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Edible San Diego E Edition Issue #51 Winter 2019

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Explore the flavors of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />

NO. 51 • WINTER <strong>2019</strong><br />

EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

SETTING<br />

A<br />

LIVELY<br />

TABLE


ARE YOU TRULY HAPPY INSIDE?<br />

GET THE POWER OF 3-IN-1<br />

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to help support digestive wellness.<br />

Take the Gut Check and tell us how you feel at GetHappyInside.com<br />

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2 ediblesandiego.com<br />

*Contains 4-8 g total fat. See nutrition information for total fat and saturated fat content.


ediblesandiego.com<br />

WE’VE GONE DIGITAL.<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> is now a vibrant online community resource,<br />

where you’ll find new content on our website every day—including travel tips,<br />

DIY, recipes, and fascinating profiles of SD County foodies.<br />

Sign up for our newsletter and discover more at ediblesandiego.com<br />

ediblesd ediblesandiego ediblesandiego<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 1


<strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

4 Publisher’s Note<br />

LIVING LOCAL<br />

8 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets,<br />

Feeding Our Souls, Let’s<br />

Grow, Bookshelf<br />

EAT WELL<br />

12 How to Pack a Bowl<br />

15 Five Ways to Cook with<br />

Kumquats<br />

16 Shrub Tonics<br />

GROW GOOD<br />

18 Starting a Raised<br />

Bed Garden<br />

20 Lemon Grove Builds a<br />

Community Garden<br />

FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />

32 Frank and Rick<br />

STAYCATION<br />

34 Getting Away at the<br />

Rancho Bernardo Inn<br />

38 Local Attractions<br />

39 Farmers’ Markets<br />

FEATURES<br />

Opinion:<br />

Who Cares<br />

About<br />

Farm-to-Table?<br />

PAGE 23<br />

Food to<br />

the Rescue<br />

PAGE 24<br />

ON THE COVER: A toast to the New<br />

Year with gleaned and honeyed<br />

kumquats, ricotta, and levain.<br />

PREP<br />

40 How to Conquer the<br />

Spaghetti Squash<br />

Aren’t these Clay<br />

+ Craft bowls and<br />

blates lovely? See<br />

more on page 9.<br />

2 ediblesandiego.com


Healthy Diet, Healthy Living<br />

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AND ARTISANAL FARM PRODUCTS RIGHT TO YOUR DOORSTEP<br />

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www.farmfreshtoyou.com<br />

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Healthy Desserts<br />

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4662 30TH ST. SAN DIEGO, CA 92116<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 3


PUBLISHER’S NOTE |<br />

HERE WE ARE ON THE EDGE<br />

OF THE PACIFIC AND LA FRONTERA,<br />

WHERE THE MOST SMALL ORGANIC FARMS<br />

OF ANY U.S. COUNTY<br />

MINGLE WITH 21ST-CENTURY URBAN LIVING.<br />

10 YEARS OF LEADING THE WAY<br />

ON WHY LOCAL MATTERS<br />

IN TODAY’S GLOBALIZED WORLD.<br />

LOCAL FOOD,<br />

LOCAL DRINK,<br />

AND LOCAL YOU.<br />

4 ediblesandiego.com


| PUBLISHER’S NOTE<br />

We are a small, virtually operated company in<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County, woman-owned.<br />

Networked with other <strong>Edible</strong> publishers and our<br />

parent company, we are entirely on our own as a<br />

business, hustling in the gig economy.<br />

Our reason for existing, pure and simple, is our<br />

commitment to local, <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-style.<br />

While some dismiss the notion or use it loosely,<br />

local is our 24/7/52 mission.<br />

We are here to tell the stories that must be<br />

told because they make all the difference<br />

in the world. Our blend of journalism and<br />

storytelling brings people together in new<br />

ways when business as usual isn’t an option<br />

anymore. We’ve all got high stakes.<br />

Whether you’ve come to <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

to relax, explore, DIY, or represent your business,<br />

we’re here with what you need to connect.<br />

Welcome to our Conscious Living issue! We’re<br />

setting a lively table and stepping boldly into <strong>2019</strong><br />

to make some regenerative waves.<br />

Wanna surf with us?<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Head Honcho<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

P.S. The format for this piece was inspired by one of my<br />

favorite companies, Title Nine. Missy Park, I hope you<br />

interpret this imitation as the flattery it’s intended to be.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 5


REFRESH<br />

edible Communities<br />

2011 James Beard Foundation<br />

Publication of the Year<br />

Only the freshest organic fruits and vegetables,<br />

local when possible, in our juice bar. No fillers.<br />

No ice. Straight up organic fruits and veggies...<br />

the way it should be!<br />

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />

lOCATIONS<br />

CARMEL VALLEY<br />

Del Mar Highlands Town Center<br />

12853 El Camino Real; (858) 793-7755<br />

ESCONDIDO<br />

Felicita Junction Shopping Center<br />

1633 S. Centre City Parkway; (760) 489-7755<br />

CARLSBAD<br />

The Forum<br />

1923 Calle Barcelona; (760) 334-7755<br />

4S RANCH<br />

4S Commons Town Center<br />

10511 4S Commons Drive; (858) 432-7755<br />

DOWNTOWN SAN DIEGO<br />

Horton Plaza<br />

92 Horton Plaza; (619) 308-7755<br />

WWW.JIMBOS.COM<br />

EDITORIAL<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Maria Hesse<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Felicia Campbell<br />

Executive Digital Editor<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Associate Editor<br />

Dawn Mobley<br />

Copy Editor<br />

Nan Sterman<br />

Gardening Editor at Large<br />

DESIGN TEAM<br />

Allie Wist<br />

Designer<br />

Olivia Hayo<br />

Lead Photographer<br />

Joni Parmer<br />

Contributing Stylist<br />

PUBLISHER<br />

Katie Stokes<br />

SALES & MARKETING<br />

Scott White<br />

Buisiness Development<br />

Executive<br />

Cass Husted<br />

Marketing<br />

John Vawter<br />

Sales Rep<br />

@ediblesd<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

@ediblesandiego<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

For more information about rates and deadlines, contact<br />

info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292<br />

No part of this publication may be used without written permission<br />

from the publisher. © <strong>2019</strong> All rights reserved.<br />

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If<br />

an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our<br />

sincere apologies. Thank you.<br />

COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

CONTACT<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

P.O. Box 83549 • <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, CA 92138<br />

619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com<br />

6 ediblesandiego.com


Mission Beach<br />

3733 Mission Blvd.<br />

Open Everyday 8am-3pm<br />

Cold Pressed Juices,<br />

Hand-Crafted Smoothies,<br />

Acai Bowls & Salads<br />

@JuiceWaveSD<br />

Organic Ingredients,<br />

Locally Sourced,<br />

Vegan, Gluten-Free<br />

www.JuiceWaveSD.com<br />

san diego seed company<br />

sow-grow-eat-repeat<br />

REGIONALLY ADAPTED<br />

& SEASONALLY SELECTED SEEDS<br />

LOCAL<br />

NON-GMO<br />

HEIRLOOM<br />

sandiegoseedcompany.com<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 7


LIVING LOCAL |<br />

Liquid Assets<br />

Hot Dish<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

Delectable dishes you can<br />

only find on Adams Ave.<br />

Adams Avenue has long been touted as<br />

one of the best food streets in the city,<br />

but here we take a look at truly unique<br />

dishes showcasing local ingredients<br />

and our food community.<br />

Giddyup and make your day that much<br />

brighter by putting the Jimmy Pesto<br />

in your mouth. Hawthorn Coffee starts<br />

this beautiful toast off with a slice of<br />

rustic sourdough from Bread and Cie (a<br />

gluten-free toast option from Coronado’s<br />

Gluten Free Pantry is available) and<br />

tops it with a generous layer of locally<br />

made spicy pesto from Baby Clydesdale<br />

and crumbles of almond ricotta and<br />

blistered tomatoes. 3019 Adams Ave. •<br />

hawthorncoffee.com<br />

If eating one of the ultimate original<br />

pizzas in this city is your thing, look<br />

no further than Blind Lady Ale House.<br />

They made this list for always having<br />

a local, farm-fresh pizza special on the<br />

menu, plus that Mountain Meadows<br />

mushroom pizza, and an enticing<br />

regional beer selection that includes<br />

house brews from Automatic Brewing<br />

Co. We also like them for being<br />

Agents of Change by donating 20% of<br />

meatless Monday pizza sales to local<br />

nonprofit organizations. 3416 Adams<br />

Ave. • blindladyalehouse.com<br />

Go for the sauce at Bleu Bohème with<br />

a steaming pot of les moules frites<br />

au harissa. The classic menu item<br />

was created by executive chef and<br />

owner Ken Irvine. “Harissa paste is<br />

a combination of chiles balanced for<br />

flavor, not heat, and adds depth and<br />

complexity to seafood,” says <strong>Diego</strong> Paul<br />

Lopez, Bleu Bohème’s chef de cuisine.<br />

He sautés Spanish chorizo in garlic,<br />

shallots, and a white wine-harissa demi<br />

glace with black Mediterranean mussels<br />

from the Pacific Ocean and serves them<br />

with hot and crispy Bleu pomme frites.<br />

4090 Adams Ave. • bleuboheme.com<br />

If you haven’t seen what a good fluff<br />

and fold can do to gelato, we suggest a<br />

freshly made waffle cone full of Yarn at<br />

An’s Dry Cleaning. What used to be a dry<br />

cleaning shop on Adams Ave is now the<br />

storefront for a small-batch gelateria that<br />

features off-the-cuff fresh and original<br />

flavors with seasonal ingredients and<br />

a perfect balance of sweetness. We’ve<br />

got the scoop on this winter special<br />

showcasing the bright citrus flavor of<br />

kumquats with honey and tajin. 3017<br />

Adams Ave. • adcgelato.com<br />

BY JONI PARMER<br />

<strong>Winter</strong> blues got ya down? Who are we<br />

kidding, it’s <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, so whether the<br />

