Summer 2020

San Diego County's food media company

NO. 59 • PEAK OF SUMMER 2020

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

The

UNCOOK

BOOK

SUMMER 2020 | edible SAN DIEGO 1

Peak of Summer 2020

CONTENTS

Issue 59

IN THIS ISSUE

DEPARTMENTS

4 Publisher’s Note

EATING WELL

6 The Uncook Book: Tips For Being Ready to Eat

10 Let’s Go Nuts

12 Picked for Summer

14 Seafood City

10

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS

22 Local Markets Guide

PREP

24 How to Make Fritters Out of (Almost) Anything

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

The best of summer cooking and eating with new

original stories and videos weekly on our website.

READ

Cultivating Food Justice for Social Justice • Garden

of Eden • Second Chance Youth Gardens • Pandemic

Farming • Betty Crocker’s Kitchen in Valley Center

12

LISTEN

Living Local Podcast

WATCH

Potato Salad with Gooseberry Vinaigrette • Stone Fruit

Clafoutis • Peach Caprese • Beet Carpaccio with Burrata

and Pistachios + more recipe videos

ON THE COVER

Cotija cheese, chile-lime seasoning, and pickled corn

and jalapeño dress wedges of watermelon to bring

salty, tangy, spicy, and sweet together in perfect

balance. It almost looks like a guilt-free plate of nachos,

so it’s okay to indulge all day every day, right? Get the

recipe on page 12.

14

ISTOCK/GRADYREESE, JEN PHILLIPS, NANCY GARDINER

2 ediblesandiego.com

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TOOLS • IRRIGATION • GARDEN SUPPLIES

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Publisher’s Note |

edible Communities

2011 James Beard Foundation

Publication of the Year

Talk About Essential

Welcome to Edible San Diego’s summer 2020 issue. Grab something

cool to drink, and let’s take a moment to sit for a spell.

Like most everyone, Edible San Diego has been dealing with the

pandemic by taking stock, prioritizing, and then reorganizing. To

adapt, we created a new membership program in April and soon

realized we had to go all the way with a digital transformation to

survive and serve our readers and advertisers better than ever before.

Join us online where lots of exciting change is just beginning to unfold.

With so much transition inside and out, we postponed our summer

edition and hope you agree the results are worth the wait. We want

to thank the many people who jumped in to share their recipes and

photos because this summer issue needed to be our most collaborative

effort ever. Take that, COVID!

Our goal with this Uncook Book is to take the struggle out of “what’s

for dinner” (or lunch or breakfast) so we can make better food choices

for ourselves that are automatically better choices for our community,

economy, and the planet.

Considering that most of our everyday meals are not recipe-based, we

compiled simple ideas meant for easy prep and options that everyone

at the table will enjoy. There’s a list of classic fallbacks reminding us

about the ease of tacos and sandwiches, plus ways to make the most

out of rice papers and noodles with prepped veggies. We go nuts for

plant-based milk, creams, and dips that are good with anything, and

we included a few outstanding seasonal salads. We also dedicated space

to our city’s finest resource—local catch—and threw Pacific rockfish

into a ceviche duel.

Local food prepared simply and shared is an incredible gift—and

statement—each time. May we show gratitude for the natural

systems and the many hands that bring it to our plates. Let’s pledge

to learn and work together more effectively for more equitable

wellness in our region.

Edible San Diego is here to further this essential conversation, and your

participation makes all the difference.

Katie Stokes

Publisher, Edible San Diego


EDITORIAL

Katie Stokes

Editor in Chief

Maria Hesse

Executive Editor

Dawn Mobley

Copy Editor

Trisha Weinberg

Operations Assistant

DESIGN

Cheryl Angelina Koehler

Designer

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes

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info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292

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permission from the publisher. © 2020 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions.

If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and

accept our sincere apologies.

Thank you for supporting your local food media company.

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO

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LOCAL FISH FROM

LOCAL FISHERMEN

Fresh Local Seafood on

the docks in Point Loma

1403 Scott Street,

San Diego

619-222-8787

www.mitchsseafood.com

Safe Outdoor Dining,

Stunning Coastal Views,

Uniquely California Cuisine

ARValentien.com | (858) 777-6635

LTP ARV_Edible_June2020.indd 1

7/10/2020 7:58:22 AM


Eating Well |

The Uncook Book

Tips for being ready to eat

BY MARIA HESSE

When COVID-19 closures went into effect earlier this

year, it was interesting to observe what food items were

left in markets after the clearout. While nonperishables,

consumer packaged goods, and toilet paper had been wiped out,

many fresh produce items remained well stocked. Independent

stores like Small Goods in La Jolla and Jimbo’s in Del Mar opened

up their sidewalks to the farmers and vendors that suddenly had

no place to sell their goods since farmers’ markets had closed.

Restaurants started selling clever survival kits that offered pantry

staples, craft beer, hand sanitizer, and rolls of toilet paper.

Exposed to the insecurities of our conventional food sources,

consumers flocked to the fresh aisles and subscribed to communitysupported

agriculture. Innovative businesses like Market Box SD

made it easier than ever to get seasonal produce from local farms

like J.R. Organics. (There’s currently a produce box available on

their website that will cost less than two value meals.) And that

renewed interest you felt to grow and cook your own food again

was driven by our most basic of needs: food security.

