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Explore the flavors of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County<br />
NO. 51 • WINTER <strong>2019</strong><br />
EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM<br />
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />
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WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 1
<strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2019</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
4 Publisher’s Note<br />
LIVING LOCAL<br />
8 Hot Dish, Liquid Assets,<br />
Feeding Our Souls, Let’s<br />
Grow, Bookshelf<br />
EAT WELL<br />
12 How to Pack a Bowl<br />
15 Five Ways to Cook with<br />
Kumquats<br />
16 Shrub Tonics<br />
GROW GOOD<br />
18 Starting a Raised<br />
Bed Garden<br />
20 Lemon Grove Builds a<br />
Community Garden<br />
FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS<br />
32 Frank and Rick<br />
STAYCATION<br />
34 Getting Away at the<br />
Rancho Bernardo Inn<br />
38 Local Attractions<br />
39 Farmers’ Markets<br />
FEATURES<br />
Opinion:<br />
Who Cares<br />
About<br />
Farm-to-Table?<br />
PAGE 23<br />
Food to<br />
the Rescue<br />
PAGE 24<br />
ON THE COVER: A toast to the New<br />
Year with gleaned and honeyed<br />
kumquats, ricotta, and levain.<br />
PREP<br />
40 How to Conquer the<br />
Spaghetti Squash<br />
Aren’t these Clay<br />
+ Craft bowls and<br />
blates lovely? See<br />
more on page 9.<br />
2 ediblesandiego.com
Healthy Diet, Healthy Living<br />
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4662 30TH ST. SAN DIEGO, CA 92116<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 3
PUBLISHER’S NOTE |<br />
HERE WE ARE ON THE EDGE<br />
OF THE PACIFIC AND LA FRONTERA,<br />
WHERE THE MOST SMALL ORGANIC FARMS<br />
OF ANY U.S. COUNTY<br />
MINGLE WITH 21ST-CENTURY URBAN LIVING.<br />
10 YEARS OF LEADING THE WAY<br />
ON WHY LOCAL MATTERS<br />
IN TODAY’S GLOBALIZED WORLD.<br />
LOCAL FOOD,<br />
LOCAL DRINK,<br />
AND LOCAL YOU.<br />
4 ediblesandiego.com
| PUBLISHER’S NOTE<br />
We are a small, virtually operated company in<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County, woman-owned.<br />
Networked with other <strong>Edible</strong> publishers and our<br />
parent company, we are entirely on our own as a<br />
business, hustling in the gig economy.<br />
Our reason for existing, pure and simple, is our<br />
commitment to local, <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>-style.<br />
While some dismiss the notion or use it loosely,<br />
local is our 24/7/52 mission.<br />
We are here to tell the stories that must be<br />
told because they make all the difference<br />
in the world. Our blend of journalism and<br />
storytelling brings people together in new<br />
ways when business as usual isn’t an option<br />
anymore. We’ve all got high stakes.<br />
Whether you’ve come to <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
to relax, explore, DIY, or represent your business,<br />
we’re here with what you need to connect.<br />
Welcome to our Conscious Living issue! We’re<br />
setting a lively table and stepping boldly into <strong>2019</strong><br />
to make some regenerative waves.<br />
Wanna surf with us?<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
Head Honcho<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
P.S. The format for this piece was inspired by one of my<br />
favorite companies, Title Nine. Missy Park, I hope you<br />
interpret this imitation as the flattery it’s intended to be.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 5
REFRESH<br />
edible Communities<br />
2011 James Beard Foundation<br />
Publication of the Year<br />
Only the freshest organic fruits and vegetables,<br />
local when possible, in our juice bar. No fillers.<br />
No ice. Straight up organic fruits and veggies...<br />
the way it should be!<br />
MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES<br />
lOCATIONS<br />
CARMEL VALLEY<br />
Del Mar Highlands Town Center<br />
12853 El Camino Real; (858) 793-7755<br />
ESCONDIDO<br />
Felicita Junction Shopping Center<br />
1633 S. Centre City Parkway; (760) 489-7755<br />
CARLSBAD<br />
The Forum<br />
1923 Calle Barcelona; (760) 334-7755<br />
4S RANCH<br />
4S Commons Town Center<br />
10511 4S Commons Drive; (858) 432-7755<br />
DOWNTOWN SAN DIEGO<br />
Horton Plaza<br />
92 Horton Plaza; (619) 308-7755<br />
WWW.JIMBOS.COM<br />
EDITORIAL<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
Editor in Chief<br />
Maria Hesse<br />
Managing Editor<br />
Felicia Campbell<br />
Executive Digital Editor<br />
Olivia Hayo<br />
Associate Editor<br />
Dawn Mobley<br />
Copy Editor<br />
Nan Sterman<br />
Gardening Editor at Large<br />
DESIGN TEAM<br />
Allie Wist<br />
Designer<br />
Olivia Hayo<br />
Lead Photographer<br />
Joni Parmer<br />
Contributing Stylist<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
Katie Stokes<br />
SALES & MARKETING<br />
Scott White<br />
Buisiness Development<br />
Executive<br />
Cass Husted<br />
Marketing<br />
John Vawter<br />
Sales Rep<br />
@ediblesd<br />
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@ediblesandiego<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
For more information about rates and deadlines, contact<br />
info@ediblesandiego.com 619-756-7292<br />
No part of this publication may be used without written permission<br />
from the publisher. © <strong>2019</strong> All rights reserved.<br />
Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If<br />
