOATS ON<br />

THE RIO GRANDE<br />

The rapid growth of Brownsville was closely<br />

tied to commercial steamboat navigation on the<br />

river. Today the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> is a shallow, slowmoving<br />

stream, except in times of heavy rains.<br />

Criss-crossed with bridges and filled with<br />

treacherous sandbars, it is difficult to imagine<br />

that steamboats once moved upstream and<br />

back, filled with people, mail and merchandise.<br />

Yet, for several decades steamboats provided<br />

the main transportation upriver to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City and Camargo, and on to Roma when the<br />

river was high. First, they carried soldiers and<br />

supplies for General Taylor’s army. Then they<br />

carried staple goods and rare tobaccos, rough<br />

lumber and fancy silks for overland transport<br />

by carts and mule trains the rest of the way to<br />

the people of the border and the mining towns<br />

of northern Mexico.<br />

Attempts were made to navigate the<br />

river before the Mexican War, but existing boats<br />

were not adapted for the shallow channels of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Neither did Matamoros<br />

merchants encourage river navigation, for they<br />

zealously guarded the lucrative trade with<br />

northern Mexico supplied by trains of carts. It<br />

was not until General Zachary Taylor decided to<br />

use steamboats to take men and supplies<br />

upriver to Camargo during the U.S.-Mexican<br />

War that boats were used successfully.<br />

The Corvette was the first boat brought in<br />

for Taylor’s use—a luxury liner from the<br />

Mississippi, and its skipper was Captain Mifflin<br />

Kenedy. As many as ten steamboats were used<br />

to shuttle men and supplies back and forth<br />

during the war. The military maintained the<br />

boats until the last soldiers had left northern<br />

Mexico about November 1847. Taylor came<br />

back from his famous victory at Buena Vista by<br />

horseback to Camargo, and the steamer Colonel<br />

Cross carried him downstream with young<br />

Captain Richard King at the helm.<br />

When the military mission ended, the<br />

Quartermaster was left with eleven riverboats<br />

of all shapes and sizes tied up in Brownsville,<br />

and they were advertised for auction. The<br />

Colonel Cross went to its former skipper for<br />

$750, and other boats were purchased by<br />

Charles Stillman, who saw a way to greater<br />

wealth by shipping merchandise by boat.<br />

Operating for profit in private ownership,<br />

it soon became apparent that the boats were<br />

not satisfactory on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. They<br />

broke down too often and stuck aground, losing<br />

revenue in delays and costly repairs. They<br />

were not built sturdy enough for the rough<br />

sea from Brazos Santiago to the river mouth<br />

and their cranky engines lacked power.<br />

With hard work, King made a reasonable<br />

profit from his one boat, but the Stillman boats<br />

were losing money. Stillman asked his friend<br />

Mifflin Kenedy to become his partner and turn<br />

the business into a profitable operation, to which<br />

Kenedy agreed if Richard King would join them.<br />

Thus, M. Kenedy & Company was organized in<br />

1850, with the provision that Stillman would<br />

finance the building of special boats for the<br />

navigational hazards of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

48


King designed two kinds of boats—one a big<br />

and stout brute side-wheeler to carry large loads<br />

from Brazos Harbor to the river mouth and on<br />

as far upstream as practical, and then an upriver<br />

boat with powerful boilers that could “float in a<br />

light sweat.” The boats were built on special<br />

order in Pittsburgh, with the first ones named<br />

the Grampus and the Comanche. The Grampus<br />

took merchandise as far as it could navigate to<br />

their terminal ten miles upriver or on to<br />

Brownsville. Then goods were transferred to the<br />

Comanche for the rest of the route. Other boats<br />

were added, including the Ranchero.<br />

It was a good system and they were blessed<br />

with good luck when the Matamoros<br />

merchants decided to use the steamboats to<br />

transport their goods upriver and into Mexico.<br />

Stillman withdrew after the Civil War and the<br />

name became “King, Kenedy & Company.”<br />

During twenty-four years of continuous<br />

business, the two companies bought and<br />

operated about twenty-six boats.<br />

The Civil War years were turbulent ones<br />

along the river. Just as the steamers were<br />

beginning to move quantities of Confederate<br />

cotton to the booming Mexican port of Bagdad<br />

for shipment to Europe, one of Lincoln’s sloops<br />

of war, the Portsmouth, with twenty-two guns,<br />

arrived at Brazos Santiago. They were sure to<br />

fire on the steamboats, sailing under the<br />

Confederate flag.<br />

The boats were pulled out of service, but not<br />

for long. In a few days they were flying the neutral<br />

flag of Mexico with a front of Mexican ownership<br />

and registry, which placed titles in the names of<br />

friends and business connections in Matamoros.<br />

Without a change in crew or supervision, the<br />

boats began a boomtime business hauling cotton<br />

under the noses of the Union blockaders, lasting<br />

from the spring of 1862, when cotton was sixteen<br />

cents a pound, until the war’s end in 1865, when<br />

the price ranged from sixty-eight cents to over a<br />

dollar a pound.<br />

They also supplied the Confederate forces<br />

along the border with items that had passed<br />

through “neutral” customs, such as cases of<br />

Enfield rifles labeled “Hollow Ware,” barrels of<br />

gunpowder branded “Bean Flour,” boxes of<br />

percussion caps bearing the legend “Canned<br />

Goods” and the like, as well as food and other<br />

supplies. They emerged from the war with their<br />

boats and fortunes reasonably intact. After<br />

receiving presidential pardons for their rebel<br />

activities, Kenedy and King again hauled<br />

supplies for the U.S. Army quartermaster as they<br />

took stock of the boats and reorganized for<br />

peacetime business. Other companies also<br />

operated steamboats during this period.<br />

The boats became key factors in the economy<br />

of the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and a wide section of<br />

✧<br />

Above: A painting in the La Borde House<br />

Restaurant in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City depicts the<br />

excitement of the townspeople when the<br />

steamboats docked there. They brought<br />

people, merchandise, and news of the<br />

outside world.<br />

Below: Memories of the steamboating days<br />

are preserved in many ways. This painting<br />

on tile of the Ranchero is in the home of<br />

Laurier McDonald, an Edinburg attorney,<br />

historian, and collector of early <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> memorabilia.<br />

CHAPTER III<br />

49


✧<br />

Above: This flier gives the schedule of<br />

Bessie, the last steamboat on the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. After King and Kenedy turned<br />

their attention to ranching, William Kelly<br />

owned and operated the steamboat service.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Below: Merchandise is shown being<br />

unloaded from the steamboat Bessie to<br />

wagons at Rancho de Santa María. The<br />

Bessie carried a four-hundred-pound bell<br />

instead of a whistle. After its final trip on<br />

the river in 1902, the bell had several<br />

owners before it was moved to St. Joseph the<br />

Worker Church in McAllen in 1975.<br />

northeastern Mexico. They brought visible<br />

changes along the river as towns and settlements<br />

prospered. Although <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City was the<br />

year-round head of steamboat navigation,<br />

steamboats could travel to Roma and beyond for<br />

at least the seven months from June to November.<br />

Author-educator Florence Johnson Scott of<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, who did much research on the<br />

steamboat era, said in a visit with the author in<br />

1972: “Many of the businessmen have told me<br />

that the boat whistle would sound at the landing<br />

at Ringgold and no matter what time of the day<br />

or night, everybody would drop what they were<br />

doing and rush to greet it. The boat brought the<br />

mail, the news of the outside world, and people.<br />

They would look at everybody as they got off,<br />

whether he was a gangster, officer, or whether he<br />

was going to spend some money in the town.”<br />

But changes were coming. The steamboat<br />

business experienced a steady decline and by<br />

June 1867 all but one of the steamers were tied<br />

up, idle. In late 1867 the border suffered a<br />

blow which put finishing touches to its already<br />

well-developed postwar depression. A<br />

hurricane roared in from the Gulf and ripped<br />

at Brownsville and Matamoros, causing great<br />

damage to both towns.<br />

Wind and water destroyed the busy wartime<br />

port of Bagdad in Mexico and Clarksville on the<br />

U.S. side, and knocked flat most of the buildings<br />

at Brazos Santiago and Port Isabel. The terminal<br />

of the riverboat captains ten miles upriver was<br />

destroyed and four steamboats were sunk.<br />

The whole economy of the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

staggered. King seems to have felt this damage<br />

was a signal to quit the river and devote full<br />

time to his ranch, and Kenedy also became a<br />

rancher. Faced with the dwindling away of a<br />

business that had seen golden days but saw<br />

them no longer, the firm was sold to Captain<br />

William Kelly, one of the company’s most able<br />

skippers, who was backed by border<br />

merchants. But the steamboats could not<br />

compete with the Iron Horse.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad Company built<br />

a narrow-gauge railroad from Port Isabel<br />

to Brownsville in 1871 to carry merchandise<br />

direct from the ships at Brazos Santiago<br />

Pass to Brownsville, and by 1880 a railroad was<br />

built from Corpus Christi to Laredo by the<br />

Texas-Mexico Railroad. This changed the entire<br />

importing system. Merchandise could be<br />

unloaded at Corpus Christi and sent by train to<br />

Laredo and into Mexico. Though efforts already<br />

were under way to bring a railroad to the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

it would be 1904 before the first train roared<br />

into Brownsville.<br />

The fleet of steamboats which had played<br />

such a great role in the economic life of the<br />

border finally dwindled to one small steamer<br />

named the Bessie. It is said that the last boat ride<br />

was taken about 1903 by a group of students<br />

from Roma who chartered it to ride to<br />

Brownsville to enter an academy and the Bessie<br />

was never heard from again. However, the bell<br />

that announced its arrival to stops along its river<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

50


TAMING A WILD COUNTRY<br />

WILD CATTLE COUNTRY<br />

The legendary Texas Longhorns had been roaming and multiplying in the wide expanses of the<br />

Texas plains since the 1700s. They were the descendants of the Spanish breeds of cattle brought<br />

first to the West Indies by Columbus, where they thrived and provided stock for export to the later<br />

settlements of New Spain. Cattle also were brought directly from Spain to the haciendas of New<br />

Spain by settlers, and on to the missions over Texas by the padres who hoped to Christianize the<br />

Indians. The cattle provided food and helped make the missions self-sustaining. By the early<br />

1800s, most of the missions had been abandoned and the cattle left to run wild when the padres<br />

became discouraged and the Spanish government withdrew its financial support.<br />

Spanish cattle also were among the possessions brought to the colonies established along the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in the mid-1700s. Ranches were established on both sides of the river and some<br />

of the land grantees built homes and corrals on the north side in what is now the United States,<br />

living for a time on their ranches. However, when hostile Indians swept down and destroyed their<br />

homes, families fled back across the river to the established towns. Again, cattle and sometimes<br />

horses were left behind, which over time produced the wild mustangs of the Wild Horse Desert.<br />

Wild, ownerless cattle of various shades and colors roamed the dry, lonely land looking for food<br />

and water. Only the fittest survived, and they learned to live without the help of man. They thrived<br />

and increased in numbers, becoming heavier and rangier than their forebears. Long-legged and<br />

✧<br />

Wild, ownerless cattle roamed the dry,<br />

lonely land of the Wild Horse Desert. Only<br />

the fittest survived, and they learned to live<br />

without the help of man.<br />

COURTESY OF THE PORT ISABEL HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

51


✧<br />

A Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission marker<br />

near the Gateway International Bridge in<br />

Brownsville was dedicated in 1995 to<br />

commemorate the southernmost part of the<br />

Chisholm Trail. The famous cattle trail,<br />

named for trailblazer and trader Jessie<br />

Chisholm, allowed <strong>Valley</strong> and Texas<br />

ranchers to move large herds to the railroad<br />

in Kansas and on to eastern markets.<br />

long-walking as well as long-horned, they<br />

could endure thirst and fight off wolves and<br />

even bears. The curves of the horns, often<br />

beautiful, were as varied as the colors of their<br />

hair, and some older animals had spreads up<br />

to eight or nine feet from tip to tip. Fast as a<br />

deer, wild, and protective of their young, these<br />

animals formed the basis of the cattle industry<br />

of the Southwest.<br />

After the Civil War, about the only thing<br />

Texans found in abundance when returning<br />

home, broke and destitute, were Longhorn<br />

cattle. Though Texas had not been too badly<br />

scarred by the military conflict, the state’s<br />

economy was badly wrecked like that of the<br />

rest of the Confederacy. The borders of Texas<br />

were bulging with Longhorns, hundreds of<br />

thousands without brand and ownerless, but<br />

markets were as scarce as cattle were plentiful.<br />

Outlets to the depressed South and Mexico<br />

were limited, so Texans turned their eyes to<br />

the beef-hungry North. Texas had no railroads<br />

and few roads of any kind. When the Kansas<br />

Pacific Railroad pushed westward across the<br />

prairie and reached Abilene, Kansas, in the<br />

spring of 1867, cattle dealers built a big<br />

stockyard and a hotel and announced that<br />

they wanted cows—lots of them. The word<br />

traveled fast down the Gulf Coast and the<br />

days of the big cattle drives along the storied<br />

Chisholm Trail began, as did the legends<br />

about them.<br />

The journey took as long as ten months<br />

and required the stamina of a strong and<br />

durable animal. The raw-boned Longhorn<br />

became king of the trail, for only this longlegged<br />

beast could have tramped up that trail,<br />

enduring the drought, floods and blizzards.<br />

He could rustle his own living, battle swollen<br />

rivers, and race from prairie fire.<br />

A feeder route of the storied Chisholm Trail<br />

that roughly paralleled U.S. Highway 281, took<br />

many thousands of the Longhorns from the<br />

Wild Horse Desert up the trail to Abilene.<br />

In the spring of 1870, Richard King began<br />

the first of his big cattle drives to Abilene,<br />

eleven hundred miles away, across twenty<br />

rivers, through the Oklahoma Territory, and<br />

finally to Abilene. Most of the cattle arrived in<br />

good condition and brought twenty gold<br />

dollars a head. During the years of the trail<br />

drives, more than 100,000 head of King<br />

Ranch cattle headed up the trail to help feed a<br />

beef-hungry nation and to help stock the<br />

ranches of a new industry.<br />

The long trail drives peaked in 1871 with<br />

seven hundred thousand cattle. By 1886 the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

52


THE VAST KING RANCH<br />

cattle spree clearly showed signs of playing<br />

out and the end of the trail was in sight.<br />

Railroad transportation was expanding and<br />

northern beef was available again. Times were<br />

changing. By 1890, when the trails were<br />

plowed under and fenced across, ten million<br />

Longhorns had been driven out of Texas. As<br />

rain beat out twenty years of prints from ten<br />

million Longhorns and grass spread over the<br />

three-hundred-mile-wide Chisholm Trail,<br />

cowmen adjusted themselves to a new<br />

economy of fenced ranches, improved cattle<br />

breeds, and shipments by rail.<br />

Longhorns were eventually nearly bred out<br />

of existence in favor of meatier types, but a<br />

few are preserved today in government and<br />

private herds, and a select few are visible to<br />

King Ranch visitors on their guided tours.<br />

Today, few physical traces are left of the<br />

Chisholm Trail, but it served the times well. It<br />

had provided a market when ranchers were<br />

overstocked with cattle and short of cash,<br />

spurred settlement and stocking of northern<br />

ranges, brought down the price of beef for the<br />

housewife and helped make beef the chief meat<br />

item on the dinner table. It had shown Texas<br />

cowmen the need for improved breeds and<br />

given them the means to bring in blooded<br />

stock, as well as to improve their ranches. The<br />

trail drives also gave thousands of young men<br />

an opportunity for adventure and provided<br />

subjects for epic literature, art, movies, and<br />

television scripts.<br />

With the steamboat business going well, in<br />

1853 Captain Richard King accepted an invitation<br />

to attend the Lone Star Fair in Corpus<br />

Christi being promoted by the town’s swashbuckling<br />

founder, Henry Lawrence Kinney.<br />

The fair, over-promoted and under-supported,<br />

proved disastrous for Kinney, but it had a<br />

lasting effect on the area between the Nueces<br />

and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and on the cattle industry<br />

of Texas.<br />

The steamboat business was prosperous<br />

but hazardous, and King was thinking of<br />

other investments, like land. He welcomed<br />

the opportunity to explore the area between<br />

Brownsville and Corpus Christi. The 165-mile<br />

trip took four to five days on horseback<br />

through country usually visited only by<br />

Indians, hide peelers, mustangers and assorted<br />

roaming cutthroats. No one had tried to<br />

buy land in the heart of that desert for many<br />

harsh years, but it appealed to King. Grass<br />

grew almost knee high, with flexible golden<br />

blades bent westward in big billows by the<br />

wind, for only part of the land had been made<br />

brushy by the wandering herds, which could<br />

become the initial stock for a cattle operation.<br />

King and his party came to a creek when<br />

124 miles from Brownsville and still 45 miles<br />

to Corpus Christi. It was called the Santa<br />

Gertrudis, an oasis with cool, sweet water to<br />

refresh the traveler and large mesquite trees<br />

✧<br />

Above: Captain Richard King.<br />

Below: The Santa Gertrudis Creek Bridge.<br />

According to tradition, the bridge dates<br />

back to the Civil War years when wagons<br />

loaded with Confederate cotton crossed<br />

the creek.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

53


✧<br />

Top: The King Ranch great house became<br />

famous for its hospitality through periods of<br />

war, bandits, droughts, good markets and<br />

bad ones, a stopping place for wayfarers.<br />

Above: Modern day cowboys take time out<br />

to rest and tell tall tales. Several generations<br />

of Los Kineños tended cattle and raised<br />

their families on the King Ranch.<br />

that provided protection from the sun. At the<br />

fair, King and a friend, Texas Ranger Captain<br />

Gideon “Legs” Lewis, formed a partnership to<br />

establish and operate a livestock operation<br />

with headquarters at the site on the creek.<br />

The land was part of a 15,500 acre grant<br />

known as the Rincon de Santa Gertrudis. King<br />

purchased the property, paying the widow of<br />

Juan Mendiola $300, then considered a fair<br />

price, which came to two cents an acre. When<br />

he set up his cow camp by the Santa Gertrudis,<br />

it was the opening gambit of his bid to tame the<br />

Wild Horse Desert, and a sign of his willingness<br />

to do battle with the marauding Apaches from<br />

the north, the bandits who raided from south of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, and with the tough, intractable<br />

land itself. It was the beginning of a dream he<br />

would pursue for the rest of his life, as would<br />

his family after him.<br />

When King introduced his young<br />

Presbyterian bride Henrietta to the rigors of<br />

early ranch life in 1854, she loved it—danger,<br />

hardships, and all. The Santa Gertrudis<br />

became the headquarters ranch, and on the<br />

spot by the creek where the land was high,<br />

they built their home. The ranch became<br />

famous for its hospitality through periods of<br />

war, bandits, droughts, good markets and bad<br />

ones, a stopping place for wayfarers, a sort of<br />

city of refuge for all classes, presided over by<br />

the gracious Henrietta.<br />

In 1855, King lost his friend and partner,<br />

“Legs” Lewis, to a bullet just as they were getting<br />

organized, a loss keenly felt, but King was<br />

committed to his dream. Soon his friend and<br />

steamboat partner Mifflin Kenedy joined the<br />

ranching enterprise, and they continued to<br />

extend the ranch holdings. Land was cheap, but<br />

it took time to find the owners, their heirs, and<br />

get titles cleared. For this job King chose the<br />

highly respected lawyer, Stephen Powers of<br />

Brownsville. He had come from high posts in<br />

Washington to head the New York Volunteers<br />

during the Mexican War and stayed in<br />

Brownsville to establish his law firm in 1850.<br />

What began as a business relationship became a<br />

friendship that lasted the rest of their lives.<br />

With additional land, more stock was<br />

needed, and they bought cattle from Camargo,<br />

Mier, and other ranches in northern Mexico,<br />

then in a long drought. One little hamlet<br />

found itself without a livelihood after selling<br />

its bony stock. The captain offered to settle the<br />

entire community on the Santa Gertrudis, to<br />

which they agreed. The resulting entrada had<br />

more than a hundred men, women and<br />

children, their belongings piled high on<br />

rickety carretas and packsaddle burros.<br />

The transplanted hamlet took root, furnishing<br />

the seed for a tough, proud, special<br />

breed of vaqueros called Los Kineños, the King<br />

People. Some of their descendants continue to<br />

work on the King Ranch today. Henrietta<br />

established a primary school for the children<br />

and encouraged them to continue their education<br />

in Kingsville and beyond.<br />

During the Civil War, the area between the<br />

Nueces River and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

54


ack door to the Confederacy and a way<br />

around the Union blockade of Confederate<br />

ports. King Ranch became a depot on the<br />

Cotton Road over which hundreds of thousands<br />

of bales of cotton were shipped to<br />

Matamoros. From there, the cotton was trundled<br />

to ships of foreign registry and shipped<br />

to European markets.<br />

In 1868, King’s partner, Mifflin Kenedy,<br />

decided to move his family to Corpus Christi,<br />

and the partnership ended amicably. They<br />

divided the cattle equally, and Kenedy<br />

established a ranch on twenty-six leagues of<br />

the Laureles grant just east of the Santa<br />

Gertrudis that he acquired from the brother of<br />

Charles Stillman.<br />

Richard King died in 1885 with debts of<br />

$500,000, as his fortune had gone into fences,<br />

new land and better horses. His widow, with<br />

son-in-law, Robert Kleberg, Sr., as ranch manager,<br />

set about paying off the debts, improving<br />

the cattle, increasing and consolidating the<br />

ranchlands. Henrietta survived her husband<br />

by forty years and left the ranch in good<br />

financial condition in the hands of her son-inlaw<br />

and his son, Robert Kleberg, Jr.<br />

Kleberg found artesian wells that would<br />

produce vital drinking water for the herds and<br />

spearheaded the development of a special<br />

breed of cattle that could function in hot,<br />

humid and unfavorable environments. Called<br />

Santa Gertrudis, the breed was developed by<br />

crossing Indian Brahman with British<br />

Shorthorn. In 1920 those matings produced a<br />

particular bull calf, deep red in color, with<br />

conformation that impressed everyone<br />

involved. They called him “Monkey” and he<br />

became the foundation sire of the first beef<br />

breed that was recognized by the U.S.<br />

Department of Agriculture as being developed<br />

in the United States.<br />

Meanwhile, the ranch had acquired considerable<br />

debt, complicated by estate taxes<br />

after the death of Henrietta King. While initial<br />

oil exploration had been done on the ranch in<br />

the 1920s, it was 1933 before a lease was<br />

entered into with Humble Oil and serious<br />

exploration began. The lease money from<br />

Humble and income from oil and gas production<br />

that began in May 1939 helped retire<br />

debt and finance other activities.<br />

In the ensuing years, the ranch has been a<br />

bellwether of America’s ranching industry, a<br />

producer of some of the all-time top running<br />

and performance horses, and a source of<br />

technology that has led to many significant<br />

advances in livestock and wildlife production<br />

and management.<br />

By the year 2000, the King Ranch was<br />

quite different from that cow camp by Santa<br />

Gertrudis Creek. Still a vital part of the area’s<br />

cattle industry, it sprawls across 825,000 acres<br />

of South Texas land, an area larger than Rhode<br />

Island. As the home of 60,000 cattle and 300<br />

quarter horses, it is one of the largest ranches<br />

in the world. Still owned by descendants of<br />

✧<br />

Above: The only Longhorns now seen on the<br />

King Ranch are well-fed, pampered, and<br />

accustomed to being ogled by visitors.<br />

Below: The Santa Gertrudis breed developed<br />

by the King Ranch was the first beef breed<br />

recognized by the USDA as being developed<br />

in the United States. Thousands of Santa<br />

Gertrudis are spread over the King Ranch,<br />

as well as other ranches in the U.S. and<br />

other countries with an environment similar<br />

to South Texas.<br />

COURTESY OF THE SANTA GERTRUDIS BREEDERS<br />

INTERNATIONAL, KINGSVILLE, TEXAS.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

55


Richard and Henrietta King, it is managed<br />

from corporate offices in Houston. Guided<br />

historical and agricultural tours are available<br />

at the King Ranch near Kingsville.<br />

FRANCISCO YTURRIA:<br />

BANKER AND RANCHER<br />

✧<br />

Francisco Yturria in his later years.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

Francisco Yturria, one of Brownsville’s<br />

successful early merchants and its first<br />

banker, also became a rancher. Born of<br />

Spanish parents in Matamoros, Yturria<br />

married Felicitas Treviño, whose father had<br />

been awarded the San Martin land grant by<br />

the Mexican government. He purchased lands<br />

adjoining those of his wife’s inheritance, plus<br />

additional acreage. The large Punta del Monte<br />

Ranch in what is now Willacy County was the<br />

headquarters of an 85,000-acre tract which<br />

produced 2,000 steers per year. Though he<br />

never lived on the ranch, Yturria built a<br />

school and chapel for the families who lived<br />

and worked there, as well as a large house for<br />

the administrator.<br />

Yturria often joined cattle drives with King<br />

and Kenedy. The combined herds sometimes<br />

required three hundred cowboys for the trip up<br />

the Chisholm Trail to Kansas. He brought the<br />

first Angus cattle to the region and contributed<br />

to the building of the St. Louis, Brownsville,<br />

and Mexican Railroad in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

After his death in 1912, the lands were<br />

divided between Daniel Yturria and Isabel<br />

Yturria Garcia, the two adopted children of<br />

“Don Pancho” and Felicitas. In Willacy and<br />

Kenedy Counties, the Garcia heirs received<br />

properties west of the railroad and the Yturria<br />

families received the lands east of the rail line.<br />

Now divided into several properties on each<br />

side, the Yturria descendants continue to<br />

develop and operate the ranches, a lasting<br />

legacy of “Don Pancho.” His great-grandson<br />

and namesake, Francisco “Frank” Yturria, is<br />

also a businessman and rancher. He raises<br />

Santa Gertrudis and Beefmaster cattle, but no<br />

Longhorns. Frank Yturria has set aside one<br />

thousand acres of his ranch to provide habitat<br />

for endangered species. In April 2000, Texas<br />

Parks & Wildlife chose him as “Lone Star<br />

Land Steward of the Year,” an award given to<br />

ranchers who protect wildlife.<br />

ROMA:<br />

A NATIONAL HISTORIC<br />

LANDMARK DISTRICT<br />

Roma’s early history is rooted in the<br />

Spanish colonial period. In 1746 José de<br />

Escandón received permission from the<br />

Spanish Crown to colonize Nuevo Santander,<br />

which extended from the Sierra Madre<br />

Oriental to the Gulf of Mexico and from the<br />

rainforests of Tamaulipas northward beyond<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. By 1752 Escandón had<br />

founded the towns of Camargo, Reynosa,<br />

Revilla, and Mier south of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>,<br />

and Dolores on the north bank, followed by<br />

Laredo in 1755.<br />

Land was granted to families willing to<br />

settle in these frontier outposts. By 1763 the<br />

Saenz and Salinas families had established<br />

Rancho de los Saenz north of the river on<br />

lands belonging to Mier. The effort was shortlived,<br />

but a second ranch, Rancho de Buena<br />

Vista, was soon established nearby. By 1840<br />

the rural settlement evolved into the village of<br />

Garcías, and in the late 1840s, the name was<br />

changed to Roma. The origin of the “Roma”<br />

name is uncertain, but probably derived from<br />

a ranch, San Pedro de Roma, across the river.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

56


A reminder of the Spanish Colonial legacy<br />

remains in the name of Los Saenz, a small<br />

community on the southeastern edge of Roma<br />

in the area of the first ranch.<br />

In the economic boom that followed the<br />

end of the U.S.-Mexican War in 1848,<br />

steamboats gave the river towns and adjacent<br />

areas access to international trade. Shallow<br />

water made passage to Laredo impractical,<br />

and Roma evolved as the head of navigation<br />

on the river, developing a vibrant economy.<br />

Throughout the rest of the nineteenth century,<br />

Roma prospered as goods bound for Mexico<br />

from the Eastern U.S. and Europe passed<br />

through its dock. By the end of the century,<br />

railroads connected Laredo and large areas of<br />

Northern Mexico to direct trade, making<br />

steamboats unnecessary to transport goods to<br />

the remote region.<br />

Roma had the first post office west of<br />

Brownsville and the Oblates of Mary<br />

Immaculate, a French-Catholic order, chose<br />

Roma as the site of one of their first churches in<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Our Lady of Refuge<br />

Church was designed by Father Pierre Keralum,<br />

a French architect-turned-priest, and built<br />

under his supervision between 1854 and 1858.<br />

It was one of several <strong>Valley</strong> churches designed<br />

or influenced by Father Keralum. Though a<br />

new church was constructed at the site in 1966,<br />

the spire and entrances were preserved from the<br />

original Gothic style church.<br />

The layout of Roma reflects the Hispanic<br />

tradition of a plaza, lined with continuous<br />

structures with a church as a focal point. The<br />

plaza is the traditional economic and social<br />

center of Mexican villages, towns and cities.<br />

In general, the structures are fronted by stone<br />

or brick sidewalks and form walled compounds<br />

with large courtyards in the<br />

Hispanic/Moorish tradition. Nearly all of the<br />

“merchant princes” of Roma, whose wealth<br />

was generated from the steamboat trade, lived<br />

on or near the plaza. This great public space<br />

was originally unpaved and without vegetation,<br />

providing a sweeping view of the lands<br />

across the river.<br />

In their variety, the structures of Roma<br />

offer a mixture of architectural styles. Oneroom<br />

native sandstone or caliche block<br />

dwellings recall building traditions familiar to<br />

the original Spanish settlers. Two-story sandstone<br />

homes and businesses of molded brick<br />

exhibit the sophistication of design and construction<br />

techniques brought to the area during<br />

Roma’s mid-to-late nineteenth century<br />

prosperity. Exteriors are painted or plastered<br />

in vibrant colors and roofs are lined with<br />

brick, reflecting the Mexican tradition.<br />

In 1971, the nine-square block area<br />

around the Roma Plaza was designated a<br />

National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark District, the<br />

highest designation for historic properties in<br />

the United States.<br />

The district contains over thirty-five<br />

structures built before 1900. Each is a<br />

monument to the courageous, pioneering spirit<br />

✧<br />

Above: Our Lady of Refuge Catholic Church<br />

presides over the renovated plaza in Roma’s<br />

National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark District. The<br />

church tower is the only remaining portion<br />

of the church built in Roma in 1854 by the<br />

Oblate missionaries.<br />

Below: The Roma Plaza is the heart of the<br />

city’s National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark District.<br />

A Walking Tour Guide pinpoints their<br />

locations and gives historical and<br />

architectural information about 35 buildings<br />

in the nine square block area.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

57


✧<br />

Above: This Old Roma Convent near the<br />

plaza was built in the 1880s to serve as the<br />

only convent between Brownsville and<br />

Laredo. The Sisters of Mercy occupied the<br />

property when it was closed in the late<br />

1930s. It has been renovated and preserved<br />

for use as a parish hall.<br />

Below: The John Vale-Noah Cox House was<br />

built by John Vale, a Swedish immigrant, in<br />

1853. The building was later purchased by<br />

Noah Cox, a lawyer from Ohio, and was<br />

used as his residence and headquarters for<br />

his extensive business and ranching interests<br />

during the steamboat era.<br />

of its early settlers and the decades of subsequent<br />

prosperity as an important commercial center for<br />

this area of the Texas/Mexico borderlands.<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>-minded Roma citizens have<br />

organized The Conservation Fund to preserve<br />

and share the historical reminders of over two<br />

centuries of Texas/Mexico borderlands heritage.<br />

They have developed a walking guide for Roma’s<br />

National <strong>Historic</strong>al Landmark District. It gives<br />

the location, a brief history and description of<br />

thirty-five historic buildings, some of which are<br />

described and pictured herein.<br />

Many of these buildings bear the<br />

distinctive mark of German-born Heinrich<br />

“Enrique” Portscheller, who arrived in Mexico<br />

about 1865 and settled in Roma in 1883,<br />

where he established a brickyard and began<br />

designing and building residential and<br />

commercial structures. Known for his<br />

intricate molded brick detailing and the use of<br />

iron grillwork, Portscheller emerged as one of<br />

the foremost builders in the borderlands. He<br />

left Roma in 1894, spending the remainder of<br />

his life in Laredo. Other examples of his work<br />

can be seen in Monterrey, Laredo, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City, and Mier. One of the streets by the plaza<br />

is appropriately named “Portscheller Street.”<br />

The elegant Parish Hall built in the 1880s<br />

originally housed the convent of the Sisters of<br />

the Incarnate Word (1880s-1913) and the<br />

Sisters of Mercy (1913-1940). A low wall<br />

once surrounded the convent and parking<br />

area. This building was the first of many<br />

designed by Portscheller, whose architecture<br />

dominates historic Roma.<br />

The Roma Restoration Project in the<br />

National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark District currently<br />

includes nine structures that reflect a crosssection<br />

of the historic fabric of the community.<br />

The project is intended to become a model<br />

for other preservation projects along Los<br />

Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> (Roads of the River) Heritage<br />

Corridor. This binational program for visitors<br />

and residents is designed to bolster economic<br />

activity through promotion and preservation<br />

of the history and culture shared by Mexico<br />

and the U.S. along the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

The two-story John Vale-Noah Cox House<br />

was built in 1853 by Swedish immigrant John<br />

Vale. Originally it had a flat roof, with the<br />

hipped roof added in the 1880s. Noah Cox<br />

purchased the property in 1856 and operated<br />

a mercantile establishment on the first floor,<br />

while living upstairs. The front elevation has<br />

finely carved sandstone classical details in the<br />

cornice. Portions of the stone walls that<br />

enclosed the property may still be seen.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

58


One of the distinctive buildings by the plaza<br />

that has been restored was built for Manuel<br />

Guerra. Born in Mier, Guerra was educated in<br />

Monterrey and Corpus Christi and returned<br />

briefly to Mier in 1876 to engage in a<br />

mercantile business. Mier was a thriving town<br />

at that time, but Guerra decided to move across<br />

the river to Roma to establish his business.<br />

People came from miles around to trade with<br />

Guerra for goods he personally secured in<br />

Corpus Christi. In 1884 Guerra contracted<br />

with Portscheller to build him a new store. The<br />

store was on the first floor and the Guerra<br />

residence was on the second floor. It was<br />

vacant for many years before its was restored as<br />

part of the Roma Restoration Project.<br />

The Lino Ramirez Residence and Store was<br />

also designed and built by Portscheller in the<br />

1880s. A continuous wrought-iron balcony<br />

once surrounded the second story. The faded<br />

signs for “Cantina” and “Beer” were painted<br />

on the building for the 1953 movie, Viva<br />

Zapata, which was filmed on the Roma Plaza.<br />

Many other buildings around the plaza are<br />

of great interest for their architecture and<br />

history. These include the first mission church<br />

built in Roma about 1829 by priests from Mier,<br />

later used as a dwelling, a library and a<br />

museum; attorney Edward Hord’s 1853 twostory<br />

sandstone office, later the Ramirez<br />

Hospital, and the striking Pablo Ramirez House<br />

that is now the Knights of Columbus Hall.<br />

Along the river at the base of the bluff, the<br />

busy Roma wharf received goods shipped<br />

upriver from Brownsville and Matamoros on<br />

steamboats and barges. The arriving goods<br />

originated as far away as New Orleans, the<br />

Eastern U.S. seaboard, and Europe. The docks<br />

were at the foot of Juarez Street, which was<br />

lined with warehouses and stores.<br />

Another legacy is the Roma-Ciudad Miguel<br />

Alemán suspension bridge across the river to<br />

Miguel Alemán, built in 1928 and the last<br />

remaining of five such bridges that spanned the<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Manuel Guerra Store was built<br />

in 1884 by architect-builder Heinrich<br />

Portscheller. The lower floor was used for<br />

Guerra’s mercantile business and the second<br />

story was the family’s residence. It stood<br />

empty for many years before its exterior<br />

was renovated as part of the Roma<br />

Restoration Project.<br />

Below: The Lino Ramírez Building, an<br />

example of the highly developed brick<br />

architecture attributed to Heinrich<br />

Portscheller, was built in the 1880s. It was<br />

used as “Rosita’s Cantina” when the movie<br />

Viva Zapata was filmed in Roma in the<br />

1950s with Marlon Brando.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

59


✧<br />

Right: The Roma-Ciudad Miguel Alemán<br />

suspension bridge, which stretches seven<br />

hundred feet across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, was<br />

built in 1928 and is the last remaining of<br />

five such bridges that spanned the river in<br />

the region. It is now a pedestrian only<br />

crossing, standing alongside a newer span<br />

now used for vehicles.<br />

Below: The two hundred-mile stretch of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> from Laredo to Brownsville is<br />

named Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> (The Roads of<br />

the River). The heritage corridor is rich in<br />

natural and cultural legacies along the<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> of Texas and Mexico. It<br />

encompasses more than 230 historic sites<br />

along its stretch of the Texas/Mexico border,<br />

many of them in Roma, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City,<br />

and Brownsville.<br />

COURTESY OF THE LOS CAMINOS DEL RIO PROJECT AND<br />

THE TEXAS HISTORICAL COMMISSION.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in this region. It is to be restored<br />

and used as a pedestrian crossing, while the<br />

modern highway bridge that spans the river<br />

nearby is now used for vehicular traffic.<br />

Roma walking tour organizers also invite visitors<br />

to explore the charming plazas, cobblestone<br />

streets and beautiful churches across the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in Roma’s parent city, Mier. Located<br />

on Mexico’s Highway 2, six miles upriver, Mier<br />

is one of the best preserved historic towns along<br />

the entire U.S.-Mexico border. Roma and the<br />

nearby Mexican border towns share a distinct<br />

heritage expressed through stunning architecture,<br />

rich cultural traditions, and family ties that<br />

extend two and one-half centuries into the past.<br />

Today, Roma is still an important port of<br />

entry for trade and tourism. Its bridge takes<br />

eighteen-wheelers filled with merchandise, as<br />

well as sightseeing travelers through Miguel<br />

Alemán to Monterrey over excellent highways in<br />

about two hours. Along with appreciation of its<br />

past, citizens look to the future with targeted<br />

business development, improved infrastructure,<br />

and an invitation to visitors to enjoy dining,<br />

shopping, and the international atmosphere that<br />

is uniquely Roma, Texas.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE CITY<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City brings a storied past filled<br />

with tales of adventure. It was first known as<br />

Carnestolendas Ranch when established in<br />

1753 on a Spanish land grant awarded to<br />

Captain José de la Garza Falcón. A<br />

descendant, Francisco de la Garza Martínez,<br />

was owner in the 1830s when a young man,<br />

Henry Clay Davis of Kentucky, came to the<br />

area as a volunteer with Texan forces in 1842.<br />

In Camargo he met Maria Hilaria de la Garza,<br />

Francisco’s granddaughter, and courted her<br />

“in proper Spanish form.” They married in<br />

1846, with the understanding that Henry<br />

Clay would settle down across the river on<br />

what was then known as the Garza Ranch.<br />

First called Davis Landing, it became a<br />

major trade center along the winding river<br />

route. The distance by steamboat from<br />

Brownsville to Davis Landing was 350 miles;<br />

overland it was only 125 miles, but at that time<br />

the steamboats provided the best means of<br />

moving merchandise and people to and from<br />

the area. In 1848, soon after Starr County was<br />

created, Davis and Captain Forbes Britton laid<br />

out the town to begin the selling of lots, named<br />

it “<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>,” which became “<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City” in 1926. Soon it became the county seat.<br />

The town did not boom as expected and<br />

Captain Britton moved on, but the plaza in the<br />

center of the town bears his name.<br />

Also in 1848, Fort Ringgold, first known as<br />

Ringgold Barracks, was established as an army<br />

post following the Treaty of Guadalupe<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

60


Hidalgo for protection of U.S. citizens from<br />

Indian forays and border bandits. Named<br />

after Major Samuel Ringgold, Fourth Artillery,<br />

who was killed early in the U.S.-Mexican War<br />

at Palo Alto, it was one of the chain of forts of<br />

the system of defense adopted on the western<br />

frontier. Robert E. Lee spent a month at the<br />

fort on court-martial duties in 1856,<br />

remembered by the Lee House in the fort<br />

complex. The fort was rebuilt after the Civil<br />

War and figured greatly in the history of the<br />

area for a hundred years. It was deactivated in<br />

1944 and is now part of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City<br />

Independent School District, which has<br />

renovated several of the buildings for use by<br />

the school system.<br />

Between the Mexican and Civil Wars, <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City was the base from which several<br />

revolutionary activities were launched in<br />

Mexico as the people of Northeastern Mexico<br />

did not hold their Central Government in<br />

high esteem. Along the border were gathered<br />

many adventurers lately discharged from the<br />

army that had invaded Mexico and others that<br />

had simply “gone to Texas.” All had a<br />

profound lack of interest in wrestling a plow<br />

or any sweat-producing effort. They were a<br />

picturesque, irresponsible crew ready for a<br />

filibustering expedition, cattle rustling, or a<br />

bit of smuggling.<br />

In March of 1861, with the beginning of<br />

the Civil War, Federal troops withdrew from<br />

Fort Ringgold and it remained in Confederate<br />

hands until near the end of the war. When<br />

hostilities ended, the U.S. government moved<br />

large forces to the border to discourage the<br />

army of Emperor Maximilian in Mexico and<br />

offer aid to the Juarista government. A small<br />

but very decisive battle was fought across the<br />

border near Camargo at a point called Santa<br />

Gertrudis, about ten miles southeast of <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City on June 16, 1866. Quite a<br />

number of Americans fought on both sides,<br />

the ex-Confederates favoring Maximilian,<br />

whose troops were soundly defeated. The<br />

battle marked the beginning of the end of his<br />

short reign. A small obelisk on top of one of<br />

the highest hills around Camargo marks the<br />

site of the battle.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City has many interesting<br />

buildings dating from the mid to late 1800s.<br />

Some have been restored and are in use today;<br />

others bear the ravages of time. The most<br />

striking restoration project is the La Borde<br />

House on Main Street. The unusual hotel<br />

owes its origin to an event remote from the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>—the Franco-Prussian War of 1870.<br />

Francois Laborde (the original family<br />

spelling) was one of several Frenchmen who<br />

came to this country following the fall of<br />

Alsace and Lorraine to the Prussians. They<br />

fled their homelands to avoid serving in the<br />

army of the victors.<br />

By the time Laborde arrived in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City, other French families had already<br />

settled, including Ernest Marks and his<br />

daughter Eva. Francois and Eva married and<br />

he established a bustling trade importing<br />

kidskins and other goods from Mexico.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Fort Ringgold was established in 1848,<br />

rebuilt after the Civil War, and deactivated<br />

in 1944. It is now utilized by the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City Independent School District,<br />

which has modernized many of its buildings.<br />

This entrance is now used by <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City’s schoolchildren.<br />

Above: The Robert E. Lee House is where<br />

Lee stayed when troubleshooting in the<br />

border area prior to the Civil War. In<br />

poor condition, it still stands in the Fort<br />

Ringgold area.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

61


✧<br />

Above: From its beginning and into the<br />

1900s until the railroad came, ox carts were<br />

an important mode of transportation in <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City, as well as all parts of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The Silverio de la Peña building,<br />

built in 1886, is typical of the late 1800s<br />

architecture found in the area. Owners<br />

included druggist Silverio de la Peña and<br />

Juan H. Hinojosa, who served as county<br />

tax assessor, U.S. customs officer, and<br />

bank director. It once served as the city’s<br />

post office.<br />

During their frequent trips into Mexico, they<br />

admired the brilliantly colored bougainvillea<br />

bush and brought some back to plant around<br />

their home. Friends took cuttings, and soon<br />

the colorful shrubs were growing up and<br />

down the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

A French architect was hired to design a<br />

home for the Labordes, which was completed<br />

in 1899. The architecture is said to be “a mixture<br />

of French, Spanish, and Victorian<br />

Gingerbread.” Later they added a second story<br />

and converted it into a hotel. In 1978, the<br />

aging landmark was purchased by Larry<br />

Sheerin of San Antonio, who farmed extensively<br />

in Starr County. In a magnificent<br />

restoration, he had the hotel completely renovated<br />

and brought up to date, but retained the<br />

original balconies, trim and color. Listed in<br />

the National Register of <strong>Historic</strong> Places, the La<br />

Borde House now provides distinctive hotel<br />

accommodations plus offices for the Starr<br />

County Industrial Foundation, the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City Chamber of Commerce, and<br />

other community organizations.<br />

The Immaculate Conception School and<br />

Church have served the citizens of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City for well over a century. A replica of the<br />

Grotto of Lourdes in France was built on the<br />

church grounds in the 1920s by Father Gustavo<br />

Goldback, using rocks and petrified wood found<br />

in the county. Dedicated in 1928, two of its statues<br />

came from the Loomis Studio in Paris.<br />

When banker Emory Owen Scott brought<br />

his young wife Florence to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City in<br />

1919, she protested that, “I don’t like this<br />

little old town,” but he assured her it was only<br />

for a year. She lived there for over sixty years,<br />

becoming a school superintendent for thirty<br />

years. She brought in teachers for the growing<br />

schools and encouraged them to continue<br />

their education, as she did herself.<br />

She also became a writer. Her first and<br />

best-known book, <strong>Historic</strong>al Heritage of the<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, first published in 1937, was<br />

based on her University of Texas master’s thesis<br />

on the Spanish colonization of the area.<br />

This book became required reading in the<br />

area of mineral and water rights at many law<br />

schools. In her later years, scholars came from<br />

near and far to get historical information,<br />

often at her home on Sunday afternoons, and<br />

she was widely sought as a speaker for both<br />

men’s and women’s organizations.<br />

Florence Johnson Scott’s legacy, in addition<br />

to the many lives she touched, includes her<br />

books about the heritage of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and Northern Mexico. Her <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Heritage of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was expanded<br />

and reprinted in 1966. Old Rough and Ready<br />

(1935 and 1969) is a story of General Zachary<br />

Taylor, and Royal Land Grants North of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>: 1777-1821 was published in 1969.<br />

From the Civil War until the railroad finally<br />

came in 1925 and oil was discovered in 1929,<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City remained a quiet ranching<br />

town with an occasional political feud. In the<br />

decades since, its isolation has ended and its<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

62


economy has diversified. Irrigated farms add<br />

vegetables and melons to the agricultural<br />

economy, and industrial activity is increasing.<br />

Descendants of some of the early Spanish<br />

settlers have lived on their land in Starr<br />

County for many generations, and their<br />

names can be found in business, education,<br />

the professions, and political offices throughout<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> and beyond.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City’s future, as its past, is<br />

consigned to the river and the promise of<br />

commerce that it holds, linking families,<br />

friendships and economics with a special kind<br />

of friendly hospitality and cultural continuity.<br />

THE BORDER CITY OF HIDALGO<br />

The earliest settlement in what is now<br />

Hidalgo County, and the only town in the<br />

county until the railroad roared into the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

in 1904, dates back to the early Spanish<br />

settlers. A mission was established by the José<br />

de Escandón colonists in 1749 on the site<br />

where Hidalgo now stands. It soon grew into a<br />

town called La Habitación, with a ferry<br />

operating across the river. After Hidalgo<br />

County was established in 1852, the town was<br />

designated the county seat and given the name<br />

of Edinburgh (with an “h”) by John Young, a<br />

Scotsman who operated a trading post in the<br />

county with E. D. Smith and John McAllen.<br />

The name was changed to Hidalgo in 1876.<br />

The flooding waters of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> swept<br />

away the town more than once. Each time the<br />

residents returned and rebuilt it. To replace two<br />

smaller, earlier structures, a new courthouse and<br />

jail built of brick were completed in December<br />

1886 at a cost of $20,000. In 1893, Lieutenant<br />

W. H. Chatfield, after completing a tour of duty<br />

at Fort Brown, wrote in his Twin Cities of the<br />

Border and the Country of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>:<br />

and everything about it is complete and tasty.<br />

(The second floor and cupola were later<br />

destroyed by fire and were not replaced.)<br />

Census figures of 1890 showed Hidalgo<br />

with 389 people. In addition to the fanfare of<br />

county business from small settlements and<br />

ranches, Hidalgo had two churches, at least<br />

one general store, and more than one private<br />

school. There was a U.S. Customs Service<br />

station on this side of the Reynosa ferry,<br />

which served the neighboring villages. Also,<br />

the U.S. Army kept a small staff of soldiers to<br />

help maintain a telegraph line that connected<br />

Fort Brown and Fort Ringgold. The county’s<br />

first telephone system was installed in<br />

✧<br />

Above: The La Borde House was completed<br />

in 1899 as a home for the Laborde family<br />

and later was enlarged and converted into a<br />

hotel. Carefully restored in 1978, it serves<br />

as a hotel and provides offices for several<br />

community organizations.<br />

Below: The Grotto of Lourdes by the<br />

Immaculate Conception Church that faces<br />

the plaza is a replica of the Grotto of<br />

Lourdes in France. It was built in the 1920s<br />

using rocks and petrified wood found in<br />

the county.<br />

The county courthouse is a handsome<br />

brick building. A neat iron fence extends<br />

around the grounds, which embrace two<br />

acres, seeded with grass, trees and shrubs. The<br />

interior of the courthouse is handsomely finished<br />

in hardwoods; the spacious rooms and<br />

very high ceilings are thoroughly lighted and<br />

ventilated by large windows and doors. A<br />

symmetrical cupola surmounts the building<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

63


✧<br />

Above: Transportation between Reynosa and<br />

Hidalgo was by canoe, boat or ferry until<br />

the first bridge was built in 1926. In this<br />

photo a launcha or rowboat brings visitors<br />

to Hidalgo from Reynosa.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CITY OF HIDALGO.<br />

Below: People wait their turn to do business<br />

at the Customs House in Hidalgo about<br />

1915. Note the activity on river bank<br />

on the left.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CITY OF HIDALGO.<br />

Hidalgo, connecting the county seat with<br />

neighboring ranches and plantations. Hidalgo<br />

County census totals showed 4,437 in 1880<br />

and 6,534 in 1890.<br />

Many events of historic significance<br />

happened in the fifty-six years that Hidalgo<br />

was the government center: lawlessness,<br />

Indian raids and at least one hanging in the<br />

jail. One year the office of sheriff was held by<br />

seven different men. However, times were<br />

more peaceful and the area had a more<br />

progressive outlook by 1908.<br />

Concerned that continued flooding would<br />

destroy county records and needing a more<br />

central location for the county seat, a special<br />

election was held on October 10, 1908, to<br />

decide whether to move the county seat to the<br />

new town of Chapin. Despite the fact that<br />

there were no buildings in Chapin, only tents<br />

with wooden sides, it was chosen as the new<br />

county seat.<br />

Many county residents were upset by the<br />

election and talk soon grew violent. By dawn<br />

the next day, the county records had been<br />

hurriedly packed up and loaded into a wagon<br />

train. Armed guards escorted the train, which<br />

also carried bricks to build a vault. Chapin<br />

soon changed its name to Edinburg “(without<br />

the “h”), which grew very fast and continues<br />

to serve as the seat of county government.<br />

The old brick jail and courthouse fell into<br />

disrepair. In 1963, when the first historical<br />

medallion placed by the Hidalgo County<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Commission was put on the old<br />

courthouse, it was being used to store hay. The<br />

adjacent Border Bank, now the Texas State Bank,<br />

acquired the buildings and launched restoration<br />

plans. The buildings were beautifully restored<br />

and official Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Markers dedicated<br />

in 1983. The hardwoods mentioned by<br />

Chatfield are there again, and the handmade<br />

bricks that were dirty and/or broken were<br />

scraped and cleaned or replaced by others made<br />

in the same factory as the originals in Reynosa.<br />

The bank utilizes some of the space and the<br />

restored courthouse serves as headquarters for<br />

the Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission and<br />

the Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Society.<br />

Of special historical interest is the Hidalgo<br />

Pumphouse Heritage and Discovery Park. This<br />

first-class museum in the restored pumphouse,<br />

the only one remaining of some thirty such<br />

installations, shows how the <strong>Valley</strong> was turned<br />

from brushland to lush farmland by irrigation.<br />

The Louisiana-<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Canal Company<br />

installed the first steam-powered pump in<br />

1909, and by 1912 four steam pumps were in<br />

operation distributing water to the McAllen,<br />

Pharr, San Juan, and Alamo areas through a<br />

well-designed canal system providing water<br />

both for irrigation and domestic use.<br />

The first steam boilers were fired with<br />

mesquite wood from newly cleared land,<br />

requiring up to two hundred laborers to<br />

provide wood and operate the system. By<br />

the early 1920s, crude oil, and later,<br />

natural gas, became the fuel. Originally<br />

constructed to irrigate forty thousand acres,<br />

the system is now operated by Hidalgo<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

64


County Irrigation District No. 2 to supply<br />

water to seventy-two thousand acres. The<br />

plant was abandoned in 1983 in favor of an<br />

all electric unit a mile downstream and was<br />

partially dismantled. Then, heeding the pleas<br />

of preservationists, it was donated to the City<br />

of Hidalgo for renovation as a museum and<br />

agricultural heritage park.<br />

Now visitors can stroll along catwalks to<br />

the recorded roar of the old steam engines and<br />

gaze thirty-five feet down at monstrous<br />

engines that could draw 350,000 gallons of<br />

water per minute from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> at full<br />

capacity. Its Robert E. Norton Visitor Center<br />

has a model steam engine among its many<br />

interactive exhibits.<br />

The center’s grand opening on April 18, 1999<br />

culminated seventeen years of work by<br />

volunteers and the cooperation of many<br />

organizations. Bob Norton, president of the<br />

Heritage Foundation of Hidalgo County, said,<br />

“The thirty or so pumphouses built along the<br />

river in the early 1900s were instrumental in<br />

changing the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> from arid<br />

brushland where cattle grazed to a lush<br />

agricultural hub. The early enterprises with fruit<br />

and vegetables and the shipping industry laid the<br />

foundation for the <strong>Valley</strong> as we know it today.”<br />

As an important gateway to Mexico<br />

through the busy McAllen-Hidalgo-Reynosa<br />

International Bridge, customs houses and<br />

cambios (currency exchanges) are major<br />

businesses in Hidalgo today. Several produce<br />

companies have packing sheds there, and some<br />

large Reynosa maquiladoras (manufacturers)<br />

have their U.S. headquarters in the growing<br />

city of Hidalgo.<br />

THE STORIED CITY BY<br />

THE SEA: PORT ISABEL<br />

The attractions of sun and sea drew early<br />

Spanish colonists to what is now Port Isabel in<br />

the late 1700s for recreation and travel to the<br />

outside world. In 1828 a ranch settlement was<br />

formed on the narrow peninsula extending<br />

into the Laguna Madre on a Mexican land<br />

grant awarded to Don Rafael García. The thirty<br />

thousand acres of land was called El Frontón<br />

de Santa Isabel (bluff of Saint Isabel) and<br />

included the present site of Port Isabel.<br />

Legend has it that many French, English<br />

and Portugese pirates used the serene harbor<br />

and its inlets as a safe refuge to hold their<br />

rendezvous and divide their spoils from their<br />

forays on Spanish shipping. Though they left<br />

no written records, a rich fund of legendary<br />

lore has been handed down, embellished by<br />

each narrator.<br />

After they were forced out of New Orleans<br />

in 1817 and then booted out of Galveston in<br />

1821, the swashbuckling pirate Jean Lafitte<br />

and his brother Pierre used the port as a base<br />

to raid Spanish commerce sailing out of<br />

Veracruz. Port Isabel was ideal for their<br />

purpose. The Laguna Madre made a perfect<br />

refuge for the shallow-draft pirate vessels<br />

while fleeing the larger men-of-war, for they<br />

could slip through the Brazos Santiago Pass<br />

✧<br />

Top: The old two-story Hidalgo County Jail<br />

was carefully restored by Border Bank, now<br />

Texas State Bank, in 1983 and is used by<br />

the bank for special purposes.<br />

Above: The 1886 Hidalgo County<br />

Courthouse, which lost its second story in a<br />

storm and was never replaced, was also<br />

restored by the bank in 1983. It now<br />

serves as headquarters for the Hidalgo<br />

County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission.<br />

COURTESY OF CHUCK SNYDER.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

65


✧<br />

Above: The Hidalgo Pumphouse Heritage<br />

and Discovery Park owned and operated by<br />

the City of Hidalgo is a first-class museum,<br />

complete with the recorded roar of old<br />

steam engines. The restored pumphouse is<br />

the only one remaining of around thirty<br />

such installations built in the <strong>Valley</strong> by<br />

the 1920s.<br />

COURTESY OF CHUCK SNYDER.<br />

Below: The new Hidalgo City Hall<br />

provides additional space for this growing<br />

border city, just a bridge away from big,<br />

bustling Reynosa.<br />

and drop anchor off what is now Laguna<br />

Vista. There they dug a well and found fresh<br />

water, still known as “Lafitte’s Well.”<br />

Under Spanish rule, citizens were<br />

permitted to trade only with Spain through<br />

the Port of Veracruz, but under Mexican rule<br />

Matamoros commerce began to utilize the<br />

excellent harbor of the Port of Matamoros in<br />

1824. A Mexican Customs Station was located<br />

there in 1844, a year before General Zachary<br />

Taylor and his men marched down from<br />

Corpus Christi. There were some substantial<br />

buildings, which the Mexicans attempted to<br />

burn before deserting the town, but the<br />

troops arrived in time to save most of them.<br />

Taylor established Fort Polk, named in<br />

honor of the U.S. president, as his supply port<br />

to receive soldiers and supplies. Since the<br />

civilians were not allowed to remain close to<br />

the port, they established their village around<br />

the fort and adopted the name of Point Isabel.<br />

The little seaport town played an important<br />

role in the history of the Southwest since it<br />

was the key to the army’s whole campaign<br />

during the Mexican War as the port of entry<br />

for replacements of men and material.<br />

Among those who settled in the new<br />

village after the war were five brothers of the<br />

Champion family, who came from the<br />

seacoast village of Rovigno in the Italian<br />

province of Istria. They were in New Orleans<br />

in 1846 when that city became the<br />

embarkation point for a tremendous<br />

movement of troops and war materials being<br />

shipped across the Gulf to Fort Polk.<br />

Experienced through their years at sea, the<br />

brothers aided in operating a great fleet of<br />

chartered transports. After the war, the<br />

Champions purchased lots, married, and<br />

entered various businesses in the area. There<br />

are many Champions in the <strong>Valley</strong> who can<br />

trace their roots to these seamen from Italy.<br />

Commerce through the port continued<br />

after the U.S.-Mexican War ended in 1848.<br />

Because of the heavy shipping traffic through<br />

Brazos Santiago Pass, a navigational light was<br />

needed, and a lighthouse was authorized by<br />

Congress during the Taylor presidency. The<br />

brick tower, begun in 1851 and completed<br />

two years later, was topped by a stationary<br />

white light that could be seen for almost<br />

sixteen miles. In 1859 an estimated $10<br />

million in export and import goods passed<br />

through Point Isabel, and customs records<br />

show that from fifty to a hundred vessels were<br />

anchored at a time in Brazos Pass off the<br />

sandbar that often impeded shipping, or tied<br />

up at Point Isabel on the mainland.<br />

The Civil War period was a difficult one for<br />

the area, with a federal garrison on Brazos<br />

Island to try to enforce the blockade on the<br />

South’s cotton and the Confederates in control<br />

on the mainland until 1863, when the area<br />

fell to Union troops. Confederate Colonel<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

66


“Rip” Ford hid the lamp lenses from the<br />

lighthouse for the rest of the war so it could<br />

not guide Union ships into the harbor.<br />

Though the Confederates regained control of<br />

the mainland in 1864, the blockade of the<br />

port and occupation of Brazos Island<br />

continued until peace finally came in 1865.<br />

In 1866, the lighthouse was repaired and<br />

relit, and its beacon guided large numbers of<br />

commercial vessels to the port. Until 1904 the<br />

Port of Brazos de Santiago was the only avenue<br />

of commerce to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> country except<br />

the stage line from Brownsville to Alice. The<br />

Morgan Line steamships made regular runs<br />

down from New Orleans and Galveston. They<br />

delivered their goods to lighters, open barges<br />

that could move through the shallow waters,<br />

for transport across the sandbar and the bay to<br />

Port Isabel. For a time goods moved upriver<br />

on steamboats to Brownsville, and then freight<br />

teams of oxen and mules delivered the goods<br />

to interior Texas and Mexico. Then Simon<br />

Celaya, Joseph Kleiber, and other investors<br />

from Brownsville built the narrow-gauge <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Railroad from Port Isabel to<br />

Brownsville in 1872 in response to public<br />

demand. It did a thriving business, chugging<br />

back and forth every day.<br />

In 1975, Ramona Valente Barrientos, then<br />

ninety-two, reminisced about her youth in Point<br />

Isabel with Teresa Chapa Alamia of Edinburg, in<br />

“Queen of the Waterfront” in <strong>Valley</strong> Byliners’<br />

Roots by the River. Ramona’s father, Antonio<br />

Valente, came from Palermo, Italy in 1884,<br />

married Ramona Dominguez of Corpus Christi,<br />

and Ramona was the oldest of their six children.<br />

Everything had to be brought from<br />

Brownsville on the famous little train that<br />

everyone knows about. So, the most<br />

important events of every day were the arrival<br />

of the train at 10 a.m. and its departure at 3<br />

p.m. Everybody would gather around to wait<br />

for fresh bread, the mail, workers, visitors,<br />

supplies, everything. The supplies that came<br />

for the Champion Store, the one and only<br />

store, were certainly the most important.<br />

In 1899 Charles Champion built the<br />

Champion Building and operated a large<br />

mercantile store that he named “The Key to<br />

the Gulf.” It faced the terminus of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Railroad and was adjacent to the<br />

depot. “It had every kind of merchandise<br />

from baby nipples to stoves, food, kerosene<br />

lamps, yard goods and lace,” recalled<br />

Ramona. “The long, long counter extended<br />

the length of the store, and I remember<br />

walking up and down until somebody waited<br />

on me. Don Carlos Champion, whose family<br />

also came from Italy, was the tall, handsome<br />

owner of the two-story structure.”<br />

Champion commissioned a mural showing<br />

area marine life on the storefront. Artist, José<br />

Moreles García, who had lost his left arm<br />

entirely and had only four fingers on his right<br />

hand, painted the mural directly onto the<br />

brick. The renovated Champion Building,<br />

complete with the restored mural, is now the<br />

excellent Port Isabel <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum with<br />

outstanding exhibits of the history of Port<br />

Isabel and the entire <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. In May<br />

2000 the Treasures of the Gulf Museum<br />

opened in an adjacent building to form the<br />

Museums of Port Isabel.<br />

During the 1890s and early years of the<br />

twentieth century, the Brownsville-to-Point<br />

Isabel train continued to run, but with<br />

decreasing success. It transported less and less<br />

cargo, although it was a very popular<br />

excursion train for vacationers and summer<br />

visitors from Brownsville. In 1904, however,<br />

Brownsville was linked by rail to Corpus<br />

Christi, and Point Isabel was almost<br />

completely bypassed by the maritime trade.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Legends abound about early<br />

day pirates who slipped through the<br />

Brazos Santiago Pass and preyed on<br />

Spanish shipping.<br />

Below: The Port Isabel Lighthouse guided<br />

ships to the coast for many years after it<br />

was built in 1852. It was abandoned in<br />

1903, then restored and opened as a state<br />

park in 1952 and closed again in 1997.<br />

After a $1-million restoration by Parks and<br />

Wildlife and the Texas Department of<br />

Transportation, it reopened with a grand<br />

celebration in October 2000. Its light again<br />

glows at night and the popular landmark<br />

now serves as a beacon for visitors.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

67


✧<br />

Above: Charles Champion, whose sailing<br />

ancestors came from Italy during the U.S.-<br />

Mexican War, established The Key to the<br />

Gulf General Store in 1894. Together with<br />

his friend, Judge James B. Wells of<br />

Brownsville, Champion purchased the<br />

townsite of Port Isabel and refused to zone<br />

or to collect rent from poor fishermen.<br />

Champion lived with his wife and six<br />

children above the Champion Store, long the<br />

focal point of the community.<br />

COURTESY OF THE PORT ISABEL HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Modern development began in 1926 when<br />

the Port Isabel Townsite Company acquired<br />

the townsite, leveled the bluff, and made<br />

elaborate plans for “Building a city where a<br />

city belongs,” but the depression came along<br />

and disrupted their plans. The name was<br />

changed officially from Point Isabel to Port<br />

Isabel on March 13, 1928. Then came paved<br />

streets, modern utilities, a yacht basin, and a<br />

deepwater port.<br />

The lighthouse, which was abandoned in<br />

1903 after shipping traffic declined, was<br />

renovated and opened as a state park in 1952.<br />

Completely restored to its 1880s appearance<br />

in 2000, it is now a beacon for visitors.<br />

Traditionally, Port Isabel has held to its<br />

seafaring heritage. Shrimping continues to be<br />

an important industry, with the catch of its<br />

shrimp fleet sold fresh and through its freezer<br />

plants. It also has a reputation for excellent<br />

sports fishing. Dr. J. A. Hockaday initiated the<br />

Texas International Fishing Tournament in<br />

1934 to draw attention to the area’s great<br />

fishing, and the annual mid-summer T.I.F.T.<br />

continues to draw fishing enthusiasts from<br />

across the nation to Port Isabel and South<br />

Padre Island.<br />

A factor that has contributed much to the<br />

importance of both Port Isabel and Port<br />

Brownsville is their connection with the<br />

Intracoastal Waterway, the inland water route<br />

that gave the coast of Texas direct water<br />

transportation to Chicago and the Great Lakes<br />

region. It also connects with the Mississippi River<br />

and all of its tributaries and continues through to<br />

the Atlantic Seaboard to form over thirty<br />

thousand miles of navigable inland waterways.<br />

Only private boats and ferry service<br />

provided access to Padre Island until 1952,<br />

when the first causeway was built by Cameron<br />

County and development of the island as a<br />

vacation destination began. The first<br />

causeway was replaced in 1974 with the new<br />

Queen Isabella Causeway. The longest bridge<br />

in Texas, it soars 88 feet into the sky and<br />

spans 12,510 feet across the blue Laguna<br />

Madre and the Intracoastal Waterway to<br />

Right: The little <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad<br />

chugged back and forth between Port Isabel<br />

and Brownsville for three decades until the<br />

St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico Railroad<br />

arrived at Brownsville on July 4, 1904.<br />

COURTESY OF MARION MOYER.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

68


connect Port Isabel to the world-class resort<br />

of South Padre Island.<br />

Port Isabel’s excellent port facilities,<br />

extensive shrimping fleet, splendid recreational<br />

fishing, outstanding schools, and its citizens’<br />

pride in its historical sites highlight the “Storied<br />

City by the Sea” of today.<br />

EARLY FOOTSTEPS ON<br />

PADRE’ S SANDS<br />

Many people left their footprints on the<br />

sands of South Padre Island for a brief time<br />

before the shifting dunes and onrushing tides<br />

erased them. Its first known inhabitants were<br />

the fierce Karankawa Indians, who roamed<br />

the dunes and beaches of Padre and fished<br />

along its shores long before Columbus discovered<br />

the New World. The tragic shipwreck of<br />

twenty Spanish galleons in 1553 is described<br />

earlier in this book in “The Great Shipwreck<br />

off Padre Island.”<br />

It was about 1829 that the island was<br />

granted to Padre Nicolás Ballí by Mexico.<br />

With his nephew, he established a ranch<br />

known as Santa Cruz about twenty-six miles<br />

north of the mile-long granite jetties that now<br />

border historic Brazos Santiago Pass. Their<br />

cattle thrived on the sea oats and varied plant<br />

life of the rugged dunes for a time before the<br />

ranch was abandoned, and it was from Padre<br />

Ballí that the island got its name.<br />

Another shipwreck brought a couple of<br />

wealth and influence from the East to become<br />

one of Padre’s most famous families. John<br />

Singer and his wife Johanna were headed for<br />

Port Isabel to establish a shipping business<br />

when a storm wrecked their schooner on a<br />

stretch of the island near the old Padre Ballí<br />

ranch. After living for two weeks in a tent they<br />

made from one of the schooner sails, they<br />

decided to stay on the island. They built their<br />

first home from driftwood, acquired cattle,<br />

and engaged in various enterprises. The<br />

Singers worked hard, as did their children<br />

when they were old enough.<br />

The Singers’ island empire ended with the<br />

Civil War and the approach of Union troops.<br />

The family departed hurriedly at night, planning<br />

to return after hostilities ceased to<br />

retrieve their fortune. They left their cattle<br />

behind, providing an easy answer to the food<br />

supply problem for the Union forces. For over<br />

a year after the war, they looked for the treasure<br />

they had buried but could never find it.<br />

Johanna died in 1866, and John Singer left<br />

Padre, never to return. Many treasure hunters<br />

have searched for the Singer fortune since,<br />

but it has never been found.<br />

Other adventurers trod the sands after the<br />

Civil War. Among them was Pat Dunn of the<br />

Corpus Christi area, who emerged in 1879 to<br />

claim it for his own and to run cattle on its<br />

dunes until 1926. Among the first to envision<br />

Padre as a playground was San Benito founder<br />

Colonel Sam Robertson, who turned his<br />

attention to the island in 1926. He operated<br />

ferries at both the northern and southern<br />

ends, together with picturesque wooden<br />

✧<br />

Top: The Key to the Gulf store in the early<br />

1900s, showing its distinctive marine life<br />

murals painted by one-armed artist José<br />

Moreles García in the early 1900s.<br />

COURTESY OF THE PORT ISABEL HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Above: The Port Isabel <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum<br />

is housed in the carefully renovated<br />

Champion Store with its marine murals<br />

restored. Inside, exhibits present the history<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and the coastal<br />

area in paintings, photographs and exhibits.<br />

A walk through the courtyard takes visitors<br />

to the Treasures of the Gulf Museum,<br />

opened in mid-2000.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

69


✧<br />

Below: A statue of Padre Nicolás Ballí, for<br />

whom the island is named, welcomes<br />

visitors to South Padre Island.<br />

hotels at each landing. When a hurricane<br />

destroyed the hotel on South Padre in the<br />

depression year of 1933, dreams of developing<br />

the island as a resort were shelved. It was<br />

not until 1952 that the long-awaited causeway<br />

brought its dunes and beaches within<br />

easy reach of motorists. Hotels and motels<br />

were built, private lots were sold, and the<br />

island soon became a favorite vacation spot.<br />

The Town of South Padre Island was<br />

formally established at the southern tip in<br />

1973, and the island now has a growing<br />

community of permanent residents who have<br />

put down roots in the shifting sands. Its<br />

hotels and motels, restaurants, natural and<br />

man-made attractions, and specialized<br />

businesses rival those of any resort in the<br />

country. They welcome a constant stream of<br />

visitors who come to enjoy the sun, sand, sea<br />

and legends, as well as the modern facilities.<br />

TWO LEADERS DURING<br />

VIOLENT TIMES<br />

Hero or villain? Patriot or bandit? Violent<br />

times breed violent men, and the unsettled<br />

times along the border from the 1830s to the<br />

1870s were filled with violence that bred heroes<br />

and villains, and some who were both heroes<br />

and villains. Sometimes they fought against<br />

each other—and sometimes they befriended<br />

each other. In examining the history of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, two such men reappear over<br />

several decades: John Salmon “Rip” Ford and<br />

Juan Nepomuceno Cortina, both products of<br />

their times. Several books have been written<br />

about each of them, and Ford wrote his own<br />

version of his life and times in Rip Ford’s Texas.<br />

A South Carolina native, Ford moved to<br />

Texas in 1836 at age twenty-one and served in<br />

the Texas army until 1838, then settled in San<br />

Augustine. He had “read medicine” and<br />

practiced medicine there until 1844, when he<br />

was elected to the House of the Ninth Texas<br />

Congress, where he introduced the resolution<br />

to accept the terms of annexation to the<br />

United States. His next move was to Austin as<br />

editor of the Austin Texas Democrat, a career<br />

he returned to from time to time in later years.<br />

During the Mexican War, Ford was in<br />

command of a spy company, during which he<br />

acquired the lasting nickname of “Rip.” When<br />

officially sending out notices of deaths, he kindly<br />

included at the first of the message, “Rest in<br />

Peace.” Later, under the press of battle<br />

conditions, this message was shortened to “R.I.P.”<br />

Later he became a captain in the Texas<br />

Rangers, where he had numerous Indian fights.<br />

He was sent to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in 1859 to<br />

match wits with Cortina and his followers, who<br />

had terrorized the Brownsville area for several<br />

months and kept eluding local authorities.<br />

With the help of another Ranger company and<br />

troops from the U.S. Army, Cortina and his<br />

men were driven across the river at <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City and they stayed in Mexico—for a while.<br />

In 1861 Ford served as a member of the<br />

Secession Convention, was elected colonel of<br />

the Second Texas Cavalry, and placed in<br />

command of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> District. It was<br />

his suggestion that led to the registration of<br />

steamboats under the Mexican flag so they<br />

could transport Confederate cotton to the<br />

port of Bagdad and onto ships headed for the<br />

cotton mills of Europe. In 1862 Ford was<br />

moved to Austin as commandant of new<br />

recruits, still keeping an eye on border<br />

operations protecting Confederate-Mexican<br />

trade. He led a group of Confederates to take<br />

Brownsville back from Union forces in 1864,<br />

and in 1865 led Confederate forces in the<br />

battle of Palmito Ranch, the last battle of the<br />

Civil War.<br />

After the war, he made his peace with the<br />

U.S. forces and was placed as commissioner of<br />

paroles for the Confederate troops in the area.<br />

He was a great aid in establishing peaceable<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

70


elations between the beaten Confederates and<br />

the victorious Yankee forces.<br />

Ford was in and out of Brownsville for many<br />

years, as editor of the Brownsville Sentinel, as a<br />

cattle and hide inspector in 1873, and, in 1874,<br />

he was mayor of Brownsville. He served in the<br />

Texas Senate from 1876-79, where he urged the<br />

promotion of immigration to Texas and popular<br />

education, supported in part from the sale of<br />

public lands. He spent his later years writing<br />

reminiscences and historical articles, and lived<br />

to be a charter member of the Texas State<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Association before his eventful life<br />

ended at age 82 in San Antonio in 1897.<br />

Juan Nepomuceno Cortina, nicknamed<br />

“Cheno,” was one of the most colorful and<br />

controversial figures of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

He was from a respected, established family<br />

which had held high offices in Camargo under<br />

Spanish and Mexican rule. His mother, Dona<br />

Refugio Cavazos, was the grandchild of José<br />

Salvador de la Garza, the original grantee of the<br />

Espíritu Santo grant, which included<br />

Brownsville. Cortina served in the Mexican<br />

army during the U.S.- Mexican War, after which<br />

his mother moved the family to her ranch about<br />

seven miles north of Brownsville. All members<br />

of the family became U.S. citizens.<br />

Cortina preferred the outdoor life and did<br />

not become educated like others in his family.<br />

Though he did not learn to read and write, he<br />

was a natural leader and became a champion<br />

of the tejanos, who often felt powerless and<br />

disenfranchised under their new rulers. He<br />

resented the way some of the newcomers to<br />

Brownsville acquired their land and the legal<br />

entanglements that resulted, and he felt that<br />

the courts and politics favored the newcomers.<br />

His anger grew and, as the result of an incident<br />

involving a former employee, Cortina and a<br />

large mob of tejanos and mexicanos raided<br />

Brownsville on September 28, 1859. “Viva<br />

Cheno Cortina! Mueran los Gringos! Viva la<br />

Republica de Mexico!” the mob shouted. They<br />

held the city for three days and five citizens<br />

were killed.<br />

Thus began the “Cortina War on the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>.” Many of the economically deprived<br />

and politically disenfranchised from both<br />

Brownsville and Matamoros hastened to join<br />

the rebel leader until he had a force of five to<br />

six hundred. Two companies of Texas Rangers<br />

came, the first headed by Captain W. G. Tobin,<br />

and then Captain Rip Ford and his Rangers<br />

arrived. Raids and skirmishes continued for<br />

five months until the U.S. Army was called in.<br />

Upon arriving in Brownsville, Major Samuel<br />

Heintzelman reported, “The whole country from<br />

Brownsville to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, 120 miles, and<br />

back to the Arroyo Colorado has been laid waste,<br />

the citizens driven out, their horses and cattle<br />

driven across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> into Mexico.”<br />

Finally, after a series of battles along the<br />

Military Road and back and forth across the<br />

river, the hostilities ended with Cortina’s<br />

expulsion from Texas at <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City by<br />

the Texas Rangers and U.S. Army forces. In the<br />

lull following the fight at <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, the<br />

steamboat Ranchero tried to make its way from<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City to the mouth of the river with<br />

a valuable cargo, including $60,000 in gold<br />

and silver coins.<br />

La Bolsa Bend, which lies about thirty-five<br />

miles above Brownsville, was a great loop in<br />

the river, with the open part facing Mexico. On<br />

the Mexican side was the rancheria of La Bolsa,<br />

and there Cortina established himself with an<br />

estimated two to four hundred men to attack<br />

and raid the Ranchero. Ford and his Texas<br />

Rangers arrived, along with another group of<br />

Rangers under Captain Tobin. A violent, noisy<br />

skirmish ensued. The Ranchero managed to<br />

escape intact, the Rangers won the battle, and<br />

Cortina and his men fled into the mountains.<br />

As Cortina was in retreat, Colonel Robert<br />

E. Lee assumed command of the military<br />

Department of Texas and set out for the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, arriving at Ringgold Barracks in<br />

April 1860. He witnessed the damage done to<br />

the people and the countryside, noting that<br />

many ranches had been destroyed or<br />

abandoned. He sent letters to officials in<br />

Reynosa and Tamaulipas with ominous<br />

overtones of what would happen if the<br />

“banditry” along the river continued. As<br />

peace came to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> frontier, Lee<br />

rode north to San Antonio, soon to be<br />

engulfed in events of greater importance.<br />

Cortina took refuge in the Burgos Mountains<br />

near Ciudad Victoria and became active in the<br />

military and political life of Mexico. He actively<br />

supported the Juarista government, which was<br />

✧<br />

Top: John Salmon “Rip” Ford.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BARKER TEXAS HISTORY CENTER,<br />

THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS, AUSTIN, TEXAS.<br />

Above: Juan Nepomuceno Cortina.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

CHAPTER IV<br />

71


✧<br />

Above: During the Civil War, Juan Cortina<br />

became governor and military commandant<br />

of Tamaulipas. This drawing depicts a fight<br />

between the forces of Cortina and Manuel<br />

Ruiz in the streets of Matamoros. This<br />

illustration was taken from Leslie’s<br />

Illustrated Newspaper, February 20, 1864.<br />

Below: The Battle of La Bolsa occurred at<br />

La Bolsa Bend about thirty-five miles<br />

upriver from Brownsville. The fight occurred<br />

around the steamer Ranchero, which was<br />

carrying a valuable cargo, including gold<br />

and silver.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

involved in a civil war of its own with the<br />

supporters of Emperor Maximilian.<br />

Through a series of revolts, imprisonments,<br />

and shootings, Cortina proclaimed himself<br />

governor and military commandant of<br />

Tamaulipas in 1864. Because of his loyalty and<br />

his control of the Matamoros customs house,<br />

the Juárez government recognized him and<br />

promoted him to general. For a time, he<br />

controlled all roads in and out of Matamoros,<br />

which was deeply involved in the cotton trade.<br />

In a presentation, “The Civil War Years in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>” made to the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Society in January 1960, Brownsville<br />

historian John H. Hunter said:<br />

All agree that Juan N. Cortina was a<br />

remarkable man both physically and mentally,<br />

although he was completely without formal<br />

education. He was a man who loved Mexico<br />

and who came to hate most Americans. He<br />

was a very practical man in his day-to-day<br />

operations and had a shrewd eye for a chance<br />

to turn a profit. In the summer of 1864, Ford<br />

appraised Cortina as follows:<br />

“We were receiving supplies through<br />

Matamoros, where General Cortina was in<br />

command. He was known to be friendly to the<br />

Union men; yet, he was not averse to allowing<br />

his friends to make an honest living by<br />

supplying Confederates. He did, however,<br />

object to delivering supplies any nearer to<br />

Matamoros than Reynosa.”<br />

After the Civil War ended, Cortina<br />

continued to live in Mexico. Trouble surfaced<br />

again in the early 1870s, when a series of<br />

cattle raids upset area ranchers and farmers.<br />

At the time there was a heavy demand for beef<br />

by the Cuban market, so Mexican cattle<br />

rustlers rounded up thousands of cattle and<br />

drove them across the river to ship to Cuba.<br />

At the center of the controversy was none<br />

other than Juan N. Cortina, who was accused<br />

of being the mastermind of the raids, some of<br />

which struck as far north as Corpus Christi. It<br />

was not until July 1875, after Cortina’s arrest<br />

by presidential order, that the raids subsided.<br />

Under guard near Mexico City, Cortina was<br />

imprisoned until his escape and triumphal<br />

return to Matamoros in 1876. However, an<br />

old enemy, Servando Canales, was then<br />

military governor of Tamaulipas. He arrested<br />

Cortina and condemned him to be shot, but<br />

Cortina’s old opponent, “Rip” Ford, went to<br />

Canales and persuaded him to spare his life.<br />

Cortina was turned over to the new president,<br />

Porfirio Díaz, and kept under house arrest in<br />

Mexico City, where he died in 1892 and was<br />

buried with military honors.<br />

There were many other heroes and patriots,<br />

villains, and bandits during those violent times,<br />

but few of them lasted as long, fought as hard<br />

for their beliefs, or have been the subject of as<br />

many stories as Colonel John Salmon Ford and<br />

General Juan Nepomuceno Cortina. May they<br />

Rest In Peace!<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

72


THE CIVIL WAR TO 1900<br />

THE CIVIL WAR ON THE RIO GRANDE<br />

By the end of 1860, the rumblings of a much broader war than the one sparked by Cortina<br />

reached the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Though only fourteen slaves were reported in all of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

in the 1860 census, the people of the area favored the South. The Texas Secession Convention met<br />

in Austin on January 28, 1861 and voted to secede from the Federal Union. A secessionist ordinance<br />

presented to the voters of Texas a few weeks later was approved by a statewide vote of<br />

46,129 to 14,697. Along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the measure was approved overwhelmingly by a vote of<br />

600 to 37 in Cameron County. In Hidalgo County, still sparsely populated, the vote was 62 to 10<br />

for secession, and in Starr County the vote was 180 to 2. Willacy County was still a part of<br />

Cameron County at that time.<br />

So, only a dozen years after Texas became a part of the United States, it chose a new mother<br />

country—the Confederacy. After the secessionist ordinance was passed, Fort Brown and other U.S.<br />

military posts in Texas were surrendered to agents of Texas and, within fifteen days, the Federal<br />

troops on the border had furled their flags and marched for the coast. Texas volunteers then took<br />

possession of all garrisons along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and were placed under the command of Colonel<br />

John S. “Rip” Ford and Colonel P. N. Puckett.<br />

The border area was in a strategic position during the Civil War from 1861 to 1865, resulting<br />

in a period of both turbulence and prosperity for both Brownsville and Matamoros. The Union<br />

army had blockaded most of the Atlantic and Gulf Coast ports of the Confederacy, but they had no<br />

control over the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, an international stream with free access to the vessels and citizens of<br />

both the United States and Mexico.<br />

The Confederacy looked to this area for a neutral port from which they could ship cotton to<br />

Europe and receive from them ammunition, guns, medicine, and other supplies of war. Cotton was<br />

✧<br />

Union troops moved in and out of the coastal<br />

area during the Civil War, trying to enforce<br />

the blockade, but they had no control over<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, an international stream.<br />

Here, the Daniel Webster departs from<br />

Point Isabel with U.S. troops on board. This<br />

illustration was taken from Harper’s<br />

Weekly, April 13, 1861.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

73


✧<br />

Above: At the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the<br />

port of Bagdad was on the Mexican side and<br />

Clarksville was on the U.S. side. Here,<br />

Clarksville is seen in the background as<br />

European ships wait to be loaded with<br />

cotton.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Below: The interior of Matamoros as seen<br />

from the church tower during the Civil War<br />

era. This illustration was taken from<br />

Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper, December<br />

5, 1863.<br />

transported from the Southern states in huge<br />

wagons and carried across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> by<br />

ferry to Bagdad, Mexico for shipment to<br />

Europe. At first, cotton flowed freely to<br />

Brownsville and on to Bagdad until the blockade<br />

became effective at Brazos Island in<br />

February 1862. In a move that greatly frustrated<br />

the Union, the King and Kenedy ships<br />

were transferred to Mexican registry, and the<br />

cotton trade continued.<br />

When the war began, cotton could be<br />

bought for six to ten cents per pound<br />

Confederate currency all over the growing<br />

regions of Texas, Louisiana, and Arkansas. As<br />

early as August 1862, it was bringing 16 cents,<br />

and late in 1862 in went to 25 cents. In 1863,<br />

the going price was thirty-six cents per pound,<br />

and the price escalated to almost a dollar a<br />

pound at its peak. European mills needed the<br />

cotton, and the Confederacy needed the<br />

supplies that could be bought with its sale.<br />

Before the war, Bagdad was a small fishing<br />

village that served as a customs house port of<br />

entry for all goods destined for Mexico through<br />

Matamoros. From 1862 to 1865 it grew from a<br />

collection of a few fishermen’s huts to a sandy<br />

townsite of fifteen thousand people. It had<br />

dwellings of every description, as were its<br />

citizens, all attracted there by the lure of gold.<br />

From 100 to 200 vessels were constantly<br />

anchored there, receiving or discharging cargo.<br />

The ships brought supplies desperately<br />

needed by the Confederacy: arms and ammunition,<br />

coffee, foodstuffs, even silks and linens<br />

and European wines. Initially, supplies were<br />

unloaded and cargo transported to Point<br />

Isabel, then carried by wagon to Brownsville.<br />

After Union forces arrived to try to enforce the<br />

blockade, the traffic moved to Bagdad, and<br />

incoming goods were carried to Brownsville<br />

on the Mexican side of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

A few hundred yards away, on the other<br />

side of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, was the little town of<br />

Clarksville, which had a pilot’s station,<br />

wharves, repair shops and warehouses, and a<br />

customs house. It also had one hotel, general<br />

stores and other businesses, and a few homes.<br />

The little town led a precarious existence<br />

during the war as Federal and Confederate<br />

forces surged back and forth, advancing and<br />

retreating along the north bank of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> with Clarksville in between.<br />

In January 1863, General H. P. Bee took<br />

command of the Confederacy along the border,<br />

including Fort Brown and other garrisons that<br />

had been taken over by Texas volunteers. In<br />

November 1863 General Bee received word that<br />

Federal gunboats and transports had anchored<br />

near Brazos Santiago Pass, and the next day<br />

Federal troops started toward Brownsville to<br />

capture Fort Brown. Outnumbered a hundred to<br />

one, General Bee evacuated Fort Brown, but<br />

prior to his departure he set fire to all of the<br />

government buildings and to 200 bales of cotton<br />

stored in the garrison. He dumped the<br />

remaining bales into the river, along with his<br />

siege guns, and then fled.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

74


To make matters worse, eight thousand<br />

pounds of gunpowder stored in Fort Brown<br />

exploded in a great roar, spreading the flames<br />

to the town. Before the fires were brought<br />

under control, Fort Brown had been<br />

completely destroyed, and extensive damage<br />

done to Brownsville. The small Confederate<br />

force moved northward, leaving the citizens<br />

to fend for themselves. But that didn’t end the<br />

cotton trade. Bales were delivered to <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City and Roma, and sent downriver to<br />

Bagdad by the steamboats plying the river<br />

under international registry.<br />

Colonel Ford, who had been moved to San<br />

Antonio with the Confederacy in 1862,<br />

started a drive to recapture the border forts.<br />

He gathered troops and marched south, first<br />

occupying Ringgold Barracks at <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City. From there he gathered information on<br />

the size of the Union Army at Brownsville.<br />

Though the Federals were estimated at seven<br />

thousand, Ford was determined to force a<br />

confrontation with his fifteen thousand<br />

Texans. On July 30, 1864, a Rebel patrol<br />

under Colonel Ford rode into Brownsville to<br />

find that the Federals had evacuated the city<br />

two days earlier, retreating toward the coast.<br />

Ford attacked their rear guard and Rebel<br />

forces later drove the Federals from Point<br />

Isabel to their fortifications on Brazos Island,<br />

where they stayed until the end of the war.<br />

Ford occupied Brownsville in July 1864, and<br />

it remained in Confederate hands until the<br />

end of the war.<br />

The cotton trade returned to Brownsville<br />

after the Union evacuation, but the volume was<br />

smaller, partly because of unsettled conditions<br />

in Matamoros. Merchants became overstocked<br />

with supplies and cotton prices fell with the<br />

impending end of the Civil War. The great days<br />

of wheeling and dealing along the border were<br />

coming to an end.<br />

THE LAST BATTLE OF<br />

THE CIVIL WAR<br />

The Civil War ended when General Lee<br />

surrendered at Appomattox on April 9, 1865,<br />

but it was May 18 before word reached the<br />

Union troops at Brazos Island, which had a<br />

garrison of twelve hundred men. There,<br />

Colonel Theodore H. Barrett, who had failed<br />

to see much active duty during the war, was<br />

determined to make one last effort to end the<br />

cotton trade.<br />

On the evening of May 11, 1865, in a<br />

blinding rainstorm, Colonel Barrett and a force<br />

of three hundred soldiers from the Union<br />

garrison on Brazos Island moved to the<br />

mainland and began marching on Brownsville.<br />

Early the next morning, they clashed with<br />

Confederates at Palmito Ranch and, after an<br />

exchange of fire, the Federals drove the Rebels<br />

back and set fire to the ranch.<br />

On the afternoon of May 13, Colonel Ford<br />

arrived from Brownsville with Rebel<br />

reinforcements. Though the indomitable Ford<br />

had heard of the surrender, he was not about to<br />

let the Yankees get his friends’ cotton. He<br />

ordered his infantry to assault the Federal left<br />

flank while his artillery shelled the main<br />

Federal line. Three times the Federal forces<br />

tried to make a stand against the advancing<br />

Rebels, but were unsuccessful. Ford’s pursuit<br />

continued until the Federal forces were driven<br />

back to Brazos Island. Thus, Palmito Ranch<br />

became the last battle of the Civil War on May<br />

13, 1865, five weeks after Lee’s surrender.<br />

Only one Confederate soldier was killed at<br />

Palmito Ranch and another died five weeks later.<br />

They were John Jefferson William from<br />

Company B of the Thirty-fourth Infantry, and Bill<br />

✧<br />

In November 1863 word came that Federal<br />

troops were on their way to Brownsville.<br />

Here, the Confederates are shown<br />

evacuating Brownsville in advance of the<br />

troops. Many Brownsville citizens took<br />

refuge in Matamoros until Colonel Rip Ford<br />

recaptured the city for the Confederates in<br />

July 1864. This illustration appeared in the<br />

January 9, 1864, issue of The Illustrated<br />

London News.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

75


✧<br />

Above: Though most of the Civil War<br />

activity centered around Brownsville, Fort<br />

Ringgold at the other end of the <strong>Valley</strong> also<br />

played an important role.<br />

Below: The old Cavalry Building was among<br />

Fort Brown buildings rebuilt after the Civil<br />

War. Now it houses classrooms and offices<br />

for UT-Brownsville/Texas Southmost College.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

76<br />

Redman, a nineteen-year-old black soldier,<br />

who died five weeks later from his wounds.<br />

Early Confederate writers wanted only to<br />

glorify the victory and claimed there were many<br />

more fatalities.<br />

The victory gave Ford and the Confederate<br />

officials time to put their affairs in order. A<br />

Matamoros merchant had a large amount of<br />

Confederate silver on deposit. In return for his<br />

services in protecting the cotton clean-out, Ford<br />

convinced the merchant to give him $20,000 in<br />

gold. He then took the money and paid off the<br />

men in his command before formally<br />

disbanding them. They are said to be the only<br />

Confederate forces to be paid off in hard money.<br />

Ford and his associates crossed into<br />

Mexico to await developments. Soon, Federal<br />

forces under General Phil Sheridan took<br />

control of Brownsville, and the reconstruction<br />

began. King and Kenedy reorganized as an<br />

American company and took contracts to<br />

supply U.S. troops and transport supplies up<br />

the river. Ford made his peace with General<br />

Sheridan on the basis of one old soldier to<br />

another and became commissioner of paroles<br />

for the Confederate troops of the area. The<br />

Civil War was over and it was time for the<br />

healing to begin.<br />

The great hurricane of 1867 almost washed<br />

away the once-bustling Port of Bagdad and<br />

Clarksville on the U.S. side at the mouth of<br />

the river. A hurricane in 1874 completed<br />

destruction of both Clarksville and Bagdad. In<br />

a few years, the ever-blowing sands left little<br />

trace of where these towns had stood, and<br />

nothing remains at the sites today as a<br />

reminder of the part they played in the cotton<br />

trade during the Civil War.<br />

AFTER THE CIVIL WAR<br />

The South was devastated by the Civil War,<br />

and Texas was no exception. In addition to<br />

the adjustments of reconstruction, a series of<br />

disasters and misfortunes struck the region,<br />

beginning with a deadly cholera epidemic in<br />

1866. The winter of 1866-67 was the worst<br />

on record, with snow falling for the first time<br />

since 1835. The summer of 1867 brought<br />

an outbreak of yellow fever, which took the<br />

lives of an estimated one-third of the citizens<br />

of the area.<br />

During the war, many of the merchants<br />

and speculators in Brownsville had made<br />

fortunes. However, the losses of the<br />

readjustment years cost them dearly. The<br />

Confederate quartermaster corps ceased to<br />

operate in May of 1865, leaving many<br />

merchants with huge inventories for which<br />

there was no market. Some dealers in cotton<br />

lost thousands of dollars because of failure to<br />

receive delivery or to resell before the price<br />

dropped, which was almost overnight.<br />

The occupation of Brownsville under<br />

General Sheridan was difficult for the civilians.<br />

The homes of many who had taken<br />

refuge in Matamoros during the war period<br />

were appropriated by the military as abandoned<br />

property, and Sheridan’s commanders<br />

were reluctant to release the residences, even<br />

after officials had cleared their owners for<br />

return. Colonel Rip Ford, respected by the<br />

Unionists as a military officer, was appointed<br />

Commissioner of Paroles for the Confederate<br />

troops still in the area, and his contact with<br />

the Union officers helped many of his<br />

Confederate friends get resettled.<br />

As if these were not enough problems, a<br />

major hurricane hit South Texas on October<br />

8, 1867, destroying Bagdad and Clarksville<br />

and doing great damage to the Brownsville/<br />

Matamoros area. The Incarnate Word Convent<br />

and other church buildings were damaged or<br />

destroyed, and most of the Mexican jacales<br />

were flattened. In the countryside the damage<br />

was just as great. Ranch buildings went down,<br />

crops were destroyed, and cattle scattered.


In October and November 1870, there was a<br />

yellow fever scare all along the Gulf Coast,<br />

and the area was quarantined, with no one<br />

allowed to enter Cameron County for a time.<br />

As a result of the fire of 1863 and the<br />

hurricane of 1867, Fort Brown had to be<br />

reconstructed. Seventy buildings were built<br />

and the Quartermaster’s Fence was rebuilt of<br />

brick. Construction was finished in 1869, and<br />

the post served infantry, cavalry, and artillery<br />

units, continuing its role in the community<br />

well into the next century. As they did after<br />

the U.S.-Mexican War, some of those stationed<br />

on the border during the Civil War<br />

stayed or returned to make their lives in the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

These buildings are now part of the campus<br />

of the University of Texas-Brownsville/<br />

Texas Southmost College. It was at the Fort<br />

Brown post hospital in 1882 that Major<br />

William C. Gorgas performed autopsies on<br />

yellow fever victims and eventually traced the<br />

cause to a mosquito, which led to the ultimate<br />

conquest of the disease.<br />

Contact with the outside world was still<br />

limited to transportation supplied by horses<br />

or horse-drawn vehicles and steamboats.<br />

Determined to improve transportation to and<br />

from the area, a contract was made between a<br />

group of Brownsville merchants and the<br />

Celaya brothers to build the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Railroad from Point Isabel to Brownsville. By<br />

1872 it was operating with two locomotives;<br />

twelve boxcars and twelve flat cars, one<br />

service car; two lighters (barges for unloading<br />

merchandise from the ships), two terminal<br />

depots, a roundhouse and shop at<br />

Brownsville, and a wharf that extended into<br />

Laguna Madre at Point Isabel. The narrow<br />

gauge road carried freight and sometimes<br />

people back and forth until after the turn of<br />

the century.<br />

Though King and Kenedy transferred their<br />

main interests from steamboats to ranching,<br />

King still often plunged into other lines of<br />

endeavor. He built and put into operation the<br />

first really modern ice plant to be installed in<br />

Brownsville. He bought the mail and stage<br />

line which ran from Corpus Christi to Laredo<br />

and from Brownsville to San Antonio,<br />

purchased new equipment and fast horses,<br />

and saw that a dependable schedule was<br />

maintained. The new coaches, built in<br />

Concord, New Hampshire, were roomy,<br />

carrying eighteen passengers, with room for<br />

trunks and other heavy luggage. In spite of its<br />

fine equipment, the stage line never made a<br />

profit and soon the railroads made the<br />

stagecoach obsolete.<br />

Steamship service to the <strong>Valley</strong> was<br />

established shortly after the Civil War ended,<br />

first by the Morgan Line from New Orleans to<br />

Brazos by way of Indianola or Galveston. It<br />

carried passengers, mail, silver and gold<br />

coins, and general cargo on a regular<br />

schedule. American vessels entering Brazos<br />

came mostly from Mexico and Cuba, with<br />

most of the foreign vessels coming directly<br />

from Europe, especially from English and<br />

French ports. This commerce gradually<br />

increased, and soon all of it was moving<br />

through Brazos, encouraged by the new<br />

facilities which the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad<br />

offered for the transportation of cargoes to<br />

Brownsville and on to Matamoros.<br />

In 1882 the completion of a narrow gauge<br />

railroad from Corpus Christi to Laredo, the<br />

standard gauge International and Great<br />

Northern from San Antonio to Laredo soon<br />

after, and of the Nuevo Laredo to Monterrey<br />

section of the Mexican National Railway in 1883<br />

ended the northern Mexico trade for Cameron<br />

County. The carts and wagons traveling over the<br />

old road to Monterrey could not compete with<br />

the iron horse, and the <strong>Valley</strong> once again became<br />

✧<br />

The Army Post Hospital at Fort Brown was<br />

built in 1868 with a floor area of 16,500<br />

square feet at a cost of $27,820, and used<br />

more than one million bricks, which were<br />

purchased up and down both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. It has been carefully maintained<br />

and renovated to house the UT-<br />

Brownsville/Texas Southmost College<br />

administrative offices.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

77


✧<br />

Ranch family in a typical jacale. The walls<br />

were made of upright mesquite posts, held<br />

together by interwoven poles of willow. The<br />

roofs were made of grass and the floors were<br />

hard-tamped earth.<br />

COURTESY OF HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

an isolated region. The area’s population<br />

dwindled by 1890, but the hardy ones remained<br />

to lay the groundwork for the changes to come.<br />

Early ventures in farming and irrigation began,<br />

which will be explored in a later chapter.<br />

The most serious threat to international peace<br />

along the border during the decade following the<br />

Civil War came from the raids made by armed<br />

bands of Mexicans who crossed the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

to drive large numbers of cattle and horses from<br />

the ranching country into Tamaulipas. In<br />

Mexico, the stolen cattle were sold in the hide<br />

markets of Matamoros and also in the markets of<br />

Monterrey and Saltillo, where both hides and<br />

meat were used. Some groups moved about the<br />

country killing stock on the range, skinned<br />

them, and hauled the hides off to market.<br />

These depredations all along the river got<br />

so bad that the Texas Rangers were called in<br />

again in 1875, when as many as 200,000 head<br />

of cattle were being siphoned across the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> each year. Isolated ranches were<br />

raided, the people shot and often tortured,<br />

their homes burned.<br />

CAPTAIN MCNELLY’ S RANGERS<br />

A topnotch young officer named L. H.<br />

McNelly, a former Confederate, was named<br />

captain of the re-established Texas Rangers and<br />

given the task of enlisting a company of men<br />

for duty along the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. In May<br />

1875 he led his rangers into Brownsville. A<br />

brilliant leader, he had the respect of the fifty<br />

men who served with him, who met his<br />

requirements of unflinching bravery, disregard<br />

of hardship, and skill with firearms and horses.<br />

The McNelly rangers brought a quick change<br />

to the outlawry on the border, and the formerly<br />

attractive pursuit of stealing cattle from Texas<br />

lost its appeal. His most famous clash with the<br />

bandits came at Las Cuevas Ranch, near today’s<br />

Los Ebanos Ferry crossing, on November 19,<br />

1875. After violent clashes between the rangers<br />

and the bandits’ supporters in Mexico, and<br />

threats from both sides, some of the cattle were<br />

returned across the river to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City. For<br />

a time conditions were quieter in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

In less than a year McNelly broke the back of<br />

the brigand forces that had been terrorizing the<br />

border for years, but in his dedication to the task<br />

he exhausted himself completely. Sick with<br />

tuberculosis, the legendary Texas Ranger Captain<br />

spent his declining months in Washington<br />

County and died in 1877 at thirty-four.<br />

A STABLE RANCHING ECONOMY<br />

Despite the bandit troubles and the area’s<br />

isolation, a stable ranching economy<br />

developed in the area during the last half of<br />

the century. Although some of the ranches<br />

were still owned by descendants of the<br />

original Spanish and Mexican grantees, much<br />

of the land had been acquired by others. The<br />

prosperity of the ranchers was affected by the<br />

bandit raids, droughts, wars, the lack of<br />

adequate transportation, and other obstacles.<br />

Still, stock raising was for many years the<br />

region’s most important occupation—and is<br />

still of great importance in parts of all four<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> counties. In addition to cattle and<br />

horses, essential for transportation as well as<br />

for working the cattle, sheep were important<br />

as their wool provided an important cash<br />

crop. Hogs also were grown, though not in<br />

great numbers.<br />

In Ranch Life in Hidalgo County After 1850,<br />

Emilia Schunior Ramírez of Edinburg described<br />

how the people lived and worked on the<br />

county’s 40 to 45 scattered ranches:<br />

The ranches were of two types. Along the<br />

river they were villages, or little towns. Most<br />

of the inhabitants of these villages were the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

78


owners of plots of land short distances from<br />

the village. The others worked on the farms of<br />

the landowners. Farther into the interior of<br />

the county, where the pasturelands were, the<br />

ranches were of a different sort. The family of<br />

the landowner had the ‘Big House’ on the<br />

ranch. There were small dwellings where the<br />

workers lived. On these ranches, the activities<br />

centered around the interests of the owner of<br />

the ranch. In the villages near the river there<br />

was greater independence of pursuit.<br />

Nevertheless, among the families in both<br />

types of ranches the ties of friendship and of<br />

family were close, so that the home life was<br />

about the same in all the ranches. Everyone<br />

knew everyone else, and though the means of<br />

communication and transportation were<br />

scarce, there was a feeling of kinship and<br />

unity among the early settlers.<br />

The home consisted of at least two<br />

structures, one forming the bedrooms, the other<br />

the kitchen-dining room. Between these there<br />

was usually a portal or roof, which served to<br />

provide shade which also protected the family<br />

against rain and sun when they went back and<br />

forth from one part of the home to the other.<br />

The houses, called jacales or huts, were<br />

constructed very substantially. The walls were<br />

made of upright mesquite posts, held together<br />

by interwoven poles of willow–quite long and<br />

flexible–and made solid by a filling of mud and<br />

small gravel. The surface was smoothed and<br />

whitewashed. The roofs were made of grass,<br />

tied neatly into bundles of uniform size with the<br />

fiber of the yucca leaf. The floors were of hardtamped<br />

earth, the smooth surface sprinkled<br />

with water and then swept. Later they were<br />

made of tipichil, a concrete-like composition of<br />

cement and small gravel. Usually there were two<br />

windows and one door in each building.<br />

There were also houses made of limestone<br />

blocks, obtained locally and cut in the<br />

primitive manner. These were built on the<br />

same plan as the jacales. Later, frame houses<br />

were built with front and back porches. All<br />

three types of houses were very sturdy.<br />

She told how the women managed the<br />

cooking and other household chores and<br />

described the ranch work of the men. The<br />

religious holidays of Easter and Christmas<br />

were celebrated, as were weddings and other<br />

family events, all observed with the same<br />

wholehearted abandon.<br />

In his introduction to the booklet in 1971,<br />

her son, Alfonso R. Ramírez wrote, “It was my<br />

mother’s wish that we would not forget this part<br />

of our heritage and that an authentic record<br />

could be preserved for other generations.”<br />

The rugged ranch life of the late 1800s<br />

would soon fade into the past as the twentieth<br />

century pioneers began to transform much of<br />

the dry brushland into productive farms<br />

through the magic of irrigation.<br />

✧<br />

A tejano family is shown grinding corn,<br />

then and now a staple in their diet. Most<br />

every ranch had small patches of corn for<br />

family use.<br />

COURTESY OF HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

79


✧<br />

Above: Benito Juárez, a Zapotec Indian from<br />

Oaxaca who became a lawyer and president<br />

of Mexico, was the dominant figure in<br />

Mexican history from 1855 to 1872. He<br />

was responsible for many reforms and is<br />

honored as one of the country’s major<br />

heroes. This portrait appeared in Historia<br />

de Mexico.<br />

Below: After the French defeat at Puebla,<br />

Napoleon III sent twenty-eight thousand<br />

troops to Mexico. Shown is an encampment<br />

of French troops on the main plaza at<br />

Tampico in November 1862. This<br />

illustration is from L’Illustration, January<br />

10, 1863.<br />

JUÁREZ, MAXIMILIAN<br />

DÍAZ IN M EXICO<br />

Throughout the Civil War in the United<br />

States, opposing forces fought each other in<br />

Mexico, with much of the action just across the<br />

border. Benito Juárez, a Zapotec Indian from<br />

Oaxaca who became a lawyer, was the dominant<br />

figure in Mexican history from 1855 to 1872. He<br />

joined Juan Álvarez and Ignacio Comonfort,<br />

who shared his liberal political and economic<br />

ideas, to oust Santa Anna from power in 1855.<br />

They proposed to establish constitutional<br />

government, abolish the privileges of the clergy<br />

and the military, and stimulate economic<br />

progress by putting the property of the church<br />

in circulation. As minister of justice under<br />

Álvarez, Juárez inaugurated the Reform with the<br />

Juárez Law to put an end to the judicial<br />

immunities enjoyed by the clergy and the<br />

military in purely civil cases.<br />

Opposition to this and other reforms was so<br />

intense that the stage was set for the bitter civil<br />

war of 1856-61. By 1861 the conservatives had<br />

been defeated and Juárez was elected president.<br />

However, the War of the Reform had wrecked<br />

the economy. The government was completely<br />

without funds and owed a huge foreign debt.<br />

Juárez saw no way to pay the debts and sought<br />

to defer payments for two years. His major<br />

creditors, Spain, England, and France,<br />

attempted to force payment by landing troops<br />

at Veracruz. Their goal was the customs house,<br />

which they knew had export/import monies<br />

&<br />

that could provide partial payment on Mexico’s<br />

debts to them.<br />

France was then ruled by Napoleon III and<br />

the Empress Eugenie, who had plans to add<br />

Mexico to their empire. They had been led to<br />

believe by influential Mexican conservatives,<br />

who were enjoying exile in Europe, that the<br />

Mexicans would welcome a foreign monarch<br />

and expected an easy victory. Soon after learning<br />

of this plan, Spain and England withdrew<br />

from the scene, leaving the French in control.<br />

The United States was too embroiled in its<br />

own internal problems to do anything except<br />

gnash its teeth in Washington about European<br />

forces on the North American continent.<br />

The French infantry, six thousand strong<br />

and feeling very superior to the Mexicans,<br />

marched inland with little opposition until<br />

they got to Puebla on May 5, 1862. There the<br />

Mexicans under General Ignacio Zaragosa<br />

made their stand, defeating the French<br />

soldiers, who were caught in a crossfire and<br />

then a downpour. After their bugles sounded<br />

retreat, they withdrew to stand together and<br />

softly sing La Marseillaise.<br />

In Puebla, Mexican bands blared and men<br />

rejoiced. Young General Porfirio Díaz<br />

ventured out onto the plain that night, not<br />

believing it possible that Mexico had defeated<br />

France. The victory is still celebrated as Cinco<br />

de Mayo, a national holiday.<br />

Angry at the defeat, Napoleon III sent<br />

twenty-eight thousand troops to Mexico and<br />

soon captured the Mexican capital. President<br />

Juárez fled north with his cabinet and a band<br />

of loyal followers.<br />

Meanwhile, the emperor of France was<br />

busy choosing a ruler for the addition to his<br />

empire. Of several young European princes<br />

who were “unemployed,” he and Princess<br />

Eugenie settled on Ferdinand Maximilian,<br />

brother of the emperor of Austria, Francis<br />

Joseph, House of Hapsburg. He had a pleasing<br />

personality and many interests, none too<br />

serious, with a dream of helping, leading,<br />

serving, and being at the heart of events.<br />

He had married young Belgian Princess<br />

Carlota, the daughter of King Leopold I, at the<br />

Royal Palace of Brussels in July 1857. At first<br />

he reigned over the Austrian provinces of<br />

Italy, but in 1859 France took the provinces<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

80


from Austria, and Maximilian found himself<br />

with no position and no prospects. He then<br />

took his bride to his home beside the sea, the<br />

beautiful castle of Miramar on the shore at<br />

Trieste, Italy. Though Max had some<br />

misgivings when approached by a delegation<br />

of Mexican émigrés to become emperor of<br />

Mexico, he felt the offer to be his destiny and<br />

soon accepted. The new emperor was 31, his<br />

empress 24, both elegant, untrained, and<br />

accustomed to wealth. The happy young<br />

monarchs practiced their Spanish on the trip<br />

over and Max wrote many pages of<br />

regulations for his court, such as lists of<br />

liquors to be served at the Imperial dinners.<br />

Veracruz was in the midst of a yellow fever<br />

epidemic when they arrived, and nobody was<br />

there to meet them. They journeyed on to the<br />

capital, dismayed at the conditions and<br />

inconveniences they found everywhere. France<br />

supplied them with soldiers under the<br />

command of General Francois Achille Bazaine, a<br />

seasoned officer of the French army, and money<br />

for their expenses. Max’s sweet smile and loving<br />

manner brought hope for peace to the Mexicans<br />

so starved for it, including General Tomás Mejía,<br />

newly allied with the French.<br />

Longing for the luxury left behind at<br />

Miramar, they discovered Chapultepec Palace,<br />

built by the Spaniards not far from the Zócalo<br />

and the National Palace in Mexico City. Soon<br />

every available construction worker was<br />

employed creating a home for Max and Carlota.<br />

In October 1865 Napoleon III and Bazaine<br />

maneuvered Maximilian into signing a decree<br />

which was the death warrant for anyone<br />

opposed to the empire. Mexico ran with blood.<br />

The Juaristas moved ever northward, into<br />

Chihuahua and what is now Ciudad Juárez.<br />

Though a representative of the Pope visited<br />

Mexico City with orders to return all the<br />

Juárez-confiscated church property and to<br />

cease any government control of the Church,<br />

Maximilian decreed that the Church lands not<br />

be returned, but remain in the possession of<br />

those who had purchased them, thereby<br />

hoping to gain support among the rising<br />

middle class and intellectuals of Mexico.<br />

But his regime was getting shaky as<br />

opposition by Juárez forces continued. The<br />

Imperialist troops were soundly defeated at the<br />

Battle of Santa Gertrudis near Camargo and <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City on June 16, 1866, which began<br />

his downward spiral. In Paris, Napoleon and<br />

his ministers grew restless. The anticipated<br />

profit from the Mexican venture seemed very<br />

long in coming. Carlota and Maximilian,<br />

ignoring France’s involvement in European<br />

upheavals, wrote for yet more troops and<br />

financial support. Finally, Napoleon lost all<br />

patience and ordered Bazaine and the French<br />

army out of Mexico without even informing<br />

Maximilian. Bazaine felt compelled to inform<br />

him about France’s abandonment. Those who<br />

were there wrote that Maximilian took the<br />

news calmly, but Carlota flew into a frenzy.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Juárez had taken his government to<br />

Querétaro during the French occupation.<br />

The city's main plaza today is a busy<br />

gathering place, as it has been for more<br />

than three centuries.<br />

Above: Querértaro’s plaza is surrounded by<br />

Spanish Colonial buildings and those built<br />

during later regimes, with little evidence of<br />

the intrigue and violence that has occupied<br />

the city at intervals.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

81


✧<br />

Above: After his defeat by Juárez, Maximilian<br />

was tried and condemned to death. His<br />

execution took place on the Hill of Bells<br />

outside Querétaro on June 19, 1867. This<br />

painting appeared in Historia de México.<br />

Below: General Porfirio Díaz was Mexico’s<br />

president for three decades, beginning in<br />

1877. He brought political stability and<br />

economic growth to Mexico, but he did so<br />

at the expense of individual freedom and<br />

independence. This portrait appeared in<br />

Historia de México.<br />

Determined to save the collapsing empire, she<br />

left at once for France to plead with Napoleon,<br />

then with Empress Eugenie and finally with the<br />

Pope, becoming more erratic each day. She<br />

became totally insane and believed everyone was<br />

trying to poison her. Convinced she was close to<br />

death, she wrote a touching farewell note to<br />

Maximilian, whom she called her “dearly<br />

beloved treasure.” Finally, her brother Phillipe,<br />

the count of Flanders, came and took her to<br />

Miramar, where she was confined to a barred<br />

room in the garden pavilion.<br />

The wonder of the age, the new interoceanic<br />

cable, brought the news of Carlota’s illness to<br />

Maximilian in Mexico City. He packed his<br />

personal treasures, planning to abdicate as<br />

advised by the French, but others persuaded him<br />

to stay and fight. All over Mexico, French citizens<br />

packed and fled, as did Bazaine and the French<br />

army, departing en masse on February 5, 1867.<br />

Gathering an irregular army of nine thousand<br />

men, he left the capital city one week after the<br />

French army sailed for France. They marched to<br />

Quéretaro, and the emperor set up his<br />

headquarters on the small Hill of the Bells on the<br />

city’s edge. The Liberal army of Benito Juárez,<br />

forty thousand strong, surrounded the town.<br />

Maximilian and his troops held out until May 15,<br />

1867, when Liberal forces broke through a wall<br />

and captured Maximilian’s army. After a military<br />

trial, Maximilian was sentenced to death by a<br />

firing squad. He folded his hands over his heart<br />

and in a clear, ringing voice said, “I forgive<br />

everybody. I pray that everyone may also forgive<br />

me, and I wish that my blood, which is now to be<br />

shed, may be for the good of the country. Long<br />

live Mexico, long live independence!” The Empire<br />

was no more. Carlota remained in her insane<br />

world until 1927, dying at age eighty-seven.<br />

Juárez returned to Mexico City in July 1867<br />

and was re-elected president. As he undertook<br />

the difficult task of reconstruction, his rule was<br />

handicapped by uprisings and factional<br />

opposition. Juárez died on July 18, 1872. He<br />

tried to make Mexico into a democratic federal<br />

republic and to save the nation from its internal<br />

and foreign enemies. While he did not<br />

completely achieve his objectives, he is respected<br />

and honored as one of Mexico’s greatest leaders.<br />

Revolution again swept Mexico in early<br />

1876. An uprising against the government of<br />

Sebastián Lerdo de Tejado was led by an<br />

astute and tough young general, Porfirio Díaz,<br />

who plotted his revolution while living in<br />

exile in Brownsville. While he was plotting in<br />

Brownsville, the town’s citizens raised funds<br />

for his cause in return for his promise to rid<br />

the border of the infamous General Cortina.<br />

When he came into power, Díaz fulfilled his<br />

promise by forcing Cortina to live in the capital,<br />

under surveillance, for the rest of his life.<br />

The years that followed brought great change<br />

to Mexico, much of which had a bearing on the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. A Mixtec Indian from a poor<br />

agrarian family in Oaxaca, Díaz had been a law<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

82


student of Juárez. When he came to power, he<br />

attempted to bring his country into the<br />

company of modern world powers. His<br />

economic policies were strikingly successful. He<br />

built hundreds of miles of railroads, encouraged<br />

foreign investments, and American investors<br />

increased their stake in Mexico’s economy.<br />

In return for cooperation along the border<br />

and mildness in protesting United States pursuit<br />

of bandits and Indians across the frontier, he<br />

gained recognition for his regime. To appease<br />

domestic enemies he distributed economic<br />

benefits and public offices to the various political<br />

and military factions. For the old conservatives<br />

and Catholics he did not strictly enforce the<br />

anticlerical legislation of the Juárez years.<br />

Díaz brought political stability and economic<br />

growth to Mexico, but he did so at the expense<br />

of individual freedom and independence.<br />

During his time, Mexico’s natural wealth was in<br />

the hands of some three percent of the<br />

population. The lower classes benefited only<br />

slightly, and when they protested they were<br />

brutally suppressed. Toward the end of the<br />

regime, political and economic opportunities<br />

were closed off for some upper and middle-class<br />

groups as well.<br />

At the end of the century, relations between<br />

the U.S. and Mexico were excellent, but the<br />

Mexican people were hungering for more<br />

control of their land, more freedom, and greater<br />

economic opportunities. This would lead to<br />

another revolution in the next century, which<br />

again would greatly affect the borderlands.<br />

EARLY PLANTATIONS &<br />

EXPERIMENTS IN IRRIGATION<br />

Closner’s San Juan Plantation south of Pharr, the<br />

daughter of its foreman, W. L. Lipscomb and Ada<br />

Dougherty, who had come from Brownsville to<br />

teach school on the plantation.<br />

THE SANTA ANITA GRANT &<br />

MCALLEN RANCH<br />

In the northwest corner of Hidalgo County<br />

northwest of Edinburg, the McAllen Ranch,<br />

part of the Santa Anita grant, has been in the<br />

same family since 1790. In 1980, when it was<br />

awarded membership in the Texas Department<br />

of Agriculture’s Family Land Heritage<br />

Program, which honors those families that<br />

have owned and continuously operated a farm<br />

or ranch for one hundred years or more, the<br />

McAllen Ranch was the oldest in the Family<br />

Land Heritage Registry.<br />

Awarded to José Manuel Gómez in 1790, the<br />

ranch of about ninety-five thousand acres raised<br />

herds of cattle, sheep, goats and horses. He<br />

married Gregoria Ballí Dominguez, a widow<br />

with two sons; they had no more children.<br />

Salomé Ballí, great-granddaughter of Gregoria<br />

Ballí, inherited all of Santa Anita. She married<br />

John Young in 1848, who helped her manage<br />

and expand the ranch, and they had a son, also<br />

named John. The senior Young died in 1859,<br />

leaving half of his estate to his wife and half to<br />

his son. She asked his young business associate,<br />

John McAllen, to help manage her holdings.<br />

They married in 1861 and had a son, James.<br />

✧<br />

Above: John McAllen around 1900.<br />

Below: Though he spent time on the ranch,<br />

John McAllen lived mostly in Brownsville in<br />

his later years. A hunting group is shown<br />

around 1915 in front of the ranch house he<br />

built, which has been home to five<br />

generations of McAllens. His grandson<br />

Argyle and wife Margaret made their home<br />

there and were prime movers in establishing<br />

and supporting the Hidalgo County<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Museum. His great-grandson,<br />

James McAllen, now operates the ranch.<br />

COURTESY OF ROBERT A. MCALLEN.<br />

Though José de Escandón’s early dream for<br />

the region had included the magic of water<br />

transported to grow crops, irrigation efforts of<br />

the Spanish colonists were unsuccessful.<br />

Through the years, many people recognized the<br />

fertility of the soil—if only irrigation were<br />

available. While ranching continued as the main<br />

agricultural activity, the late 1800s saw<br />

movement toward a more diversified agriculture.<br />

Some of the major enterprises are described by<br />

Hidalgo County educator-historian Anne L.<br />

Magee in “Old Plantations in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>” in Gift of the <strong>Rio</strong>. She was born on John<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

83


✧<br />

Above: When Our Lady of Visitation Chapel<br />

was dedicated on June 29, 1882, Santa<br />

María was the only town between<br />

Brownsville and Hidalgo. The quiet chapel is<br />

one of the few visible reminders of early<br />

Catholic horseback missionaries who rode the<br />

river trail between Brownsville and Roma.<br />

Below: La Casa Blanca at Rancho de Santa<br />

María was built in 1870 by Judge L. J.<br />

Hynes and has been through several<br />

owners, names, and renovations. A stop on<br />

the steamboat line in its early days, the<br />

home was always kept in readiness for<br />

friends or wayfarers who traveled that way.<br />

This is how it looked in 1970.<br />

When Salomé McAllen died in 1898, the<br />

ranch was divided between her sons and her<br />

husband. The Santa Anita was partitioned, and<br />

the western half became the San Juanito, later<br />

named the McAllen Ranch. The McAllens<br />

upgraded the livestock from Longhorn to<br />

Hereford cattle and experimented with several<br />

species of exotic plants, including many<br />

varieties of grapes, citrus fruits, figs, olives,<br />

date palms and ornamentals. John McAllen<br />

lived until 1913 to see a new city built on part<br />

of his ranch and named for him. The ranch<br />

passed on to James McAllen’s descendants,<br />

who have pursued wild game management and<br />

conservation along with raising Beefmaster<br />

cattle. Various exotic species of game animals<br />

are bred and managed on the ranch, and there<br />

is an effective program to breed and improve<br />

white-tailed deer.<br />

SANTA MARÍA WAS A<br />

RIVER PORT<br />

Though the river is now quite a distance<br />

south of Santa María, during the steamboat<br />

era the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> flowed by Rancho de Santa<br />

María, one of the few early settlements north<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. General Taylor had a<br />

headquarters building just west of the ranch<br />

during the U.S.-Mexican War, and in 1850 the<br />

U.S. Cavalry established a substation of Fort<br />

Brown and Fort Ringgold there.<br />

In 1870, Judge L. J. Hynes acquired the<br />

ranch and built a large compound, including<br />

a spacious white ranch-type home that faced<br />

the riverboat landing and shipping wharf.<br />

The home was always kept in readiness for<br />

any friends or wayfarers who traveled that way.<br />

In addition to stables and dairy buildings,<br />

there were a small barracks, an ammunition<br />

building, and a stage depot. Crops included<br />

vegetables, cotton, corn and other grains. In<br />

1880 Hynes donated land for a chapel named<br />

Our Lady of Visitation Catholic Church across<br />

the Military Road, a miniature copy of the<br />

Gothic-style Immaculate Conception Church<br />

in Brownsville that was designed by Father<br />

Pierre Keralum.<br />

At the beginning of the 1890s, Santa María<br />

had a population of 300 and was the third<br />

largest town in Cameron County after<br />

Brownsville, with 7,000 people, and Port<br />

Isabel, with 500, according to Lieutenant W.<br />

H. Chatfield in his remarkable 1893<br />

publication, The Twin Cities of the Border and<br />

the Country of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, published after<br />

he completed a tour of duty at Fort Brown.<br />

Here is his description of Santa María:<br />

There are two small collections of<br />

buildings about half a mile apart. The upper<br />

village contains the residence of Col. J. G.<br />

Tucker, which is delightfully situated amid a<br />

grove of spreading trees and has a beautiful<br />

green lawn. Across the way are the<br />

customhouse and two general stores,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

84


elonging to Dr. Smith and Mr. Champion,<br />

who have been engaged in various pursuits on<br />

this border for many years. The post office is<br />

located in Smith’s store. A number of jacales<br />

glistening with whitewash line the single<br />

street and make a pleasant picture.<br />

Col. Tucker has inaugurated a development<br />

of the resources of this section which will<br />

undoubtedly revolutionize the present methods<br />

of agriculture, and open up possibilities for the<br />

future which are simply grand in their scope<br />

and will prove as profitable as they are<br />

extensive. He is endeavoring to form syndicates<br />

for the culture of Havana tobacco, sea-island<br />

cotton and sugar cane on a large scale, all of<br />

which products he is raising on his ranch.<br />

In the lower village there is another general<br />

store, which was owned for many years by<br />

Judge L. J. Hynes, but was recently sold to<br />

Messrs. Frank Rabb and Fred Starck of<br />

Brownsville, together with a large tract of land.<br />

The steamboat landing is at the foot of a<br />

splendidly cultivated cornfield, stretching<br />

away from the house to the river. The sub-post<br />

of Santa María, which is situated just outside of<br />

the ranch, is garrisoned by a small detachment<br />

of United States troops from Fort Brown. The<br />

troops are changed every month, their military<br />

duties consisting of scouting up and down the<br />

river and repairing the military telegraph line<br />

connecting Fort Brown and Fort Ringgold.<br />

1870 he purchased a thousand acres from the<br />

Agostadero del Espíritu grant near<br />

Brownsville for $2,000. He dug canals and<br />

experimented with simple irrigation techniques.<br />

First he planted cotton, soon changing<br />

to sugarcane. Using the techniques of the<br />

Louisiana sugar industry, he began with a<br />

small mill using open kettles. In 1876 he<br />

installed a small pump for irrigating the cane<br />

and made the sugar into that best loved of<br />

Mexican confections—piloncillos, which he<br />

sold for ten cents a pound.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The old sugar mill at the Brulay<br />

Plantation near Brownsville. George Brulay,<br />

who came from France, obtained the first<br />

permit for irrigation from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

and began to produce sugar in 1876. His<br />

sugarcane industry flourished until 1905.<br />

COURTESY OF LEE LANGFORD.<br />

Below: A remnant of the dense native Sabal<br />

Texana palm groves that once lined the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> is preserved by the National<br />

Audubon Society at its Sabal Palm Refuge<br />

adjacent to the old Palm Grove Plantation.<br />

After the steamboats stopped plying the<br />

river and other towns were settled, Santa<br />

María declined. La Casa Blanca fell into<br />

disrepair and was severely damaged by the<br />

1933 hurricane. It was lovingly restored by<br />

Mr. and Mrs. K. L. Tanner in the 1950s, who<br />

made it their home for many years. Still<br />

beautiful, it can be seen from U.S. 281 amidst<br />

level fields, well cultivated by the present<br />

owners. Both the ranch and chapel have Texas<br />

historical makers.<br />

THE BRULAY PLANTATION<br />

AT BROWNSVILLE<br />

The first real success in irrigation can be<br />

traced to a <strong>Valley</strong> pioneer from France, George<br />

Brulay, who obtained the first permit for irrigation<br />

from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. In February of<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

85


✧<br />

This elegant two-story mansion at the Palm<br />

Grove Plantation seven miles east of<br />

Brownsville was built in the late 1800s by<br />

Frank Rabb, who cultivated cotton, corn<br />

and all types of vegetables on 3,000 acres<br />

by the river. The home was a center for<br />

entertaining by Rabb and his wife Lillian.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

86<br />

Brulay went to New Orleans to buy newer<br />

and better equipment. The machinery was<br />

brought to Brazos Santiago by boat, lightered<br />

to Port Isabel, and then shipped on the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Railroad to Brownsville. Brown sugar<br />

was in great demand at the time, and the business<br />

became very profitable. Brulay’s first mill,<br />

of frame construction, was built in 1873.<br />

After it burned down, he built a large new<br />

mill from bricks made on the plantation and<br />

installed the very latest machinery for refining<br />

sugar. Hundreds of laborers were employed in<br />

the work of cutting, transporting the cane on<br />

the string of small railcars that ran from the<br />

fields, and processing the sugar through various<br />

stages in the mill.<br />

His sugarcane industry remained Brulay’s<br />

chief interest, and it flourished until his death<br />

in 1905. Later, water was allowed to stand too<br />

long in the fields and salt, which ravaged<br />

lands in the coastal area, covered the ground<br />

and the family sold the plantation in 1911.<br />

The great brick building where “machinery<br />

whirled and industry sang” long stood empty<br />

and some of the walls and graceful arches still<br />

stand as monuments to the energy, pluck and<br />

industry of one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s great pioneers.<br />

THE PALM GROVE PLANTATION<br />

The Palm Grove Plantation-Ranch seven<br />

miles east of Brownsville was still in its wild<br />

state with beautiful native palm groves lining<br />

the river when Frank Rabb bought it in the<br />

late 1800s. At one time he had about 3,000<br />

acres, the soil rich and productive as a result<br />

of the yearly overflow of the river. Rabb built<br />

canals and cultivated cotton, corn, other<br />

grains, and all types of vegetables. He was also<br />

interested in building canals and railroads in<br />

different parts of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Rabb married Lillian M. Starck from a<br />

prominent Brownsville family and built an<br />

elegant two-story mansion in a beautiful<br />

setting that was a center for entertaining in<br />

the early days. In 1957 Ben F. Vaughan of<br />

Corpus Christi bought the property from the<br />

Rabb estate and did a magnificent historical<br />

restoration. It can be seen today next to the<br />

National Audubon Society’s Sabal Palm<br />

Refuge, which acquired the remaining patch<br />

of native Sabal Texana in the United States<br />

and protects it as a bird sanctuary.<br />

THE VELAS OF LAGUNA SECA<br />

One of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s best-known ranches is<br />

Laguna Seca, named for a dry lake on the land.<br />

It was established by Macedonio and Mercedes<br />

Vela of Reynosa in 1867 on a 4,428 acre tract<br />

of brushland he bought from John and Salome<br />

Ballí McAllen about twenty miles northwest of<br />

Edinburg. Some of the first citrus trees in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> were planted by daughter Carlota in<br />

1871. A priest, making his periodic rounds of<br />

the ranches, brought oranges as a gift to the<br />

family and he helped plant the seeds in young<br />

Carlota’s garden. Seven trees sprouted and<br />

flourished for seventy years, a forerunner of<br />

the citrus industry in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The four Vela sons helped their father<br />

expand the ranch until it covered over 80,000<br />

acres, and as many as fifty families once lived<br />

there. One of the first Catholic churches in the<br />

area was built on the ranch. A tiny post office<br />

called Delfina was established at Laguna Seca,<br />

and a school was built. A big bell that hung in<br />

front of the schoolhouse was used to call in the<br />

children from every part of the ranch. There<br />

were many weddings, some uniting the Vela<br />

family with other ranching families, including<br />

the Chapas, who established San Manuel.<br />

It had been the custom of the descendants<br />

of Macedonio Vela to have a large family


eunion every five years when, in 1984, they<br />

decided to go back a generation and invite<br />

descendants of the other five children of<br />

Macedonio’s parents, Salvador and Leonor<br />

Vela. The preparations took nearly a year, and<br />

about fifteen hundred registered. They came<br />

from everywhere—Texas and California,<br />

Arizona and Colorado, Pennsylvania and<br />

Florida, West Germany and Australia. There<br />

were many festivities during the celebration,<br />

with the main event a huge barbecue at<br />

Laguna Seca Ranch. Velas of all ages met for<br />

the first time and studied their genealogy.<br />

Skits were performed that portrayed stories of<br />

the hard life on the ranch, cattle, and romance<br />

of the land of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

The ranch has a lake fed by an artesian well<br />

that is stocked with fish, and there are deer,<br />

turkey and quail as well as cattle.<br />

THE WEBBER RANCH<br />

John F. Webber came from Vermont to<br />

Texas and received land in 1832 as one of<br />

Stephen F. Austin’s colonists. He settled about<br />

sixteen miles below present-day Austin. There<br />

he built a fort as a protection against Indians<br />

and the place developed into a sizeable<br />

frontier village known as Webber’s Prairie. He<br />

was married to a former slave, Silvia Hector,<br />

who was emancipated, along with her three<br />

children, by John Cryer in 1834. Webber took<br />

Silvia’s children as his own and they had eight<br />

more children. Beginning in the 1840s,<br />

newcomers from the Deep South resented<br />

Webber’s racially mixed marriage. The couple<br />

was ostracized and their children barred from<br />

public school. When they brought in a tutor<br />

to teach their children, the citizens threatened<br />

to kill the teacher.<br />

In 1851, Webber moved his family to the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> to start a new life in this<br />

rugged, but friendly, border country. In 1853<br />

he purchased two leagues (8,856 acres) in the<br />

Agostadero del Gato Grant and established his<br />

ranch headquarters on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> near<br />

where the Donna pumps are now located. He<br />

also purchased property in the La Blanca<br />

Grant and operated a public ferry. Sympathetic<br />

to the Union cause during the Civil War, he<br />

took his family into Mexico to avoid trouble<br />

during the Confederate occupation of the area.<br />

Fondly called “Juan Fernando” by his<br />

Mexican neighbors, he was known as a very<br />

kind person, eager and willing to help any<br />

passerby in need of food or shelter. Webber<br />

sold the northern half of his ranch to Edward<br />

Dougherty in 1877. Most of the property had<br />

been sold by his heirs to the Alamo Land and<br />

Sugar Company by 1918. Much of it has been<br />

recombined and is now part of Krenmuller<br />

Farms of San Juan.<br />

THE TOLUCA RANCH<br />

AT PROGRESO<br />

The Toluca Ranch, about a half-mile from<br />

the Progreso International Bridge, was<br />

established in 1880 by Don Florencio Saenz,<br />

a Spaniard from Matamoros, on five thousand<br />

acres that extended from the banks of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> to what is now the Edcouch-Elsa area.<br />

His wife Sostenes was the daughter of Antonio<br />

and Mauricia Cano, owners of Rancho<br />

Tampacuas, present-day Mercedes, which was<br />

sold in 1902 to the American Land and<br />

Irrigation Company. The Saenz’ adopted<br />

daughter, Manuela, married Amador<br />

Fernández in 1908, and their children<br />

inherited the ranch. Much smaller now, it has<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Relampago Ranch was near<br />

Progreso. A sizeable community named<br />

Relampago is still there today.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Top, right: Don Florencio Saenz of<br />

Toluca Ranch.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

87


✧<br />

Above: Don Florencio Saenz established<br />

Toluca Ranch in 1880. In addition to this<br />

spacious ranch house, there was a ranch<br />

store, schoolhouse, and church.<br />

Bottom, left: Toluca Ranch owner Florencio<br />

Saenz built St. Joseph’s Church for those<br />

who lived on his ranch, as was the custom<br />

of the early dons. Dedicated July 30, 1899,<br />

it was built in the architectural style of the<br />

early Oblate churches.<br />

Bottom, right: The widely admired interior<br />

of St. Joseph’s Church on Toluca Ranch<br />

near Progreso.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

been home to five generations and is still<br />

farmed by Fernández family members.<br />

The headquarters complex consists of the<br />

Church of St. Joseph, the spacious ranch<br />

house, ranch store and schoolhouse, all<br />

constructed of yellow brick produced on the<br />

ranch. The house and chapel can be seen by<br />

looking east from FM 1015 as the international<br />

bridge at Progreso is approached.<br />

Saenz used one of the first hand-operated<br />

pumps in the river to raise a bumper crop of<br />

sugarcane and also brought the first herd of<br />

domestic cattle to the area. The need for a<br />

sweet water well was apparent as the crops,<br />

cattle herd and ranch population grew. The<br />

first building on the homestead was the<br />

mission chapel of St. Joseph, a result of the<br />

search for good water. Saenz promised that,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

88


should he find water, he would build a church<br />

beside the well. At sixty feet, good, sweet<br />

water was struck and the well remains in use<br />

today. The chapel, dedicated in 1899, was<br />

built along the architectural style of Father<br />

Peter Keralum, though constructed long after<br />

he became lost and perished north of<br />

Mercedes. The beautiful chapel with its white<br />

walls and blue-veiled ceiling was carefully<br />

restored in 1995 by family members.<br />

THE SAN JUAN PLANTATION<br />

Another pioneer who saw the land’s great<br />

potential was John Closner, who came to<br />

Texas from Wisconsin in 1871. He hauled<br />

freight, sustained several illnesses and<br />

personal tragedies, and worked in railroad<br />

construction around Galveston and in<br />

Mexico, but the company went broke and he<br />

lost the money he had invested. He and his<br />

family arrived in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City with $15 in<br />

their pockets, and in 1883 he signed with<br />

López and Oxboro, who ran a two-horse stage<br />

line, to drive the mail by stagecoach for $75 a<br />

month. Soon he moved his family to Hidalgo.<br />

He had saved up enough money to purchase a<br />

tract of land, the quiet beginning of what<br />

would become the San Juan Plantation.<br />

Closner was once again out of a job when<br />

the competing Brownsville-Alice Stage Line<br />

started, and in 1884 he was named deputy<br />

sheriff of Hidalgo County by Sheriff James L.<br />

Dougherty. He would continue as deputy and<br />

later as sheriff for many years during a lawless<br />

time when people drew their guns and shot—<br />

and asked questions later. Meanwhile, he<br />

continued to acquire land, which ranged in<br />

price from twenty-five cents to one dollar per<br />

acre until his holdings came to forty-five<br />

thousand acres in Hidalgo County.<br />

Because annual rainfall was insufficient,<br />

irrigation was a necessity. Closner installed a<br />

river pumping plant and a system of canals<br />

and laterals. In 1895 he got a centrifugal<br />

pump and a portable steam engine from New<br />

York with a capacity sufficient to irrigate 200<br />

acres. In the early years he raised many kinds<br />

of crops—corn, alfalfa, sorghum, melons,<br />

onions, squash, tomatoes, beans, cabbage,<br />

cotton and tobacco, along with fruits such as<br />

peaches, plums, bananas, and grapes. But the<br />

product that brought worldwide acclaim to<br />

this area was sugarcane. In 1895 Closner<br />

began experimenting with it, crossing hybrid<br />

cane seed from Mexico with seed from topranking<br />

plantations in Louisiana. He<br />

developed a cane yielding far more tons per<br />

acre than Louisiana cane fields. Like Brulay,<br />

first he produced piloncillos, cones of hard,<br />

brown, unrefined sugar for which there was a<br />

local demand, but they were hard to ship and<br />

keep commercially.<br />

Closner ordered sugar mill equipment and<br />

began the production of refined sugar<br />

processed by a 250-ton mill. Each January<br />

and February he would hire experienced<br />

sugar mill operators from Louisiana to do the<br />

refining and mill work. For the Louisiana<br />

Purchase Centennial Exposition at St. Louis in<br />

1904, Closner entered a display of samples of<br />

cane cut at random from his crop, some seventeen<br />

feet tall. He won first prize over all<br />

competitors, including Cuba and Hawaii. This<br />

publicity spurred further interest in sugar in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>, encouraging outside capital to<br />

invest in that and other farming activities in<br />

the area.<br />

By 1908, the sugar industry developed<br />

problems, requiring a lot of irrigation and<br />

drainage. Salt buildup damaged the land,<br />

making this crop unsuitable. In 1909 Closner<br />

sold the San Juan Plantation, continuing<br />

his other activities in community service and<br />

land development<br />

Closner installed the county’s first telephone,<br />

which connected the plantation with his office<br />

✧<br />

Above: John Closner.<br />

Below: The sugar mill on John Closner’s<br />

San Juan Plantation. Closner began<br />

experimenting with sugarcane in 1895 and<br />

samples, some seventeen feet tall, won first<br />

prize at the Louisiana Purchase Centennial<br />

Exposition at St. Louis in 1904.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

