2019_PWN_V1_No4-web

WINTER IS
COMING
parts store or big box retailer. We like to
use -50 degree product when winterizing
our units.
Carefully pour several gallons of antifreeze
into a clean bucket (do not add
water). If your system uses a water storage
tank, remove your pick-up or supply
line and place the line in the bucket of
antifreeze. Start the pressure washer engine
as if you are pressure washing. Allow
the existing water in your system to pump
through the entire system.
Once the antifreeze is spraying out the
tip, place the wand tip into the antifreeze
bucket and allow it to circulate through
the system for a minute or so. Shut the
unit off and remove the supply line. Drain
the system storage water storage tank and
leave the drain valve open all winter. Be
sure the line going to the pump is either
plugged off or full of antifreeze, then
re-connect it to the storage tank with the
supply valve shut off.
Now the antifreeze is in your pump,
fittings, regulator, bypass hose, pressure
hose, spray wand handle, and tip. This
method also helps seals and O-rings from
dying out during storage. If your unit requires
water pressure to operate, you will
need to use a different method to supply
the antifreeze into your pump.
For this method, you will need a supply
pump to pressurize the antifreeze equal
to typical water pressure from your utility
supplier (40 to 60 psi). We use the smallest
sump pump or utility pump with a hose
adaptor that can supply around 3-8 gallons
per minute, depending on the demand
your pressure washer (check your owner’s
manual for water supply requirements).
With this method, the only difference
is that we hook up the supply hose from
the pressure washer to the sump pump and
immerse the sump pump into the bucket
of RV antifreeze. Start the sump pump
and pressure washer approximately at the
same time. Follow the same steps as we described
with the storage tank method.
After you have circulated the RV antifreeze,
remove the supply line and dispose
of or store the remaining antifreeze referencing
the product label.
Now, back to the engine. Since the
engine has now operated for the last
time before storing the unit for winter, fill
the fuel tank to full capacity leaving just
enough room to add additional fuel stabilizer
according to the amount of fuel
you topped off with. This step in very important
to prevent any unnecessary voids
in the fuel tank. When voids are present
in a fuel tank, it gives an area for water
to condensate.
Finish winterizing the engine by removing
the spark plug. Once the spark
plug is removed, you can either put approximately
¼ ounce of SAE 30 oil directly
into the open cylinder or purchase
some fogging oil from a local parts store.
Either method will keep the cylinder from
corroding, rusting, or sticking when restarting
next Spring. We like to use fogging
oil to completely cover the cylinder
walls and cylinder head.
Once the oil is added into the cylinder,
make sure the kill switch is in the
“off” position and pull the starting cord
a few times to properly disperse the oil in
the cylinder. Before replacing the spark
plug, inspect for carbon buildup. [Pictures
7a and 7b] Replace the spark plug
if necessary. Place the spark plug back in
cylinder head, tighten, and be sure to reconnect
the plug wire.
By following these few simple steps to
winterize a pressure washer system, you
can eliminate the possibility of freezing,
engine or fuel line corrosion, and keeping
the seals from drying out during the
winter months. While these steps are an
excellent guideline for preparing a pressure
washer for the winter months, you
should always do preventive maintenance
as needed according to the amount of use
your equipment experiences.
26 | PRESSURE WASH NEWS | VOL. 1, NO. 4 | FALL 2019