sun is shining or we justify donning a<br />

Patagonia on those dreary 65° days, craft<br />

cocktail seekers can head straight to<br />

You and Yours for the urban distillery’s<br />

Rye Me a River. The wintry blend of<br />

spice, pine, and citrus spirits is equally<br />

as swank as their feminine tasting room<br />

interior. youandyours.com<br />

Take one sip of Communal Coffee’s<br />

calming Lavender Honey Latte and<br />

discover a new form of stress relief.<br />

Mildly sweetened with clover honey,<br />

the pleasing taste of their housemade<br />

lavender syrup shines in this soulwarming<br />

rendition of a coffeehouse<br />

classic. For the creamiest combo, get it<br />

steamed with Communal’s scratch oat<br />

milk. communalcoffee.com<br />

Nestled in the heart of South Park, this<br />

cozy gem serves up a rotating selection<br />

of natural vinos from organically farmed<br />

wineries around the globe. Uncork the<br />

Zorah Karasi from Armenia, a mediumbodied<br />

red made from indigenous yeast,<br />

a rare practice that yields a unique<br />

complexity of aromas and texture.<br />

The fruity notes piled on a smoky<br />

undertone pair well with their handmade<br />

empanadas.<br />

Join their <strong>Winter</strong> Wine Club for first<br />

dibs on exclusive releases and meet the<br />

makers behind your favorite labels.<br />

therosewinebar.com<br />

8 ediblesandiego.com


| LIVING LOCAL<br />

Feeding Our Souls<br />

BY JONI PARMER<br />

FEELING GOOD<br />

Something might be in the water with so<br />

many SoCal pregnant mommas, myself<br />

included. Do your body and budding spud<br />

an invigorating favor and head to OH! Juice<br />

for the OH! Baby Superfood & Juice<br />

Cleanse, a 100% organic, locally driven,<br />

plant-inspired custom cleanse. Begin by<br />

customizing flavor profiles and health goals,<br />

and leave with a day, week, or even onemonth<br />

spread of the freshest juices, proteinpacked<br />

mylks, elixirs, and vegan-inspired<br />

meals to fuel your nine-month marathon.<br />

Available for pickup, local delivery, and airmail.<br />

Starting at $75/day • ohjuicecleanse.com<br />

LOOKING GOOD<br />

Just when you thought CBD couldn’t get<br />

more creative than cannabis-infused edibles<br />

and hempy beers, Kearny Mesa’s Kb Pure<br />

Essentials launched an entire business of allnatural<br />

wellness and beauty products formulated<br />

with the mega healing properties of the<br />

once-forbidden extract. A blend of essential<br />

oils, minerals, natural butters, and their most<br />

concentrated dose of CBD, Kb’s Eye Renewal<br />

Cream is the topical cream your fine lines and<br />

wrinkles have been dreaming of!<br />

$35 • kbpureessentials.com<br />

AND READY TO EAT<br />

Sip, nosh, and cozy up with this designmeets-function<br />

Mug & Wood Plate set<br />

from Clay + Craft, the slow-made ceramic<br />

artisan behind a coveted line of minimalistinspired<br />

dinnerware and home decor. Perfect<br />

to give or receive yourself, the creamy<br />

stoneware mug is purposely designed for you<br />

to feel the warmth of whatever you are drinking<br />

and comes with a natural birch plate<br />

(from local woodworker Grace & Salt) that<br />

holds the sweet or savory key to your heart’s<br />

desire—at least for that moment.<br />

$60 • clayandcraft.com<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 9


Fresh & Local<br />

Seafood<br />

OPEN MON & TUES 8AM-3PM<br />

WED–SUN 8AM–5PM<br />

Fish Market | Food Demos |<br />

Special Events<br />

Committed to sourcing better seafood<br />

choices from responsible fisheries or farms.<br />

5202 Lovelock St., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> 92110<br />

619-297-9797 | www.catalinaop.com<br />

Gelato, Coffee & Panini<br />

Housemade<br />

Small Batch Gelato<br />

escogelato.com<br />

Downtown Escondido<br />

Featuring local produce from our community.<br />

10 ediblesandiego.com


| LIVING LOCAL<br />

Let’s Grow<br />

BY JONI PARMER<br />

KOHLRABI<br />

Brassica oleracea gongylodes.<br />

Ya got that? Good, because you<br />

don’t want to miss this fiber-rich<br />

member of the cabbage family<br />

during the winter months. The<br />

German term for “cabbage turnip,”<br />

this recently revived root is making<br />

impressive cameos at farmers’<br />

markets, in home kitchens, and on<br />

the menu of some of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />

best restaurants. Shaved, pickled,<br />

roasted, sautéed or puréed, Kohlrabi<br />

is crunchy, juicy, and mildly<br />

sweet. The vegetable is a blank<br />

canvas ready to receive almost any<br />

flavor, and you can eat the stem, the<br />

bulb, and the leaves. The best news?<br />

Kohlrabi is easy to grow! Luke<br />

Girling of Cyclops Farms recommends<br />

starting your plants indoors<br />

about four to six weeks before you<br />

plant outside. The Eder variety<br />

matures fast, so eager growers can<br />

harvest when the first stem is one<br />

inch in diameter, yielding a young<br />

and tender crop begging to be devoured<br />

straight from the ground.<br />

Quick-Pickled Kohlrabi<br />

Recipe by Davin Waite of Wrench &<br />

Rodent Seabasstropub<br />

2 kohlrabi bulbs<br />

½ cup apple cider vinegar<br />

½ cup white vinegar<br />

½ cup water<br />

1 cup sugar<br />

1 tablespoon pickling spice<br />

Pinch salt<br />

Peel the kohlrabi bulbs, chop off the<br />

stems and leaves (stems and leaves can<br />

be saved for kraut or a stir-fry; peels<br />

can be saved for broth), and thinly shave<br />

root on mandolin or slice very thin with<br />

a knife.<br />

Heat vinegars, water, sugar, and spice<br />

in a small saucepan and stir until sugar<br />

dissolves. Bring to a boil, then remove<br />

from heat; add kohlrabi. Transfer to a<br />

pickling jar and let sit for 2 hours before<br />

refrigerating. The pickles are ready to<br />

eat once they’ve been fully chilled, 2 to 3<br />

hours or overnight.<br />

Where to Buy<br />

Pick up seeds to grow your own<br />

kohlrabi at Seabreeze Family Farm, or<br />

visit Cyclops Farms for a list of farmers’<br />

markets and restaurants featuring our<br />

new favorite crop! seabasstropub.com,<br />

seabreezed.com, cyclopsfarms.com<br />

<strong>Edible</strong> Bookshelf<br />

It’s time for a blanket and a mug of something warm.<br />

Here’s a couple books to feed our minds with this winter.<br />

Shine<br />

La Jolla resident Sylvie Coulange<br />

self-published a cookbook that shares<br />

simple and inspiring recipes, including<br />

Power Bliss Balls that will make you,<br />

you know, shine. You can find it at<br />

local retailers like Native Poppy in<br />

North Park and Timeless Furnishings<br />

in Solana Beach. Find more locations<br />

to buy and the recipe for Power Bliss<br />

Balls on ediblesandiego.com.<br />

Community Table:<br />

Recipes for an Ecological<br />

Food Future<br />

The Ecology Center documents<br />

the curation of a series of<br />

dining experiences in 2016.<br />

Committed to their 10 principles<br />

of a regenerative food system,<br />

chefs and farmers share stories<br />

and recipes from farm to plate.<br />

Powerhouse Books, 2018<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 11


How to<br />

Pack a Bowl<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

It is said that Buddha carried a bowl from village to village,<br />

collecting small offerings of food along the way. At the end of<br />

the day, he would eat his meal, enjoying a variety of flavors that<br />

ceremoniously blended together. No wonder the legend inspired<br />

the trendy name craze for satisfying go-to meals.<br />

It doesn’t have to be a Buddha bowl or a power bowl to be delicious.<br />

Just pack a bowl with some basics for a healthy one-dish<br />

breakfast, lunch, or dinner.<br />

Start with grains for the base<br />

Here, we have steel-cut oats but use what you’ve got. Other<br />

suitable grain bases include rice, quinoa, pasta, and even veggie<br />

noodles to satisfy low-carb diets.<br />

Add fresh veggies<br />

This bowl is packed with greens, including arugula, and<br />

avocado for some of that healthy fat. We thinly sliced radish<br />

to add a little extra spice—but mostly to make this bowl look<br />

pretty with those splashes of fuschia. You can try any other<br />

fresh veggies you have on hand.<br />

A little protein<br />

Try the fried egg or go for toasted chickpeas to keep it vegan.<br />

Seafood or some cubed-up leftover chicken, beef, or any protein<br />

will also do just fine.<br />

Some sprinklings<br />

Sprinklings like the everything bagel spice mix, which also happens<br />

to go with everything, add extra nuttiness, crunch, texture,<br />

protein, and flavor. You can also sprinkle with sunflower seeds,<br />

hemp seeds, sesame seeds, other chopped nuts, and more.<br />

And Special Sauce<br />

What’s a bowl without a little dressing? It can be as simple as a<br />

little extra-virgin olive oil and lemon, or a quick take on a nut<br />

butter dressing like this one here.<br />

Wait, what kind of bowl did you think we were packing?<br />

Find more nutritionally packed bowl recipes from Bastyr University students<br />