89


✧<br />

Above: The ranch house at La Coma Ranch,<br />

bought by William F. Sprague of Rhode<br />

Island from the King Ranch in 1883.<br />

Sprague built the first cotton gin in Hidalgo<br />

County in 1898 and was one of the<br />

founders of Edinburg. La Coma is now<br />

owned by Calvin Bentsen.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: The Landrum Plantation south of<br />

San Benito was established in 1893. James<br />

Landrum built a kiln on the plantation and<br />

made the bricks for the two-story brick<br />

home. He devised a way of irrigating the<br />

land and grew cotton, vegetables, hay,<br />

and grain.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

in Hidalgo, and he provided financial backing<br />

to build the railroad spur from Harlingen<br />

west past Mission to Sam Fordyce in 1904.<br />

He also founded the town of San Juan, which<br />

was named for him, and was one of the<br />

founders of Chapin, which became Edinburg.<br />

After founding of the towns and retiring from<br />

law enforcement, he turned full-time rancher<br />

with headquarters in Brownsville, living there<br />

until 1934.<br />

LA COMA RANCH<br />

Another famous ranch in Hidalgo County<br />

is La Coma Ranch, better known as Red Gate<br />

for its colorful entrance fifteen miles north of<br />

Edinburg. It was twice owned by the King<br />

Ranch, which first sold it to William<br />

Frederick Sprague in 1883, bought it back in<br />

1919, and then sold it to Elmer and Lloyd<br />

Bentsen in 1943. Sprague, from a wealthy,<br />

influential family in Rhode Island that<br />

included governors and U.S. senators, fell in<br />

love with the Wild West atmosphere of 1880s<br />

South Texas and settled down to control land<br />

holdings of 200,000 acres, a spread onefourth<br />

the size of Rhode Island. He also fell in<br />

love with Florence Kenedy, niece of Captain<br />

Mifflin Kenedy, Richard King’s steamboating<br />

partner, and they were married in Brownsville<br />

in 1900. The bricks for their new home,<br />

which has walls three bricks thick and<br />

towering ceilings a dozen feet high, were<br />

brought to La Coma by oxcart.<br />

Sprague ranched his extensive properties,<br />

raising horses, sheep (briefly), and cattle. He<br />

also pioneered dryland cotton farming and<br />

built the county’s first cotton gin at La Coma<br />

Ranch in 1898. The cotton yield was good, but<br />

he had a problem with getting it to market. As<br />

late as 1900 he shipped one thousand bales of<br />

cotton by mule wagons to Hebbronville’s<br />

railroad in order to connect with outside<br />

buyers. A major street is named for Sprague in<br />

Edinburg, a city he helped to build.<br />

Now owned by Elmer Bentsen’s son Calvin,<br />

the ranch house has been renovated and La<br />

Coma Ranch is famous for its rich history and<br />

for the dozens of species of exotic animals that<br />

have joined domestic animals on the ranch.<br />

THE LANDRUM PLANTATION<br />

Another notable Cameron County place<br />

was the Landrum Plantation, El Rancho<br />

Ciprés, south of San Benito. After the U.S.-<br />

Mexican War ended, among those who settled<br />

in Brownsville was Judge Stephen Powers, an<br />

attorney who specialized in land matters. He<br />

was employed by descendants of brothers<br />

Eugenio and Bartolo Fernández, Spanish<br />

noblemen who had been awarded the<br />

seventy-five-thousand-acre Concepción de<br />

Carricitos grant by Spain in 1793, to confirm<br />

their title. Judge Powers secured confirmation<br />

of the title from the Texas Supreme Court and<br />

the legislature, and received about one-half of<br />

the grant for his services. At that time the land<br />

was worth about ten cents an acre.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

90


Powers’ daughter Frances married James L.<br />

Landrum in 1893 and went to live on the ranch<br />

in a rambling seven-room adobe dwelling.<br />

They immediately started to make plans for the<br />

fine two-story brick home that still stands.<br />

Landrum built a kiln on the plantation and<br />

made the bricks for the house. All the lumber<br />

used inside and out was cypress shipped by<br />

boat from New Orleans and landed at the<br />

plantation river dock behind the house.<br />

Meantime, in order to be able to have<br />

income off the land, he planted crops and<br />

devised a way of irrigating the land. He built<br />

cypress-wood flumes and a crosswise canvas<br />

device with a canvas sail. With a little wind and<br />

some priming, the water flowed into the small<br />

ditches he had dug. Thus his early crops of<br />

cotton, vegetables and hay were grown; later he<br />

also raised grain. Landrum contributed much<br />

to progress with his plantation.<br />

Years later, Colonel Sam Robertson, founder<br />

of San Benito, told about visiting the Landrums:<br />

In 1904 it was my good fortune and<br />

privilege to be a guest at the Landrum home<br />

on the Military Road. This was the most<br />

delightful, hospitable home it was ever my<br />

privilege to enter.<br />

In forty years he never had a lock on his<br />

home or storehouse. No traveler ever passed<br />

Rancho Cypress who was not invited to rest,<br />

feed his horse in the corral, and dine with the<br />

family. There were flowers, good music,<br />

splendid food, soft beds, and a royal welcome<br />

for all.<br />

✧<br />

Some forty miles from Ciudad Mante in<br />

southern Tamaulipas are the ruins of<br />

Castillo de la Nueva Apolonia, of which a<br />

portion is shown (above). The original<br />

hacienda built during Spanish Colonial<br />

times was greatly enlarged and decorated<br />

during the Díaz years by its wealthy owner<br />

from Spain. The huge castle has long been<br />

abandoned. Now a cactus grows from one of<br />

the turrets (left).<br />

These are just a few of the large ranches<br />

that were active at the end of the nineteenth<br />

century, but great changes would soon transform<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

MEXICO EXPLODES IN<br />

REVOLUTION<br />

In 1900 the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> region was still a<br />

wind-swept, border frontier. Its ranching<br />

economy and its society of Hispanic and non-<br />

Hispanic people lived in relative peace and<br />

tolerance. Some two hundred miles of arid<br />

country to the north, south and west reinforced<br />

the centuries-old isolation of this<br />

region. Within two decades, however, the<br />

people and their way of life would be changed<br />

forever. On the U.S. side, this change would<br />

come with the advent of the railroads, irrigation<br />

of the land, and Anglo-American<br />

colonists from the North. On the Mexican<br />

side, the change would come through a tenyear<br />

revolution.<br />

Though relations between the U.S. and<br />

Mexico had been stable under the Díaz regime,<br />

thirty-six years of his iron-fisted rule ended in<br />

the revolution of 1910, which disrupted the<br />

country until 1920. While many grievances<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

91


helped ignite the Mexican Revolution, the key<br />

factor was land. By 1910, ninety percent of the<br />

country’s land and resources was controlled by<br />

some three percent of the people—Mexican<br />

aristocrats and, particularly, foreigners. Threefourths<br />

of the population were rural peasants—<br />

Indians and mestizos, looked upon as subhuman<br />

by many in the ruling class. Most were<br />

bound to plantations or haciendas, where they<br />

worked in perpetual, inherited debt.<br />

The feudal-like estates ranged in size from<br />

20,000 to over 250,000 acres. Activities included<br />

agriculture, mining, timber, and livestock. The<br />

growth of these plantations deprived thousands<br />

of peasant farmers of their ancestral lands. Most<br />

became hacienda laborers, earning very low<br />

wages. Others, deprived of their land and way of<br />

life, drifted to cities in search of work.<br />

Similarly, many villages lost their age-old<br />

public lands or ejidos, previously set aside for<br />

communal farming and grazing, to the<br />

haciendas. Thus, over one-half of Mexico’s<br />

rural populace became displaced, trapped in<br />

uneducated poverty at the bottom of the<br />

country’s economic and social ladder. By<br />

1910, their anger was ready to erupt like a<br />

volcano, and from their ranks would come the<br />

bulk of the revolutionary armies.<br />

In 1910 years of rumblings and mounting<br />

anger boiled over. Francisco Madero, a<br />

northern idealist, led a successful grass-roots<br />

movement against the government. Díaz was<br />

exiled, and Madero became president in 1911.<br />

The revolution seemed over. But later, a general<br />

named Victoriano Huerta, a Díaz supporter,<br />

staged a counter-revolt and installed himself as<br />

dictator. Madero was shot—at the order, many<br />

believed, of Huerta himself. Fearing a return to<br />

the old regime, Mexicans began to rally behind<br />

“strong men” who opposed Huerta. A rebellion<br />

against him in early 1913 marked the<br />

beginning of civil war.<br />

Many leaders rose and fell during the<br />

revolution, but four principal figures emerged to<br />

dominate it. They were: Venustiano Carranza,<br />

Francisco Villa, Emiliano Zapata, and Álvaro<br />

Obregón. Their roots lay in different regions,<br />

and a power struggle ensued. Marching on<br />

Mexico City in mid-1914, they drove Huerta<br />

out. Carranza, by general agreement, became<br />

“First Chief”—in effect, the president. But his<br />

administration proved unable to deliver its<br />

promises of reform.<br />

Bloody civil warfare wracked Mexico for<br />

the rest of the decade to 1920. The population<br />

was decimated; the area was devastated.<br />

✧<br />

This poster was part of the Pancho Villa<br />

exhibit at the Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Museum in 1999.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

92


Most fighting occurred in the north, including<br />

the border regions. Battles in border cities sent<br />

bullets and shells flying into Brownsville, El<br />

Paso, and other places. The turmoil in the far<br />

northeast also unleashed the “bandit raids” into<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, putting further strain on<br />

relations with the United States.<br />

Basically, there were three types of bandits.<br />

First, there were Mexicans who had been<br />

forced from their homes by the revolution,<br />

were penniless and homeless, and stole simply<br />

to stay alive, killing only when necessary.<br />

Second were those who took part in savage<br />

bandit raids to avenge private grudges, more<br />

interested in killing than stealing. The third<br />

category of bandits, unlike the others, were<br />

well organized and well armed, some with<br />

German rifles and ammunition. Some of the<br />

attacks were said to be part of a German plot<br />

to incite a war between Mexico and the United<br />

States to keep American forces from entering<br />

the war in Europe.<br />

Meanwhile, the Wilson administration,<br />

through diplomacy, intrigue, and arms sales,<br />

sought to influence the revolution’s outcome.<br />

The idealistic President Wilson, determined to<br />

see democracy established in Mexico, had<br />

opposed Huerta, and for a time backed Villa as<br />

the likely winner. But after several disastrous<br />

defeats, “Pancho” no longer seemed invincible,<br />

and U.S. support swung cautiously to<br />

Carranza. An angry Villa then attacked<br />

Columbus, New Mexico. His raid in March<br />

1916 prompted the U.S. Army’s “Punitive<br />

Expedition” under General John J. Pershing,<br />

with the aim of dispersing Villa’s forces.<br />

Tension mounted between Washington<br />

and Mexico City. War seemed possible, and by<br />

mid-1916, thousands of Army and state<br />

troops were sent to protect the border and to<br />

be available if it became necessary to invade<br />

Mexico. But, slowly, Carranza and Obregón<br />

gained control, and by early 1917 tensions<br />

eased. When Obregón became president in<br />

1920, the civil warfare largely ended, and<br />

Mexico began to stabilize.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Four future military geniuses met<br />

under friendly circumstances in El Paso in<br />

1914: From left, Alvaro Obregón, who<br />

defeated Villa and became president of<br />

Mexico in 1920; Pancho Villa, leader of the<br />

feared division of the North; John “Black<br />

Jack” Pershing, sent to the border to<br />

disperse Villa’s forces in 1916 and who later<br />

became Commanding General of the<br />

American Expeditionary Forces in France in<br />

World War I 1917-1918, and Pershing’s<br />

aide, a very young George “Blood and Guts”<br />

Patton, who led the Third Army in World<br />

War II, 1941-1945.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Below: The Mexican bridge guard at the<br />

Brownsville-Matamoros Bridge in 1916.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER V<br />

93


✧<br />

Above: Troops were stationed over the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

from Mission to Brownsville. Shown in<br />

review are thirteen thousand troops<br />

stationed at Camp Llano <strong>Grande</strong> in 1916<br />

on the site now occupied by the Texas A&M<br />

Research Center between Mercedes and<br />

Weslaco. National Guard units from<br />

Indiana, Nebraska, Minnesota, and North<br />

Dakota were among those at the camp.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Below: The hospital at Camp Llano <strong>Grande</strong><br />

was converted from the former Casa Blanca<br />

Hotel built to house potential buyers of<br />

farmland. About 30 Red Cross nurses from<br />

the Midwest treated the soldiers. Heat,<br />

insects, contaminated water, and diseases<br />

such as pneumonia and measles caused<br />

much illness among the guardsmen.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

The years-long process of implementing the<br />

revolution’s reforms began a process that many<br />

in Mexico feel still goes on today. The reforms<br />

were spelled out in the new Constitution<br />

adopted in February 1917 by a constitutional<br />

convention that included representatives of all<br />

major revolutionary factions. It called for<br />

protection of men and women in the labor<br />

force; improved education, the creation of<br />

small land-holdings, thus breaking up the<br />

large haciendas; placing of all waters, rivers,<br />

lakes, and subsoil resources, including<br />

petroleum, under national control, and<br />

imposing restrictions on foreign economic<br />

operations in the country.<br />

Since 1920 disputes between the two<br />

countries have been approached through<br />

diplomatic channels rather than military<br />

intervention. As the new millennium begins,<br />

Mexico and the United States are vitally<br />

important friends and trading partners.<br />

Meanwhile, on the U.S. side the railroads<br />

had finally come, massive irrigation systems<br />

were being established, and land developers<br />

had discovered a new frontier they called the<br />

“Magic <strong>Valley</strong> of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

94


THE TWENTIETH CENTURY DAWNS<br />

AT LAST! CONNECTED BY RAIL TO THE WORLD<br />

When the twentieth century dawned on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, it was still cut off from the rest<br />

of Texas and the world.<br />

From 1850 to 1900, numerous attempts were made to construct a railroad to connect the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

to Corpus Christi and/or San Antonio. Firms were chartered, investors found, and some lines<br />

begun with great promise. Then the money would run out. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad Company did<br />

succeed in building a narrow gauge road twenty-two miles from Brownsville to Port Isabel in 1872,<br />

which moved freight back and forth from Brazos Santiago to Brownsville. However, all attempts to<br />

build a railroad to connect the <strong>Valley</strong> with the outside world had failed.<br />

Brownsville was sitting isolated near the mouth of the river. Goods reached the city by sea or<br />

by overland hauling. Passengers bound for other parts of the state were ferried across the river to<br />

Matamoros, took the Mexican National Railway up the river to Laredo, then crossed back into<br />

Texas to take another train.<br />

Though some railroad people were not convinced there was a profit to be made in running a line<br />

across the Wild Horse Desert, a railroad builder named Uriah Lott finally got things moving. He had<br />

succeeded in building a line from Corpus Christi to Laredo in 1876 after raising money from Richard<br />

King, Mifflin Kenedy, and many others for the necessary investment. In 1899 he came up with a new plan<br />

to bring a railroad into the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. He got the attention of B. F. Yoakum, chairman of the board<br />

of the Rock Island-Frisco Lines. Yoakum liked the fact that Lott was working to secure a land bonus of<br />

more than 100,000 acres, free right-of-way and terminal grounds, plus at least $75,000 in cash.<br />

✧<br />

Hundreds of men were employed to lay<br />

railroad tracks to Brownsville, then west<br />

from Harlingen to Sam Fordyce. The San<br />

Juan to Edinburg line came a few years<br />

later after Edinburg was established as the<br />

Hidalgo County seat.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VI<br />

95


✧<br />

The first train arrived in Brownsville on July<br />

4, 1904, in a heavy rain and was met with<br />

great fanfare, floats, banners, and fireworks<br />

as every conveyance in town brought<br />

residents to greet the railroad officials.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

Lots of money was needed to build<br />

railroads, and Lott was clever at coaxing<br />

money out of people’s pockets for his ventures.<br />

He was full of vigor and enthusiasm for the<br />

project. Area ranchers and other citizens of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> were anxious to help, providing the<br />

land and cash required. Lott had to go to St.<br />

Louis for financial backing, as his eastern<br />

connections were not interested in the far-off<br />

tip of Texas. On January 12, 1903, a state<br />

charter was issued to the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad to construct<br />

a rail line from Sinton to Brownsville.<br />

The incorporators included Robert Driscoll,<br />

Sr., Robert Driscoll, Jr., Robert J. Kleberg,<br />

Caesar Kleberg, A. E. Spohn, Richard King II,<br />

John G. Kenedy, James B. Wells, Francisco<br />

Yturria, John B. Armstrong, and Uriah Lott as<br />

president. A contract was signed with the<br />

Johnson Brothers of St. Elmo, Illinois, successful<br />

railroad builders, on July 1, 1903. The cost<br />

was set at $12,500 per mile. Additional<br />

expenses of $2,000 per mile would go to pay<br />

for the line’s equipment, which included locomotives<br />

as well as freight and passenger cars.<br />

Work began on July 28, 1903, near<br />

Robstown, named for Robert Driscoll, owner of<br />

the Driscoll Ranch. Sam A. Robertson, a civil<br />

engineer from Missouri who was known for<br />

taking on dangerous assignments and<br />

completing them, was given the subcontract for<br />

laying the track, surfacing, and building the<br />

trestle bridges. Robertson was interested in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> beyond his work on the railroad. He was<br />

a strong believer in the possibilities of irrigation,<br />

and he saw an opportunity to look for land that<br />

could be purchased to raise crops.<br />

Robertson formed the Southern Contracting<br />

Company and employed able assistants. His<br />

crew of four hundred men worked with<br />

astonishing speed. Since he was operating on<br />

borrowed money, he had to buy the cheapest<br />

work locomotives he could get. This explains<br />

why two wrecks on the same day in 1904<br />

nearly brought his struggle to build the railroad<br />

to an abrupt end.<br />

The first train wreck dumped nine cars of<br />

bridge timbers and tie rails in the bottom of a<br />

creek bed at Santa Gertrudis. The sixteen-car<br />

train was hauling supplies to his camp at the<br />

end of the line. Robertson received word<br />

through a telephone call to the Kleberg Ranch<br />

from Corpus Christi and immediately started<br />

north to the wreck scene with Engine Four,<br />

accompanied by engineer F. P. Read. Near<br />

Kingsville their engine ran into a cocked<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

96


switch which derailed the engine, tender and<br />

two cars and catapulted Robertson to the<br />

ground with a compound leg fracture and<br />

several broken ribs.<br />

Robertson’s physical condition was bad,<br />

but his financial condition was worse. Doctors<br />

said he couldn’t work for months, but after a<br />

few days in a Corpus Christi hospital he was<br />

back, overseeing the job as he lay on a<br />

stretcher on a moving flatcar. He spent<br />

months on crutches and soon became expert<br />

in their use. He was able to catch a train<br />

moving eight to ten miles an hour and, once<br />

aboard, he would hop from car to car. He<br />

trained his white cow pony to lie down so he<br />

could mount and fasten his crutches to the<br />

saddlehorn. Robertson was still on crutches<br />

when the railroad was completed.<br />

The line reached the area of Raymondville<br />

on April 3, 1904. The tracks moved toward<br />

what would become Harlingen, then San<br />

Benito as the workers continued toward<br />

Brownsville.<br />

The first train, with many dignitaries and<br />

railroad officials, reached Brownsville on July<br />

4, 1904. It arrived during a heavy rain after an<br />

eleven hour and forty minute run from<br />

Corpus Christi, and virtually the whole town<br />

turned out for the occasion. Every conveyance<br />

in town came out through the mud and rain<br />

with floats, banners and fireworks to meet the<br />

train and escort Lott and the visitors into<br />

town. On that day, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

joined the world!<br />

Meanwhile, work had begun on the<br />

extension westward through Mission to Sam<br />

Fordyce, named for the chairman of the<br />

executive committee of the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad. It moved<br />

across land that would later be developed as<br />

townsites. It reached what is now Mission in<br />

August 1904, and then Sam Fordyce on<br />

December 19, 1904. Now little more than a<br />

signpost on busy U.S. 83, Sam Fordyce began<br />

with great fanfare. There were several brick<br />

business buildings, a hotel and post office,<br />

but it failed to develop as a town.<br />

The railroad ended at Sam Fordyce until<br />

1925 when construction was resumed to <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City, arriving there in August of 1925<br />

about the same time a state highway was<br />

completed. An excursion train packed with<br />

cheering, yelling passengers moved from<br />

Brownsville through Sam Fordyce and on to<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, where a huge celebration<br />

was held to welcome the long-awaited<br />

railroad and highway.<br />

The railroad started a chain reaction that<br />

brought the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> to the attention<br />

of investors, land developers, and others who<br />

✧<br />

The Southern Pacific Railroad arrived in<br />

Brownsville in October 1927, and its<br />

handsome station was a center of activity<br />

until service was discontinued and it fell<br />

into disrepair.<br />

CHAPTER VI<br />

97


✧<br />

With the support of the Brownsville<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Association and others, the<br />

Southern Pacific Railroad Station was<br />

carefully renovated in the 1980s and<br />

converted into the excellent <strong>Historic</strong><br />

Brownsville Museum.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

98<br />

wanted to explore the nation’s last frontier.<br />

Dozens of new communities sprang up all<br />

along its route.<br />

Other branch lines were built, including<br />

what became known as the “Spiderweb” line<br />

to connect the smaller communities with the<br />

main line, until about 210 miles of railroad<br />

tracks were in service. There were no farm to<br />

market roads in the early days, so the<br />

railroads were essential to haul the everincreasing<br />

loads of produce out of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

All of the various branch lines, including the<br />

St. Louis, Brownsville, and Mexico, were<br />

absorbed by the Missouri Pacific System in 1925.<br />

The other major line to build into the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> was the Southern Pacific, which had<br />

first eyed the territory before Yoakum and<br />

Lott started their construction. They began<br />

work south out of Alice in September of 1903,<br />

but ran into problems with the Texas Railroad<br />

Commission and stopped construction at<br />

Falfurrias. They took no further action until<br />

May 1925, when they received permission to<br />

extend their railroad into the <strong>Valley</strong>. The line<br />

reached Edinburg on January 11, 1927,<br />

McAllen on January 22, Harlingen on<br />

February 8 via a route along present state<br />

highway 107, and arrived in Brownsville on<br />

October 22, 1927.<br />

An estimated four hundred miles of rail<br />

lines crisscrossed the <strong>Valley</strong> during their<br />

heyday. As cities developed, a network of<br />

paved highways followed to accommodate the<br />

increasing number of private automobiles. By<br />

the 1960s, trucks were hauling much of the<br />

produce and the use of rail freight declined.<br />

Passenger service was discontinued in the<br />

1960s, and train depots were closed.<br />

Some of those beautiful railroad depots are<br />

now restored for other uses. The <strong>Historic</strong><br />

Brownsville Museum occupies the renovated<br />

Southern Pacific depot in Brownsville, and in<br />

Edinburg the Chamber of Commerce and<br />

Economic Development Corporation have<br />

found a home in the carefully restored<br />

Southern Pacific Depot. In McAllen the law<br />

firm of Cardenas, Whitis & Stephen restored<br />

the old Southern Pacific Depot for their offices.<br />

The Union Pacific Railroad acquired both<br />

the Missouri Pacific and Southern Pacific lines<br />

and now serves the railroad needs of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> with service to Mexico through<br />

Brownsville. Rail service often takes longer<br />

than trucks but is cheaper, and is seeing a<br />

resurgence, largely due to the North American<br />

Free Trade Agreement. The <strong>Valley</strong>-owned<br />

Border Pacific Railroad provides shuttle service<br />

at the rail yards and freight service from<br />

Mission to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City.<br />

IRRIGATION COLORS<br />

THE VALLEY GREEN<br />

The prospect of fast transportation to<br />

markets by railroad stimulated great interest in<br />

entrepreneurs from other parts of Texas and the


United States. They could envision year-round<br />

agricultural production in the subtropical<br />

climate, since the river water was available for<br />

irrigation. Once an irrigation system was<br />

assured, the land could be sold in small blocks<br />

to prospective growers at a great profit.<br />

The land was flat and sloped gently to the<br />

northeast away from the river. The riverbanks<br />

were at a higher elevation than the land and,<br />

once the water was pumped out of the river, it<br />

could be distributed by gravity through open<br />

canals to the point of use. Some of the terrain<br />

would require a second pumping of the water<br />

about ten miles north of the river for delivery<br />

of the water to the outermost limits of the area.<br />

Landowners along the river readily<br />

irrigated their fields using private pumps, but<br />

it took huge investments and complex<br />

systems of pumping stations and canals to<br />

move the water inland.<br />

Beginning in 1904, irrigation companies<br />

were formed by land developers. Generally,<br />

investors purchased a large tract of land with<br />

river frontage. Water filings were made in the<br />

county clerk’s office, an engineer was employed,<br />

and the canals, laterals and pumping plants<br />

were constructed. The cost of the construction<br />

and operation of these irrigation systems was<br />

paid by the developers through the sale of land<br />

and a charge for delivering water to the land.<br />

The first irrigation system for community use<br />

was built by Donna pioneers A. F. Hester and<br />

T. J. Hooks through their La Blanca Agricultural<br />

Company. They first farmed by the river and<br />

then moved to higher land around Donna.<br />

The largest irrigation district was the<br />

American <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Land and Irrigation<br />

Company formed in 1905 by a group of St.<br />

Louis investors for development of the<br />

“barren <strong>Valley</strong> land” to turn the area into one<br />

productive in sugarcane, winter vegetables<br />

and other crops. While building the plant<br />

they ran into a problem.<br />

The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo that<br />

ended the U.S.-Mexican War (1846-48)<br />

designated the main channel of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

as the U.S.-Mexico boundary. Disputes arising<br />

from frequent changes in the river’s course led<br />

to the Treaty of 1884, which recognized only<br />

those river diversions resulting from natural<br />

occurrences. The International Boundary and<br />

Water Commission was established in 1889 to<br />

administer the Treaty of 1884.<br />

When the river started to change its course<br />

in 1906, the irrigation company gave nature a<br />

hand by digging their own cutoff to make sure<br />

the river would continue to flow by the<br />

pumping station. This left a 413-acre banco<br />

called El Horcón (crooked stick). Had this<br />

been a natural cutoff, the tract would have<br />

gone to Mexico. But since it was not a natural<br />

flow, it was U.S. land. Although still U.S.<br />

territory, the tract and the popular gambling<br />

and resort community of <strong>Rio</strong> Rico, which<br />

flourished there during the 1920s and 1930s,<br />

became increasingly subject to Mexican<br />

administration and jurisdiction.<br />

After the U.S. granted Mexico territorial<br />

rights over El Horcón Tract and <strong>Rio</strong> Rico in<br />

1970, a native of <strong>Rio</strong> Rico sued the U.S.<br />

government to guarantee his U.S. citizenship.<br />

This lawsuit began an eight-year legal battle that<br />

✧<br />

Above: Water in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was<br />

plentiful when the developers began to build<br />

the early irrigation systems. The land was<br />

flat and sloped gently to the northeast away<br />

from the river, allowing water to flow by<br />

gravity through open canals to the point<br />

of use.<br />

Below: In 1906 the river started to change<br />

its channel south of Mercedes and cut off a<br />

loop on which the American Land and<br />

Irrigation Company was building a large<br />

pumping station south of Mercedes. They<br />

gave nature a hand by digging their own<br />

cutoff to make sure the river would continue<br />

to flow by the pumping station.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VI<br />

99


✧<br />

Above: Workers prepare to deliver water to<br />

a field being readied for planting around<br />

1980. Research is ongoing to find ways to<br />

stretch water supplies to meet farm and<br />

domestic needs.<br />

Below: The complexity of irrigation systems<br />

and the size of the huge pumps required to<br />

deliver water from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> to the<br />

newly cleared farms can be seen in the<br />

restored Hidalgo Pumphouse Heritage and<br />

Discovery Park.<br />

COURTESY OF CHUCK SNYDER.<br />

eventually led to U.S. citizenship for about two<br />

hundred people born in <strong>Rio</strong> Rico prior to 1970.<br />

Meanwhile, the Mercedes pumping station<br />

was completed and operated effectively,<br />

channeling water to area farms. Purchased by<br />

farmers served by the system in 1929, it still<br />

operates from its longtime Mercedes<br />

headquarters as Hidalgo and Cameron County<br />

Water Control and Improvement District No. 9.<br />

It serves seventy-two thousand acres and<br />

provides the irrigation and domestic needs of<br />

the Mercedes-Weslaco area.<br />

Other irrigation systems were established up<br />

and down the river. Some developers soon<br />

encountered financial difficulties, and their<br />

irrigation systems were not properly maintained.<br />

To secure an adequate supply of water, farmers<br />

organized irrigation districts and purchased the<br />

systems from the developers. By 1920 only four<br />

privately owned systems remained.<br />

Today, the irrigated lands of the <strong>Valley</strong> are<br />

divided into local water districts, each with taxing<br />

authority and administered by boards of<br />

directors with managers and necessary<br />

employees at convenient locations. In 2000<br />

there were twenty-six water districts in the four<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> counties. Among the staff members are<br />

“ditch riders” who check the canals and open<br />

“gates” to let water into the distribution system<br />

for individual farmers.<br />

The system of irrigation and allocation of<br />

the water changed greatly over the years,<br />

especially after Falcon Dam was completed in<br />

1953 and Amistad Dam upriver several years<br />

later. A watermaster was established by the<br />

Texas Water Rights Commission in 1971 after<br />

many years of litigation of water rights.<br />

Headquartered in Harlingen, the watermaster<br />

has overall jurisdiction over the water<br />

allocated to the U.S. from Falcon and Amistad<br />

Dams and works with each of the water<br />

districts to see that supplies are available as<br />

needed. Landowners pay a tax per acre for<br />

water rights, plus a fixed amount per acre-foot<br />

when irrigation water is used. An acre-foot is<br />

the quantity of water that covers an area of<br />

one acre one foot deep.<br />

Approximately 1.4 million acres of land are<br />

being farmed in the <strong>Valley</strong>, about half of which<br />

has irrigation rights. Through the years the<br />

irrigation districts have changed many canals to<br />

either concrete lined or concrete pipes<br />

underground. Though land was uneven in the<br />

early days, most land has now been leveled with<br />

a “fall” of an inch per one hundred feet to aid<br />

the water flow. New methods of irrigation are<br />

constantly being studied and implemented<br />

where they would conserve water. The water<br />

supply will continue to be one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

major concerns as more and more demands are<br />

made on the waters of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> for<br />

irrigation and domestic use by both the U.S.<br />

and Mexico.<br />

Preserving the history of irrigation in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> is the Hidalgo Pumphouse Heritage and<br />

Discovery Park near the river at Hidalgo.<br />

Carefully restored and opened as an interactive<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

100


museum in April 1999, the pumphouse was<br />

built in 1909 by the Louisiana-<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Canal Company to irrigate forty thousand acres.<br />

The pumphouse, initially steam-powered by<br />

mesquite wood from the newly cleared land, is<br />

typical of about thirty pumping stations in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> whose waters transformed the arid<br />

territory to a garden paradise.<br />

LAND DEVELOPERS<br />

SPREAD THE WORD<br />

With the railroad in operation and irrigation<br />

a reality, the <strong>Valley</strong> was ready for its second<br />

major colonization, which lasted about two<br />

decades until around 1930. A pattern soon<br />

developed that was followed in varying degrees.<br />

The developer was a man of great vision and<br />

optimism, sold on the land and its possibilities,<br />

and with his eye on the profits that could be<br />

made from the virgin soil. He purchased land at<br />

the going price, around one to three dollars per<br />

acre, usually in plots running into thousands of<br />

acres. After clearing the native brush he built<br />

irrigation systems with the help of wellqualified<br />

engineers and then planted<br />

“showplace” plots of farm crops and later of<br />

citrus groves. Some built large guesthouses for<br />

the land parties they would bring to the area.<br />

Salesmen would be dispatched over the<br />

nation, especially the farming areas and towns<br />

of the North and Midwest, and prospective<br />

buyers were brought in by excursion trains. On<br />

the southward trip, the salesman’s enthusiastic<br />

forecasts of the glowing future helped to<br />

further prepare the traveler-prospects for<br />

signatures on land contracts. Then, on arrival,<br />

the “Homeseekers” as they were called, found<br />

mild, sunny winters with fields of fresh<br />

vegetables growing, and later the intoxicating<br />

scents of citrus blossoms.<br />

After roads were built, a caravan of luxurytype<br />

automobiles greeted the visitors when the<br />

train arrived at its <strong>Valley</strong> destination. Usually,<br />

the drivers were prosperous farmers who had<br />

come earlier on similar trips and now were<br />

ready to share the blessings of their new life.<br />

Busy days followed as the prospects were<br />

driven to see thriving farms where beautiful<br />

new homes were further evidence of success.<br />

The developers were careful that their<br />

prospects saw only the successful examples,<br />

and there are many tales of how they kept<br />

prospective buyers from seeing lands that were<br />

temporarily flooded or that could discourage<br />

prospective buyers.<br />

These prospects were usually successful<br />

farmers and others who wanted to start a new<br />

life in a new frontier, educated for their time<br />

and with enough money to invest in the land,<br />

much of it still in brush. Though many of the<br />

homeseekers experienced great hardships in<br />

their early years, for the most part the new<br />

farmers did prosper. Demands for their<br />

✧<br />

A trainload of homeseekers is met by an<br />

automobile caravan for a tour of the land<br />

that the developer has for sale. This tactic<br />

was repeated throughout the <strong>Valley</strong> as<br />

new communities were established along<br />

the railroad.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VI<br />

101


✧<br />

Above: After citrus orchards became<br />

successful in the 1920s, homeseekers would<br />

be taken to a producing orchard and told<br />

of the money-making possibilities that<br />

awaited them.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY HISTORICAL<br />

COMMISSION ARCHIVES.<br />

Right: Lillian Weems Baldridge arrived at<br />

Combes in 1905 as a teenager with her<br />

engineer father before the clearing began.<br />

She taught school, observed, and wrote<br />

about the <strong>Valley</strong>'s metamorphosis with<br />

affection and humor for seven decades.<br />

Excerpts from her writings that were<br />

published in the <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber’s Tip-O-<br />

Texan magazine in the late 1960s and early<br />

1970s enliven this book.<br />

agricultural products grew as the nation’s<br />

economy and population grew. As each tract of<br />

land was cleared and settled, nearby<br />

communities sprang up to provide schools,<br />

churches, trade, and local governments.<br />

One of the engineers who worked on<br />

building canals was W. Z. Weems, who settled<br />

in Combes in 1905. His daughter, educatorwriter<br />

Lillian Weems Baldridge, told about<br />

those early days in October 1967 in “Before the<br />

Clearing Began” in the Tip-O-Texan magazine:<br />

It was soon after the railroad came that my<br />

mother and dad joined the early ‘Homeseekers’<br />

to settle near Combes, my sister, brother and I,<br />

all lively teenagers, with them.<br />

Driving up the <strong>Valley</strong> to Edinburg this past<br />

summer in an air-conditioned car over a<br />

beautiful network of highways, landscaped<br />

with stately palms, bougainvillea, oleander,<br />

bananas and other tropical flowers, the citrus<br />

orchards and cotton fields, grain field after<br />

grain field, made me think of the land before<br />

the clearing began.<br />

There was nothing but brush, senderos, and<br />

later one narrow road cut through the deep<br />

sand, with pockets far apart for a passing car or<br />

cart to draw into while the other fellow passed.<br />

It was hard labor and the sweat of the brow<br />

that made the dreams come true. At night the<br />

camps of the Mexican clearers reminded one of<br />

a scene from some opera with gypsy camps.<br />

Burning trees, dogs barking, women cooking,<br />

sending up odors of boiling coffee, tortillas and<br />

beans; songs, twanging guitars and maybe an<br />

accordion filled the air. Looking at the reddened<br />

skies we could tell when a new townsite<br />

or homesite was being cleared, and many times<br />

we would turn our horses towards the new<br />

development. It was a full and satisfying life.<br />

Our Anglo pioneers brought with them their<br />

axe, hoes, adze and other implements. Here<br />

were found the hacha, asadón, talache, and<br />

ever-useful machete, that wicked-looking cane<br />

knife that serves so many purposes even today.<br />

The Homeseekers who settled among us<br />

are now welcoming our thousands of winter<br />

visitors. Many of them are buying homes and<br />

learning to enjoy the relaxed way of life of our<br />

sunny climate. Sure, the rains come…but the<br />

sun always returns, the palms sway in our<br />

Gulf breezes and, even as we reminisce, we’re<br />

glad so many now share our Magic Land.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

102


CITIES GROW ALONG THE RAILROAD<br />

RAYMONDVILLE & NEARBY TOWNS<br />

The completion of the railroad meant the establishment of new towns, and no time was lost in<br />

preparing townsites and railroad stations for the long-awaited trains. On April 3, 1904, the rails<br />

completed their long stretch through the King Ranch to what would become Raymondville in the<br />

present Willacy County.<br />

Edward B. Raymond was one of those already on the scene when the railroads brought<br />

opportunities for new development. Raised in Austin, he became acquainted in the early 1870s with<br />

the ranching people of the <strong>Valley</strong> when he drove cattle to market in Dodge City, Kansas. He was<br />

broke and disillusioned when he met L. H. McNelly, the famous Texas Ranger. McNelly was<br />

instrumental in getting Raymond hired by Captain Richard King to open the El Sauz division of the<br />

King Ranch, which he managed for thirty-seven years. A small community of ranch employees<br />

developed at El Sauz ranch headquarters where Raymond served as postmaster and telegraph<br />

operator. The little settlement also had a school and commissary.<br />

Raymond acquired about twenty-four thousand acres of his own, which he called Las Majadas<br />

(Sheepfold) Ranch, on which he raised cattle and sheep and experimented with all types of<br />

vegetables and oranges. Joining other ranchers in deeding right of way for the railway, he also<br />

donated a station site near his ranch. Railway officials named the station Raymondville in his honor.<br />

He organized the Raymondville Town and Improvement Company in 1904 and lost no time in<br />

getting the new townsite platted. He also established the area’s first cotton gin in 1904, became<br />

president of the Raymondville State Bank in 1907, and set up a telephone exchange.<br />

The farming was good and the area prospered as families moved down to clear the land and<br />

establish homes. Raymondville was incorporated in 1912, but it was not until 1921 that what is<br />

✧<br />

A road grader is shown in front of the<br />

Raymondville railroad station in the town’s<br />

early days. At the right is the Davidson<br />

(later named Lundberg) Hotel, completed in<br />

1907, which soon became the center of the<br />

area’s social life.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HARDING.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

103


✧<br />

Above: Edward B. Raymond, for whom<br />

Raymondville was named.<br />

Below: The Willacy County Courthouse<br />

was completed in 1922 and is still in use.<br />

Citizens gather in front of the Veterans<br />

Memorial shown in the foreground for July<br />

Fourth and Memorial Day services.<br />

now Willacy County was formed from parts of<br />

Cameron and Hidalgo Counties, and<br />

Raymondville was named county seat. During<br />

the depression, Raymondville was the only<br />

town in the <strong>Valley</strong> with no bank failures, with<br />

two banks operating since 1925, when the<br />

First National Bank opened its doors.<br />

When the old Davidson Hotel (later the<br />

Lundberg Hotel) was completed in 1907, a twoand-a-half-story<br />

building with eighteen rooms,<br />

fancy Oriental rugs, and brass beds, it was called<br />

an “oasis of luxury in a desert of brush,” and<br />

soon became the center of the area’s social life.<br />

The Willacy County Courthouse, completed<br />

in 1922, is still in use, remodeled and airconditioned.<br />

The Reber Memorial Library was<br />

built in 1951 as a gift to the people of Willacy<br />

County from the Reber family, John O. and his<br />

sisters, Winnie and Lou Emma Reber, who<br />

came in 1914 from Illinois.<br />

Raymondville, the center of a large farm<br />

and ranching area, is the gateway to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> from the north on Highway 77.<br />

Its citizens are proud of their city today and<br />

their heritage, which is preserved in the<br />

Raymondville <strong>Historic</strong>al Center, housed in the<br />

old red brick high school built in 1924.<br />

“When they were going to tear the old<br />

school down in 1967, we begged them to let<br />

us make it a museum,” said Stanley<br />

Addington, a member of the old school’s first<br />

graduating class, who worked with others to<br />

establish the center. It opened in 1969, and he<br />

served as its volunteer curator and<br />

enthusiastic supporter for the rest of his life.<br />

W. A. Harding and A. A. Lindahl organized<br />

the Harding-Lindahl Land Company and sold<br />

land near Raymondville. Later the company<br />

cleared and sold land in the Las Mesteñas<br />

tract west of Raymondville. These companies<br />

brought excursion parties from other states,<br />

housing their guests at the Delta Orchard<br />

Clubhouse located at the reservoir that is now<br />

called Delta Lake.<br />

Other Willacy County townsites were<br />

platted. San Perlita was developed by Charles R.<br />

Johnson, taking in Santa Margarita, an earlier<br />

community. Willamar was named for William<br />

A. Harding and S. Lamar Gill, developers. New<br />

towns established later on the Edinburg rail<br />

extension were Lasara, named for Mrs. W. A.<br />

Harding (Laura) and Mrs. Lamar Gill (Sarah);<br />

and Hargill for both Harding and Gill. The<br />

community named for the Hardings’ son, Rollo,<br />

was later renamed Monte Alto.<br />

After Raymondville, the next railroad stop<br />

was Lyford, named for William Lyford,<br />

general counsel of the Chicago and Illinois<br />

Railroad. The new town of Lyford had the<br />

honor of receiving the first commercial load of<br />

freight run on the St. Louis, Brownsville and<br />

Mexico line—sugar mill machinery for John<br />

Closner’s mill on the San Juan Plantation. The<br />

machinery was hauled the remainder of the<br />

distance in wagons drawn by oxen.<br />

The town of Stillman, named for Charles<br />

Stillman, founder of Brownsville, was<br />

launched in April 1904. Its name was later<br />

changed to Sebastian in honor of John<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

104


Sebastian, third vice-president of the Rock<br />

Island Lines. Neither William Lyford nor John<br />

Sebastian ever lived in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

PORT<br />

MANSFIELD<br />

A newer Willacy County community has<br />

grown up around Port Mansfield on the coast<br />

some twenty miles east of Raymondville. A<br />

port and fishing community on the Laguna<br />

Madre, it was formerly a small fishing camp<br />

known as Red Fish Landing. The port was<br />

opened in 1950 by the United States Army<br />

Corps of Engineers, which wanted a harbor<br />

between Corpus Christi and Brownsville. It<br />

was named for U.S. Representative Joseph J.<br />

Mansfield, who introduced the Mansfield Bill<br />

authorizing the extension of the Gulf<br />

Intracoastal Waterway from Corpus Christi to<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, completed in 1949.<br />

The Port Mansfield “cut” was completed<br />

across Padre Island in 1962. This brought a<br />

tidal exchange between the Gulf of Mexico<br />

and the Laguna Madre that produced an<br />

abundant population of redfish, brown<br />

shrimp, and flounder and greatly expanded<br />

the sport and commercial fish economy of<br />

Port Mansfield. Its claim to being “the best little<br />

fishing spot on the Texas Coast” is borne<br />

out at the Port Mansfield Annual Fishing<br />

Tournament held in late July each year, a<br />

highlight of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s summer season.<br />

COMBES: SETTLED BY<br />

JAMES DISHMAN<br />

In search of a new home, James Dishman<br />

left Kaufman County, Texas in 1893. He<br />

selected a section in northwestern Cameron<br />

County, which he described as “a land of vast<br />

richness.” At that time there was no highway<br />

running north and south, nor even a town<br />

closer than Brownsville—just good, rich land<br />

covered with mesquite and cactus.<br />

Dishman bought cattle to start his herd,<br />

added another section, and leased a third. He<br />

was one of the first settlers to irrigate his crops<br />

of cotton, corn, vegetables, grain, and sugarcane<br />

from wells. He took a great interest in the<br />

development of the <strong>Valley</strong> and contributed two<br />

hundred acres to the building of the railroad.<br />

Living conditions were primitive. The<br />

nearest post office was fifteen miles away and<br />

often a week would pass before someone<br />

could pick up the mail. Lists of supplies needed<br />

were carefully kept for the monthly wagon<br />

trip to Brownsville. The only bank in the area<br />

was at Brownsville, as was the one newspaper,<br />

the Brownsville Herald.<br />

The lack of medical service always<br />

concerned early settlers, the nearest facility<br />

being a day’s journey to Brownsville. In the<br />

spring of 1897, several thefts of stock had been<br />

reported, and Dishman went with a young<br />

deputy in search of the thieves. They were<br />

attacked by the suspected thieves and Dishman<br />

was severely wounded, a bullet penetrating his<br />

left forearm and entering his left lung, with<br />

another bullet wound in the back.<br />

A rider was sent to Brownsville by<br />

horseback for a doctor, and Dr. Fred Combes<br />

arrived just thirty-six hours after the shooting.<br />

✧<br />

Top: A land party is shown in front of the<br />

Lamar Gill home in Raymondville. Standing<br />

at far left are S. L. Gill, W. A. Harding, and<br />

Ernest Pless. Seated eighth from left are Laura<br />

Harding and Sarah Gill. Harding and Gill<br />

developed several tracts around Raymondville<br />

and Monte Alto, where they built the Delta<br />

Orchard Clubhouse to house and entertain<br />

land parties. In 1999 the Harding Foundation,<br />

established by W. A. and Laura Harding,<br />

celebrated its fiftieth anniversary of giving<br />

donations to charities, local projects, and<br />

tuition to ministerial students worldwide.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HARDING.<br />

Above: This Old Country Store near<br />

Combes is typical of stores that existed in<br />

the new communities that sprang up along<br />

the railroad. Now residents do most of their<br />

shopping in nearby cities.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

105


Harlingen, with well-kept homes, churches, small<br />

businesses, and a steadily increasing population.<br />

HARLINGEN & ITS FOUNDER<br />

✧<br />

Above: Harlingen founder Lon C. Hill beat<br />

the railroad to the <strong>Valley</strong> the hard way,<br />

moving his household in ten covered wagons<br />

in 1903. He is shown at left with his driver<br />

and the “Grey Ghost” after a fifteen-mile<br />

trip in mud and rain. This automobile was<br />

said to be the first one in Harlingen.<br />

COURTESY OF RIO GRANDE VALLEY MUSEUM.<br />

Below: The Hill family built Harlingen’s first<br />

home, now preserved as part of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum complex near the<br />

airport. Personal items from Lon Hill and<br />

the era help add to the rustic authenticity of<br />

days gone by.<br />

He cleansed and dressed the wounds, then<br />

returned to Brownsville and sent his brother,<br />

Dr. Joe Combes, to care for the critically ill<br />

man. After a month, the patient was taken in a<br />

wagon converted into a makeshift ambulance<br />

to the Army hospital in Brownsville, where<br />

surgery was performed to remove the bullets,<br />

and Dishman recovered from his wounds.<br />

When the first passenger train came by his<br />

land in 1904, Dishman laid out a new<br />

community which he named “Combes” in<br />

gratitude to the doctors who saved his life. He<br />

donated land for a cemetery, three churches,<br />

and the school that bears his name.<br />

Combes was incorporated in the 1950s.<br />

Nowadays, it is a bedroom community of<br />

It was July 4, 1904 when the first train<br />

reached what was known as “Lon C. Hill’s<br />

Town.” Hill was among those who had helped<br />

with the railroad by providing land and<br />

money and convincing others to do the same.<br />

He had started buying land in 1898, when a<br />

court case brought him to Brownsville, and<br />

had acquired several large holdings. In 1903<br />

he left a thriving law practice in Beeville to<br />

stake all on developing a parched, rattlesnakeinfested<br />

wilderness.<br />

Hill beat the railroad to the <strong>Valley</strong> the hard<br />

way, moving his household and family of nine<br />

children in ten covered wagons, with special<br />

wide tires for desert sand. The caravan<br />

included two other families. They had a<br />

chuck wagon, a three-seated hack called the<br />

ambulance where the girls rode, and a buggy<br />

for Mrs. Hill and the baby, George.<br />

It took them thirteen days to travel from<br />

Beeville, a trip of two days and nights by the<br />

only other land transportation, the stage from<br />

Alice. The journey along wild land and<br />

through the King, Kenedy, Yturria and<br />

Armstrong Ranches was especially exciting to<br />

the Hill children. The boys on horseback<br />

drove sixty head of livestock, and a pack of<br />

hounds followed. For the Hill family,<br />

however, the first year and a half after their<br />

big move brought hardship and tragedy. They<br />

camped in a warehouse at Point Isabel, but<br />

had to flee at the threat of a hurricane, and a<br />

yellow fever rumor prompted them to vacate<br />

their first headquarters in Brownsville.<br />

Hill and his sons camped by the Arroyo<br />

Colorado as they prepared their new home<br />

and town. Hill envisioned a system of irrigation<br />

canals and a barge canal connected to the<br />

Arroyo Colorado. He chose the name<br />

Harlingen because it suggested canals like<br />

those in the City of Harlingen, Holland, the<br />

home of his friend Uriah Lott’s grandmother.<br />

While the rest of the family was living in<br />

Brownsville, typhoid struck, and Lon Hill lost<br />

his beloved wife Eustacia and baby George.<br />

The oldest daughter, Miss Paul Hill, then<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

106


twenty-one, bravely took over the household<br />

responsibilities and care of the younger<br />

children. The family moved into their new<br />

home, built by carpenters from Austin, in<br />

January 1905. It is now preserved as<br />

Harlingen’s first home in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Museum complex near the airport.<br />

Hill’s greatest project at the time was a set<br />

of irrigation canals, built with the help of a<br />

partner, W. Z. Weems. Digging started in May<br />

1907, and by November 26, miles of canals<br />

were ready to operate, capable of irrigating<br />

seventy-five thousand acres, all with only one<br />

pump on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. With the assurance<br />

of water, he began to sell land near cost to<br />

encourage settlers. He built the first brick<br />

building in town in 1908, which housed a<br />

post office, bank and newspaper office. In<br />

1910, when Harlingen had about three<br />

hundred residents, the town was officially<br />

incorporated.<br />

Hill also planted crops on his land. Cotton,<br />

alfalfa, corn and truck vegetables flourished,<br />

as did sugarcane, but the sugar mill he built<br />

was burned down by bandits in 1917. In his<br />

later years, Hill worked for flood control and<br />

other legislation, and a barge canal to Port<br />

Harlingen on the Arroyo connected with the<br />

Gulf Intracoastal Canal System, which finally<br />

became a reality in 1952. A legend in his own<br />

time, he was honored on his seventieth<br />

birthday in 1932 at a Founders’ Day program.<br />

“The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas is a manmade<br />

miracle,” said Hill. “Nature provided<br />

the raw materials—fertile soil, water and<br />

climate. Men of vision mixed these with<br />

brains, energy, sweat and tears to create the<br />

magic of our Magic <strong>Valley</strong>. I have watched the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> grow from small beginnings. I know<br />

the people who have made it, and have faith<br />

in their ability to achieve still greater things.<br />

The future depends upon the efforts of all<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> people, their ability to make the<br />

most of their abundant natural advantages,<br />

and continued opportunity to prosper in a<br />

free economy.”<br />

A major change came to Harlingen in 1941<br />

when the efforts of Harlingen business leaders to<br />

secure an air base were successful. The city<br />

provided 960 acres of land, the government<br />

approved a training program for thirty thousand<br />

troops a year, and construction began in July<br />

1941 on Harlingen Air Gunnery School (HAGS).<br />

Plans were expedited after the December 7, 1941<br />

attack on Pearl Harbor and by January 1942 over<br />

eighty truckloads of troops rolled through its<br />

gates. It was only a short time before airplanes<br />

were flying across the brilliant blue sky and the<br />

acrid smells of gunsmoke and flight fuel were<br />

mingled with the fragrance of citrus blossoms.<br />

Air gunnery training continued until the end of<br />

World War II.<br />

The air base spawned <strong>Valley</strong> Transit<br />

Company, which began with a converted milk<br />

delivery truck, to transport workers and<br />

service personnel to and from the base. Under<br />

the guidance of co-founder Vance D. Raimond,<br />

it grew into a full-fledged bus system<br />

✧<br />

Above: Harlingen rapidly grew into a<br />

business and retail center as shown on<br />

Jackson Street in the late 1930s.<br />

COURTESY OF THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY MUSEUM.<br />

Below: The first <strong>Valley</strong> Transit Company bus<br />

was a converted delivery wagon to transport<br />

workers and service personnel to and from<br />

the new military base. It soon grew to serve<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> and northern Mexico with its fleet<br />

of modern buses, later expanding service to<br />

Corpus Christi, San Antonio, and beyond.<br />

COURTESY OF ROBERT FARRIS.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

107


✧<br />

Right: The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum<br />

complex occupies a part of the former air<br />

base. Behind this showcase museum around<br />

a landscaped courtyard are the Paso Real<br />

Stagecoach Inn, the <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum that<br />

chronicles early <strong>Valley</strong> life and Texas<br />

history, Harlingen’s first hospital, and the<br />

Lon C. Hill home.<br />

Below: The Iwo Jima Memorial on the<br />

campus of Harlingen’s Marine Military<br />

Academy was the original mold fashioned<br />

from a photo of U.S. Marines planting the<br />

flag on Mt. Suribachi, Iwo Jima, on<br />

February 23, 1945. It was used to cast the<br />

famous monument in Arlington, Virginia.<br />

One of those raising the flag was Harlon<br />

Block, a young Weslaco Marine who was<br />

killed in the Iwo Jima fighting six days after<br />

the famed photo was taken. He is honored<br />

in his hometown by a park that bears his<br />

name and an exhibit at the Weslaco<br />

Bicultural Museum. His remains now rest at<br />

the base of this memorial.<br />

operating through the <strong>Valley</strong> and beyond that<br />

is still operated by family members.<br />

The Harlingen Air Base was closed in 1946.<br />

After extensive renovations it reopened as the<br />

Harlingen Air Force Base in 1952 as an<br />

observer-navigator school to train navigators<br />

during the Korean War. By March 1960 over<br />

ten thousand navigators had graduated from<br />

this training program. Hundreds of civilian<br />

workers were employed at the air base in<br />

addition to an estimated four thousand service<br />

personnel. The base buzzed with action.<br />

Then there was stunned silence. In 1961<br />

word came that the base was ordered closed.<br />

The airmen were transferred and more than<br />

700 civilian jobs ended. “For Sale” signs stood<br />

in the yards of about 1,400 homes in<br />

Harlingen. Harlingen residents were greatly<br />

concerned about the economy. A plan evolved<br />

to advertise the homes to retirees in the North<br />

and Midwest, offering affordable homes in a<br />

warm climate. Success was visible as, one by<br />

one, the “For Sale” signs came down as new<br />

residents moved in to become a vital part of<br />

the community.<br />

And what to do with the base itself? Mayor<br />

Mike Hodes felt it should be used for<br />

educational institutions. After much red tape,<br />

the city acquired ownership of much of the<br />

base. When the city’s money ran out, H. E.<br />

Butt of Corpus Christi, founder of the H-E-B<br />

stores, and Lewis Boggus and Art Hauseman<br />

of Harlingen made large purchases at the<br />

auction and then made these facilities<br />

available for city development purposes.<br />

The results can be seen today. The former<br />

base is home to <strong>Valley</strong> International Airport,<br />

Texas State Technical College, the Marine<br />

Military Academy, the Iwo Jima Monument<br />

and Visitor Center, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Museum complex, major industrial firms, and<br />

related businesses.<br />

Though agriculture does not dominate the<br />

economy as it once did, cotton is still an<br />

important factor in Harlingen’s economy. The<br />

first bale harvested in the nation each year is<br />

welcomed by the Harlingen Chamber and<br />

business community with great fanfare and<br />

prizes. Cotton buyers are centered here, as are<br />

cottonseed processing firms, suppliers, and<br />

cotton gins.<br />

Harlingen’s healthcare institutions spread<br />

their influence over the area. Their<br />

centerpiece is <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Health System,<br />

which celebrated its seventy-fifth anniversary<br />

in 2000. The new Regional Academic Health<br />

Center (RAHC), approved by Texas<br />

legislators, is being built near the huge <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Baptist complex, which is surrounded by<br />

clinics and medical offices.<br />

Harlingen also has built a strong tourism<br />

industry. To its strong Winter Texan base it has<br />

added a year-round emphasis on ecotourism.<br />

The sixth Annual <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Birding<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

108


Festival in November 2000 attracted thousands<br />

of ecotourists. The city is linking parks with<br />

walking and biking trails along the Arroyo<br />

Colorado and a forty-acre thicket has been<br />

acquired as a satellite of the World Birding<br />

Center headquartered in Mission. The city’s<br />

annual <strong>Rio</strong>Fest, a celebration of the arts that is<br />

held in April, targets both residents and tourists.<br />

Harlingen’s strategic location has helped it<br />

grow into a trade and transportation hub. It<br />

also is poised for increased international trade<br />

through its Mexico connection, the Free Trade<br />

Bridge at Los Indios, which it shares with San<br />

Benito. In addition to its many fine modern<br />

buildings and facilities for citizens and<br />

tourists, some of its remarkable old buildings<br />

have been restored to new life as homes and<br />

offices, shops, banks and cafes in its<br />

flourishing downtown section. Even its<br />

founder would be amazed at what the town he<br />

established has become.<br />

SAN BENITO: THE RESACA CITY<br />

In May 1904 the railroad crew reached<br />

what would become San Benito, called “The<br />

Resaca City” because of the beautiful resaca,<br />

or oxbow, formed from a long-ago channel of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, that winds through it. When<br />

the railroad work party arrived there with<br />

Colonel Sam Robertson heading the crew, he<br />

knew he had found the land for which he had<br />

been searching.<br />

Robertson was fully aware of the potential<br />

of the alluvial soil under irrigation. He<br />

borrowed money to buy thirteen thousand<br />

acres from James F. Landrum and Oliver Hicks<br />

of the Stephen Powers estate and platted the<br />

town. First it was named “Bessie” in 1904 in<br />

honor of railroad financier B. F. Yoakum’s<br />

daughter, and the depot was known as “Bessie”<br />

until 1907, when Robertson applied for a post<br />

office and discovered that Gaines County<br />

already had a post office named Bessie. Then<br />

Robertson platted the town as “Diaz” for<br />

Mexico’s longtime president and applied for a<br />

post office in that name, which was approved<br />

on April 2,1907 with Robertson as postmaster.<br />

However, that name ran into trouble with<br />

Mercedes, whose founders had first decided to<br />

name that new town “Diaz.”<br />

“San Benito” was suggested by a cook in<br />

Robertson’s surveyors’ camp. Rafael Moreno,<br />

who had been a cabin boy during the heyday of<br />

steamboating on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, wanted to<br />

honor his former benefactor, Benjamin Hicks.<br />

The name of San Benito was approved by the<br />

post office on May 11, 1907, and both the<br />

railroad station and post office have used the<br />

name since that time. The first baby born there<br />

was named San Benito Montalvo in honor of<br />

the new town. An election for incorporation<br />

was held on June 27, 1911, and the City of San<br />

Benito was duly incorporated on July 3, 1911.<br />

Meanwhile, Robertson talked a group of<br />

investors into organizing the San Benito Land<br />

and Water Company with $500,000 capital<br />

from several partners and a district embracing<br />

sixty-eight thousand acres. Water pumped<br />

from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> flowed into the old<br />

resaca, now San Benito’s main canal. Built<br />

with a system of locks, it was up to 250 feet<br />

wide and 37 miles long, including a short<br />

man-made channel connecting with the river.<br />

He worked on the canal system from 1906 to<br />

1913, investing all the money he had made on<br />

the railroad to Brownsville and other projects,<br />

plus the proceeds of town lots and thousands of<br />

acres of land, using every dollar of the money in<br />

developing the San Benito project. A 1909<br />

report of the company said, in part:<br />

The town is well supplied with general<br />

merchandise stores; it has a good bank with<br />

deposits of about $100,000, churches, a<br />

✧<br />

Above: Colonel Sam A. Robertson, founder<br />

of San Benito, builder of railroads and<br />

canals, and visionary of a world class resort<br />

on South Padre Island.<br />

COURTESY OF THE SAN BENITO HISTORICAL COMMISSION.<br />

Below: In 1911, Robertson built his spacious<br />

home on San Benito’s main street like a<br />

fortress, and it has lasted well to this day. It<br />

is now the home and office of attorney<br />

Jeffrey Jackson.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

109


difference, and landseekers flocked to the<br />

area, sometimes chartering a train all the way<br />

down from Chicago. Robertson’s agents once<br />

signed up four thousand acres in small tracts<br />

within a single two-week period.<br />

In 1910 and 1911, to encourage land sales,<br />

Robertson built what became known as the<br />

Spiderweb Railroad to serve the smaller communities<br />

so they could get their produce to<br />

market. He later sold it at a profit, but lost it<br />

all in the San Benito canal project.<br />

The San Benito News for February 27, 1961<br />

reminisced that,<br />

✧<br />

Above: The San Benito Land and Water<br />

Company built an irrigation system to serve<br />

sixty-eight thousand acres. Begun in 1906,<br />

it still operates from this headquarters.<br />

Below: The San Benito Irrigation District<br />

office today. Though farming conditions and<br />

the availability of water have changed<br />

greatly since the system was built, the<br />

district still works with area farmers to<br />

supply their water needs.<br />

schoolhouse and a cotton gin which ginned<br />

something like 1,000 bales of cotton this year.<br />

Several substantial buildings are now being<br />

erected and the company will immediately<br />

erect a desirable office building. In addition to<br />

the present school facilities, funds have<br />

been provided for the erection of a<br />

commodious and modern structure to cost<br />

not less than $20,000.<br />

Provision has also been made for the<br />

installation of suitable electric light and<br />

waterworks plants, sidewalks and other<br />

conveniences. In fact, the community has all<br />

the appearances of progress and enterprise<br />

and is destined to increase in size and<br />

importance with the development of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> country.<br />

By 1908 construction had reached a point<br />

where water could be turned into the canal<br />

and the resaca began to fill. Water made the<br />

San Benito thrived and became a busy hub<br />

of shipping and trading. The vegetable output<br />

was higher than any other town in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, and postal receipts more than<br />

doubled that first year from $249 in October<br />

1909 to $530 in October 1910. Freight<br />

receipts almost tripled, jumping from $3,314<br />

to $8,751 in the same year’s time. The largest<br />

sugar mill in South Texas had reached the last<br />

planning stage and an ice factory was being<br />

built. The electric plant had doubled its<br />

capacity, and a canning factory had made<br />

commitments for coming to San Benito.<br />

From that same edition:<br />

The first school in San Benito was a<br />

traditional one-room schoolhouse. When<br />

school convened on December 7, 1908, there<br />

were forty-eight students representing five<br />

nationalities: Americans, non-English speaking<br />

Germans, Bohemians, Spaniards, and<br />

Mexicans. The first teacher was Mrs. Scott<br />

Brown, who was then Miss Kate Purvis.<br />

From Charles Robinson III in A History of<br />

San Benito: “The Escuela Guadalupe, a<br />

parochial school, was opened in 1912. Many<br />

Spanish-speaking residents received their only<br />

education at the school under the direction of<br />

Mrs. Carmen Martinez.”<br />

San Benito developed quickly and became<br />

the produce center of the area during its early<br />

years, shipping more fruit and vegetable<br />

tonnage than any other city. The Stonewall<br />

Jackson Hotel, built by public subscription,<br />

was called “one of the most up-to-date hotels<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

110


in South Texas” in 1928 and for many years<br />

was a center of business and social activity.<br />

From Robinson’s A History of San Benito:<br />

In 1931 the San Benito Airport was<br />

dedicated, accompanied by an air show that<br />

would still be considered spectacular. There<br />

were luncheons and banquets in the Stonewall<br />

Jackson Hotel, air races and a formal ball.<br />

Flying clubs came from as far away as Houston.<br />

For regular entertainment, the city boasted any<br />

number of activities. The Bohemian Club held<br />

dances on the roof of the Aztec Building,<br />

obtaining some of the best bands in Texas.<br />

There were three movie houses, the Rivoli, the<br />

Palace and the Ruenes, the latter particularly<br />

noted for its lavish appointments.<br />

Yet much of the glitter was superficial.<br />

Underneath, the citizenry suffered from the<br />

hardships of the Great Depression as much as<br />

any other area of the country. While the San<br />

Benito Bank and Trust managed to hold out,<br />

the Farmer’s State and the Arroyo State failed.<br />

The great heyday, the time of unlimited<br />

optimism in San Benito was over. It remained<br />

for nature to provide the final blow. On<br />

September 3, 1933, a hurricane devastated the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and marked the end of Old San Benito.<br />

Sam Robertson had created it, and he had<br />

lived to see it pass. He died in Brownsville on<br />

August 22, 1938 at the age of 71.<br />

The sugar mill that was begun with such<br />

great promise never did manufacture sugar, but<br />

the structure became the first large power plant<br />

operated by Central Power and Light Company,<br />

and the city served as CPL’s district headquarters<br />

for many years. Agriculture continued as its<br />

mainstay until diversification brought new<br />

manufacturing and service industries.<br />

The Dolly Vinsant Memorial Hospital, built<br />

by community subscription in 1949, was named<br />

for a San Benito nurse killed in World War II<br />

while flying over Germany on a mercy mission.<br />

It has been enlarged many times and continues<br />

to serve the area under its present ownership.<br />

In the 1930s, Narciso Martinez began to<br />

bring attention to San Benito with his accordion.<br />

He became known as El Huracán del Valle or the<br />

Hurricane of the <strong>Valley</strong> and is regarded as the<br />

father of Conjunto Music. San Benito’s Narciso<br />

Martinez Cultural Arts Center promotes the<br />

region’s Hispanic heritage through art, music,<br />

theater, film, dance, and literary programs.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s only celebrity to be honored with<br />

a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame is<br />

western and Tejano singer Freddy Fender who<br />

grew up in San Benito and has never forgotten<br />

his roots. He visits his home city often and has<br />

established a foundation to provide scholarships<br />

for students across the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Other famous San Benitians include Elfego<br />

Esparza, world famous opera singer born and<br />

raised in El Ranchito, a 1948 San Benito High<br />

School graduate, and Carlos D. Conde,<br />

nominated for the Pulitzer Prize, a 1954<br />

graduate who served in the Nixon White House.<br />

T. R. Fehrenbach, author of eighteen nonfiction<br />

books and past chairman of the Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Commission, was born in San Benito in the Sam<br />

Robertson house. Dr. James C. Dobson, founder<br />

✧<br />

Above: The sugar mill begun by Sam<br />

Robertson became the first large power<br />

plant operated by Central Power and Light<br />

Company in the area. This picture shows<br />

the power plant around 1970.<br />

Below: The Dolly Vinsant Memorial<br />

Hospital was built by public subscription in<br />

1949 and named in honor of a nurse killed<br />

in World War II. The hospital has been<br />

updated and enlarged several times and<br />

continues to serve the San Benito area.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

111


San Benito has always been a good place to<br />

live, with beautiful homes built along its<br />

winding resaca, friendly merchants and<br />

townspeople, and an outstanding school system.<br />

With its excellent Mexico connection<br />

through the Free Trade Bridge at Los Indios, it<br />

is primed for healthy growth.<br />

LOS FRESNOS:<br />

NAMED FOR ASH TREES<br />

✧<br />

Top: The Los Fresnos State Bank was<br />

established in 1928 to serve the community.<br />

It survived the crash of 1929 and the<br />

ensuing depression, and continues to serve<br />

the area as part of the Wells Fargo system.<br />

Above: An early Los Fresnos settler, Harry<br />

Whipple, funded a library in memory of his<br />

wife, Ethel. The library is the centerpiece of<br />

a city park.<br />

and president of Focus on the Family, graduated<br />

in 1954, as did Bobby Morrow, three-time<br />

Olympic gold medallist.<br />

San Benito leaders received good news in<br />

December 1999 when they landed the<br />

Challenger Learning Center, a multi-million<br />

dollar facility packed with space-science educational<br />

tools billed as the latest vehicle in the<br />

teaching of math, science, engineering and<br />

technology for students in South Texas and<br />

northern Mexico. It includes a space shuttle<br />

simulator for students to conduct simulated<br />

space flights.<br />

The new millennium is bringing many<br />

changes to San Benito. Two new hotels were<br />

announced early in 2000. The state’s largest<br />

RV park is located in San Benito, adding more<br />

than three thousand residents during the<br />

winter season. A large transportation and<br />

warehouse facility opened in 2000 to serve<br />

nearby maquiladoras in Mexico.<br />

Ten years after the railroad opened the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> to the world, towns had been established<br />

alongside its route as it was extended<br />

west. Clearing had begun in the new settlements<br />

and irrigation systems were pumping<br />

water from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> to fields of vegetables.<br />

However, much of the land was still covered<br />

with cactus and thorny brush, including<br />

what was to become Los Fresnos, roughly ten<br />

miles north of Brownsville and ten miles<br />

southeast of San Benito. A ranch had existed<br />

there since 1770, where open range grazing,<br />

especially of sheep, was conducted until after<br />

the Mexican War.<br />

There were four settlements in the area: Las<br />

Yescas, for the yesca plant that burns freely<br />

and was used as a lighter for cigarettes; Agua<br />

Negra for “Black Water;” Charco Hondo,<br />

which means a large dry resaca bed with one<br />

deep waterhole, and Tres Norias, “Three<br />

Wells.” Residents grew corn and beans for<br />

their own use but did not grow crops for sale.<br />

These communities became part of the new<br />

settlement and the people found jobs on the<br />

new irrigated farms, so they no longer had to<br />

travel by horse and wagon to Corpus Christi<br />

each year to pick cotton.<br />

Harlingen developer Lon C. Hill had<br />

purchased the Los Fresnos tract from Mexican<br />

owners of the Espíritu Santo grant. Lon C.<br />

“Mose” Hill, Jr., and others formed a<br />

development company to sell the land. They<br />

established a townsite on the old Alice<br />

stagecoach road, first calling it “Moseville,”<br />

then Los Fresnos, Spanish for “The Ash” for the<br />

many ash trees that grew there. Work began on<br />

an irrigation system, and partner Thomas Lee<br />

of St. Louis contacted prospective buyers.<br />

Among early arrivals was the Swann family,<br />

E. C. and his wife Susie, and their children,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

112


Frances, Eunice, James, and Miriam, who<br />

came on October 20, 1915, from Centralia,<br />

Missouri. He was a Methodist minister who<br />

had been bitten by the <strong>Valley</strong> land bug on an<br />

earlier trip with the developers, and the<br />

family augmented its income by providing<br />

meals for the homeseekers. Daughter Miriam<br />

became Miriam Chattelle and spent most of<br />

her life living, teaching, and raising her two<br />

sons in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. In 1948 she<br />

wrote about the early days of Los Fresnos in a<br />

delightful book, For We Love Our <strong>Valley</strong> Home:<br />

Sightseeing trips were made by train to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> when a sizeable number of buyers were<br />

ready to see first-hand this veritable land of<br />

Eden. The waiting list was long for many<br />

people desired to visit the land on the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>; the very name sounded romantic<br />

and appealing.<br />

Men feel a deep urge to pioneer, exulting<br />

in hardships in the creating of new homes and<br />

creating towns from brushland. Especially did<br />

the description of the fertility of this land and<br />

tropical climate beckon to many.<br />

Purchases were made by several families as<br />

quickly as houses could be built and land<br />

cleared…the Smiths, Donaldsons, Luptons,<br />

Whipples and Palmers, to name just a few. As<br />

more land was cleared, other people came.<br />

First a Community House was built and used<br />

for all religions and civic purposes. When it<br />

was damaged beyond repair by the 1933<br />

hurricane, four churches were established in<br />

as many years. In 1920 the Woman’s Service<br />

Club was organized to provide a social service<br />

club for the women of the community.<br />

The land yielded wonderful crops of vegetables<br />

and cane, and later potatoes were grown<br />

on a large scale. In response to a request for<br />

crop yield information by the new Chamber of<br />

Commerce, Harry Whipple wrote in 1929:<br />

My average returns from year to year are<br />

good, and so far ahead of anything ever heard<br />

of in the state where I lived before moving to<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> that it is hard for my friends back<br />

there to believe. I have had potato crops which<br />

ran over $1,000 per acre. I had three acres of<br />

cabbage which made $2,600, or an average of<br />

$866.66 per acre. One year, I had one acre of<br />

beans which came up volunteer from the<br />

season before, which brought me $500.<br />

Many years later, he helped establish a city<br />

library, the Whipple Memorial Library named<br />

in memory of his wife.<br />

When the Southern Pacific Railroad built<br />

its new line to Brownsville in 1927 through<br />

Los Fresnos, the townsite began to grow<br />

around the depot. A new school building was<br />

built, its bond issue having passed by vote of<br />

27 for and 26 against. The “aginners” vowed<br />

the community would never grow enough to<br />

fill such a large school. But it did and was<br />

bursting at the seams by the 1950s, when<br />

another bond issue passed to build a modern<br />

elementary school, soon followed by a new<br />

high school plant. More new schools have<br />

been added in recent years to make room for<br />

students in the large school district, recognized<br />

over the state for its excellent schools.<br />

Businesses came and went with the times<br />

as agriculture experienced its ups and downs.<br />

✧<br />

The new Los Fresnos High School spreads<br />

over a large campus by a picturesque<br />

resaca. It is one of several new facilities in<br />

the school district.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

113


development program, including new<br />

businesses and attractive residential<br />

subdivisions. The brush is gone, the streets<br />

are paved, the palms sway in the sunshine,<br />

and the soil still yields a good harvest for<br />

those who farm wisely. Though Brownsville’s<br />

city limits keep moving closer, Los Fresnos<br />

maintains its own personality and identity as<br />

it heads into the new century.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The old Paso Real Ferry crossing on<br />

the Arroyo Colorado near <strong>Rio</strong> Hondo was<br />

on the main stagecoach route between<br />

Brownsville and Corpus Christi. The Inn is<br />

shown atop the hill in the background.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

Below: The Paso Real Stagecoach Inn<br />

originally on the banks of the Arroyo<br />

Colorado is now part of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Museum complex at Harlingen. It<br />

gives a view of life about 1870, when travel<br />

was by horse and wagon, and it took three<br />

days to journey eighty miles.<br />

Its businesses and citizens were served<br />

through more than six decades by the Los<br />

Fresnos State Bank, established in 1928 by<br />

A. N. Tandy and his sons, Cleve and Clyde<br />

Tandy. Later, Ura Breedlove headed the bank<br />

for many years, and in 1975 his son Cleve<br />

became its president. The bank still serves Los<br />

Fresnos and its active farming community as<br />

part of the Wells Fargo system. Tandy Hall on<br />

the campus of UT-Brownsville/Texas<br />

Southmost College was named in honor of the<br />

Tandy family.<br />

The community works together to produce<br />

the Los Fresnos PRCA Rodeo in early<br />

February each year which draws cowboys<br />

from the national circuit, plus a youth show<br />

and arts and crafts exhibition. The event<br />

attracts a wide audience from area residents<br />

and Winter Texans.<br />

Recent years have brought positive changes<br />

to Los Fresnos through its active economic<br />

RIO HONDO MEANS<br />

“ DEEP RIVER”<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo was part of the thorny jungle in<br />

1911 when W. H. Smith and the Reverend<br />

William H. Morrison bought a thousand acres<br />

of land from Sam A. Robertson, developer of<br />

the San Benito tract. Engineer Alfred Tamm<br />

made the survey for the townsite northeast of<br />

Harlingen on the east bank of the Arroyo<br />

Colorado, a former channel of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. J. R. George was the first settler, and<br />

his wife is credited with naming the new town<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo (Deep River). George operated a<br />

general store and served as the first<br />

postmaster when the post office was<br />

established in 1911. The San Benito and <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Railroad was completed past<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo in June 1911.<br />

Before <strong>Rio</strong> Hondo was founded, the nearby<br />

ferry crossing at Paso Real played an<br />

important part in <strong>Valley</strong> history. It was known<br />

for years as “General Taylor’s Crossing on the<br />

Arroyo Colorado” as his army marched<br />

through there on its way to Brownsville and<br />

Port Isabel. Later it was a way station on the<br />

Alice-Brownsville stagecoach route. The<br />

village of Arroyo formed around it and<br />

became the mail distribution point for north<br />

Cameron County for two decades until<br />

Harlingen got its own post office. The old<br />

Paso Real Stagecoach Inn was moved from its<br />

original site to Harlingen and completely<br />

reconstructed as part of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Museum complex.<br />

A year after its founding, a sales brochure<br />

emphasized the potential of “RIO HONDO—<br />

The New Resort Town and Playground of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.” In addition to its farming<br />

potential, it was called a “Sportsman’s<br />

Paradise” with its good hunting, fishing, and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

114


favorable location by the Arroyo. Though<br />

some of those early dreams may not have<br />

materialized, it did become a friendly and<br />

prosperous agricultural community near the<br />

Port of Harlingen, located on the Gulf<br />

Intracoastal Waterway. As in other parts of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, farming activity started with vegetables<br />

and now has mostly grain, cotton and cattle.<br />

The Arroyo, wide, deep, and free from<br />

pollution, was perfect for water sports in the<br />

early days. Outing parties came from miles<br />

around, traveling by buggy, horseback, and<br />

automobile, and the Fourth of July picnic was<br />

a gala all-day affair. Now many <strong>Valley</strong> residents<br />

have getaway homes along the Arroyo, and it<br />

has become a popular fishing and boating<br />

area. The Arroyo has been dredged and is<br />

navigable to barges from the Gulf Intracoastal<br />

Waterway to the Port of Harlingen. Nature<br />

lovers enjoy its rugged bankside vegetation,<br />

thorn forests and marshes that shelter many<br />

native birds and animals. The final reaches of<br />

the Arroyo pass through Laguna Atascosa<br />

National Wildlife Refuge.<br />

The Texas Air Museum, located one mile<br />

east of <strong>Rio</strong> Hondo, shows the history of<br />

aviation from World War I through the<br />

Vietnam War. Their display of aircraft<br />

includes foreign as well as U.S. planes. There<br />

is also a library that is available for research<br />

on many aviation-related subjects.<br />

BROWNSVILLE<br />

REVISITED<br />

Brownsville, the <strong>Valley</strong>’s oldest and largest<br />

city, entered the twentieth century with less<br />

than ten thousand people. Its friendship and<br />

commerce with Matamoros were intact, and<br />

its public buildings were conveniently<br />

located. Its cosmopolitan population enjoyed<br />

social refinements and educational<br />

opportunities that were established in<br />

wealthier times. However, the outside world<br />

was still limited to steamships serving Point<br />

Isabel, the narrow gauge <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad,<br />

the stagecoach line to Alice and Corpus<br />

Christi, and telegraphic connections.<br />

This all changed on July 4, 1904 when the<br />

first passenger train of the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad arrived in<br />

Brownsville, and the relaxing afternoon siesta<br />

became a thing of the past. By 1909 the first<br />

Brownsville-Matamoros International Bridge<br />

was under construction, with new stores and<br />

businesses being built.<br />

Its economy was still based on agriculture<br />

and trade with Mexico, but now products<br />

could be shipped to other parts of the country<br />

by rail. The railroad and its access to national<br />

markets gave Brownsville the incentive to<br />

further explore the agricultural possibilities of<br />

this fertile delta region.<br />

Brownsville participated in the agricultural<br />

bonanza that changed the area from brushland<br />

to irrigated farms, first with the growing of<br />

rice, which soon salted up the land, then<br />

sugarcane, which did the same. Vegetables<br />

and citrus were more productive, but there<br />

was no way to get the area’s products into<br />

world markets. Again, Brownsville looked to<br />

✧<br />

Above: The International Bridge between<br />

Brownsville and Matamoros, shown around<br />

1916, was a great improvement over<br />

the ferries and rowboats that had been<br />

used earlier.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The 1912 Cameron County<br />

Courthouse was the second built for that<br />

purpose. The brown brick and terra cotta<br />

building occupied an entire city block. The<br />

building has a Texas state historic marker<br />

and is listed in the National Register of<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Places. It was replaced by the<br />

present Cameron County Hall of Justice<br />

in 1978.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WIEGAND FAMILY.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

115


✧<br />

Above: Louis Cobolini, known as the<br />

“Father of Deep Water.”<br />

Below: People from over the <strong>Valley</strong> joined<br />

Brownsville in 1936 to celebrate the opening<br />

of the port, making it the largest gathering<br />

the city had ever entertained to that time.<br />

the sea. Without water transportation, export<br />

commerce was limited.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> needed deepwater<br />

transportation to develop its potential.<br />

Commodore Louis Cobolini, a native of Trieste,<br />

Italy, established a fleet of fishing boats at Point<br />

Isabel and became one of the largest shippers<br />

of marine products on the Texas coast. He saw<br />

the need for a deep water port for the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

and labored for twenty years to make it<br />

happen, providing technical expertise and<br />

working with army engineers and local leaders.<br />

His labors earned for him the name “Father of<br />

Deep Water” for the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

When Cobolini died at age eighty-four in<br />

1928, others took up the challenge. The<br />

Brownsville Navigation District was formed on<br />

December 22, 1928. It contained 201,668<br />

acres in Cameron County and was empowered<br />

to levy taxes and develop port facilities. In<br />

1930 attorney R. B. Rentfro was sent to<br />

Washington to present a petition to Congress<br />

asking them to authorize the Navigation<br />

District. While in the capital pushing his<br />

proposal through the legislative bodies,<br />

Rentfro was elected mayor of Brownsville, a<br />

post he held for the next ten years.<br />

President Hoover signed the Rivers and<br />

Harbors Bill that formally authorized the<br />

Brownsville Deepwater Project on July 4, 1930.<br />

Judge H. L. Yates had been sent to Washington<br />

in early September 1933 to negotiate with the<br />

Public Works Administration for funds to help<br />

pay for the project. An expenditure of $2.6<br />

million was approved, and the channel was<br />

dug from Brazos Santiago Pass to the new<br />

Brownsville turning basin. Seventeen miles<br />

long, the Brownsville ship channel is an almost<br />

straight, unobstructed channel connecting the<br />

harbor with the Gulf of Mexico, where the<br />

entrance is protected by rock jetties. By its<br />

opening date, $5.6 million had been spent to<br />

bring the port into being.<br />

At the port’s opening celebration on May<br />

16, 1936, Brownsville played host to the<br />

largest gathering the city had ever entertained.<br />

When the festivities closed that day, the deepwater<br />

port was open for business. F. W. “Fritz”<br />

Hofmokel directed operations at the port during<br />

its first three decades, bringing it to<br />

national prominence.<br />

At the Port of Brownsville today, ships move<br />

cargo from the U.S. and Mexico to all parts of<br />

the world. It is also the southern terminus of<br />

the Gulf Intracoastal Canal through which<br />

cargo moves by barges to the great river ports<br />

of the Mississippi-Ohio-Illinois System and<br />

even into Canada. The port is a major center of<br />

industrial development with some 250<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

116


companies doing business there. These<br />

businesses range from offshore drilling rigs and<br />

ship dismantling to grain handling and storage.<br />

At Fort Brown in 1900, soldiers came and<br />

went, taking part in the city’s social and civic<br />

life. In the spring of 1906, the First Battalion,<br />

Twenty-fifth Infantry (black) replaced the<br />

Twenty-sixth Infantry (white). Most of the<br />

170 men in Companies B, C and D were<br />

career regulars, and discipline was generally<br />

excellent, but local residents resented the idea<br />

of black troops and tensions developed.<br />

After a shooting incident on August 13,<br />

1906 that resulted in the death and wounding<br />

of several Brownsville residents, irate citizens<br />

wired President Theodore Roosevelt<br />

demanding the withdrawal of the troops. He<br />

withdrew the soldiers from Fort Brown and<br />

dismissed all three companies from the service<br />

without honor. Controversy about the incident<br />

continued for many years, and in 1973 the<br />

two surviving troopers of the ill-fated battalion<br />

were given honorable discharges.<br />

Following this 1906 incident, Fort Brown<br />

was closed until 1913, when bandit troubles<br />

erupted again and troops were stationed there<br />

once more to protect the border. The fort<br />

remained active as a Cavalry post until 1944,<br />

after which it was declared surplus. It is now<br />

the campus of University of Texas-<br />

Brownsville/Texas Southmost College. While<br />

many new buildings have been added, some<br />

of the old buildings are quite unique and are<br />

used extensively for administrative purposes<br />

for the rapidly growing university. The former<br />

base hospital, where Dr. William Gorgas discovered<br />

the cause of yellow fever, is now the<br />

Gorgas Administration Building.<br />

Brownsville honored its 150th birthday in<br />

1998 with a yearlong celebration that<br />

included parades, concerts, reenactments of<br />

historic events and other activities. One<br />

reenactment recalled Pan American pilot<br />

Charles Lindbergh carrying the first airmail<br />

between Mexico City and the U.S. The new<br />

Brownsville Municipal Airport, the first<br />

aviation facility in South Texas, was dedicated<br />

on March 10, 1929. Famed aviatrix Amelia<br />

Earhart was also on hand for the dedication.<br />

With modern progress coming to<br />

Brownsville, its people saw many of the<br />

customs and much of the color of the Old<br />

Border disappearing, so they decided to revive<br />

and perpetuate them in a gay fiesta. Charro<br />

Days was the result. This extravaganza began<br />

in 1938, a four-day pre-Lenten festival held<br />

the last weekend of February that has grown<br />

to a mammoth celebration for the twin cities<br />

of Brownsville and Matamoros.<br />

The spirit of Charro Days, when the<br />

Mexican cowboy rode into town to spend his<br />

earnings and see his sweetheart prevails.<br />

Colorful traditional costumes typical of Latin<br />

America are worn, and activities include three<br />

✧<br />

Above: F. W. “Fritz” Hofmokel directed<br />

operations at the port its first three decades.<br />

Below: By the 1980s the Port of Brownsville<br />

had become a major center of industrial<br />

development as it welcomed ships from all<br />

over the world. It continues to grow and<br />

expand its facilities and services.<br />

COURTESY OF THE PORT OF BROWNSVILLE.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

117


The nation’s first Hispanic district judge,<br />

Judge Reynaldo Garza, is a Brownsville<br />

resident, whose son, Ygnacio Garza, served as<br />

mayor of Brownsville from 1987 to 1991.<br />

Brownsville, the <strong>Valley</strong>’s oldest and largest<br />

city, enters the new millennium with around<br />

140,000 people. In both 1999 and 2000 it had<br />

unprecedented residential and commercial<br />

building activity. It is a port of entry by rail, sea,<br />

air, and highway over three international<br />

bridges. Its port is of major importance to<br />

industry and international trade, enhanced by<br />

its Foreign Trade Zone on the U.S./Mexico<br />

border. Its manufacturing sector works in<br />

conjunction with more than a hundred<br />

maquiladoras (manufacturing, processing and<br />

assembly plants) across the border in<br />

Matamoros. Its malls and other retail businesses<br />

draw many customers from both sides of the<br />

border, and it is a major tourist area with its<br />

proximity to Mexico and South Padre Island.<br />

Out of its historic past Brownsville has<br />

assumed its present role of international<br />

commercial center without loss of the<br />

tradition and charm of its mingled Latin-<br />

American culture.<br />

THE FIRST STOP WEST:<br />

STUART P LACE<br />

✧<br />

Top: The former Fort Brown hospital now<br />

serves as the UTB/TSC Gorgas<br />

Administration Building.<br />

Above: Built in 1867 adjacent to the<br />

hospital, the Fort Brown medical lab has<br />

been restored and named Champion Hall in<br />

honor of A. A. Champion, longtime<br />

Brownsville resident and historian.<br />

parades, roving mariachis, Mexican dancing,<br />

and much fun and frolic. Because it shows<br />

how different cultures can exist side by side on<br />

such a friendly basis, Charro Days has been<br />

the subject of many documentary movies,<br />

magazine articles, radio, and TV programs.<br />

In the 1960s and 1970s, Brownsville<br />

residents saw a wide range of construction<br />

and civic projects, many of them funded<br />

through the Earl C. Sams Foundation. A<br />

partner and chairman of the board of the<br />

JCPenney Company, Sams used his fortune to<br />

establish the foundation bearing his name.<br />

His daughters, Gladys Sams Porter and<br />

Camille Sams Lightner lived in Brownsville,<br />

and their love for the area resulted in the<br />

foundation’s gifts of facilities for Dean Porter<br />

Park, Camille Playhouse, Lula Sams Girl<br />

Scout Camp, Sams Stadium, and the Gladys<br />

Porter Zoo. Established in 1971, the zoo is<br />

one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s major attractions.<br />

As the railroad tracks moved westward out<br />

of Harlingen, some towns were developed<br />

immediately and others would wait a few<br />

years. In mid-1904, the railroad reached what<br />

would become Stuart Place, named for<br />

developers Robert and C. E. Stuart. Several<br />

years later, Mose Hill (Lon C. Jr.) and Thomas<br />

F. Lee built the white-columned Leeland-<br />

Stuart Place Clubhouse just west of Harlingen<br />

for the hundreds of homeseekers brought in<br />

by trainloads by Lee and the Stuart Brothers.<br />

“If the clubhouse could talk, it would tell<br />

delightful tales of the community entertainments<br />

and get-togethers of those landseekers,”<br />

remembered Lillian Weems Baldridge in “A<br />

Salute to the Leeland-Stuart Place Clubhouse” in<br />

Tip-O-Texan magazine in September 1967.<br />

“Later, there were many events through its years<br />

as a community center—romances, weddings,<br />

and friendships formed that have withstood the<br />

test of almost a half-century.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

118


She was a young educator who taught<br />

Spanish in public schools at the time, and Lee<br />

asked her to teach a Spanish class in “Farm<br />

Spanish-Mexican” to the homeseekers. They<br />

wanted to know how to say, “farming<br />

implements, water the mules, harness and<br />

unharness the mules, irrigate, plow, rake,<br />

disc,” etc.<br />

“My vocabulary was non-existent along<br />

those lines, so I visited Mr. Santos Lozano, Sr.,<br />

at his mercantile establishment in Harlingen.<br />

He painstakingly and patiently wrote out<br />

what I had to teach, and I worked with the<br />

new farmers until they could give instructions<br />

to their Mexican workers.”<br />

After the land development days, the large<br />

clubhouse was home to a variety of<br />

commercial firms and private owners. Still an<br />

attractive landmark on Business Highway 83<br />

just west of Harlingen, it is a reminder of the<br />

free-wheeling days of the early 1900s when<br />

Midwestern farmers were lured to the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

by land developers with promises of a<br />

fabulous future in a virgin land.<br />

LA FERIA:<br />

AN INDIAN FAIRGROUND<br />

When the railroad reached the site of La Feria<br />

near the Hidalgo County line in 1904, no<br />

provision had been made for a town. Today’s La<br />

Feria had its beginnings in 1909, though<br />

tradition says that centuries earlier Spanish<br />

explorers wandered up the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and<br />

heard music coming from a celebration. What<br />

they found was a group of friendly Indians<br />

having a party. The explorers, according to<br />

popular history, joined the celebration and the<br />

following day left the newly named Los Llanos de<br />

la Feria—The Plains of the Fairgrounds without<br />

incident or trouble. Like the efficient explorers<br />

that they were, the Spaniards charted the area<br />

and sent the maps to Mexico City where they<br />

were officially recorded. The name stuck.<br />

In 1790 the La Feria Grant was conveyed<br />

by Spain to Doña Rosa María Hinojosa de<br />

Ballí, matriarch of a pioneer Reynosa family,<br />

which was awarded several large grants. In<br />

1841 Yrineo Longoria bought twenty-four<br />

square leagues of land from the Ballí family,<br />

and he and his descendants ranched in the<br />

area. One of his descendants, Rosalio Ponce<br />

Longoria, built the first house in La Feria in<br />

1909, which was dedicated with a Texas<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Building Medallion in 1974. The<br />

Longoria land included what is now Santa<br />

Rosa, La Feria, and Bluetown.<br />

Ranches dotted the area, and it is said that<br />

horse racing and fiestas were held in September<br />

of each year until about 1900. There were no<br />

palm trees, flowering shrubs, vegetables,<br />

cotton, grain and citrus orchards as there are<br />

today. There were cacti, mesquite, and grass<br />

enough for goats, sheep, and Longhorn cattle.<br />

All of that changed when a group of<br />

developers from Minneapolis, Minnesota, led<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Leeland-Stuart Place<br />

Clubhouse, pictured in 1967, has been<br />

through many reincarnations and owners<br />

since early homeseekers were entertained<br />

there. It is still an impressive landmark.<br />

Below: The La Feria Hotel built in 1910 by<br />

pioneer developer S. J. Schnorenberg<br />

became a community gathering place.<br />

COURTESY OF THE DUNLAP FAMILY.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

119


✧<br />

Right: Standing in front of La Feria’s first<br />

bank in 1920 are (from left to right) Bailey<br />

H. Dunlap, Sr., president; Laura Wehmeyer,<br />

bookkeeper; Freda Wehmeyer, secretary, and<br />

Dave W. Sigler, cashier.<br />

COURTESY OF THE DUNLAP FAMILY.<br />

Below: A. F. “Al” Parker established the Al<br />

Parker Securities Company and sold many<br />

thousands of acres of land and citrus groves,<br />

entertaining land parties at his clubhouse on<br />

La Feria’s Parker Road. It was purchased in<br />

1946 by McHenry Tichenor, who lived there<br />

for fifty years. While he lived there,<br />

Tichenor established KGBT Radio and TV.<br />

He also saw the Tichenor Media System,<br />

now based in Dallas, grow to over thirty<br />

radio stations throughout the U.S., including<br />

three in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

by S. J. Schnorenberg bought a six thousandacre<br />

strip of land one half-mile wide and<br />

extending north eighteen miles from the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. In 1909, they formed the La Feria<br />

Townsite Company, sold lots, and the town<br />

began to develop. But there was a problem<br />

with a whistlestop named Bixby about two<br />

miles west, named for W. H. Bixby, a St. Louis<br />

multi-millionaire who owned a lot of stock in<br />

the railroad. The settlement had little but a<br />

depot, but all legal means failed to get the<br />

railroad to move the depot to La Feria.<br />

From a story in a May 1987 issue of La<br />

Feria News by Eddie Gathings McNail:<br />

In July 1912, on a hot, sultry night, a<br />

group of prominent men stole the Bixby<br />

Station while the town folk of La Feria and<br />

Bixby were fast asleep. Men operated heavy<br />

jacks, raising Bixby’s new depot off the<br />

foundation, letting the building down on<br />

rollers on a makeshift platform and rolling it<br />

to a flat car on the tracks of the railroad. The<br />

men talked in whispers as they worked on this<br />

moonless night, and other men stood on the<br />

dusty road to keep watch for travelers who<br />

might interrupt the business at hand.<br />

After loading the new depot, two teams of<br />

horses were hitched to the flat car and pulled<br />

it east two miles to La Feria, where the depot<br />

was unloaded. Only the word “Bixby” had to<br />

be changed to ‘La Feria’ and our town had a<br />

permanent stop for all trains, passenger and<br />

freight. Before that time, a mailbag was hung<br />

out on a high post and removed by a member<br />

of the train’s crew, but no stop was made for<br />

passengers or freight.<br />

Once it had a depot, town lots and farms<br />

sold rapidly. Citrus groves, vegetable farms,<br />

shipping and packing plants were established.<br />

Schnorenberg built the fourteen-room La<br />

Feria Hotel in 1910, and Bailey H. Dunlap<br />

and others established the Guaranty Fund<br />

Bank of La Feria in 1913.<br />

Dunlap, who became the first mayor when<br />

the town was incorporated in 1915, is<br />

remembered by the Bailey H. Dunlap<br />

Memorial Library, and his descendants<br />

continue to be community leaders.<br />

La Feria and the <strong>Valley</strong> bloomed big, but<br />

then came the depression, which slowed<br />

things down. Freezing weather wiped out<br />

millions of dollars worth of citrus and<br />

vegetables in 1949 and 1951, then again in<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

120


1962, leaving processing plants empty.<br />

Hurricanes in 1933 and 1967 did their<br />

damage with high winds and floodwaters.<br />

Setbacks, surely, but recovery came and<br />

brought with it diversification and new<br />

business activity.<br />

Today, La Feria is blooming again. Winter<br />

visitors are changing their status to <strong>Valley</strong><br />

residents and young couples are settling in the<br />

area as in bygone years. Its central location<br />

and elevation make it ideal for the location of<br />

television and radio towers, which dot the<br />

landscape. Its school district is regarded as one<br />

of the finest in south Texas. Residents enjoy its<br />

quiet streets, well-manicured parks, active<br />

church and social clubs, central location,<br />

stable city government, friendly people, and<br />

the advantages of small town living.<br />

SANTA ROSA:<br />

THE LITTLE CITY ON A HILL<br />

Santa Rosa is 6.8 miles north of La Feria<br />

where there is a slight rise in elevation to 50.6<br />

feet. The name comes from the old Santa Rosa<br />

Ranch that was established there in the 1860s.<br />

The present community began in 1913 with<br />

a population of one. William Foster hoofed his<br />

way north from La Feria on the five-foot wide<br />

trail through brush and the slush of Tio Cano<br />

Lake, which long ago disappeared. When he<br />

reached the summit of the climb, he was so<br />

taken with the fertile soil and the scenic beauty,<br />

or perhaps he was so tired, that he threw out<br />

his anchor to make it his home. He spread the<br />

word and soon the population numbered three<br />

when he was joined by friends Tom Sibson and<br />

Lew Priest. More hardy pioneers followed,<br />

including the McAllister family. To save the<br />

fourteen-mile round trip walk to La Feria, Mrs.<br />

McAllister opened a grocery and market in the<br />

front room of her residence and other stores<br />

soon followed.<br />

In 1914 a one-room school was established<br />

for the younger students, but the older<br />

students were sent to Mercedes, where they<br />

boarded on a weekly basis. On Mondays they<br />

crossed Tio Cano Lake by boat, then walked<br />

to La Feria, where they caught the train to<br />

Mercedes for the week. Friday afternoon<br />

found them making the same trip home by<br />

train, foot, and boat. In 1915 Methodists built<br />

a one-room building that was used for<br />

church, public school and all community<br />

meetings. The Southern Pacific Railroad came<br />

through Santa Rosa in 1927, built a depot in<br />

the town, and soon produce sheds were built<br />

alongside the tracks for the vegetables grown<br />

by area farmers.<br />

The La Feria Water District’s irrigation<br />

system supplied water to farmers lured to the<br />

area by the Al Parker Land Company that<br />

settled La Feria. Three and four crops of<br />

vegetables per year were growing on the<br />

farms, and the first issue of the Santa Rosa<br />

Signal appeared in 1927, edited with wit and<br />

wisdom by Tom Phillips until 1938.<br />

A double celebration was held on March<br />

12, 1928 for the dedication of the new Santa<br />

Rosa High School and the opening of the<br />

✧<br />

Above: This Santa Rosa High School was<br />

dedicated in 1928, and the school had a<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>wide championship football team that<br />

same year. A new high school was built in<br />

recent years and this school now houses<br />

younger students.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WIEGAND FAMILY.<br />

Below: By 1930 the Wilcoxon Grocery and<br />

four other stores occupied a city block, all<br />

damaged by the 1933 hurricane. Tom<br />

Sibson, one of Santa Rosa’s founding citizens<br />

and its first mayor, built a two-story hotel so<br />

schoolteachers would have a place to stay,<br />

which has been renovated and turned into<br />

the Sun Deck Apartments.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WIEGAND FAMILY.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

121


✧<br />

Above: American <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Land and<br />

Irrigation Co. office is shown in the early<br />

days of building the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong>’s irrigation<br />

system and selling land.<br />

COURTESY OF HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The Frederick George Karle family,<br />

early Mercedes area pioneers are shown in<br />

a horse-drawn surrey around 1910 in<br />

downtown Mercedes. His grandson, Fred<br />

Karle of McAllen, is a longtime volunteer<br />

with the steer division at the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Livestock Show.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Santa Rosa to La Feria highway. The high<br />

school had a <strong>Valley</strong>wide champion football<br />

team in 1928, and the schools have continued<br />

their upward climb through the years.<br />

Santa Rosa was incorporated in 1929 with<br />

Tom Sibson, one of its founding citizens, as its<br />

first mayor. He also had established its first<br />

vegetable canning plant in 1915 and later built<br />

a two-story hotel. Other business buildings<br />

were constructed, and packing sheds took<br />

over the north side of the Southern Pacific<br />

tracks. At one time Santa Rosa had ten packing<br />

sheds, but the 1933 hurricane reduced the<br />

number to three. In 1940, C. A. Ripley opened<br />

a large vegetable packing shed from which<br />

over twenty-six hundred carloads of<br />

vegetables were shipped in its peak year.<br />

Santa Rosa citizens boast that the first<br />

telephone dial service in the <strong>Valley</strong> was<br />

installed in their town in December 1944.<br />

When Mayor Albert Thompson and others<br />

saw the need of a sewer system in 1958 and<br />

consulted an engineer about how to proceed,<br />

they were told it couldn’t be done. But the<br />

mayor and his supporters thought it could,<br />

and on April 20, 1963, a celebration was held<br />

to mark the completion of the town’s water<br />

and sewer service.<br />

Santa Rosa remains the center of an<br />

extensive farming community with its local<br />

government, schools, churches and other<br />

institutions firmly in place. It is near the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers big sugar mill,<br />

which is a major employer. There have been<br />

great changes in agriculture since the early<br />

days of three and four vegetable crops a year.<br />

Now the fertile farmland is covered with level<br />

fields of cotton, grain sorghum, corn, and<br />

sugarcane. If William Foster were around<br />

today, he probably would still cast his lot with<br />

the “little city on a hill.”<br />

MERCEDES:<br />

FIRST ON BRANCH LINE<br />

On July 8, 1904, the railroad was<br />

completed to the present location of Mercedes,<br />

which was the first town to be built on the<br />

branch line. Lon C. Hill, developer of<br />

Harlingen, had bought the forty-fivethousand-acre<br />

Capisallo Ranch from Jim Wells<br />

of Brownsville and organized the Capisallo<br />

Town and Improvement Company. He laid out<br />

the townsite of Capisallo, soon renamed it<br />

Lonsboro, and in 1905 sold the land to a<br />

group of St. Louis investors. They were B. F.<br />

Yoakum, Sam Fordyce, Duval West, and S. P.<br />

Silver, who organized the American <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Land and Irrigation Company, bought<br />

more land, and developed 110,000 acres.<br />

The new owners decided to move the<br />

townsite two miles to the west and the name<br />

Lonsboro was changed to Mercedes. Though<br />

many accounts say it was named for the wife<br />

of Mexican President Porfirio Díaz, neither of<br />

his two wives was named Mercedes, so the<br />

origin of the name is unknown.<br />

In 1905 the company began construction on<br />

the main canal—145 feet wide and 15 to 20 feet<br />

deep. By 1908 the big canal was completed from<br />

the river to six miles north of Mercedes, along<br />

with laterals to deliver water to the farms. At first<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

122


the center of the town was at the tracks, where a<br />

string of boxcars served as headquarters for the<br />

company management and engineers. Soon,<br />

houses and businesses were built and within a<br />

year the population was one thousand. The city<br />

was incorporated on March 6, 1909. The yearold<br />

Hidalgo County Bank had $100,000 in<br />

deposits, there was a weekly newspaper, The<br />

Tribune, later combined with the Mercedes<br />

Enterprise, which is still published, plus many<br />

new homes and businesses.<br />

The new settlers, many of them from the<br />

hog and corn country of the Midwest, had to<br />

learn when to plant tomatoes, cabbage, carrots,<br />

broomcorn, and later citrus and cotton, plus<br />

the different methods of cultivation and insect<br />

control. Somehow they weathered the<br />

hardships and the new town grew and<br />

prospered. It became a center for packing and<br />

shipping the agricultural products raised on<br />

the virgin land of the newly cleared farms.<br />

The original irrigation company continued<br />

to function until January 1930, when the<br />

landowners voted to purchase the system with<br />

a bond issue of $3.5 million. Now the Hidalgo<br />

and Cameron County Water Control and<br />

Improvement District No. 9, it is the largest<br />

district in the <strong>Valley</strong>. It serves eighty-two<br />

thousand acres in the Mercedes, Weslaco,<br />

Edcouch-Elsa, and La Villa areas from its<br />

historic headquarters in Mercedes. Concretelined<br />

canals and underground pipelines have<br />

replaced most earthen canals.<br />

Livestock and related products are important<br />

to Mercedes. It is the home of one of the<br />

state’s top ten livestock shows, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Livestock Show, established in 1940. It<br />

takes more than one thousand volunteers to<br />

put on the show in March each year and<br />

attracts over 160,000 visitors. The weeklong<br />

celebration provides a yearlong educational<br />

program and showplace for 4-H and FFA<br />

youngsters of the four <strong>Valley</strong> counties. It also<br />

provides entertainment for both young people<br />

and adults. Its Sixty-first Annual <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Livestock Show in March 2000 broke<br />

all records for its auction, with the <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Champion Steer bringing $21,000.<br />

Scholarships totaling $31,100 were awarded<br />

to students by its Champs for Champions<br />

program and the show board.<br />

Nationally honored H&H Foods, which has<br />

operated successfully in Mercedes since 1947,<br />

has positioned itself on the cutting edge of<br />

technology for producing and distributing its<br />

quality meats and prepared foods. Founded by<br />

Salvador M. Hinojosa and still family-owned,<br />

H&H is the city’s largest private employer.<br />

Rubén Hinojosa, one of Salvador’s sons, has<br />

served as U.S. congressman from the Fifteenth<br />

District since 1996.<br />

Mercedes is also known for its bootmakers.<br />

The largest is <strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes, which has<br />

provided handmade boots to famous people<br />

from Dwight Yoakum to Dwight Eisenhower<br />

as well as to working cowboys. The boots are<br />

works of proud craftsmen with years of<br />

experience, using only the best materials.<br />

Many other Mercedes businesses are into the<br />

second and third generation of family<br />

ownership, such as Borderland Hardware and<br />

Bill Bunton Auto Supply and Machine, Inc.<br />

Additional businesses are calling its new fiftyacre<br />

Mercedes Industrial Park home.<br />

Just west of town is the headquarters of<br />

Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative, which<br />

✧<br />

Above: Since it began in 1940, the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Livestock Show has focused<br />

on youth education in livestock activities. Its<br />

2000 Grand Champion Steer was shown by<br />

Raul Villarreal, Jr., of San Isidro FFA. It was<br />

purchased by James L. Barrett of Oklahoma<br />

City, owner of Stars Drive-In Restaurants,<br />

for $21,000, which broke all previous<br />

records. Shown in this picture are (from left<br />

to right) <strong>Valley</strong> Stars managers Ruben<br />

Garza; Joe Vargas, and wife Sylvia; and Leo<br />

Garza, Jr.; Villarreal, and Cover Girl Second<br />

Runner-up Sara Mae Alvarez, San Isidro.<br />

COURTESY OF THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY LIVESTOCK SHOW.<br />

Below: H&H Foods was founded by<br />

Salvador M. Hinojosa, who came with his<br />

family from Reynosa as a young boy during<br />

the Mexican upheaval of 1910-20. He<br />

founded H&H as a small meat processing<br />

company in 1947. Still family-owned,<br />

H&H meats are widely distributed in the<br />

U.S., Mexico, and other countries.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

123


✧<br />

Above: Borderland Hardware of Mercedes,<br />

founded in 1919 by E. E. "Jack" Johnson,<br />

soon became the largest store in town. Now<br />

owned by Robert Eilers and son Kenneth, it<br />

recently moved to its new home on a busy<br />

Mercedes corner. Johnson also established<br />

Borderland Hardware of Weslaco, now<br />

operated by his grandson, David Whitley.<br />

Below: Before there was a post office at<br />

Mercedes or Weslaco, there was one at<br />

Progreso. The Progreso Post Office (1903-<br />

1910) was located on Toluca Ranch close to<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and was constructed like<br />

many contemporary Mexican homes. A.<br />

Newman Smith was the postmaster. It was<br />

razed because of potential attacks during<br />

the bandit wars and it was later<br />

reestablished in the town of Progreso.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

provides electric power to rural areas of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s four counties. Also a mile to the west<br />

are two of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s magnet schools, the<br />

South Texas Independent School District’s<br />

School for Health Professions and its School<br />

for Math and Sciences, which attract students<br />

from over the <strong>Valley</strong>. Mercedes has many<br />

attractive neighborhoods, excellent schools<br />

and beautiful churches, two 18-hole golf<br />

courses, and just five miles south is the tourist<br />

haven of Nuevo Progreso, Mexico.<br />

Though the city’s growth slowed for several<br />

decades after its early years of feverish activity,<br />

Mercedes enters the new millennium strong<br />

and competitive with vigorous leadership, an<br />

aggressive business environment, and a<br />

diverse culture.<br />

WESLACO IN THE MID- VALLEY<br />

The railroad reached the future site of<br />

Weslaco on July 20, 1904, but it would be<br />

nearly sixteen years before the town was<br />

established. Mercedes and Donna were<br />

bustling cities by 1919 when W. E. Stewart of<br />

Tyler, who had a land office in Kansas City,<br />

Missouri, purchased a large tract from the<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Grant. He built a beautiful<br />

clubhouse on Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Lake to house and<br />

entertain land excursion parties while selling<br />

the uncleared, brush-covered farmland. Four<br />

men—Ed C. Couch, his brothers Dan R. and<br />

R. C., and a brother-in-law, R. L. Reeves—<br />

purchased a block of Stewart’s holdings for a<br />

new town and named their new town for him,<br />

using the first letters that made up the W. E.<br />

Stewart Land Company-Weslaco.<br />

Two of the developers, Dan and R. C.<br />

Couch, gave up the venture as a bad<br />

investment and returned to their homes,<br />

telling the others that they “would keep the<br />

home fires burning while you go broke down<br />

here.” But Ed C. Couch and Reeves put down<br />

roots in Weslaco and helped to build their<br />

new community.<br />

A surveying crew staked out business and<br />

residential lots and an all-day auction was<br />

held on December 10, 1919. The lots were<br />

tagged, with prices ranging from $50 to about<br />

$400 a lot. By the end of the day, many of the<br />

lots had been sold and the new town was<br />

launched. The founders reserved land for<br />

churches and parks, schools, and a city hall.<br />

Offices of the Weslaco Townsite were set<br />

up in the first Reeves home less than two<br />

months after the lot sale. In later years, Mrs.<br />

Reeves liked to tell how she sat alone on a nail<br />

keg by a campfire her first night in Weslaco<br />

while her husband went to Mercedes to bring<br />

back their household goods to their newly<br />

completed home. When the post office<br />

opened a few months later, she became the<br />

town’s first postmaster, and she served her<br />

adopted home in many ways throughout her<br />

long life.<br />

The Couch home was completed one week<br />

later and was the focal point for much of the<br />

town’s early development. Ed Couch was<br />

president of the city’s first financial institution,<br />

the Guaranty State Bank, and helped organize<br />

the Chamber of Commerce that year.<br />

Meanwhile, others came to try their luck<br />

in the new town which lacked electricity,<br />

churches, and schools. Life was primitive as far<br />

as modern-day conveniences were concerned.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

124


✧<br />

Top, left: Robert L. Reeves, co-founder of<br />

Weslaco, put down roots in his new town<br />

and helped it grow. Later he was active in<br />

real estate and insurance partnerships.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

Residents bought water from men hauling<br />

barrels of water from the canal on burro-drawn<br />

tank carts. Yet, the young came to find a place to<br />

begin their working lives, and older ones came to<br />

meet new challenges in a warmer environment.<br />

Weslaco was only a few weeks old when the<br />

S. M. Mattar family bought a site and opened<br />

the first store in the new town, called “The<br />

People’s Store,” later known as “Mattar’s Store<br />

for Men.” They continued as merchants<br />

through two generations. Soon A. G. “Tony”<br />

Valdes, Sr., opened the Model Drug Store, and<br />

his grandson, Hector “Buddy” de la Rosa<br />

continues to operate pharmacies in Weslaco<br />

and nearby cities.<br />

By 1922 the town was booming and its<br />

school population growing. Carpenters,<br />

plasterers and painters were working on the<br />

new high school. Young science teacher Olga<br />

Arnold arrived in September 1922 to teach at<br />

the new school that had been scheduled for<br />

completion in September, but it rained so much<br />

that it was not finished until the next February.<br />

Many years later, an older Olga<br />

remembered that mud, thick, deep, black and<br />

sticky, was everywhere on the unpaved streets.<br />

And it was a cold winter, with no heat in the<br />

old Weslaco Hotel where she was staying or in<br />

the classrooms. She moved to the Reeves<br />

home, which was across the street from the<br />

Walter H. Baxter family. Soon she met Walter<br />

Jr., and the mud was forgotten, the new school<br />

completed, and her name changed to Baxter.<br />

He established the Baxter Seed Company,<br />

which is still providing seed for the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

vegetable growers.<br />

The four-story Cortez Hotel was opened with<br />

great fanfare on December 31, 1928, to become<br />

the area’s showplace and center of social<br />

activities. One year, the Ipana Troubadours<br />

played for a gala dance in its spacious secondfloor<br />

ballroom.<br />

In December 1929 the young city held its<br />

first big birthday party, a tradition that<br />

continued into the 1960s except during World<br />

War II. Elaborate floats, marching bands, and<br />

many novel entries sparked its parades, and its<br />

nationally recognized “Fruit, Vegetable and<br />

Flower Show” kept organizations busy for<br />

months preparing the elaborate costumes made<br />

of <strong>Valley</strong> products.<br />

In its early days, the city’s activities centered<br />

around agriculture and the marketing of the<br />

crops raised on the fertile soil. The produce<br />

business lured many entrepreneurs like<br />

Mississippian J. S. McManus, whose produce<br />

company still operates from Weslaco, and Joe<br />

Stephens from Ohio, who began a crusade<br />

to beautify the city while mayor from 1963<br />

to 1971.<br />

Top, right: Weslaco co-founder Ed C. Couch<br />

and Reeves organized the auction to sell the<br />

townsite lots on December 10, 1919. A<br />

banker, Couch was active in several area<br />

banks as well as in public life. He also was<br />

the founder of the town of Edcouch in 1927.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Almeda Couch Reeves, originally<br />

from Abilene, was the wife of Weslaco cofounder<br />

Robert L. Reeves. She became the<br />

town’s first postmaster and served the<br />

community in many other ways.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

125


✧<br />

Above: The Weslaco Hotel was built in 1920<br />

by R. L. Clark, who operated it until it was<br />

sold to Porter Doss, who donated money for<br />

the city’s first library. Torn down in 1971, it<br />

was replaced by a new bank building, now<br />

the home of City National Bank.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Texsun Citrus Corporation, which<br />

started as the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Citrus<br />

Exchange to market fresh fruit, grew into<br />

the huge Texsun plant, once the world’s<br />

largest citrus juice canning plant. It was a<br />

major employer, operating for several<br />

decades before repeated freezes ended its<br />

fruit supply.<br />

The former Texsun citrus canning complex,<br />

which had ten acres under roof during the<br />

years of heavy citrus production, was a major<br />

industry for many years. When the plant<br />

closed after a series of freezes left little citrus<br />

for it to process, the land and buildings were<br />

purchased by the City of Weslaco. It is now the<br />

home of the city’s International Venture Center<br />

and the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> campus of South Texas<br />

Community College.<br />

Knapp is a name that has spread over the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> from Weslaco. Everett Knapp came first<br />

from Calvert, Texas, to establish a car<br />

dealership. His brothers and sisters followed,<br />

and soon the Knapps had car dealerships in<br />

several <strong>Valley</strong> cities. They formed the Knapp<br />

Family Foundation to launch the onehundred-bed<br />

Knapp Medical Center in the<br />

early1960s, now grown to 233 private rooms<br />

and the centerpiece for scores of clinics and<br />

medical offices. Also built in the 1960s was the<br />

big retirement center first known as Wesley<br />

Manor and now named John Knox Village<br />

which attracts retirees from over the nation.<br />

Ed Payne started the Payne Motor<br />

Company; now his sons’ Payne Dealer Group<br />

has dealerships over the <strong>Valley</strong>. Dale Davis, a<br />

third generation realtor who learned real<br />

estate development skills during several years<br />

in Dallas, returned to the family firm to bring<br />

Luby’s Cafeteria, a Super K-Mart, Weslaco<br />

Town Center offices, and Fairfield Marriott<br />

Hotel in recent years. Larry and Patti<br />

Dittburner have changed the face of the city<br />

with their renovation of the aging Cortez<br />

Hotel into the distinctive Villa de Cortez and<br />

their transformation of other old downtown<br />

buildings from eyesores to assets.<br />

The Miguel Benitez family operated<br />

theaters from Weslaco from the 1920s to the<br />

1970s. Beginning with “The Iris” and “The<br />

Nacional” in Weslaco, they showed Spanish<br />

language films in Benitez theaters and driveins<br />

throughout the <strong>Valley</strong> and South Texas.<br />

During the Mexican Cinema’s “Golden Age”<br />

they brought famous actors and actresses to<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> for premiere showings.<br />

Many businesses have come and gone along<br />

Weslaco’s Texas Avenue. One that came and<br />

stayed is La Perla Florería and Yerbería. It began<br />

when Reducindo Olivarez and his wife moved<br />

from Camargo and opened a bakery and<br />

tortilleria. In the 1930s, with daughter Ophelia<br />

and her husband, Guadalupe Hinojosa, they<br />

moved to their present North Texas location<br />

and added other items. The family store is now<br />

operated by Ophelia Hinojosa and daughter<br />

Olga H. Lopez.<br />

Weslaco is home to the Texas A&M<br />

Experiment Station, Texas A&M-Kingsville<br />

Citrus Center, and the USDA’s Kika de la<br />

Garza Subtropical Research Center. Many new<br />

agricultural breakthroughs and varieties of<br />

fruits, vegetables, cotton, sugarcane, and<br />

ornamental plants have been developed and<br />

tested at the big research complex, staffed by<br />

more than a hundred research scientists.<br />

Weslaco also is home to KRGV-TV, South<br />

Texas Better Business Bureau, the Texas<br />

National Guard Super Armory, and the<br />

Weslaco Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Airport that serves the<br />

needs of private and corporate entities. The <strong>Rio</strong><br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

126


<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership has called Weslaco<br />

home since it was organized as the Lower <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Planning Board in 1944 by<br />

Lloyd Bentsen, Sr. and others. It became the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce and<br />

then the Partnership. It has sponsored many<br />

projects and activities through the years in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and Mexico.<br />

The area’s agricultural heritage is celebrated<br />

in April each year with the Texas <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Onion Festival at Weslaco’s<br />

Harlon Block Park with an arts and crafts<br />

show, onion eating contest, food booths, and<br />

entertainment for visitors of all ages. The<br />

Weslaco Public Library is widely used by<br />

adults and has many educational and recreational<br />

programs for children.<br />

The Weslaco Bicultural Museum preserves<br />

Weslaco’s history. It has an extensive collection<br />

of artifacts, written documents, photographs,<br />

household items and vintage clothing.<br />

Its exhibits emphasize the area’s farming<br />

history, and its special programs are popular<br />

with children and adults. The museum is<br />

transitioning to the Agriculture Discovery<br />

Center to be built adjacent to USDA headquarters<br />

in the research complex.<br />

As Weslaco’s population has grown, so have<br />

its churches, schools, social services, and health<br />

care facilities. It is a major winter resort, hosting<br />

several thousand Winter Texans in its hotels,<br />

apartments, mobile home and RV parks, and<br />

two golf courses attract golfers from over the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. Nuevo Progreso offers the Mexico<br />

experience just seven miles south across the<br />

Progreso International Bridge. The city is part of<br />

the World Birding Center and birdwatchers will<br />

find three sites on the Great Texas Birding Trail.<br />

Now the largest city in the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong>, Weslaco’s<br />

stable government and vibrant business<br />

community have fostered rapid growth while<br />

retaining a small-town atmosphere.<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Knapp Medical Center has<br />

grown from the hundred-bed, one-story<br />

Knapp Memorial Methodist Hospital to<br />

the present Knapp Medical Center. The<br />

present multi-story hospital has 233 private<br />

rooms plus out-patient, emergency, and<br />

related facilities.<br />

Above: The two-story Weslaco City Hall<br />

was built in 1928. It was designed by<br />

architect Newell Waters, who dropped the<br />

casts for the stone sculpture designs into<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> to avoid having the work<br />

duplicated. Remodeled in 1951, it still<br />

contains some of the city offices and a<br />

fire station.<br />

Below: John Knox Village retirement center<br />

began in the 1960s as Wesley Manor under<br />

the sponsorship of the Methodist Church. As<br />

John Knox Village it has added a medical<br />

center for its residents and continues to add<br />

cottages. Its residents come from all over the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and around the nation.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

127


THE SETTLEMENT OF RUN<br />

✧<br />

Above: Thomas James Handy, originally<br />

from Wisconsin, came to the area after the<br />

Civil War as a mail carrier for the Union<br />

Occupation Forces and married Angelita<br />

Cavazos. They are shown with their first<br />

child, Chauncey Handy, in the late 1860s<br />

at Azadores Ranch. Generations later,<br />

Donna has many Handy descendants,<br />

including Hidalgo County Commissioner<br />

Sylvia Handy.<br />

COURTESY OF DONNA HOOKS FLETCHER<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Co-founder T. J. Hooks and his<br />

family lived in Brownsville until their home<br />

was built in Run, later moving to Donna,<br />

pictured about 1914. Hooks had four sons<br />

and four daughters, including Donna Hooks<br />

Fletcher, for whom Donna was named.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

When the railroad arrived at the Donna<br />

townsite in July 1904, a settlement was<br />

already under development six miles south by<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. A. F. Hester, Sr., and T. J.<br />

Hooks, rice farmers and community leaders in<br />

Village Mills near Beaumont, first visited the<br />

Brownsville area in the late 1890s and<br />

believed the region had great potential.<br />

Though sparsely settled, there were<br />

established ranching families in the area.<br />

Some were descendants of the original<br />

grantee, Lino Cavazos of Reynosa, who was<br />

awarded the La Blanca Tract by the State of<br />

Tamaulipas in 1834 for $150. One of these<br />

was Angelita Cavazos Gallegos, who married<br />

Thomas J. Handy, a Wisconsin native who<br />

served in the Union Occupation Forces as a<br />

mail carrier in the <strong>Valley</strong>. Many Handy<br />

descendants still live in the Donna area.<br />

The Beaumont group returned in 1898 to<br />

seek land for possible development, bringing<br />

with them several friends and investors: Dr.<br />

W. G. Collier, W. W. Cruse, W. H. Turner, and<br />

family physician Dr. J. B. Roberts. They<br />

traveled by rail to Alice, then hired a coach to<br />

take them to Brownsville through the sands of<br />

the old Alice to Brownsville Stagecoach Road<br />

and across the Arroyo Colorado by way of a<br />

hand drawn ferry at Paso Real. They spent the<br />

nights at ranches and way stations. In<br />

Brownsville the group was joined by Lon C.<br />

Hill, who had been buying land on business<br />

trips to the <strong>Valley</strong> and knew his way around.<br />

It took them two days to travel by horseback<br />

through dense growth the fifty or so miles to<br />

the San Juan Plantation owned by John<br />

Closner, who had options on much of the<br />

surrounding land.<br />

The developers liked the lands of the La<br />

Blanca and Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Tracts along the<br />

river and formed the La Blanca Agricultural<br />

Company to acquire acreage. The land<br />

extended about two miles east and two miles<br />

west of the present site of Donna and eighteen<br />

miles northward to the present site of La<br />

Blanca. The price averaged $1.25 per acre. At<br />

the time, the area had been in a severe<br />

drought for seven years, and food was scarce<br />

for the scattered ranch families. The first act<br />

of the new owners upon their return to East<br />

Texas was to ship back two carloads of rice by<br />

rail to Galveston, boat to Point Isabel, narrowgauge<br />

railway to Brownsville, and oxcart up<br />

the Military Road. This kindness created a<br />

lasting bond of friendship with those already<br />

living on the land.<br />

It was March 1902 by the time deeds were<br />

prepared to convey some 30,000 acres to the<br />

company, plus some acreage for each family’s<br />

individual property. Hooks moved his family,<br />

with four sons and four daughters, to<br />

Brownsville in 1901, shipping household goods<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

128


in the roundabout manner described above, as<br />

did the Hesters and their five children a year<br />

later. The Milton Holloway family, who had<br />

purchased four hundred acres adjacent to the<br />

La Blanca Tract, met the Hesters on the rough<br />

two-week voyage on the Manteo freight steamer<br />

that brought them from Galveston to<br />

Brownsville. The three families lived in<br />

Brownsville, where there were schools and<br />

other facilities, and the men lived in jacales on<br />

their land while clearing the brush for farming<br />

and building suitable homes for their families.<br />

The only road was the old Military Road, a<br />

trail often labeled on old maps as the “Military<br />

Telegraph Road.” It had been carved out of<br />

the brush by General Zachary Taylor’s army<br />

during the Mexican-American War. Later a<br />

telegraph line was stretched from <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City to Brownsville, linking Fort Ringgold to<br />

Fort Brown.<br />

George and Ed Ruthven, engineers who<br />

had been working in the <strong>Valley</strong> for several<br />

years, brought their families from Lexington<br />

to the settlement, which was named “Run,” a<br />

contraction formed by the first two letters and<br />

the last letter of the Ruthven name. The<br />

settlement is also spelled “Runn,” and the<br />

school shows that version of the name.<br />

George was responsible for installing<br />

irrigation pumps and keeping them working.<br />

Ed established the first store in 1904 a halfmile<br />

west of the current school and was<br />

named the first postmaster.<br />

The newcomers and the earlier residents<br />

shared in the development of the community.<br />

The Salinas family had a U.S. charter to<br />

operate a ferry at the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> crossing near<br />

the Donna irrigation pumps, according to a<br />

descendant, Alonzo Salinas, father of Daniel<br />

Salinas II, for whom Donna’s Daniel Salinas<br />

Boulevard is named. Both father and son were<br />

graduates of U.S. military academies. The<br />

Dionicio Muñoz family came to live on the<br />

Azadores Ranch around 1850. Their<br />

descendants have been a vital part of the area<br />

throughout its development and continue to<br />

take an active part in its educational<br />

institutions, business and community life.<br />

Severiano and Manuela Avila came to a ranch<br />

just south of Donna from Yorktown, Texas before<br />

1890 to establish a home near the river. The<br />

family included seven boys and three girls. The<br />

sons told of hunting in the Donna area with their<br />

father. They camped close to where the depot<br />

was built later and hunted small lions, deer,<br />

tigres (small jaguars), and javelina. When the<br />

1909 floodwater rose to the top of the window in<br />

their new home on Rancho Parajito, they left it to<br />

buy ten acres in East Donna. They brought two<br />

teams of mules, five cows, and some sheep with<br />

them. In East Donna there were a few jacales and<br />

much brush when the Avilas built a two-story<br />

home. Many descendants of the Avila family still<br />

reside in Donna.<br />

Other early residents of Run included<br />

Andrew Champion, Sr., and his wife Ellen,<br />

who had moved from Point Isabel to Santa<br />

María, where they had operated a general<br />

store for several years. When Ed Ruthven<br />

moved to Donna in 1906, Hester and Hooks<br />

asked the Champions to move to Run to serve<br />

as postmaster and operate its only grocery<br />

store. He and his son, Andrew Champion, Jr.,<br />

and other descendants have been active in<br />

Donna through the years.<br />

✧<br />

Top: This community well at Run provided<br />

water for area residents for many years.<br />

COURTESY OF DONNA HOOKS FLETCHER<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Above: The Andrew Champion, Sr. store and<br />

post office at Run in 1909.<br />

COURTESY OF DONNA HOOKS FLETCHER<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

129


fired in a kiln using mesquite wood. A. F.<br />

Hester built the next home, a large frame<br />

house with a porch all around the structure,<br />

using lumber brought in from East Texas.<br />

They moved from Brownsville to their new<br />

homes in 1904.<br />

The new farms were productive, especially<br />

for growing vegetables, for which there was a<br />

good market. Though rice had been the initial<br />

reason for the move, little rice was grown and<br />

attention shifted to other crops.<br />

School began in Run in 1904 in a room of<br />

the Hester home a mile south of the present<br />

Run school buildings. The Hesters’ eldest<br />

daughter, Mary, had completed her training at<br />

Texas Christian University and was the first<br />

teacher. A school built in 1908 was soon<br />

destroyed by the 1909 flood, but a new<br />

building soon replaced it.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Several decades after they left<br />

Beaumont for Run and Donna, co-founder A.<br />

F. Hester., Sr. and his wife, Mary Richardson<br />

Hester, seated at center, are surrounded by<br />

children, in-laws, and grandchildren.<br />

COURTESY OF DONNA HOOKS FLETCHER<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: The present elementary school at<br />

Runn (originally spelled Run) is part of the<br />

Donna Independent School District. Its<br />

campus has multiple buildings and<br />

individual garden plots that help students<br />

learn about growing vegetables and flowers.<br />

The members of the La Blanca Agricultural<br />

Company immediately set to work clearing the<br />

brush and cactus from their land, employing a<br />

great number of men. They encountered<br />

rattlesnakes, tarantulas, scorpions, and wild<br />

cats. Mule teams began digging a network of<br />

canals and ditches for what was to be the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

first irrigation system built for community use.<br />

A pump and boiler had been hauled by oxen<br />

from the boat landing in Point Isabel.<br />

The coming of the railroad made building<br />

materials available. T. J. Hooks built the first<br />

house of the new Run settlers, a two-story<br />

structure of brick made from river sand and<br />

THE<br />

1909 FLOOD<br />

In the early 1900s, the river was much<br />

different from today. Before the dams were built<br />

upriver, it usually overflowed once or twice a<br />

year. The largest flood ever known to occur on<br />

the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> struck in 1909. It was due<br />

to abnormally heavy rains falling in the<br />

watershed, coupled with a water spout<br />

dropping large amounts of water in Nuevo León<br />

in the watershed of the San Juan River, the last<br />

tributary that flows into the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. This<br />

flood was said to have exceeded the 1802 flood<br />

that destroyed Reynosa and resulted in that city<br />

being rebuilt on higher ground.<br />

When the floodwaters reached the Run<br />

area, the water rapidly rose to the top of the<br />

poles carrying the telegraph lines between<br />

Fort Ringgold and Fort Brown. A. F. Hester<br />

had obtained permission to tap into this communication<br />

line and had advance warning of<br />

the impending flood and that the crest could<br />

soon be expected in Run. He sent sons Forrest<br />

and Tom to warn the neighbors. As the waters<br />

continued to rise, they took a boat and began<br />

to rescue many of their neighbors that were<br />

stranded on the tops of houses, barns and<br />

trees. They took refuge in Donna, which had<br />

several buildings by that time and was the<br />

only area with any appreciable land not flooded.<br />

The flood damaged or destroyed many of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

130


Run’s homes and buildings, destroyed livestock,<br />

and spurred the move to the new<br />

Donna townsite. By 1914 most of the new settlers<br />

had relocated to homes in Donna where<br />

they began new businesses and continued<br />

their farming activities.<br />

Today, there is little evidence of the original<br />

settlement at Run. The fertile land is well farmed<br />

and the area is dotted with newer homes. The<br />

Run School, which was soon rebuilt after the<br />

first one was destroyed by the 1909 flood, has a<br />

historical marker showing the school was first<br />

established in 1904. Several new buildings have<br />

been added to the school campus in recent<br />

years. In 2000 the Run School received national<br />

recognition for its academic excellence and<br />

innovative programs, including individual<br />

garden plots that help students learn about<br />

growing vegetables and flowers.<br />

DONNA GREW AROUND<br />

THE RAILROAD<br />

Soon after the railroad was built through<br />

the present site of Donna in 1904, developers<br />

A. F. Hester, Sr., and T. J. Hooks, with railroad<br />

builder Uriah Lott, Harlingen founder Lon<br />

Hill, and others, formed the Lott Town and<br />

Improvement Company. The developers<br />

provided 1,000 acres for a townsite and<br />

deeded 1,600 acres to the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad, assuring the<br />

promise of a station, which was built in 1907.<br />

The new town needed a name. Lott<br />

suggested the name of “Donna” in honor of<br />

Hooks’ eldest daughter, Donna Hooks Fletcher,<br />

who was visiting in Beaumont at the time.<br />

When she returned on the new railroad for the<br />

first time, she was amazed to see her name<br />

painted on the shelter at the train stop as she<br />

reached her destination. This enterprising lady<br />

was to leave her mark on the new community<br />

in more ways than her name. She built the first<br />

office building, opened a small general store,<br />

operated a rooming house, and served for<br />

many years as the town’s postmistress. The<br />

Donna Hooks Fletcher <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum<br />

features local and pioneer memorabilia dating<br />

back to the 1800s. It is located on Main Street<br />

in the oldest American Legion Hall in the<br />

world, a Texas historical landmark.<br />

The town was slow to develop at first<br />

because of its lack of good drinking water, but<br />

when this was solved in 1908 with a water<br />

tower and filtration plant, the town took off.<br />

Farmland was sold to homeseekers from the<br />

north and businesses were quickly established<br />

in the town. Ed Ruthven opened a general<br />

store in 1908. In June 1910 Hester and Dr. J.<br />

B. Roberts announced that work was to begin<br />

on a large two story brick building for around<br />

$7,000. In June 1911 a telephone exchange<br />

was installed on its second floor by H. H.<br />

Ranking. Through the years the building<br />

would house many businesses, including<br />

✧<br />

Above: Donna Hooks Fletcher, for whom the<br />

city of Donna was named.<br />

Below: Hotel Donna was a favorite<br />

gathering place in Donna’s early days. It<br />

was later named the Plaza and then the<br />

Parkview Hotel before it was razed to make<br />

way for the Donna H-E-B store in the<br />

center of town.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

131


✧<br />

Above: The Donna Sugar Mill began<br />

operation in November 1912 and was the<br />

last of the early <strong>Valley</strong> sugar mills to close<br />

in 1922 when insects and low prices made<br />

the crop unprofitable.<br />

COURTESY OF DONNA HOOKS FLETCHER<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: School buses are pictured lined up in<br />

Donna in 1927.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

grocery and drug stores. Walter W. Weaver, Sr.,<br />

had his law office there, and around 1923 it<br />

became the E. Manautou Dry Goods business.<br />

Also in 1910, the La Blanca Agricultural<br />

Company began construction on the twostory,<br />

26-room Plaza Hotel, with a bank and<br />

offices on the first floor. The old hotel played<br />

a significant part in the development of the<br />

area, operating under the names of Donna<br />

Hotel, Plaza Hotel, and the Parkview. During<br />

the bandit raids of 1915-16, the women and<br />

children of the area spent sleepless nights in<br />

the hotel behind barricaded doors.<br />

Dionicio Muñoz delivered mail to the<br />

scattered residents of the Donna and Run<br />

communities. His son Candelario was the only<br />

veteran of Mexican-American heritage who was<br />

a charter member of Donna American Legion<br />

Border Post 107 when it was formed in 1919<br />

by World War I veterans, and he had the first<br />

silent movie theater in Donna.<br />

Hester, Hooks and others had formed the<br />

Arroyo Canal Company in 1903, later named<br />

the La Donna Canal Company, with $250,000<br />

in capital. It was irrigating twenty-five<br />

thousand acres by 1908, and canals continued<br />

to be built to serve more acreage. In 1914 area<br />

farmers formed the Donna Hidalgo County No.<br />

1 Irrigation District to purchase its canals,<br />

plants, and equipment. The district has<br />

modernized through the years and still serves<br />

the irrigation and domestic water needs of the<br />

farms and cities of its area.<br />

Sugarcane was a major crop for a time, as it<br />

was in several of the <strong>Valley</strong> communities.<br />

The Donna Sugar Mill was started in<br />

November 1912 and operated longer than any<br />

other sugar mill in the <strong>Valley</strong>, finally closing in<br />

1922 when insects and low prices made the<br />

crop unprofitable.<br />

The revolution in Mexico that began after<br />

President Porfirio Díaz fled to Spain in 1910<br />

affected the young town. U.S. Cavalry troops<br />

were sent in 1911 to protect the citizens from<br />

bandit raids and remained until late 1916.<br />

They made the people of the community feel<br />

safer, and some returned, such as Corporal E.<br />

A. Capen, to make their lives in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

By 1923 there had been a great deal of<br />

growth in its population and commerce, with<br />

two banks, auto dealers, retail stores,<br />

hardware stores and lumber companies, as<br />

well as packing and processing plants. At one<br />

time Donna had three cotton gins to handle<br />

its cotton acreage.<br />

Beginning in 1911 the newly organized<br />

Donna Women’s Club undertook such<br />

projects as the construction of a city park, a<br />

public library, and a new cemetery. Churches<br />

were organized.<br />

Donna’s first school was organized by<br />

Walter Snow, formerly of Texas Christian<br />

University, his daughter, and brother. In 1913<br />

Donna boasted the first state certified high<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