an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our<br />
sincere apologies. Thank you.<br />
COVER PHOTO BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
CONTACT<br />
<strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
P.O. Box 83549 • <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, CA 92138<br />
619-756-7292 • info@ediblesandiego.com • ediblesandiego.com<br />
6 ediblesandiego.com
Mission Beach<br />
3733 Mission Blvd.<br />
Open Everyday 8am-3pm<br />
Cold Pressed Juices,<br />
Hand-Crafted Smoothies,<br />
Acai Bowls & Salads<br />
@JuiceWaveSD<br />
Organic Ingredients,<br />
Locally Sourced,<br />
Vegan, Gluten-Free<br />
www.JuiceWaveSD.com<br />
san diego seed company<br />
sow-grow-eat-repeat<br />
REGIONALLY ADAPTED<br />
& SEASONALLY SELECTED SEEDS<br />
LOCAL<br />
NON-GMO<br />
HEIRLOOM<br />
sandiegoseedcompany.com<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 7
LIVING LOCAL |<br />
Liquid Assets<br />
Hot Dish<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
Delectable dishes you can<br />
only find on Adams Ave.<br />
Adams Avenue has long been touted as<br />
one of the best food streets in the city,<br />
but here we take a look at truly unique<br />
dishes showcasing local ingredients<br />
and our food community.<br />
Giddyup and make your day that much<br />
brighter by putting the Jimmy Pesto<br />
in your mouth. Hawthorn Coffee starts<br />
this beautiful toast off with a slice of<br />
rustic sourdough from Bread and Cie (a<br />
gluten-free toast option from Coronado’s<br />
Gluten Free Pantry is available) and<br />
tops it with a generous layer of locally<br />
made spicy pesto from Baby Clydesdale<br />
and crumbles of almond ricotta and<br />
blistered tomatoes. 3019 Adams Ave. •<br />
hawthorncoffee.com<br />
If eating one of the ultimate original<br />
pizzas in this city is your thing, look<br />
no further than Blind Lady Ale House.<br />
They made this list for always having<br />
a local, farm-fresh pizza special on the<br />
menu, plus that Mountain Meadows<br />
mushroom pizza, and an enticing<br />
regional beer selection that includes<br />
house brews from Automatic Brewing<br />
Co. We also like them for being<br />
Agents of Change by donating 20% of<br />
meatless Monday pizza sales to local<br />
nonprofit organizations. 3416 Adams<br />
Ave. • blindladyalehouse.com<br />
Go for the sauce at Bleu Bohème with<br />
a steaming pot of les moules frites<br />
au harissa. The classic menu item<br />
was created by executive chef and<br />
owner Ken Irvine. “Harissa paste is<br />
a combination of chiles balanced for<br />
flavor, not heat, and adds depth and<br />
complexity to seafood,” says <strong>Diego</strong> Paul<br />
Lopez, Bleu Bohème’s chef de cuisine.<br />
He sautés Spanish chorizo in garlic,<br />
shallots, and a white wine-harissa demi<br />
glace with black Mediterranean mussels<br />
from the Pacific Ocean and serves them<br />
with hot and crispy Bleu pomme frites.<br />
4090 Adams Ave. • bleuboheme.com<br />
If you haven’t seen what a good fluff<br />
and fold can do to gelato, we suggest a<br />
freshly made waffle cone full of Yarn at<br />
An’s Dry Cleaning. What used to be a dry<br />
cleaning shop on Adams Ave is now the<br />
storefront for a small-batch gelateria that<br />
features off-the-cuff fresh and original<br />
flavors with seasonal ingredients and<br />
a perfect balance of sweetness. We’ve<br />
got the scoop on this winter special<br />
showcasing the bright citrus flavor of<br />
kumquats with honey and tajin. 3017<br />
Adams Ave. • adcgelato.com<br />
BY JONI PARMER<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> blues got ya down? Who are we<br />
kidding, it’s <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, so whether the<br />
sun is shining or we justify donning a<br />
Patagonia on those dreary 65° days, craft<br />
cocktail seekers can head straight to<br />
You and Yours for the urban distillery’s<br />
Rye Me a River. The wintry blend of<br />
spice, pine, and citrus spirits is equally<br />
as swank as their feminine tasting room<br />
interior. youandyours.com<br />
Take one sip of Communal Coffee’s<br />
calming Lavender Honey Latte and<br />
discover a new form of stress relief.<br />
Mildly sweetened with clover honey,<br />
the pleasing taste of their housemade<br />
lavender syrup shines in this soulwarming<br />
rendition of a coffeehouse<br />
classic. For the creamiest combo, get it<br />
steamed with Communal’s scratch oat<br />
milk. communalcoffee.com<br />
Nestled in the heart of South Park, this<br />
cozy gem serves up a rotating selection<br />
of natural vinos from organically farmed<br />
wineries around the globe. Uncork the<br />
Zorah Karasi from Armenia, a mediumbodied<br />
red made from indigenous yeast,<br />
a rare practice that yields a unique<br />
complexity of aromas and texture.<br />
The fruity notes piled on a smoky<br />
undertone pair well with their handmade<br />
empanadas.<br />
Join their <strong>Winter</strong> Wine Club for first<br />
dibs on exclusive releases and meet the<br />
makers behind your favorite labels.<br />
therosewinebar.com<br />
8 ediblesandiego.com
| LIVING LOCAL<br />
Feeding Our Souls<br />
BY JONI PARMER<br />
FEELING GOOD<br />
Something might be in the water with so<br />
many SoCal pregnant mommas, myself<br />
included. Do your body and budding spud<br />
an invigorating favor and head to OH! Juice<br />
for the OH! Baby Superfood & Juice<br />
Cleanse, a 100% organic, locally driven,<br />
plant-inspired custom cleanse. Begin by<br />