on ediblesandiego.com.<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

12 ediblesandiego.com


Breakfast for Dinner<br />

SERVES 1<br />

More like breakfast all day<br />

long, this bowl is so simple<br />

and satisfying you’ll want to<br />

reinvent it for every meal.<br />

Oats for grain, egg for protein,<br />

leafy greens, avocado, radish,<br />

and scallions all topped with<br />

a tantalizing OJ drizzle pack a<br />

delicious, nutritional punch.<br />

Short on time to make steel-cut<br />

oats? Use rolled oats instead,<br />

or just reheat plain oatmeal<br />

left over from breakfast. Enjoy<br />

with a mimosa.<br />

OATMEAL<br />

½ cup steel-cut oats<br />

2 cups vegetable broth or<br />

water<br />

Pinch salt<br />

OJ DRIZZLE<br />

¼ cup orange juice<br />

1 tablespoon almond butter<br />

1 tablespoon tamari or soy<br />

sauce<br />

2 dashes hot sauce (plus more<br />

to taste)<br />

Salt and pepper to taste<br />

EGG<br />

½ teaspoon olive oil<br />

1 egg<br />

Pinch salt<br />

¼ cup water<br />

TOPPINGS<br />

1 handful fresh leafy greens<br />

1 radish, thinly sliced<br />

½ avocado, sliced<br />

1 scallion, finely chopped<br />

Everything bagel spice mix<br />

to taste<br />

Make the oatmeal: In a small<br />

saucepan, add oats, broth, and<br />

salt and bring to a boil. Turn<br />

heat down and simmer until the<br />

oats soften, about 20 minutes.<br />

Make the OJ drizzle: In a<br />

small bowl, whisk together all<br />

ingredients with a fork until<br />

combined. Adjust hot sauce,<br />

salt, and pepper to taste.<br />

Make the egg: Heat olive oil<br />

in a frying pan with a lid over<br />

medium-high heat. Add the<br />

egg, sprinkle with salt, and<br />

cook until egg white turns<br />

opaque. Add water and cover<br />

pan; turn heat to low and<br />

cook until the whole egg turns<br />

opaque, about 1 minute.<br />

To serve: In a bowl, layer oatmeal,<br />

greens, radish, egg,<br />

avocado, and scallions. Top<br />

with OJ drizzle and finish with<br />

a generous sprinkle of everything<br />

bagel spice mix.<br />

Recipe by Fernanda Larson,<br />

MS, CN, Assistant Professor,<br />

Bastyr University<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 13


See what’s growing this season!<br />

Thursdays at 8:30 pm & Saturdays at 3:30 pm<br />

Stream online anytime<br />

@ agrowingpassion.com<br />

COMMENT<br />

INSPIRE<br />

WATCH<br />

Live Music<br />

Artisan Food<br />

Fresh Local<br />

Produce<br />

www.carlsbad-village.com<br />

• Best Chef Winner,<br />

Accursio Lotà<br />

• Best Wine List Winner<br />

• 2017 Pasta World<br />

Championship Winner,<br />

Accursio Lotà<br />

Local organic produce,<br />

meat & seafood<br />

Authentic Italian cuisine<br />

Food, wine & spirits<br />

pairing events<br />

Patio dining<br />

Dog friendly<br />

2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com<br />

14 ediblesandiego.com


| EAT WELL<br />

Five Ways to Cook with Kumquats<br />

BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />

Jewel-like kumquats are only in season from January to<br />

April. We love to eat them like candy, tender skin and all,<br />

with dime-sized slices making great additions to salads and salsas.<br />

They also happen to be an amazing ingredient to cook with.<br />

Honeyed<br />

Bring a pound of kumquats to a boil with a cup of honey, ⅓ cup<br />

sugar, 1 ¼ cups water, and half a vanilla bean, then turn down to a<br />

simmer and cook for about 25 minutes or until the liquid is thick<br />

and the little fruits begin to melt. Use the topping for ice cream,<br />

cakes, or ricotta-smeared toast (find Olivia Hayo’s recipe for honeyed<br />

kumquats on toast from our cover on ediblesandiego.com).<br />

Slow Cooked<br />

Slow-roasted pork shoulder, chicken tagine, and Instant Pot<br />

braised beef all benefit from the bright citrus pop of kumquats.<br />

Halve a cup or two and toss them in. The result is pure magic.<br />

Baked<br />

When your kumquats are getting a little too ripe, toss them in a<br />

blender with a nub of ginger and add the purée to your muffin<br />

or cake batter. You can even get fancy and add a few slices to<br />

the bottom of your muffin tins for miniature kumquat upsidedown<br />

cakes.<br />

Stuffed<br />

Slide slices of kumquat and little pads of butter under the skin<br />

of a roaster and stuff the cavity with aromatic herbs, garlic, and<br />

a few whole kumquats for a sweet take on classic roast chicken.<br />

They also make a great addition to stuffed pork loin.<br />

Grilled<br />

Add a subtle smoky flavor to your kumquats by skewering them<br />

with chunks of marinated fish; if you’re grilling steak, chicken,<br />

or anything that takes longer than a few minutes to cook, make<br />

separate kebabs of kumquats to serve alongside.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 15


EAT WELL |<br />

BY ERIN JACKSON<br />

Shrub<br />

Tonics<br />

POST-HOLIDAY SEASON, we’re reaching for refreshing<br />

tonics made with local shrubs—sweet and tart concoctions<br />

of fruit, sugar, and vinegar that stimulate the<br />

appetite while slaking thirst. Besides being delicious,<br />

these tonics are said to contain healthy ingredients that<br />

aid digestion and fortify the immune system.<br />

16 ediblesandiego.com


| EAT WELL<br />

Cold Buster<br />

This tropical tonic has ginger<br />

and turmeric to help strengthen<br />

the immune system, encourage<br />

digestion, and ease pain and<br />

inflammation, plus a dollop of<br />

honey to soothe sore throats. For a<br />

boozy version similar to a hot toddy,<br />

reduce the water by 1 ounce and<br />

add 1½ ounces of warm whiskey.<br />

½ ounce Nostrum Pineapple<br />

Turmeric Ginger Shrub<br />

1 ounce fresh lemon juice<br />

2 teaspoons honey<br />

4 ounces hot water<br />

Mix first 3 ingredients in a mug and<br />

top with hot water to serve.<br />

Cranberry<br />

Bubbly<br />

The dynamic duo of ginger and<br />

cranberry juice may improve heart<br />

health and help prevent infection,<br />

making this mocktail tonic tasty<br />

and good for you.<br />

1 ounce Nostrum Strawberry<br />

Cascara Ginger Shrub<br />

¾ ounce unsweetened cranberry<br />

juice<br />

¾ ounce fresh lemon juice<br />

3–4 ounces soda water<br />

Build in a tall glass over ice to serve.<br />

Make Your<br />

Own Shrub<br />

Most shrub recipes use a<br />

1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar,<br />

and vinegar. Macerate<br />

acidic fruits like citrus,<br />

berries, apples, pears, or<br />

stone fruit with white<br />

sugar and add your choice<br />

of vinegar. Apple cider,<br />

champagne, or white wine<br />

vinegars are best.<br />

Grapefruit<br />

Rosemary Shrub<br />

1 grapefruit<br />

1 cup white sugar<br />

1 cup organic, unfiltered apple cider<br />

vinegar with the “mother”<br />

2 sprigs rosemary (optional)<br />

Remove zest from the grapefruit and set<br />

aside. Cut away the peel and chop the<br />

flesh into large chunks.<br />

Pour sugar into a medium nonreactive<br />

bowl, add zest, and massage to extract<br />

the fragrant oils. Add the chopped grapefruit<br />

flesh and gently toss. Cover with<br />

plastic wrap and store in refrigerator<br />

until the mixture resembles a thick syrup,<br />

about 24 hours.<br />

Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh<br />

sieve into a large measuring cup. Press<br />

down lightly on the fruit to extract the<br />

juices and scrape in any remaining sugar.<br />

Whisk in vinegar and pour into a glass<br />

bottle or jar. Add the rosemary (if using),<br />

cap the bottle, shake well, and store in the<br />

fridge for another 24 hours.<br />

Shake mixture before using, as sugar may<br />

not fully dissolve for several days. Shrubs<br />

can last a few months in the fridge. Over<br />

time, the vinegar flavor will mellow out.<br />

Recipes by Nostrum • nostrumshrubs.com<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 17


GROW GOOD |<br />

BY NAN STERMAN<br />

Waterwise Gardening<br />

Starting a Raised Bed Garden<br />

<strong>Winter</strong> is the perfect time to prepare for a spring vegetable<br />

garden, especially if you are just beginning. There’s much<br />

more to growing vegetables than plopping seedlings into the<br />

ground. In our hot climate, where soils have very little organic<br />

matter and no summer rainfall, the best way to grow veggies is to<br />

plant them in raised beds.<br />

What’s a raised bed? The most simple and time-proven raised<br />

beds are bottomless wood boxes that sit on the ground. Each is<br />

filled with a soil mixture customized for vegetables. Since vegetables<br />

tend to be “thirsty” plants, each bed gets plumbed with<br />

a dedicated irrigation system on its own valve, separate from the<br />

rest of the garden.<br />

Planting in raised beds is different too. The plants can be<br />

grown closer together, which means more vegetables in less space.<br />

There are endless variations of raised beds, but here are the basics.<br />

The best place for raised beds<br />

Choose a spot in full sun, near your kitchen, with good access<br />

to water. Set beds atop bare soil, NOT on top of grass, landscape<br />

cloth, weed cloth, concrete, gravel, or asphalt.<br />

The best materials for raised beds<br />

I am a fan of building raised beds with untreated wood, preferably<br />

redwood.<br />

Line the bottoms with hardware cloth (not chicken wire,<br />

which breaks down sooner). Cut hardware cloth a little wider<br />

and longer than the bed, and push it down into the bed from<br />

above so the hardware cloth curves up the sides. This helps keep<br />

gophers, voles, and other critters from burrowing in through<br />

the seams.<br />

STELLA DE SMIT ON UPSPLASH<br />

18 ediblesandiego.com


The ideal size for raised beds<br />

Width: The ideal bed is four feet wide. At that width, most adults<br />

can reach the center from either side without stepping into the bed.<br />

Length: Length is not critical, though the most practical length is<br />

eight feet or longer.<br />

Height: The easiest-on-your-back beds are 18 inches or taller. Cap<br />

the top with a horizontal 2x4 or 2x8. Use the cap to set tools,<br />

plants, or your rear end on.<br />

How many raised beds<br />

Two or more beds allow you to rotate crops between beds each<br />

year. Vegetables in the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants,<br />

tomatillos, potatoes) are highly susceptible to nematodes,<br />

fungi, and other pathogens that develop in the soil. Rotating them<br />

from one bed to another helps keep those pathogens at bay. With<br />

two beds, you can plant the nightshade plants in one bed the first<br />

year, in the other bed the second year, then continue to alternate<br />

back and forth.<br />

How to irrigate raised beds<br />

For best success, use in-line drip laid out in a grid atop the<br />

soil. I like Netafim Techline EZ 12mm dripline irrigation, with<br />

emitters spaced every six inches. Space grid lines six inches apart<br />

so there is an emitter every six inches in every direction. With<br />

this layout, water spreads evenly through the soil and doesn’t<br />

leave dry spots.<br />

The best soil for raised beds<br />

Fill beds with a soil mix (not “potting soil”) that is at least 40%<br />

organic matter, 60% soil. Since beds hold a considerable volume—<br />

a bed 4’ wide by 8’ long by 18” tall holds just shy of two cubic<br />

yards—buy soil in bulk from a soil supplier, rock yard, or compost<br />

facility. Mix in two to four cubic feet of compost, plus one or two<br />

cubic feet of worm castings (both compost and worm castings are<br />

sold by the bag)—the bigger the bed, the more compost and worm<br />

castings. Fill each bed to the top. Water two or three times to saturate<br />

the soil and help it settle. I do not recommend using perlite in<br />

raised beds, since it eventually migrates to the surface.<br />

Mulch for raised beds<br />

Straw (not hay) is the best mulch for vegetable gardens. Layer on<br />

three or four inches of straw to keep soil moist and temperatures<br />

moderated. Eventually the straw will decompose into the soil.<br />

For more information, watch my YouTube videos on building<br />

and planting raised beds.<br />

Garden expert, designer, and author Nan Sterman specializes in low water,<br />

sustainable, and edible landscapes. She is the host of A Growing Passion, a<br />

TV show that explores how plants power the planet. Episodes air on KPBS<br />

television on Thursday nights at 8:30 and Saturday afternoons at 3:30, and<br />

on Monday nights at 8:30 on KPBS2. See past episodes online at agrowingpassion.com.<br />

Sterman’s latest book is the just-released Hot Color, Dry<br />

Garden available in bookstores, online, and on her website www.waterwisegardener.com.<br />

She runs the popular Facebook group <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Gardener<br />

and leads international garden tours.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 19