132


school in the <strong>Valley</strong>, and the Donna<br />

Independent School District’s staff and<br />

educational facilities have kept pace with<br />

other modern developments.<br />

In 1952, when Hidalgo County celebrated<br />

its Centennial, the town was called “a prosperous<br />

community of 8,000 persons nestled<br />

in the heart of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of<br />

Texas” by Mayor Dale Washburn and<br />

Commissioners P. R. Avila and A. F. Taormina.<br />

In 2000, Donna has a population of<br />

around 15,000 and has 3,000 mobile home<br />

and RV spaces in 45-plus parks to serve<br />

Winter Texans. The city is working to build a<br />

new international bridge across the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> to Río Bravo, Mexico to increase its<br />

international trade and tourism.<br />

The Donna Hooks Fletcher <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Museum has extensive displays of pictures<br />

and other memorabilia of the area’s early days,<br />

numerous exhibits, and programs for youth<br />

and adults.<br />

Many descendants of its founders and<br />

other early pioneers still live in Donna. They<br />

take great pride in the vision of their forefathers<br />

and are deeply devoted to their city, its<br />

heritage, and its future.<br />

ALAMO: NAMED FOR<br />

COTTONWOOD TREES<br />

In the Spanish era, the eastern part of<br />

Porción 72 was known to José María Ballí and<br />

his heirs as Agostedero del Àlamo or The<br />

Pasture of the Alamo, the Spanish word for<br />

cottonwood. Along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> these giant<br />

trees spread their cooling shade in the early<br />

days, but long before Alamo was settled they<br />

had been destroyed by floods. The city of<br />

Alamo was located on these lands and derives<br />

its name from the once famous trees.<br />

The Alamo of today began in 1902 when<br />

Peter Ebenezer Blalock and George T. Hawkins<br />

of Hattiesburg, Mississippi bought a tract of<br />

thirty-two thousand acres. It extended from<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> on the south to the eastern<br />

limits of San Juan on the west, to what is today<br />

called Border Road on the east. Blalock and<br />

Hawkins first dreamed of a great cattle ranch<br />

to rival the Santa Anita Ranch of the Youngs or<br />

the San Juanito Ranch of the McAllens in<br />

northwestern Hidalgo County. While they<br />

were waiting for the courts to establish their<br />

land titles, they built cattle loading facilities<br />

and a railroad station at a spot they named<br />

Ebenezer located on the new rail line.<br />

Then in 1909 John T. Beamer of<br />

Washington, Iowa and backers bought the<br />

land. They chartered the Alamo Land and<br />

Sugar Company, but before they could finish<br />

clearing the land titles (1909-1912), the<br />

bottom fell out of the sugar market and<br />

prospects for the sugar industry in the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

were uncertain. The company then contracted<br />

with the old Louisiana-<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Canal<br />

Company, now Hidalgo Water District No. 2,<br />

to supply water to their lands.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Donna Hooks Fletcher <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Museum celebrated Mexican Independence<br />

Day, Dieciséis de Septiembre 2000 with art<br />

exhibits, music, and a reception. Joe<br />

Hernandez, Jr., McAllen muralist and artist<br />

(center), tells Laura Lincoln, museum<br />

director and curator, and historian David<br />

Champion about his paintings.<br />

Below: Dr. Mannering and a friend venture<br />

into the crunchy white snow in downtown<br />

Alamo during a 1925 freeze. It has snowed<br />

a few times since, but this one stayed on the<br />

ground long enough to be photographed.<br />

COURTESY OF KEITH HACKLAND.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

133


them to keep the preferred name. The town<br />

was incorporated in April 1924.<br />

In 1972, Dorothy Lee Pope, a young<br />

schoolteacher and fourth generation citizen of<br />

Alamo, wrote of the early days of Alamo in<br />

Rainbow Era on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. She called the<br />

years 1910-1930 the “Rainbow Era,” as those<br />

were the years of the land developers, excursion<br />

trains, implementation of irrigation, and<br />

development of towns.<br />

A 1921 advertisement by the Swallow<br />

Company, which operated out of Kansas City,<br />

Missouri before moving its office to Alamo,<br />

promised:<br />

✧<br />

Above: Downtown Alamo around 1935.<br />

This is one of many historic photos that can<br />

be seen in the old Alamo Land and Sugar<br />

Company headquarters in downtown<br />

Alamo. The historic building has been<br />

carefully restored by Keith Hackland as the<br />

Alamo Inn Bed and Breakfast, with a<br />

meeting room and guest suites.<br />

COURTESY OF KEITH HACKLAND.<br />

Below: The First State Bank of Alamo<br />

opened its doors as a community bank in<br />

1920. Now the Alamo Bank of Texas, it has<br />

established branch banks in several cities<br />

over the <strong>Valley</strong> while maintaining<br />

its headquarters in downtown Alamo,<br />

where historic photographs of early Alamo<br />

are displayed.<br />

Early in 1915 the water began to flow in the<br />

area canals, and trainloads of homeseekers were<br />

brought in to the Ebenezer station, where<br />

barracks-type facilities were built to house and<br />

entertain them. Soon the country roads were<br />

dotted with the homes of farmers whose skill<br />

was directed to raising winter vegetables, citrus<br />

and cotton. Leading developers were Nick<br />

Doffing, Charles T. Knapp, R. B. Creager, S. C.<br />

Hawthorne, and C. H. Swallow, who managed<br />

the company for many years. His son, F. A.<br />

Swallow, helped clear and sell the land.<br />

In 1918 the company abandoned Ebenezer<br />

and moved a short distance eastward to a higher<br />

and well-drained site to locate their new city<br />

of Alamo. The Alamo Townsite Company was<br />

formed by C. H. Swallow and R. B. Creager,<br />

and soon most of the lots were sold. There was<br />

some confusion about the name. When Alamo<br />

applied for a post office, that department felt<br />

“Alamo” would be confused with the historic<br />

Alamo of San Antonio. So the name went from<br />

“Ebenezer” to “Forum” to “Swallow” and back<br />

to “Alamo” when the postal authorities allowed<br />

Health and Happiness await you in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> at Alamo, Texas.<br />

Would you care to pass the winter in a land<br />

fragrant with perfume of flowers and melodious<br />

with songs of birds?<br />

Would you care for a home in a land that<br />

yields a crop every month in the year?<br />

Join our next excursion to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and see this wonderful country. It will<br />

be worth your while. Farmers in that favored<br />

section are now marketing their roasting ears,<br />

spring vegetables, etc., which are bringing<br />

unusually large profits this year. Others are<br />

cultivating their cotton, broomcorn, sorghum,<br />

etc., which crops have made the <strong>Valley</strong> famous<br />

and the growers rich.<br />

Don’t fail to see the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It<br />

will be well worth your while. Any Swallow<br />

agent will be glad to give you all information<br />

as to movement of our special excursion<br />

trains, length of time each excursion remains<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong>, cost of trip, etc.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

134


Every two weeks we take a trainload of<br />

farmers, merchants, investors, down to this<br />

wonderful land. They start in doubt, they<br />

return convinced. Often every man in the<br />

train buys. So it must be good.<br />

This message was typical of the advertising<br />

campaigns of developers over the area, and the<br />

advertisements were effective. Land agents<br />

invaded the middle western states and recited<br />

the virtues of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. October<br />

through February were prime excursion months.<br />

The excursions took a tremendous amount of<br />

organization and were very expensive. The<br />

agents sometimes collected whatever fare they<br />

deemed possible from the homeseekers, but<br />

usually far from what the actual trip cost. The<br />

homeseekers were fed and entertained, and<br />

along the way they sang songs with words put to<br />

popular tunes about “the promised land.”<br />

Meanwhile, the community grew. The First<br />

State Bank of Alamo opened its doors in 1920,<br />

and the town’s first hotel, and large business<br />

buildings were constructed the same year.<br />

Citrus plantings were under way, and cotton<br />

began its rise in the agricultural market.<br />

Among early buildings was the Alamo<br />

Community Church. It began in the old<br />

Ebenezer Camp, then had its own building by<br />

1920, built a new church in 1929, and almost<br />

four decades later built its present church.<br />

Meanwhile, other churches were being<br />

established. Schools were built, soon to become<br />

part of the Pharr-San Juan-Alamo School District.<br />

The Alamo News began publication in 1918 and<br />

operated for many years to provide community<br />

information and serve the town’s printing needs.<br />

When the 1930s began, most of the land<br />

excursions had ended. Those who had sung<br />

the boastful tunes of a “Farmer’s Paradise” and<br />

purchased land settled down to raise their<br />

crops and children. As the years passed, they<br />

stayed through the depression years of the<br />

1930s, the hurricanes of 1933 and 1967, the<br />

ups and downs in farm markets, World War<br />

II, and the expansion years that followed.<br />

“They stayed to tell the rising generation of<br />

land excursions and showplaces, to recall the<br />

days when mesquite smoke filled the sunny<br />

days, and to reminisce about a way of life that is<br />

as much a part of the past as the acres of brush<br />

that once covered the land,” concluded author<br />

Dorothy Lee Pope.<br />

“Although no one can choose his particular<br />

period of history in which to live, I regret I<br />

missed the Rainbow Era by a decade or so.”<br />

Some of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s choice retirement<br />

developments and mobile home and RV parks<br />

are located in Alamo. They draw thousands of<br />

Winter Texans from the North and Midwest to<br />

spend their winters in the area and participate<br />

in all aspects of community life.<br />

Alamo is still a friendly city where its citizens<br />

enjoy life and are more concerned about each<br />

other than accumulating great riches. With a<br />

progressive banking and business community,<br />

loyal citizenry, and a thriving population of<br />

Winter Texans and year-round retirees, Alamo<br />

enters the new century with pride in its heritage,<br />

faith in its future, and a determination to keep<br />

the town “a good place to live.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: Now one of many churches in the<br />

city, the Alamo Community Church still<br />

invites residents and visitors to “A Place<br />

Your Family Can Call Home.”<br />

Below: Shaded picnic areas in Alamo’s<br />

Central Park invite people to stop and<br />

stay awhile and to enjoy the park’s<br />

Butterfly Garden.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

135


✧<br />

Above: The St. Louis, Brownsville, and Mexico<br />

Railroad came through what would be San<br />

Juan in late 1904, so it was there when John<br />

Closner sold land to the San Juan Townsite<br />

Company for a new town. However, there was<br />

no rail line north to the town being planned by<br />

D. B. Chapin. With the help of William<br />

Sprague of La Coma Ranch, they built a spur<br />

to Chapin, later named Edinburg. Its engine<br />

was named Old Flossie.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The San Juan Hotel, completed in<br />

1920, hosted newcomers on land-buying<br />

excursions and became the social center of<br />

the area. It is shown here in the 1960s. After<br />

it was restored in 1983 by Glenn and Mary<br />

Sigle and their son David, it was named a<br />

Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Site.<br />

SAN JUAN: NAMED FOR<br />

ITS FOUNDER<br />

San Juan, next stop on the railroad as it<br />

moved westward, was established in 1910<br />

when John Closner sold 406.4 acres out of his<br />

San Juan Plantation to the San Juan Townsite<br />

Company. Originally from Wisconsin, Closner<br />

was sheriff of Hidalgo County for many years<br />

and also had a large plantation. His employees<br />

revered him and called him “San Juan” so the<br />

city inherited a most appropriate Spanish<br />

name, though it originated with a man from<br />

the North.<br />

The city was laid out with commercial lots<br />

alongside the railroad. The north-south<br />

streets were named after states most familiar<br />

to Northern buyers and entrepreneurs.<br />

Nebraska Street continues to be the city’s<br />

main north-south street. With the building of<br />

the Robert L. Savage Mercantile Store, the<br />

beginnings of a new city were set in motion.<br />

The first frame hotel was built of materials<br />

furnished by the San Juan Plantation for<br />

$1,200 and named the San Juan Hotel.<br />

Soon the townsite became the property of<br />

Ralph R. Langley of Omaha, Nebraska, who<br />

managed the development and sales of lots<br />

and land. The townsite was sold again in<br />

1916 to banker F. C. Platt. San Juan was<br />

incorporated in 1917, and in 1919 developer<br />

A. J. McColl became the owner of the unsold<br />

portion of the townsite. A Chamber of<br />

Commerce was formed to encourage<br />

businesses to call San Juan home.<br />

Meanwhile, Closner and partner D. B.<br />

Chapin were deeply involved in another pet<br />

project—a railroad spur to the new townsite<br />

of Chapin, later named Edinburg. San Juan<br />

was the site of the juncture of a railway<br />

branch that was to move 7.79 miles north to<br />

Chapin and on to La Coma Ranch owned by<br />

William Sprague, who helped finance the<br />

project. Sam Robertson was hired to build the<br />

line, which reached Chapin and the Sprague<br />

Ranch in 1909.<br />

The train became known as the “Old<br />

Rattler Limited” and its engine was called<br />

Flossie. There was no easy access to the main<br />

SLB&M system. Freight had to be offloaded<br />

from the boxcars and hauled over to the<br />

awaiting train to Chapin. Since there was no<br />

roundhouse in Chapin, Flossie had to travel<br />

to Chapin pointing forward, then back up all<br />

the way to San Juan. The train only had two<br />

boxcars, and one was used as a combination<br />

passenger, freight, express, baggage, mail and<br />

livestock car. The passengers sat on boards<br />

that formed seats, while cows, mules and hogs<br />

were at the other end of the car. Still, it served<br />

its purpose, and the railroad delivered the<br />

building materials to Chapin for a new<br />

Hidalgo County Courthouse in 1910. The<br />

railroad became part of the SLB&M system in<br />

1912.<br />

In 1911 steam plants and pumps were<br />

erected on the river to bring the all-important<br />

irrigation water that made the land valuable for<br />

cropping and salable. The same system served<br />

Pharr and, later, part of McAllen. The water<br />

district office was later moved to San Juan.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

136


The handsome San Juan Hotel of Spanish<br />

Colonial design was completed in 1920, with<br />

22 rooms, a large courtyard and two patios. It<br />

was built on the same site as the original<br />

frame San Juan Hotel, which was moved to<br />

another location and converted to other uses.<br />

For the next two decades the hotel hosted<br />

newcomers on land-buying excursions and<br />

became the social center of the area. Later,<br />

one of the town’s most famous citizens, super<br />

Texas Ranger and longtime lawman Tom<br />

Mayfield, made his home there. He was a<br />

beloved and trusted peace officer for more<br />

than sixty years.<br />

What was probably Mayfield’s most famous<br />

arrest came in January 1915, when he was<br />

deputy sheriff of Hidalgo County and arrested<br />

a man named Basilio Ramos in McAllen.<br />

Ramos had in his possession documents, letters,<br />

money, and a flag, all of which exposed<br />

an organized plot against the United States.<br />

The letters and documents contained names<br />

of other people involved in the plot, which<br />

was known as the Plan of San Diego because<br />

it had supposedly originated in San Diego,<br />

Texas. This plot was a plan for Mexicans to<br />

rise against the United States and reclaim<br />

Texas, Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico, and<br />

California, which they felt had been taken<br />

unfairly from Mexico by the United States.<br />

The Plan of San Diego never materialized, but<br />

many amazing stories have been told about it<br />

through the years.<br />

As the years passed, San Juan Hotel went<br />

through many owners and fell on hard times,<br />

then was damaged by fire and vandals. It was<br />

beautifully restored in 1983 by Glenn and<br />

Mary Sigle and their son David, who is a graduate<br />

in architectural history from the<br />

University of Virginia. It was named a Texas<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Site, and the Sigles operated it for<br />

several years. The historic hotel is again in<br />

transition with high hopes that the famous<br />

landmark will soon be back in business.<br />

Some businesses came to San Juan early<br />

and stayed a long time. The Martinez<br />

Mercantile Store was operated by Manuel and<br />

Victoria Martinez from 1919 to 1977 and “sold<br />

everything from food to Stetson hats.” The old<br />

Martin Drug Store was one of the centers of<br />

activity as late as the 1940s. Bill Borman came<br />

in 1941 and had not one, but “Two hardware<br />

stores in the same family in the same town,” as<br />

he put it in an advertising message in “San<br />

Juan - 75th Anniversary of Founding - 1910-<br />

1985,” Advance Newspapers’ Souvenir Issue.<br />

Borman served as mayor of San Juan for<br />

fourteen years, during which he promoted the<br />

city as “prosperous and proudly debt-free.”<br />

The first Protestant church services were<br />

held in the original San Juan Hotel in 1911,<br />

which led to the formation of The San Juan<br />

People’s Church. Their first church was built<br />

in 1912 for $1,100, an outside shell with<br />

rough timbers inside, crude benches and<br />

camp chairs for seats. Quickly the women<br />

organized the Dorcas Society, which proved to<br />

be full of good works and made many<br />

contributions to the young community.<br />

The hurricane of 1933 hit San Juan with a<br />

storm that was “like a wave of the sea driven<br />

with the wind and tossed.” The People’s<br />

Church was badly damaged, and its members<br />

✧<br />

Left: One of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s best known and<br />

respected lawmen was Tom Mayfield, shown<br />

third from left with other lawmen in 1919.<br />

He began his service in 1901 as a deputy<br />

for Sheriff John Closner at the San Juan<br />

Plantation. He was a Texas Ranger for a<br />

time, then worked for an oil company near<br />

Tampico from 1921-1941. Thereafter, he<br />

returned to the <strong>Valley</strong> and was constable of<br />

the Pharr-San Juan-Alamo precinct until<br />

1963. He lived out his retirement years at<br />

the San Juan Hotel, where he kept many<br />

souvenirs of his colorful career.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The Missouri Pacific Depot in San<br />

Juan in 1937.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

137


✧<br />

Above: The first Virgen de San Juan del Valle<br />

Shrine was dedicated in 1954 and was<br />

destroyed by fire in 1970 after a pilot<br />

crashed into the structure. Though the<br />

sanctuary was destroyed, no one was injured.<br />

Below: The new Shrine was dedicated in April<br />

1980 with a great celebration. Thousands of<br />

pilgrims visit the Shrine each year and it is<br />

the site of many regular and special religious<br />

programs, meetings and retreats.<br />

felt this might be a sign for them to build a new<br />

church, which they did. The People’s Church<br />

remains an integral part of the community.<br />

The Virgen de San Juan del Valle Shrine<br />

brings thousands of worshipers and pilgrims to<br />

San Juan each week from across the United States<br />

and Mexico. It had its beginning when Father<br />

Joseph Azpiazu, OMI, moved to San Juan to<br />

establish a new parish in the city, which had no<br />

Catholic church. In 1949, aware of the devotion<br />

of the Mexican-American Catholic community to<br />

Mary and wanting to bring the new parish of San<br />

Juan together, he placed a replica of the statue of<br />

La Virgen de San Juan de los Lagos in his parish<br />

church of St. John the Baptist.<br />

As visitors from South Texas started streaming<br />

in to visit La Virgen, a large Gothic style Church<br />

was dedicated in 1954 and became known as the<br />

Virgen de San Juan del Valle Shrine.<br />

The generous offerings of the pilgrims made<br />

possible the rapid expansion of the Shrine’s<br />

buildings and services. The original Gothicstyle<br />

building was destroyed by fire in 1970<br />

after a pilot crashed into the structure. Though<br />

the sanctuary was in ruins, no one was injured<br />

and no harm befell the revered statuette.<br />

The dream of a new Shrine, spacious and<br />

modern, was realized when the new Shrine was<br />

dedicated with a great celebration April 19-25,<br />

1980. The contemporary Texas-style architecture<br />

of the fan-shaped building includes arches and<br />

walkway around the total perimeter. Its capacity<br />

is 1,800 seated and 3,000 standing. Initially, the<br />

exterior wall facing Expressway 83 was without<br />

decoration. In late 1994, three artists from Italy<br />

began work on the largest mosaic in southwest<br />

Texas. The mosaic is visible day and night and<br />

can be seen from Expressway 83.<br />

San Juan describes itself as “A Friendly<br />

City” with many fine churches, dedicated<br />

health professionals, moderately priced<br />

homes and fine RV parks in which to enjoy<br />

quiet, casual living in an atmosphere of yearround<br />

hospitality.<br />

PHARR ON THE RISE<br />

John C. Kelly of Waco, Texas, and<br />

Huntsville, Alabama, came to the <strong>Valley</strong> in<br />

1907 as an investor. He was said to have<br />

ridden horseback over much of what is now<br />

Pharr and the surrounding area and was<br />

impressed by the fertility of the soil. He and a<br />

friend, Frank Hammond, bought sixteen<br />

thousand acres in Porción 67 that extended<br />

from Edinburg to the river.<br />

Kelly was introduced to Henry N. Pharr at the<br />

Miller Hotel in Brownsville. Pharr was from New<br />

Iberia, Louisiana, where he and his brother<br />

owned several sugarcane plantations. He had<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

138


heard of the Kelly’s success with his first<br />

sugarcane crop and came down to check it out.<br />

They saw great possibilities in the area, and a<br />

partnership resulted in the formation of the<br />

Louisiana <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Sugar Cane Company. After<br />

Hammond realized the need for a water plan and<br />

the expense involved, he became discouraged<br />

with their purchase and sold his interest to Pharr.<br />

Kelly and Pharr engaged engineers to plat<br />

the Kelly-Pharr subdivision for the townsite,<br />

and Kelly registered the new town in the name<br />

of Pharr to honor his partner. In 1916 the<br />

townsite was incorporated as the City of Pharr.<br />

Meanwhile, engineers were brought in to lay<br />

out an irrigation system, and construction of<br />

the Pharr Canal System was begun. This later<br />

became the present water district, also serving<br />

San Juan and part of McAllen.<br />

Though it was sugarcane that brought the<br />

founders together, the sugar industry was<br />

short-lived. After the first successful year, when<br />

the cane had good height and satisfactory sugar<br />

content, the cane did not develop and the<br />

sugar content was low because of an excess of<br />

alkali in the soil. So the new settlers turned to<br />

other products—alfalfa, vegetables, then to<br />

citrus and cotton.<br />

When the sugarcane industry failed, Pharr<br />

sold out his interests in the area, which he is<br />

said to have later regretted. Kelly and his family<br />

remained in Pharr and one of its streets bears<br />

his name. Part of the Kelly land is still kept in<br />

agriculture by his daughter-in-law, Anna Mae<br />

Kelly, widow of John C. Kelly, Jr., who<br />

provided information about Pharr’s early days.<br />

By 1911, a number of families had moved to<br />

Pharr and a school for their children became<br />

necessary, so a two-story building of Spanish<br />

Colonial design was built in north Pharr. Later<br />

used for various purposes, the building still<br />

stands and is now owned by the city. Pharr and<br />

San Juan organized a school district in 1915<br />

and the students were transferred to the new<br />

school on Highway 83. Later the two cities<br />

would join with Alamo to form the large Pharr-<br />

San Juan-Alamo Independent School District<br />

that operates today. W. E. Cage established the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Clarion newspaper and the National<br />

Theatre around the time Pharr incorporated in<br />

1916, and the main north-south thoroughfare<br />

carries his name.<br />

In the February 1968 Tip-O-Texan<br />

magazine, Lillian Weems Baldridge, then<br />

seventy-nine, wrote “A Salute to Pharr,” in<br />

which she remembered when both she and the<br />

city were young:<br />

While teaching at McAllen and boarding at<br />

the O. P. Archer Hotel, I had the pleasure of<br />

meeting both Mr. Henry N. Pharr and his<br />

nephew of Morgan City, Louisiana. No streets<br />

were paved and the sand was deep.<br />

Windstorms came daily and cars were new. To<br />

be safe, one stopped until he could see where<br />

he was going and who was coming. It took men<br />

of far vision, fortitude and integrity to dream of<br />

and set in motion our lush <strong>Valley</strong> of today.<br />

A new hotel called the “Gem of the <strong>Valley</strong>”<br />

was built, and the young people from all<br />

nearby ranches and embryo towns gave it a<br />

warming-up party with a big dance. Music<br />

was by a wandering Mexican orchestra. Coffee<br />

and sandwiches were served at midnight. We<br />

could dance as long after that as we could<br />

persuade the musicians to play, but when they<br />

played ‘La Golondrina,’ that was equivalent to<br />

our Gringo ‘Home Sweet Home.’ We said our<br />

adios and wished Pharr a happy future.<br />

Driving through modern Pharr, circa 1968,<br />

there is a tinge of nostalgia for the happy,<br />

carefree days when we didn’t realize that<br />

pioneering was so rough. We felt sorry for the<br />

city people who were moving in and the<br />

womenfolk missing the city luxuries. Not all,<br />

✧<br />

The St. Louis, Brownsville and Mexico<br />

railroad depot in Pharr in 1916. After<br />

1925 the line became part of the Missouri<br />

Pacific system.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

139


✧<br />

Above: The Gem of the <strong>Valley</strong> Hotel, where<br />

young people from the nearby ranches and<br />

new towns danced until the band played La<br />

Golondrina, burned in 1933, leaving Pharr<br />

without a hotel for fifteen years.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The Texan Hotel opened in 1951 and<br />

for several decades was the center of<br />

business and social activity.<br />

but some, considered we were living a rather<br />

underprivileged life under such primitive<br />

conditions. However, many of the women<br />

loved the newness of it and, with their<br />

husbands, put their shoulder to the wheel and<br />

helped build the <strong>Valley</strong> of today. They, too,<br />

learned to love and respect the cactus, the<br />

trees that grew such vengeful thorns, to ride<br />

horseback and, when lost, trust to the good<br />

sense of their horse to get them home.<br />

So, to the lovely City of Pharr, gateway<br />

to romantic Old Mexico, gateway to your<br />

county seat, Edinburg, and out into the wide<br />

world, I salute you on your growth and<br />

accomplishments in just over fifty years of<br />

existence. Your boys and girls will never realize<br />

the exquisite growing pains, the depths of<br />

despair or the heights of splendor you reached<br />

while on your way up and out of the primitive<br />

and into our Atomic Age of today.<br />

But you have that old Spanish blessing:<br />

Vaya con Dios.<br />

grew as Pharr grew, becoming a part of Wells<br />

Fargo Bank in 1998. Then in 1951 the Texan<br />

Hotel opened for business with fifty-four<br />

rooms, a modern coffee shop and banquet<br />

room, and five stores. For several decades it was<br />

the center of business and social activity, but<br />

has given way to newer facilities in recent years.<br />

Pharr had twenty-two fruit and vegetable<br />

shippers and processing plants by the 1950s,<br />

and the agribusinesses that served farmers and<br />

shippers flourished. Though the area has<br />

become more urban and the economy more<br />

diversified through the years, some of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s major shippers still operate from Pharr.<br />

In 1935, just after he graduated from<br />

journalism school, Lloyd Glover became<br />

publisher of the Pharr Press and recorded the<br />

city’s ups and downs for over four decades.<br />

The Advance News Journal began its weekly<br />

community coverage in 1978.<br />

The combined Pharr-San Juan-Alamo<br />

School District was established in 1919 with<br />

Between the days of the early 1900s recalled<br />

by Mrs. Baldridge and the 1940s, Pharr had<br />

some good times…and some bad ones. For years<br />

it seemed that somebody was trying to burn the<br />

town down as major fires destroyed a large alfalfa<br />

dryer, a big feed mill, and whole sections of<br />

downtown streets. Even the “Gem of the <strong>Valley</strong>”<br />

hotel burned in 1933, and the town was hotelless<br />

for some years, then bank-less after its First<br />

National Bank closed during the depression.<br />

Better times were on their way by 1941,<br />

when Security State Bank opened its doors and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

140


headquarters at Pharr and is among the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s largest, covering forty-seven square<br />

miles and adding new schools and students<br />

each year. Its many teachers and support<br />

personnel make it the area’s largest employer.<br />

Pharr also has several private and parochial<br />

schools plus a vo-tech school.<br />

The Texas Department of Transportation’s<br />

district headquarters is in Pharr, close to the<br />

intersection of U.S. 281 and Expressway 83. The<br />

city has become a major trucking center, with<br />

truck brokerages serving as clearinghouses to<br />

match up truckers and shippers. However, the<br />

all-important railroad, along which the string of<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> towns developed, still hauls some<br />

products. The six-lane interchange of these two<br />

highways, completed in December 1993,<br />

provides a smooth traffic flow for this busy<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> intersection.<br />

These highways bring thousands of Winter<br />

Texans to Pharr for four to six months each<br />

year, where they enjoy the amenities offered by<br />

its mobile home and RV parks and the<br />

programs provided for them. Tourism has<br />

become a major contributor to the economy of<br />

the city, as it has to the entire <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. Special attractions include Smitty’s<br />

Jukebox Museum and Ye Old Clock Museum.<br />

Industrial activity and international trade<br />

have greatly increased since the North<br />

American Free Trade Agreement went into<br />

effect in 1994 and the Pharr-Reynosa<br />

International Bridge was completed in January<br />

1995. The bridge provides a direct link from<br />

the Pharr Industrial Park to Reynosa’s maquila<br />

plants. It also provides easy access to Mexico<br />

for tourists who want to visit the interior cities<br />

of Mexico since it links directly with the<br />

Autopista, the fastest route to Monterrey.<br />

MCALLEN CONTINUES TO GROW<br />

In August 1904, the St. Louis, Brownsville,<br />

and Mexico Railroad reached the site that would<br />

become McAllen, and in December 1904, the<br />

McAllen Townsite Company was established on<br />

four hundred acres donated by rancher John<br />

McAllen. A depot was built by the railroad, a<br />

road was constructed to the county seat of<br />

Hidalgo, and it seemed the little town was on its<br />

way. Not so. Buildings did not spring up, streets<br />

were never even laid out, and only three years<br />

after its beginning the townsite disbanded.<br />

Meanwhile, William Briggs of Briggs and<br />

Smith, Lake Charles, Louisiana, purchased<br />

eight thousand acres east of McAllen’s townsite<br />

and started East McAllen, with the original<br />

townsite referred to as West McAllen. East<br />

McAllen promoters paid for their own depot<br />

and post office and built a two-story frame hotel<br />

to accommodate potential investors and land<br />

purchasers. Families building new homes often<br />

stayed in “boarding houses,” more accurately<br />

known as tents, and meals consisted of wild<br />

game, beans, tortillas, and strong coffee.<br />

In March 1908 the Río Bravo Irrigation<br />

Company completed its main canal, which<br />

brought the promise of enough water to<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Pharr-Reynosa International<br />

Bridge, which opened in 1995, provides a<br />

direct link from the Pharr Industrial Park to<br />

and from Reynosa’s maquiladora plants. It<br />

also provides easy access to tourists who<br />

want to visit Mexico’s interior.<br />

Below: Pharr businessman Jim Shawn<br />

collected clocks until he had so many he<br />

built a building to house them, then turned<br />

it into Ye Olde Clock Museum. He is shown<br />

about 1970 winding one of the clocks in the<br />

collection that numbers over a thousand.<br />

The Shawn family continues to maintain the<br />

museum which is open to the public on<br />

weekday afternoons.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

141


✧<br />

Above: The promoters of McAllen built a<br />

two-story hotel soon after the depot and<br />

post office were established to accommodate<br />

potential investors and land purchasers. The<br />

first automobile in McAllen was this REO<br />

touring car owned by John Closner.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: McAllen's annual Fourth of July<br />

Celebration began early. Shown here is<br />

the young city’s Fourth of July Celebration<br />

in 1910.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

irrigate twenty-seven thousand acres of land.<br />

As the original townsite passed quietly out of<br />

existence, the new townsite, which became<br />

known simply as McAllen, began to build and<br />

expand. By 1910, the new town boasted<br />

almost a thousand inhabitants, who saw the<br />

need to incorporate so an effective city<br />

government could be established. The<br />

election for incorporation was held February<br />

18, 1911. Each voter was to write “For<br />

Commission” or “Against Commission.”<br />

Forty-five votes were cast, all “For<br />

Commission,” and forty-five votes each were<br />

cast for Frank G. Crow as mayor and O. P.<br />

Archer and H. L. Givens as the two<br />

commissioners. The city prospered nicely<br />

under the Texas general rule form of<br />

government until the early 1920s, when a<br />

new charter was formed and the commission<br />

enlarged to four members under home rule.<br />

Since then changes in city government have<br />

been made to keep up with the times and the<br />

city’s phenomenal growth.<br />

McAllen’s earliest population boom came<br />

as a result of the bandit raids during the<br />

Mexican Revolution of 1910-1920. First, the<br />

Texas Rangers and the Texas National Guard<br />

came and provided some protection, but by<br />

1915 there were raids somewhere in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> most every day. In 1916 Federal troops<br />

began arriving to protect the border and to<br />

conduct training exercises, with as many as<br />

12,000 in McAllen alone. Squadron A of the<br />

New York Guard arrived in McAllen on July<br />

12, 1916. Known as a “rich man’s outfit,” it<br />

even included Colonel Cornelius Vanderbilt.<br />

As the New York guardsmen arrived in the<br />

“Magic <strong>Valley</strong>,” they found land nothing like<br />

the grassy hills and tall forests back home.<br />

One soldier described the area as:<br />

…a land flat as the ocean bottom, which it<br />

once formed; where every bush and tree prick<br />

with the sting of a snake; where every bug<br />

likes a bite and where you hear the occasional<br />

rattle of an old diamond-back as you ride<br />

across the country; where the coyotes come<br />

near at midnight, and the pack yelps and<br />

snarls as it tears its prey to pieces; where<br />

buzzards sail lazily overhead at mid-day,<br />

waiting and watching; where doves perched<br />

overhead in the moss-hung trees of the river<br />

jungle carry on their incessant cooing; where<br />

tarantulas and scorpions hide in your blankets<br />

and mosquitoes swarm after sunset; where<br />

distance has no bounds and a human being is<br />

but an atom in the scheme of things.<br />

As the soldiers tried to adapt to their new<br />

surroundings, the citizens welcomed the<br />

protection and included them in community<br />

activities. However, the young city was<br />

unprepared to accommodate so many more<br />

people. Business establishments were packed<br />

day and night. A rush of orders was sent to<br />

wholesale houses for grocery staples and<br />

other necessities. Most businesses were very<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

142


profitable during this time, mainly because<br />

the soldiers had money to spend.<br />

Not only did retail sales increase, but many<br />

of the downtown buildings were also<br />

constructed during this period, and the<br />

number of homes and churches also increased.<br />

When Squadron A and other soldiers stationed<br />

along the border left the <strong>Valley</strong>, World War I<br />

was about to erupt, and they went on to other,<br />

more dangerous assignments. The training<br />

received in the <strong>Valley</strong> would serve them well.<br />

As in previous border conflicts, some of these<br />

soldiers returned to make their lives in what<br />

indeed would become “The Magic <strong>Valley</strong>.”<br />

Meanwhile, business leaders decided that<br />

the growing community needed an outstanding<br />

social and business center, a place for<br />

businessmen to gather, for fashionable affairs,<br />

and for dining. R. E. Horn, founder and president<br />

of First State Bank & Trust Co. in<br />

McAllen, and Mayor O. P. Archer were leaders<br />

in the movement to obtain a modern hotel for<br />

the community.<br />

The Spanish-style Casa de Palmas designed<br />

by M. L. Waller, an architect from Fort Worth,<br />

was opened in 1918, a three-story white stucco<br />

structure with a red tile roof built around a<br />

center patio, with fifty-seven guest rooms. The<br />

famous landmark has been through several<br />

owners and many renovations, and a major fire<br />

caused by lightning when it was almost rebuilt<br />

and about to reopen in 1973. It was rebuilt,<br />

and yet another major renovation and<br />

expansion program was recently completed,<br />

turning it into the beautiful Renaissance-Casa<br />

de Palmas. Many other modern hotels have<br />

been built in recent decades to accommodate<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: R. E. Horn was founder and<br />

president of First State Bank & Trust<br />

Company of McAllen, pictured here around<br />

1922-23. The First State Bank was an<br />

integral part of the business community<br />

through many changes.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Top, right: The new Texas State Bank tower<br />

on busy North Tenth Street is headquarters<br />

for the bank’s network of around thirty<br />

branch banks in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Below: McAllen’s Main Street, shown<br />

looking south in 2000, still attracts many<br />

customers, both local residents and shoppers<br />

from Mexico. So do the malls and shopping<br />

centers that flourish in other sections of the<br />

city, making McAllen a major retail center.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

143


✧<br />

Right: Sam Miller, longtime banker, investor,<br />

and donor of the land for McAllen-Miller<br />

International Airport, and his wife Marjorie<br />

fell in love with English architecture during<br />

a 1927 trip to England. In 1937 they<br />

commissioned architect/ builders Harry<br />

Biggers and Jack Langley of San Juan to<br />

design this house on North Fifteenth Street.<br />

Now listed in the National Register of<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Places, it is carefully maintained by<br />

its present owner, Rick DeJulio, an organizer<br />

of Futuro McAllen.<br />

Below: McAllen International Museum is an<br />

arts and science museum that has frequent<br />

educational programs, a gift shop, a<br />

butterfly garden, and <strong>Rio</strong>scape, an<br />

interactive learning park that focuses on the<br />

history of the <strong>Valley</strong>. In August 2000 work<br />

began on a $2.4-million addition that will<br />

more than double its size. The addition is<br />

part of a $5.5-million new millennium<br />

expansion and endowment program that<br />

will add many new exhibits, including a<br />

model of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> watershed.<br />

today’s visitors from all across the U.S., Mexico,<br />

and beyond.<br />

In 1930 Sam Miller donated 109 acres to<br />

build Miller Municipal Airport, which served<br />

early aviators from a simple airstrip and has<br />

grown to today’s active international airport.<br />

By 1940 McAllen had a population of around<br />

12,000 and called itself the “City of Palms.”<br />

Its economy was based on farming and petroleum.<br />

There were 430 businesses, of which<br />

249 were stores, and local retail receipts<br />

totaled over $6.2 million that year.<br />

In 1941 a suspension bridge replaced the<br />

old privately owned bridge to Reynosa. The<br />

new toll bridge was later purchased by the<br />

city and was called the McAllen-Hidalgo-<br />

Reynosa International Bridge. This resulted in<br />

an increased tourist trade that made the area a<br />

winter resort and major port of entry to<br />

Mexico. The city’s population grew to 20,000<br />

by 1950 and to 33,000 by 1960.<br />

McAllen was an agricultural, oil and tourist<br />

center by 1970. By then, it had a two-hundredbed<br />

hospital and a new air-conditioned high<br />

school, the first school in the nation featuring<br />

on-site power generated by natural-gaspowered<br />

turbines. In 2000 its school district<br />

had three high schools to take care of the<br />

burgeoning student population. Its expanded<br />

medical institutions now include a medical<br />

complex that covers several city blocks, plus<br />

facilities throughout the city.<br />

Growth continued during the 1980s and<br />

1990s with an increase in light industries.<br />

Much of the growth was prompted by<br />

Mexico’s maquiladora program, which has<br />

attracted hundreds of manufacturing firms to<br />

border cities. Many of these have twin plants<br />

on the U.S. side, as well as transportation and<br />

supply operations. Another growth factor is<br />

the active McAllen Foreign Trade Zone, which<br />

allows goods to be stored and assembled<br />

without payment of customs duties and tariffs<br />

until shipped out of the zone.<br />

Along with its growth has come the<br />

construction of many new homes and beautiful<br />

neighborhoods where the mesquite and cactus<br />

used to grow. No longer do the “coyotes come<br />

near at midnight,” nor do “tarantulas and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

144


scorpions hide in your blankets and extra<br />

breeches.” Public buildings, schools, churches,<br />

cultural and recreational facilities have also grown<br />

to meet the needs of its citizens. An organization,<br />

Futuro McAllen, is working to preserve the city’s<br />

heritage and restore some of its older residential<br />

neighborhoods. Residential and commercial<br />

construction in McAllen totaled $179,087,659<br />

n 2000.<br />

With a population of over 110,000, a<br />

strong economy, a booming retail trade<br />

boosted by product-hungry Mexican<br />

shoppers, and year-round tourism, the city<br />

enters the new millennium with the promise<br />

of continued growth and progress.<br />

MISSION:<br />

HOME OF THE FAMOUS<br />

Although the railroad reached the site of<br />

Mission in August 1904, it would be five years<br />

before the town was established. John J.<br />

Conway of Minnesota first visited the area in<br />

1906 and stayed at the guest house of the La<br />

Lomita Mission established by the Oblate<br />

missionaries by the horseback-riding priests of<br />

the Cavalry of Christ. The La Lomita Grant was<br />

originally awarded by Spain to José Antonio<br />

Cantú of Reynosa. After various transactions,<br />

the land was bequeathed to the Missionary<br />

Oblates of Mary Immaculate in 1874. The<br />

Oblate Fathers decided in 1906 to sell some of<br />

the lands they received through the bequest.<br />

Conway came with experience and capital<br />

accumulated through successful land trading<br />

in Minnesota and South Dakota and was<br />

always alert to new worlds to conquer. He saw<br />

in the vast expanse of brushland possibilities<br />

stretching far into a bright future. He could tell<br />

the soil was rich from the scattered farms that<br />

already existed. All that was needed to fulfill<br />

his dream was water—and he believed he<br />

could provide irrigation water from the river.<br />

Convinced he had found the land he<br />

wanted, Conway and his partner, J. W. Hoit of<br />

Minnesota, purchased 17,000 acres from the<br />

Oblates and soon added 10,000 acres from<br />

others. They established the La Lomita Land<br />

Company in 1906, and in the next four years<br />

spent at least a million dollars in improvements,<br />

mostly irrigation.<br />

In 1908 Conway persuaded the railroad to<br />

establish a station near the center of the new<br />

development. That stop became “Mission” in<br />

honor of the little Oblate Mission at the<br />

suggestion of Mrs. Charles Volz who, with her<br />

husband, experimented with early vegetable,<br />

flower and citrus plantings. Conway<br />

encouraged any development that would<br />

improve the quality of life in the new town,<br />

gave land to any group that wanted to build a<br />

church, and for parks and a cemetery.<br />

His vigorous, imaginative promotion<br />

emphasized the rich soil, the mild temperatures<br />

that made year-round production possible, and<br />

the availability of irrigation and railway<br />

transportation for products. Hundreds of<br />

people came, saw, and settled.<br />

Undoubtedly the most famous person<br />

lured to Mission was William Jennings Bryan,<br />

who selected a site for a winter home near the<br />

river. Before construction could start,<br />

✧<br />

Above: La Lomita Mission, the little adobe<br />

chapel built by the Oblate Fathers in 1865<br />

from which Mission got its name.<br />

Below: St. Peter’s Novitiate, which stands on<br />

high ground overlooking the countryside<br />

south of Mission, was built by the Order of<br />

the Oblates of Mary Immaculate in 1912 as<br />

a retreat where novitiates could reflect on<br />

their spiritual calling before taking their<br />

vows for the priesthood. In 1972 it was<br />

vacated by the Oblates and was used until<br />

1998 by the Tropical Texas Center MHMR.<br />

The Catholic Diocese of Brownsville bought<br />

the historic building in 1999 as the site for<br />

its new junior college seminary.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

145


✧<br />

Top, left: William Jennings Bryan, orator,<br />

author and candidate for the U.S.<br />

presidency, lived in this home on 160 acres<br />

of the La Lomita tract between 1909 and<br />

1912. His home was a popular gathering<br />

place when he was in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Top, right: Mission’s own Cleo Dawson,<br />

author and educator, made her home in<br />

Kentucky after her young years in Mission.<br />

There she became friends with the<br />

“Kentucky Colonel” who established the<br />

famous chain of Kentucky Fried Chicken<br />

restaurants. This picture was taken during a<br />

visit to the <strong>Valley</strong> in the 1970s.<br />

however, his tract was inundated by the flood<br />

of 1909. Conway traded a tract in another<br />

location, where Bryan built what is still<br />

referred to as “the Bryan Home.” He spent<br />

time there from 1909 to 1912, when the old<br />

fascination of politics drew him northward<br />

and Bryan resumed his speaker’s platform.<br />

Though unsuccessful in three bids for the<br />

U.S. presidency, he was a great lawyer, orator,<br />

writer and editor, and was President Wilson’s<br />

secretary of state from 1913-1915.<br />

Mission’s famous writer and educator, Dr.<br />

Cleo Dawson, author of the novel She Came to<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>, reminisced about Mission’s early<br />

days and about Bryan in a 1953 article in the<br />

Mission Times:<br />

Mission always celebrated with a great fiesta<br />

and a parade and dance when the “Great<br />

Commoner” came down to his sunny Mission<br />

acres for winter rest and talk about “Free Silver”<br />

and continued Presidential plans. William<br />

Jennings Bryan impressed me, as he impressed<br />

everybody who ever saw him. He impressed me<br />

so much I’m still remembering that first time I<br />

saw him riding down the streets of Mission in a<br />

buckboard, the first parade I ever saw.<br />

I had never seen such a time in Mission.<br />

Everywhere was crowded. Every mesquite<br />

bush in town had horses and wagons and<br />

buckboards tied up to it. People were lined up<br />

all along the street and even sitting up on the<br />

porch-roofs of stores.<br />

Below: The citrus industry was booming by<br />

1923 when John H. Shary built the first<br />

modern citrus packing plant and set up the<br />

Texas Fruit Growers Exchange.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

146


Bryan enjoyed going to Mission after his<br />

mail. The people there looked upon him not<br />

as a great statesman, but rather as a friend<br />

who could be consulted about the weather,<br />

crops and other such commonplace matters.<br />

He once went to a circus that came to<br />

Mission. When the people saw him, there was<br />

such a clamor that he had to make a speech<br />

before the show could start.<br />

As the fledgling town flourished, it looked as<br />

if John Conway’s dreams were coming true. By<br />

1912 Mission had a population of three<br />

thousand. Surrounding the town were eighteen<br />

thousand acres in cultivation, with successful<br />

crops of onions, cabbage, corn, cotton, figs,<br />

tomatoes and cucumbers and the promising<br />

beginnings of citrus cultivation. Because of the<br />

economic downturn of 1912 and other setbacks,<br />

Conway did not personally make the fortune he<br />

expected, but he can be counted among those<br />

rare individuals who lived to see their dreams<br />

come true. He felt that Mission was the “good<br />

place to live” that he had envisioned, and he is<br />

fondly referred to as the “Father of Mission.”<br />

Citrus attracted John H. Shary to Mission.<br />

He was a salesman-promoter on a grand scale<br />

who believed his own sales talk and proved it<br />

by settling down as neighbor and citizen to help<br />

make his predictions come true. In 1912 Shary<br />

bought thirty-six thousand acres in what is now<br />

the Sharyland-Mission area. He bought and<br />

completed the unfinished Mission irrigation<br />

system over a period of several years so he<br />

could grow citrus. By 1914 the first forty acres<br />

had been cleared and the land was ready for<br />

planting. He visited California to study their<br />

harvesting, packing, processing and sales<br />

methods. He built the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first modern<br />

citrus packing plant in Sharyland and set up the<br />

Texas Citrus Fruit Growers Exchange, a<br />

cooperative marketing agency. The citrus<br />

industry boomed, and orchards around Mission<br />

multiplied. The national press described Shary<br />

as “Citrus King,” “Mr. Citrus,” and the one that<br />

stuck, “Father of the Texas Citrus Industry.”<br />

Shary and his wife, Mary, built one of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s best known showplaces overlooking an<br />

artificial lake on North Shary Road. It was the<br />

setting for the 1937 wedding of the couple’s<br />

only child, Marialice, to Allan Shivers when he<br />

was a state senator and just beginning his career<br />

in Texas politics. Later he was to become<br />

lieutenant governor, and then governor for<br />

longer than any of his predecessors in that<br />

office. The Shary mansion became the Shivers’<br />

part-time home, and they entertained many<br />

guests there, including President Dwight<br />

Eisenhower during his three-day visit to<br />

dedicate Falcon Dam in 1953. The over sixthousand-acre<br />

Sharyland Plantation was sold to<br />

the Hunt interests of Dallas in the 1970s, with<br />

the exception of the home and surrounding<br />

land, which the Shivers family gave to the<br />

University of Texas-Pan American, Edinburg.<br />

Lloyd and Elmer Bentsen arrived in<br />

Mission just after their service in World War I<br />

to join their parents, Peter and Tina Bentsen,<br />

who had come from South Dakota in 1917 for<br />

the father’s health. The sons bought ten acres<br />

and went to farming, did well with it, and the<br />

father regained his health. The Bentsen<br />

brothers didn’t have much formal education,<br />

but they were hard workers with imagination<br />

and they learned how to buy land on<br />

favorable terms, sell it, and buy more. The<br />

Bentsen Development Company expanded<br />

into the land clearing business, a palm<br />

nursery, and then into banking and<br />

investments. The family donated land for the<br />

densely wooded 588-acre Bentsen <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> State Park south of Mission, a popular<br />

birding, camping, and nature site.<br />

The Bentsen brothers and their<br />

descendants have made major contributions<br />

✧<br />

The Shary mansion on North Shary Road<br />

was the setting for the 1937 wedding of John<br />

and Mary Shary’s daughter, Marialice, to<br />

Allan Shivers, who later was governor of<br />

Texas. In 1953, when President Eisenhower<br />

came to the <strong>Valley</strong> for the dedication of<br />

Falcon Dam, he was a guest of Shivers at<br />

the Shary home.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

147


✧<br />

Above: Lloyd Bentsen, Sr.<br />

Below: Some of Mission’s famous people are<br />

shown in this sketch by Manuel Hinojosa,<br />

Kell/Muñoz/Wigodsky Architects. At center<br />

with the cigar is John Shary. Clockwise<br />

around him are longtime U.S.<br />

Representative Kika de la Garza, baseball<br />

hero Leonardo Alaniz, the legendary<br />

Cowboys Coach Tom Landry, and U.S.<br />

Senator Lloyd Bentsen, Jr.<br />

COURTESY OF THE MISSION CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.<br />

to the business and civic life of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Lloyd Sr. helped organize the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Planning Board in 1944 and was its<br />

first president. The organization became the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce and<br />

now the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership, which<br />

has sparked many <strong>Valley</strong>wide organizations<br />

and improvements.<br />

After service as a bomber pilot in World<br />

War II, Lloyd Bentsen, Jr., began his political<br />

career as Hidalgo County judge until elected<br />

in 1948 as the youngest member of Congress<br />

at twenty-seven. After three terms he left to<br />

enter the insurance business in Houston, then<br />

decided to return to the political arena. He<br />

was elected to the U.S. Senate in 1970, where<br />

he became chairman of the Senate Finance<br />

Committee. In 1988 Senator Bentsen was the<br />

Democratic Party nominee for vice president<br />

and later served as U.S. treasurer in the<br />

Clinton cabinet. Though Houston became his<br />

home, he never forgot his <strong>Valley</strong> roots.<br />

Another Mission political star is E. “Kika”<br />

de la Garza, who was born in Mercedes but<br />

attended Mission schools, Edinburg Junior<br />

College, now the University of Texas-Pan<br />

American, and law school at St. Mary’s<br />

University in San Antonio. He was elected to<br />

the U.S. House of Representatives in 1964 and<br />

became a member of the House Agriculture<br />

Committee in 1965. He served fourteen years<br />

as its chairman before retiring from politics in<br />

1994. To honor him for his service to<br />

agriculture, especially to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, the Kika de la Garza Subtropical<br />

Research Center of the USDA/ARS at Weslaco<br />

was dedicated in his honor in 1999.<br />

Mission’s famous people are not limited to<br />

business and politics. One of sports’ most<br />

highly regarded figures was Tom Landry,<br />

honored in his hometown with a colorful<br />

mural depicting his life and career. He began<br />

as a player at Mission High School, won a<br />

football scholarship to the University of<br />

Texas, and served in the Army Air Corps as a<br />

B-17 pilot for thirty bombing missions over<br />

Europe. He landed in Dallas in 1960 to begin<br />

his legendary tenure as coach of the Dallas<br />

Cowboys for twenty-nine years.<br />

Another sports figure who proudly claimed<br />

Mission as his home town was Leonardo “Leo<br />

Najo” Alaniz, a baseball hero in Mexico as well<br />

as Texas. He played several years with San<br />

Antonio in the Texas League, and in major<br />

leagues for a time but a broken leg kept him<br />

from making it big in the majors. He managed<br />

a Mexican league team and became a member<br />

of the Baseball Hall of Fame in Monterrey, as<br />

well as the American Baseball Players<br />

Association. Born in Nuevo León, he lived for<br />

sixty-five years in Mission, which renamed<br />

Seventh Street “Leo Najo Street” in his honor.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

148


Moore Field, a U.S. training field fourteen<br />

miles northwest of Mission, was an important<br />

part of Mission’s life and economy for many<br />

years. It opened in 1941 as a flight school and<br />

trained six thousand pilots during World War<br />

II. Closed in 1945, it was jointly operated by<br />

Mission, McAllen and Edinburg as Tri-Cities<br />

Municipal Airport for a time. Reactivated in<br />

1954 as Moore Air Force Base, thousands of<br />

Air Force pilots received their primary flight<br />

training and academic instruction there before<br />

it was again deactivated. The base was later<br />

the site of the USDA’s successful screwworm<br />

fly eradication program and continues to be<br />

used by the USDA.<br />

Mission marked the sixty-second<br />

anniversary of the colorful Texas Citrus Fiesta<br />

in January 2000. Established in 1932 to<br />

promote the South Texas Citrus industry and<br />

celebrate the bountiful harvest in Mission, the<br />

“Home of the Grapefruit,” it is a major <strong>Valley</strong><br />

event that attracts thousands to its Parade of<br />

Oranges and other unique activities.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Theatre, first known as Teatro La Paz<br />

(Peace Theatre), was built about 1912 by Juan<br />

Bautista Barbera, a native of Spain who came<br />

to the United States in 1905. A bricklayer by<br />

profession, Barbera brought films, lecturers,<br />

actors and musicians to his theater. It has been<br />

restored as a center for cultural events and<br />

movie classics with an adjoining restaurant.<br />

Another remnant of old Mission remains<br />

on Conway, Mission’s main street, in the<br />

historic Border Theater. Built by Robert N.<br />

and Dell Smith in 1942, it opened with the<br />

Roy Rogers movie Heart of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Its<br />

ownership has changed several times in its<br />

fifty-plus years of operation. Bill and Gen<br />

Long bought it in 1995 and have restored it to<br />

its original beauty. Their goal is for families to<br />

enjoy movies in an atmosphere reminiscent of<br />

the early 1940s. Recorded as a Texas<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Landmark in 1997, the Hidalgo<br />

County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission presented the<br />

Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Medallion to the theater in<br />

January 1999.<br />

Though Mission residents are proud of their<br />

rich history, they did not have a place to display<br />

their growing collection of historical mementos<br />

until the city opened its new police station in<br />

July 2000. Now they are getting a museum as<br />

the city commission approved the Mission<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Society’s request to make the old<br />

police station, built in 1940, into a museum.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The historic Border Theater in<br />

downtown Mission is one of the last<br />

remaining theaters with Art Pueblo styling.<br />

Virtually the same as when it opened as the<br />

first air-conditioned theater in the <strong>Valley</strong> in<br />

1942, it was re-opened in 1995 by Bill and<br />

Gen Long. Remodeled to further recapture<br />

its historical flavor and increase customer<br />

comfort, it shows first-run family movies<br />

and has guided tours and special bookings.<br />

COURTESY OF BILL AND GEN LONG.<br />

Below: The Tom Landry Mural in<br />

downtown Mission by artist Manuel<br />

Hinojosa depicts his life, career, and legend,<br />

spanning the life of the football great from<br />

his early years as a player at Mission High<br />

School to his legendary tenure as the coach<br />

of the Dallas Cowboys and his induction<br />

into the Pro Football Hall of Fame. The<br />

biographical mural measures 95 by 8 feet.<br />

COURTESY OF BILL AND GEN LONG.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

149


✧<br />

Top, left: The new World Birding Center<br />

headquarters will be located on 175 acres<br />

adjacent to Bentsen <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> State<br />

Park near Mission. It will house<br />

administrative offices and special exhibits,<br />

with a network of bird-watching centers<br />

spanning the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Top, right: Plain Chacalacas, sometimes<br />

called Mexican Pheasants, are permanent<br />

residents of thickets from Falcon Dam to the<br />

Gulf. They are found in abundance at<br />

Bentsen Park and even in <strong>Valley</strong> backyards.<br />

COURTESY OF DOUG BRUNDIGE.<br />

Right: Some facilities are in place and others<br />

are under development at the one-hundredacre<br />

Pepsi Sports Park south of Mission. It<br />

will contain facilities for a wide range of<br />

sports and recreation, including a swimming<br />

complex with training-sized pool. It is a<br />

project of Hunt <strong>Valley</strong> Development on the<br />

six-thousand-acre Sharyland Plantation,<br />

which includes master-planned residential<br />

communities and a business park.<br />

Agriculture remains of great importance to<br />

the Mission area though its citrus acreage is<br />

now reduced. Its expressway business park is<br />

home to several <strong>Valley</strong>wide agricultural<br />

organizations: Texas Citrus Mutual,<br />

TexaSweet Citrus Marketing, Texas Citrus<br />

Exchange, Texas Vegetable Association, and<br />

Texas Produce Association.<br />

Mission’s schools and health facilities are<br />

constantly expanding to meet the needs of area<br />

citizens and are widely recognized for their<br />

excellence. With over seventy recreational<br />

vehicle parks, Winter Texans almost double<br />

Mission’s population for several months a year,<br />

contributing much to the economy and<br />

community life. The headquarters of Texas<br />

Parks & Wildlife’s new World Birding Center is<br />

under development by Bentsen <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> State Park, as is the North American<br />

Butterfly Association’s Butterfly Park, making<br />

the area a favorite with ecotourists.<br />

In September 2000, Bentsen Palm Development,<br />

which gave the land for the World<br />

Birding Center, announced plans for Bentsen<br />

Palm Village on its remaining twenty-three<br />

hundred acres, an environmentally friendly,<br />

master-planned community that will blend<br />

with the birds and butterflies.<br />

In the late 1990s, Hunt <strong>Valley</strong> Development<br />

began a major development program on its six<br />

thousand-plus acres that includes office<br />

buildings, manufacturers, and industrial supply<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

150


firms in the Sharyland Business Park, plus the<br />

one-hundred-acre Pepsi Sports Park. More than<br />

10,000 new homes in master-planned<br />

residential communities are projected for 4,000<br />

acres of the former citrus plantation. In 2000<br />

work was progressing on schedule.<br />

Add to these developments the proposed<br />

$30-million Anzalduas International Bridge,<br />

and the new millennium offers exciting times<br />

for the thriving town named for historic La<br />

Lomita Mission.<br />

LA JOYA MEANS “ THE JEWEL”<br />

La Joya spreads along U.S. Highway 83<br />

between Mission and <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City. Its<br />

name, meaning “the jewel,” came from a small<br />

natural lake just west of the town, said by<br />

early settlers to shine in the sun like a jewel.<br />

The site was part of what was known as Los<br />

Ejidos de Reynosa Viejo. The ejidos were the<br />

shared grazing lands used for livestock by<br />

Reynosa settlers who had come with Spanish<br />

colonist José de Escandón in 1749. Some of<br />

today’s La Joya residents trace their ancestry<br />

to the Escandón settlers.<br />

During the early 1800s at the site of what is<br />

now La Joya, Francisco de la Garza, a descendant<br />

of the early colonizers, founded a community<br />

called Tabasco adjacent to the northern bank of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. After the floods in 1908 and<br />

1909, the settlers moved their belongings just<br />

north to higher and less flood-prone ground. In<br />

1926 the residents incorporated their<br />

community as La Joya. Development was limited<br />

and the municipal government lay dormant until<br />

1965, when the city government was revived and<br />

the community began to grow.<br />

Most of La Joya’s activity centers around its<br />

huge 226 square mile school district, which is<br />

made up not only of La Joya, but also the<br />

surrounding communities of Palmview,<br />

Peñitas, Sullivan City, Los Ebanos, Abram, and<br />

Cuevitas. The district has 18 school campuses<br />

with over 17,000 students and more than<br />

2,000 employees. School construction in<br />

recent years has added many new school<br />

buildings and related educational facilities. In<br />

addition to its excellent academic programs,<br />

La Joya is well known for its Tabasco Folkloric<br />

Group and Mariachi Los Coyotes, both part of<br />

its outstanding Fine Arts program.<br />

EDINBURG:<br />

THE HIDALGO COUNTY SEAT<br />

Edinburg had a tumultuous beginning, a<br />

colorful chapter in <strong>Valley</strong> history that is celebrated<br />

during the city’s annual “Fiesta Edinburg.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: One of many new La Joya school<br />

facilities is its performing arts center, shown<br />

nearing completion in late 2000. It houses<br />

the district’s performing arts academy,<br />

which provides intensive training in dance,<br />

music, visual arts, theater and media<br />

communications, plus a fifteen-hundred-seat<br />

auditorium. The center is part of a $90<br />

million building program that includes six<br />

new elementary schools, two new middle<br />

schools, a new ninth and tenth-grade<br />

campus, and additions to the high school.<br />

COURTESY OF BILL BELL.<br />

Below: It didn’t take long for a courthouse to<br />

be built in the new Hidalgo County seat,<br />

first named Chapin. Shown at the<br />

construction site of the two-story clapboard<br />

building are, (standing from left to right) A.<br />

Y. Baker, Walter M. Dougherty, John<br />

Closner, and D. B. Chapin. James J. Closner<br />

is in the auto. During construction, county<br />

officials conducted business in tents.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

151


✧<br />

Above: The first courthouse was replaced in<br />

1910 with this picturesque stucco structure,<br />

elegant with its marble-tiled walls and<br />

porticos. It remained the hub of county<br />

government until 1954, when the present<br />

courthouse was built. It is remembered with<br />

fondness by those who were associated with<br />

it during its busy years.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The present Hidalgo County<br />

Courthouse includes the main county offices<br />

and courts at law. When more space was<br />

needed, the county purchased a former bank<br />

building across from the plaza, and other<br />

buildings are utilized to meet the expanding<br />

needs of county government.<br />

When Hidalgo County was organized in<br />

1852, the river town of Edinburgh was<br />

designated as the county seat. It was named<br />

for the capital of Scotland, home of one of its<br />

founders, John Young; the other founder,<br />

John McAllen, came from Londonderry,<br />

Northern Ireland. After several years, the<br />

town’s name was changed to Hidalgo. Located<br />

close to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the town was subject<br />

to flooding, which posed a threat to county<br />

records. Also, it was not in the center of the<br />

county and was not accessible by rail. By<br />

1907 county leaders began to look for a new<br />

site in a safer, more central location.<br />

Meanwhile, John Closner, William<br />

Sprague, and D. B. Chapin, then the county<br />

judge, had purchased fourteen hundred acres<br />

for a new town sixteen miles northeast of<br />

Hidalgo, to be named Chapin. The townsite<br />

company donated four square blocks in the<br />

center of the townsite for county use. At the<br />

time, Chapin was nothing more than an old<br />

cattle trail in the chaparral, but its supporters<br />

had high hopes for the town. Legal<br />

requirements had to be met, such as a petition<br />

for an election to move the county seat and<br />

then the election itself. Chapin resigned as<br />

county judge to avoid a conflict of interest,<br />

and S. P. Silver of Mercedes succeeded him.<br />

When the election was held on October 10,<br />

1908, the vote was 422 to 90 in favor of<br />

moving the courthouse to Chapin.<br />

Opponents of the move were very angry<br />

and threatened to stop it by an injunction.<br />

Proponents of the change saw they must act<br />

fast before the opposition could stop them. By<br />

October 12 the votes had been canvassed and<br />

certified. Early the next morning, under the<br />

cover of darkness, Closner and other officials<br />

removed the records from Hidalgo by wagon<br />

caravan under armed guard. The loaded wagons<br />

stopped overnight at the San Juan<br />

Plantation. On the morning of October 14,<br />

1908, the wagon caravan arrived in Chapin,<br />

an occasion celebrated with much shouting<br />

and shooting in the air.<br />

Feverish activity began at the recently<br />

cleared site. Lumber was hauled into Chapin<br />

from the new town of McAllen to build a twostory<br />

clapboard building for the records and to<br />

serve as the first courthouse. By November, the<br />

townsite was laid out, business and residential<br />

lot sales had begun, and work was under way<br />

on an irrigation system. A post office was<br />

established on December 3, 1908. W. D. Day<br />

had the first store in the community and served<br />

as the first postmaster.<br />

Meanwhile, work had begun on the rail spur<br />

from San Juan, which reached Chapin in March<br />

of 1909 to connect the new county seat with the<br />

rest of the <strong>Valley</strong>. Since a roundhouse was<br />

lacking in Chapin, the train, called Flossie, had<br />

to back up on the trip back to San Juan. At first<br />

it had just two boxcars, but it provided that<br />

necessary transportation link. Later, the city<br />

received rail connections with Corpus Christi<br />

and San Antonio through Southern Pacific.<br />

In December 1908 voters approved a<br />

proposition to build a new $75,000<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

152


courthouse, which was completed in June of<br />

1910 to establish a permanent center of local<br />

govern-ment. A new county jail was also<br />

dedicated, built like the courthouse of brick<br />

with white stucco and a red tiled roof. The<br />

courthouse and jail were designed by the<br />

famous architect Attlee B. Ayers. Another jail<br />

was built some years later, and the original jail<br />

was used for city offices and a firehouse before<br />

it was renovated to become the home of the<br />

Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum in 1970.<br />

The picturesque 1910 courthouse was<br />

replaced with the present structure in 1954 to<br />

provide additional space for offices, records<br />

and courts at law.<br />

In 1911 the name of the new county seat<br />

was changed to Edinburg, which had been the<br />

county’s first capital, then spelled with “h”<br />

like Scotland’s Edinburgh. Somewhere along<br />

the way the “h” on the end of the town’s name<br />

was lost. One account says it was decided to<br />

leave off the final ”h” since the Scottish burr<br />

was difficult for Spanish tongues. There is<br />

another story that says a U.S. Postal Service<br />

decree changed the names of all cities ending<br />

in “gh” to a simple “g” around 1908; however,<br />

the City of Pittsburgh petitioned to keep<br />

the “gh” and won. Edinburg was an<br />

unincorporated town until a vote for<br />

incorporation was approved unanimously on<br />

September 8, 1919.<br />

At first, most of the town’s business<br />

centered around ranching, and Edinburg<br />

continued to be a ranching headquarters.<br />

Beyond the irrigated farmland are some of the<br />

area’s oldest ranches—the Velas of Laguna<br />

Seca, the Guerras and McAllens of Linn, and<br />

the Chapas of San Manuel, to name a few. The<br />

famed La Coma Ranch was owned first by<br />

William Sprague and later the King Ranch in<br />

the early twentieth century, and since 1944 by<br />

members of the Bentsen family. A cattle<br />

auction yard, ranch suppliers, and an amateur<br />

rodeo show the area’s continued interest in<br />

cattle and ranching.<br />

The arrival of irrigation in 1915 initiated<br />

an agricultural economy as Edinburg quickly<br />

became a center for buying and processing<br />

vegetables, cotton, grain, and citrus.<br />

Agriculture, bolstered by the development of<br />

oil and gas reserves, and the city’s position as<br />

the center of government for a large county,<br />

fueled the city’s growth.<br />

The region’s cultural and ethnic mix can be<br />

seen in the way its Spanish heritage blends<br />

with American customs. One of Edinburg’s<br />

citizens, José Jesús “Joe” Ponce, wrote a book<br />

in 1999 about his family, Emigrantes De<br />

Asturias: The Story of the de la Viña Family. His<br />

great-grandfather, Judge Juan Manuel de la<br />

Viña, was an early educator and Hidalgo<br />

County judge who participated in the<br />

founding of Edinburg with his sons, Juan<br />

and Plutarco. The family has contributed<br />

politicians, farmers, businessmen and educators<br />

to the area. “There is plenty of Hispanic<br />

history that has never been told, and it’s<br />

beautiful information,” Ponce said. “Right<br />

now, our family has 42 teachers working in<br />

Edinburg schools, and my Uncle Rudy de la<br />

Viña was mayor of Edinburg for 12 years.”<br />

The rest of the <strong>Valley</strong> was fast developing into<br />

a winter resort area when Edinburg realized it<br />

was missing out on something big. Being the<br />

palm-lined “Gateway to the <strong>Valley</strong>” was fine with<br />

the citizens of Edinburg until they realized that<br />

the south gate of the city was also open.<br />

Consequently, most of the tourist business was<br />

driving on through to neighboring cities. They<br />

got busy and provided tourist recreation<br />

facilities. With a belief in themselves and their<br />

community, eleven hundred citizens joined<br />

✧<br />

Early enterprises centered around the<br />

growing of vegetables and citrus. The Juan<br />

de la Viña family is shown in their orchard<br />

about 1915. Educated in Monterrey and<br />

Catholic University in St. Louis, Missouri, he<br />

served as Hidalgo County judge from 1894<br />

to 1900 and was an educator for many<br />

years, as well as a farmer and rancher.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY<br />

HISTORICAL COMMISSION ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

153


✧<br />

Above: The Echo Motor Hotel was built in<br />

the late 1950s by citizens to help promote<br />

tourism and continues to serve visitors to the<br />

busy county seat. It is shown in the<br />

background in 1969 when Edinburg was<br />

first named an All-America City. Among<br />

those celebrating at poolside were Joyce<br />

Skloss, Celeste Buchanan, and Berta Treviño.<br />

Below: This Gothic Revival style auditorium<br />

was built in 1927 to serve the newly created<br />

Edinburg Junior College, later serving other<br />

educational institutions. The building<br />

features ogee-arched windows and<br />

ornamental stonework. It has been<br />

renovated by the city for use as a municipal<br />

auditorium and cultural center.<br />

forces, bought stock, and built the Echo Motor<br />

Hotel, which was a showplace facility when it<br />

opened in the late 1950s. Many additional<br />

facilities have been added, and its tourism<br />

continues to increase.<br />

Edinburg was named an All-America City<br />

for the third time in June 2000, with the way<br />

businesses and government work together<br />

cited by the National Civic League as the reason<br />

the city won. The league awards the title<br />

to only 10 cities each year, for which the top<br />

30 cities in the country compete. Edinburg<br />

was the first city in the <strong>Valley</strong> and only the<br />

fourth Texas city to be given the honor when<br />

it received the designation in 1969. The second<br />

time Edinburg was named an All-America<br />

City was in 1995.<br />

Education has been a major factor in<br />

Edinburg’s progress. It has one of the nation’s<br />

largest school districts, covering 945 square miles<br />

and serving the students of several rural<br />

communities in addition to its own residents.<br />

Edinburg Junior College was established as part<br />

of the Edinburg School District in 1927. It<br />

became state-supported as Pan American College,<br />

then Pan American University, and was made part<br />

of The University of Texas System in 1989.<br />

Since the merger with The University of<br />

Texas System, there has been an explosion of<br />

new buildings and renovations, with a fifty-five<br />

percent increase in building square footage, a<br />

tremendous growth rate for any university. Its<br />

new International Trade and Technology<br />

Building draws the world to the <strong>Valley</strong> and<br />

highlights the University’s ties to economic<br />

development agencies on both sides of the<br />

international border.<br />

Not just buildings, but many new programs<br />

have been added to provide educational<br />

opportunities for its more than thirteen<br />

thousand students. Under construction in 2000<br />

were a new student union and computer center,<br />

with planned facilities to include a $15 million<br />

UT Medical School research center. In most<br />

cases, UTPA buildings follow the “Modern<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

154


Spanish” style set by Kenneth Bentsen, who<br />

designed the original campus buildings.<br />

A joint project of the City of Edinburg and<br />

UTPA is a new $5-million baseball stadium to<br />

be shared by the University’s Broncs and the<br />

Roadrunners, the second Texas-Louisiana<br />

League baseball franchise to locate in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Whitewings play<br />

in Harlingen as part of the league.<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> sites include its City Auditorium,<br />

built in 1927 and refurbished completely in the<br />

1990s, and the Southern Pacific Depot, now<br />

restored to house the city’s Chamber of<br />

Commerce and Economic Development offices.<br />

The Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum is a<br />

rich storehouse of the history of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and northern Mexico. It has developed<br />

into a major <strong>Valley</strong> attraction and is in the midst<br />

of a nearly $5.7-million expansion, a magnet<br />

for visitors to explore South Texas history.<br />

In addition to its focus on county government,<br />

agriculture and education, Edinburg<br />

has recently emerged as a center of industry,<br />

entertainment and business activity. The combination<br />

holds great promise for the future of<br />

its citizens in this city of beautiful homes,<br />

relaxed living, and cultural diversity.<br />

THE DELTA AREA<br />

The geographical heart of the <strong>Valley</strong> is a<br />

land of big farms and small towns, of<br />

uncurbed main streets and farm-to-market<br />

roads. It is called the “Delta Area” and includes<br />

the towns of Edcouch, Elsa, La Villa, and<br />

Monte Alto. These towns were formed along<br />

the route of the Southern Pacific Railroad<br />

when it crossed the <strong>Valley</strong> from Edinburg in<br />

1927. It made its way across the rich land of<br />

✧<br />

Top: New buildings keep sprouting up on the<br />

UTPA campus. Most follow the “Modern<br />

Spanish” style set by Kenneth Bentsen, who<br />

designed the original campus buildings.<br />

Additional land has been acquired for<br />

future expansion.<br />

Above: The Southern Pacific Railway Depot<br />

was completed in 1927 as part of a major<br />

railroad expansion into South Texas.<br />

Passenger service ceased in 1952, but<br />

freight service lasted until 1982. Through<br />

a concerted effort by area citizens, it<br />

was beautifully renovated and is now<br />

home to the Edinburg Chamber of<br />

Commerce and the Edinburg Economic<br />

Development Corporation.<br />

Left: The rich lands of the Delta Area<br />

produced high yields of vegetables, and<br />

farmers took their produce to the packing<br />

sheds that lined the Southern Pacific rail<br />

line. Shown is a beet harvest on the Jim<br />

Wade farm near Edcouch around 1930.<br />

COURTESY OF HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

155


✧<br />

Above: By the late 1940s, Elsa’s F. H.<br />

Vahlsing Plant had become the largest one<br />

in the world packing vegetables exclusively.<br />

This photo was taken from the Yearbook of<br />

the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas<br />

and Northern Mexico, 1949.<br />

Below: Elsa State Bank and Trust Company,<br />

which has served the Delta Area since 1945,<br />

is an independently owned full service<br />

community bank with branches in Edcouch,<br />

Weslaco, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, and Roma.<br />

the Delta Area about ten miles west of the first<br />

railroad that reached the <strong>Valley</strong> in 1904.<br />

ELSA: A PLANNED CITY<br />

Elsa was founded in March of 1927 by a<br />

city planning engineer, Major Edward A.<br />

Wood of Dallas. Its business, industrial and<br />

residential districts were laid out to provide<br />

for future expansion. When the auction to sell<br />

lots was held on March 2, 1927, the only<br />

residents were William and Elsie George. He<br />

was farming acreage adjacent to a lone<br />

country store operated by his wife. The<br />

Southern Pacific Railroad agreed to name the<br />

town for Elsie George, using the Spanish<br />

translation of Elsa. The town made it through<br />

the depression and was incorporated in 1940.<br />

By 1957 it had over sixty businesses and a<br />

growing population.<br />

From the 1940s to the 1970s, Elsa was<br />

headquarters for F. H. Vahlsing, Inc., which<br />

grew vegetables on several thousand acres and<br />

shipped them from one of the nation’s largest<br />

produce sheds. Vahlsing also produced<br />

polyethylene bags and films for farm products<br />

and industrial use at the large Texas Plastics<br />

plant. Elsa Canning Company, established by<br />

Carl Roettele, produced its famous Rotel<br />

tomatoes and green chiles and other products<br />

in Elsa for many years. However, by the<br />

1980s, these industries were gone, and Elsa’s<br />

economy faltered.<br />

As Elsa entered the new millennium, new<br />

subdivisions were springing up around the<br />

town. In March 2000 a grant from the U.S.<br />

Economic Development Administration sparked<br />

the development of a sixty-two-acre industrial<br />

park which is creating new businesses and jobs<br />

that are expected to enhance the economy.<br />

The Edcouch-Elsa School District is in the<br />

midst of a major building program and has<br />

received recent praise for its educational<br />

progress, musical performing groups and<br />

historic preservation.<br />

EDCOUCH: NAMED<br />

ITS FOUNDER<br />

FOR<br />

Just a mile to the east of Elsa is its sister<br />

city, Edcouch, also developed in 1927 and<br />

named for its founder, landowner, and banker<br />

Edward Couch, a co-founder of Weslaco in<br />

1919. By 1931 the town was shipping<br />

vegetables and citrus, growing cotton, and<br />

had a weekly newspaper, the Edcouch<br />

Enterprise. In the mid-1960s, Edcouch had a<br />

school, two churches, and 42 businesses.<br />

The changes in agriculture affected the<br />

economy of Edcouch. Freezes took a toll on<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

156


citrus and vegetable growing, and produce<br />

was increasingly being shipped out of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> by truck rather than rail.<br />

The beginning of the new millennium sees<br />

Edcouch in a growing mode again, visible in<br />

the improvement of its existing buildings and<br />

facilities and the construction of new ones. As<br />

in Elsa, school district construction is very<br />

visible and the school spirit of the combined<br />

district is strong and competitive. Much of<br />

community life is focused on school activities,<br />

as seen by the support it gives to its football<br />

team and to other school events.<br />

After Francisco Guajardo graduated with<br />

honors from Edcouch-Elsa High School in<br />

1983, he earned his B.A. in English and M. A.<br />

in History at UT-Austin, then received a fellowship<br />

to study at England’s Oxford<br />

University for a semester. Unlike so many<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> students who take their education elsewhere,<br />

he returned in 1990 to teach English<br />

and history at Edcouch-Elsa High School,<br />

then began to teach research methods.<br />

With the support of the school administration<br />

and area residents, the students are discovering<br />

and preserving their heritage<br />

through the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Center for Research<br />

and Development under young Guajardo’s<br />

guidance. Beginning in 1996, they applied for<br />

and received major grants from foundations.<br />

They have developed oral and written histories<br />

from interviews with their parents, grandparents,<br />

and other residents of Edcouch, Elsa,<br />

La Villa, and Monte Alto. The students wrote<br />

parts of all of the successful grant proposals<br />

for the project. They also have prepared grant<br />

proposals for the Boys and Girls Club and<br />

their public library.<br />

The project is aimed at giving the students<br />

and their communities a better appreciation of<br />

their history and identity in this bicultural,<br />

bilingual region of South Texas. In recent years,<br />

dozens of Edcouch-Elsa graduates have received<br />

scholarships to study at Ivy League universities<br />

and, like Guajardo, most are returning to live<br />

and work in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

LA VILLA: A PEACEFUL<br />

FARMING COMMUNITY<br />

A few miles east of Edcouch along the old<br />

Southern Pacific line lies La Villa, carved out<br />

of thick brush in 1926 by five farmers who<br />

pooled their land to form a town. In 1967, R.<br />

A. George, one of the founders, recalled in the<br />

Tip-O-Texan, “Lon C. Hill had some friends in<br />

the Southern Pacific and they gave him the<br />

privilege of establishing depots. He came to<br />

us to cut our land into lots and form a townsite.<br />

He got one-third of the lots, I believe, for<br />

his part in the deal. The railroad was built in<br />

1927 and we really advertised in the fall and<br />

early winter that year. But it seemed like every<br />

sale day we had a cold, rainy Norther….”<br />

✧<br />

Above: This building served as the Edcouch-<br />

Elsa High School for many years; it is now<br />

used by the school district for other<br />

purposes. Like other school districts over the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, Edcouch-Elsa is involved in a major<br />

building program, including a recently<br />

completed new high school.<br />

Below: This administration building is one<br />

of the new additions to Edcouch-Elsa<br />

Independent School District facilities.<br />

CHAPTER VII<br />

157


✧<br />

Above: Though La Villa may not have<br />

become the city its founders envisioned, it is<br />

the center of a peaceful and prosperous<br />

farming area that takes special pride in its<br />

excellent schools. This photograph shows La<br />

Villa High School.<br />

Below: Delta Orchard Clubhouse was a<br />

hotel at Delta Lake where land buyers from<br />

northern states were housed and entertained<br />

while courted as prospective buyers of land<br />

newly cleared of mesquite and cactus. After<br />

the land boom it was used for many<br />

purposes before fire destroyed it in 1997.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HARDING.<br />

La Villa, still the center of a peaceful farming<br />

community, shows signs of stable growth in<br />

2000. It takes pride in its modern school<br />

system, its high school football team, and the<br />

progress it has made since its incorporation in<br />

the 1960s. To the east between La Villa and<br />

Santa Rosa the big mill of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Sugar Growers stands guard over fields of<br />

sugarcane, cotton and grain. The area’s cotton<br />

gins turn out thousands of bales of cotton from<br />

June through August each year.<br />

MONTE ALTO & DELTA LAKE<br />

Land excursion parties were entertained in a<br />

grand manner at a regal three-story mansion<br />

near Delta Lake. This was the clubhouse for W.<br />

A. Harding’s “Delta Orchards” land company,<br />

completed in 1930 eight months after the Wall<br />

Street tumble. The great <strong>Valley</strong> land boom was<br />

over. Though the cities that Harding<br />

envisioned did not materialize, he left other<br />

legacies, such as the <strong>Valley</strong>’s largest playground<br />

of irrigation waters—Delta Lake. His son Rollo<br />

and grandson Glenn Harding conducted<br />

extensive farming operations in Hidalgo<br />

County, and philanthropic projects through the<br />

Harding Foundation have benefited many<br />

people in Texas and beyond.<br />

“As a child, I held the Delta Clubhouse in<br />

the same kind of awe as the Taj Mahal of<br />

India,” wrote Naomi Vivian Ridge, who grew<br />

up in Elsa, in the <strong>Valley</strong> Proud History-<br />

Cookbook in 1991. The beautiful clubhouse<br />

north of Monte Alto was used for many<br />

purposes in the years after its glory days, but<br />

was completely destroyed by fire in 1997.<br />

The community of Monte Alto was<br />

established in 1927 but remains unincorporated.<br />

It is part of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Empowerment<br />

Zone, which has been of special significance to<br />

the community for exploring development<br />

possibilities not available previously. Through<br />

community town hall meetings, its citizens<br />

developed a list of needed projects and<br />

prioritized them: flood/drainage improvements,<br />

fire station renovations, and construction of<br />

parks for starters. With county precinct support,<br />

the Empowerment Zone is enabling Monte Alto<br />

residents to revitalize their community.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

158


ENTERING THE<br />

TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY<br />

AGRICULTURE: FROM BRUSHLAND TO FARMLAND<br />

From the beginning of the Escandón colonization in 1749, Spanish settlers north of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> had productive livestock operations. Sheep were grown for the wool they produced, one of<br />

the region’s major exports through the 1800s, and cattle provided leather and meat products for sale<br />

and home use. Initially, Escandón had envisioned the development of irrigated farms, but efforts at<br />

irrigation met with limited success, so most of the land was covered with thorny brush until the<br />

Anglo development of the early 1900s.<br />

Those Anglo developers envisioned fields made green by water pumped from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. They<br />

were sure that crops would blossom in this southern location with its year-round growing season and<br />

fertile soil. They also believed that the massive job of manually clearing the land and that investments<br />

in irrigation systems would result in great profits from the sale of the improved land in farm-size blocks.<br />

One by one, the entrepreneurs established their kingdoms and began the transformation. Some<br />

made fortunes while others lost them, but by the end of the 1920s much of the cactus and<br />

brushland had become farmland. Irrigated farms now cover around 690,000 acres and dryland<br />

farms about 600,000 acres. Rangeland occupies over a million acres.<br />

✧<br />

The network of highways and overpasses<br />

built and maintained by Texas Department<br />

of Transportation District 21 provides easy<br />

access within and outside the area.<br />

COURTESY OF STEPHEN F. WALKER,<br />

TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION.<br />

SUGAR: ONCE<br />

& AGAIN<br />

Sugarcane was grown in several <strong>Valley</strong> locations before 1900 and was the big attraction for some<br />

of the early developers. John McAllen produced sugar in Hidalgo County in 1858; George Brulay<br />

had a sugar plantation and mill near Brownsville in 1875, and John Closner was raising sugarcane<br />

at his San Juan Plantation by 1900.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

159


✧<br />

Above: Sugarcane grows thick and tall today<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Fields are burned<br />

to remove leaves and chaff before being<br />

harvested mechanically. The mill, large<br />

harvesters, and trucks that haul the cane to<br />

the mill near Santa Rosa are owned by the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Cooperative.<br />

Below: There was a great celebration when<br />

the new sugar mill opened in 1974. Those<br />

attending the dedication included, from left,<br />

former U.S. Representative Joe Kilgore;<br />

Representative Kika de la Garza; Beryl<br />

Bentsen; Representative Bob Poage, then<br />

chairman of the House Agriculture<br />

Committee; and Senator Lloyd Bentsen, Jr.<br />

De la Garza followed Poage as chairman<br />

of the House Agriculture Committee in<br />

1981, serving until he retired from Congress<br />

in 1996.<br />

Then the developers gave it a try. When A.<br />

F. Hester and T. J. Hooks settled in Run (also<br />

spelled “Runn”) in 1903, sugarcane was their<br />

first crop and a mill was built in Donna. Lon<br />

Hill built a mill in Harlingen but it was<br />

burned by bandits in 1912. Sam Robertson<br />

built one in San Benito but it never produced<br />

any sugar. As the land salted up from overirrigation<br />

and sugar prices declined, the mills<br />

ceased operation until Donna had the only<br />

active mill. It closed in 1921 when the price<br />

of sugar dropped to four cents a pound.<br />

Sugarcane was not grown commercially for<br />

the next fifty years.<br />

A new sugar industry emerged from USDA<br />

and Texas A&M cooperative research in the<br />

1960s. A marketing quota of one hundred<br />

thousand tons of raw sugar was granted to<br />

Texas in 1972 by the U.S. government. An<br />

initial investment of $31 million for field<br />

equipment and a sugar mill at Santa Rosa was<br />

financed by 120 growers of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers Cooperative. The first<br />

crop was harvested in 1973-74.<br />

The sugarcane grown in the early 1900s was<br />

cut and stripped by hand. Today’s crop is highly<br />

mechanized. The cane is burned in the field<br />

before harvest to remove the excess foliage and<br />

chaff; which, if ground with the stalks, reduce<br />

the yield of sugar. The growers cooperative<br />

owns the huge harvesting equipment and the<br />

mill that turns the cane into raw sugar and<br />

produces molasses as a by-product. Sugarcane<br />

is now grown on some forty thousand acres,<br />

bringing in around $58 million annually. Each<br />

year the mill processes more than a million tons<br />

of cane, producing over 100,000 tons of raw<br />

sugar and 50,000 tons of molasses. The brown<br />

sugar travels by barge to Louisiana where it is<br />

refined into white sugar. The molasses is sold as<br />

cattle feed and shipped by rail or truck.<br />

VEGETABLES<br />

& MELONS<br />

Vegetables formed the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first great<br />

agricultural bonanza for transplanted<br />

Midwestern farmers able to grow two or three<br />

crops of vegetables a year. The production of<br />

winter vegetables reached commercial<br />

importance in 1907, when 761 carloads of<br />

vegetables, mostly cabbage and onions, left the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. Though more than forty vegetables were<br />

grown through the years, cabbage, carrots,<br />

beets, broccoli, parsley, and onions are the<br />

winter vegetables that have been grown<br />

consistently through the years. Tomatoes,<br />

potatoes, roasting ear corn, beans, peppers,<br />

eggplant, southern peas, cucumbers, squash,<br />

and vine crops are the warm season vegetables<br />

that have maintained their popularity with<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> growers during both the spring and fall<br />

growing seasons. Cantaloupe, honeydews,<br />

watermelon, and okra have typically been<br />

grown commercially only in the spring and<br />

early summer.<br />

Mule-drawn wagons hauled the loads of<br />

fresh produce to packing sheds adjacent to rail<br />

lines, where the produce was graded, packed,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

160


iced down, and sent to market. Produce sheds<br />

lined the railroad tracks in each of the young<br />

cities. As with the land developers, fortunes<br />

were made—and some were lost in the produce<br />

business. When World War II came with its<br />

great demand for food for the troops and the<br />

nation, <strong>Valley</strong> farmers responded with<br />

thousands of cars of vegetables and citrus each<br />

year and prospered.<br />

Meanwhile, tractors replaced mules, and<br />

farm mechanization was on its way. Research<br />

provided new varieties and improved old ones.<br />

Farmers had almost quit growing cantaloupes<br />

until Texas A&M researchers developed<br />

varieties resistant to downy and powdery<br />

mildews in the early 1950s. Later research<br />

resulted in the popular 1015 sweet onion,<br />

Roma tomatoes, a mild jalapeño pepper used<br />

in picante sauces, new grapefruit cultivars, and<br />

the new maroon carrots, to name a few.<br />

Researchers also provided information on soils,<br />

fertilizer, irrigation, and cultivation practices. A<br />

major step forward was the introduction of<br />

chemical herbicides that eliminated hand<br />

hoeing of vegetables, cotton, and other crops<br />

and constant disking of citrus orchards.<br />

Vegetable production changed drastically<br />

during the last half of the twentieth century.<br />

Today, <strong>Valley</strong> farms are fewer, yet larger, more<br />

specialized and more expensive to operate, yet<br />

they are also much more productive. While<br />

occupying less than 25 percent of the<br />

cultivated land, vegetables bring in more than<br />

25 percent of agricultural revenue. In 2000,<br />

some 50,000 acres were planted to vegetables<br />

and melons in the four <strong>Valley</strong> counties, for an<br />

estimated income of $140 million.<br />

citrus acreage from 120,000 acres to 20,000<br />

acres. Through the drought years of the early<br />

1950s the industry replanted, only to be struck<br />

by another hard freeze in January 1962. After<br />

rebuilding to 70,000 acres, an extremely severe<br />

freeze on Christmas Day, 1983, killed trees<br />

across the <strong>Valley</strong> and again reduced citrus<br />

acreage to about 20,000 acres. A burst of<br />

replanting, due in part to the success of the Star<br />

Ruby and new <strong>Rio</strong> Red grapefruit, brought<br />

acreage back up to thirty-five thousand acres<br />

when it happened again. The second Christmas<br />

Day freeze struck in 1989. The freeze left the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> with only eleven thousand acres of citrus.<br />

Fortunately, a citrus tree insurance program<br />

was in place during the 1983 and 1989 freezes<br />

through Texas Citrus Mutual, which enabled<br />

the industry to rebuild once again.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Carrots being harvested on a<br />

farm near Los Fresnos around 1950.<br />

Carrots grown on today’s farms are<br />

machine harvested.<br />

Below: These are just a few of the more than<br />

fifty varieties of vegetables grown on <strong>Valley</strong><br />

farms that are shipped all over the U.S. and<br />

sold locally at roadside stands.<br />

COURTESY OF EILEEN MATTEI.<br />

CITRUS KEEPS COMING BACK<br />

Governor Allan Shivers used to refer to<br />

citrus as “the <strong>Valley</strong>’s glamour crop.” Ever<br />

since his father-in-law, John Shary, “the father<br />

of Texas Citrus” pushed the planting of citrus<br />

in the 1910-1930 era, it has been the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

trademark. By the late 1940s, citrus covered<br />

120,000 acres and yielded good profits.<br />

Unfortunately, citrus trees are subject to<br />

freezes, and tree-killing freezes have devastated<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s citrus industry several times. Two<br />

freezes in two years, 1949 and 1951, reduced<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

161


ship choice <strong>Valley</strong> citrus nationwide from<br />

November to March.<br />

CANNING BECOMES<br />

BIG BUSINESS<br />

Meanwhile, <strong>Valley</strong> growers found there were<br />

not always markets for the bounty of fruits and<br />

vegetables produced by their land, so they<br />

turned their attention toward canning their<br />

products. Aided by research done by the USDA’s<br />

Fruit and Vegetable Products Laboratory at<br />

Weslaco, the number of canneries increased to<br />

over forty in the 1940s. Most every town had its<br />

own canning plant, with several in the major<br />

cities. In 1946 they processed twenty million<br />

cases of fruits and vegetables that were shipped<br />

over the nation and to world markets through<br />

the Port of Brownsville.<br />

The largest canning plant in Texas and one<br />

of the largest and most modern grapefruitprocessing<br />

plants in the world was the Texsun<br />

plant at Weslaco operated by the Texsun<br />

Citrus Corporation. With more than ten acres<br />

of floor space under roof, it could process two<br />

hundred tons of fruit daily and offered tours<br />

to visitors that became a major tourist<br />

attraction. It operated for more than four<br />

decades until devastating freezes decreased its<br />

fruit supply and it ceased operation. In 2000<br />

there were only two canning plants, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Canning Company in Donna and Texas Citrus<br />

Exchange in Mission. Most vegetables and<br />

citrus are now shipped in refrigerated trucks<br />

or rail cars to be sold on the fresh market or<br />

to freezer plants in Texas and other states.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Citrus, the <strong>Valley</strong>’s “glamour crop” is<br />

grown on fewer acres now than in its<br />

heyday, but it is still important in <strong>Valley</strong><br />

agriculture. Fresh grapefruit and oranges<br />

are harvested from October to April.<br />

Above: When fresh markets were slow,<br />

canning became popular. The huge Texsun<br />

plant at Weslaco had more than ten acres of<br />

floor space under roof. It was the largest<br />

canning plant in Texas and the largest<br />

grapefruit cannery in the world.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

By 2000, the acreage had grown again<br />

to 33,000 acres, of which over 23,000 acres<br />

is grapefruit.<br />

The reddest of all grapefruit, Star Ruby and<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Red, were developed by the Texas A&M-<br />

Kingsville Citrus Center at Weslaco under Dr.<br />

Richard Hensz’ direction. They have brought<br />

worldwide recognition to Texas citrus.<br />

Citrus is marketed commercially through<br />

TexaSweet Citrus Marketing, located in the<br />

Mission Business Park, as is the grower<br />

organization, Texas Citrus Mutual. The Texas<br />

Citrus Exchange, a cooperative, processes the<br />

fruit that is not sold fresh. Gift fruit firms also<br />

COTTON<br />

While cotton was grown in the <strong>Valley</strong> in the<br />

1890s, it did not reach commercial production<br />

levels until the 1920s. It has had an up and down<br />

history, with between 50,000 and 150,000 bales<br />

produced annually until the early 1940s.<br />

However, 627,549 bales were produced in 1951,<br />

when the freeze made more land available for<br />

cotton and helped control insects. Since then,<br />

production settled in at around 300,000 bales a<br />

year for several decades. Cotton is a major factor<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong> economy, even in bad years, because<br />

of its many spin-off businesses—suppliers of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

162


seed, fertilizer, insecticides, and other production<br />

inputs; cotton gins, compresses, and cottonseed<br />

oil mills; truckers and other transportation; fuel,<br />

maintenance, etc.<br />

The beginning of the new millennium finds<br />

cotton with low prices caused by an oversupply<br />

in the world market and production<br />

costs at all-time highs. Cotton is grown on<br />

250,000 acres in an average year, bringing in<br />

$75 to $90 million to the growers, with a<br />

much larger economic impact through related<br />

businesses. With confidence that the market<br />

will improve, determined cotton growers<br />

continue to tighten their belts and plant again.<br />

GRAIN SORGHUM BECOMES<br />

A HUGE CROP<br />

Grain sorghum arrived late on the<br />

agricultural scene and may not be considered a<br />

glamour crop, but in recent years it has covered<br />

more farmland than any other crop. It is grown<br />

on both irrigated and dry land, and its<br />

production is highly mechanized. Research<br />

continues toward improving resistance to insects<br />

and diseases and increasing production per acre.<br />

For years cotton and grain alternated for<br />

the largest number of acres. Sorghum has had<br />

the most acreage of late, with 400,000 acres in<br />

2000, bringing in about $58 million. Much of<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>-grown grain sorghum is exported<br />

by truck to Mexico.<br />

CORN<br />

Corn acreage has gone up and down in<br />

recent years and currently is grown on around<br />

sixty thousand acres. Some of this is seed corn<br />

grown under contract with a major seed<br />

producer. Field corn for animals occupies the<br />

largest portion of the acreage, and sweet corn<br />

is produced on a small acreage for table use.<br />

Some <strong>Valley</strong> corn is processed into snack<br />

foods like corn chips and Mexican specialties<br />

like tamales that require masa, or corn flour.<br />

Container crops are primarily landscaping<br />

plants, widely used within the <strong>Valley</strong> and<br />

shipped to other areas. Foliage crops are<br />

grown for indoor decorative plants. While the<br />

smaller nurseries primarily ship within Texas,<br />

there are several commercial nurseries that<br />

ship worldwide. One of the major drawing<br />

cards of the nursery business is that the return<br />

per square foot of space is higher than most<br />

other crops; however, it is labor intensive, and<br />

the production costs are high.<br />

The Texas A&M Research Center has<br />

horticulturists on staff to work with area<br />

nurseries. Of special interest is current<br />

research on growing exotic plants such as<br />

orchids in Texas.<br />

ALOE<br />

VERA<br />

Aloe vera is often nicknamed the “miracle<br />

plant.” Many <strong>Valley</strong> residents keep one in the<br />

garden to provide instant first aid for minor<br />

cuts and burns. They merely cut off a small<br />

portion of a leaf and rub the interior gel on<br />

the irritated area. Cosmetic manufacturers use<br />

aloe vera in skin creams, sunburn lotions, and<br />

✧<br />

Above: Cotton is a staple crop planted on<br />

around 250,000 acres each year that yields<br />

about that number of bales. Since World<br />

War II, small planes have done the<br />

spraying of insecticides to try to keep insects<br />

under control.<br />

Below: Grain sorghum was grown on the<br />

largest number of acres of any crop in 2000.<br />

Much <strong>Valley</strong> grain is exported by truck to<br />

Mexico for cattle feed.<br />

NURSERY<br />

& HORTICULTURE<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s thriving nursery industry has<br />

three types of specialty crops. Field crops<br />

include citrus, shade and palm trees.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

163


✧<br />

Livestock provided the main focus of the<br />

original Spanish settlers and is still<br />

important in the area's agriculture today.<br />

The Santa Gertrudis breed developed by the<br />

King Ranch is one of the breeds well<br />

adapted to area ranches.<br />

COURTESY OF SANTA GERTRUDIS<br />

BREEDERS INTERNATIONAL.<br />

other preparations. However, its greatest<br />

usage is as a health beverage. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> has the right combination of climate,<br />

soil, and water to produce the “miracle” gel in<br />

commercial quantities. The area has several<br />

large aloe vera farms that harvest the leaves<br />

and ship them nationwide and even overseas<br />

to processors, largely cosmetic manufacturers.<br />

KENAF IS THE<br />

VALLEY’ S NEWEST CROP<br />

Kenaf, the area’s newest crop, could provide<br />

an alternate crop for up to twenty-three<br />

thousand acres annually. Work continues on<br />

plans to build a kenaf fiber newsprint mill in<br />

Willacy County. Such a plant would take 18<br />

months to build and create more than 300 jobs<br />

when completed. It would be the first newsprint<br />

company to utilize an annual crop for its raw<br />

materials, preserving timber resources. It could<br />

produce 135,000 metric tons of newsprint<br />

annually, for which there is a ready market. Kenaf<br />

Industries already produces non-woven mats,<br />

items auto manufacturers use in interior car<br />

parts, and other products at its plant near Lasara.<br />

Kenaf was introduced to the <strong>Valley</strong> in the<br />

1980s with research conducted since that<br />

time by the USDA and <strong>Rio</strong> Farms. The fastest<br />

growing member of the hibiscus family, kenaf<br />

reaches heights of seven to ten feet and can<br />

grow in the <strong>Valley</strong> on rainwater received in<br />

wet years. It is currently growing on more<br />

than five thousand acres in Willacy and<br />

Hidalgo Counties. Planting takes place in the<br />

spring and harvesting is done from August<br />

through January.<br />

LIVESTOCK<br />

Livestock provided the main focus of the<br />

original Spanish settlers, and the famed<br />

Chisholm Trail originated here. The cattle on<br />

today’s farms and ranches would hardly<br />

recognize their forebears. While many cattle<br />

breeds have since been introduced, some have<br />

gone by the wayside because of the South<br />

Texas climate. To produce cattle sturdy<br />

enough to live on the non-irrigated rangeland,<br />

ranchers have experimented with crossbreeding,<br />

such as the famous Santa Gertrudis breed<br />

developed by the King Ranch. Some of today’s<br />

cattle producers concentrate on raising prime<br />

breeding stock from registered herds, such as<br />

Santa Gertrudis, Charolais, and Brahman.<br />

The annual <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Livestock<br />

Show held in March in Mercedes is credited<br />

with much of the improvement in the<br />

industry by educating young exhibitors and<br />

encouraging them to raise livestock on a fulltime<br />

or part-time basis. A vital part of the life<br />

and economy of the area, the livestock<br />

industry provides about fifteen percent of its<br />

agricultural income.<br />

PROGRESS THROUGH RESEARCH<br />

Agricultural scientists have been a major<br />

reason for the success of agriculture in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. They work diligently to<br />

improve crop varieties; yields; insect, disease<br />

and weather resistance; soil and water use;<br />

production and harvesting methodology; and<br />

marketing of <strong>Valley</strong>-grown products. More<br />

importantly, they work closely with the<br />

agricultural community by putting their<br />

research to practical use.<br />

TEXAS A & M<br />

UNIVERSITY SYSTEM<br />

In 1923 what is now the sprawling Texas<br />

A&M Research and Extension Center at Weslaco<br />

was initiated following an appropriation of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

164


$50,000 by the Thirty-eighth Texas Legislature.<br />

It was their response to a rather insistent demand<br />

by the people of the <strong>Valley</strong> for the establishment<br />

of an agricultural experiment station that would<br />

study area problems. The citizens’ interest didn’t<br />

stop with securing the appropriation. They<br />

contributed funds to purchase the land and have<br />

continued to provide land and other support<br />

through the years.<br />

In 1973, the station celebrated fifty years<br />

of going and growing, described in its<br />

publication, Fifty Years of Agricultural Research<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas. It tells how,<br />

for fifty years, one of the richest farming areas<br />

in Texas has looked to the station to solve<br />

some of the toughest problems with citrus,<br />

vegetables, cotton and other crops in this<br />

state’s only subtropical region. And time and<br />

time again, the station came up with a new<br />

variety, a new disease control, or a revised<br />

farming practice that has enabled some part of<br />

the agriculture in this region to keep going<br />

and growing.<br />

Texas A&M serves <strong>Valley</strong> agriculture<br />

through the research of its agricultural<br />

scientists and then by getting that information<br />

to farmers through its extension agents. It has<br />

specialists in over a dozen areas, including the<br />

economics of farming and the use of computers<br />

in farm planning and record keeping.<br />

The Texas A&M University-Kingsville Citrus<br />

Center began in 1944 as an extension of Texas<br />

A&I University at Kingsville. Again, <strong>Valley</strong><br />

citizens contributed the land. It became part of<br />

the Texas A&M System in 1992 and continues<br />

its research and education in disease and pest<br />

control, soils, irrigation, nutrition, herbicides,<br />

tree physiology, citriculture, cultivar<br />

development, phytochemistry, and biogenetics.<br />

The subtropical climate and geographical<br />

location of the <strong>Valley</strong> encourages invasion by a<br />

myriad of plant and livestock insects and<br />

diseases. Through its staff entomologists and<br />

plant pathologists, the center is constantly<br />

working on ways to control pests and diseases.<br />

Dr. Jose Amador, who came to the center as an<br />

extension plant pathologist in 1965, has been<br />

the center’s director since 1991.<br />

The Texas A&M Center staff works in<br />

close cooperation with its companion<br />

research institutions.<br />

U . S . DEPARTMENT<br />

AGRICULTURE<br />

OF<br />

In 1931 the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s<br />

Agricultural Research Service<br />

established the headquarters for its<br />

Subtropical Texas Area in Weslaco. Now in its<br />

new headquarters adjacent to Texas A&M, the<br />

two research giants form one agricultural<br />

complex just east of Weslaco by U.S. Business<br />

83. Named the Kika de la Garza Subtropical<br />

Agricultural Research Center in honor of the<br />

Fifteenth District’s longtime Congressman and<br />

House Agriculture Committee Chairman, it<br />

includes a honeybee lab; greenhouses, soil<br />

and water laboratory; remote sensing;<br />

beneficial insects, crop quality and fruit<br />

insects; and integrated farming and natural<br />

resources research units.<br />

Early activities included a Food Crops<br />

Utilization Research Laboratory to assist the<br />

food processing industry, especially citrus. The<br />

USDA operated the successful Pink Bollworm<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Texas A&M/USDA Research<br />

Center just east of Weslaco contains<br />

research and extension facilities, a honeybee<br />

lab, soil and water laboratory, many<br />

greenhouses, fields for experimental<br />

plantings, and much more.<br />

PHOTO BY RENE DAVIS.<br />

Below: The new USDA/ARS headquarters<br />

was dedicated in 1999 and named the Kika<br />

de la Garza Subtropical Agricultural<br />

Research Center in honor of the Fifteenth<br />

District’s longtime Congressman and House<br />

Agriculture Committee Chairman. Shown at<br />

the dedication are Congressman Rubén<br />

Hinojosa; U.S. Senator Kay Bailey<br />

Hutchison, de la Garza, and Dr. I. Miley<br />

Gonzalez, USDA under secretary for<br />

Research, Economics and Education,<br />

Washington, D.C.<br />

PHOTO BY RENE DAVIS.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

165


✧<br />

Dignitaries from over the U.S. and Mexico<br />

came to the <strong>Valley</strong> for the dedication of<br />

Falcon Dam by Mexican President Adolfo<br />

Ruiz Cortines and U.S. President Dwight<br />

Eisenhower on October 19, 1953. The<br />

dedication of the great dam was the result<br />

of almost two decades of work, planning<br />

and construction.<br />

COURTESY OF W. GENE SMITH.<br />

Research Center at Brownsville in the 1950s<br />

and 1960s, which closed when its mission was<br />

accomplished. The USDA’s Screwworm<br />

Eradication Project’s sterile fly factory was<br />

established in 1962 at the old Moore Air Force<br />

Base north of Mission. It battled this flesheating<br />

pest that was devastating the cattle<br />

industry and succeeded in controlling it in both<br />

the United States and Mexico by releasing<br />

radiated, sterile males. Among both USDA and<br />

A&M’s current projects are research in<br />

biological pest control to reduce the use of<br />

environmentally harmful chemicals.<br />

RIO FARMS EXPLORE<br />

NEW CROPS<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Farms, Inc. near Monte Alto began as a<br />

unique on-the-farm training program in 1941.<br />

The State of Texas issued a charter for a nonprofit<br />

corporation, and the Farm Security<br />

Administration lent the corporation $1,266,350<br />

to purchase 25,883 acres in Hidalgo and Willacy<br />

Counties, 17,000 of them under irrigation. This<br />

loan was to be repaid in fifty years, but the entire<br />

loan was liquidated in 1945. All income goes<br />

back into the organization, which is governed by<br />

a board of directors.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Farms operates as a foundation-owned<br />

experiment station, with agricultural education<br />

and research as part of its mission. Initially, its<br />

goals were to meet the social problems of lowincome<br />

families, to assist them in getting<br />

agricultural benefits and in marketing their<br />

products, and to train them to farm<br />

successfully. Each tenant family could stay up<br />

to five years while learning efficient farming<br />

methods on the 80 to 120 acres assigned to<br />

them, save their earnings, and then move on to<br />

a farm of their own.<br />

Some of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s most productive farmers<br />

of the 1940-1960 era got their start at <strong>Rio</strong> Farms<br />

as tenant-trainees. By the 1990s, over eight<br />

hundred tenants had received their on-the-farm<br />

education there and had moved on to farms or<br />

businesses of their own.<br />

Adjusting to changing needs and times, <strong>Rio</strong><br />

Farms, Inc. is now a private, non-profit<br />

corporation that conducts research to benefit<br />

local agricultural production. It works in<br />

conjunction with the Texas A&M Research<br />

Center and the USDA. Some of its greatest<br />

successes have focused on citrus, sugarcane<br />

and kenaf, a new crop for producing newsprint<br />

and other high-fiber products.<br />

Major corporations have sought out the<br />

research scientists and controlled farming<br />

facilities at <strong>Rio</strong> Farms to improve current<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> farm products as well as to investigate<br />

potential crops. Ongoing projects include<br />

testing new niche crops, grain, and sugarcane,<br />

as well as investigating insect control,<br />

cultivation and irrigation practices, to name a<br />

few. <strong>Rio</strong> Farms, its research scientists, and<br />

participating farmers make a vital contribution<br />

to <strong>Valley</strong> agricultural research.<br />

There is no way to predict how future <strong>Valley</strong><br />

agriculture will fare in the face of an uncertain<br />

irrigation water supply and competing land<br />

uses such as urbanization and wilderness<br />

conversion/conservation. These areas of land<br />

use are expanding with the growth of the cities<br />

and the expansion of the various federal wildlife<br />

refuges that take farmland back to brushland.<br />

Losses in agricultural production may be<br />

partially offset by the growing ecotourism<br />

industry with its heightened appreciation of the<br />

region’s natural resources.<br />

TAMING THE RIO GRANDE<br />

There was great excitement in South Texas<br />

in October 1953 when U.S. President Dwight<br />

Eisenhower and Mexican President Adolfo<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

166


Ruiz Cortines came to the <strong>Valley</strong> to dedicate<br />

Falcon Dam. The dedication ceremonies on<br />

October 19 followed a three-day <strong>Valley</strong> stay<br />

by President Eisenhower as a guest of then<br />

Governor Allan Shivers in Sharyland.<br />

The two presidents first met in the<br />

municipal building of the new town of Nuevo<br />

Guerrero for a ceremonial visit, with each<br />

honored by twenty-one-gun salutes. At 3 p.m.<br />

on October 19, 1953, the official dedication<br />

was held at the international line atop Falcon<br />

Dam. After the two presidents spoke to the<br />

thousands of Americans and Mexicans<br />

present, the monument marking the<br />

international boundary was unveiled.<br />

The dedication of the great dam was the<br />

result of almost two decades of work, planning<br />

and construction. In the early years of<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s agricultural boom, water for irrigation<br />

was usually plentiful from the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>. However, the river often flooded.<br />

Then there would be long periods without<br />

rain when there was not enough water.<br />

In the mid-1930s, discussions began about<br />

building a dam to control the floods and store<br />

the water being wasted into the Gulf. The<br />

1848 Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo forbade the<br />

building of dams on the international stream,<br />

so a new treaty was needed. The International<br />

Boundary and Water Commission (IBWC) had<br />

worked together on a system of levees and<br />

interior floodways to lessen damage from<br />

floods in both countries. They looked for a<br />

way for the two countries to build dams for<br />

flood control and water conservation.<br />

After long negotiations, the U.S.-Mexico<br />

Water Treaty of 1944 was signed. It called for<br />

the two governments to build three<br />

international dams along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> to<br />

control its wild floods, to store and conserve the<br />

water flowing unused into the Gulf of Mexico,<br />

and to use the stored water to generate electric<br />

power as it passed downstream. The two<br />

countries agreed on a site that would provide the<br />

most efficient storage. Then planning began in<br />

earnest in the office of the chief engineer of the<br />

Bureau of Reclamation, Denver, Colorado,<br />

under the supervision of the two sections of the<br />

IBWC. Separate contracts were let by each<br />

country for work to be done on their part of the<br />

huge project.<br />

Construction on Falcon Dam began on<br />

January 2, 1950. One of the longest dams in<br />

the world, it spans the <strong>Valley</strong> of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> a short distance downstream from the<br />

line between Starr and Zapata Counties. A<br />

rolled earthfill structure, it is 26,294 feet long,<br />

with 16,161 feet in Mexico and 10,133 feet in<br />

the United States. It used massive amounts of<br />

materials, covers 113,000 acres when filled,<br />

and can store 4,085,000 acre-feet of water.<br />

Initial cost of the dam was around $50<br />

million, not including the cost of moving two<br />

county seat towns and other smaller<br />

communities flooded by the lake. On the<br />

Texas side, the old border city of Zapata was<br />

moved five miles to the east, where a new<br />

courthouse, new schools and other facilities<br />

for a modern community were built by the<br />

IBWC. The buildings and homes were moved<br />

to their new location by their owners.<br />

The Mexican government moved the citizens<br />

of Guerrero lock-stock-and-barrel some twenty<br />

miles to Nuevo Guerrero, where a brand new<br />

city was built from the ground up. In addition<br />

to municipal buildings built around a plaza,<br />

seven hundred new homes were built for the<br />

residents of Guerrero. When the waters recede<br />

in dry periods, the ruins of picturesque<br />

Guerrero Viejo emerge, and the site has become<br />

a major tourist attraction.<br />

✧<br />

The rolled earthfill structure is 26,294 feet<br />

long and the initial cost was $50 million,<br />

not including relocating two county seat<br />

towns and other smaller communities<br />

flooded by the lake. The top of the dam<br />

forms a highway from the U.S. to Nuevo<br />

Guerrero, Mexico. A monument to the two<br />

countries marks the boundary line.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

167


✧<br />

Above: The most famous of the flooded<br />

communities was Guerrero Viejo, which was<br />

covered by the waters of Falcon Dam for<br />

several decades, shown in 1975. Its ruins<br />

emerged from the water during the drought<br />

years of the 1990s and the long-flooded city<br />

has become a major tourist attraction as<br />

well as the focus of Mexican citizens whose<br />

heritage lies in the old town.<br />

Below: Falcon Lake, Dam, and Spillway are<br />

shown in the 1980s when the water was at<br />

a high level. Though engineers predicted it<br />

would take ten years to fill, it was filled in<br />

1954, its first year, by rains from Hurricane<br />

Alice that fell in the watershed.<br />

From 1950 to 1953 rainfall was scarce and<br />

the area was in a major drought. Falcon Dam<br />

was not expected to provide much help initially<br />

because engineers predicted it would take about<br />

a decade for the reservoir to fill. They were<br />

wrong. Hurricane Alice slammed into Mexico,<br />

raced up the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and dumped millions<br />

of gallons into the watershed, filling up Falcon<br />

in a matter of days.<br />

Since, Falcon Dam has provided a regulated<br />

water supply for domestic, municipal, and<br />

irrigation uses in both countries. In its first year<br />

of operation in 1954, Falcon Reservoir<br />

completely contained the highest flood of<br />

record on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, which otherwise<br />

would have caused devastating damages in the<br />

highly developed <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. In 1967, it<br />

completely contained the portion of the<br />

Hurricane Beulah flood originating upstream of<br />

the dam, which otherwise would have caused<br />

much more extensive damage than occurred.<br />

In long periods of drought, the storage levels<br />

are carefully monitored and conservation<br />

measures encouraged.<br />

A second dam for flood control and water<br />

storage, Amistad Dam, was built between Del<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>, Texas, and Ciudad Acuña, Coahuila,<br />

Mexico, just below the mouths of two large<br />

tributaries, the Pecos and Devil’s Rivers. It was<br />

dedicated on September 9, 1969, by U.S.<br />

President Richard Nixon and Mexican President<br />

Díaz Ordaz. Some of the water destined for the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> is stored at Amistad and released<br />

downstream as needed.<br />

Anzalduas Diversion Dam west of Mission<br />

diverts floodwaters from the river to the United<br />

States floodways and provides Mexico with an<br />

intake structure to its Anzalduas Irrigation<br />

Canal. Retamal Diversion Dam near Donna is<br />

also a principal part of the international flood<br />

control project. It diverts flood waters from the<br />

river to the Mexican floodways.<br />

BRIDGES OF THE RIO GRANDE<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, so important in the history<br />

of Texas and Mexico, defines the border region.<br />

Now harnessed by great dams to prevent floods<br />

and store its waters, its bridges connect sister<br />

cities of the United States and Mexico. There<br />

are eleven current border crossings, each with<br />

its own storied history.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

168


Before there were bridges, row boats and flatbottom<br />

ferry boats carried people and<br />

merchandise back and forth across the river. The<br />

coming of the railroad spurred Brownsville to<br />

build the first real bridge, the Brownsville and<br />

Matamoros (B&M) Bridge in 1909. Built to<br />

handle heavy railroad traffic, it also carried<br />

wagons at first, then cars and trucks. The original<br />

bridge proved to be a sound structure and is still<br />

in use. A $500,000 maintenance and repair<br />

project was initiated in 2000 to enable the bridge<br />

to handle increased traffic. Railroad traffic on the<br />

bridge, which is jointly owned by Union Pacific<br />

Railroad and Mexico, was up thirty percent in<br />

2000 over the previous year. In 1997 an adjacent<br />

parallel span was added to handle vehicular<br />

traffic. About three hundred southbound trucks<br />

cross the bridge daily, most carrying steel coils<br />

and components for assembly at maquiladoras.<br />

Even with two other Brownsville bridges, traffic<br />

continues to increase.<br />

The population and traffic between<br />

Brownsville and Matamoros had increased<br />

until a bridge for vehicular traffic was needed,<br />

and Brownsville’s Gateway International<br />

Bridge was opened on July 4, 1928. Through<br />

the years new traffic lanes have been added<br />

and many improvements made to the bridge<br />

and its customs and immigration facilities. A<br />

covered walkway has been added to make<br />

pedestrian access easier and safer. With truck<br />

traffic being diverted to the new Veterans<br />

Bridge, Gateway has become a consumer<br />

bridge linking the downtown business<br />

districts of Brownsville and Matamoros.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s newest bridge is Brownsville’s<br />

third crossing, the Veterans International Bridge<br />

at Los Tomates, which opened on April 30, 1999<br />

after twenty years of planning. Mexican President<br />

Ernesto Zedillo and Texas Governor George W.<br />

Bush were among the officials who took part in<br />

the dedication ceremonies in the middle of the<br />

new bridge. Located east of downtown and<br />

equipped with the latest technology, the bridge<br />

serves as a direct connection between the U.S.<br />

77/83 Expressway and the Periférico, a six-toeight-lane<br />

loop around Matamoros. Designed<br />

for both commercial and consumer traffic, it<br />

leads to the major arteries that go to Ciudad<br />

Victoria, Reynosa, and all destinations in the<br />

interior of Mexico.<br />

Moving upriver, the next crossing is the Free<br />

Trade Bridge at Los Indios, south of San Benito<br />

and Harlingen. The two cities combined their<br />

efforts for nearly three decades to finally bring<br />

the bridge to completion in November 1992. It<br />

connects the growing industrial areas of<br />

Harlingen and San Benito with industrial parks<br />

in Mexico and leads about twenty-five miles to<br />

Valle Hermosa. There the highway connects<br />

with routes to major Mexican cities. Designed<br />

for both commercial and consumer traffic, it<br />

offers a unique mix of modern design, strategic<br />

location, and the physical capacity to<br />

accommodate large volumes of traffic quickly<br />

and efficiently. Consumer traffic is separated<br />

from the commercial traffic and there are<br />

completely different customs facilities. The<br />

Gateway, Veterans, and Free Trade Bridges are<br />

owned and operated by Cameron County,<br />

providing a three-bridge system that makes<br />

visiting and trading with Mexico easier.<br />

✧<br />

Top: The approach to Brownsville’s present<br />

Gateway Bridge shows some of the<br />

complex support facilities required at<br />

international bridges in modern times,<br />

including customs, immigration, USDA<br />

inspectors, and bridge security.<br />

Above: The Progreso International Bridge,<br />

built in 1952, is widely used by both area<br />

citizens and tourists. Here a group heads for<br />

the pedestrian lane to walk across to Nuevo<br />

Progreso. The original bridge is still in use,<br />

with a new span to be built soon.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

169


✧<br />

Above: Ferry and rowboat service took<br />

travelers back and forth between Reynosa<br />

and Hidalgo until the first bridge was built.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CITY OF HIDALGO.<br />

Below: Once the new bridge was built<br />

between Hidalgo and Reynosa in 1926, it<br />

carried a steady stream of traffic during<br />

peak times. George Cole, engineer for three<br />

suspension bridges at <strong>Rio</strong> Rico, Hidalgo, and<br />

Roma, later built the bridge over the Royal<br />

Gorge in Colorado, then returned to spend<br />

his retirement years in McAllen.<br />

COURTESY OF CHUCK SNYDER.<br />

The Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> got its first bridge during the<br />

prohibition years of the 1920s, when Mexico<br />

held a strong attraction for U.S. visitors. The<br />

B&P Bridge Company decided to construct a<br />

bridge halfway between Hidalgo and<br />

Brownsville just east of the Mercedes pumping<br />

station, where the river bank was strong and the<br />

channel narrow. The two-lane suspension<br />

bridge was completed in 1928 and was linked<br />

by paved road to the Texas highway system.<br />

Then the small border town of <strong>Rio</strong> Rico was<br />

established. The new town prospered, offering<br />

American tourists bars, night clubs with dancing<br />

and mariachi bands, souvenir shops, and<br />

dog racing, found nowhere else along the border.<br />

Its dog track seated twenty-five hundred<br />

and raced Irish greyhounds. Tourists came from<br />

all over Texas and other states as well.<br />

Río Rico was often called “Sin City,” and<br />

this reputation was embellished by reports of<br />

visits by Chicago gangster Al “Scarface”<br />

Capone between 1929 and 1931. Though the<br />

connection with Capone is disputed by some,<br />

local newspapers of the day reported a<br />

Chicago syndicate backed by Capone built the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Rico Kennel Club in 1928 for $40,000.<br />

When prohibition ended in 1933, traffic<br />

dropped and so did the prosperity of <strong>Rio</strong> Rico.<br />

In October 1941, heavy rains caused great<br />

flooding. As the river continued to surge<br />

toward the Gulf, the <strong>Rio</strong> Rico bridge began to<br />

weaken, its center dropped into the channel,<br />

and soon its foundation was swept away.<br />

Ferry service was maintained for several<br />

years, and then a surplus army pontoon<br />

bridge was utilized for a time before a new<br />

bridge was built upstream at Progreso.<br />

The B&P Bridge Company still held a<br />

bridge permit, and business leaders believed<br />

that a new bridge would increase tourism.<br />

Weslaco and Mercedes citizens bought<br />

$450,000 in common stock to finance the<br />

project, and Progreso International Bridge was<br />

built in 1952. Though there was no town on<br />

the Mexican side, it didn’t take long for Nuevo<br />

Progreso to grow around the bridge and to<br />

become a favorite destination for both <strong>Valley</strong><br />

residents and Winter Texans. Many walk<br />

across the bridge to the restaurants and shops<br />

that line the streets in what has grown to be a<br />

sizeable town.<br />

Plans and engineering work are completed<br />

for a $5.5-million expansion of the privately<br />

owned bridge to six lanes, with construction<br />

to begin as soon as final approval is received<br />

from all of the governing bodies. Though<br />

no presidential permit is needed for a<br />

replacement bridge, it still has a long approval<br />

process, so no starting date had been set.<br />

The Pharr-Reynosa International Bridge<br />

has the longest border crossing in the world at<br />

3.2 miles. Owned by the City of Pharr, it is<br />

one of the new bridges being built to meet the<br />

demands of increased border traffic.<br />

Completed in January 1995, it is used for<br />

both commercial and consumer traffic and<br />

provides a direct link from the Pharr<br />

Industrial Park to Reynosa’s maquiladora<br />

plants. It also links directly with the<br />

Autopista, which is the fastest route to<br />

Monterrey and the interior. The bridge<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

170


elieves the McAllen-Hidalgo-Reynosa Bridge<br />

of some of the congestion caused by the heavy<br />

truck traffic that it carried prior to the opening<br />

of the Pharr bridge.<br />

Before there was a bridge between Reynosa<br />

and the United States, ferries plied the river<br />

between Reynosa and Hidalgo. In 1910<br />

Crisoforo Vela acquired the ferry and rowboat<br />

service and, with two of his sons, operated the<br />

river crossing until the first bridge was built by<br />

Joe E. Pate and Associates in 1926. The bridge<br />

was damaged by floods in 1933. Although<br />

rebuilt and strengthened, it fell into the river and<br />

was destroyed in 1939 after cable anchors on<br />

the U.S. side failed to hold. A second suspension<br />

bridge was erected the following year and was<br />

purchased by the city of McAllen in 1960. A<br />

four-lane prestressed concrete bridge was<br />

opened on June 1, 1967 and the suspension<br />

bridge was later removed for salvage.<br />

Construction of an additional four-lane bridge<br />

was completed in 1988. The McAllen-Hidalgo-<br />

Reynosa International Bridge is operated jointly<br />

by McAllen, Hidalgo and Mexican interests to<br />

expedite transportation and foster international<br />

cooperation and friendship.<br />

Though other bridges are under<br />

development, the only present crossing<br />

between the McAllen-Hidalgo-Reynosa Bridge<br />

and <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City/Camargo is the historic<br />

Los Ebanos Ferry. The last hand-drawn ferry<br />

on a U.S. border, it still operates daily, a<br />

reminder of the early days on the Texas-<br />

Mexico border. According to legend, the<br />

crossing was part of the “Salt Trail” from El Sal<br />

del Rey used by Indians and Spanish settlers.<br />

General Zachary Taylor’s forces crossed the<br />

river here during the Mexican War, and so did<br />

cattle rustlers and Texas Rangers during the<br />

cattle smuggling days. During prohibition<br />

days, the crossing was a convenient means for<br />

transporting illegal liquor.<br />

A hair-pin turn in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> marks the<br />

location of the famous crossing. The privately<br />

owned ferry travels the 200-foot width of the<br />

river, safely delivering cars and pickups three at<br />

a time between the U.S. town of Los Ebanos<br />

and the Mexican town of Diaz Ordaz. The ferry<br />

is propelled by the hands of two or more<br />

ferryman on duty seven days a week during<br />

crossing hours. It also carries pedestrians and<br />

tourists who go along for the ride across the<br />

international stream. The trip takes an average<br />

four minutes, but sometimes there are long<br />

lines to cross the river.<br />

An application has been made for a new<br />

international bridge near the ferry crossing<br />

and private funding is available, though nostalgic<br />

citizens say no price can be set on the<br />

historical and sentimental value of the ferry.<br />

The Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission<br />

recognized the ferry with a historical marker<br />

in June 1974, and the ebony tree to which the<br />

ferry is tied is listed as one of the “famous<br />

trees” of Texas.<br />

Starr-Camargo International Bridge, one<br />

of only two privately owned bridges along<br />

the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, is owned and operated<br />

by the Starr-Camargo Bridge Company.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Los Ebanos Ferry is the only<br />

government licensed hand-pulled ferry on<br />

any boundary of the U.S. On the Mexican<br />

side a paved road leads to the town of<br />

Díaz Ordaz. The ferry is a favorite site<br />

for tourists.<br />

Below: Events dating back to the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

earliest recorded history are connected with<br />

this historic crossing, though the privately<br />

owned ferry has only operated since 1950.<br />

This Texas State <strong>Historic</strong>al Marker dedicated<br />

in 1974 marks the ancient ford and tells its<br />

history. It was unveiled by Felix T. Martinez,<br />

then a Hidalgo County commissioner.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

171


✧<br />

Above: The present Roma-Ciudad Miguel<br />

Alemán Bridge, completed in 1979,<br />

spans the river adjacent to the 1929<br />

steel suspension bridge, which<br />

preservation groups plan to make a<br />

pedestrian only crossing.<br />

Below: The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City-Camargo<br />

Bridge has undergone a recent expansion,<br />

with new export, customs, and related<br />

facilities to expedite traffic and trade.<br />

The bridge underwent a major expansion<br />

recently, and a wide range of customs, export,<br />

and support facilities neared completion in the<br />

bridge area in 2000.<br />

Long before it had a bridge, Roma was a busy<br />

crossing by boat and ferry, especially during the<br />

last half of the nineteenth century, when it was<br />

the head of navigation for the steamboats plying<br />

the river. Large mercantile houses were located<br />

along the river, and goods from the steamboats<br />

were unloaded at the docks and transported by<br />

ferry to Mexico. The seven-hundred-foot long<br />

Roma-Ciudad Miguel Alemán steel suspension<br />

bridge was constructed during America’s heyday<br />

of suspension bridges in the late 1920s. It<br />

is the sole suspension bridge remaining of<br />

five built across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. It spans the<br />

river adjacent to its modern counterpart<br />

completed in December 1979. Restoration plans<br />

call for stabilizing the bridge so visitors may take<br />

a stroll across history on this pedestrian only<br />

border crossing.<br />

The final crossing is not really a bridge,<br />

but a five-mile-long highway that tops<br />

International Falcon Dam, completed in 1953.<br />

The toll-free crossing is controlled by U.S. and<br />

Mexican officials on their respective sides.<br />

Crossing into Mexico, the water in huge Falcon<br />

Lake stretches as far as the eye can see to the<br />

right while on the left the controlled river<br />

trickles down the rolling green hills and valleys<br />

in a narrow stream. As the highway reaches<br />

into Mexico, it enters Nuevo Guerrero, the<br />

modern town built in 1953 for the twenty-five<br />

hundred residents of Guerrero Viejo, which<br />

was inundated by Falcon. The Falcon Dam<br />

crossing intersects with Mexico’s Highway 2<br />

that connects its historic border towns and<br />

leads to highways into the Mexican interior.<br />

Requirements to build a new bridge are<br />

stringent and time-consuming. Presidential<br />

permits are required from both governments,<br />

plus environmental studies and approval by<br />

many agencies. Though it may take up to<br />

fifteen years to get approval for a new span,<br />

there are hundreds of bridge proposals by<br />

cities, counties and private businesses all<br />

along the border from El Paso to Brownsville.<br />

While only about one in ten gets final<br />

approval, bridge proponents feel they are<br />

worth the long process.<br />

Work is ongoing by the Port of Brownsville<br />

for a bridge to the eastern industrial section<br />

of Matamoros, by the City of Donna to<br />

Río Bravo, and for the Anzalduas Bridge west<br />

of Mission, a joint project of the cities<br />

of McAllen, Mission, and Hidalgo. The<br />

Anzalduas Bridge has been under development<br />

for about ten years and is projecting a<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

172


2003 completion date. It will connect new<br />

residential, commercial, and industrial<br />

developments on both sides of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

The future of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, like its<br />

past, is bound to the river, linking families,<br />

friendships, and economies. With peace and<br />

goodwill now firmly established, its bridges<br />

connect its past and present while defining its<br />

vision of the future.<br />

TRANSPORTATION BY<br />

LAND, SEA & AIR<br />

When the railroad connected the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

with the rest of the world in 1904, only trails<br />

and dirt roads existed for travel within the<br />

region. The Military Highway established by<br />

General Zachary Taylor evolved into U.S. 281<br />

and was the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first highway. The<br />

counties were responsible for their roads, but<br />

limited funds were available The passage of<br />

the Federal Road Act in 1916 pushed the<br />

legislature to form a Highway Department,<br />

which could use federal and matching state<br />

money for Texas roads. This relieved the<br />

counties of much of the burden of road<br />

construction. Between 1924 and 1926, U.S.<br />

83 was built close to the railroad tracks to<br />

serve the new communities and businesses,<br />

using state, county and federal funds.<br />

In 1932 the Highway Department created<br />

District 21 from Corpus Christi’s District 16<br />

to serve the state’s ten southernmost counties<br />

from its headquarters at Pharr. Its principal<br />

objective was to plan and construct a public<br />

road network adequate to serve the needs of<br />

the area in conjunction with county and city<br />

officials. Soon work began on a master<br />

highway plan for the four <strong>Valley</strong> counties,<br />

which became the <strong>Valley</strong> expressway system.<br />

In the March 15, 1948 issue of the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Morning Star, Dewitt C. Greer, state highway<br />

engineer, is quoted as saying his office “may soon<br />

be ready to ‘talk turkey’ with commissioners<br />

courts in Cameron and Hidalgo Counties.”<br />

He said the road would be used primarily for<br />

through traffic, and “it would have to run near<br />

the old road, a three-lane highway that serves as<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s ‘Main Street.’ It would have to stay<br />

close to the railroad tracks, the industries of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, and it would have to run the entire length<br />

of the <strong>Valley</strong>.” Thus the Expressway 83 system<br />

was launched with construction spread over the<br />

next three decades.<br />

Meanwhile, U.S. 281 was extended south<br />

from Pharr to the bridge at Hidalgo and north to<br />

San Antonio and beyond. U.S. 77 finally made<br />

its way through the King Ranch to Raymondville<br />

in 1940, joining U.S. 83 at Harlingen.<br />

District 21 of the Texas Department of<br />

Transportation now provides the <strong>Valley</strong> with an<br />

extensive network of U.S. highways and state<br />

farm to market roads. Many highway projects<br />

are currently under construction or planned<br />

for the near future to upgrade the highways<br />

into and out of the <strong>Valley</strong>. A major effort is<br />

being made to upgrade the three major<br />

highways to interstate standards and to include<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in the proposed I-69<br />

international highway from Mexico to Canada.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Mule-drawn wagons dump caliche in<br />

the early days of road-building near<br />

Edinburg around 1910-20.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Above: Trucks entered the road-building<br />

picture around 1911, shown here in the<br />

San Benito area.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

173


✧<br />

Right: The Co-founders of <strong>Valley</strong> Transit<br />

Company in 1941 were J. Cullen Looney,<br />

Rogers Kelley, and Vance D. Raimond. The<br />

company started in Edinburg, where Looney<br />

was a well-known attorney for over forty<br />

years, a Hidalgo County judge from 1940 to<br />

1946, a banker, and humanitarian. Kelley<br />

established the law firm of Kelley, Looney,<br />

Alexander, and Sawyer in 1926, and was a<br />

Texas state senator representing South Texas<br />

for many years. Raimond had an investment<br />

firm in Edinburg when the three organized<br />

the transit venture. He became the managing<br />

partner with Harlingen as its headquarters.<br />

The co-founders are shown in 1951 on the<br />

tenth anniversary of <strong>Valley</strong> Transit Company.<br />

COURTESY OF ROBERT FARRIS.<br />

Below: When proposed I-69 routes to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> were included in national<br />

highway system planning in 1997, “Future<br />

Interstate 69” signs were introduced during<br />

activities to honor U.S. Representative Bud<br />

Shuster of Pennsylvania, House<br />

Transportation Chairman, at right, and<br />

longtime U.S. Representative Kika de la<br />

Garza. Shown with them are Ricardo<br />

Gutierrez of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, at left, and Bill<br />

Summers, <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership president/CEO<br />

since 1987.<br />

This extensive highway network serves<br />

hundreds of thousands of people who drive<br />

their cars and other vehicles within the area,<br />

as well as the huge trucks that carry produce<br />

to nationwide markets and freight in and out<br />

of the <strong>Valley</strong> and Mexico.<br />

It also provides the routes for buses that<br />

operate within the <strong>Valley</strong> and to points<br />

outside the area. <strong>Valley</strong> Transit Company, Inc.,<br />

began operation in 1941 with one bus and a<br />

four-mile route from the Harlingen military<br />

base to downtown. In September 1951, when<br />

it celebrated its tenth birthday, <strong>Valley</strong> Transit<br />

had expanded service to the entire <strong>Valley</strong> over<br />

its 209-mile route, carrying over 250,000<br />

passengers per month. Today the company<br />

continues to be a vital transportation link in<br />

conjunction with Greyhound Bus Lines. Its 88<br />

modern buses serve 77 cities in Texas from<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> to Houston, Austin, San Antonio,<br />

and Laredo and back to the border, plus<br />

providing regular service to Reynosa, Mexico.<br />

THE VALLEY’ S FOUR PORTS<br />

Water transportation is also of major<br />

importance to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. The area<br />

is served by four ports, all linked to the<br />

Intracoastal Waterway System, which connects<br />

at the Mississippi River with the country’s<br />

vast heartland.<br />

Port Isabel, originally a natural port<br />

through Brazos Santiago Pass, was used during<br />

both the Mexican and Civil Wars. After the<br />

narrow-gauge <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad was built<br />

from the port to Brownsville in 1873, produce<br />

and manufactured goods were brought in by<br />

ship, then transferred to freight wagons and<br />

moved overland to Brownsville for markets in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> and Mexico. This kept commerce<br />

flowing until the St. Louis, Brownsville, and<br />

Mexico Railroad connected the <strong>Valley</strong> to the<br />

rest of the nation in 1904, at which time<br />

business slowed to a trickle at Brazos Santiago.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

174


Interest in water transportation was revived<br />

in the 1920s, and in 1928 the Port Isabel-San<br />

Benito Navigation District was organized to<br />

develop the present Port Isabel. A bond issue<br />

was approved, and the federal government<br />

dredged the channel and built jetties. The port<br />

was opened by Governor James V. Allred in<br />

June 1935. With a channel depth of thirty-six<br />

feet, it handles both ocean-going vessels,<br />

cruise ships, and barge traffic and is home to a<br />

growing number of businesses.<br />

The Port Isabel-Brownsville shrimp fleet is<br />

the largest in Texas, and the shrimping<br />

industry has traditionally been a major<br />

contributor to the coastal economy.<br />

Port Brownsville, the famous deepwater<br />

port carved out of the prairie, opened with<br />

great fanfare on May 16, 1936. Ships from over<br />

the world move in and out of the seventeenmile-long<br />

ship channel with goods to and from<br />

South Texas and Northern Mexico. The port<br />

has a depth of forty-two feet and is the<br />

southern terminus of the Gulf Intracoastal<br />

Waterway System. More than 250 businesses<br />

are located along its channel, and with<br />

ownership of 46,000 acres of land, the port can<br />

accommodate substantial growth and<br />

expansion. It also is the home port for a large<br />

portion of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s shrimp fleet.<br />