And then we spent months cooking, and cooking, and

cooking.

Now, it’s hot, and we are adjusting to challenging and

changing environments, social and political climates, and

economic stress—and we’re spending more time at home than

ever before. Making the most with what we have is different for

everyone, but we wanted to bring together a quick compilation

of reliable cooking tips, techniques, flavor combinations, and

recipes to inspire healthy mealtime solutions that bring joy to

our day and come together in a matter of minutes.

It also happens to be the peak of summer, a time when you

might need to plan for canning, preserving, fermenting, or quick

pickling. We’ve found it’s easier to keep up with the pace of life

when we’ve done a little extra food prep; baking off a block of

tofu or some chicken will come to the rescue when the need for a

ready-to-eat meal arises.

Many of San Diego’s small farmers, cooks, writers, and

celebrities answered the call to help create this issue filled with

special recipes. We’ve also selected a couple summer specials from

our ediblesandiego.com archives that have never been in print.

With that in mind, we encourage you to be adventurous with

the meals you put together. We’re not throwing a dinner party—

we’re feeding busy families and our community with a glimpse

of realistic and flexible dishes to make for those times when you

simply don’t feel like cooking.

Join us online by tagging your food photos with

#ediblesdiscooking on Instagram. We love seeing how

diverse and delicious the food is on your table!

Five Ways to Master Uncooking

Your appetite may be big but your motivation for making a big

meal is zero. Ideally, we don’t want to have to spend too much

time using complicated recipes or buying excessive ingredients

to have variety in most of what we eat. Here are five things to

consider when trying to whip up something easy.

Advance Prep and Icebox Salads

Always keep a decent extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar

combination that you love, or a preferred salad dressing to

drizzle over a handful of leafy greens so that you actually enjoy

the salad. Try to eat at least one big bowl per day. Whether

you are stocking up on fresh produce through a CSA, farmers’

market, grocery store, or Costco, commit time on shopping day

to wash, prep, and store fresh produce when it comes home to

make a prep line for your fridge.

Prepped produce should be stored in separate containers that

can be grabbed quickly and supplemented in different meals

throughout the week. Look up practices to store food safely

and different techniques for lasting freshness, like storing sliced

celery in water to keep it crisp for up to a month. Try the same

with stem bouquets of fresh herbs like parsley and cilantro in

ISTOCK/ARX0NT


To rinse off dirt and kill bacteria, wash fresh produce

in a solution of three parts cool water and one part

distilled white vinegar. Fill up a salad spinner and

give everything a good soak for about 30 minutes.

Alternatively, a saltwater solution ratio of one teaspoon

salt diluted in one cup warm water and cooled makes

a good vegetable wash for leafy greens and berries,

especially those prone to little farm friends like worms.

the fridge—they’ll keep your kitchen smelling fragrant too.

Seeds, nuts, and dried fruits from the pantry add texture,

flavor, healthy fats, and protein, while pickled and fermented

veg or eggs will add an extra layer of tang.

Don’t forget deli-style salads. Various vintage versions

of icebox recipes with mid-20th-century origins combine

canned vegetables and mayonnaise, but the principle

technique of preparing an icebox salad (in my opinion) is to

throw a bunch of stuff together that can chill in the fridge

and somehow manage to taste even better the next day or

two, if not longer. You can steam fish in under 10 minutes,

chill it, and dress it with quick-pickled onions, tomatillos

or tomatoes, cilantro, lime juice, chiles, salt, pepper, and

extra-virgin olive oil for a quick fish salad. Much like a poke

or ceviche, it is effortless to indulge in with tortilla chips or

crackers for a couple of days, or add it to a green salad or a

bowl of rice. Try something similar with canned tuna if that’s

all you have, or riced cauliflower or slightly mashed cooked

beans for plant-based alternatives.

It’s also fun to be nostalgic and bring back dishes like

grandma’s macaroni salad, coleslaw, and retro recipes that

bring us comfort in memories.

Make a Sandwich, Burrito, Quesadilla, Pizza, or

Tacos With What You Have

Prep and cook time 2–30 minutes

Serves one to many

It seems so basic and universal, yet I recently found myself

teaching a teenager to smear peanut butter and jelly on two

pieces of bread as if it were a life skill. And it is. Sandwiches

can be as elaborate as they are utilitarian, and are iconic to

chefs and cultures from around the world. I have to consider

there might be someone who doesn’t like sandwiches, but

I beg you to try them again. Accommodating all dietary

interests and restrictions can be met with any variety of breads

or substitutes. While you should be able to master sandwich

making without much guidance, we can confirm that toasting

or grilling almost always adds an extra touch of love.

Making quesadillas will require a few quick minutes in

a skillet but it’s so simple even kids can do it—and adults

like it too. Heat a skillet over medium heat, add tortilla of

choice, top with grated cheese (or plant-based version), and

add in almost any ready-made item or veggies you’d like.

Hummus works great as a binder instead of cheese. Dress it

up with salsa and guacamole or keep it old school and enjoy

the pleasant combo of hot melty cheese with a warm tortilla.