GROW GOOD |<br />

BY CHERIE GOUGH<br />

From Vacant<br />

to Vibrant<br />

Lemon Grove Builds<br />

a Community Garden<br />

When you picture a community garden, you might imagine<br />

neighbors gathering, chatting as they water tomatoes and<br />

attend gardening workshops. But before the dream of a community<br />

garden can become reality, a lot of planning, sweat, and<br />

persistence goes into it. Lemon Grove’s Community Garden<br />

Board knows this to be true. Their garden, which is coming<br />

together in stages, has been a dream since 2008. Now, with the<br />

go-ahead from the city, along with the support of community<br />

organizations and neighbors, they are growing community in a<br />

once-vacant lot at the corner of Olive Street and Central Avenue.<br />

Putting Down Roots<br />

Anita Lopez says that in order for the city to lease the property<br />

to create the community garden, it wanted commitment from a<br />

community-based group. A team of volunteers elected leaders, drew<br />

up a business plan, and found a fiscal agent in THRIVE Lemon<br />

Grove, a nonprofit grassroots organization that focuses on improving<br />

the public safety and health of the city. In June 2018, the Lemon<br />

Grove Community Garden gained approval from City Council.<br />

The community garden is part of the Healthy Eating Active<br />

Living (HEAL) Zone Coalition. Kaiser Permanente helps fund the<br />

initiative through a grant to help small communities like Lemon<br />

Grove focus on reducing obesity. Lopez, program manager of HEAL<br />

Zone, envisions a future where plot members can learn new ways to<br />

use their seasonal produce through cooking demonstrations at the<br />

farmers’ market and monthly Saturday workshops in the garden.<br />

Environmental Sustainability<br />

John Hochman, a key member of the group since its inception,<br />

is the environmental sustainability officer. “I see this garden<br />

as an extension of the world at large and I want to help it grow<br />

with the principles by which we should live,” says Hochman,<br />

who reclaimed the wood to build the raised beds. He also found<br />

a friend and Vista community activist to donate the salvaged<br />

20 ediblesandiego.com


| GROW GOOD<br />

materials for the chain-link fence that lines the garden’s perimeter.<br />

“It takes a lot of energy and natural resources to create these<br />

materials, so everything that can be reused serves an important<br />

purpose,” he notes. Last summer, the group began meeting every<br />

Saturday to clear the land and start building beds and fencing<br />

that will eventually be surrounded by dwarf citrus trees.<br />

Garden chair Walt Oliwa says that the drip irrigation system will<br />

help save water and minimize the frustration often experienced by<br />

novice gardeners who may not know how often to water.<br />

Accessibility<br />

“Accessibility is a key factor in the garden’s vision and planning,”<br />

says Oliwa. Of the garden’s 40 raised beds, six will be raised higher<br />

to provide seniors with elevated access to tend to their gardens, and<br />

three beds on the garden’s perimeter will be wheelchair accessible.<br />

Neighbors Come Together<br />

Neighbors in passing have contributed significantly to the<br />

garden’s progress. In October of last year, while volunteers took<br />

measurements to install the drip irrigation system, a pickup truck<br />

stopped by. The community resident was a contractor who offered<br />

his time to do the job professionally. Other neighbors have<br />

donated tools that they no longer need. Such small acts are planting<br />

seeds of success. Locals attend Saturday builds when they can,<br />

and engage through an active social media campaign and website.<br />

Logistics<br />

Garden beds are available to interested Lemon Grove residents<br />

first, and any excess beds will be available to neighboring community<br />

members. To make beds affordable, the $100 annual<br />

fee can be paid quarterly and includes access to water, seasonal<br />

starter seeds, shared garden tools, and monthly workshops. Garden<br />

members will be expected to volunteer for several hours each<br />

year to keep the space looking beautiful and welcoming, which<br />

will also give them a chance to take advantage of the garden<br />

managers’ expert advice on topics such as composting and growing<br />

organic produce. Monthly newsletters will keep members<br />

and interested residents informed about events put together by<br />

the group’s program director Kirk Taylor.<br />

“There is a synergy here,” says Lopez. She believes that with the<br />

garden’s growing success, neighbors will continue to support efforts<br />

that raise awareness about healthy living. A thriving garden yields<br />

more than just produce. It means active time spent outdoors,<br />

relationship building, and access to healthy foods for all.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 21


When it's about food... #specialtyproduce<br />

Fabulous<br />

INSIDEOUT<br />

FABULOUSHILLCREST.COM<br />

22 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

A few CSA shares and<br />

farm boxes we’ve tried<br />

Garden of Eden Organics<br />

Find pickup locations and add eggs<br />

to a cooperative CSA box offering<br />

a variety of regional produce at<br />

goeorganics.com.<br />

Who Cares About<br />

Farm-to-Table?<br />

BY MICHAEL A. GARDINER<br />

Remember when farm-to-table was all the<br />

rage? Or was it just that “shortening the<br />

food chain” sounded cool? I was genuinely<br />

excited by the first appearance of Cherokee<br />

Purple potatoes, wasn’t I? But then there was<br />

that Colin the Chicken bit on Portlandia<br />

where it wasn’t enough to know the chicken’s<br />

breed, if it was organic, that it was locally<br />

raised and from which farm, and whether or<br />

not the hazelnuts in the bird’s diet were local—but<br />

they also had to know the chicken’s<br />

name. I laughed at this. And not ironically.<br />

Such a chuckle suggested that I was not<br />

adequately invested, and for that, a friend<br />

of mine—let’s call him Colin—threatened<br />

to pull my foodie card. “In <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, we’re<br />

not second fiddle to Portland in farm-totable<br />

or beer,” Colin says. He had facts. “<strong>San</strong><br />

<strong>Diego</strong> County farms are worth $1.7 billion<br />

annually, contributing 16,000 jobs to the<br />

local economy, and no other county in the<br />

country has more small organic farms.”<br />

I proudly point out that I’ve immensely<br />

enjoyed dining at spots like Wrench &<br />

Rodent Seabasstropub, Garden Kitchen,<br />

and A.R. Valentien, who persevere on<br />

the restaurant side of the farm-to-table<br />

equation. However, despite growing efforts<br />

by grassroots campaigns like Farm<br />

to Fork <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> and the Farm Bureau’s<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> 365 that verify local sourcing<br />

practices for diners, we both know<br />

that these efforts are far outnumbered<br />

by restaurants whose commitment to<br />

farm-to-table is marginal, at best.<br />

I don’t know what’s worse: greenwashing<br />

menus, which undercuts the value of those<br />

who walk the talk, or ignoring provenance<br />

altogether.<br />

But Colin persists further, the bastard:<br />

“Throw a stone and you’ll hit a farmers’<br />

market.”<br />

Yes, <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County boasts a bounty<br />

of farmers’ markets, but many are overrun<br />

with expensive crafts, and produce from as far<br />

north as Modesto isn’t what I would call local.<br />

Pressing the point, Colin adds, “Farmers<br />

are feeling the pinch of long-term drought,<br />

increasing water rates, and regulatory<br />

requirements and are struggling to get their<br />

crops to market.” Ouch.<br />

So the moral of the story is there’s no single<br />

step consumers can take to support local<br />

farms, but making the effort matters. If you<br />

like looking a farmer in the eye at a market,<br />

buy direct from them even if they’re from<br />

Modesto. This foodie—yes, I reclaim my<br />

card—prefers CSAs. Community Supported<br />

Agriculture, at its purest level, is an alternative<br />

socioeconomic model in which community<br />

members purchase advance shares of a harvest<br />

from a farm in exchange for future weekly<br />

boxes of fresh produce or goods.<br />

“So, which is your CSA?” Colin asks me.<br />

I gulp. “I used to be with Suzie’s before<br />

they closed. And I was with J.R. Organics<br />

before that.” Colin gives me a dirty look.<br />

“Yeah,” I say.<br />

I’ll have resubscribed before you read<br />

these words.<br />

Dickinson Farm<br />

CSA shares are available quarterly<br />

for the finest selection of heirloom<br />

varietals. Their Farmacy offers chefmade<br />

meals at dickinson.farm.<br />

Be Wise Ranch<br />

Checking out their online harvest<br />

calendar works up an appetite.<br />

Sign up for quarterly shares at<br />

bewiseranch.com.<br />

Eli’s Farms<br />

Get the Farmer’s Pick Plus CSA<br />

box with 13 to 15 items from this<br />

Fallbrook farm at elisfarms.com.<br />

J.R. Organics<br />

Get a free box for every 12 boxes<br />

purchased at jrorganicsfarm.com.<br />

Wild Willow Farm<br />

Support regenerative agriculture<br />

and one of the most significant<br />

educational farms in the region by<br />

purchasing a $25/week full share or<br />

half share at sandiegoroots.org.<br />

Da-Le Ranch<br />

The Inland Empire ranch offers CSA<br />

shares for their variety of ethically<br />

and sustainably raised meats at<br />

da-le-ranch.com.<br />

Farm Fresh to You<br />

Flexible box options range<br />

from traditional CSA to fruit<br />

only to organic snack pack at<br />

farmfreshtoyou.com.<br />

Imperfect Produce<br />

This <strong>San</strong> Francisco-based<br />

company is buying ugly fruits<br />

and veggies from organic<br />

growers and selling them in<br />

customizable boxes that can be<br />

delivered straight to your door at<br />

imperfectproduce.com.<br />

Specialty Produce<br />

The farmers’ market box is a great<br />

deal for $20, with options to add<br />

local favorites like PB Peanut Butter<br />

and Chuao Chocolatier for when<br />

you’ve had too many vegetables,<br />

at specialtyproduce.com.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 23


Food<br />

to the<br />

Rescue<br />

How six<br />

<strong>San</strong> Diegans<br />

changed<br />

their lives<br />

by changing<br />

their diet.<br />

BY DEBRA BASS<br />

24 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

As in most things, intent makes all the difference. Making<br />

dietary changes to punish yourself typically leads to failure.<br />

But if your objective is to feel better, you can make the same<br />

changes with less resistance and more long-lasting positive results.<br />

It won’t feel like a sacrifice because you have a greater goal.<br />

If your diet makes you miserable, then it’s not the right option<br />

for you, no matter what anyone says. Your happy medium<br />

might be more animal protein, less animal protein, or no animal<br />

protein at all. And your preferred diet doesn’t have to have<br />

a name. Maybe you’re 80% vegan and 20% carnivore, or 60%<br />

keto and 40% fruitarian. Don’t let labels dictate your lifestyle;<br />

experimenting with different eating lifestyles, however, can<br />

serve a purpose. It can help you determine what satisfies your<br />

body and what satisfies your soul—or it can help you determine<br />

what doesn’t.<br />

Mentally and physically, there is no one way to eat healthily.<br />

And it should go without saying, but we’ll say it now: If you<br />

can honestly say that you feel great, sleep well, wake up energized,<br />

and you’re happy with the condition of your body, skin,<br />

hair, and nails, then read no further.<br />

You don’t need to adopt a specific dietary preference to<br />

live your best life. But if you’re curious about how these <strong>San</strong><br />