Brownsville’s international port offers five<br />

modes of transportation—truck, ship, barge,<br />

rail, and air—and is the closest port to<br />

Mexico’s industrial center of Monterrey. Its<br />

large Foreign Trade Zone, with space at both<br />

the port and the city’s airport, is widely used<br />

by the maquiladora industry.<br />

Harlingen citizens first tried to secure<br />

a port in the 1920s, but their efforts met<br />

with disappointment. In 1942 the federal<br />

government included funds for dredging a<br />

channel to Harlingen in its appropriation for<br />

extending the Intracoastal Waterway from<br />

Corpus Christi to Brownsville. The channel<br />

from the Laguna Madre extends twentytwo<br />

miles through the Arroyo Colorado<br />

to Port Harlingen, five miles east of the<br />

city. The barge port was opened in February<br />

1952. Its principal imports are petroleum<br />

products, steel products and chemicals,<br />

while the principal exports are raw sugar and<br />

crude petroleum.<br />

Port Mansfield is a barge port located<br />

twenty-seven miles east of Raymondville on<br />

the harbor once known as Red Fish Bay<br />

Landing. Named for the late Congressman J. J.<br />

Mansfield of Columbus, it was dedicated in<br />

April 1950. A land cut across Padre Island<br />

provides access to and from the Gulf, and a<br />

12-foot-deep dredged channel through the<br />

jetties leads across Laguna Madre to a turning<br />

basin and small craft basin at Port Mansfield.<br />

Operated by the Willacy County Navigation<br />

District, its principal activities are commercial<br />

and sports fishing, plus oil and gas supply.<br />

In 1967, during dredging of the cut, three<br />

Spanish shipwrecks from 1554 were<br />

discovered. Artifacts from the wrecks can be<br />

viewed at the Treasures of the Gulf Museum in<br />

Port Isabel.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Port Isabel-Brownsville shrimp<br />

fleet is the largest in Texas and the<br />

shrimping industry is an important factor in<br />

the coastal economy.<br />

Below: The <strong>Valley</strong>’s four ports are connected<br />

to the Gulf Intracoastal Canal System,<br />

hence to all of the ports on the Gulf Coast,<br />

the Mississippi River, and Florida.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

175


AIR<br />

TRANSPORTATION<br />

✧<br />

Above: Brownsville Mayor A. B. Cole is<br />

shown with pilot Charles Lindbergh, who<br />

landed in Brownsville on March 9, 1929,<br />

with a bag of mail from Mexico City to<br />

participate in the opening ceremonies for the<br />

new Brownsville airport.<br />

COURTESY OF CARL S. CHILTON, JR.<br />

Below: Brownsville-South Padre Island<br />

International Airport was undergoing a<br />

major expansion and renovation in 2000.<br />

Brownsville was the first <strong>Valley</strong> city to have<br />

a commercial airport with regular airline<br />

service. The Brownsville Municipal Airport<br />

opened on March 9-10, 1929, with famed<br />

aviator Charles Lindbergh and aviatrix Amelia<br />

Earhart among the dignitaries present. The<br />

gala two-day celebration inaugurated the first<br />

Mexico City-New York airmail route and<br />

launched Pan American World Airways<br />

passenger service.<br />

The high moment of the event was the<br />

arrival of Charles Lindbergh from Mexico City<br />

with the first load of airmail after a flight of<br />

five hours and 38 minutes. An estimated<br />

twenty thousand people were at the airport to<br />

greet Lindbergh’s plane. The mail was immediately<br />

transferred to another plane, which<br />

carried it to San Antonio, Dallas, Chicago, and<br />

on to New York. The following day Lindbergh<br />

flew the first southbound load of airmail to<br />

Mexico City, accompanied by various U.S.<br />

and Mexican officials and newspaper people.<br />

For many years, Pan American Airways<br />

had a base at the Brownsville airport for<br />

overhauling their own engines, plus engines<br />

for the Air Force under contract. Engines were<br />

transported to Brownsville from Air Force<br />

installations all over the world to make the<br />

firm the <strong>Valley</strong>’s largest private employer in<br />

the mid-1950s. Then Pan American’s great<br />

planes began to fly over Brownsville in direct,<br />

nonstop flights between Houston and Mexico<br />

City, no longer stopping at the border. To<br />

continue operation, the well-equipped PAA<br />

base performed unique jobs, such as<br />

converting military C-47s into the civilian<br />

DC-3s, and renovating surplus C-47s for<br />

Liberia to establish a new airline. By 1959 the<br />

many changes in the aircraft industry made<br />

the base obsolete, and the thirty-year<br />

relationship between Brownsville and Pan<br />

American Airways came to an end.<br />

The present Brownsville-South Padre<br />

Island International Airport passenger<br />

terminal was dedicated in March 1972. The<br />

decades that followed saw many changes that<br />

led to a decrease in airline passenger service,<br />

and for a time in the 1980s passenger service<br />

was discontinued altogether. The summer of<br />

1999 saw the beginning of a $4.3-million<br />

project to expand the terminal and upgrade<br />

airport facilities, with construction continuing<br />

through 2000. Currently, in addition to its<br />

Continental Airlines passenger service, the<br />

Brownsville airport is the stopover for many<br />

private planes going to and coming from<br />

Mexico. Its air cargo terminal serves planes<br />

that carry freight and express shipments to<br />

and from the maquiladora plants of<br />

Matamoros. The delivery trucks, cargo<br />

aircraft, and many employee automobiles are<br />

visible evidence of a busy center of commerce.<br />

The Brownsville airport is also home to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Wing of the Confederate Air Force World<br />

War II Museum, which has many planes of the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

176


World War II era on display, plus military<br />

uniforms, photographs, and other memorabilia<br />

relating to aviation. The wing conducts an<br />

annual air show, usually in early March.<br />

Harlingen’s first airport sprang from the<br />

Harlingen Air Force Base. After its first closure,<br />

the air base was used as a civilian airport called<br />

the All-<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Airport from 1947 to<br />

1952. When the base was reactivated in 1952,<br />

airlines continued to fly passengers in and out<br />

of Harlingen from the military airstrip. The city<br />

established Harvey Richards Air Field west of<br />

the city for civilian operations. After the city<br />

purchased the closed air base in 1966, Harvey<br />

Richards Field was phased out and all<br />

operations moved to the base. The present<br />

Harlingen Country Club’s golf course and Palm<br />

View subdivision now occupy the site of the<br />

former municipal airport.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong> International Airport at the former<br />

air base was transformed by a major<br />

expansion completed in 1991. The area’s<br />

busiest, it is presently served by four major<br />

airlines—American, Continental, Sun<br />

Country and Southwest, which celebrated its<br />

twenty-fifth year of having air carrier service<br />

to the <strong>Valley</strong> in February 2000. It also is home<br />

to many travel related businesses and general<br />

aviation operations.<br />

McAllen-Miller International Airport began<br />

in 1930 when Sam Miller donated 109 acres to<br />

the city to build an airport. It was grassland<br />

used by privately owned planes until 1948,<br />

when the first runway was constructed, then<br />

lengthened in 1952 for the coming of the first<br />

commercial airline to McAllen—Trans-Texas<br />

Airways, later named Texas International<br />

Airlines. The airport was designated an<br />

International Airport in 1956 so that planes<br />

coming from outside the United States, mainly<br />

from Mexico, could clear customs at the<br />

McAllen facility.<br />

At first an old barracks was utilized for the<br />

terminal. A second terminal was built in July<br />

1961, another was constructed in 1967, and<br />

the current modern terminal was completed<br />

in 1993. The airport is currently served by<br />

American and Continental Airlines. Many private<br />

planes utilize the services of the airport’s<br />

longtime fixed base operator, McCreery<br />

Aviation Company, Inc., for both domestic<br />

and international travel.<br />

Boardings at the three commercial airports<br />

increased from 123,000 in 1974 to a 863,844<br />

in 2000.<br />

In addition to the three international airports,<br />

other municipal airports offer general aviation<br />

services. Weslaco’s Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Municipal Airport<br />

and the Edinburg International Airport have<br />

facilities to serve airfreight planes, business<br />

corporate aircraft and private planes. Several<br />

landing strips throughout the <strong>Valley</strong> are used for<br />

general aviation and agricultural crop dusting<br />

services. The Texas Air Museum airstrip near <strong>Rio</strong><br />

Hondo is used for fly-ins for planes coming to<br />

the Air Museum to see its collection of historic<br />

planes and the U.S.S. Iwo Jima.<br />

✧<br />

Above: <strong>Valley</strong> International Airport at<br />

Harlingen is the area’s busiest. It evolved<br />

from the military airstrip established at the<br />

former Harlingen Air Force Base.<br />

Below: The <strong>Valley</strong> Wing of the Confederate<br />

Air Force World War II Museum is located<br />

at the Brownsville airport.<br />

COURTESY OF DOUG BRUNDIGE.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

177


A NETWORK OF UTILITIES<br />

✧<br />

Telecommunications services have changed<br />

greatly since this switchboard, on display at<br />

the Weslaco Bicultural Museum, offered the<br />

latest in telephone service. This exchange<br />

was used until 1929 in the Weslaco<br />

telephone office, where a local and long<br />

distance system had been completed as<br />

early as 1920 and was considered one of the<br />

best. The “operator” is wearing a Gibson<br />

Girl shirtwaist and skirt, popular with<br />

working girls in the 1920s.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s first communication line to the<br />

outside world was a Western Union telegraphic<br />

connection that linked Brownsville to<br />

Corpus Christi in May 1875. Soon, other local<br />

lines were constructed. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Railroad built one line from Brownsville to<br />

Port Isabel and another along the river from<br />

Brownsville to Brazos de Santiago. Between<br />

1875 and 1877, the United States Army<br />

Telegraph Division built government-owned<br />

lines between its forts, including one between<br />

Fort Ringgold and Fort Brown.<br />

One of first known telephone lines was<br />

built in 1902 by John Closner from his home<br />

in Hidalgo to his San Juan Plantation, later<br />

extended to the West McAllen depot and then<br />

developed into the Hidalgo Telephone<br />

Company, with Closner as president. The first<br />

telephone exchange was built in Brownsville<br />

in 1904 with seventy-five subscribers and an<br />

office over Cisneros Drugstore at Eleventh<br />

and Washington. In 1910 it was sold to<br />

Southwestern Bell Telephone Company.<br />

Other private exchanges were established<br />

to meet communication needs in each of<br />

the growing communities. By 1937 all of these<br />

exchanges had been purchased by<br />

Southwestern Bell, which serves the larger<br />

portion of the <strong>Valley</strong>, or General Telephone<br />

Company, now part of Verizon, with<br />

exchanges in Weslaco, La Feria, Raymondville,<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City and Roma. Both provide<br />

a full range of modern communications<br />

services. The <strong>Valley</strong> Telephone Cooperative<br />

was established in 1952 to serve several<br />

communities in Willacy County. Telephone<br />

connections in the four-county area numbered<br />

400,476 in early 2000.<br />

Before the <strong>Valley</strong> could develop any industries,<br />

an adequate supply of electricity, safe<br />

drinking water and ice had to be developed,<br />

and these were slow in coming.<br />

It’s so easy now to just push a button or<br />

turn a switch that it is hard to imagine a world<br />

without electrical power. Turn back the<br />

calendar to 1900 in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The early land development companies built<br />

some of the first plants. In 1908 the American<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Land and Irrigation Company<br />

built the Mercedes Electric Light Company to<br />

serve the new town and the company’s pumps<br />

on the river. The San Benito Land and Water<br />

Company’s first canal was completed in 1908,<br />

bringing water to the city, and in 1910 the<br />

company built an electric plant designed to<br />

furnish lights for the town.<br />

Many of the towns established their own<br />

water and electric systems, often financed by<br />

local individuals. In some instances, electricity<br />

was provided by a diesel engine and small<br />

generator. As demand grew, it was difficult and<br />

expensive to maintain the small systems, and<br />

service was often undependable.<br />

Central Power and Light Company was<br />

organized in 1916 and began to purchase<br />

these small plants in the 1920s. Its original<br />

generating system was located at San Benito<br />

on the site of the old sugar mill, which the<br />

company bought in 1923. By 1941 the<br />

number of power plants had been reduced<br />

from ninety to eight. Changes continued over<br />

the years in company structure and generating<br />

facilities, with CPL still the main supplier of<br />

electrical service for South Texas. It is now a<br />

part of American Electric Power of Ohio with<br />

regional headquarters in Corpus Christi and<br />

Southern District offices in McAllen.<br />

Brownsville’s electricity and water services<br />

are municipally owned and are operated by<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

178


the Public Utilities Board of Brownsville.<br />

Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative, which<br />

extended electrical service to the rural areas in<br />

1939, serves its rural and suburban customers<br />

from its Mercedes headquarters. Two new<br />

generating plants have been built at Edinburg<br />

to provide additional power for South Texas<br />

and Northern Mexico. Electrical connections<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong> region totaled 341,393 as the<br />

new century began.<br />

Artificial ice was first manufactured at Fort<br />

Brown in 1900 for the exclusive use of troops.<br />

Soon a small plant in Port Isabel was erected<br />

for the fishing industry, and Brownsville’s first<br />

commercial ice plant with a capacity of four<br />

tons per day was built in 1903. In 1905 a<br />

twenty-ton plant was completed in<br />

Brownsville. It opened on St. Patrick’s Day, and<br />

free ice was given to all comers, a custom<br />

continued for several years. In a few years,<br />

most towns had ice plants that were of great<br />

importance to citizens and in the shipment of<br />

produce. Cities soon developed their own<br />

water systems, which have improved and<br />

expanded through the years to meet the needs<br />

of the growing population.<br />

By the late 1920s, the <strong>Valley</strong> was rapidly<br />

emerging from its pioneering stage and its<br />

citizens began to look for more of the<br />

conveniences of living, such as natural gas. At<br />

that time, the nearest supply was in Jim Hogg<br />

County, about eighty miles northwest of Mission.<br />

To provide this service, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Gas Company was organized in 1926. Franchises<br />

were obtained from towns and industrial sales<br />

contracts made with power plants and others,<br />

and the $5-million construction cost financed<br />

through common stock and the issuance of<br />

bonds. The first town to receive gas was McAllen<br />

on August 1, 1927, and by the end of the year<br />

twelve hundred customers were being served.<br />

The pipeline was continued until all <strong>Valley</strong> towns<br />

had access to natural gas.<br />

At that time, nobody dreamed that the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> was sitting on top of trillions of cubic<br />

feet of natural gas that later would provide a<br />

major economic boon. The former <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Gas Company is now part of Southern<br />

Union Gas Company, which provides natural<br />

gas to <strong>Valley</strong> users through its extensive<br />

network of distribution lines in the region.<br />

Since 1936, local gas from <strong>Valley</strong> fields has<br />

been utilized. Natural gas connections in 2000<br />

totaled 77,531.<br />

WINDS OF CHANGE<br />

With its infrastructure in place and the<br />

vegetable and citrus industry developing at a<br />

rapid rate, the 1920s were a time of prosperity<br />

for the region. Then came the Wall Street<br />

tumble of 1929, and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

felt the shock along with the rest of the country.<br />

People were struggling to hold on to their<br />

land and make ends meet when another blow<br />

struck. The great 1933 Hurricane blew in via<br />

the Caribbean on September 4, 1933. At that<br />

time hurricanes did not have names, so they<br />

are remembered by their year. The center<br />

passed just north of Brownsville, where the<br />

wind measured 106 mph before the<br />

anemometer blew away. Peak wind gusts were<br />

estimated at 120 to 125 mph, and damages<br />

were estimated at $17 million.<br />

The children of Paul and Beatrice Allen of<br />

Weslaco remember Paul’s tales of the hurricane<br />

when he was a seven-year-old boy. William and<br />

Gertrude Allen and their children were living<br />

close to Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Lake when the hurricane<br />

blew the roof off part of their house. William<br />

put Gertrude, Paul, and his brother Willis in a<br />

large standpipe for protection while he and his<br />

father stayed in what was left of the house.<br />

There are many such tales about the 1933<br />

Hurricane, which came without warning since<br />

no adequate weather forecasts were available.<br />

✧<br />

Electric transmission lines move electricity<br />

from generating plants to area consumers.<br />

Additional generating capacity has been<br />

added in recent years to meet the electrical<br />

power needs of the fast-growing region.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

179


About ninety percent of the year’s citrus crop<br />

was lost due to heavy winds and water, and<br />

many buildings were blown away or severely<br />

damaged. The future looked bleak, but somehow<br />

the area recovered, as it has so many<br />

times since.<br />

THE OIL & GAS BOOM<br />

✧<br />

Oil and gas activity has continued at a<br />

steady pace since the initial flurry of<br />

activity and is an important part of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> economy.<br />

While the area was recovering from the<br />

hurricane, a positive event made the headlines.<br />

On September 19, 1934, a gusher<br />

roared in at the oil well being drilled west of<br />

Mission at Cuevitas by Otto Woods, who was<br />

working with a borrowed rig and a brokendown<br />

boiler. Witnesses claimed that a column<br />

of oil shot over one hundred feet into the air<br />

before drillers could shut off the valve. At first<br />

the oil formed a lake around the well. Within<br />

a few days the area around the well had to be<br />

fenced in and policed to protect the crowds of<br />

sightseers. Later, production peaked at 4,800<br />

barrels a day. Though oil had been discovered<br />

in Starr County in the 1920s, neither oil nor<br />

gas had yet been found in Hidalgo County.<br />

As news of this discovery spread, oil scouts<br />

flocked to the area, some from major oil companies.<br />

All hotel rooms were soon filled and<br />

business boomed. Telephone and telegraph<br />

companies buzzed as oil men engaged in<br />

feverish leasing and royalty buying and selling<br />

throughout the <strong>Valley</strong>. However, most drillers<br />

found gas and not the valuable oil so desired.<br />

The vast natural gas reserves were regarded as<br />

worthless. Later, the value of natural gas<br />

increased and it was discovered that as much<br />

as twelve trillion cubic feet of gas lay under<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s surface, with the McAllen gas<br />

dome alone containing over a trillion cubic<br />

feet. Soon, pipelines extending thousands of<br />

miles were built to send natural gas from the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> to cities in the northeast.<br />

Over the years oil and gas have added<br />

much to the economy of the area. Though the<br />

energy sector employs less than one percent<br />

of the workforce, it is a critical part of the<br />

local economy. Hidalgo County is the state’s<br />

third largest producer of natural gas, and<br />

drilling for new wells continued in 2000. The<br />

exploration and production of natural gas<br />

make up a big chunk of the tax base for cities<br />

and school districts, especially in Edinburg<br />

and La Joya.<br />

Though production continues in the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

the field that produced Otto Woods’ gusher is<br />

no longer active, and the only sign that<br />

remains of that exciting day is a historical<br />

marker that reads: “First Oil Well in Hidalgo<br />

County” located west of La Joya on U.S. 83.<br />

WORLD WAR II & BEYOND<br />

The country was pulling out of the Great<br />

Depression as the 1940s began, but the specter<br />

of World War II was on the horizon. For the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, wartime was boom time<br />

because of the great demand for agricultural<br />

products from the “Winter Vegetable Capital of<br />

the World.” Up to that time, a large workforce<br />

had been available to the farmers as there were<br />

few jobs outside of agriculture and willing<br />

hands were available from across the border,<br />

though not always in the U.S. legally. However,<br />

the war took away many young people who<br />

would have worked the land.<br />

To avoid a labor crisis, the Mexican Farm<br />

Labor Supply Program, or “Bracero Program,”<br />

was worked out with Mexico to allow nationals<br />

to cross the border to work seasonally. This<br />

lasted from August 1942 to December 1947,<br />

during which 250,000 Mexican nationals<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

180


worked in agriculture and railroad. The program<br />

was also utilized from 1948 to 1964. Farm<br />

mechanization, including the mechanical cotton<br />

picker, reduced the number of workers needed.<br />

The war brought a great change in the<br />

population of the <strong>Valley</strong>. In 1940 there were<br />

about 215,800 people in the area. By 1950<br />

the number had grown to 320,500. As the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> turned from its emphasis on war to<br />

peace, there were new businesses and more<br />

diverse jobs for people, but there were not<br />

enough jobs to go around.<br />

A cold wind blew into the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in late January 1951 and stayed for five<br />

days. The temperature fell to twenty-two<br />

degrees and icicles covered the 120,000 acres<br />

of orange and grapefruit trees. Describing that<br />

tense time, a former citrus farmer said: “You<br />

could stand in the orchards and hear the bark<br />

splitting. It was like rifle shots.” When the ice<br />

melted, the crop was ruined and seventy-five<br />

percent of the trees wiped out. The harvest<br />

dropped from 28.4 million boxes in 1948-49<br />

to 500,000 boxes in 1951-52.<br />

The devastation in the orchards had a ripple<br />

effect through the <strong>Valley</strong>, plunging many farm<br />

workers, processing, and shipping personnel<br />

into unemployment. Citrus stalwarts bulldozed<br />

their dead trees, replanted, and waited for the<br />

new trees to bring in citrus gold.<br />

MANUFACTURING HELPS TO<br />

DIVERSIFY ECONOMY<br />

The economy, which had relied almost<br />

solely on agriculture and related industries,<br />

needed to be diversified to lessen the blows<br />

from such natural disasters and provide additional<br />

opportunities for its growing population.<br />

Area leaders began serious efforts to<br />

attract manufacturers to the area, offering<br />

good climate, inexpensive land, good transportation,<br />

and a pool of available and willing<br />

labor. Progress did not come easily, but gradually<br />

it did come.<br />

Petroleum-based industries were explored.<br />

The largest of these started as the $20-million<br />

Carthage Hydrocol plant at the Port of<br />

Brownsville. Originally slated for Carthage,<br />

Texas, the company liked the idea of locating<br />

the plant at a site with ocean shipping. The<br />

announcement of the plant was hailed at the<br />

time as one of the greatest economic achievements<br />

in the history of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Construction started in 1947, with as many as<br />

1,000 persons employed. Operations began in<br />

1950, with 325 to 350 operating personnel.<br />

The plant initiated the commercial<br />

production of gasoline, diesel oil, industrial<br />

alcohol, and commercial oxygen from natural<br />

gas, which was supplied through a sixtythree-mile<br />

pipeline from fields up the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Stanolind Oil and Gas Company, in an<br />

adjacent plant, began processing the organic<br />

chemicals produced. U.S. Industrial<br />

Chemicals, another adjacent plant, packaged<br />

and shipped the processed products.<br />

The process worked well, but mechanical<br />

✧<br />

Top: Plans were announced for the mammoth<br />

Hydrocol plant at the Port of Brownsville in<br />

1947 to produce gasoline, diesel oil, industrial<br />

alcohol, and commercial oxygen from natural<br />

gas. The technology was sound, but<br />

production did not develop as anticipated.<br />

COURTESY OF W. W. MCMANUS.<br />

Above: After the Hydrocol plant closed, it<br />

was converted by Union Carbide<br />

Corporation to manufacture petrochemicals<br />

and operated from 1961 to 1982, when it<br />

closed because of world market conditions.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

181


✧<br />

The threat of flooding from the torrential<br />

rains that followed Hurricane Beulah in<br />

1967 spurred sandbagging activity along the<br />

floodways, shown here south of Mercedes.<br />

The emergency call went out and citizens<br />

rushed to help shore up the levees.<br />

and engineering problems made it impossible<br />

to get the plant into full operation. In 1953<br />

the area was stunned when it learned that<br />

the huge Carthage Hydrocol plant was<br />

suspending operations. Stanolind took over<br />

the Hydrocol and U.S. Industrial Chemicals<br />

operations, reopened the plant in 1956 as<br />

Amoco Chemicals Corporation, and people<br />

relaxed. That operation lasted until late 1957.<br />

Union Carbide Corporation acquired the<br />

facility in 1958, converting it at great expense<br />

to a butane oxidation process to manufacture<br />

acetic acid and co-products. The plant<br />

reopened in 1961 and operated profitably<br />

until 1982, when it closed due to worldwide<br />

market conditions. For many years the great<br />

plant with its complex refining machinery of<br />

tubes and pipes stood vacant and rusting, a<br />

grim reminder of the high hopes for major<br />

petrochemical industries. Finally, it was<br />

dismantled and sold for scrap.<br />

Though the big dream failed, smaller<br />

petroleum-based enterprises thrive in the port<br />

area, as do many other industries that have<br />

come to Port Brownsville, providing<br />

thousands of jobs. The largest business in<br />

2000 is Singapore-owned Amfels, Inc., which<br />

builds and repairs off-shore oil rigs and<br />

reworks seagoing vessels, along with other<br />

marine construction.<br />

TIME OUT FOR BEULAH<br />

Hurricane Beulah blew into the <strong>Valley</strong> on<br />

September 19,1967. Her winds were strong,<br />

her rains drenching, and she left her mark all<br />

along the coast. Her 136-mph winds damaged<br />

many of South Padre Island’s new hotels and<br />

other buildings along the coast and up the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, and caused severe flooding in all of the<br />

counties, including the highways in and out<br />

of the area. Many residents who had<br />

evacuated to Laredo and San Antonio were<br />

unable to return for a week or more because<br />

the highways were closed by high water.<br />

Much of the rain had fallen into the San Juan<br />

River watershed below Falcon Dam, flooding<br />

both sides of the border.<br />

When the waters receded, utilities were<br />

returned to service; highways, roads, and<br />

bridges were quickly repaired, and the word<br />

went out that the <strong>Valley</strong> “did not get blown<br />

away or washed away.” Though some<br />

individuals had severe losses, soon the area<br />

was back to normal.<br />

A DIVERSIFIED ECONOMY<br />

During the 1960s and 1970s, many cut-andsew<br />

industries discovered the <strong>Valley</strong> and its<br />

supply of dependable workers for their clothing<br />

manufacturing operations. Levis were made at<br />

McAllen, Harlingen, San Benito, and<br />

Brownsville; Haggar Manufacturing came to<br />

Edinburg, Weslaco, and Brownsville;<br />

Williamson-Dickie to McAllen and Weslaco;<br />

William Carter and Fruit of the Loom to<br />

Harlingen, among others. Some of the plants<br />

continue as major employers. Though Levi-<br />

Strauss closed some of its large plants in 1999<br />

and Haggar has moved away, these plants<br />

provided employment for thousands of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

citizens for a generation.<br />

Many other manufacturers have come and<br />

stayed to produce a great variety of products,<br />

including electronic and automotive<br />

components. The latest report from the Texas<br />

state comptroller showed that 640<br />

manufacturing plants employ 25,500 in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s four counties.<br />

Beginning in the late 1960s, attention turned<br />

to Mexico and the development of maquiladoras.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

182


Left: Maquiladoras, assembly and<br />

manufacturing plants in Mexican border<br />

cities, have grown steadily since the 1960s,<br />

providing jobs and economic growth on both<br />

sides of the border. A typical plant,<br />

Cambridge International of Matamoros,<br />

established in 1994, has two hundred<br />

employees who manufacture conveyor<br />

belts for food processing and industrial<br />

assembly lines.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE INDUSTRIAL<br />

DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION.<br />

✧<br />

The program was initiated in 1965 during the<br />

Díaz Ordaz presidency as a means of attracting<br />

foreign investment, increasing exports, and<br />

fostering indus-trialization along the U.S.-<br />

Mexico border. Today, maquiladoras are one of<br />

Mexico’s primary sources of domestic<br />

production, exports, and employment, and<br />

they continue to attract foreign investment<br />

from the U.S., Canada, Europe, and Japan.<br />

Such plants temporarily import raw materials,<br />

parts or components into Mexico for<br />

manufacturing, processing and assembly. The<br />

products are then exported out of Mexico to<br />

the country of origin or a third country. No<br />

tariffs are paid while the imported materials<br />

are in Mexico.<br />

Some of these industries have a twin plant<br />

operation, usually a highly automated or<br />

technology-oriented U.S. plant and a laborintensive<br />

sister plant on the Mexican side.<br />

Brownsville-Matamoros and McAllen-Reynosa<br />

each have well over a hundred such plants,<br />

and there are dozens in the smaller border<br />

cities. Around 160,000 jobs have been created<br />

along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> border on the<br />

Mexican side and thousands of jobs in service,<br />

retail, supply and other fields have been<br />

generated for U.S. workers. Many other<br />

benefits accrue to the U.S., such as housing<br />

for management personnel, markets for<br />

suppliers, and retail sales.<br />

The 1980s and 1990s saw turbulent<br />

weather again, with Hurricane Allen in August<br />

1980, which moved up the coast and then<br />

inland, skirting the <strong>Valley</strong>’s heavily populated<br />

areas but causing $55 million in damage.<br />

Hurricane Barry moved in south of Brownsville<br />

in August 1983 over northern Mexico, again<br />

sparing the <strong>Valley</strong>, and Hurricane Gilbert<br />

struck 125 miles south of Brownsville in<br />

September 1988, bringing high tides, rainfall,<br />

and damages from $3 to $5 million.<br />

In August 1999, Hurricane Bret was headed<br />

for the <strong>Valley</strong>, but it skirted the region and<br />

made landfall in Kenedy and Kleberg Counties.<br />

South Padre Island had been evacuated when<br />

it appeared the hurricane was going to<br />

strike that area, then Bret turned north.<br />

Below: Though most maquiladora plants<br />

are labor intensive, some are highly<br />

sophisticated and require well-trained<br />

technicians, such as this plant that makes<br />

computer components.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE ECONOMIC<br />

DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

183


default, and the lenders’ generosity broke the<br />

back of many banks.<br />

After the middle of the 1980s, things began<br />

to stabilize and more jobs became available.<br />

The economy was on the upswing again, continuing<br />

through the 1990s. The implementation<br />

of the North American Free Trade<br />

Agreement (NAFTA) in 1994 has greatly<br />

increased international trade through the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> ports of entry, which is expected to<br />

escalate in the future.<br />

HEALTHCARE KEEPS<br />

PACE WITH GROWTH<br />

✧<br />

Above: The 1980s and 1990s saw an<br />

increased awareness of regional cooperation.<br />

In March 1990, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Partnership/Chamber of Commerce honored<br />

outstanding <strong>Valley</strong> citizens Othal Brand,<br />

McAllen Mayor from 1977-1997, and Bill<br />

Card, Harlingen mayor from 1987-1998.<br />

Making the presentation at right is Ygnacio<br />

Garza, Brownsville mayor from 1987-1991.<br />

At left is Sam Vale of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, 1988<br />

Partnership/Chamber chairman and master<br />

of ceremonies for the event.<br />

Below: The present Brownsville Medical<br />

Center evolved from Brownsville’s first<br />

hospital, established by the Sisters of Mercy<br />

of Laredo in 1917 and operated by them as<br />

Mercy Hospital until 1971, when it was sold<br />

and its name changed to Brownsville<br />

Medical Center.<br />

Much of the actual damage was in the Port<br />

Mansfield area.<br />

Drought also hit the area when the water<br />

levels at the Falcon-Amistad Reservoir System<br />

started dropping in 1994, continuing to an<br />

all-time low of nineteen percent of normal<br />

conservation level in 1998. Conservation<br />

measures were instituted as the present<br />

and future water supply came under study<br />

by agricultural interests and city planners.<br />

The water situation is expected to be a<br />

continuing concern.<br />

The economy also had a period of turbulence<br />

in the 1980s, as did all of Texas, with a big boom<br />

in real estate, relaxed lending practices, and then<br />

came the bust. The peso devaluation of the early<br />

1980s hit the <strong>Valley</strong> hard. Property values fell,<br />

homes were repossessed, loans were in massive<br />

Dr. Cayetano E. Barrera III of McAllen, an<br />

amateur historian, has traced the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

medical history back more than 450 years.<br />

Using Dr. Barrera’s data, Tom Fatherree wrote<br />

a lively series of articles published in The<br />

Monitor in 1988. He told of the wandering<br />

Spaniard, Cabeza de Vaca, who accidentally<br />

became known as a healer among the Indians,<br />

and about the yellow fever epidemics in<br />

Brownsville and along both sides of the border<br />

in 1858 and again in 1862, when the<br />

entire area was quarantined.<br />

Don Cayetano Barrera, Dr. Barrera’s<br />

grandfather, moved his family from Mier to<br />

Falfurrias in the 1870s to escape the disease,<br />

later returning to northwestern Hidalgo<br />

County to establish La Reforma Ranch, still in<br />

the Barrera family. Later, sons Cayetano E.<br />

went to medical school and Pedro to<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

184


pharmacy school. They settled in Mission,<br />

established a medical practice and Barrera<br />

Drug Store, and began the family’s medical<br />

tradition that continues today.<br />

Yellow fever hit Fort Brown and<br />

Brownsville again in 1882, and the U.S.<br />

Surgeon General sent Dr. William C. Gorgas<br />

to Brownsville to see what he could do. Dr.<br />

Gorgas risked his own life to prove the mosquito<br />

to be the carrier of yellow fever. Once<br />

control measures were established, this<br />

marked the end of these deadly epidemics.<br />

The hospital where Gorgas worked is now the<br />

Gorgas Administration Building for UT-<br />

Brownsville/Texas Southmost College.<br />

As the area was settled, doctors found their<br />

way to the <strong>Valley</strong>. The Texas Medical<br />

Association established its present structure of<br />

state, district and county chapters in 1869. <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> doctors formed some loose-knit<br />

groups in the 1890s, and after the turn of the<br />

century they got around to organizing county<br />

chapters of the state association. The Cameron<br />

County Medical Society, an arm of the TMA,<br />

was formed in 1906, and a year later the Starr<br />

County Medical Society was organized. In 1914<br />

Hidalgo County doctors were organized.<br />

These organizations have evolved into two<br />

active organizations, the Hidalgo-Starr<br />

County Medical Society and the Cameron-<br />

Willacy Medical Society, each with active auxiliaries.<br />

Doctors from the medical universities<br />

of many countries, including India, Pakistan,<br />

Mexico, and the Dominican Republic have<br />

joined those from U.S. universities to form a<br />

multi-national medical community in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. They are assisted by thousands<br />

of healthcare specialists.<br />

It took a little longer for hospitals to make<br />

their appearance. In an article entitled “Our<br />

Hospital Heritage” in the Harlingen Press for<br />

October 4, 1974, Mrs. Marion R. Lawler, Sr.,<br />

of Mercedes traced the development of area<br />

hospitals. Her husband, Dr. Marion R. Lawler,<br />

Sr., practiced medicine in Mercedes for many<br />

years, and her son, Dr. Marion R. Lawler, Jr.,<br />

is a cardiologist in Harlingen. She wrote:<br />

The oldest hospital in the Lower <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> area is in Brownsville. It was founded<br />

by Miss Nora Kelly, who got permission from<br />

her father to put all the eight or nine elderly<br />

or blind patients her mother had been taking<br />

care of into one room. That was Brownsville’s<br />

first charity home, established in 1901. The<br />

army doctors at Fort Brown tended these sick,<br />

then began to operate on soldiers there with<br />

only meager facilities.<br />

In 1917, a building on Madison Street was<br />

secured to serve as a charity home for<br />

homeless children and indigent elderly<br />

persons. With the assistance of the Sisters of<br />

Mercy of Laredo, this became the Divine<br />

Providence Hospital. In 1923 a new building<br />

was completed and named Mercy Hospital.<br />

The Sisters of Mercy operated it as a<br />

community hospital until 1971, when it was<br />

✧<br />

Above: Harlingen’s first hospital has been<br />

restored and is one of the historic buildings<br />

located in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum<br />

complex near the airport. This hospital was<br />

the forerunner of <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical<br />

Center.<br />

Below: <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Health System<br />

facilities have grown to encompass several<br />

adjoining buildings. Construction began<br />

on the adjacent Regional Academic<br />

Health Center (RAHC) in September<br />

2000, which will train junior and senior<br />

medical students.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

185


✧<br />

Top: The first hospital in the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> was<br />

the Mercedes Surgical and Obstetrical<br />

Hospital established in 1921 with eight<br />

patient rooms. A new building became<br />

Mercedes General Hospital in 1927, which<br />

operated until Knapp Medical Center<br />

opened in 1962.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Above: Knapp Medical Center has served<br />

the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> area since 1962. Its latest<br />

addition includes greatly expanded<br />

emergency and outpatient care facilities<br />

with separate entrances.<br />

sold to a private corporation and the name<br />

changed to Brownsville Medical Center.<br />

Today, the hospital is a 217-bed facility owned<br />

by Tenet Health System that employs more<br />

than eight hundred healthcare professionals<br />

and offers a complete range of the latest<br />

diagnostic, medical, and surgical services.<br />

The second oldest hospital is <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Medical Center in Harlingen, which began in<br />

a ten-bed converted frame house. Soon more<br />

beds were needed and a new thirty-six-bed<br />

facility was built on “F” Street. On January 22,<br />

1925, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Hospital opened as a<br />

not-for-profit community hospital owned by<br />

the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Association. The Baptist General Convention<br />

of Texas acquired the hospital in 1945 and the<br />

facility was moved to its present location on<br />

Pease Street in 1956 with a patient capacity of<br />

152 beds.<br />

Many additions later, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist is a<br />

major acute care hospital with 588 patient<br />

beds, and a large medical and dental staff<br />

representing all major specialties and most<br />

subspecialties. Now part of <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Health System, it began the new millennium<br />

celebrating completion of seventy-five years of<br />

service. Its extensive facilities are surrounded<br />

by medical clinics and doctors offices plus a<br />

new multi-story medical office building. It will<br />

serve as the primary teaching hospital for the<br />

adjacent University of Texas Regional<br />

Academic Health Center (RAHC).<br />

South Texas Hospital in Harlingen opened<br />

in 1955 as the Harlingen State Tuberculosis<br />

Hospital with a capacity of 518 patients to<br />

serve the twenty southernmost Texas<br />

counties. A follow-up clinic was also operated<br />

for indigent patients. The hospital began<br />

operating under the State Department of<br />

Public Health in 1965. By 1967 the patient<br />

capacity was 234. In 1971 the Texas<br />

Legislature changed its name to the Harlingen<br />

State Chest Hospital to provide treatment for<br />

patients with all kinds of chest and respiratory<br />

diseases. In 1985 the Legislature broadened<br />

its mission, changed its name to South Texas<br />

Hospital, and provided space for the<br />

relocation of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> State Center for<br />

Mental Health and Mental Retardation. In<br />

2000, it was undergoing major changes in<br />

services and facilities.<br />

Dolly Vinsant Memorial Hospital in San<br />

Benito was built by community subscription<br />

and opened in 1949. It is named for Wilma<br />

“Dolly” Vinsant, an Army Air Corps flight<br />

nurse from San Benito who was killed during<br />

a mission in World War II. The eighty-onebed<br />

hospital is now privately owned and<br />

offers a broad complement of services in<br />

relaxed surroundings.<br />

The Mid-<strong>Valley</strong>’s first hospital was in<br />

Mercedes, where a hospital board established<br />

the Mercedes Surgical and Obstetrical<br />

Hospital in 1921 with eight patient rooms<br />

plus surgery and obstetrical rooms. In 1927 a<br />

new building on Texas Avenue was named the<br />

Mercedes General Hospital. Later, Weslaco<br />

also had a small hospital named for two<br />

doctors, the McCalip-Ivy Hospital. Both small<br />

hospitals closed when the new Knapp<br />

Hospital opened in 1962.<br />

In 1957 the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Hospital<br />

Development Corporation was organized to<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

186


aise funds and build a larger hospital to serve<br />

Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> communities. Initially sponsored<br />

by the Methodist Church, the one-hundredbed<br />

Knapp Memorial Methodist Hospital<br />

opened on January 2, 1962, filling a great need<br />

in the area. Now named Knapp Medical<br />

Center, a not-for-profit hospital, the addition of<br />

a $31 million patient tower in 1995 increased<br />

it to 233 beds, all private rooms, and its tenbed<br />

emergency department is one of the<br />

busiest in the <strong>Valley</strong>. In June 2000, Knapp<br />

received the Texas Hospital Association’s 2000<br />

Excellence in Community Service Award for its<br />

Diabetes Center, a comprehensive educationbased<br />

program to improve the health of<br />

diabetes patients in its service area.<br />

The movement to establish a hospital in<br />

McAllen began in 1923, and the first McAllen<br />

Municipal Hospital opened in 1925 with<br />

facilities for twenty-five patients. In June 1928 a<br />

larger hospital was built. The new hospital had<br />

85 beds, an automatic elevator, and three<br />

operating rooms. Ward rates ranged from $2 to<br />

$4 per day and private rooms ranged from $4 to<br />

$10 per day, including floor nurses and meals.<br />

Over the years the staff and facilities of the<br />

hospital continued to expand, and by 1952<br />

McAllen had again outgrown its hospital<br />

facilities. A new wing was built, adding 51 rooms<br />

and 92 patient beds. Several more additions and<br />

patient wings were built at the downtown<br />

location before an entirely new hospital was built<br />

by the Expressway.<br />

McAllen Medical Center, no longer city<br />

owned, has 630 licensed beds in several facilities.<br />

In addition to its main center, it includes The<br />

Heart Hospital, a specialty hospital with sixty<br />

beds dedicated to the diagnosis and treatment of<br />

heart and blood vessel disease. Its Medical<br />

Behavioral Health Center and Rehabilitation<br />

Institute provides inpatient rehabilitation in a<br />

freestanding eighty-bed facility, including child<br />

and adolescent services, adult psychiatric,<br />

chemical dependency, and acute rehabilitation<br />

services. Its freestanding Cancer Treatment<br />

Center features individualized chemotherapy<br />

treatment and extensive patient services.<br />

The Edinburg Regional Medical Center is<br />

now part of South Texas Health System, along<br />

with McAllen Medical Center and UHS<br />

Rehabilitation Center, also in Edinburg. It<br />

includes a four-story patient tower, an adjoining<br />

Women’s Pavilion, an outpatient pavilion and<br />

Edinburg Regional Medical Plaza 1. Future<br />

plans include expansion of patient beds from<br />

130 to 250 and construction of an additional<br />

medical office building. This modern Edinburg<br />

hospital succeeds the former city-owned<br />

Edinburg Hospital and the beautiful old<br />

Grandview Hospital built in the 1920s.<br />

The Grandview was described as “one of the<br />

largest and best staffed medical facilities in the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>” in an article in the January-<br />

February 1957 issue of Transgas magazine.<br />

Edinburg is also home to the Tropical<br />

Texas Center for Mental Health and Mental<br />

Retardation, once housed in the Grandview<br />

Hospital, and the Cornerstone Center.<br />

Mission Hospital was established in 1953<br />

as a not-for-profit community hospital.<br />

Restructuring and growth led to the present<br />

✧<br />

Above: What started as a twenty-five-bed<br />

hospital in McAllen in 1923 evolved into the<br />

present McAllen Medical Center in the city’s<br />

medical complex, which includes <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Regional Hospital, and many other<br />

health facilities.<br />

Below: Edinburg’s beautiful old Grandview<br />

Hospital, built in the 1920s, was first<br />

replaced by the city-owned Edinburg<br />

Hospital and in the late 1990s by<br />

Edinburg Regional Medical Center, part of<br />

South Texas Health System, with McAllen<br />

Medical Center.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY<br />

HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

187


✧<br />

Above: Starr County citizens worked for<br />

many years to get their modern Starr<br />

County Memorial Hospital, which opened in<br />

February 1975. It is operated by the Starr<br />

County Hospital District and has a rural<br />

health clinic in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City.<br />

Below: Tourists from the Midwest began to<br />

come to the <strong>Valley</strong> in travel trailers and<br />

modified vans in the late 1930s and 1940s<br />

before trailer parks existed. Shown are some<br />

of these tourists on “moving day” to<br />

temporary space provided by the City of<br />

Weslaco. Soon the Weslaco Trailer Park, the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s first modern park, was built by<br />

R. S. Parker and sons P. C. and Lyle in<br />

1946. Now the <strong>Valley</strong> has more than five<br />

hundred mobile home and RV parks.<br />

138-bed facility on South Bryan Road near<br />

the Expressway. Conveniently connected by an<br />

enclosed walkway is the Mission Doctors<br />

Plaza, which houses the high-tech Physical<br />

Therapy Unit, Imaging Center (MRI), Medical<br />

Equipment Supply Store and a drive-through<br />

pharmacy. Mission Hospital is supported by<br />

a dedicated staff of community physicians.<br />

Along with continued population growth,<br />

recent decades have brought additional<br />

hospitals to the area:<br />

• <strong>Valley</strong> Regional Medical Center in<br />

Brownsville began in 1975 as <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Community Hospital at 1 Ted Hunt<br />

Boulevard. The hospital moved to a new<br />

comprehensive medical complex in 1998<br />

located at Expressway 77/83 and Alton Gloor<br />

Boulevard just north of Brownsville. The<br />

177-bed hospital’s many features include<br />

complete diagnostic imaging, outpatient<br />

services, a hyperbaric and wound care center,<br />

and home health services. It also operates two<br />

clinics in Brownsville—Southmost Family<br />

Medical Center on Southmost Drive and Villa<br />

Maria Clinic on Villa Maria Drive. <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Regional has begun a major expansion that<br />

will greatly increase the number of beds and<br />

services that will be available in the future.<br />

• <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Regional Hospital in McAllen on<br />

East Ridge Road near the Expressway, is a<br />

227-bed facility established in 1982. With<br />

over 300 physicians representing 35 medical<br />

specialties, it offers comprehensive health<br />

services including orthopedics, heart surgery<br />

and cardiac rehabilitation, general medical<br />

and surgical services and rehabilitation. It<br />

also has a Diabetes and Wound Management<br />

Center, several Women’s OB/GYN Clinics,<br />

and has begun a major expansion.<br />

• Starr County Memorial Hospital was the result<br />

of long citizen involvement that began with a<br />

Hospital Committee in 1969 and resulted in<br />

the opening of the county’s new forty-four-bed<br />

hospital in February 1975. Located three miles<br />

west of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, it is operated by the<br />

Starr County Hospital District and also has a<br />

rural health clinic in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City.<br />

• <strong>Valley</strong> Air Care of Harlingen began its<br />

emergency helicopter operations in 1995 to<br />

deliver critical patients to <strong>Valley</strong> hospitals<br />

quickly to improve their chances for survival<br />

and rehabilitation. It also transports children<br />

from the <strong>Valley</strong> to Driscoll Children’s Hospital<br />

in Corpus Christi, as Driscoll Children’s<br />

Hospital Ambulance Transport Department.<br />

Many other clinics, day-surgery centers,<br />

doctors’ groups, and medical support firms are<br />

located over the <strong>Valley</strong>. In addition to providing<br />

outstanding healthcare to <strong>Valley</strong> citizens and<br />

visitors, the healthcare institutions and<br />

professions provide employment to several<br />

thousand area residents.<br />

TOURISM BECOMES<br />

A MAJOR INDUSTRY<br />

The trickle of winter visitors to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> that began in the late 1930s<br />

soon grew to a steady stream. At first,<br />

apartments and motels were built to handle<br />

the growing number of visitors, mostly from<br />

the Midwestern states. Soon they began to<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

188


ing their travel trailers or come in converted<br />

vans to escape the winter cold, but there were<br />

no trailer parks in which they could stay.<br />

It didn’t take long for alert entrepreneurs to<br />

see an opportunity to provide a needed service<br />

and build a good business. In 1946, R. S.<br />

Parker and his sons, P. C. and Lyle, built the<br />

Weslaco Trailer Park, the first modern park in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>, in a cotton field on the edge of<br />

Weslaco. Soon others discovered that RV and<br />

mobile home parks were good investments.<br />

The number of parks mushroomed, especially<br />

in the 1980s, and they got bigger and better. In<br />

2000, over 500 parks provided more than<br />

67,000 spaces.<br />

An estimated 150,000 Winter Texans<br />

spend three to six months in the area each<br />

year, making a major financial impact on the<br />

economy. They also contribute to all aspects<br />

of community life and are great volunteers in<br />

schools, hospitals, libraries and museums.<br />

Area chambers of commerce, convention<br />

and visitor bureaus, tourist clubs, and the<br />

larger RV parks provide social and<br />

recreational activities throughout the winter<br />

season from October to April, attracting<br />

winter residents year after year. Some say<br />

they have been coming twenty years or more<br />

and that they have more friends here than in<br />

their hometowns.<br />

Dr. Vern Vincent, director of the Center for<br />

Tourism Research at the University of Texas-<br />

Pan American, which tracks the industry’s<br />

growth, said Winter Texan tourism to the area<br />

continues to increase, with 3.5 percent growth<br />

from 1997 to 1999.<br />

Travel to Mexico through the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> took a new direction after the severe<br />

freeze of 1951 that devastated area citrus<br />

orchards. The freeze also ended Dan<br />

Sanborn’s newsletter to out-of-area owners of<br />

citrus orchards and others, “Dan Sanborn’s<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> News Letter,” which was<br />

his livelihood. A journalist from Kankakee,<br />

Illinois, Sanborn had come to McAllen in<br />

1946 when his wife Eleanor rebelled at<br />

having to care for four children in a climate<br />

where they were in and out of snowsuits<br />

all winter. After the freeze, he opened a<br />

tourist store in McAllen featuring out-ofstate<br />

newspapers, Mexican curios and books<br />

about Mexico.<br />

People started asking about Mexico<br />

insurance, so he sold insurance and began<br />

the famous “Sanborn Travelogs,” mile-bymile<br />

road logs on separate sheets that could<br />

be combined for each trip. Mexico travel<br />

grew and grew, as did Dan’s business. He is<br />

credited with doing more than any other<br />

individual to stimulate travel in Mexico and<br />

to build good relations between the two<br />

countries. Dan’s son Bill now manages<br />

Sanborn’s headquarters in McAllen, and<br />

Sanborn insurance offices are operated<br />

independently in many border cities.<br />

As tourism increased, more and more<br />

people looked toward storied South Padre<br />

Island as a potential resort, but access to the<br />

Island was limited to ferries and small boats<br />

until the early 1950s. When Cameron County<br />

built the first Queen Isabella Causeway,<br />

dedicated on July 3, 1952, the dream of a<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Ted R. Hunt was among<br />

proponents of tourism and a new causeway.<br />

He was Cameron County commissioner<br />

from 1943 to 1973, and the causeway was<br />

dedicated to him for his many years of<br />

service when it opened in September 1974.<br />

Above: Dan Sanborn encouraged Mexico<br />

tourism with his Travelogs, which he gave to<br />

those who bought their Mexico insurance<br />

from Sanborn’s International Travel. The<br />

travel service also sparked motorcoach tours<br />

to Mexico, with many such services now<br />

making travel to Mexico’s interior safe, easy,<br />

and enjoyable.<br />

Below: South Padre Island has grown into a<br />

world class tourist resort with its white sand<br />

beaches, wide range of accommodations,<br />

restaurants and entertainment facilities,<br />

and its dedicated residents who make it<br />

all possible.<br />

COURTESY OF THE SOUTH PADRE ISLAND<br />

CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU.<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

189


✧<br />

Top: Many shorebirds visit South Padre<br />

Island, adding it to the long list of the<br />

region’s birding sites.<br />

COURTESY OF EILEEN MATTEI.<br />

Above: Birding festivals have become<br />

popular in the area. An estimated one<br />

hundred thousand visitors are expected<br />

to visit the area’s World Birding<br />

Center locations annually when they are<br />

fully developed.<br />

COURTESY OF EILEEN MATTEI.<br />

great new Texas beach resort began to be<br />

realized. Finally, there was easy access to the<br />

beautiful white sand beaches of South Padre<br />

Island. The county built parks and public<br />

facilities that in just two years brought over<br />

1.5 million visitors to the Island. A host of<br />

private developers sold lots, and built hotels,<br />

motels, and homes.<br />

When increased traffic began to create<br />

problems at the county causeway, the Texas<br />

Department of Transportation came to the rescue<br />

to build the present $12-million Queen<br />

Isabella Causeway in 1974. The longest<br />

bridge in Texas, it spans 12,510 feet across the<br />

blue Laguna Madre from Port Isabel to South<br />

Padre Island and chalks up over seven million<br />

vehicle crossings a year. Many new high-rise<br />

hotels and condominiums were built on the<br />

island in the 1980s, and the word spread to<br />

tourists and investors about the nation’s<br />

newest resort.<br />

Initially considered more of a summer<br />

playground, the island has added many yearround<br />

activities, and events in its convention<br />

center attract winter visitors from the northern<br />

states and Canada. New construction, which<br />

had been quiet after the big boom of the<br />

1980s, resumed in the late 1990s to provide<br />

additional motels and entertainment facilities.<br />

The development of South Padre Island made<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> a year-round tourist destination,<br />

bringing national and international visitors to<br />

the area.<br />

At the other end of the <strong>Valley</strong>, Falcon Dam,<br />

completed in 1953 for flood control and<br />

water conservation, also provided a major<br />

recreational area for camping, boating, and<br />

fishing at Falcon Lake and Park.<br />

The opening of the world class Gladys<br />

Porter Zoo in Brownsville in 1971 gave<br />

tourism another big boost and continues to be<br />

a major attraction. The zoo was built and<br />

stocked with rare animals from over the world<br />

as a gift to the area by the Earl C. Sams<br />

Foundation through Sams’ daughter, Gladys<br />

Porter. It is operated by the City of<br />

Brownsville with the support of the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Zoological Society and others.<br />

When the Texas Parks & Wildlife<br />

Department saw how many “birders” visit the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> each year and studied the possibilities<br />

for increased tourism, they came up with the<br />

idea for a new World Birding Center. The<br />

primary locations will be Mission, Weslaco,<br />

and Brownsville. Mission will be the center’s<br />

headquarters, housing administrative offices<br />

and special exhibits. There will be several<br />

additional satellite centers, including historic<br />

Quinta Mazatlán in McAllen. Upon<br />

completion, the Birding Center is expected to<br />

bring one hundred thousand visitors its first<br />

year and to be of great interest to both shortterm<br />

and long-term visitors.<br />

Birds are even bringing new businesses to<br />

the area, like Wild Birds Unlimited, which<br />

opened recently in McAllen, and the Wild<br />

Bird Center store in Harlingen. Aimed more at<br />

backyard birders than tourists, they have just<br />

about everything a bird could want.<br />

Ecotourism also gets a boost from<br />

organizations like The Nature Conservancy of<br />

Texas, and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Wildlife Corridor,<br />

which work with other agencies to protect the<br />

rich diversity of plants, animals and ecosystems<br />

native to the area for future generations.<br />

No matter the time of year, the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is a prime destination for<br />

tourists, with palm trees and balmy weather,<br />

the beaches and fishing of Port Mansfield,<br />

Port Isabel and South Padre Island, and<br />

nature preserves full of exotic wildlife. Just<br />

across the border, Mexico affords a different<br />

world with excellent shopping, great food<br />

and friendly people. The border cities of<br />

Matamoros and Reynosa have grown from<br />

their early Spanish beginnings to major cities<br />

with over five hundred thousand people<br />

each. In between, the newer city of Nuevo<br />

Progreso is just a short walk across an<br />

international bridge to a haven for eager<br />

shoppers. All of this translates into a major<br />

industry that joins agriculture, manufacturing,<br />

and trade to form the three main<br />

branches of the region’s economy.<br />

As the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> enters the new<br />

millennium, its citizens combine a deep<br />

appreciation of their rich heritage with a<br />

positive approach to the future. The economy<br />

is solid, the region continues to grow and<br />

diversify, new construction is everywhere, and<br />

the future of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> looks very<br />

bright indeed.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

190


BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

Chatelle, Miriam. For We Love Our <strong>Valley</strong> Home. San Antonio: The Naylor Co., 1948. (Memories of the early days of Los Fresnos and<br />

how it developed.)<br />

Chatfield, W. H. Twin Cities of the Border. Brownsville: privately printed, 1893. (Includes photographs of Brownsville and Matamoros and<br />

information on Upper <strong>Valley</strong>.)<br />

Chilton, Carl S., Jr. Seventy Years of Airport History in Brownsville: 1929-1999. Brownsville: City of Brownsville, 2000.<br />

Chilton, Carl S. Jr. Port of Brownsville: Sixty Years of Service. Brownsville: Port of Brownsville, 1997.<br />

Chorlian, Ruth Whitehead. The Long Trail of the Texas Longhorns. Austin: Eakin Press, 1986.<br />

Christensen, Carol and Thomas. The U. S.-Mexican War. San Francisco: Bay Books, 1998. (Companion to the Public Television Series<br />

The U. S.-Mexican War, 1846-1848. Video also available.)<br />

Doyon, Bernard, O.M.I. The Cavalry of Christ on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 1849-1883. Milwaukee: Bruce Press for Catholic Life Publications, 1956.<br />

Ferguson, Henry. The Port of Brownsville: A History. Brownsville: Springman-King Press, 1976. (A general history of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> with many interesting stories and anecdotes.)<br />

Gerhardt, Karen and Tamez, Blanca E. Images of America - Weslaco. Charleston: Arcadia Publishing Co., 1999.<br />

Horgan, Paul. Great River. (Two volumes). New York: Holt Rinehart Winston, 1954. (A detailed, fascinating work that reaches far back<br />

in time.)<br />

Irby, James A. Backdoor at Bagdad, The Civil War in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. El Paso: Texas Western Press, University of Texas at El Paso,<br />

1977.<br />

Johnson, Marjorie, Ed. <strong>Valley</strong> Proud History Cookbook - Tales and Recipes of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas. Edinburg: New Santander Press<br />

for the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce, Weslaco, Texas, 1991.<br />

Lea, Tom. The King Ranch. (Two volumes). Boston: Little Brown and Company, 1957. (A history of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> with emphasis<br />

on steamboating, the Civil War, the King Ranch and development of the cattle industry in Texas.)<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Historic</strong>al Society, Selections from Collected Papers of the LRGV <strong>Historic</strong>al Society, 1949-1979, Volume 1. Harlingen:<br />

Lon C. Hill Library, 1979.<br />

McAllen High School American Studies Class 1974-75. McAllen: A Bicentennial Reflection. Faculty advisers: Betty Bloomfield and Marlyn<br />

Gupton. McAllen: McAllen High School, 1975.<br />

Miller, Hubert J. Jose de Escandon, Colonizer of Nuevo Santander. Edinburg: New Santander Press, 1980.<br />

Miller, Hubert J. Padre Miguel Hidalgo, Father of Mexican Independence. Edinburg: Pan American University Press, 1986.<br />

Miller, Hubert J. Antonio de Mendoza, First Viceroy of Mexico. Edinburg: New Santander Press, 1972.<br />

Pope, Dorothy Lee. Rainbow Era on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Brownsville: Springman-King Company, 1971. (Splendid account of the land<br />

excursions and a history of Alamo/Ebenezer.)<br />

Pierce, Frank Cushman. Texas’ Last Frontier: A Brief History of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas. Menasha, Wisconsin: George Banta Pub Co.,<br />

1917; reprinted in 1962 and 1996. (A little book with a viewpoint from turbulent times.)<br />

Raimond, Vance D. Transportation - A Key to the Magic <strong>Valley</strong>. Edinburg: New Santander Press, 1996. (A History of the <strong>Valley</strong> Transit Bus<br />

Company 1941-1996 and Progressive Growth and Development of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas.)<br />

Ramirez, Emilia Schunior. Ranch Life in Hidalgo County after 1850. Edinburg: New Santander Press, 1971.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Writers, The. One Hundred Women of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas. Austin: Eakin Press, 1983.<br />

Robertson, Brian. Wild Horse Desert: The Heritage of South Texas. Edinburg: New Santander Press for Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum,<br />

1985. (Excellent history of the area through the 1930s.)<br />

Robinson, Charles M. III. Frontier Forts of Texas. Houston: Lone Star Books, A Division of Gulf Publishing Company, 1986.<br />

Sanchez, Mario L., Ed. A Shared Experience: The History, Architecture and <strong>Historic</strong> Designations of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Heritage Corridor.<br />

Second Edition. Austin: Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> Heritage Project and the Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission, 1994. (Excellent history of the<br />

“Roads of the River” from Laredo to the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Detailed descriptions, photos and drawings of historical buildings.<br />

Available from Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong>, Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Society.)<br />

Schmitt, Karl M. Mexico and the United States, 1821-1973: Conflict and Coexistence. New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1974.<br />

Scott, Florence Johnson. <strong>Historic</strong>al Heritage of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Revised Edition. Waco: Texian Press, 1966. (Educator-Author who<br />

spent most of her adult life in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City. Outstanding account of the early Spanish colonization along the border.)<br />

Scott, Florence Johnson. Old Rough and Ready on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Revised Edition. Waco: Texian Press, 1969. (General Zachary Taylor<br />

during the U.S.-Mexican War.)<br />

CHAPTER VIII<br />

191


Scott, Florence Johnson. Royal Land Grants North of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> 1777-1821. Waco: Texian Press, 1969.<br />

(Author’s note: Unfortunately, Florence Johnson Scott’s excellent books are out of print. They may be found in <strong>Valley</strong> libraries and in<br />

the private collections of area historians.)<br />

Stambaugh, J. Lee and Stambaugh, Lillian J. The Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas: Its Colonization and Industrialization, 1518-1953. Austin:<br />

Jenkins Publishing Company, 1964. Reprinted 1974. (Detailed, well-researched reference work with good index. Out of print, but<br />

can be found in <strong>Valley</strong> libraries.)<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Byliners. Gift of the <strong>Rio</strong>. Mission: Border Kingdom Press, 1975. (A collection of articles about <strong>Valley</strong> history by members of<br />

writers’ group.)<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Byliners. <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Roundup. Mission: Border Kingdom Press, 1980. (About individuals who helped make <strong>Valley</strong> history.)<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Byliners: Roots by the River. Mission: Border Kingdom Press, 1978. (About the early pioneers of the area.)<br />

(Author’s note: The three <strong>Valley</strong> Byliner books are no longer in print, but can be found in most <strong>Valley</strong> libraries.)<br />

Webb, Walter Prescott. The Texas Rangers. Austin: UT Press, 1977. (A lively account of the heroic, wild and reckless Texas Rangers.)<br />

Wooldridge, Ruby and Vezzetti, Robert. Brownsville: A Pictorial History. Norfolk: Donning Company, 1982. (Excellent photographic<br />

history of Brownsville. Available at Brownsville museums and Brownsville <strong>Historic</strong>al Association.)<br />

Newspapers and Other Publications:<br />

Brownsville Herald, Brownsville, Texas<br />

McAllen Evening Monitor, McAllen, Texas<br />

Mercedes Enterprise, Mercedes, Texas<br />

Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Town Crier, Weslaco, Texas<br />

Raymondville Chronicle and Willacy County News, Raymondville, Texas<br />

RGV Business, McAllen, Texas<br />

San Benito News, San Benito, Texas<br />

Upper <strong>Valley</strong> Progress, Mission, Texas<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Morning Star, Harlingen, Texas<br />

Tip-O-Texan Magazine, Weslaco, monthly publication of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce, 1965-1975.<br />

Yearbook of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and Northern Mexico, 1945-1980.<br />

Special Publications:<br />

Chamber of Commerce Publications of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Cities<br />

Heritage Foundation of Hidalgo County: Pumphouse News, 1993-2000.<br />

Hester, A. F., Family History - draft. Compiled by Guy W. Jones, McAllen, and F. L. (Champ) Jones, Donna. Contains extensive<br />

information and documents of the early days of Run (Runn) and Donna.<br />

Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission: Newsletters, 1993-2000.<br />

Hidalgo County: The Hidalgo County Centennial Celebration Book, 1952.<br />

International Falcon Dam Souvenir Program, 1953.<br />

Palo Alto Battlefield - The Battle of Palo Alto and the Mexican-American War. U.S. Government Printing Office for National Park Service,<br />

U.S. Department of the Interior, 1994.<br />

Southwestern <strong>Historic</strong>al Quarterly, The State <strong>Historic</strong>al Association, Vol. LXXVII, No. 2, October 1973<br />

Old news clippings and special editions:<br />

Advance News Publications<br />

La Feria News<br />

Mission Times<br />

Pharr Press<br />

Weslaco News<br />

Sand Dollar Watch<br />

Old Newspaper Clippings and Special Editions:<br />

Encyclopedias and Handbooks:<br />

Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc. William Benton, Publisher. The University of Chicago, 1972.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

192


Historia de México, Book 13. Mexico: Salvat Mexicana de Ediciones, S.A. de C.V., 1978.<br />

The Handbook of Texas Online. A Joint Project of the General Libraries at the University of Texas at Austin and the Texas State <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Association. Austin: 1997-2000.<br />

Photographs and Illustrations:<br />

Special appreciation goes to the Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission for permission to use photographs from its archives and to<br />

HCHC Chairman Bill Foerster for providing the photos on computer disks, and to Glenn Housley of Weslaco for sharing his collection<br />

of early photos.<br />

Thanks go to the Port Isabel <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum and Treasures of the Gulf Museums, Port Isabel, for their outstanding exhibits, of<br />

which photographs provided illustrations for the early historical eras. Thanks also go to the Brownsville <strong>Historic</strong>al Association, Donna<br />

Hooks Fletcher Museum, Donna; Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum, Edinburg; <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum, Harlingen, and Weslaco<br />

Bicultural Museum for sharing pictures and information from their collections.<br />

Photographs and illustrations not otherwise credited are from the files of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership or the private collection<br />

of the author and her late husband, Burt Johnson. Current photos were taken by the author during the preparation of the book.<br />

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS<br />

Invaluable resources in the preparation of this book were Florence Johnson Scott’s <strong>Historic</strong>al Heritage of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, J.<br />

Lee Stambaugh and Lillian J. Stambaugh’s The Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas, Brian Robertson’s Wild Horse Desert, Dr. Hubert Miller’s<br />

Padre Miguel Hidalgo and Antonio de Mendoza, and A Shared Experience edited by Dr. Mario Sanchez for the Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> Heritage<br />

Project and the Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission. The bibliography lists these and other references, each of which provided useful information.<br />

In addition to those who helped through the legacy of their writing, thanks go to the many persons who gave assistance and advice in<br />

compiling this book. Area historians from Brownsville to Roma reviewed sections that pertained to their cities, and their contributions are<br />

greatly appreciated.<br />

Special thanks go to George R. Gause, Jr., and Virginia Haynie Gause, University of Texas-Pan American Library, for their interest and<br />

assistance; to Ann Washington, Edinburg, for checking the work for historical accuracy; and to Dr. Craig Wiegand of Weslaco for his<br />

careful review and editing of the manuscript.<br />

BIBLIOGRAPHY<br />

193


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

194


SHARING THE HERITAGE<br />

historic profiles of businesses,<br />

organizations, and families that have<br />

contributed to the development and<br />

SPECIAL<br />

THANKS TO<br />

economic base of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

JP Morgan Chase<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196<br />

EDUCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250<br />

Paseo de la Resau<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290<br />

THE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326<br />

SHARING THE HERITAGE<br />

195


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

196


BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

the cities, towns, bridges, utilities, and<br />

civic organizations that help to define and<br />

support the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

City of Brownsville .....................................................................198<br />

City of Harlingen .......................................................................202<br />

City of Mercedes and<br />

Economic Development Corporation of Mercedes ............................206<br />

City of Mission ...........................................................................210<br />

Town of South Padre Island ..........................................................214<br />

City of McAllen ..........................................................................218<br />

Greater Mission Chamber of Commerce ..........................................221<br />

City of Donna ............................................................................222<br />

City of Edcouch ..........................................................................224<br />

City of Hidalgo and Hidalgo Economic Development Corporation........226<br />

City of La Feria .........................................................................228<br />

City of Pharr and Pharr Economic Development Corporation .............230<br />

City of Raymondville...................................................................232<br />

City of Roma..............................................................................234<br />

City of San Benito ......................................................................236<br />

City of Weslaco ..........................................................................238<br />

The Brownsville & Matamoros Bridge Company ...............................240<br />

Starr-Camargo Bridge Company ....................................................242<br />

Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative, Inc. ..........................................244<br />

Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge ...............................................246<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> International Airport .........................................................248<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership ......................................................249<br />

✧<br />

Top: This distinctive city hall was built in<br />

Mercedes in 1928. It has housed the police<br />

and fire departments since a new city hall<br />

was built.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HCHC ARCHIVES.<br />

Bottom: In 1952 the first causeway was<br />

built to connect the mainland to the now<br />

famous South Padre Island, until then<br />

accessible only by boat and ferry. It had a<br />

bridge that swung open so that boats plying<br />

the Laguna Madre and barges using the<br />

Intracoastal Canal could pass.<br />

COURTESY OF GLENN HOUSLEY.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

197


✧<br />

Above: Former Brownsville Mayor John S.<br />

“Rip” Ford is shown in the Confederate<br />

Colonel’s uniform he wore when he<br />

commanded victorious Southern forces in<br />

the last battle of the Civil War east of<br />

Brownsville on May 13, 1865.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

Below: Elizabeth Street, Brownsville’s main<br />

street, is shown in this 1865 image. The<br />

street is named after the wife of Charles<br />

Stillman who was one of the earliest<br />

developers in the city.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

CITY OF<br />

BROWNSVILLE<br />

In 1770 the Spanish Crown granted José de<br />

la Garza and his wife Gertrudis, the daughter of<br />

pioneer Captain Blais Maria Falcon, fifty-nine<br />

leagues of land north of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. For the<br />

next seventy-five years, only small ranches<br />

dotted the grasslands and thickets that were to<br />

become the City of Brownsville.<br />

In April 1846 General Zachary Taylor<br />

established Fort Texas across the river from<br />

Matamoros. Quickly built, the earthen walls of<br />

Fort Texas enclosed an area designed to hold<br />

five regiments. Mexican forces bombarded the<br />

Fort on May 2, causing the death of its<br />

commander Major Jacob Brown. Six days later,<br />

the Battle of Palo Alto, the first engagement of<br />

the Mexican American War took place north of<br />

Fort Texas, pitting 2,300 American soldiers<br />

against 4,000 Mexican troops. The next day, the<br />

armies clashed at Resaca de la Palma, five miles<br />

to the south, with the Mexican troops<br />

retreating. The same day President James Polk<br />

requested Congress to declare war on Mexico<br />

for earlier acts of aggression.<br />

The town of Brownsville rose around the<br />

renamed Fort Brown as the war ended in<br />

1848 with the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo<br />

that set the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as the border between<br />

the United States and Mexico. The property<br />

rights of one-time Mexican citizens were<br />

recognized; they could opt for Mexican or<br />

American citizenship, but they would be<br />

under American laws and English language.<br />

Cameron County was established in 1848 and<br />

Brownsville soon became the county seat.<br />

After the war, Americans such as Charles<br />

Stillman began purchasing land from Mexican<br />

property owners. At Stillman’s request, surveyor<br />

George Lyons drew a town site for the new town<br />

of Brownsville, covering 4,676 acres, complete<br />

with streets and lots on the land encircling Fort<br />

Brown. Within a matter of months, Stillman and<br />

his partners Simon Mussina and Samuel Beldon<br />

had sold enough lots to create a town of two<br />

thousand residents, a cosmopolitan mix of<br />

French, Spanish, German, and American settlers<br />

and their families. City Hall on Market Square,<br />

circa 1851, is the oldest continuously occupied<br />

City Hall west of the Mississippi.<br />

By 1850, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> had become the<br />

region’s major highway, linking the Gulf Port of<br />

Brazos Santiago to Brownsville and from there<br />

to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City and Roma using steam<br />

boats designed for the shallow river. Richard<br />

King and Mifflin Kenedy were among the<br />

storied, successful riverboat captains. Many of<br />

Brownsville’s famous names trace their roots to<br />

this time. Francisco Yturria founded Yturria<br />

Bank in Brownsville in 1854. William Neale<br />

owned stage lines in the region. Strong<br />

commercial, social and cultural ties to the twin<br />

city of Matamoros were forged. Smuggling<br />

remained a common way of moving goods<br />

from one nation to the next.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

198


The religious needs of residents of<br />

Brownsville and the surrounding areas were<br />

served by Oblate priests visiting far-flung<br />

ranches on horseback and by circuit riding<br />

Protestant ministers. Methodist, Presbyterian<br />

and Episcopal churches were established by<br />

1851. Architect and Oblate Father Pierre<br />

Keralum designed the Immaculate<br />

Conception Church, a spired Gothic building,<br />

completed in 1859. French nuns opened the<br />

Incarnate Word Academy for young women in<br />

1853 while public education and a<br />

Presbyterian school began the next year. The<br />

Oblate Fathers established St. Joseph’s<br />

Academy in 1862.<br />

The Civil War transformed Brownsville into<br />

a major port as its strategic border location<br />

presented the Confederacy with a lifeline. Being<br />

the middleman for commerce brought<br />

Brownsville prosperity and excitement.<br />

Confederate farmers carted their cotton to<br />

Brownsville and other crossing points in South<br />

Texas to sell and ship it from the unblocked<br />

Mexican port of Bagdad. Confederate forces<br />

channeled guns, ammunition, and war materiel<br />

north from Mexico through Brownsville. Soon<br />

after Texas seceded from the Union in 1861, the<br />

Federal troops at Fort Brown had surrendered<br />

and Texas volunteers commanded by Colonel<br />

John “Rip” Ford moved in. When rebel General<br />

H. P. Bee abandoned Fort Brown in 1863 on the<br />

threat of a Union attack, he set fires that<br />

destroyed the Fort and much of Brownsville as<br />

well. In July 1864 Colonel Ford claimed an<br />

empty Fort Brown. On May 13, 1865, more<br />

than a month after the Civil War ended, Ford<br />

and Union Colonel Theodore Barrett clashed at<br />

the Palomito Ranch near Brownsville, in what<br />

was to be the last land battle of the Civil War.<br />

General Phil Sheridan led the Reconstruction<br />

efforts at Fort Brown, using local brick to create<br />

buildings that endure to this day as part of The<br />

University of Texas at Brownsville. Epidemics,<br />

hurricanes, carpetbaggers, bandits and cattle<br />

rustlers staggered Brownsville’s attempts to<br />

reorganize after the war. Ranches in the area<br />

grew steadily larger and became a mainstay of<br />

the economy. In 1875 Texas Rangers arrived in<br />

Brownsville and halted raids which were<br />

relocating hundreds of thousands of American<br />

cattle into Mexico.<br />

In 1876 George Brulay began pump<br />

irrigating one thousand acres of sugarcane near<br />

Brownsville on the former Agostadero del<br />

Espíritu land grant. Other farmers followed his<br />

lead, building canals for irrigation to take<br />

advantage of the delta’s fertile soil and creating<br />

the agricultural expansion, which supported<br />

Brownsville’s growth for decades.<br />

When a railroad was built from Corpus<br />

Christi to Laredo in 1876, Brownsville lost its<br />

importance as a gateway to Mexico’s interior.<br />

By 1903 railroad developer Uriah Lott had<br />

secured funding and rights of way to<br />

underwrite the construction of the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville and Mexico Rail Company.<br />

Construction began in July 1903 with<br />

✧<br />

Top: Barrilleros, or water haulers, were<br />

once a common sight on Brownsville streets.<br />

For many local residents, these watermen<br />

were the only source of drinking water. This<br />

photograph dates from around 1865.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

Above: Immaculate Conception Cathedral,<br />

still standing, is shown in this 1868 image<br />

taken from the balcony of the Old City<br />

Market. The church was completed in 1854<br />

and is the seat of the Catholic Diocese of<br />

Brownsville.<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE<br />

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

199


✧<br />

Above: A $6 million renovation has made<br />

the Brownsville Municipal Golf Center one<br />

of the premier golf courses in South Texas.<br />

COURTESY OF CITY OF BROWNSVILLE.<br />

Below: The City’s tree spade, shown here<br />

outside the new $27 million U.S.<br />

Courthouse complex, is helping to maintain<br />

Brownsville’s image as the most heavilyforested<br />

city in South Texas.<br />

COURTESY OF CITY OF BROWNSVILLE.<br />

projected costs of $12,500 per mile. Civil<br />

engineer Sam Robertson was subcontracted to<br />

lay the track, build bridges and surface the<br />

railway. Beginning outside Robstown,<br />

Robertson’s four-hundred-man crew cleared<br />

the way across territory known as the Wild<br />

Horse Desert and Desert of the Dead, through<br />

chaparral savanna—thickets, cactus and sand,<br />

rattlesnake nests, winter cold, and then<br />

relentless heat. On July 4, 1904, the first<br />

train chugged down the tracks to Brownsville<br />

on an eleven-hour, forty-minute ride from<br />

Corpus Christi. The renovated Southern<br />

Pacific depot lives on today as the <strong>Historic</strong><br />

Brownsville Museum.<br />

Transportation lines have been important<br />

for the city’s development. The first<br />

international bridge connecting Brownsville<br />

and Matamoros opened for traffic in 1909.<br />

More bandit raids and general lawlessness<br />

brought U.S. National Guard troops to protect<br />

the area between 1915 and 1917. In 1929<br />

Charles Lindbergh landed in Brownsville on<br />

the first Pan American flight from Mexico City<br />

to the U.S. Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart<br />

attended the dedication of the Brownsville<br />

Municipal Airport on March 10, 1929.<br />

Brownsville’s deep-water port evolved from a<br />

vision of local shipper Louis Cobolini. The<br />

formation of the Brownsville Navigation<br />

District in 1928 on 201,668 acres preceded<br />

the construction of the $5.6 million,<br />

seventeen-mile long ship channel dug from<br />

Brazos Santiago Pass to Brownsville’s new<br />

turning basin which opened in 1936. Today<br />

Brownsville’s international bridges, Veterans<br />

International Bridge at Los Tomates, Gateway<br />

and B&M, sustain the city’s historic<br />

commercial and social ties to Matamoros.<br />

With the Port of Brownsville, home of a large<br />

shrimp fleet, the city can offer four modes of<br />

cargo transportation: sea, as well as rail, land,<br />

and air.<br />

Brownsville, on the border by the sea, has<br />

weathered hurricanes; peso devaluations and<br />

population surges as it matured to a vibrant<br />

city of 150,000 residents spread over sixty<br />

square miles. It is home to the acclaimed<br />

Gladys Porter Zoo, Stillman House Museum,<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Brownsville Museum, and the<br />

Confederate Air Force Museum. Among the<br />

city’s prized assets are the Brownsville Public<br />

Library, a park system that maintains eighteen<br />

parks and a newly-remodeled Brownsville<br />

Golf Center golf course, and the Brownsville<br />

Urban System, provider of economical mass<br />

transportation. The University of Texas at<br />

Brownsville/Texas Southmost College is an<br />

integral part of the city’s educational and<br />

cultural resources. Being the county seat,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

200


Brownsville is the site of county offices<br />

and county and federal courthouses.<br />

Brownsville’s economic base has diversified<br />

although it maintains close ties to Mexican<br />

manufacturing plants and cross-border trade.<br />

Existing businesses are expanding and new<br />

companies are locating in Brownsville, all<br />

creating new jobs in the community.<br />

The Charro Days Festival celebrates the<br />

city’s heritage with parades, food, and fun in<br />

late February. Events as varied as Diez y Seis<br />

de Septiembre, Zoofari, Confederate Air Force<br />

Air Fiesta, concerts, art exhibitions, lecture<br />

series and the Christmas Tree Lighting add to<br />

the excitement of Brownsville life. The city is<br />

the birthplace of writer Américo Paredes and<br />

Kris Kristofferson and has claimed as<br />

residents Lew Wallace, Abner Doubleday,<br />

Robert E. Lee, Ulysses S. Grant, Jefferson<br />

Davis, and Juan Cortina.<br />

The City of Brownsville draws on its<br />

lively past to enhance its tourism industry and<br />

to claim its place in the ranks of historic places<br />

in Texas. The Brownsville <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Association/ Stillman House Museum has<br />

deeded to the City the future home of the<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Education Center, which will<br />

emphasize the historic importance of<br />

Washington Street and the downtown area.<br />

The <strong>Historic</strong> Brownsville Museum is enlarging<br />

its facility and, nearby, the Brownsville Police<br />

Department is working to open a Law<br />

Enforcement Museum. The Brownsville Art<br />

League operates an art museum, which<br />

sponsors exhibitions throughout the year.<br />

As time marches on, Brownsville is<br />

emerging into it rightful place as a major<br />

player-perhaps the major player—in South<br />

Texas. It is a challenge and a future the<br />

residents of the city accept gladly.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Soon-to-be-President George W.<br />

Bush, 6th from left, joined Mexican<br />

President Ernesto Zedillo, seventh from left,<br />

to officially open the newest international<br />

bridge in Brownsville, Veterans<br />

International Bridge at Los Tomatoes.<br />

COURTESY OF THE CITY OF BROWNSVILLE.<br />

Below: Crowds swarm Gateway<br />

International Bridge during an international<br />

exchange of friendship that is a part of the<br />

annual Charro Days Festival. The pre-<br />

Lenten celebration has been a part of the<br />

City of Brownsville since 1938.<br />

COURTESY OF CITY OF BROWNSVILLE.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

201


CITY OF<br />

HARLINGEN<br />

For over one hundred years, the area now<br />

known as Harlingen has been a key crossroads<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Where once only<br />

pioneers like the Jesus Saldaña family inhabited<br />

the dense thickets of mesquite and huisache<br />

along the Arroyo Colorado, today a city of<br />

seventy-two thousand residents flourishes.<br />

Lawyer and visionary Lon C. Hill, of<br />

Beeville, Texas, began buying Cameron<br />

County land in 1902: 11,007 acres from the<br />

Commissioners Court, school lands, and a<br />

parcel from Henrietta King, paying up to<br />

$2.50 per acre. “These rich lands existed and<br />

only awaited the putting of water on them to<br />

make them fabulously productive,” Hill<br />

wrote. He intended to sell farm tracts and<br />

develop a town on the banks of the Arroyo<br />

Colorado, but soon shifted the town site west<br />

to run along the new railroad tracks, at the<br />

spot railroad construction crews called<br />

Rattlesnake Junction. By 1904, three hundred<br />

people lived in the area, enough to warrant a<br />

post office, which was named Harlingen. The<br />

new town’s namesake was a canal-encircled<br />

Dutch town, the ancestral home of railroad<br />

president Uriah Lott.<br />

Harlingen was little more than a whistlestop<br />

when the first train of the Brownsville,<br />

St. Louis, and Matamoros Railway passed<br />

through on July 4, 1904. “During village days,<br />

train time was the event of the day; everybody<br />

met the train,” an early settler remembered.<br />

Most of the men in the area were Texas<br />

Rangers, United States Mounted Customs<br />

Patrol officers, and construction workers.<br />

They set up target ranges near the railway<br />

station and often were blazing away when the<br />

train pulled in, prompting the conductor’s call<br />

of “All out for Six Shooter Junction.”<br />

In 1905 the Hill family moved into<br />

Harlingen’s first home. Fourteen students<br />

were schooled in a nearby building. Early<br />

settlers included the James Lockhart, J. C.<br />

McBee, A. W. Weller and Santos Lozano<br />

families. Lozano bought the first lot sold on<br />

Jackson Street and built a general store with<br />

living quarters upstairs in 1906. Mrs. Weller<br />

managed the two-story railroad hotel at Van<br />

Buren and what is now First Street. Between<br />

the railroad tracks and the Weller home (site<br />

of the present City Hall), the brush was still so<br />

thick in 1907 that it was impossible to see the<br />

train pass. In that area, handmade bricks from<br />

Hill’s kiln on the Arroyo Colorado were used<br />

to construct the city’s first brick structure.<br />

Nearby Harlingen State Bank occupied the<br />

first floor of a building, which had sleeping<br />

rooms for canal riders upstairs. Not far away<br />

was the Prisoner’s Tree where lawbreakers<br />

were restrained by heavy trace chains until<br />

they could be taken to the county jail.<br />

By 1907, Hill had created an irrigation<br />

company able to supply water to seventy-five<br />

thousand acres, and he began recruiting<br />

settlers to purchase the rich farmland. April<br />

15, 1910, marks the official founding of the<br />

City of Harlingen. The city’s first project was<br />

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to build a water system to replace the muledrawn<br />

water carts. By 1912, the city’s first<br />

school, known as Main School and later as<br />

Central Ward and Sam Houston, was<br />

constructed on East Jackson. Bandit raids<br />

disturbed the region’s social and economic<br />

progress during 1915-1917, burning the Hill<br />

sugar mill and causing many to flee the area.<br />

By 1919, stability prevailed and the city<br />

banned wooden buildings, set a 10 P. M.<br />

curfew for children, and enforced a speed<br />

limit of 15 miles per hour for automobiles.<br />

Land development continued to boom<br />

with trainloads of land parties arriving from<br />

northern states almost daily. Thousands of<br />

small vegetable tracts and citrus groves were<br />

sold in and around Harlingen and at Adams<br />

Gardens, Rangerville and Stuart Place. The<br />

Arroyo Colorado was dredged. Cotton,<br />

sugarcane, and vegetables were the reasons<br />

for Harlingen’s prosperity. Celebrating this<br />

agricultural bounty, the <strong>Valley</strong> Mid-Winter<br />

Fair began in 1920 and was attracting crowds<br />

of 90,000 by 1950. The Art Deco city<br />

auditorium was built and provided a stage for<br />

luminaries such as Eleanor Roosevelt, Lily<br />

Pons, and Sally Rand.<br />

In the 1920s cotton fields were converted<br />

to residential districts as the city grew. The<br />

Silk Stocking district of fine homes built along<br />

Taylor Street is now part of the Harlingen<br />

Heritage Trail. The swelling population<br />

required more schools, among them the<br />

unique Bowie Elementary School with its<br />

colorful sculpted frieze of snakes, recalling<br />

ancient myths of snakes that embodied<br />

wisdom and knowledge.<br />

Although the 1933 hurricane drowned the<br />

city, and freezes, floods, and Depression bank<br />

failures battered it, Harlingen rebounded. The<br />

city changed forever with the start of World<br />

War II and the creation of an aerial gunner-<br />

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203


training center at Harlingen Army Air Field,<br />

which later became Harlingen Air Force Base.<br />

The Port of Harlingen opened in 1952 and<br />

began barging <strong>Valley</strong> sugar and grain north.<br />

By the city’s fiftieth birthday celebration in<br />

1960, the population was over thirty-eight<br />

thousand. But two years later, Harlingen Air<br />

Force Base closed. With fourteen hundred<br />

vacant houses blighting the economy,<br />

community leaders enticed midwestern<br />

retirees to settle in Harlingen’s subtropical<br />

environment. In one year, the program sold<br />

six hundred houses. Since that time,<br />

Harlingen and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> has been<br />

a magnet for thousands of Winter Texans from<br />

the Midwest and Canada. The community<br />

spirit and volunteerism that resurrected<br />

Harlingen then have kept the city vibrant and<br />

primed for the twenty-first century. Twenty<br />

citizen advisory boards contribute to the<br />

community’s welfare by participating in<br />

decisions about the airport, library, youth<br />

services, community development, planning,<br />

traffic safety and much more.<br />

The North American Free Trade Agreement<br />

stimulated increased economic ties with<br />

Mexico and border businesses for Harlingen<br />

and all of South Texas. The 1993 opening of<br />

the Free Trade International Bridge just south<br />

of the city at Los Indios reaffirmed Harlingen’s<br />

position as the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s transportation<br />

hub and permitted rapid crossing of<br />

goods and passengers between the two countries.<br />

The city’s <strong>Valley</strong> International Airport<br />

offers daily flights by major airlines and<br />

records the most passenger boardings in the<br />

region. It is also the home base of major<br />

express freight and parcel cargo carriers. The<br />

expanded intersection of Highways 77 and 83<br />

foreshadows the arrival of Interstate 69 and<br />

further emphasis on the distribution and<br />

logistics aspects of international trade.<br />

Harlingen’s central location consistently<br />

attracts service and industrial corporations to<br />

its Industrial Parks. Park tenants comprise a<br />

balanced group of industrial components<br />

manufacturer, commercial suppliers, food<br />

processing facilities and industrial services<br />

companies. Agricultural products remain a<br />

significant though lessened part of the economy<br />

with sugarcane, citrus, and grain being<br />

shipped from Harlingen to points north and<br />

into Mexico.<br />

The health services industry is a significant<br />

part of the city’s economy with <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Health System now Harlingen’s largest<br />

employer and with healthcare and related<br />

services destined to play even greater roles in<br />

the future. The Regional Academic Health<br />

Center of The University of Texas Health<br />

Science Center-San Antonio, slated to train<br />

third and fourth year medical students, has<br />

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204


already changed the city’s landscape and outlook.<br />

Additional medical facilities and clinics<br />

are under construction.<br />

Harlingen’s natural resources, particularly<br />

wildlife and habitat, have catapulted the city<br />

into the forefront of eco-tourism. Its <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Birding Festival, founded in<br />

1994, draws birders from all over the world to<br />

see the Great Kiskadee, the official city bird,<br />

along with flocks of red-crowned parrots,<br />

plain chachalacas, and other unique species.<br />

The Arroyo Hike & Bike Trail enables residents<br />

and visitors to bike and walk along the<br />

Arroyo Colorado near the city’s forty acre bird<br />

sanctuary, Harlingen Thicket. The city’s 25<br />

parks and recreation facilities include softball<br />

and soccer fields, tennis courts, swimming<br />

pools, picnic shelters, playgrounds, gardens,<br />

and the Tony Butler Golf Course. The White<br />

Wings baseball team of the Texas-Louisiana<br />

League draws enthusiastic family crowds to<br />

Harlingen Field for the summer season.<br />

Cultural and entertainment options for<br />

Harlingen visitors and residents are numerous.<br />

At Marine Military Academy, the inspiring<br />

Iwo Jima Memorial is in fact the mold<br />

from which the famous statue at Arlington<br />

National Cemetery was cast. Harlingen’s<br />

downtown Jackson Street Antique District<br />

offers a combination of unique shops and<br />

cafes for pleasurable browsing and dining.<br />

Over a dozen murals by local and regional<br />

artists are displayed throughout the city. <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum, Harlingen Art<br />

Forum, the spacious Harlingen Public Library,<br />

and Texas Air Museum in nearby <strong>Rio</strong> Hondo<br />

all enlighten and educate the public with permanent<br />

and rotating exhibitions. Harlingen<br />

Performing Arts Theatre, Harlingen Municipal<br />

Auditorium and numerous event centers present<br />

a diverse array of expositions, concerts,<br />

performances and workshops year-round. <strong>Rio</strong><br />

Fest-the city’s annual arts festival, Jackson<br />

Street Jubilee, and other special events celebrate<br />

the city’s heritage, its resources and its<br />

sub-tropical climate.<br />

Harlingen’s twenty-three elementary and<br />

four middle schools, Keys Academy, and<br />

Harlingen High School and Harlingen High<br />

School South have an enrollment of over<br />

16,900 students and graduate approximately<br />

750 annually. Texas State Technical College-<br />

Harlingen is renown for its technology and<br />

healthcare programs and the customized training<br />

courses it develops for businesses.<br />

Throughout Harlingen’s first ninety years,<br />

its residents have celebrated their city’s past<br />

while enjoying an enviable quality of life in<br />

deep South Texas. As part of their city’s<br />

dynamic future, they anticipate Harlingen<br />

thriving and becoming an even better place to<br />

live, work, visit, and invest.<br />

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CITY OF<br />

MERCEDES AND<br />

ECONOMIC<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

CORPORATION OF<br />

MERCEDES<br />

Located in the heart of the beautiful <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Mercedes is a dynamic<br />

community that offers a variety of opportunities<br />

to business, industry and families. Centrally<br />

located in this dynamic area of South Texas,<br />

Mercedes is ideally situated to attract customers<br />

from all parts of the <strong>Valley</strong> and northern<br />

Mexico. Its business community, residents and<br />

visitors are served by an expanding industrial<br />

park, as well as several new public facilities,<br />

including new schools, new pavilions and<br />

expanded library, with a new police department<br />

also proposed.<br />

Situated just sixty-five miles from South<br />

Padre Island and sixty miles from <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City, Mercedes is, itself, the center of a<br />

bustling economy and natural attractions that<br />

continue to bring new residents and<br />

thousands of visitors. Its proximity to other<br />

cities and attractions is of inestimable value<br />

for business and personal convenience.<br />

Highway mileage figures reveal that Mercedes<br />

is just 10 miles from Harlingen; 20 from<br />

McAllen; 150 from Corpus Christi; 250 from<br />

San Antonio; and only 5 miles away is their<br />

border neighbor, Nuevo Progreso, Mexico.<br />

Mercedes has an annual average<br />

temperature of seventy-two degrees<br />

Fahrenheit, a winter average of fifty, with the<br />

semi-tropical climate featuring short, mild<br />

winters. During the summer months, the<br />

effect of the city’s ninety-seven-degree average<br />

temperature is eased by offshore winds from<br />

the Gulf of Mexico. Annual precipitation<br />

averages eighteen to twenty inches.<br />

Tourism is an important industry, and the<br />

many visitors especially enjoy the luxury and<br />

convenience of traveling and shopping in<br />

Mexico, as displays along the streets of<br />

neighboring Nuevo Progreso blend a festive,<br />

holiday atmosphere with outstanding shopping<br />

opportunities featuring leather goods, clothing,<br />

and fine handmade silver jewelry. Travelers who<br />

plan to go farther into Mexico will reach the<br />

cosmopolitan, high-tech market of Monterrey,<br />

just three hours away, along a recently<br />

constructed express highway.<br />

Mercedes offers a wide variety of<br />

recreational opportunities in an area<br />

described as “a golfer’s paradise” featuring two<br />

eighteen-hole courses of challenging terrain.<br />

Those who prefer the lure of sea and shore<br />

will find a beautiful natural playground at<br />

South Padre Island.<br />

Strong leadership, an aggressive business<br />

environment and a diverse culture, all of which<br />

combine with the strategic location to offer<br />

outstanding commercial opportunities as well<br />

as a warm and welcoming environment for<br />

tourists, enhance the city. With a pro-business<br />

philosophy welcoming the opportunity to meet<br />

the demands of manufacturing and processing<br />

industries, the city accommodates a rapidly<br />

expanding economy and a growing population.<br />

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As a result, Mercedes has become a key<br />

competitor in the region’s economy, offering<br />

access to a highly trainable workforce, as well<br />

as other benefits to attract businesses of all<br />

types. Among the many exciting industrial<br />

development projects available is a fifty-acre<br />

industrial park located off Expressway 83.<br />

Other incentives available to business<br />

and industry include a citywide Enterprise<br />

Zone, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Empowerment<br />

Zone, and a comprehensive incentives policy<br />

offered by the Economic Development<br />

Corporation of Mercedes.<br />

Favorable tax rates and standard<br />

exemptions and credits are other advantages.<br />

Like other Texas areas, Mercedes levies no<br />

state property tax. Local governments and<br />

special taxing districts levy taxes on real and<br />

tangible personal property, based on a<br />

hundred percent assessment ratio. Sales taxes<br />

of 8.25 percent locally and 6.25 percent<br />

statewide are in effect, along with an annual<br />

report franchise of 4.5 percent.<br />

Readily available air, highway, and rail traffic<br />

ensures easy, economical access of production<br />

supplies and the transport of products to other<br />

areas. Mercedes’ own Rebel Field, which has a<br />

thirty-three-hundred-foot paved runway, as<br />

well as commercial service at <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International in Harlingen and McAllen<br />

International, are available for transport and<br />

travel. Airlines serving the area include<br />

Southwest, Continental, and American, as well<br />

as private air and helicopter service. Surface<br />

transportation is via U.S. Highways 83, 281,<br />

and 77; with the nearest Interstate Highways<br />

being IH 37 and IH 35. Union Pacific (MOPAC)<br />

provides rail shipment.<br />

Central Power and Light Company/Magic<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Co-op provides electric power, with<br />

detailed information regarding this service<br />

available from the Mercedes Economic<br />

Development Corporation. Southwestern Bell<br />

provides telecommunications and Southern<br />

Union Gas Company is the gas distributor.<br />

Water, sewer, industrial waste and solid waste<br />

disposal services are all readily available.<br />

Educational and cultural resources for the<br />

employee families of Mercedes’ businesses<br />

and industries are of outstanding quality.<br />

Mercedes was the first city in the <strong>Valley</strong> to<br />

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207


provide public library service. Residents of all<br />

ages have access to numerous public and<br />

private learning institutions that meet a wide<br />

range of educational needs. Of the sixteen<br />

school districts located within the county, the<br />

largest is Mercedes Independent School<br />

District, which serves an enrollment of more<br />

than six thousand. The district’s nine<br />

campuses include five elementaries, one<br />

junior high, and three high schools. With a<br />

student-teacher ratio of twenty-two to one,<br />

Mercedes ISD graduates approximately 362<br />

students annually. The varied course offerings<br />

run the gamut, ranging from vocational<br />

training to special educational programs that<br />

are available in the South Texas High School<br />

for Health Professions and the South Texas<br />

High School for Math and Science.<br />

Abundant facilities for higher education<br />

are also available, including the South Texas<br />

Community College campus in Mercedes. The<br />

University of Texas Pan American, the largest<br />

institution of higher education south of San<br />

Antonio, is just thirty-eight miles away. The<br />

state’s tenth largest university, UT Pan<br />

American has been in operation for seventy<br />

years. Other schools offering advanced<br />

educational opportunities are Texas State<br />

Technical College at Harlingen, ten miles<br />

away; South Texas Vo-Tech at Weslaco, only<br />

one mile from Mercedes; and another campus<br />

of South Texas Community College, located<br />

twenty miles away in McAllen.<br />

A city with a rich history that reaches back<br />

over two hundred years, as well as an attractive<br />

present and even brighter future, Mercedes was<br />

first settled by ranchers before 1780, as part of<br />

the 1790 Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Spanish land grant<br />

issued to Juan Jose Hinojosa de Balli. Ranching<br />

remained important to the area’s economy<br />

through the next century.<br />

In 1904 a local land promoter who owned<br />

forty-five thousand acres cleared a portion of<br />

the property, including the present site of<br />

Mercedes. As part of this project a town was<br />

laid out. First named Capisallo, the name was<br />

later changed to Lonsboro, and finally, after<br />

the company’s sale to the American <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Land and Irrigation Company, was rechristened<br />

Mercedes in 1907, honoring the<br />

wife of Mexican President Porfirio Diaz.<br />

Prospective buyers were brought to the<br />

town, which was the first stop on the Sam<br />

Fordyce Branch of the St. Louis and<br />

Brownsville Railroad.<br />

Although the company aggressively sought<br />

buyers, care was taken to ensure a sound<br />

economy, with stringent rules for<br />

development, including requirements that<br />

business buildings be constructed of stone,<br />

brick or concrete and cost a minimum of<br />

$3,000, and residences cost at least $2,000.<br />

In 1907 and 1908, local farmers began to<br />

realize the potential of the area as an<br />

agricultural mecca, with grape, citrus fruit<br />

and vegetable culture ushering in a new era.<br />

Mercedes produced the first bale of cotton in<br />

the United States for the 1910-1911 season.<br />

By 1914 Mercedes farmers were growing<br />

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alfalfa, okra, squash, parsley, radishes, corn,<br />

beets, carrots, and kohlrabi. The first annual<br />

corn show was held in 1912, by which time<br />

Mercedes shipped large quantities of corn to<br />

Argentina. The Mercedes Corn Mill was<br />

installed in 1914, to grind corn for meal or<br />

chops, as well as grinding oats and other<br />

grains for feed.<br />

In addition to agriculture, many other<br />

factors have contributed to the local economy<br />

at various times in Mercedes’ history. During<br />

World War I, an estimated fifteen thousand<br />

soldiers were stationed nearby at two Army<br />

camps. This may have influenced the 1918<br />

city council’s decision to prohibit speaking of<br />

the German language in any Mercedes school,<br />

or the use of that language in advertising,<br />

preaching, entertaining or lecturing.<br />

Oil was discovered in the Mercedes field in<br />

1935, adding another facet to the economy.<br />

By the early 1950s, Mercedes had become a<br />

marketing center for cotton, vegetables and<br />

livestock, and had attracted such related<br />

industries as meatpacking, box making, and<br />

farm chemical manufacturing. Construction<br />

of a new international bridge at the Progreso<br />

bend of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> boosted tourism and<br />

attracted many “Winter Texans,” who<br />

continue to be of great economic importance.<br />

Among Mercedes’ major employers today<br />

are several companies that have been in<br />

business here for generations. These include<br />

H&H Foods, which has operated here<br />

successfully since 1917, and has positioned<br />

itself on the cutting edge of technology, from<br />

production to distribution of its specialty<br />

meats and prepared foods.<br />

As site of the annual <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Live Stock<br />

Show and Rodeo, Mercedes has several boot<br />

manufacturers, including <strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes<br />

Boot Company, which provides customers<br />

with outstanding handmade boots that meet<br />

the most demanding standards of good looks,<br />

good fit and long life.<br />

Other major employers and their products<br />

include: Chiquita Brands (melons and citrus<br />

products), Queen City Laundry (a uniform<br />

company), Anderson Bean Boot Co., Borden’s<br />

Inc. (dairy products), NSC Corporation<br />

(plastics), C&C Bakery, Inc. (tortillas), HEB<br />

Food Store, Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Company,<br />

Mercedes ISD, Lily of the Desert (Aloe Vera<br />

products), Mrs. Baird’s Bread (baked goods)<br />

and FINSA Development Group.<br />

Cooperating and collaborating at<br />

unprecedented levels, broad segments of the<br />

Mercedes community have come together to<br />

create a community-driven strategic plan<br />

designed to identify key issues, develop a vision,<br />

set goals and determine strategies for pursuing<br />

sustainable development.<br />

The resulting determination, teamwork and<br />

consensus reflects the dreams and values that<br />

make up the “Today and Tomorrow” Strategic<br />

Plan of Mercedes, combining all facets of the<br />

community improvement process.<br />

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CITY OF<br />

MISSION<br />

✧<br />

La Lomita Chapel.<br />

Noted as a winter resort and retirement<br />

area, as well as being the heart of the citrus<br />

industry of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, the City of<br />

Mission is also known as the site of numerous<br />

bicultural tourist attractions, including La<br />

Lomita Mission, the Shary Building, the<br />

Border Theater, <strong>Rio</strong> Theatre (Institute of Art),<br />

and the William Jennings Bryan home.<br />

La Lomita dates back to about 1865, when<br />

the Oblate of Mary Immaculate Fathers,<br />

assisted by Rene Guyard’s ranch hands, built a<br />

small adobe chapel on Guyard’s ranch. A small<br />

adobe house built soon afterward allowed the<br />

priests to rest from their long rides. The chapel<br />

of La Lomita provided an excellent meeting<br />

place for the Fathers, who arrived there<br />

simultaneously to exchange news and letters.<br />

The Oblates continued to visit the chapel<br />

and administer the sacraments for many<br />

years. The adobe building eventually fell victim<br />

to decay, and was demolished about 1885.<br />

In 1889 Fathers Francis Bugnard and<br />

Pescheur, with the help of Lay Brothers Van<br />

Blaer and Curand, built a 16 by 30-foot<br />

chapel over ruins of the old building. Built of<br />

sandstone from the nearby hill, it featured a<br />

double-door front entrance, six windows, and<br />

a side entrance left of the altar.<br />

The mission closed about 1904, and<br />

Oblates moved their activities to the new town<br />

of Mission in 1911, abandoning the old<br />

chapel. Restoration efforts were undertaken in<br />

1928, as a tribute to past missionary work and<br />

as a shrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe. A room<br />

was added, and an old statue of St. Joseph and<br />

a picture of Our Lady of Guadalupe were<br />

obtained. Work continued slowly until 1933,<br />

when a hurricane damaged the chapel and<br />

grounds. The Texas Centennial observance in<br />

1936 brought another restoration effort,<br />

allowing public access to the chapel that year.<br />

In 1949 the Oblates of Mary Immaculate<br />

celebrated the first 100 years of missionary work<br />

in Texas, with La Lomita among the old chapels<br />

along the river to be rebuilt, though the rectory<br />

and other buildings were beyond salvaging.<br />

Restoration of the outbuildings was<br />

proposed in 1958 as a joint civic and religious<br />

effort, with plans based on a 1909 photo of the<br />

mission station. The La Lomita Mission and<br />

Park Corporation were created to restore and<br />

preserve the station, and to operate a public<br />

park there. This group has made some<br />

improvements and has provided for general<br />

upkeep of the shrine, though much remains to<br />

be done.<br />

The chapel is presently in good repair, the<br />

fenced property is well kept, picnic tables are<br />

provided nearby, and a new statue of the Blessed<br />

Virgin Mary is located behind the chapel.<br />

A Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Survey Committee<br />

plaque on the chapel’s facade reads:<br />

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“First chapel, 1865; Present Chapel, 1889.<br />

Headquarters 1865-1904 for missionary<br />

Oblate Fathers in Hidalgo County.”<br />

The fifty-five-year-old Shary Building, once<br />

the center of land sales, irrigation, and canal<br />

work, the citrus industry in South Texas, and<br />

numerous other commercial enterprises, now<br />

houses offices of the City of Mission. John J.<br />

Conway and John H. Shary, the two men most<br />

closely associated with Mission’s development,<br />

successively had their headquarters here. Shary,<br />

the father of commercial citrus development in<br />

the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> was chairman of<br />

the board that completed the inland waterway<br />

to Brownsville from Corpus Christi. He owned<br />

and sold more than 50,000 acres of <strong>Valley</strong> land<br />

for an average of $50 per acre, and with an<br />

associate, also developed and sold an even<br />

larger area west of Corpus Christi.<br />

The two-story, Spanish-style Shary Building,<br />

was designed by Harvey P. Smith, a San Antonio<br />

architect, with much of the architectural<br />

engineering on the site done by H. H. Ewing,<br />

the United Irrigation chief engineer. The 64-by<br />

-68-foot building was constructed of white<br />

Bondexed brick with white stone trimming, a<br />

red tile roof, and floors of tile over concrete.<br />

Plans for the building were announced<br />

December 2, 1938, with the expressed hope of<br />

starting construction by December 20, but<br />

ground was not broken until January 20. The<br />

building contract went to Shary’s good friend, J.<br />

E. Walsh of Walsh Lumber Company, and<br />

required 150 days, rather than the ninety days<br />

originally estimated. It succeeded the old<br />

Mission Canal Office, which housed the<br />

Conway-Hoit organization from 1907-15, and<br />

was then headquarters for the Shary businesses.<br />

The older building, which was adjacent to the<br />

new, remained until after the Shary Building’s<br />

completion, to allow various company officers<br />

to make a single move.<br />

After its dedication on June 22, 1939, the<br />

building housed the offices of several Shary<br />

companies. John H. Shary’s private office on<br />

the second floor was next to the general office<br />

of the Shary-Maddox Company. Downstairs<br />

were Texas Citrus Fruit Growers Exchange<br />

and Shary Products Company.<br />

The building was purchased by the City of<br />

Mission from former Texas Governor Allen<br />

Shivers and his wife, Marialice Shary Shivers,<br />

in 1960, fifteen years after Shary’s death. With<br />

the exception of one major addition—the city<br />

hall meeting room constructed in 1979 under<br />

the administration of Mayor Arnaldo<br />

Ramirez—the building’s exterior remains<br />

much as it was in 1938.<br />

The Border Theater in Mission, noted for<br />

its decorative artwork, features murals<br />

depicting the bicultural heritage of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. This is the fifth and most<br />

beautiful movie house to be built by Mr. and<br />

Mrs. R.N. Smith, pioneer <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

theater owners.<br />

One of the Border Theater’s mural depicts<br />

typical Mexican figures with homes<br />

untouched by the arrival of settlers from the<br />

✧<br />

Top: Shary Building/City Hall.<br />

Above: The William Jennings Bryan home.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

211


✧<br />

Above: Border Theatre.<br />

Below: <strong>Rio</strong> Theatre.<br />

north. The other portrays covered wagons<br />

weaving toward a crude little mission near the<br />

border, a copyrighted scene of The Santa Fe,<br />

New Mexico, Weavers of McCropssen<br />

Manufacturing Company, which gave<br />

permission for its use in the mural<br />

Thanks to ingenious craftsmanship, simulated<br />

lampposts spaced along the mural walls,<br />

project “black” light from lanterns, even when<br />

the auditorium is darkened for a movie. This<br />

brings into prominent relief the three-dimensional<br />

principal figures, which have been<br />

brushed with fluorescent paint. E. Risser, a<br />

Dallas artist known for theater decoration<br />

throughout the Southwest, who worked with<br />

the King Scenic Company of Dallas, created<br />

the murals. Similar murals were painted in an<br />

Alice theater, which is no longer in existence.<br />

The Border Theater, designed by architect<br />

William J. Moore of Dallas, accommodated<br />

500 patrons on the auditorium’s ground floor<br />

and 240 in the balcony. A fifteen-ton air<br />

conditioner cooled the entire building,<br />

including not only the auditorium and<br />

second-floor offices for the Smiths’ five<br />

theaters, but also two apartments and Foster’s<br />

Jewelry Store. Separate units cooled another<br />

store and Dr. Ottis Walker’s clinic.<br />

At the formal opening of the theater on<br />

April 3, 1942, John H. Drake, manager of the<br />

Mission Chamber of Commerce, was emcee.<br />

Mission Mayor Logan Duncan and Chamber<br />

President D. W. Cott offered congratulations;<br />

and theater Manager J. S. Thompson, general<br />

contractor George Holiday, and a phalanx of<br />

subcontractors were recognized.<br />

In 1952 the movie screen was enlarged to<br />

show Cinemascope films. Television’s<br />

popularity in the 1950s led Smith to begin<br />

selling off his theaters. Estell Theaters<br />

purchased the Border, which was sold later to<br />

Stanley Warner Theaters, then to Theater<br />

Management Corporation of Dallas. About<br />

1978 Hector Garza of Mission and his aunt,<br />

Concepcion Gavilan of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City,<br />

bought the theater and operated it until early<br />

1992. Long-time local managers were Gus<br />

Hoenschied and Baldemar Guttierez.<br />

Mr. and Mrs. Bill Long purchased the<br />

building in 1995. It still stands at 905 North<br />

Conway, Mission, as a monument to its<br />

builders and subsequent owners, remaining<br />

in very nearly the same condition as when it<br />

was opened.<br />

Mission’s <strong>Rio</strong> Theatre, which began as a brick<br />

building called Teatro La Paz (Peace Theater),<br />

has proud history in unification and enrichment<br />

of the city’s Mexican Americans, reflecting the<br />

community’s bicultural character. Many families<br />

who came to the area from Mexico during the<br />

Mexican Revolution of 1910, as well as those<br />

who remained on their land when this part of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

212


Tamaulipas became a part of the United States in<br />

1848, utilized facilities of the Teatro La Paz to<br />

continue their artistic expression.<br />

Distinguished visitors from Mexico and<br />

others in exile in Texas, included Jose<br />

Vasconcelos, later Mexico’s minister of education;<br />

Nemecio Garcia Naranjo, historian, journalist<br />

and playwright; Jose Manrique, political figure<br />

and governor of Tamaulipas, Mexico, presented<br />

lectures on a wide variety of subjects.<br />

Juan Bautista Barbera, a bricklayer by<br />

trade, who emigrated in 1905 from Miravet,<br />

near Tarragon, Catalan, Spain, to Brownsville,<br />

built the theater. Barbera first built a frame<br />

theater, the Concordia, and then constructing<br />

La Paz, the theater for which he would best be<br />

remembered. In later years he added the<br />

adjacent buildings, and tried his hand at a<br />

variety of enterprises, including operation of a<br />

drug store, bowling alley, and pool hall.<br />

During the Depression, the building was used<br />

to deliver food to needy families.<br />

In 1981 recollections, 101-year-old Mission<br />

pioneer Tiburcio Femat mentioned the theater’s<br />

outside balcony from which the grito was given<br />

on the eve of Mexico’s Independence Day. The<br />

16th of September Fiesta Queen was crowned<br />

here, young ladies of the community were<br />

presented in concert, and a Mexican poet was<br />

recognized in a velada of his poems.<br />

Felipe Garza, who lived across the street<br />

from the theater, remembered graceful arches<br />

at its entrance, and many performances<br />

presented there in its heyday. Other Mission<br />

residents recalled programs featuring<br />

traveling artists from Spain and Mexico,<br />

classic plays, such as Don Juan Tenorio, La<br />

Llorona, and Malditas Sean Las Muieres. On<br />

special nights dedicated to the artists, the<br />

audience brought gifts showing their affection<br />

and appreciation.<br />

During the silent film era, Barbera obtained<br />

movies from Unique Film Service in Houston,<br />

with the 1916 theater equipment including a<br />

ten-horsepower Douglas gas engine, a dynamo,<br />

a five-kilowatt Edison moving picture machine<br />

and 250 theater chairs.<br />

In 1945 Enrique Flores, Sr., bought the theater,<br />

and changed the name to <strong>Rio</strong> Theater. He<br />

and his wife operated it for many years, willing<br />

it and the adjacent buildings to Enrique Flores<br />

Jr. for continued operation as a theater and art<br />

center. The Xochil Art Institute, a non-profit<br />

organization, was formed, but dissolved after<br />

the death of the two artists most closely associated<br />

with the building. Today La Paz is a cultural<br />

center, housing a restaurant, art gallery,<br />

and theater performances.<br />

The William Jennings Bryan winter home<br />

at Mission is another of the sites of historical<br />

interest. Bryan, a three-time presidential<br />

candidate (1896, 1900, and 1908) and wellknown<br />

celebrity, came to Mission as part of a<br />

promotional plan by developers John J.<br />

Conway and John Closner to attract northern<br />

and Midwestern farmers to the area.<br />

Conway gave Bryan, who was an old<br />

friend, 160 acres of land located several miles<br />

northeast of Mission, on which Bryan built a<br />

winter home in which he resided during two<br />

winters. The promotion, which was designed<br />

to garner publicity, was apparently successful,<br />

as a number of regional newspapers published<br />

stories and photos of the gift.<br />

After his appointment by President<br />

Woodrow Wilson as Secretary of State in<br />

1913, Bryan, who was not wealthy, sold the<br />

home in order to buy a residence near<br />

Washington, D.C. Following his resignation<br />

from public service, he retired to Florida.<br />

✧<br />

Father Roy Snipes, OMI, and his<br />

dog Magna with La Lomita Chapel in<br />

the background.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

213


TOWN OF<br />

SOUTH PADRE<br />

ISLAND<br />

From the Queen Isabella Causeway arching<br />

over the Laguna Madre, visitors to South<br />

Padre Island see a paradise stretched before<br />

them like a pot of white gold. Cradled<br />

between the Gulf of Mexico and the bay, the<br />

subtropical barrier island has welcomed<br />

shipwrecked Spanish explorers, pioneer<br />

ranchers and pirates. Today palm-fringed<br />

South Padre welcomes families and friends for<br />

fun-filled year-round vacations. The Island’s<br />

resort hotels and family condos, upscale<br />

restaurants and fast food havens, unique<br />

boutiques and miles of pristine beaches add<br />

to the magic of South Texas’ mild, dry winters<br />

and balmy summers.<br />

On South Padre, there’s time to build sand<br />

castles, seek sea shells, dine out, explore sand<br />

dunes and indulge in dozens of other island<br />

past times. Nothing in the world can compare<br />

to the heaven of lounging under a beach<br />

umbrella, soothed by the sound of waves<br />

touching the shore.<br />

To show its commitment to having all<br />

visitors relax and enjoy themselves, the Town<br />

of South Padre Island has made it illegal to<br />

wear a tie on the Island.<br />

The first inhabitants of South Padre Island<br />

were nomadic Karankawa Indians. In 1519<br />

Spanish explorer Alonso de Piñeda named the<br />

one-half mile wide island Isla Blanca. Over the<br />

next three hundred years, Spanish fleets laden<br />

with gold and silver from Mexican mines<br />

occasionally sank during storms off the coast,<br />

leaving castaways on the island and riches<br />

strewn along the beach. Even today after a<br />

storm, flotsam of long-ago shipwrecks washes<br />

ashore or is uncovered by waves. Those<br />

treasure galleons plying the Gulf attracted<br />

pirates from many nations. Legend has it that<br />

ships of the notorious Jean Lafitte made<br />

landfall on the island and the pirates buried<br />

treasure chests which have never been found.<br />

In 1804 Padre José Nicolas Ballí received<br />

the island as a land grant from King Charles<br />

IV of Spain and established the first settlement.<br />

He is the “Padre” the island’s name honors<br />

and his statue greets visitors at the foot of<br />

the causeway. In 1861 early island resident<br />

John Singer, of the sewing machine family,<br />

buried $62,000 in coins and jewelry on the<br />

Rancho Santa Fe before he fled from the<br />

advancing Confederate army. When the<br />

Singers returned in 1865, shifting sand had<br />

erased all traces of their treasure trove.<br />

Somewhere on the island, a sand dune still<br />

protects the long-lost Money Hill.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

214


For the next century the island’s only<br />

visitors arrived by private boat or the ferry<br />

from Port Isabel. In 1973 the township of<br />

South Padre Island was incorporated and the<br />

first causeway was built connecting the<br />

mainland to island playground.<br />

The island slowly added lodgings and now<br />

offers hundreds of hotel rooms and over<br />

4,000 condominium units so there is<br />

something to suit everyone’s lifestyle and<br />

budget. The Island has won the People’s<br />

Choice Award for the Best Vacation Value in<br />

Texas. Restaurants for fine dining or just a<br />

quick bite provide a taste of fresh Gulf shrimp<br />

and the bay’s bounty of flounder. With<br />

Mexico only twenty-five miles away, authentic<br />

south of the border dishes enliven many<br />

menus. Island shops stocked with beach<br />

essentials, trinkets and marvels help draw<br />

ever more Padre-devotees, who now number<br />

over three million annually. But for all its<br />

popularity, South Padre can often feel like a<br />

private getaway whether visitors are staying<br />

in luxurious penthouses, cozy beach cottages<br />

or camping at Andy Bowie County Park.<br />

Stretching north of town, twenty-nine miles<br />

of sand dunes covered by beach plums and<br />

waving oat grass are inhabited only by turtles,<br />

shore birds, lizards and a few coyotes. With<br />

the surf curling on the east and the bay<br />

lapping on the west, South Padre’s dunes are<br />

perfect for private walks, surf casting,<br />

swimming or playing at castaway.<br />

Wildlife has its own South Padre Island<br />

paradise at the Laguna Madre Nature Trail,<br />

next to the Convention Centre. The fifteenhundred-foot<br />

boardwalk crosses four acres of<br />

wetlands giving visitors the opportunity to<br />

view over three hundred species of birds, like<br />

the startling pink roseate spoonbill along with<br />

herons, kingfishers and a resident alligator.<br />

The nearby Warbler Rest Stop attracts<br />

migratory birds and butterflies. Rare<br />

Peregrine falcons can often be spotted high<br />

on condo roofs, looking for prey while brown<br />

and white pelicans patrol the shallow bay.<br />

Dolphins love South Padre, too. They are seen<br />

regularly near the jetties in Isla Blanca Park,<br />

diving and leaping in family groups. Ecocruises<br />

and dolphin watching trips provide<br />

close-ups at the sleek swimmers.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

215


✧<br />

Above: World-class fishing attracts<br />

thousands to South Padre Island each year.<br />

Below: Dune buggies are a popular way to<br />

see the sights of South Padre Island.<br />

Ila Loetscher founded Sea Turtle, Inc., dedicated<br />

to the conservation of endangered sea<br />

turtles on South Padre in 1977. The Turtle<br />

Lady for years presented educational shows<br />

featuring Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles that she<br />

had rescued and the organization continues<br />

those presentations. The University of Texas-<br />

Pan American’s Coastal Studies Lab and its<br />

displays of starfish and crabs and sea life is<br />

open to the public for viewing and touching<br />

inside Isla Blanca Park.<br />

World-class fishing attracts thousands to<br />

the Island. From the jetties, piers, and the<br />

beach and from party boats and private<br />

offshore charters, fishing South Padre<br />

presents an endless array of challenges for<br />

more than sixty years. The five-day Texas<br />

International Fishing Tournament has been a<br />

friendly fishing competition with bay, offshore<br />

and tarpon divisions. More than twelve<br />

hundred anglers cast their eyes on the prizes<br />

for landing redfish, flounder, sea trout,<br />

snapper, grouper, marlin, tarpon, and sailfish.<br />

Drifting through the shallow bay of the<br />

Laguna Madre, anglers sight fish for speckled<br />

trout and redfish in the crystal clear water,<br />

and are able to set down a lure or fly right in<br />

front of the fish. The Laguna reportedly has<br />

more fish per acre than any other Texas bay.<br />

The Ladies Kingfish Tournament in August<br />

brings in competitors eager to try their skill<br />

and luck on the Island’s impressive game fish.<br />

Spectator sports include watching local<br />

shrimp trawlers and fishing vessels pass through<br />

the ship channel next to Isla Blanca Park.<br />

Water adventures include windsurfing,<br />

banana boat rides, hobie cat, and catamaran<br />

charters, sail boating, jet ski and wave runner<br />

rentals, parasailing and fishing. Lessons and<br />

equipment are available for these sports as<br />

well as for scuba and snorkeling. Sunset<br />

cruises on the bay can be the perfect ending to<br />

a perfect day.<br />

On land, the thrills of water parks,<br />

miniature golf, and go-kart runs amuse and<br />

entertain all ages. To move on down Padre<br />

Boulevard, rent a surrey, bicycles, roller blades,<br />

scooter, make tracks with a beach buggy or<br />

hop The Wave, the Island’s free trolley. For a<br />

back to nature sensation, sign up for a<br />

horseback ride down the beach in the early<br />

morning, at mid-day or at sunset. The South<br />

Padre Island Golf Club at Laguna Vista features<br />

challenging terrain on an eighteen-hole par 72<br />

championship course. Brownsville and Rancho<br />

Viejo also have public golf courses.<br />

Sand Castle Days in October celebrate the<br />

artistry and the fun of sand. Festivals are<br />

frequent on South Padre. Catch the Windsurf<br />

Blowout, the Kite Festival, the Bike Fest and<br />

Motorcycle Rally, and beach volleyball<br />

tournaments. The Ruff Rider Regatta sets sail<br />

every summer, racing north from South<br />

Padre. Over the causeway in Port Isabel, the<br />

Championship Shrimp Cook-off along with<br />

the Lighthouse Park and historic museums<br />

are all closely tied to the Island’s present<br />

and past.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

216


The South Padre Island Convention Centre<br />

is a destination in itself with the colorful sea<br />

life mural, Wyland Whaling Wall No. 53. The<br />

Centre hosts body building competitions, arts<br />

and crafts exhibitions, trade shows and<br />

conferences, reunions, conventions and<br />

market days.<br />

For years South Padre Island has been a<br />

Spring Break mecca for students from the U.S.<br />

and Canada.<br />

Fireworks over the bay on summer nights<br />

add to the already festive mood of the Island.<br />

After watching fireworks or equally<br />

spectacular sunsets over the Laguna Madre,<br />

visitors head to colorful nightspots for music<br />

and dancing. The lively bars and restaurants,<br />

both bayside and beach side, include Island<br />

institutions like Scampis, Blackbeards, South<br />

Padre Brew Pub, and Louie’s Backyard with<br />

bungee jumping.<br />

The Island’s only historic building, the Old<br />

Coast Guard Station, boasts a distinctive New<br />

England-style look out tower. The building is<br />

now the home of the South Padre Island<br />

Center offering academic and personal<br />

enrichment classes through the University of<br />

Texas-Brownsville/Texas Southmost College.<br />

Mexico and the Mercado Juarez in<br />

Matamoros are only thirty minutes away from<br />

the Island. Other nearby attractions include<br />

the Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge,<br />

only ten miles away, and Gladys Porter Zoo in<br />

Brownsville. The Coastal Current, Island Times,<br />

Port Isabel-South Padre Press, and the South<br />

Padre Parade are guides to entertainment and<br />

events, cafés, and clubs.<br />

The Island is just a short drive from <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport (Harlingen) and<br />

Brownsville/South Padre Island International<br />

Airport. That makes it easy to come to South<br />

Padre for a night, a week, a month, or a lifetime.<br />

Yes, it’s easy to get to South Padre, but<br />

it’s very hard to leave.<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Fireworks over the Laguna Madre.<br />

Top, right: South Padre Island is the host of<br />

the Bike Fest and Motorcycle Rally.<br />

Below: The Wyland Whaling Wall No. 53<br />

mural on the side of the South Padre Island<br />

Convention Center.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

217


CITY OF<br />

MCALLEN<br />

✧<br />

Above: McAllen’s celebrated school district,<br />

its city-sponsored youth programs and safe<br />

environment make the city very popular for<br />

families. Children will soon have even more<br />

opportunities for fun as more libraries and<br />

parks are built.<br />

Below: International commuters cross over<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> on the McAllen-Hidalgo-<br />

Reynosa Bridge. McAllen’s ties to Reynosa<br />

run deep and especially strong in the<br />

business area. Residents from both sides<br />

drive each way with regularity.<br />

McAllen, the geographic center of the third<br />

fastest-growing metropolitan area in the country,<br />

is a modern city teeming with business<br />

that moves at a frenzied pace.<br />

However, its trademark tall, majestic palm<br />

trees remind you that McAllen is also a warmweather<br />

center for nature, brimming with<br />

tropical plants and animals that can only be<br />

found in this area of the country.<br />

More than 250,000 people from a twocounty,<br />

two-nation region pack into the city’s<br />

limits every day to go to work, schools, hospitals<br />

and governmental offices. McAllen is THE<br />

commercial and transportation hub of the<br />

region. The city’s airport, expressways, and<br />

new bus station get people from one place to<br />

another. McAllen is also headquarters for many<br />

regional business and governmental entities.<br />

As the retail center of South Texas and<br />

Northern Mexico, McAllen draws from a<br />

consumer base of over ten million people to<br />

its shopping plazas and restaurants. It has led<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in new construction for<br />

years and offers an exceptionally low tax rate<br />

for a city its size, while still providing a high<br />

level of city services.<br />

The city has become a favorite for families<br />

relocating to the <strong>Valley</strong>. Current estimates<br />

show McAllen to have a population of about<br />

111,000, up almost 30,000 from ten years<br />

ago. Many chose McAllen for its employment,<br />

business and shopping opportunities, but the<br />

region’s weather is definitely a plus.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s mild climate—winter temperatures<br />

are generally in the 70s and 80s, with occasional<br />

drops to the 40s—allows outdoor<br />

living throughout the year. Moderate humidity<br />

and a constant breeze make a McAllen tradition,<br />

outdoor grilling, enjoyable. The city has just<br />

embarked on an aggressive parks plan that will<br />

provide a total of 3,000 acres of new parkland,<br />

some of which will have hike and bike trails.<br />

An amazing variety of ecosystems exist in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>; with many plant and wildlife<br />

species found nowhere else in the United<br />

States. These include 115 species of unique<br />

animals, such as the city’s official bird, the<br />

Green Jay. McAllen is located just five miles<br />

north of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

Because of its location on a system of migration<br />

routes, the McAllen area is a veritable<br />

paradise for bird watchers, while the recorded<br />

history dating back almost three centuries<br />

makes this area a haven for history buffs as well.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

218


Some points of interest include:<br />

• The Quinta Mazatlan, one of the largest<br />

remaining adobe homes in Texas. This<br />

sixty-five-year-old Spanish-style mansion,<br />

which is located on the south side<br />

of the city, includes a 10,000 square-foot<br />

home and surrounding eight acres of<br />

luscious greenery owned by the city. It<br />

will soon become a satellite of the World<br />

Birding Center.<br />

• The McAllen International Museum, featuring<br />

art and science exhibits: The only<br />

major art space in South Texas, it is currently<br />

raising funds for a $5 million expansion<br />

project that will include a children’s<br />

wing and Hispanic art gallery. The MIM<br />

was also chosen to have access to the<br />

Smithsonian Institute’s exhibits, one of<br />

only a handful of museums in the country<br />

chosen for that honor.<br />

• Bill Schupp Park: One of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s most<br />

popular parks, its twenty-two palm-framed<br />

acres are often filled with children hanging<br />

on playground equipment and healthy residents<br />

walking or running its trails.<br />

• The Casa De Palmas Hotel, one of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s truly beautiful buildings: Originally<br />

built in 1918, this Spanish-style building<br />

is laced with arched walkways and has<br />

a stunning tiled courtyard lined with<br />

palms. The Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission<br />

has designated the hotel as an official<br />

historical landmark.<br />

• La Plaza Mall, the largest shopping mall<br />

south of San Antonio: With 150 stores,<br />

including one of the largest Dillard’s stores<br />

in the country, this mall is undertaking a<br />

three-phase expansion and renovation.<br />

Downtown McAllen is one of a few thriving<br />

downtowns in the state. This revitalized<br />

area—with new wide sidewalks and bricked<br />

street intersections—is a favorite shopping<br />

area among local and Mexican bargain<br />

hunters. The McAllen Street Market is held<br />

here during the spring.<br />

A busy calendar of events attracts residents<br />

and visitors. This includes two of the city’s<br />

signature events: the Candlelight Posada, a<br />

traditional Mexican Christmas celebration<br />

held at Archer Park in downtown, and the<br />

Fourth of July Parade. Also drawing thousands<br />

are the Texas Square Dance Jamboree in<br />

February and the Texas Tropics Nature<br />

Festival held in April.<br />

✧<br />

Above: McAllen may be the only place in<br />

the country that’s in perpetual motion.<br />

Construction on commercial buildings and<br />

homes is almost non-stop. McAllen is the<br />

third-fastest growing metro area in the<br />

country.<br />

Below: For decades McAllen has been a hub<br />

for “Winter Texans,” mostly Midwesterners<br />

and Canadians who live in the <strong>Valley</strong> for<br />

several months each year. One of their most<br />

popular leisure events is square dancing.<br />

McAllen annually hosts the largest square<br />

dance lesson in the world.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

219


✧<br />

Above: The Majestic Quinta Mazatlan sits<br />

on eight acres of tropical paradise in South<br />

McAllen. The City recently bought the<br />

Spanish-styled house, and it will soon<br />

become part of the World Birding Center.<br />

Below: McAllen at the turn of the century. A<br />

few businesses and homes sprout up in what<br />

is now downtown McAllen. The lonely horse<br />

and wagon travel along what is now U.S.<br />

Business 83, one of the busiest roads in<br />

South Texas.<br />

Accurately described as “a color-splashed<br />

subtropical garden nestled in the rich history<br />

and tradition of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,” McAllen<br />

offers scores of attractions for the enjoyment of<br />

winter Texans and vacationers. They are advised<br />

to allow plenty of time to enjoy the enticements<br />

of Mexico, including shops and markets featuring<br />

jewelry, ceramics, hand-woven fabrics,<br />

hand-blown glass, and other unique creations of<br />

skilled Mexican craftspeople.<br />

Reynosa, McAllen’s sister city located just<br />

across the border, is now a modern metropolis<br />

of 750,000, with many fine restaurants and<br />

dozens of international manufacturers. Those<br />

who prefer not to drive their car into Mexico<br />

can park it for a modest fee on the U.S. side<br />

and walk across the bridge to visit shops and<br />

restaurants within a block or two of the crossing,<br />

and the main plaza only a few blocks away.<br />

The natural blending of cultures and countries<br />

that has developed here has been a vital ingredient<br />

in the development of business relationships<br />

between the United States and Mexico on<br />

a daily basis. The city is home to over 100<br />

maquiladoras, mostly foreign-run, manufacturing<br />

plants that employ tens of thousands.<br />

The history of McAllen and its surrounding<br />

area began in the 1740s with the establishment<br />

of the first organized settlements in the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> area, mostly on the south side of<br />

the river. Reynosa was founded in 1749, with<br />

a mission dedicated to San Joaquin.<br />

The city of McAllen is named for John<br />

McAllen, who arrived in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in the early 1850s. When the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad reached his<br />

ranch, McAllen and others established a town<br />

site now known as West McAllen. Two years<br />

later other developers started a town on their<br />

own tract, naming it East McAllen. It was<br />

incorporated as the City of McAllen in 1911,<br />

and chartered as a home rule city in 1927.<br />

Rapid growth and a reputation as a favorite<br />

winter tourist resort followed the opening of<br />

the first international bridge to Reynosa in<br />

1926, followed by other international bridges<br />

in subsequent years.<br />

An oil boom, completion of Falcon Dam in<br />

Starr County, the FAA designation of an international<br />

airport at McAllen, and the shipment<br />

of vegetables and citrus were all important to<br />

the city’s continued growth in the mid-twentieth<br />

century. The last half of the century<br />

brought numerous cultural, health care and<br />

governmental building improvements, the passage<br />

of NAFTA, creation of South Texas<br />

Community College (with a present enrollment<br />

of over 10,000), highway construction, and<br />

many additions to the retail business sector.<br />

With the help of the McAllen Economic<br />

Development Corporation, over 2,500 jobs<br />

were recruited to the area in 1999, and that has<br />

been instrumental to making the McAllen MSA<br />

the third-fastest-growing area in the country.<br />

Job growth has also aided in McAllen’s recent<br />

ranking as the country’s eighteenth best place<br />

to live, among cities of all sizes.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

220


GREATER<br />

MISSION<br />

CHAMBER OF<br />

COMMERCE<br />

Spanish Captain José Antonio Cantu<br />

assisted José de Escandon in establishing<br />

Reynosa in 1745 and received the La Lomita<br />

land grant. Beginning in 1848, Missionary<br />

Oblates of Mary Immaculate rode from<br />

Rancho La Lomita to visit their flock on 285<br />

ranches. Padres Bugnard and Pescheur built a<br />

tiny chapel on the Rancho in 1865. The<br />

missionaries inherited the ranch from Rene<br />

Guyard in 1871 but sold most the property to<br />

John J. Conway about thirty years later.<br />

Conway and his partner, James W. Hoit,<br />

constructed an irrigation district and built a<br />

train depot along the railroad tracks, about<br />

four miles north of the mission. In 1908<br />

Mission incorporated and the first post office<br />

opened. By 1910 numerous immigrants<br />

fleeing the Mexican Revolution were settling<br />

in the city. <strong>Historic</strong>al plaques in Mission mark<br />

early businesses and homes including the<br />

1915 drug store of Dr. A. J. J. Austin.<br />

Plunging into citrus production on his arrival<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, John H. Shary planted<br />

the region’s first commercial citrus orchard in<br />

Mission in 1915. He built a citrus packing plant,<br />

organized the Texas Citrus Growers Exchange, a<br />

production and marketing association, and<br />

became known as the Father of the Texas Citrus<br />

Industry. Land parties continued to arrive,<br />

buying small tracts of farmland.<br />

Along with abundant harvests, early<br />

Mission residents had much to talk about. In<br />

1915 Mexican irregulars raided the Ojo de<br />

Agua Ranch southwest of Mission, leading to<br />

a brief gun battle. Teatro de la Paz presented<br />

famous Spanish and Mexican lecturers and<br />

artists and silent films.<br />

Today Mission’s forty-six thousand residents<br />

celebrate their colorful bi-cultural history. With<br />

the charm and hospitality of an energetic small<br />

town and the amenities of a larger city, Mission<br />

remains a citrus packing and processing center.<br />

For over sixty years in Mission the Texas Citrus<br />

Fiesta has combined fun and elegance in three<br />

days of citrus events and displays. Mission’s<br />

wealth of ecotourism resources include Bentsen-<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> State Park, World Birding<br />

Center headquarters (2003), assuring unique<br />

bird watching opportunities. Mission’s annual<br />

Texas Butterfly Festival has led to plans for a<br />

one-hundred-acre Butterfly Park.<br />

Honored native sons include Dallas<br />

Cowboy Coach Tom Landry; U.S. Senator<br />

Lloyd Bentsen, Jr.; U.S. Congressman Kika de<br />

la Garza; baseball great Leonardo “Leo Najo”<br />

Alaniz; and Congressional Medal of Honor<br />

recipient Sergeant Jose M. Lopez.<br />

Mission’s progressive vision has created<br />

master-planned communities and friendly<br />

neighborhoods, excellent medical, educational,<br />

and recreational facilities. Winter Texans,<br />

ecotourists, residents, and businesses come to<br />

the city to savor the culture, climate, color, and<br />

charm that is Mission.<br />

For more information, please visit<br />

www.missionchamber.com.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Downtown Mission, c. 1921. This<br />

photograph was taken looking south down<br />

Conway Avenue.<br />

Below: La Lomita Mission, built in 1865, is<br />

the namesake for the city of Mission.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

221


CITY OF<br />

DONNA<br />

✧<br />

Above: The townsite of Donna, 1911.<br />

Below: A strawberry farm near Donna,<br />

mid-1940.<br />

Along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> prior to 1900, dense<br />

ebony, huisache and mesquite thickets of the<br />

Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> were interrupted only by a handful<br />

of self-sustaining ranches: Azadores, Toluca,<br />

Pajarito, and Thomas Hardy’s. Connected by<br />

senderos, or trails, these ranches had evolved<br />

from the 1834 La Blanca land grant to Lino<br />

Cavazos and the 1731 Llano <strong>Grande</strong> grant to<br />

Juan José Hinojosa. Some ranches had a teacher,<br />

most had a cemetery, but all of them had<br />

adapted to an environment where deer, javelina,<br />

and jaguars crept between the cactus and brushy<br />

thickets. People and local trade goods crossed<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> on the Salinas family ferry.<br />

In 1898 A. F. Hester, Sr., T. J. Hooks, Dr. G.<br />

W. Collier, W. W. Cruse, and W. H. Turner,<br />

decided a strip of rich delta land four miles<br />

wide at the river and stretching eighteen miles<br />

north was well suited for agriculture. Due to<br />

complications over land titles, it was 1902<br />

before the group purchased 23,745 acres of the<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> and La Blanca grants, paying<br />