customizing flavor profiles and health goals,<br />
and leave with a day, week, or even onemonth<br />
spread of the freshest juices, proteinpacked<br />
mylks, elixirs, and vegan-inspired<br />
meals to fuel your nine-month marathon.<br />
Available for pickup, local delivery, and airmail.<br />
Starting at $75/day • ohjuicecleanse.com<br />
LOOKING GOOD<br />
Just when you thought CBD couldn’t get<br />
more creative than cannabis-infused edibles<br />
and hempy beers, Kearny Mesa’s Kb Pure<br />
Essentials launched an entire business of allnatural<br />
wellness and beauty products formulated<br />
with the mega healing properties of the<br />
once-forbidden extract. A blend of essential<br />
oils, minerals, natural butters, and their most<br />
concentrated dose of CBD, Kb’s Eye Renewal<br />
Cream is the topical cream your fine lines and<br />
wrinkles have been dreaming of!<br />
$35 • kbpureessentials.com<br />
AND READY TO EAT<br />
Sip, nosh, and cozy up with this designmeets-function<br />
Mug & Wood Plate set<br />
from Clay + Craft, the slow-made ceramic<br />
artisan behind a coveted line of minimalistinspired<br />
dinnerware and home decor. Perfect<br />
to give or receive yourself, the creamy<br />
stoneware mug is purposely designed for you<br />
to feel the warmth of whatever you are drinking<br />
and comes with a natural birch plate<br />
(from local woodworker Grace & Salt) that<br />
holds the sweet or savory key to your heart’s<br />
desire—at least for that moment.<br />
$60 • clayandcraft.com<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 9
Fresh & Local<br />
Seafood<br />
OPEN MON & TUES 8AM-3PM<br />
WED–SUN 8AM–5PM<br />
Fish Market | Food Demos |<br />
Special Events<br />
Committed to sourcing better seafood<br />
choices from responsible fisheries or farms.<br />
5202 Lovelock St., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> 92110<br />
619-297-9797 | www.catalinaop.com<br />
Gelato, Coffee & Panini<br />
Housemade<br />
Small Batch Gelato<br />
escogelato.com<br />
Downtown Escondido<br />
Featuring local produce from our community.<br />
10 ediblesandiego.com
| LIVING LOCAL<br />
Let’s Grow<br />
BY JONI PARMER<br />
KOHLRABI<br />
Brassica oleracea gongylodes.<br />
Ya got that? Good, because you<br />
don’t want to miss this fiber-rich<br />
member of the cabbage family<br />
during the winter months. The<br />
German term for “cabbage turnip,”<br />
this recently revived root is making<br />
impressive cameos at farmers’<br />
markets, in home kitchens, and on<br />
the menu of some of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s<br />
best restaurants. Shaved, pickled,<br />
roasted, sautéed or puréed, Kohlrabi<br />
is crunchy, juicy, and mildly<br />
sweet. The vegetable is a blank<br />
canvas ready to receive almost any<br />
flavor, and you can eat the stem, the<br />
bulb, and the leaves. The best news?<br />
Kohlrabi is easy to grow! Luke<br />
Girling of Cyclops Farms recommends<br />
starting your plants indoors<br />
about four to six weeks before you<br />
plant outside. The Eder variety<br />
matures fast, so eager growers can<br />
harvest when the first stem is one<br />
inch in diameter, yielding a young<br />
and tender crop begging to be devoured<br />
straight from the ground.<br />
Quick-Pickled Kohlrabi<br />
Recipe by Davin Waite of Wrench &<br />
Rodent Seabasstropub<br />
2 kohlrabi bulbs<br />
½ cup apple cider vinegar<br />
½ cup white vinegar<br />
½ cup water<br />
1 cup sugar<br />
1 tablespoon pickling spice<br />
Pinch salt<br />
Peel the kohlrabi bulbs, chop off the<br />
stems and leaves (stems and leaves can<br />
be saved for kraut or a stir-fry; peels<br />
can be saved for broth), and thinly shave<br />
root on mandolin or slice very thin with<br />
a knife.<br />
Heat vinegars, water, sugar, and spice<br />
in a small saucepan and stir until sugar<br />
dissolves. Bring to a boil, then remove<br />
from heat; add kohlrabi. Transfer to a<br />
pickling jar and let sit for 2 hours before<br />
refrigerating. The pickles are ready to<br />
eat once they’ve been fully chilled, 2 to 3<br />
hours or overnight.<br />
Where to Buy<br />
Pick up seeds to grow your own<br />
kohlrabi at Seabreeze Family Farm, or<br />
visit Cyclops Farms for a list of farmers’<br />
markets and restaurants featuring our<br />
new favorite crop! seabasstropub.com,<br />
seabreezed.com, cyclopsfarms.com<br />
<strong>Edible</strong> Bookshelf<br />
It’s time for a blanket and a mug of something warm.<br />
Here’s a couple books to feed our minds with this winter.<br />
Shine<br />
La Jolla resident Sylvie Coulange<br />
self-published a cookbook that shares<br />
simple and inspiring recipes, including<br />
Power Bliss Balls that will make you,<br />
you know, shine. You can find it at<br />
local retailers like Native Poppy in<br />
North Park and Timeless Furnishings<br />
in Solana Beach. Find more locations<br />
to buy and the recipe for Power Bliss<br />
Balls on ediblesandiego.com.<br />
Community Table:<br />
Recipes for an Ecological<br />
Food Future<br />
The Ecology Center documents<br />
the curation of a series of<br />
dining experiences in 2016.<br />
Committed to their 10 principles<br />
of a regenerative food system,<br />
chefs and farmers share stories<br />
and recipes from farm to plate.<br />
Powerhouse Books, 2018<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 11
How to<br />
Pack a Bowl<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
It is said that Buddha carried a bowl from village to village,<br />