Diegans turned their lives around with wildly different dietary<br />

styles, read on.<br />

This article shares the dietary experiences of six individuals and is not intended<br />

to make medical claims, provide dietary advice, or suggest treatments<br />

for health-related issues. Consult a qualified healthcare provider with any<br />

questions regarding treatment for a medical condition.<br />

Christina<br />

Kantzavelos<br />

30, GLUTEN-FREE<br />

Christina Kantzavelos would like to officially apologize for all<br />

the eye rolls she gave people on a gluten-free diet.<br />

“I learned the hard way that gluten intolerance and celiac<br />

disease are very real,” she says.<br />

Kantzavelos admits that she ignored her symptoms for years.<br />

She was at her worst in graduate school, but she assumed that<br />

stress was the obvious cause.<br />

She suffered through bloating, swelling, migraines, and<br />

cramps and took it all in stride. The last straw for her was acne.<br />

“It sounds vain that it was acne that sent me to the doctor<br />

and not the other stuff, but, well, it was a lot of acne,”<br />

Kantzavelos admits with mock horror. She never had acne as a<br />

teenager, so developing blemishes after graduate school seemed<br />

a cruel twist of fate.<br />

Visiting dermatologists didn’t yield a solution. The lotions and<br />

potions didn’t help, so a friend recommended she see a naturopath,<br />

something else that Christina would have normally greeted<br />

with an eye roll, but this time she was desperate. The naturopath<br />

diagnosed her with celiac disease almost immediately. Later tests<br />

confirmed her condition—and then everything changed.<br />

Her gluten intolerance made her a lot more tolerant of<br />

gluten-free enthusiasts.<br />

“Yes, it’s a fad diet for some<br />

people, but the fact that it’s a fad<br />

drives up demand, which means<br />

that there are a lot more options for<br />

people like me,” Kantzavelos says.<br />

Besides, going gluten-free won’t<br />

harm anything but your tastebuds.<br />

She’s found many gluten-free<br />

options, including some things that<br />

rival their gluten-laden counterparts.<br />

But occasionally, she starts raving<br />

about a product that she thinks must<br />

taste as good as the original and she<br />

presents it lovingly to her spouse or<br />

family for confirmation.<br />

“The response is usually, ‘um, no,<br />

I can tell it’s missing gluten,’” she<br />

says. “So my baseline has definitely<br />

shifted.”<br />

The good news is that she<br />

doesn’t care and she doesn’t feel<br />

like she is sacrificing. Her diet is<br />

stricter than most because of other<br />

dietary issues, but she says that it<br />

doesn’t feel limiting since she focuses<br />

on what she eats that makes<br />

her feel good.<br />

She’s gluten-free, dairy-free, and<br />

soy-free. She keeps her sugar intake<br />

to the bare minimum, doesn’t<br />

drink alcohol, and mostly follows<br />

a low-histamine eating regimen as<br />

well. When she “cheats,” she eats<br />

lentils, nuts, other legumes, avocados,<br />

and sometimes eggs.<br />

“I know it sounds really sad<br />

that those are my cheats, because<br />

most people think of those things<br />

Go-to snacks<br />

Laiki Crackers Gluten-Free<br />

Rice Crackers<br />

NuGo Egg White Protein<br />

Bar<br />

Justin’s Peanut or Almond<br />

Butter Packets<br />

Crunchmaster Protein<br />

Crackers<br />

Lark Ellen Farm Grain<br />

Free Bites<br />

Bubba’s Snack Mixes<br />

Bhuja Snacks<br />

Favorite Restaurants<br />

Nectarine Grove in<br />

Encinitas<br />

Starry Lane Bakery<br />

Plumeria (Thai vegan)<br />

Instagram @<br />

buenqamino<br />

as really healthy, but they don’t agree with my body. So if I eat<br />

them, I do it in moderation,” Kantzavelos says.<br />

A licenced psychotherapist by profession, Kantzavelos is also<br />

a writer. Her favorite topics are wellness and mental health.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 25


FEATURE |<br />

Esperanza<br />

Peralta-Guerrero<br />

69, KITCHENISTA<br />

As a first-generation Mexican-American, Esperanza Peralta-<br />

Guerrero spent most of her life cooking a traditional Mexican<br />

diet—lots of flavorful pork dishes cooked in lard and supplemented<br />

with processed sugar. She had a desire to eat and cook<br />

healthier meals, but she didn’t know where to begin.<br />

A friend invited her to her first yoga class at Olivewood<br />

Gardens & Learning Center in National City. That day, they<br />

were also doing cooking demonstrations. Peralta-Guerrero<br />

was immediately interested and signed up for the Kitchenista<br />

program. It took a year for her to get through the waiting<br />

list, but she says the program changed her life and the life of<br />

her family.<br />

“I’m most proud of my mom,” she explains. Her mom is<br />

now 90 years old and at the time that Peralta-Guerrero started<br />

the program, her mother was pre-diabetic. She shared all the<br />

information with her mother who was initially skeptical, but<br />

gradually, her mother changed a lifetime of cooking habits<br />

and started eating meatless meals, eliminated processed foods,<br />

and switched from sugar to Stevia.<br />

“She really accepted all of it and started eating more vegetables<br />

and more salads, which are not traditional in a Mexican<br />

meal,” Peralta-Guerrero says. “I think it’s because she felt the<br />

difference, not just saw the difference in me.”<br />

The Kitchenista program stresses the benefits of cooking<br />

with organic foods and shares meatless recipes and ways to<br />

incorporate healthy substitutions into traditional meals.<br />

Peralta-Guerrero says that her husband grumbled a little<br />

about missing red meat at mealtime, but he had faith that<br />

she was looking out for his best interests. She says that he too<br />

noticed a difference in himself.<br />

“I don’t know how to describe it, but for me I felt not so<br />

heavy,” Peralta-Guerrero says. “I feel like I have more of a<br />

balance in my body. I don’t miss the meat or any of the foods<br />

that I used to eat.”<br />

Though she concedes that she didn’t give up tamales, she<br />

now eats them with chicken, not pork, and she only eats those<br />

from her own kitchen or her mother’s so she knows what they<br />

are made with.<br />

Three years as a Kitchenista has changed her entire eating life.<br />

She now has a small garden at home and grows many of the<br />

fruits and vegetables that her family eats most. Her husband<br />

has planted tomatoes, zucchini, chiles, and bell peppers, and<br />

they also have nectarine, peach, golden mandarin, apricot, and<br />

lemon trees. She says that it<br />

sounds like a lot, but you don’t<br />

need much space to start a family<br />

garden.<br />

As a volunteer educator at<br />

the center she learned that<br />

food gardens aren’t so difficult<br />

to maintain. Having fresh<br />

produce is also a great motivator<br />

to use it in meals and share<br />

them with family.<br />

After Peralta-Guerrero<br />

finished the program, her<br />

47-year-old daughter did the<br />

same. Now, when her family<br />

cooks together, they are creating<br />

healthy meals that everyone<br />

enjoys. Peralta-Guerrero hopes<br />

this cultural shift will mean<br />

that she will be preparing nutritious<br />

meals with her mom and<br />

daughter for years to come.<br />

Go-to breakfast<br />

A slice of Ezekiel bread<br />

with coconut oil, plus<br />

yogurt and fruit, usually<br />

a mix of strawberries,<br />

blueberries, bananas,<br />

apples, pecans, almonds,<br />

cinnamon, and a<br />

teaspoon of maple syrup<br />

Go-to snacks<br />

Raw mango<br />

Homemade coconut balls<br />

and chocolate peanut<br />

butter balls<br />

Handful of nuts<br />

Orange slices with chili<br />

powder and pink salt<br />

Go-to salad<br />

Greek salad with Napa<br />

and green cabbage,<br />

tomato, cucumber, feta<br />

cheese, cilantro, thin<br />

slices of red onion,<br />

kalamata olives, and<br />

extra-virgin olive oil<br />

26 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

Colleen Someck<br />

58, FLEXITARIAN<br />

Before Colleen Someck could start dancing in the kitchen, she<br />

had to learn to like food again. She survived an eating disorder that<br />

escalated when she was 19.<br />

“I knew I had a problem because I was binging and purging and<br />

feeling guilty and ashamed,” Someck recounts. “I knew something<br />

was wrong, but I couldn’t fix it.”<br />

She had semi-successful recoveries but always relapsed. When<br />

she finally attempted to get help at a rehabilitation center, they<br />

turned her away because she wasn’t thin enough. So you can guess<br />

the damage that wrought.<br />

“I can look back in hindsight and see that I wanted to punish<br />

myself. I felt less than, like I had no value,” Someck says. “Food …<br />

food was bad.”<br />

She used extreme diets to mask her dysfunctional eating. She<br />

was macrobiotic for a while because it gave her an excuse to make<br />

small meals and avoid most readily available foods.<br />

Someck describes her routine as exhausting. She was moody,<br />

hungry, and lonely. She didn’t have the energy she needed to get<br />

through the day, but she was still running miles every day in order<br />

to lose even more weight.<br />

She doesn’t remember a last-straw or rock-bottom moment, but<br />

she remembers deciding that food is not bad. In the days that followed,<br />

her only goal was attempting to not purge or binge. The successful<br />

days stacked up, and eventually she knew her life had shifted.<br />

“I think I was in recovery for 20-some-odd years,” Someck says.<br />

“So now, all food is good.”<br />

Dancing in the Kitchen was her first cookbook in 2016. Her<br />

second is currently in the works. Most of the recipes are vegan,<br />

but she includes tips and suggestions about adding meat or eggs to<br />

certain recipes.<br />

“You have to listen to your body. I’m not going to tell anyone<br />

that they can’t or shouldn’t eat something,” Someck says.<br />

She describes herself as a flexitarian because she eats mainly<br />

vegetarian, but she no longer gets stuck on labels. If she<br />

orders soup and it turns out it was made with chicken broth, or if<br />

there’s birthday cake and everyone is celebrating, she doesn’t flip<br />

out or exclude herself. She says that if something doesn’t fit into<br />

what she normally eats and she wants to eat it, she does.<br />

“I can’t play those mind games. I won’t do it,” she says. “I choose<br />

food that makes me feel the best that I can be. That’s it.”<br />

Instagram<br />

@colleensomeck<br />

Go-to favorites<br />

Cooked beans and grains<br />

Seasonal vegetables<br />

Mock tuna<br />

Quinoa for soups<br />

and salads<br />

Favorite restaurants<br />

Lofty Coffee in<br />

Solana Beach<br />

Cucina Enoteca<br />

True Food Kitchen<br />

in La Jolla<br />

Nectarine Grove<br />

GOODONYA<br />

Organic Eatery<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 27


Instagram<br />

@onedopevegan_<br />

Branden Williams<br />

38, VEGAN<br />

“I like to say that I went cold tofurkey,” Branden Williams explains<br />

in a manner that sounds like a joke but implies that he’s dead<br />

serious. “Vegan and sober. Everything happened all at once.”<br />

He says that he looked in the mirror and knew that he could do<br />

better.<br />

“I was like, I’m not going out like this,” he says.<br />

He was 5’10” and 270 pounds. “I ate lots of food that came out<br />

of a box, I wasn’t active, and I didn’t know how to be myself without<br />

alcohol,” he says. If he was going out with friends to a concert,<br />

he’d drink before going out to loosen up. If he was home, he’d<br />

drink to relax. If he was out, he’d drink to enjoy himself.<br />

“One day, I realized that everything I was drinking and eating<br />

was making me feel bad,” Williams says.<br />

He went to the doctor to figure out why he was suffering from<br />

horrible migraines, irritability, and poor sleep. After lots of testing<br />

and a CAT scan, there was no clear diagnosis. No one told him to<br />

change his diet. He figured that out on his own.<br />

“I just thought, I’m already living in one extreme and it’s<br />

clearly not working for me, so why not try the reverse,” he says.<br />

Williams was also motivated by his aunt who had been following<br />

a vegan diet for more than 30 years. She was 62 years old<br />

and had none of the health complaints he was dealing with.<br />

“It saved my life. Really. I can’t imagine what I would be like if I<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