$1.25 and $2 per acre, much cheaper than<br />

tracts downriver.<br />

The new owners transferred most of the<br />

property to their La Blanca Agricultural<br />

Company. After installing irrigation pumps on<br />

the river in 1902 and digging canals, La Blanca<br />

advertised the land for settlement to mid-western<br />

farmers, who marveled at the area’s growing<br />

climate and resources. The first wave of farmers<br />

joined early Hispanic residents and bought land<br />

near the river along Military Highway in an area<br />

known as the Runn Settlement. The irrigation<br />

company became the first in the <strong>Valley</strong> to allow<br />

farmers to buy into the irrigation system.<br />

In 1904, persuaded by the conveyance of<br />

1,600 acres from La Blanca, the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville & Missouri Railroad spur passed<br />

through the future town site of Donna. In<br />

1907, the new train depot was named after<br />

postmistress Donna Hooks Fletcher, daughter<br />

of city developer, T. J. Hooks, while a nearby<br />

settlement was called Beatriz, honoring<br />

another Hooks daughter. The deed for the first<br />

lot of Donna town site was issued in 1908 and<br />

Ed Ruthven opened Donna’s first general store.<br />

By 1908 the renamed La Donna Canal Co.<br />

was irrigating 25,000 acres. Having the railroad<br />

in Donna meant vegetables and berries could be<br />

shipped to eager markets from surrounding<br />

farms. The Donna depot shipped thirty-five<br />

carloads of vegetables that year, more than any<br />

other station on the rail line.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

222


But when the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>’s biggest known<br />

flood in 1909 submerged homes and even<br />

telegraph poles in the Runn Settlement, most<br />

families moved six miles north to Donna and<br />

East Donna. The new town flourished like the<br />

cucumbers in surrounding fields. The yellow<br />

adobe brick Plaza Hotel complete with hitching<br />

posts opened, as did Ed Jamerson’s tin-ceilinged<br />

Borderland Hardware. As the highest point in<br />

the mid-<strong>Valley</strong>, the hotel hosted crowds of<br />

refugees during the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>’s floods. In the<br />

evenings, the Crown Theater and Candelario<br />

Munoz’s theater showed silent films. When the<br />

city incorporated in 1911, it boasted two cotton<br />

gins, a sugar mill, and a telephone exchange.<br />

Through bandit raids, floods, the<br />

Depression and numerous changes, Donna<br />

benefited from the spirited participation of<br />

pioneer families, their descendants, and<br />

newcomers, too, in city projects. Today, public<br />

forums encourage community involvement in<br />

planning the city’s future and in assessing<br />

community needs. Donna Square is being<br />

renovated through a Main Street project,<br />

unifying the building facades to make the area<br />

more appealing to both residents and visitors.<br />

Striking murals designed and painted by<br />

Proyecto Derecho del Corazón housed at the<br />

Boys and Girls Club decorate the city with<br />

colorful portrayals of its history. Donna Hooks<br />

Fletcher <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum, as part of<br />

preserving local heritage, participates in an ongoing<br />

oral history project, which interviews<br />

descendants of the earliest area families.<br />

In 2000 Donna welcomed Real Azteca Inn,<br />

First National Bank, Alamo Bank, and other new<br />

businesses. A privately owned cold storage plant<br />

is being developed along Donna’s new industrial<br />

corridor. The industrial park, starting small, has<br />

ample room to expand commercial development<br />

once Donna’s long-awaited international bridge<br />

becomes a reality. In cooperation with Frontera<br />

Audubon, Donna has converted an abandoned<br />

sewage plant-settling pond into approved<br />

wetlands, providing habitat for waterfowl and<br />

developing trails suitable for eco-tourists<br />

from local and distant communities. With a<br />

declining crime rate and increasing school<br />

enrollment, Donna claims an estimated 16,000<br />

residents. The city’s participation in the urban<br />

county program enables designated low-income<br />

residents to renovate their homes and improve<br />

their quality of life.<br />

“The city with heart in the heart of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>” knows how to work and it also knows<br />

how to celebrate. Crowds flock to the pre-<br />

Easter Eggstravaganza festival in the Park. The<br />

Cinco de Mayo celebration features artisans<br />

from the <strong>Valley</strong> and Mexico, particularly from<br />

Ramos Arizpe, Coahuila, Donna’s sister city. At<br />

work and at play, from its new water plant to its<br />

two-story library, Donna is changing to meet<br />

the challenges of the new century without<br />

forgetting its roots and traditional values.<br />

✧<br />

Top: ACinco de Mayo Fiesta.<br />

Above: This cultural history mural was<br />

painted by Donna students at Proyecto<br />

Derecho Corazon.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

223


CITY OF<br />

EDCOUCH<br />

In the rich farmland known as the Delta<br />

Area, the City of Edcouch was carved from<br />

a tract covered in mesquite and thorny<br />

brush. Once part of the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> land<br />

grant, during the 1800s the arid region<br />

supported two ranches: Rancho San Jose´ and<br />

Panchita Ranch. Early settlers belonged to the<br />

Salazar, Crenshaw, Carlson, Gutierrez, and<br />

Johnston families.<br />

In 1926 Weslaco banker Ed C. Couch, eager<br />

to have a Texas and New Orleans Railroad<br />

depot on property he owned, developed the<br />

area that was soon named after him. Within a<br />

year, the city was incorporated and booming.<br />

Cabbage, carrots, and cucumbers grown<br />

outside the city were passing through<br />

Edcouch’s eleven packing sheds on their way to<br />

market via the railroad. Feed stores, ice plants,<br />

and lumberyards lined city streets. Soon<br />

grocery and furniture stores, beauty parlors, an<br />

undertaker, a telephone exchange, a theater<br />

and a weekly newspaper added to the bustle of<br />

the boomtown. The city adopted a slogan that<br />

exhibited its rip-roaring attitude: “Edcouch,<br />

the town where thirty minutes ago is ancient<br />

history.” Even the 1933 hurricane, which<br />

destroyed the post office and fire station,<br />

couldn’t dampen the town’s growth. Sugarcane<br />

fields spread into the distance.<br />

But with time, the packing sheds closed<br />

although produce, cotton, and sugarcane<br />

crops still employed many townspeople. The<br />

city’s economy shifted to service businesses,<br />

and the population shrank. The small town<br />

with the big heart got quiet for a while.<br />

But after an assessment of its resources and<br />

with a determined effort to develop its<br />

potential, the City of Edcouch entered the<br />

twenty-first century reinvigorated. Its location<br />

near the Mexican border positioned the<br />

small town as a front door for binational<br />

business and trade. A young labor force,<br />

median age 23.7 years, indicated the city’s<br />

rich human resources.<br />

Economically, Edcouch is taking advantage<br />

of state and federal development grants available<br />

to it as a subzone of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Empowerment Zone. The ultimate goal in<br />

developing Edcouch is job creation. To do that,<br />

tax abatements and incentive programs like<br />

Urban County and Community Development<br />

Block Grants are being leveraged to upgrade the<br />

infrastructure, strengthen existing businesses<br />

and draw new ones to the area. With jobs for its<br />

residents, the city can look to a promising future<br />

that mirrors its boisterous past.<br />

“We all realize that without infrastructure,<br />

we can’t grow and we can’t attract new<br />

businesses and residents,” says Mayor Ramiro<br />

Silva. The new water plant symbolizes<br />

infrastructure construction, which is to be<br />

completed in 2001. Its 1.5-million-gallon<br />

capacity is projected to serve community needs<br />

for the next twenty years. Accompanying the<br />

water plant project are extensions of water and<br />

sewer lines. Street and drainage improvements<br />

strengthen the city’s infrastructure.<br />

A new multi-service health center plus the<br />

Bee Healthy Clinic for school children are the<br />

community’s response to under served health<br />

needs of residents. Recently recreational<br />

facilities from trails, baseball fields, municipal<br />

parks and a swimming pool have been added<br />

to the city’s assets. To meet demands for<br />

housing, private investors have constructed<br />

sixty-four new apartment units. Through the<br />

Urban County Housing Rehabilitation<br />

Program, existing homes of low-income<br />

residents qualify for revitalization. In 2000,<br />

seven homes benefited from this program.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

224


A new city hall and police department is<br />

slated for completion in 2001. Already are<br />

four more police cars, new fire department<br />

building and new fire equipment is<br />

safeguarding Edcouch.<br />

But Edcouch is more than public buildings<br />

and good roads. “It’s a community of family<br />

and friends,” Silva explains.<br />

Among the city’s four thousand residents, a<br />

number will be found at places like Nick’s<br />

Café, long a landmark on Santa Rosa Street.<br />

Once a year, family and friends join in the<br />

citywide block party known as the Annual 2-<br />

K Run held in April. Complete with sack<br />

races, a watermelon-eating contest and a pool<br />

party. The day is a celebration and family<br />

reunion rolled in one. Edcouch native, author<br />

David Rice, has lovingly and accurately<br />

portrayed life in a small border town in his<br />

book, Give the Pig a Chance.<br />

Through oral history programs, the Llano<br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Center for Research and Development<br />

is helping acquaint the youngest generation<br />

with older generations and gain understanding<br />

and respect for their heritage. Under the<br />

guidance of Edcouch-Elsa High School alumni<br />

Frank Guajardo, the Center challenges teens<br />

to find their own histories, to envision life in<br />

other times.<br />

One time in particular Edcouch-Elsa became<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s leader of a nationwide movement.<br />

In 1968, students at Edcouch-Elsa High School<br />

pioneered Hispanic civil rights in the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

denouncing ethnic discrimination by their<br />

school. Students staged a walkout in protest<br />

against rules that punished any speaking of<br />

Spanish and the unofficial exclusion of<br />

Hispanic student from college track courses and<br />

certain student positions. Federal Courts<br />

reversed the students’ expulsion on First<br />

Amendment grounds. Following this milestone,<br />

policy changes by the school board led to a<br />

more evenhanded educational system.<br />

Through a community effort, the small<br />

town with a big heart is becoming a better<br />

place to live and work.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

225


CITY OF<br />

HIDALGO AND<br />

HIDALGO<br />

ECONOMIC<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

CORPORATION<br />

✧<br />

Above: The 1926 suspension bridge between<br />

Reynosa and Hidalgo was a great<br />

improvement over the original ferry.<br />

Below: Built in 1886, the Hidalgo County<br />

Courthouse still stands, although the top<br />

floor was taken by a hurricane, and the<br />

county seat was moved to Edinburg.<br />

A city rich in history, culture, and<br />

tradition, Hidalgo evolved from the Mission<br />

San Joaquin del Monte founded in 1749 on<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>’s north bank by early settlers<br />

of what is now Reynosa, Mexico, to minister<br />

to nomadic Coahuiltecan Indians. The area,<br />

part of a 1767 Spanish land grant to Jose de la<br />

Cerda and Miguel Bocanegra, was once<br />

known as La Habitación, then San Luisito<br />

after a nearby ranch.<br />

Soon after the Mexican American War<br />

established the U.S. border at the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, the settlement was named<br />

Edinburgh, in honor of trading post owner<br />

John Young’s native land. As the first and only<br />

town in the newly established Hidalgo<br />

County, Edinburgh became the county seat in<br />

1852. The first school was built in 1854. In<br />

1861, the town was legally christened<br />

Hidalgo, honoring the leader of Mexican<br />

Independence, Father Miguel Hidalgo. By<br />

that time, the riverboat landing bustled with<br />

steamboat traffic and local ferries connecting<br />

Reynosa and Hidalgo. The community’s post<br />

office was nearby inside a grocery store at<br />

First Street and Flora.<br />

Hidalgo County’s Courthouse and jail of<br />

hand-made brick were built in 1886,<br />

replacing wooden structures that had been<br />

washed away repeatedly by the river’s annual<br />

floods. There was only one lawyer in the<br />

county, which had a population of six<br />

thousand while the city was nearing four<br />

hundred residents. In 1908 political<br />

maneuvering and those floods caused the<br />

county seat to be transferred to a town farther<br />

north. The U.S. Customs Service took over<br />

the Courthouse in 1919. Refurbished by the<br />

Border Bank, the Old Courthouse and Jail<br />

today bear state historical plaques.<br />

The rich soil and its potential for sugarcane<br />

cultivation motivated Henry Pharr and John<br />

Kelly to build an irrigation system in 1909 on<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> at Hidalgo. The Louisiana-<strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> Canal Company, incorporated in<br />

1910, began with a single steam-powered<br />

pump, first fueled by wood cleared from<br />

farmland. By 1912 the irrigation system<br />

boasted four steam-powered pumps which<br />

irrigated 72, 000 acres of prime farmland producing<br />

vegetables and sugarcane. Giant diesel<br />

engines and electric pumps were added before<br />

this pumphouse finally closed in 1983. The<br />

last remaining steam pumphouse in the U.S.<br />

is recognized as a National <strong>Historic</strong><br />

Landmark. It reopened as the Hidalgo<br />

Pumphouse Heritage & Discovery Park in<br />

1999, recalling the irrigation and agriculture<br />

foundation of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s growth and the<br />

bygone age of steam power.<br />

In 1926 Hidalgo resident Joe Pate led a<br />

group that obtained permits and constructed<br />

an international bridge. The suspension<br />

bridge between Hidalgo and Reynosa<br />

increased the flow of commercial, social and<br />

cultural traffic between the two cities and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

226


countries. In 2001 twin international bridges<br />

in Hidalgo stream with NAFTA-generated<br />

traffic. On an average day, over 16,000<br />

vehicles and 3,500 pedestrians cross into<br />

Reynosa, making Hidalgo one of Texas’<br />

busiest crossings.<br />

Today Hidalgo is a city of cultural diversity,<br />

exemplary schools, and friendly neighborhoods.<br />

The town recently completed a dynamic<br />

program of infrastructure and building<br />

development including a new city hall, library,<br />

health clinic, city park with sports fields and<br />

playground, and Youth Center.<br />

Trade with Mexico continues to be a vital<br />

part of the city’s economy. The international<br />

bridges contribute to the continuing growth<br />

of customs brokerages, warehouses and<br />

border businesses in Hidalgo. But the<br />

economy no longer relies solely on trade<br />

because tourism has become a significant<br />

factor. Winter Texans find a home away from<br />

home at Lake Texano Resort and other RV<br />

parks. Other tourists come to visit the<br />

Pumphouse Museum, historic buildings like<br />

the 1904 Crisoforo Vela house and the 1898<br />

Hidalgo School, and to stop by the “World’s<br />

Largest Killer Bee” statue marking the site<br />

where the Africanized honeybee first entered<br />

the U.S. Ecotourism is on the rise, too,<br />

following Hidalgo’s designation as a World<br />

Birding Center satellite. Trails along the<br />

Pumphouse channel and an adjacent six<br />

hundred acre preserve of the U.S. Fish &<br />

Wildlife Service reveal subtropical wildlife—<br />

colorful birds, butterflies and animals—in<br />

native habitat. The city also participates in Los<br />

Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> project, promoting border<br />

heritage and history.<br />

BorderFest, held on the first weekend in<br />

March, is a four-day-long celebration of border<br />

culture. The festive parade and ten entertainment<br />

stages bouncing with folkloric dancers,<br />

mariachis, bands, and folk crafts draw tens of<br />

thousands of people. Authentic Mexican food<br />

and good family fun have made BorderFest a<br />

must-be place for residents and visitors.<br />

In December, Hidalgo’s Festival of Lights<br />

attracts thousands of visitors to share the<br />

holiday spirit and to see city parks, public<br />

buildings and private homes ablaze with<br />

festive holiday lights.<br />

Hidalgo’s resources include a branch of the<br />

University of Texas–Pan Am, the Hidalgo<br />

Youth Center, three busy city parks plus the<br />

charm and beauty unique to a City on the<br />

Edge of two nations, two cultures.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Originally begun in 1909 to pump<br />

water from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> to the fertile<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> fields, the Hidalgo Pumphouse is now<br />

a museum on the National Register.<br />

Left: BorderFest Weekend has been<br />

atracting many thousands of people to<br />

Hidalgo since 1976 to enjoy music and<br />

spectacle, food and fun.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

227


CITY OF<br />

LA FERIA<br />

✧<br />

Above: As seen from the La Feria train<br />

depot, the city’s first bank and first hotel<br />

front the road that eventually became<br />

Business Highway 83.<br />

Below: Land excursion parties arriving by<br />

train received a warm welcome at the<br />

La Feria Community Club across from<br />

the depot.<br />

Early Spanish explorers, encountering<br />

Karankawa Indians having a day of feasting<br />

and games, were invited to join them. For<br />

many years that site hosted fiestas and horse<br />

races each September and was called the<br />

Fairgrounds or Los Llanos de La Feria. When<br />

the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> land grant was divided, the<br />

eastern sector was called the La Feria Grant.<br />

In 1790 Rosa Maria Hinojosa de Ballí took<br />

possession of that twelve leagues of land—<br />

more than 53,000 acres—running north from<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> for fifteen miles. Questions<br />

about the La Feria boundary and land<br />

ownership did not cease until 1935.<br />

In 1908 the community of La Feria took<br />

root near the fair site. Within a year its<br />

population reached one hundred, served by<br />

a post office, five stores, and a hotel. The<br />

Minnesota-Texas Land and Development<br />

Company’s president, S. J. Schnorenberg,<br />

established the town site from Canal Street on<br />

the west to Parker Road on the east in 1909.<br />

Although La Feria was laid out along the<br />

railroad line, it lacked a railroad depot, an<br />

essential element in growth and development.<br />

Pleas and inducements did not win the<br />

community more than a mailbag hook. In<br />

1912 a group of La Feria residents took a team<br />

of horses a mile and a half west to the Bixby<br />

Depot, loaded the wooden depot on two flat<br />

cars, and took it home to La Feria where it<br />

served the town for many years.<br />

With a La Feria train stop, the town<br />

acquired legitimacy and prospered as land sales<br />

increased. The La Feria Community Club,<br />

directly across from the depot, welcomed<br />

excursion parties from the mid-west. Once<br />

visitors were feted at the Community Club,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

228


they toured the surrounding farmlands and<br />

were shown how productive the soil could be.<br />

The City of La Feria was incorporated in<br />

1915 with Bailey H. Dunlap, president of First<br />

National Bank of La Feria, serving as the first<br />

mayor. In 1983 La Feria voters approved a<br />

city manager form of government and in 1989<br />

La Feria became a home rule municipality.<br />

Today La Feria City Hall occupies the site<br />

of the old Community Club. Citrus, cotton,<br />

sugar cane, and grain fields still surround La<br />

Feria for agriculture is alive and well, but the<br />

community has diversified its economy.<br />

Specialty manufacturers, construction and<br />

service companies, banks, retail stores,<br />

medical services, a hotel, and numerous<br />

franchise restaurants are indicators of the<br />

city’s positive business development<br />

philosophy. One of the fastest growing areas<br />

in western Cameron County, La Feria has long<br />

been the preferred location for radio and<br />

television transmission towers, and now,<br />

wireless phone towers.<br />

The city’s resources are committed to<br />

enhancing the quality for life of its nearly<br />

6,300 residents. With water a critical issue<br />

throughout the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, La Feria<br />

has secured funding to install a city well near<br />

the current water plant. A new water tower<br />

will more than double the aboveground water<br />

storage for the city, anticipating future<br />

residential and commercial growth.<br />

The Volunteer Fire Department acquired a<br />

new fire hall in 1998, which provides a<br />

training area for firefighters and houses four<br />

fire trucks and several support units. The<br />

average response time within city limits is<br />

three minutes. In 1999 the Bailey H. Dunlap<br />

Public Library completed an expansion,<br />

doubling its size. Technically focused with<br />

twelve Internet-connected computers, the<br />

library gives its patrons access to 360,000<br />

books in the Cameron County Library System.<br />

The academic and athletic prowess of the La<br />

Feria Independent School District is widely<br />

recognized. Approximately 2,600 students are<br />

enrolled in the city’s three elementary schools,<br />

the middle school and the high school.<br />

Accelerated curriculum for gifted and talented<br />

students is provided at all grade levels. The La<br />

Feria Sports Complex, a twenty-five-acre<br />

playground for the young and young-at-heart,<br />

is the home of the city’s Pony Baseball League<br />

for children five to fourteen years old. The city’s<br />

public pool opens in May and a youth program<br />

is available during the summer for students.<br />

Winter Texans, who are a welcome<br />

addition to the city from October to April, fill<br />

twenty-four RV parks in and around La Feria.<br />

The February Fiesta de la Feria, a celebration<br />

originated to entertain Winter Texans, is now<br />

a community-wide party. Carnival rides, live<br />

bands, local talent, arts and crafts, and booths<br />

of appetizing ethnic food fill Main and<br />

Commercial Streets. Like the Fiesta, the city’s<br />

Christmas Parade is a volunteer-run event. In<br />

fact La Feria’s dynamic mix of community<br />

spirit and active civic groups has enabled the<br />

community and its residents to prosper.<br />

Six historical markers in La Feria honor<br />

pioneers of the Texas border. One marker<br />

commemorates the fair site of 200 years ago<br />

and others point out the 1909 Rosalio<br />

Longoria Home, the 1912 Dunlap House; the<br />

First Bank of La Feria dating from 1912; and<br />

the La Feria Cemetery from 1917.<br />

✧<br />

Fiesta de la Feria.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

229


CITY OF<br />

PHARR &<br />

PHARR<br />

ECONOMIC<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

CORPORATION<br />

✧<br />

Pharr’s first hotel, built around 1910.<br />

Riding on horseback across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in 1909, John C. Kelly decided he had<br />

found the perfect location in which to raise<br />

sugarcane, so he purchased sixteen thousand<br />

acres between Edinburg and the river with a<br />

friend. The success of Kelly’s first sugarcane<br />

harvest attracted the interest of Louisiana<br />

grower Henry N. Pharr. He and Kelly formed<br />

the Louisiana <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Sugar Cane<br />

Company, jointly purchased twenty thousand<br />

acres, and hired engineers to build an<br />

irrigation system for the thirsty crop.<br />

In 1910 the sugarcane company’s office<br />

was built near the wooden hotel known as the<br />

Gem of the <strong>Valley</strong>. By the time the post office<br />

for the new town of Pharr opened in March<br />

1911, the community already had several<br />

hundred residents. Platting and mapping the<br />

new town site was underway although the city<br />

was not incorporated until 1916.<br />

Within a few years, sugarcane growing had<br />

been abandoned, but new settlers found the<br />

combination of the Pharr Canal System and the<br />

fertile soil produced profitable crops of<br />

vegetables, citrus, and cotton. While a Mexican<br />

schoolhouse existed in the area, the city built a<br />

two-story Spanish Colonial school at a cost of<br />

$4,000. By 1918 the school had between 70<br />

and 80 students and four teachers.<br />

In 1916, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Clarion, a weekly<br />

newspaper published by W. E. Cage, Pharr’s<br />

second mayor, began informing the town.<br />

Around then, bandit raids became so<br />

widespread along the border following the<br />

Mexican Revolution that the U.S. government<br />

sent National Guard troops to the area to<br />

provide security. New York and Tennessee<br />

regiments encamped just south of the Pharr city<br />

limits. Pharr’s volunteer fire department was<br />

organized in 1925 and the equipment housed in<br />

a shed near A. A. Kelley’s Company store until<br />

the first firehouse was built in 1928 on West<br />

Cherokee. The Library was founded in 1930, by<br />

which time the first civic organizations such as<br />

the Kiwanis had been established.<br />

Despite the Great Depression, related bank<br />

closings, and numerous fires that leveled<br />

downtown blocks of the city, Pharr grew to<br />

become a center for vegetable packers and<br />

fruit shippers and has remained so to this day.<br />

Located in the nation’s third-fastest growing<br />

Metropolitan area, Pharr today is known as a<br />

transportation and distribution center for the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> due to its location along the<br />

intersection of Highway 281 and Expressway<br />

83. The opening of the Pharr/Reynosa<br />

International Bridge in 1995 brought a surge in<br />

commercial trucking on its way to and from<br />

Mexico and has triggered the development of<br />

related businesses, such as import/export<br />

brokers, warehouses, and logistics companies,<br />

adjacent to the bridge corridor. Over 2.1<br />

million vehicles used the environmentally<br />

sensitive 3.2 miles long span over the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> in 2000. The steadily increasing bridge<br />

traffic, a major revenue producer for the city,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

230


positions Pharr to benefit from continued<br />

growth in international trade.<br />

In order to assist businesses to locate and<br />

expand in the city, Pharr Economic<br />

Development Corporation has transformed an<br />

empty building into a job training facility. The<br />

facility will provide both opportunities for<br />

citizens to obtain jobs and for new and<br />

expanding businesses to obtain trained job<br />

applicants. South Texas Community College<br />

and Region One Educational Service Center<br />

have the task of developing curriculums to<br />

meet the needs of companies that have<br />

requested special training. The PEDC has also<br />

assisted existing businesses to expand or<br />

renovate their sites.<br />

The highways so essential for commerce<br />

also bring thousands of winter visitors to<br />

Pharr’s popular recreational vehicle parks and<br />

resorts. They and Pharr’s thirty-six thousand<br />

permanent residents decided the city was<br />

their favorite place to live and play. The City’s<br />

Tierra del Sol Golf Club and its numerous<br />

parks from the War Veterans Memorial to the<br />

Central Pharr Project, an oasis of native and<br />

semi-native palms, and flowers, all add<br />

charm, color and feeling to the heart of the<br />

city. Aptly known as the city “On the Rise,”<br />

Pharr plans to enhance the community with a<br />

new police station, a doubling in size of the<br />

Pharr Memorial Library, a revitalization of the<br />

downtown commercial district, and the<br />

creation of the twenty-seven-acre community<br />

park at Las Milpas. Pharr is the headquarters<br />

for the Pharr-San Juan-Alamo school district,<br />

dating to 1919, which pulls students from a<br />

forty-seven-square-mile region.<br />

As Pharr approaches its centennial, the<br />

City, its commissioners, and its citizens are<br />

working together to meet the challenges and<br />

opportunities that arise.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Pharr’s Landmark Building was built<br />

in 1908. The building served as the first city<br />

hall and first bank.<br />

Below: The first City of Pharr Fire<br />

Department building constructed in the<br />

late 1920s.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

231


CITY OF<br />

RAYMONDVILLE<br />

✧<br />

Above: The 1554 shipwreck mural by<br />

Ramon Claudio.<br />

Below: An early watermelon harvest.<br />

Opposite, top: Abraham <strong>Rio</strong>s, boot-maker.<br />

Opposite, middle: Boots made by<br />

Armando Duarte.<br />

Opposite, bottom: An Onion Fiesta Queen<br />

Noino parade float.<br />

On the edge of the Wild Horse Desert,<br />

Raymondville balances a colorful history with a<br />

promising future. Three bright new murals on<br />

Hidalgo Avenue depict local events dating back<br />

more than 400 years. Although Raymondville’s<br />

heritage is very down to earth reflecting its<br />

farming and ranching roots, the city is<br />

remaking itself in the twenty-first century.<br />

Raymondville, the Willacy County seat, is<br />

shooting for the stars…or space at least,<br />

supporting the development of a space launch<br />

center in the region. At the same time, it<br />

takes pride in the job creation that comes<br />

from being a prison-friendly community.<br />

Thousands of visitors are attracted to the<br />

Raymondville region by its abundant wildlife,<br />

native habitat and sub-tropical climate. Yearround<br />

Gulf fishing, the Texas Coastal Birding<br />

Trail, and a Wild in Willacy nature festival<br />

add to the area’s appeal.<br />

The Raymondville region was once part of<br />

the 1790 San Juan de Carricitos Spanish land<br />

grant awarded to Don José Narciso Cavazos.<br />

Convinced the area’s rich alluvial soil was<br />

ideal for growing vegetables, Edward Burleson<br />

Raymond, foreman of the El Sauz division of<br />

the King Ranch, acquired 24,000 acres in<br />

1903. He formed the Raymond Town and<br />

Improvement Company in 1904 and built<br />

a cotton gin. The Kleberg Town and<br />

Improvement Company bought King Ranch<br />

land, and, with Raymond’s company, began to<br />

sell lots. The first St. Louis, Brownsville, and<br />

Mexico Railway train passed through<br />

Raymondville on July 4, 1904. In exchange<br />

for the right of way, the railroad provided low<br />

cost fares for potential settlers attracted by the<br />

possibility of raising crops year around. J. E.<br />

Kimball, Raymond’s brother-in-law, became<br />

railroad agent and postmaster and also<br />

opened the first general store in Raymondville<br />

on the corner of Seventh and Hidalgo Avenue.<br />

In the early days, water from an artesian well<br />

was carted in wheeled barrels to Raymondville<br />

homes and businesses. But the town grew as<br />

other land development companies prepared<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

232


more land for sale to farming families.<br />

Raymondville was soon encircled with new<br />

farming towns named after the developers’ kin:<br />

Hargill, Lasara, San Perlita.<br />

By 1905 Raymondville’s first lodging was<br />

opened by the Kimball sisters, seamstress Dora<br />

and teacher Nellie. The Davidson Hotel, “an<br />

oasis of luxury in a desert of brush” country,<br />

began registering guests shortly after for its<br />

eighteen rooms of brass beds and Oriental<br />

rugs. In a corner of the Raymondville Lumber<br />

Company, the Raymondville State Bank<br />

opened and began taking deposits. City<br />

Founder E. B. Raymond was the bank’s<br />

president and C. H. Pease was the bank’s<br />

owner and cashier.<br />

The City of Raymondville was incorporated<br />

around 1912 in Cameron County with S.<br />

Lamar Gill as mayor. Two years later the town<br />

had a population of 350, a newspaper and four<br />

general stores. In 1921 Raymondville was<br />

named the seat of the newly created Willacy<br />

County. The County Courthouse, built in<br />

1922, is still in use.<br />

Bootmakers, electricity, doctors, paved<br />

streets and more stores arrived in<br />

Raymondville, but agriculture remained the<br />

heart of the city. The families that sowed and<br />

harvested the surrounding fields of potatoes,<br />

onions, cotton, peas, corn, and sorghum<br />

swelled the area’s population. Dryland farming<br />

was the norm, but in years of below average<br />

rainfall harvests were meager. The need<br />

for an irrigation system became apparent. W.<br />

A. Harding and S. Lamar Gill helped create<br />

the Willacy County Water Control and<br />

Improvement District No.1 in 1929, which<br />

contributed greatly to the town’s prosperity.<br />

In 1929 Raymondville began calling itself<br />

the “Onion Capitol of the World,” celebrating<br />

its fragrant Bermuda onions with Onion<br />

Fiestas held until 1960. Jackrabbit races,<br />

cooking contests, and a Queen Noino (onion<br />

spelled backwards) pageant brightened the<br />

spring air of the county, which dubbed itself<br />

“The Breath of the Nation.”<br />

During the Depression, Raymondville was<br />

the only <strong>Valley</strong> city that had no bank failures.<br />

Bumper vegetable crops and the beginning of<br />

oil and gas production contributed to the<br />

banks’ solvency.<br />

Today, as the gateway to the border region,<br />

Raymondville attracts legions of winter visitors<br />

who appreciate its warm climate and outdoor<br />

attractions. West of Raymondville, the<br />

salt lakes La Sal Vieja and El Sal del Rey—<br />

landmarks before the conquistadors—have<br />

become a unique nature tourism destination.<br />

Nearby Port Mansfield is a favorite sports fishing<br />

spot. Housed in a 1924 schoolhouse, the<br />

Raymondville <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum features<br />

exhibits of ranch life including the cypress<br />

gate that once barred the Corpus Christi to<br />

Brownsville stagecoach road. Artifacts from a<br />

1554 shipwreck off the Gulf coast and sepiatoned<br />

photographs of early settlers delight<br />

both tourists and residents.<br />

As the town approaches 9,000 in population,<br />

it is being revitalized by new industries,<br />

supported by the Industrial Development<br />

Foundation, and by quality of life ingredients<br />

like pocket parks and school improvements.<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s telecommunications leader in<br />

fiber optics is headquartered in Raymondville,<br />

enabling the growth of virtual high-tech businesses.<br />

Nevertheless, Raymondville remains<br />

an agricultural center for traditional crops and<br />

for new ones such as kenaf. With all its<br />

resources, working together, looking ahead,<br />

Raymondville is creating a brighter tomorrow.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

233


CITY OF ROMA<br />

✧<br />

Above: The seven-hundred-foot-long<br />

Roma-Miguel Aleman Suspension Bridge<br />

constructed in 1928, proudly spans the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Adjacent to its modern<br />

counterpart remains the sole remaining<br />

suspension bridge out of the five built<br />

across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>.<br />

Below: Guadalupe Plaza located along U.S.<br />

Highway 83 and Garcia Street and Mendez<br />

Avenue. Concerts and festivals are held at<br />

the plaza throughout the year.<br />

In 1753, José de Escandon established a<br />

settlement south of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> at Mier, one<br />

of five original colonial towns of Nuevo<br />

Santander province. The Spanish crown<br />

awarded land grants down river on the north<br />

bank to colonists Miguel Saenz and Juan Salinas<br />

in 1765, although it wasn’t until 1767 that<br />

families moved onto Rancho de Buena Vista<br />

and Rancho de los Saenz. The self-sufficient<br />

ranches were on tracts, which began at the bluff<br />

overlooking river and stretched north.<br />

By the early 1840s the ranches supported a<br />

village known as Garcias. The origin of the<br />

name of Roma is traced to two different<br />

legends. The city either honors a military<br />

officer named Roman or recalls its<br />

resemblance to Rome and the arid rolling<br />

Italian hills, as described by visiting priests.<br />

In 1846 Roma, which had relied on small<br />

boats to maintain connections with Mier, was<br />

transformed into a river port as Mifflin<br />

Kenedy’s steamboat company began operating<br />

between Brownsville and Roma. As the<br />

western end of the navigable waterway, Roma<br />

became the site of a busy steamboat landing.<br />

Until river traffic halted in the early 1880s,<br />

Roma’s economy benefited from being a major<br />

entry port for goods bound to Mexico’s<br />

interior. Roma’s residents claimed French,<br />

Hispanic, German, and Texan heritages,<br />

which are evident today in the city’s<br />

architecture, food, and family names.<br />

The Mexican American War, settled by the<br />

treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo in 1848, separated<br />

the City of Roma from Mier, Mexico, legally, if<br />

not culturally, economically or socially. Roma<br />

became part of Starr County, formed in 1850<br />

and named after Dr. James Starr, treasurer of the<br />

short-lived Republic of Texas.<br />

The city’s plaza features stone and brick<br />

sidewalks in front of walled compounds that<br />

hide spacious courtyards in the Spanish style.<br />

A church and a building which served as a<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

234


Civil War hospital face the plaza along with<br />

homes and business establishments built of<br />

sandstone, caliche, and molded brick<br />

Many builders contributed to the city’s<br />

architectural style. They used building<br />

traditions common in northern Mexico, such<br />

as plastering designs and techniques, brick<br />

and limecrete as roofing material, and<br />

sandstone patterning methods. The Noah Cox<br />

House built in 1853 is an example of<br />

mercantile establishments of the steamboat<br />

era. The church tower at Our Lady of Refuge<br />

Catholic Church is all that remains of the<br />

original church erected in 1854 by the noted<br />

Gothic style architect, Father Peter Keralum.<br />

In the 1880s, builder Heinrich Portcheller<br />

employed using elaborate designs molded<br />

brick from his own kiln to created some of the<br />

city’s finest, most enduring structures. Among<br />

them are the Manuel Guerra Store built for a<br />

Starr County political and civic leader, the<br />

Old Convent, the Pablo and Josefa Ramirez<br />

House now the Knights of Columbus Hall,<br />

and the Nestor Saenz Store with its<br />

underground basement where Mexican<br />

Revolution refugees were sheltered.<br />

In 1928 a steel suspension bridge connecting<br />

Roma and Ciudad Miguel Aleman allowed a<br />

freer flow of trade and people between the two<br />

sides of the river, which had never been a barrier<br />

to legal or illegal commerce. Plans are underway<br />

for restoring this last surviving suspension<br />

bridge over the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as a pedestrian and<br />

bicycle crossing.<br />

In 1951 Roma had a moment of glory when<br />

the movie Viva Zapata starring Marlon Brando,<br />

Anthony Quinn and Jean Peters was filmed<br />

here. The city celebrates the event with an<br />

annual “Viva Zapata” festival in November. An<br />

October festival honors the architectural and<br />

pastoral work of Father Keralum.<br />

Today Roma is gradually being<br />

transformed from a small rural town<br />

dependent on agricultural and ranching<br />

efforts into a more urban-based economy.<br />

Thriving trade between the U.S. and Mexico<br />

and a rise in oil production, mining and<br />

limited manufacturing have enabled Roma to<br />

grow to approximately twelve thousand.<br />

School enrollment is just over six thousand.<br />

To serve current and future growth, the city’s<br />

infrastructure is being upgraded by a $30<br />

million investment in water treatment and<br />

wastewater processing facilities. A young and<br />

aggressive workforce remains one of Roma’s<br />

major assets.<br />

The Roma National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark<br />

District attracts visitors to admire the thirtyeight<br />

restored and soon-to-be restored<br />

buildings that date from 1848 to 1928. The<br />

district is adding a visitor complex that<br />

includes an information center and a<br />

museum. The complex will also provide<br />

information on natural habitat and resources,<br />

as a satellite of the World Birding Center. A<br />

major stop on the Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> project,<br />

Roma is an outstanding representative of the<br />

region’s multi-faceted heritage.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Our Lady of Refuge Parish Hall,<br />

located at 301 Saint Eugene de Mazenod in<br />

the Roma <strong>Historic</strong>al National Landmark<br />

District. The hall was built in 1880 by<br />

Heinrich (Enrique) Portscheller as living<br />

quarters for a group of nuns.<br />

Below: A group of students touring the<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al National Landmark District<br />

and the World Birding Center located in<br />

the district.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

235


CITY OF<br />

SAN BENITO<br />

In 1793 the Spanish crown awarded the<br />

seventy-five thousand acres of the Concepción<br />

de Carricitos grant to Eugenio and Bartolo<br />

Fernandez who agreed to colonize the land on<br />

the north bank of the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. A few<br />

scattered ranches comprised the settlement. After<br />

the Mexican American War in 1848, descendants<br />

of the Fernandez brothers hired attorney<br />

Stephen Powers to protect their title to the land<br />

when it became part of the United States. In<br />

exchange for his services Powers took about onehalf<br />

of the entire grant, beginning several miles<br />

back from the river where the land was valued at<br />

less than ten cents per acre. He later bought out<br />

several heirs with portions on the river. Powers’<br />

daughter Frances Landrum inherited some of<br />

that land and with her husband James Landrum<br />

completed a home in 1902 at El Rancho Cipres,<br />

named for the cypress shipped from New<br />

Orleans to the nearby riverboat landing.<br />

Landrum pioneered an irrigation system for his<br />

cotton and vegetable crops.<br />

In 1903 Sam Robertson won the contract to<br />

lay track and build trestle bridges for the St.<br />

Louis, Brownsville, and Matamoros Railroad<br />

between Robstown and Brownsville, at the<br />

same time scouting for farmland to develop.<br />

Near the Resaca de los Fresnos, he selected a<br />

depot site, which he named Bessie. Robertson<br />

reached agreements with landowners James L.<br />

Landrum and Oliver Hicks for thirteen<br />

thousand acres of land. “I discussed my plans<br />

for the irrigation of their lands and the building<br />

of a town at San Benito, then a narrow place in<br />

the jungle…I made a verbal contract with<br />

twenty-five Mexicans for canal rights of way to<br />

be deeded when the canals were built,”<br />

Robertson wrote many years later. James<br />

Landrum, Sam Robertson and Oliver Hicks led<br />

in developing the area.<br />

In 1907 Robertson platted the town of Diaz,<br />

which was soon renamed San Benito. Robertson<br />

had already secured investors and $500,000 to<br />

form the San Benito Land and Water Company<br />

designed to irrigate sixty-eight thousand acres. A<br />

combination of man-made channels, locks and<br />

the Resaca formed the district’s thirty-seven-mile<br />

long main canal. In 1908, with the irrigation<br />

district ready to supply farm tracts, excursion<br />

trains began arriving with Midwesterners eager<br />

to purchase small plots of productive land.<br />

By 1909, the community boasted several<br />

stores, a cotton gin, one schoolhouse, churches<br />

and homes and awaited the arrival of electricity,<br />

a city water system, sidewalks, an ice plant, and<br />

a large sugar mill. San Benito’s first school had<br />

only one room when it opened in 1908 with<br />

forty-eight students speaking the languages of<br />

Germany, Bohemia, Spain and Mexico as well as<br />

English. To help get produce to market, thereby<br />

increasing land sales, Robertson built the San<br />

Benito and <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Railroad, known<br />

as the Spiderweb or Backdoor Railroad which<br />

connected <strong>Rio</strong> Hondo and San Benito to Los<br />

Indios and on to Mission. San Benito was<br />

incorporated in 1911 and became known as a<br />

railroad hub. The city gained a reputation for<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

236


shipping the highest volume of fruits and<br />

vegetables of any <strong>Valley</strong> city.<br />

Bandit raids followed by World War I and<br />

the arrival of National Guard troops to protect<br />

the border disrupted the city’s steady growth.<br />

In 1915 troops of Iowa National Guardsmen<br />

set up a tent camp on Landrum School<br />

grounds. Through the 1920s and ’30s, despite<br />

the Depression and the Hurricane of 1933,<br />

the city held its own. The Stonewall Jackson<br />

Hotel, built in 1928 by public subscription,<br />

became a center of social life while movie theaters<br />

like the Rivoli, the Ruenes, and Palace<br />

offered entertainment, as did dances at La<br />

Villita and the ship-shaped Aztec Building.<br />

Narciso Martinez played the music of the<br />

region’s ranchos and farms on his accordion,<br />

giving birth to the folk music known as conjunto,<br />

while he earned the nickname el<br />

Huracan del Valle. The cultural arts center<br />

named for him in San Benito presents programs<br />

of Hispanic music, art, and literature.<br />

Today, San Benito’s 23,444 residents recall<br />

their roots with the Summertime Heritage<br />

Festival, the Diez y Seis de Septiembre<br />

Festival of Conjunto Music at the Narcisco<br />

Martinez Cultural Arts Center, and the South<br />

Texas Youth Stock Show every spring. The<br />

city’s resources include its Downtown Main<br />

Street program, the Challenger Space Center,<br />

and the Dolly Vinsant Memorial Hospital. The<br />

city is home to Texas’ largest RV park, Fun ‘n’<br />

Sun, which adds three thousand residents<br />

each season, and thriving industrial parks<br />

hosting diverse manufacturers, some of which<br />

supply maquiladoras across the Free Trade<br />

Bridge. Many years ago, San Benito businessmen<br />

had the foresight to set aside land for the<br />

bridge, which has established the city firmly<br />

in the global economy.<br />

Resacas still wind through San Benito’s<br />

tree-shaded neighborhoods just as the railroad<br />

runs through the city center. While the<br />

city is evolving and becoming a better place to<br />

live and work, it strives to retain the people,<br />

the buildings, and the sense of community<br />

that have made it what it is today.<br />

✧<br />

Opposite, top: The General Land Office of<br />

the San Benito Land & Water Company A<br />

few of the levee riders’ horses hitched in<br />

front. The riders managed two hundred<br />

miles of irrigation canals, making sure<br />

farmers received water when and where<br />

they needed it for their crops. Today the<br />

building at South Sam Houston and<br />

Robertson Streets is home to Cameron<br />

County Irrigation District #2.<br />

Opposite, bottom: At one time, the City<br />

Hall of San Benito, also known as the<br />

Aztec Building, was renowned for its shiplike<br />

structure.<br />

Above: An early photo of Main Street in<br />

San Benito.<br />

Below: A view of Resaca from the<br />

Aztec Building.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

237


CITY OF<br />

WESLACO<br />

✧<br />

Above: Weslaco was home to Texsun, the<br />

world’s largest grapefruit juice canning<br />

plant for many years, and Texsun<br />

advertised its products throughout the<br />

United States and beyond. The site is now<br />

home to Weslaco’s International Venture<br />

Center and the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Branch of South<br />

Texas Community College.<br />

COURTESY OF WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Weslaco provides year-round family<br />

events and a great quality of life. Its citizens<br />

take special pride in its 1928 City Hall,<br />

designed by architect R. Newell Waters and<br />

commissioned an Official Texas <strong>Historic</strong><br />

Landmark in 1979.<br />

COURTESY OF WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

In the midst of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

Weslaco claims a healthy economy, tree-shaded<br />

neighborhoods, adventurous restaurants, and<br />

high quality education. With its historic<br />

buildings and downtown shopping district,<br />

year-round outdoor recreation, and new<br />

businesses, the city has attracted over thirty<br />

thousand residents who appreciate its past and<br />

anticipate its future.<br />

In 1919, land excursion parties began<br />

arriving at the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Lake clubhouse,<br />

ready to take on the task of converting brushcovered<br />

terrain into highly productive<br />

vegetable farms. Land developer W. E. Stewart<br />

sold a tract of the Llano <strong>Grande</strong> grant to Ed C.<br />

Couch and R. L. Reeves for a town site along<br />

the Missouri & Pacific Railroad line. On<br />

December 1919 an auction of residential and<br />

business lots officially established the town<br />

with land set aside for schools, parks,<br />

churches, and a city hall. The town’s name<br />

was formed from the first letters of the W. E.<br />

Stewart Land Company: Weslaco.<br />

Within two years, the city bustled with<br />

activity at new enterprises such as the S. M.<br />

Mattar family’s The People’s Store and the<br />

Guaranty Bank, presided over by Ed Couch.<br />

Donkey-drawn water barrel delivery carts had<br />

been replaced by a city water system. The<br />

fertile <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Delta insured a thriving<br />

agricultural economy. McManus Produce and<br />

Baxter Seed Company got their start then, as<br />

did numerous cotton gins and vegetable and<br />

citrus packing sheds. The prosperous city in<br />

time diversified its economic base into<br />

manufacturing, tourism, and healthcare.<br />

Civic resources, natural assets, and<br />

economic strengths have enabled Weslaco to<br />

grow. Weslaco’s multi-story Knapp Medical<br />

Clinic is the hub of a major medical complex<br />

of physicians’ offices, clinics, and health<br />

services. And retirees across the nation come<br />

to John Knox Village Retirement Community<br />

to enjoy their retirement years in its secure life<br />

care program.<br />

Today Weslaco is a city of historic<br />

landmarks, progressive businesses, and friendly<br />

residents. Built in 1928 as Weslaco’s water<br />

storage, the Tower Theatre is now a Texas<br />

historic landmark and the site of six amateur<br />

stage productions annually. The private<br />

donations and support that transformed the<br />

abandoned water tank into a theatre-in-theround<br />

are only one example of Weslaco’s<br />

dynamic community. Next to the city’s library,<br />

Weslaco’s Bicultural Museum displays glimpses<br />

of early settlers’ lives. Sepia tinted photos show<br />

the faces and places that built the city.<br />

Agriculture, the basis for much of<br />

Weslaco’s birth and growth, remains a major<br />

economic force because the city is home to<br />

the Texas A & M University’s Agricultural<br />

Research and Extension Center, the Texas A &<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

238


M-Kingsville Citrus Center and U. S. D. A.’s<br />

Subtropical Agricultural Research Center.<br />

Researchers in Weslaco pioneered the Ruby<br />

Red and <strong>Rio</strong> Star grapefruit along with the<br />

1015 onion and many advances in cotton,<br />

sugar cane, and vegetable production.<br />

Weslaco is the future site of the Agriculture<br />

Discovery Center, which will have hands-on<br />

exhibits of agricultural technology and<br />

provide a research library and archive South<br />

Texas agricultural history.<br />

The International Venture Center, once the<br />

Texsun Citrus processing plant, is today home<br />

to a business incubator and economic<br />

development effort and also to South Texas<br />

Community College. Weslaco’s mid-<strong>Valley</strong><br />

location is drawing more and more industries,<br />

which recognize the easy access to Mexican<br />

businesses offered by the nearby Progreso<br />

International Bridge.<br />

Downtown merchants have supported the<br />

revitalization of Weslaco through the Main<br />

Street Program. The renovated Villa de Cortez is<br />

the center of a very active and attractive<br />

downtown. Built in 1928, as the Hotel Cortez,<br />

the Villa de Cortez enhances the downtown<br />

area with restaurants, ballrooms, boutiques and<br />

offices, just as its namesake did in its day.<br />

Weslaco’s characteristic 1920s and 1930s stucco<br />

architecture is visible both at City Hall, built in<br />

1928 and now a state historic landmark, and<br />

the Skaggs House, which is being restored as a<br />

museum to celebrate that era.<br />

Weslaco’s warm welcome and recreational<br />

opportunities for all ages draw Winter Texans<br />

and other visitors. From the Village Executive<br />

par 3 golf course to the renowned Tierra Santa<br />

Golf Club’s 18-hole course, exercise and sports<br />

activities abound. In April the Onion Festival<br />

celebrates the harvest of the sweet 1015 onion.<br />

Music, contests, and onions—served blossomed<br />

and fried or raw—bring out both hometown<br />

crowds and visitors.<br />

In addition to the city’s seven park, the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Nature Center’s urban oasis offers five acres of<br />

native plants, butterflies, and exotic local birds<br />

including the red-crowned parrot. The<br />

Frontera Audubon Society’s meadows and<br />

woodlands attract wildlife from tree lizards to<br />

ground squirrels. Given Weslaco’s wildlife<br />

resources, it is easy to understand why the city<br />

will be an integral part of the World Birding<br />

Center. Nearby Santa Ana Wildlife Refuge is an<br />

ideal bird and butterfly-watching destination.<br />

Besides being home to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Partnership/<strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce, the<br />

Super National Guard Armory, and the Mid-<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Airport, Weslaco has all the amenities<br />

that make living and working here a “slice of<br />

the good life.” Just ask anyone who lives in<br />

Weslaco…or wishes they did.<br />

✧<br />

Above: School children parade on Weslaco’s<br />

Texas Boulevard in honor of San Jacinto<br />

Day on April 21, 1924.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WESLACO BICULTURAL MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Weslaco, one of the best birding spots<br />

in Texas, is a major site for the World<br />

Birding Center.<br />

COURTESY OF MARTHA NOELL.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

239


✧<br />

Above: The swing bridge was swung open in<br />

July 1910 for inspection and was<br />

photographed by famous photographer<br />

Robert Runyon.<br />

Below: An early 1900s view of the bridge<br />

and the U.S. Customs installation.<br />

THE BROWNSVILLE & MATAMOROS<br />

BRIDGE COMPANY<br />

In 1908 U.S. Congressman John Nance<br />

Garner introduced a bill authorizing<br />

construction of a bridge across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

at Brownsville to connect the St. Louis,<br />

Brownsville and Mexico Railway with the<br />

Mexican National Railway line. At that time,<br />

only small ferryboats and a pontoon bridge<br />

connected the sister cities.<br />

Benjamin F. Yoakum, magnate of the St.<br />

Louis, Brownsville and Mexico Railway, signed<br />

an agreement in 1909 with representatives of<br />

the Mexican National Railway, which made the<br />

railroads equal partners in the Brownsville &<br />

Matamoros Bridge Company. The new<br />

company assumed responsibility for operating<br />

the bridge. Construction got underway in April<br />

1909 with the Foundation Company of New<br />

York building the bridge’s concrete<br />

foundations. The Wisconsin Bridge Company<br />

erected the steel spans that were riveted into<br />

place. The first permanent bridge built across<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was 227 feet long and cost<br />

approximately $225,000. The B & M Bridge<br />

was designed as a swing bridge to<br />

accommodate steamboat traffic on the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, but by the time it was completed in<br />

July 1910, river traffic had ceased. The bridge<br />

was swung open once for inspection in 1910<br />

and has never been opened since, although<br />

much of the gearing mechanism is still in place.<br />

When the bridge opened to the public in<br />

December 1910, pedestrians, horses, wagons<br />

and carriages were invited to pay a toll and use<br />

the narrow eighteen-foot wide bridge to cross<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. The toll for a foot passenger,<br />

with or without baggage, was five cents,<br />

although children under seven accompanied<br />

by adults crossed free. A horse and rider paid<br />

a ten cents toll, the same paid by empty carts<br />

and wagons with one draft animal and a<br />

driver. Wagons with yokes of oxen paid<br />

twenty-five cents each; mules and cattle cost<br />

five cents; and sheep and goats were charged<br />

two and one-half cents each. The toll on<br />

merchandise such as vegetables, cotton bales,<br />

and pots and pans was six cents per hundred<br />

pounds. Automobiles paid twenty-five cents<br />

each plus five cents per passenger.<br />

In 1953 the B&M Bridge was widened<br />

three feet to accommodate trucks. As<br />

Brownsville and Matamoros grew, the volume<br />

of traffic increased as well, requiring further<br />

renovation in 1992. In 1997 a four lane<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

240


concrete bridge was constructed next to the<br />

original steel bridge. Ninety years after the<br />

bridge first opened, the concrete addition is<br />

used exclusively for cars while the original<br />

structure crosses only trains.<br />

Today the B&M Bridge Company is an<br />

American corporation owned jointly by the<br />

Union Pacific Railroad and the Federal<br />

Government of Mexico. Four officials of the<br />

Union Pacific Railroad serve on the board of<br />

directors, as do four representatives of the<br />

Mexican Federal government. The bridge is<br />

unique in that all bridge administration,<br />

security, and maintenance services for both<br />

sides of the bridge are managed by a single<br />

operation located on the U.S. side. The most<br />

unusual feature is the fact that all tolls, both<br />

north and south bound, are collected on the<br />

U.S. side. At the B&M border station, U.S.<br />

Customs, Immigration & Naturalization<br />

Service, USDA, T. A. B. C., as well as the Border<br />

Patrol and local law enforcement work side by<br />

side to fulfill their different missions.<br />

Rail traffic has been increasing steadily,<br />

most recently at a rate of twenty-one percent<br />

annually. Steel from the Port of Brownsville<br />

going to Monterrey, auto carriers and grain are<br />

some of the rail shipments. Of the three<br />

international bridges in the Brownsville-<br />

Matamoros area, the B & M currently leads in<br />

the total number of autos passing north and<br />

south. Its toll rates are traditionally lower than<br />

competing bridges.<br />

For many years the B&M Bridge was<br />

referred to as the Old Bridge or Puente Viejo,<br />

acknowledging its history. Now the bridge has<br />

a new marketing concept and nickname: the<br />

Express Bridge. In 1999, the B&M Bridge<br />

introduced Express Cards, convenient prepaid<br />

toll cards. Available for purchase at every<br />

B&M tollbooth, the cards come in $15 and<br />

$30 versions and can be used by both<br />

northbound and southbound traffic. The toll<br />

taker simply punches out a fare each time the<br />

card is presented. One free trip is awarded for<br />

every ten crossings. Within eighteen months<br />

of its initiation, more than eight percent of<br />

bridge traffic was using the Express Card to<br />

cross daily between Brownsville and<br />

Matamoros. Recently the B&M Bridge<br />

completed a bypass that gives cars access to<br />

the bridge when a train is blocking Calle Sexta<br />

in Matamoros. The railroad bridge is also<br />

being upgraded with a $2.5 million<br />

investment in structure and image.<br />

In 1999 the Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission<br />

and the Cameron County <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

Commission dedicated a state historical<br />

marker recognizing the Bridge’s historical<br />

significance. Always attentive to customers<br />

and fiscally conservative for its owners, the<br />

Company envisions becoming the standard of<br />

excellence in the international toll industry.<br />

✧<br />

Above: An early 1900s view of the bridge<br />

from the U.S. side.<br />

Below: A 2000 aerial photograph of the<br />

Brownsville & Matamoros Bridge Border<br />

Station showing auto and rail bridges.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HNTB ENGINEERING.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

241


STARR-<br />

CAMARGO<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

BRIDGE<br />

✧<br />

Right: Arnold J. Vale and his wife, Miriam,<br />

in 1980. He realized his great-grandfather’s<br />

dream of an international port of entry with<br />

the Starr-Camargo International Bridge.<br />

Below: The original Starr-Camargo<br />

International Bridge first opened for traffic<br />

in 1966.<br />

First opened to traffic in August 1966, the<br />

two-lane, privately owned Starr-Camargo<br />

International Bridge was the realization of a<br />

vision for international trade between two<br />

countries conceived by John Vale (circa 1850).<br />

These visions of trade, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as a navigable<br />

river, as well as the region’s proximity to<br />

Monterrey, continued to resonate in his mind.<br />

His son, Joseph Hillary Vale, a U.S.<br />

Customs inspector in Roma, shared the same<br />

vision. Later, his son, Samuel P. Vale,<br />

continued what had almost become a<br />

generational obsession to link trade routes in<br />

this region with the construction of an<br />

international port of entry. Four generations<br />

later, the Vale family mettle resurfaced when<br />

Arnold J. Vale, great-grandson of John Vale,<br />

finally turned his vision into a reality.<br />

Recently, Miriam Vale reminisced about seeing<br />

her late husband Arnold and his friend,<br />

Mike Valadez, clearing the land for a bridge<br />

site. “Today we celebrate the razing of the<br />

physical remnants of a bygone era to make way<br />

for the rebirth of the Starr-Camargo<br />

International Bridge.”<br />

Miriam Vale smiled as she recounted an<br />

experience reflecting trans-border cooperation<br />

years before the North American Free Trade<br />

Agreement. A plaque affixed to the middle of<br />

the bridge commemorates how the Starr-<br />

Camargo Bridge was opened as most of the<br />

town of Camargo was evacuated into <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City during Hurricane Beulah in 1967.<br />

“We opened the bridge and allowed their<br />

residents to escape the flooding, and then they<br />

returned to their homes when the water<br />

subsided,” she recalled.<br />

Prior to the existence of the bridge, a ferry<br />

once served as the only connection between the<br />

sister cities of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City and Camargo,<br />

Tamaulipas. One can still see the wooden posts<br />

with steel braces resting quietly in the noonday<br />

shade of the bridge superstructure in testimony<br />

of a bygone era. On September 21, 1959, the<br />

Congress of the United States approved Public<br />

Law 86-343 that authorized the construction<br />

and operation of the port of entry, and the rest<br />

is history.<br />

“This crossing has become the architectural<br />

icon driving regional economic development,”<br />

says Samuel F. Vale, a fifth generation Vale and<br />

president of the Starr-Camargo Bridge Company.<br />

“We have only seen a preview of the<br />

economic development building blocks that will<br />

provide the foundation for our future growth in<br />

Starr County and in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.”<br />

At a recent U.S./Mexico Binational<br />

Committee meeting in Scottsdale, Arizona,<br />

one of the members described this port of<br />

entry as “efficient and unique” due to the level<br />

of binational cooperation shown between the<br />

public and private sectors. The attitude<br />

displayed was “finding solutions to problems<br />

before they became problems.” Traffic was not<br />

allowed to stack up for too long because the<br />

public and private sector immediately began<br />

searching for international business solutions.<br />

Today, Samuel F. Vale continues the Vale<br />

family tradition of building and contributing to<br />

the development of the economies of the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

242


United States and Mexico. He presides over<br />

eleven corporations, serves on numerous local,<br />

national and international boards, and<br />

constantly promotes international trade. Still,<br />

he finds time to exchange greetings during<br />

impromptu visits from old friends,<br />

acquaintances and occasionally from dignitaries<br />

from the three countries that now dominate<br />

world trade.<br />

Days away from the formal dedication of a<br />

new state-of-the-art port of entry, one would<br />

believe that this satiates the drive to build.<br />

However, nothing could be further from the<br />

truth. A new two-lane, southbound bridge is<br />

now the order of the day. The Mexican<br />

government shares the vision as well, and is<br />

also planning to expand their port facilities.<br />

Trade has continued to dominate the<br />

regional business landscape, and one can<br />

once again hear Samuel F. Vale say that we<br />

must continue “Linking Friendships and<br />

Economies of the U.S.A. and Mexico.” This<br />

has become so ingrained in the Vale tradition<br />

that it is the company motto, seen on business<br />

cards and company stationery.<br />

Today, Camargo, founded on March 5,<br />

1749 by 30 pioneer families, retains the<br />

distinction of being the first Mexican Customs<br />

Port of Entry on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>. Located<br />

along La Ruta Corta, the short route that<br />

connects Starr County to Monterrey, the City<br />

of Camargo shares a vision for the future and<br />

is jointly supporting regional development.<br />

The Starr-Camargo International Bridge is<br />

120 miles northeast of Monterrey, Nuevo Leon,<br />

and the largest industrial center in Northern<br />

Mexico. The activity in the region continues to<br />

be driven by its retail, commercial, agricultural<br />

and tourist industries. New oil and gas<br />

exploration in the Burgos Cuenca region of<br />

Northern Tamaulipas has prompted the revival<br />

of the petrochemical industry by PEMEX<br />

through BJ Oilfield Services.<br />

Visitors flock to historical sites such as Fort<br />

Ringgold, the General Robert E. Lee House, La<br />

Borde House, Our Lady of Lourdes Grotto, and<br />

a host of natural and historical treasures found<br />

along Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Historic</strong>al Corridor.<br />

Growth is inevitable, and this family’s<br />

vision has left an indelible signature in time.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Samuel F. Vale and his wife, Linda,<br />

are the present owners of the bridge that<br />

links the sister cities of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City and<br />

Camargo, Tamaulipas, Mexico.<br />

Below: Architectural perspective of the new<br />

Starr-Camargo International Bridge and its<br />

port of entry facilities at <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

243


MAGIC VALLEY<br />

ELECTRIC<br />

COOPERATIVE,<br />

INC.<br />

✧<br />

The first pole to be set in Magic <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Electric Cooperative’s rural electric system.<br />

The ceremony took place on June 7, 1938.<br />

Present for the historic occasion were (front,<br />

left to right): J. E. Wilder, V. W. Bernard,<br />

Judge B. H. Oxford, George McCain, R. M.<br />

King, George Darnell, Helen Cronkite<br />

Dickman, and L. H. Henry. Back row: Mr.<br />

Griffin (left) and W. J. McKnight.<br />

Saturday, May 11, 1935, was just another<br />

spring day to millions of Americans. The<br />

send-a-dime chain letter craze was at its<br />

height, Rear Admiral Byrd had returned from<br />

another trip to Antarctica, and the Cleveland<br />

Indians and the New York Yankees led the<br />

major baseball leagues. President Franklin D.<br />

Roosevelt finished his week’s work, including<br />

signing of Executive Order 7037, creating an<br />

agency to begin a rural electrification program<br />

that would transform rural society.<br />

In 1937 most of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> towns<br />

in South Texas were well on their way to<br />

becoming electrified. It was not profitable for<br />

private power companies to provide service to<br />

sparsely populated rural areas; farmers and<br />

ranchers were left to their icehouses, hand<br />

pumps, and oil lamps. So a small group of local<br />

farmers and ranchers signed a $200,000 note<br />

and began constructing the first electrical<br />

distribution lines in rural South Texas. Within<br />

eleven months, 75 miles of electric lines<br />

provided power to 125 homes.<br />

From the date of its state charter, September<br />

13, 1937, Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative,<br />

Inc. (MVEC) has been among the best in the<br />

nation. The original loan to build electrical<br />

infrastructure was repaid fourteen years ahead<br />

of schedule. It was the first rural electric<br />

cooperative in the nation to make an across the<br />

board capital credits refund (margin/profits) to<br />

its members, and the second in the nation and<br />

the first in Texas to take advantage of two-way<br />

radios in service trucks, dramatically increasing<br />

efficiency to its member/owners.<br />

During its first forty years, the primary<br />

goal of MVEC was to bring electricity to the<br />

rural areas of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of South<br />

Texas. In 1975 the newly created Texas Public<br />

Utility Commission (TPUC) granted MVEC<br />

certification to serve in all general areas into<br />

which lines had been extended, and MVEC’s<br />

mission became one of improving reliability<br />

and containing expenses, to ensure the<br />

members continued to receive reliable energy<br />

at the lowest possible cost. As the rural area<br />

grew to become an urban community, farms<br />

and ranches gave way to urban subdivisions,<br />

schools, commercial businesses, hospitals,<br />

and state prisons.<br />

Today, many electric co-op consumers<br />

don’t remember the first day electricity came<br />

to their homes. Electricity was probably<br />

already on when they moved in–an automatic<br />

thing, like the telephone line and running<br />

water. The cooperative philosophy is still<br />

vitally important today. The co-op is locally<br />

owned and operated, led by a board of<br />

members/directors elected by the<br />

membership. The co-op is not driven by<br />

profit motives or return on equity for<br />

stockholders. It provides service to members<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

244


at cost. Any monies above cost are ultimately<br />

returned to members as “capital credit”<br />

refunds. As a member of state and national<br />

electric cooperatives organizations, MVEC<br />

benefits from economy of scale in purchases<br />

and specialized equipment repairs, employee<br />

and director trainings, safety and benefits,<br />

and strong grass roots lobbying at state and<br />

national levels.<br />

When the airline, railroad and telephone<br />

industries were deregulated, consumers did not<br />

have the organized protection that co-ops can<br />

offer this time around. Now, through such<br />

alliances as Tuchstone Energy ® , the cooperatives’<br />

national brand, cooperatives can pool resources<br />

and brainpower to ensure that members get the<br />

superior service that they deserve.<br />

Deregulation under Senate Bill 7 will change<br />

Texas’ electric utility industry forever.<br />

Beginning in January 2002, consumers will be<br />

able to choose their electrical service provider.<br />

MVEC’s preparations began years ago, and<br />

include a contract with a low-cost generator to<br />

give the co-op flexibility in the deregulated<br />

market. Beginning in July 2001, MVEC will<br />

discontinue receiving electrical service from<br />

the investor-owned utility in South Texas,<br />

allowing MVEC to offer member/owners a<br />

substantial decrease in the cost of electricity.<br />

Regardless of possible legislative changes in the<br />

interim, the co-op will adhere to its two core<br />

commitments: 1.) all consumers must benefit,<br />

and 2.) any restructuring scheme must ensure<br />

service reliability for member/consumers.<br />

MVEC serves portions of five counties—<br />

Cameron, Hidalgo, Willacy, Kenedy, and Starr.<br />

With 3,615 miles of energized line, MVEC<br />

serves 58,825 member/owners, and has a net<br />

worth approaching $145 million. It is the<br />

third largest electric distribution co-op in<br />

Texas, adding some 400 new customers per<br />

month. With headquarters in Mercedes, it<br />

also has division consumer service offices in<br />

Edinburg, Brownsville, and Pharr, and<br />

twenty-three convenient pay centers<br />

throughout the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The future of Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric<br />

Cooperative will continue to lie where it<br />

always has—in the hands of its members, who<br />

have always sought self-sufficiency. When the<br />

owners are also the customers, they have a<br />

common stake in the organization–a share of<br />

the rewards and a right to expect the best,<br />

most reliable and economical services<br />

available. This is the goal of the co-op—to<br />

enhance the quality of life, in a safe manner for<br />

its member/owners, and its <strong>Valley</strong> residents.<br />

✧<br />

Top: When the community needs new<br />

service, Linemen Leo Garza and Carlos<br />

Guajardo are ready to help.<br />

Middle: Customer Service Representative<br />

Esmeralda Elizondo assists co-op member<br />

Sandra Herrera.<br />

Bottom: In the control room, Blanca<br />

Werbiski and Ben Garcia keep power<br />

flowing to co-op members.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

245


PHARR/REYNOSA<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

BRIDGE<br />

✧<br />

The Pharr International Bridge<br />

Administration Building.<br />

The Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge is<br />

the longest border crossing in the world.<br />

Strategically located and environmentally sensitive,<br />

the international gateway links the<br />

south Texas City of Pharr with Reynosa,<br />

Mexico. Although it is the longest bridge<br />

spanning the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the Pharr/Reynosa<br />

Bridge offers one of the fastest crossing times<br />

for commercial vehicles.<br />

The question often arises about why the<br />

Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge is 3.2 miles<br />

long yet crosses over a river approximately 330<br />

feet wide. Ecology determined the bridge’s<br />

design that was many years in development.<br />

The City of Pharr began its quest to secure an<br />

international bridge more than thirty years ago.<br />

In 1963 Pharr city attorney Ramiro Martinez<br />

requested U.S. Senator Ralph Yarborough to<br />

assist the Pharr Municipal Bridge Corporation in<br />

the construction of an international bridge. By<br />

that point, the annexation of land adjoining U.S.<br />

281 down to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> was already under<br />

discussion, but little progress was made in the<br />

next ten years. Then the passage of a federal law<br />

prohibiting private ownership of international<br />

bridges spurred Pharr Mayor A.C. Jaime to<br />

organize the city’s resources to build the<br />

Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge, and<br />

succeeding city administrators continued the<br />

campaign.<br />

Five different bridge concepts were<br />

reviewed before the design of what is sometimes<br />

called the Cadillac of bridges was chosen.<br />

Building an international bridge required the<br />

coordination of U.S. and Mexican federal and<br />

state agencies, each with diverse goals. The<br />

permitting process involved the International<br />

Boundary and Water Commission, Texas<br />

Natural Resources Conservation Commission,<br />

Department of Transportation, Parks and<br />

Wildlife, to name a few.<br />

The International Boundary and Water<br />

Commission wanted a bridge designed so that<br />

the river at flood stage encounters the least<br />

amount of resistance to water flow possible.<br />

An equally important local consideration was<br />

the environmental factor: the benefit of<br />

providing a wildlife corridor along the banks<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, eventually to run from the<br />

Gulf up river to Falcon Dam. With its<br />

provision for unimpeded habitat for native<br />

birds, animals and plants, the Pharr/Reynosa<br />

International Bridge is considered the most<br />

ecologically sound and the most<br />

environmentally friendly of any international<br />

bridge along the United States border.<br />

The City of Pharr finally completed the<br />

Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge in 1995.<br />

Bridge facilities include four southbound<br />

lanes with an additional four lanes ready for<br />

expansion. The bridge crosses above fields<br />

planted in cantaloupe and other produce and<br />

terminates in Mexico near a statuary park<br />

filled with Mexican cultural, historical and<br />

religious figures.<br />

Pharr is increasingly a focal point of<br />

transportation and distribution businesses in<br />

Hidalgo County, and the bridge’s strategic<br />

location is a major contributor to this<br />

development. The city is part of the McAllen<br />

Metropolitan Statistical Area, which is among<br />

the fastest growing MSAs in the nation. U.S.<br />

Highway 281, which runs directly to the<br />

Pharr/Reynosa Bridge, is one of the three<br />

major roadways linking the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

to regional markets and to the north and west.<br />

This highway intersects the <strong>Valley</strong>’s major eastwest<br />

expressway making it easily accessible.<br />

Less than two miles south of the Bridge is<br />

Reynosa Industrial Park, home to more than<br />

seventeen maquiladora plants with another<br />

industrial park being developed nearby. The<br />

economic benefits of the Pharr/Reynosa Bridge<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

246


✧<br />

Above: Traffic headed southbound<br />

into Mexico.<br />

Below: Commercial traffic going to Mexico.<br />

extend beyond the companies involved in<br />

assembly operations at the maquilas. Trucking<br />

firms, packing sheds, light and heavy<br />

manufacturing concerns, warehouses, and<br />

customs brokerages are some of the businesses<br />

drawn to Pharr because the bridge makes<br />

Mexico so accessible. Once across the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>, traffic can turn down Mexico Highway<br />

2 and to go into Matamoros or into Reynosa<br />

and then on to Monterrey and other tourist or<br />

commercial regions of Tamaulipas and Mexico.<br />

Reynosa International airport is also within five<br />

miles of the Pharr/Reynosa Bridge.<br />

The federal facilities at the Pharr International<br />

Bridge include four inspection stations for cars<br />

and four super booths for trucks. Two docking<br />

areas are capable of handling fifty trucks at once.<br />

The U.S. Customs Service has installed both<br />

drive-through and portable X-ray machines for<br />

cargo inspection which speeds the process of<br />

moving cargo between countries. A cold storage<br />

area is accessible for perishables when they must<br />

be off-loaded, although produce companies have<br />

found their perishable goods are crossed more<br />

rapidly at Pharr/Reynosa than at older bridges.<br />

The border station accommodates the USDA,<br />

Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission, the<br />

immigration, and customs, along with city and<br />

county law enforcement, the Border Patrol and<br />

the bridge administration.<br />

In 2000 a total of 2,118,877 vehicles crossed<br />

the bridge southbound, bringing in revenues of<br />

$4.86 million. Private cars and trucks accounted<br />

for eighty-eight percent of the traffic.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

247


VALLEY<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

AIRPORT<br />

More than half of all <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> air<br />

travelers pass through Harlingen’s <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport, gateway for business and<br />

recreational trips to South Texas. <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport, home of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

longest runways, is within forty miles of more<br />

than ninety percent of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

population and its attractions. Long the leader in<br />

passenger travel with non-stop flights to seven<br />

airports, VIA’s easily accessible location has fueled<br />

substantial growth in air cargo traffic, particularly<br />

express parcel capacity. Now the hub for FedEx,<br />

UPS, Airborne Express, and integrated cargo<br />

service on the border, VIA has become a staging<br />

area for international parcel shipments.<br />

In 1947 the All-<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Airport<br />

opened at the former Harlingen Army Air Field,<br />

a World War II aerial gunnery-training base.<br />

When the U.S. Air Force reactivated the base<br />

during the Korean War, the city’s municipal<br />

airport shifted west to Harvey Richards Field.<br />

The closure of Harlingen Air Force Base in<br />

1962 created temporary economic stress for the<br />

city, but led to the 1966 opening of Harlingen<br />

Municipal Airport using the military runways<br />

and facilities. Growing with the city, a new<br />

Harlingen Air Terminal was built in 1978, and<br />

1983 saw the completion of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport’s terminal building. <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport underwent a major<br />

expansion in 1991 and in 2001 completed a<br />

comprehensive facilities upgrade, including<br />

revamped ticket counters and expanded parking.<br />

Southwest Airlines, Continental Express,<br />

American Eagle, and the scheduled charter Sun<br />

Country Airlines provide travelers with their<br />

choice of more than forty inbound and<br />

outbound flights daily. Southwest Airlines<br />

began flying into Harlingen more than twentyfive<br />

years ago, selecting Harlingen, city code<br />

HRL, as its first expansion airport.<br />

Always innovative and oriented to<br />

passengers’ needs, VIA was the first in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> to offer jet bridge service, gate<br />

area internet access, and work cubicles. A<br />

KidsPort play area lets active children enjoy<br />

themselves while waiting for a flight. Flight<br />

information display screens are readily<br />

available for travelers while the airport’s<br />

website, www.Iflyharlingen.com, provides a<br />

convenient means of checking on real-time<br />

arrival and departure information. The<br />

International Arrivals Building is designed to<br />

process 360 passengers per hour.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> International Airport is also home to<br />

thriving fixed base operators, which offer a full<br />

menu of services for private, charter, cargo,<br />

and medical evacuation planes.<br />

At the end of the twentieth century, <strong>Valley</strong><br />

International Airport was recognized as Texas’<br />

only growing small hub airport and, some<br />

might say, the gateway to the future of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

248


World War II was nearing its end when what<br />

has become the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership<br />

was organized in 1944. Civic leaders from the<br />

still young <strong>Valley</strong> cities and towns met to study<br />

the need for regional planning once the war was<br />

over. The area’s agricultural economy flourished<br />

during the war as fruits, vegetables and cotton<br />

helped supply the huge war machine. Military<br />

bases in Harlingen and Mission helped train<br />

manpower and also provided a boost for the<br />

economy. Leaders realized that changes would<br />

come once peace finally came.<br />

They formed the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Planning Board to provide a clearinghouse and<br />

planning organization to promote economic<br />

diversification, better highways, improved<br />

marketing of farm products, increased tourism,<br />

and more non-farm jobs for the growing<br />

population. They chose Weslaco as their<br />

headquarters due to its central location and<br />

helpful business community, which provided<br />

initial office space. Soon it became the Lower<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce,<br />

then the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of<br />

Commerce, or simply <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber.<br />

In 1974 the regional chamber moved into its<br />

present headquarters at FM 1015 and Expressway<br />

83 between Weslaco and Mercedes. A major<br />

expansion was completed in 1993 to make it the<br />

beautiful and efficient structure it is today.<br />

By the time it celebrated its fiftieth anniversary<br />

in 1994, many organizations had been formed<br />

under its umbrella, some quickly becoming<br />

independent entities. The <strong>Valley</strong> Sportsmen’s<br />

Club started here, as did Texas Citrus Mutual, the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers, the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Proud Environmental Council, and the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Empowerment Zone.<br />

Other organizations stayed under its<br />

umbrella and are administered by what became<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership in 1995.<br />

These include the Regional Mobility Task Force,<br />

now working to bring interstate highways to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> as part of the I-69 Corridor; Citizens<br />

Against Lawsuit Abuse; the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Water Committee and the <strong>Valley</strong> Agricultural<br />

Research & Development Corporation.<br />

The Partnership also continues its regional<br />

chamber functions to promote the economic<br />

and strategic importance of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> as a region and to provide quality research<br />

and technical support to business, industry and<br />

government. It maintains a wide range of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

wide statistics and publishes many business and<br />

tourism publications. Legislative liaison and<br />

advocacy for <strong>Valley</strong> interests make up an<br />

important part of the Partnership’s agenda.<br />

Since all of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> borders the<br />

Mexican State of Tamaulipas, the Partnership<br />

created an office for the <strong>Valley</strong> in Ciudad<br />

Victoria, the state’s capital, in 1993. This office<br />

assists area businesses in conducting business<br />

across the border, maintains close ties with<br />

Tamaulipas state officials, seeks to improve flow<br />

at the international bridges, works with<br />

Customs, and was instrumental in the retention<br />

of the U. S. Consulate in Matamoros.<br />

Since it began in 1944, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Partnership has represented the <strong>Valley</strong> business<br />

community with its mission to improve the<br />

business climate and regional quality of life. Its<br />

basic support comes from its business members.<br />

Many of these members are represented in<br />

the “Sharing the Heritage” section of this book,<br />

which brings information on organizations,<br />

businesses and individuals that have helped to<br />

build the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of today. The<br />

Partnership feels privileged to sponsor the<br />

publication of <strong>Historic</strong> <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, which<br />

brings the history of the region to life in words<br />

and pictures from its early Spanish occupation<br />

to its entry into the New Millennium. Its hope is<br />

that you will treasure the book and keep it as a<br />

memento for your children and their children to<br />

show them what the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> was like<br />

up to the year 2000.<br />

RIO GRANDE<br />

VALLEY<br />

PARTNERSHIP<br />

✧<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership<br />

headquarters on FM 1015 and Expressway<br />

83 in Weslaco, Texas.<br />

BUILDING A GREATER RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

249


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

250


EDUCATION<br />

the schools, school districts, and universities<br />

equipping future generations of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

residents with the tools they need to succeed<br />

La Joya Independent School District...............................................252<br />

University of Texas at Brownsville and Texas Southmost College.........254<br />

South Texas Vo-Tech....................................................................256<br />

Sharyland Independent School District ...........................................258<br />

Weslaco Independent School District ..............................................260<br />

The University of Texas Pan-American ...........................................262<br />

COSTEP and STHEA ...................................................................264<br />

San Benito Independent School District ..........................................266<br />

South Texas Community College ....................................................268<br />

McAllen Independent School District ..............................................270<br />

Raymondville Independent School District.......................................272<br />

Edinburg Consolidated Independent School District ..........................274<br />

Roma Independent School District .................................................276<br />

South Texas Independent School District.........................................278<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City Consolidated Independent School District ................280<br />

Mercedes Independent School District ............................................282<br />

Texas A&M and USDA Research Centers.........................................284<br />

Marine Military Academy.............................................................286<br />

Texas State Technical College Harlingen .........................................287<br />

Region One Education Service Center.............................................288<br />

Deborah Case Dance Academy ......................................................289<br />

✧<br />

Top: This Santa Rosa High School was<br />

dedicated in 1928, and the school had a<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>wide championship football team that<br />

same year. A new high school was built in<br />

recent years and this school now houses<br />

younger students.<br />

COURTESY OF THE WIEGAND FAMILY.<br />

Bottom: One of the buildings on the site<br />

formerly occupied by Fort Brown is the<br />

UTB/TSC Library, which has an extensive<br />

collection of early books, magazines,<br />

newspapers, photographs, and other<br />

memorabilia of South Texas and Northern<br />

Mexico.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

251


LA JOYA<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Top: Amancio J. Chapa Jr., La Joya School<br />

Board president, presents an award to Alma<br />

Ortega, principal of E.B. Reyna Elementary<br />

School, for being a Recognized Campus for<br />

the 1998-99 year.<br />

Below: Two elementary students are<br />

learning at high levels using a hands-on<br />

technology program.<br />

Professional educators in the<br />

La Joya Independent School<br />

District are dedicated to continuing<br />

the district’s tradition of<br />

excellence through development<br />

of the unique gifts and talents<br />

of all its students. Staff,<br />

board members, and the community<br />

cooperate to ensure that<br />

all LJISD students have access<br />

to quality instructional programs<br />

to help them reach their<br />

full potential. Committed to the<br />

concept that educational excellence<br />

is every student’s right,<br />

the district seeks to foster a climate<br />

continually affirming the<br />

worth and diversity of all students<br />

and strengthening the<br />

links among self-concept, learning,<br />

and behavior.<br />

Located in the western part of Hidalgo<br />

County, La Joya ISD encompasses an area of<br />

over 226 square miles, and is one of the fastestgrowing<br />

school districts in Texas, with an estimated<br />

increase of 700 students annually.<br />

Its strong educational history dates back to<br />

the first half of the nineteenth century, when<br />

citizens from a few towns and villages established<br />

a place of learning. One of these early<br />

schools, built in western Hidalgo County’s<br />

Havana in 1849, was a rock and adobe structure<br />

offering students an education as strong as<br />

the building. This would later become known<br />

as the La Joya School. One of La Joya’s pioneer<br />

educators was Nellie Leo Schunior, who taught<br />

from 1913 to 1918, and was joined by<br />

Guadalupe (Ninfa) Ornelas, an Old Reynosa<br />

resident, who crossed the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> by boat<br />

daily to teach. Schunior, who dreamed of building<br />

a high school to serve communities west of<br />

Mission to the Hidalgo County line, donated fifteen<br />

acres of her own land for that purpose.<br />

Although she did not live to see this dream<br />

become a reality, the Nellie Schunior Memorial<br />

High School, which was built in 1920 and had<br />

eighteen teachers, became part of the newly<br />

formed Tabasco Independent School District.<br />

Today’s La Joya ISD includes twenty campuses—thirteen<br />

elementary schools, four<br />

middle schools, an alternative education center,<br />

a ninth grade campus, and La Joya High<br />

School. The district employs a professional<br />

and support staff of 2,420 and had a peak<br />

enrollment of 17,163 during 1999-2000, with<br />

Hispanic students accounting for 99.5 percent<br />

of the enrollment.<br />

To meet their educational goals, LJISD’s<br />

educators and administrators have developed<br />

some of the most successful programs in<br />

Texas. These include implementation of:<br />

• A bilingual program placing equal emphasis<br />

and value on the acquisition of both<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

252


Spanish and English, the languages of<br />

both the school and the community<br />

• A gifted program promoting successful<br />

critical and creative thinking in all the<br />

district’s students<br />

• Internet, distance learning, and multicultural<br />

programs, to offer students experiences<br />

to prepare students for life-long<br />

success<br />

• Fine arts programs including choir,<br />

orchestra, band, Mariachi “Los Coyotes,”<br />

Grupo Folklorico “Tabasco,” drama, and<br />

UIL activities<br />

These programs will be augmented beginning<br />

in the 2000-2001 school year by two new<br />

LJISD programs—the Health Science Academy<br />

and the Academy of Communications, Visual<br />

and Performing Arts. Both have been made possible<br />

through generous community support.<br />

The four-year Health Science Academy is<br />

designed to prepare students for the competitive<br />

field of medicine, whether it involves postsecondary<br />

education or entering the medical<br />

profession job market. Since 1985, LJISD has<br />

offered health science and technology classes.<br />

This new program offers countless opportunities<br />

to learn about these fields in a unique,<br />

hands-on environment. Plans include careerrelated<br />

curriculum, customized degree plans,<br />

job shadowing, concurrent enrollment opportunities,<br />

and participation in competitive<br />

events, community service, and field visits to<br />

medical facilities outside the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Plans are to offer opportunities for students to<br />

become certified as an Electrocardiograph<br />

Technician, Pharmacy Technician, Nurses’<br />

Aide, or Licensed Vocational Nurse.<br />

The Fine Arts Academy, the first of its kind<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, will offer a specialized<br />

four-year Fine Arts curriculum for high school<br />

students. Its mission is to provide extensive<br />

education in the arts, building on students’<br />

talents and academic abilities to achieve<br />

excellence through performance. Concurrent<br />

enrollment will be available, and students will<br />

attend professional performances and perform<br />

in lab recitals several times annually.<br />

Through the core schools and the new academies,<br />

Schunior’s dream continues today in the<br />

hearts of students and staff at La Joya ISD. Her<br />

ideals and values of offering an education to<br />

everyone have been incorporated in the La Joya<br />

ISD mission statement–that all students will<br />

have access to quality educational opportunities<br />

that enable them to perform at high levels.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Three workers stand on the northeast<br />

side of the 1500-seat La Joya Performing<br />

Arts Center.<br />

Below: La Joya Mariachi “Los Coyotes”<br />

pose with Ann Richards after dedication<br />

ceremonies for the Ann Richards<br />

Middle School.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

253


UNIVERSITY OF<br />

TEXAS AT<br />

BROWNSVILLE<br />

AND<br />

TEXAS<br />

SOUTHMOST<br />

COLLEGE<br />

Few universities and colleges match the<br />

colorful past of The University of Texas at<br />

Brownsville and Texas Southmost College<br />

campus. Centered on Fort Brown, a former<br />

U.S. Army post built during the Mexican<br />

American War of 1846-48, the campus’<br />

illustrious history is rivaled only by its dynamic<br />

present. UTB/TSC has attained excellence in<br />

teaching and research while becoming an<br />

integral part of the bicultural, bilingual City of<br />

Brownsville and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Just as unique as the campus, the partnership<br />

of The University of Texas at Brownsville and<br />

Texas Southmost College (UTB/TSC) is the only<br />

arrangement of its type in Texas. The two<br />

institutions have forged a seamless transition<br />

between a regional university with upper level<br />

courses and a community college with a flexible<br />

open-admissions policy. By eliminating barriers<br />

for students while lowering administrative costs,<br />

UTB/TSC is fulfilling the educational needs of its<br />

nearly 10,000 students with a one-stop<br />

education location. The institution is nationally<br />

ranked as a top producer of Hispanic graduates,<br />

particularly in math and foreign languages.<br />

“Our goal is to reach 20,000 students by<br />

2010,” says Dr. Juliet V. Garcia, president,<br />

predicting an increase of one thousand students<br />

annually. By 2010 UTB/TSC expects to offer a<br />

full spectrum of associate and undergraduate<br />

degrees along with master’s programs relevant<br />

to professionals working in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. UTB/TSC ranks as the fastest growing<br />

campus in The University of Texas System as<br />

students respond to the opportunity to pursue<br />

occupational and technical certificates,<br />

traditional academic degrees, and continuing<br />

education credits in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The projected doubling of enrollment is a<br />

signification evolution from 1926 when<br />

Brownsville civic clubs, the chamber of<br />

commerce, school district, and a pastors’<br />

alliance led a campaign to create a junior<br />

college. That year the Junior College of the<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> enrolled eighty-four<br />

students. A name change to Brownsville Junior<br />

College in 1931 was followed by the college’s<br />

move to the Fort Brown campus in 1944.<br />

World War II veterans skyrocketed enrollment<br />

to 1,238 in 1948, and in 1950 the school was<br />

renamed Texas Southmost College.<br />

In 1991 Texas Southmost College and The<br />

University of Texas System formed a partnership,<br />

which led to the establishment in 1998<br />

of The University of Texas at Brownsville, a<br />

full four-year institution. The school welcomed<br />

its first freshman class that year.<br />

Garcia, who was the first Hispanic female to<br />

be named a university president, voices<br />

UTB/TSC’s celebrated commitment to academic<br />

achievement: “Here students at all levels<br />

develop skills of critical thinking, quantitative<br />

analysis, and effective communication that will<br />

sustain them in lifelong learning.” Baccalaureate<br />

degrees are awarded in twenty-three fields as<br />

diverse as criminal justice, fine arts, respiratory<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

254


therapy, and computer sciences with Master’s<br />

degrees available in eleven programs.<br />

UTB/TSC’s mainstay is its School of<br />

Education which last year had 2,928 students<br />

enrolled. The School of Education, together<br />

with the School of Health Sciences, the School<br />

of Business, the College of Liberal Arts and<br />

the College of Science, Mathematics and<br />

Technology, awarded 484 baccalaureate and<br />

188 masters degrees in 1999. The same year,<br />

students earned 410 associate degrees and 208<br />

certificates in fields such as drafting, electronics,<br />

and nursing.<br />

Spreading over 337 acres, UTB/TSC is<br />

undergoing a growth spurt in the new century<br />

that includes a $22.5 million Life and Health<br />

Science building, a Technical Training Center, a<br />

new Student Union and the Public Health<br />

component for the South Texas Regional<br />

Academic Health Center. The Technical<br />

Training Center will find new ways to produce<br />

a skilled workforce, which supports the technical<br />

and occupational training needs of regional<br />

businesses, while providing professional<br />

development opportunities in its 40,000-<br />

square-foot complex.<br />

As UTB/TSC meets the challenges of growth,<br />

it continues to honor its heritage. Gorgas Hall,<br />

the one-time Fort Brown hospital with its<br />

breeze-blessed arcades, now houses the<br />

President’s Office. The name commemorates the<br />

Fort Brown medical officer whose pioneering<br />

research led to the conquest of yellow fever.<br />

Around the campus, Spanish-style arches on<br />

new buildings complement graceful older<br />

buildings of weathered brick, all linked by a<br />

winding paseo. The Arnulfo L. Oliviera Library<br />

is a tree-lined walk away from the recently<br />

completed Science and Engineering and<br />

Technology Building and the new bookstore that<br />

is open to the community. The Sid Richardson<br />

Art Gallery, the Distinguished Lecture Series,<br />

and Patron of the Arts are part of the cultural<br />

excitement at UTB/TSC, balanced by a full<br />

calendar of sports events and entertainment.<br />

UTB/TSC’s administration and its faculty of<br />

458 are confronting the challenges facing higher<br />

education in the nation’s fastest growing region<br />

with vision, passion and competency. To prepare<br />

the next generation of students, UTB/TSC’s<br />

GEAR UP program works with the region’s middle<br />

and high school students, giving them access<br />

to information, financial aid, and the skills to<br />

succeed in college. The future may include a virtual<br />

university without borders, a bi-literate<br />

diploma, and students achieving academic<br />

excellence in yet unexplored fields.<br />

The partnership of The University of Texas<br />

at Brownsville and Texas Southmost College<br />

continues to extend a bridge to quality higher<br />

education and progress for students and the<br />

entire community.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

255


SOUTH TEXAS<br />

VOCATIONAL-<br />

TECHNICAL<br />

INSTITUTE<br />

“For twenty-seven years, we’ve been<br />

educating the <strong>Valley</strong>’s workforce from<br />

Brownsville to Roma,” says South Texas Vo-<br />

Tech President /CEO Elma G. Rodriguez. The<br />

oldest existing privately owned vocational<br />

and technical school in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

South Texas Vo-Tech provides short-term<br />

intensive training programs for skills in high<br />

demand. Their students gain a competitive<br />

edge in the job market.<br />

“Not everyone has the time, money, or<br />

ability to attend a two or four year college,”<br />

says Rodriguez who co-founded the Texas<br />

Language Academy in 1973 with her husband<br />

Carlos Rodriguez. Initially offering classes in<br />

Spanish and English as a Second language,<br />

the school soon recognized the region’s<br />

need for vocational training in the fields of<br />

allied health, business, childcare, computers<br />

and legal related occupations. It began<br />

offering courses in these fields and in 1983<br />

changed its name to South Texas Vocational-<br />

Technical Institute, also known as South<br />

Texas Vo-Tech.<br />

With more than 450 students enrolled in<br />

eleven programs of study at campuses in<br />

McAllen and Weslaco, South Texas Vo-Tech is<br />

an important element in job skill education on<br />

the border. STVT’s fields of study include<br />

Nurse Assistant LTC/Home Health Aide,<br />

Pharmacy Technician, Clinical Laboratory<br />

Technician, Patient Care Technician, Medical<br />

Office Specialist, Child Care and Development,<br />

Legal Office Specialist, Paralegal/Legal<br />

Assistant, Computer Accounting Specialist,<br />

Computer Office Specialist, and Sales and<br />

Marketing Associate.<br />

“We set ourselves up as a stepping stone.<br />

We prepare our students to get out and get<br />

started in a career field,” says Rodriguez.<br />

Many South Texas Vo-Tech students represent<br />

the first generation of their families to enroll<br />

in post-secondary education. STVT’s courses<br />

of intensive study typically last between six<br />

and twelve months. Its state approved<br />

instructors have practical experience in their<br />

fields and teach programs designed with the<br />

employers’ needs in mind. This means the<br />

skills and knowledge acquired at STVT are<br />

immediately applicable on the job.<br />

The Small Business Administration<br />

recognized the impact Elma Rodriguez has<br />

had on the business community when it<br />

named her SBA’s Hidalgo County<br />

Businesswoman of the Year in 1989.<br />

Rodriguez received the award in recognition of<br />

her achievements as a minority business<br />

owner who founded and developed South<br />

Texas Vo-Tech into a vital component in <strong>Valley</strong><br />

education and business.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

256


Rodriguez’s five daughters who have joined<br />

her in the administration of STVT are carrying<br />

on South Texas Vo-Tech’s tradition of<br />

excellence in education. Rosanna Rodriguez is<br />

public relations, marketing, and financial aid<br />

administrator; Sylvia Ann Cardenas is the<br />

Weslaco Campus director; Sandra Lynn May<br />

is curriculum coordinator; Carla Yvonne<br />

Kucia is the McAllen Campus director; and<br />

Laura Liza Arguelles is faculty coordinator. All<br />

five sisters are active in national, state, and<br />

local educational and civic associations.<br />

STVT continues to add new programs to its<br />

curriculum in response to changes in the local<br />

business community. The recently developed<br />

Pharmacy Tech program anticipated new state<br />

regulations for pharmacy employees and was<br />

the first certified South Texas testing site for<br />

that license. Likewise, the new Sales and<br />

Marketing associate program answers a voiced<br />

need for employees with customer service and<br />

merchandising skills.<br />

Beyond actual course work, South Texas Vo-<br />

Tech supports the professional and personal<br />

development of its students through training in<br />

interview skills, resume’ writing, computer use<br />

and appropriate dress. The open-door policy<br />

practiced by school directors, instructors, and<br />

financial aid counselors enables students to have<br />

easy access to advice on academic and financial<br />

situations. STVT maintains contacts with likely<br />

employers and refers graduates to job<br />

interviews. The school prides itself on providing<br />

lifetime job placement for its graduates through<br />

the graduate services coordinator.<br />

South Texas Vo-Tech has taken on the<br />

challenge of fulfilling the training needs of area<br />

businesses, government agencies and<br />

organizations on a contractual basis. For example,<br />

when a company’s employees need safety training<br />

to meet new regulatory standards or one<br />

department needs instruction on a new computer<br />

program, STVT can provide the instructor and<br />

train on site or at the school’s campuses.<br />

Additionally numerous seminars sponsored by<br />

the McAllen Chamber of Commerce and other<br />

local organizations are held at the STVT McAllen<br />

and Weslaco campuses.<br />

STVT is accredited by the Council on<br />

Occupational Education and is approved and<br />

regulated by the Texas Workforce Commission,<br />

Proprietary Schools Section. Financial aid<br />

includes federal grants and loan programs,<br />

scholarships, work-study and veterans<br />

assistance programs.<br />

South Texas Vo-Tech promotes its<br />

curriculum at Career Fairs, advising candidates<br />

on what jobs are in high demand as well as<br />

what training is required for those positions.<br />

“We encourage everyone to continue their<br />

education in one form or another, with us or<br />

elsewhere,” says Rodriguez.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

257


SHARYLAND<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: Sharyland Independent School<br />

District in 1924.<br />

Below: Sharyland Independent School<br />

District in 2000-2001. This aerial picture<br />

depicts the Administration Building;<br />

Sharyland High School with four academic<br />

buildings and 2 gyms; McLeaish Resource<br />

Learning Center; the Vo-Ag facilities; the<br />

band hall; a nine-acre practice field; B. L.<br />

Gray Junior High with 2 gyms; the football<br />

stadium with track; baseball and softball<br />

fields; the central cafeteria; ana the looped<br />

bus ramp in the middle of the facilities. The<br />

SISD complex is bordered by Shary Road<br />

and Taylor Road just north of Business 83.<br />

Opposite, top: One of the oldest Sharyland<br />

Band pictures (right) and the first football<br />

team members (left).<br />

Opposite, bottom: One of the first school<br />

buses used to transport students. In<br />

inclement weather the tarps were released<br />

to drape across the openings.<br />

Student achievement is the Sharyland<br />

Independent School District’s reward for<br />

the combination of a dedicated staff, involved<br />

parents, strong programs, a disciplined<br />

environment, and the proud heritage of the<br />

district’s unique and historical roots.<br />

This twenty-six-square-mile school district<br />

in Hidalgo County, created in 1921, works daily<br />

towards its mission of providing the highest<br />

quality education possible for all students. The<br />

district is dedicated to the concept of providing<br />

students, to the full extent of their individual<br />

abilities, the opportunity to develop the ability<br />

to think logically, independently, creatively, and<br />

to communicate effectively. It endeavors to<br />

promote the worth and dignity of all students<br />

and encourages them to become productive<br />

and responsible members of society.<br />

Named for John H. Shary, who was president<br />

of the district’s first board members, the<br />

Sharyland district evolved from a single room of<br />

boxboards built by local residents about 1914-<br />

1915. With a wood-burning stove, outdoor<br />

privy, and cracks in the walls through which<br />

winter winds whistled, the building housed<br />

eighteen children in first through seventh<br />

grades, taught by one teacher. High school<br />

students attended Mission or McAllen schools.<br />

By the end of 1917 the McAllen District, of<br />

which the Sharyland School was a part,<br />

provided buses from the Shary tract, charging<br />

each student fifty cents per month. Sharyland<br />

area residents petitioned the McAllen board to<br />

build a new school in their area, and in 1918 a<br />

three-room building was constructed.<br />

Three years later the Texas Legislature<br />

approved a separate school district. Voters elected<br />

original board members A. C. Trapp, C. H. Ray, J.<br />

C. Nelson, W. H. Wilson, Peter Bentsen, W. J.<br />

Bond, and John H. Shary, who would remain as<br />

board president until 1940. When school opened<br />

in September 1921, five teachers at three different<br />

locations taught ninety-eight students. The<br />

district’s rapid growth led to approval of a school<br />

bond issue in 1922. The ten-room building, on<br />

property donated by Shary, was the “latest style<br />

of school, similar to those being successfully used<br />

in California.” This open-air, one-story building,<br />

the first of its kind in Texas, was equipped with<br />

an auditorium, a public address system and a<br />

home economics department with a complete<br />

efficiency apartment.<br />

When district funds ran low in 1925, Shary<br />

personally financed the school until the end of<br />

the term. Without his generosity, the school<br />

would have closed at mid-semester. High<br />

school students were still educated in nearby<br />

districts until 1924. The first commencement<br />

exercises for Sharyland High School were held<br />

in 1927, with four graduates who had started<br />

high school in McAllen or Mission.<br />

Continued growth of the district to its<br />

present enrollment of fifty-two hundred<br />

students housed in one junior and one senior<br />

high school and four zoned elementary schools<br />

has led to numerous building improvements in<br />

recent years, including:<br />

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258


• A bilingual program placing equal emphasis<br />

and value on the acquisition of both<br />

Spanish and English, the languages of both<br />

the school and the community;<br />

• Three elementary schools built since<br />

1996, using identical plans to cut costs;<br />

• High school building renovations and<br />

additions of science classrooms, gymnasium<br />

and dressing rooms, additional parking<br />

and site improvements, technologically<br />

equipped library with teaching theater,<br />

track, tennis courts, softball facility, and a<br />

nine-acre practice field area;<br />

• A junior high wing with thirteen classrooms,<br />

main building renovation,<br />

gymnasium, and tennis courts;<br />

• Two exit roads have been added for traffic<br />

pattern improvement.<br />

A fiscally conservative board maintains a<br />

$32 million budget, with 56 percent of revenues<br />

derived from the state, 34 percent from local<br />

property taxes, and 10 percent from federal programs.<br />

Operating costs per student are below<br />

state and regional averages.<br />

With a staff of about 650, including 312<br />

teachers, the district’s salary and benefits<br />

schedules are above the state minimum. Over<br />

fifteen percent of teachers have twenty or more<br />

years of experience.<br />

Each school derives benefits from an active<br />

parent-teacher organization, community volunteers,<br />

and the loyal support of residents.<br />

The district offers instruction on parenting<br />

skills and literacy, so parents can become<br />

more influential in their children’s education.<br />

The staff utilizes progressive programs and<br />

initiatives, along with basics, to maintain a wellbalanced,<br />

grade-appropriate curriculum, including<br />

computer labs and Internet access, to help students<br />

succeed. The high school offers a broad spectrum<br />

of basic, elective, concurrent enrollment, dual<br />

credit, and advanced placement courses, as well as<br />

career and technology courses in agricultural<br />

science, business and office management, home<br />

economics, and trade and industrial arts.<br />

Numerous opportunities beyond basics are also<br />

available on the elementary and junior high levels<br />

for students with varied needs and interests.<br />

Student accomplishments as described in<br />

the 1999-2000 state report attest to the<br />

district’s success in its mission, including:<br />

• Two elementary schools rated “exemplary”<br />

by the Texas Education Agency for<br />

the TAAS tests;<br />

• The district, high school, other elementary<br />

schools, and migrant high school students’<br />

TAAS performance rated “recognized” by<br />

the Texas Education Agency;<br />

• SAT college entrance scores above regional<br />

and state averages, even though a higher<br />

percentage of SHS students took this exam;<br />

• Annual victories of first place in UIL district<br />

contests for over forty years;<br />

• Texas Scholar designation for eighty<br />

percent of the SHS graduates in 1999 and<br />

2000 compared to the state average of<br />

sixteen percent.<br />

For more information about Sharyland<br />

Independent School District please visit<br />

www.sharyland.k12.tx.us.<br />

✧<br />

Board of Trustees, 2000-2001<br />

Lowell Hudsonpillar, president<br />

Linda Cardenas, vice president<br />

Joe D. Williamson, secretary<br />

Paul R. Rodriguez, assistant secretary<br />

Joe Phillips<br />

Ramón Rosales<br />

Tony LaMantia<br />

Administration<br />

Sandra H. Reed, Ph.D., superintendent<br />

EDUCATION<br />

259


WESLACO<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: WISD Superintendent Richard<br />

Rivera has served from 1996 to the present.<br />

Below: Weslaco High School students use the<br />

latest technological tools.<br />

The 2000-2001 school year marked the<br />

fifth consecutive year the Weslaco Independent<br />

School District has been named as a<br />

Texas Education Agency “Recognized School<br />

District.” This designation is based on<br />

eighty percent mastery of the Texas<br />

Assessment of Academic Skills (TAAS) tests in<br />

math, reading, writing, science and social<br />

studies by Weslaco students.<br />

Located in south central Hidalgo County,<br />

about eight miles north of the Texas-Mexico<br />

border, the fifty-four square mile Weslaco ISD<br />

is bordered by the cities of Progreso, Donna,<br />

Mercedes, and Edcouch/Elsa.<br />

Weslaco city officials organized the district<br />

soon after the city’s establishment in 1919. With<br />

an enrollment of 350 in its first year, 1921-22,<br />

the district had a faculty of ten and a ninemember<br />

graduating class. The first official<br />

school building, completed in February 1922,<br />

was welcomed by students and staff. The new<br />

insulated building brought comfort after a harsh<br />

winter, and the students would no longer have<br />

to borrow benches from city hall.<br />

Weslaco ISD now serves about fourteen<br />

thousand students, of which 96.93 percent are<br />

Hispanic. More than forty-five hundred students<br />

who are classified as “migrant students” leave<br />

the district with their parents during the school<br />

year for agriculture-related work.<br />

With a current operating budget of $92.5<br />

million and about 2,000 employees, WISD is one<br />

of the largest employers in the City of Weslaco.<br />

Through careful financial planning, it has grown<br />

with the student population while retaining one<br />

of the lowest tax rates in the <strong>Valley</strong>. Over five<br />

hundred students graduate annually from<br />

Weslaco High and pursue higher education.<br />

WISD is made up of a pre-kindergarten<br />

campus, seven elementary schools, four<br />

intermediate, three middle, and three high<br />

schools. The SFA Early Childhood Center, one of<br />

the largest pre-kinder campus in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, is designed to ease the transition of fouryear<br />

olds with limited English proficiency to the<br />

district’s curriculum plan. Elementary schools<br />

(grades K-4), and intermediate schools (grades<br />

5-6) lay the foundation to the district’s extensive<br />

curriculum. The middle school curriculum offers<br />

more advanced courses as well as fine arts and<br />

technology courses.<br />

Weslaco’s second high school, Weslaco East,<br />

opened in 2000-01. To avoid overcrowding at<br />

Weslaco High, the new school was built to<br />

accommodate ninth and tenth grades, and in<br />

time will be converted to a four-year high school.<br />

Both high schools provide an array of upper-level<br />

courses, such as advanced placement. Through<br />

concurrent enrollment, students can obtain<br />

college credit or take college courses while still in<br />

high school. Career and technology education<br />

courses allow high school students to prepare for<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

260


the workforce. South Palm Gardens is a<br />

free-choice high school for grades 10-12. The<br />

small class size and individualized instruction<br />

offered meets the needs of students seeking a<br />

different environment from the traditional high<br />

school setting. The Weslaco ISD Guidance<br />

Center provides an alternative to suspension and<br />

gives students a second chance to improve<br />

their behavior.<br />

All Weslaco ISD students have access to the<br />

latest educational programs and research<br />

tools, such as the Internet and a variety of<br />

software. With computers in every classroom,<br />

students are kept abreast of technological<br />

advances. Teachers utilize computers to<br />

enhance the district’s tough curriculum and to<br />

track student progress through district-wide<br />

testing and grading.<br />

Reading, writing and math skills are the<br />

building blocks that all students need to be<br />

successful. The district’s eclectic approach to<br />

teaching reading includes phonics, the use of<br />

authentic literature, and integration of reading<br />

and writing. Recognizing the increasing<br />

importance of math in the age of technological<br />

advancement, WISD is committed to providing<br />

quality math education geared to each<br />

student’s individual needs and abilities.<br />

Performance objectives guide teachers in<br />

planning instructional strategies to ensure<br />

continuity across grade levels.<br />

Science and social studies concepts and skills<br />

are emphasized at all levels. At the elementary<br />

level an interdisciplinary approach emphasizes<br />

themes that span many disciplines. At the upper<br />

levels, science and social studies become more<br />

specialized and require more in-depth learning.<br />

Advanced Academic Services, the WISD<br />

gifted and talented program provides a quality<br />

education for all students, recognizing that each<br />

has unique needs, interests, and abilities. Gifted<br />

education fosters intellectual and artistic ability,<br />

task commitment, creativity, and critical<br />

thinking. QUEST—an acronym for Questioning,<br />

Understanding, Exploring, Searching, and<br />

Thinking—is the gifted program for<br />

kindergarten through sixth grade students,<br />

which is designed to enhance education through<br />

enrichment opportunities. Key components of<br />

the secondary gifted program include the Distinguished<br />

Achievement Plan, in which students<br />

perform at college or professional level, and<br />

allows students to pursue college-level studies<br />

while in high school. Concurrent enrollment is<br />

available with the University of Texas-Pan<br />

American, allowing students to earn credit<br />

concurrently for both high school and college.<br />

The wide variety of advanced programs has<br />

earned Weslaco High School recognition as a<br />

“Mentor High School.” Its advanced placement<br />

program was selected in the spring of 2000 by<br />

Newsweek as one of the best in the country.<br />

The district’s administration, faculty, and<br />

staff strive to provide a quality education with<br />

an innovative and challenging curriculum.<br />

Working as a team with parents and the<br />

community, Weslaco ISD will continue to<br />

ensure that all students are prepared to meet the<br />

demands of an ever-changing world.<br />

✧<br />

Above: WISD elementary students.<br />

Below: WISD students in the Science Lab.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

261


THE UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS-PAN AMERICAN<br />

✧<br />

Above: The original campus.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HIDALGO COUNTY HISTORICAL<br />

MUSEUM ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: Dr. Miguel A Nevárez is the longestseated<br />

Hispanic president of a four-year<br />

college or university in the United States.<br />

The oldest and largest institution for<br />

higher education in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

The University of Texas-Pan American leads<br />

Texas universities in the number of certified<br />

teachers graduating each year. It also ranks<br />

first in the United States in preparing<br />

bilingual teachers. With 12,500 students, a<br />

faculty of nearly 400, and a staff of<br />

approximately 790, The University of Texas-<br />

Pan American is the fifth largest university in<br />

the University of Texas System as well as the<br />

tenth largest university in Texas.<br />

That’s a world away from 1927 and the<br />

founding of Edinburg College. The<br />

community college created by the Edinburg<br />

School District was conceived as the gateway<br />

to higher education for thousands of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

residents. The first graduating class numbered<br />

only five. Enrollment soon averaged 250 and<br />

the 20 to 30 faculty members generally taught<br />

at area high schools as well as at the college.<br />

H. P. Ward served as president for twenty-six<br />

years, beginning in 1931.<br />

The institution was known as Edinburg<br />

Junior College from 1933 until 1948, when it<br />

became Edinburg Regional College. In 1952<br />

the name changed once again to Pan<br />

American College and for the first time had a<br />

senior division for upper-level work and<br />

degrees. Graduates doubled to more than 100<br />

annually and Pan American joined the Texas<br />

System of Colleges and Universities. Over the<br />

next twenty years, enrollment grew to five<br />

thousand while the college acquired<br />

additional property, developed a master<br />

building plan, and offered extension courses<br />

in four counties. Pan American University,<br />

chartered in 1971, began offering graduate<br />

courses in the arts, education and science and<br />

also launched the Marine Biology Lab on<br />

South Padre Island.<br />

As the Texas Legislature committed more<br />

funds to higher education in South Texas, The<br />

University of Texas-Pan American opened<br />

officially on September 1, 1989. Continuing a<br />

pattern of growth and expansion, new<br />

baccalaureate and master’s level programs<br />

were added. The Engineering Department was<br />

created and doctoral level programs in<br />

educational leadership and international<br />

business were developed. Besides being the<br />

only four-year public university offering the<br />

Physician’s Assistant Studies degree program<br />

in Texas, UTPA has the state’s only accredited<br />

manufacturing engineering program.<br />

During the 1999-2000 academic year, the<br />

University awarded 1,062 baccalaureate degrees,<br />

281 master’s degrees, and 6 doctoral degrees. The<br />

colleges of Business Administration, Education,<br />

Health Sciences and Human Services, Arts and<br />

Humanities, Science and Engineering, and Social<br />

and Behavioral Sciences currently offer 49<br />

bachelor’s degree programs and 41 master’s<br />

degree programs. Doctoral degrees are now<br />

presented in two fields: Business Administration<br />

and Educational Administration, and a doctorate<br />

of pharmacy in cooperation with UT Austin.<br />

Dr. Miguel Nevárez, who has been<br />

president since 1981, has stated one of the<br />

University’s priorities is to ensure that all<br />

graduates receive a strong liberal arts<br />

education regardless of their major. UTPA’s<br />

courses emphasize competency, multicultural<br />

understanding, and high ethical standards,<br />

drawing on the multicultural, multilingual<br />

character of the UTPA community.<br />

UTPA undergraduates in fields as diverse as<br />

engineering and biology have the opportunity<br />

to do field studies and research traditionally<br />

reserved for graduate students at other<br />

universities. Internships give students hands-<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

262


on experience in their fields of study. Students<br />

have access to the latest information for any<br />

research project through their professors, the<br />

resource-filled library, and the Academic<br />

Services Building’s five hundred Internetconnected<br />

computers for student use.<br />

Immersed in the full spectrum of student life,<br />

UTPA students develop their talents and<br />

interests both in class and out. Three on-campus<br />

art galleries, musical ensembles from jazz to the<br />

award-winning UTPA Mariachi, the University<br />

Theatre, lecture series, and publications provide<br />

cultural stimulation. Extracurricular activities<br />

include intramural sports, supporting the efforts<br />

of the Broncs and Lady Broncs and participating<br />

in special interest clubs, student government,<br />

campus events, and celebrations.<br />

The University of Texas-Pan American<br />

continues to grow, keeping pace with rising<br />

enrollment. New state-of-the-art buildings<br />

include the Mathematics and General<br />

Classroom Building, the Computer Center<br />

Building, and the forty-four-thousand-squarefoot<br />

Student Union, which houses a variety of<br />

student activities. The International Trade and<br />

Technology Building, home to many of UTPA’s<br />

public service operations, also functions as a<br />

conference and meeting facility. The Center for<br />

Entrepre-neurship and Economic Development<br />

has contributed to the establishment and<br />

expansion of numerous businesses along with<br />

the creation and preservation of thousands of<br />

South Texas jobs.<br />

Today, The University of Texas-Pan<br />

American continues the mission envisioned<br />

years ago by Edinburg College, encouraging<br />

the higher education aspirations of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

youth and adults. Many UTPA students<br />

represent the first generation of their families<br />

to attend college, and the majority receive<br />

some form of financial aid. Accessible financial<br />

aid combined with UTPA’s low fees and<br />

inexpensive public university tuition enable<br />

new and continuing students to reach their<br />

educational goals. Experience Excellence by<br />

visiting The University of Texas-Pan American<br />

in Edinburg and at www.panam.edu.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The award-winning UTPA Mariachi.<br />

Bottom, left: The Science Building.<br />

Bottom, right: Pre-medical students at<br />

UTPA have a sixty-five percent acceptance<br />

rate to medical schools. The state/national<br />

average is thirty-five percent.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

263


✧<br />

COSTEP<br />

AND<br />

STHEA<br />

Liz Estrada, COSTEP Marketing<br />

Department, helps students use the<br />

Internet to apply for financial aid.<br />

COSTEP was founded by a man with a<br />

vision—a man from a long line of visionary<br />

pioneers who have worked to improve South<br />

Texas for over eighty years.<br />

It all began in the late nineteenth century,<br />

when Tina and Peter Bentsen emigrated from<br />

Denmark to South Dakota to farm. They left<br />

South Dakota in 1917 with a dream to prosper<br />

in a warm climate, and that they did. Peter<br />

Bentsen told his sons, Lloyd and Elmer, “Buy all<br />

the land you can and hold on to it.” His sons<br />

followed his advice and the Bentsen Development<br />

Company became one of the largest land<br />

businesses in the <strong>Valley</strong>. The grandchildren<br />

expanded and diversified the family’s holdings<br />

into insurance, banking, and politics.<br />

Perhaps the most famous grandchild is<br />

Lloyd Bentsen, Jr., who has a long history of<br />

service to South Texas, the state, and the<br />

nation. He served as a judge for Hidalgo<br />

County—the youngest judge in Texas—then<br />

became the youngest member of the U. S.<br />

House of Representatives, serving three terms.<br />

In the early 1970s, he won a U. S. Senate seat<br />

and served until 1988, when he resigned to<br />

run for vice president of the United States with<br />

Michael Dukakis. President Bill Clinton chose<br />

Bentsen as his secretary of treasury in 1993.<br />

In the early 1970s Lloyd Bentsen, Jr., like<br />

his grandfather before him, had a vision. He<br />

saw a South Texas fifty years in the future that<br />

had a diverse economy, lower unemployment<br />

rate, higher personal income, a thriving and<br />

productive public school system, and<br />

prestigious institutions of higher education<br />

with greater enrollment and graduation rates,<br />

and increased participation in the political<br />

system. But how to get there?<br />

In his first speech after taking office in the<br />

U. S. Senate in 1971, Senator Bentsen threw<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

264


down the gauntlet. He challenged the<br />

business leaders of South Texas to join him in<br />

attacking some of the economic problems of<br />

South Texas, “a great area, but an area that has<br />

far more than its share of poverty in a nation<br />

of affluence.”<br />

Senator Bentsen established the Council<br />

for South Texas Economic Progress (COSTEP)<br />

in McAllen, Texas, to deliver his dream of<br />

South Texas. COSTEP was chartered in 1972<br />

as a nonprofit corporation. It provided a<br />

striking demonstration of how the talent and<br />

energy of the private sector can form a<br />

productive working partnership with the<br />

resources of government to solve problems<br />

that were of concern to many Texans.<br />

COSTEP’s mission was to improve the<br />

educational level of the region as one of<br />

the primary factors for improving the<br />

economic condition. To do this, another<br />

vehicle was needed—secondary loan markets<br />

to work with lenders, schools, and borrowers<br />

to efficiently and effectively manage the<br />

student loan funds. To this end,<br />

COSTEP in 1973 established the<br />

South Texas Higher Education<br />

Authority, Inc. (STHEA) under the<br />

sponsorship of the City of Edinburg,<br />

but headquartered in McAllen.<br />

STHEA is the oldest, continuously<br />

operational secondary student loan<br />

market in the United States.<br />

Since 1972, the COSTEP/ STHEA<br />

partnership has helped nearly a<br />

quarter of a million students attend<br />

postsecondary education. Among the<br />

many benefits of an increasingly<br />

educated citizenry that have accrued<br />

to the <strong>Valley</strong> over the years include<br />

higher earnings fostering higher<br />

consumption, tax and savings rates<br />

that fuel the economy. Social and<br />

cultural benefits include a reduced<br />

crime rate, more charitable giving,<br />

greater participation in civic life,<br />

improved health, and increased<br />

appreciation for diversity. COSTEP<br />

and STHEA are proud to be<br />

contributors to such improvements in<br />

the life of South Texas.<br />

The infrastructure for higher<br />

education has expanded dramatically since the<br />

1970s. In 1972, the year COSTEP was founded,<br />

there were 3 universities and 8 community<br />

colleges in South Texas serving 47,841 students.<br />

By 1998 there were 6 universities and 11<br />

community colleges serving 128,839 students, a<br />

269 percent increase.<br />

Keeping in mind the low economic status<br />

of the area, COSTEP offers student loans at<br />

the lowest possible cost, and works with<br />

students to put together a package of grants,<br />

scholarships and loans that leaves the student<br />

with the smallest debt burden possible.<br />

COSTEP’s and STHEA’s actions are guided by<br />

their belief that equal access to education is the<br />

key to economic progress for all. They believe<br />

in working with the community to provide the<br />

resources for all students to fulfill their<br />

educational aspirations. The improvements in<br />

South Texas over the past twenty-five years are<br />

in part due to the vision of Senator Bentsen, and<br />

two organizations he put in place—COSTEP<br />

and STHEA.<br />

✧<br />

Rosie Serna of McAllen, Texas, shown here<br />

with her children at her graduation, used<br />

her student loan to attend The University of<br />

Texas–Pan American.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

265


SAN BENITO<br />

CONSOLIDATED<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: Students in the district take pride<br />

in their heritage by celebrating various<br />

cultural events.<br />

Below: The district utilizes innovative<br />

methods in an effort to help students become<br />

lifelong learners.<br />

Before San Benito opened a city school,<br />

privately hired teachers in one-room schools at<br />

Highland, Rangerville, La Encantada, El<br />

Naranjo, La Paloma, and Los Indios taught<br />

children on farms and ranches. In 1907 when<br />

San Benito first opened Ward School on North<br />

Travis Avenue, it enrolled forty-eight students<br />

representing five nationalities: Americans,<br />

Mexican, German, Spanish, and Bohemian.<br />

Classes for Spanish speaking students were<br />

held at Fred Booth School. By 1910 different<br />

grades were scattered around town in various<br />

locations with some classes meeting on the<br />

second floor of the E. De La Rosa Dry Goods<br />

Store. In January 1911, all grades of English<br />

speaking students moved into a brick building<br />

on Reagan Street. Landrum School was added<br />

in 1912.<br />

Teachers and students in San Benito’s<br />

early days were able to witness history on<br />

their doorsteps. During the era of Bandit<br />

raids in 1916, students at Landrum School<br />

saw their playground converted into a<br />

camp for the Third Iowa Regiment and<br />

Texas Rangers who were protecting the<br />

region. Fred Booth Elementary served as a<br />

hospital during the 1918 Spanish influenza<br />

epidemic when schools were closed for a<br />

two-week quarantine.<br />

From its one-room school beginnings, San<br />

Benito Consolidated Independent School<br />

District today has achieved “State Recognized”<br />

honors from the Texas Education Agency for<br />

six consecutive years. The school district<br />

encompasses fifteen campuses with a total<br />

enrollment over eighty-seven hundred<br />

students. It employs 595 teachers and 798<br />

support staff. The district’s ten elementary<br />

schools are Fred Booth, Dr. Cash, Ed Downs,<br />

Landrum, Rangerville, Frank Roberts,<br />

Sullivan, La Encantada, La Paloma, and Dr.<br />

Garza. The district also maintains two middle<br />

schools Berta Cabaza and Vernon Jordan; San<br />

Benito High School; the Ninth Grade Learning<br />

Center; and the Joe Callandret Positive<br />

Redirection Center.<br />

The success of San Benito schools is evident.<br />

Led by Superintendent Joe D. González, the<br />

district—which has been a state recognized<br />

district for six consecutive years—boasts several<br />

exemplary and recognized schools. The school<br />

district’s accomplishments have been achieved<br />

by hard work, by dedication, and by strong<br />

community support. Voters approved school<br />

bond issues for $23 million in 1997 and for<br />

$26.3 million in 1999. School bond approval<br />

has allowed the district to upgrade facilities at<br />

Frank Roberts, Rangerville, Ed Downs, La<br />

Paloma, Landrum, Sullivan, Dr. Garza and Dr.<br />

Cash Elementary Schools. The new Fred Booth<br />

elementary campus, on the site of the old<br />

school, welcomed its first students during the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

266


2000-2001 school year. District-wide<br />

expansions are underway. Construction includes<br />

classroom wings, new libraries, new cafeterias,<br />

and special education rooms.<br />

Because of its very impressive levels of<br />

academic success despite having a large<br />

proportion of economically disadvantaged<br />

students, the San Benito School District is<br />

considered a model for other Texas schools to<br />

follow. The Charles A. Dana Center of the<br />

University of Texas conducted research to<br />

learn why San Benito students are excelling<br />

academically and achieving high scores. The<br />

researchers hope to determine what policies<br />

and procedures are influencing and sustaining<br />

academic excellence.<br />

Recognizing the importance of parents in a<br />

student’s education, the District’s Parental<br />

Involvement Program offers literacy and<br />

instructional programs for parents, enabling<br />

them to become partners in the education of<br />

their children. It also offers GED and skills<br />

training valuable in job placement. Through<br />

parent centers, parents work as volunteers in<br />

classrooms, libraries, class projects, and<br />

school offices while learning job skills.<br />

Overall, the program averages 440 participants<br />

monthly.<br />

The Gear UP program raises postsecondary<br />

expectations of students and helps<br />

them make a college degree a reality. With the<br />

skills needed to succeed in college and<br />

financial aid information, students may<br />

become the first in their families to go college.<br />

Additional programs from Even Start to<br />

Public Education from the Home to the<br />

Doctorate continue the message that every<br />

child in San Benito can go to college given the<br />

proper tutoring, mentoring and university<br />

exposure needed to make this choice.<br />

The new Naval Junior ROTC at San Benito<br />

High School and the restructuring of the<br />

ninth grade are initiatives designed to help<br />

students experience success. The Community<br />

Oriented Policing Services, along with the<br />

District’s Security personnel, work to ensure<br />

a safe environment for students, teachers,<br />

and staff.<br />

Along with other school districts, San Benito<br />

has partnered with the Challenger Learning<br />

Center in San Benito. The space flight simulator<br />

exposes students to the hands-on value of their<br />

science, math, and English studies. The District<br />

has contributed two teachers, funding and the<br />

temporary use of the building for the Space<br />

Flight simulation mission.<br />

Educating every student to succeed, the<br />

San Benito School District takes pride in<br />

the accomplishments of those students<br />

and strives to produce graduates who are<br />

lifelong learners.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Impact, a publication produced by<br />

the University of North Texas, profiled the<br />

district for its technology practices. The<br />

district has obtained various technology<br />

grants the past several years.<br />

Below: Graduates from the Class of 2001<br />

smile with pride prior to commencement<br />

ceremonies.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

267


SOUTH TEXAS<br />

COMMUNITY<br />

COLLEGE<br />

Super Onda, “The magazine for young adults<br />

with purpose,” has chosen South Texas<br />

Community College as its number one choice of<br />

“Best Schools 2000.” The magazine, which rates<br />

Hispanic-serving institutions, notes that STCC<br />

“is committed to the preparation of intellectually<br />

flexible, creative, and productive citizens”<br />

with academic goals “achieved through exposure<br />

to a range of disciplines and technologies.”<br />

STCC, which has a fifty-five percent retention<br />

rate for Hispanic students, provides a variety<br />

of free events to complement students’<br />

intellectual development, the magazine says,<br />

adding, “Hispanic students received ninety-five<br />

percent of all scholarships, fellowships, and<br />

grants for the 1998-99 academic year.” This is<br />

an area in which the College is especially outstanding,<br />

having awarded over 400 National<br />

Hispanic Scholarship Fund scholarships.<br />

STCC’s achievements are worthy of particular<br />

notice in view of the fact that the college<br />

district was organized just seven years ago.<br />

Now the fastest-growing community college<br />

in Texas, it serves Hidalgo and Starr Counties,<br />

previously the only area of Texas with a population<br />

of almost half a million people not<br />

served by a community college. The district’s<br />

population is primarily Hispanic—ninetyseven<br />

percent in Starr County and eighty-five<br />

percent in Hidalgo County, and the College’s<br />

enrollment is ninety-five percent Hispanic.<br />

From 1,058 students in the fall of 1993,<br />

STCC has grown steadily to a total of well over<br />

11,000 in the fall of 2000. Studies conducted by<br />

the College and the Texas Higher Education<br />

Coordinating Board, in conjunction with Texas<br />

A&M University, predict continued growth in<br />

enrollment to a total of 20,528 by the fall semester<br />

of 2005. This phenomenal growth projection<br />

is based in part on forecasts showing the total<br />

population of the two counties will increase<br />

from the present 601,183 to 809,357 by 2010.<br />

Since its inception with just one campus,<br />

STCC has also grown to include five campuses/centers—the<br />

Downtown Center, Pecan<br />

Campus, and the Center for Advanced and<br />

Applied Technology, all in McAllen; Starr<br />

County Campus in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City; and Mid-<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Campus in Weslaco. An additional new<br />

campus is a possibility by 2005 if enrollment<br />

projections prove accurate. A campus master<br />

planning architectural firm has received a contract<br />

from STCC to prepare a Campus<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

268


Development Master Plan for the next ten years.<br />

The total faculty and staff have reached 848.<br />

A recent evaluation found STCC has provided<br />

“a solid base for future planning,” to serve “a<br />

dynamic community college in a rapidly growing<br />

and changing district” with its focus on<br />

serving the diverse educational and training<br />

needs of the people of Hidalgo and Starr<br />

Counties. The STCC mission of providing educational<br />

training for good jobs and future<br />

employment opportunities emphasizes that<br />

this is a critical requirement for the area’s economic<br />

development. This concept directs all<br />

planning and development activities, with<br />

access and equity considered the principal<br />

challenges as the institution continues to grow.<br />

The presence of STCC is vital to this area, in<br />

which the 1990 census showed that forty-one<br />

percent of all Hidalgo County adults and fiftyseven<br />

percent of those in Starr County had less<br />

than a ninth grade education. The census<br />

showed forty-one percent of Starr County adults<br />

and twenty-nine in Hidalgo County either spoke<br />

no English or were limited in English.<br />

The College seeks to offer and maintain<br />

academic programming of the highest quality,<br />

and to make access to this programming widely<br />

available to its constituents. STCC sites near<br />

its students’ homes are of particular importance,<br />

since many have extremely limited<br />

access to transportation. Technical and vocational<br />

certification, Associate Degrees in both<br />

technical and academic areas, transferable<br />

courses, and workforce/work site training programs<br />

targeting employment opportunities<br />

within the district are available. Students say<br />

“caring and committed faculty” is the number<br />

one reason they are pleased with STCC.<br />

Most graduates are either employed or<br />

pursuing future education. A survey of<br />

employers shows that 92 percent are satisfied<br />

with the STCC graduates they hire.<br />

The many grants awarded to STCC are<br />

confirmation of the quality of its programs<br />

and the effectiveness of its methods. Among<br />

these are:<br />

• American Association of Community<br />

Colleges Microsoft “Working Connections”<br />

Grant and $1.3 million in software from<br />

Microsoft and IBM.<br />

• $350,000 in funding from the University of<br />

Texas Health Science Center South Texas<br />

Border Initiative<br />

• $1 million commitment over the next four<br />

years from McAllen Medical Center<br />

• $5.2 million in institutional grants for<br />

FY 2000<br />

• $2.9 million in Workforce Training Grants<br />

for FY 2000<br />

• $1.2 million from the City of McAllen<br />

• $1 million HUD Community Development<br />

Block grant<br />

Promoting the values of quality, integrity and<br />

community, STCC strives to meet educational<br />

goals of excellence, student success, regional<br />

prosperity, community service, and districtwide<br />

access, with an overall vision of a better<br />

quality of life for the communities it serves.<br />

✧<br />

COURTESY OF SOUTH TEXAS COMMUNITY COLLEGE,<br />

OFFICE OF PUBLIC RELATIONS & MARKETING.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

269


MCALLEN<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: Valedictorians Michael McCarthy of<br />

Rowe (left), Crystal Calvin of McHi<br />

(center), and Daniel Jay Hernandez of<br />

Memorial proudly take the lead in<br />

McAllen ISD’s first graduations of the new<br />

millennium.<br />

Below: Education Foundation awards<br />

innovative grants—“Yes! We got the grant,<br />

we got the grant!” The McAllen Education<br />

Foundation awarded teachers across the<br />

district twenty-two grants on March 6,<br />

2000. The announcements took teachers<br />

and students by surprise as members of the<br />

Foundation Board of Directors burst into<br />

classrooms, toting balloon bouquets, flyers,<br />

and special “Ask me about my Foundation<br />

Grant” pins. Teachers at Garza Elementary<br />

were thrilled to hear the news.<br />

An outstanding school board, professional<br />

and support staff, combined with generous<br />

community support and parental involvement,<br />

have helped propel students in the<br />

McAllen Independent School District to a<br />

remarkable level of scholastic and extra-curricular<br />

achievement.<br />

The district’s mission is an ambitious one:<br />

“To educate all students to become lifelong<br />

learners and productive citizens in a global<br />

society through a program of educational<br />

excellence utilizing technology and actively<br />

involving parents and the community.” Efforts<br />

toward its fulfillment are obviously paying<br />

dividends, as the district, its teachers and its<br />

students continue to win accolades on both<br />

state and national levels.<br />

McAllen has been recognized as a progressive<br />

school district that sets the pace for educational<br />

change and innovation, promoting an<br />

environment that allows its staff to tailor<br />

practices, programs and systems to the specific<br />

needs of its students and achieve a positive effect<br />

on learning. With an enrollment of 21,625<br />

students, McAllen ISD operates three 5A high<br />

schools, 6 middle schools, 18 elementary<br />

schools, and 4 alternative education facilities. Its<br />

1,414 teachers average 11.3 years of teaching<br />

experience, and over seventeen percent hold<br />

advanced degrees.<br />

The district’s achievements start at the very<br />

top, with the McAllen School Board having<br />

been named in 1998 as the School Board of the<br />

Year for Texas’ Region One, and as an Honor<br />

School Board of Texas—one of just five in the<br />

entire state. High praise has also been directed<br />

to the district’s outstanding professional staff,<br />

which has included eight Regional Teachers of<br />

the Year in the past nine years. The district’s<br />

teachers have also won State Teacher of the<br />

Year honors, Tandy Corporation “Champion of<br />

the Classroom” and Reader’s Digest “American<br />

Hero in Education” recognition, the Molly<br />

Gerold Human Rights Award, and finalist<br />

status in the Disney American Teacher Award<br />

competition, as well as many other honors.<br />

McAllen ISD has been rated a “Recognized”<br />

school district by the Texas Education Agency for<br />

two consecutive years, based on students’<br />

achievement rates of 80 percent or more passing<br />

each section of the Texas Assessment of<br />

Academic Skills (TAAS) Test. Preliminary figures<br />

indicate MISD may again win “Recognized”<br />

status for the third year in a row. Gains over the<br />

period from 1994-99 show an 8 percent<br />

improvement in reading, 28 percent in math, 9<br />

percent in writing, and 24 percent for all tests at<br />

every grade level. Although the district’s<br />

Hispanic, LEP and economically disadvantaged<br />

populations surpass the state average, the district<br />

consistently exceeds state TAAS averages.<br />

Five McAllen ISD schools were rated<br />

“Exemplary” by the state for TAAS achievement<br />

rates of ninety percent and above; and thirteen<br />

were “Recognized” for scores of eighty percent<br />

and above. Preliminary figures indicate the<br />

number of “Exemplary” campuses may actually<br />

increase for next year. Three schools—Travis<br />

Middle School and Seguin and Milam<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