collecting small offerings of food along the way. At the end of<br />
the day, he would eat his meal, enjoying a variety of flavors that<br />
ceremoniously blended together. No wonder the legend inspired<br />
the trendy name craze for satisfying go-to meals.<br />
It doesn’t have to be a Buddha bowl or a power bowl to be delicious.<br />
Just pack a bowl with some basics for a healthy one-dish<br />
breakfast, lunch, or dinner.<br />
Start with grains for the base<br />
Here, we have steel-cut oats but use what you’ve got. Other<br />
suitable grain bases include rice, quinoa, pasta, and even veggie<br />
noodles to satisfy low-carb diets.<br />
Add fresh veggies<br />
This bowl is packed with greens, including arugula, and<br />
avocado for some of that healthy fat. We thinly sliced radish<br />
to add a little extra spice—but mostly to make this bowl look<br />
pretty with those splashes of fuschia. You can try any other<br />
fresh veggies you have on hand.<br />
A little protein<br />
Try the fried egg or go for toasted chickpeas to keep it vegan.<br />
Seafood or some cubed-up leftover chicken, beef, or any protein<br />
will also do just fine.<br />
Some sprinklings<br />
Sprinklings like the everything bagel spice mix, which also happens<br />
to go with everything, add extra nuttiness, crunch, texture,<br />
protein, and flavor. You can also sprinkle with sunflower seeds,<br />
hemp seeds, sesame seeds, other chopped nuts, and more.<br />
And Special Sauce<br />
What’s a bowl without a little dressing? It can be as simple as a<br />
little extra-virgin olive oil and lemon, or a quick take on a nut<br />
butter dressing like this one here.<br />
Wait, what kind of bowl did you think we were packing?<br />
Find more nutritionally packed bowl recipes from Bastyr University students<br />
on ediblesandiego.com.<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
12 ediblesandiego.com
Breakfast for Dinner<br />
SERVES 1<br />
More like breakfast all day<br />
long, this bowl is so simple<br />
and satisfying you’ll want to<br />
reinvent it for every meal.<br />
Oats for grain, egg for protein,<br />
leafy greens, avocado, radish,<br />
and scallions all topped with<br />
a tantalizing OJ drizzle pack a<br />
delicious, nutritional punch.<br />
Short on time to make steel-cut<br />
oats? Use rolled oats instead,<br />
or just reheat plain oatmeal<br />
left over from breakfast. Enjoy<br />
with a mimosa.<br />
OATMEAL<br />
½ cup steel-cut oats<br />
2 cups vegetable broth or<br />
water<br />
Pinch salt<br />
OJ DRIZZLE<br />
¼ cup orange juice<br />
1 tablespoon almond butter<br />
1 tablespoon tamari or soy<br />
sauce<br />
2 dashes hot sauce (plus more<br />
to taste)<br />
Salt and pepper to taste<br />
EGG<br />
½ teaspoon olive oil<br />
1 egg<br />
Pinch salt<br />
¼ cup water<br />
TOPPINGS<br />
1 handful fresh leafy greens<br />
1 radish, thinly sliced<br />
½ avocado, sliced<br />
1 scallion, finely chopped<br />
Everything bagel spice mix<br />
to taste<br />
Make the oatmeal: In a small<br />
saucepan, add oats, broth, and<br />
salt and bring to a boil. Turn<br />
heat down and simmer until the<br />
oats soften, about 20 minutes.<br />
Make the OJ drizzle: In a<br />
small bowl, whisk together all<br />
ingredients with a fork until<br />
combined. Adjust hot sauce,<br />
salt, and pepper to taste.<br />
Make the egg: Heat olive oil<br />
in a frying pan with a lid over<br />
medium-high heat. Add the<br />
egg, sprinkle with salt, and<br />
cook until egg white turns<br />
opaque. Add water and cover<br />
pan; turn heat to low and<br />
cook until the whole egg turns<br />
opaque, about 1 minute.<br />
To serve: In a bowl, layer oatmeal,<br />
greens, radish, egg,<br />
avocado, and scallions. Top<br />
with OJ drizzle and finish with<br />
a generous sprinkle of everything<br />
bagel spice mix.<br />
Recipe by Fernanda Larson,<br />
MS, CN, Assistant Professor,<br />
Bastyr University<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 13
See what’s growing this season!<br />
Thursdays at 8:30 pm & Saturdays at 3:30 pm<br />
Stream online anytime<br />
@ agrowingpassion.com<br />
COMMENT<br />
INSPIRE<br />
WATCH<br />
Live Music<br />
Artisan Food<br />
Fresh Local<br />
Produce<br />
www.carlsbad-village.com<br />
• Best Chef Winner,<br />
Accursio Lotà<br />
• Best Wine List Winner<br />
• 2017 Pasta World<br />
Championship Winner,<br />
Accursio Lotà<br />
Local organic produce,<br />
meat & seafood<br />
Authentic Italian cuisine<br />
Food, wine & spirits<br />
pairing events<br />
Patio dining<br />
Dog friendly<br />
2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com<br />
14 ediblesandiego.com
| EAT WELL<br />
Five Ways to Cook with Kumquats<br />
BY FELICIA CAMPBELL<br />
Jewel-like kumquats are only in season from January to<br />
April. We love to eat them like candy, tender skin and all,<br />
with dime-sized slices making great additions to salads and salsas.<br />
They also happen to be an amazing ingredient to cook with.<br />
Honeyed<br />
Bring a pound of kumquats to a boil with a cup of honey, ⅓ cup<br />
sugar, 1 ¼ cups water, and half a vanilla bean, then turn down to a<br />
simmer and cook for about 25 minutes or until the liquid is thick<br />
and the little fruits begin to melt. Use the topping for ice cream,<br />
cakes, or ricotta-smeared toast (find Olivia Hayo’s recipe for honeyed<br />
kumquats on toast from our cover on ediblesandiego.com).<br />
Slow Cooked<br />
Slow-roasted pork shoulder, chicken tagine, and Instant Pot<br />
braised beef all benefit from the bright citrus pop of kumquats.<br />