The same goes for the idea of a pizza: an open-faced base for

melting cheese on sauce, garnished with an assortment of

fresh veg, in the oven or grill. You can also make quesadillas

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Packaged rice paper sheets and vermicelli noodles can be found at most Asian

grocery stores. Look for them at 99 Ranch Market, Mitsuwa Marketplace, and

Thuan Phat Supermarket. Pick up a few dipping sauces and fresh vegetables

while you are there.

and pizzas on a baking stone in a grill or smoker if you have one

and want to do something extra on the weekend. I’ve dressed up

a tortilla like a pizza, baked it, and called it a pizzadilla. There’s

also no shame in garnishing the frozen family-size organic cheese

pizza from Trader Joe’s with radish slices, green onion, and

chopped cilantro, and doing so makes it that much better.

Tacos are perhaps the most perfect quick fix meal, or at least

I’ve never met a taco I didn’t like. You can get creative with your

taco shells too, with thin slices of jicama or butter lettuce leaf

cups in place of tortillas. And we all know you can’t beat the

portability of a burrito.

Summer Roll or Bowl With It

Prep and cook time 5–30 minutes

Serves one to many

You might already be a fan of the fresh rolls at your favorite

Vietnamese restaurant. The translucent and chewy rice paper

wrapped around variations of fresh veggies, shrimp, pork, tofu,

and glass noodles satisfies all cravings for cool and refreshing eats.

The technique is thought to have originated in Vietnam, but

you might find the popular menu item offered at other Asian

restaurants. Rice paper is a staple in our house, and we’ve made

a habit of rolling up whatever fresh veg we have on hand in rice

paper and dipping it in a quick peanut, almond, or dumpling

sauce. Kids especially love having the hands-on opportunity for

water play with their food.

Simply soften a sheet of rice paper in room temperature

water. Some recipes suggest hot water, but I find that can lead

to overcooking and breakage. Once wet, rice paper may still

feel slightly stiff, but it will continue to soften for a couple of

minutes while you arrange the fillings

in the center and should be perfectly

pliable once you are ready to roll.

Bundle it up like a burrito and be

careful not to overstuff it.

Cold vermicelli noodle bowls are

another favorite Asian staple, and

making your own is basically foolproof

in under 10 minutes. The thin rice

noodles cook in a three-minute bath

of hot water, and while they taste

great served more traditionally with

lemongrass-scented meats and bundles

of fresh mint doused in fish sauce,

they’re flexible with whatever else you

have. Japanese soba noodles made

with buckwheat flour also make for a

refreshing take on pasta salad with a

gingery soy and citrus dressing.

If you need something hot even

though it’s warm out, I can tell you

that when I was growing up, we had a

rice cooker that always kept a hot pot

of rice. Grab a couple scoops, add a

few toppings like tuna salad, pickled

daikon, and furikake and call it a meal.

Grazing Boards

Pile a variety of nourishing nibbles on a platter like chopped veg,

fresh and dried fruits, olives, mini sandwiches, cheese, and nuts

and make a meal out of snacks. Assembled and left out midday,

it makes it easy for the whole family to grab bites as needed.

Prep, Extra Batches, and Leftovers Is Key

Really, we want to think about making food that can stretch

dollars, fulfill appetites, and trigger happiness in each day.

Pick two to three things to make in a week that you can cook

a big batch of and look forward to having in a sandwich, taco,

salad, or rice bowl. You get to decide what works best for you;

maybe it’s Instant Pot carnitas or one of those savory roasted

watermelons that I am desperate to try. Make the most out of all

of it with a rotation of healthy sauces and condiments like salsa,

guacamole, and cashew cream.

Many of our favorite local restaurants are adapting to current

times and making family meals, ready-made items, and kits

available for takeout or delivery—which is perfect because it

means even less cooking. Yay.

If and where you can, choose whole foods over processed

foods, eat more vegetables and fruits than meat, and buy

organic when possible—purchasing directly from a local farmer,

fisherman, or business is a better way to vote with your fork.

Meal planning is about being mindful of our food choices,

wasting less, and getting the most joy and nourishment out of it.

We live in the best place in the world for food lovers and we

hope you find more ways to love it as much as we do.

ISTOCK/OKSANAKIIAN



Eating Well |

Let’s Go

Nuts

BY MARIA HESSE

Who knew soaked cashews could

be so delicious? I put cashew

cream on everything from

pasta to baked sweet potatoes with pesto to salads, and I even use

it to make dips. The flexibility of cashew cream is never-ending

and the method works well other nuts, like macadamias and

almonds. With the addition of a variety of fresh herbs and flavors

including za’atar with scallions, garlic, and lemon, honey-sesame,

and even strawberry-lime, it was all so good—leading to this

compilation of cashew cream recipes.

Strain the nut cream in cheesecloth or reduce the water

content and you have a base for a nut cheese or spread, like in

the version from The Mexican Keto Cookbook (Ten Speed Press,

2019) by Torie Borrelli, a local integrative holistic nutritionist.

Or add in fresh herbs and jalapeños like chef Claudia Sandoval

does for a zingy dip.

Remember I said you can try this cashew cream technique

with almost any nut or seed and get similar results? We’ve got a

hemp milk recipe here for you too.

Plant-based dairy can easily do all the things we want it to.