270


Elementary Schools—are former National Blue<br />

Ribbon schools. Three of the district’s schools<br />

have been selected as Mentor Schools, based<br />

on student achievement. This means they serve<br />

as resource/visit sites for other districts. The<br />

Texas Scholars Program, which requires a more<br />

extensive mathematics or science curriculum<br />

than other schools across the area, attracted<br />

404 McAllen students in 1998-99 and 518 in<br />

1999-2000.<br />

Recognition has been granted on all levels of<br />

the McAllen district’s schools, and for a variety<br />

of programs. This is the only district in Texas—<br />

and one of just nine in the U.S.—to win<br />

“Exemplary” status for its Academic 2000<br />

systemic reform in early childhood and<br />

elementary education. This achievement has<br />

prompted the awarding of national grants based<br />

on the effective reading instruction here. The<br />

district’s Counseling Program was Texas winner<br />

of the Planning for Life Award, and ranked<br />

among the top three urban districts in the U.S.<br />

Much of MISD’s success can be attributed to<br />

a focus on advanced academics and innovative<br />

programs such as the proposed International<br />

Baccalaureate Program, a vigorous two-year<br />

course of studies for highly motivated secondary<br />

schools. The drive for excellence is also evident<br />

in the Independent Studies Mentorship<br />

Program, the Summer Health Institute, Math<br />

Camps and integrated physics and chemistry<br />

(middle school students taking high school-level<br />

courses), Duke University Talent Identification<br />

Program, elementary enrichment programs,<br />

vertical teaming, and an emphasis on<br />

technology. In 1998-99, the College Board for<br />

outstanding student achievement on the<br />

Preliminary Scholastic Aptitude Test (PSAT) and<br />

Advanced Placement (AP) tests singled out<br />

MISD. McAllen students scored among the top<br />

2 to 13 percent on nationally administered<br />

exams, receiving college credit. The district’s<br />

students have also won awards in a wide variety<br />

of other categories, from Constitution Team to<br />

visual and performing arts.<br />

Created by the Thirty-fourth Texas Legislature<br />

on March 22, 1915, and originally financed by a<br />

$100,000 bond election, McAllen ISD is a<br />

community resource for a rapidly growing city,<br />

whose population had risen by over twenty<br />

thousand in a ten-year period—to an estimated<br />

105,868 at the end of 1999. Widespread<br />

community support is a matter of record—<br />

approval of a $42 million bond issue in 1997, for<br />

example. Specific areas of assistance include such<br />

programs as the McAllen Education Foundation<br />

grants that fund innovative teaching, such as<br />

Shakespeare in elementary school, DNA research<br />

in high school, and radio telescopes for study of<br />

galaxies. All are aimed at helping the district<br />

fulfill its commitment to the community’s<br />

citizens of the future.<br />

✧<br />

Left: McAllen ISD’s Campus Teachers of the<br />

year (from left to right): Yvette Trejo,<br />

Alvarez; Enedelia Gonzalez, Bonham;<br />

Lorraine J. Mosher, Bowie; Tina De La<br />

Garza, Crockett; Tiffany D. Perez,<br />

Escandon; Norma J. Saenz, Fields; Raquel<br />

C. Adams, Garza; Sherri D. St. Clair,<br />

Gonzalez; Jimmie S. Shadow, Houston;<br />

Elizabeth Iverson, Jackson; Nancy A.<br />

Birkenmayer, McAuliffe; Marcella C.<br />

Garcia, Milam; Carol J. Brown, Navarro;<br />

Dalinda Garcia, Rayburn; Yadira A.<br />

Torres, Roosevelt; Silvia Pompa, Seguin;<br />

Ana M. Rojas, Thigpen; Veronica M.<br />

Champion, Wilson; Imelda Guajardo,<br />

Zavala; Kenneth B. Brock, Brown Middle;<br />

Juan J. Garza, De Leon; Martha A.<br />

Somohano, Lamar; Yolanda G. Morales,<br />

Lincoln; Paul S. Hallock, Morris; Karen<br />

Wilkin, Travis; Sylvia Alvarado, McAllen<br />

High; Cynthia Mills, Memorial High;<br />

Gerardo H. De La Garza, Rowe High;<br />

Kevin Kelly, Options High; and Maricela<br />

Hernandez, I & G Center.<br />

Below: McAllen ISD students rank among<br />

the nation’s and the state’s highest achievers.<br />

McAllen Memorial High School’s<br />

Constitution Team captured the state title<br />

for the eighth time and met with then-<br />

President Bill Clinton during his visit to<br />

McAllen in January 2000.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

271


RAYMONDVILLE<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

The Raymondville Independent School<br />

District is currently engaged in a $22 million<br />

building program designed to help realize<br />

the district’s mission of providing a superior<br />

academic and technological education for all<br />

its students.<br />

The building program includes replacements<br />

and renovations at Raymondville High<br />

School, replacement of the Pittman and L.C.<br />

Smith Elementary Campus buildings, and<br />

renovations and additions to Myra Green<br />

Middle School and the Raymondville<br />

Instructional Center. The district’s facilities<br />

will include a high-tech fiber optic backbone<br />

that will provide all Raymondville ISD classrooms<br />

access to the Internet, Distance<br />

Learning opportunities, and other technological<br />

resources. New library/media centers are<br />

central to each project, and significant<br />

improvements are also being made to the athletic<br />

facilities at each campus. The new sports<br />

complex includes lighted tennis courts, baseball<br />

and softball facilities, and practice fields.<br />

Raymondville ISD participates in the Texas<br />

Rural Systemic Initiative for Mathematics and<br />

Science, and has received grants from the<br />

Telecommunications Infrastructure Fund<br />

Board, the Texas Education Agency, and other<br />

sources. These sources help local taxpayers in<br />

providing support for the district’s mission of<br />

ensuring that 100 percent of Raymondville<br />

ISD students “graduate and become productive<br />

citizens with a strong sense of social and<br />

civic responsibility in a multi-cultural society,<br />

while integrating the agricultural, historical,<br />

recreational and cultural aspects of South<br />

Texas and Northern Mexico that are unique to<br />

the Gateway of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.”<br />

Raymondville schools are all fully accredited<br />

by the Texas Education Agency, and scores<br />

on the Texas Assessment of Academic Skills<br />

have steadily improved over the last five<br />

years. During the 1999-2000 school year, the<br />

Duke University’s Talent Identification<br />

Program identified 75 students from<br />

Raymondville ISD as students with a promising<br />

academic future.<br />

In addition to increased academic rigor<br />

and performance, Raymondville has a proud<br />

tradition in athletics and the Arts.<br />

Raymondville Bearkat athletic teams consistently<br />

win district championships in several<br />

sports. The RISD Band program is a consistent<br />

1st Division winner at UIL Competitions;<br />

many of the band members participate successfully<br />

in individual events, advancing to<br />

State competition. Raymondville students<br />

have enjoyed success in Debate and One-Act<br />

Play, as well as other UIL events.<br />

The first Raymondville School, a small<br />

frame building, was constructed in 1906.<br />

Classes were conducted under the able leadership<br />

of Miss Kimball. By 1913, the district<br />

needed larger facilities to serve the increasing<br />

student enrollment, leading to construction of<br />

a two-story brick building. Its completion was<br />

celebrated with a dance. Heavy rain fell just<br />

before the event, leaving the freshly graded<br />

school grounds ankle deep in mud.<br />

Chivalrous men met the guests’ horse-drawn<br />

buggies and wagons in the street and carried<br />

the ladies across the muddy area, depositing<br />

them safely inside to enjoy the festivities.<br />

Raymondville High School began athletic<br />

competition in 1914, when boys interested in<br />

baseball met and partially cleared an area for<br />

use as the outfield, after which practices<br />

began. During that same year, the district’s<br />

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272


first commencement exercises were held, with<br />

a graduation class of four–all girls.<br />

The school library was opened to the entire<br />

community in 1915 to give all residents an<br />

opportunity to use its facilities. By 1920<br />

Raymondville had almost 1,000 residents and<br />

was growing. When a train bearing President<br />

Warren Harding and his party stopped briefly<br />

in the town of Raymondville, classes at the<br />

school were dismissed so that students would<br />

have the opportunity to shake the hand of the<br />

distinguished guests.<br />

The district’s first superintendent, V. H.<br />

Tumlinson, was employed in 1923, and further<br />

improvements followed. During the 1930s,<br />

Raymondville High School offered students a<br />

choice of the commercial, vocational, or college<br />

entrance curriculum. A local chapter of the<br />

Future Farmers of America was organized, and<br />

the district’s first band won a number of honors<br />

in various competitions. The 1940s<br />

brought organization of a local chapter of<br />

National Honor Society and a Student Council.<br />

In the 1950s, the school board purchased a 50-<br />

acre tract and built a new high school. The district<br />

also dedicated the Thomas Burnett<br />

Stadium, named for a member of<br />

Raymondville’s 1939 district championship<br />

football team, and completed construction of<br />

the Myra Green Junior High School.<br />

In the 1960s, the Raymondville <strong>Historic</strong>al<br />

and Community Center acquired the 1913<br />

school building, which was renovated to<br />

accommodate the Raymondville Chamber of<br />

Commerce, to provide space for historical<br />

exhibits and for use by the Willacy County<br />

Art League.<br />

By the beginning of the new millennium,<br />

Raymondville’s enrollment reached 2,834 students,<br />

and the district employed 207 classroom<br />

teachers, a staff of 36 administration and<br />

support personnel, and an auxiliary and paraprofessional<br />

staff of 217. The district operates<br />

on an annual budget in excess of $22 million.<br />

A seven-member board of trustees, Joe E.<br />

Martinez, Mark A. Brown, Sr., Zacarias<br />

Gonzales, Ramiro Ricones, Harry J. Cavazos,<br />

John R. Kellogg, and Victor Rublacaba governs<br />

the Raymondville Independent School<br />

District. Santos L. Lujan, Jr. serves as<br />

Superintendent of Schools.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

273


EDINBURG<br />

CONSOLIDATED<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Sophomore class of 1926-27<br />

was composed of eighty students. The class<br />

resolved to study hard and to leave social<br />

functions alone until they became<br />

upperclassmen. They chartered their goals<br />

with good will to master English, Latin,<br />

algebra, Spanish, and science. Class officers<br />

included Mildred Combs, president; Arthur<br />

Sigleton, vice president; Gordon Pruitt,<br />

secretary; Lorieta Hall, treasurer; and Don<br />

Zimmerman, sergeant-at-arms.<br />

Below: Stephen F. Austin Elementary School<br />

is the oldest of Edinburg CISD schools that<br />

remains operational today. The school,<br />

which was built in 1927, has undergone<br />

some renovations. Many of Edinburg’s city<br />

and school leaders throughout the years<br />

were once students at Austin Elementary.<br />

Today, the school boasts a student<br />

enrollment of approximately 340 with<br />

Dahlia Sanchez as principal.<br />

The Educational Center of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> of South Texas, the Edinburg<br />

Consolidated Independent School District<br />

(ECISD) is committed to providing the resources<br />

and opportunities for all students to achieve<br />

educational excellence. The district’s highly<br />

competitive salaries and generous employee<br />

benefits program, continuous remodeling and<br />

expansion program, strong discipline support<br />

and alternative program, and thousands of<br />

dedicated staff members combine to create an<br />

outstanding educational atmosphere.<br />

Location of the University of Texas/Pan<br />

American within the city offers great<br />

opportunities for the district’s staff to pursue<br />

advanced degrees while keeping informed<br />

about the latest in educational trends and<br />

teaching techniques. Edinburg, an “All America<br />

City,” is a closely-knit community that strongly<br />

emphasizes the value of a good education.<br />

The district encompasses 945 square miles,<br />

making it among the nation’s largest. It offers<br />

three 5-A high schools, four junior high<br />

schools, one alternative campus, and 24<br />

elementary schools. With a peak enrollment of<br />

21,014 students in 1998-99, the district<br />

continues to grow at the rate of 750-800<br />

students annually, making it one of the fastestgrowing<br />

districts in Texas. This growth has<br />

necessitated a continuing building program.<br />

Four new elementary schools and one new<br />

middle school opened in 1999. The district’s<br />

third high school, encompassing 285,000<br />

square feet opened August 11, 2000.<br />

The district’s patrons continue to recognize<br />

the needs of the rapidly growing district and to<br />

provide strong support for education. In<br />

December 1999, voters approved a $60 million<br />

school bond issue to construct three additional<br />

elementary schools, a career and technology high<br />

school, and to renovate ten existing schools.<br />

Under the Instruction Facilities Allotment fund<br />

seventy-three percent of these bonds will be paid<br />

by the state, leaving district taxpayers to assume<br />

the remaining twenty-seven percent.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

274


One of the district’s new elementary schools<br />

was officially dedicated on August 28, 2000, and<br />

was named for Melissa Dotson Betts, a long-time,<br />

Edinburg teacher. This is the first school in Texas’<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> to be named for an African<br />

American. Betts, a much-loved teacher of African-<br />

American children in the then-segregated George<br />

Washington Carver School of Edinburg, taught all<br />

of the first eight grades there until 1961. During<br />

the first two years after this school was closed, she<br />

was given administrative duties, then taught for<br />

two years at Edinburg High School, and spent the<br />

last five years of her teaching career at Austin<br />

Elementary School in Edinburg.<br />

School officials, who spoke during the<br />

ceremony of Betts’ dedication to her students,<br />

particularly mentioned her amazing ability to<br />

teach eight grades by herself, while always<br />

maintaining a positive attitude. Former students,<br />

who were instrumental in the effort to honor<br />

Betts through the new school’s name, recall her<br />

simple manner of teaching about cultural<br />

differences, in an era when this was not a popular<br />

thing to do. They praised the district’s decision to<br />

recognize the contributions of Betts and other<br />

African-Americans who have contributed to the<br />

rich history of ethnic community in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

ECISD’s 3,500 employees include over<br />

1,500 teachers and more than 700<br />

paraprofessionals. Its well-balanced elementary<br />

curriculum features small classes that<br />

concentrate on strong oral and written<br />

language programs. Edinburg’s proximity to<br />

Mexico makes the district’s bilingual program a<br />

crucial factor in helping many of the students<br />

cope with the acquisition of both language and<br />

concept. The district provides for half-day Pre-<br />

K classrooms as well as a gifted and talented<br />

elementary program. More than 500 teacher<br />

aides are assigned to the ECISD staff, primarily<br />

in Pre-K through first grade.<br />

The secondary schools offer a strong<br />

academic program with diversified courses in<br />

elective and vocational subjects, a sound<br />

health/physical fitness program, and an<br />

expanding computer and technology program.<br />

Other features include a primary prevention<br />

program on drug and alcohol abuse, a special<br />

education program to serve the needs of<br />

qualified students with disabilities, and programs<br />

in both fine arts and extra curricular activities.<br />

In its more than eighty-year history since<br />

election of the first school board on April 5,<br />

1919, with M. McIlhenny as board president,<br />

thirteen superintendents have led the Edinburg<br />

District. These have included W. E. Foster, H. C.<br />

Baker, R. P. Ward, H. A. Hodges, Dr. Ohland<br />

Morton, Thomas S. Pickens, Richard S. Evins,<br />

Dr. Ruben Gallegos, Jose Peralez Jr., Dr. Jim<br />

Chapman, Dr. Miguel de los Santos, Dr. Douglas<br />

Moore, and Mario Sotelo. Eugenio Gutierrez, a<br />

veteran educator with thirty-three years of<br />

experience, was named the district’s fourteenth<br />

superintendent in October 2000.<br />

District goals and objectives include<br />

professional development, technology, academic<br />

excellence, communications, parental involvement,<br />

and optimum learning environment.<br />

Individually these are seen as stepping stones to<br />

fulfilling the overall mission of the Edinburg<br />

Consolidated Independent School District’s<br />

TEAM—its board of trustees, administrators,<br />

teachers, staff and parents, in partnership with<br />

community and public educational agencies—<br />

providing the resources and opportunities for all<br />

students to achieve educational excellence.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Children are important part of the<br />

Edinburg District, which continues to grow<br />

at the rate of 800 students a year. In the<br />

2000-2001 school year, the District had a<br />

peak enrollment of 22,370 students of which<br />

12,332 were enrolled in the District’s<br />

twenty-four elementary schools. The<br />

District’s aim is to help every child<br />

succeed academically.<br />

Below: One of the Edinburg CISD’s oldest<br />

elementary schools William B. Travis<br />

Elementary. Built in 1950, the school today<br />

holds approximately 370 students grades<br />

Pre-K through fifth under Edna Olivarez as<br />

principal. The school has undergone some<br />

renovation from its original presentation.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

275


ROMA<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

One of Texas’ most historic areas, the land<br />

that is now included in the Roma<br />

Independent School District was one of the<br />

first inhabited regions in Texas. The district is<br />

located on U.S. Highway 83, halfway between<br />

the cities of Laredo and Brownsville, and is<br />

adjacent to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> River, which<br />

serves as a natural border between Deep<br />

South Texas and Northern Mexico.<br />

A rich blend of “Old Mexico” and modern<br />

Texas, the district is enriched by this diversity<br />

of cultures, and the growing community<br />

includes among its residents some who can<br />

trace their ancestors back to the Spanish<br />

colonists who settled the region in the<br />

fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.<br />

The City of Roma serves as the principal<br />

commercial area of this school district, which<br />

covers over 490 square miles of land. Several<br />

townships and small communities are also<br />

located within the district, which proudly serves<br />

a highly concentrated Hispanic population.<br />

Falcon Lake, which is in the northwest<br />

corner of the school district, is the primary<br />

source of water for the area, and also provides<br />

a portion of the area with its electrical power.<br />

Noted for its friendly people, the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> border area offers a variety of<br />

cultural events and happenings available to<br />

residents on both sides of the river, providing<br />

both social and a commercial activities to suit<br />

varying interests.<br />

Roma Independent School District benefits<br />

from an economy based primarily on mineral<br />

extraction and ranching. The district’s current<br />

Maintenance and Operations tax rate is $1.50<br />

per $100 valuation (up from a 1994 tax rate<br />

of 90 cents). No Interest and Sinking Fund<br />

tax is included. Calculated on a collections<br />

rate of 85 percent for the 1999-2000 school<br />

year, the district’s budget has been estimated<br />

at $32.2 million, consisting primarily of state<br />

and federal funding sources.<br />

Nine campuses make up the physical plant<br />

of the school district. These schools include:<br />

Roma High School, which has 1,524 students<br />

in grades 9-12; Roma Middle School, with<br />

917 students in grades 7 and 8; Roma<br />

Intermediate School, with 1,071 students in<br />

grades 4, 5, and 6; Y. B. Escobar Elementary,<br />

with 634 students in Pre-Kindergarten<br />

through grade 5; F. J. Scott Elementary, with<br />

469 students in Kindergarten through third<br />

grade; Emma Vera Elementary, which has 516<br />

students in Kindergarten through third grade;<br />

R. T. Barrera Elementary, with 475 students in<br />

Kindergarten through third grade; Ana S.<br />

Canavan Elementary with 362 students in<br />

Pre-Kindergarten and Headstart; and<br />

Alas/I&G Alternative Center, a dropout<br />

recovery school and discipline management<br />

campus that serves thirty-four students with<br />

special needs.<br />

The Roma school students’ performance in<br />

academics and co-curricular activities is a<br />

source of pride for the district. The Roma High<br />

School music program has achieved numerous<br />

honors. The High School Mariachi Music<br />

Program, Marching Band, and Choral Music<br />

students have been invited to perform at<br />

various functions at the nation’s capital. In<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

276


addition, teams in sports, dance and drill<br />

team, as well as Ballet Folkloric teams are<br />

maintained at all campuses and for students of<br />

all ages, as part of the district’s University<br />

Interscholastic League programs.<br />

Roma ISD students maintain a high attendance<br />

ratio, along with low dropout rates that<br />

have made the district the focus of numerous<br />

success studies.<br />

The district is fortunate in the high quality<br />

of its leadership, as well as its professional<br />

and support staff. The Roma ISD board of<br />

trustees includes Celia R. Saenz, president;<br />

Fausto Garza, vice president; Elisa Vera-<br />

Lujano, secretary; Juan J. Garcia, Romeo<br />

Gonzalez, Raymond P. Mussett, M.D., and<br />

Roque Rosales, members. Jesus O. Guerra Jr.<br />

serves as superintendent of schools.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

277


SOUTH TEXAS<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Science Academy research and<br />

development class prepares students for the<br />

rigors of scientific research.<br />

Below: Through hands-on activities, Med<br />

High students practice necessary skills in the<br />

medical field of their choice.<br />

The widely varied curriculum available<br />

through the four campuses of this innovative<br />

district provides a unique opportunity for the<br />

South Texas Independent School District to<br />

serve the individual educational and vocational<br />

needs of students from throughout its<br />

service area.<br />

Students living in twenty-eight school<br />

districts in a three-county area are offered the<br />

opportunity to focus on vocational development<br />

through a variety of programs offered<br />

by South Texas ISD. Each campus—the<br />

Science Academy in Mercedes; South Texas<br />

High School in San Benito; South Texas High<br />

School for Health Professions (Med High) in<br />

Mercedes; and the Teacher Academy in<br />

Edinburg—provides a specialized, focused<br />

education with an advanced academic curriculum<br />

that gives students an insider’s look at<br />

the career fields of medicine, math, science,<br />

architecture, engineering, and teaching.<br />

Students are exposed to extraordinary realworld<br />

experiences. Examples of past experiences<br />

include meeting a Nobel Prize-winning<br />

chemist, observing open-heart surgery, and<br />

leading school children on museum tours.<br />

The district and each of its rated campuses<br />

have received Exemplary Accountability<br />

Ratings from the Texas Education Agency, and<br />

Med High received the 1995 U.S. Department<br />

of Education Secretary’s Award for<br />

Outstanding Vocational-Technical Programs.<br />

The Texas Legislature initially developed<br />

South Texas ISD in 1963 as a rehabilitation<br />

district. After becoming an independent<br />

school district in 1967, lawmakers extended<br />

the district’s purpose in 1983 to permit the<br />

operation of vocational magnet schools. Med<br />

High opened in 1984, followed by the Science<br />

Academy in 1989, and the Teacher Academy<br />

in 1993. All are state-accredited, tuition-free,<br />

public magnet high schools.<br />

South Texas ISD receives its funding<br />

from state and federal sources, and from<br />

property taxpayers in Cameron, Hidalgo, and<br />

Willacy Counties. A nineteen-member board of<br />

directors includes both elected and appointed<br />

representatives; they serve a three-county area.<br />

The rigorous curriculum and strong teaching<br />

staff at the Science Academy prepares students<br />

for the fields of math, science, engineering, architecture<br />

and computer science. The school has<br />

enjoyed membership in the College Entrance<br />

Examination Board and received the Governor’s<br />

High Performance Award in both 1992-93 and<br />

1993-94. Beginning in the fall of 2000, students<br />

have the opportunity to enroll in the Science<br />

Academy three-year graduation program.<br />

Through this program, students earn the<br />

required high school credits in only three years.<br />

Partners that continue to help make for an<br />

educational success include Rice University,<br />

Baylor College of Medicine, the University of<br />

Texas-Pan American, and the South Texas<br />

Hospital Laboratory.<br />

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Med High also enjoys partnerships with<br />

Baylor College of Medicine, Rice University,<br />

and the University of Texas-Pan American, as<br />

well as with many local businesses. The<br />

school combines strong academic preparation<br />

with hands-on experience and exploration of<br />

the various health fields. Senior students wear<br />

scrubs for their clinical rotations at hospitals,<br />

such as Knapp Memorial, McAllen Medical,<br />

and <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist, and other medical facilities<br />

with whom the school partners. Advanced<br />

placement and pre-advanced placement<br />

courses are available as are concurrent enrollment<br />

courses for college credit.<br />

Serving students with special needs, South<br />

Texas High School-San Benito prepares student<br />

aptitudes to ensure each student his highest<br />

potential. Life skills programs and programs<br />

for those with severe and profound disabilities<br />

are available. Related services for students<br />

include occupational and physical therapy,<br />

registered nursing, speech therapy, social<br />

services, counseling, transitional services and<br />

parent support services. In addition to<br />

academic courses ranging from English to<br />

desktop publishing, the school offers career<br />

and technology training including animal and<br />

plant production, business support services,<br />

home economics, building trades, auto<br />

specialization, and welding. Students may<br />

participate in on-campus, on-site, and on-thejob<br />

training. Some disabled students attend<br />

local high schools for academic courses while<br />

receiving career and technology training at<br />

South Texas High School.<br />

The Teacher Academy emphasizes strong<br />

academic preparation and hands-on experiences<br />

allowing students to explore the education field.<br />

Upperclassmen gain real teaching experience in<br />

cooperation with several area school districts<br />

and museums. Advance placement and concurrent<br />

enrollment courses are offered. Teacher<br />

Academy partners include Southwest Texas<br />

State University, Stephen F. Austin University,<br />

and the University of Texas-Pan American.<br />

Opened in 1998, Biblioteca Las Américas is a<br />

twenty-first century library facility designed to<br />

serve up to 2,500 students and house up to<br />

50,000 volumes. Equipped with the latest<br />

technological tools, the library is a resource for<br />

students from the Science Academy and Med<br />

High, as well as patrons of the district. The<br />

library features a 135-seat conference room,<br />

desktop publishing center, video production<br />

studio, video editing rooms, conference rooms,<br />

and a classroom.<br />

Throughout the years of change and<br />

development, South Texas ISD has upheld<br />

its commitment to education and the students<br />

that it serves. Hard work and dedication have<br />

helped the district succeed in its mission<br />

to prepare students with specialized needs,<br />

interests, and aptitudes to be effective,<br />

productive citizens living successfully in a<br />

democratic society.<br />

Visit South Texas ISD on-line at<br />

www.stisd.net or call 1-800-21-STUDY.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Through valuable classroom<br />

training, students at South Texas High<br />

School in San Benito gain workplace skills.<br />

Below: Teacher Academy upperclassmen<br />

gain real teaching experience through<br />

partnership programs with surrounding<br />

school districts.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

279


✧<br />

Above: <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City High School.<br />

Below: Alto Bonito Elementary.<br />

RIO GRANDE CITY CONSOLIDATED<br />

INDEPENDENT SCHOOL DISTRICT<br />

Taking pride in both its unique history and<br />

its many present-day accomplishments, the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City Consolidated Independent School<br />

District works to achieve its vision statement,<br />

exemplifying “achievement, credibility, and<br />

commitment in preparing all students to meet<br />

the academic, creative, and social challenges<br />

and responsibilities of our society.”<br />

The district’s history is entwined with that of<br />

Fort Ringgold, which was established October<br />

26, 1848, as one of five army posts built along<br />

the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> River to defend border<br />

settlements against Indians and Mexican<br />

raiding parties. By the time Fort Ringgold was<br />

declared surplus in 1944, the school district<br />

had been in operation for over thirty years,<br />

having begun classes in the Mifflin Kenedy<br />

Warehouse at Water and Texas Streets in 1885.<br />

The Fort Ringgold site, on the north bank of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> River, about a hundred miles<br />

southwest of Brownsville, leased by the federal<br />

government from <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City founders<br />

Hilaria de la Garza and her husband, Henry Clay<br />

Davis, was chosen as an observation post. Only<br />

five miles from a strong garrison at Carmargo,<br />

Mexico, it was at the head of steam navigation for<br />

supplying posts further up the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> River.<br />

One of the most elaborate posts along the border,<br />

Fort Ringgold housed U.S. soldiers under<br />

Zachary Taylor and later those who guarded<br />

against raids led by Juan N. Cortina of Mexico, as<br />

well as Confederate forces during the Civil War.<br />

It had a combination of permanent and<br />

temporary structures. Some of the old buildings,<br />

including the former post hospital, barracks,<br />

bakery, guardhouse, headquarters, officers’<br />

quarters, warehouses and storehouses, are still<br />

used by the school district. The 1869 and 1920<br />

barracks buildings, each designed as quarters for<br />

eighty enlisted men, have been remodeled to serve<br />

as functional classrooms. <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City school<br />

facilities located at this site include an elementary,<br />

fifth grade, middle school, alternative center,<br />

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280


central kitchen, football field, transportation<br />

department, health services department, district<br />

warehouse, maintenance department, auditorium,<br />

Community Multipurpose Center, and numerous<br />

offices. The high school, located here until 1997,<br />

is now in new facilities on FM 3167. An additional<br />

two new elementary schools are to be located in<br />

neighborhood areas away from the fort, leaving<br />

the historic site to house special project schools,<br />

administrative offices, a middle school, and an<br />

elementary school.<br />

The district’s almost 9,000 students live in a<br />

400-square-mile area including <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City<br />

and 37 surrounding communities, including La<br />

Casita, Garciasville, La Grulla, and Alto Bonito.<br />

Student demographics reflect a 99.7 percent<br />

Hispanic population whose predominant home<br />

language is Spanish. Because of the district’s<br />

proximity to Mexico—less than three miles<br />

away—there is a first-year immigrant student<br />

enrollment of 200-250 annually.<br />

The district employs 548 teachers, 186<br />

instructional paraprofessionals, 99 professional<br />

support staff, 26 campus administrators, and 4<br />

central office administrators. Their cooperative<br />

efforts are reflected by significant gains in<br />

students’ TAAS results, with efforts continuing<br />

toward further improvements.<br />

Recognizing the critical need to provide<br />

good education at all levels; <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City<br />

CISD makes every effort to focus on<br />

instituting instructional programs in which all<br />

students can succeed. Each campus is charged<br />

with the responsibility of providing an<br />

education where all students can attain<br />

educational equity and excellence. TAAS<br />

ratings for Spring 2000 showed eight<br />

campuses receiving an “acceptable” rating and<br />

three receiving “recognized” status. The<br />

district credits these improvements in student<br />

performance primarily to a dedicated staff and<br />

the proper implementation of the reading,<br />

writing, and mathematics curriculum, which<br />

has been carefully aligned to the Texas<br />

Essential Knowledge and Skills (TEKS) and<br />

TAAS objectives.<br />

The district has received acclaim for students’<br />

performance in several extra-curricular activities<br />

related to academic pursuits. In one of these,<br />

“Odyssey of the Mind,” several elementary<br />

campuses have achieved regional and state<br />

awards and have advanced to world finals. Most<br />

recently, three teams placed first at state level<br />

and traveled to Knoxville, Tennessee, where all<br />

did well, and one, the Ringgold Fifth Grade<br />

Team, won first place among forty-one teams<br />

from China, Germany, Peru, France, and several<br />

other countries in the World Competition. The<br />

Grulla Middle School team has consistently<br />

received national recognition in the HOSTS<br />

(Helping One Student to Succeed) program for<br />

Language Arts, with participants demonstrating<br />

significant gains in reading levels. In other areas,<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City High School Band has a<br />

long tradition of excellence in music, including<br />

marching and concert band competition and the<br />

selective process of All-Region, All-Area, and<br />

All-State students. Special Education students<br />

who participate in the annual Special Olympics<br />

have earned numerous gold, silver and bronze<br />

medals, to add to the district’s pride as it strives<br />

to reach its ultimate goal of providing the best<br />

possible education for all its students.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Ringgold Elementary. Old barracks<br />

from Fort Ringgold were converted into<br />

classrooms.<br />

Below: The Ringgold Elementary Fifth<br />

Grade Team won first place at the<br />

international “Odyssey of the Mind”<br />

competition.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

281


MERCEDES<br />

INDEPENDENT<br />

SCHOOL<br />

DISTRICT<br />

Soon after the town of Mercedes was<br />

settled in 1907, residents began working<br />

toward establishment of schools for their<br />

children. County Superintendent H. A. Marsh<br />

and a seven-member board acquired rooms at<br />

the corner of Ohio and Third Streets and<br />

furnished the schoolrooms with benches,<br />

desks, a clock, posters and a blackboard.<br />

Four teachers employed to serve the district<br />

were E. L. Horton, who also served as<br />

principal; Fred Johnson, Adela Shields, and<br />

Agapita Tijerina.<br />

Parents purchased the books, paper, and<br />

other supplies needed by the students, but the<br />

school did have a library consisting of French,<br />

Latin, medicine, and science books donated<br />

by Dr. T. W. Carter from his private library.<br />

In 1909 the district bought more land<br />

and began planning for building additions,<br />

even though the source of funding for the<br />

projects was of serious concern. A $15,000<br />

bond election was called for June 1909. The<br />

pro-school sentiment was unanimous, and the<br />

bond issue was approved by a whopping 47-0<br />

margin. These bonds provided the funds for<br />

additional rooms at both schools.<br />

The cash crunch was far from over, however.<br />

Teachers had to be paid from “incidental funds”<br />

in order to continue the school for the entire<br />

nine-month term, but in May 1910, voters<br />

approved a property tax levy. However, the<br />

election was fraught with so many irregularities<br />

it was finally decided by the court.<br />

The school tax, along with a tuition charge<br />

of $1 per month for students under age seven<br />

and over eighteen, financed the purchase of<br />

equipment. As is often the case, the timing of<br />

tax payments lagged behind the district’s<br />

needs, necessitating stop-gap measures such as<br />

obtaining loans and renting schoolrooms for<br />

lodge meetings and music lessons. Despite<br />

these and other problems, however, the<br />

district’s first graduate, Marian Riess (Haslam)<br />

received her diploma in 1914.<br />

Army personnel, stationed in Mercedes to<br />

protect residents from raids by bandits along<br />

the border, used the school auditorium for<br />

socials and other events. The facilities were also<br />

used by several religious denominations, which<br />

held services in the schools. In exchange for<br />

this use, they paid the electric bill, brought<br />

wood for fires, or paid rent of $50 per month.<br />

✧<br />

The newly renovated Mercedes High<br />

School (above) and Taylor Elementary<br />

School (right).<br />

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282


The economic depression that gripped the<br />

country beginning in 1929 seriously affected<br />

Mercedes schools for several years. By 1932 tax<br />

and budget cuts were instituted, salaries<br />

reduced, and some positions were eliminated.<br />

In lieu of paychecks, school personnel received<br />

notes that had to be held for a certain period<br />

before cashing, but paid interest of 8 percent.<br />

Exacerbating the financial woes, a severe<br />

hurricane struck the area on September 4,<br />

1933, damaging some buildings and rendering<br />

at least one, the old South School, unusable.<br />

That site was sold and material from the<br />

building used to repair other school facilities.<br />

By 1958 three elementary schools were added<br />

and the current high school was built in 1967.<br />

Sixteen Superintendents have led Mercedes<br />

schools. Monte Churchill retired in 1997 after<br />

serving seventeen years as superintendent, the<br />

longest term held to date. Current<br />

Superintendent Jesus Gandara began his<br />

duties at Mercedes ISD in July 1997.<br />

Mercedes schools today have little<br />

resemblance to the schools of the early 1900’s.<br />

With eight schools and enrollment just under<br />

5,000 students, Mercedes ISD now has 750<br />

employees. Bond elections totaling over $30<br />

million allowed for much needed renovation<br />

and new construction. Recently Mercedes High<br />

School and Taylor Elementary were renovated<br />

and projected completion for a new pre-Kinder<br />

and Kindergarten school is August 2001.<br />

Construction of a new elementary school to be<br />

named after U.S. Congressman Ruben E.<br />

Hinojosa, a graduate of Mercedes High School,<br />

should be completed by May 2002.<br />

Today, as it has been throughout its history,<br />

Mercedes ISD is dedicated to providing the<br />

best possible education for all its students.<br />

The goal of the District is that each student<br />

who graduates from Mercedes High School<br />

will be fully prepared to attend any university<br />

he/she may choose.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Monica Moreno, Michelle Castillo,<br />

Eric Gonzalez and David Cordosa proudly<br />

display the Texas Education Agency<br />

Recognized flag.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

283


TEXAS A&M<br />

AND<br />

USDA<br />

RESEARCH<br />

CENTERS<br />

✧<br />

The Texas A&M University System<br />

Agricultural Research and Extension Center<br />

at Weslaco was established in 1923.<br />

Beginning in 1750 Mexican and Spanish<br />

pioneers settled south Texas and northern<br />

Mexico. Without means to draw plentiful<br />

water supplies from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, the<br />

settlers carved cattle ranches out of the harsh<br />

brush country.<br />

By the turn of the twentieth century, wars<br />

and treaties had established the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> as<br />

the sometimes-meandering boundary between<br />

the United States and Mexico. And by 1910 all<br />

the elements were in place for what would<br />

become a thriving agricultural breadbasket in<br />

extreme south Texas–rich delta soil, a favorable<br />

growing climate, a vast irrigation system built<br />

by land companies, railroads to move people<br />

into the area and produce out, and an ample<br />

labor market made up mostly of refugees from<br />

Mexico’s bloody revolution of 1910.<br />

By 1920 area farmers, mostly from the<br />

Midwest, called upon the state Legislature to<br />

fund local, scientific agricultural research that<br />

would help make them better producers. In<br />

1923 state and local funds paid for a 120-acre<br />

tract of land to house agricultural experiment<br />

facilities managed by the state’s land grant<br />

college, Texas A&M University.<br />

The facilities and its original staff,<br />

headquartered near Weslaco in the central<br />

part of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, soon<br />

began experimenting with a host of field<br />

crops, fruits and vegetables. So successful was<br />

this early research in developing new varieties<br />

of horticultural products, the local<br />

agricultural industry boomed. Growers<br />

prospered as trainloads of cotton, citrus and<br />

vegetables, including tomatoes, cabbage,<br />

melons, peppers and onions were shipped<br />

daily throughout the country year-round.<br />

The original Research Center has today grown<br />

into a sprawling campus of several state and<br />

federal research agencies employing some sixty<br />

Ph.D. scientists and several hundred support<br />

staff. Their basic mission is to keep the local and<br />

national agricultural industry competitive in the<br />

growing global agricultural economy.<br />

The agencies include the Texas Agricultural<br />

Experiment Station, Texas Cooperative<br />

Extension, Texas A&M-Kingsville Citrus<br />

Center, Texas A&M University-Corpus Christi,<br />

and the USDA ARS Kika de la Garza Subtropical<br />

Agricultural Research Center.<br />

The Experiment Station’s research includes<br />

work on sugarcane breeding and disease and<br />

insect management, vegetable Integrated Pest<br />

Management (IPM), vegetable diseases, virus<br />

diseases, melon and pepper breeding,<br />

ornamental plant research, irrigation, soil and<br />

fertility studies, and local and distance<br />

education. It also supports other scientists in the<br />

Texas A&M University System researching corn,<br />

sorghum, cotton and other crops.<br />

Texas Cooperative Extension joined the<br />

Weslaco Center complex shortly after World<br />

War II and disseminates to the local<br />

agricultural community the information<br />

generated by the Experiment Station.<br />

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284


Education programs of Extension’s Family<br />

and Consumer Science faculty promote family<br />

well-being, community collaboration, youth<br />

develop-ment, environmental stewardship,<br />

and a better understanding of agriculture.<br />

The Texas A&M-Kingsville Citrus Center at<br />

Weslaco began operations in the mid-1940s<br />

when local growers approached the then-Texas<br />

College of Arts and Industries, Kingsville<br />

(Texas A&I) to establish a research facility<br />

specializing in citriculture. With the help of<br />

state and local industry funds, citrus research<br />

facilities expanded in 1992 when Texas A&I<br />

merged with Texas A&M, and the Citrus<br />

Center strengthened ties with the nearby Texas<br />

A&M Research and Extension Center.<br />

Scientists currently conduct extensive citrus<br />

research in the areas of biotechnology,<br />

economics, pathology, entomology, breeding/horticulture<br />

and post-harvest physiology,<br />

plus teaching and technology transfer. <strong>Rio</strong><br />

Red, a deep-colored grapefruit, is an example<br />

of the fruits of this research.<br />

The Agricultural Research Service (ARS) is the<br />

chief scientific research agency of the U.S.<br />

Department of Agriculture. ARS’ Kika de la Garza<br />

Subtropical Agricultural Research Center is part<br />

of a unique concentration of research, education,<br />

and extension institutions at Weslaco.<br />

The Kika de la Garza SARC had its origins in<br />

1931. In 1938 it was known as the Fruit and<br />

Vegetable Products Laboratory, later changed to<br />

the Food Crops Utilization Research Laboratory.<br />

Today, the USDA Center has three research<br />

units employing 123 people, including 33<br />

scientists conducting research of regional,<br />

national and international significance.<br />

The Crop Quality and Fruit Insects Research<br />

Unit conducts research on post-harvest<br />

problems of fresh commodities, including pest<br />

management and maintenance of quality.<br />

The Integrated Farming & Natural Resources<br />

Research Unit develops scientific information<br />

and technologies to develop more profitable and<br />

sustainable crop production systems and areawide<br />

pest management strategies.<br />

The Beneficial Insects Research Unit develops<br />

scientific knowledge and biologicallybased<br />

technology to enhance the role of natural<br />

enemies for control of key insect pests and<br />

weeds. A new research area for the unit is the<br />

glassy-winged sharpshooter. This research is<br />

being done in cooperation with APHIS and<br />

the California Drug and Food Administration.<br />

The Honey Bee Research Unit, part of the<br />

Beneficial Insects Research Unit, develops<br />

technology for managing honey bees in the<br />

presence of Africanized honey bees, parasitic<br />

mites and other pests, including diseases and<br />

stress of honey bees used in honey production<br />

and pollination.<br />

Despite the advent and prosperity of other<br />

subsequent south Texas industries, including<br />

manufacturing, tourism and retail sales, agriculture<br />

can lay claim to being the original<br />

industry that propelled the area to the booming<br />

growth it enjoys today.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Texas A&M University-<br />

Kingsville Citrus Center dates to the<br />

mid-1940s.<br />

Below: The entrance to the Kika de la<br />

Garza Subtropical Agricultural Research<br />

Center on Business 83.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

285


MARINE<br />

MILITARY<br />

ACADEMY<br />

✧<br />

Above: A Marine Military Academy cadet<br />

“hits the books.”<br />

Below: Cadets are shown in formation at the<br />

MMA parade grounds.<br />

In the early sixties, an Arizona rancher and<br />

former Marine, Bill Gary, wanted to send his<br />

son to a private military school that embraced<br />

the same ideology as the U.S. Marine Corps.<br />

He found none. Politics were tumultuous, causing<br />

a decline in all military schools. Captain<br />

Gary wanted a school that focused on college<br />

preparation while concurrently teaching the<br />

responsibilities of leadership, teamwork, individual<br />

accountability and moral values. He<br />

founded the Marine Military Academy in<br />

September 1965, offering an educational program<br />

based on the Marine Corps concepts of<br />

focus, fraternity and esprit de corps.<br />

Providing a solid, college-preparatory education<br />

is the primary purpose of the Marine<br />

Military Academy. Small classes, a focused curriculum,<br />

and balanced course offerings in math,<br />

literature, science, history and written communications<br />

prepare students for the competition<br />

they will experience at the university level.<br />

At the Marine Military Academy, leadership<br />

is a doctrine and a heritage, based on the concept<br />

that true leadership is learned from<br />

observation, experience, and emulation. The<br />

Academy provides the laboratory for this<br />

development. The faculty and drill instructors<br />

lead and teach by example, providing the<br />

combination of education, opportunities, and<br />

tradition that form a solid foundation<br />

throughout a man’s life.<br />

Cadets who set their sights on a position of<br />

responsibility within the Corps of Cadets must<br />

prove they have what it takes. Many demands<br />

are made on them. No one is born a leader, yet<br />

many cadets graduate with the leadership<br />

qualities necessary in the business world.<br />

Cadets participate in physical activity after<br />

a full day of academic studies. This athletic<br />

training and competition teaches teamwork,<br />

discipline and sportsmanship, while maintaining<br />

a healthy body.<br />

A Naval Honor School, the Marine<br />

Military Academy is a recognized preparatory<br />

school for the U.S. Naval Academy, U.S. Air<br />

Force Academy and the U.S. Military<br />

Academy (West Point).<br />

The Academy also offers special programs<br />

such as a five-week intensive English as a<br />

Second Language (ESL) experience. Students<br />

attend classes six days a week, learning to<br />

speak, read, and write contemporary American<br />

English. After school, they participate in sports<br />

and physical fitness in a military environment.<br />

A four-week Summer Military Camp<br />

offers an extraordinary adventure for boys<br />

13-17. In a structured, disciplined, militarystyle<br />

environment, campers can acquire selfconfidence,<br />

teamwork and problem-solving<br />

skills through activities such as the Marine<br />

Corps-style obstacle course, drill, hikes,<br />

paint ball, pugil stick training, speed march<br />

reaction course, rappelling, and scaling the<br />

climbing wall.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

286


Recognizing that higher education is an<br />

indispensable tool to meet the challenges of<br />

the twenty-first century, Texas State Technical<br />

College Harlingen provides a quality education<br />

with hands-on training for its students.<br />

The school’s highly specialized technical programs<br />

reflect the business and technological<br />

manpower needs of Texas.<br />

“TSTC graduates possess the knowledge<br />

and skills that help employers remain competitive<br />

in the global marketplace,” says Dr. J.<br />

Gilbert Leal, president. “Technical education<br />

is not merely a last chance or a consolation for<br />

those not pursuing a university education. It’s<br />

a wise choice for even the brightest students.<br />

Our students have a passion to learn and the<br />

ability to put that knowledge to work.”<br />

Partnerships with business, industry, and<br />

community leaders enable TSTC to offer<br />

instruction in the most current technology<br />

trends. The supportive faculty, who are experts<br />

in their fields, can immerse students in real<br />

world laboratory settings. Once students have<br />

completed their course work at TSTC, they<br />

transition smoothly into their chosen careers.<br />

TSTC Harlingen takes pride in the placement<br />

rate of its graduates—ninety-five percent. The<br />

college excels nationally in the number of<br />

Hispanic graduates in engineering-related<br />

technologies, computer information science<br />

technologies, and health science technologies.<br />

Since its founding in 1969 on the site of an<br />

abandoned Air Force base, TSTC Harlingen has<br />

grown into a 125-acre campus with over<br />

10,000 full-, part-time, and contract training<br />

students. It is a coeducational, state funded,<br />

accredited institution of technical education<br />

and training with more than thirty courses of<br />

study. Associate of Applied Science Degrees or<br />

Certificates of Completion are awarded to<br />

graduates of programs in health, business,<br />

computers, electronics, agricultural, industrial,<br />

and manufacturing.<br />

With a student body as diverse as the programs<br />

of study offered, TSTC’s student activities<br />

and organizations are integral to personal<br />

development. Affordable programs, intensive<br />

counseling, childcare facilities, and student<br />

housing are among the services that enable<br />

students to concentrate on their educational<br />

goals, graduating in two years or less.<br />

TSTC continues to develop technical education<br />

and training programs for business and<br />

industry. It is responsive to the needs of both<br />

emerging and advanced industrial and technological<br />

companies. TSTC has customized<br />

courses for retraining employees, introducing<br />

newly evolved technical procedures, and<br />

updating skills.<br />

“Education is a process of ongoing discovery,”<br />

says Dr. Leal. “The first important discovery<br />

for students is that Texas State<br />

Technical College Harlingen is the springboard<br />

for their future.”<br />

TEXAS STATE<br />

TECHNICAL<br />

COLLEGE<br />

HARLINGEN<br />

EDUCATION<br />

287


REGION ONE<br />

EDUCATION<br />

SERVICE CENTER<br />

✧<br />

Below: Region One Education Service Center.<br />

Bottom: Developing new and exciting<br />

approaches to teaching is one of the goals of<br />

the Region One Education Service Center<br />

Even before the Fifty-ninth Texas<br />

Legislature established regional education<br />

service centers in 1965, schools in the South<br />

Texas area pooled their resources to form coops<br />

for media services, professional development,<br />

and curriculum development. When<br />

this South Texas association successfully lobbied<br />

the legislature to create twenty regional<br />

centers in the state, the South Texas region<br />

was given the distinction of Region One<br />

Education Service Center. It is located in<br />

Edinburg near the campus of the University of<br />

Texas-Pan American.<br />

Encompassing over ninety-six hundred<br />

square miles in South Texas, Region One<br />

provides services to Cameron, Hidalgo,<br />

Willacy, Starr, Webb, Jim Hogg, and Zapata<br />

Counties. It serves 39 school districts with<br />

512 campuses and over 300,000 students.<br />

Region One serves a unique student<br />

population. Leading the state in the number<br />

of Hispanic students and the number of<br />

Spanish-speaking, low income, and migrant<br />

students, educators have taken on the task of<br />

ensuring that these students receive a quality<br />

education and the same opportunities as their<br />

counterparts around the state.<br />

To achieve this goal, Region One is<br />

committed to providing professional<br />

development opportunities to enhance<br />

learning in the classroom. Activities held<br />

throughout the year include conferences, staff<br />

development workshops, advisory councils,<br />

and cooperatives geared toward preparing<br />

educators to serve the student in the classroom.<br />

Initially the purpose of the education<br />

service centers was to provide regional media<br />

services. Over the past thirty-four years their<br />

purpose has greatly expanded. Today, in<br />

addition to the areas of media and technology,<br />

school districts can rely on their service center<br />

to provide technical assistance in the areas of<br />

curriculum and instruction, student services,<br />

administrative training, and business<br />

procedures and application.<br />

Their main objectives are to assist school<br />

districts in improving student performance, to<br />

operate more efficiently and economically,<br />

and to implement initiatives assigned by<br />

the legislature or by the state commissioner<br />

of education.<br />

“Students First” is the motto of Region<br />

One, and all activities are geared to improve<br />

the education offered to the students in its<br />

service area. Its student population continues<br />

to grow annually, making it one of the fastest<br />

growing service center areas in the state.<br />

Region One focuses on the future by<br />

providing leadership, promoting communities<br />

of learners, creating networks, influencing<br />

and supporting the use of appropriate<br />

technologies, and building capacity for<br />

change in its educators and the students<br />

they teach.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

288


Deborah Case Dance Academy is the official<br />

school of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Ballet, founded<br />

in 1972 by Doria Avila and Alfred Gallagher.<br />

The Academy offers instruction in ballet, jazz,<br />

tap, folkloric, flamenco, and tumbling to over<br />

400 students in McAllen. Classes are offered<br />

year round for training never stops and neither<br />

does striving towards dance excellence.<br />

A Texas Christian University education<br />

graduate, Deborah Case joined <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Ballet in 1979 as a dancer, soon becoming<br />

principal dancer and an instructor. When<br />

Gallagher and Avila retired in 1993, they named<br />

Case the company’s artistic director and turned<br />

the Ballet over to her. The Academy and its<br />

performing wing, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Ballet,<br />

are located in the landmark building once<br />

known as the McAllen Festival Center, designed<br />

in the 1940s by Zeb Rike. Light from the<br />

Academy’s original high windows illuminates<br />

students perfecting dance movements in front of<br />

the mirrored walls. Nearby, young ballerinas<br />

practice pliés at the barres. Academy students<br />

attend dance conventions and workshops to<br />

expand their knowledge of dance. They also<br />

participate in ballet and jazz competitions where<br />

they consistently are highly ranked. Deborah<br />

Case Dance Academy students perform in an<br />

annual recital every May.<br />

DEBORAH CASE DANCE ACADEMY<br />

One hundred of the Academy’s students who<br />

are deeply committed to dance are members of<br />

the performing company known as the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Ballet. Besides training during the<br />

week, the students attend ballet rehearsals on<br />

weekends. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Ballet’s<br />

Nutcracker, presented six times each December<br />

at the McAllen Civic Center, is the longest<br />

running show in the city, having begun in 1972.<br />

In the spring the company presents Festival of<br />

Dance. <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Ballet is on the roster<br />

of the Texas Commission on The Arts Touring<br />

Program, giving performances in Galveston, San<br />

Antonio, Fort Worth, and other cities. Recently<br />

the RGV Ballet became part of the Heartland Arts<br />

Fund program and is touring nationwide.<br />

Community outreach includes performing across<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> for schools and civic events.<br />

The Academy’s summer program includes<br />

several national and international guest artists<br />

who come for one month to teach the advanced<br />

students, honing their skills and enriching their<br />

dance lore. “Summer is when the best training<br />

happens,” says Case. Some of her students are<br />

now university dance majors and one has a full<br />

scholarship at School of American Ballet.<br />

Among the Academy’s eight instructors are<br />

dance graduates who have returned to the<br />

school to reach a new generation of students<br />

from three years old to adult.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Belinda Santos, principal dancer.<br />

Below: Dana Creech, principal dancer.<br />

EDUCATION<br />

289


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

290


QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

healthcare providers, churches,<br />

and families that contribute to the<br />

quality of life in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Catholic Diocese of Brownsville.....................................................292<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center.......................................................296<br />

Golden Palms Retirement & Health Center......................................300<br />

Marion R. Lawler, Jr., M.D...........................................................301<br />

Brownsville Regional Medical Center..............................................302<br />

St. Paul Lutheran Church.............................................................305<br />

John Knox Village .......................................................................306<br />

The Krishnan Family...................................................................309<br />

The Lloyd Bentsen Family ............................................................310<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor ..................................................................312<br />

Cardiovascular Associates ............................................................314<br />

The Dyer Family ........................................................................316<br />

Planned Parenthood Association of Hidalgo County ..........................318<br />

Planned Parenthood Association of Cameron & Willacy Counties ........319<br />

Food Bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Inc.........................................320<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Medical Center.....................................................321<br />

Heart Clinic, P.A. .......................................................................322<br />

The Harding Foundation ..............................................................323<br />

The Hester-Jones Family ..............................................................324<br />

Texas Citrus Fiesta .....................................................................325<br />

✧<br />

Top: When Raymondville’s original high<br />

school, completed in 1924, was replaced, the<br />

community succeeded in turning it into the<br />

Raymondville <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum and<br />

Community Center, which preserves the<br />

area’s heritage.<br />

Bottom: The Bailey H. Dunlap Memorial<br />

Library was named in honor of the La<br />

Feria’s first banker and mayor.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

291


CATHOLIC<br />

DIOCESE OF<br />

BROWNSVILLE<br />

✧<br />

Below: The Oblates of Mary Immaculate<br />

were one of the first religious orders to serve<br />

the people of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. They<br />

first arrived in 1849, and traveling by<br />

horseback to remote ranches earned them<br />

the name of the “Cavalry of Christ.”<br />

Bottom: The former St. Peter’s Novitiate<br />

near Mission will now be used as a<br />

junior college seminary, St. Joseph and<br />

St. Peter Seminary.<br />

The Catholic Church has been an integral<br />

part of the history of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> for almost six centuries, beginning with<br />

the landing of Spanish explorer Alvarez de<br />

Piñeda at the mouth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in 1519.<br />

Missionary efforts followed settlement along<br />

the south banks of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, with early<br />

towns there including La Villa de Santa Ana de<br />

Camargo, Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe de<br />

Reynosa, the Villa de San Ignacio de Loyola de<br />

Revilla, and Lugar de Mier. Many of the oldest<br />

towns in the present Brownsville Diocese trace<br />

their origins to the people living along the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong>’s south banks. The Villa de San<br />

Augustin de Laredo, the oldest city in what<br />

came to be the Vicariate Apostolic of<br />

Brownsville, was established in 1755. Laredo is<br />

the second oldest municipality in present day<br />

Texas, and was the site of the first parish church<br />

in South Texas, a stone building constructed in<br />

1789 and called San Augustin de Laredo.<br />

The vast area constituting present-day Texas<br />

was originally under the ecclesiastical<br />

jurisdiction of the bishop of Guadalajara, with<br />

the Franciscans from Queretaro and Zacatecas<br />

responsible for the pastoral care of the Catholic<br />

community. In 1777 Spanish Texas came under<br />

the bishop of Linares, later known as the bishop<br />

of Monterrey. The Prefecture Apostolic of Texas<br />

was created in 1839, at which time the Catholic<br />

Church in the United States became responsible<br />

for Catholics living in Texas.<br />

After Texas’ annexation by the United States<br />

in 1845, a large influx of Protestant settlers<br />

diluted the Catholic atmosphere once<br />

established by early Franciscan missionaries.<br />

Twelve Vincentian missionaries labored among<br />

the Catholics in Texas from 1838-1848. During<br />

this period Catholic immigrants of Irish,<br />

German, Czech, and Polish descent increased<br />

their number. This led to founding of the<br />

Diocese of Galveston in 1847. Jean Marie<br />

Odin, C.M., the bishop of Galveston, and<br />

about nine priests were responsible for serving<br />

some twenty thousand Catholics scattered<br />

across the immense territory covering the<br />

entire State of Texas.<br />

On September 18, 1874, Pope Pius IX<br />

established the Vicariate Apostolic of<br />

Brownsville, with the Immaculate Conception<br />

Church chosen as the Cathedral. This new<br />

ecclesiastical area had its own bishop, who was<br />

called a vicar apostolic. The Vicariate,<br />

essentially a missionary territory, encompassed<br />

what is now the Diocese of Brownsville, the<br />

Diocese of Corpus Christi, and the Diocese of<br />

Laredo. This area included by far the largest<br />

population adhering to the Roman Catholic<br />

Faith, but was small in resources when<br />

compared to Galveston and San Antonio.<br />

By the third quarter of the nineteenth century,<br />

Roman Catholics in the Vicariate of Brownsville<br />

numbered about forty-two thousand, many of<br />

whom lived in the counties of Cameron, Willacy,<br />

Hidalgo and Starr, which today constitute the<br />

Diocese of Brownsville.<br />

Livestock raising was the major industry,<br />

and isolated settlements of ranchers and their<br />

families, friends and servants were served by<br />

the Oblates of Mary Immaculate who arrived in<br />

December 1849 at the invitation of the bishop<br />

of Galveston. They were temporarily<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

292


withdrawn in 1851, but returned in 1852. One<br />

of the first Oblates who arrived in the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

Father Alexander Sourlerin, spearheaded the<br />

“pony” ranch ministry. Each week he faithfully<br />

mounted his pony and set out to remote<br />

ranches with his Mass kit daring the dangers<br />

and privations of a thirty-six-hundred-squaremile<br />

frontier territory. The Oblates’ traveling by<br />

horseback earned them the name of the<br />

“Calvary of Christ.”<br />

Father Dominic Manucy, a priest from the<br />

Diocese of Mobile, was the first bishop selected<br />

to serve the Brownsville Vicariate. Installed in<br />

the Immaculate Conception Cathedral in<br />

Brownsville on February 14, 1874, he labored<br />

tirelessly over the next nine years, until his<br />

transfer to the Diocese of Mobile in 1884. He<br />

later asked to be allowed to return to the<br />

Brownsville Vicariate; however, he died before<br />

he was able to return.<br />

Father Claude C. Jaillet, vicar general of the<br />

Vicariate, served as administrator, until Father<br />

Pedro Verdaguer was appointed in 1890 as<br />

bishop of the Vicariate Apostolic of Brownsville.<br />

From ox carts and burro trains,<br />

transportation advanced around the middle of<br />

the nineteenth century to steamboats plying<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> and overland freight transport<br />

via mule-drawn wagons. The real advance<br />

came a bit later, however, with completion of<br />

a rail line linking the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

to the rest of North America. By the 1920s<br />

almost every major community in the present<br />

Diocese of Brownsville had a railroad station.<br />

A combination of the improved transportation<br />

situation and development of irrigation that<br />

fostered agricultural development along the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> brought an influx of settlers to the area.<br />

Many improvements were made in the<br />

Vicariate during this period, including the<br />

construction of St. Peter’s Church in Laredo in<br />

1896, to serve English-speaking Catholics of<br />

that area, and construction of Our Lady of<br />

Guadalupe Church in 1899, to meet the needs<br />

of the growing Mexican-American population.<br />

Between 1908 and 1910 Catholic Churches<br />

were built in Harlingen and Raymondville,<br />

and as new towns were established, additional<br />

mission centers and chapels were added.<br />

Early efforts to enlist women’s religious<br />

communities in France to work in the area<br />

were unsuccessful until four sisters of the<br />

Incarnate Word and Blessed Sacrament agreed<br />

to come to Texas in 1852. Remaining in<br />

Galveston for several months to learn English<br />

and Spanish, they then sailed to Brownsville,<br />

where they lived in a small, one-story<br />

warehouse until a new convent and boarding<br />

school for girls was constructed. Named the<br />

Incarnate Word Academy, it was to become<br />

the oldest school for girls in Texas. The Sisters<br />

faced a succession of crisis ranging from<br />

epidemics, tropical storms and Civil War<br />

clashes to the death of one Sister in an Indian<br />

attack. Through it all, they not only<br />

✧<br />

Above: Immaculate Conception Church in<br />

Brownsville was first designated a Cathedral<br />

in 1874 when Pope Pius IX established the<br />

Vicariate Apostolic of Brownsville.<br />

Below: The Basilica of Our Lady of San<br />

Juan Del Valle–National Shrine attracts<br />

millions of pilgrims each year from<br />

throughout the country and the world who<br />

come to give thanks to our Lady and to her<br />

Son, our Lord Jesus Christ. It is one of only<br />

four basilicas in Texas.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

293


✧<br />

Officially dedicated in 1954, this San Juan<br />

Shrine was destroyed in a plane crash fire<br />

in 1970. A beautiful new Shrine was<br />

dedicated in 1980.<br />

persevered but actually extended their service<br />

throughout the Dioceses of Galveston and San<br />

Antonio. In 1900 they opened a school which<br />

operated for more than twenty years in <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> City.<br />

Other women’s religious communities,<br />

including the Order of the Sisters of Mercy,<br />

the Sisters of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, the<br />

Sisters of the Holy Ghost and Mary<br />

Immaculate, the Sisters of Divine Providence,<br />

the Sisters of St. Joseph, the Sisters of St.<br />

Joseph of Bourg, and the Sisters of St. Joseph<br />

of Carondolet, also have long histories of<br />

service to people in the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. They have operated Catholic schools<br />

and taught in several public schools over a<br />

long period, as well as teaching catechism. A<br />

number of other orders have also served in<br />

Confraternity of Christian Doctrine programs<br />

and the home visiting apostolate in the<br />

present Diocese of Brownsville.<br />

By 1911 the Brownsville Vicariate had 16<br />

diocesan and 16 religious order priests, 15<br />

churches with resident pastors, and 60<br />

chapels and mission centers attended by the<br />

overworked missionaries. The following year<br />

it was converted into the Diocese of Corpus<br />

Christi, with St. Patrick’s Church in Corpus<br />

Christi to be the Bishop’s Cathedral. This<br />

diocese had a population of 158,000, among<br />

them were 83,000 Catholics. Catholic<br />

organizations, retreats, missions and<br />

devotions were established, and in his first<br />

Confirmation tour, the bishop confirmed<br />

almost 1,000 people in Brownsville and over<br />

500 more in San Benito. Emphasis on<br />

education led to the opening of quality<br />

parochial schools in Harlingen, Mercedes,<br />

San Benito, and elsewhere, as well as the<br />

establishment of a number of additional<br />

churches. By 1919 the Catholic Church’s<br />

presence in the Diocese had grown to 46<br />

priests, 31 churches with resident priests,<br />

and 83 missions and chapels. These served<br />

99,580 Catholics.<br />

With an influx of Catholic immigrants of<br />

widely varied heritage German, Polish, and<br />

Irish, and Mexican—during the next three<br />

decades, parishes, church improvements and<br />

schools were added during the next four<br />

decades. On July 10, 1965, Pope Paul VI<br />

established the Diocese of Brownsville, with<br />

Bishop Adolph Marx installed on September<br />

2, 1965, at the Cathedral of Brownsville. The<br />

diocese included the four counties of<br />

Cameron, Willacy, Hidalgo and Starr. This<br />

4,226-square-mile area contained 40<br />

parishes, 46 missions, and 22 stations, served<br />

by 14 diocesan priests and 67 Religious<br />

Order priests.<br />

Bishop Marx died not long after his<br />

installation; he was succeeded by Bishop<br />

Humberto S. Medeiros.<br />

During the turbulent Sixties, a period of<br />

unrest throughout the country, the<br />

Brownsville Diocese faced hard issues,<br />

including violence between farm workers and<br />

farm owners in Starr County. Brownsville<br />

Bishop Humberto S. Medeiros—later named<br />

archbishop of Boston—offered his services as<br />

mediator in the dispute, and urged his own<br />

parishioners and the bishops of northern<br />

areas to provide for both the secular and<br />

religious needs of the migrant workers.<br />

Bishop John J. Fitzpatrick, a native of<br />

Canada, was appointed the third bishop of<br />

Brownsville on April 27, 1971. He served the<br />

Diocese for twenty years until his retirement<br />

on November 30, 1991.<br />

During his tenure, Bishop Fitzpatrick<br />

upheld the dignity and rights of the poor and<br />

oppressed, whether they were farm workers,<br />

migrant laborers, Central American refugees<br />

or farmers caught in financial difficulties.<br />

Because of the unbelievably lopsided ratio of<br />

parishioners per priest he promoted the lay<br />

ministry programs. He also purchased and<br />

maintained a public broadcasting station in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> for the service of the community.<br />

Upon Bishop Fitzpatrick’s retirement,<br />

Bishop Enrique San Pedro, S.J. was installed<br />

as the fourth bishop of Brownsville. He placed<br />

the need to improve the quality of education<br />

as his first priority in the Diocese. Sadly his<br />

time was cut short with his unexpected death<br />

on July 17, 1994.<br />

Continued growth of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> during the last half of the<br />

twentieth century—along with the increased<br />

number of Catholics in the Brownsville<br />

Diocese—has encouraged cooperative efforts<br />

and the use of modern technology in<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

294


handling diocesan business matters, to allow<br />

priests to concentrate their efforts on the<br />

most important of their duties to the faithful.<br />

The increasing burden of work on the<br />

religious community has also resulted in<br />

increased reliance on the laity in promoting<br />

works of the Church, as well as an intensive<br />

program promoting vocations to the<br />

priesthood. All of these measures are<br />

designed to serve the Diocese’s more than<br />

850,000 Catholics, whose growing numbers<br />

have led to the establishment of five new<br />

parishes. Four of these were established<br />

under the leadership of Bishop Raymundo J.<br />

Peña, who was installed on August 6, 1995 as<br />

the fifth bishop of Brownsville.<br />

The deeply religious nature of Catholics in<br />

the Brownsville Diocese is expressed in many<br />

ways, including the construction of the<br />

National Shrine of Our Lady of San Juan. This<br />

Shrine now delivers its message of faith to<br />

more than eighty thousand Catholics every<br />

month. Beginning as a small wooden chapel<br />

in San Juan, this site drew so many pilgrims<br />

that it was decided to build a Shrine, which<br />

was officially dedicated in 1954. This was<br />

destroyed in a plane crash fire in 1970, but<br />

the site continued to function, and a beautiful<br />

new shrine was dedicated in 1980. In 1998<br />

Pope John Paul II designated the Shrine as a<br />

minor basilica.<br />

The Diocese has registered a number of<br />

highlights in recent years. This includes the<br />

opening of the first retirement home for<br />

priests in the Diocese, the establishment of an<br />

Altar Servers’ Association, and the<br />

establishment of an Office for Immigration.<br />

On June 10, 2000, Bishop Peña convoked the<br />

first Diocesan Synod in the history of the<br />

Diocese to look at the pastoral programs<br />

currently in place and determine how these<br />

programs might better serve the people in the<br />

next millennium.<br />

Bishop Peña maintains a firm commitment<br />

to continue placing the public broadcasting<br />

station (KMBH-TV 60) at the service of the<br />

community, particularly for education<br />

purposes both in the academic and religious<br />

spheres in order to enrich the quality of<br />

life in the <strong>Valley</strong> as well as the quality of<br />

faith. During his tenure, the station has<br />

recognized a steady increase in religious and<br />

Spanish programming.<br />

The rigorous promotion of vocations has<br />

resulted in an increase in the number of<br />

seminarians to 32 compared to 8 when Bishop<br />

Peña first arrived. Also, ten new priests have<br />

been ordained in the Diocese. With a continued<br />

focus on vocations, the Diocese and the<br />

Pontifical College Josephinum from Columbus,<br />

Ohio entered into a collaborative effort in 2001<br />

to open the Saint Joseph and Saint Peter<br />

Seminary. The junior college seminary in La<br />

Lomita south of Mission is located on the<br />

grounds of St. Peter’s Novitiate, the former<br />

novitiate of the Oblates of Mary Immaculate.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Diocese opened its first<br />

seminary in the <strong>Valley</strong> in 2001 to<br />

accommodate young men entering the<br />

priesthood. Here three young men are being<br />

ordained into the priesthood during a Mass<br />

at the Basilica of Our Lady of San Juan Del<br />

Valle–National Shrine.<br />

Below: Bishop Raymundo J. Peña meets with<br />

Pope John Paul II during his adlimina visit<br />

to the Vatican.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

295


VALLEY<br />

BAPTIST<br />

MEDICAL<br />

CENTER<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist is the <strong>Valley</strong>’s leader in hightech<br />

advancement, excellence in healthcare,<br />

and community service with a modern medical<br />

system, which traces its beginnings to 1925.<br />

Following seventy-six years of service to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center and<br />

Health System in Harlingen ushered in the<br />

twenty-first century with a variety of new<br />

advancements and services for the community.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist, now one of the largest<br />

medical systems in South Texas with<br />

approximately six hundred beds, had humble<br />

beginnings. The original ten-bed hospital in<br />

Harlingen was actually located on F Street<br />

between Harrison and Tyler in a frame house<br />

owned by Mrs. Ida Gilbert. In 1923 a group<br />

of citizens including Dr. N. A. Davidson,<br />

Dr. G. W. Letzerick, S. G. Stringer, and Judge<br />

Fred Bennett saw the need for a modern<br />

medical facility.<br />

A new thirty-six-bed hospital was built on<br />

F Street, a few blocks away from the original<br />

ten-bed facility. <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Hospital,<br />

owned by the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Baptist Association, opened as a not-for-profit<br />

community hospital on January 22, 1925.<br />

The hospital grew, with the bed count<br />

more than doubling to eighty-two by 1943.<br />

The Baptist General Convention of Texas<br />

acquired the hospital in 1945. In 1956 <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Baptist moved to its present location on Pease<br />

Street off Ed Carey Drive in Harlingen.<br />

Ben M. McKibbens, FACHE, became the<br />

president and CEO of <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical<br />

Center in 1977. Along with VBMC’s Board of<br />

Directors, Advisory Board, Medical and Dental<br />

Staff, Administration, employees and volunteers,<br />

McKibbens has guided VBMC for nearly<br />

a quarter of a century. During this time of<br />

remarkable growth, decisions have been based<br />

upon the guiding principles of the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Baptist Mission Statement, which serves as a<br />

framework for all of <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist’s endeavors.<br />

Today, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist is one of the few<br />

remaining not-for-profit hospitals in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist and its physicians have<br />

brought many types of heart procedures to<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>. The first critical care unit dedicated<br />

to heart disease was opened in 1967. It was<br />

the site for the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first open heart surgery<br />

and cardiac catheterization in 1977. Through<br />

the years <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center<br />

continued to bring advancements in diagnosis<br />

and treatment to the region.<br />

To enhance heart care in the new<br />

millennium, the Health System created the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Heart and Vascular Institute to<br />

usher in a new approach to heart care in the<br />

region. In one seamless package of services,<br />

the Heart and Vascular Institute brings<br />

✧<br />

The original thirty-six-bed <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Hospital was built in 1925 on F Street, a<br />

few blocks away from Harlingen’s first tenbed<br />

hospital.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

296


together a concerted effort to prevent heart<br />

and vascular disease through community<br />

outreach and education; a program for early<br />

detection and intervention of heart disease;<br />

and expanded, state-of-the-art diagnostic and<br />

treatment options.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist has also been the home of<br />

many <strong>Valley</strong> milestones in other types of<br />

medical treatments, including orthopedic<br />

surgery and trauma care, with VBMC being<br />

the first Level III Trauma Center designated in<br />

South Texas. Trauma patients are treated in a<br />

large state-of-the-art Emergency Department.<br />

A rooftop heliport above the department<br />

speeds up the transport of trauma patients<br />

into the Emergency Room.<br />

In 1998 VBMC became the first hospital in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> to be designated a Joint<br />

Replacement Center. Even before the designation,<br />

VBMC had a significant joint replacement<br />

program already in place, providing hip,<br />

knee, and other joint replacements for<br />

patients with joint problems. VBMC is considered<br />

one of the best orthopedic hospitals in<br />

the state and is one of the leading hospitals in<br />

the number of joint replacement surgeries<br />

performed annually.<br />

With the opening of the new East Tower in<br />

1998, VBMC expanded its women and<br />

children services while putting an emphasis<br />

on convenience, efficiency and accessibility.<br />

The East Tower includes a 14-room labor,<br />

delivery and recovery area; a 32-bed “Mother-<br />

Baby” obstetrical unit which features familycentered<br />

maternity care; a 32-bed gynecology<br />

unit; and a 38-bed Newborn Intensive Care<br />

Unit. The entire fourth floor is being<br />

developed into a 62-bed Children’s Center<br />

with 48 spacious private rooms and a 14-bed<br />

intensive care unit. A thirty-bed Day Surgery<br />

Center and convenient outpatient services are<br />

also located in the East Tower.<br />

Throughout the years, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist’s<br />

growth has occurred only after extensive<br />

studies by the Board of Trustees, Medical and<br />

Dental staff, Administration and employees in<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center, the largest<br />

hospital in the area with approximately six<br />

hundred beds, has provided seventy-six<br />

years of service in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

297


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

298


consultation with leading experts. Strategic<br />

planning helps assure that there is good<br />

stewardship of the resources available to meet<br />

community needs.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist’s expansion of services culminated<br />

with the creation of the <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Health System and the medical center being<br />

named the primary teaching hospital for a<br />

new Regional Academic Health Center<br />

(RAHC) in Harlingen. The RAHC is a medical<br />

education program operated by the University<br />

of Texas Health Science Center at San<br />

Antonio. It offers training for third and fourth<br />

year medical students as well as residents in a<br />

variety of medical specialties. The <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Baptist Family Practice Residency Program<br />

opened in 1996 to address the chronic shortage<br />

of primary care physicians in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Under the program, medical school graduates<br />

serve a three-year residency at VBMC.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Health System continues to<br />

show its commitment to all segments of the<br />

community by holding a large number of free<br />

health screenings and making health<br />

information available at no charge to area<br />

residents. Each year, thousands of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

residents receive free screenings in a program to<br />

identify potential health problems and prevent<br />

serious illness. The wellness program is taken<br />

out into the community in a variety of settings<br />

including the annual <strong>Rio</strong>Fest arts celebration in<br />

Harlingen, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Livestock<br />

Show in Mercedes and more. This activity is an<br />

important part of the <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist mission to<br />

promote a healthier community.<br />

Looking to the future, <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist’s Board of<br />

Trustees, administration, physicians, employees,<br />

and community supporters are committed to<br />

continuing a “Tradition of Excellence” while<br />

keeping the <strong>Valley</strong> on the cutting edge of<br />

healthcare technology and services.<br />

✧<br />

Opposite: The East Tower at <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist<br />

Medical Center was completed in 1998,<br />

providing faster, more convenient access to<br />

emergency care, outpatient services, and<br />

women and children health services.<br />

Above: A rooftop heliport speeds up the<br />

transfer of critically injured patients into the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s first Level III trauma<br />

center.<br />

Below: Dr. Ruben Lopez, Cardiovascular<br />

Surgeon, discusses laser energy used during<br />

Transmyocardial Revascularization (TMR)<br />

with patient Celia Crews of Brownsville.<br />

Mrs. Crews became the first <strong>Valley</strong> patient<br />

to receive the new heart treatment on<br />

November 11, 1999, at <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Heart<br />

and Vascular Institute.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

299


GOLDEN PALMS<br />

RETIREMENT &<br />

HEALTH CENTER<br />

✧<br />

Right: Golden Palms Retirement Center, an<br />

active retirement community in Harlingen<br />

since 1986.<br />

Below: Golden Palms’ residents enjoy an<br />

exciting program of activities, which<br />

emphasize fun, fitness and health.<br />

Bottom: An atmosphere of friendship and<br />

comfort help make Golden Palms a top<br />

choice for retirement living.<br />

Golden Palms Retirement &Health Center<br />

offers apartments for active retirement, assisted<br />

living, and licensed nursing care, adjacent to<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center in Harlingen, and<br />

is a continuing care retirement community<br />

serving retirees since 1986. Beautiful<br />

apartments, warm neighbors and professional<br />

staff enhance the Golden Palms community of<br />

friendship and comfort.<br />

Golden Palms offers a full spectrum of<br />

services, from gracious two-bedroom<br />

apartments, to an assisted living area, and a<br />

skilled nursing unit. The Palm Suites Assisted<br />

Living apartments are available for residents<br />

who need personal assistance. The Golden<br />

Palms Health Center is a sixty-bed skilled<br />

nursing unit located inside the facility, meaning<br />

residents will never have to leave the<br />

comforting presence of familiar faces should the<br />

need for nursing services arise.<br />

Golden Palms offers an exciting program of<br />

activities, which emphasize fun, fitness and<br />

health. Residents participate in as many or as few<br />

activities as their schedule will allow. Activities<br />

include low-impact exercise in Golden Palms’<br />

health club, tai chi, and aquatic aerobics. There<br />

are also group trips in a motor coach, painting<br />

classes, educational seminars, galas, birthday<br />

luncheons, and a host of other activities.<br />

Golden Palms offers its residents nine<br />

different floor designs, featuring one- and twobedroom<br />

apartments. Amenities include fully<br />

equipped kitchens and private balconies where<br />

residents can enjoy the year-round sunshine and<br />

warmth of sub-tropical South Texas. Golden<br />

Palms also provides beautifully landscaped<br />

grounds, scheduled housekeeping and laundry<br />

service, and a maintenance staff that alleviates<br />

worries about appliance repairs. Scheduled<br />

transportation is provided for residents, as well<br />

as valet service for residents who drive. In<br />

Golden Palms’ luxurious dining room, the wait<br />

staff quickly learn each resident’s name and their<br />

individual preferences. When combined with<br />

the sunny weather of South Texas, Golden<br />

Palms offers a top choice in retirement living.<br />

For more information, contact Golden Palms<br />

at (956) 389-4653 or visit its website at<br />

www.goldenpalmsrgv.com.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

300


During World War II, a young boy watched<br />

his father Dr. Marion R. Lawler, Sr., operate on a<br />

patient at his Mercedes, Texas clinic. In the<br />

midst of the operation, sutures ran low, and the<br />

boy was given a nickel and sent to Handshaw’s<br />

dime store. He returned with a spool of J. P.<br />

Coats white thread, which was then sterilized<br />

and used to sew up the incision. Marion Lawler,<br />

Jr., followed in his father’s footsteps and became<br />

a <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> surgeon.<br />

Following graduation from Southwestern<br />

University, young Lawler attended Baylor<br />

College of Medicine in Houston. Baylor was<br />

a hub of cardiovascular surgery innovations,<br />

and Lawler observed outstanding surgeons<br />

performing groundbreaking operations. After<br />

Lawler completed surgical training at Vanderbilt<br />

University, he served in the U.S. Navy for<br />

two years, including one year as a thoracic<br />

surgeon aboard the hospital ship USS Sanctuary<br />

in Vietnam.<br />

When Lawler returned to the <strong>Valley</strong> in<br />

1971 he established a surgical practice in<br />

Harlingen, specializing in vascular and<br />

thoracic surgery and introducing many new<br />

procedures to the area. In 1977 Lawler<br />

performed the first open-heart operation in<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. That same year, he<br />

helped found <strong>Valley</strong> Regional Heart Center at<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center, where over six<br />

thousand open-heart surgical procedures have<br />

been performed.<br />

While serving as medical consultant to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Development Council, Dr. Lawler<br />

became committed to establishing a Harlingen<br />

Community Emergency Medical Service. To get<br />

support for the EMS, the first of its kind in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, he spoke to every civic organization in<br />

town. In 1979 he was appointed to the founding<br />

board of Harlingen EMS and served until 1984.<br />

In 1978 Dr Lawler and Dr. Tom Clark formed<br />

Cardiovascular Associates of Harlingen.<br />

“Cardiovascular surgery is very gratifying<br />

field,” said Dr. Lawler. “The physician has direct<br />

responsibility for improving a patient’s quality of<br />

life and actually sees those changes take place<br />

before his eyes.”<br />

Active in diverse civic organizations,<br />

particularly the American Heart Association, Dr.<br />

Lawler’s professional affiliations include American<br />

College of Surgeons (fellow), American College of<br />

Cardiology (fellow), the Denton A. Cooley<br />

Cardiovascular Surgical Society, and the Debakey<br />

International Cardiovascular Society, as well as the<br />

Texas Medical Association. He is past president of<br />

numerous medical organizations and served as a<br />

governor of the American College of Surgeons for<br />

six years. Lawler is a clinical professor of<br />

cardiothoracic surgery at the University of Texas<br />

Health Science Center San Antonio.<br />

Dr. Lawler and Frances “Nan” Kennedy of<br />

Nacogdoches were married in 1960. Their<br />

children, Marion Russell III and Karen, live in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

✧<br />

MARION R.<br />

LAWLER, JR.,<br />

M. D.<br />

Above: Dr. Marion Lawler, Sr.<br />

Below: Dr. Marion Lawler, Jr.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

301


✧<br />

BROWNSVILLE<br />

Above: The Divine Providence Hospital,<br />

built in 1917 on the corner of Sixth and<br />

Madison Streets in Brownsville. The Sisters<br />

of Mercy ran the hospital until the new<br />

hospital, now BMC, opened in 1923.<br />

COURTESY OF THE MOTHER OF PERPETUAL HELP<br />

NURSING HOME.<br />

Below: The original operating room log from<br />

Mercy Hospital. This log was kept from<br />

February 1923 until May 1930. Many<br />

individuals from this area’s founding<br />

families are found in this book.<br />

MEDICAL<br />

CENTER<br />

COURTESY OF THE BROWNSVILLE HISTORICAL MUSEUM.<br />

“Patients are our priority now, just as they<br />

were in 1923 when the hospital first opened,”<br />

said Ruben Edelstein, Chairman of the<br />

Governing Board of Brownsville Medical Center.<br />

Now caring for more than sixty thousand<br />

patients each year, Brownsville Medical Center is<br />

dedicated to improving the health of the patients<br />

entrusted to its care while safeguarding the<br />

community’s health through wellness programs.<br />

The hospital’s roots go back one hundred<br />

years to Miss Nora Kelly who founded St.<br />

Joseph’s Home for the Aged. Then in 1913, she<br />

opened a Charity Home on Madison Street,<br />

which cared for homeless children and indigent<br />

elderly, with only a limited amount of medicine<br />

practiced. Two years later, when more than two<br />

hundred Mexicans who were wounded in the<br />

on-going Revolution filled improvised hospitals<br />

in Brownsville, Miss Kelly received a donation of<br />

$14,000 that allowed her to purchase two<br />

blocks out of the Stillman Estate for a hospital.<br />

On June 1, 1917, Divine Providence Hospital<br />

opened under the management of the Sisters of<br />

Mercy, led by Mother Superior Mary Stanislaus.<br />

Brownsville soon outgrew that hospital, but<br />

through a donation of the landsite by the estate<br />

of James Stillman, son of Brownsville’s founder,<br />

and other donations by city residents and the<br />

Sisters of Mercy, the new Mercy Hospital was<br />

dedicated in July 1923 with the nuns continuing<br />

to serve as nurses and administrators.<br />

Mercy Hospital kept growing, adding more<br />

beds, a maternity wing, and a convent for the<br />

nuns. World War II demonstrated the need<br />

for a yet larger facility. In 1952 a new wing<br />

and major renovations brought the hospital<br />

an emergency room, pediatric and psychiatric<br />

units, a new laboratory and an operating<br />

room along with air conditioning. In 1963 the<br />

hospital added fifty-two more beds, a labor and<br />

delivery area, surgical suites, a radiology<br />

department, and other key services.<br />

The annual patient census reflects the<br />

hospital’s growth: 390 patients in 1923; 1,083<br />

patients in 1943; 4,361 in 1953; and 20,000-<br />

plus in 1983.<br />

In 1983 part of the 1923 building was<br />

demolished and replaced with the current threestory<br />

patient tower. In 1995 Brownsville Medical<br />

Center was purchased by Tenet Healthcare<br />

Corporation, a nationwide company dedicated<br />

to providing patients with quality innovative<br />

care at 114 acute care hospitals. At Brownsville<br />

Medical Center, a local governing board works<br />

in partnership with physicians, hospital<br />

management and the communities it serves to<br />

secure the best hospital care possible.<br />

Brownsville Medical Center continues to make<br />

significant investments in technology so <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> residents do not have to leave the<br />

area for medical treatment. Recent innovations<br />

at the 243-bed hospital include the Women’s<br />

Center, which features ten labor and delivery<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

302


suites and thirty-four post-partum rooms. In the<br />

36-bed Neonatal Intensive Care Unit, as well as<br />

in the nursery, supportive staff and a new<br />

generation of technology focus on the<br />

importance of early contact between parents and<br />

baby. New parents can use the hospital’s digital<br />

camera and computer to post Internet photos of<br />

their newborn for families and friends.<br />

Brownsville Medical Center’s commitment to<br />

providing the best equipment and training is<br />

evident throughout the hospital. The<br />

Emergency Department is a designated Level<br />

Three Trauma Center, the first in Brownsville<br />

and only the fifth in Texas. The Trauma Center<br />

plays a leadership role in community disaster<br />

preparedness with trauma physicians always on<br />

call. In Spring 2001 the hospital opened the<br />

Express Care Unit next to the Emergency<br />

Department. The unit is designed to quickly<br />

treat a wide range of minor emergencies for<br />

adults and children.<br />

At BMC’s Cardiac Center of Excellence, the<br />

hospital’s team of cardiologists, cardiovascular<br />

surgeons, nurses and staff provide the high level<br />

of care and service that patients have come to<br />

expect. A cardiac catheterization lab and<br />

electrophysiology lab provide physicians with<br />

increased diagnostic capabilities. The Imaging<br />

Department offers advanced CT (computerized<br />

tomography) scan capabilities, magnetic<br />

resonance imaging, and more.<br />

In its constant review of services, searching<br />

for ways to improve, Brownsville Medical Center<br />

remains responsive to community needs.<br />

Recognizing the high incidence of diabetes in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>, BMC’s Wound Healing Center for the<br />

treatment of hard-to-heal diabetic ulcers works<br />

closely with its Center for Diabetes<br />

Management, which offers classes on diet and<br />

exercise along with diabetes support groups.<br />

Through an extensive outreach program,<br />

Brownsville Medical Center provides free<br />

educational lectures and health fairs,<br />

acknowledging the community’s cultural<br />

diversity by presenting programs both in<br />

English and Spanish. Contributing to the<br />

overall health of the city, the hospital sponsors<br />

free citywide diabetes screenings each year,<br />

offers free prostate cancer screenings, and<br />

seasonally, administers over three thousand<br />

flu shots each year. Partnering with<br />

Hadassah’s “Check it Out” program, BMC has<br />

trained over ten thousand high school girls in<br />

breast self-examination in the past eight years.<br />

Brownsville Medical Center’s program for<br />

seniors, the Premiere Plus Wellness Center, has<br />

evolved since 1991 into a valuable package that<br />

helps to enhance the quality of life for older<br />

residents. Exercise and muscle strengthening<br />

classes are combined with social activities and<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: BMC’s 1952 expansion,<br />

which added 73 patient beds and<br />

much needed services.<br />

COURTESY OF STILLMAN HOUSE.<br />

Above: Mercy Hospital, built by the Sisters<br />

of Mercy. Part of the original building is still<br />

standing and is used for offices.<br />

COURTESY OF THE HISTORIC BROWNSVILLE MUSEUM.<br />

Below: Brownsville Medical Centers during<br />

the 1980s, including the 1984 expansion<br />

which added a three-story tower with 100<br />

medical/surgical beds, 12 ICU beds, a new<br />

physical therapy unit, and more.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

303


✧<br />

Above: The Edelstein Professional Building,<br />

opened in 1999, is named after Ruben<br />

Edelstein, chairperson of the BMC Board of<br />

Governors, and a recognized civic leader.<br />

Below: BMC today. This photo shows the<br />

Professional Tower at Brownsville Medical<br />

Center, added in 1995.<br />

health information presentations, benefiting the<br />

minds and bodies of participants.<br />

More than eight hundred Brownsville<br />

Medical Center employees are dedicated to<br />

making every patients’ stay at the hospital the<br />

best that it can possibly be. From the dietitians<br />

and dialysis nurses to rehabilitation therapists<br />

and radiological technicians, BMC’s highly<br />

skilled staff form a team working for each<br />

patient’s health. Hospital privileges are accorded<br />

to more than two hundred physicians,<br />

encompassing a wide range of medical<br />

specialties from neonatology to geriatrics. The<br />

Hospital Auxiliary, active since 1959, runs two<br />

gift shops and provides welcome support and<br />

assistance to patients and staff.<br />

A full service JCAHO accredited facility,<br />

Brownsville Medical Center has initiated a<br />

major customer service program called Target<br />

100, emphasizing that there is nothing<br />

more important than making sure that every<br />

patient receives the services each deserves.<br />

For the convenience of both patients and<br />

physicians, the Edelstein Professional<br />

Building with ten physicians’ offices and a<br />

pharmacy has been located near the<br />

Emergency Room and Women’s Center.<br />

Brownsville Medical Center remains closely<br />

involved with community organizations such as<br />

the Infant Nutrition Program, the Make-a-Wish<br />

Foundation, Tip of Texas Family Outreach,<br />

Monica’s House and programs to prevent child<br />

abuse, and “Shots Across Texas” immunizations<br />

for children. Of course, local chapters of the<br />

American Heart Association, American Cancer<br />

Society, American Diabetic Association, and<br />

many other agencies know they can rely on<br />

Brownsville Medical Center for support. Serving<br />

the community online at BMC’s website,<br />

www.brownsvillemedical.com, provides a<br />

comprehensive medical reference library, a<br />

listing of physicians, and in-depth information<br />

on hospital services.<br />

Brownsville Medical Center, still known as La<br />

Merced by many citizens, continues to anticipate<br />

the community’s needs, understanding and<br />

caring for the health of the community as well as<br />

the individuals who live there.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

304


ST. PAUL<br />

LUTHERAN<br />

CHURCH<br />

The ministry of St. Paul Lutheran Church,<br />

McAllen, is dedicated to bringing all people to<br />

faithful discipleship of Christ through the<br />

witness of the Gospel. Charter members<br />

August Kolb, E. H. Kleinschmidt, Ed Koch, E.<br />

F. Krumdiek, and John Bruns held the first<br />

organizational meeting of the church in Pharr<br />

on December 10, 1916, and resolved to begin<br />

worship in a borrowed church. Reverend M. J.<br />

Scaer became the first resident pastor in 1918.<br />

The next year St. Paul Lutheran Church<br />

acquired its first building, a Christian Church<br />

known for being constructed by volunteer<br />

labor in one day. The earliest services were in<br />

German, the native tongue of many members,<br />

but within ten years services were being<br />

conducted in English. Until World War II,<br />

men and boys sat on one side and women and<br />

girls on the other.<br />

As the church grew, a Sunday School was<br />

added and the Ladies Aid was formed in<br />

1920. Today the ladies’ group has six circles<br />

of charitable or ministerial activity. In 1926 a<br />

Walther League was established for Lutheran<br />

youth. The congregation sponsored mission<br />

churches in McCook and Alamo and later<br />

aided El Buen Pastor.<br />

In 1943 St. Paul Lutheran Church opened<br />

a Lutheran day school and three years later<br />

moved the school into the second floor of the<br />

new two-story church and school building.<br />

In 1956 a new school wing was built on a<br />

twenty-acre site on Pecan Boulevard.<br />

Teaching the Christian faith has been the<br />

basis of the school’s success and continued<br />

growth. Current enrollment is 350 in<br />

childcare, pre-school, and kindergarten<br />

through eighth grade.<br />

The current sanctuary, also built in 1956, is<br />

altar-centered, creating an emotional impact as<br />

light reflected from the stained glass windows<br />

touches the altar. The V-shaped tower soars in<br />

the altar’s background, enhancing worship and<br />

meditation, as does the nineteen-rank Hoffman<br />

pipe organ installed in 1971. A fellowship hall<br />

and school additions have reflected the<br />

increase in church outreach and growth.<br />

Excellent leadership and an unswerving<br />

membership have enabled St. Paul Lutheran<br />

Church to thrive and become a benefactor to<br />

the community and to global charities. The<br />

church today maintains its Christian traditions,<br />

yet added a contemporary worship service in<br />

1995. It remembers the pastors called to serve<br />

at St. Paul: the Reverends Scaer, Medler,<br />

Ploneit, Elser, Remmert, Diers, Buvinghausen,<br />

Albers, Davenport, Nelson, Brauer, and<br />

Krueger. Reverend Duane Kirchner has been<br />

pastor since 1993.<br />

✧<br />

Above: “Church built in a day” home of St.<br />

Paul Lutheran Church from 1919 to 1943.<br />

Below: The present sanctuary of St. Paul<br />

Lutheran Church.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

305


JOHN KNOX<br />

VILLAGE<br />

✧<br />

Above: John Knox Village is renowned as a<br />

life-affirming community where adults can<br />

retire to enjoy the best of their lives.<br />

Below: The region’s Spanish heritage is<br />

reflected in this colorful corner.<br />

Seniors have the time of their life as they<br />

age in the satisfying, invigorating yet secure<br />

environment of John Knox Village in Weslaco.<br />

The continuing care retirement facility<br />

enables adults to remain independent as long<br />

as possible with the assurance of supportive<br />

services, including assisted living and skilled<br />

nursing care, if needed.<br />

The Village atmosphere creates a zest for<br />

maintaining wellness and independent living<br />

among John Knox’s approximately 275<br />

residents. The sound of community is apparent<br />

in the friendly chatter over cards and the warm<br />

welcome given to newcomers. It is heard in<br />

laughter in the meeting rooms, impromptu<br />

sing-a-longs and the resonant chimes of the<br />

grandfather clock in the elegant yet friendly<br />

foyer. The community is visible in groups of<br />

seniors stretching in daily exercise programs, in<br />

the comfortable chairs in the well-lit library,<br />

and in the lush subtropical landscaping and<br />

gardens. Community caring shows in safety<br />

railings along the corridors, multiple elevators,<br />

and the rose gardens that residents tend.<br />

Established in 1965 as Wesley Manor<br />

Retirement Facility by the Methodist Church, the<br />

property was acquired by the nationwide John<br />

Knox Communities, Inc. in 1977 and then<br />

developed as a continuing care retirement center.<br />

Since 1981 John Knox Village has been<br />

locally owned and independently operated as<br />

a not-for-profit corporation by a local Board<br />

of Directors. Set on forty landscaped acres,<br />

John Knox Village is renowned as a lifeaffirming<br />

community where adults retire to<br />

enjoy the best of their lives.<br />

Independent living is a cherished advantage<br />

for John Knox Village residents who have<br />

their choice of hacienda-style one and two<br />

bedroom cottages, larger upscale patio homes,<br />

and 187 apartments in the Main Building<br />

where several floor plans are available.<br />

Cottage complexes with red-tiled roofs<br />

encircle tropical courtyards. Pets are welcome<br />

and so are visitors. The three wings of the Main<br />

Building reinforce John Knox Village’s concept of<br />

aging in place with comfortable apartments—<br />

studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments<br />

furnished by each resident. With John Knox’s<br />

continuum of care, the elderly do not have to be<br />

uprooted from their friends and kin if they<br />

require personal care. The Assisted Living area<br />

and the skilled nursing unit are integral parts of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

306


John Knox, enabling residents to continue their<br />

friendships. In fact, the many volunteers at the<br />

Med Center and Assisted Living units live in John<br />

Knox’s homes and apartments.<br />

Payment of a one-time endowment fee,<br />

along with a monthly service fee, entitles<br />

residents to lifetime occupancy at John Knox<br />

Village in either the independent living units,<br />

assisted care facility, or in the Med Center.<br />

Residents gain peace of mind knowing that<br />

the endowment fee entitles each of them to<br />

skilled long-term nursing care, if ever needed,<br />

at no extra cost. The Village’s assured financial<br />

stability combined with this safeguard of<br />

continuing medical care gives all residents a<br />

special freedom to enjoy their future.<br />

Services provided by the monthly fee<br />

cover: all utilities including basic cable, but<br />

not telephone; scheduled transportation to<br />

shopping and events; 24-hour security patrols<br />

and a gated entrance; 24-hour desk services;<br />

emergency nurse response; free blood<br />

pressure checks and nurse consultations; and<br />

bi-weekly maid service.<br />

Main Building residents receive one meal<br />

daily and weekly linen service as part of the<br />

service fee. Free laundry facilities are also located<br />

on each floor. Residents who need a modest<br />

amount of assistance in daily activities can<br />

arrange for services such as meal tray delivery in<br />

their own house or apartment, and for extra<br />

housekeeping and handyman services. A twoway<br />

emergency intercom connects all residences<br />

to the front desk. Any resident can arrange for a<br />

single meal, special diet, or for a meal plan in the<br />

Main Building’s spacious dining room.<br />

At the Village, residents have time to enjoy<br />

new adventures and good times with friends<br />

while the staff handles “the chores.” With the<br />

aid of staff, John Knox residents design and<br />

carry out the activity programs and events<br />

they have chosen.<br />

Some might call John Knox Village a fitness<br />

center since the wellness concept pervades<br />

every aspect of life. Carefree days are filled with<br />

a combination of stimulating social and<br />

physical activities and heart-healthy meals in<br />

the dining room. Something is always going on,<br />

either in the exercise room, the arts and crafts<br />

room and the woodworking and hobby room,<br />

or else in the ice cream parlor, billiards room, or<br />

the quilting and sewing rooms. Check out the<br />

beauty and barbershop, the party rooms and<br />

the gardening areas. For quiet moments, large<br />

armchairs in the library encourage residents to<br />

browse through the wide selection of<br />

magazines, books and videos. The Chapel<br />

meets spiritual needs with denominational<br />

services. Outdoors in South Texas’ tropical<br />

warmth, residents splash in the heated<br />

swimming pool and Jacuzzi or match up at the<br />

shuffleboard and horseshoe courts and at the<br />

putting green. And for inveterate shoppers, the<br />

Country Store carries convenience items.<br />

Monthly parties give all residents a chance to<br />

visit with each other and enjoy entertainment.<br />

✧<br />

Top: Residents may choose hacienda<br />

cottages or patio homes on the beautifully<br />

landscaped grounds.<br />

Above: The spacious lobby invites residents<br />

and visitors to enjoy good fellowship.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

307


✧<br />

Above: Resident volunteers staff the wellstocked<br />

library, which offers daily<br />

newspapers, music, tapes and CDs, videos,<br />

and a wide choice of books.<br />

Below: An old-fashioned ice cream parlor<br />

provides light refreshment and a place to<br />

visit with other residents.<br />

Outside the grounds, Weslaco and the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> offer recreational opportunities<br />

from nature trails and wildlife refuges to the<br />

white sand beaches at South Padre Island.<br />

Weslaco’s subtropical climate invites yearround<br />

golfing at the championship eighteenhole<br />

golf course at Tierra Santa and at the<br />

nine-hole Village Executive Golf Course, two<br />

of many courses in the area. <strong>Valley</strong> Nature<br />

Center, Frontera Audubon Center, and other<br />

Weslaco birding hotspots are easily accessible<br />

for viewing the <strong>Valley</strong>’s colorful, exotic<br />

wildlife. Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge<br />

with its hanging Spanish moss is nearby.<br />

Living at John Knox Village makes it easy to<br />

indulge in a favorite Border pastime: shopping<br />

and dining in Mexico, just across the bridge<br />

south of Weslaco. Cultural activities abound,<br />

too. Besides the City’s Tower Theatre and its Bi-<br />

Cultural Museum, art shows along with<br />

symphony concerts, museums, exhibitions and<br />

theater performances can be found throughout<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>. For pure fun, there’s Weslaco’s annual<br />

Onion Festival. John Knox residents participate<br />

in the larger community by volunteering at the<br />

hospital, museums, and schools and by taking<br />

part in clubs, organizations, and churches.<br />

The Health Building, named for long-time<br />

Executive Director Audrey L. Earl, boasts two<br />

garden areas with gazebos, one for Assisted<br />

Living and one for skilled nursing care. Inside<br />

and outside aviaries stocked with finches and<br />

parrots provide a great deal of enjoyment for<br />

residents and visitors alike. Med Center residents<br />

receive twenty-four-hour nursing service in a<br />

licensed unit on a short-term or long-term basis.<br />

“If I had to do it again, I would have come<br />

here sooner,” said Amelia Root, who lives in a<br />

garden cottage. “For me, the best part of John<br />

Knox is the sense of community. It feels like<br />

home; it is home.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

308


When S. G. Krishnan and Elizabeth Gopal<br />

Krishnan and their two children came to live in<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in July of 1973, they were<br />

the first natives of India to move to the area.<br />

This husband and wife team of physicians—<br />

he is an orthopedic surgeon and she specializes<br />

in obstetrics/gynecology—are both Board<br />

Certified and both have also been elected to the<br />

prestigious American College of Surgeons. They<br />

practice medicine in Weslaco as S. G. Krishnan,<br />

M.D. and Associates.<br />

The Krishnans met and became friends<br />

while attending medical school in India, and<br />

came to New York City to pursue post-graduate<br />

training in their medical fields. They married in<br />

St. John the Divine Episcopal Church in New<br />

York City in 1966, two years after coming to<br />

this country. Their two children, a daughter and<br />

a son, were born in New York and christened in<br />

the church where their parents were married.<br />

After remaining in the city for nine years, they<br />

moved to upstate New York to fulfill their<br />

dream of practicing in a smaller community. A<br />

year in that cold climate was more than enough,<br />

however, and they began looking for a small<br />

town in the Sun Belt. They found the answer to<br />

their “wish list” when Dr. S. G. Krishnan attended<br />

a medical meeting in San Antonio.<br />

Soon after his arrival in the Alamo City, he<br />

called home to tell his wife that he had found the<br />

region where they should move. With excitement<br />

evident in his voice, he explained that the<br />

area was “just like India,” with hot weather, palm<br />

trees, and bougainvillaea. His words sounded<br />

warm and wonderful to his wife and children,<br />

who were shivering on that September day in<br />

upstate New York, where the temperature had<br />

reached just twenty-eight degrees.<br />

The Krishnans immediately began researching<br />

opportunities available for physicians with<br />

their training in smaller communities in South<br />

Texas, and in October the family visited the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, basking in temperatures in the<br />

low 80s.<br />

Finding the area, the people, and the opportunities<br />

all welcoming, they returned to New<br />

York to begin the planning and work necessary<br />

to moving here. Even the relatively short delay<br />

seemed onerous to the children, who wanted<br />

to stay in the <strong>Valley</strong>, without bothering to go<br />

back to allow their parents to work out the<br />

details needed for the relocation.<br />

During the ensuing years the Krishnans’<br />

children have grown up, completed their<br />

studies, and embarked on careers. Both<br />

received undergraduate degrees from Rice<br />

University in Houston, then did postgraduate<br />

work. Their daughter is now a lawyer, and<br />

their son is an orthopedic surgeon.<br />

During the family’s first years in the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

they were the only natives of India living in the<br />

area. But two years later,<br />

members of their family<br />

moved here, as have a<br />

number of other families<br />

from their part of the<br />

world in the years since.<br />

This diversification has<br />

offered numerous advantages<br />

to the city and community,<br />

bringing a bit of<br />

India’s rich cultural history<br />

in arts, music, and language,<br />

as well as the<br />

background of a country<br />

that is the seat of origin<br />

of the Hindu and Buddhist religions.<br />

Of her family’s arrival in Weslaco, Elizabeth<br />

Krishnan says they came “like pilgrims.” For the<br />

first year they lived here, she spent full time as a<br />

mother, not beginning to work professionally<br />

until 1974, when her children started school.<br />

Although this is now their home, the<br />

Krishnans continue to return to India every<br />

year to visit relatives and friends, and to volunteer<br />

their professional services in their<br />

native country.<br />

They are also members of Health Volunteers<br />

Overseas, and are looking forward to going to<br />

Vietnam in September, to share their talents and<br />

training with young physicians in that country,<br />

and wherever else they are needed afterward.<br />

THE KRISHNAN<br />

FAMILY<br />

✧<br />

Top, left: Drs. S.G. Krishnan and Elizabeth<br />

Gopal Krishnan.<br />

Above: The Krishnan Family moved to the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in 1973.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

309


THE LLOYD<br />

BENTSEN FAMILY<br />

✧<br />

Above: Lloyd Millard Bentsen in World<br />

War I.<br />

Right: Lloyd and Edna Bentsen.<br />

Even at ninety-five, Lloyd Millard Bentsen<br />

did not believe in retirement. His farms<br />

and ranches covered approximately fifty<br />

thousand acres and, along with his citrus,<br />

banking, oil, and far-flung real estate interests,<br />

occupied the time not spent with his family or<br />

hunting and fishing. Throughout his lifetime,<br />

his pioneer spirit, astute insights, and<br />

generosity created a legacy that continues to<br />

enhance his community, his family, and the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Born to Danish immigrants Peter and Tena<br />

Bentsen on a homestead in White, South<br />

Dakota, on November 24, 1893, Lloyd<br />

Bentsen helped maintain the family’s stock<br />

farm. He received only a few years of formal<br />

education; however, he was a voracious<br />

reader. As a youth, he tamed wild mustangs in<br />

the Dakotas, followed the grain harvest across<br />

the Mid-West, and nearly lost his life in a<br />

motorcycle accident in 1915. During World<br />

War I, Lloyd enlisted in the U.S. Army Signal<br />

Corps, Aviation Section. He received his<br />

wings and an officer’s commission in the<br />

198th Aero Squadron, the Flying Wildcats.<br />

After the War and a stint of barnstorming<br />

with a flying circus, Lloyd joined his parents<br />

in Mission, Texas. The beautiful Red Cross<br />

volunteer, Edna Ruth Colbath, had caught the<br />

young man’s eye and the couple married in<br />

1920. Family always ranked foremost in their<br />

lives: their four children—Lloyd, Jr., Donald,<br />

Kenneth, and Betty—as well as their fourteen<br />

grandchildren—Lloyd III, Lan, Tina, Becky,<br />

Don Jr., Kathy, Karen, Molly, Betty, Ken Jr.,<br />

Will, Ellen, Dan Jr., and Susan.<br />

Adhering to a personal creed of “Back your<br />

judgment” and believing in the future of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Lloyd Bentsen slowly expanded<br />

his business of clearing land for citrus orchards<br />

into buying that land. He went into debt<br />

convinced that land purchases would pay off in<br />

the long run. He soon became involved and, in<br />

time, a leader in the development of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

cities and businesses. His enterprises ranged<br />

from banking, ranching and farming to real<br />

estate and oil. For fifty years, Mr. Lloyd, as he<br />

was affectionately called, was an owner and<br />

Chairman of the Board of several South Texas<br />

banks. He was co-founder of Lincoln Liberty<br />

Life Insurance Company and the Mission-<br />

McAllen Beef Syndicate. In 1946, envisioning a<br />

unified and carefully developed <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, Lloyd Bentsen co-founded the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Chamber of Commerce and served as its first<br />

president of what is now <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership.<br />

Lloyd Bentsen’s business interests were<br />

balanced by years of public service and<br />

philanthropy. Just before World War II, Bentsen<br />

organized and led a Texas Defense Guard<br />

battalion in the <strong>Valley</strong>, which inspired the<br />

formation of Defense Guard units across Texas.<br />

After serving thirteen years as the Texas State<br />

Guard Reserve Corps commander, he was<br />

inducted into the Guard’s Hall of Honor. The<br />

National Guard Association of Texas recognized<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

310


him as “one of Texas’ most distinguished citizen<br />

soldiers” and bestowed the Minuteman Award.<br />

He also received the U.S. Marine Corps League<br />

Citation of Merit for loyalty to community and<br />

country, along with The Texas A&M University’s<br />

Award of “Outstanding Texan” and the Silver<br />

Beaver Award from the Boy Scouts of America.<br />

Honors came also from the Texas Business Hall<br />

of Fame for his vision, dedication and courage<br />

that helped build modern Texas. The first<br />

Heritage Hall of Fame of the State Fair of Texas<br />

recognized him as a legend of the early <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> citrus industry and a Texas hero.<br />

The Lloyd Bentsen family was co-donor of the<br />

land for Bentsen State Park. Long a supporter of<br />

First Baptist Church of McAllen, he was a major<br />

supporter of <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Children’s Home,<br />

whose activity center is named for his wife.<br />

When questioned about his success, Lloyd<br />

Bentsen always gave the credit to his beloved<br />

wife, Dolly. Born September 6, 1898, in<br />

Somerset, Texas, she was reared by her<br />

grandparents. A cherishing wife, mother, and<br />

grandmother, Dolly is remembered as a beautiful<br />

woman, gracious and kind with a delicious sense<br />

of humor. Her homemade ice cream, rich with<br />

cream and a dozen eggs, was known far and<br />

wide. Quick to praise, soft-spoken Dolly was a<br />

treasure to her family and legion of friends.<br />

“One wonderful thing about Dad and Mother:<br />

they always said they were from the <strong>Valley</strong>, not a<br />

separate city. They had such pride in the whole<br />

area,” said daughter Betty Bentsen Winn. The<br />

Bentsen children have flourished: Lloyd Bentsen,<br />

Jr., as U.S. senator from Texas and U.S. secretary<br />

of the treasury; Donald Bentsen as an owner and<br />

CEO of several successful companies; Kenneth<br />

Bentsen as a prize-winning Houston architect;<br />

and Betty Bentsen Winn, who has remained<br />

involved with the Lloyd Bentsen enterprises and<br />

Foundation with her brothers.<br />

Edna Ruth Bentsen died in June 1977, after<br />

fifty-seven years of marriage. Lloyd Bentsen died<br />

in January 1989, leaving his family, friends, and<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> a better place to live<br />

because of his example, foresight, and<br />

commitment. As Lieutenant Governor Bill<br />

Hobby recalled, “He was one of the last, great<br />

patricians of Texas.”<br />

✧<br />

Above: The children of Lloyd and Edna<br />

Bentsen (from left to right): Donald,<br />

Lloyd Jr., Kenneth Bentsen and Betty<br />

Bentsen Winn.<br />

Left: The Lloyd Bentsen Family, 1987.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

311


VALLEY<br />

GRANDE<br />

MANOR<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor provides quality<br />

nursing care and rehabilitation services<br />

from this Weslaco facility.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor at Weslaco continues<br />

to bring a tradition of quality healthcare to<br />

residents of the <strong>Valley</strong>. But more than that, this<br />

thirty-two-year-old facility brings a civic<br />

awareness and social and religious commitment<br />

to the community it serves.<br />

Founded in 1968 with just sixty-two beds,<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor is affiliated with the<br />

Seventh-day Adventist Church and<br />

committed to following the example given by<br />

our Lord in His dealings with mankind. The<br />

goal has always been to provide loving,<br />

quality, cost-effective healthcare to each<br />

individual regardless of race, sex, religion, or<br />

physical condition within the capabilities of<br />

the Manor. It has been the administration’s<br />

objective to nurture the whole person:<br />

physical, mental, social, and spiritual. This<br />

devotion to Christian concern is extended to<br />

the employees, volunteers, families, and the<br />

community at large.<br />

It also provides a commitment to Christian<br />

education by providing work opportunities for<br />

students at the adjacent <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Academy, allowing them to finance their<br />

education. Students have been employed in a<br />

variety of departments, including nursing,<br />

housekeeping, laundry, activities, dietary,<br />

medical records, administration, maintenance,<br />

and landscaping.<br />

“One of our roles has always been to<br />

provide employment opportunities for these<br />

students,” said Sylvia Williams, administrator<br />

of <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor. “We help them<br />

finance their education, but more important,<br />

we are teaching them job skills that will be of<br />

benefit regardless of their career choice.”<br />

Williams points out that students learn<br />

about work ethics, responsibilities, and other<br />

issues related to succeeding in the workplace.<br />

“Students who go through our work/study<br />

program leave with valuable lessons,” she<br />

added. “By putting them in a vocational<br />

setting, they experience first hand the<br />

demands related to holding a position and the<br />

criteria needed to excel.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

312


During its thirty-two-year history in the<br />

Mid-<strong>Valley</strong>, the center has also evolved with<br />

the changing healthcare industry. Physicians<br />

and hospitals recognize the excellence and<br />

compassion that have become synonymous<br />

with <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor.<br />

In addition to offering quality long-term<br />

nursing care, <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor also has one<br />

of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s most comprehensive rehabilitation<br />

facilities. This center provides residents with<br />

comprehensive physical, occupational and<br />

speech therapy programs; respiratory services;<br />

and post-acute care following a hospital stay.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor also subscribes to the<br />

Eden Alternative philosophy, which<br />

incorporates plants, animals, and children into<br />

the nursing home environment. Plants grace<br />

common areas and residents’ rooms. In<br />

addition, cats, dogs, fish, and birds make their<br />

home in the Manor. Young people work here as<br />

well, and residents benefit from interacting with<br />

them and the animals. Every effort is made to<br />

encourage residents to participate in the care of<br />

pets, which helps to alleviate problems<br />

associated with loneliness and boredom.<br />

With a professional staff of more than 175<br />

employees, this 147-bed full-service facility has<br />

demonstrated a commitment to quality and<br />

compassionate care for residents of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor is a teaching facility as<br />

well as a care facility. It is used by a number of<br />

licensed vocational nursing and certified<br />

nursing assistant schools as a clinical site where<br />

students can get hands-on experience.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor’s philosophy of care<br />

extends well beyond the physical facilities.<br />

“We understand that the decision to place<br />

a loved one in a nursing home is a difficult<br />

one,” added Williams. “However, it usually is<br />

in the best interest of the care giver and the<br />

resident to consider this level of care at the<br />

appropriate time. Our staff works closely with<br />

families and friends of residents so that they<br />

understand the issues of nursing home care<br />

and the approach we take in caring for their<br />

loved ones.”<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor develops and<br />

implements programs that are custom<br />

designed for each resident by a team of nurses,<br />

certified aides, social worker, dietician, and<br />

activity personnel.<br />

“Our focus is to integrate each resident into<br />

a social setting so as to keep them as active as<br />

possible for as long as possible,” said Williams.<br />

“We draw on the experiences of many<br />

outstanding professionals to offer our residents<br />

the finest care and therapy in the area.”<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor is located at 1212<br />

South Bridge Avenue in Weslaco. For more<br />

information, call (956) 968-2121.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Staff members as well as residents<br />

enjoy the animals that make their home in<br />

the Manor.<br />

Below: Technicians check out equipment at<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor, which has one of<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s most comprehensive<br />

rehabilitation facilities.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

313


CARDIOVASCULAR ASSOCIATES<br />

In 1978 Dr. Marion R. Lawler, Jr., and Dr.<br />

Thomas A. Clark formed Cardiovascular<br />

Associates in Harlingen, Texas. Dr. Ruben<br />

Montelongo Lopez joined Cardiovascular<br />

Associates in 1999. All are Board-certified<br />

cardiovascular surgeons.<br />

Cardiovascular Associates specializes in heart<br />

surgery, providing comprehensive medical care<br />

to the cardiac patient. The surgeons’ procedures<br />

include open-heart bypass surgery, insertion of<br />

permanent transvenous pacemakers, as well as<br />

surgical treatment of valvular heart disease,<br />

aortic aneurysms, and carotoid artery problems.<br />

They also perform major vascular and thoracic<br />

surgical procedures.<br />

Even before Cardiovascular Associates was<br />

formed, its physicians were introducing<br />

cardiovascular innovations to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. Dr. Lawler performed the first open<br />

heart surgical procedure in the <strong>Valley</strong> in 1977.<br />

The same year, he was instrumental in<br />

establishing <strong>Valley</strong> Regional Heart Center at<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center.<br />

The use of progressive procedures has<br />

characterized CVA since that time. In 1985<br />

Cardiovascular Associates funded research and<br />

development for computerized intensive care<br />

records with functional home access link, the<br />

first of its kind in Texas. Recently, Dr. Ruben M.<br />

Lopez performed the first trans-myocardial laser<br />

revascularization of the heart in south Texas.<br />

Among CVA’s other innovative cardiovascular<br />

services, the surgeons insert permanent heart<br />

defibrillators and rings for mitral valve repair.<br />

CVA’s surgeons are also undertaking some<br />

coronary bypass operations “off-pump,” without<br />

the heart and lung machine.<br />

“Eighty percent of what we do are<br />

innovations new in the last ten years. Every year<br />

we incorporate new procedures,” said Dr. Clark.<br />

Coronary bypasses remain one of the most<br />

common heart operations and over 400,000<br />

are performed annually in the U.S. alone.<br />

Revolutionary procedures have enabled<br />

surgeons to cut recovery time in half and<br />

greatly reduce the length of hospitalization.<br />

“We have learned how to get you over open<br />

heart surgery in better shape,” Dr. Lawler<br />

pointed out. “Even as the population ages,<br />

and patients are older and sicker when they<br />

come to us, we’re able to do more for them<br />

than ever before.”<br />

Training in cardiovascular surgery requires<br />

the completion of a general surgery residency<br />

program followed by two to three additional<br />

years of specialized training in all the aspects<br />

of heart, blood vessel, and chest surgery. But<br />

cardiovascular surgeons are more than heart<br />

surgeons. They operate on the veins and<br />

arteries circulating blood throughout the<br />

whole body—in the legs, lungs, neck, and<br />

abdomen. CVA’s surgeons surgically treat lower<br />

extremity occlusion and perform major<br />

peripheral vascular surgery and reconstruction<br />

as well as micro vascular surgery for diabetic<br />

leg ulcers.<br />

Doctors Lawler, Clark, and Lopez are very<br />

aggressive in expanding their technical<br />

medical knowledge. Each earns double or<br />

more of the required Continuing Medical<br />

Educations credits annually. They are<br />

committed to improving the procedures they<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

314


can offer cardiac patients. Educating their<br />

patients is equally important. Cardiovascular<br />

Associates strives to explain procedures,<br />

recovery and rehabilitation along with<br />

providing information on controlling the risk<br />

factors that lead to heart disease.<br />

Dr. Marion R. Lawler, Jr., son of a Mercedes,<br />

Texas, surgeon, graduated from Southwestern<br />

University and Baylor College of Medicine. He<br />

completed surgical training at Vanderbilt<br />

University in thoracic and cardiovascular<br />

surgery. After serving as a thoracic surgeon<br />

aboard the U.S. Navy hospital ship Sanctuary off<br />

of Vietnam, Dr. Lawler established his surgical<br />

practice in Harlingen in 1971. He performed the<br />

first open heart operation in the <strong>Valley</strong> in July<br />

1977 and helped found the <strong>Valley</strong> Regional<br />

Heart Center at <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center.<br />

Dr. Lawler is a fellow of the American College<br />

of Surgeons, the American College of<br />

Cardiology, and the Southwestern Surgical<br />

Congress. He is a member of the Denton A.<br />

Cooley Cardiovascular Surgical Society, the<br />

DeBakey International Cardiovascular Society,<br />

the Society of Thoracic Surgeons, the<br />

International Society of Cardiovascular Surgery,<br />

the Texas Surgical Society, the American Medical<br />

Association, the Texas Medical Association, and<br />

the Cameron-Willacy County Medical Society.<br />

Dr. Thomas A. Clark, an Ohio native,<br />

graduated from the University of Florida and the<br />

University of Miami Medical School. His thoracic<br />

and cardiovascular surgery residency was<br />

completed at the Naval Hospital in Bethesda,<br />

Maryland. Dr. Clark is a fellow of the American<br />

College of Surgeons and a member of the<br />

American College of Cardiology, the American<br />

Medical Association, the Texas Surgical Society,<br />

the Pan-Pacific Surgery Association, and the U.S.<br />

Naval Reserve.<br />

Dr. Ruben Montelongo Lopez graduated<br />

from the University of Texas at Austin and the<br />

University of Michigan Medical School, and<br />

then completed his cardiothoracic residency<br />

at the Texas Heart Institute under the<br />

direction of Dr. Denton Cooley. He is trauma<br />

director for <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center and<br />

an associate fellow of the American College of<br />

Surgeons, a member of the Denton A. Cooley<br />

Cardiovascular Surgical Society and the<br />

Cameron-Willacy County Medical Society.<br />

Cardiovascular Associates is participating in<br />

the University of Texas Health Science Center’s<br />

Regional Academic Health Center. Medical<br />

residents will work with Cardiovascular<br />

Associates’ surgeons as part of their rotation.<br />

Dr. Lawler is currently a Clinical Professor of<br />

Cardio thoracic surgery at UTHSC, San<br />

Antonio. Cardiovascular Associates’ web site,<br />

www.valleyheart.com, explains how to avoid<br />

heart problems and lists the operations<br />

performed by the practice.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

315


✧<br />

Above: Newt and Maggie Dyer look back<br />

at their family from atop the mountain at<br />

Chipique, Mexico. They had honeymooned<br />

there and returned forty-five years later<br />

with their family for Valentine’s Day, 1997.<br />

Below: When Newt and Maggie retired from<br />

farming they began a new career in land<br />

development. This is the first building,<br />

nearly finished, of Capote International<br />

Business Park, Inc. This photo was taken<br />

south of the Military Highway and looking<br />

north, up Highway 281. The family’s time<br />

capsule is visible on the right side of the<br />

front of the building.<br />

THE DYER FAMILY<br />

The Dyer family of Pharr and Mission<br />

traces it heritage back to two early <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> settlers. James Newel Dyer, Sr., moved<br />

to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> for his health in the<br />

late 1920s, but he wasn’t too ill to participate<br />

in the region’s development as president of<br />

banks in McAllen and San Juan. When banks<br />

began closing during the Depression, he hit<br />

on a clever way to forestall panic among bank<br />

customers. He borrowed wooden bushel<br />

baskets from a packing shed, put false<br />

bottoms in them, stacked the top of each with<br />

dollar bills, and set them behind the tellers’<br />

cages. The tellers told everyone “Look, we<br />

have plenty of money. Your money is safe<br />

here.” And his banks indeed stayed solvent.<br />

In 1937, James Dyer, Jr., opened the<br />

Gateway Café, one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s premier<br />

restaurants in Pharr. He also owned citrus<br />

groves in Mission and San Juan.<br />

His son Malcolm, nicknamed Newt after<br />

his father and grandfather, graduated from<br />

Texas A&M College in 1952 with a degree in<br />

horticulture and a commission in the U.S.<br />

Army Artillery. The same year, after marrying<br />

Mary Agnes (Maggie) Busch, daughter of<br />

William Mathias and Agnes Mary Doffing<br />

Busch, he went to Korea to serve during the<br />

Korean Conflict. After several years in west<br />

Texas, Newt and Maggie Dyer returned to the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in 1957 and began farming<br />

on Military Highway south of Pharr with<br />

Maggie’s father William Busch. Maggie Dyer’s<br />

grandfather John Busch had farmed near La<br />

Lomita. Her other grandfather Nick Doffing<br />

had come to Mission in 1904 from Duncan,<br />

Oklahoma, and farmed land south of Pharr. In<br />

1923 Nick’s son Peter and his oldest daughter<br />

Josephine purchased the San Juan Plantation<br />

that John Closner created when the sugarcane<br />

industry was being formed.<br />

Under the name Capote Farms, Newt Dyer<br />

began raising cotton, grains and a wide variety<br />

of vegetables for the packing sheds. The name<br />

Capote Farms is a nod to the past and a onetime<br />

village that stood where the Pharr Bridge<br />

is now. The settlement once had a brick factory,<br />

a building dated 1883, and numerous houses<br />

made of mesquite and willow branches. It was<br />

destroyed by a combination of floods and<br />

droughts almost one hundred years ago,<br />

leaving behind only a small cemetery.<br />

The Dyer family no longer raises vegetables<br />

but grows sugarcane on more than one thousand<br />

acres and owns a citrus grove on the river. Their<br />

farm bordering the river has considerable natural<br />

habitat for wildlife, which makes living there<br />

exciting and enjoyable, say family members. The<br />

couple’s children have prospered. James William<br />

is a lawyer-engineer in McAllen and married to<br />

Cecily Silvernale of Denton. Don Phillip, married<br />

to Mary Theresa Rutkowski of St. Louis,<br />

Missouri, is the founder of Farm to Market<br />

Grocery and Silo Restaurant in San Antonio.<br />

Robert Anthony owns and operates Growers<br />

Select Produce, Inc. in Mission and is married to<br />

Christina Marie Plugge of Dallas. Theresa Dyer<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

316


Arizmendi has a Masters’ degree in child<br />

psychology, is a professional clown and a trauma<br />

counselor for youths. She is married to Richard<br />

Anthony Arizmendi, a master sergeant in<br />

the United States Army. They are stationed in<br />

Corpus Christi.<br />

Aggies have learned how to say “Wait until<br />

next year,” which is why they make good<br />

farmers, Newt Dyer will tell you. He has been<br />

a lifelong supporter of <strong>Valley</strong> agriculture,<br />

having served on the Boards of the San Juan<br />

Farmers Coop Gin, Cotton Inc., All <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Winter Vegetable Show, Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric<br />

Cooperative, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar<br />

Growers Association, San Juan Water District<br />

No. 2, Hidalgo County Farm Bureau, and<br />

other organizations. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Council of the Boy Scouts of America has had<br />

Newt and Maggie’s unwavering support.<br />

Destined for Texas A&M, just like their<br />

parents, Newt and Maggie’s grandchildren and<br />

their A&M classes are Sarah (’02), Noah<br />

Francis (’04), Briannah (’06), and Joseph Micah<br />

(’08), the offspring of J. W. (’75) and Cecily<br />

(’75). Bob (‘83) and Christina’s (’83) children<br />

are Emily Anne, Christopher Malcolm, Lucas<br />

Roman, and Nathaniel Robert. Phil (’77) and<br />

Mary’s children are Nicholas James, Gregory<br />

Gerard, and Matthew Alexander. Jeremiah<br />

James is the son of Theresa and Richard.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Newt wields the scissors and Maggie<br />

displays the Proclamation at the ribboncutting<br />

ceremony for Capote International<br />

Business Park, Inc., January 24, 2001.<br />

Various members of the Dyer family, the<br />

Pharr business community, and Miss Pharr<br />

look on.<br />

Below: The entire family gets together at<br />

every opportunity to share good times. The<br />

family welcomed the new century with a<br />

skiing trip to Copper Mountain, Colorado in<br />

January 2000.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

317


PLANNED<br />

PARENTHOOD<br />

ASSOCIATION OF<br />

HIDALGO<br />

COUNTY<br />

✧<br />

Below: The Methodist Church in Mission<br />

provided space for the first clinic. A house<br />

on Twelfth Street and Conway was donated<br />

in the late 1960s for a more permanent site.<br />

In 1990 the building was sold, and a new<br />

clinic was built on the same site.<br />

Bottom, right: Nurse practitioners at<br />

Planned Parenthood promote healthy<br />

lifestyles, and many patients visit the clinics<br />

for regular preventive screenings.<br />

In 1964, the first Planned Parenthood<br />

agency in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> was founded<br />

in Mission by a group from the First United<br />

Methodist Church, led by Reverend Bruce<br />

Galloway. To help people plan the spacing of<br />

their children and improve the family’s quality<br />

of life, the group addressed the issue of<br />

poverty and rapid population growth with<br />

education, counseling, and medical services.<br />

Staffed by volunteers and supported by local<br />

contributions, a clinic opened in the church’s<br />

basement and provided free or low cost family<br />

planning services to women with limited<br />

healthcare access.<br />

In 1965 McAllen’s Anti-Poverty<br />

Committee agreed to open a family planning<br />

clinic and soon other clinics and information<br />

centers were established in Hidalgo County.<br />

In 1967 the agency became a full-fledged<br />

Planned Parenthood affiliate. Today over<br />

20,000 people get healthcare at the six fulltime<br />

and several part-time health centers<br />

throughout Hidalgo and Starr Counties.<br />

Clinic services include birth control,<br />

screening for cancer and other health<br />

concerns, testing and treatment for sexually<br />

transmitted infections, and testing for HIV.<br />

For many patients, Planned Parenthood is<br />

their only source of preventive healthcare.<br />

Educating the community about<br />

preventive health and responsible choices has<br />

always been a primary focus. The “Knock on<br />

Every Door” project, begun in 1979, informed<br />

women about birth control and available<br />

services. During the 1980s, Planned<br />

Parenthood was the first Hidalgo County<br />

agency to provide education and outreach to<br />

prevent HIV/AIDS. The Active Community<br />

Teen Theatre (ACTT) was developed to<br />

promote communication between adolescents<br />

and their parents.<br />

Nationally recognized as a model health<br />

project, “Entre Nosotros or “Between Us” has<br />

offered reproductive health education to<br />

families in the rural areas of the county since<br />

1989. With a neighbor teaching neighbor<br />

approach, it uses peer educators to reach over<br />

20,000 people annually with information on<br />

family planning, cancer screening, disease<br />

prevention, and healthy lifestyles.<br />

Many volunteers have been instrumental in<br />

helping Planned Parenthood serve the<br />

community. Some of those most involved<br />

through the decades include Lila Baxter, Oralia<br />

Saldaña Cavazos, Dr. Daniel Chester, Reverend<br />

Mary English, Dell Hardwicke, Reverend Bruce<br />

Galloway, Joe Hopkins, Neal King, Noemi<br />

Lopez, Dr. Elinor March, Dr. Kenneth<br />

Landrum, Reverend Ernest Miller, Sue<br />

Peterson, Gracie Silva, Dr. Alvin Smith, O. A.<br />

Terry, Dr. Barbara Tucker, Jack Whetsel and Dr.<br />

Charles Wilson.<br />

While the agency has grown, adding many<br />

medical, educational and community<br />

services, Planned Parenthood’s vision<br />

continues to be “every child a wanted child.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

318


Community leaders who<br />

recognized the need for low<br />

cost, confidential family<br />

planning services for indigent<br />

families founded Planned<br />

Parenthood of Cameron and<br />

Willacy Counties in<br />

Brownsville in 1966. Doctors<br />

Lee Salinger and Harry Miller<br />

first organized the volunteer<br />

effort and with such<br />

community volunteers as<br />

Marvin Brown, Melanae<br />

Connor, and John Black<br />

established a part-time clinic.<br />

The mission was clear:<br />

everyone in the community<br />

has a right to information and<br />

services needed to make<br />

decisions privately about<br />

whether and when to add<br />

another child to the family.<br />

When all children can be<br />

welcomed into a family that is<br />

prepared to nurture and<br />

support the child, the<br />

mother, the family and the<br />

community benefit.<br />

Planned Parenthood’s mission focuses on<br />

making excellent, affordable reproductive<br />

healthcare available to the community. Because<br />

of the need for its services, the agency has grown<br />

to include five clinics, an education department,<br />

and two case management programs. Funding is<br />

provided through private donations, grants,<br />

contracts, and patient fees on a sliding scale.<br />

Family planning services include all FDAapproved<br />

methods of birth control. Female<br />

patients receive a pap smear, a breast exam, and<br />

a diabetes-screening test. The clinics provide<br />

pregnancy testing and counseling as well as<br />

testing and treatment for sexually transmitted<br />

infections for men and women. In addition,<br />

colposcopy services are available for women<br />

with abnormal pap smears. Promesa Salud, a<br />

case management project partially funded by<br />

Texas Department of Health and Texas Cancer<br />

Council, provides support to the patient with<br />

an abnormal Pap smear or mammogram to<br />

assure timely diagnosis and treatment. Eligible<br />

women over fifty receive free mammograms.<br />

Teen pregnancy prevention remains an<br />

important goal. The Education Department<br />

works with local schools and youth organizations<br />

presenting programs and materials that<br />

provide healthy, honest information to<br />

encourage teens to make responsible choices.<br />

The high rate of sexually transmitted infections<br />

and pregnancy among teens are clear<br />

evidence that many <strong>Valley</strong> teens are sexually<br />

active. Scientifically based information on<br />

reproductive health and pregnancy are provided<br />

with an important focus on abstinence<br />

as the safest, healthiest alternative for teens.<br />

The Positive Directions project assigns a<br />

licensed social worker to pregnant or parenting<br />

teens, to help them become self-sufficient,<br />

capable parents. The goal is for them to avoid<br />

future pregnancies and to stay in school.<br />

From being strictly a provider of birth control<br />

services, Planned Parenthood of Cameron<br />

and Willacy Counties has developed into a<br />

comprehensive women’s healthcare program<br />

while upholding its original mission.<br />

✧<br />

PLANNED<br />

PARENTHOOD OF<br />

CAMERON &<br />

WILLACY<br />

COUNTIES<br />

George Olivo, board member; Rosemarie<br />

Herrmann, executive director; and Sherry<br />

McCullough, board president, all of the<br />

Planned Parenthood Association of<br />

Cameron & Willacy Counties, greet Gloria<br />

Feldt (second from the left), president of the<br />

Planned Parenthood Federation of America.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

319


FOOD BANK OF<br />

THE RIO GRANDE<br />

VALLEY, INC.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Personnel from a member agency<br />

load their truck with can goods and fresh<br />

produce to distribute to needy families.<br />

Below: The Garden Fresh Express program<br />

provides fresh produce delivery to member<br />

agencies in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The Food Bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

Inc., located in McAllen, supplies food to over<br />

160 non-profit food pantries and feeding<br />

programs in six south Texas counties:<br />

Cameron, Hidalgo, Starr, Willacy, Zapata, and<br />

Jim Hogg. Since its founding as a food pantry<br />

in 1983 and as a food bank in 1986, the Food<br />

Bank RGV has grown to be the second largest<br />

food bank in distribution in Texas and the<br />

24th largest in the U.S. FBRGV distributes<br />

over fourteen million pounds of food annually<br />

on a budget near $1 million, maintains a<br />

volunteer force one hundred strong, and is<br />

managed by a professional staff and a twentyfour-member<br />

board of directors. Demands for<br />

assistance have doubled in the past two years,<br />

due in part to the large number of low-income<br />

families in the <strong>Valley</strong>. Hungry children are a<br />

very important issue and getting them<br />

nutritious meals is a priority of the Food Bank<br />

RGV. Through FBRGV member agencies,<br />

171,000 men, women and children received<br />

food assistance in 1999.<br />

A computerized inventory system tracks<br />

produce, packaged foodstuffs, frozen products,<br />

and refrigerated meats and cheeses<br />

that come into the FBRGV’s fifty-thousandsquare-foot<br />

warehouse. The Food Bank RGV<br />

distributes food five days a week to member<br />

agencies who give the food to needy families.<br />

It is also a distributor of USDA TexCap<br />

commodities and uses FEMA funds to<br />

purchase foods that are in short supply.<br />

Community donations supply most of the<br />

bounty for the needy. HEB is the single largest<br />

donor; followed by farmers, produce companies,<br />

and local retailers. FBRGV is a member<br />

of America’s Second Harvest, which distributes<br />

products from manufacturers such as Ocean<br />

Spray. Annual canned food drives by the Boy<br />

Scouts, Girl Scouts, the National Association of<br />

Letter Carriers, and the KBFM-104 High School<br />

Student Hunger Food Drive all benefit FBRGV.<br />

Civic groups, businesses, organizations, and<br />

churches are important donors and supporters<br />

of its mission. The annual Outdoors Spotlight is<br />

the main fundraising event for FBRGV.<br />

Qualified 501(c) 3 non-profit feeding<br />

programs receiving and distributing FBRGV<br />

allotments include Salvation Army, Ozanam<br />

Center, Loaves and Fishes, and numerous<br />

church operated food pantries. The Second<br />

Chance program provides the FBRGV<br />

warehouse with a much-needed workforce of<br />

Lopez State Jail inmates who learn job skills<br />

while they volunteer.<br />

In 2000 the Food Bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, Inc. was one of only fifteen non-profit<br />

agencies nationwide to receive the Victory<br />

against Hunger Award, presented by the<br />

Congressional Hunger Center for its Garden<br />

Fresh Express Program.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

320


<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Medical Center combines<br />

state-of-the-art medical facilities, equipment<br />

and professional expertise with a friendly,<br />

genuinely caring atmosphere that is reflected<br />

in every facet of its operation, to provide optimum<br />

care for patients.<br />

The Center, which began life in 1975 as<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Community Hospital, then had fewer<br />

than 100 physicians and 100 employees. Of<br />

the fourteen staff members remaining today,<br />

some recall a bucolic setting, with cattle grazing<br />

near the facility.<br />

Now housed in a three-story, 300,000-<br />

square-foot, $60-million facility built in 1998<br />

on the north side of Brownsville, the Center<br />

reflects the many changes in modern healthcare<br />

delivery. A three-story professional building<br />

containing 60,000 square feet has offices<br />

for nearly twenty-five physicians.<br />

A vital part of the area’s economy, the<br />

Center employs over 700, has about 200 doctors<br />

on the medical staff, and has an annual<br />

payroll estimated at $21 million.<br />

Designed for convenience, the most frequently<br />

used facilities such as admitting<br />

offices, pre-admission testing area, laboratory<br />

and radiology departments are all easily accessible<br />

from the main mall.<br />

The emergency services area offers both<br />

immediate assessment of the emergency, with<br />

a fast-track system to ensure most rapid care<br />

for the most urgent cases, and an observation<br />

unit for those who do not require hospital<br />

admission but are not ready to return home.<br />

VALLEY REGIONAL MEDICAL CENTER<br />

The Women’s Care Pavilion has its own covered<br />

entrance, providing labor and delivery<br />

facilities, adjacent newborn nurseries with<br />

infant security systems, neonatology facilities,<br />

and complete gynecological services. The finest<br />

surgeons available direct eight surgical suites.<br />

A twelve-bed Outpatient Surgery Unit provides<br />

efficiency and privacy for patients<br />

undergoing less-invasive procedures.<br />

Second-floor patient accommodations<br />

include thirty-one medical beds, twenty-eight<br />

surgical beds, twelve pediatric beds, and a<br />

specially designed twelve-bed progressive<br />

care area.<br />

A Skilled Nursing Facility and Rehabilitation<br />

Unit offers support and rehabilitation to help<br />

patients become self-sufficient.<br />

The state-of-the-art Meditech computerized<br />

information system allows faster access of information<br />

by the hospital staff and physicians.<br />

A new CAT scan provides threedimensional<br />

information to more accurately<br />

determine a patient’s injuries, blood vessels,<br />

bone structures, and brain tissue, while also<br />

reducing radiation exposure.<br />

A Pneumatic Tube Transport System<br />

distributes medications, blood, and other<br />

items faster and with more reliability, while<br />

maintaining security.<br />

Located at Expressway 77/83 and Alton<br />

Gloor Boulevard, the Center and its adjacent<br />

office buildings provide easy access to<br />

quality healthcare and twenty-first century<br />

medical technology.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

321


✧<br />

Above: Heart Clinic, Harlingen. Texas.<br />

Bottom: Heart Clinic, McAllen, Texas.<br />

HEART CLINIC, P.A.<br />

With an uncompromising commitment to<br />

patient care, the Heart Clinic offers advanced<br />

and comprehensive cardiac treatment for<br />

adults in a supportive environment. The<br />

Heart Clinic is the <strong>Valley</strong>’s largest cardiology<br />

group with Board-certified and Board-eligible<br />

cardiovascular sub-specialists. In five offices<br />

spanning the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Heart Clinic<br />

cardiologists put their hearts into taking care<br />

of their patients’ hearts.<br />

The Heart Clinic has led the way in progressive<br />

techniques of cardiovascular care since<br />

1983 when Dr. Hugo Blake founded the Heart<br />

Clinic as the first dedicated outpatient cardiology<br />

clinic in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Dr. Blake, the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first Board-certified<br />

invasive cardiologist, now serves as a director<br />

of the Heart Clinic and chairman of the board<br />

of directors. He was instrumental in establishing<br />

the McAllen Heart Hospital, the nation’s<br />

first freestanding cardiovascular hospital. Dr.<br />

Blake established the cardiology and cardiac<br />

catheterization programs at Brownsville Medical<br />

Center as well as the cardiology program at<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Regional Hospital. He is also a<br />

former director of <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center’s<br />

cardiac catheterization department.<br />

The Heart Clinic provides a full spectrum<br />

of in-clinic diagnostic services for the<br />

convenience of its patients and to speed the<br />

diagnosis and treatment of cardiac conditions.<br />

In-clinic procedures minimize travel and<br />

decrease stress for patients who require<br />

echocardiograms, electrocardiograms, nuclear<br />

cardiology imaging, and electrophysiology<br />

procedures. Stress tests, laboratory studies,<br />

Holter monitoring, vascular tests, and<br />

pacemaker and defibrillator follow-up care<br />

are other standard on-site procedures.<br />

Heart Clinic cardiologists conduct interventional<br />

and invasive hospital procedures such<br />

as coronary and vascular stents, angioplasty,<br />

cardiac catheterization, directional atherectomy<br />

and other advanced procedures as part of their<br />

full service, quality cardiovascular care.<br />

The Heart Clinic’s locations in Brownsville,<br />

Harlingen, Weslaco, McAllen and <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City give patients more flexibility in appointment<br />

scheduling. Every major hospital in the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

has a Heart Clinic cardiologist on the medical<br />

staff that insures informed treatment wherever a<br />

patient is hospitalized.<br />

From its founding, the Heart Clinic has<br />

led the way in cardiovascular care. Dr. Blake<br />

and Dr. Shereef Hilmy performed the first<br />

angioplasty in the <strong>Valley</strong> in 1984. In 2000<br />

Dr. Hilmy became the <strong>Valley</strong>’s first<br />

cardiologist to perform endoluminal graft. At<br />

the Heart Clinic, education and technology<br />

are directed to improving every patient’s<br />

quality of life and outcome. The Heart Clinic’s<br />

physicians and dedicated staff concentrate not<br />

only on caring for patients, but caring about<br />

them as well.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

322


THE HARDING<br />

FOUNDATION<br />

The Harding Foundation of Raymondville,<br />

which celebrated fifty years of philanthropy in<br />

1999, continues the legacy of one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s<br />

most enthusiastic and courageous pioneers.<br />

Before he left his native Minnesota for a<br />

warmer climate, William A. Harding had<br />

already worked his way through the<br />

University of Minnesota, married Laura<br />

Lindahl, farmed and raised cattle, perfected a<br />

side shift attachment for buggy shafts, and<br />

served a term in the Minnesota Legislature.<br />

After a flax-raising venture froze in 1911, he<br />

decided he would prefer to live in a part of the<br />

country that had 364 growing days a year<br />

instead of Minnesota’s 120. He purchased land<br />

around Raymondville, shipped his tractor and<br />

road-grading equipment to South Texas, and<br />

went to work grading roads, farming, and building<br />

commercial buildings in his new hometown.<br />

With partner Lamar Gill, he acquired<br />

50,000 aces of brushland, had it cleared, and<br />

brought prospective land buyers to the impressive<br />

Delta Lake Club House. Things were going<br />

great until the 1928-30 depression hit. He lost<br />

everything he had and owed $750,000.<br />

Never one to give up, he began slowly to<br />

recoup his losses and pay his debts. He was successful<br />

in oil and gas production and built a<br />

dehydrating plant on his Evergreen Farms to<br />

dry alfalfa, barley, oats and rye, in great demand<br />

for use in feed rations. Now he had a farming<br />

operation that ran 24 hours a day, 364 days a<br />

year. Needing a market for his Meyer lemons,<br />

he formed Puretex Lemon Juice, Inc., which<br />

flourished for twenty-five years.<br />

With the profits from dehydration, oil, gas,<br />

business buildings, and lemons, Will and Laura<br />

Harding funded their dream of Christian<br />

education through a family foundation “to<br />

support benevolent, charitable, educational or<br />

missionary undertakings and to further Christian<br />

education through the distribution of the Bible.”<br />

The Bible in Pictures was sold below cost, and<br />

a million copies distributed by 1981, when the<br />

project was discontinued. Small contributions<br />

were sent to hundreds of worthy causes. In<br />

1986 a grant to the Raymondville First United<br />

Methodist Church funded the Harding<br />

Fellowship Hall, a well-known communitymeeting<br />

place.<br />

The Foundation’s theological scholarship<br />

program is now its main priority. Since 1976<br />

the Harding Foundation has given more than<br />

$500,000 in scholarship money to over a<br />

hundred theological students in the U.S. and<br />

other countries. The Foundation also has given<br />

grants to build churches in Mexico and Africa.<br />

Their son, Rollo Harding, and his wife, Nola,<br />

continued the work of the foundation until their<br />

deaths. Nola Harding was an avid historian, and<br />

the records, newspapers and maps she amassed<br />

during her years of research are in the Reber<br />

Memorial Library in Raymondville for the public’s<br />

use. They also established a pioneer days<br />

room in the <strong>Historic</strong>al Center in Raymondville.<br />

Grandson Glenn, head of the foundation<br />

since 1982, carries on the family tradition of<br />

community service, joined by granddaughter<br />

Dorothy Jean Parr of Denton and greatgrandson<br />

Martin Dale Harding.<br />

✧<br />

Left: William Aspey Harding.<br />

Right: Laura Lindahl Harding.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