Halve a cup or two and toss them in. The result is pure magic.<br />
Baked<br />
When your kumquats are getting a little too ripe, toss them in a<br />
blender with a nub of ginger and add the purée to your muffin<br />
or cake batter. You can even get fancy and add a few slices to<br />
the bottom of your muffin tins for miniature kumquat upsidedown<br />
cakes.<br />
Stuffed<br />
Slide slices of kumquat and little pads of butter under the skin<br />
of a roaster and stuff the cavity with aromatic herbs, garlic, and<br />
a few whole kumquats for a sweet take on classic roast chicken.<br />
They also make a great addition to stuffed pork loin.<br />
Grilled<br />
Add a subtle smoky flavor to your kumquats by skewering them<br />
with chunks of marinated fish; if you’re grilling steak, chicken,<br />
or anything that takes longer than a few minutes to cook, make<br />
separate kebabs of kumquats to serve alongside.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 15
EAT WELL |<br />
BY ERIN JACKSON<br />
Shrub<br />
Tonics<br />
POST-HOLIDAY SEASON, we’re reaching for refreshing<br />
tonics made with local shrubs—sweet and tart concoctions<br />
of fruit, sugar, and vinegar that stimulate the<br />
appetite while slaking thirst. Besides being delicious,<br />
these tonics are said to contain healthy ingredients that<br />
aid digestion and fortify the immune system.<br />
16 ediblesandiego.com
| EAT WELL<br />
Cold Buster<br />
This tropical tonic has ginger<br />
and turmeric to help strengthen<br />
the immune system, encourage<br />
digestion, and ease pain and<br />
inflammation, plus a dollop of<br />
honey to soothe sore throats. For a<br />
boozy version similar to a hot toddy,<br />
reduce the water by 1 ounce and<br />
add 1½ ounces of warm whiskey.<br />
½ ounce Nostrum Pineapple<br />
Turmeric Ginger Shrub<br />
1 ounce fresh lemon juice<br />
2 teaspoons honey<br />
4 ounces hot water<br />
Mix first 3 ingredients in a mug and<br />
top with hot water to serve.<br />
Cranberry<br />
Bubbly<br />
The dynamic duo of ginger and<br />
cranberry juice may improve heart<br />
health and help prevent infection,<br />
making this mocktail tonic tasty<br />
and good for you.<br />
1 ounce Nostrum Strawberry<br />
Cascara Ginger Shrub<br />
¾ ounce unsweetened cranberry<br />
juice<br />
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice<br />
3–4 ounces soda water<br />
Build in a tall glass over ice to serve.<br />
Make Your<br />
Own Shrub<br />
Most shrub recipes use a<br />
1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar,<br />
and vinegar. Macerate<br />
acidic fruits like citrus,<br />
berries, apples, pears, or<br />
stone fruit with white<br />
sugar and add your choice<br />
of vinegar. Apple cider,<br />
champagne, or white wine<br />
vinegars are best.<br />
Grapefruit<br />
Rosemary Shrub<br />
1 grapefruit<br />
1 cup white sugar<br />
1 cup organic, unfiltered apple cider<br />
vinegar with the “mother”<br />
2 sprigs rosemary (optional)<br />
Remove zest from the grapefruit and set<br />
aside. Cut away the peel and chop the<br />
flesh into large chunks.<br />
Pour sugar into a medium nonreactive<br />
bowl, add zest, and massage to extract<br />
the fragrant oils. Add the chopped grapefruit<br />
flesh and gently toss. Cover with<br />
plastic wrap and store in refrigerator<br />
until the mixture resembles a thick syrup,<br />
about 24 hours.<br />
Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh<br />
sieve into a large measuring cup. Press<br />
down lightly on the fruit to extract the<br />
juices and scrape in any remaining sugar.<br />
Whisk in vinegar and pour into a glass<br />
bottle or jar. Add the rosemary (if using),<br />
cap the bottle, shake well, and store in the<br />
fridge for another 24 hours.<br />
Shake mixture before using, as sugar may<br />
not fully dissolve for several days. Shrubs<br />
can last a few months in the fridge. Over<br />
time, the vinegar flavor will mellow out.<br />
Recipes by Nostrum • nostrumshrubs.com<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 17
GROW GOOD |<br />
BY NAN STERMAN<br />
Waterwise Gardening<br />
Starting a Raised Bed Garden<br />
<strong>Winter</strong> is the perfect time to prepare for a spring vegetable<br />
garden, especially if you are just beginning. There’s much<br />
more to growing vegetables than plopping seedlings into the<br />
ground. In our hot climate, where soils have very little organic<br />
matter and no summer rainfall, the best way to grow veggies is to<br />
plant them in raised beds.<br />
What’s a raised bed? The most simple and time-proven raised<br />
beds are bottomless wood boxes that sit on the ground. Each is<br />
filled with a soil mixture customized for vegetables. Since vegetables<br />
tend to be “thirsty” plants, each bed gets plumbed with<br />
a dedicated irrigation system on its own valve, separate from the<br />
rest of the garden.<br />
Planting in raised beds is different too. The plants can be<br />
grown closer together, which means more vegetables in less space.<br />
There are endless variations of raised beds, but here are the basics.<br />
The best place for raised beds<br />
Choose a spot in full sun, near your kitchen, with good access<br />
to water. Set beds atop bare soil, NOT on top of grass, landscape<br />
cloth, weed cloth, concrete, gravel, or asphalt.<br />
The best materials for raised beds<br />
I am a fan of building raised beds with untreated wood, preferably<br />
redwood.<br />
Line the bottoms with hardware cloth (not chicken wire,<br />
