QUILTsocial Issue 13

Q
eat,
ISSUE13
UILTsocial
sleep, quilt, repeat!
* PLUS *
Quilted Tic Tac Toe
Game Board
Bowl Cozies
Cushion Cover
for a Porch Bench
Flying Geese
Quilt
essential tips
* how to make & apply
covered cording
* making a decorative binding
* best kept secret to beautiful
quilting designs
* exploring utility stitches
* quilting with decorative
stitches
* how to use Therm Fleece in
quilted projects
* 8 essential tips for
embroidering
free standing lace
1

DESIGNER
BRILLIANCE 80
Sewing &
Embroidery Machine
•JoyOS ADVISOR
• mySewnet —Wi-Fi
Connectivity
• deLuxe STITCH SYSTEM
• 7” Large display with
capacitive touch
•Embroider designs up to
360x350mm
•Interchangeable Dual Feed
foot included
Introducing the Newest
in Sewing and Embroidery Innovation from
HUSQVARNA VIKING ®
BRILLIANCE 75Q
Computerized
Sewing Machine
•Interactive Colour Touch
Screen
• EXCLUSIVE SEWING
ADVISOR ®
• 10” (250mm) of spacious
sewing surface
•Exclusive stitch techniques:
Dimensional stitches
and Theme stitches
•Straight stitch needle
plate and sensor
VIKING, DESIGNER BRILLIANCE, BRILLIANCE, JOYOS ADVISOR, DELUXE, MYSEWNET, EXCLUSIVE SENSOR
VIKING, DESIGNER BRILLIANCE, BRILLIANCE, JOYOS ADVISOR, DELUXE, MYSEWNET, EXCLUSIVE SENSOR
SYSTEM, and EXCLUSIVE SEWING ADVISOR are exclusive trademarks of Singer Sewing Limited LLC. HUSQVARNA
SYSTEM, and EXCLUSIVE SEWING ADVISOR are exclusive trademarks of Singer Sewing Limited LLC. HUSQVARNA
and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. ©2018 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. All rights reserved.
and the “H” Crown Device are trademarks of Husqvarna AB. ©2018 Singer Sourcing Limited LLC. All rights reserved.
www.husqvarnaviking.com/en-CA

editor's letter
Every time you sit at your sewing machine is
it work or play?
I've been working on my Spirals
quilt, a quilt that was almost
abandoned. But through some
act of fate, it was ripped out and
redesigned and used to practice
quilting using decorative stitches.
I learned that it's best to keep the
decorative stitches from crossing
the seam intersections and to
use simpler, 'quiet' stitches for less
overall movement. Mesmerized,
I watched all the edges of the
spirals stitch out, that's a lot of
rows! A laser pointer would have
made the task a lot easier to
keep all my decorative stitches
straighter, but now I'm nitpicking.
More on this quilt in the next issue.
In this issue, the fun continues.
Sarah Vanderburgh has made
a tic tac toe game board using
Banyan Batiks Recess fabric
collection, making it a great gift
for toddlers (and a quiet one?)
See what Christine Baker has to
say about her experience and
cool tips on using utilitarian and
decorative stitches on the Brother
Dreamweaver XE to quilt. The
possibilities for quilting options
are indeed infinite!
Claire Haillot has a lot of fun
adding oomph to a simple
binding using the PFAFF creative
icon stitch creator. If you're uber
creative and can imagine all
sorts of quilting designs, this may
be for you!
Jean Boyd shows you how to
play with strips to make a bench
cushion and we know, there too,
the combinations are endless.
You'll love how this project gives
you the freedom to choose your
ideal combination of strips.
It's still that time of year when
hot soups are such a comfort, see
how easy it is to make a bowl
cozy for that yummy bowl of
soup. And actually, I'll be honest
I'm not a winter person, but I
enjoy how winter offers me more
time at the sewing machine than
let's say… outside in the garden.
Enjoy the issue!
Cheerfully,
follow me on
Q
UILTsocial
.com | issue 13
3

Q
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eat, sleep, quilt, repeat
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PUBLISHER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR
Carla A. Canonico
carla@QUILTsocial.com
PUBLISHER, ADVERTISING SALES
John De Fusco
john@QUILTsocial.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS
John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico
BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS
Christine Baker
fairfieldroaddesigns.com
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithclaire.com
Jean Boyd
patternsbyjeanboyd.com
Sarah Vanderburgh
sewjoycreations.com
GRAPHIC & WEB DESIGN
Carla A. Canonico
carla@QUILTsocial.com
Sondra Armas
WEB and IT Support
Alejandro Araujo
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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY
QUILTsocial is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle
Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at
https://QUILTsocial.com.
A limited number of printed copies of QUILTsocial are available
for purchase at select quilt shops and specialty stores. Ask for it
at your local shop. QUILTsocial is not available by subscription.
QUILT SHOPS
If you are interested in carrying QUILTsocial in your store, please
email john@QUILTsocial.com.
EDITORIAL
Designers and other contributors who would like to be
considered for future issues please email carla@QUILTsocial.com
with a brief description of your work and your proposed project
for the magazine.
©2019 QUILTsocial. All rights reserved. Issue 13. ISSN 2368-5913.
No part of this publication may be reproduced without written
permission from the publisher.
All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for
private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material
owned by their respective creators or owners.
Advertiser Index
48 A Needle Pulling Thread Magazine
17 Banyan Batiks
47 Brother
46 Business Directory
39 Coats
27 Gütermann Creativ
02 Husqvarna Viking
44 Melissa Marginet
43 PFAFF
42 QUILTsocial.com
Q
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UILTsocial

QUILTsocial
issue 13
c o n t e n t s
06
07
08
09
11
12
13
14
15
18
20
21
24
26
28
30
32
34
35
40
6 fun fat quarters turn into a quilted game
Piecing X blocks for quilted game
Piecing O blocks for quilted game using trendy Banyan Batiks, Recess
Making a quilted tic tac toe game board
Completing the quilted tic tac toe game set
Bowl cozies: a fun and useful project!
5 easy steps to finish your bowl cozy
Making a cushion cover for the porch
Arrange strips, sew and spray baste
How to make and apply covered cording like a pro!
The beauty of quilting with the PFAFF creative icon
PFAFF creative icon stitch creator lets you add oomph to a simple binding
Why I’m so excited about the PFAFF ImageStitch app
The best kept secret tobeautiful quilting designs
How the PFAFF creative icon helped me finish a UFO quilt
Exploring utility stitches on the Brother Dreamweaver XE
Infinite possibilities for quilting with decorative stitches
Machine quilting with a serpentine stitch
Decorative stitches plus laser pointer = beautiful machine quilting
8 essential tips for embroidering free standing lace
Q
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issue 13 5

6 fun fat
quarters
turn into a
quilted game
Sarah Vanderburgh
Quilted game made with Recess line from Banyan batiks
How fun is this?! The Recess line from Banyan batiks is now in quilt
shops and the designs definitely shout fun. But not just any kind
of fun – fun with friends, outdoor fun, but especially fun to be had
when playing games!
This line of fabric inspired me to create a game to play, well,
anywhere! Not an original game, but a classic one, pieced and
quilted to travel or simply take outside to the backyard. Maybe
a teacher might even enjoy having it in a classroom? Shhh! Let’s
go play in our sewing rooms and make this quilted game using
Northcott’s latest, Banyan Batiks.
materials
The 6 fat quarters from the Recess line used in this sample are:
• board game top fabric 80115-91
• board game backing fabric 80110-29
• symbol fabric X 80114-63
• symbol fabric X background fabric 80110-94
• symbol fabric O 80114-99
• symbol fabric O background fabric 80111-43
You’ll also need some batting to quilt the game board and pieces:
• cut one piece 18” x 21½” for the board
• cut ten 5½” squares for the game pieces
There’s enough fabric to make a travel bag to carry all the game
pieces too! On to the cutting instructions.
Quilted game board tied up
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Photos by Sarah Vanderburgh

cutting instructions
symbol fabric X 80114-63
• 5 – 5½” squares
• 5 – 1½” x 8½” strips
• 5 – 1½” x 9½” strips
symbol fabric X background fabric
80110-94
• 2 – 1½” x 21 strips
• 5 – 5½” squares
Cut pieces from fat quarter in this order
to make best use of fabric:
Cut 1 – 3” x 21” strip.
Subcut into 2 – 1½” x 21” strips.
Cut 2 – 5½” x 21” strips.
Subcut into a total of 5 – 5½” squares.
Reserve 4” x 21” strip.
symbol fabric O 80114-99
Cut 6 – 1½” x 21 strips.
Subcut strips to make total pieces
required, starting with longest strips and
working down to squares.
• 10 – 1½” x 5½” strips
• 10 – 1½” x 3½” strips
• 20 – 1½” squares
symbol fabric O background fabric
80111-43
Cut pieces from fat quarter in this order
to make best use of fabric:
Cut 2 – 5½” x 18 strips.
Subcut 1 strip into 3 – 5½” squares;
subcut remaining strip into 3 – 1½”
squares.
Subcut second strip into 2 – 5½” squares
and 4 more 1½” wide strips – cut each
strip into 3 more 1½” squares.
Cut 1 – 3½” x 18 strip.
Subcut into 5 – 3½” squares.
From remaining fabric cut 3 – 1½” wide
strips (should be around 3½” in length).
Subcut into 1½” squares to get to total of
20 – 1½” squares.
The game board fabric will be cut as
it’s made.
We’re off to a good start! Cutting into
these fun fat quarters of Recess fabric
makes me want to play in my sewing
room all day.
Quilted X block game pieces.
Quilted O block game pieces.
Piecing X blocks for quilted game
The Recess fabric line has some bold
colorways to choose from, but I chose
to go with the gray-blue and the purple
colorway and its 'masculine' looking prints.
Let’s continue with the pieced X
blocks!
Make X blocks
1. Cut one fabric X background square
through one diagonal.
2. Sew one cut edge to a long side of
Fabric X 1½” x 8½” strip; press the
seam to the background fabric.
3. Sew the remaining background half
along its cut edge to the opposite
side of the Fabric X strip, lining up
the two background halves using the
points as visual guides.
Press the seam to the background fabric.
Background cut on diagonal with X strip ready to sew
4. Cut diagonally through the unit
opposite the pieced in Fabric X fabric.
5. Sew one cut edge to a long side of
Fabric X 1½” x 9½” strip; press the
seam to the background fabric.
Second diagonal cut
6. Sew the remaining half of unit along
it’s cut edge to the opposite side of
the Fabric X strip; this time you can
also use the pieced strip in Fabric X
to line up the halves visually.
Press the seam to the background fabric.
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issue 13 7