323


THE HESTER-<br />

JONES FAMILY<br />

✧<br />

Above: A.F. Hester, Sr., and wife, Mary<br />

Richardson Hester, at the Hester Plantation,<br />

south of Donna in 1911.<br />

Below: Forrest Edward Hester and daughter,<br />

Virginia Hester Jones, in front of the Hester<br />

home, Donna, Texas, c. 1915.<br />

Rich delta land along the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> River<br />

drew Albert Franklin Hester, Sr., a native of<br />

Meridian, Mississippi, to South Texas in 1898.<br />

Traveling by wagon and horseback, he<br />

reached the thick, thorny brush of the Llano<br />

<strong>Grande</strong> and La Blanca tracts, stretching 18<br />

miles inland from the river.<br />

After clearing property titles in March<br />

1902, Hester and fellow investors purchased<br />

23,745 acres of the historic land grants. The<br />

partners soon conveyed the land titles to La<br />

Blanca Agricultural Company.<br />

In 1902, the fifty-four-year-old Hester moved<br />

his wife, Mary Jane, and their five children from<br />

Village Mills in East Texas to Brownsville. He<br />

lived in a jacale on 152 acres of his land, clearing<br />

brush for planting and for the homestead,<br />

which was completed in 1904, near the Run settlement.<br />

That frame house served as the community’s<br />

first school when daughter Mary Hester<br />

taught classes there.<br />

La Blanca Agricultural Company, with A. F.<br />

Hester as president, began constructing an irrigation<br />

system in 1902 to bring <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> water to<br />

developing farmland. La Blanca evolved into the<br />

Donna Irrigation District, Hidalgo County No. 1.<br />

In 1904, Hester and partners founded the City of<br />

Donna adjacent to the new railroad line.<br />

A farmer, land developer, and visionary<br />

businessman, Hester grew vegetables and<br />

worked to bring the sugar industry to Donna.<br />

The disastrous <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> flood in 1909, with<br />

water rising to the top of the telegraph poles<br />

on Military Highway, convinced the Hesters<br />

and many neighbors to relocate six miles north<br />

to their new town of Donna.<br />

Hester and his family’s positions in the community<br />

reflect their civic involvement. He was<br />

charter trustee of Common School District 3<br />

(Run), charter president of the Donna I.S.D.,<br />

Hidalgo County Commissioner, formed the<br />

Donna Light and Power Company and was<br />

president of various financial institutions. T. I.<br />

Hester was a County Commissioner for sixteen<br />

years until 1954; Forrest E. Hester was Tax<br />

Assessor of Hidalgo County; A. F. Hester, Jr.,<br />

was postmaster in Donna and the Donna City<br />

Secretary; Guy W. Jones, Jr., was a trustee of the<br />

Donna I.S.D., a Weslaco City Commissioner<br />

and a trustee of Run Common School District as<br />

was his brother, Forrest L. Jones.<br />

A. F. Hester died in 1944 at age ninetyseven,<br />

but his descendants remain in the<br />

area and include granddaughters—Virginia<br />

Hester Jones and Mary Collier York; three<br />

great-grandsons—Guy W. Jones, Jr., Larry D.<br />

Jones, Forrest L. Jones; and seven greatgreat–grandchildren—Michael<br />

Hester Jones,<br />

Matthew Lee Jones, Mitchell Jay Jones,<br />

Rebecca Gay Jones, Larry Dean Jones, Jr., Veta<br />

York Allen, and Beverly York Strubhart. Four<br />

attorneys are numbered among A. F. Hester,<br />

Sr.’s descendants.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

324


TEXAS<br />

CITRUS<br />

FIESTA<br />

The citrus industry in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> was still young when Paul Ord and the<br />

Young Men’s Business League introduced the<br />

first Texas Citrus Fiesta at Mission in<br />

December 1932. They saw the celebration as<br />

a way to spread the word about the bountiful<br />

winter harvest of grapefruit and oranges from<br />

the lush, subtropical <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The theme of that first Fiesta, held<br />

outdoors against the background of citrus<br />

bearing trees, was “Coronation and Pageant of<br />

Citrus.” John H. Shary, considered the Father<br />

of the Texas Citrus Industry, reigned over the<br />

one-day celebration. It started with a halfhour<br />

concert and ended with the coronation<br />

of King Citrus and Queen Citrianna. This<br />

became a tradition of “royalty,” with a citrus<br />

industry leader chosen as King and a Queen<br />

from <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> “Duchesses,” each<br />

representing a <strong>Valley</strong> community and its<br />

product or industry.<br />

The second Fiesta did not take place until<br />

1934 because of the damage caused by a<br />

hurricane in 1933. Other than during World<br />

War II, it has been held annually. In the<br />

1930s, Fox Movietone News enjoyed showing<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>’s lovely ladies in bathing suits in a<br />

swimming pool of floating grapefruit while<br />

the rest of the nation was in a deep freeze.<br />

The Fiesta still takes delight in showing off<br />

the lovely ladies and handsome lads at the<br />

Coronation of King Citrus and Queen<br />

Citrianna. Coronation is now held indoors<br />

amidst the flourish of herald trumpets, during<br />

the last week of January.<br />

Since 1932 the Fiesta has presented its<br />

Product Costume Style Show. The exquisite<br />

costumes are made of citrus and other local<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> products. Through the years of modern<br />

technology, the costumes have become<br />

intricate works of folk art, using <strong>Valley</strong> citrus,<br />

fruits, vegetables and foliage that have been<br />

pulverized, dehydrated, blended and cooked<br />

in the microwave. These costumes have been<br />

featured in National Geographic, Southern<br />

Living, and Texas Monthly magazines, and at<br />

shows from Kansas City to Washington, D.C.<br />

Our unique Parade of Oranges features<br />

floats covered with citrus and <strong>Valley</strong> products.<br />

Today, the parade route is lined with over one<br />

hundred thousand spectators from the United<br />

States, Canada and Mexico, who come to<br />

watch the colorful floats built by civic clubs,<br />

churches and businesses.<br />

Fiesta activities have grown through the<br />

years and now include an Arts and Crafts<br />

Show; the Fiesta Fun Fair, with folk dancers,<br />

music, food and entertainment for every age<br />

group; and a Vaquero (cowboy) Cook-off, in<br />

which contestants cook over their campfires<br />

in front of their antique covered wagons.<br />

The Texas Citrus Fiesta is a historical and a<br />

continued tradition in the State of Texas!<br />

Come join us in Mission, Texas.<br />

✧<br />

Above: A new King Citrus, Queen<br />

Citrianna, and Royal Court are selected<br />

yearly to preside and reign over the Citrus<br />

Fiesta festivities.<br />

Below: The Texas Citrus Fiesta Float is the<br />

highlight of the Parade of Oranges. The<br />

Royal float travels throughout the State of<br />

Texas as the ambassador representing the<br />

Citrus Industry and the City of Mission.<br />

QUALITY OF LIFE<br />

325


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

326


THE MARKETPLACE<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong>’s manufacturers, financial institutions,<br />

and retail and commercial establishments provide<br />

the economic foundation of the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

H-E-B .......................................................................................328<br />

KRGV-TV5 .................................................................................330<br />

Texas State Bank ........................................................................332<br />

Whataburger..............................................................................334<br />

Aloe Farms by Mark Berry ...........................................................336<br />

Boggus Ford ...............................................................................338<br />

Campeche Seafood Products, Inc....................................................340<br />

Wells Fargo ...............................................................................342<br />

Payne Dealer Group....................................................................344<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill ..................................................................346<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes.........................................................................348<br />

Sea Garden Sales Company ..........................................................350<br />

Wallace Boudreaux, The Shrimp King of Texas.................................352<br />

Lockheed Martin Space Systems Company .......................................354<br />

Cardenas Auto Group ..................................................................356<br />

Rancho Viejo Resort & Country Club .............................................358<br />

Atlas & Hall, L.L.P. ....................................................................360<br />

Villalba Group, Inc. ....................................................................362<br />

Texan Guest Ranch......................................................................364<br />

Reynolds International, L.P. .........................................................366<br />

SBC Communications Inc..............................................................368<br />

Cingular Wireless .......................................................................369<br />

Olivarez Ranches by Kathy Olivarez ..............................................370<br />

Security 1st Federal Credit Union formerly<br />

Hidalgo Federal Credit Union.....................................................371<br />

The Walsh Family & Mission Shippers, Inc. ....................................372<br />

Texair Company, Inc. ..................................................................373<br />

Jones, Galligan, Key & Lozano, L.L.P. ............................................374<br />

Alamo Bank of Texas ...................................................................375<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers, Inc............................................376<br />

Best Western Palm Aire Hotel & Suites ..........................................377<br />

Villa de Cortez...........................................................................378<br />

K-10 Enterprises, Inc. .................................................................379<br />

Barbee-Neuhaus Implement Company .............................................380<br />

Burton Auto Supply.....................................................................381<br />

Weaks Martin Implement Company, Inc. .........................................382<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable Company, Inc. .........................................383<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain Corporation...........................................384<br />

Echo Hotel & Conference Center ...................................................385<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Armature & Electric ..........................................................386<br />

✧<br />

Top: In this photo, cabbage is being loaded<br />

on railroad cars for shipment in San Benito<br />

about 1915.<br />

COURTESY OF MARION MOYER.<br />

Bottom: La Feria’s first bank is now the<br />

home of the Gooch Insurance Agency.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

327


H-E-B<br />

The history of H-E-B encompasses almost a<br />

hundred years, from its beginnings as a tiny<br />

family shop in Kerrville, Texas, to its position<br />

today as a major supermarket presence in<br />

Texas and Mexico with hundreds of grocery<br />

stores and thousands of Partners (H-E.B’s<br />

name for its employees) throughout the state.<br />

H-E-B’s commitment to excellence has made<br />

it one of the nation’s largest independently<br />

owned food retailers. Yet that position as a<br />

leader in the food retailing industry has not<br />

changed H-E-B’s ongoing commitment to being<br />

the customer’s champion when it comes to<br />

service, quality, variety and low prices.<br />

In 1905 Florence Butt decided to open a<br />

grocery store in Kerrville, Texas, to support her<br />

family, and invested $60 to start the business.<br />

The C. C. Butt Grocery Store opened on the<br />

bottom floor of the family’s two-story home.<br />

By 1926 Howard E. Butt, son of Florence<br />

Butt, was at the helm of the company and<br />

decided to expand the business into the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> by purchasing some Piggly-<br />

Wiggly grocery stores. In 1928 the company<br />

headquarters was moved to Harlingen, Texas,<br />

under the new corporate name H. E. Butt<br />

Grocery Company. Stores were now open in<br />

Brownsville, Mercedes, Weslaco, San Benito,<br />

and Harlingen. By 1931, nine of the<br />

company’s twenty-four stores were operating<br />

in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, including stores in<br />

Donna, Raymondville, Mission and Pharr.<br />

In 1933 a major coastal hurricane veered<br />

into the <strong>Valley</strong> causing extensive damage to<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> community, yet the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

328


Harlingen store opened for business<br />

immediately after the hurricane, being the<br />

only store able to serve its patrons.<br />

Today, H-E-B continues to serve its<br />

customers and its communities after nearly a<br />

hundred years of business. At the beginning of<br />

a new millennium, H-E-B is an $8 billion<br />

company with nearly three hundred stores,<br />

including nearly twenty stores in Mexico. The<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is now home to nearly thirty<br />

stores, and stores are open in the Mexican<br />

Cities of Matamoros, Reynosa, and Nuevo<br />

Laredo, directly across the international<br />

border from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The company is still Texas-based and family-owned,<br />

led by Charles Butt in San<br />

Antonio, Texas, and employing more than<br />

50,000 Partners in over 140 communities.<br />

H-E-B’s commitment to its customers<br />

extends beyond the four walls of its stores and<br />

the quality of product offerings like its private<br />

label H-E-B Own Brand products. That<br />

commitment is evident in its policy to<br />

annually contribute at least five percent of its<br />

pre-tax income to the communities it serves.<br />

In 2001 H-E-B contributed products with<br />

a value of more than $32 million to over<br />

fifteen food banks in Texas and Mexico; it<br />

fed over 170,000 less fortunate people in<br />

Texas and Mexico with a free hot meal at<br />

seventeen H-E-B Feast of Sharing holiday<br />

dinners; and nearly fifteen hundred Texas<br />

schools were adopted state-wide by H-E-B<br />

in the largest public/private education<br />

partnership in the state.<br />

H-E-B continues to stress solid teamwork<br />

among Partners and superior service, quality,<br />

variety and low prices to its customers.<br />

In the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and in every other<br />

market in which it operates, H-E-B remains the<br />

best place to work and the best place to shop.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

329


KRGV-TV5<br />

✧<br />

Douglas Manship directed Mobile<br />

Video Tapes, Inc. to purchase KRGV-TV<br />

in the 1960s.<br />

“When it matters to you, it matters to KRGV-<br />

TV5” is more than just an appealing slogan,<br />

according to Station Manager Ray Alexander.<br />

“It shows our commitment to serving the<br />

public interest and the community’s needs by<br />

providing accurate news coverage and the best<br />

entertainment through the latest technology.”<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> television station<br />

features quality news and entertainment,<br />

demonstrating its dedication to the community<br />

through locally produced educational programs<br />

and public service projects.<br />

It all began in April 1954 when NBC affiliate<br />

KRGV-TV5 began broadcasting from<br />

downtown Weslaco, Texas. KRGV-TV5 drew<br />

early audiences with now classic television<br />

shows: Dragnet starring Jack Webb, You Bet<br />

Your Life with Groucho Marx, and the Milton<br />

Berle Show. Businessman O. L. Taylor was<br />

the station’s founding stockholder, but during<br />

its first ten years the station had a series of<br />

owners, including Lyndon B. Johnson. In<br />

1964 Mobile Video Tapes, Inc., directed by<br />

the Douglas Manship family, purchased<br />

KRGV-TV. The company has overseen the station’s<br />

development ever since.<br />

The Manship family’s commitment to quality<br />

television programming has nurtured and<br />

sustained the station through nearly forty<br />

years of growth, mirroring the growth of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. KRGV-TV5 moved to its<br />

current 900 East Expressway location in<br />

Weslaco in 1969, the same year the station<br />

began transmitting broadcasts from its 1,049<br />

foot tower in La Feria. When KRGV-TV<br />

became an ABC affiliate in 1976, <strong>Valley</strong> residents<br />

tuned in to Channel Five to view Happy<br />

Days, Charlie’s Angels, and Laverne and Shirley.<br />

To keep KRGV-TV running takes skilled<br />

crews working all day, every day. The staff uses<br />

innovations like the magical green weather wall,<br />

teleprompters, closed captioning for the hearing-impaired,<br />

and digitized editing to bring distinction<br />

to each of the station’s departments.<br />

The Five Eyewitness News department<br />

requires the station’s largest staff. It takes the<br />

combined efforts of technicians, cameramen,<br />

news producers, news anchors, and reporters<br />

on the scene with the live remote broadcasts<br />

units or at a news bureau to bring viewers up<br />

to the minute news on important <strong>Valley</strong><br />

issues, highlighting local people and events.<br />

First Warn Five Weather uses the industry’s<br />

leading on-air meteorological technology,<br />

which includes Storm Trackers, Lightning<br />

Tracker and the <strong>Valley</strong>’s strongest Doppler<br />

network, to provide the best advance information<br />

on weather problems. Pinpoint Future<br />

Track, a sophisticated computer installed in<br />

1999, anticipates weather shifts and provides<br />

detailed storm and temperature information<br />

pinpointed to time and specific neighborhoods.<br />

Overall, forecasts of the First Warn<br />

Five storm team allow viewers to see severe<br />

weather as its approaches, giving them time to<br />

make informed decisions about the weather.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

330


“This is just the beginning of what KRGV-TV<br />

5 will unveil in the coming year to provide the<br />

best weather coverage to keep you and your<br />

family safe,” Ray Alexander predicts.<br />

KRGV-TV’s programming department<br />

oversees the purchase and scheduling of<br />

shows such as Oprah, Seinfeld, and Home<br />

Improvement. ABC network programs like Who<br />

Wants to be a Millionaire?, 20/20, and important<br />

sports events keep loyal viewers tuned to<br />

Channel Five.<br />

Educational programming matters to<br />

Channel Five because it matters to the viewers.<br />

The award-winning Masterminds program, a<br />

high school-level academic quiz show, has<br />

showcased every high school in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

For meeting the challenges of tough questions,<br />

each team has $100 awarded to its library<br />

by KRGV-TV.<br />

Tying all this together, the control room<br />

engineers and operators make sure what is<br />

produced and programmed gets to the viewers.<br />

They keep feeds from the network, commercials,<br />

and remotes from news reporters<br />

transmitting in an uninterrupted stream. The<br />

promotional staff develops ads promoting the<br />

station and public service spots for community<br />

events and organizations. The creative<br />

staff produces commercials for businesses<br />

and ad agencies.<br />

Always a dynamic partner in the community,<br />

KRGV-TV has developed programs that<br />

enhance the quality of life in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

KRGV’s “Teach the Children” project raises<br />

funds to provide school supplies and school<br />

clothes to first graders from low-income<br />

families. “Wednesday’s Child” spotlights an<br />

adoptable older child in need of a permanent<br />

home. Channel Five has been awarded two<br />

Presidential Citations: one for its program<br />

Project Abuse with its examination of family<br />

violence and the other for the Job Bank<br />

telethon which aimed to connect employers<br />

with potential workers.<br />

In May 2000, all KRGV-TV’s cameras and<br />

editing equipment were digitized, part of the<br />

continuous process of employing state-of-theart<br />

equipment to bring the news, sports and<br />

weather quickly, clearly, to its audience. The<br />

station also opened a Hidalgo County news<br />

bureau and sales office in McAllen, joining<br />

KRGV offices in Brownsville and Harlingen.<br />

KRGV-TV5 continues to be responsive to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s history, involved in its present, and dedicated<br />

to its future, serving the public interest.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

331


TEXAS<br />

STATE<br />

BANK<br />

✧<br />

Top: Texas State Bank Headquarters opened<br />

on July 13, 1998.<br />

Bottom: Texas State Bank—1982 until July<br />

1998.<br />

“No One Knows The <strong>Valley</strong> Like We Do.”<br />

Texas State Bank’s motto offers a clue as to<br />

the mission of this <strong>Valley</strong> financial institution.<br />

Opening its doors in 1981, TSB welcomed<br />

customers, both individual and corporate,<br />

with the promise of personal service attuned<br />

to the financial needs of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. The temporary quarters, nine employees<br />

and $1 million in deposits may have<br />

appeared insignificant, but a year later TSB<br />

moved into its permanent home, aiming to be<br />

a financial mainstay of the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Today, Texas State Bank’s eleven-story<br />

building is the newest and most dramatic<br />

against the McAllen skyline. Atop this building<br />

stands a pyramid, shining bright as a<br />

beacon of trust, where countless <strong>Valley</strong> citizens<br />

look for financial expertise. It also stands<br />

as the guiding light for twenty-five other TSB<br />

locations spanning the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

With over $2 billion in deposits and $192.5<br />

million in shareholders’ equity at quarter-end,<br />

March 31, 2000, it is one of the largest financial<br />

institutions in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

All nine hundred employees and many<br />

customers would point to Glen E. Roney as<br />

the banker who knows the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

He is the chairman of the board and CEO of<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

332


oth Texas State Bank and Texas Regional<br />

Bancshares, Inc., the bank holding company.<br />

Biannually, Roney travels to the country’s<br />

major financial centers to explain to investment<br />

bankers and potential shareholders the<br />

virtues of investing in Texas State Bank and<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

However, Roney would point the spotlight<br />

back to a team of select individuals—the board<br />

of directors, officers, and employees. Each<br />

team member has joined him in pursuit of two<br />

goals—knowing the <strong>Valley</strong> inside and out and<br />

serving its citizens. Texas Regional Bancshares<br />

relies heavily on the leadership of the board of<br />

directors—Morris Atlas, Frank Boggus, Robert<br />

G. Farris, Kenneth Landrum, M.D., Julie<br />

Uhlhorn, Jack Whetsel, and Mario Max<br />

Yzaguirre, along with advisory directors Danny<br />

Buttery, Frank Kavanagh, and Paul Moxley.<br />

Paul Moxley, Ann Sefcik, Nancy Schultz, and R.<br />

T. Pigott, Jr., join Roney as holding company<br />

officers. The bank itself has forty-three directors<br />

and advisory directors representing every<br />

facet of the <strong>Valley</strong>. In memoriam, Texas State<br />

Bank pays tribute to the faithful service of<br />

directors Jack Boggus, Vannie Cook, Jr., R. E.<br />

Friedrichs, Joe Kilgore, and John Willis.<br />

Because northern Mexico is part of the<br />

heart and soul of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, TSB<br />

realized the importance of a strong international<br />

department. Today, their multilingual<br />

and multicultural banking experience is recognized<br />

globally. National awareness of the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> also increased when Texas Regional<br />

Bancshares stock began trading publicly<br />

under the symbol TRBS on the NASDAQ<br />

Stock Market in 1994. The stock became a<br />

means of investing in the future of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. While investors own bank<br />

stock worldwide, over 1,000 shareholders live<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong>. Texas State Bank also offers brokerage<br />

and trust services unequaled in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>. The computer age introduced a way<br />

that Texas State Bank could serve other banks.<br />

They now offer data processing services to<br />

other banking institutions in the <strong>Valley</strong>. At the<br />

start of the new millennium, Internet banking<br />

is the newest service offered by TSB to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Giving back to the community, both corporately<br />

and individually, is what Texas State<br />

Bank does best. Not only through loans and<br />

other banking services, but also in donations<br />

to charitable, educational, and non-profit<br />

organizations. Besides monetary donations,<br />

employees donate time on behalf of Texas<br />

State Bank. They chair gala events, work at<br />

auctions, serve on boards of directors, and<br />

answer phones in the telethons.<br />

Because the <strong>Valley</strong> contains two of the<br />

fastest growing regions in the U.S.A., Texas<br />

State Bank anticipates continuing its own<br />

strong growth trend. Two new bank buildings<br />

in Harlingen and Brownsville are under construction,<br />

and bank facilities are constantly<br />

being updated throughout the <strong>Valley</strong>. Total<br />

assets were over $2.1 billion at year-end<br />

1999, up 194 percent since Texas State Bank’s<br />

first annual report in 1981. As of year-end<br />

1999, deposits have grown 218 percent since<br />

the bank’s first operational year. Loan volume<br />

has seen a 276 percent increase since 1981.<br />

No matter how rapidly the region is growing,<br />

the Texas State Bank team strives to meet<br />

the needs of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. At one TSB<br />

location, a potential college student talks to a<br />

loan officer about a student loan. A vice-president<br />

of a Fortune 500 company visits with<br />

TSB officers about relocation opportunities in<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>. Another bank employee tours a<br />

group of elementary students by the safety<br />

deposit vault. A newlywed couple sits with a<br />

new accounts representative picking out personalized<br />

checks, and the tellers busily cash<br />

payroll checks for employees from a wellknown<br />

manufacturing facility.<br />

No One Knows The <strong>Valley</strong> Like We Do.<br />

✧<br />

Glen E. Roney, chairman of the board,<br />

Texas Regional Bancshares, Inc. and Texas<br />

State Bank.<br />

COURTESY OF GITTINGS & LORFING PHOTO, ©1999.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

333


WHATABURGER<br />

✧<br />

Above: Whataburger founder Harmon<br />

Dobson in the early years.<br />

Right: Harmon Dobson at his first<br />

Whataburger, c. 1950.<br />

On August 8, 1950, Harmon Dobson<br />

opened a small hamburger stand with a big<br />

name: Whataburger.<br />

A former bush pilot and a businessman,<br />

Dobson had been involved in everything from oil<br />

to diamonds to cars before trying his hand at the<br />

hamburger business. But after selling hundreds<br />

of twenty-five-cent burgers on opening day, he<br />

wrote in his journal, “Whataburger will probably<br />

turn out to be my life’s work.”<br />

Today millions of Whataburger fans know<br />

he was right. The six-hundred-store hamburger<br />

chain, boasting its famous quarter-pound, all-<br />

American beef hamburger on a five-inch bun<br />

with lettuce, three slices of tomatoes, four dill<br />

pickle slices, chopped onions, and mustard, has<br />

achieved icon status across the South.<br />

How Dobson did it, though, had remained<br />

in the background until 1999, when family<br />

members and company personnel began<br />

searching archives—including Dobson’s journals—preparing<br />

for the company’s fiftieth<br />

anniversary. The event honored the company’s<br />

founder and his commitment to making great<br />

tasting, made-to-order burgers that have<br />

propelled Whataburger’s growth to the eighth<br />

largest hamburger chain in the nation.<br />

Dobson’s journals reveal that in 1950 he<br />

decided that his hamburger buns must be<br />

larger than the standard four-inch size, believing<br />

that in Texas, where people think big, the<br />

Whataburger really needed to be large to<br />

make people exclaim, “What a burger!” He<br />

struck a deal with Rainbo Bread Company to<br />

manufacture pans for the first five-inch buns.<br />

“Our heritage is an important part of our<br />

company culture,” says Dobson’s son, Tom,<br />

now Whataburger’s chairman and CEO. “We<br />

have made great progress—our food has even<br />

traveled with the space shuttle, but so much<br />

of what we do today is the same as it was fifty<br />

years ago. We are thrilled to finally share the<br />

words and sentiment of the man who started<br />

it all.”<br />

Harmon Dobson used his training as a bush<br />

pilot to promote his new business, towing<br />

bright red “Whataburger” banners behind his<br />

single-engine Piper Super Cub, blowing a big<br />

air horn that sounded like a duck honking. He<br />

dropped coupons and leaflets from the plane,<br />

inviting folks to the restaurant. Through his<br />

hard work and ingenuity he managed to turn<br />

Whataburger into the hamburger of choice for<br />

Texans, who have rewarded the company with<br />

unmatched loyalty. There are now six hundred<br />

Whataburger restaurants throughout eight<br />

states and in Mexico. The distinctive restaurants<br />

feature an orange-and-white-striped roof and<br />

offer a variety of products, but the mainstay of<br />

the menu continues to be the signature grilled<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

334


quarter-pound, all-American beef Whataburger<br />

on a five-inch bun.<br />

The Whataburger difference is the quality of<br />

its food and the people who prepare it. In its<br />

advertising campaigns Whataburger openly<br />

acknowledges that its customers don’t want the<br />

fastest or lowest-priced food—they want the<br />

best. The Whataburger is famed for its taste<br />

and freshness, and every burger is made to<br />

order. Billboards reflect quiet confidence: “You<br />

could get a cheaper burger. But then you’d<br />

have to eat it.” The corporate slogan is: “Just<br />

like you like it.”<br />

Company highlights are plentiful:<br />

• 1959: First restaurant outside Texas, the<br />

twenty-first, opened in Pensacola, Florida<br />

• 1961: First three-story A-frame building<br />

with orange-and-white striped roof, a<br />

design that has served as a visual billboard,<br />

and was recognized in 1991 by The Whole<br />

Pop Catalog, as a pop icon of the 1960s<br />

• 1979: Began serving breakfast in all<br />

locations<br />

• 1982: Began twenty-four-hour operations<br />

in all locations<br />

• 1992: Expanded into Mexico, making<br />

Whataburger a truly international phenomenon<br />

Growth has been tremendous. The 100th<br />

restaurant opened in 1972; the 200th by<br />

1978; 300th in 1980; and 500th in 1995.<br />

When Dobson died in a plane crash in<br />

1967, his wife, Grace, took over the business.<br />

In 1994 his eldest son, Tom, became company<br />

president and CEO and immediately went to<br />

work restoring Whataburger’s original vision:<br />

to provide outstanding service and top<br />

quality, made-to-order food to satisfied<br />

customers. He assembled a new, streamlined<br />

management team and implemented an<br />

aggressive “back to basics” approach. Overall<br />

sales jumped five percent that year and ten<br />

percent in 1995, earning Whataburger the top<br />

ranking in same store sales growth by Nation’s<br />

Restaurant News.<br />

Under Tom Dobson’s leadership Whataburger<br />

continues to thrive in the most competitive<br />

sector of the restaurant industry, thanks to loyal<br />

customers and dedicated service by team<br />

members. There are hundreds of stories about<br />

customers who have had Whataburgers sent<br />

to them out-of-state via Federal Express, and<br />

transplanted Texans whose first meal upon<br />

returning home is at a Whataburger.<br />

In 1999 the company opened its flagship<br />

restaurant, the two-story, sixty-one-hundredsquare-foot<br />

“Whataburger by the Bay” in downtown<br />

Corpus Christi, where Harmon Dobson is<br />

immortalized in bronze at the bayside entrance.<br />

Even while celebrating Whataburger’s first<br />

fifty years, the family-owned and -operated<br />

business is positioned for the future,<br />

rededicating itself to being the best<br />

hamburger company in the industry.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Chairman and CEO Tom Dobson.<br />

Below: Nighttime A-frame Whataburger.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

335


ALOE FARMS<br />

BY MARK BERRY<br />

✧<br />

Above: Aloe Farms’ frugal beginnings.<br />

Below: Mark Berry caught in a snowstorm<br />

in Alpine Texas, on the way to California to<br />

sell aloe.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> happens to<br />

have the right combination of climate,<br />

soil and water to grow Aloe Vera, the<br />

“miracle plant,” and ninety-five percent<br />

of the world’s commercial production<br />

comes from the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of<br />

Texas and northern Mexico.<br />

The plant’s thick green leaves are<br />

filled with a jelly-like substance that is<br />

made into Aloe Vera juice, gel, and<br />

capsules. Although, official claims<br />

cannot be made for the aloe products,<br />

many people say they help such<br />

problems as ulcers, arthritis, internal<br />

stomach ailments, external skin<br />

disorders, and especially burns.<br />

Cosmetic manufacturers also use Aloe<br />

Vera in skin creams, sunburn lotions and<br />

other preparations.<br />

Mark Berry first heard of Aloe Vera’s<br />

healing qualities during a vacation in Miami<br />

Beach, Florida in 1967 when the caretaker of<br />

the Jackie Gleason golf course introduced him<br />

to Aloe Vera. He told about two airline<br />

stewardesses who were sunbathing and got so<br />

burned they couldn’t go to work. He gave<br />

them Aloe Vera, told them how to apply it to<br />

the burns, and in a very short time they were<br />

able to return to work. Berry did some<br />

research on the plant and found that a<br />

company in Fort Lauderdale, Florida was<br />

already very involved with the product, so he<br />

decided not to go any further.<br />

In 1976 Berry left the printing trade to find<br />

a business that he could start and selected<br />

South Texas to search for a new beginning.<br />

While driving around the Harlingen area, he<br />

saw fields of Aloe Vera. He introduced himself<br />

to Bill Mangum, the grower, and asked about<br />

the growing of Aloe Vera and what type of<br />

market he had.<br />

“He said the market was expanding and<br />

that he would be glad to help me get started,”<br />

said Berry. “I bought plants from him and<br />

started planting them on my first five acres in<br />

Bayview, Texas.<br />

“Soon the plants were growing so well that<br />

I couldn’t drive the tractor in the field to<br />

cultivate. I cut the plants back drastically and<br />

used the tractor tires to crush the leaves into<br />

the ground. It was very difficult since the gel<br />

from the leaves just made the tires slip so<br />

much that I was afraid that the tractor would<br />

get stuck.<br />

“One day I saw Bill standing by my field<br />

looking very puzzled. He asked what in the<br />

world I was doing, and I told him that I was<br />

rebuilding my soil with the leaves because I<br />

didn’t want to look stupid. He told me the<br />

upper <strong>Valley</strong> had experienced a freeze and<br />

that he needed good quality leaves. He offered<br />

to buy all I had, which now had been reduced<br />

to fifty percent by the severe cutting.<br />

“The sale of those leaves opened the door<br />

for me and probably saved the venture. Later<br />

I sold leaves to Jim Morrison, a manufacturer<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

336


in Santa Rosa, Texas. I had a chemistry<br />

background from my college days, so he let<br />

me work in his lab experimenting with<br />

formulas. As we tracked the market, Aloe<br />

seemed to be developing in the cosmetics<br />

industry as well as the health food market.”<br />

“Just as things were looking good, a severe<br />

freeze in December 1983 sent the Aloe<br />

industry a wake-up notice. Everybody lost<br />

their crop and many people went out of<br />

business. To make matters worse, the savings<br />

and loan company that had my savings went<br />

into bankruptcy and my savings were<br />

unrecoverable for business needs. Just six<br />

months earlier I had bought a house and<br />

married Elvia Koite of San Benito. Fortunately,<br />

she was employed as a respiratory therapist,<br />

which gave us money to live on until the<br />

business could recover.”<br />

That is when Berry decided to get into the<br />

processing business and take his products<br />

directly to the marketplace. He bought an old<br />

van and drove to every health food store he<br />

could find. Soon he was able to buy a bigger<br />

truck. When he outgrew that, he started to<br />

use the telephone and acquired brokers and<br />

distributors.<br />

After the deadly freeze in 1983, Berry<br />

developed innovative cultivation practices that<br />

have helped him survive various freezes while<br />

others lost their crops. He also has diversified<br />

and now has the largest domesticated planting<br />

of Chaya trees in the world. Chaya is a product<br />

used by diabetics to control blood sugar<br />

without the use of insulin. A liquid<br />

formulation is made from the leaves of the<br />

Chaya tree and is packaged alone or combined<br />

with Aloe Vera juice or gel.<br />

Aloe Farms is the creator of the whole leaf<br />

Aloe Vera capsule, along with various other<br />

formulas of Aloe Vera. Their product list has<br />

diversified from their own brand to many<br />

private label brands and bulk material sent to<br />

other manufacturers throughout the United<br />

States and abroad.<br />

Berry supplies his Aloe and Chaya products<br />

to wholesalers and to retail outlets like Aloe<br />

Vera Products “Harbison’s Original” at<br />

Weslaco, where Gary Harbison has<br />

developed a substantial business with<br />

area residents and Winter Texans.<br />

“I remember when Mark Berry came<br />

from Wisconsin to begin his Aloe Farms<br />

venture in 1976,” said Harbison. “His early<br />

years were rough, but he has developed a<br />

solid business and is an outstanding<br />

manufacturer and supplier.”<br />

As the business has grown, so has the<br />

Berry family. It now includes four<br />

children, Brenda, Michael, Catherine,<br />

Patricia, and a grandson, Dante. Aloe<br />

Farms has its offices in Harlingen, with<br />

its growing and processing operations<br />

in Bayview.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Mark Berry loading fertilizer in New<br />

Mexico destined for Aloe Farms.<br />

Below: Kusuo Koite (left) and Mark Berry<br />

loading boxes of leaves in Bayview Texas,<br />

June 1981.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

337


BOGGUS FORD<br />

Boggus Ford, now operated by the third<br />

generation of the Boggus family, is a vital part<br />

of Texas’ <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> business<br />

community today, as it has been since its<br />

founding by Lewis Boggus, Sr., in 1921.<br />

Subsequent operators of the business were<br />

Lewis, Sr.’s son, Frank, and grandsons, Jack,<br />

who prior to his death ran the Harlingen<br />

location, and Bob, who is now president of<br />

both Boggus Ford dealerships, located in<br />

Harlingen and McAllen.<br />

The family’s history has also been a part of<br />

civic and charitable organizations throughout<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> for eighty years, another family tradition<br />

that began with Lewis and is proudly<br />

continued by his descendants.<br />

The son of Mr. and Mrs. Frank Boggus,<br />

Lewis Boggus, Sr., was born March 25, 1901,<br />

on a small ranch operated by his parents in<br />

Odem, know then as Angelita Community. He<br />

began his “business” career before the age of<br />

six, herding sheep for his uncle for $3 per<br />

month and using the money to purchase<br />

school clothes. Throughout his public education<br />

and while attending business college in<br />

San Antonio, he held odd jobs.<br />

In 1917 the business college arranged for<br />

him to keep books for L. R. Daniel, McAllen’s<br />

Ford dealer. Arriving by train in what was<br />

then little more than a village of mesquite<br />

brush lands, Lewis discovered that his “bookkeeping”<br />

job also included washing cars and<br />

managing the parts department. He became a<br />

salesman in 1918, when Henry Ford directed<br />

that each dealership survey its area to find out<br />

how many people owned Ford vehicles—and<br />

why the rest didn’t.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

338


The major “perk” of Lewis’ new job, in<br />

addition to a commission, was the opportunity<br />

to drive the Model T demonstrator, then<br />

one of the few cars in the <strong>Valley</strong>. He made his<br />

first sale unexpectedly, as he drove up behind<br />

a farmer and his three daughters, who were<br />

driving a team of fine horses. Horses weren’t<br />

accustomed to automobiles in that era, so<br />

Lewis kept a safe distance behind for the nine<br />

miles to Pharr.<br />

When the farmer drove into the stable<br />

yard, Lewis approached, asking the man if he<br />

had ever considered buying an automobile.<br />

Immediately, one of the daughters said they<br />

had been trying to get him to buy a car for<br />

months. Badgered by his daughters, the man<br />

agreed to the purchase, providing Lewis<br />

would teach one of the girls to drive. The<br />

young salesman happily agreed, recalling<br />

later that the twenty-three-year-old daughter<br />

“wasn’t bad looking.” At that time, teaching a<br />

new car purchaser to drive was essential to<br />

effective salesmanship.<br />

Soon Lewis became known as a super<br />

salesman, though much of his success was<br />

based on hard work and common sense. As he<br />

covered his large territory he watched for men<br />

with good-looking teams, as they could<br />

obviously afford a car.<br />

He sold twelve cars the first month, and<br />

after three years—at the advanced age of<br />

twenty—he obtained a bank loan to purchase<br />

a dealership at Mission, thus becoming the<br />

youngest Ford dealer in the country. After<br />

operating the dealership for two years, he sold<br />

it to Patteson Motor Company of Brownsville,<br />

in exchange for a vice presidency in the<br />

Brownsville dealership. During the next few<br />

years Lewis bought and operated dealerships<br />

in Raymondville, San Benito, Corpus Christi,<br />

Harlingen and McAllen, retaining only the<br />

latter two, which his descendants still operate.<br />

Lewis’ son, Frank N. Boggus, moved to<br />

McAllen in 1950, following graduation from<br />

Texas A&M, beginning work in the sales<br />

department and eventually becoming general<br />

manager. In 1952, after Lewis Sr. purchased<br />

the Corpus Christi Ford franchise, another<br />

son, Lewis. Jr., moved to Corpus to run that<br />

dealership. In 1953 Frank and his wife, Peggy,<br />

moved to Harlingen. After spending time in<br />

the Air Force, they returned to Harlingen with<br />

their daughter, Barbara Sue, a graduate of<br />

Southwestern University, and twin sons, Bob<br />

and Jack.<br />

After his father’s death, Frank took over as<br />

dealer in McAllen, building the facilities the<br />

dealership still occupies on the Expressway. In<br />

1977 Bob graduated from the University of<br />

Texas and Jack from Southwest Texas. Bob<br />

Boggus moved to McAllen to work at the<br />

dealership there, eventually becoming the<br />

general manager, while Jack became the<br />

general manager at Harlingen. Their sister,<br />

Barbara Sue, returned to Harlingen, and also<br />

has been involved with various projects in<br />

the dealerships.<br />

In the earliest years of the Boggus<br />

dealerships, cars and trucks were delivered in<br />

railroad boxcars, and had to be put together<br />

to some extent. In today’s computer age,<br />

vehicles are sold through the Boggus website.<br />

As Lewis did before them, all members of<br />

the Boggus family participate in <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> community activities and development.<br />

Frank is a past-president of the Harlingen<br />

School Board and present chairman of the<br />

Airport Board. Bob serves as president of the<br />

Fellowship of Christian Athletes and is<br />

chairman-elect of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Partnership. Barbara Sue was instrumental in<br />

bringing the Ronald McDonald House to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, and was chairman of its building<br />

committee and a past chairman of the board.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

339


✧<br />

CAMPECHE<br />

SEAFOOD<br />

PRODUCTS,<br />

INC.<br />

Above: Ivo M. Goga, pioneer of the Mexican<br />

commercial shrimping industry, owner of<br />

Brownsville-based shrimp boat fleet, and<br />

founder of Campeche Seafood Products, Inc.<br />

Below: Ivo J. Goga (center), president of<br />

Campeche Seafood Products, Inc. Seated are<br />

Gregory Goga, and Marie Goga.<br />

In fine restaurants from New York and<br />

Boston to Chicago and Dallas, plump and<br />

flavorful Gulf shrimp are served to appreciative<br />

diners. Campeche Seafood Products Inc., one<br />

of Texas’ largest shrimp marketers and<br />

distributors, operates its own shrimp fleet from<br />

the Port of Brownsville and also buys shrimp<br />

from hundreds of independent shrimp boat<br />

operators trawling the Texas and Mexico Gulf<br />

coasts. This family-owned company is<br />

continuing a tradition of delivering wholesome<br />

Gulf of Mexico seafood from coast to coast.<br />

More than sixty years ago, the foundation was<br />

laid for Campeche Seafood’s success today.<br />

The year was 1939 and nineteen-year-old<br />

Ivo M. Goga arrived in New York aboard a<br />

Yugoslav Royal Naval Academy’s sailing ship. A<br />

native of the ancient walled city of Dubrovnik,<br />

Croatia, young Goga decided to take his<br />

chances in the United States and enlisted in the<br />

U.S. Merchant Marine. He served through<br />

World War II on cargo ships crossing the<br />

oceans, including the torpedo-laced waters of<br />

the infamous Murmansk Run. Following the<br />

war, Goga’s affinity for ships and the sea led him<br />

to become a partner in a shipping line between<br />

New Orleans and Mexico. Intrigued by the<br />

potential of shrimping south of the border, he<br />

helped pioneer the shrimping industry in<br />

Mexico in 1952, initially salvaging and<br />

restoring a sunken American shrimp boat. The<br />

boat, appropriately named El Campechano, was<br />

the first trawler based out of the city of<br />

Campeche. From this modest beginning, Goga’s<br />

enterprise grew into a large commercial fishing<br />

operation. Forging a partnership with a<br />

prominent Campeche entrepreneurial family,<br />

Goga became a part of the “Epoca de Oro,” the<br />

Golden Age of shrimping.<br />

In 1961 Goga brought his family to<br />

Brownsville, Texas, with a vision of building a<br />

commercial shrimping operation and an<br />

import/export seafood company. Although<br />

wooden trawlers dominated the local shrimp<br />

fleet at that time, he gradually built his own<br />

large, steel-hulled shrimp fleet, all equipped<br />

with the latest sonar technology to locate the<br />

tasty crustaceans. In 1969 he expanded from<br />

shrimp harvesting into importing, marketing,<br />

and distributing shrimp products under the<br />

Campeche Seafood Products banner.<br />

In 1980 Goga’s son, Gregory, joined the family<br />

business, concentrating on the management of<br />

the fleet. Son Ivo J. Goga came on board in<br />

1982 to work in the sales, distribution, and<br />

importation divisions of Campeche Seafood. In<br />

1987 the company began processing domestic<br />

shrimp under the label “Texas Treasure” to<br />

complement their prestigious Mexican shrimp<br />

brands. “Our success is a tribute to our dedicated<br />

employees and the loyal fleet owners who<br />

take pride in delivering exceptional quality<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

340


shrimp consistently,” says Ivo J. Goga. He calls<br />

the shrimp producers from the ports of<br />

Brownsville, Port Isabel, and Palacios, the<br />

“backbone of our company.”<br />

Today Campeche Seafood continues to<br />

build the image of Gulf shrimp. Its qualityoriented<br />

product mix offers customers a broad<br />

spectrum of exciting menu choices. The<br />

company is also the exclusive importer of<br />

Mexican shrimp from processing plants in the<br />

coastal cities of Campeche, Ciudad del<br />

Carmen, and Tampico. Campeche Seafood<br />

markets its brands to wholesale distributors,<br />

restaurant chains, and retail grocery chains<br />

nationwide. The company uses strategically<br />

located cold storage warehouses from which<br />

it ships graded, packaged shrimp to meet<br />

customer demand.<br />

Ivo J. Goga became president of Campeche<br />

Seafood Products in 1986, following his father’s<br />

death. Gregory Goga leads the commercial<br />

fishing division while sister Marie assists in<br />

sales and contributes her skills as a computer<br />

analyst. The Goga family is also an original<br />

stockholder in Port Isabel-based Texas Pack,<br />

one of the largest shrimp processing plants in<br />

the United States.<br />

Today the Texas shrimp industry is a $600<br />

million business creating 30,000 full-time<br />

jobs and $327 million in annual payroll.<br />

Over one hundred businesses in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> are directly involved in the<br />

shrimp industry. The local economic impact<br />

is conservatively estimated to be in excess of<br />

$100 million.<br />

Consistent with the company’s desire to give<br />

back to the community, Campeche Seafood is a<br />

principal supporter of the Brownsville<br />

“Blessing of the Fleet and Shrimp Fiesta” held<br />

each June prior to the opening of the Texas<br />

Gulf shrimp season. The company has also<br />

been deeply involved in bi-national sea turtle<br />

conservation efforts that are concentrated on<br />

nesting grounds in Rancho Nuevo, Mexico.<br />

The Texas Special Olympics, the National<br />

Fisheries Institute Scholarship Fund, and the<br />

Gladys Porter Zoo are also beneficiaries of<br />

Campeche Seafood’s community involvement.<br />

Campeche Seafood remains first and<br />

foremost a family business. As U.S. per capita<br />

consumption of shrimp rises, Campeche<br />

Seafood Products Inc. looks forward to<br />

providing more quality seafood from the<br />

Gulf’s pristine waters to the delight of the<br />

American consumer.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Texas shrimp trawlers located<br />

dockside at the Brownsville Shrimp Basin.<br />

Top, left: The Don Ivo shrimp trawler<br />

fishing off the Bay of Campeche was one of<br />

family’s first vessels from the 1950s.<br />

Bottom, right: Robert Goga, chef and owner<br />

of The Lantern Grill restaurant on South<br />

Padre Island, serving some patrons<br />

delectable shrimp dishes from the menu.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

341


WELLS FARGO<br />

✧<br />

James S. Scott, president and managing<br />

officer of Wells Fargo Bank.<br />

No matter how you look at it, the Wells<br />

Fargo Bank in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> has a<br />

long, proud history. Operating through a<br />

series of mergers and a number of different<br />

names since 1914, Mercantile Bank celebrated<br />

its eightieth anniversary as one of the largest,<br />

independently owned banks in South Texas.<br />

Throughout the years, this bank, now a<br />

branch of Wells Fargo, has provided<br />

continuous personal commitment, financial<br />

strength and expert service to the people of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, the Coastal Bend, and<br />

northern Mexico.<br />

Known first as State Bank and Trust<br />

Company of Brownsville, the bank has<br />

expanded from its modest beginnings into a<br />

major financial institution. Much of its<br />

success has been due to the bold, visionary<br />

leadership of outstanding businessmen.<br />

Its several name changes have included State<br />

National Bank (1922), First National at<br />

Brownsville (1937), Bank of the Southwest<br />

(1972), Mbank (1984), Mercantile Bank (1990),<br />

and now the most historic name of all, Wells<br />

Fargo (1998-). Expanding into both Harlingen<br />

and Corpus Christi in the 1990s, the bank has<br />

continued to grow, with its assets increasing<br />

from its original $60,000 to over $700 million<br />

by the time of its eightieth birthday.<br />

Its purchase in 1998 by Wells Fargo allied<br />

the bank with a company noted over a<br />

century and a half for its commitment to<br />

safeguarding the assets entrusted to its care.<br />

In the 1800s Wells Fargo & Company<br />

transported gold, payrolls, financial<br />

documents, mail and other valuables across<br />

the Great Plains to the coast. The company’s<br />

twenty-first century responsibility, which<br />

centers on moving money, investments,<br />

commodities and people both between and<br />

beyond the country’s coasts, involves a<br />

slightly different “frontier” than was originally<br />

conceived, but the commitment to safety and<br />

top quality service remain in the forefront.<br />

Like the joining of its history with that of<br />

Mercantile Bank, Wells Fargo’s logo—an oldfashioned<br />

horse-drawn stagecoach like that it<br />

once used to transport valuables, with a<br />

contemporary color scheme of red and<br />

yellow—is representative of a proud history<br />

and a bright future.<br />

The Wells Fargo stagecoaches, which once<br />

carried gold, now market the corporate image<br />

of stability and tradition, as well as serving as<br />

a reminder that the company has been a part<br />

of the financial world since 1852, when<br />

Henry Wells and William G. Fargo decided to<br />

apply in the West a business service idea they<br />

had pioneered in the East. Their concept was<br />

a delivery service for businessmen who could<br />

not afford to leave their homes and businesses<br />

to move money or information from one place<br />

to another. Serving as trusted agent for these<br />

businesses, Wells and Fargo had established<br />

The American Express Company in 1850 for<br />

deliveries in the East and Midwest. In 1852,<br />

when the California Gold Rush was at its<br />

height, they and other partners invested in a<br />

joint stock association called Wells, Fargo &<br />

Company to provide an express and banking<br />

business in the West.<br />

The express business served primarily as a<br />

communications and transportation system to<br />

move money safely, while the banking<br />

business centered on buying and selling gold,<br />

converting it into coins with a standard value,<br />

and then into financial instruments such as<br />

checks, certificates of deposit, and bills of<br />

exchange. The transportation business was<br />

substantially lost with consolidation of the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

342


✧<br />

Wells Fargo Bank Texas, N.A., Brownsville<br />

downtown branch.<br />

federal mail service during World War I, and<br />

Wells Fargo subsequently concentrated on<br />

building its commercial banking business in<br />

the West.<br />

Establishment of Northwestern National<br />

Bank of Minneapolis in 1872 through investors<br />

including John Pillsbury, representing local<br />

investors, and investors representing railroad<br />

interests was instrumental in development of<br />

the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul<br />

into the “flour capital” of the world. An<br />

agricultural depression in the 1920s led to the<br />

closing of many local banks and threats by<br />

Eastern interests to buy a majority interest in<br />

Midwestern community banks, leading to<br />

establishment of a regional banking group set<br />

up under a holding company called Northwest<br />

Bancorporation. Generally called Banco, it<br />

grew dramatically, becoming Norwest<br />

Corporation in 1982, and a part of the Wells<br />

Fargo “family tree” through mergers in 1999.<br />

Corporate responsibility has been a key<br />

factor in the business and mission of Wells<br />

Fargo. “Community commitment” is a<br />

strategic, integrated effort that draws on<br />

business units throughout the bank. In<br />

addition to using corporate resources for<br />

revitalization of the communities the bank<br />

serves, Wells Fargo also provides<br />

opportunities for its employees to contribute<br />

their talents for the good of the communities<br />

where they live. The bank also actively invests<br />

in nonprofit groups engaged in community<br />

development. The ultimate goal in all of these<br />

activities is to build relationships of value and<br />

endurance with the communities. By doing<br />

so, Wells Fargo enhances the company’s<br />

prospects for long-term success.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

343


PAYNE DEALER GROUP/WESLACO MOTORS<br />

✧<br />

Bud and Jimmy Payne become “actors” for<br />

their “Regardless” commercials.<br />

“Regardless!”<br />

When South Texas television viewers hear<br />

the familiar “Regardless,” they know Bud<br />

and Jimmy Payne are clowning around in<br />

commercials for the Payne Dealer Group,<br />

dressed as pilgrims, old prospectors, or<br />

dozens of other characters. They end their<br />

commercials with an offer of a one hundred<br />

dollar bill to anyone who can beat their<br />

prices—Regardless!<br />

However, regardless of their on-screen<br />

antics, the brothers turn serious when they talk<br />

about the auto dealership started by their father,<br />

E. J. Payne, in 1949, and how they follow his<br />

tradition of bringing a positive attitude to both<br />

business and community service.<br />

Ed Payne was born in a one-room home in<br />

Canada and raised in southern Illinois, where<br />

his father was a Ford dealer. After graduating<br />

from the University of Illinois at the<br />

beginning of World War II, Ed came to the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> for fighter pilot training<br />

at the Harlingen Air Base. While in the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

he met and later married Margery Medley of<br />

Harlingen. Soon he went overseas with the<br />

Eighty-fifth Fighter Squadron and flew 104<br />

missions in a P-47 Thunderbolt in North<br />

Africa, Italy and Austria before the war ended.<br />

After the war, the Paynes returned to the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, where he worked for his<br />

brother-in-law, Jim Medley, at Medley Ford in<br />

Weslaco until he purchased K. P. Caskey<br />

Dodge, and Ed Payne Motors was on its way. At<br />

first it was a four-man operation, with Manuel<br />

“Shorty” Garza as his right-hand man. They<br />

sold thirteen cars that first year, as they became<br />

known for their outstanding customer service.<br />

In 1957 before the expressway was built,<br />

Ed Payne Motors moved to its Business 83<br />

location, then surrounded by orchards and<br />

farmland. In the 1950s, Ed Payne offered only<br />

Dodge cars and trucks.<br />

“We grew up, from the age of nine or ten,<br />

dusting parts bins to working on the wash rack,<br />

pretty much all through the dealership,” Bud<br />

Payne said. “We drove trucks from Detroit<br />

when we were fourteen years old. You drive<br />

one, with two other big trucks and a pickup<br />

riding ‘piggyback.’”<br />

After completing their education at the<br />

University of Texas, Austin, sons E. M. “Bud”<br />

and Jimmy Payne joined their father at Ed Payne<br />

Motors, and in 1975, Ed sold the dealership to<br />

his sons. He stayed on for several years to assist<br />

them while he pursued farming and ranching<br />

interests, in which he is still active.<br />

Soon the brothers looked for opportunities<br />

to grow. In 1980 they made their first expansion<br />

by purchasing Weslaco Motors, which was<br />

established in 1935. This became their flagship<br />

dealership when it relocated by the Expressway,<br />

representing Chevrolet, Chevrolet Truck, GMC<br />

Truck, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, and also<br />

Mitsubishi-Fuso Trucks.<br />

The company grew, one dealership at a<br />

time. Payne Mitsubishi in Weslaco opened in<br />

1989 and Ed Payne Jeep-Mitsubishi in 1990.<br />

Payne Lincoln-Mercury-Volkswagen-Suzuki in<br />

Brownsville opened in 1991, and Payne/<br />

Weslaco Ford-Mercury opened in 1992.<br />

The seventh and newest Payne dealership,<br />

Payne Volkswagen-Mitsubishi in Mission,<br />

celebrated its grand opening in May 1998<br />

with an invasion of the new Volkwagen Beetle.<br />

“It’s wonderful to see that the automobile<br />

industry has been able to hold on to what was<br />

once an American institution, the family-owned<br />

business,” said Texas Automobile Dealers<br />

Association President Gene Fondren when he<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

344


presented a special plaque to the Payne Dealer<br />

Group at the fiftieth anniversary celebration of<br />

Ed Payne Motors in November 1999. “Texas car<br />

and truck owners still rely on the family and<br />

locally owned franchised dealerships.”<br />

The original dealership now sells Chrysler,<br />

Plymouth and Dodge vehicles, and another<br />

Ed Payne Dodge located on the Expressway<br />

specializes in Dodge Trucks and Jeeps.<br />

During the anniversary celebration, Jimmy<br />

Payne said, “Fifty years ago my dad opened a<br />

car dealership in downtown Weslaco selling<br />

Dodge trucks and cars. He knew if you treated<br />

folks fairly and gave them a great product,<br />

they’d always come back. We also have a<br />

quality full service and parts department to<br />

service our customers after the sale.”<br />

Their service departments are a vital part of<br />

all of the Payne dealerships. Each of the<br />

dealerships has been recognized for outstanding<br />

achievements in automotive sales and service.<br />

“Customer satisfaction is still our number one<br />

priority,” said Bud and Jimmy. “The mission of<br />

our business is to continuously exceed the<br />

expectations of our customers, our employees,<br />

and our community.”<br />

Bud is now the president of the company,<br />

with his brother Jimmy serving as vice president.<br />

Despite the many demands of the business,<br />

community service is still a high priority<br />

for Bud and Jimmy, just as it was for their<br />

father. “We feel we need to give back to the<br />

community,” they said.<br />

And give back they have. They led a drive to<br />

provide safety equipment for the Weslaco Police<br />

Department when they learned the police force<br />

was in need of safety reflection vests and other<br />

accessories. They donated $4,000 for safety<br />

equipment, plus providing an automobile for<br />

the School District’s D.A.R.E. program, plus<br />

many other donations.<br />

Bud has served on the Knapp Medical Center<br />

board and was 1999 chairman of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Partnership Board of Directors. He is<br />

currently serving on the board of directors for<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong> Land Fund, Weslaco Development<br />

Committee, and Alamo Bank of Texas. He is on<br />

the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Economic<br />

Development Council and was one of the<br />

founding fathers of the <strong>Valley</strong> Nature Center.<br />

Jimmy is currently the president of the<br />

South Texas Dodge Advertising Association.<br />

He is on the advisory board of the Texas<br />

International Fishing Tournament, the<br />

Planning and Zoning Board of Progreso Lakes,<br />

and is a former director of the <strong>Valley</strong> Auto<br />

Dealers Association.<br />

“We feel like the place we were born and<br />

raised is extremely important, and very much<br />

a part of our lives,” said Bud. “We are devoted<br />

to trying to make the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> a<br />

better place and we give thanks to God for His<br />

grace in our family.”<br />

So the next time you see the Payne boys<br />

cutting up on television, remember that offscreen<br />

they are serious businessmen and major<br />

contributors to the civic and community life of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Regardless!<br />

✧<br />

Above: Weslaco Motors, established in<br />

1935, became part of the Payne Dealer<br />

Group in 1980.<br />

Below: When Ed Payne Motors celebrated<br />

its 50th Anniversary in November 1999,<br />

Texas Automobile Dealers Association<br />

President Gene Fondren presented a special<br />

plaque to Ed, Bud and Jimmy Payne. The<br />

Paynes are surrounded by some of the more<br />

than four hundred employees of the seven<br />

Payne dealerships over the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

345


VALLEY CO-OP<br />

OIL MILL<br />

✧<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill Staff<br />

Hollis G. Sullivan, president &<br />

general manager<br />

Gene Taubert, pesticide/chemical<br />

manager<br />

Bobby Crum, sales manager<br />

Dennis Easley, plant superintendent<br />

Lou Etta Macomb, chemical division<br />

office manager<br />

Dion Fernandez, executive assistant<br />

The early days (c. 1946) at <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op<br />

Mill before the oil mill was built (below)<br />

and the Co-op today (facing page).<br />

After cotton gins separate fluffy cotton<br />

bolls from the cottonseed, about ten percent<br />

of the lint still clings to the seed. South Texas<br />

gins ship their cottonseed to <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil<br />

Mill in Harlingen to finish the job. By the time<br />

the Co-op has completed the process, every<br />

part has been made into a saleable product:<br />

cottonseed meal, oil, linters, and hulls.<br />

Organized as a cooperative association in<br />

September 1946 by seven member cotton<br />

gins, <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill built a cottonseed<br />

sterilizer in order to ship cottonseed outside<br />

the pink bollworm quarantine area. The mill<br />

processed 16,999 tons of seed its first season.<br />

The sterilizer was such a success that in 1951<br />

the Co-op financed the opening of a million<br />

dollar cotton oil mill on Wilson Road. By that<br />

time, the Co-op had grown to fourteen member<br />

cotton gins. The increased membership enabled<br />

the oil mill to build storage houses for raw<br />

cottonseed and houses for cottonseed meal, lint,<br />

and hulls. Over the years, <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill,<br />

also known as Valco, acquired more crushing<br />

equipment and seed storage houses. In a major<br />

expansion in 1980, new delinting, refinery, and<br />

solvent extraction equipment were added,<br />

followed later by bale presses and a meal storage<br />

building. In 1999 Valco purchased an adjoining<br />

oil mill, increasing total raw cottonseed storage<br />

capacity to 195,000 tons. The Co-op’s growth<br />

continues with two additional foundations<br />

poured in 2000.<br />

Forty years ago, <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> farmers<br />

were growing 500,000 acres of cotton. Now the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s maximum acreage is about 225,000. To<br />

keep processing volume up, Valco expanded its<br />

procurement area, buying cottonseed from the<br />

Coastal Bend, Upper Coast, and Winter<br />

Gardens areas. In fact the Co-op is pulling<br />

cottonseed from a larger geographic region than<br />

any other Texas oil mill. Approximately forty<br />

percent of the cottonseed it receives today<br />

comes from the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Cottonseed generates two primary<br />

products, cottonseed oil and cottonseed meal,<br />

but none of the byproducts of making meal<br />

and oil go to waste.<br />

Valco receives seed deliveries throughout the<br />

cotton harvest from mid-July to October. Thirty<br />

temporary employees augment the year-round<br />

workforce of eighty-nine during this season as<br />

the mill works day and night. On peak days<br />

during the season, the mill receives two hundred<br />

trucks filled with cottonseed, or five thousand<br />

tons. Each batch is quality tested before being<br />

unloaded into enclosed storage houses.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

346


✧<br />

2000-2001 <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill<br />

Board of Directors &<br />

Gins Represented<br />

Valco processes 15,000 tons of cottonseed<br />

monthly, eleven months of the year. First,<br />

seeds are taken from dry storage to be cleaned<br />

and delinted. Delinting the seed produces<br />

enough cotton to make 150 to 180 bales daily.<br />

This short staple lint falls into two grades. The<br />

better lint is sold domestically and abroad for<br />

use in currency, high-grade bond paper,<br />

bedding and personal hygiene products. The<br />

balance of the short staple cotton is used in<br />

thousands of products requiring pure cellulose<br />

or fiber. The fiber is processed into everything<br />

from synthetic orange juice pulp and sausage<br />

casings to binders for pharmaceutical tablets<br />

and parts of molded products like steering<br />

wheels and toothbrush handles.<br />

Next in the process, the cottonseeds are<br />

cracked, with the hull byproduct sold to feed<br />

lots as a filler. Then the seeds are cooked,<br />

rolled flat and moved to the solvent plant for<br />

separating the oil from meal.<br />

Cottonseed oil is the most valuable of<br />

Valco’s products. One ton of cottonseed<br />

produces 325 pounds of oil. Each day the mill<br />

squeezes out 150,000 pounds of vegetable oil,<br />

equivalent to a tanker load. Most of the prime,<br />

summer yellow oil is destined for human<br />

consumption, once it has been further tested,<br />

refined, deodorized, bleached, and winterized.<br />

Because of its purity of flavor and long shelf<br />

life, cottonseed oil remains one of the top<br />

three vegetable oils in the U.S.<br />

A ton of cottonseed produces 900 pounds<br />

of cottonseed meal. The high protein meal can<br />

be used as is or formed into pellets, flakes, or<br />

cakes to be fed to animals as varied as cattle<br />

and catfish. The meal is sold on both sides of<br />

the border.<br />

“Mexico is a tremendous trading partner<br />

of this mill. We bring in raw materials,<br />

process them, and ship the product south,”<br />

says Hollis Sullivan, Valco’s president and<br />

general manager since 1978.<br />

“The superior quality of the meal has<br />

helped to develop clients in Mexico.”<br />

As a Co-operative, Valco began supplying<br />

agricultural chemicals to its members in 1962<br />

to provide a reliable supply of quality<br />

products. In 1996 Valco completed<br />

construction of a bulk fertilizer storage facility<br />

at the Port of Harlingen.<br />

Today twenty-two member gins are<br />

represented on <strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill’s Board<br />

of Directors.<br />

“A good board of directors points us in the<br />

right direction,” Sullivan says. That direction<br />

includes possibly building a refinery to further<br />

process cottonseed oil into a finished product<br />

and the potential to expand either storage or<br />

crushing facilities to increase per day processing.<br />

Leonard Simmons, chairman<br />

Rangerville Co-op<br />

Bobby Sparks, vice chairman<br />

Queen City Co-op<br />

Don Ocker, secretary/treasurer<br />

Chapman Ranch Co-op<br />

O. D. Bell<br />

Bayside Richardson Co-op<br />

Robert Walsdorf<br />

Brownsville Co-op<br />

Sidney Beard<br />

Damon Farmers Co-op<br />

Jimmie Barosh<br />

Danevang Farmers Co-op<br />

Stanley Webb III<br />

Ed Cot Co-op<br />

Daryl Kutach<br />

Farmers Co-op, East Bernard<br />

Kenneth McKamey<br />

Gregory Co-op<br />

Jerry Wheaton<br />

Harlingen Cotton Co-op<br />

Jeff Yaklin<br />

Gulf Coast Co-op<br />

Donald Phillipp<br />

La Feria Co-op<br />

Jimmy Ellington<br />

Lyford Co-op<br />

L. E. Morris<br />

Midway Co-op<br />

Andrew Hahn<br />

Moreman Community Gin<br />

J. H. Holcomb<br />

Progreso Co-op<br />

D. B. Horne<br />

Smith Gin Co-op<br />

Jerry Rozsypal<br />

Vanderbilt Farmers Co-op<br />

H. R. Calvin, Jr.<br />

Willacy Co-op<br />

L. H. Laffere<br />

Winter Garden Co-op<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

347


RIOS OF<br />

MERCEDES<br />

✧<br />

Trainor Evans and J. P. “Pat” Moody guide<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes.<br />

“It’s not just that our boots are handmade—it’s<br />

whose hands made them.”<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes began its tradition of<br />

making quality, handmade boots in 1853 when<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong>s family of General Teran, Mexico,<br />

became known for the art of bootmaking.<br />

Around the turn of the century, they moved their<br />

shop to Texas’ <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and continued<br />

perfecting their craft. When the last of the <strong>Rio</strong>s<br />

bootmakers, Zeferino, retired, he sold the family<br />

business, and the experienced craftsmen who<br />

had made <strong>Rio</strong>s boots famous continued to make<br />

quality boots for the new owners. During this<br />

period, Joe M. Evans, who brought in Trainor<br />

Evans to assist him, ably managed the company.<br />

“When we bought this business in 1975, we<br />

saw that all of the bootmakers were in their late<br />

fifties,” said Trainor Evans, CEO of <strong>Rio</strong>s. “We<br />

realized that in six years we would be out of<br />

business unless we trained new craftsmen. We<br />

invited those longtime workers to bring in sons<br />

or nephews as apprentices to sit on the bench<br />

beside them and learn the bootmaking craft. It<br />

worked. Now the average age of our bootmakers<br />

is in the low thirties, and we continue to train<br />

young workers.”<br />

Evans brings an unusual combination to<br />

the business—a ranching background in New<br />

Mexico and university education in Mexico<br />

City. His fluency in Spanish and knowledge of<br />

the people and their culture are valuable<br />

assets in dealing with a largely Hispanic<br />

workforce. It also helps during his trips to<br />

Latin American countries to buy fine leathers.<br />

J. P. “Pat” Moody, president, joined <strong>Rio</strong>s in<br />

1983 from an agricultural, banking and retail<br />

background to work with operations and sales.<br />

He is now a partner. Today, <strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes,<br />

under the guidance of Evans and Moody, still<br />

makes boots in much the same way the <strong>Rio</strong>s<br />

family did—by hand, with an assist from<br />

technology in two of the processes. They moved<br />

into new facilities at the Mercedes Industrial<br />

Park in mid-2000, where their craftsmen work<br />

in spacious, clean, temperature-controlled<br />

surroundings with the latest equipment.<br />

Evans and Moody studied the way boots are<br />

made by hand and broke it up into about thirty<br />

processes. This allows them to make more boots<br />

and make them better than in a small shop,<br />

since the craftsmen get skilled in that one step.<br />

Their boots are made of all leather. Though<br />

they use leathers from the U.S. and Mexico<br />

when available, <strong>Rio</strong>s imports many of its fine<br />

leathers from other countries. Australian<br />

kangaroo is tanned in Italy; ostrich leather<br />

comes from Zimbabwe and South Africa;<br />

American alligator is tanned in France; elephant<br />

leather comes from Zimbabwe and Botswana;<br />

and cape buffalo and wildebeest leathers are<br />

imported from Botswana.<br />

The bootmaking process begins in the<br />

cutting room. Formerly painstakingly done by<br />

hand, now that process is done with a click of<br />

a hydraulic cutting machine, which drops<br />

onto open dies. A job that once took hours to<br />

complete is now done in a few minutes.<br />

Technology also has streamlined the<br />

decorative stitching process.<br />

“The fancy stitching is a paradox,” said<br />

Evans. “I have always thought there was nothing<br />

a man couldn’t do better than a machine, but we<br />

were proven wrong in this instance. We found a<br />

computerized robot that would do a better job<br />

of decorative stitching on the shaft of the boot<br />

than it could be done by hand. At one time we<br />

had thirty men doing our fancy stitching in<br />

Mexico. Now we have only three stitchers in the<br />

U.S. Those thirty men were freed up to make<br />

other products at another plant. That shoe<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

348


manufacturing plant in Mexico has grown to<br />

more than 150 employees, so this is where a<br />

machine actually added jobs in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in both Texas and Mexico.”<br />

The rest of the process is done by hand.<br />

Sewing the pieces together, the linings, soles,<br />

welting, heels, and other procedures are<br />

carefully done by <strong>Rio</strong>s artisans, whose attention<br />

to detail comes from the heart and years of<br />

experience. A last shapes the vamp to fit the foot<br />

of its future wearer. <strong>Rio</strong>s makes boots in sizes<br />

4AAA to 16EEEE in eight toe shapes, so their<br />

warehouse has rows upon rows of lasts, one for<br />

each size, width, and toe shape.<br />

The leather box toe between the vamp and<br />

vamp lining is shaped, sculpted, and sanded.<br />

Then the leather is pulled down over it to<br />

form a perfectly shaped toe.<br />

Small lemonwood pegs are used to connect<br />

the sole to the boot. Every pair of boots is<br />

pegged from the ball of the foot back to where<br />

the heel is nailed onto the boot. This pegging is<br />

important if a boot gets wet, as the lemonwood<br />

pegs will swell up as rapidly as the leather sole<br />

does and stay sealed tightly to the arch.<br />

The heels are made of stacked sole leather<br />

and finished to match the sole to look like one<br />

piece of leather. Since people who buy good<br />

boots will take them off the shelf and look at<br />

the bottom, special attention is given to make<br />

the bottom look as pretty as the top.<br />

“We buy all of our insoles, outsoles, heel<br />

counters, box toes, and shank covers from the<br />

best suppliers available,” said Moody. “Each is<br />

cut for the right fiber length and durability. They<br />

cost a little more, but they’re worth it. Producing<br />

well-made boots takes the best materials, skilled<br />

craftsmanship, and lots of time. We make boots<br />

that look good, fit well, and last long.”<br />

The hands that make the handmade boot take<br />

five times longer than average bootmakers. With<br />

so much hand labor and expensive materials,<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s boots are not cheap, but a good pair of boots<br />

lasts for years. Though <strong>Rio</strong>s makes some boots<br />

for individuals on special order, most are sold<br />

wholesale through western shops and specialty<br />

stores where proper fitting can be assured.<br />

A companion firm, the Anderson Bean Boot<br />

Company, was started in 1988 and occupies<br />

an adjacent building in the Mercedes Industrial<br />

Park. The owners of <strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes Handmade<br />

Boots created it to make available a high quality,<br />

all-leather western boot that would fall in the<br />

medium price range. Anderson Bean has a full<br />

line of boots for every purpose, built with the<br />

comfort and style of a traditional handmade boot<br />

at an affordable price.<br />

Anderson Bean Boot Company also produces<br />

Olathe Boots for the working cowboy. Olathe<br />

traces its roots to the late 1800s, when C. H.<br />

Hyer began making functional everyday boots<br />

for cowboys in the Olathe, Kansas area where<br />

trail drives ended at that time. Many of those trail<br />

drives began in deep South Texas near where<br />

Olathe Boots are now made.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong>s complex on Expressway 83 just east<br />

of Mercedes also has an outlet store for those<br />

boots that fall a stitch short of passing inspection.<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes and Anderson Bean<br />

provide employment for over one hundred<br />

people, many of whom have been with them for<br />

several decades. “Take these men that we have<br />

now and those coming up, and they should<br />

keep us in business for a long time, I would<br />

hope,” said Evans.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Adan Ruiz operates the<br />

computerized stitching machine, one of<br />

only two processes no longer done by hand<br />

at <strong>Rio</strong>s.<br />

Below: Felipe Zamora makes leather box<br />

toes, a distinctive feature of boots made by<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

349


✧<br />

Above: Marvin Conner (left) and William<br />

Love Hardee (right).<br />

Below: The fishing vessel Captain Will,<br />

named after Sea Garden Sales founder<br />

William Hardee.<br />

SEA GARDEN SALES<br />

In February 1950 William Love Hardee<br />

moved his family and fishing fleet from<br />

Fernandina Beach, Florida, to Brownsville,<br />

Texas, because the once plentiful shrimp of the<br />

Atlantic and Gulf Coast regions were migrating<br />

to the southern part of the Gulf of Mexico.<br />

Hardee, a man of vision and enterprise took<br />

opportunities as they arose and so became a<br />

pioneer of the new South Texas shrimp industry.<br />

In Brownsville’s early days, shrimp boats<br />

docked at the deep water Port of Brownsville.<br />

Growing congestion at the port forced the<br />

Brownsville Navigation District to issue bonds to<br />

allow the dredging of the Shrimp Basin, a<br />

docking area for the shrimp fleet just off the<br />

Brownsville Ship Channel. The Shrimp Basin<br />

opened in 1953 and so did Will Hardee’s marine<br />

supply business, Sea Garden Sales Company.<br />

This company provided the shrimping fleet with<br />

everything necessary for operating their boats.<br />

The marine supply business prospered as the<br />

region’s shrimp fleet grew to over 200 boats,<br />

including Hardee’s own fleet of 35 vessels.<br />

In 1960 Marvin Conner, soon to be Hardee’s<br />

son-in-law, joined the business. Soon after, Sea<br />

Garden opened a facility in Harlingen that sold<br />

a wider range of products including farming,<br />

ranching and industrial supplies. In 1965 the<br />

Hardee team established Southern Shipbuilding,<br />

which turned out offshore steel-hulled vessels at<br />

the shrimp basin. The first boats, which cost<br />

$80,000, were put into service as oil crew boats<br />

and as well as shrimp boats.<br />

The underserved shrimp processing market<br />

also caught Hardee’s attention in the early<br />

1960s. He opened Seaside Refrigeration in<br />

Brownsville and operated it for about ten years<br />

until it was sold. The family made another<br />

shrimping-related acquisition in 1965, Bayside<br />

Net and Twine. Initially the net making<br />

company had only two small net making<br />

machines, turning out cotton nets. The new<br />

owners enlarged the facility so that today ten<br />

large netting machines make nylon and Spectra<br />

netting sold around the world. For Gulf Coast<br />

clients, Bayside turns out shrimp trawls and<br />

turtle exclusion devices. Bayside also knits<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

350


custom nets for the sports world as well as<br />

special nets used by U.S. armed forces.<br />

The 1970s brought Sea Garden Sales new<br />

challenges and opportunities. With changes in<br />

the shrimp industry such as the phase-out of<br />

shrimping permits in Mexican waters, Hardee<br />

and Conner decided to get out of the shrimp<br />

catch business and divested themselves of their<br />

shrimp fleet. Their contacts round the world<br />

through Southern Shipbuilding allowed them to<br />

sell off the fleet to fishermen in New Guinea,<br />

Alaska, Bahrain and New England. Only the<br />

Captain Will, now docked in front of Sea<br />

Gardens’ headquarters, remains from its busy<br />

fleet. Diversifying further from marine supplies,<br />

Sea Garden Sales added a steel warehouse to<br />

their Shrimp Basin facility. Manufacturers and<br />

fabricators who had relied on Sea Garden for<br />

industrial supplies were now able to order steel<br />

plate, tubing, and pipe locally for rapid service.<br />

The company continued to grow, and in 1990<br />

Hardee’s eldest grandson, Bill Conner, brought<br />

his engineering knowledge in the business. In<br />

1994, a second grandson, Dean Conner, joined<br />

the Sea Garden team, becoming the director of<br />

marketing and sales. By 1995 Sea Garden’s<br />

business had shifted to the point where fifty<br />

percent of its revenue came from industrial sales.<br />

The industrial supply division markets<br />

exclusively to <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> customers. On<br />

the other hand, the market for marine supplies,<br />

which has remained steady, now stretches across<br />

the U.S., Mexico, and South America. In 2001<br />

Sea Garden Sales moved into the Florida<br />

market, opening a marine supply business<br />

located in Jacksonville, Florida.<br />

In 1999 Sea Garden opened a retail and<br />

wholesale industrial supply store in Pharr,<br />

providing the company a strategic spread<br />

across the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Recognizing the<br />

direction of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s growth, Sea Garden<br />

Sales is expanding into structural steel<br />

fabrication and has plans to construct a plant<br />

and new store in Harlingen.<br />

Marvin Conner took over leadership of Sea<br />

Garden Sales Company and the family’s<br />

enterprises on Will Hardee’s death in 1988.<br />

When his sons Bill and Dean Conner joined the<br />

company, they brought additional leadership to<br />

the diversified company. The family-owned and<br />

family-run business has for fifty years been an<br />

active participant in the growth of the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, and it continues to be at the<br />

forefront of development in the border region.<br />

Good service is the nucleus around which the<br />

business was established and good service is at<br />

the core of Sea Garden today. The Sea Garden<br />

family and their dedicated employees look<br />

forward to offering customers the latest<br />

advances in both marine and industrial<br />

supplies. How proud Will Hardee would be to<br />

see that his family has taken his dream from the<br />

1950s into the twenty-first century.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Marvin Conner (center) and his<br />

sons, Dean (left) and Bill (right), the third<br />

generation of the family involved in Sea<br />

Garden Sales.<br />

Below: Sea Garden Sales’ steel distribution<br />

warehouse in Pharr, Texas.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

351


WALLACE<br />

BOUDREAUX,<br />

THE SHRIMP<br />

KING OF<br />

TEXAS<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Enola B.<br />

Below: Twin City Shrimp Co. founder<br />

Wallace Boudreaux and wife, Enola.<br />

After more than fifty years in Texas, the<br />

Cajun accent and daily helping of rice and<br />

beans still peg Wallace Boudreaux as a native of<br />

St. Charles, Louisiana. He is the oldest son and<br />

second born of the nine children of Arnold and<br />

Lydia Breaux Boudreaux. The Boudreaux<br />

family farmed and worked in sugarcane fields<br />

near Houma, Louisiana. Wallace worked with<br />

his dad to get enough food for the family, so<br />

there was no time for schooling for him or<br />

much money to buy school clothes for the<br />

younger children. But young Wallace had a<br />

friend who owned shoes, dressed well and<br />

worked on a shrimp boat. Inspired at age<br />

fourteen, he left his family and began his<br />

education as a shrimper’s helper. Quick to<br />

learn and lead, Wallace Boudreaux was made<br />

captain of a shrimp boat when he was sixteen.<br />

At the packing plant where he unloaded his<br />

shrimp, Wallace Boudreaux met Enola Morgan,<br />

daughter of Henry and Zelma Solar Morgan.<br />

Because of the unpredictable timing of the<br />

shrimp catch, Wallace and Enola chose to be<br />

married on Christmas Eve 1944. He promised<br />

his bride to spend every anniversary and<br />

Christmas with her and their children, and, for<br />

fifty-six years he has kept that promise.<br />

By 1948, carefully saving his money,<br />

Captain Wallace made a $4,500 for a down<br />

payment on his first boat and financed the<br />

balance of $18,500. The trawler was named<br />

Carlette Ann after their first child. Around<br />

that time, he joined Twin City Shrimp<br />

Company in Berwick, just across the<br />

Atchafalya River from Morgan City, Louisiana.<br />

The next year, with shrimp thinning and oil<br />

exploration seismographers disturbing the<br />

Louisiana shrimp grounds, he decided to<br />

shrimp on a trial basis out of Port Isabel,<br />

Texas, where the shrimp were reported to be<br />

more abundant. That one season was so<br />

profitable that the Boudreaux family and Twin<br />

City Shrimp Company permanently relocated<br />

to Port Isabel.<br />

At one time Captain Wallace owned nine<br />

shrimp boats, most of them named for family<br />

members: W. J. Jr. , for son Wallace, Jr. and<br />

Penny Michael, for daughter Penny Boudreaux<br />

Loupe and son Michael. Shrimpers were<br />

named after grandchildren: Virginia Lynn,<br />

Cathy Ann, Rodney, Bobby, and KDB for Kalei,<br />

Dawn, and Brandy. A devout Catholic family,<br />

they named one boat Vatican and the others<br />

Golden Star and Flaming Star.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

352


In 1963 Wallace Boudreaux stopped going<br />

out with the boats since he found it too difficult<br />

to manage a large business while out in the<br />

middle of the Gulf of Mexico. He started<br />

Fisherman Repair Shop in Port Isabel, aided by<br />

his right-hand man Bobby Bennett and<br />

carpenter Roberto Garcia Pena. Today the<br />

Boudreaux’s sons Michael and Wallace Jr. and<br />

his sons-in-law Howard Hebert and Bobby<br />

Loupe maintain the docks and the Twin City<br />

fleet and daughters Carlette and Penny work<br />

with Michael’s wife Alma in the family’s business<br />

office. First grandson Rodney Hebert has been a<br />

part of the working family since age fourteen.<br />

The queen of the Boudreaux family, Enola, never<br />

played an active part in the company, but she<br />

has been the heart and soul of this close-knit<br />

family. The love of family keeps the children of<br />

Wallace and Enola near. Their parents have been<br />

loving and giving, and the children believe now<br />

is the time to give back to them, if they can.<br />

When Michael Boudreaux began buying<br />

boats, the first was named the Enola B., and the<br />

second Mat B. for grandchildren Michael II,<br />

Adrian, and Tiffany. With the purchase of the<br />

third boat, the Captain Wallace B., the fleet is<br />

complete. But instead of $25,000 that<br />

Boudreaux paid for his first boat in Louisiana,<br />

the trawlers now cost over $500,000.<br />

Other changes have occurred as well.<br />

Wallace Boudreaux recalled his best catch: it<br />

was 1952, and they had twenty thousand<br />

pounds of shrimp in the hold after nine days<br />

and nights at sea. Those days are gone, now<br />

that boats have freezers and can stay out for<br />

two and three months.<br />

As a pioneer of the Texas shrimp fleet,<br />

Wallace Boudreaux worked long hard hours,<br />

maintaining his boats and retaining his boat<br />

captains, some of the best in the Gulf. His<br />

energy, drive and love of his profession have<br />

kept him going when others would have<br />

rested. “I’ll rest when I die,” is the typical<br />

Wallace Boudreaux reply. He served on the<br />

board of the Texas Shrimp Association,<br />

traveling to Washington and Austin to help<br />

form, regulate and manage the multi-million<br />

dollar industry. He is a shareholder in Texas<br />

Pack, a major shrimp packing and storage<br />

plant, and in Hi Seas of Brownsville, a shrimp<br />

brokerage house. He is now sole owner of Twin<br />

City Shrimp Company, guiding his children as<br />

they help him. Wallace Boudreaux’s friend E.<br />

W. Kornegay once described him: “He’s such a<br />

truthful man, always. If he told me the sun isn’t<br />

coming up tomorrow, I’d go buy a flashlight.”<br />

The Boudreaux family welcomes visitors to<br />

their boats at 901 South Shore, Port Isabel.<br />

✧<br />

The Captain Wallace B.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

353


LOCKHEED<br />

MARTIN SPACE<br />

SYSTEMS<br />

COMPANY<br />

✧<br />

Above: Lockheed Martin Space Systems<br />

Company’s Harlingen, Texas facility<br />

comprises 375,000 square feet of<br />

manufacturing, assembly, test and office<br />

space at the south end of the Harlingen<br />

airport. The facility is located with ready<br />

access to air, rail and barge transportation.<br />

Below: The first Atlas III rocket roars off the<br />

launch pad at Cape Canaveral Air Force<br />

Station, Florida on its maiden flight on May<br />

24, 2000.<br />

Lockheed Martin Space Systems Company<br />

is excellence in aerospace structures and<br />

support equipment.<br />

Established in 1987, the Harlingen, Texas,<br />

Operations of Lockheed Martin Space<br />

Systems Company builds key aerospace<br />

structures and support equipment for systems<br />

that are vital to both the burgeoning<br />

international commercial space market and<br />

the defense of the United States. These<br />

programs include the Titan IV—the largest,<br />

most powerful expendable space launch<br />

vehicle in the world; the Atlas family of space<br />

launch vehicles, including the new Atlas III<br />

and Atlas V rockets powered by Russian-built<br />

RD-180 rocket engines; Centaur upper stage<br />

rockets; Athena space launch vehicles; the F-<br />

16 jet fighter; and military and commercial<br />

spacecraft including Lockheed Martin’s<br />

A2100 satellite.<br />

Lockheed Martin Space Systems Company<br />

builds elements for:<br />

• Atlas II, III, and V rockets<br />

• Titan IV rockets<br />

• Athena rockets<br />

• F-16 fighter aircraft<br />

• A2100 commercial satellites<br />

The first Atlas III rocket roared off the<br />

launch pad at Cape Canaveral Air Force<br />

Station, Florida on its maiden flight on May<br />

24, 2000. This flight made history because it<br />

was the first American-built rocket to fly<br />

powered by a Russian-built rocket engine. The<br />

Atlas III is powered by the RD-180 engine,<br />

designed and built by NPO Energomash in<br />

Khimky, Russia. Large elements of the Atlas<br />

rockets are built at Lockheed Martin Space<br />

Systems Company’s Harlingen, Texas facility.<br />

The company builds and launches Atlas<br />

rockets for the United States government and<br />

commercial customers worldwide.<br />

Lockheed Martin assembles huge,<br />

clamshell-like Atlas rocket payload fairing<br />

segments, and then tests them in a vertical<br />

assembly tower to ensure that they will<br />

separate properly at a predetermined time<br />

during the rocket’s flight. These Atlas payload<br />

fairings are 14-feet in diameter and 38-feet<br />

tall. During the first few minutes of the flight<br />

as the Atlas roars through the atmosphere, the<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

354


fairing protects the spacecraft from the heat<br />

and buffeting of aerodynamic forces.<br />

Lockheed Martin’s Harlingen facility<br />

comprises 375,000 square feet of<br />

manufacturing, assembly, test and office space<br />

at the south end of the Harlingen, Texas<br />

airport. The facility is located with ready<br />

access to air, rail and barge transportation.<br />

The employees of Lockheed Martin Space<br />

Systems Company’s Harlingen Operations have<br />

established a solid reputation as an outstanding<br />

provider of dependable, innovative and highquality<br />

structural assemblies at extremely<br />

competitive costs. With headquarters in<br />

Denver, Colorado, Space Systems is one of the<br />

major operating units of the Lockheed Martin<br />

Corporation. Space Systems designs, develops,<br />

tests and manufactures a variety of advanced<br />

technology systems for space and defense. Chief<br />

products include space launch systems, ground<br />

systems, interplanetary spacecraft, other<br />

spacecraft for commercial and government<br />

customers, fleet ballistic missiles and missile<br />

defense systems.<br />

Headquartered in Bethesda, Maryland,<br />

Lockheed Martin is a global enterprise principally<br />

engaged in the research, design, development,<br />

manufacture and integration of advancedtechnology<br />

systems, products and services. The<br />

Corporation employs 140,000 people with core<br />

businesses in systems integration, space,<br />

aeronautics and technology services. Lockheed<br />

Martin had 2000 sales surpassing $25 billion.<br />

The Harlingen Operations facility features<br />

an experienced, skilled and productive<br />

workforce and management team. They have<br />

demonstrated a dedication to achieving<br />

mission success for their customers and have<br />

developed sophisticated technical expertise in<br />

a variety of fabrication and assembly<br />

processes. By forging partnerships with local<br />

institutions of higher education, including the<br />

Texas State Technical College, the company<br />

has developed an impressive continuous<br />

training and education program to maintain<br />

employees’ high level of competence. The<br />

average tenure of the workforce is eleven years<br />

and ninety-five percent of the structural<br />

assemblers are top-level craftsmen.<br />

The Harlingen Operations also receives<br />

outstanding support from key suppliers that<br />

provide precision machining, sheet metal, roll<br />

forming, composite materials, forgings, heat<br />

treatment, and metal finishing. Lockheed<br />

Martin has produced more than three thousand<br />

airplanes, including the F-16, at Air Force<br />

Plant 4 in Fort Worth. The Corporation also<br />

has made considerable contributions to the<br />

Space Age in Houston and continues to be an<br />

integral part of the Texas economic landscape.<br />

Current operations are located in Harlingen, El<br />

Paso, San Antonio, Austin, Dallas/Fort Worth,<br />

and Houston.<br />

✧<br />

Left: The clamshell-like Atlas rocket<br />

payload fairings are 14-feet in diameter<br />

and 38-feet tall.<br />

Below: A structural assembler installs<br />

electrical harnesses on an Atlas rocket<br />

equipment module in the 300,000 class<br />

special clean area. This work is done in a<br />

protected environment to safeguard valuable<br />

satellite payloads from contamination<br />

during flights.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

355


CARDENAS<br />

AUTO GROUP/<br />

DEVELOPMENT<br />

✧<br />

Above: Cardenas Motors, Inc., Brownsville.<br />

Below: Renato and Mary Rose Cardenas.<br />

The Renato Cardenas family has never<br />

questioned the importance of education. At<br />

age eleven, Renato E. Cardenas, an orphan,<br />

moved from Matamoros to Brownsville to live<br />

with his aunt. At eighteen, he left school to<br />

join the U.S. Air Force and serve in the<br />

Korean War Theater. On his return to<br />

Brownsville he earned a GED, enrolled at<br />

Texas Southmost College and graduated with<br />

an A.B. degree. Renato Cardenas and Mary<br />

Rose Arzamendi met through mutual friends<br />

and married in 1955. By that time, Renato<br />

was enrolled at Pan American University in<br />

Edinburg, planning to become a chemist<br />

while he worked full time at a lab.<br />

In 1960 the Cardenases went into<br />

partnership in a Texaco gas station with a<br />

brother-in-law. Renato Cardenas soon became<br />

sole owner of the full-service garage at Third<br />

and East Elizabeth. The couple’s children—<br />

Reba, Elsa, Rick, and Rene, but not the<br />

youngest, Eldarose—remember evenings<br />

spent playing in the office of the gas station<br />

while their parents finished their long days<br />

working side by side, doing the books.<br />

Cardenas occasionally bought cars from<br />

customers and parked them at the gas station<br />

with a “For Sale” sign. That sideline business<br />

thrived and he opened Ray’s Auto Sales on<br />

East Adams and begin selling car insurance<br />

also. In 1971 Renato Cardenas bought <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Buick from Carl Murphy, and Mary Rose<br />

formally joined the business as comptroller.<br />

From its location at Fifth and Elizabeth Street,<br />

Cardenas Motors sold Buick, American<br />

Motors and Jeep. In 1975 Cardenas built a<br />

new dealership showroom and service center<br />

on the Expressway and added GMC, Dodge,<br />

and Isuzu.<br />

Real estate had caught Renato’s interest in<br />

1968 and he started a real estate development<br />

company to develop residential subdivisions. In<br />

1979 the venture was incorporated as Cardenas<br />

Development Co., Inc. From Brownsville to<br />

Rancho Viejo and Harlingen the company has<br />

participated in numerous housing projects:<br />

Roosevelt Estates, Isla de Palmas, Rose Gardens,<br />

Rancho Perdido, and Coakley Estates.<br />

While their family and businesses were<br />

growing and prospering, Mary Rose and<br />

Renato Cardenas were becoming deeply<br />

involved in civic issues, primarily educational<br />

and health questions that were confronting<br />

their community. Renato served on<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

356


Brownsville’s Tax Board and then in 1975 was<br />

elected a City Commissioner, a post he held<br />

for six years. Around that time he also became<br />

a member of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Development<br />

Council and still sits on its loan committee.<br />

With Charlie Trub, Ted Hunt, and Butch<br />

Brittain, Renato Cardenas surveyed the<br />

community’s needs and in 1973 organized the<br />

bond sale that built <strong>Valley</strong> Community<br />

Hospital in 1975. Cardenas served on the<br />

hospital’s Board of Directors until the hospital<br />

was sold in 1985. The revenue from the sale<br />

was used to create Brownsville Foundation for<br />

Health and Education, which has endowed<br />

the University of Texas-Brownsville/Texas<br />

Southmost College, provided scholarships,<br />

children’s services and, of course, Cardenas is<br />

a board member.<br />

Mary Rose Cardenas joined the hospital<br />

Board when her husband resigned and she<br />

was instrumental in building the $60-million<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Hospital on the Expressway.<br />

When she resigned in 2001, her daughter Elsa<br />

Cardenas Hagan came on the Board. The<br />

association with that hospital is continuous<br />

and unbroken for the family.<br />

In 1984 Mary Rose Cardenas began a long,<br />

satisfying relationship as a member of the<br />

Board of Trustees of Texas Southmost College<br />

(TSC.) She served as chairman of the board<br />

three times and was on the committees that<br />

selected Dr. Juliet V. Garcia as president and<br />

helped create the University of Texas-<br />

Brownsville/TSC partnership. Committed to<br />

providing educational opportunities for the<br />

people of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, she has been<br />

called one of the ten most influential people<br />

in Brownsville.<br />

With their parents as role models, the<br />

Cardenas’ sons and daughters have contributed<br />

to the family businesses and to their<br />

communities. In 1985 Rick Cardenas started<br />

Cubco Construction Inc., a construction<br />

company specializing in building infrastructure<br />

for subdivisions and commercial properties.<br />

Reba Cardenas McNair runs Cardenas<br />

Development. During the 1990s Rene Cardenas<br />

bought a Harlingen dealership that is now<br />

Cardenas Autoplex/Cardenas Toyota/BMW,<br />

selling Mercedes Benz, Toyotas, BMWs,<br />

Cadillacs, and Mazdas. Elsa Hagan, a master<br />

speech therapist, has revolutionized the<br />

treatment of dyslexic, Spanish-speaking<br />

children with her program Esperanza that uses<br />

multi-sensory learning. Her husband, Andy<br />

Hagan, is general manager of Cardenas Motors.<br />

Eldarose Cardenas is an attorney in Austin.<br />

While most Cardenas’ offspring are deeply<br />

involved in the family businesses, there is<br />

no question about who leads the family.<br />

“My mother is the comptroller still and<br />

my father runs everyone,” says Reba McNair.<br />

“He spends most of his time with real estate<br />

matters, but he visits the auto sites everyday.”<br />

✧<br />

Top: Cardenas Autoplex, Inc., Harlingen.<br />

Above: Cardenas Toyota-BMW, Inc.,<br />

Harlingen.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

357


RANCHO VIEJO<br />

RESORT &<br />

COUNTRY CLUB<br />

A golfing paradise in tropical south Texas,<br />

Rancho Viejo Resort & Country Club offers<br />

two of the finest courses in the state. El<br />

Diablo and El Angel, both eighteen-hole<br />

championship golf courses, encourage guests<br />

to swing into par 70 action. Located in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, which has 340 playable days<br />

per year, Rancho Viejo Resort bestows more<br />

golfing time than anywhere else in the United<br />

States. Spacious southwestern style villas and<br />

suites set in a lush landscape make it easy to<br />

play and stay beneath swaying palm trees. All<br />

the resort’s accommodations are set along the<br />

golf courses and tree-edged resacas. Resort<br />

guests enjoy access to every club facility<br />

including the lighted tennis courts and a<br />

landscaped swimming pool with cascading<br />

waterfall and a swim-up bar. The Delta Dawn<br />

cruises the resaca that flows through the<br />

Resort’s fourteen hundred acres.<br />

For elegant dining experiences, nothing<br />

can compare with Rancho Viejo’s Casa <strong>Grande</strong><br />

Supper Club. The historic hacienda, perfect<br />

for a romantic evening or a private business<br />

dinner, offers regional specialties like tequilagrilled<br />

rack of lamb, and the wine collection is<br />

legendary. For more informal meals, the<br />

Ranchero Room in the clubhouse serves Texas<br />

border favorites and home-cooked style<br />

specialties for breakfast, lunch, and dinner as<br />

well as brunches on Saturday and Sunday.<br />

But it is the superb golfing experience, equal<br />

to that of major Arizona and Florida resorts,<br />

which continues to draw golfers to Rancho Viejo.<br />

The two courses challenge the experienced golfer<br />

but allow the average golfer a pleasant round. El<br />

Angel’s rolling fairways demand accurate tee<br />

shots past numerous water and sand hazards. El<br />

Diablo, known as one of Texas’ top ten resort golf<br />

courses, has been given the Spanish name of The<br />

Devil for good reason. Tee times are plentiful so<br />

a golfer never feels rushed. Play on the two<br />

courses alternates daily.<br />

Rancho Viejo’s practice and teaching<br />

facilities include a driving range and putting<br />

and chipping greens. The exceptional pro<br />

shop and clubroom, group clinics and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

358


tournaments contribute to Rancho Viejo’s<br />

reputation as “the best golf on the Gulf.”<br />

Membership at Rancho Viejo is available at a<br />

fraction of the costs of other southern and<br />

southwestern golf destinations.<br />

For a change of pace, the beaches of South<br />

Padre Island and the exotic atmosphere of<br />

Old Mexico are each less than thirty minutes<br />

away. Also nearby are Civil War and Mexican<br />

War battlefields, museums, and notable<br />

wildlife refuges.<br />

Rancho Viejo translates as Old Ranch and<br />

the property’s history can be traced back to<br />

1770 and the Espiritu Santo land grant. Settled<br />

in 1770 by Jose de la Garza and his wife<br />

Gertrudis, the daughter of pioneer Captain Blais<br />

Maria Falcon, title to the Espiritu Santo Ranch<br />

was awarded by the Spanish Crown in 1781.<br />

The old ranch’s fifty-nine leagues (261,275<br />

aces) spread across the future site of Brownsville<br />

and the acreage that became the Resort and<br />

Town of Rancho Viejo. Heirs bequeathed,<br />

partitioned, and squabbled over the land after<br />

the Mexican and Texas Revolutions, the Civil<br />

War, and throughout the twentieth century.<br />

In 1968 Fort Worth developer Bill Bass<br />

purchased 280 acres of the Casa <strong>Grande</strong> Tract<br />

and began constructing Rancho Viejo,<br />

envisioning a resort community of vacation<br />

cottages surrounded by championship golf<br />

courses and custom homes. Additional<br />

acquisitions included Espiritu Santo land,<br />

which became part of the golf course, and the<br />

honeymoon cottage of philanthropists Gladys<br />

and Dan Porter, now the Rancho Viejo Pro<br />

shop. The Casa <strong>Grande</strong>, originally built as a<br />

gambling retreat for Oklahoman oilman L. H.<br />

Prichard, became the Supper Club.<br />

In 1978 retired Kansas City developer<br />

and contractor Ted Trapp purchased Rancho<br />

Viejo Resort & Country Club. He added<br />

the convention center, meeting rooms,<br />

guestrooms, and the fountain which graces the<br />

registration building. His continual updating<br />

and remodeling of the property, including the<br />

golf courses, enhances the tropical country<br />

club lifestyle. Margaret Trapp, who has owned<br />

the boutique longer than the Trapp family has<br />

owned the resort and club, constantly sees to<br />

the overall improvement of the property.<br />

In 1980 the town of Rancho Viejo was<br />

incorporated with its own police and street<br />

maintenance departments. Today the community<br />

boasts 520 homes and 389 condominiums.<br />

Tim Trapp is now the hands-on general<br />

manager of the resort and club, which is<br />

famous for the recreational activities that both<br />

challenge and relax the guests. The<br />

recreational aspect combines well with<br />

business, making the resort an excellent<br />

venue for meetings, accommodating groups<br />

in the fully equipped ballroom or seven<br />

smaller rooms. The ballroom also is an<br />

exceptional setting for a wedding or other<br />

very special event.<br />

It’s true that guests don’t want to leave<br />

Rancho Viejo and often ask to buy the villas<br />

where they stay under the swaying palms.<br />

They agree with the resort’s motto: “Stay a day,<br />

a week, or a lifetime.”<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

359


✧<br />

ATLAS &<br />

HALL, L.L.P.<br />

Above: Morris Atlas, founder, senior and<br />

managing partner of Atlas & Hall, McAllen.<br />

Below: Attorney Gary Gurwitz, Atlas &<br />

Hall senior partner.<br />

When Morris Atlas graduated from the<br />

University of Texas School of Law in 1950, he<br />

began to look for a likely place to establish a<br />

law practice. That he chose the small but<br />

growing city of McAllen turned out to be a<br />

blessing for himself and his family, for McAllen<br />

and the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, and for many<br />

educational, cultural and civic organizations.<br />

It was in 1953 that Atlas, Wade Spillman<br />

and Howard Stafford founded the firm that<br />

would become the largest law firm in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and one of the leading law firms<br />

in South Texas. Since its founding, Atlas &<br />

Hall, L.L.P. has experienced a steady and<br />

substantial growth in size, in the number of<br />

clients it serves, and in the scope of its practice.<br />

Now a firm of twenty-seven attorneys, the<br />

full-service law firm offers a widely diversified<br />

general civil practice, including litigation at<br />

all levels of state and federal courts involving<br />

general and commercial business matters,<br />

products liability and insurance.<br />

The traditional geographic focus of its law<br />

practice has been on South Texas. Over the past<br />

few years there has been an increased awareness<br />

of South Texas as an emerging business and<br />

international center. Because the firm is located<br />

near the U.S./Mexico border, it is positioned to<br />

provide timely, quality legal service with respect<br />

to matters involving Mexico.<br />

A sizeable portion of the firm’s business<br />

involves the representation of corporations,<br />

other business entities and individuals that are<br />

headquartered or require legal services<br />

elsewhere. This has resulted in significant work<br />

in Austin, San Antonio, Houston, Dallas, and<br />

Washington D.C., and other places to which<br />

they are called by their clients from time to time.<br />

The firm represents large and small<br />

corporations, banks, financial institutions,<br />

foundations, nonprofit organizations, and<br />

many individuals, estates, trusts and<br />

governmental entities. Its client list also<br />

includes oil companies, insurance defense<br />

clients, school and irrigation districts, and the<br />

major newspapers and television stations in<br />

the area.<br />

Atlas & Hall attorneys also are actively<br />

involved in civic, political, charitable and<br />

professional activities. Seven of the firm<br />

partners have served as president of the<br />

Hidalgo County Bar Association. Three<br />

partners are members of the American College<br />

of Trial Lawyers, and two are members of the<br />

American College of Trust and Estate Counsel.<br />

Firm members have served or are serving on<br />

the Board of Regents of The University of Texas-<br />

Pan American and South Texas Community<br />

College, various committees of the American<br />

and Texas Bar Associations, the board of<br />

directors of the State Bar of Texas; the board of<br />

directors of various banks, corporations, and<br />

hospitals, and the board of directors of various<br />

charitable and cultural organizations.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

360


Morris Atlas, the firm’s founder, senior, and<br />

managing partner, has done much more than<br />

practice law since he moved to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in 1953. An interest close to his heart is<br />

education, especially improving higher<br />

education opportunities in South Texas. He was<br />

vice chairman and later chairman of the Pan<br />

American University Board of Regents, and was<br />

instrumental in the successful effort to bring that<br />

institution into The University of Texas System.<br />

He is a member of the Development Board<br />

of The University of Texas at Austin, a<br />

member of the University of Texas Centennial<br />

Commission, Chair of the University of Texas<br />

Chancellor’s council, and is a Life Trustee and<br />

Past President of the Law School Foundation.<br />

His dedicated service to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> region, to the State of Texas, and to the<br />

University of Texas has earned him many<br />

honors. In 1988 he received The University of<br />

Texas School of Law Faculty service Award.<br />

He was named Founder’s Day Honoree by The<br />

University of Texas-Pan American in 1990<br />

and Border Texan of the Year in 1991 by the<br />

Hidalgo Chamber of Commerce.<br />

The Jewish National Fund for humanitarian<br />

service honored Atlas with the Tree of Life<br />

Award in 1994. He was recognized in 1995 by<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Council of the Boy Scouts of<br />

America with its Distinguished Citizen Award<br />

and was named Humanitarian of the Year by<br />

Easter Seals <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in 1999.<br />

In 1997 he was a recipient of the<br />

Outstanding Alumnus Award presented by the<br />

Law Alumni Association of the University of<br />

Texas School of Law. He was named one of the<br />

state’s 102 “legal legends” by the Texas Lawyer in<br />

2000 and awarded “Outstanding Fifty-Year<br />

Lawyer” by the Texas Bar Foundation in 2001.<br />

Just as Atlas is proud of the growth and<br />

accomplishments of the firm he founded, he is<br />

also proud of the city he chose for his home<br />

almost fifty years ago. McAllen is the financial<br />

and cultural heart of the seventh largest<br />

metropolitan area in Texas, which also includes<br />

Edinburg, Pharr, Mission, and other areas of<br />

Hidalgo County. During the last several years<br />

this area has experienced a major economic<br />

boom, and the rate of population growth is one<br />

of the highest of the nation’s metropolitan<br />

areas. McAllen itself has grown from a<br />

population of 23,000 in 1953 to a rapidly<br />

growing city of 110,000.<br />

Atlas & Hall, L.L.P. has been an integral<br />

part of this growth and is poised to be an<br />

important force in the continued development<br />

of the region.<br />

✧<br />

Above: In 1993, Morris Atlas, right, was<br />

one of six UT graduates to receive the<br />

Distinguished Alumnus Award, the highest<br />

honor bestowed by The Ex-Students<br />

Association. Also honored were, from left,<br />

Dan Williams, retired chairman of<br />

Southland Financial Corporation, Dallas;<br />

novelist Shelby Hearon, North White Plains,<br />

New York; Dr. Bud Frazier, Houston<br />

surgeon and researcher; Sam Barshop,<br />

founder of La Quinta Motor Inns, San<br />

Antonio, and Louis Beecherl, Jr., Dallas<br />

investor and rancher.<br />

Below: The Atlas family in 1993 (from left<br />

to right): Debra Atlas; Dr. Jeffrey and Lisa<br />

Genecov and their children, Adam and<br />

Rebecca; Morris and Rita Atlas; Dr. Alan<br />

and Lauren Silverblatt; and Scott and<br />

Nancy Atlas and their children, David<br />

and Ryan.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

361


✧<br />

VILLALBA<br />

GROUP, INC.<br />

Above: Ramon Villarreal Santos (seated) and<br />

Ramon Villarreal San Miguel in Villaldama,<br />

Nuevo Leon at the family hacienda.<br />

Below: Alejandro Villarreal Alba, Ramon<br />

Villarreal Alba and Alberto Villarreal Alba<br />

at a family gathering in Brownsville, Texas.<br />

Never has the phrase “one thing led to<br />

another” been more appropriate than when<br />

applied to brothers Ramon, Alberto, and<br />

Alejandro Villarreal Alba. Their ability to move<br />

quickly when opportunities arise has enabled<br />

them to transform their managing general<br />

agency, Underwriters MGA, Inc., into the farreaching<br />

conglomerate Villalba Group Inc. In<br />

only thirteen years, the family’s holdings have<br />

expanded to include real estate, property and<br />

casualty MGAs, transportation, import/export<br />

offices, television, telecommunications, and<br />

service companies in Mexico, Texas, and<br />

across the Southwest.<br />

While attending international conferences<br />

on transportation, insurance, agriculture, and<br />

importation/exportation, the Villarreals’<br />

encountered businessmen who needed cargo<br />

insured, moved, and exported. Realizing that<br />

a world of possibilities awaited, they started a<br />

trucking company to serve both American<br />

and Mexican businesses. Then it seemed only<br />

logical, given UMGA’s insurance services, to<br />

become import/export brokers. When some<br />

debts owed to Villalba Group were paid off in<br />

the form of real estate and business, the<br />

Villarreals were suddenly in the real estate<br />

business. By that point, setting up a printing<br />

company was the obvious next step because<br />

the insurance, trucking, real estate, and<br />

import/export businesses required so many<br />

forms and other paper.<br />

Underwriters MGA Inc., which has offices<br />

in McAllen, Harlingen, and Brownsville,<br />

Texas, and La Jolla and San Diego, California<br />

got its start selling insurance to Mexican<br />

nationals and vehicles coming into the U.S.<br />

and also selling tourist insurance for U.S.<br />

vehicles going into Mexico. Today, UMGA<br />

insures seventy percent of the Mexican<br />

vehicles, private passenger or commercial,<br />

that enters the U.S. as well as selling private<br />

passenger insurance for Texas residents with<br />

representatives in Texas, Arizona, New<br />

Mexico and Mexico.<br />

The entrepreneurial spirit that sparked the<br />

growth of the Villalba Group has been apparent<br />

for several generations in Texas and in Mexico.<br />

Ramon Villarreal San Miguel and Aurora<br />

Alba de Villarreal had five children: Ramon,<br />

Alejandro, Alberto, Lorena, and Gustavo. The<br />

children’s maternal grandparents Isaias Alba<br />

Olmos and Dolores Cervantes were large<br />

landholders in Delicias and Jimenez,<br />

Chihuahua. The children’s paternal<br />

grandfather, Ramon Villarreal Santos came<br />

from a respected ranching family in Villa<br />

Aldama, Nuevo Leon. During the Mexican<br />

Revolution, Pancho Villa often raided the<br />

family ranch for beef for his troops. When<br />

diseases also began to decimate the cattle<br />

herd, the grandfather moved the family to<br />

Nuevo Laredo and then to Matamoros and<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

362


started over from scratch. By the late 1970s,<br />

when the family moved to Brownsville,<br />

Ramon Villarreal San Miguel had established<br />

himself as a rancher and owned restaurants<br />

and an import/export company specializing in<br />

heavy machinery.<br />

The breadth of the Villalba Group is<br />

astounding. The insurance sector of their<br />

holdings include Underwriters MGA, Inc. of<br />

Texas and Underwriters MGA West Inc.,<br />

International Insurance Agency, and in<br />

Mexico, Iturbe, Esquinazi and Johnson<br />

Insurance, and Arimex, the south of the<br />

border counterpart of Underwriters MGA.<br />

Having developed software to manage<br />

multiple insurance transactions, Villalba<br />

Group founded Insurance Inventory Software<br />

to market the programs. Their Laredo<br />

Consolidated imports coffee; Villazol<br />

Automobiles sells cars; and Graphic Express<br />

is the in-house printing firm. Vizo Inc is the<br />

investment holding company for the<br />

Villarreals. Under its umbrella are Alba<br />

Enterprises, handling the import/export<br />

business and known in Mexico as<br />

Importacion/Exportacion Vizo; Villalba<br />

Transport, which is the trucking division;<br />

Villazol, owner of a Tamaulipan concessions<br />

for cellular telephones; and Quinto Real<br />

Estate Management, holding commercial and<br />

industrial properties.<br />

Alejandro Villarreal oversees Villa Group<br />

Inc., which has television and telecommunications<br />

ventures under the name Villalba<br />

Media Productions. The counterpart company<br />

in Mexico is Publitel that owns the concessions<br />

for local programming in Tamaulipas for the<br />

national network Azteca.<br />

Although Villalba Group has developed<br />

remarkably in a short period; the Villarreals<br />

predict even greater expansion for the<br />

company in the near future. Underwriters<br />

UMGA is planning to offer property and<br />

casualty insurance in Nevada, Illinois, Arizona,<br />

New Mexico, and Michigan. The import/export<br />

services are poised to extend beyond Canada-<br />

U.S.-Latin America transactions to Europe and<br />

Asia. On the environmental front, Villalba<br />

Group is planning to respond to the huge<br />

demand in Mexico for waste management and<br />

confinement facilities. Additionally, Villalba<br />

Group will enter the tourism marketplace,<br />

taking over a hotel in Mexico, and is also<br />

researching opportunities in the maquiladora<br />

industry and the banking sector in the U.S.<br />

and Mexico.<br />

Villalba Group Inc. received national<br />

recognition when Hispanic Magazine’s 2001<br />

listing of the five hundred largest Hispanic<br />

businesses ranked the company at number<br />

seventy-seven.<br />

✧<br />

Left: Chairman of the Board Ramon<br />

Villarreal Alba giving the welcoming<br />

speech at the annual convention in<br />

London, England.<br />

Below: A family gathering at the La Plaza<br />

Hotel, New York City, New York. Standing<br />

(from left to right): Gustavo Villarreal Alba,<br />

Alberto Villarreal Alba, Alejandro Villarreal<br />

Alba, Norma Lopez de Villarreal, Ramon<br />

Villarreal Alba, and Daniel Hernández.<br />

Seated (from left to right): Claudia Zolezzi<br />

de Villarreal, Irma Montemayor de<br />

Villarreal, Aurora Alba de Villarreal, and<br />

Lorena Villarreal de Hernández.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

363


TEXAN<br />

GUEST<br />

RANCH<br />

✧<br />

Above: The Texan Guest Ranch clubhouse<br />

and lobby in the 1950s.<br />

Below: Fifty years later, the Texan Guest<br />

Ranch clubhouse and suites.<br />

Nestled among rustling palms and<br />

flowering bougainvillea, the Texan Guest<br />

Ranch has offered south Texas hospitality for<br />

more than seventy-five years. Generations of<br />

guests have been introduced to the tropical<br />

magic of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> on the ranch’s<br />

twenty acres of native trees and plants.<br />

In the early 1920s Lloyd Bentsen purchased<br />

the original farmhouse north of McAllen to<br />

convert into a guesthouse. The Bentsens<br />

brought clients from the north to show them<br />

the abundant opportunities for year-round<br />

citrus and vegetable farming and to sell them<br />

land. Guests arriving for tours of the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

Mexico, and South Padre Island would stay at<br />

the Guest Ranch, enjoying family style meals in<br />

the dining room and relaxing on the porch.<br />

North and south wings were soon added<br />

to the former farmhouse and the large<br />

screened veranda with ceiling fans became<br />

the lobby where groups would assemble for<br />

tours. In the 1930s a building with twentyfour<br />

guest rooms was built south of the Guest<br />

House. A separate sales office across the way<br />

aided the writing and completion of land<br />

sales contracts.<br />

In the late 1940s Howard Moffit and Tom<br />

Cross began their association with the Guest<br />

Ranch. They bought a steam engine which in<br />

the dead of winter would sit on a side track<br />

in Iowa farm towns, bell clanging, with a<br />

sign: “This train is going to the sunny <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>” and the next departure date.<br />

Whenever train passengers arrived in<br />

McAllen, cars brought them to the Guest<br />

Ranch. Then the acres of colorful oranges,<br />

tangerines and grapefruit combined with<br />

the tropical ambiance worked their magic on<br />

the guests.<br />

Several years later, Moffit and Cross<br />

purchased the Guest Ranch and adjoining<br />

acreage. They continued to develop and sell<br />

tracts of land for twenty more years. W. T.<br />

Ellis and Curtis Davis came to work for the<br />

two salesmen and carried on the tradition of<br />

developing and marketing irrigated farm<br />

tracts. Through the 1950s and 1960s military<br />

personnel considering retirement in the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

became the focus of their marketing efforts.<br />

Ellis and Davis purchased the Guest Ranch in<br />

1966 and began developing both residential<br />

and farming tracts. Curtis Davis remains a<br />

principal owner and continues to host and<br />

visit over early morning coffee.<br />

In 1981 the twenty-four room units dating<br />

from the 1930s were renovated and enlarged<br />

into spacious apartments with ranch style<br />

kitchens, accommodating guests staying for a<br />

week or a month. In 1994 the North Wing<br />

was rebuilt into the Texan Suites, which are<br />

studio apartments designed for the business<br />

guest who wants more than just a motel room<br />

for an extended stay. Immensely popular, the<br />

Texan Suites have fully furnished kitchens,<br />

sixty-channel cable service, maid and linen<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

364


service, and access to the self-service Laundry<br />

Barn. Notable guests over the years have<br />

included Colonel Sanders and John Y. Brown<br />

of Kentucky Fried Chicken and Peter<br />

Siemens of Germany. During the filming of<br />

Dr. Cleo Dawson’s epic, She Came to the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong>, Freddy Fender, Sissy Spacek, Dean<br />

Stockwell, and Scott Glen came to the Texan<br />

Guest Ranch. But all the Ranch’s numerous<br />

guests have been special.<br />

On the extensive grounds of Texan Guest<br />

Ranch, guests enjoy a wide range of activities<br />

and relaxations: taking a dip in the sparkling<br />

pool, lounging in the Jacuzzi, jogging or<br />

walking the property or the adjacent road<br />

along the water district’s canal or enjoying the<br />

camaraderie of the patio. Much has changed<br />

on the Ranch, but the lobby and family style<br />

dining room still welcome new and returning<br />

guests in the surrounding of bygone days: the<br />

serape mosaic tile floor, whispering ceiling<br />

fans, and smiling friendly faces.<br />

Texan Guest Ranch stays occupied year<br />

round with business people, maquiladora<br />

specialists, and newcomers checking out the<br />

area, and Winter Texan regulars. Business<br />

guests say they wish they could find lodging<br />

similar to the Guest Ranch elsewhere, but the<br />

ranch is unique.<br />

Currently Texan Guest Ranch has forty-five<br />

studios and apartments, and although it is<br />

expanding, the Ranch will always keep the<br />

atmosphere of southern hospitality. In the pool<br />

area, the South Wing is being rebuilt to provide<br />

more Texan Suites, including high tech<br />

comfort and computer access. In the future<br />

luxurious, spacious Hacienda Executive suites<br />

will be built around a courtyard fountain on<br />

the northern two acres of the property. For<br />

workout enthusiasts, an exercise barn is<br />

planned near the R.V. Corral.<br />

Family owned and operated, the Texan<br />

Guest Ranch offers the special feeling of a<br />

home-away-from-home to its guests. The<br />

Ranch welcomes new friends and old at 8301<br />

North Ware Road, north of McAllen, only six<br />

miles north of Expressway 83. The family and<br />

staff invite you to come and enjoy the magic<br />

of the Texan Guest Ranch during your next<br />

visit to South Texas.<br />

✧<br />

Above: A tropical pool area with sparkling<br />

pool and relaxing Jacuzzi.<br />

Below: The Davis family and staff welcome<br />

you to the Texan Guest Ranch.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

365


✧<br />

Pull-type scrapers from Reynolds<br />

International have reshaped the world. The<br />

Texas company’s equipment is in demand on<br />

farms, highway and building construction<br />

sites, and land-transforming projects.<br />

REYNOLDS INTERNATIONAL, L.P.<br />

Few companies can claim to have visibly<br />

changed the world the way Reynolds<br />

International, L.P., has. From rerouting<br />

Florida’s Kissimmee River and building<br />

Mississippi catfish ponds to constructing<br />

Highway 100 to South Padre Island and<br />

digging mines in Tennessee, Reynolds’ heavyduty<br />

earth scrapers have covered and<br />

uncovered a lot of ground. Reynolds<br />

International’s rugged equipment design,<br />

quality fabrication, and responsive customer<br />

service has enabled them to dominate the<br />

pull-type scraper market. Surveys show that<br />

in excess of sixty percent of pull-type scrapers<br />

sold are manufactured by Reynolds.<br />

When farmer Glenn L. Reynolds formed the<br />

Reynolds Manufacturing Company in McAllen,<br />

Texas, in 1953, his goal was to produce and sell<br />

agricultural land-forming equipment. Farmers<br />

required equipment that could accurately level<br />

land for irrigation. The demand for Reynolds’<br />

dependable products fueled the company’s<br />

continuous growth. Two years after Glenn<br />

Reynolds’ death in 1958, the company was<br />

incorporated. In the following years, Reynolds<br />

management concentrated on improving the<br />

design and the usefulness of their scrapers.<br />

They established distributorships, revamped<br />

the manufacturing facilities and updated<br />

production techniques. When Hurricane<br />

Beulah ripped through the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> in<br />

1963, Reynolds scrapers were used to rebuild<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>’s broken levees at McAllen.<br />

From 1974 to 1991 the company was a<br />

subsidiary of diverse corporations.<br />

In December 1991 Reynolds International,<br />

L.P., purchased the company’s assets. Since<br />

then, Reynolds International has strengthened<br />

its reputation as the premiere manufacturer<br />

of land forming equipment for the agricultural<br />

market and as an important supplier to the<br />

construction industry. Today ninety-five<br />

percent of the scrapers Reynolds manufactures<br />

are being used on construction projects<br />

because of a simple economic fact. Reynolds<br />

pull-type scrapers move dirt at less than<br />

half the cost of equivalent self-propelled<br />

equipment. As construction costs go up, the<br />

cost effectiveness of using Reynolds systems to<br />

move dirt becomes more obvious. The scrapers<br />

are engineered to reduce fuel consumption and<br />

to achieve an optimum match of earthmoving<br />

capacity and tractor power that insures<br />

continuous, problem-free performance at the<br />

lowest cost per cubic yard possible.<br />

In the last twenty-five years, the standard<br />

capacity of scrapers has increased from ten to<br />

seventeen cubic yards. Reynolds now designs<br />

and manufactures more than forty models of<br />

versatile earthmoving and land forming pulltype<br />

scrapers. They range from heaped<br />

capacities of five cubic yards to eighteen cubic<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

366


yards. Scrapers are now frequently pulled in<br />

tandem or in trains of three scrapers behind a<br />

single tractor.<br />

Reynolds’ products fall into five broad<br />

categories: carry-all scrapers, ejector scrapers<br />

for precision earth moving, finishing drag<br />

scrapers for periodic maintenance work, allterrain<br />

wagons for moving mud and<br />

demolition rubble, and field service equipment<br />

such as water tankers and wedgefoot rollers.<br />

Reynolds equipment builds highways; prepares<br />

industrial, retail and residential sites; operates<br />

at sanitary landfills; constructs golf courses,<br />

airport and seaport sites, and flood control<br />

projects; lays out orchards, row and field crops<br />

for irrigation management; and prepares<br />

landscape sites.<br />

Worldwide Reynolds counts over three<br />

hundred tractor dealerships that distribute<br />

its equipment.<br />

Reynolds’ forty-five-acre facility in McAllen<br />

features a well-equipped manufacturing plant<br />

with over 235,000 square feet under roof. The<br />

company’s approximately four hundred qualityconscious<br />

employees are long-term contributors<br />

to the company’s success. Next to the plant are<br />

the proving grounds where Reynolds’<br />

engineering staff tests prototypes and design<br />

improvements. Reynolds International’s<br />

commitment to continuous improvement and<br />

innovation ensures quality products, superior<br />

service and satisfied customers.<br />

Reynolds’ attention to ISO 9001 certification<br />

is evidence of the company’s solid product<br />

support. The engineering department constantly<br />

modifies and upgrades equipment based on<br />

customers’ comments, listening carefully to<br />

what customers say they need. Often enough a<br />

custom-built scraper requested by one customer<br />

is so successful that the modification is<br />

incorporated into standard models. Features like<br />

innovative hydraulic controls and heavy duty<br />

cylinders designed for laser precision cuts and<br />

fast spreading operations have been added to<br />

Reynolds scrapers along with safety devices such<br />

as lock-outs and holding pins on blades.<br />

Environmentally sensitive sites have<br />

sparked a demand for the company’s<br />

specialized equipment that lessens ground<br />

compaction. Reynolds scrapers with floatation<br />

tires work well in swampy or soft sandy sites<br />

while low ground pressure hauling units are<br />

used to protect remediation sites.<br />

Reynolds International has extensive<br />

experience in contract manufacturing of<br />

heavy-duty components, subassemblies, and<br />

complete products for oil field, agricultural,<br />

construction and mining companies. They<br />

work closely with customers to meet delivery<br />

schedules with competitive pricing and<br />

adherence to strict quality control standards.<br />

Reynolds International’s goals are to<br />

continue growth in the construction<br />

marketplace and maintain their distinction as<br />

the leader in the pull-type scraper market by<br />

developing new and improved products for the<br />

construction market, and as always, since their<br />

inception, to meet the needs of agricultural<br />

land leveling.<br />

✧<br />

Above: For nearly fifty years, Reynolds<br />

scrapers have been operated in single,<br />

tandem, or triples. Reynolds dominates the<br />

market because its equipment represents the<br />

most cost-effective way to move earth.<br />

Below: Reynolds International’s facility in<br />

McAllen cover forty-five acres, including an<br />

extensive manufacturing building and<br />

testing grounds where equipment<br />

innovations go through trials.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

367


✧<br />

Above: The Southwestern Bell Telephone<br />

Central Office in Mercedes, 1933.<br />

COURTESY OF SBC COMMUNICATIONS ARCHIVES.<br />

Below: The Southwestern Bell Telephone<br />

Central Office in Mission, 1933.<br />

COURTESY OF SBC COMMUNICATIONS ARCHIVES.<br />

SBC COMMUNICATIONS INC.<br />

Southwestern Telegraph and Telephone<br />

Company, which obtained exclusive rights to<br />

Bell telephone patents in Texas and Arkansas<br />

in 1881, laid the foundation for telephone<br />

service to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> over 120<br />

years ago. Actual local telephone service<br />

began in Brownsville in 1882 with a manual<br />

magneto switchboard, probably serving fewer<br />

than forty customers.<br />

The number of telephone subscribers grew<br />

slowly, with 60 in Brownsville in August 1883,<br />

and 200-250 in December of 1908. Two<br />

copper-wire circuits were completed in 1911<br />

between Brownsville and Harlingen (which<br />

had thirty-four subscribers), allowing<br />

Brownsville subscribers long-distance access to<br />

other Texas cities. A Brownsville newspaper<br />

called this an important improvement to <strong>Valley</strong><br />

communications, and noted that it marked the<br />

start of a general upgrade of equipment. With<br />

conversion from magneto to common batterytype<br />

switchboards, customers no longer had to<br />

crank their wall phones to signal the operator.<br />

Harlingen’s service expanded from daytime-only<br />

to twenty-four-hour access in 1913,<br />

during a period when “homeseekers” were<br />

arriving by train to view properties advertised<br />

by the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Land Corporation.<br />

Southwestern Bell Telephone Company, the<br />

successor organized in April 1920, provided<br />

phone services in Texas, Arkansas, Kansas,<br />

Missouri, and Oklahoma, and by 1926<br />

Brownsville had 1,345 telephones and<br />

Harlingen had 408. A completely new system<br />

was built to meet Harlingen’s demands for<br />

service. A new toll line, built in 1927 between<br />

Alice and McAllen, stretched 109 miles over<br />

mostly desolate terrain.<br />

Brownsville became the first dial exchange<br />

in the <strong>Valley</strong> in 1948. Harlingen also<br />

registered a couple of “firsts” in 1955-56–the<br />

first city in Texas with Direct Distance Dialing<br />

(DDD), allowing customers to call other <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> exchanges without operator<br />

assistance, and the first Texas city with<br />

nationwide DDD.<br />

As a result of the AT&T divestiture in 1984,<br />

Southwestern Bell Telephone Company became an<br />

operating subsidiary of Southwestern Bell Corp.<br />

(known today as SBC Communications Inc.).<br />

Through the years the company has earned<br />

laurels for service during emergencies and<br />

special events, from fighting along the border to<br />

severe hurricanes to Presidential visits. During<br />

the Battle at Matamoros in 1913, the<br />

Brownsville office manager reported, “In less<br />

than fifteen minutes after the first shot I had all<br />

six [operators in service]…. I have seen the<br />

public aroused in times of fire or storm, but<br />

never anything like that day….” A hurricane in<br />

1933 destroyed six telephone exchanges,<br />

including both Harlingen and Brownsville.<br />

During Hurricane Beulah in 1967, essential<br />

service was maintained, even though ten<br />

exchanges were destroyed, “telephone poles<br />

snapped like toothpicks and lines lashed the air<br />

like giant whips.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

368


CINGULAR<br />

WIRELESS<br />

Cingular Wireless, formerly known as<br />

Southwestern Bell Wireless, has been an<br />

instrumental player in the development and<br />

dynamic growth of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

community since it first introduced wireless<br />

service in 1988. Through the years, the<br />

company has offered wireless technologies<br />

that have enabled global communication for<br />

the community. Cingular has also invested<br />

back into the community through various<br />

programs and the support of different causes<br />

and local organizations.<br />

Before Cingular introduced wireless service<br />

in 1988, the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> area had very few<br />

wireless capabilities. The region was dependent<br />

on expensive long distance landline phone calls<br />

and time-consuming services for conducting<br />

business across the U.S. and internationally. This<br />

not only proved to be a setback for companies<br />

but for the overall economy of the <strong>Valley</strong> region.<br />

With the introduction of Cingular’s wireless<br />

services, the doors of communication were<br />

opened and the residents of the <strong>Valley</strong> were finally<br />

able to enjoy a whole new arena of advanced<br />

wireless services. Nation and Texas-wide toll-free<br />

calls were introduced, state-of-the-art digital<br />

quality and wireless Internet capabilities linked<br />

people together and great rate plans allowed more<br />

talking freedom for customers.<br />

In addition to providing wireless services,<br />

Cingular Wireless has also been a dedicated<br />

community partner and has supported many<br />

organizations and causes within the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Cingular Wireless’ commitment to community<br />

stems from the same spirit that drives the<br />

company’s dedication to helping customers<br />

express themselves.<br />

In the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> area, Cingular has<br />

been a proud partner of Special Olympics Texas<br />

since 1995 and a sponsor of Team USA in<br />

Special Olympics. The company has also<br />

supported organizations such as Scouting, Boys<br />

and Girls Club, 4-H and FFA. Cingular is also a<br />

strong advocate in preventing drug, alcohol and<br />

child abuse as well as charitable causes such as<br />

March of Dimes and Sunny Glen Children’s<br />

Home. Cingular has provided financial aid to<br />

schools and given immediate support during<br />

community disasters.<br />

The Texas Legislature recognized Cingular’s<br />

outstanding corporate citizenship in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> with a resolution honoring the<br />

company. In September of 1989, State Senator<br />

Eddie Lucio presented the company with an<br />

official flag from the state capitol.<br />

Today, Cingular Wireless is the second largest<br />

wireless carrier in the U.S. and is dedicated to<br />

self-expression and customer-friendly service.<br />

As a leader in mobile voice and data<br />

communications in 2001, Cingular, a joint<br />

venture between SBC Communications and<br />

BellSouth, serves twenty million customers<br />

nationwide. Details of the company are available<br />

at www.cingular.com.<br />

✧<br />

State Senator Eddie Lucio (right) recognizes<br />

Cingular Wireless by presenting Ken Lee,<br />

director of external distribution, with a<br />

plaque and official state flag in 1989.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

369


OLIVAREZ<br />

RANCHES<br />

BY KATHY<br />

OLIVAREZ<br />

Olivarez Ranch is now in its fourth<br />

generation of ownership by the same family.<br />

Owners quietly celebrated its hundredth<br />

birthday in the family in 1998. It is located<br />

approximately forty miles northwest of<br />

Mission near San Isidro.<br />

The ranch had its beginnings in 1898 when<br />

the great grandparents of current owners Ben<br />

and Sam Olivarez, purchased about six<br />

thousand acres of dry brushland. Cayetano and<br />

Crisanta Barrera settled next to her mother,<br />

Crisanta Guerra, to form La Reforma Ranch.<br />

Originally from Mier, Mexico, Guerra had<br />

moved north to Falfurias and raised her<br />

family there. After her husband died, she<br />

wanted to move closer to home. So the family<br />

moved south and purchased the large tract of<br />

land that became La Reforma Ranch.<br />

The ranch was given its unusual name<br />

because most of the ranches in the area were<br />

named after Catholic saints. A traveling<br />

minister had converted Guerra to Methodism<br />

so she named her ranch, La Reforma.<br />

The land was covered in deep sand and is<br />

semi-arid. Mesquite trees, cactus, brush, and<br />

tall grasses provided a habitat for the<br />

indigenous wildlife such as whitetail deer and<br />

quail. It also provided food for the cross bred<br />

cattle raised on the ranches.<br />

When the Barreras died, their section of the<br />

ranch was divided between their fourteen<br />

children. One share of the land went to their<br />

daughter, Romula, who married Hilario Olivarez<br />

and had nine children. When they died in the<br />

1940s the ranch was once again divided.<br />

Their second child, Miguel Olivarez,<br />

received one-ninth of the property. Although<br />

he lived in Mission where he owned Barrera’s<br />

Supply Company, an automotive, hardware,<br />

and plumbing supply, Miguel had a deep love<br />

of the land and a fondness for the raising<br />

cattle. He purchased the land belonging to his<br />

siblings and added to his holdings.<br />

In the 1950s Miguel decided to change the<br />

crossbred cattle operation for a purebred<br />

operation. The King Ranch in Kingsville had<br />

developed a breed of cattle called Santa<br />

Gertrudis, which are especially suited for the<br />

climate. Miguel purchased a few cattle to<br />

experiment and found them to his liking. He<br />

started one of the first Santa Gertrudis herds.<br />

Ben, who now runs the ranch, has developed<br />

the herd into some of the finest Santa Gertrudis<br />

around, winning awards at local, state, and<br />

national competitions. Because it is recognized as<br />

a leading South Texas ranch, the Olivarez brand<br />

was burned into the wall of the new agriculture<br />

building at Texas A&M several years ago.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