28 ediblesandiego.com


| FEATURE<br />

Favorite restaurants<br />

Loving Hut in Mira Mesa<br />

Donna Jean<br />

Evolution Fast Food<br />

Plant Power Fast Food<br />

Mission Square Market<br />

for the vegan deli<br />

Go-to salad<br />

Spinach leaves, diced<br />

bell peppers, diced<br />

black olives, diced red<br />

onions, diced tomatoes,<br />

avocado, kidney beans,<br />

and garbanzo beans with<br />

Annie’s Goddess dressing<br />

Go-to snack<br />

Lenny & Larry’s<br />

Complete Cookie<br />

hadn’t made that change,” Williams adds. Now, he says there is no<br />

going back. When he switched his diet, he also started going to the<br />

gym regularly to lift weights.<br />

“I didn’t know what I was doing the first three to four months<br />

but I kept going,” he says. The same was true of his new vegan<br />

diet, but he studied and gained expertise about vegan cooking,<br />

animal cruelty, and the physiology, psychology, and politics<br />

behind veganism.<br />

He’s now a personal trainer and he’s committed to being a<br />

lifelong vegan. His son and his fiancée are also vegans. When Williams<br />

and his fiancée first met, she was skeptical about vegan diets.<br />

“She was saying the same thing everyone else parrots: ‘I could<br />

never,’ ‘What about your protein?’ ‘Aren’t you hungry all the<br />

time?’ And I was like, damn, you’re cute but you just don’t get<br />

it,” he says. They didn’t talk again for months. When he saw her<br />

again, she looked different and her skin was glowing. She had<br />

switched to a vegan diet on her own.<br />

Williams says that his son saw the change in his dad and<br />

embraced vegan food without much resistance.<br />

“He could see me as an example. He saw the before and the<br />

after. He saw round, unhealthy, angry dad,” Williams says. He’s<br />

lost more than 80 pounds, although that’s not as important as<br />

how he feels.<br />

“I’m calmer. It has changed my overall mental and physical<br />

health,” he says. “But no one could have come to me the day<br />

before I started and forced me to be vegan. I had to be ready.<br />

So I don’t preach to anyone, I just live as an example. People<br />

will change when they are ready.”<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 29


FEATURE |<br />

Tony Cohen<br />

54, KETO DIET<br />

Tony Cohen, founder of the <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Keto Club, calls himself<br />

one of the first human guinea pigs for exogenous ketones.<br />

He received a FedEx package filled with two clear sandwich<br />

bags of white powder from a friend in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. There were<br />

instructions about how to pee on a ketone testing strip (a practice<br />

that is no longer in favor) and more instructions on what<br />

to eat and when.<br />

It says a lot about Cohen’s life at this time that he started<br />

ingesting the mystery substance without knowing much about<br />

how the keto diet worked. He was living in New York and he<br />

was broke. “I probably suffered from some type of depression,<br />

although I wouldn’t have said that at the time,” Cohen admits.<br />

He lived in a tiny studio above a pizza and ice cream parlor<br />

in Spanish Harlem with no natural light and was teaching Krav<br />

Maga, a relatively obscure mixed martial art, at the time. While<br />

he previously trained to be a chef in Northern Thailand, he<br />

didn’t have a kitchen, so most of his meals were of the typical<br />

New York commuter variety. He had a bacon, egg, and cheese<br />

bagel for breakfast, a slice or two of pizza in the afternoon,<br />

more pizza for dinner, and ice cream for dessert. Every day.<br />

“It was a downward spiral that I couldn’t work my way out<br />

of,” Cohen says. “So when that package came in the mail, I was<br />

ready to make a serious change.”<br />

He says that timing is everything. It also helped that he<br />

didn’t consider it to be a “diet”; it was more of an experiment.<br />

It wasn’t a fad yet, and Cohen, a born contrarian, seemed to<br />

embrace it.<br />

“When I started three years ago, people thought I was an<br />

idiot,” Cohen says.<br />

But it was the right diet—or should we say eating regimen—<br />

at the right time.<br />

“If you had told me to diet, I would have told you where to<br />

go,” Cohen says. “Gradually, I only had pizza and ice cream a<br />

few times a week instead of every day. Then I’d eat the pizza<br />

and skip the ice cream or eat the ice cream and skip the pizza,<br />

and then I just stopped eating them both altogether. But it<br />

didn’t happen overnight.”<br />

The keto diet consists of eliminating refined sugars and eating<br />

low carbohydrates with a proper balance of high-fat foods.<br />

Ketosis occurs when there isn’t enough glucose, the body’s primary<br />

fuel source, so the body starts to break down fat stores to<br />

produce energy. There’s a lot more to it, and taking exogenous<br />

ketones is entirely optional. Tony recommends starting with<br />

small changes, such as cutting down on processed food.<br />

“It can be really overwhelming. You have to do it in steps,”<br />

he says.<br />

Favorite restaurants<br />

Bare Back Grill in Pacific<br />

Beach for burgers<br />

Second Nature North<br />

Pacific Beach for clean<br />

steak and bacon<br />

Cívico 1845 in Little Italy<br />

for great cheese and<br />

salami plates<br />

Wheat and Water in Bird<br />

Rock for bulletproof<br />

coffee<br />

Shops<br />

Sprouts<br />

Little Italy Farmers’<br />

Market<br />

Treats<br />

Yez Foods, local keto<br />

bread and cookie<br />

company<br />

Dry Farms Wine<br />

Instagram<br />

@therealtonycohen<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

30 ediblesandiego.com


Instagram<br />

@steph_gaudreau<br />

Steph Gaudreau<br />

39, PALEO<br />

Steph Gaudreau thinks the “caveman diet” analogy is the worst<br />

thing to happen to Paleo dieters.<br />

“It’s a trope that has not done us any favors, but it’s an<br />

association that sticks,” she says. Even though it’s ridiculous to<br />

think that we can or should eat like a prehistoric human with a<br />

30-year lifespan, we can eat simpler food, she says. As famed food<br />

writer Michael Pollan would say, “Don’t eat anything your greatgrandmother<br />

wouldn’t recognize as food.”<br />

Even though the Paleo name hails from the Paleolithic<br />

era, she says that we shouldn’t pretend that the dietary needs<br />

of the modern human haven’t evolved since the Stone Age.<br />

Among other innovations, our crop-growing skills and cooking<br />

technology allow for a more appetizing and nutritionally<br />

balanced year-round diet. We can do better than caveman meals.<br />

“I’ve tried every diet under the sun and I always fell back into<br />

old habits,” Gaudreau explains. Starting the Paleo diet was incidental.<br />

In 2009, she was active in the mountain biking and racing<br />

community. She needed a way to fuel her body and she stumbled<br />

upon a way of eating that provided the fuel that increased her<br />

performance and satisfied her cravings.<br />

“For years, I had digestive problems and weird menstrual cycles.<br />

I was hangry and had sleep issues, and I thought, I guess that’s just<br />

how I am,” Gaudreau says. “But so much of that was governed by<br />

my diet and how I was eating.”<br />

When she started the Paleo diet, it was the first time she<br />

started a diet that wasn’t about losing weight. It made all the difference,<br />

she says.<br />

“People saw that I was changing, and I don’t just mean losing<br />

inches. I was different and thinking differently, and that’s what<br />

got me into starting the blog,” she says. At first, it was just recipes,<br />

but soon she was explaining what she could about her journey and<br />

how others might experiment with<br />

the diet for their own health.<br />

Go-to favorite foods<br />

Gaudreau went from teaching high<br />

Batch-cooked sweet<br />

school chemistry and biology to blogging<br />

full-time in 2012. The blog was<br />

Safe-Catch tuna<br />

potatoes<br />

how she met her husband, who was Homemade hummus<br />

living in Scotland at the time. They<br />

Go-to meal<br />

bonded over Paleo and racing, dated<br />

InstaPot beef stew<br />

long distance for a couple years, then<br />

married in 2014.<br />

“It’s great to have a partner who was already committed to<br />

Paleo,” Gaudreau says, but she’s really referring to conscientious<br />

eating.<br />

She says she understands that some people are really adamant<br />

about not eating meat and she assures them that she doesn’t<br />

want animals to suffer either. Ethical eating is a lot more difficult<br />

than eat this or don’t eat that.<br />

“I don’t think anyone has a simple answer, but I know that<br />

if we eat less meat, and better meat, we could support a more<br />

sustainable, ethical, and environmental process,” Gaudreau<br />

says. “There will always be death associated with the way we<br />

grow our food unless we start growing it in a lab, and that has<br />

its own ethical problems.”<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 31


FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS |<br />

BY BETH DEMMON<br />

Friends with Benefits<br />

Frank and Rick<br />

“M<br />

y family has always been in the dairy business. It’s a...<br />

different sort of business,” laughs Frank Konyn of<br />

Frank Konyn Dairy. Established in 1962 by his father, Konyn’s<br />

250-acre dairy farm is nestled on the <strong>San</strong> Pasqual Valley floor 35<br />

miles northeast of downtown <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. With over 800 cows, he<br />

estimates his monthly feed bill to be over a quarter of a million<br />

dollars. As land costs increased alongside agricultural regulations,<br />

Konyn realized that in order to survive, he’d have to diversify.<br />

“In California, you’ll find the same thing among most dairymen.<br />

It’s not a standalone business. Throughout the state, they<br />

grow almonds and walnuts, own real estate, maybe they do hay<br />

sales, etcetera. But for a standalone dairyman to survive is proving<br />

to be very difficult,” he explains.<br />

Even on farms, opportunities to turn wasteful liabilities into<br />

profitable assets are hard to come by, but as Konyn searched for<br />

a profitable new venture, he realized he was sitting on a veritable<br />

gold mine—or more accurately, a brown one.<br />

A dairy cow can eat over 100 pounds of food in a day and generates<br />

over six yards of manure per year. Cow manure happens<br />

to be very rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making<br />

it a perfect source for mixing rich compost for growing crops<br />

or flowers. In 2007, Konyn launched the dairy’s sister company<br />

<strong>San</strong> Pasqual Valley Soils to combine landscape trimmings with<br />

manure in order to provide greenhouse gas-reducing compost<br />

available for sale. It remains one of the only approved organic-use<br />

composting sites in the county.<br />

Rick Sarver, vice president of sales and operations at <strong>San</strong><br />

Pasqual Valley Soils, describes some of the unique challenges they<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

32 ediblesandiego.com


face as unfortunate. “Composting is a heavily regulated<br />

industry, and we’ve spent a lot of money on permitting,<br />

and spend a substantial amount annually on regulatory<br />

compliance. And the rules are getting more stringent.<br />

This dynamic makes it hard to make ends meet. Since<br />

composting and use of the end product actually reduces<br />

greenhouse gas emissions, we think the regulations should<br />

take that into account and soften up on activities that are<br />

moving our environmental goals in the right direction.”<br />

Despite these roadblocks, their compost ships to everyone<br />

from local landscapers to the Carlsbad flower fields<br />

and even California State University, <strong>San</strong> Marcos for use<br />

on the baseball field. Konyn also uses it on-site to help his<br />

alfalfa fields grow, generating an additional feed source for<br />

his cows in order to reduce his monthly expenses.<br />

The symbiotic benefits were immediate. “The compost<br />

site helps the dairy survive, and consumers get the benefit<br />

of microbially rich soil amendments as well as locally<br />

produced milk,” says Sarver.<br />

As the businesses grew, costs for transporting materials<br />

across the county grew right along with it. Thus, the third<br />

leg of the cooperation “organically” emerged in the form<br />

of KD Farms Trucking, Inc.<br />

“The trucking company started out as a pickup truck<br />

with a dump trailer. Now, we have a fleet of eight trucks,”<br />

says Konyn.<br />

Today, the trucks deliver their compost all over the<br />

region, but Konyn saw a greater opportunity. With no<br />

shortage of local beer being brewed in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, KD<br />