BASIC CASHEW CREAM

MAKES 3 CUPS

1½ cups raw cashews

1½ cups water

1 tablespoon nutritional yeast

1 teaspoon–½ tablespoon salt*

*Try using kosher, sea salt, or pink Himalayan varieties

and adjust to taste preference.

In a large bowl, soak cashews in water for 30 minutes.

Transfer to a blender or food processor and blitz

until smooth and creamy (1 to 3 minutes), pausing

occasionally to scrape down the sides.

Keeps well covered in the fridge for about a week.

TIP: For a buttery basic cashew cream, add 1 teaspoon

turmeric powder and ½ teaspoon of freshly ground

black pepper to the recipe above. The result is

unbelievable on pasta.

TORIE BORRELLI’S

VEGAN CASHEW SPREAD

MAKES 1 CUP

1 cup raw cashews

¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus

more as needed

2–3 tablespoons freshly squeezed

lime juice

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

¼ cup nutritional yeast

¼ teaspoon turmeric powder

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

2 cloves garlic, peeled

In a large bowl, cover the cashews with cold filtered

water and salt. Make sure the cashews are covered by 2

inches of water. Top with a dish towel and leave to soak

for a minimum of 6 hours, or overnight. The cashews

will soak up a ton of water, so make sure your bowl is

big enough. Drain and rinse the soaked nuts to remove

the taste of salt.

Place the soaked cashews in a blender or food processor

and add the lime juice, vinegar, nutritional yeast,

turmeric, paprika, garlic, and enough fresh water to just

cover the cashews. Blend until the mixture is smooth.

If you want to use this as a crema, stir in hot water until

the desired consistency is achieved. Season with more

salt. Store in the fridge for 3 to 5 days.

If you want to spice it up, add 1 to 2 canned chipotles in

adobo sauce plus 2 teaspoons of sauce from the can.

You can also add ½ teaspoon chili powder.

Reprinted from The Mexican Keto Cookbook. Copyright

© 2019 by Torie Borrelli. Photographs copyright © 2019 by

Eric Wolfinger. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of

Penguin Random House LLC.

ERIC WOLFINGER


CREAMY CASHEW JALAPEÑO DIP

MAKES 3 CUPS

2 cups raw cashews

1 bunch cilantro, bottom stems removed

1–2 jalapeños, stems removed

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 cup water

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon kosher salt

In a medium saucepan, boil cashews for 15

minutes in about 3 cups of water or until

doubled in size. Remove from heat, rinse, and

drain.

Add all ingredients to a blender or food

processor and blend until creamy and

smooth. Add more salt, jalapeños, and lemon

juice to taste.

Serve alongside crudités or tortilla chips.

Provecho!

Recipe by Claudia Sandoval, February 26, 2020,

chefclaudiasandoval.com/lacocina

QUICK AND REFRESHING HEMP MILK

MAKES 2 CUPS

This plant-based milk alternative is great for

summer smoothies. Quin Butler from Hungry Vegan

Lion shared this version that she uses to make her

famous vegan berry ice cream.

2 tablespoons hemp seeds

1 tablespoon agave

CLAUDIA SANDOVAL, ISTOCK/LINDA RAYMOND

⅛ teaspoon salt

2 cups spring water

Add ingredients to a blender and blend on high for

2 minutes. That’s it.

Hemp seeds are a superfood with a good

balance of beneficial fats and omega

fatty acids. They are packed with protein,

fiber, vitamins, and minerals, and reduce

inflammation while boosting brain health and

supporting weight management. Hemp is also

the fastest growing crop in the US.


Picked for Summer

Fresh garden and farm harvests inspire us to make colorful salads with our favorite melons, cucumbers, and even cucamelons.

WATERMELON “NACHOS”

SERVES 4

This playful recipe swaps in sweet watermelon for

tortilla chips and salty cotija for nacho cheese to create a

refreshing take on triangular treats.

¾ cup white vinegar

½ cup water

⅓ cup sugar

1 tablespoon salt

1 jalapeño, sliced into thin rounds

1½ cups fresh corn kernels (cut from

about 2 to 2½ ears)

1 small watermelon, cut into 2–3

inch triangles

Chile-lime seasoning* or Tajín

Cotija, crumbled or grated

1 lime, cut into wedges

In a small mixing bowl,

combine vinegar, water,

sugar, and salt and stir until

dissolved. Add jalapeño and

corn to a sealable jar and

pour the salt and sugar brine

over it. Cover and refrigerate

overnight.

Assemble the nachos: On

a serving platter, arrange

watermelon in an overlapping

pattern. Sprinkle with chile-lime

seasoning, a dusting of cotija,

and spoon over pickled corn and

jalapeños. Serve with lime wedges

on the side.

*Find a recipe for homemade chile-lime

seasoning on ediblesandiego.com.

Recipe by Olivia Hayo published August 15, 2019

on ediblesandiego.com

Aside from being undeniably refreshing, melons

have a great nutritional profile. One cup of

cantaloupe boasts nearly enough vitamin A and C

to meet the recommended daily intake. Watermelon

contains very few calories and is a good source of the

amino acid citrulline and the antioxidant lycopene,

both of which offer numerous health benefits.