which breaks down sooner). Cut hardware cloth a little wider<br />
and longer than the bed, and push it down into the bed from<br />
above so the hardware cloth curves up the sides. This helps keep<br />
gophers, voles, and other critters from burrowing in through<br />
the seams.<br />
STELLA DE SMIT ON UPSPLASH<br />
18 ediblesandiego.com
The ideal size for raised beds<br />
Width: The ideal bed is four feet wide. At that width, most adults<br />
can reach the center from either side without stepping into the bed.<br />
Length: Length is not critical, though the most practical length is<br />
eight feet or longer.<br />
Height: The easiest-on-your-back beds are 18 inches or taller. Cap<br />
the top with a horizontal 2x4 or 2x8. Use the cap to set tools,<br />
plants, or your rear end on.<br />
How many raised beds<br />
Two or more beds allow you to rotate crops between beds each<br />
year. Vegetables in the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants,<br />
tomatillos, potatoes) are highly susceptible to nematodes,<br />
fungi, and other pathogens that develop in the soil. Rotating them<br />
from one bed to another helps keep those pathogens at bay. With<br />
two beds, you can plant the nightshade plants in one bed the first<br />
year, in the other bed the second year, then continue to alternate<br />
back and forth.<br />
How to irrigate raised beds<br />
For best success, use in-line drip laid out in a grid atop the<br />
soil. I like Netafim Techline EZ 12mm dripline irrigation, with<br />
emitters spaced every six inches. Space grid lines six inches apart<br />
so there is an emitter every six inches in every direction. With<br />
this layout, water spreads evenly through the soil and doesn’t<br />
leave dry spots.<br />
The best soil for raised beds<br />
Fill beds with a soil mix (not “potting soil”) that is at least 40%<br />
organic matter, 60% soil. Since beds hold a considerable volume—<br />
a bed 4’ wide by 8’ long by 18” tall holds just shy of two cubic<br />
yards—buy soil in bulk from a soil supplier, rock yard, or compost<br />
facility. Mix in two to four cubic feet of compost, plus one or two<br />
cubic feet of worm castings (both compost and worm castings are<br />
sold by the bag)—the bigger the bed, the more compost and worm<br />
castings. Fill each bed to the top. Water two or three times to saturate<br />
the soil and help it settle. I do not recommend using perlite in<br />
raised beds, since it eventually migrates to the surface.<br />
Mulch for raised beds<br />
Straw (not hay) is the best mulch for vegetable gardens. Layer on<br />
three or four inches of straw to keep soil moist and temperatures<br />
moderated. Eventually the straw will decompose into the soil.<br />
For more information, watch my YouTube videos on building<br />
and planting raised beds.<br />
Garden expert, designer, and author Nan Sterman specializes in low water,<br />
sustainable, and edible landscapes. She is the host of A Growing Passion, a<br />
TV show that explores how plants power the planet. Episodes air on KPBS<br />
television on Thursday nights at 8:30 and Saturday afternoons at 3:30, and<br />
on Monday nights at 8:30 on KPBS2. See past episodes online at agrowingpassion.com.<br />
Sterman’s latest book is the just-released Hot Color, Dry<br />
Garden available in bookstores, online, and on her website www.waterwisegardener.com.<br />
She runs the popular Facebook group <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Gardener<br />
and leads international garden tours.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 19
GROW GOOD |<br />
BY CHERIE GOUGH<br />
From Vacant<br />
to Vibrant<br />
Lemon Grove Builds<br />
a Community Garden<br />
When you picture a community garden, you might imagine<br />
neighbors gathering, chatting as they water tomatoes and<br />
attend gardening workshops. But before the dream of a community<br />
garden can become reality, a lot of planning, sweat, and<br />
persistence goes into it. Lemon Grove’s Community Garden<br />
Board knows this to be true. Their garden, which is coming<br />
together in stages, has been a dream since 2008. Now, with the<br />
go-ahead from the city, along with the support of community<br />
organizations and neighbors, they are growing community in a<br />
once-vacant lot at the corner of Olive Street and Central Avenue.<br />
Putting Down Roots<br />
Anita Lopez says that in order for the city to lease the property<br />
to create the community garden, it wanted commitment from a<br />
community-based group. A team of volunteers elected leaders, drew<br />
up a business plan, and found a fiscal agent in THRIVE Lemon<br />
Grove, a nonprofit grassroots organization that focuses on improving<br />
the public safety and health of the city. In June 2018, the Lemon<br />
Grove Community Garden gained approval from City Council.<br />
The community garden is part of the Healthy Eating Active<br />
Living (HEAL) Zone Coalition. Kaiser Permanente helps fund the<br />
initiative through a grant to help small communities like Lemon<br />
Grove focus on reducing obesity. Lopez, program manager of HEAL<br />
Zone, envisions a future where plot members can learn new ways to<br />
use their seasonal produce through cooking demonstrations at the<br />
farmers’ market and monthly Saturday workshops in the garden.<br />
Environmental Sustainability<br />
John Hochman, a key member of the group since its inception,<br />
is the environmental sustainability officer. “I see this garden<br />