Farms Trucking, Inc. is now one of the biggest users and<br />

transporters of spent grain from local breweries. Konyn<br />

estimates they’ve grown from picking up two to three tons<br />

of grains at a time to over 250 tons per week (50 tons<br />

alone come from Karl Strauss).<br />

“[We] collect more than 1,500 tons per month of food<br />

waste, including spent brewery grains, bakery products,<br />

and pressed fruits and vegetables from juice manufacturers.<br />

All of these materials are diverted from landfills and<br />

converted into feed for the cows,” says Konyn.<br />

Sarver sees the relationship between the companies as<br />

“a win-win, but not without its costs, hard work, and<br />

diligence to bring to fruition.” He urges those interested<br />

in establishing the same type of dynamic to follow the<br />

proper channels in order for small operations to continue<br />

delivering consumer benefits.<br />

When it comes to benefits, Konyn acknowledges that<br />

CAFOs (confined animal feeding operations) concern<br />

animal welfare advocates, vegans, and environmentalists,<br />

but contends that diversifying his dairy operation enables<br />

him to produce milk while recycling food waste into animal<br />

feed —plus it produces soil-building compost. “We’re<br />

taking refuse from urban centers and converting it into<br />

feed for our animals. Those animals in turn create highprotein,<br />

human-consumable foods. By co-composting the<br />

manure with landscape trimmings, we create soil-building<br />

products. How can you create a more sustainable closedloop<br />

cycle than that?”<br />

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WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 33


34 ediblesandiego.com<br />

OLIVIA HAYO


| STAYCATION<br />

Getting Away<br />

at the<br />

Rancho Bernardo Inn<br />

BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />

We set off for the weekend with little more than a duffel<br />

bag and plans to relax away from the hustle of Little<br />

Italy. Heading north on the 15 freeway for only 30 minutes, our<br />

destination was the Rancho Bernardo Inn.<br />

I grew up in the lush suburb of Carmel Mountain Ranch,<br />

attending many special events at the Rancho Bernardo Inn over<br />

the years. One of my earliest memories is being a flower girl in<br />

a family wedding, tossing rose petals between olive and cypress<br />

trees. Returning to RB usually feels like going home—but this<br />

time it felt like getting away.<br />

Friday<br />

We arrived on Friday just in time for the farmers’ market at<br />

the 130-year-old Bernardo Winery. With coffees in hand from<br />

Manzanita Roasting Company, we wandered through the estate’s<br />

dozen shops and galleries before stopping into the tasting<br />

room for a few sips of wine.<br />

Back in the car we continued through the residential neighborhood<br />

until we reached the Rancho Bernardo Inn. Its Spanish roof<br />

and cream exterior standing out amongst rich greenery and terra<br />

cotta accents. The lobby is welcoming with warm earth tones,<br />

exposed beam ceilings, and a cozy fireside nook.<br />

The resort is part of a 265-acre property that includes 287<br />

rooms and suites, multiple dining options, a luxury spa, and<br />

an 18-hole championship golf course. Rooms are elegantly updated<br />

in cream and olive-green tones that make for a traditional<br />

Southern California take on Mediterranean style with patios<br />

and balconies overlooking the golf course and courtyards.<br />

We enjoyed glimpses of ivy-draped buildings through weeping<br />

willow branches, shimmering olive trees, and cypress tree<br />

spires on an evening stroll. The peaceful trickle of more than a<br />

dozen unique water features completed the distinctly Mediterranean<br />

atmosphere of the property.<br />

We followed one of the lantern-lit paths and arrived right<br />

on time for a dinner reservation at AVANT. A warm fireplace<br />

greeted us inside, along with a glowing sunset streaming in<br />

through the windows. The wraparound bar was filled with<br />

guests and locals chatting over cocktails, while others finished<br />

happy hour on the vibrant patio just beyond. Dark beams and<br />

wood paneling framed the dining room furnished with intimate<br />

booths, tables, and banquette seating, all tied together with<br />

Spanish iron accents.<br />

The drink menu offers New and Old World wines, hyper-local<br />

beers, and cocktails crafted with regional touches. Partial to<br />

gin, I ordered The Flying Dutchman, a refreshing combination<br />

with spicy ginger beer, tart pomegranate, and aromatic mint.<br />

We turned our attention to the dinner menu, organized by sea,<br />

garden, and land. The dishes can change daily for seasonality,<br />

with many ingredients sourced from the on-site chef’s garden.<br />

We enjoyed the salmon belly crudo served with creamy avocado,<br />

briny seaweed, and crunchy radish along with Dungeness<br />

crab elegantly wrapped in sheets of avocado and cucumber, and<br />

topped with crispy potato wafers. The Wagyu beef duo of petite<br />

tenderloin and braised brisket with roasted young squash and<br />

zucchini purée was a definite highlight of the evening. We considered<br />

whether we had room for dessert as live music played in<br />

the background and couldn’t resist the house-favorite cinnamon<br />

sugar doughnuts with Irish coffee affogato as the sweet end to<br />

our evening.<br />

Saturday<br />

We’d ordered room service the night before and woke up to take<br />

advantage of a lazy morning breakfast on the balcony and coffee in<br />

bed while making plans for the day. I was excited to be staying near<br />

my hometown where I could revisit some of my favorite places like<br />

the Blue Sky Reserve. We tackled the two-mile hike through live oak<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 35


trees and sagebrush, finishing just in time to stop for a quick lunch<br />

at Brothers Provisions. This artisan market and deli is part of the 3<br />

Local Brothers restaurant group, which started with RB favorites The<br />

Barrel Room and Urge Gastropub, just down the street.<br />

Back at the inn, we spent the afternoon lounging at the adultsonly<br />

pool, our noses in books and palm trees swaying above.<br />

As the sun set, we returned to our room to change for dinner.<br />

We began the evening with fireside drinks at Veranda, the patio<br />

lounge and restaurant on the property, before catching an Uber<br />

to our dinner reservation at The Cork and Craft. Located in an<br />

unassuming business park, this hidden gem cultivated by local<br />

talent shares space with urban winery Abnormal Wine Co. and<br />

craft brewery Abnormal Beer Co.<br />

Sunday<br />

We started the day with coffee in the room before heading back<br />

to Veranda for a patio brunch. While sipping on a fresh strawberry<br />

lavender lemonade, we decided to spend the day in the lush alcoves<br />

of the award-winning Rancho Bernardo Inn Spa. Its natural beauty<br />

was instantly therapeutic. Fragrant herbs, flowers, and fruits are<br />

freshly picked from the chef’s garden next door and used in spa<br />

treatments to create a truly grounding experience.<br />

We left feeling not only rejuvenated by our stay, but relieved that<br />

we can easily return—maybe even next weekend.<br />

OLIVIA HAYO<br />

36 ediblesandiego.com


SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION<br />

Neighborhood Dining Guide<br />

These restaurants are either locally owned, passionate about local sourcing, or both. Enjoy a delicious meal<br />

and make sure to tell our advertisers that <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sent you!<br />

NORTH COUNTY<br />

MISSION BEACH<br />

POINT LOMA<br />

A.R. VALENTIEN<br />

A.R. VALENTIEN<br />

11480 North Torrey Pines Rd., La Jolla<br />

858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien<br />

The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant,<br />

A.R. Valentien, highlights regional <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

cuisine served in an elegant, timbered indooroutdoor<br />

dining room overlooking the 18th hole<br />

of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff<br />

Jackson sources only the best local provisions,<br />

and the menu changes frequently based on<br />

seasonal fare available. The restaurant takes<br />

its name from a talented early-20th-century<br />

California artist whose works are exhibited<br />

throughout the restaurant.<br />

ESCOGELATO<br />

122 South Kalmia St., Escondido<br />

760-745-6500 • escogelato.com<br />

Located in the heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is<br />

made fresh daily using the highest quality ingredients<br />

and fresh fruit sourced from local farmers.<br />

The result is a luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s<br />

full of flavor. You will taste the difference. In addition<br />

to the main event, enjoy a nice selection of<br />

paninis, soups, salads, coffee, and tea.<br />

JUICE WAVE<br />

3733 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach<br />

858-488-0800 • juicewavesd.com<br />

What began as <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s first organic juice truck now has<br />

two happy homes in Miramar and Mission Beach. Still, their<br />

commitment rings true: “Refresh and nourish the soul by<br />

using the best quality farm-fresh ingredients from local farms<br />

that reflect the radiant growing season in Southern California.”<br />

Check out their creatively named cleanses, like Lettuce<br />

Love, Turnip The Beet, and Kalefornia.<br />

OCEANA COASTAL KITCHEN<br />

3999 Mission Blvd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

858-539-8635 • catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/<br />

oceana-san-diego-restaurant<br />

Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California cuisine<br />

and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana offers bayfront<br />

dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway. Executive<br />

chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of classic dishes<br />

highlight the purity and flavors of California local produce<br />

and a commitment to sustainable ingredients. A cold bar with<br />

sushi options, small bites, and main dishes includes the freshest<br />

seafood available from the coast of Baja and the Pacific.<br />

SOLARE<br />

2820 Roosevelt Rd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com<br />

Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special<br />

focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made<br />

with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern<br />

and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy<br />

dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your<br />

meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or<br />

30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the<br />

cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to<br />

detail from generations past.<br />

DOWNTOWN / LITTLE ITALY<br />

Bivouac Ciderworks<br />

3986 30th St., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

619-725-0844 • bivouaccider.com<br />

As a center for experimentation and<br />

camaraderie, Bivouac Ciderworks<br />

is a welcome home for active, creative,<br />

and outdoorsy cider and food<br />

enthusiasts alike. Their goal is to inspire curiosity and<br />

foster a passion for what craft cider brings to the table.<br />

The outdoor-inspired tasting room, right in the heart of<br />

North Park, features a full menu of food options. Don’t<br />

miss the Impossible Burger, award-winning tuna poke,<br />

and vegan jackfruit sliders.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 37


LOCAL ATTRACTIONS |<br />

BY JONI PARMER<br />

CHECK THIS OUT<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Children’s<br />