OLIVIA HAYO


JEN PHILLIPS, OLIVIA HAYO

AVOCADO AND HERB AGUACHILE

SERVES 1

Jen Phillips, Gracey Lane Farm, and chef Carlo

Guardado, Small Town, are neighbors in Fallbrook,

making for a perfect friendship. Phillips brought

Guardado freshly harvested cucamelons and citrus to

inspire this dish.

1⅛ cups lime juice

¼ cup lemon juice

¼ cup orange juice

1 serrano chile, seeds removed

½ bunch cilantro with stems

½ cup sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 avocado, diced

Assorted seasonal ingredients for garnish

Make the dressing: Chill citrus, serrano, and cilantro

before adding all of them to a blender with sugar and

salt; and purée until smooth. Pass through a fine mesh

strainer to remove large pieces (optional). Store in the

refrigerator until ready to serve.

Make the aguachile by drizzling the dressing over the

diced avocado on a plate.

Top it off with seasonal ingredients. Chef Guardado

plated this extravagant beauty (above) with pinto

beans, chickpeas, spiced peanuts, supreme-cut citrus,

sweet chile slices, cucamelons, radish, fresh coriander

seeds, dill and citrus blossoms, lemon verbena, fresh

oregano, thyme, and chile oil.

CUCUMBER MELON SALAD

SERVES 4

Juicy melon and crisp cucumbers are dressed with

fresh lime juice and sesame oil for an unexpected,

toasty twist.

3 Persian cucumbers, cut into bite-size pieces

½ ripe cantaloupe, rind removed, cut into bite-size pieces

1 lime, juiced

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon flaky sea salt

½ teaspoon sesame oil

⅓ cup crumbled feta

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Handful fresh mint leaves

Place cucumbers and cantaloupe in a large bowl. Add

lime juice, olive oil, salt, and sesame oil to the bowl.

Toss to coat and let marinate for 10 to 15 minutes.

Plate the salad and top with crumbled feta, red pepper

flakes, and fresh mint leaves.

Recipe by Haley Hazell published August 18, 2019 on

ediblesandiego.com


Seafood City

From super easy to a little more elevated, these recipes

offer alluring ways to get hooked on local catch.

Try buying fish directly off the boat at Tuna Harbor

Dockside Market every Saturday morning or check out

local retailers like Point Loma Seafoods and Catalina

Offshore Products—or go catch your own. You can

also order direct from Saraspe Seafood and Haworth

Fishing for delivery.

YELLOWTAIL TIRADITO

SERVES 2

By Michael Aaron Gardiner

Raw fish dishes are ubiquitous in Baja—from

mariscos stands and food truck parks to highend

Cali-Baja restaurants. Chefs of the Cali-Baja

and Baja Med movement, though, have elevated

these dishes beyond their ceviche origins by

introducing flavors and techniques from Italy,

Japan, and Peru. Miguel Angel Guerrero at La

Querencia restaurant in Rosarito and Tijuana was

the first to turn me on to it; then Benito Molina and

Solange Muris in their Ensenada restaurant Manzanilla

perhaps set the bar. This take on “uncooking” is

inspired by their work.

2 large red beets

1–2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 ear corn, husks and silks removed

1 yellow bell pepper, seeds and stem removed

Pinch kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 tablespoon ají amarillo purée* (see note below)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, divided

5 tablespoons chicken stock

1 tablespoon soy sauce

½–¾ pound sashimi-grade hamachi loin (yellowtail or

hiramasa), skinned and filleted

Microgreens (cilantro, radish, beet, arugula, basil, or

other) or fresh cilantro leaves to garnish

Roast the beets: Preheat oven to 375°. Coat beets lightly

with olive oil, wrap in aluminum foil, place on a baking

sheet, and roast in the oven until cooked through,

approximately 45 to 60 minutes. Remove beets from the

oven, unwrap, and place in the refrigerator to cool. Peel

beets when cool and the skins should slip right off.

Char the corn: Use the microwave/blowtorch method

by cooking corn ear in the microwave oven on high for

2 minutes, turn, and microwave 2 more minutes. Once

cooked, use a blowtorch to scorch the corn’s surface,

turning the ear to make sure all sides are charred.

Alternatively, char the corn directly on the flame of a

gas stove or grill, turning frequently.

Make the tiradito: Bring a small saucepan of water to

a boil, add yellow bell pepper, and boil for 15 minutes.

Remove pepper from the pot and let cool before

peeling the skin off. Place peeled pepper in a food

processor with a pinch of kosher salt and process until

smooth. Add ají amarillo purée, garlic, lemon juice, 2

tablespoons lime juice, chicken stock, and soy sauce

and pulse until puréed. Set sauce aside.

Trim yellowtail loin into sashimi-thin pieces, about 1½

inches by ¾ inch in size. Using a very sharp and long

knife, slice the fish on a slight bias toward the narrow

end and lay the slices on a plate; sprinkle lightly with

kosher salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Cut beet down to ½-inch dice. Cut charred corn off the ear.

To serve: Arrange yellowtail slices in a circular pattern on

four plates. Spoon sauce around and over the yellowtail.

Divide and top each plate with beet cubes and corn

kernels and garnish with microgreens or cilantro leaves.