Line up inset strips and pin halves together.
Trim the pieced X block to size.
7. Trim the unit to 5½”
square. I used a 6½”
square ruler and lined up
the guidelines to make
my first two cuts along
the top and right sides.
Then I turned my unit and
trimmed again. I did this two
times and kept lining up my
5½” guide marks on the ruler
as well as the diagonal line
in the middle of the ruler
through the middle of my
Fabric X.
8. Repeat steps 1-7 to make
4 more X blocks.
The pieced X blocks are ready.
I really like the blue print
from the Recess fabric line – it
makes me think of outdoor
fun! Next up, we piece some
O blocks.
Five pieced X blocks
Piecing O blocks
for quilted game
using trendy Banyan
Batiks, Recess
Opposite corner squares sewn onto middle
unit square
We’ll use two different fat quarters from
the Recess fabric line to make pieced O
blocks.
Make O blocks
To make one O block you’ll need:
from O fabric
• 2 – 1½” x 5½” strips
• 2 – 1½” x 3½” strips
• 4 – 1½” squares
from O background fabric
• 1 – 3½” square
• 4 – 1½” squares
Make middle unit
1. Place one symbol fabric O square
right side down on corner.
2. Sew diagonally through middle of
square parallel to corner – see photo
on the left.
3. Repeat on opposite corner.
4. Cut corners leaving seam allowance.
Press the seams to the added squares.
5. Repeat on remaining 2 corners. Unit
should measure 3½” square.
Corner squares trimmed and pressed
Four corner triangles added
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Steps to make top and bottom rows of pieced
O blocks
Make top and bottom units
1. Place one background fabric square
right side down on one end of a
Fabric O 1½” x 5½” strip.
2. Sew diagonally parallel to the corner.
See photo.
3. Repeat on opposite end of the strip
with second background fabric
square, with the diagonal again
parallel to the corner.
4. Cut corners off leaving seam
allowances. Press the seams to the
added squares.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 on the remaining
1½” x 5½” strips.
Making a quilted
tic tac toe
game board
Now all we need is a board to play on!
My husband really likes the fabric I
picked to use as the background for the
quilted game board.
Cut background fabric into 3 – 6½” x
18” strips.
1. Sew 1½” x 18” Fabric O background
strip between two pieces of
background fabric; press seams to
the background fabric.
2. Sew second background strip
to opposite site of Fabric O
background strip.
Layout of three rows to make pieced O block
Assemble middle row
1. Sew long edge of 1½” x 3½” strip to
one side of the 3½” square unit; press
the seam to the strip.
2. Sew remaining 1½” x 3½” strip to the
opposite side of the 3½” square unit;
press the seam to the strip.
Layout for middle row assembly of pieced O block
3. Repeat with a second Fabric O
background strip to the sewn unit
followed by final background strip.
Press seams to the background fabric.
Layout for adding columns to game board.
Five completed pieced O blocks
Assemble O block
1. Sew one 1½” x 5½” strip unit to the
top and one to the bottom of the
unit made in step 2; press the seams
to the added strips.
The block should measure 5½” square.
Repeat to make 4 more pieced O blocks.
The Os are almost ready to play with the
Xs – both still need to be quilted into
game pieces. I really like how the flying
paper planes get some special attention
in the middle of the pieced O blocks. The
Recess fabric line has been nothing but
fun to design with and create this quilted
game.
Quilted game board
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issue 13 9

4. Cut the unit horizontally into 3 – 5¾”
x 20½” background units.
5. Sew a 1½” x 20½” Fabric O strip
between the three units to make the
game board. Press the seams to the
background units.
But wait, I almost forgot!
Before sewing, make a thin tie out of
Fabric O background fabric to sew into
the game board seam:
1. Cut a 1½” x 20½” strip of Fabric O
background fabric.
2. Lay Right Side Down on ironing
surface and press ¼” over to the back.
Repeat on other edges.
3. Press ¼” over at each end then fold
and press the two pressed edges
together.
4. Sew one seam down the middle of
the tie.
I put safety pins in at this point through
all three layers of the top to keep the
layers from shifting before quilting it.
Change to a quilting needle and
embroidery presser foot to topstitch
around the board.
Lining up blue strips and pinning final
background row to board.
Game board should measure 18” x 20½”.
Turning gap pinned and safety pins in the
game board.
Remember to watch for the tie and keep
it on the other side of the needle when
topstitching!
Completed game board top
Trim backing fat quarter to size (18” x
20½”).
Layer batting with backing Right Side Up
on top, then the game board Right Side
Down.
Pin all the way around leaving a 2” – 3”
turning gap along one short side.
Layers of game board ready for envelope method
Tie edges pressed to the wrong side
Bend the tie in half and pin the folded
end between the backing and game
board in the middle of the short side
opposite the side with the turning gap.
See the photo below.
Sew all the way around the game board
to sew the layers together, backstitching
at each end of the turning gap and over
the folded tie end for extra strength.
Check that all three layers are secured in
the seam all the way around the board,
then clip the excess seam allowance at
each corner.
Turn the layers through the turning gap
and roll the seams flat with your fingers.
Use a tool of your choice to push out the
board corners.
Topstitching game board with a tie to the right of
the stitching
I stitched ¼” away from the strips on
the board. You can add more quilting if
you’d like.
The game board is quilted. The Recess
fabric really gets to show off on the
board, doesn’t it? All that’s left is to quilt
the game pieces with some more Recess
fabric and make a traveling bag for them.
A little more sewing before we can play!
Tie tucked between layers to be sewn into seam
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Completing the quilted tic tac toe game set
I’ve had some serious fun sewing Banyan
Batiks Recess fabric into a quilted game.
Let's finish it!
Make blocks into quilted playing pieces
1. Sandwich playing piece (X or O) with
the corresponding background fabric.
2. Lay batting square on pinning surface.
3. Place backing square Right Side UP.
4. Place pieced block Right Side DOWN.
5. Pin around leaving a 2” turning gap
on one side.
6. Sew around, backstitching on both
sides of the turning gap.
7. Clip corners then turn playing piece
right side out.
8. Finger press gap seam and topstitch
around edge.
Repeat on remaining 9 game pieces.
I quilted the corresponding shapes in
the game pieces too – scroll back up
to the first photo to see. The pieces do
need some quilting to keep them flat
and so that they will hold their shape if
you need to wash them.
Now that the quilting is done it’s time to
make a bag to carry all the game pieces
in. Lucky for us we have enough fabric
leftover from the fat quarters to make
one just the right size.
Pieced O blocks ready to be quilted
Make carrying bag
Trim leftover O fabric to 8” x 21½”.
1. Fold over each short end to make
hems – fold ¼” then ¼” again and sew.
2. Fold fabric in half Right Sides
Together with hems lined up.
3. Before going further make a tie with
leftover X fabric for the bag:
Cut X fabric to 1½” x 15”.
X block pieces
Repeat pressing and folding to make
a tie in the same manner as tie made
for the game board. (press ¼” each side
towards the middle, press in half with
each end folded ¼” in before pressing in
half; sew once down the middle)
4. Fold tie in half and pin approximately
1” – 2” down between the folded bag
fabric and pin to secure.
5. Sew down each side of the
bag, stitching over the tie twice,
backstitching at the hem edge.
6. On one bottom corner of the bag,
line up the ruler with a 1½” square
and cut off a square of fabric under
the ruler.
7. Make boxed corners by opening
the fabric corner then making a
straight edge between the corner
of the square and sew across.
8. Repeat on opposite bottom corner
of bag.
9. Turn the bag right side out.
Optional: Zigzag or serge the seams of
the bag (nice touch for gift giving and
probably necessary if you need to wash
it!)
Now that the sewing fun is over, it’s
time to play with the quilted game! The
‘playability’ is huge and making it portable,
with large size pieces just increases the
fun. From young children to older, take
your quilted game board made from
Recess fabric out for some fun!
Bag fabric hemmed and tie made
Cutting square to box bag corner
Boxed corner seam
Carrying bag beside quilted game pieces
11

