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NMRA RH October 2018

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The Cornhill & Atherton RR<br />

Rob Clark<br />

Part 4<br />

Sometimes I make no improvements at all, as in the case of this Proto 2000 0-8-0 which is<br />

superbly detailed, painting and careful weathering are all that is required. Photos by Rob Clark<br />

Every model railroad needs<br />

motive power and the C&A<br />

is no exception. Rob Clark’s<br />

approach to satisfying this<br />

need is a simple approach to sourcing<br />

locomotives for his 1930s style<br />

railroad [ed].<br />

The C&A has a large roster of locomotives,<br />

but this is purely for my<br />

interest. Generally only five to six<br />

would be on the layout at any one<br />

time. Three locomotives are sound<br />

equipped and my aim is to move<br />

to 100% when funds permit. A train<br />

without sound is like food without<br />

flavour!<br />

can still be had, but there is a big risk<br />

of paying more than the retail price –<br />

do your research.<br />

I follow a fairly standard approach<br />

when preparing a locomotive for<br />

service. I make a decision about<br />

the running and paint condition, any<br />

extra detail I want to add and also<br />

the type of decoder and additional<br />

features (like firebox glow) to be<br />

fitted. In some cases the locomotive<br />

The whole fleet has been sourced on<br />

eBay, mostly proprietary plastic and<br />

many from years ago when prices<br />

were much more sensible. Bargains<br />

A Mantua 2-6-6-2 logger showing the grey/black colour I use. The stock<br />

model is a little bare so I followed an old Jeff Johnstone article and added<br />

a lot of brass accessories, piping and handrails.<br />

is ready to go and just needs painting<br />

and in others I strip it right down to<br />

components.<br />

This Bachmann 0-6-0 has only been slightly modified – replacement crew and<br />

an air pump with a bit of piping. Again, weathering does the hard work<br />

10 ROUNDHOUSE - <strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

In all cases the most important<br />

aspects are painting and weathering<br />

and this alone can transform the<br />

look of any model locomotive. I use<br />

a Badger 200 airbrush and finish all<br />

my locomotives in a weathered black<br />

that has a high grey component. This<br />

is un-prototypical, but brings out the<br />

surface detail well. Final weathering is<br />

a mixture of washes and dry powders<br />

resulting in a vastly improved look.

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