as an extension of the world at large and I want to help it grow<br />
with the principles by which we should live,” says Hochman,<br />
who reclaimed the wood to build the raised beds. He also found<br />
a friend and Vista community activist to donate the salvaged<br />
20 ediblesandiego.com
| GROW GOOD<br />
materials for the chain-link fence that lines the garden’s perimeter.<br />
“It takes a lot of energy and natural resources to create these<br />
materials, so everything that can be reused serves an important<br />
purpose,” he notes. Last summer, the group began meeting every<br />
Saturday to clear the land and start building beds and fencing<br />
that will eventually be surrounded by dwarf citrus trees.<br />
Garden chair Walt Oliwa says that the drip irrigation system will<br />
help save water and minimize the frustration often experienced by<br />
novice gardeners who may not know how often to water.<br />
Accessibility<br />
“Accessibility is a key factor in the garden’s vision and planning,”<br />
says Oliwa. Of the garden’s 40 raised beds, six will be raised higher<br />
to provide seniors with elevated access to tend to their gardens, and<br />
three beds on the garden’s perimeter will be wheelchair accessible.<br />
Neighbors Come Together<br />
Neighbors in passing have contributed significantly to the<br />
garden’s progress. In October of last year, while volunteers took<br />
measurements to install the drip irrigation system, a pickup truck<br />
stopped by. The community resident was a contractor who offered<br />
his time to do the job professionally. Other neighbors have<br />
donated tools that they no longer need. Such small acts are planting<br />
seeds of success. Locals attend Saturday builds when they can,<br />
and engage through an active social media campaign and website.<br />
Logistics<br />
Garden beds are available to interested Lemon Grove residents<br />
first, and any excess beds will be available to neighboring community<br />
members. To make beds affordable, the $100 annual<br />
fee can be paid quarterly and includes access to water, seasonal<br />
starter seeds, shared garden tools, and monthly workshops. Garden<br />
members will be expected to volunteer for several hours each<br />
year to keep the space looking beautiful and welcoming, which<br />
will also give them a chance to take advantage of the garden<br />
managers’ expert advice on topics such as composting and growing<br />
organic produce. Monthly newsletters will keep members<br />
and interested residents informed about events put together by<br />
the group’s program director Kirk Taylor.<br />
“There is a synergy here,” says Lopez. She believes that with the<br />
garden’s growing success, neighbors will continue to support efforts<br />
that raise awareness about healthy living. A thriving garden yields<br />
more than just produce. It means active time spent outdoors,<br />
relationship building, and access to healthy foods for all.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 21
When it's about food... #specialtyproduce<br />
Fabulous<br />
INSIDEOUT<br />
FABULOUSHILLCREST.COM<br />
22 ediblesandiego.com
| FEATURE<br />
A few CSA shares and<br />
farm boxes we’ve tried<br />
Garden of Eden Organics<br />
Find pickup locations and add eggs<br />
to a cooperative CSA box offering<br />
a variety of regional produce at<br />
goeorganics.com.<br />
Who Cares About<br />
Farm-to-Table?<br />
BY MICHAEL A. GARDINER<br />
Remember when farm-to-table was all the<br />
rage? Or was it just that “shortening the<br />
food chain” sounded cool? I was genuinely<br />
excited by the first appearance of Cherokee<br />
Purple potatoes, wasn’t I? But then there was<br />
that Colin the Chicken bit on Portlandia<br />
where it wasn’t enough to know the chicken’s<br />
breed, if it was organic, that it was locally<br />
raised and from which farm, and whether or<br />
not the hazelnuts in the bird’s diet were local—but<br />
they also had to know the chicken’s<br />
name. I laughed at this. And not ironically.<br />
Such a chuckle suggested that I was not<br />
adequately invested, and for that, a friend<br />
of mine—let’s call him Colin—threatened<br />
to pull my foodie card. “In <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, we’re<br />
not second fiddle to Portland in farm-totable<br />
or beer,” Colin says. He had facts. “<strong>San</strong><br />
<strong>Diego</strong> County farms are worth $1.7 billion<br />
annually, contributing 16,000 jobs to the<br />
local economy, and no other county in the<br />
country has more small organic farms.”<br />
I proudly point out that I’ve immensely<br />
enjoyed dining at spots like Wrench &<br />
Rodent Seabasstropub, Garden Kitchen,<br />
and A.R. Valentien, who persevere on<br />
the restaurant side of the farm-to-table<br />
equation. However, despite growing efforts<br />
by grassroots campaigns like Farm<br />
to Fork <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> and the Farm Bureau’s<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> 365 that verify local sourcing<br />
practices for diners, we both know<br />
that these efforts are far outnumbered<br />
by restaurants whose commitment to<br />
farm-to-table is marginal, at best.<br />
I don’t know what’s worse: greenwashing<br />
menus, which undercuts the value of those<br />
who walk the talk, or ignoring provenance<br />
altogether.<br />
But Colin persists further, the bastard:<br />
“Throw a stone and you’ll hit a farmers’<br />
market.”<br />
Yes, <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County boasts a bounty<br />
