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64 STYLE | travel<br />

- RETREAT TO THE FOREST -<br />

ON HIGH<br />

There are people in this world who<br />

have such a way of talking that you<br />

immediately trust them implicitly and<br />

do their bidding without much thought.<br />

Guides Paul and Jess, of Rotorua<br />

Canopy Tours, are two such people. So<br />

much so that you’ll find yourself hanging<br />

upside down with the grace of a cow<br />

after you have said over and over again<br />

that you wouldn’t. And they are very<br />

forgiving should you utter a phrase on<br />

your way down that would make your<br />

mother blush with mortification.<br />

Rotorua Canopy Tours (147 Fairy<br />

Springs Road, Fairy Springs) is a zip-line<br />

and swing-bridge adventure high above<br />

the Dansey Road Scenic Reserve.<br />

You’ll duck and weave your way up the<br />

road, passing farmers on quad bikes<br />

wearing rugby shirts to find where<br />

the ponga, rimu, tawa and silver ferns<br />

have gathered. It is “virgin” forest, says<br />

Paul, untouched by humans and their<br />

chainsaws with some of the trees more<br />

than <strong>10</strong>00 years old.<br />

With six 1200-metre long zip lines<br />

and three swing bridges, you can<br />

choose between the Original or the<br />

Ultimate Canopy Tour. We were on<br />

the Ultimate and it included a nifty<br />

tandem zip line, the Back to Earth<br />

controlled descent (the upside-down<br />

flailing cow moment) and the 70-metre<br />

high Rocky Cliff Walk.<br />

It is a truly humbling experience to<br />

look down from a zip line into a vast<br />

ocean of ponga and silver ferns, their<br />

leaves spread as if clasped together in a<br />

bouquet. You’ll laugh for the sheer joy<br />

of it.<br />

General manager Paul Button calls it<br />

“emotional tourism”; stripping back the<br />

layers by immersing you in the forest.<br />

The idea was born when James<br />

Fitzgerald wanted to create the “best<br />

visitor experience in New Zealand”.<br />

He had searched the country but,<br />

turns out, the perfect location was <strong>10</strong><br />

minutes from his house. James asked an<br />

engineering friend from university, Andy<br />

Blackford, if he could whip up a zip-line<br />

course for him. He reckoned he could,<br />

so the two founders set to work and<br />

opened in 2012.<br />

The Inferno Crater Lake at Waimangu Volcanic Valley is almost an other-worldly sight.<br />

“Every piece of wood was carried<br />

into that forest and lofted into the<br />

trees,” says Paul. “James lost 17<br />

kilograms.”<br />

When they extended the course,<br />

due to customer demand, they used<br />

prefabrication and helicopters, but<br />

installed it all by hand.<br />

But this is also a restoration project<br />

of a forest once hauntingly silent of bird<br />

call due to predators. To date, more<br />

than $500,000 of customer money has<br />

purchased traps that see thousands of<br />

rats and possums removed every day.<br />

Native birds, including the long-tailed<br />

cuckoo, tomtit and North Island robin,<br />

have now returned. And, on the tour,<br />

you’ll have the opportunity to feed<br />

birds straight from your hand.<br />

You will be entertained but, more<br />

importantly, experience the sheer<br />

tranquillity of Mother Nature as you<br />

glide high above. canopytours.co.nz<br />

EVENING ADVENTURE<br />

It was like a scene out of Peter<br />

Pan; 28 suspension bridges strung<br />

between century-old redwood trees,<br />

some nine to 20 metres above the<br />

Whakarewarewa forest. Suddenly<br />

around the darkened forest, came<br />

an audible collective gasp. The lights<br />

had been turned on at Redwood<br />

Nightlights (1 Long Mile Road,<br />

Whakarewarewa). Trees suddenly<br />

danced with pink and purple spotlights,<br />

while 30 lanterns, designed by Kiwi<br />

David Trubridge, seemingly floated.<br />

Clever lighting made it appear as<br />

though thousands of fireflies had<br />

descended on the forest. It is the type<br />

of experience where children (and<br />

adults) dream of lands with fairies<br />

and mystical creatures. Go for the<br />

experience, stay for the magic. treewalk.<br />

co.nz/the-walk/redwoods-nightlights<br />

HISTORIC REGENERATION<br />

“It’s a bit like being in Jurassic Park, isn’t<br />

it?” he says.<br />

With bubbling rivers, in lurid colours<br />

of green and yellow, steaming lakes<br />

and expansive views of the forest,<br />

Waimangu Volcanic Valley (587<br />

Waimangu Road) really does feel<br />

other-worldly. We were 20 minutes<br />

in, exploring the world’s youngest<br />

geothermal valley and the stories of the<br />

Mt Tarawera volcanic eruption, during a<br />

roughly two-hour walk.<br />

On June <strong>10</strong>, 1886, when Mount<br />

Tarawera’s foul breath of lava<br />

erupted, it decimated the area. Now<br />

regenerated, it has a rather mesmerising<br />

and almost apocalyptic landscape<br />

seldom seen elsewhere. A boat trip<br />

around Lake Rotomahana will see you<br />

marvel at geysers and hear the story of<br />

the acclaimed Pink and White Terraces.<br />

waimangu.co.nz

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