Bowl cozies: a fun and useful project!
Jean Boyd
Bowl cozy made from 2 squares of fabric and Therm Fleece
In June 2018, I showed you how to use Therm Fleece to make
some coasters and mug rugs, in my post called How to use
fusible web that goes in your printer and its characteristics.
This heat resistant material is used for hot and cold insulation to
provide protection from hot surfaces up to 390˚. Therm Fleece
is designed as a liner and should not make direct contact with a
heat source. It’s the perfect product to use for potholders, oven
mitts, tea cozies and here – a bowl cozy.
Therm Fleece and fabric ready to be sewn
Bowl cozies are easy to make from just 2 squares of fabric and
are great for holding a hot soup bowl or cold bowl of ice cream
while sitting in front of the television or out on the patio. They
can be made in any size to suit your favorite bowl.
materials
makes 1 bowl cozy
• 2 – 10” squares of fabric. I used fabric from Northcott Banyan
Batiks collection, Visual Sound.
• 2 – 9½” squares of Therm Fleece. Cut a little off the corners to
reduce bulk.
Therm Fleece: perfect for hot mats, mug rugs, bowl cozies and more
Sewing Instructions
• Mark a center horizontal and vertical line on the white side
of each Therm Fleece square.
• Mark a small line on each center line, 2¼” from the outside
edge.
• Pin 1 square of Therm Fleece to the wrong side of each
fabric square. Have the shiny side facing the wrong side of
the fabric.
• Using a walking foot, machine baste Therm Fleece to the
wrong side of one fabric square, stitching close to the edge
of the Therm Fleece. Have the shiny side next to the wrong
side of the fabric. Do the same with the other fabric square.
• Fold the square, with Therm Fleece attached, in half on one
of the drawn lines. Stitch a dart from the small line to the
outer edge, making the dart about ¾” wide. Do this on all 4
sides. Do the same on the other fabric square.
• Cut away the extra fleece from the darts and the outside
edges to eliminate some bulk.
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Mark center lines and pin Therm Fleece to fabric.
Sew a small dart on each side.
Cut away extra fleece from darts.
5 easy steps to finish your bowl cozy
With just a few easy steps, you’ll
have your bowl cozy ready to use
in no time. Let’s get started!
• Layer the 2 fabric squares,
with Therm Fleece attached,
right sides together.
• Attach a walking or even-feed
foot to your machine.
• Using a ½” seam, stitch all
around the outside edge,
leaving a 3” opening for
turning. Try not to leave the
opening where the dart is.
You can slightly round the
corners for a nicer finish.
• Trim seam allowance as
required.
• Turn the bowl right side out
through the opening. Handstitch
the opening closed.
• Top-stitch around the
outside edge.
• You can also do some simple
straight-line quilting in the
center of the bowl to make
sure the layers stay together
smoothly.
Photos by Jean Boyd
Stitch Therm Fleece and fabric layers together.
Simple straight line quilting in the center
Top-stitch around outside edge
This size bowl cozy will fit most regularsize
soup bowls, but it’s easy to make
smaller or larger bowl cozies, just by
changing the size of the fabric squares.
Smaller bowl cozies will need shorter
darts and larger ones will need longer
darts.
You could also use just one square of Therm
Fleece if you wish.
You’re sure to enjoy using up some fabric
scraps along with Therm Fleece to make
some attractive and useful bowl cozies.
Another bonus – they're reversible!
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issue 13 13

Making a cushion cover for the porch
This project is another one that will
help use up some of your fabric stash
and create a bench cushion that will be
perfect for both inside and outside use.
The bench pillow form I used is 16” x 38”
and is available in fabric and craft stores.
I used fabrics from Northcott Banyan Batiks
collection for my bench cushion cover.
materials
• ½ yd [.4m] focus fabric; I used a large
floral print
• ½ yd [.4m] accent fabric (bright
green); this is used for the cushion
front and the corded edge
• ¾ yd [.7m] background fabric
• 1 yd [.9m] cushion back; I used the
focus fabric with the large floral print
• 120” of cording. I used a soft, ½”
diameter Creativ Dekor cotton cording.
Bench cushion
Bench cushion form
cutting instructions
• accent fabric 2 – 1½” x WOF (width of
fabric, approximately 40”)
• background fabric 3 – 8½” x WOF
• focus fabric 2 – 6½” x WOF
• for ease of handling, cut the WOF
strips in half so they measure
approximately 20”.
Let’s start sewing!
• Make a strip set using 2 background
strips, 1 accent strip and 1 focus fabric
strip.
• Press seams in one direction. Press
carefully so you don’t distort the
strip set.
• Cut the strip set into 2½” segments.
You’ll get 8 segments from the strip set.
• Make 2 more strip sets like this and
cut them into 2½” segments. You
need 19 – 2½” segments for the
cushion top, so you’ll only need to
cut 3 segments from the last strip
set. Keep the rest of the strip set for
another project – maybe a smaller
cushion?
Keep reading to learn how to re-arrange
the strips to create your own original
cushion top!
Banyan Batiks fabrics
Strip set cut into 2½” segments
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Arrange
strips,
sew
and
spray
baste
Create your own original design!
Once you have your 19 – 2½” strips cut, it’s time to start arranging them to
create the cushion top. You can use a design wall or lay the strips on the
pillow form until you find a pleasing design.
When you’re satisfied with your design, sew the
strips together using a ¼” seam. Handle carefully
so you don’t stretch or distort the strips.
Design Method 1: Arrange the 2½” strips on a design wall.
Design Method 2: Arrange the 2½” strips on the pillow form.
Sew the strips together.
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Trim the top and bottom of the pieced rectangle so the edges
are even. It should be 38½” wide. If it isn’t, you can add one
more 2½” segment.
Quilting the cushion top
I did some “stitch in the ditch” quilting on all the seam lines
and then added more vertical lines in a random design using
monofilament “invisible” thread. There are several different
invisible threads available in craft and quilt shops. They come in
both light and dark colors, and also in different weights.
You can also use a light-weight thread such as Gütermann 100%
polyester in the color of your choice.
Trim the top and bottom to make the edges even.
Cut 1 piece of lightweight batting (there are several to choose
from) and 1 piece of backing fabric so they are the same size
as the cushion top. The backing fabric won’t show when the
cushion is finished, so this is a good chance to use up some
“ugly” fabric from your stash!
Layer cushion top, batting and backing. Pin or baste the layers
together. 505 Spray can be used for this. Make sure to read the
instructions on the can before using this product. You can also
pin-baste the layers together with safety pins.
Stitch with light-weight or monofilament (invisible) thread.
Make sure to use your walking or even-feed foot when machine
quilting. If you have a foot with an open toe, it makes it even
easier to see where to stitch.
Layer top, batting and backing and baste with 505 Spray or safety pins.
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Use a walking foot for machine quilting.
When the quilting is finished, trim the rectangle to 17” x 39”,
centering the design as desired.
I find that the finished cushion top is a better shape if you
round the corners or cut them on a slight angle. To do this, I
made a cardboard template to use as a guide for cutting. I
started the angle at 3½” from the corner and removed about ½”
of fabric at the widest point at each corner.

Broken Glass is a new Essentials collection that mimics the look of broken
glass. This bold line achieves its radiant color through a process applied
to the fabric by hand. Our master artisan submerses his hands in a gel-like
substance and hand paints each piece. Broken Glass comes in 22 colors and
will give a striking effect to any project!
Visit BanyanBatiks.com to view the entire collection, and use the Product
Finder tool to search for a local quilt shop that carries Broken Glass.
Tilting at Windmills
48’’ x 72’’
by B.B Studio
Free Pattern Download
at BanyanBatiks.com
FREE Pattern & Video Tutorial
Watch the step-by-step tutorial by
Laura Coia of Sew Very Easy as she
creates the Tilting at Windmills quilt
at youtube.com/SewVeryEasy!
17

How to make and
apply covered
cording like a pro!
Bench cushion finished with covered cording
Make the cording
• I used a Creativ Dekor cotton cording
that was ½” in diameter, but a smaller
cord would work equally well.
• From green accent fabric, cut 3 strips
25⁄8” x WOF (width of fabric). Cut the
ends of each strip on a 45° or 60° angle.
• Sew the strips together to make 1
strip long enough to go all around
the cushion top with about 8” extra.
• When you come to the corner, stop
stitching about ½” from the corner
and back stitch. Make a diagonal cut
in the seam allowance of the cording.
This will help to ease the cording
around the corner.
Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the cording.
Cotton cording for the edge finish
• Fold the green strip around the
cording, right side out.
• Using a zipper foot, stitch as close to
the cording as possible. Be sure to
keep the outside edges of the green
fabric even.
• If necessary, trim the seam allowance
so it is ½” after the stitching is finished.
• Place one end of the covered cord
in the center of one side of the
cushion top.
• Starting about 12” from the corner,
sew the covered cording to the
cushion front. Make sure to stitch
as close to the cording as possible
and keep all outside raw edges even.
Using a small plastic ruler pushed
against the cording will help you stay
close to the cording.
Make a diagonal cut in the seam allowance.
• Continue sewing the cording around
all sides of the cushion top.
• When you come to the last side,
stitch about 8” past the corner and
back stitch. Remove the cushion top
from the machine.
• Adjust the cording so it lies flat.
Stitch the 2 ends of the cording
fabric together using a 45° or 60°
seam. Finger-press seam open. Trim
excess fabric.
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Stitch covered cording to the cushion top.

