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NMRA RH October 2018

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11th Avenue Station<br />

Mike Ruby<br />

Photos by Mike Ruby<br />

I<br />

have had the Walthers HO Union<br />

Station kit for many years, but<br />

had not got past opening the box,<br />

looking at the parts and making a<br />

card mockup.<br />

My 11th Avenue Freemo module was<br />

originally a double track one to the<br />

old <strong>NMRA</strong> BR standard. The station<br />

was to be mounted on a raised structure<br />

over the two mainlines and yard,<br />

there are videos on YouTube with<br />

the mockup in this position with long<br />

trains passing underneath. When our<br />

local group Western Union in Plymouth<br />

decided to change to the RS<br />

Tower single track standard, I built<br />

adaptor boards to covert the module<br />

to this standard. The station was<br />

moved to ground level on one of the<br />

adaptor boards. After a few years of<br />

use in this form I built a new module<br />

designed for single track from the<br />

start. Then 11th Avenue became my<br />

home layout.<br />

This year 11th Avenue was invited<br />

to the <strong>2018</strong> Christow, Devon Fremo<br />

event, I decided I must get around to<br />

building the station.<br />

I had always planned to fit out the<br />

interior. I’ve done this with several<br />

other buildings, but the size of this<br />

one would give a far larger space to<br />

work with. I decided the left section<br />

would be a restaurant with the centre<br />

and right still in use as the station as<br />

they open on to the platforms.<br />

8 ROUNDHOUSE - <strong>October</strong> <strong>2018</strong><br />

The first job was to do the insides<br />

of the walls, Walthers did not plan<br />

for an interior so the walls are hollow.<br />

I cut black card to fit around<br />

the window frames, the card<br />

was about the thickness that the<br />

window frames projected, black<br />

was used as I planned to light the<br />

interior and did not want it shining<br />

thought the walls. I then stuck<br />

printed texture paper to the black<br />

card but I left the paper longer than<br />

the card to allow for overlapping in<br />

the corners.<br />

Before attaching the inside<br />

walls I sprayed the outsides with<br />

Rust-oleum Limestone paint. I<br />

roughed up the inside of the walls,<br />

stuck the interiors with PVA and<br />

weighted them to keep the card<br />

flat.Next were the windows and<br />

doors, I painted the frames first<br />

Wall paper stuck to the wall finished<br />

window at left, as per the kit at right<br />

and then stuck on the glazing with<br />

Deluxe Glue ’n’ Glaze. Put a thin layer<br />

on the frame, it will stick faster and<br />

cleaner. I then cut edging strips from<br />

the textured paper and glued them<br />

around the window edges to hide the<br />

sides of the glazing, once again with<br />

Glue ’n’ Glaze. In retrospect I should<br />

have used thinner glazing than that<br />

supplied in the kit.<br />

I print the interior paper from Scalescenes<br />

dressed stone texture. This<br />

is my favourite way of doing interior<br />

walls. You can download many<br />

textures from such companies as<br />

Scalescenes, Clever Models and<br />

Team Track Models. Once you pay<br />

for the download you can print off<br />

as many copies as required. These<br />

companies also sell complete kits<br />

that can be printed out and laminated<br />

to card to make the kit. To protect<br />

the paper I sealed the printed sheets<br />

with flat acrylic spray varnish. To<br />

glue the sheets down I used Pritt<br />

Stick glue using a roller to press the<br />

paper down or double sided tape<br />

or transfer tape (this tape leaves a<br />

layer of glue but not the tape), I find<br />

liquid glue such as PVA tends to discolour<br />

the paper and I’ve read that<br />

spray on adhesive doesn’t last.<br />

The station was then built as per<br />

Walther’s instructions, without gluing<br />

the roofs on. I left the end canopies<br />

until after everything else was<br />

complete as I could then stand the<br />

building on end and not risk damaging<br />

them.

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