*Find ají amarillo purée at Northgate Markets or Andrés

Latin Market.

NANCY GARDINER


DUELING PACIFIC

ROCKFISH CEVICHE

SERVES 4

By Alison Rowe

Let the flavorful notes of pineapple

and mint or mango and cilantro

duel it out for best summer ceviche.

It’s the perfect way to enjoy locally

caught Pacific rockfish.

4 limes

the outside is opaque and firm,

approximately 20 to 30 minutes.

(For a more well-done ceviche,

marinate the fish in the citrus juices

for 1 to 2 hours.)

Once the fish is ready, drain and

reserve marinating juices, then

transfer fish to a bowl with your

choice of:

Pineapple, Cucumber,

and Mint

Mango, Red Bell Pepper,

and Cilantro

1 mango, peeled and diced

1 large red bell pepper, seeds

removed and diced

½ cup minced red onion

1 jalapeño, seeds removed and

minced (or half if it’s extra spicy)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh

cilantro, plus leaves for garnish

ERIK BALDWIN

½ navel orange

1 pound Pacific rockfish, skinned

and deboned

Pinch salt, 1 large avocado, tortilla

chips, to serve

Juice three limes and the navel

orange half and combine juices in a

large glass bowl. Cut the remaining

lime into wedges for garnish.

Cut the fish into ½-inch cubes. Mix

diced fish with lime and orange

juices to evenly coat each piece of

fish. Cover and refrigerate while

preparing the rest of the remaining

ingredients. The fish should

marinate in the citrus juices until

½ cup diced fresh pineapple

¾–1 cup diced pickling cucumber

½ cup minced red onion

½ serrano chile, seeds removed and

thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint,

plus leaves for garnish

Combine all ingredients in a large

glass bowl and mix well.

(Note: This ceviche is best enjoyed

immediately after the fish is

mixed with the pineapple. Natural

enzymes in pineapple soften the

fish over time.)

Combine all ingredients in a large

glass bowl and mix well.

Finish ceviche by adding 2 to

3 tablespoons of the reserved

marinating juices to the fish and

ceviche mix of choice and gently

toss to combine.

Season with salt to taste. Garnish

with mint or cilantro leaves and

serve with lime wedges, avocado,

and tortilla chips.

Double the rockfish and citrus juices

if you want to try both ceviche

recipes at the same time. Let us

know which one is better.


BUCKY’S YELLOWTAIL SASHIMI

SERVES 2

“Neither Bucky Lasek nor I are professional chefs, but we

are professional eaters that have bonded over our love for

fishing and enjoying our fresh catch. This sashimi recipe

features fresh yellowtail Lasek caught in Baja waters and

seasonal ingredients from our farm. We hope you enjoy this

recipe as we do with our friends and family. Try it and trust

us—it will make you look like a pro.”

1 Meyer lemon

½ pound sashimi-grade yellowtail

1 serrano chile, thinly sliced

Pinch sea salt

Pinch black Hawaiian sea salt

Wasabi and Sriracha chili sauce, to serve

Tamari or soy sauce, to serve (optional)

—Jen Phillips, Gracey Lane Farm

Tip: Before making the sashimi, soak thinly sliced serrano

chiles in pickling juice for 30 minutes. Find a pickling recipe

from the Culinary Gardener, Ellyse Briand and Jen Phillips,

Gracey Lane Farm on ediblesandiego.com.

Cut the Meyer lemon in half. Juice half and reserve; quarter

and thinly slice the other half.

With a very sharp knife, slice the yellowtail sashimi-style.

Drizzle lemon juice over sashimi slices and top each piece

with a quartered slice of lemon. Sprinkle pinches of sea salt

and black Hawaiian salt and add a slice of serrano to each

piece. Squeeze a small drop of wasabi and Sriracha on top

to finish.

Devour as is or serve with tamari or soy sauce for dipping.

ERIK BALDWIN


ISTOCK/NATALIIA SHCHERBYNA

JOHN PARK’S QUICK POKE

SERVES 1

The guy behind the simple genius of Fish 101 in Cardiff

and Leucadia knows how to throw together a poke bowl.

This is the version he makes at home.

4–6 ounces sashimi-grade bigeye tuna

1–2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions and sweet onions

1 teaspoon grated ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Pinch sesame seeds

Pinch red pepper flakes

Hawiian sea salt to taste

½ cup cooked rice

With a sharp knife, dice tuna into ½-inch cubes.

In a medium bowl, mix together onions, ginger, soy

sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and red pepper flakes.

Adjust to taste. Add tuna and lightly fold until each bite

is coated, and finish with a dash of sea salt. Best served

chilled over a warm scoop of rice.

BEST TUNA SALAD

SERVES 4

1 pound albacore tuna, steamed and chilled*

½ cup diced celery

⅓ cup chopped scallions

⅓ cup chopped fresh dill

6 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise (Japanese

mayo)

2 dill pickles, diced

Splash dill pickle juice

Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to

taste

*If fresh tuna isn’t available, use 3 5-ounce cans

albacore tuna in water, drained.

Mix it all up, that’s it. Makes a perfect tuna

melt or keep it in the fridge for snack time with

crackers and crudités.