Discovery Museum<br />

Remember watching Mrs. Frizzle<br />

on The Magic School Bus on Saturday<br />

mornings? This children’s museum is<br />

the magic school bus in living color,<br />

bringing scholastic entertainment<br />

to life with endless interactive<br />

opportunities for your kiddos to<br />

explore. With the massive Magnetic<br />

Ball Wall and Magnification Station<br />

to Farm Animal Friday and the<br />

museum's Nature Make & Take<br />

projects, you will be begging your<br />

toddler to head to Escondido for an<br />

educational adventure.<br />

Check the museum’s calendar for<br />

daily programs—and my favorite,<br />

World Culture Wednesdays—to travel<br />

the globe through fun stories, art, and<br />

engineering.<br />

General admission $8/person<br />

IN SEASON<br />

California Spiny<br />

Lobster<br />

California spiny lobster season runs<br />

October–March, but crustacean lovers<br />

throughout the states are hard-pressed<br />

to find this elusive favorite due to a<br />

high demand and price tag in overseas<br />

markets. Sweeter than their East Coast<br />

counterparts, these pincer-free bugs are<br />

soft in texture and delicate in flavor,<br />

allowing culinary creatives to go wild<br />

in the kitchen. Try yours at Mitch’s<br />

Seafood or get to the market early to<br />

take one home from Tuna Harbor<br />

Dockside Market. Both <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />

establishments make a point of selling<br />

locally harvested seafood. Adventurous<br />

types can throw on<br />

some diving fins and<br />

try catching their<br />

own. It’s far more<br />

complicated than<br />

that, so beginners<br />

should do some<br />

research and<br />

find a buddy.<br />

Events<br />

JANUARY<br />

Every Saturday, 8am–1pm, rain or<br />

shine, visit the Tuna Harbor Dockside<br />

Market and get the freshest<br />

selection of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> seafood<br />

direct from <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> fishermen.<br />

» thedocksidemarket.com<br />

Get an anniversary Teku glass and<br />

sample rare beers at the third<br />

anniversary party at Pure Project<br />

Brewing on Jan. 12 from 1–5pm.<br />

» purebrewing.org<br />

Farm to Fork <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> presents<br />

Local Libations Week, starting Jan.<br />

13 with the third annual BIGA Hog<br />

Roast. Deals at participating<br />

restaurants run through Jan. 19.<br />

» farmtoforksd.com<br />

<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Restaurant Week<br />

features specials from over 180<br />

participating restaurants for eight<br />

tantalizing days from Jan. 20–27.<br />

» sandiegorestaurantweek.com<br />

FEBRUARY<br />

Random Acts of Kindness Week<br />

is the third week of February, and<br />

we will be sharing ideas for you to<br />

spread kindness early in the month<br />

at ediblesandiego.com.<br />

Learn how to grow your farmers’<br />

market business at the InTents<br />

Conference reconvening for its third<br />

annual year Feb. 24–26.<br />

» intentsconference.com<br />

Farm school at Wild Willow Farm<br />

will offer a series of three classes on<br />

holistic winter orchard care taught by<br />

Paul Maschka Feb. 12, 19, and 26.<br />

» sandiegoroots.org<br />

38 ediblesandiego.com


Farmers’ Markets<br />

Monday<br />

Escondido—Welk Resort †<br />

8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

760-651-3630<br />

Tuesday<br />

Coronado<br />

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing<br />

2:30–6pm<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Escondido *<br />

Heritage Garden Park<br />

Juniper btwn Grand & Valley Pkwy.<br />

2:30–6pm<br />

760-480-4101<br />

Mira Mesa *<br />

10510 Reagan Rd.<br />

2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista<br />

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.<br />

4–8pm (3–7pm winter)<br />

619-279-0032<br />

Pacific Beach Tuesday *†<br />

Bayard & Garnet<br />

2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter)<br />

619-233-3901<br />

UCSD Town Square<br />

UCSD Campus, Town Square<br />

10am–2pm, Sept to June<br />

858-534-4248<br />

Vail Headquarters *<br />

32115 Temecula Pkwy.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Wednesday<br />

Grantville<br />

4647 Zion Ave.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

619-550-7180<br />

Little Italy Wednesday *†<br />

501 W. Date St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

619-233-5009<br />

Ocean Beach<br />

4900 block of Newport Ave.<br />

4–7pm (4–8pm summer)<br />

619-279-0032<br />

People’s Produce Night Market *†<br />

1655 Euclid Ave.<br />

5–8pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

<strong>San</strong>tee *†<br />

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.<br />

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)<br />

619-449-8427<br />

State Street in Carlsbad Village<br />

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.<br />

3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Temecula—Promenade *<br />

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Thursday<br />

Lemon Grove<br />

2885 Lemon Grove Ave.<br />

3–7pm<br />

619-813-9148<br />

Linda Vista *†<br />

6900 Linda Vista Rd.<br />

3–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />

760-504-4363<br />

North Park Thursday *†<br />

North Park Way & 30th St.<br />

3–7:30pm, year-round<br />

619-550-7180<br />

Oceanside Morning *<br />

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-791-3241<br />

Rancho Bernardo<br />

16535 Via Esprillo<br />

btwn Via Fontero & Via del Campo<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-279-0032<br />

SDSU<br />

Campanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall<br />

& Love Library<br />

10am–3pm, Sept to June<br />

www.clube3.org<br />

Sleeves Up Horton Plaza<br />

199 Horton Plaza<br />

10am–2pm<br />

619-481-4959<br />

Valley Center<br />

28246 Lilac Rd.<br />

3–7pm (2–6pm, Nov to Mar)<br />

vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail.com<br />

Friday<br />

Borrego Springs<br />

Christmas Circle Community Park<br />

7am–noon, Oct to May<br />

760-767-5555<br />

Horton Plaza †<br />

225 Broadway Circle<br />

11am–2pm<br />

619-795-3363<br />

Imperial Beach *†<br />

Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza<br />

2–7pm, Oct to Mar<br />

2–7:30pm, Apr to Sept<br />

info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org<br />

La Mesa Village *<br />

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & Allison<br />

3–7pm, year-round<br />

619-550-7180<br />

Mission Valley *† NEW!<br />

Civita Park<br />

7960 Civita Blvd.<br />

3–7pm<br />

760-504-4363<br />

Rancho Bernardo Winery<br />

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-500-1709<br />

Saturday<br />

City Heights *†!<br />

On Wightman St. btwn Fairmount &<br />

43rd St.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-580-0116<br />

Del Mar<br />

1050 Camino Del Mar<br />

1–4pm<br />

858-465-0013<br />

Kearny Mesa NEW!<br />

8725 Ariva Ct.<br />

9:30am–1:30pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Little Italy Mercato *†<br />

600 W. Date St.<br />

8am–2pm<br />

619-233-3901<br />

Pacific Beach<br />

4150 Mission Blvd.<br />

8am–noon<br />

760-741-3763<br />

Poway *<br />

Old Poway Park<br />

14134 Midland Rd. at Temple<br />

8am–1pm<br />

619-249-9395<br />

Rancho Penasquitos YMCA<br />

9400 Fairgrove Lane &<br />

Salmon River Rd.<br />

9am–1pm<br />

858-484-8788<br />

Temecula—Old Town *<br />

Sixth & Front St., Old Town<br />

8am–12:30pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

Vista *†<br />

325 Melrose Dr., South of Hwy 78<br />

8am–1pm<br />

760-945-7425<br />

Sunday<br />

Allied Gardens Sunday<br />

Lewis Middle School<br />

5170 GreenBrier Ave.<br />

10am–2pm<br />

858-568-6291, 619-865-6574<br />

Hillcrest *<br />

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.<br />

9am–2pm<br />

619-237-1632<br />

La Jolla Open Aire<br />

Girard Ave. & Genter<br />

9am–1:30pm<br />

858-454-1699<br />

Leucadia *<br />

185 Union St. & Vulcan St.<br />

10am–2pm<br />

858-272-7054<br />

Murrieta *<br />

Village Walk Plaza<br />

I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia<br />

9am–1pm<br />

760-728-7343<br />

North <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> / Sikes Adobe †<br />

12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido<br />

10:30am–3:30pm, year-round<br />

858-735-5311<br />

Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta Fe Del Rayo Village<br />

16079 <strong>San</strong> Dieguito Rd.<br />

9:30am–2pm<br />

619-743-4263<br />

<strong>San</strong>ta Ysabel<br />

Hwy 78 & 79<br />

21887 Washington St.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

760-782-9202<br />

Solana Beach<br />

410 to 444 South Cedros Ave.<br />

Noon–4pm<br />

858-755-0444<br />

* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)<br />

† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)<br />

! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC<br />

Fruit and Vegetable Checks.<br />

All <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds @ City are<br />

certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner.<br />

Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete<br />

information and links to farmers’ market websites.<br />

WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 39


PREP |<br />

BY MARIA HESSE<br />

How to<br />

Conquer<br />

the<br />

Spaghetti<br />

Squash<br />

Tempted by the Pinterest-pretty<br />

carb-free pictures of roasted halves of<br />

spaghetti squash (Curcurbita pepo) forked<br />

into appetizing strings that look like guiltless<br />

spaghetti, you start by following blog<br />

directions that insist “it’s so simple” and<br />

preheat your oven to 350°.<br />

To prep the squash, you proceed to<br />

cut the squash in half—or, at least try<br />

to cut the squash in half. In 10 minutes’<br />

time, your heart rate is up and you’ve<br />

nearly missed severing three fingers.<br />

There’s nothing in that blog about what<br />

to do if cutting a spaghetti squash open<br />

is like sawing through concrete with your<br />

bare hands, but you got this. About 40<br />

minutes later, that sucker is halved, seeds<br />

removed, set on a baking sheet, rubbed<br />

down with extra-virgin olive oil, and salt<br />

and peppered. You’re panting, but it’s<br />

ready to go in the oven.<br />

The timer is set for 30 minutes and<br />

now you wait, hanxious (hungry and<br />

anxious) for your hard work to deliver a<br />

golden roasted pasta substitute packed<br />

with potassium and beta-carotene. The<br />

timer goes off and you pull the sheet pan<br />

out of the oven and start at the squash<br />

with a fork. But nothing’s happening. It’s<br />

not turning into pasta like magic because<br />

it looks raw, no golden brown roasting<br />

marks in sight. You put it back in the<br />

oven and set the timer for 15 minutes.<br />

Blast, it’s still raw—and looking a little<br />

dry. You burn your hand adding a little<br />

more olive oil and it goes back in the<br />

oven. You sit intensely in front of the<br />

window watching for this thing to turn<br />

perfect like it’s your final bake. Another<br />

45 minutes and it’s ready, but you’re not<br />

hungry because you snacked on a pack<br />

of cookies and ate all the chips with salsa<br />

during that extra hour.<br />

Next time, conquer the spaghetti<br />

squash by preheating your oven to 425°.<br />

Rinse under cool water and dry the entire<br />

squash to remove any dirt and debris.<br />

Pierce the skin four times with a fork<br />

and toss the squash into the oven on a<br />

cookie sheet. That’s right, you’re baking<br />

it whole. Bake smaller squash for about<br />

40 minutes, up to an hour for a larger<br />

squash, and flip the squash over halfway<br />

through cook time for even baking. You<br />

can tell it’s done when the squash feels<br />

soft under the push of a wooden spoon.<br />

Remove and cool the squash enough to<br />

handle with a hot pad or glove, about 5 to<br />

10 minutes. Effortlessly slip a chef’s knife<br />

right through the center, end to end, and<br />

stand back to let it steam once it’s opened.<br />

Use a metal spoon to easily scoop out the<br />

seeds, and pull with a fork to separate the<br />

squash into al dente strands. No handsawing<br />

required.<br />

Toss the squash with a little salt, pepper,<br />

grated romano, and olive oil to serve<br />

cacio e pepe style, or incorporate into<br />

another favorite pasta recipe.<br />

40 ediblesandiego.com


WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 3


4 ediblesandiego.com

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