Sew ends of cording fabric together.
Overlap edges of backing fabric and baste in place.
• Trim the cording so the two ends
butt up against each other.
• It’s a good idea to tape these ends to
prevent fraying.
• Finish sewing the covered cording on
the cushion top.
• Trim the cushion back so it is the
same size as the cushion front,
keeping the opening in the center.
• Trim the corners of the cushion back
on an angle so they match the front.
Trim corners of backing fabric to match cushion front.
Trim ends of cording.
You’re almost finished! Let’s make the
cushion back.
• From backing fabric, cut 2 pieces 17½”
x 25”.
• Fold 1 short edge on each piece to
make a double fold hem and stitch
in place.
• Overlap the 2 pieces by about 4” and
baste the 2 sections together.
Jean Boyd
patternsbyjeanboyd.com
• Place the cushion back and front
right sides together.
• Pin the corners together first. Then
pin as needed to keep all outside raw
edges even.
• Sew the front and back together,
using a ½” seam. Stitch as closely as
possible to the cording.
• Insert the bench pillow form and
adjust it as necessary for a good fit.
Sometimes, the corners of the pillow
form don’t fill the corners fully, so I
just place a little bit of extra stuffing in
those areas.
Enjoy your custom-designed bench
cushion to enjoy!
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issue 13 19

The beauty of
quilting with the
PFAF F creative icon
Claire Haillot
With the winter and holidays already upon us, I've
been keeping myself busy indoors with my fantastic
PFAFF creative icon and I must admit that it has
changed my perspective on quilting.
PFAFF creative icon comes with a carrying case for the embroidery unit and accessories.
Making it that much easier to bring it to the cottage!
I’ve had fun making quick and easy quilt projects
while testing out the creative icon. However I have
fallen short on the quilting part in the last two
projects. I continuously ran out of time. It’s one
thing quilting for the fun of it, but there’s added
pressure when you have deadlines.
So for the holiday season, I decided not to start
any new project but to simply learn how to use
the embroidery side of the creative icon. Cause
let’s face it… so far I have really LOVED working
with it, but haven’t used it to its full potential.
If you’ve been reading all my blogs on QUILTsocial
so far and have been thinking about purchasing a
PFAFF machine, all of the features I have presented
are available on the PFAFF performance icon as
well. What makes the creative icon so special is that
it also comes loaded with the embroidery tray and
hoops as well as many designs and apps to help
you create more.
My April posts featuring a baby quilt finally quilted!
To start off, let’s go back to my April posts featuring
a baby quilt featuring the lovely Sleepy Sloth fabrics
from Northcott. All that was left was to quilt some
hearts in the main blocks. I had my design in mind
but I fell in love with the heart border design that
was already programmed into the creative icon. So
I decided that could be an easy introduction to the
embroidery.
I finally mustered up the courage to open the lovely
PFAFF Embroidery Carrying Case that protects the
embroidery unit with all the hoops. It’s all very well
secured and It made me realize that I could easily
travel with the case should I need to bring it up to
the cottage.
Due to the thickness of the quilt, I had to work my
quilt onto the hoop. I was able to unscrew the clip
of the hoop to ensure that it fits into it no problem.
Embroidering the heart border design on my quilt using the PFAFF creative icon was nice
and easy once I had secured the quilt in the hoop.
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So the trick is to position the first hoop with the
hook underneath your quilt, ensuring that the hook
is located on the bottom right.
Photos by Claire Haillot