Recipe by Sam Zien, thecookingguy.com


Partner Content |

Preserve the

Harvest

What do you get with two days and...

8 ½ pounds homegrown pluots

5 enormous lemons

6 ½ pounds sugar

2 humongous pots

15 canning jars, lids, and rings

+ countless gallons of water?

15 8-ounce jars of yummy pluot jam.

What an exhausting weekend canning pluot jam!

Those two days of canning gave me even more

respect for farm families who spend spring planting

their vegetable gardens, summer tending the

gardens, then late summer preserving their produce

for winter. Just a handful of jam jars seemed like a

huge amount of work; putting up enough food to

last a household through winter is an unfathomable

task and fortunately one I don’t have to do.

Still, my vegetable garden produces much more

than my family can keep up with, so preserving

the harvest is important in my house. We can’t

get enough of the garlicky kosher dills I make

using homegrown cucumbers and my Russian

grandmother’s recipe. I freeze tomatoes whole in

zip-top freezer bags, then use the tomatoes through

the year in soups, sauces, stews, and my favorite

dish—shakshuka. Stone fruits get pitted and

frozen, too, plus dill and parsley to use in soups

and in stuffing. I freeze hot peppers, then shave off

bits as needed to give dishes an extra punch.

The basics of preserving food involves

fermenting, pickling, dehydrating, salting, and

canning, and you can see these methods in one

of my favorite episodes of A Growing Passion,

“Preserve the Harvest.” In that episode, I got to

work alongside local chefs and experts who taught

me to make dishes like fruit kimchi, Moroccan

preserved lemons, tomato jam, and a diversity of

pickled vegetables.

I’m heading back into the garden now for

late summer tomato harvest. I think I’ll make an

amazing tomato jam. Or maybe I’ll pick and dry

Anasazi beans to make chili this winter. Or maybe

more pickling cucumbers are ready. Or...?

Watch episodes of A Growing Passion

at 8:30pm on KPBS TV in San Diego,

or watch episodes online anytime

at agrowingpassion.com. Follow

A Growing Passion on Facebook,

Instagram, and Twitter for a behindthe-scenes

look at new episodes.


Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork No. 36 High Summer 2012

Member of Edible Communities

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FarM-gEnEraTEd PoWEr

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NO. 45

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FAMILIAR FACES

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THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

No. 39 | Winter 2019


Bottling liQuiD Courage

maKing sPiCeBush fiZZ

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a Brewery-fermentary-juiCery in one


telling the story of how the City eats anD DrinKs • no. 52 sPring 2018


telling the story of how gotham eats • no. 30 julyaugust


Goat Milk Soft SErvE

ConSCiEntiouS CatErinG

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ANDERSON VALLEY • LOW PROOF SPIRITS • BLACK VINES


Issue 45

Spring 2020

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edible san diego

Local

Monday

Escondido—Welk Resort √†

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.

3–7pm

760-651-3630

Enjoy the Open Air

Wednesday

Thursday

Tuesday

Clairemont √

2550 Fairfield St

3–6 pm, pickup only

Place orders at onthegofarmersmarket.com

by Monday at 3pm

619-550-718

Coronado √

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing

2:30–6pm

760-741-3763

Escondido √*

262 East Grand Ave.

2:30–7pm (2:30–6pm Oct to May)

760-480-4101

Mira Mesa √*

10510 Reagan Rd.

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)

858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–8pm

619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday √†

Bayard & Garnet

2–7pm

619-233-3901

People’s Produce Night Market √

5010 Market St.

5–8pm

619-813-9148

San Marcos √

1035 La Bonita Dr.

3–7pm

858-272-7054

UCSD Town Square √

UCSD Campus, Town Square

10am–2pm, Sept to June

858-534-4248

Vail Headquarters √*

32115 Temecula Pkwy.

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

Little Italy Wednesday √*†

501 W. Date St.

9am–1pm

619-233-3901

Ocean Beach √

4900 block of Newport Ave.

4–8pm

619-279-0032

Santee *†

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)

619-449-8427

South Bay √

4475 Bonita Rd.

3–7pm

Place orders at

onthegofarmersmarket.com

by Tuesday at 3pm

619-550-7180

State Street in Carlsbad Village √

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)

858-272-7054

Temecula—Promenade √*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

EAT the most

delicious

californiagrown

fruits

and vegGIES

7 days a week

Lemon Grove √*

2885 Lemon Grove Ave.

3–7pm

619-813-9148

Linda Vista √*†

6939 Linda Vista Rd.

3–7pm (2–6pm winter)

760-504-4363

North Park Thursday √*†

2900 North Park Way

3–6pm

619-550-7180

Oceanside Morning √*

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101

9am–1pm

760-791-3241

Rancho Bernardo √

16535 Via Esprillo

11am–1:30pm

619-279-0032

Friday

Bernardo Winery √

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte

9am–1pm

760-500-1709

Borrego Springs √

700 Palm Canyon Dr.

7am–noon, Oct to Apr

760-767-5555

Horton Plaza Lunch Market

225 Broadway Circle

11am–2pm

619-795-3363

Imperial Beach √*†

10 Evergreen Ave.

2–7pm (2–6pm winter)

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

La Mesa Village √*

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St.

