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NMRA RH October 2018

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The next part added was the Ridgeway<br />

or “Bear Trap” cinder catcher<br />

that I had already airbrushed flat<br />

black. It took some fussing with to<br />

shape the down pipe to fit my loco,<br />

after which it was glued to the top of<br />

the stack with CA. This Nn3 part, like<br />

the plow was a bit short with the cinder<br />

pipe not going down far enough.<br />

I simply glued a piece of a toothpick<br />

to the front of the cylinders and painted<br />

it flat black to match. This is one<br />

of my favorite detail parts.<br />

After this I added mullions to the front<br />

cab windows which were cut out of<br />

a Grandt Line engine house window,<br />

painted red to match the existing cab<br />

window trim and then carefully glued<br />

in with CA. The last detail part added<br />

to the locomotive itself was some<br />

feed water pipes. This loco was a bit<br />

lacking on external piping details so I<br />

thought these would add to it.<br />

For the tender I added a small air<br />

tank and piping on the back like the<br />

C&S #9. This part too was airbrushed<br />

flat black before it was applied. I’ve<br />

always liked tender doghouses on<br />

narrow gauge locomotives, and<br />

although the C&S #9 did not have<br />

one, my brakemen were complaining<br />

so I gave in. This little doghouse was<br />

entirely scratch built from building kit<br />

scraps with a bit of wire for handrail<br />

details. It was painted flat black with<br />

acetone “glass” added in the windows.<br />

Now my brakemen can get<br />

out of the weather and stop complaining!<br />

Detailing the 4-6-0 Ten Wheeler<br />

I did not have a real prototype in<br />

mind for this locomotive so only a<br />

few details were added. I did decide<br />

to add a homemade spark arrestor<br />

much like those found on the<br />

Durango and Silverton’s locomotives.<br />

Some fine screen, which I also got<br />

from Republic Locomotive Works,<br />

was cut in a narrow strip test fitted<br />

to the circumference of the smoke<br />

stack and cut to length. I glued it<br />

together with a tiny bit of CA using<br />

reverse tweezers as a clamp. While<br />

that was setting, I cut a tiny circle of<br />

screen using a bamboo skewer as<br />

a guide. This was glued on the top<br />

of the mesh ring and then the whole<br />

thing was glued to the top of the<br />

stack. Next I cut another tiny strip of<br />

painter’s tape and wrapped it around<br />

the top of the stack to hide the joint<br />

between the screen and stack.<br />

Lettering and Re-lettering<br />

First I had to remove any factory<br />

lettering. Both USRA short tenders<br />

came lettered for Union Pacific. To<br />

remove the factory lettering I used<br />

a small piece of paper towel soaked<br />

in Micro Sol and brushed periodically<br />

to keep it moist. After about 5<br />

minutes I used an eraser to rub off<br />

the factory lettering. Custom decals<br />

were required since I had decided to<br />

do my own “faux narrow gauge” line.<br />

Through a Facebook connection, I<br />

found Russell at Red River Models.<br />

I designed a whole sheet of lettering<br />

for locomotives and rolling stock, and<br />

Russell printed them out. His work is<br />

outstanding so be sure to contact him<br />

if you need custom decals. I added<br />

my road name, Silver Creek Northern,<br />

to the Ten Wheeler’s tender and<br />

the number 12 to the back. On the<br />

locomotive, I added numbers to the<br />

cab, sand dome and headlight. I also<br />

added “SCN” in tiny letters to the<br />

bottom of the cab. While I did not use<br />

it as a prototype, Tweetsie Railroad’s<br />

(former ET&WNC) #12 was the inspiration<br />

for the Ten Wheeler’s number.<br />

Later 4-6-0 locomotives will follow<br />

the ET&WNC’s numbering scheme.<br />

Once the decals were applied I over<br />

sprayed the locomotives with Testor’s<br />

Dull Cote.<br />

Weathering<br />

I had actually been stressing about<br />

this quite a bit and finally decided<br />

to order Doc O’ Brien’s weathering<br />

powders from Micro Mark. These<br />

worked great and were easy to use.<br />

I added rust spots to fittings, streaking<br />

to the boiler and tender, sand/dirt<br />

to the running gear and tender trucks<br />

and other general grime. Then, I over<br />

sprayed it again with Testor’s Dull<br />

Cote. This really diminishes the color<br />

of the weathering powders but, the<br />

good news is, more weathering powders<br />

can by applied. When viewed up<br />

very close, the locos almost look over<br />

weathered but when standing back<br />

to a normal viewing distance, I think<br />

they look pretty good. Also, I forgot to<br />

mention that both locomotives got an<br />

engine crew from Woodland Scenics.<br />

Final Thoughts<br />

All in all, this was a great learning<br />

opportunity for me, and has given me<br />

the confidence to try other customizing<br />

projects. My little “faux narrow<br />

gauge” line is going to be quite a<br />

unique railroad.<br />

Jason Stamper<br />

<strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong> - ROUNDHOUSE 25

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