Position the quilt and add the
second hoop.
Ensure that you see the writing so
that you know it’s in the correct
position. Then clip to close. I used the
biggest size hoop which allowed me
to embroider up to 13.11” x 13.78”. I
duplicated the design 4 times and
aligned it perfectly to my block. It really
does help to have the biggest screen
possible on the machine. I was able
to play with the precision positioning
on the screen to ensure that the
embroidery would fall exactly where I
wanted on the quilt.
I found it easy to embroider using
the single hole plate and the 6D
embroidery foot. When the straight
stitch plate is attached, the machine
automatically sets to straight stitch
mode, preventing damage to the
needle and plate. The large workspace
really helped out as I was positioning
the hoop in the middle of the quilt and
had at least 10” of the quilt hanging out
on the right hand side.
I also picked up some Sulky rayon 40wt
thread in the midnight blue color to
ensure that the thread wouldn’t break
while embroidering. I love the look it
gives to my quilt. It blends well with
all the rest of my quilting made with
my Blue Heaven blendable 12wt
100% cotton Sulky thread. Another
thing I learned while making this
project was that the bobbins on the
creative icon are 30% larger! I kept
on wondering when I would run out
of thread but I was able to embroider
my three blocks without having to
make a new bobbin!
The first main block took no more
than 20 minutes to figure out and
embroider. The other 2 blocks, on
the left side, gave me a bit of a
workout as I decided to reduce
the size of the hearts and make
several more duplicates to cover
the complete area. And the good
news is that I was able to save both
block quilting designs: I simply had
to touch the heart on the bottom
left of my screen for the creative
icon to save the embroidery design.
I gave each a distinctive name so
that I can simply go into mysewnet
and touch the cloud to retrieve the
design should I want to use it again
on another block.
As this is my first quilt made using an
embroidery system, I have to say that
I’m really thrilled.
Embroidery stitch out on PFAFF creative icon
Finished baby quilt while vacationing at the cottage.
PFAF F creative icon stitch creator
lets you add oomph to a simple binding
I’ll show you how the Stitch Creator helped me create
a nice and quick binding. I only had two days to
spend quilting before the holidays and four quilts to
finish. So I decided to have at least one of the projects
completely bound by machine. I’ll now show you my
little tricks that make this binding look good!
Let’s start by stitching the binding onto the quilt.
Usually, we stitch the binding on the top of the quilt
so that we can hand finish onto the back of the quilt.
But since I’m machine stitching all, I start by stitching
the binding onto the back of the quilt and proceed to
stitch it the exact same way as I would on the top. But
just in case you’re unsure of what the “same way” is,
here’s the description:
Using the PFAFF creative icon to finish this quilt was such a treat!
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1. When stitching the binding onto the
back of the quilt, I ensure that I stitch
at a full ¼” as opposed to a scant. If
you’re too close to the edge, your
binding will not feel full when you
touch it. It’s really important that it
fits snuggly to the edge of your quilt
to prevent a premature wear of the
fabric. I also cut my strips to 2¼” and
fold in half to ensure that it fits nicely.
Stitch out to the corner of your quilt.
5. I then fold the unsewn tail of the
binding, aligning it with the 45
degree seam and edge of the next
side I’ll be stitching. You can finger
press on the fold to ensure that it lays
nice and flat. Fold the unsewn tail of
the binding back onto the edge of
the quilt and start stitching from the
edge. Repeat for all four corners.
Binding stitch is at a full ¼” seam allowance.
2. I leave a 6” tail hanging, it will be
useful to join the ends together.
Using the PFAFF creative icon to bind
my quilts makes this process fast and
easy as I can install my binding using
my regular ¼” foot and the integrated
Dual-Feed technology. I get precision
stitching. And since the creative icon
has increased needle piercing force, it
really goes through all the layers and I
get a nice seam!
As soon as the edge of the quilt aligns with the
red line on the front of the foot, I know it’s time
to stop.
3. For great corners: I stop sewing and
place my needle down when I reach
¼” from the edge of the quilt. Since I’m
using the ¼” foot on the creative icon,
I can easily spot that moment as we
have red lines on our foot that shows
the ¼” before and after the needle. So
as soon as the edge of the quilt aligns
with the red line on the front of the
foot, I know it’s time to stop.
4. I rotate the quilt so that I can sew
out of the quilt, stitching right
until the end of the corner. Having
the enhanced ergonomic design
electronic knee-lift allows me to raise
the presser foot while keeping my
hands on the project, enabling me to
rotate the quilt.
Fold on the seam.
Fold the tail of the binding to be sewn back onto
the edge of the quilt.
Start stitching on edge.
Lay the binding ends on the edge of the quilt and
fold the excess of the tail to be sewn back.
I use the excess binding that I just trimmed
off and align it open perpendicularly over the
folded portion.
6. Stop sewing about 12” from where
you began to stitch the binding.
Bring the tail of the binding yet to be
sewn over the start of the binding
and cut off excess (to be safe, I cut
passed the sewn portion). Lay the
binding ends on the edge of the quilt
and fold the excess of the unsewn tail
back. At this point, I use the excess
binding that I just trimmed off and
align it open perpendicularly over
the folded portion, at the edge of the
other binding (see photo). And I cut
off the excess.
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I sew diagonally
So that’s how I usually sew a binding
onto a quilt.
Usually, I finish by hand on the other side
of the quilt. But for this project, I wanted
to make something different which
is why I stitched the binding onto the
back of the quilt. I actually folded the
binding onto the top of the quilt and
used a decorative stitch on top to finish
the binding. And I decided to create my
own decorative stitch cause the creative
icon lets me do it! Yes, I could have gone
much fancier as it has more than 800
stitches but I didn’t have much time.
So I picked a design and incorporated it
with the straight stitch and saved it on
mysewnet cloud.
Then the machine prompted me to
change the needle plate and foot! I
love it when the machine reminds me
before I go and break another needle!
So I changed the needle plate and foot
and removed the Integrated Dual Feed
and began sewing the binding onto the
quilt top. I simply had to fold my corners
and switch my stitch to straight to be
able to move in and out of the corners
easily. Because I had saved my stitch
on mysewnet cloud it was easy to go
back to my own stitch design once I had
made a corner. It really didn’t take long
for the binding to be finished.
Cut off the excess and press the seams open.
7. I then twist the tail of the binding
to be sewn towards the quilt while
ensuring that the right side of the
fabric faces up. I align the edge of the
beginning binding perpendicularly
(right sides together) and I sew
diagonally (the same way I sew my
strips of binding together). I double
check that the length of the binding
matches the length of the quilt and I
cut off the excess, pressing the seams
open. Once done, I stitch the binding
onto the edge of the quilt.
Then the machine prompted me to change the
needle plate and foot
I simply had to fold my corners and switch my
stitch to straight to be able to move in and out of
the corners easily.
My quilt was quilted and bound in a
day. That’s how quick and easy it is to
bind a quilt using the stitch creator.
This left me with another day of testing
out the wonderful embroideries of the
creative icon.
Stitch creator on the PFAFF creative icon
Binding of quilt with PFAFF creative icon
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Why I’m so excited about the PFAF F ImageStitch app
The PFAFF creative icon is your bestie when it’s time to quilt a project!
How the ImageStitch app works
Once in the app with photo downloaded, you get to choose
the type of embroidery you want. It can be scattered large or
small or a simple line bold or thin. You can also use the eraser
icon to remove the lines you do not wish to have. Once you’re
happy with the look, you can save it onto your sewnet cloud.
It will automatically download to your creative icon. I wanted
to have the quilted ‘look’ as opposed an embroidered one, so I
opted for LineArt bold and saved the design.
I turned on the creative icon to find my downloaded
embroidery design in mySewnet file! I simply touched the
name and it opened the design on the creative icon screen. I
was able to resize my design and position in the hoop where
I wanted it. I then realized I needed the embroidery facing the
other way as I had placed the quilt up-side down. Instead of
having to re-hoop the quilt, I simply clicked the ‘mirror’ image
and I was ready to start the embroidery.
In my June 2018 post, I showed you how to perfect the flying
geese block using the PFAFF creative icon while making a
modern throw using the wonderful Canvas collection from
Northcott.
In the last post of that week, I started quilting and showed you
how to use the Shape Creator. But I have to say that I found an
easier way to quilt this project! And I have the ImageStitch app
to thank for this: it’s the best app ever for quilters!
ImageStitch is a free app available for your smartphone or tablet
that lets you take a picture and transfer it into stitches for you to
embroider. You can save the design on your mySewnet cloud
and it will be synchronized to your mySewnet on your creative
icon. So I designed my flying geese outline on my personal
computer and printed it out. I then took a photo of it and went
onto the ImageStitch app and incorporated it in the app.
Introducing the best app ever: ImageStitch
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ImageStitch on your Smartphone
Quilting Status on Sewnet app on your
Smartphone
My very own quilting design for flying geese
Once again, I preferred using Sulky rayon solid 40wt thread
in light silver to ensure that the thread wouldn’t break while
embroidering. I love how it looks on my quilt! I used a light
silver so that it would pop up in the red sections of the quilt. It
blended well with all the rest of my quilting made with 100%
cotton 40wt Sulky thread.
What was also great about this is that I could start the
embroidery onto my quilt and follow the progress on my cell
phone thanks to the SewNotice app. I was able to go and start
packing for the cottage and my cell phone would prompt me to
go back when the embroidery was finished. I just had to go back
to set the next position on the quilt and press start before getting
back to packing.
I truly enjoyed having the freedom to create my own quilt design
and being able to have the creative icon stitch it in place. This
has just opened up so many other new possibilities! I have so
many UFOs that are in the quilting stage waiting for the perfect
quilt design! Now I can sketch it and embroider it on the PFAFF
creative icon thanks to the ImageStitch app. It really is the best
app ever for quilters! Keep reading I'll show you another way to
quilt triangles on your projects using the PFAFF creative icon.
I truly enjoyed having the freedom to create my
own quilt design
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The best kept secret to
beautiful quilting designs
The PFAFF creative icon is my favorite quilting partner!
Use Freezer Paper to create your design shapes
Here’s another idea to help you
change your perspective on
quilting! I'm using the embroidery
arm of the PFAFF creative icon.
Here's my best kept secret to
beautiful quilting designs without
using the hoop.
Remember my Flying Geese quilt I
made using the Canvas collection
from Northcott? I showed you
how I got to quilt a row of flying
geese on the project. But I also
want to quilt a single flying
geese using the Sulky Cotton
Blendables12wt in Poppy color. I
decided to go old school for this
part of the project and thought
it would be a great way to show
you what I consider to be my best
kept secret.
I pulled out my freezer paper and
copied the shape of my flying
geese several times and cut them
out. I then positioned them onto
my quilt and ensured that I liked
the overall layout. Once I was sure
of their location, I used an iron
to set them onto my quilt. Once
they were in place I was able to
go onto the creative icon and
quilt around the freezer paper
to achieve the quilting design I
wanted.
For this part I went back to the
single needle plate, ¼” foot and
Integrated dual-feed system. I
love the finished look and feel
with the sulky 12wt variegated
threads. And the freezer paper
is easy to remove once done: it
simply peels off.
If you have more complex
designs you’d like to quilt onto
your project, simply use Glad
Press & Seal instead of Freezer
paper. You can tear it off once
done and for any little piece stuck
underneath your stitch, simply
use your iron. It won’t melt onto
your project, it will just dry up and
you can dust it off. It’s that simple.
However, the PFAFF ImageStitch
is my go-to app now instead.
I hope you like my best kept
secret to beautiful quilting
designs. I was able to finish my
second quilt in half a day using
the great features of the PFAFF
creative icon.
Positioning your quilting designs on your quilt
Quilting around the edge of your design
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27

The creative icon is really user-friendly
How the
PFAF F creative icon
helped
me finish a UFO quilt
Auditioning Sulky Rayon threads on the project
Have you tried the PFAFF creative icon?
You need to do a test run at your nearest
dealer! It's amazing.
I had set two days aside before the
holidays to be able to quilt them. What
I didn’t expect was the fact that the
creative icon is really user-friendly and
I finished the quilts in less than two
days… which meant that I had time on
my hand to finish a UFO!
I have to say that I never thought this
day would come! I had made a rainbow
panel almost two years ago and had
no idea how to finish the project so I
set it aside in my UFOs. But I noticed
the cute butterfly embroidery outline
that’s included in the creative icon and
thought it will be perfect for that panel.
I pulled out all the beautiful Sulky Rayon
40 wt I had and auditioned them on
the project. I decided on the Variable
red to pink for this one. Usually, I go for a
neutral thread colors so that the quilting
doesn’t show too much, but I knew the
embroidery would come out perfect so I
didn’t hesitate to go bold.
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It was easy to choose the design and
to position onto the project. Thanks to
the large screen on the creative icon
I was able to resize the pattern, rotate
and duplicate to create the layout of
my choice. I placed the project onto
the hoop and began the embroidery. It
was just wonderful to see the butterflies
come to life on my project!
Once the first overall layout was finished,
I noticed that I had big areas without
any quilting. It didn’t feel right to my
artistic eye. So I decided to cheat with
the creative icon. I would reposition
the design layout and stitch only one
butterfly in the location I wanted. You’re
able to tell the creative icon at what
stitch you want it to start. You can either
press a location on the screen, or input
the stitch number, the creative icon
will go to that location and begin
embroidering. Which is what I did!
And I would press stop when the
butterfly embroidery section was
completed to my satisfaction.
And that’s how the PFAFF creative
icon helped me finish another UFO
during my two-day quiltcation.
I still can’t believe I got so much
done in just two days. I went to the
cottage with all the quilts to bind
and truly enjoyed finishing them
by hand. I felt an immense sense
of accomplishment and came back
home recharged a ready to go
back to work during the day, and
to my studio every time I have a
few minutes I can call my own.
Embroidery stitch out screen enable me to input
the stitch number, the creative icon will go to
that location and begin embroidering.
I felt an immense sense of accomplishment when the binding was finished.
Thanks to the large screen, it was easy to choose
the design and to position onto the project.
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithclaire.com/wp
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Exploring utility stitches on the
Brother
Dreamweaver
XE Christine Baker
The first set of stitches to show up on
the screen are the utility stitches. I can
use the slider on the left side of the
screen to scroll through all of the ones
that are available.
The Dreamweaver XE
This summer, on QUILTsocial, I showed
you how to turn a charm square pack into
nine patch blocks and snowball blocks. I’m
using the Dreamweaver XE from Brother
to finish these blocks into a modern
baby quilt.
Now we need to quilt it! I’m exploring
some of the different stitches that are
available on the Dreamweaver XE to
decide how the baby quilt will be
quilted. The first step is to select “Sewing”
from the home screen.
Scrolling through the stitches
Stitch 1-35 looks interesting! I’ll select
it first.
The quilt top
I was able to make a total of 42 blocks
from my charm pack – 21 nine-patch
and 21 snowball. I arranged them on my
design wall, alternating the two blocks
and sewed them together.
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The home screen
Stitch 1-35
Photos by Christine Baker