3–7pm, year-round

619-795-3363


Markets Guide

Cook All Weekend

Saturday

find the freshest local catch

City Heights √*†!

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St.

9am–1pm

760-504-4363

Del Mar √

1050 Camino Del Mar

1–4pm

858-465-0013

Little Italy Mercato √†

600 W. Date St.

8am–2pm

619-233-3901

Sunday

Hillcrest √*

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.

9am–2pm

619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire √

Girard Ave. & Genter

9am–1pm

858-454-1699

Leucadia √*

185 Union St. & Vulcan St.

10am–2pm

858-272-7054

Pacific Beach √

4150 Mission Blvd.

8am–noon

760-741-3763

Poway √*

14134 Midland Rd.

8am–1pm

619-249-9395

Rancho Penasquitos

9400 Fairgrove Ln.

9am–1pm

858-484-8788

Murrieta √*

Village Walk Plaza

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia

9am–1pm

760-728-7343

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe √†

12655 Sunset Dr.

10:30am–3:30pm

858-735-5311

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village √

16077 San Dieguito Rd.

9:30am–2pm

619-743-4263

Temecula—Old Town √*

Sixth & Front St.

8am–12:30pm

760-728-7343

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

879 West Harbor Dr.

Port of San Diego

8am–1pm

Vista √*†

325 Melrose Dr.

8am–noon

760-945-7425

Support local growers

and businesses

Santa Ysabel √

21887 Washington St.

Noon–4pm

760-782-9202

Solana Beach √

410 South Cedros Ave.

Noon–4pm

858-755-0444

cultivate community

DUE TO COVID-19: Markets shown in gray are temporarily closed

and all listings are subject to change. Please contact markets

directly to confirm hours of operation and locations.

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources”

for more complete information and links to market

websites.

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’

Market checks.

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer).

! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks.

√ Indicates markets certified by the San Diego County Agriculture

Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller

or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state

quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market

are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural Commissioner.


Prep |

How to Make Fritters Out of (Almost) Anything

BY MICHELLE STANSBURY

Before the uncertainty around COVID-19, I bought

fresh produce twice weekly for plant-based meals. After

the shelter-at-home order, I would stand in front of my

cupboard looking at my shelf of nonperishables to figure out

what to make for dinner.

The first week, I made a bag of lentils and ended up with

seven cups, which is a lot for one person to get through without

boredom. I unenthusiastically threw the last remaining lentils

in a bowl with an egg and some flour, formed it into misshapen

patties, and baked them into fritters. Not bad.

The next attempt got some garlic and cheese—even better.

Fritters became my COVID comfort food and low-waste

savior. Leftover Indian food? Palak paneer fritters. Wilted leeks?

Fritters! On the first day of summer, sweet corn fritters seemed

an apt way to celebrate.

The most audacious fritter attempt made use of leftover pulp

from a batch of homemade vegetable stock. The fibrous mess was

made up of carrot tops and old spinach, onions that had started

to sprout, and beet greens. I cut it all up with scissors, mixed it

with the usual egg and flour, threw the patties on the stove, and

waited. My kitchen smelled of desperation, but once the edges of

the fritters were brown and crispy I realized that you can make

fritters out of just about anything—especially if you top them

with garlic herb cream cheese.

Start with veg

Use any vegetable as the base for delicious fritters and

mix in flour and egg, approximately 1 egg to ¼

cup flour and ½ cup

vegetables, depending

on moisture content.

Sweet potatoes

and carrots can be

grated and added

straight into the mix.

The same goes for

broccoli, spinach,

and leeks cut up into

small pieces. Corn off

the cob works great,

but if you use

frozen corn,

make sure to

defrost the kernels first. Zucchini and squash, however, need to

be drained after chopping or grating to remove excess water. For

legumes and leftovers, there is some trial and error that goes into

finding the right moisture content—add a little extra flour and

hope for the best.

Add deliciousness

Many fritters have some sort of cheese, which can be anything

from mild mozzarella to sharp cheddar or even crumbled goat

cheese. If you have strong flavors in your base or herbs, opt for

a milder cheese. Parmesan cheese gets nice and crispy due to the

low moisture content, and the flavor works, or avoid dairy by

leaving the cheese out. Any favorite fresh herbs or dried spices,

from rosemary to cilantro to cumin, add to the party, as does

quickly sautéed minced garlic or diced shallots.

Baked versus pan-fried

If your goal is to sneak veggies into a delicious snack, pan-frying

gets them crispy and decadent. You only need a few tablespoons

of oil for a shallow fry, heated until the fritters sizzle in the pan.

The healthier option is to bake them; this reduces extra oil and

I’ve found it also helps fritters keep their consistency longer. This

means I can pop them in the fridge and reheat as an easy snack for

several days.

Don’t forget dip

Topping my fritters with dip didn’t occur to me until I

needed to improve a lackluster batch (my vegetable

stock sludge), but now

I don’t leave it off.

Creamy sauces work

best: Try using a base

of Greek yogurt stirred

with harissa or pesto. A

homemade lemon aioli

is versatile and balances

savory fritters while

ready-made hummus,

ranch dressing, or

creamy artichoke

dips will also do

the trick.

MICHELLE STANSBURY




Summer 2020

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