October - 2019

22 / TRAVEL / Uganda
TRAVEL / 23
AS I hold on to the boda boda driver for dear life, we fly
past the historic Jinja Clock Tower at a terrific speed; the
wheels of this motorbike taxi barely grazing the tarmac. Per
my instruction, the driver is taking me to a spot where I can
register for a local SIM card, and he seems to have taken to it
with the seriousness of someone taking a woman in labour to
the hospital. Despite becoming an official city as of this year,
Jinja is still very much a replica of other small towns across
East Africa. The bustling Main Street is hugged by small,
tightly packed shops whose brightly coloured walls seem to
always be advertising one thing or the other: deep yellow for a
telecom company, green for a curry powder that promises
vitality, the most vibrant of pinks for Baba Tembo’s electrical
shop, and so on.
“What do you mean I have to pay for a daily ‘OTT tax’ in
order to access social media?” I ask the lady who’s now helping
me to register for a SIM card. She looks at me indifferently,
possibly tired of having this very conversation with first-time
visitors to Uganda.
Back on the boda boda, we skirt across the Jinja bridge, past
scenic banana and maize farms that neatly line up like bridal
parties posing for wedding photos. Bananas are everywhere:
heaped on the back of a bicycle; seductively spread out on
roadside sacks tempting possible buyers; carried on the head of
a graceful woman; and my favourite, grilled with a dash of salt
and then hawked to hungry passersby.
Said to be the very source of the Nile (the longest river
in Africa and arguably the world), Jinja has incredible views,
world-class rapids, and promises a world of adventure for
the keen thrill-seeker. It’s also ideal for those on a budget
because food, outdoor activities, transport and entertainment
are relatively cheap here. Furthermore, the community of
adventure enthusiasts is small and welcoming, which is great
for solo travellers. Having only five days to spare, I arrive as a
visitor but leave with lifelong friends.
WHITEWATER RAFTING
As far as names go, it doesn’t get more intimidating than
the Class V rapids called “The Washing Machine”, but Jinja
has rapids that range up to Class VI, which is for seasoned
pros. As beginners, after we’re taken through some safety
instructions followed by a brief practical session out on the
water, some of our apprehension gives way to excitement,
which continues to build as the seven of us – in our brightblue
raft – start to paddle in a near-perfect synchrony. Shortly
after, we come to our very first, raging Class III rapids.
When I find out that they’re called Bubugo (condolences),
my apprehension returns. There’s no time to second-guess
things, however, as the majority of the group quickly vote that
we navigate it from its very centre, which increases our chances
of flipping over by about 90 percent. With feigned gusto, >
“As far as names go, it doesn’t get more
intimidating than the Class V rapids called
‘The Washing Machine’”
Where to stay
Lemala Wildwaters Lodge
A high-end lodge nestled in a
rainforest and surrounded by
rapids, right in the middle of the
Nile. lemalacamp.com
The Haven Eco River Lodge
Uganda
Serene, with stunning views.
Cottages are mid-range, but
consider camping for even
cheaper rates.
thehaven-uganda.com
The Nile Porch River Lodge
Has semi-permanent tents
raised on cliffs overlooking the
Nile. Accommodation available
for different budgets.
nileporch.com
Explorers River Camp
Has affordable camps, dorms
and rooms. Always lively. Great
for meeting other adventurers
from around the world.
raftafrica.com
Above: Whitewater
rafting on the Nile
(top); The Nile Porch
River Lodge (bottom
left); Grey Crowned
Crane (bottom right).
Right page: A school
bus takes a break
from the sun at the
Kakira Sugar Factory
in Jinja (top); View
from the pool at
Lemala Wildwaters
Lodge (bottom
left); Lake Victoria
(bottom right).
Wendy Watta, Hanae Benjnouh, Stocksy, Robert Harding