370


The new millennium brought a new name<br />

to Hidalgo Federal Credit Union: Security<br />

1st Federal Credit Union. Though now diversified<br />

to serve more than eighty select<br />

employee groups, Security 1st originated in<br />

1947 to benefit civilian federal employees.<br />

Ned Jackson, Robert McDonald, and three<br />

others spurred the establishment of Hidalgo<br />

Federal Credit Union that opened in August<br />

1947 in Jackson’s home in Pharr. Jackson<br />

served as president for nine years while<br />

McDonald was the first secretary-treasurer.<br />

Back then, the maximum limit on an unsecured<br />

loan was $100. Within ten years, HFCU<br />

had grown to 520 members, moved to McAllen,<br />

and hired a part-time employee. By 1968, assets<br />

had climbed to $1 million with members<br />

receiving six percent dividends and a fifteen<br />

percent interest refund.<br />

In the 1970s, the need for funds to meet the<br />

growing loan demand prompted changes in the<br />

charter regarding membership: state employees<br />

in Hidalgo and Starr Counties were added. The<br />

first Weslaco branch opened in 1979.<br />

Through the 1980s, Hidalgo Federal added<br />

services such as direct deposit, money market<br />

accounts, night depository, drive-thru banking,<br />

credit cards, automated teller machines, and<br />

insurance services. Loan policies were broadened<br />

to include mortgages, guaranteed student loans,<br />

and home improvement loans. While other<br />

financial institutions faced difficult conditions,<br />

Hidalgo Federal increased its membership<br />

through mergers. Regional company credit<br />

unions including Burton Auto Employees, Coca-<br />

Cola of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Knapp Memorial<br />

Medical Center, Varmicon Industries Employees,<br />

Postal Employees and Mission Teachers Federal<br />

Credit Unions, joined forces with HFCU.<br />

By 1990, Hidalgo Federal had emerged as a<br />

vital financial institution with assets over $40<br />

million and $20.67 million in outstanding<br />

loans. Today, Security 1st’s McAllen headquarters<br />

stands in the heart of the city’s financial<br />

and business district.<br />

“We are focused on providing our membership<br />

with security of their funds as well as efficient<br />

and cost-effective financial services,” says<br />

President and CEO Al Beltran. He recognizes<br />

that communication, education, and delivery of<br />

financial services through electronic mediums<br />

are essentials for customer satisfaction.<br />

Given the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s economic<br />

growth, Security 1st plans to expand across<br />

the four county area, providing convenience<br />

to its members while adhering to the credit<br />

union philosophy of “people helping people.”<br />

Even with over seventy employees and five<br />

branches, Beltran says “Security 1st Federal<br />

Credit Union will never lose sight of taking care<br />

of its members, their assets and their financial<br />

well-being. Security 1st’s new name reflects its<br />

years of financial soundness and steady growth<br />

directed at meeting its members’ needs.”<br />

SECURITY 1ST<br />

FEDERAL<br />

CREDIT UNION<br />

FORMERLY<br />

HIDALGO<br />

FEDERAL<br />

CREDIT UNION<br />

✧<br />

Above: In 1947, Ned Jackson founded<br />

Hidalgo Federal Credit Union, known today<br />

as Security 1st Federal Credit Union.<br />

Below: Security 1st Federal Credit Union<br />

Management Team. Standing (left to right):<br />

Vice President of Marketing Annette<br />

Espinoza, President and CEO Al Beltran,<br />

Chief Financial Officer Martin Fraering,<br />

and Assistant Vice President of Human<br />

Relations Sandie Vandever. Seated (left to<br />

right): Vice President of Lending Norfelia<br />

Garza, Vice President of Accounting Terry<br />

Richards, and Vice President of Operations<br />

Cindy Ramos.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

371


THE WALSH<br />

FAMILY &<br />

MISSION<br />

SHIPPERS, INC.<br />

Born in Wichita Falls, Texas, in 1912, Jim<br />

Walsh moved with his family to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> in 1925. His father Emmett Walsh, a<br />

master carpenter, built many churches across<br />

the <strong>Valley</strong>. In 1936 Jim married Edna Lee Platt,<br />

the daughter of successful San Juan<br />

businessman and realtor Floyd Platt. After<br />

years of employment with the McAllen Citrus<br />

Association and the federal government, Jim<br />

began his entrepreneurial career in 1948 in the<br />

cotton business and developed an outstanding<br />

reputation as a fair and honest businessman.<br />

He was elected president of both the <strong>Valley</strong> and<br />

Texas Cotton Ginners Association.<br />

In 1953, Jim Walsh purchased Mission Fruit<br />

& Vegetable, Inc., and began shipping tomatoes<br />

and onions. The name was later changed to<br />

Mission Shippers, which is now synonymous<br />

with the Texas citrus industry. Jim was a founding<br />

member of Citrus Committee of the Texas Citrus<br />

and Vegetable Association and eventually served<br />

as director and president. In recognition of his<br />

contributions to the citrus industry, the Texas<br />

Citrus Fiesta in 1971 crowned him King Citrus,<br />

starting a family tradition. His sons Richard and<br />

Pat were similarly honored in 1979 and 1989,<br />

respectively. Jim was named to the Texas Produce<br />

Hall of Fame in 1989.<br />

Jim retired in 1990, leaving Mission<br />

Shippers in the capable hands of his adult<br />

children: Pat, Buddy, Richard, Bill, Barbara, and<br />

Judy. Each has lent distinctive and considerable<br />

talents to help the family business prosper. Jim<br />

died in 1995 and is survived by his six children,<br />

24 grandchildren, and 18 great-grandchildren.<br />

Mission, Texas, is known as the “Home of<br />

the Grapefruit,” and Mission Shippers helped<br />

establish this reputation. Shipping two million<br />

boxes of Texas citrus annually, Mission Shippers<br />

is one of the <strong>Valley</strong>’s largest citrus packers.<br />

Located on twenty-two acres, the company has<br />

over 120,000 square feet of receiving, packing,<br />

shipping, and cold storage facilities. <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> citrus, under the Mission Shippers label,<br />

is distributed nationwide. Mission Shippers<br />

supplies Texas citrus for Harry & David,<br />

America’s largest gift fruit business. In addition,<br />

Mission Shippers maintains its own high-profile<br />

gift fruit business.<br />

Jim Walsh’s legacy lives on through his<br />

children as they strive to carry on the dream<br />

of their remarkable father. Guided by the<br />

paternal spirit of this pioneer of the citrus<br />

industry, they have positioned Mission<br />

Shippers to continue on its path of excellence.<br />

✧<br />

Above: Seen with the first bale of cotton in<br />

1952 are (from left to right) Jim Walsh,<br />

Dan Caughlin, and Gus Davis.<br />

Bottom: The new Walsh generation at<br />

Mission Shippers in 2001 (from left to<br />

right): Richard, Bill, Pat, Buddy, Barbara,<br />

and Judy.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

372


One more year will mark half a century of<br />

activity for Texair Company, Inc., in the air<br />

conditioning industry. Elmer, Calvin and Marge<br />

Bentsen chartered Texair March 1, 1952, in<br />

Pharr, Texas. Neil Madeley (engineering), Bill<br />

Kennedy (sales), and Mickey Alleyn (service and<br />

installation) made up the operating team. Neil<br />

and Bill left soon to establish Coastal<br />

Engineering. Shortly, Bob Helbing came aboard<br />

to handle engineering and sales, with Mickey in<br />

service and installation.<br />

Bob and Mickey began buying Texair stock<br />

in 1960. Jim Webb came aboard in 1968 and<br />

worked up to service manager. Bob and Mickey<br />

negotiated a buyout with Calvin in 1973, and<br />

brought Jim in as a partner.<br />

Texair began operation from the historic<br />

Texan Hotel Building in Pharr, and then built<br />

at 1714 South Tenth Street (now the Inter<br />

National Bank), McAllen, in 1960. In 1976<br />

Texair built the present location at 2201 West<br />

Expressway, McAllen.<br />

Sales began with Servel gas-fired equipment,<br />

gradually moving to electric with U.S. Airco<br />

and Westinghouse. The company also became<br />

involved with Mathes and the gas engine-driven<br />

Weatherbuster. Only those who are closely<br />

associated with this industry can appreciate the<br />

challenge presented by Servel, Mathes and<br />

Weatherbuster. Texair became a Carrier dealer<br />

in 1965 and moved into mechanical<br />

contracting, which involved larger and more<br />

complex projects.<br />

The company is proud to have air conditioned<br />

two of McAllen’s three “sky scrapers,” together<br />

with many other significant projects, such as<br />

McAllen, Harlingen and Brownsville Airports;<br />

original Edinburg Hospital; Edinburg Court<br />

House expansion; both McAllen City Halls,<br />

numerous schools; and manufacturing facilities.<br />

Four of the most challenging projects were:<br />

• Texas State Bank Tower: A twelve-story<br />

high-rise with two 270-ton screw-type<br />

chillers located on the roof.<br />

• University of Texas-Pan American: one<br />

1500-ton and one 700-ton centrifugal<br />

chiller.<br />

• Texas Commerce Bank (now Chase Bank):<br />

An eleven-story high-rise with two 320-ton<br />

centrifugal-type chillers located in the<br />

basement.<br />

• McAllen High School: A “Total Energy” system<br />

with two 1,100-HP gas turbines generating the<br />

school’s power. Waste turbine exhaust heat<br />

produced steam feeding a five-hundred-ton<br />

absorption chiller for air conditioning.<br />

In 1980 Texair built the first 100-ton<br />

emergency, portable chiller for rent in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Today the company has a fleet of<br />

seven rental units ranging from 40 to 175 tons.<br />

Texair has established an enviable reputation<br />

for top quality installation and service, together<br />

with fair and honest business practices.<br />

Customers can always speak directly with Bob,<br />

Mickey or Jim. This policy has been a hallmark<br />

for the company’s success. Texair’s owners<br />

pledge to continue providing the area’s most<br />

qualified, competent service and installation<br />

organization as they meet the challenge of<br />

change in the construction industry, and to<br />

continue emphasis on the safety and well being<br />

of their employees and the community.<br />

✧<br />

Below: Texair’s building at 2201 West<br />

Expressway in McAllen.<br />

Bottom: Jim, Mickey, and Bob with 175-ton<br />

Portable Chiller # 7.<br />

TEXAIR<br />

COMPANY,<br />

INC.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

373


JONES,<br />

GALLIGAN,<br />

KEY &<br />

LOZANO,<br />

L.L.P.<br />

✧<br />

Seated (from left): Matthew L. Jones,<br />

Julie Crockett Graham, Anita G. Lozano,<br />

Rebecca Gay Jones, and Paul M. Guinn.<br />

Standing (from left): Lance A. Kirby,<br />

Forrest L. “Champ” Jones, Robert L.<br />

Galligan, Terry D. Key, and<br />

Mark W. Farris.<br />

The law firm of Jones, Galligan, Key &<br />

Lozano, L.L.P. strives to reach the best and<br />

most efficient resolution of any matter for its<br />

clients. “We identify the main issue, whether it<br />

be in law or in fact, and attempt to resolve the<br />

issue as quickly as possible which results in a<br />

reduction of cost and exposure for our client,”<br />

says Forrest L. Jones, who attributes the firm’s<br />

success to this strategy.<br />

Founded in 1984 by Forrest L. Jones and<br />

Robert L. Galligan, the Weslaco firm’s name<br />

now reflects the addition of partners Terry D.<br />

Key in 1986 and Anita G. Lozano in 1996.<br />

Half of Jones, Galligan, Key & Lozano’s<br />

roots are in real estate and business law, two<br />

areas that have enabled the firm to participate<br />

in the development of Weslaco and the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

The balance of the firm’s expertise is in litigation,<br />

particularly general civil defense and<br />

school law. The firm represents diverse private<br />

and commercial clients, including banks, agricultural<br />

interests, school districts, and utilities.<br />

Managing partner Forrest L. Jones heads<br />

the non-litigation section, specializing in business,<br />

real estate, and probate law. A member of<br />

a pioneer <strong>Valley</strong> family, Jones attended<br />

Southern Methodist University, earning his<br />

J.D. degree in 1965. He has practiced law in<br />

the Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> since then, being named<br />

“Young Lawyer of the Year” by the Texas Young<br />

Lawyers Association in 1972 and was president<br />

of the Hidalgo County Bar Association in<br />

1978. He is currently chairman of the board of<br />

directors of Alamo Bank of Texas.<br />

Robert L. Galligan received his J.D. degree<br />

in 1973 from St. Mary’s University and has<br />

managed the litigation side of the firm since its<br />

founding. He has been associated with Jones in<br />

the practice of law since 1975, except for a<br />

two-year period when he was Associate<br />

Professor of Law at St. Mary’s. Galligan has<br />

served as director of the Hidalgo County Bar<br />

Association and is currently a director of City<br />

National Bank in Weslaco.<br />

Terry D. Key earned his law degree from<br />

Baylor University in 1975 and practiced law<br />

in McAllen until 1984 when he joined Jones<br />

and Galligan. A member of the Texas Trial<br />

Lawyers Association, he has served as director<br />

of the Hidalgo County Bar Association.<br />

Anita G. Lozano, a Weslaco native,<br />

received her J.D. degree from the University<br />

of Texas, Austin, in 1987. She has served as a<br />

director and as secretary of the Hidalgo<br />

County Bar Association.<br />

Since 1991, Jones, Galligan, Key & Lozano<br />

has welcomed six associate attorneys to the<br />

firm: Julie Crockett Graham, Mark W. Farris,<br />

Matthew L. Jones, Lance A. Kirby, Rebecca<br />

Gay Jones, and Paul M. Guinn.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

374


The City of Alamo was incorporated on April<br />

26, 1924, through an election in the city commission-four<br />

years after First State Bank of<br />

Alamo opened its doors for business. When it<br />

was chartered, the bank held $25,000 in capital<br />

stock, 250 shares offered at $100 each. The<br />

largest shareholder was George L. Jones with<br />

seventy-one shares; Renfro B. Creager held sixty<br />

shares. The first board of directors included E.<br />

H. Reichert, George L. Jones, C. A. Phillips, W.<br />

E. Boehme, and Renfro B. Creager.<br />

The bank weathered the Great Depression<br />

and numerous economic downturns, maintaining<br />

a philosophy of conservative but<br />

steady growth. By 1951, capital stock had<br />

increased to $75,000, deposits to $225,000.<br />

In 1965, ownership was changed when a<br />

group of individuals from Brownsville purchased<br />

the bank from the owners, including the<br />

Knapps, one of Alamo’s pioneer families.<br />

Hurricane Beulah, in 1968, was another<br />

economic blow, but Alamo Bank continued its<br />

steady growth. In the early 1970s, a group of<br />

investors from Hidalgo County purchased the<br />

bank from the Brownsville owners. In 1974 the<br />

name of the bank was changed to Alamo Bank<br />

of Texas.<br />

The 1980s saw many banks fail in Texas;<br />

however, Alamo Bank’s assets have continued<br />

to grow from $60 million in 1986 to its<br />

present $170 million.<br />

In the year 2000, the members of the Board<br />

of Directors are: Truman Angel, Efraim Barrera,<br />

James C. Brown, Jr., Michael F. Coggins, Terry<br />

Gray, Robert N. Johnson, Forrest L. Jones, S.<br />

Foss Jones, Marvin Kautsch, Robert L. Lozano,<br />

Ira Matt, Ben D. Olivarez, E. M. (Bud) Payne,<br />

M. D. (Ronnie) Round, and President and CEO<br />

M. Allen Shields III.<br />

On February 17, 2001, Alamo Bank celebrated<br />

its eighty-first anniversary, making it the<br />

oldest locally-owned and operated bank in the<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> with seven convenient locations (and two<br />

off-premises ATMs.) The bank will continue<br />

expanding to new locations to meet the needs of<br />

the phenomenal growth of <strong>Valley</strong> business.<br />

Always dedicated to upholding the ideals of the<br />

founders, Alamo Bank constantly implements<br />

innovative new financial services and always<br />

offers its customers competitive rates.<br />

ALAMO BANK<br />

OF TEXAS<br />

✧<br />

Above: Alamo Bank is the oldest locallyowned<br />

bank in the <strong>Valley</strong> with seven<br />

convenient locations.<br />

Left: This was the C. H. Swallow Land Office.<br />

After J. P. Blalock founded Ebenezer, he<br />

discovered there was a lack of water supply<br />

for the railroad company’s boilers. The<br />

community then moved east, and a series<br />

of name changes followed, including<br />

Swallow, Forum, and , finally, the current<br />

name, Alamo.<br />

PHOTO COURTESY OF BRIAN ROBERTSON<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

375


RIO GRANDE<br />

VALLEY SUGAR<br />

GROWERS, INC.<br />

The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers, Inc.<br />

processes more than a million tons of sugarcane<br />

annually, utilizing a sophisticated and<br />

highly coordinated process, requiring the<br />

cooperation of growers, employees, suppliers,<br />

and the general public. Today’s procedures are<br />

vastly different from those used here in the<br />

nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Five<br />

major sugar mills operated in the area by 1913,<br />

but, by 1921, the last mill closed, a victim<br />

of adverse economic and political conditions<br />

following World War I.<br />

In the early 1960s, the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong>’s combination of subtropical climate,<br />

fertile soils and excellent irrigation system again<br />

created interest in sugarcane. The Texas<br />

Agricultural Experiment Station in Weslaco<br />

and the U.S. Department of Agriculture began<br />

a ten-year study confirming a high economic<br />

potential for the crop, and, in 1970, over a<br />

hundred farmers formed a cooperative. Each<br />

grower/member pledged funding and cropland<br />

toward sugarcane culture, the construction of a<br />

sugar mill, purchase of equipment, and hiring<br />

of qualified personnel. The $28 million mill<br />

was completed in 1973 and the first year’s<br />

harvest began.<br />

Each grower/member is responsible for<br />

planting and caring for the sugarcane, which<br />

requires at least twelve months from planting<br />

to maturity. The crop is mechanically harvested,<br />

chopped in foot-long pieces, and dropped into<br />

specially designed “boxes” holding ten tons<br />

each. These boxes are transported by field<br />

tractor to a transfer point, hoisted onto highway<br />

trucks and delivered to the mill. A computerized<br />

process allows identification of the farmer who<br />

owns each load.<br />

At the mill, each box is dumped onto a<br />

moving conveyor, the cane is washed, crushed<br />

by a series of large rollers, and the crushed<br />

cane is used as fuel to generate steam and<br />

electricity. Extracted juice is heated for<br />

clarification, and concentrated into heavy<br />

syrup that is heated in vacuum pans holding<br />

14,000 gallons each. Sugar crystals produced<br />

in the syrup are separated from the molasses by<br />

a high-speed centrifuge.<br />

The raw sugar (750-1,000 tons daily) is<br />

conveyed to a warehouse, and the blackstrap<br />

molasses is pumped into one of several<br />

million-gallon storage tanks. Raw sugar is<br />

sold and shipped by barge to a refinery. The<br />

molasses is sold as cattle feed and shipped by<br />

rail or highway tanker.<br />

The co-op produces 150,000 tons of raw<br />

sugar and 55,000 tons of blackstrap molasses<br />

each year, has a total operating budget of over<br />

$24 million, an annual payroll exceeding $9<br />

million, and employs 240 permanent and an<br />

additional 330 seasonal personnel.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

376


BEST WESTERN<br />

PALM AIRE<br />

HOTEL &<br />

SUITES<br />

Set amid lush, tropical landscaping, the<br />

Best Western Palm Aire Hotel & Suites in<br />

Weslaco offers resort style amenities to<br />

business and leisure travelers. On their<br />

arrival, guests receive a unique welcome from<br />

the Palm Aire’s two resident blue-headed<br />

Amazon parrots. Window boutiques brighten<br />

the lobby with changing displays from the<br />

mid-<strong>Valley</strong>’s leading clothiers. It’s easy for<br />

guests to savor the feeling of having arrived.<br />

Palm Aire’s full service health club is open<br />

to all hotel guests and members. They can<br />

enjoy three swimming pools, the steam and<br />

sauna rooms, indoor racquetball, hot and cold<br />

spas, a tennis court, complete workout equipment<br />

and a shuffleboard court. After the exercise<br />

comes pampering time with visits to<br />

shops within the hotel: the massage therapist<br />

or the beauty salon and barbershop. The<br />

pleasures of the Palm Aire include browsing at<br />

the Klein Gray Trading Company, a gift shop<br />

that offers keepsakes and artifacts of South<br />

Texas and Mexico. Enterprise Rent-A-Car also<br />

maintains an office at the hotel.<br />

Palm Aire satisfies its guests’ quests for good<br />

food and entertainment right on the premises.<br />

The Courtyard Restaurant features a unique<br />

cook-to-order breakfast buffet, a buffet or<br />

menu lunch and a full service dinner. The wine<br />

selection is large and inviting. The Courtyard<br />

Lounge presents a spectrum of live music<br />

Friday and Saturday evenings.<br />

The Palm Aire’s 193 rooms include 60 tworoom<br />

suites complete with microwave and<br />

refrigerator and 121 rooms equipped with<br />

either two queen beds or one king bed. Every<br />

room has a coffee maker. The hotel also offers<br />

twelve fully furnished apartments with two<br />

bedrooms and two baths.<br />

Palm Aire gladly puts its event planning<br />

services to work to arrange seamless, wellorganized<br />

events for businesses and groups<br />

using their five meeting spaces. For small<br />

meetings of 20 to large sessions for 400<br />

people, the staff handles the details including<br />

catering. The hotel also provides off-premise<br />

catering from their mid-valley location to<br />

anywhere in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />

Weslaco is close to cultural, historical, and<br />

recreational attractions of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

<strong>Valley</strong> and Mexico. Palm Aire has developed a<br />

large corporate client base and a strong leisure<br />

market, particularly eco-tourists drawn by the<br />

wildlife in nearby Santa Ana Wildlife Refuge<br />

and Weslaco birding sites. All guests can take<br />

advantage of the hotel’s partnership with<br />

renowned Tierra Santa Golf Club. Golf<br />

packages are available through the hotel.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

377


VILLA DE CORTEZ<br />

✧<br />

Right: Larry and Patti Dittburner.<br />

Below: 1997 Cortez Hotel.<br />

Bottom: 1999 Villa de Cortez.<br />

From its gracious Spanish Colonial Revival<br />

design to its bustling business trade and social<br />

activity, the four-story Villa de Cortez symbolizes<br />

both commercial progress and cultural achievement.<br />

A landmark from the days of steam<br />

engines and passenger trains; it has been transformed<br />

from a dilapidated, seventy-year old relic<br />

to reclaim its former grandeur as the crown jewel<br />

of downtown Weslaco. The restored Villa de<br />

Cortez reopened with a gala New Year’s Eve banquet<br />

and dance on December 31, 1998, exactly<br />

seventy years after its inaugural celebration.<br />

Tours are offered to the public to view the<br />

remarkable transformation from a seedy, dilapidated<br />

building to a showpiece that attracts business<br />

to its tenants, as well as tourists seeking a<br />

peek into the past.<br />

The Villa de Cortez is now a mixed-use office<br />

building whose fresh exterior is enhanced by<br />

palm trees, lavish landscaping, and a magnificent<br />

fountain. Inside the former hotel’s lobby, a<br />

gourmet restaurant serves lunch and dinner on<br />

tables beneath spectacular crystal chandeliers<br />

and ornate vaulted ceilings. A traditional<br />

Mexican restaurant, Old West-style barbershop<br />

and a fine jeweler share the first floor.<br />

Realizing that the existing seventy-five bedrooms<br />

could not compete in today’s market,<br />

the owners, Larry and Patti Dittburner, transformed<br />

the deteriorated nine-by-twelve foot<br />

rooms into deluxe office suites on the third and<br />

fourth floors. They remodeled the second floor<br />

to include an elegant ballroom in Mexican Villa<br />

decor, as well as a living room, fireplace room,<br />

family room, <strong>Rio</strong> Bravo Cantina, and a wine<br />

cellar. The original ballroom, with its original<br />

wood floor, can be viewed through three brick<br />

arches from the dining room and chapel. It is<br />

decorated with hand-carved pieces from<br />

Mexico—the neighbor just five miles to the<br />

south. Memories of the building’s many associations<br />

with social, economic, and cultural life<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> persist on both sides<br />

of the border through almost three-quarters of<br />

a century.<br />

A comprehensive plan for intense downtown<br />

redevelopment required construction of a<br />

parking facility, and was possible through public-private<br />

cooperation by the Dittburners, the<br />

City of Weslaco, and the Weslaco Economic<br />

Development Corporation. The result is a<br />

multi-story, multi-facet parking garage spanning<br />

a public street to connect with the second<br />

floor of the Villa de Cortez. This diverse facility<br />

has been used for street dances and tailgate parties,<br />

with ample parking on the second floor.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

378


Just as the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> emerged from<br />

the twentieth century as a major metropolitan<br />

market, K-10 has also emerged as a company<br />

with a worldwide reputation for quality safety<br />

products. It seems like only yesterday when, in<br />

fact, it’s been nearly thirty years since Bob and<br />

Lorraine Kolenda first introduced the K-10<br />

Hemisphere ® Safety Mirror to the healthcare<br />

market. This unique dome style mirror, which<br />

provides 360 degrees of total observation, was<br />

rapidly adopted by hospitals for corridor<br />

safety and traffic control monitoring.<br />

Due to the enthusiastic response and demand<br />

for the Hemisphere ® Mirror, K-10 developed<br />

larger Hemispheres ® ranging in sizes up to fortytwo<br />

inches in diameter for use in manufacturing<br />

and warehouse facilities. Through advertising,<br />

trade show marketing, and by word-of-mouth,<br />

government agencies and safety engineers from<br />

General Motors, Procter & Gamble, John Deere,<br />

and many other companies recognized the<br />

improved safety vision provided by the<br />

Hemisphere over traditional convex styles.<br />

Although convex mirrors are still in use today,<br />

they’re primarily used for specific applications<br />

where detailed viewing is required. Convenience<br />

stores, in particular, continue to use K-10<br />

convex mirrors for general surveillance and<br />

merchandise theft control.<br />

Energized by K-10’s success and weary of<br />

Chicago winters, Bob and Lorraine decided to<br />

move their base of operations to the south.<br />

They had visited South Texas previously and<br />

found the semi-tropical climate and lifestyle of<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> to be an ideal place to call<br />

home. In 1979 they made the “big move,”<br />

relocating their headquarters to the <strong>Valley</strong>. Little<br />

did they realize that, in twenty years, K-10<br />

would grow into a promising multi-million<br />

dollar corporation, while the <strong>Valley</strong> itself would<br />

develop into one of the fastest growing regions<br />

of the country.<br />

Inspired and encouraged by K-10’s<br />

continuing growth, Bob began to look for other<br />

markets and new mirror applications. By early<br />

1980 he had developed a revolutionary new<br />

concept for the transportation industry—an<br />

eight-inch diameter mirror designed to<br />

eliminate dangerous blind spots on trucks,<br />

delivery vans, school buses, etc. This new mirror<br />

was christened the K-10 “Eyeball ® ” Mirror.<br />

Bob took the “Eyeball ® ” Mirror to nearly<br />

every major truck fleet in the country and<br />

convinced many of them that the “Eyeball ® ”<br />

could save lives by helping to prevent dangerous<br />

right turn and lane change accidents. The rest is<br />

history, as thousands of drivers from major<br />

fleets, like J. B. Hunt, CFI, Wal-Mart, Watkins,<br />

and others, now benefit from the increased<br />

safety vision of the K-10 “Eyeball ® ” blind spot<br />

mirror which is positioned on the front of their<br />

vehicles for maximum wide-angle viewing.<br />

In 1986 Federal Express also recognized<br />

the safety benefits of the “Eyeball ® ” mirror and<br />

installed it on the left rear corner of their delivery<br />

vehicles as an aid in preventing backingup<br />

accidents. To this day, every FedEx delivery<br />

van continues to have a K-10 “Eyeball ® ” Mirror<br />

installed before it leaves the manufacturer.<br />

In order to maintain its leading position<br />

in the field of safety and surveillance, K-10,<br />

together with its faithful and dedicated<br />

employees, continues to develop new and innovative<br />

mirrors and associated products. Whether<br />

it’s a mirror for the U.S. embassy in Moscow or<br />

a maquiladora manufacturing plant in Mexico,<br />

K-10’s ISO 9002 Certification, a worldwide<br />

Quality Systems Standard, ensures that K-10<br />

will continue to emphasize quality and customer<br />

satisfaction well into the twenty-first century.<br />

K-10 ENTERPRIZES, INC.<br />

✧<br />

Above: The owners and staff of K-10<br />

Enterprizes, Inc. Front row (from left to<br />

right): Joel Rocha, Ruben Urive, Mary<br />

Bindner, and Donna Mudd. Back row: Bob<br />

and Lorraine Kolenda, Maurecio Límon,<br />

Jose Barrera, Armando Urive, and Joel<br />

Geshay, director of operations.<br />

Below: This brochure features K-10’s<br />

Hemisphere ® style mirrors for plant safety<br />

and is an example of several types of<br />

brochures distributed or mailed by K-10 to<br />

prospective customers.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

379


BARBEE-NEUHAUS IMPLEMENT COMPANY<br />

The history of Barbee-Neuhaus Implement<br />

Company stretches back to 1939 in downtown<br />

Weslaco and Clifford Implement Company.<br />

That John Deere dealership became Sherry-<br />

Barbee Implement in 1956 when Kenneth<br />

Sherry and Joe Barbee bought the business<br />

from Kenneth Sherry’s father. In 1961, Earl<br />

Neuhaus, a young Texas A&M University<br />

student, went to work at Sherry-Barbee and,<br />

after graduation, worked in sales for the<br />

company. In 1974 Neuhaus became Joe<br />

Barbee’s partner and the company has been<br />

known as Barbee-Neuhaus Implement<br />

Company ever since. Neuhaus and his sons—<br />

Paul, Lance, and Kevin—bought out the<br />

Barbees in 1996, making the Neuhaus family<br />

sole owners of the business.<br />

Barbee-Neuhaus earned its reputation as the<br />

premier supplier of farm and homeowner<br />

equipment for the lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> and<br />

northern Mexico with superior products and<br />

unequaled service. As agriculture in the <strong>Valley</strong><br />

is changing with farming land decreasing<br />

and development booming, Barbee-Neuhaus<br />

is also changing to meet its customers’ needs.<br />

Diversifying from a concentration on agricultural<br />

equipment, the company now supplies<br />

some construction equipment and a complete<br />

line of lawn care equipment. Industrial<br />

customers select from reliable John Deere<br />

industrial scrapers and skid loaders.<br />

Commercial managers of golf and turf rely on<br />

Barbee-Neuhaus products and services to<br />

handle challenges like football and soccer fields.<br />

Homeowners and farmers have responded to<br />

the safety features, which are engineered into<br />

John Deere mowers, chainsaws, and hand-held<br />

tools. Barbee-Neuhaus sponsors owner-operator<br />

clinics in English and Spanish. Full after-market<br />

service is their specialty, from the smallest lawn<br />

mower to the largest tractor and earthmovers.<br />

Agricultural equipment at Barbee-Neuhaus<br />

has become more fuel efficient, more environmentally<br />

friendly, highly computerized, and<br />

easier to operate. Global positioning systems<br />

integrated into sprayers and harvest equipment<br />

can control the speed and application rates<br />

of fertilizer and chemicals and also monitor<br />

yields of each square foot of ground. More<br />

technologically complex equipment means<br />

more highly skilled service technicians. Field<br />

service trucks now have laptop computer<br />

equipped with diagnostic programs.<br />

In 1976 the company moved to its current<br />

thirty-acre location on Expressway 83 in<br />

Weslaco. Barbee-Neuhaus has since grown<br />

to include eighty-six employees and John<br />

Deere dealerships in Raymondville, Harlingen,<br />

and Brownsville.<br />

Barbee-Neuhaus is one of the few major<br />

farm equipment dealerships in the <strong>Valley</strong> that<br />

is locally owned. Proud of the business’<br />

products, Earl Neuhaus quotes a John Deere<br />

slogan: “Still reliable, still John Deere” and<br />

serviced by the best…Neuhaus and company.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

380


In 1926 the town of Weslaco was seven<br />

years old with a population of thirty-five<br />

hundred. With only forty blocks of paved<br />

streets and not many cars in use, Cleveland<br />

Burton opened Burton Auto Supply, a<br />

wholesale and retail auto parts business, in<br />

Weslaco in August 1926.<br />

After only three years of business, the stock<br />

market crashed and the Great Depression<br />

began. Burton Auto persevered and survived,<br />

thanks in part to the Ford Model-T, known as<br />

the “workingman’s car.” Rather than buy new<br />

cars, <strong>Valley</strong> consumers were repairing their<br />

old cars. The Model-T became the company’s<br />

mascot, and to this day a Model-T is used by<br />

Burton Auto for publicity purposes.<br />

When Burton retired in 1945 he sold the<br />

business to J. S. McManus and Reeves Russell. By<br />

1948, Gene Vaughan and Floyd Ennis had been<br />

added as partners and, by 1958, they had a new<br />

location in Weslaco plus stores in Raymondville,<br />

Brownsville, Harlingen, and McAllen.<br />

With the agricultural and industrial markets<br />

continuing to grow in the <strong>Valley</strong>, a Bearing and<br />

Industrial Division was added. Then<br />

automotive machine shops with qualified<br />

mechanics were opened to perform precision<br />

machine work on parts and engines for<br />

automobiles, trucks, farm equipment, shrimp<br />

boats, and even airplanes. In 1968, Vaughan<br />

bought controlling interest of the Burton<br />

Corporation. New stores were added, and the<br />

Service Parts Warehouse was opened in 1969,<br />

serving Burton stores plus other auto parts<br />

stores in South Texas and Northern Mexico.<br />

The company suffered a major blow in 1983<br />

when Gene Vaughan passed away after<br />

complications from heart surgery. His sons—<br />

Richard, Eddie, and Charlie—assumed active<br />

leadership roles and moved to meet other<br />

challenges of the 1980s. These included the<br />

devaluation of the Mexican peso, several hard<br />

freezes which crippled the <strong>Valley</strong> economy, and<br />

entry into the <strong>Valley</strong> market of big national<br />

chain stores.<br />

To help meet these challenges, Burton joined<br />

a national association of independent auto parts<br />

businesses that allowed it to be competitive<br />

with big national stores. It became a distributor<br />

for air compressors, with a factory-trained staff<br />

of salesmen and technicians to sell and service<br />

air systems in the U.S. and Mexico. Burton also<br />

entered the imported auto parts business and<br />

expanded its truck parts business.<br />

Burton Auto moves into the twenty-first<br />

century with a new ownership team. Richard<br />

Vaughan, Brian Humphreys, Gene Vaughan III,<br />

and Scott Vaughan have acquired the interests<br />

of Eddie and Charlie Vaughan. They are excited<br />

about the possibilities of the new millennium.<br />

They will continue to look for new business<br />

areas in which to expand as they provide the<br />

best selection of quality products at competitive<br />

prices and employees with the technical<br />

expertise to solve their customers’ problems.<br />

BURTON<br />

AUTO SUPPLY<br />

✧<br />

Above: Burton Auto Supply founder<br />

Cleveland Burton.<br />

Below: Gene Vaughan with a 1926<br />

Model-T Ford.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

381


✧<br />

Weaks Martin, original owner and founder<br />

of Weaks Martin Implement Company,<br />

c. 1999.<br />

WEAKS MARTIN<br />

IMPLEMENT COMPANY, INC.<br />

In 1938, Weaks Martin, a Tennessee native<br />

purchased the Mission, Texas, John Deere<br />

dealership known as the Peabody Implement<br />

Company. During World War II, Roscoe<br />

Watkins, an Iowa farm boy assigned to Moore<br />

Army Air Field as an instructor, met Weaks<br />

Martin at the Presbyterian Church in Mission.<br />

Roscoe liked the fact that he didn’t have to<br />

shovel snow in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. He<br />

stayed in the <strong>Valley</strong> after the war, working for<br />

Weaks Martin Implement Company as a parts<br />

man, eventually working his way up to<br />

general manager. In 1972 Martin sold the<br />

tractor dealership to Roscoe Watkins but the<br />

name remained.<br />

Roscoe Watkins’ son John started working<br />

weekends at Weaks Martin when he was<br />

eleven years old and continued part-time<br />

until he graduated from college with a<br />

degree in mechanical engineering in May<br />

1976. In 1979 Roscoe Watkins made his<br />

long-time minority partner Harvey Mutz and<br />

John Watkins equivalent partners.<br />

“I give my Dad a lot of credit for being<br />

a very conservative operator,” said John<br />

Watkins, whose father retired from the<br />

company in 1981. “The fact that we’re still in<br />

business shows how successful he was at<br />

keeping Weaks Martin on a steady course,<br />

never over-extending the company.”<br />

The <strong>Valley</strong> farmer is the primary customer<br />

for Weaks Martin Implement Company. The<br />

company’s tractors and farming implements,<br />

made by John Deere and several small brands,<br />

have been used to raise dryland sorghum,<br />

cotton and grain for over sixty years. The<br />

closely held operation has weathered peso<br />

devaluations, the grain embargo and oil crisis,<br />

agricultural boom years and the urbanization<br />

of farmland to survive and thrive in the<br />

twenty-first century. Weaks Martin is known<br />

for its experienced sales force that<br />

understands the equipment and the<br />

requirements of farming in the region. The<br />

parts department has earned a reputation for<br />

reliability and skill.<br />

Changes in the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> have<br />

brought new customers to Weaks Martin.<br />

One growing segment is lawn and garden<br />

tractors and related tools, in demand as the<br />

population moves on to former farmland.<br />

The expanding bilingual market has also<br />

become a significant sector of the business<br />

with vegetables that were once farmed north<br />

of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> now being raised further<br />

south with equipment from Weaks Martin.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

382


<strong>Valley</strong> Fruit and Vegetable Company, Inc.,<br />

traces its roots back to 1928 when Jack Williams<br />

and his wife, I. M. Weir, started packing gift fruit<br />

in the family’s garage. In 1935, given the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s abundant citrus production,<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable began its commercial<br />

operation in a packing shed at the intersection of<br />

Business 83 and U.S. Highway 281 in Pharr.<br />

Subsequently, Roy Weir, Williams’ stepson,<br />

joined the family partnership. In 1947 the<br />

packing company constructed a new facility on<br />

U.S. 281 in Pharr. Devastating freezes in 1949<br />

and 1951 forced the company to move its<br />

operations to Eustis, Florida, where <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit<br />

Company operated for three years. Returning to<br />

the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, a new partnership was<br />

formed by Roy Weir, Dan Seitz, Sr., Rudy Ogden,<br />

and Dick Eubanks. In 1956 the company built<br />

a cotton gin and expanded the main facility<br />

to process and pack fresh vegetables. With<br />

another major expansion in 1958, <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit &<br />

Vegetable Company became the largest agricultural<br />

packing facility under one roof in the<br />

world. The plant covers approximately 250,000<br />

square feet and includes refrigerated storage and<br />

packaging equipment. In time, the partnership<br />

evolved into <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable Company,<br />

Inc., incorporating in June 1962. Roy Weir and<br />

Dan Seitz, Sr., were the company’s two remaining<br />

shareholders when Dan Seitz, Jr., became a<br />

shareholder in 1971. The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

experienced a major freeze in December 1983,<br />

which reduced the <strong>Valley</strong>’s 75,000-acre citrus<br />

crop by about fifty percent. When Roy Weir and<br />

Dan Seitz, Sr., retired in 1988, Dan Seitz, Jr.,<br />

acquired the company.<br />

In 1989 another freeze ravaged the <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />

decreasing citrus acreage to approximately<br />

14,000 acres. With no citrus production for several<br />

years, the company focused on vegetable<br />

packing and importing produce, resuming citrus<br />

packing in 1992. <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable<br />

Company, Inc., now features <strong>Rio</strong> Star ® grapefruit.<br />

“The <strong>Rio</strong> Star ® grapefruit is unique in its<br />

taste and deep red color. Our tropical climate<br />

and soils make the <strong>Rio</strong> Star ® extremely sweet<br />

and juicy,” say Dan Seitz, Jr.<br />

From September until May, the company is<br />

immersed in fragrant grapefruit from the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. The company’s marketing area<br />

includes retail stores and wholesalers in the<br />

United States and Canada, with some exports to<br />

Western Europe, and the Pacific Rim.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable Company, Inc., also<br />

houses KY FARMS, a gift-packing company that<br />

ships hand-selected fruit direct to consumers<br />

for holiday gifts and special occasions. The<br />

company’s website is www.valleyfruit.com.<br />

✧<br />

VALLEY<br />

FRUIT &<br />

VEGETABLE<br />

COMPANY, INC.<br />

Above: <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit Company, 1935.<br />

Below: <strong>Valley</strong> Fruit Company, 1950.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

383


SEBASTIAN<br />

COTTON &<br />

GRAIN<br />

CORPORATION<br />

✧<br />

Above: The first bale of cotton ginned at<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain Corporation in<br />

1959. From left to right: Dan O’Brien,<br />

Leroy Graham, Weldon Haynes, and<br />

Jack Funk.<br />

Below: Aerial view of Sebastian Cotton &<br />

Grain facilities.<br />

The largest family-owned cotton gin<br />

operating in Texas, Sebastian Cotton & Grain<br />

Corporation serves <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> farmers<br />

from its Willacy County office. The Funk<br />

family, farmers themselves, understands and<br />

meets their customers’ needs by providing full<br />

cotton and grain services including<br />

processing, warehousing and marketing.<br />

Jack Funk who came to the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />

in 1930 with a land excursion party and<br />

purchased land outside Harlingen founded<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain Corporation in 1957.<br />

His son Tommy Funk, Sr., took over the business<br />

in 1980. The third generation of the family, son<br />

Tommy Jr., and son-in-law Scott Matlock, is now<br />

actively involved in managing the company.<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain’s forty-acre facility<br />

includes the gin, an oil mill, and cotton bale<br />

warehouse plus grain elevators in Sebastian,<br />

Progreso and at the Port of Harlingen. As an<br />

independent gin, Sebastian Cotton & Grain<br />

offers its customers farm land rental, cottonseed<br />

feed products, and the capability to catch<br />

cottonseed during ginning and to store it until<br />

planting time. Customers also benefit from<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain’s alliances with the<br />

Beltwide Cotton Marketing Association and<br />

Mexican grain importing companies.<br />

The company’s modern, high volume gin<br />

produces better turnouts while keeping ginning<br />

costs truly competitive, customers report. The<br />

gin processes over 35,000 bales of cotton<br />

annually, producing 15,000 tons of cottonseed.<br />

The oil mill operates nearly year-round with<br />

most of the production going to the Mexican<br />

market. South Texas feedlots and ranchers are<br />

the primary consumers of the mill’s cottonseed<br />

meal products. The company’s grain elevators<br />

have a capacity of five million bushels, much of<br />

which is shipped into Mexico.<br />

Satisfied customers tend to be loyal<br />

customers. Weldon Haynes has been a<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain customer since<br />

1957, Tommy Funk, Sr., points out. Moreover,<br />

sons and grandsons of original customers still<br />

bring their ginning and grain business to the<br />

Sebastian facility. At a time when <strong>Valley</strong> gins<br />

have consolidated and more and more<br />

farmland is urbanized, Sebastian Cotton &<br />

Grain continues to endure and thrive.<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

384


In the mid-1950s, Edinburg had a<br />

population of seventeen thousand, was the<br />

busy county seat of fast-growing Hidalgo<br />

County, the home of Pan American College,<br />

and an agricultural center for fruit and<br />

vegetable processing and packing, cotton<br />

ginning, and general services to agriculture.<br />

Then winter tourists, who had discovered<br />

that the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>’s climate was much<br />

like that of Miami, except that living costs<br />

were considerably below the national average,<br />

began coming to the area in increasing<br />

numbers. Edinburg became the palm-lined<br />

“Gateway to the <strong>Valley</strong>” and began to build<br />

recreational facilities for the visitors.<br />

The major effort to attract tourist business<br />

was heroic. City leaders realized they needed a<br />

resort hotel to attract visitors and to provide<br />

banquet and meeting facilities for Edinburg<br />

citizens. With a simple belief in themselves and<br />

their community, eleven hundred citizens joined<br />

forces to form Edinburg Community Hotel, Inc.,<br />

buy stock, and build the Echo Motor Hotel.<br />

When it opened in the late 1950s, it was<br />

called “The Magic <strong>Valley</strong>’s most outstanding<br />

hotel, beautifully situated in the heart of the<br />

international year-round vacationland.” In<br />

addition to providing an outstanding resort for<br />

tourists, the new hotel provided Edinburg<br />

with distinguished restaurant and banquet<br />

facilities, conference rooms with five-hundredperson-capacity<br />

and a headquarters for many<br />

civic activities.<br />

When Edinburg was first named an “All-<br />

America City” in 1969, the Echo celebrated<br />

along with the city. The hotel, with its beautiful<br />

swimming pool, served as the backdrop for<br />

photographs to publicize the achievement. It<br />

has also joined in similar celebrations in 1995<br />

and 2000, when Edinburg again achieved the<br />

“All-America City” designation.<br />

At the same time that tourism was<br />

increasing in Edinburg, Pan American College<br />

was growing by leaps and bounds. As it<br />

became Pan American University, and then the<br />

University of Texas-Pan American, its<br />

enrollment and influence grew, bringing more<br />

and more professional people to the city and to<br />

the Echo Hotel.<br />

Now privately owned, the Echo continues<br />

to be a gathering place for Edinburg citizens<br />

and visitors. Redecorating and remodeling are<br />

among recent projects. As an example of its<br />

service to the community, the hotel provided a<br />

Sunday meeting place and office space for<br />

Edinburg’s First United Methodist Church<br />

while it was temporarily homeless as a new<br />

church was built.<br />

With Edinburg’s population nearing fifty<br />

thousand, its economy widely diversified, its<br />

county seat busier than ever, and its<br />

recreational activities now including the<br />

Roadrunners’ professional baseball team,<br />

there are a healthy demand for hotel facilities.<br />

The Echo Motor Hotel invites visitors to<br />

stay with them while in Edinburg and citizens<br />

to meet, relax, dine, and enjoy the hotel made<br />

possible by their leaders of the 1950s.<br />

ECHO<br />

HOTEL AND<br />

CONFERENCE<br />

CENTER<br />

✧<br />

Below: Echo Hotel located at 1903 South<br />

Closner. For more information, please call<br />

800-422-0336.<br />

Bottom: Banquet facilities are available for<br />

local civic activities.<br />

THE MARKETPLACE<br />

385


✧<br />

VALLEY<br />

ARMATURE &<br />

Above: Corporate officers for <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Armature & Electric Co. are, seated (from<br />

left to right): Boo Boo Lewis, Sharon<br />

Vanderpool, and Larry Lewis, the firm’s<br />

president. Standing (from left to right) are<br />

sons Kris, Kasey, and Dale Lewis.<br />

Below: <strong>Valley</strong> Armature & Electric Co.<br />

personnel relax in their shop after a busy<br />

day. All strive to offer their industrial<br />

customers a complete service center with the<br />

best quality possible.<br />

ELECTRIC<br />

CO., INC.<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Armature & Electric Co., Inc. was<br />

founded in 1977 by Bobby H. Etchison, K. L.<br />

“Larry” Lewis, Kenneth Taylor, and Jack<br />

Morris as an industrial electric service center<br />

specializing in industrial electric motor repair.<br />

The original facility was located on North<br />

Twenty-third Street in McAllen, Texas.<br />

Before its first expansion in 1982 into a<br />

10,500 square foot facility located at North<br />

McColl and Trenton Roads, Jack Morris<br />

had left the company. As the years passed,<br />

and with the insight and leadership of<br />

then-Vice President K. L. “Larry” Lewis, the<br />

company diversified into many other<br />

industrial services. Larry’s technical background,<br />

pride in craftsmanship, and absolute<br />

insistence on quality have helped the company<br />

to grow.<br />

Larry has been involved through the years<br />

in the industrial electrical apparatus industry.<br />

He worked with Sun Oil Company<br />

(Sunoco) for many years training their<br />

maintenance personnel as part of <strong>Valley</strong><br />

Armature’s educational outreach. He taught<br />

the Sunoco personnel at both their Dallas,<br />

Texas training facility and their Taft,<br />

California facility. He also has been involved<br />

with Electrical Apparatus Service Association<br />

(EASA), which is the worldwide trade<br />

association of industrial electric service<br />

facilities. He served as a district director for<br />

four years, another four years on the executive<br />

board, and as president of the Southwestern<br />

Chapter in 1989-1990.<br />

The company successfully diversified to<br />

include a complete sales force, including<br />

international sales into Mexico, machine<br />

shop, pump, and fabrication divisions and a<br />

complete field services division, including<br />

preventive maintenance programs, along with<br />

engineering and design capabilities.<br />

In 1998-99, Larry Lewis purchased the<br />

corporation’s assets and outstanding shares<br />

and is president of <strong>Valley</strong> Armature &<br />

Electric Co., Inc. His wife Boo Boo is a<br />

corporate officer, as is Sharon Vanderpool,<br />

executive administrator. Dale Lewis, the<br />

oldest son, is operations/shop manager<br />

and son Kris works in production as a<br />

technician. The youngest son, Kasey, attends<br />

college and works part time on special<br />

projects. All strive to offer their industrial<br />

customers a complete service center with the<br />

best quality possible.<br />

For its third major expansion, the<br />

company has purchased a five-acre industrial<br />

site on which it will build a twentythousand-square-foot<br />

facility. The new complex<br />

will accommodate the existing divisions<br />

and will allow for further growth and<br />

development. Completion is targeted for<br />

early 2002.<br />

“Quality first. If better is possible, good is<br />

not enough.”<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

386


THE MARKETPLACE<br />

387


A<br />

A History of San Benito, 110, 111<br />

Abilene, Texas, 125<br />

Abram, Texas, 151<br />

Addington, Stanley, 104<br />

Advance News Journal, 140<br />

Agostadero del Gato Grant, 87<br />

Agostedero del Àlamo (Pasture of the Alamo),<br />

133<br />

Agriculture Discovery Center (Weslaco), 127<br />

Agricultural research agencies (Weslaco), 164<br />

Agua Negra, 112<br />

Agustín I, 28<br />

Al Parker Land Company (La Feria), 121<br />

Al Parker Securities Company (La Feria), 120<br />

Alamia, Teresa Chapa, 67<br />

Alamo Bank of Texas, 134<br />

Alamo Community Church, 135<br />

Alamo Inn Bed and Breakfast, 134<br />

Alamo Land and Sugar Company, 87, 133-134<br />

Alamo News, 135<br />

Alamo River, 14, 18<br />

Alamo Townsite Company, 134<br />

Alamo, Texas, 27, 64, 133-135, 139<br />

Alamo, The, 29-30, 134<br />

Alaniz, Leonardo “Leo Najo”, 148<br />

Aldama, Juan, 24-25<br />

Alice, Texas, 67, 98, 106, 112, 115, 128<br />

Allen, Beatrice, 179<br />

Allen, Gertrude, 179<br />

Allen, Paul, 179<br />

Allen, William, 179<br />

Allen, Willis, 179<br />

Allende, Ignacio, 23-25<br />

Allred, James V., 175<br />

All-<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Airport, 177<br />

aloe vera production, 163, 164<br />

Alvarez, Sara Ann, 123<br />

Álvarez, Juan, 80<br />

Amador, Jose, 165<br />

American Airlines, 177<br />

American Baseball Players Association, 148<br />

American Electric Power, 178<br />

American Land and Irrigation Company, 87,<br />

99<br />

American Legion Border Post 107 (Donna),<br />

132<br />

American Red Cross, 94<br />

American <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Land and Irrigation<br />

Company, 99, 122, 178<br />

Amfels, Inc. (Brownsville), 182<br />

Amistad Dam (Del <strong>Rio</strong>), 100, 168<br />

Amoco Chemicals Corporation, 182<br />

Ampúdia, Pedro de, 32, 33, 37<br />

Ampuero Mission, 7<br />

Anglo Americans, 42<br />

Anglo developers, 159<br />

Annexation to the United States, 34, 35, 70<br />

Anzalduas Diversion Dam (Mission), 168<br />

Anzalduas International Bridge (Mission), 151,<br />

172<br />

Anzalduas Irrigation Canal, 168<br />

INDEX<br />

Apache, The, 54<br />

Archer, O. P., 142, 143<br />

Arista, Mariano, 37<br />

Arizona, 40, 87, 137<br />

Arkansas, 74<br />

Armstrong Ranch, 106<br />

Armstrong, John B., 96<br />

Army of Observation, 35<br />

Arnold, Olga Baxter, 125<br />

Arroyo, Texas, 114<br />

Arroyo Canal Company, 132<br />

Arroyo Colorado, 71, 106, 109, 114-115,<br />

128, 175<br />

Arroyo State Bank, 111<br />

Audiencia de México, 13, 14<br />

Austin, 34, 70, 73, 103, 107, 174<br />

Austin Texas Democrat, 70<br />

Austin, Moses, 27<br />

Austin, Stephen F., 6, 27-28, 87<br />

Avila, Manuela, 129<br />

Avila, P. R., 133<br />

Avila, Severiano, 129<br />

Ayers, Attlee B., 153<br />

Azadores Ranch, 128-129<br />

Azpiazu, Joseph, 138<br />

Aztec Building (San Benito), 111<br />

B<br />

B&P Bridge Company (Progreso), 170<br />

Bagdad, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 22, 46, 49, 50,<br />

70, 74-76<br />

Bailey H. Dunlap Memorial Library (La Feria),<br />

120, 291<br />

Baker, A. Y., 151<br />

Baldridge, Lillian Weems, 102, 118, 139, 140<br />

Ballí, José María, 133<br />

Ballí, Juan José, 21-22, 26<br />

Ballí, Nicolás, 26, 69-70<br />

Ballí Dominguez, Gregoria, 83<br />

bandit raids, 78, 93, 132, 142<br />

Baptist General Convention of Texas, 186<br />

Barbera, Juan Bautista, 149<br />

Barrera Drug Store, 185<br />

Barrera, Cayetano E., 184<br />

Barrera, Cayetano E. III, 184<br />

Barrera, Pedro, 184<br />

Barrett, James L., 123<br />

Barrett, Theodore H., 75<br />

Barrientos, Ramona Valente, 67<br />

Battle of Buena Vista, 39, 42, 48<br />

Battle of La Bolsa, 71-72<br />

Battle of Mier, 33<br />

Battle of Palmito Ranch (Brownsville), 70, 75<br />

Battle of Palo Alto (Brownsville), 37-42, 61<br />

Battle of Resaca de la Palma (Brownsville), 38-<br />

39, 41-42<br />

Battle of San Jacinto, 30, 32<br />

Battle of Santa Gertrudis (Camargo), 61, 81<br />

Battle of The Alamo (San Antonio), 29<br />

Baxter Seed Company (Weslaco), 125<br />

Baxter, Walter H., Jr., 125<br />

Baxter, Walter H., Sr., 125<br />

Bay of San Jacinto, 30<br />

Bazaine, Francois Achille, 81<br />

Beamer, John T., 133<br />

Beaumont, Texas, 128, 130-131<br />

Bee, H. P., 74<br />

Beeville, Texas, 106<br />

Belden, Samuel A., 45<br />

Ben Hur, 41<br />

Benitez, Miguel, 126<br />

Bentsen Development Company (Mission), 147<br />

Bentsen Palm Development Company<br />

(Mission), 150<br />

Bentsen Palm Village, 150<br />

Bentsen <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> State Park, 147,<br />

150<br />

Bentsen, Beryl, 160<br />

Bentsen, Calvin, 90<br />

Bentsen, Elmer, 90, 147<br />

Bentsen, Kenneth, 155<br />

Bentsen, Lloyd, Jr., 148, 160<br />

Bentsen, Lloyd, Sr., 90, 127, 147-148<br />

Bentsen, Peter, 147<br />

Bentsen, Tina, 147<br />

Bessie, 50<br />

Bessie, Texas, 109<br />

Big Bend, Texas, 5<br />

Biggers, Harry, 144<br />

Bill Bunton Auto Supply and Machine, Inc.<br />

(Mercedes), 123<br />

Bixby Station (La Feria), 120<br />

Bixby, W. H., 120<br />

Bixby, Texas 120<br />

Black Bean Lottery (Mier Expedition), 33, 34<br />

Blalock, Peter Ebenezer, 133<br />

Block, Harlon, 108<br />

Boca Chica Beach, 10<br />

Boggus, Lewis, 108<br />

Bonaparte, Joseph, 23<br />

Bonaparte, Napoleon, 23<br />

Border Bank (Hidalgo), 64-65<br />

Border Theater (Mission), 149<br />

Borderland Hardware (Mercedes, Weslaco),<br />

123-124<br />

borderlands, 44, 58, 83<br />

Borginnis, Sarah “The Great Western”, 41-42<br />

Borman, Bill, 137<br />

Borrego, José Vásquez, 17<br />

Bowman, Albert, 42<br />

Bracero Program, 180<br />

Bragg, Braxton, 42<br />

Brand, Othal, 184<br />

Brando, Marlon, 59<br />

Brazos Harbor, 49<br />

Brazos Island, 66, 67, 74, 75<br />

Brazos Santiago Pass, 10, 12, 50, 65-67, 69,<br />

74, 116, 174<br />

Brazos Santiago, 45, 48-50, 86, 95, 174<br />

Breedlove, Cleve, 114<br />

Breedlove, Ura, 114<br />

Briggs and Smith, 141<br />

Briggs, William, 141<br />

Britton, Forbes, 60<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

388


Brooks County, 6, 20<br />

Brown, Jacob, 36, 37<br />

Brown, Kate Purvis, 110<br />

Brown, Scott, 110<br />

Brownsville Art League, 46<br />

Brownsville Deepwater Project, 116<br />

Brownsville Foreign Trade Zone, 118<br />

Brownsville Herald, 105<br />

Brownsville <strong>Historic</strong>al Association, 45, 98<br />

Brownsville Medical Center, 184, 186<br />

Brownsville Municipal Airport, 117, 176<br />

Brownsville Navigation District, 116<br />

Brownsville Public Utilities Board, 179<br />

Brownsville Town Company, 45<br />

Brownsville, Texas, 13, 20, 28, 39-41, 43-50,<br />

52-54, 56-57, 59-60, 67-68, 70-78, 82-86,<br />

90, 93-98, 104,-106, 109, 111-118, 122,<br />

128-130, 138, 160, 166, 169-170, 172,<br />

174-176, 178-179, 182-185, 188, 190<br />

Brownsville-Alice Stage Line, 89<br />

Brownsville-Matamoros International Bridge,<br />

93, 115, 169<br />

Brownsville-South Padre Island International<br />

Airport, 176<br />

Brulay Plantation, 85<br />

Brulay, George, 85-86, 89, 160<br />

Bryan, William Jennings, 145-147<br />

Buchanan, Celeste, 154<br />

Burgos Mountains, 71<br />

Burnet, David G., 30<br />

Bush, George W., 169<br />

Bustamente, Anastasio, 28<br />

Butt, H. E., 108<br />

Butterfly Garden (Alamo), 135<br />

Butterfly Park (Mission), 150<br />

C<br />

Cabeza de Vaca, Alvar Nuñez, 11, 12, 184<br />

Cadereyta, Nuevo León, Mexico, 13, 16<br />

Cage, W. E., 139<br />

California, 31, 39, 40, 42, 45, 46, 87, 137,<br />

147<br />

Calvert, Texas, 126<br />

Camargo, Diego de, 10<br />

Camargo, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 16-20, 22, 33,<br />

39, 46, 48, 54, 56, 60-61, 71, 81, 126, 171<br />

Camarillo, “Kino”, 46<br />

Cambridge, International, 183<br />

Cameron County, 6, 20, 34, 43-44, 68, 73,<br />

77, 84, 90, 104-105, 114, 116, 169, 173,<br />

189<br />

Cameron County Courthouse, 44, 115<br />

Cameron County Hall of Justice, 115<br />

Cameron County Medical Society, 185<br />

Cameron, Ewen, 33, 34, 44<br />

Cameron-Willacy Medical Society, 185<br />

Camille Playhouse, 118,<br />

Camp Llano <strong>Grande</strong>, 94<br />

Campbell, Elouise, 21<br />

Canales, Antonio, 31<br />

Canales, Servando, 72<br />

canning industry, 162<br />

Cano, Antonio, 87<br />

Cano, Mauricia, 87<br />

Cantú, Carlos, 16<br />

Cantú, José Antonio, 145<br />

Capen, E. A., 132<br />

Capisallo Ranch (Mercedes), 122<br />

Capisallo Town and Improvement Company,<br />

122<br />

Capisallo, Texas, 122<br />

Capone, Al, 170<br />

Card, Bill, 184<br />

Cardenas, Juan, 31<br />

Cardenas, Whitis & Stephen (McAllen), 98<br />

Carlos I, 11<br />

Carlota (empress of Mexico), 80-82<br />

Carnestolendas Ranch, 60<br />

Carnestolendas, Texas see <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong><br />

City, Texas<br />

Carranza, Venustiano, 92, 93<br />

Carrizo, The, 6, 7<br />

Carthage, Texas, 181<br />

Carthage Hydrocol, Inc. (Brownsville), 181-<br />

182<br />

Casa Blanca Hotel, 94<br />

Casa de Palmas Hotel (McAllen), 143<br />

Castillo de la Nueva Apolonia, 91<br />

Castillo Maldonado, Alonso del , 11<br />

Castle of Perote (Mexico), 33, 34<br />

Catholic Diocese of Brownsville, 145<br />

Cavalry of Christ, 47, 145<br />

Cavazos, Doña Refugio, 71<br />

Cavazos, Francisca, 45<br />

Cavazos, Lino, 128<br />

Cavazos, María Josefa, 45<br />

Cavazos Gallegos, Angelita, 128<br />

Celaya Brothers, 77<br />

Celaya, Simon, 67<br />

Central Park (Alamo), 135<br />

Central Power and Light Company, 111, 178<br />

Centralist system (Mexico), 29, 31<br />

Cerralvo, Nuevo Léon, Mexico, 18, 33<br />

Challenger Learning Center (San Benito), 112<br />

Chamberlain, Hiram, 47, 48<br />

Champion Building (Port Isabel), 67<br />

Champion Hall, 118<br />

Champion Store (Run), 129<br />

Champion Store (Port Isabel), 67-69<br />

Champion, A. A., 118<br />

Champion, Andrew, Jr., 129<br />

Champion, Andrew, Sr., 129<br />

Champion, Charles, 67-68, 85<br />

Champion, David, 133<br />

Champion, Ellen, 129<br />

Chapa, José Florencio de, 18<br />

Chapin, Texas, 64, 90, 136, 151-152<br />

Chapin, D. B., 136, 151-152<br />

Chapultepec Palace (Mexico), 81<br />

Charles III, 22<br />

Charco Hondo, 112<br />

Charles Stillman 1810-1875, 45<br />

Charro Days (Brownsville), 117, 118<br />

Chatfield, W. H., 63, 64, 84<br />

Chattelle, Miriam Swann, 113<br />

Chicago and Eastern Illinois Railroad<br />

Company, 104<br />

Chihuahua, Mexico, 35, 81<br />

Chisholm Trail, 52-53, 56, 164<br />

Cinco de Mayo, 80<br />

Cisneros Drugstore, 178<br />

citrus production, 147, 161, 162, 181<br />

City National Bank (Weslaco), 126<br />

Ciudad Acuña, Coahuila, Mexico, 168<br />

Ciudad Mante, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 91<br />

Ciudad Miguel Alemán, Tamaulipas, Mexico,<br />

59, 60<br />

Ciudad Victoria, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 26, 39,<br />

71, 169<br />

Civil War, 10, 22, 41, 45, 49, 52-54, 61-62,<br />

66, 69-70, 72-78, 80, 87, 128, 174<br />

Civil War cotton trade, 22, 49, 53, 55, 66, 70,<br />

73-76<br />

Clark, R. L., 126<br />

Clarksville, Texas, 50, 74, 76<br />

Claudio, Ramon, 13, 22<br />

Clos, José María, 47<br />

Closner, James J., 151<br />

Closner, John, 83, 89, 104, 128, 136-137,<br />

142, 151-152, 160, 178<br />

Coahuila y Texas, 28<br />

Coahuila, Mexico, 15, 17, 18, 28, 31, 35, 168<br />

Coahuiltecan, The, 6, 7<br />

Cobolini, Louis, 116<br />

Cole, A. B., 176<br />

Cole, George, 170<br />

Colegio de San Nicolás Obispo, 24-25<br />

College of Zacatecas, 15<br />

Collier, W. G., 128<br />

Colonel Cross, 48<br />

Columbus, Christopher, 9, 69<br />

Columbus, New Mexico, 93<br />

Combes, Fred, 105<br />

Combes, Joe, 106<br />

Combes, Texas, 102, 105-106<br />

Comonfort, Ignacio, 80<br />

Concepción de Carricitos Grant, 20, 90<br />

Conde, Carlos D., 111<br />

Confederacy, The, 22, 41, 52, 55, 73-75<br />

Confederate Air Force World War II Museum<br />

(Brownsville), 176-177<br />

Congregación del Refugio, 26<br />

Continental Airlines, 176, 177<br />

Continental Divide, 5<br />

Convent of the Incarnate Word and Blessed<br />

Sacrament, 47<br />

Conway, John J., 145, 146, 147<br />

corn production, 163<br />

Corpus Christi, 12, 35-36, 41, 43, 50, 53, 55,<br />

59, 66-67, 69, 72, 77, 86, 95-97, 105, 107-<br />

108, 112, 114-115, 152, 173, 175, 178,<br />

188<br />

Corregidora Garden (Querétaro), 23<br />

Correo del Río Bravo del Norte, 31<br />

Cortés, Hernán, 9-11<br />

Cortez Hotel (Weslaco), 125, 126<br />

Cortina Wars, 70-71<br />

Cortina, Juan Nepomuceno, 41, 70-73, 82<br />

Corvette, 48<br />

Cos, Martín Perfecto de, 29<br />

cotton production, 162-163<br />

Couch, Dan R., 124<br />

Couch, Edward C., 124-125, 156<br />

Couch, R. C., 124<br />

Cox, Noah, 58<br />

Creager, R. B., 134<br />

creoles, 23, 24, 25<br />

Crow, Frank G., 142<br />

INDEX<br />

389


Cruse, W. W., 128<br />

Cryer, John, 87<br />

Cuba, 9, 10<br />

Cuervo, José Tienda de, 19<br />

Cuevitas, 151, 180<br />

Culiacán, Mexico, 11<br />

D<br />

Dallas Cowboys, 148-149<br />

Dallas, Texas, 120, 126, 147-148, 156, 176<br />

Daniel Webster, 73<br />

Davidson Hotel (Raymondville), 103-104<br />

Davis Landing (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 44, 60<br />

Davis, Dale, 126<br />

Davis, Henry Clay, 60<br />

Davis, Jefferson, 41<br />

Dawson, Cleo, 146<br />

Day, W. D., 152<br />

de la Garza, E. “Kika”, 148, 160, 165<br />

de la Garza, Francisco, 60<br />

de la Garza, José Salvador, 71<br />

de la Peña, Silverio, 62<br />

de la Rosa, Hector “Buddy”, 125<br />

de León, Alonzo, 13-14<br />

de León, Doña Juána Ponce, 12<br />

de los Dolores, Miguel Santa María, 7<br />

Dean Porter Park, 118<br />

DeJulio, Rick, 144<br />

Del <strong>Rio</strong>, Texas, 168<br />

del Valle, Mamie Neale, 46<br />

Delta Area, 155-156<br />

Delta Lake (Monte Alto), 104, 158<br />

Delta Orchard Clubhouse (Monte Alto), 104-<br />

105, 158<br />

Devil’s River, 5, 168<br />

Diaz Ordaz, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 171<br />

Diaz, Texas see Mercedes, Texas<br />

Diaz, Texas see San Benito, Texas<br />

Díaz, Porfirio, 72, 80, 82-83, 91-92, 122, 132<br />

Dieciséis de Septiembre, 25, 133<br />

Dishman, James, 105, 106<br />

Dittburner, Larry, 126<br />

Dittburner, Patti, 126<br />

Divine Providence Hospital, 185<br />

Dobson, James C., 111<br />

Dodge City, Kansas, 103<br />

Doffing, Nick, 134<br />

Dolly Vinsant Memorial Hospital (San Benito),<br />

111, 186<br />

Dolores, Guanajuato, Mexico, 24<br />

Dolores, Texas, 18, 24, 56<br />

Dominguez, Miguel, 23<br />

Donna Hidalgo County No. 1 Irrigation<br />

District, 132<br />

Donna Hooks Fletcher <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum,<br />

131, 133<br />

Donna Hotel, 131-132<br />

Donna Independent School District, 130, 133<br />

Donna Sugar Mill, 132<br />

Donna Women’s Club, 132<br />

Donna, Texas, 27, 87, 99, 124, 128-133, 160,<br />

162, 168, 172<br />

Dorantes, Andrés, 11<br />

Dorcas Society (San Juan), 137<br />

Doss, Porter, 126<br />

Dougherty, Ada, 83<br />

Dougherty, Edward, 87<br />

Dougherty, James L., 89<br />

Dougherty, Walter, 151<br />

Driscoll Children’s Hospital (Corpus Christi),<br />

188<br />

Driscoll Ranch, 96<br />

Driscoll, Robert, 96<br />

Driscoll, Robert, Jr., 96<br />

Driscoll, Robert, Sr., 96<br />

Dunlap, Bailey H., Sr., 120<br />

Dunn, Pat, 69<br />

Durango, Mexico, 22, 31<br />

E<br />

E. Manautou Dry Goods, 132<br />

Earhart, Amelia, 117, 176<br />

Earl C. Sams Foundation, 118, 190<br />

Earl C. Sams Foundation gifts, 118<br />

East Donna, Texas, 129<br />

East McAllen, Texas, 141<br />

Ebenezer, Texas see Alamo, Texas<br />

Echo Motor Hotel (Edinburg), 154<br />

Edcouch Enterprise, 156<br />

Edcouch, Texas, 87, 123, 125, 155-157<br />

Edcouch-Elsa High School, 157<br />

Edcouch-Elsa Independent School District,<br />

156-157<br />

Edinburg Chamber of Commerce, 155<br />

Edinburg Economic Development Corporation,<br />

155<br />

Edinburg Hospital, 187<br />

Edinburg International Airport, 177<br />

Edinburg Junior College, 148, 154<br />

Edinburg Regional Medical Center, 187<br />

Edinburg Regional Medical Plaza 1, 187<br />

Edinburg Roadrunners, 155<br />

Edinburg School District, 154<br />

Edinburg, Texas, 7, 44, 64, 67, 78, 83, 86,<br />

90, 95-98, 102, 104, 136, 138, 140, 147,<br />

149, 151, 153-155, 173-174, 179-180,<br />

182, 187<br />

Edinburgh, Texas see Hidalgo, Texas<br />

Edith L. Whipple Memorial Library (Los<br />

Fresnos), 112-113<br />

Eilers, Kenneth, 124<br />

Eilers, Robert, 124<br />

Eisenhower, Dwight D., 123, 147, 166-167<br />

El Cantaro Ford, 14, 18<br />

El Desierto de los Muertos (The Desert of the<br />

Dead), 44<br />

El Frontón de Santa Isabel, 65<br />

El Horcón Tract, 99<br />

El Paso, Texas, 42, 93, 172<br />

El Ranchito, 111<br />

El Sal del Rey/La Sal Del Rey, 21, 22, 171<br />

Elsa Canning Company, 156<br />

Elsa State Bank and Trust Company, 156<br />

Elsa, Texas, 87, 123, 155, 156, 157, 158<br />

Emigrantes De Asturias: The Story of the de la<br />

Viña Family, 153<br />

Escandón colonization, 13, 159<br />

Escandón, José de, 14-21, 26, 42, 56, 63, 83,<br />

151, 159<br />

Esparza, Elfego, 111<br />

Espíritu Santo Grant, 20, 71, 112<br />

Estevanico, 11<br />

F<br />

F. H. Vahlsing, Inc. (Elsa), 156<br />

Fairfield Marriott Hotel (Weslaco), 126<br />

Falcon Dam, 19, 100, 147, 150, 166-168, 172,<br />

182, 190<br />

Falcon Dam construction, 166-168<br />

Falcon Dam International Crossing, 172<br />

Falcon Dam Reservoir, 2, 17, 19<br />

Falcon Lake and Park, 17, 168, 172, 190<br />

Falcon-Amistad Reservoir System, 184<br />

Family Land Heritage Program, 83<br />

Family Land Heritage Registry, 83<br />

Farm Security Administration, 166<br />

Farmer’s State Bank (San Benito), 111<br />

Fatherree, Tom, 184<br />

Federalist system (Mexico), 29, 31<br />

Fehrenbach, T. R., 111<br />

Fender, Freddy, 111<br />

Ferdinand Maximilian (emperor of Mexico),<br />

61, 72, 80-82<br />

Ferdinand VII, 23<br />

Fernández, Amador, 87<br />

Fernández, Bartolo, 90<br />

Fernández, Eugenio, 90<br />

Fiesta Edinburg, 151<br />

Fifth Army, Eighty-eight Division, 46<br />

Fifth Infantry Regiment, 38<br />

Fifty Years of Agricultural Research in the <strong>Rio</strong><br />

<strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas, 165<br />

First Battalion, Twenty-fifth Infantry Regiment,<br />

117<br />

First National Bank (Pharr), 140<br />

First State Bank & Trust Co. (McAllen), 143<br />

First State Bank of Alamo, 134-135<br />

Fisher, William S., 32-33<br />

Fletcher, Donna Hooks, 128, 131<br />

Focus on the Family, 112<br />

For We Love Our <strong>Valley</strong> Home, 113<br />

Ford, John Salmon “Rip”, 67, 70-73, 75, 76<br />

Fordyce, Sam, 122<br />

Fort Brown (Brownsville), 36-37, 39, 41-42,<br />

44-46, 63, 73-77, 84-85, 117-118, 129-<br />

130, 178-179, 185, 251<br />

Fort Jessup, Louisiana, 35<br />

Fort Polk (Port Isabel), 36-37, 66<br />

Fort Ringgold (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 39, 41, 50,<br />

60-61, 63, 76, 84-85, 129-130, 178<br />

Fort St. Louis, 14<br />

Fort Texas see Fort Brown<br />

Fort Worth, Texas, 143<br />

Fort Yuma, Arizona, 42<br />

Forty-Niners (Gold Rush), 42, 46<br />

Forum, Texas see Alamo, Texas<br />

Foster, William, 121-122<br />

Fourth Artillery Regiment, 61<br />

Fragoso, Agustín, 17<br />

Francis Joseph (emperor of Austria), 80<br />

French colony in Texas, 13<br />

French intervention in Mexico, 80, 82<br />

Frontón de Santa Isabel, 36<br />

Futuro McAllen, 144-145<br />

G<br />

Gaines County, 109<br />

Galveston Island, 8, 11-12<br />

Galveston, Texas, 46, 65, 67, 77, 89, 128, 129<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

390


Garay, Francisco de, 9-10<br />

Garceño, Texas, 18<br />

García, Don Rafael, 65<br />

García, José Moreles, 67, 69<br />

Garcías, Texas see Roma, Texas<br />

Garza Falcón, Blas María de la, 16, 18<br />

Garza Falcón, José de la, 60<br />

Garza Falcón, José María de la, 15<br />

Garza Falcón, Miguel de la, 15<br />

Garza Ranch, 60<br />

Garza, Francisco de la, 151<br />

Garza, Leo, Jr., 123<br />

Garza, Maria Hilaria de la, 60<br />

Garza, Reynaldo, 118<br />

Garza, Ruben, 123<br />

Garza, Ygnacio, 118, 184<br />

Gateway International Bridge, 52, 169<br />

Gem of the <strong>Valley</strong> Hotel (Pharr), 139-140<br />

General Telephone Company (Verizon), 178<br />

General Visit of the Royal Commission of<br />

1767, 19<br />

George, Elsie, 156<br />

George, J. R., 114<br />

George, R. A., 157<br />

George, William, 156<br />

Gift of the <strong>Rio</strong>, 22, 83<br />

Gigedo, Revilla, 19<br />

Gilbert, Minnie, 22<br />

Gill, S. Lamar, 104-105<br />

Gill, Sarah, 104-105<br />

Givens, H. L., 142<br />

Gladys Porter Zoo (Brownsville), 118, 190<br />

Glover, Lloyd, 140<br />

Goliad, Texas, 27, 29, 30, 31<br />

Gómez, José Manuel, 83<br />

Gonzalez, I. Miley, 165<br />

Gooch Insurance Agency, 327<br />

Gorgas Administration Building, 117-118,<br />

185<br />

Gorgas, William C., 77, 185<br />

grain sorghum production, 163<br />

Grandview Hospital (Edinburg), 187<br />

Grant, Ulysses S., 36, 41<br />

Great Depression, 68, 70, 104, 111, 135, 140,<br />

156, 180<br />

Great River-The <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> in North American<br />

History, 5<br />

Greer, Dewitt C., 173<br />

Greyhound Bus Lines, 174<br />

Grito de Dolores, 24, 25<br />

Grotto of Lourdes replica (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City),<br />

62-63<br />

Guajardo, Francisco, 157<br />

Guanajuato, Mexico, 24<br />

Guaranty Fund Bank (La Feria), 120<br />

Guaranty State Bank (Edcouch), 124<br />

Guardado see Garceño, Texas<br />

Guerra, Manuel, 59<br />

Guerra, Vicente, 17<br />

Guerrero Viejo see Guerrero, Tamaulipas, Mexico<br />

Guerrero, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 2, 7, 17-20, 25-<br />

26, 31, 32, 56, 167-168, 172<br />

Guerrero, Vicente, 25, 26, 28<br />

Gulf Intracoastal Canal, 3, 116, 197<br />

Gulf Intracoastal Canal System, 107, 175<br />

Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, 105, 115, 175<br />

Gulf of Mexico, 5, 6, 12, 13, 38, 44, 56, 105,<br />

116, 167<br />

Gutierrez, Ricardo, 174<br />

Gutiérrez de Lara, José Bernardo, 25<br />

H<br />

H&H Foods (Mercedes), 123<br />

Hackland, Keith, 134<br />

Haggar Manufacturing Company, 182, 182<br />

Hammond, Frank, 138, 139<br />

Handy, Angelita Cavazos, 128<br />

Handy, Chauncey, 128<br />

Handy, Sylvia, 128<br />

Handy, Thomas J., 128<br />

Harding Foundation (Raymondville), 105, 158<br />

Harding, Glenn, 158<br />

Harding, Laura, 104-105<br />

Harding, Rollo, 104, 158<br />

Harding, William A., 104-105, 158<br />

Harding-Lindahl Land Company, 104<br />

Harlingen Air Force Base, 108, 177<br />

Harlingen Air Gunnery School, 107<br />

Harlingen Chamber of Commerce, 108<br />

Harlingen Country Club, 177<br />

Harlingen Press, 185<br />

Harlingen State Chest Hospital, 186<br />

Harlingen State Tuberculosis Hospital, 186<br />

Harlingen, Texas, 10, 90, 95, 97-98, 100, 106-<br />

109, 112, 114, 118-119, 122, 131, 155,<br />

160, 169, 173-175, 177, 182, 184-186,<br />

188, 190<br />

Harlon Block Park, 127<br />

Harper’s Weekly, 73<br />

Harvey Richards Air Field (Harlingen), 177<br />

Hauseman, Art, 108<br />

Hawkins, George T., 133<br />

Hawthorne, S. C., 134<br />

healthcare institutions, 184-188<br />

Heart of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 149<br />

H-E-B, 108, 131<br />

Heintzelman, Samuel P., 71<br />

Hensz, Richard, 162<br />

Heritage Foundation of Hidalgo County, 65<br />

Hernandez, Joe, Jr., 133<br />

Hester, A. F., Sr., 99, 128-32, 160<br />

Hester, Forrest, 130<br />

Hester, Mary, 130<br />

Hester, Mary Richardson, 130<br />

Hester, Tom, 130<br />

Hicks, Benjamin, 109<br />

Hicks, Oliver, 109<br />

Hidalgo and Cameron County Water Control<br />

and Improvement District No. 9, 100, 123<br />

Hidalgo City Hall, 66<br />

Hidalgo County, 6, 20-21, 25, 44, 63-64, 73,<br />

83, 89-90, 95, 104, 119, 128, 133, 136-<br />

137, 148, 151-153, 158, 160, 164, 166,<br />

171, 173-174, 180, 184, 185<br />

Hidalgo County Bank (Mercedes), 123<br />

Hidalgo County Centennial, 133<br />

Hidalgo County Courthouse, 65, 136, 152<br />

Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission, 64-65,<br />

149, 171<br />

Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum, 7, 83, 92,<br />

153, 155<br />

Hidalgo County <strong>Historic</strong>al Society, 64<br />

Hidalgo County Irrigation District No. 2, 64,<br />

65<br />

Hidalgo County Jail, 65<br />

Hidalgo Pumphouse Heritage and Discovery<br />

Park, 64, 66, 100<br />

Hidalgo Telephone Company, 178<br />

Hidalgo Water District No. 2, 133<br />

Hidalgo y Castillo, Miguel, 24-25, 44<br />

Hidalgo, Texas, 25, 44, 63-66, 84, 89, 90, 100,<br />

141, 152, 170-173, 178<br />

Hill of the Bells, 82<br />

Hill, Eustacia, 106<br />

Hill, George, 106<br />

Hill, John C. C., 32<br />

Hill, Lon C., Sr., 106-108, 112, 122, 128, 131<br />

157, 160<br />

Hill, Lon C. “Mose”, Jr., 112, 118<br />

Hill, Paul, 106<br />

Hill, Austine Segrado, 32<br />

Hinojosa de Ballí, Doña Rosa María , 119<br />

Hinojosa, Guadalupe, 126<br />

Hinojosa, Juan H., 62<br />

Hinojosa, Manuel, 148-149<br />

Hinojosa, Ophelia, 126<br />

Hinojosa, Rubén, 123, 165<br />

Hinojosa, Salvador M., 123<br />

Hispaniola, 9<br />

Historia de Mexico, 9, 24, 80, 82<br />

<strong>Historic</strong> Brownsville Museum, 98<br />

<strong>Historic</strong>al Heritage of the Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 62<br />

Hockaday, J. A., 68<br />

Hodes, Mike, 108<br />

Hofmokel, F. W. “Fritz”, 116<br />

Hoit, J. W., 145<br />

Holloway, Milton, 129<br />

Hooks, T. J., 99, 128-132, 160<br />

Hoover, Herbert, 116<br />

Hord, Edward, 59<br />

Horgan, Paul, 5<br />

Horn, R. E., 143<br />

horticulture, 163<br />

Houston, Sam, 28, 30, 31<br />

Houston, Texas, 56, 111, 148, 174, 176<br />

Huerta, Victoriano, 92, 93<br />

Humble Oil Company (King Ranch), 55<br />

Hunt <strong>Valley</strong> Development (Mission), 150<br />

Hunt, Ted R., 189<br />

Hunter, John H., 72<br />

Huntington, C. P., 32<br />

Hurricane Alice, 168<br />

Hurricane Allen, 183<br />

Hurricane Barry, 183<br />

Hurricane Beulah, 168, 182<br />

Hurricane Bret, 183<br />

Hurricane Gilbert, 183<br />

Hurricane of 1867, 46, 50, 76-77<br />

Hurricane of 1874, 76<br />

Hurricane of 1933, 46, 70, 85, 111, 113, 121-<br />

122, 135, 137, 179, 180<br />

Hurricane of 1967, 121, 135<br />

Hutchison, Kay Bailey, 165<br />

Hynes, L. J., 84-85<br />

I<br />

Illustrated London News, 29, 75<br />

Immaculate Conception Church (Brownsville),<br />

INDEX<br />

391


46-48, 63, 84<br />

Immaculate Conception School and Church<br />

(<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 62<br />

Incarnate Word Academy (Brownsville), 48<br />

International Boundary and Water<br />

Commission, 99, 167<br />

International Venture Center (Weslaco), 126<br />

Ipana Troubadours, 125<br />

Irrigation systems, 64, 65, 83, 85, 94, 98, 99,<br />

100, 101, 112, 121, 123, 130, 139, 147<br />

Iturbide, Agustín de, 25, 26, 28<br />

Iwo Jima Monument and Visitor Center<br />

(Harlingen), 108<br />

J<br />

jacale, 16, 76, 78-79, 85, 129<br />

Jackson, Jeffrey, 109<br />

Jamaica, 9, 10<br />

Jefferson, Thomas, 30<br />

Jim Hogg County, 6, 179<br />

Jiménez, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 15, 17, 20<br />

Joe E. Pate and Associates, 171<br />

John Knox Village (Weslaco), 126-127<br />

John Vale-Noah Cox House (Roma), 58<br />

Johnson, Charles R., 104<br />

Johnson, E. E. “Jack”, 124<br />

Juárez, Benito, 72, 80-82<br />

K<br />

Kansas Pacific Railroad, 52<br />

Karankawa, The, 6-8, 12-13, 69<br />

Karle, Fred, 122<br />

Karle, Frederick George, 122<br />

Kaufman County, 105<br />

Kearny, Stephen Watts, 39<br />

Kell/Muñoz/Wigodsky Architects, 148<br />

Kelley, Looney, Alexander, and Sawyer, 174<br />

Kelley, Rogers, 174<br />

Kelly, Anna Mae, 139<br />

Kelly, John C., Sr., 138-139<br />

Kelly, John C., Jr., 139<br />

Kelly, Nora, 185<br />

Kelly, William, 50<br />

Kenaf Industries, 164<br />

kenaf production, 164<br />

Kendall, George Wilkins, 41<br />

Kenedy County, 6, 20, 43-44, 56, 183<br />

Kenedy Ranch, 106<br />

Kenedy, Florence, 90<br />

Kenedy, John G., 96<br />

Kenedy, Mifflin, 48-50, 54-56, 74, 76-77, 90,<br />

95<br />

Kentucky Fried Chicken, 146<br />

Keralum, Pierre “Peter”, 47, 48, 57, 84, 89<br />

Key to the Gulf General Store (Port Isabel), 67-<br />

69<br />

KGBT, 120<br />

Kika de la Garza Subtropical Agricultural<br />

Research Center, 126, 148, 165<br />

Kilgore, Joe, 160<br />

King Ranch, 52-56, 90, 103, 106, 153, 164,<br />

173<br />

King, Henrietta Chamberlain, 47, 54, 55, 56<br />

King, Kenedy & Company, 49<br />

King, Richard, 41, 47-50, 52-56, 74, 76-77,<br />

90, 95, 103<br />

King, Richard II, 96<br />

Kingsville, Texas, 54, 56, 96<br />

Kinney, Henry Lawrence, 53<br />

Kleberg County, 183<br />

Kleberg Ranch, 96<br />

Kleberg, Caesar, 96<br />

Kleberg, Robert J., 96<br />

Kleberg, Robert, Jr., 55<br />

Kleberg, Robert, Sr., 55<br />

Kleiber, Joseph, 67<br />

Knapp Family Foundation (Weslaco), 126<br />

Knapp Medical Center (Weslaco), 126-127,<br />

186-187<br />

Knapp Memorial Methodist Hospital<br />

(Weslaco), 127, 186-187<br />

Knapp, Charles T., 134<br />

Knapp, Everett, 126<br />

Krenmuller Farms, 87<br />

KRGV-TV5 (Weslaco), 126<br />

L<br />

L’Illustration, 80<br />

La Bahía del Espíritu Santo (Goliad), 13, 14,<br />

27<br />

La Blanca, Texas, 128<br />

La Blanca Agricultural Company (Donna), 99,<br />

128, 130, 132<br />

La Blanca Grant, 87<br />

La Blanca Tract (Donna), 128, 129<br />

La Bolsa Bend, 71-72<br />

La Borde House (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 61-63<br />

La Casa Blanca, 84-85<br />

La Coma Ranch (Edinburg), 90, 136, 153<br />

La Donna Canal Company, 132<br />

La Feria Grant, 119<br />

La Feria Hotel, 119-120<br />

La Feria News, 120<br />

La Feria Townsite Company, 120<br />

La Feria Water District, 121<br />

La Feria, Texas, 119, 120, 121, 122, 178, 291,<br />

327<br />

La Golondrina, 139-140<br />

La Grange, Texas, 34<br />

La Habitación (Hidalgo), 63<br />

La Joya, Texas, 151, 180<br />

La Lomita Grant, 145, 151<br />

La Lomita Land Company (Mission), 145<br />

La Lomita Mission, 145 , 151<br />

La Lomita Ranch, 47<br />

La Perla Florería and Yerbería (Weslaco), 126<br />

La Reforma Ranch, 184<br />

La Sal Vieja, 21, 22<br />

La Salle, Robert Cavelier Sieur de, 13<br />

La Villa High School, 158<br />

La Villa, Texas, 123, 155, 157-158<br />

La Virgen de San Juan de los Lagos, 138<br />

Laborde House Restaurant, 49<br />

Laborde, Eva Marks, 61<br />

Laborde, Francois, 61<br />

Lafitte, Jean, 8, 65<br />

Lafitte, Pierre, 65<br />

Lafitte’s Well, 66<br />

Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge, 115<br />

Laguna Madre, 3, 6, 29, 65, 68, 77, 105, 175,<br />

190, 197<br />

Laguna Seca, 22, 86, 153<br />

Laguna Seca Ranch (Edinburg), 87<br />

Lake Charles, Louisiana, 141<br />

Lamar, Mirabeau B., 31<br />

land developers, 94, 99, 101, 119, 134<br />

Landrum Plantation/Rancho Cypress/El Rancho<br />

Ciprés (San Benito), 90-91<br />

Landrum, Frances Powers, 91<br />

Landrum, James F., 109<br />

Landrum, James L., 90-91<br />

Landry, Tom, 148-149<br />

Lane, Walter P., 34<br />

Langley, Jack, 144<br />

Langley, Ralph R., 136<br />

Laredo, Texas, 18, 29, 31, 32, 43, 44, 50, 56,<br />

57, 58, 60, 77, 95, 174, 182, 185<br />

Las Cuevas Ranch, 78<br />

Las Majadas Ranch, 103<br />

Las Yescas, 112<br />

Lavaca Bay, 13<br />

Law of April 6, 1830, 28<br />

Lawler, Marion R., Jr., 185<br />

Lawler, Marion R., Sr., 185<br />

Lawler, Mrs. Marion R., Sr., 185<br />

Lee, Robert E., 41, 61, 71, 75<br />

Lee, Thomas, 112<br />

Lee, Thomas F., 118, 119<br />

Leeland-Stuart Place Clubhouse, 118-119<br />

Leopold I, 80<br />

Lerdo de Tejado, Sebastián, 82<br />

Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper, 27, 72, 74<br />

Levi-Strauss Manufacturing Company, 182<br />

Lewis, Gideon “Legs”, 54<br />

Lightner, Camille Sams, 118<br />

Lincoln, Laura, 133<br />

Lindahl, A. A., 104<br />

Lindbergh, Charles, 117, 176<br />

Lino Ramirez Residence and Store (Roma), 59<br />

Lipscomb, W. L., 83<br />

livestock production, 164<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Center for Research and<br />

Development (Edcouch), 157<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Grant, 20, 27, 124<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Lake, 124, 179<br />

Llano <strong>Grande</strong> Tract, 128<br />

Lone Star Fair (Corpus Christi), 53<br />

Long, Bill, 149<br />

Long, Gen, 149<br />

Longhorn cattle, 51, 52, 53, 56, 84, 119<br />

Longoria, Rosalio Ponce, 119<br />

Longoria, Yrineo, 119<br />

Lonsboro, Texas, 122<br />

Looney, J. Cullen, 174<br />

Lopez, Olga H., 126<br />

Los Caminos del <strong>Rio</strong> Heritage Corridor, 58, 60<br />

Los Ebanos, Texas, 151, 171<br />

Los Ebanos Ferry, 78, 171<br />

Los Ejidos de Reynosa Viejo, 151<br />

Los Fresnos High School, 113<br />

Los Fresnos PRCA Rodeo, 114<br />

Los Fresnos State Bank, 112, 114<br />

Los Fresnos, Texas 112-114, 161<br />

Los Indios Free Trade Bridge, 109, 112, 169<br />

Los Indios, Texas, 109, 112, 169<br />

Los Kineños (The King People), 54<br />

Los Llanos de la Feria, 119<br />

Los Saenz (Roma), 57<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

392


Los Tomates, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 169<br />

Lott Town and Improvement Company<br />

(Donna), 131<br />

Lott, Uriah, 95, 96, 97, 98, 106, 131<br />

Louisiana, 42, 74, 85, 89, 160<br />

Louisiana Purchase Centennial Exposition (St.<br />

Louis), 89<br />

Louisiana <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Sugar Cane Company,<br />

139<br />

Louisiana-<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Canal Company, 64,<br />

101, 133<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> National Wildlife Refuge, 22<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Association,<br />

186<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Historic</strong>al Society, 72<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> of Texas and Northern<br />

Mexico, 156<br />

Lower <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Planning Board, 127<br />

Lozano, Santos, Sr., 119<br />

Lugar de Mier, 18<br />

Lula Sams Girl Scout Camp, 118<br />

Lundberg Hotel (Raymondville), 103<br />

Lyford, Texas, 20, 104<br />

Lyford, William, 104, 105<br />

Lyons, George, 45<br />

M<br />

M. Kenedy & Company, 48<br />

Madero, Francisco, 92<br />

Magee, Anne L., 83<br />

Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative, 123, 179<br />

Manifest Destiny, 40<br />

Mannering, Dr., 133<br />

Mansfield Bill, 105<br />

Mansfield, Joseph J., 105, 175<br />

Manuel Guerra Store (Roma), 59<br />

maquiladora program, 65, 112, 118, 144, 169,<br />

170, 175, 176, 183<br />

Marcy, William, 35<br />

Mariachi Los Coyotes (La Joya), 151<br />

Marine Military Academy (Harlingen), 108<br />

Marks, Ernest, 61<br />

Martin Drug Store (San Juan), 137<br />

Martinez Mercantile Store (San Juan), 137<br />

Martinez, Carmen, 110<br />

Martinez, Felix T., 171<br />

Martinez, Manuel, 137<br />

Martinez, Narciso, 111<br />

Martinez, Victoria, 137<br />

masa (corn flour), 163<br />

Matagorda Bay, 8, 14, 29<br />

Matamoros, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 26-30, 32-33,<br />

36-39, 44-46, 48-50, 55-56, 59, 66, 71-78,<br />

87, 95, 115, 117-118, 169, 172, 176, 183,<br />

190<br />

Mattar, S. M., 125<br />

Mattar’s Store for Men, 125<br />

Mayfield, Tom, 137<br />

Maximillian see Ferdinand Maximillian<br />

McAllen Foreign Trade Zone, 144<br />

McAllen International Museum, 144<br />

McAllen Medical Center, 187<br />

McAllen Municipal Hospital, 187<br />

McAllen Ranch (Linn), 83, 84<br />

McAllen Townsite Company, 141<br />

McAllen, Argyle, 83<br />

McAllen, Carlota, 86<br />

McAllen, James, 83-84<br />

McAllen, John, 63, 83-84, 86, 141, 152, 160<br />

McAllen, Margaret, 83<br />

McAllen, Salomé Ballí Young, 83, 84, 86<br />

McAllen, Texas, 50, 64, 98, 122, 136, 137,<br />

139, 141-145, 149, 152, 170-172, 177-<br />

180, 182-184, 187-190<br />

McAllen-Hidalgo-Reynosa International Bridge,<br />

65, 144, 171<br />

McAllen-Miller International Airport, 144, 177<br />

McCalip-Ivy Hospital (Weslaco), 186<br />

McColl, A. J., 136<br />

McCreery Aviation Company, Inc., 177<br />

McDonald, Laurier, 49<br />

McManus, J. S., 125<br />

McNail, Eddie Gathings, 120<br />

McNelly, L. H., 78, 103<br />

Meade, George Gordon, 41<br />

Mejía, Tomás, 81<br />

melon production, 160, 161<br />

Mena, Marcos de, 13<br />

Mendéz, Joseph, 32<br />

Mendiola, Juan, 54<br />

Mendoza, Antonio de, 11, 12, 23<br />

Mercedes Electric Light Company, 178<br />

Mercedes Enterprise, 123<br />

Mercedes General Hospital, 186<br />

Mercedes Industrial Park, 123<br />

Mercedes Surgical and Obstetrical Hospital,<br />

186<br />

Mercedes, Texas, 20, 47, 87, 89, 94, 99-100,<br />

109, 121-124, 164, 170, 179, 185-186,<br />

197<br />

Mercy Hospital (Brownsville), 184-185<br />

mescal, 7<br />

mestizos, 23, 92<br />

Mexican National Railway, 77, 95<br />

Mexico, 5-6, 9-13, 15, 17, 19-28, 30-35, 37,<br />

39-43, 46, 48-50, 52, 54, 57-58, 60-62,<br />

65, 67, 69-74, 76-78, 80-83, 87, 89, 91-<br />

94, 98-100, 107, 109, 112, 115-116, 118,<br />

123-124, 127, 132-133, 137-138, 140-141,<br />

143-144, 148, 155, 163, 166-177, 179-<br />

180, 182-183, 185, 189-190<br />

Mexico City, Mexico, 6, 10-11, 13, 18, 23-29,<br />

33-35, 39, 40, 72, 81-82, 92-93, 117, 119,<br />

176<br />

Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Hospital Development Corporation,<br />

186<br />

Mier Expedition, 32, 34, 44<br />

Mier, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 14, 17, 18, 20, 30-<br />

33, 54, 56, 58, 59, 60, 184<br />

Military Highway, 41, 173<br />

Military Telegraph Road, 129<br />

Miller Hotel, 138<br />

Miller Municipal Airport, 144<br />

Miller, Marjorie, 144<br />

Miller, Sam, 144, 177<br />

Mission Business Park, 162<br />

Mission Doctors Plaza, 188<br />

Mission High School, 148-149<br />

Mission <strong>Historic</strong>al Society, 149<br />

Mission Hospital, 187, 188<br />

Mission Times, 146<br />

Mission, Texas, 11, 22, 47, 90, 94, 97-98, 109,<br />

145-151, 162, 166, 168, 172, 179-180,<br />

185, 190<br />

Missionary Oblates of Mary Immaculate, 46-<br />

47, 57, 145<br />

Missouri (as part of New Spain), 27<br />

Missouric Pacific Depot (San Juan), 137<br />

Missouri Pacific Railroad, 98, 139<br />

Monitor, The, 184<br />

Monroe, James, 25<br />

Montalvo, San Benito, 109<br />

Monte Alto, 104-105, 155, 157-158, 166<br />

Monterrey, Nuevo Léon, Mexico, 18, 33, 39,<br />

42, 58, 59, 60, 77-78, 141, 148, 152, 170,<br />

175<br />

Montijo, Eugenie Marie de, 80, 82<br />

Moore Air Force Base, 149, 166<br />

Moore Field (Mission), 149<br />

Moreles, José Maria, 25<br />

Moreno, Rafael, 109<br />

Morgan City, Louisiana, 139<br />

Morgan Steamship Line, 67, 77<br />

Morrison, William H., 114<br />

Morrow, Bobby, 112<br />

Moseville, Texas see Los Fresnos, Texas<br />

Muñoz, Candelario, 132<br />

Muñoz, Dionicio, 129, 132<br />

Museums of Port Isabel, 67<br />

Mussina, Simon, 45<br />

N<br />

Nacogdoches, Texas, 27<br />

Nacogdoches County, 44<br />

Napoleon III, 80-82<br />

Narciso Martinez Cultural Arts Center, 111<br />

Narváez, Pánfilo de, 10-12<br />

National Audubon Society, 85-86<br />

National Park Service, 39, 40<br />

National Register of <strong>Historic</strong> Places, 62, 115,<br />

144<br />

National University of Mexico, 11<br />

Nature Conservancy of Texas, 190<br />

Neale, William, 46<br />

Neale, William A., 46<br />

New Iberia, Louisiana, 138<br />

New Mexico, 5, 39, 40, 41, 137<br />

New Orleans Picayune, 41<br />

New Orleans, Louisiana, 27, 35, 41, 46, 47,<br />

59, 65, 66, 67, 77, 86, 91<br />

New Spain, 6, 9, 11, 12, 13, 23, 51<br />

New York and Brownsville Improvement<br />

Company, 45<br />

New York Guard, Squadron A (McAllen), 142<br />

Nixon, Richard, 111, 168<br />

North American Butterfly Association, 150<br />

North American Free Trade Agreement, 98,<br />

141, 184<br />

Norton, Robert E. “Bob”, 65<br />

Nueces County, 43, 44<br />

Nueces River, 6, 14, 17, 30, 31, 35-36, 39, 43,<br />

53-54<br />

Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de Reynosa, 16<br />

Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, 17<br />

Nuestra Señora del Refugio, 19<br />

Nuevo Guerrero, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 17, 19,<br />

167, 172<br />

Nuevo Laredo, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 77<br />

INDEX<br />

393


Nuevo León, Mexico, 14, 15, 16, 31, 130, 148<br />

Nuevo Progreso, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 124,<br />

127, 169-170, 190<br />

Nuevo Santander, Mexico, 13, 14, 15, 19, 20,<br />

25, 26, 56<br />

nursery industry, 163<br />

O<br />

O. P. Archer Hotel (McAllen), 139<br />

Oaxaca, Mexico, 80, 82<br />

Obregón, Álvaro, 92-93<br />

Odin, Jean Marie, 46<br />

oil and gas production, 180-181<br />

Old Country Store (Combes), 105<br />

Old Flossie, 136, 152<br />

Old Rattler Limited, 136<br />

Old Rough and Ready, 62<br />

Olivarez, Reducindo, 126<br />

Ordaz, Díaz, 168, 183<br />

Ortiz, Doña Josefa, 23<br />

Our Lady of Refuge Church (Roma), 57<br />

Our Lady of Visitation Chapel, 84<br />

P<br />

Pablo Ramirez Residence and Store (Roma),<br />

59<br />

Padre Island, 8-9, 12, 26, 68-70, 105, 175<br />

Padre Island shipwrecks, 12, 13, 69<br />

Palm Grove Plantation-Ranch (Brownsville),<br />

85-86<br />

Palmito Ranch (Brownsville), 70, 75<br />

Palmview, Texas, 151<br />

Palo Alto Battlefield National <strong>Historic</strong> Site<br />

(Brownsville), 40<br />

Pan American College (Edinburg), 154<br />

Pan American University (Edinburg), 154<br />

Pan American World Airways (Brownsville),<br />

176<br />

Panuco River, 10<br />

Panuco, Veracruz, Mexico, 13<br />

Parker, A. F. “Al”, 120<br />

Parker, Lyle, 188-189<br />

Parker, P. C., 188-189<br />

Parker, R. S., 188-189<br />

Parkview Hotel (Donna), 131-132<br />

Paso Real Ferry, 114, 128<br />

Paso Real Stagecoach Inn (<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo), 108,<br />

114<br />

Patton, George, 93<br />

Payne Dealer Group (Weslaco), 126<br />

Payne Motor Company (Weslaco), 126<br />

Payne, Ed, 126<br />

Pecos River, 5, 168<br />

peninsulares, 23, 24<br />

Peñitas, 11, 151<br />

People’s Store, The, 125<br />

Pepsi Sports Park (Mission), 150-151<br />

Pershing, John J., 93<br />

peyote, 7<br />

Pharr Canal System, 139<br />

Pharr Industrial Park, 141, 170<br />

Pharr Press, 140<br />

Pharr, Henry N., 138, 139<br />

Pharr, Texas, 64, 83, 136, 138-141, 170, 171,<br />

173<br />

Pharr-Reynosa International Bridge, 141, 170<br />

Pharr-San Juan-Alamo Independent School<br />

District, 135, 139, 140<br />

Phillipe (count of Flanders), 82<br />

Phillips, Tom, 121<br />

Piat, Jules, 47<br />

Pierce, Franklin, 41<br />

piloncillos, 85, 89<br />

Piñeda, Alvarez de, 9-10<br />

Pittman, H. Minat, 45<br />

Plan of Iguala, 25<br />

Plan of San Diego, 137<br />

Platt, F. C., 136<br />

plaza, 15, 16, 17, 29, 32, 33, 57, 58, 59, 60, 167<br />

Plaza Hotel (Donna), 131-132<br />

Pless, Ernest, 105<br />

Poage, Bob, 160<br />

Pocket Park (Raymondville), 22<br />

Point Isabel, 36-37, 41, 46-47, 66-68, 73-75,<br />

77, 106, 115, 116, 128, 129, 130<br />

Polk, James K., 34, 35, 39<br />

Ponce, José Jesús “Joe”, 153<br />

Pope, Dorothy Lee, 134, 135<br />

porción, 19, 20<br />

Porción 67, 138<br />

Porción 72, 133<br />

Port Brownsville, 68, 116, 162, 175, 181-182<br />

Port Harlingen, 107, 115, 175<br />

Port Isabel <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum, 36, 67, 69<br />

Port Isabel Lighthouse, 66-68<br />

Port Isabel Townsite Company, 68<br />

Port Isabel, Texas, 3, 50, 65, 67-69, 84, 86,<br />

95, 114, 174-175, 178, 179, 190<br />

Port Isabel-San Benito Navigation District, 175<br />

Port Mansfield Annual Fishing Tournament,<br />

105<br />

Port Mansfield, Texas, 105, 175, 184, 190<br />

Port of Brazos de Santiago, 67, 77, 178<br />

Port of Matamoros, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 66<br />

Port of Veracruz, Veracruz, Mexico, 66<br />

Porter, Gladys Sams, 118, 190<br />

Portscheller, Heinrich “Enrique”, 58-59<br />

Portsmouth, 49<br />

Powers, Stephen, 54, 90, 109<br />

Presidio La Bahia, 29<br />

Priest, Lew, 121<br />

Pro Football Hall of Fame, 149<br />

Progreso International Bridge, 87, 127, 169-<br />

170<br />

Progreso Post Office, 124<br />

Progreso, Texas, 87-88, 124, 170<br />

Public Works Administration, 116<br />

Puckett, P. N., 73<br />

Puebla, Mexico, 80<br />

Punta del Monte Ranch, 56, 106<br />

Purísima Concepción Church, 20<br />

Q<br />

Queen Isabella Causeway (Port Isabel), 3, 68,<br />

189-190<br />

Querétaro, Mexico, 14-15, 23-24, 80, 82<br />

Quinta Mazatlán, 190<br />

R<br />

Rabb, Frank, 85-86<br />

Rabb, Lillian M. Starck, 85-86<br />

Raimond, Vance D., 107, 174<br />

Rainbow Era on the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 134<br />

Ramirez Hospital, 59<br />

Ramírez, Alfonso R., 79<br />

Ramírez, Emilia Schunior, 78<br />

Ramirez, Lino, 59<br />

Ramirez, Pablo, 59<br />

Ramos, Basilio, 137<br />

Ranch Life in Hidalgo County After 1850, 78<br />

Ranchero, 49, 71-72<br />

ranching, 78, 79, 83<br />

Rancho de Buena Vista (Donna), 56<br />

Rancho de Carricitos (Brownsville), 39<br />

Rancho de Los Saenz (Roma), 56<br />

Rancho de Santa María, 50, 84<br />

Rancho Parajito (Donna), 129<br />

Rancho Santa Cruz, 69<br />

Rankin, Melinda, 48<br />

Ranking, H. H., 131<br />

Raymond, Edward B., 103-104<br />

Raymondville <strong>Historic</strong>al Museum and<br />

Community Center, 104, 291<br />

Raymondville State Bank, 103<br />

Raymondville Town and Improvement<br />

Company, 103<br />

Raymondville, Texas, 13, 20, 22, 44, 97, 103-<br />

105, 173, 175, 178, 291<br />

Read, F. P., 96<br />

Reber Memorial Library, 104<br />

Reber, John O., 104<br />

Reber, Lou Emma, 104<br />

Reber, Winnie, 104<br />

Red Fish Bay Landing, 105, 175<br />

Red Gate Ranch see La Coma Ranch<br />

Redman, Bill, 75, 76<br />

Reeves, Almeda Couch, 124-125<br />

Reeves, Robert L., 124-125<br />

Refugio, Texas, 31<br />

Relampago Ranch, 87<br />

Relampago, Texas, 87<br />

Renaissance-Casa de Palmas Hotel (McAllen),<br />

143<br />

Rentfro, R. B., 116<br />

Republic of Mexico, 26, 28, 34<br />

Republic of Texas, 6, 22, 30, 31, 32, 34, 43<br />

Republic of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 31<br />

resaca, 109, 110, 112<br />

Retamal Diversion Dam (Donna), 168<br />

Revilla see Guerrero, Tamaulipas, Mexico<br />

Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 16-20, 26, 33,<br />

44, 56, 63-66, 71-72, 86, 119, 123-128,<br />

130, 141, 144-145, 151, 169-171, 174,<br />

183, 190<br />

Ridge, Naomi Vivian, 158<br />

Rincon de Santa Gertrudis, 54<br />

Ringgold Barracks (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 60, 71,<br />

75<br />

Ringgold, Samuel, 38-39, 61<br />

Río Bravo del Norte, 5<br />

Río Bravo Irrigation Company (McAllen), 141<br />

Río Bravo, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 133, 172<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Concho, 5<br />

Río de las Palmas, 9, 10<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Farms, Inc., 164, 166<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 5-7, 9-10, 13-23, 25-33, 35-40,<br />

42-45, 48-50, 53-54, 56, 58, 60, 63, 65,<br />

67, 70-71, 73-74, 77-78, 84-85, 87, 91,<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

394


94, 99-100, 105, 107, 109-114, 119-120,<br />

124, 127-130, 133, 151-152, 159-160,<br />

166-168, 171-173, 185<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City Chamber of Commerce, 62<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City Independent School District,<br />

61<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City, Texas, 5, 16, 18, 22, 39, 44,<br />

47-50, 58, 60-63, 70-71, 75, 78, 81, 89,<br />

97-98, 129, 151, 157, 171, 174, 178, 184,<br />

188<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City-Camargo Bridge, 172<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Clarion, 139<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Female Institute, 48<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Flood of 1909, 129-131, 146, 151<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> international bridges, 59-60, 65,<br />

87-88, 109, 112, 115, 118, 127, 133, 141,<br />

144, 151, 168-173<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Railroad Company, 50, 67-68, 77,<br />

86, 95, 115, 174, 178<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Regional Hospital (McAllen), 187-<br />

188<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> settlements, 31<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> State Center for Mental Health and<br />

Mental Retardation, 186<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> tributaries, 5, 168<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Birding Festival, 108-109<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> boundaries, 6<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Chamber of Commerce<br />

(Weslaco), 102, 127, 148, 184<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Citrus Exchange, 126<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> climate, 6<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Empowerment Zone, 158<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Gas Company, 179<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> geology, 6<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> land, 6<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Livestock Show, 122-123,<br />

164<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Museum, 10, 106-108, 114,<br />

185<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership Weslaco), 126-<br />

127, 148, 174, 184<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Planning Board, 148<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers Cooperative,<br />

122, 158, 160<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Whitewings (Harlingen), 155<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Wildlife Corridor, 190<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>: U.S.-Mexico boundary, 40<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo, Texas, 114-115, 177<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Red grapefruit, 161, 162<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Rico Kennel Club, 170<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Rico, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 99, 100, 170<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Rico, Texas, 99<br />

Río Santander, 17<br />

Río Soto la Marina, 9<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> Theatre, 149<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Canning Company, 162<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>Fest (Harlingen), 109<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes, 123<br />

Rip Ford’s Texas, 70<br />

Ripley, C. A., 122<br />

Robert E. Lee House (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City), 61<br />

Robert E. Norton Visitor Center, 65<br />

Robert L. Savage Mercantile Store, 136<br />

Roberts, J. B., 128, 131<br />

Robertson, Sam A., 69, 91, 96-97, 109-111,<br />

114, 136, 160<br />

Robinson, Charles III, 110, 111<br />

Robstown, Texas, 96<br />

Rock Island-Frisco Lines, 95<br />

Roettele, Carl, 156<br />

Rogers, Roy, 149<br />

Roma Plaza, 57, 59<br />

Roma Plaza National <strong>Historic</strong> Landmark<br />

District, 57, 58<br />

Roma Restoration Project, 58-59<br />

Roma, Texas, 47, 48, 50, 56-60, 75, 84, 157,<br />

161, 170, 172, 178<br />

Roma-Ciudad Miguel Alemán International<br />

Suspension Bridge, 59-60, 172<br />

Roosevelt, Theodore, 117<br />

Royal Land Grants North of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>:<br />

1777-1821, 62<br />

Ruiz Cortines, Adolfo, 166-167<br />

Ruiz, Manuel, 72<br />

Run School, 131<br />

Run, Texas, 128-132, 160<br />

Runn, Texas see Run, Texas<br />

Rusk, Thomas Jefferson, 30<br />

Ruthven, Ed, 129, 131<br />

Ruthven, George, 129<br />

S<br />

Sabal Palm Refuge (Brownsville), 85-86<br />

Saenz Fernández, Manuela, 87<br />

Saenz, Don Florencio, 87-88<br />

Salado River/Río Salado, 5-6, 14, 17<br />

Salado, Coahuila, Mexico, 33-34<br />

Salinas, Alonzo, 129<br />

Salinas, Daniel II, 129<br />

salt lakes and the salt trade, 21-22<br />

Salt Trail, 22, 171<br />

Saltillo, Coahuila, Mexico, 21, 28, 31, 33, 39,<br />

42, 78<br />

Sam Fordyce, Texas, 90, 95, 97<br />

Sams Stadium, 118<br />

Sams, Earl C., 118, 190<br />

San Antonio de Béjar, 14, 27, 28, 29<br />

San Antonio River, 13<br />

San Antonio, Texas, 31, 32, 41, 62, 71, 75, 77,<br />

95, 107, 134, 148, 152, 173-174, 176, 182<br />

San Augustín Plaza, 31<br />

San Benito Airport, 111<br />

San Benito and <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Railroad,<br />

114<br />

San Benito Bank and Trust, 111<br />

San Benito High School, 111<br />

San Benito Irrigation District, 110<br />

San Benito Land and Water Company, 109-<br />

110, 178<br />

San Benito News, 110<br />

San Benito, Texas, 20, 69, 90-91, 97, 109-112,<br />

160, 169, 173, 178, 182, 186, 327<br />

San Diego, Texas, 137<br />

San Felipe de Austin, 28<br />

San Felipe Parish, Guanajuato, Mexico, 24<br />

San Fernando, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 26<br />

San Isidro, Texas, 123<br />

San Juan Chapel, 20<br />

San Juan de Carricitos Grant, 20<br />

San Juan de los Lagos, 24<br />

San Juan Hotel, 136-137<br />

San Juan People’s Church, 137-138<br />

San Juan Plantation, 83, 89, 104, 128, 136-<br />

137, 152, 160, 178<br />

San Juan River/Río San Juan, 5-6, 14-16, 22,<br />

130, 182<br />

San Juan Townsite Company, 136<br />

San Juan, Texas, 64, 87, 90, 95, 133, 136-139,<br />

144, 152<br />

San Juanito Ranch, 84, 133<br />

San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico,<br />

24<br />

San Patricio County, 43, 44<br />

San Pedro de Roma, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 56<br />

San Perlita, 104<br />

San Román, José, 46<br />

San Salvador del Tule Grant, 20-22<br />

Sanborn Travelogs, 189<br />

Sanborn’s International Travel, 189<br />

Sanborn, Bill, 189<br />

Sanborn, Dan, 189<br />

Sánchez, Don Tomás, 18<br />

Sanders, Colonel, 146<br />

Santa Ana de Camargo, 16<br />

Santa Anita Grant, 83, 84<br />

Santa Anita Ranch, 133<br />

Santa Anna, Antonio López de, 26, 28-32, 34,<br />

80<br />

Santa Gertrudis cattle, 55-56, 164<br />

Santa Gertrudis Creek (King Ranch), 53-55<br />

Santa Gertrudis, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 96<br />

Santa Margarita, 104<br />

Santa María, Texas, 84-85, 129<br />

Santa María de Aguayo, Tamaulipas, Mexico,<br />

26<br />

Santa Rosa High School, 121, 251<br />

Santa Rosa Ranch, 121<br />

Santa Rosa Signal, 121<br />

Santa Rosa, Texas, 119, 121-122, 158, 160<br />

Santander, Nuevo Santander, Mexico, 15<br />

Santo Domingo, 9<br />

Santos Coy, Don Nicolás de los, 18, 22<br />

Schnorenberg, S. J., 119-120<br />

Scott, Emory Owen, 62<br />

Scott, Florence Johnson, 50, 62<br />

Scott, Winfield, 39, 41-42<br />

Sebastian, 104<br />

Sebastian, John, 104, 105<br />

Second Texas Cavalry, 70<br />

Security State Bank (Pharr), 140<br />

Seno Mexicano, 13-14, 16<br />

Shary, John H., 146-148, 161<br />

Shary, Mary, 147<br />

Sharyland Business Park, 151<br />

Sharyland Plantation, 147, 150<br />

Sharyland, Texas, 147, 167<br />

Shawn, Jim, 141<br />

She Came to the <strong>Valley</strong>, 146<br />

Sheerin, Larry, 62<br />

Sheridan, Phil, 76<br />

Shivers, Allan, 147, 161, 167<br />

Shivers, Marialice Shary, 147<br />

Sibson, Tom, 121, 122<br />

Sigle, David, 136-137<br />

Sigle, Glenn, 136-137<br />

Sigle, Mary, 136-137<br />

Sigler, Dave W., 120<br />

Silver, S. P., 122, 152<br />

INDEX<br />

395


Silverio de la Peña Building (<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City),<br />

62<br />

Singer, Johanna, 69<br />

Singer, John, 69<br />

Sisters of the Incarnate Word and Blessed<br />

Sacrament, 48<br />

Skloss, Joyce, 154<br />

Slidell, John, 35<br />

Smith, A. Newman, 124<br />

Smith, Dell, 149<br />

Smith, E. D., 63<br />

Smith, Erastus “Deaf”, 30<br />

Smith, Robert N., 149<br />

Smith, W. H., 114<br />

Smitty’s Jukebox Museum (Pharr), 141<br />

Snow, Walter, 132<br />

Somervell, Alexander, 32<br />

South Padre Island, Texas, 3, 6, 68-70, 109,<br />

118, 182-183, 189-190, 197<br />

South Texas Better Business Bureau, 126<br />

South Texas Community College, 126<br />

South Texas Health System, 187<br />

South Texas Hospital (Harlingen), 186<br />

South Texas Independent School District, 124<br />

Southern Contracting Company, 96<br />

Southern Pacific Depot (Brownsville), 97-98<br />

Southern Pacific Depot (Edinburg), 98, 155<br />

Southern Pacific Depot (McAllen), 98<br />

Southern Pacific Railroad, 97-98, 113, 121-<br />

122, 152, 155-157<br />

Southern Union Gas Company, 179<br />

Southmost Family Medical Center, 188<br />

Southwest Airlines, 177<br />

Southwestern Bell Telephone Company, 178<br />

Spain, 9-10, 12-14, 22-23, 25, 27, 51, 66, 80,<br />

90-91, 119, 132, 145, 149<br />

Spanish cattle, 51<br />

Spanish colonies in Texas, 27<br />

Spanish colonists in 1848, 43<br />

Spanish customs and culture, 46<br />

Spanish island settlements, 9<br />

Spiderweb Railroad, 98, 110<br />

Sprague Ranch, 136<br />

Sprague, William Frederick, 90, 136, 152-153<br />

St. Joseph the Worker Church (McAllen), 50<br />

St. Joseph’s Church, 88<br />

St. Joseph’s College, 47<br />

St. Louis, Brownsville, and Mexico Railroad,<br />

56, 68, 96-98, 104, 115, 131, 136, 139,<br />

141, 174<br />

St. Louis, Missouri, 89, 96, 99, 112, 120, 122,<br />

153<br />

St. Mary’s University, 148<br />

St. Peter’s Novitiate (Mission), 145<br />

Stanolind Oil and Gas Company, 181-182<br />

Star Ruby grapefruit, 161-162<br />

Starck, Fred, 85<br />

Starr County, 6, 20, 43-44, 60, 62-63, 73, 167,<br />

180, 188<br />

Starr County Hospital District, 188<br />

Starr County Industrial Foundation, 62<br />

Starr County Medical Society, 185<br />

Starr County Memorial Hospital, 188<br />

Starr, James Harper, 44<br />

Starr-Camargo Bridge Company, 171<br />

Starr-Camargo International Bridge, 171<br />

Stars Drive-In Restaurants, 123<br />

State of Texas, 22, 45, 166<br />

steamboats, 48,-50, 57, 59-60, 67, 70, 75, 77,<br />

85, 172<br />

Stephens, Joe, 125<br />

Stewart, W. E., 124<br />

Stillman House Museum (Brownsville), 45, 46<br />

Stillman, Charles, 45, 46, 48, 49, 55, 104<br />

Stillman, Chauncey, 45<br />

Stillman, Elizabeth Pamela Goodrich, 45<br />

Stillman, Isabel, 45<br />

Stillman, James, 45<br />

Stillman, Texas, 104<br />

Stonewall Jackson Hotel, 110, 111<br />

Stuart Place, 118<br />

Stuart, C. E., 118<br />

Stuart, Robert, 118<br />

sugarcane production, 132, 160<br />

Sullivan City, Texas, 151<br />

Summers, Bill, 174<br />

Sun Country Airlines, 177<br />

Sun Deck Apartments, 121<br />

Swallow Company, 134<br />

Swallow, Texas see Alamo, Texas<br />

Swallow, C. H., 134<br />

Swallow, F. A., 134<br />

Swann, E. C., 112<br />

Swann, Eunice, 113<br />

Swann, Frances, 113<br />

Swann, James, 113<br />

Swann, Susie, 112<br />

T<br />

Tabasco, Texas, 151<br />

Tabasco Folkloric Group (La Joya), 151<br />

Tamaulipas, Mexico, 14-15, 26, 31, 35, 45, 56,<br />

71-72, 78, 91, 128<br />

Tamm, Alfred, 114<br />

Tampacuas Ranch/Rancho Tampacuas<br />

(Mercedes), 47, 87<br />

Tampico, Tamaulipas, Mexico, 10, 13, 15, 80,<br />

137<br />

Tandy Hall, 114<br />

Tandy, A. N., 114<br />

Tandy, Cleve, 114<br />

Tandy, Clyde, 114<br />

Taormina, A. F., 133<br />

Taylor, Zachary, 35-44, 48, 62, 66, 84, 114,<br />

129, 171, 173<br />

Texan Hotel (Pharr), 140<br />

Texas A&I University, 165<br />

Texas A&M Experiment Station, 126<br />

Texas A&M Research and Extension Center,<br />

94, 163-166<br />

Texas A&M University, 160, 161, 165<br />

Texas A&M University-Kingsville Citrus<br />

Center, 165<br />

Texas A&M-Kingsville Citrus Center, 126, 162<br />

Texas Air Museum (<strong>Rio</strong> Hondo), 115, 177<br />

Texas Christian University, 130, 132<br />

Texas Citrus Exchange, 150, 162<br />

Texas Citrus Fiesta (Mission), 149<br />

Texas Citrus Fruit Growers Exchange, 147<br />

Texas Citrus Mutual, 150, 161, 162<br />

Texas Department of Agriculture, 83<br />

Texas Department of Public Health, 186<br />

Texas Department of Transportation, 67, 141,<br />

173, 190<br />

Texas Department of Transportation District<br />

16, 173<br />

Texas Department of Transportation District<br />

21, 159, 173<br />

Texas Fruit Growers’ Exchange, 146<br />

Texas <strong>Historic</strong>al Commission, 52, 111<br />

Texas International Airlines, 177<br />

Texas International Fishing Tournament, 68<br />

Texas Medical Association, 185<br />

Texas National Guard, 142<br />

Texas National Guard Super Armory, 126<br />

Texas Parks & Wildlife, 56, 150, 190<br />

Texas Plastics (Elsa), 156<br />

Texas Produce Association, 150<br />

Texas Rangers, 70, 71, 78, 142, 171<br />

Texas <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Onion Festival<br />

(Weslaco), 127<br />

Texas Secession Convention, 70, 73<br />

Texas State Bank (Hidalgo), 64-65<br />

Texas State Bank (McAllen), 143<br />

Texas State <strong>Historic</strong>al Association, 71<br />

Texas State Technical College (Harlingen), 108<br />

Texas Vegetable Association, 150<br />

Texas Water Rights Commission, 100<br />

Texas-Louisiana Baseball League, 155<br />

Texas-Mexico Railroad, 50<br />

TexaSweet Citrus Marketing, 150, 162<br />

Texsun Citrus Corporation (Weslaco), 126,<br />

162<br />

Third Infantry Regiment, 38<br />

Thompson, Albert, 122<br />

Tichenor Media System, 120<br />

Tichenor, McHenry, 120<br />

Tio Cano Lake (Santa Rosa), 121<br />

Tip-O-Texan, 102, 118<br />

Tobin, W. G., 71<br />

Toluca Ranch (Progreso), 87, 124<br />

Tornel, José Maris, 32<br />

Torrejón, Anastacio, 38<br />

tourism industry, 60, 108-109, 118, 124, 133,<br />

141, 144-145, 153-154, 162, 166, 188-<br />

189, 190<br />

transportation, 48, 49, 53, 57, 77, 109, 116,<br />

145, 152, 171, 173, 174, 175, 181<br />

Trans-Texas Airways, 177<br />

Treasures of the Gulf Museum (Port Isabel),<br />

67, 69, 175<br />

Treaty of 1884, 99<br />

Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 18, 20, 40, 42,<br />

44, 60, 61, 99, 167<br />

Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo provisions, 42<br />

Treaty of Velasco, 30, 34<br />

Tres Norias, 112<br />

Treviño de Yturria, Felicitas, 46, 56<br />

Treviño, Berta, 154<br />

Tribune, The, 123<br />

Tri-Cities Municipal Airport, 149<br />

Trist, Nicholas P., 40<br />

Tropical Texas Center for Mental Health and<br />

Mental Retardation, 145, 187<br />

Turner, W. H., 128<br />

Twin Cities of the Border and the Country of the<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong>, 63, 84<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

396


U<br />

U.S. Army at Hidalgo, 63<br />

U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, 167<br />

U.S. Customs Service (Hidalgo), 46, 63<br />

U.S. Department of Agriculture, 55, 126-127,<br />

148, 149, 160, 164-166, 169<br />

U.S. Department of the Interior, 39<br />

U.S. Highway 281, 52, 85, 141, 173<br />

U.S. Highway 77, 104, 169, 173, 188<br />

U.S. Highway 83, 97, 119, 138-139, 141, 151,<br />

173, 180, 188<br />

U.S. Highway I-69, 173-174<br />

U.S. Industrial Chemicals, 181-182<br />

U.S. State Department, 40<br />

U.S.-Mexican War, 20, 22, 35, 39-40, 54, 57,<br />

61, 68, 99, 174<br />

U.S.-Mexico Water Treaty of 1944, 167<br />

U.S.S. Iwo Jima, 177<br />

Union Carbide Corporation (Brownsville),<br />

181-182<br />

Union Pacific Railroad, 98, 169<br />

University of Texas at Austin, 157<br />

University of Texas Regional Academic Health<br />

Center, 108, 185-186<br />

University of Texas System, 154<br />

University of Texas-Brownsville and Texas<br />

Southmost College, 76-77, 114, 117-118,<br />

185, 251<br />

University of Texas Pan-American (Edinburg),<br />

147-148, 154-155, 189<br />

Urrea, José de, 29<br />

USDA Agricultural Research Service, 165<br />

USDA Fruit and Vegetable Products Laboratory,<br />

162<br />

USDA Pink Bollworm Research Center, 165,<br />

166<br />

USDA Screwworm Eradication Project, 166<br />

V<br />

Valdes, A. G. “Tony”, Sr., 125<br />

Vale, John, 58<br />

Vale, Sam, 184<br />

Valente, Antonio, 67<br />

Valente, Ramona Dominguez, 67<br />

Valladolid, Yucatan, Mexico, 24<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Air Care (Harlingen), 188<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Health System (Harlingen), 108,<br />

185-186<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Hospital, 186<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center, 185-186<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Community Hospital, 188<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> International Airport (Harlingen), 108,<br />

177<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Proud History-Cookbook, 158<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Medical Center (Brownsville),<br />

188<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Telephone Cooperative, 178<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Transit Company, Inc., 107, 174<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Zoological Society, 190<br />

Vanderbilt, Cornelius, 142<br />

Vargas, Joe, 123<br />

Vargas, Sylvia, 123<br />

Vásquez, Francisco, 13<br />

Vaughan, Ben F., 86<br />

vegetable production, 110, 122, 160, 161<br />

Vela, Crisoforo, 171<br />

Vela, Leonor, 87<br />

Vela, Macedonio, 86<br />

Vela, Mercedes, 86<br />

Vela, Salvador, 87<br />

Velasco, 30, 34<br />

Velasco, Luis de, 23<br />

Velásquez, Diego, 9<br />

Veracruz, Mexico, 22<br />

Veracruz, Veracruz, Mexico, 9, 10, 12, 30, 33-<br />

34, 39, 65, 80, 81<br />

Verizon, 178<br />

Veterans International Bridge (Brownsville),<br />

169<br />

Victoria, Guadalupe, 26, 28<br />

Victoria, Texas, 31<br />

Vietnam War, 115<br />

Villa Cápital de Santander, 20<br />

Villa de Cortez (Weslaco), 126<br />

Villa Maria Clinic, 188<br />

Villa Santa Ana de Camargo, 16<br />

Villa, Francisco “Pancho”, 92-93<br />

Village Mills, 128<br />

Villareal, Raul, Jr., 123<br />

Viña, Juan Manuel de la, 153<br />

Vincent, Vern, 189<br />

Vinsant, Wilma “Dolly”, 186<br />

Virgen de San Juan del Valle Shrine, 138<br />

Viva Zapata, 59<br />

Volz, Mrs. Charles, 145<br />

W<br />

W. E. Stewart Land Company-Weslaco, 124<br />

Waco, Texas, 138<br />

Wade, Jim, 155<br />

Wallace, Lew, 41<br />

Waller, M. L., 143<br />

War of the Reform, 80<br />

Waters, Newell, 127<br />

Washburn, Dale, 133<br />

Washington County, 78<br />

Washington-on-the-Brazos, 29, 34<br />

Weaver, Walter W., Sr., 132<br />

Webb County, 44<br />

Webb, James, 44<br />

Webber Ranch, 87<br />

Webber, John F., 87<br />

Webber, Silvia Hector, 87<br />

Webber’s Prairie, 87<br />

Weems, W. Z., 102, 107<br />

Wehmeyer, Freda, 120<br />

Wehmeyer, Laura, 120<br />

Wells Fargo Bank (Los Fresnos), 112, 114<br />

Wells Fargo Bank (Pharr), 140<br />

Wells, James B., 68, 96<br />

Wells, Jim, 122<br />

Weslaco Bicultural Museum, 108, 127, 178<br />

Weslaco City Hall, 127<br />

Weslaco Hotel, 125-126<br />

Weslaco Mid-<strong>Valley</strong> Airport, 126, 177<br />

Weslaco Public Library, 127<br />

Weslaco Town Center, 126<br />

Weslaco Trailer Park, 188-189<br />

Weslaco, Texas, 20, 94, 100, 123-127, 148,<br />

156-157, 162, 164-165, 170, 178-179,<br />

182, 186, 188-190<br />

Wesley Manor, 127<br />

West, Duval, 122<br />

Western Union, 178<br />

Whipple, Harry, 112-113<br />

Whitley, David, 124<br />

Wilcoxon Grocery Store (Santa Rosa), 121<br />

Wild Birds Unlimited, 190<br />

Wild Horse Desert, 31, 35-36, 44, 51-52, 54,<br />

95<br />

Willacy County, 6, 20, 21, 43, 44, 56, 73, 103,<br />

104, 105, 164, 166, 178<br />

Willacy County Courthouse, 104<br />

Willacy County Navigation District, 175<br />

Willacy, John, 44<br />

Willamar, 104<br />

William C. Gorgas, 117<br />

William, John Jefferson, 75<br />

Williamson-Dickie Manufacturing Company,<br />

182<br />

Wilson, Woodrow, 93, 146<br />

Woll, Adrián, 31<br />

Wood, Edward A., 156<br />

Woods, Otto, 180<br />

World Birding Center (Brownsville), 190<br />

World Birding Center (Mission), 109, 150, 190<br />

World Birding Center (Weslaco), 127, 190<br />

World War I, 93, 115, 132, 143, 147<br />

World War II, 46, 93, 107, 111, 125, 135,<br />

148, 149, 161, 177, 180, 186<br />

Y<br />

Yates, H. L., 116<br />

Ye Old Clock Museum (Pharr), 141<br />

Yoakum, B. F., 95, 98, 109, 122<br />

Yoakum, Dwight, 123<br />

Yorktown, 129<br />

Young, John, 44, 63, 83, 152<br />

Yturria Bank, 46<br />

Yturria Garcia, Isabel, 56<br />

Yturria, Daniel, 56<br />

Yturria, Francisco, 46, 56, 96<br />

Yturria, Frank, 56<br />

Yuma, Arizona, 42<br />

Z<br />

Zacatecas, Mexico, 22, 31<br />

Zapata, 167<br />

Zapata County, 6, 167<br />

Zapata, Emiliano, 92<br />

Zapotec, The, 80<br />

Zaragosa, Ignacio, 80<br />

Zavala, Lorenzo de, 30<br />

Zedillo, Ernesto, 169<br />

Zumarraga, Juan de, 11<br />

INDEX<br />

397


HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

398<br />

SPONSORS<br />

Alamo Bank of Texas.............................................................................................................................................................375<br />

Aloe Farms by Mark Berry ....................................................................................................................................................336<br />

Atlas & Hall, L.L.P. ................................................................................................................................................................360<br />

Barbee-Neuhaus Implement Company ..................................................................................................................................380<br />

Best Western Palm Aire Hotel & Suites .................................................................................................................................377<br />

Boggus Ford ..........................................................................................................................................................................338<br />

Brownsville Regional Medical Center ....................................................................................................................................302<br />

The Brownsville & Matamoros Bridge Company...................................................................................................................240<br />

Wallace Boudreaux, The Shrimp King of Texas .....................................................................................................................352<br />

Burton Auto Supply ..............................................................................................................................................................381<br />

Campeche Seafood Products, Inc. .........................................................................................................................................340<br />

Cardenas Auto Group ...........................................................................................................................................................356<br />

Cardiovascular Associates......................................................................................................................................................314<br />

Catholic Diocese of Brownsville ............................................................................................................................................292<br />

Cingular Wireless ..................................................................................................................................................................369<br />

City of Brownsville................................................................................................................................................................198<br />

City of Donna .......................................................................................................................................................................222<br />

City of Edcouch ....................................................................................................................................................................224<br />

City of Harlingen ..................................................................................................................................................................202<br />

City of Hidalgo and Hidalgo Economic Development Corporation.......................................................................................226<br />

City of La Feria .....................................................................................................................................................................228<br />

City of McAllen .....................................................................................................................................................................218<br />

City of Mercedes and Economic Development Corporation of Mercedes ..............................................................................206<br />

City of Mission ......................................................................................................................................................................210<br />

City of Pharr and Pharr Economic Development Corporation...............................................................................................230<br />

City of Raymondville.............................................................................................................................................................232<br />

City of Roma .........................................................................................................................................................................234<br />

City of San Benito .................................................................................................................................................................236<br />

City of Weslaco .....................................................................................................................................................................238<br />

COSTEP and STHEA.............................................................................................................................................................264<br />

Deborah Case Dance Academy..............................................................................................................................................289<br />

Echo Hotel & Conference Center..........................................................................................................................................385<br />

Edinburg Consolidated Independent School District.............................................................................................................274<br />

Food Bank of the <strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, Inc. ..............................................................................................................................320<br />

Golden Palms Retirement & Health Center...........................................................................................................................300<br />

Greater Mission Chamber of Commerce................................................................................................................................221<br />

The Harding Foundation.......................................................................................................................................................323<br />

Heart Clinic, P.A....................................................................................................................................................................322<br />

H-E-B....................................................................................................................................................................................328<br />

The Hester-Jones Family .......................................................................................................................................................324<br />

John Knox Village .................................................................................................................................................................306<br />

Jones, Galligan, Key & Lozano, L.L.P. ...................................................................................................................................374<br />

JP Morgan Chase...................................................................................................................................................................195<br />

K-10 Enterprises, Inc. ...........................................................................................................................................................379<br />

KRGV-TV5 ............................................................................................................................................................................330<br />

The Krishnan Family.............................................................................................................................................................309<br />

La Joya Independent School District .....................................................................................................................................252<br />

The Lloyd Bentsen Family.....................................................................................................................................................310


Lockheed Martin Space Systems Company ...........................................................................................................................354<br />

Marion R. Lawler, Jr., M.D. ...................................................................................................................................................301<br />

Magic <strong>Valley</strong> Electric Cooperative, Inc...................................................................................................................................244<br />

Marine Military Academy ......................................................................................................................................................286<br />

McAllen Independent School District....................................................................................................................................270<br />

Mercedes Independent School District ..................................................................................................................................282<br />

Olivarez Ranches by Kathy Olivarez......................................................................................................................................370<br />

Paseo de la Resau ..................................................................................................................................................................195<br />

Payne Dealer Group ..............................................................................................................................................................344<br />

Pharr/Reynosa International Bridge .......................................................................................................................................246<br />

Planned Parenthood Association of Cameron & Willacy Counties ........................................................................................319<br />

Planned Parenthood Association of Hidalgo County .............................................................................................................318<br />

Rancho Viejo Resort & Country Club ...................................................................................................................................358<br />

Raymondville Independent School District ...........................................................................................................................272<br />

Region One Education Service Center...................................................................................................................................288<br />

Reynolds International, L.P. ...................................................................................................................................................366<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> City Consolidated Independent School District ..................................................................................................280<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Partnership...............................................................................................................................................249<br />

<strong>Rio</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Sugar Growers, Inc...................................................................................................................................376<br />

<strong>Rio</strong>s of Mercedes ...................................................................................................................................................................348<br />

Roma Independent School District ........................................................................................................................................276<br />

San Benito Independent School District ................................................................................................................................266<br />

SBC Communications Inc. ....................................................................................................................................................368<br />

Sea Garden Sales Company ...................................................................................................................................................350<br />

Sebastian Cotton & Grain Corporation .................................................................................................................................384<br />

Security 1st Federal Credit Union formerly Hidalgo Federal Credit Union ...........................................................................371<br />

Sharyland Independent School District .................................................................................................................................258<br />

South Texas Community College ..........................................................................................................................................268<br />

South Texas Independent School District ..............................................................................................................................278<br />

South Texas Vo-Tech .............................................................................................................................................................256<br />

St. Paul Lutheran Church......................................................................................................................................................305<br />

Starr-Camargo Bridge Company ............................................................................................................................................242<br />

Texair Company, Inc. ............................................................................................................................................................373<br />

Texan Guest Ranch................................................................................................................................................................364<br />

Texas A&M and USDA Research Centers ..............................................................................................................................284<br />

Texas Citrus Fiesta ................................................................................................................................................................325<br />

Texas State Bank....................................................................................................................................................................332<br />

Texas State Technical College Harlingen................................................................................................................................287<br />

Town of South Padre Island ..................................................................................................................................................214<br />

University of Texas at Brownsville and Texas Southmost College ..........................................................................................254<br />

The University of Texas Pan-American..................................................................................................................................262<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Armature & Electric....................................................................................................................................................386<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Baptist Medical Center ................................................................................................................................................296<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Co-op Oil Mill ............................................................................................................................................................346<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Fruit & Vegetable Company, Inc. ................................................................................................................................383<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Grande</strong> Manor Nursing & Rehabilitation....................................................................................................................312<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> International Airport ...................................................................................................................................................248<br />

<strong>Valley</strong> Regional Medical Center .............................................................................................................................................321<br />

Villa de Cortez ......................................................................................................................................................................378<br />

Villalba Group, Inc................................................................................................................................................................362<br />

The Walsh Family & Mission Shippers, Inc. .........................................................................................................................372<br />

SPONSORS<br />

399


Weaks Martin Implement Company, Inc. ..............................................................................................................................382<br />

Wells Fargo ...........................................................................................................................................................................342<br />

Weslaco Independent School District ....................................................................................................................................260<br />

Whataburger .........................................................................................................................................................................334<br />

HISTORIC RIO GRANDE VALLEY<br />

400


ISBN: 1-893619-22-2

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