The screen on the Dreamweaver XE now
shows what the stitch will look like and
indicates at the top of the screen that we
need to attach the “J” presser foot before
stitching out our sample.
This stitch was 60 seconds. Not too bad!
Now I’ll press the utility stitches – section
2 key to access the second grouping of
utility stitches.
Adjusting stitch length and width
It took 35 seconds to stitch a 10“ sample
of stitch 2-16, and only 26 seconds to
stitch a sample of 2-12. I wonder how
fast the Dreamweaver XE can sew the
serpentine stitch 2-17.
Utility stitches – section 2
Attach foot “J”
I showed you on QUILTsocial how to
easily change the presser foot on the
Dreamweaver XE. Now that we’ve
changed the foot we can try out
this stitch on one of the small quilt
sandwiches that I made using batting
and 2 layers of fabric. Here’s what Stitch
1-35 “Quilting Stippling” looks like in
fabric and thread.
I’m selecting stitch 2-16 and trying
stitching it out on my quilt sandwich.
Stitch 1-35 “Quilting Stippling”
Since I’ll be using one (or two) of these
stitches to quilt my baby quilt, I’m not
only testing out how they look when
stitched but also how long it takes to
stitch them! I don’t want to be spending
hours and hours quilting this small quilt,
so I set my iPad up beside the sewing
machine and using the timer to see how
long it takes to stitch out a 10“ sample.
Stitch 2-16
Depending on the stitch selected, you
may or may not be able to change
the width and/or length of the stitch.
If numbers show up on the screen as
shown, then you can use the “+” or :-”
buttons to adjust. If no numbers show in
this area, then the stitch can’t be adjusted.
The serpentine stitch “2-17”
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Here are the stitch-outs, and time taken
to stitch, for the four different utility
stitches. As you can see we’re getting
faster and faster and I quite like the way
the serpentine stitch looks! I think that
maybe one that I’ll use for quilting!
Now that I’ve picked a fairly simple utility
stitch to use on the baby quilt, I’ll check
out some of the more complex stitches
available on the Dreamweaver XE and
pick a second one to use as well.
Stitch-outs
Infinite
possibilities
for quilting
with decorative
stitches
I picked one of these stitches to use for
quilting my baby quilt, but I’d like to
use a more complex design as well. I’m
checking out the character decorative
stitches available on the machine.
After selecting “Sewing” on the main
screen, I press the Character Decorative
Stitch key on the LCD screen of the
Dreamweaver XE to access the many
decorative stitches available.
Dreamweaver XE
There are 7 different sections of
Character Decorative Stitches. I’m
selecting the Section 6 key to access the
first group of decorative stitches.
Section “6”
The Character Decorative Stitch key
As on the utility stitches screen, you can
scroll through the decorative stitches using
the slider on the right side of the screen.
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UILTsocial

Decorative stitch 6-065 looks amazing! I’ll
try stitching out that one.
Now I’ll try out Decorative stitch 6-113.
Scrolling through the stitches
As I was scrolling through the options,
I selected a few different stitches and
realized that instead of just replacing
the previous selection, the machine
was adding one repeat of each design
to the one before it. The possibilities
for combining stitch patterns on the
Dreamweaver XE are endless! I’ll explore
THAT another time!
Stitch 6-065
Here it is on my sample. It’s AWESOME but
it also took 60 seconds to stitch out only
two repeats which are just over 2” long.
That would take way too much time for
this quilt, but I’m definitely keeping it in
mind for a future project!
Stitch 6-113
That one’s amazing as well but took 80
seconds to stitch about 3”. Stitch 6-086,
shown below, took 50 seconds to stitch
the same length.
Combining stitches
To delete stitches I don’t want to use,
I just press the delete button at the
bottom of the screen.
Stitch-outs
Make sure to pay attention to the display
on the Dreamweaver XE when selecting
stitches. It shows you what size the final
stitching will be by indicating the % of
the actual size that is displayed. The last
group of stitches in section 6 are much
bigger than the other stitches that I used
and the machine is only displaying them
at 50% of actual size.
Deleting stitches
Stitch out of 6-065
Display size
Q
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UILTsocial
issue 13 33

Stitch-outs for many decorative stitches
Here are some of the stitch-outs I did using stitches 6-166
through 6-178. As you can see they are much bigger than the
previous samples. They would be great for quilting an inner
border on a quilt as most of them are about 1” wide. But, they
do take a lot of time
to sew. The fastest
one – stitch 6-171
– took 75 seconds
to stitch a 6” long
sample.
So, I found a second
stitch that I’ll use on
the quilt – I’ll keep
it a secret and show
you. Now I need to
layer my quilt!
Layering the quilt
Here it is layered
with batting and backing. I used 505 Spray to keep the layers
together and a few safety pins around the outside edge for
added stability.
Machine quilting with a
serpentine stitch
When I’m machine quilting a small project
on my home machine I always try to
use my walking foot when possible. The
Dreamweaver XE has an amazing dual
feed foot that is even better than a regular
old walking foot for machine quilting! The
dual feed foot is plugged into the back
of the machine after securing it to the
presser foot holder.
Once the dual feed foot is plugged in,
you’ll notice that some of the utility and
decorative stitches are grayed out on the
display screen. This feature shows which
stitches can and can’t be used with the
dual feed foot.
You can see in the middle picture below
that since the serpentine stitch isn't
grayed out, it’s available to use with the
dual feed foot! That’s awesome, because
I’d like to use that foot as much as I can
for the machine quilting. Using a walking
foot or dual feed foot prevents the three
layers of the quilt from shifting while
you're quilting!
Before using the serpentine stitch, I’ll
quilt in-the-ditch between the blocks
using the dual feed foot.
The dual feed foot
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UILTsocial
Greyed out stitches
Quilting in the ditch

I've stitched all the vertical and horizontal
seams between the blocks. Here’s a close
up of the in-the-ditch quilting using the
Dreamweaver XE from Brother. I don’t usually
do a lot of in-the-ditch quilting because I
find it hard to keep the stitching right along
the seam, but this machine makes it easy!!
Now that my three layers are secured
together with the in-the-ditch quilting, I’ll
use the dual feed foot to quilt diagonally
through all of the nine-patch blocks. Here’s a
little video showing the steps I followed.
Close up of in-the-ditch quilting
Decorative stitches
plus laser pointer
= beautiful machine quilting
Greyed out stitches
I still have the dual feed foot attached to
the machine and the grayed out stitches
on the screen show that all of the
stitches in this section can’t be used with
this presser foot. Since I want to use the
cute little kite stitch – 6-078 – I will have
to attach a different presser foot.
Foot “N”
Once I unplug the dual feed foot, the
display screen on the Dreamweaver XE
shows that the correct presser foot for
the selected stitch is foot “N”.
Changing the foot
So, I remove the dual feed foot and
attach foot “N” to the machine.
Q
.com|
UILTsocial
issue 13 35

Since I’ve already done a lot of machine quilting on the quilt
using the dual feed foot, I don’t need to worry too much about
the layers shifting as I quilt using the “N” foot.
I select the kite stitch, activate the laser pointer and get ready to
stitch.
Here’s a video that I made showing the steps to follow.
Close-up of the kite stitch
The machine quilting is finished.
Here’s a close-up of the kite stitch used to machine quilt across
the diagonal of each of the snowball blocks. I think it looks SO
cute!!
Here it is – the machine quilting is finished. The Dreamweaver
XE made this so easy to quilt!
10 simple steps for binding with perfect corners
I’m trimming the
quilt and I’ll show
you 10 simple steps
for binding with
perfect corners.
The first thing I do is
trim the edges of the
baby quilt using a
rotary cutter and ruler.
It’s always a good
idea to label quilts,
but I have to admit,
it’s my least favorite
part of quilting!! This
is the solution I’ve
come up with.
Trimming
I ordered
embroidered ribbon
labels from It’s Mine
Labels and I pin one of
them to the back of
the quilt in one of the
corners. I make sure
that the raw ends of
the ribbon almost
reach the raw edge
of the quilt. Once the
Add ribbon label
binding is sewn on,
the label is secured and there’s no hand stitching required!
Now that I have this Dreamweaver XE embroidery machine, one
of these days I’ll try embroidering my own ribbon labels!
I’ve made my binding using a grey Colorworks Solid from
Northcott following the same technique I’ve shown in previous
QUILTsocial posts.
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UILTsocial

Now I’ll select the “quilting stitches” key
on the LCD screen.
Step 2
Flip the binding to the right of the corner,
so that the raw edge of the binding
makes a continuous line with the raw
edge of the second side of the quilt.
Step 5
Once the binding is sewn to all four sides
of the quilt, go to one corner and fold
one side of the binding over to the front
of the quilt.
Select “quilting stitches”
The screen shows that I need to attach
the “J” presser foot.
Flip to the right
Step 3
Fold the binding over so that the fold is
lined up with the first side of the quilt
and the raw edge of the binding is laying
along the raw edge of the second side of
the quilt.
Fold one side over
Step 6
Fold the second side of the binding to
the front and pin both sides in place,
making sure that the edges meet in
the corner.
Install the “J” foot
Step 1
Start by sewing the binding to the raw
edge of the first side of the quilt and
stop ¼” from the end. Back-stitch to sew
reinforcement stitches before cutting
the thread.
Fold to the left
Step 4
Starting right at the folded end of the
binding, back-stitch at the edge of the
quilt and then sew along the raw edge
of the binding using a ¼” seam until you
get to the second corner of the quilt.
Repeat Steps 1-4.
Fold the second side
¼” from the end
Stitch from the outer corner
Q
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UILTsocial
issue 13 37

Step 7
Select a decorative stitch on the
Dreamweaver XE. If necessary, adjust the
width and length of the stitch. I’m using
Utility stitch 3-16 which looks a lot like a
hand stitched cross-stitch.
Step 10
Use the needle down feature on the
Dreamweaver XE to drop the needle
where the two corners of the binding
meet and then pivot to stitch the
next side.
Press
Step 9
Keep sewing along the binding,
allowing the decorative stitch to stitch
the edge of the binding down. When
you get to the corner, use an awl to
hold down the corner of the folded
binding to make sure that it doesn’t
move before it gets stitched.
Pivot at the corner
Here's my binding, sewn down with
stitch 3-16 on the Dreamweaver XE.
And here’s my finished baby quilt,
pieced and machine quilted with the
Dreamweaver XE from Brother.
Adjust width
Step 8
Working from the front of the quilt,
line up the edge of the binding
under the presser foot, then press
the “Reinforcement Stitch” button to
start sewing.
Use an awl
The finished binding
I really love how my baby quilt turned
out and I’m really happy that I was
finally able to use one of the charm
packs that my friend Nellie brought me
when she returned from Quiltweek in
Lancaster last year!
The Brother Dreamweaver XE made
piecing and quilting this quilt a
delight! I can’t wait to discover more of
its great features while working on my
next project!
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
38 | issue 13

Your Favorite
Thread Brand
With over 350 colors, Coats Dual Duty XP ® has
exceptional performance and durability for
hand and machine sewing on all fabrics.
Coats & Clark, Greer, SC 29650
makeitcoats.com
17-011 © 2017 Coats & Clark. All rights reserved. Coats & Clark is a registered trademark.
39

THE Dream Machine 2
THE Dream Machine 2
Rayon threads
Sulky Ultra Solvy stabilizer
Q
40 .com| issue 13
UILTsocial
8 essential tips
for embroidering free
standing lace
I’m using the embroidery features on
THE Dream Machine 2 from Brother to
share these awesome tips on how to
make bookmarks using free standing
lace (FSL).
I have to be honest with you, up until last
month I’d never even heard of FSL, but
one day I stumbled upon a FSL design
while researching embroidery designs
online and I was intrigued.
I downloaded these super cute
FSL bookmark designs and tried to
embroider one, but it went HORRIBLY
wrong!! My stabilizer ripped, my threads
broke, and I figured that I might need
some professional help!
So I emailed Brother educator Lynn
Swanson and asked if she had any tips
for doing free standing lace embroidery.
She obviously knows what she’s talking
about because my next attempt was
very successful, so I asked if I could share
her great tips with you here!
TIP 1
Choose a design that says it is either
for “free standing lace” or “FSL”. When
you’re looking online, the design will
say that it’s appropriate for FSL. Regular
embroidery designs are made so that
the fabric keeps the design together. No
fabric and the threads will just unravel.
FSL designs are stitched in a way that the
thread keeps the design together.
TIP 2 use the correct thread
Make sure to use the thread type the
design calls for – if it calls for cotton
thread make sure to use cotton and
not rayon. Lynn says that she has used
30 weight and also up to 50 weight
depending on what the pattern calls for
– but don’t substitute rayon if the pattern
suggests cotton. She’s also used rayon
thread and some metallic thread if the
pattern calls for it.
75/11 sharp needles
Hoop very tightly
The base stitching

TIP 3 stabilizer
Lynn says that she’d had the best
results usings heavy duty watersoluble
stabilizer. She likes Sulky
Ultra Solvy but has also used
Brother water soluble stabilizer.
TIP 4 needles
Lynn likes to use a 75/11 sharp
or ultra sharp needle. You want
to have a narrow (thin) needle
because when the needle
perforates the stabilizer so you
want as small a hole as possible.
TIP 5 hooping
Make sure you hoop the
stabilizer tightly, tighter than if
you were stabilizing fabric.
The base stitching for the free
standing lace embroidery
is what keeps it all together
when the stabilizer is removed.
As you can see THE Dream
Machine 2, first stitches the
whole background (green) in a
criss-cross pattern and then the
design is stitched on top.
With the addition of more
thread colors, the design is
coming to life!
Below is the original bookmark,
and a second one that was
increased in size before stitching.
TIP 6 trimming
Trim away the excess stabilizer
around the bookmarks as close
a possible without clipping any
of the threads.
TIP 7 soak in warm water
Fill a bowl with warm water
and lay the design in it. It
sure doesn’t take long for the
stabilizer to dissolve away!
TIP 8 drying
Once the stabilizer is dissolved
remove the design and lay it on a
thick towel to dry.
Now that my bookmarks are dry,
they can be used to keep my
spot in my next great read! And
wouldn’t these be cute presents?
There are FSL designs available
for ornaments and houses,
doilies and more! Just type
in “FSL” on your favorite
embroidery design website to
see what’s available.
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
Adding more layers of stitching
The free standing lace bookmarks
Trim away excess stabilizer
Soaking in the hot water
Drying on a towel
The finished bookmark
41

don't miss these
projects & tutorials online!
Q
UILTsocial
.com
How to make an
embroidered mug rug
using mySewnet news-feed
READ NOW
READ NOW
READ NOW
Making a reversible table
runner using Banyan Batiks
Rock City
42
and there's so much more!
Mini quilt with buttons
becomes very adorable

43

905-715-7725
www.thatsewingplace.ca
SPECIALIZING IN SEWING MACHINE
SALES/SERVICE/CLASSES
AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR
Kelly’s Creative Sewing
Machines and More...
902-435-7380
www.kellyscreativesewing.ca
804 Main Street
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia B2W 3V1
kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com
Specialize in Sewing, Embroidery machines,
Sergers and Long arm Quilting Systems
www.sewwithvision.net
902-479-2227
480 Parkland Dr,
Halifax, NS B3S 1P9, Canada
Your Authorized Dealer for:
Perfection starts here.
Ottawa Valley Authorized Dealer
Sewing, Knitting & Having a Good Time
Arnprior Shopping Centre
375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6
613-623-0500
www.sewinspired.ca
info@sewinspired.ca
Q
44 .com| issue 13
UILTsocial

QUILTsocial bloggers
in this issue
Claire Haillot
quiltingwithwclaire.com
Married with three young boys,
Claire Haillot shares her passion
for quilting among her neighbors
in the United States and
Canada as well as her cousins in
France. Claire has been active
in the quilting industry since
2004. In 2006, she started her
own line of patterns and later
began publishing patterns and
articles in Canadian, European
and American magazines. She
collaborated with PlumEasy
patterns to launch the Dancing
Diamonds. Claire has also won
a few awards for her work. Most
recently her quilt Remembering
Sotchi won Best of Show in
special exhibit A Celebration of
Color at the International Quilt
Festival in Chicago April 2018.
Christine Baker
FairfieldRoadDesigns.com
Christine has been designing and
publishing quilt patterns for the
last 10 years under the business
name Fairfield Road Designs.
Her patterns range from fusible
applique and piecing to felted wool
applique and punchneedle. You can
see all her patterns on her website.
Sarah Vanderburgh
sewjoycreations.com
Sarah loves to play with color and
quilts are her playground! A selftaught
quilter, She's been designing
her own quilts for almost 20 years.
She's inspired by happy fabrics,
selvages, traditional blocks and
nature. She's also a wife, mother,
and elementary school teacher, and
enjoy drinking coffee on my front
porch in northern Ontario.
Jean Boyd
patternsbyjeanboyd.com
Jean has been designing and
publishing patterns since 1997. Her
work has been published in several
magazines across North America.
Jean holds a Fiber Arts Certificate in
quilting and has taught extensively
throughout Canada, including six
national Quilt Canada conferences.
She was named "Canadian Teacher
of the Year" in 2003 by the Canadian
Quilters Association and has won
numerous awards for her quilts.
45

BUSINESS DIRECTORY To list your business in this space please call 1.866.969.2678.
Brenda Franklin Designs
7570 Mapleton SR 18 RR 1, Alma, ON N0B 1A0
519.638.9958 bfdesigns.on.ca
help@bfdesigns.on.ca
More than 500 charts available for counted
needlework, latch hook rugs, beadwork, beaded
knits and knitting patterns. Mail/fax order or ask
for our products at your local shop. Contact us for
custom designs or needle felted sculpture.
Brampton Sew & Serge
289 Rutherford Rd S, Unit 7, Brampton, ON L6W 3R9
905.874.1564 sewnserge.com
monique@bramptonsewnserge.com
Welcome to Your One Stop Sewing Centre! We are
authorized dealers of Baby Lock, Husqvarna Viking,
and Singer sewing machines and sergers. We also
offer a full schedule of sewing classes for everyone.
Bytowne Threads - Ottawa, ON
1.888.831.4095 bytownethreads.com
mlj@bytownethreads.com
Featuring Aurifil thread from Italy. Long staple
Egyptian cotton threads - 270 colours in 12, 28, 40
and 50 wt; 88 colours in 80 wt. Polyester Aurilux -
240 high sheen colours. Wool threads - 192 colours.
Many kits available. Check our website!
Canadian National Fabric - Brampton, ON
https://canadiannationalfabric.com/
info@canadiannationalfabric.com
We are an online fabric shoppe offering a wide
variety of fabrics, patterns, books and notions for all
your sewing needs. Flat rate Canada wide shipping
of $5. Shop in person available by appointment!
Country Concessions
1 Dufferin St, Cookstown, ON L0L 1L0
705.458.4546 or toll-free 1.888.834.4407
countryconcessions.com
info@countryconcessions.com
Visit our lovely and unique quilt shop in the quaint
village of Cookstown. We have over 7000 bolts of
cotton fabrics plus a wide selection of patterns, books
& notions. You will be so glad you came for a visit.
Gitta's
271 Lakeshore Rd E, Mississauga, ON L5G 1G8
905.274.7198 gittas.com
questions@gittas.com
Gitta's, named after owner Gitta Al-Basi, nestled in
the east village of Port Credit, is the place where
stitchers meet with their stitching friends, shop for
stitching supplies and see the new stitching designs
from Europe and the United States.
Hardanger House, designs by Betty Stokoe
PO Box 1223, Stettler, AB T0C 2L0
403.742.2749 bettystokoe@gmail.com
tnplisting.com/hardanger-house.html
Hardanger embroidery charts and kits. Designs
feature contemporary adaptations of this traditional
cutwork embroidery from Norway. Shop online
at etsy.com/shop/HardangerHouse. Some digital
downloads available.
Haus of Stitches
626 Main Street, Humboldt, SK S0K 2A0
306.682.0772 or toll-free 1.800.344.6024
hausofstitches.ca
Our one of a kind store offers everything you need
for sewing, quilting, knitting, rug hooking and
needlework. Authorized dealers for Janome and Elna.
Heartfelt Fibre Arts
42 Industrial St, Toronto, ON M4G 1Y9
647.920.3616 heartfeltfibrearts.com
info@hearftfeltfibrearts.com
Canadian Fibre Arts supply store specializing in
high-quality, unique fibre and tools for all of your
knitting, felting, rug hooking and stitching needs.
Impressions Embroidery & Engraving
#8-449 Mayor Magrath Dr S, Lethbridge, AB T1J 3L8
403.942.3934 impressionslethbridge.ca
impressions22@shaw.ca
Our shop does embroidery and laser engraving.
Laser engraving is a beautiful process for fabric,
as nothing cuts cleaner and more precisely than a
laser. We now carry a nice array of fabric as well to
compliment the abilities of the laser.
Kelly's Creative Sewing
804 Main St, Dartmouth, NS B2W 3V1
902.435.7380 kellyscreativesewing.ca
kellyscreativesewing@gmail.com
We offer sales and on-site service of high-end
domestic embroidery, sewing machines and sergers,
as well as a variety of educational programs.
Needles & Knits
15040 Yonge St, Aurora, ON L4G 1M4
905.713.2066 needlesandknits.com
Fabulous selection of yarns. Extremely
knowledgable and expert help. Cozy and friendly
atmosphere. Classes. Guild night every first Tuesday
of the month. Tea with Tove, the owner, every
Thursday from 6-8pm.
Needleworker's Delight / Silkweaver Fabrics
Plaza K 181 Route 1 South, Metuchen, NJ 08840
732-388-4545 needleworkersdelight.com
info@needleworkersdelight.com
Standard & specialty Zweigart Fabrics & canvas,
hand-dyed fabrics, floss, fibers, towels, tableware,
leaflets/designs, painted canvases, notions, tools,
baby items, home decor, and so much more!
Pine Ridge Knit & Sew
17477 Hwy 2 PO Box 68, Trenton, ON K8V 5R1
613.392.1422 pineridgeknitsew.com
yvette@pineridgeknitsew.com
We have knitting machines by Artisan and Silver
Reed, embroidery machines by Husqvarna/Viking
& White. Sewing notions and supplies, books and
software. Hands-on lessons and classes. Wide variety
of yarns, threads, dress and pant zippers.
Serenity Knits
525 Brooker Ridge #102, Newmarket, ON L3X 2M2
905.710.3283 serenityknits.ca
info@serenityknits.ca
We offer a wide selection of high quality yarns as well
as needles, hooks, patterns and notions. We also offer
a large variety of classes from beginner to the more
advanced.
Sew Fancy Inc.
Guelph, ON
519.824.4127 sewfancy.com
sales@sewfancy.com
Your Premier Canadian Source for Specialty Sewing
Supplies including Smocking, Heirloom Sewing,
Goldwork, Silk Ribbon Embroidery, Needle Tatting,
Swarovski Crystals, Sashiko, Quilting and more. Visit
the website for the latest in sewing supplies.
Sew Inspired
375 Daniel St S, Arnprior, ON K7S 3K6
613.623.0500 sewinspired.ca
info@sewinspired.ca
Your Ottawa Valley PFAFF® Authorized Dealer. We
have a large supply of quilting & sewing supplies,
knitting supplies, as well as in stock PFAFF® sewing
machines. We also have a listing of sewing and
quilting classes.
Sew With Vision
480 Parkland Dr, Halifax, NS B3S 1P9
902.479.2227 sewwithvision.net
Authorized PFAFF, HUSQVARNA VIKING, and SINGER
dealer and service provider offering an extensive line
of sewing, embroidery and serger machines, as well
as long-arm quilting systems.
That Sewing Place
16610 Bayview Ave #10, Newmarket, ON L3X 1X3
905.715.7725 thatsewingplace.ca
jaret&liana@thatsewingplace.ca
Introducing That Sewing Place as your sewing
source and Authorized Dealers for Bernina and
Brother machines. Jaret & Liana focus on placing
your sewing needs first, providing outstanding
support, service, and training.
The Quilt Store / Evelyn's Sewing Centre
17817 Leslie St, Unit 40, Newmarket, ON L3Y 8C6
905.853.7001 or toll-free 1.888.853.7001
The Quilt Store West
695 Plains Rd E, Unit 6, Burlington, ON L7T 2E8
905.631.0894 or toll-free 1.877.367.7070
thequiltstore.ca
Now with 2 locations to serve you, we are your Quilt
Store Destination! The staff here at The Quilt Store
is always on hand to provide Quilt Wisdom, Quilt
Inspiration and most of all we pride ourselves as the
place to make... All Your Quilt Dreams Come True!
The Stitcher's Muse
99 Commercial Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 5G3
250.591.6873 thestitchersmuse.com
info@thestitchersmuse.com
A divine little shop with supplies for all your hand
stitching needs! Friendly, knowledgeable, helpful
staff. Cross stitch, canvaswork, needlepoint,
embroidery, counted thread, lace making and
more. Books, patterns, fabric, threads, tools.
The Yarn Guy
15 Gower St, Toronto, ON M4B 1E3
416.752.1828 or toll-free 1.800.836.6536
theyarnguy.com info@sewknit.ca
See us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter!
Knitting machines, sewing machines, repairs, parts
for Passap, Studio, Singer, Silver Reed, Superba,
White. Sewing notions and supplies, books, ball
yarns, coned yarns, TAMM yarns, Paton's yarns,
Bernat yarns, Phentex yarns, Bernat kits & crafts.
Ultimate Sewing Centre
191 Bloor St East, Oshawa, ON L1H 3M3
905.436.9193 ultimatesewing.com
ultimatesewing@bellnet.ca
For all your sewing needs be sure to call Durham’s
largest one stop shop: Janome and Elna Sewing
Machines, Sergers, & Embroidery machines,
over 3000 bolts of first quality cottons, Floriani
Embroidery supplies, the latest notions, books, &
patterns, year round classes, and so much more!
Upper Canada Quiltworks
PO Box 64, Brockville, ON K6V 5T7
613.345.3956 Fax: 613.342.3327
uppercanadaquiltworks.com
Visit us online for a wide selection quilt patterns
and books. Techniques include felted wool, fusible
appliqué, punchneedle, rag quilting and printing
photos on fabric.
Q
46 .com| issue 13
UILTsocial

The new star of
the quilting world
Featuring brilliant StitchVision technology that lets you take your quilts to the next level.
192 Disney embroidery
designs built right in
Projects guidelines and
grids for sewing precise lines,
angles, corners and more
Extra large 10 5/8” x 16”
hoop with comfortable
spring lever release
65 square inch workspace
and a 13.1” needle-to-arm
distance
Visit your Brother authorized dealer, or go to brother.ca to discover more.
INSPIRING CREATIVITY FOR GENERATIONS
Photos are for illustration purposes only. Brother and its logo are trademarks of Brother Industries, Ltd., Japan. All specifications are subject to change without notice. All registered trademarks referenced herein are the property of their respective companies.
©2018 Brother International Corporation (Canada) Ltd. 1, rue Hôtel de Ville, Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Québec, H9B 3H6. 12/2018 - 2018_398
47

Get more quilting fun in
A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD
QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS
A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD
A Needle Pulling Thread
QUILT SEW KNIT CROCHET CROSS STITCH EMBROIDER HOOK RUGS
2018 Issue 47
84
The Beauty of
Texture
Surface Honeycomb Stitch
60
16
30
Exploring
painting
&
needlework
Thoughtful Soles
Wiggle Room socks
Volume 13 Issue 2
Artist Reviews
with
Lise Belanger
Claire Haillot
Make
H
& Be
appy!
Visit www.ANPTmag.com to order!
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