of farmers’ markets, but many are overrun<br />
with expensive crafts, and produce from as far<br />
north as Modesto isn’t what I would call local.<br />
Pressing the point, Colin adds, “Farmers<br />
are feeling the pinch of long-term drought,<br />
increasing water rates, and regulatory<br />
requirements and are struggling to get their<br />
crops to market.” Ouch.<br />
So the moral of the story is there’s no single<br />
step consumers can take to support local<br />
farms, but making the effort matters. If you<br />
like looking a farmer in the eye at a market,<br />
buy direct from them even if they’re from<br />
Modesto. This foodie—yes, I reclaim my<br />
card—prefers CSAs. Community Supported<br />
Agriculture, at its purest level, is an alternative<br />
socioeconomic model in which community<br />
members purchase advance shares of a harvest<br />
from a farm in exchange for future weekly<br />
boxes of fresh produce or goods.<br />
“So, which is your CSA?” Colin asks me.<br />
I gulp. “I used to be with Suzie’s before<br />
they closed. And I was with J.R. Organics<br />
before that.” Colin gives me a dirty look.<br />
“Yeah,” I say.<br />
I’ll have resubscribed before you read<br />
these words.<br />
Dickinson Farm<br />
CSA shares are available quarterly<br />
for the finest selection of heirloom<br />
varietals. Their Farmacy offers chefmade<br />
meals at dickinson.farm.<br />
Be Wise Ranch<br />
Checking out their online harvest<br />
calendar works up an appetite.<br />
Sign up for quarterly shares at<br />
bewiseranch.com.<br />
Eli’s Farms<br />
Get the Farmer’s Pick Plus CSA<br />
box with 13 to 15 items from this<br />
Fallbrook farm at elisfarms.com.<br />
J.R. Organics<br />
Get a free box for every 12 boxes<br />
purchased at jrorganicsfarm.com.<br />
Wild Willow Farm<br />
Support regenerative agriculture<br />
and one of the most significant<br />
educational farms in the region by<br />
purchasing a $25/week full share or<br />
half share at sandiegoroots.org.<br />
Da-Le Ranch<br />
The Inland Empire ranch offers CSA<br />
shares for their variety of ethically<br />
and sustainably raised meats at<br />
da-le-ranch.com.<br />
Farm Fresh to You<br />
Flexible box options range<br />
from traditional CSA to fruit<br />
only to organic snack pack at<br />
farmfreshtoyou.com.<br />
Imperfect Produce<br />
This <strong>San</strong> Francisco-based<br />
company is buying ugly fruits<br />
and veggies from organic<br />
growers and selling them in<br />
customizable boxes that can be<br />
delivered straight to your door at<br />
imperfectproduce.com.<br />
Specialty Produce<br />
The farmers’ market box is a great<br />
deal for $20, with options to add<br />
local favorites like PB Peanut Butter<br />
and Chuao Chocolatier for when<br />
you’ve had too many vegetables,<br />
at specialtyproduce.com.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 23
Food<br />
to the<br />
Rescue<br />
How six<br />
<strong>San</strong> Diegans<br />
changed<br />
their lives<br />
by changing<br />
their diet.<br />
BY DEBRA BASS<br />
24 ediblesandiego.com
| FEATURE<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
As in most things, intent makes all the difference. Making<br />
dietary changes to punish yourself typically leads to failure.<br />
But if your objective is to feel better, you can make the same<br />
changes with less resistance and more long-lasting positive results.<br />
It won’t feel like a sacrifice because you have a greater goal.<br />
If your diet makes you miserable, then it’s not the right option<br />
for you, no matter what anyone says. Your happy medium<br />
might be more animal protein, less animal protein, or no animal<br />
protein at all. And your preferred diet doesn’t have to have<br />
a name. Maybe you’re 80% vegan and 20% carnivore, or 60%<br />
keto and 40% fruitarian. Don’t let labels dictate your lifestyle;<br />
experimenting with different eating lifestyles, however, can<br />
serve a purpose. It can help you determine what satisfies your<br />
body and what satisfies your soul—or it can help you determine<br />
what doesn’t.<br />
Mentally and physically, there is no one way to eat healthily.<br />
And it should go without saying, but we’ll say it now: If you<br />
can honestly say that you feel great, sleep well, wake up energized,<br />
and you’re happy with the condition of your body, skin,<br />
hair, and nails, then read no further.<br />
You don’t need to adopt a specific dietary preference to<br />
live your best life. But if you’re curious about how these <strong>San</strong><br />
Diegans turned their lives around with wildly different dietary<br />
styles, read on.<br />
This article shares the dietary experiences of six individuals and is not intended<br />
to make medical claims, provide dietary advice, or suggest treatments<br />
for health-related issues. Consult a qualified healthcare provider with any<br />
questions regarding treatment for a medical condition.<br />
Christina<br />
Kantzavelos<br />
30, GLUTEN-FREE<br />
Christina Kantzavelos would like to officially apologize for all<br />
the eye rolls she gave people on a gluten-free diet.<br />
“I learned the hard way that gluten intolerance and celiac<br />
disease are very real,” she says.<br />
Kantzavelos admits that she ignored her symptoms for years.<br />
She was at her worst in graduate school, but she assumed that<br />
stress was the obvious cause.<br />
She suffered through bloating, swelling, migraines, and<br />
cramps and took it all in stride. The last straw for her was acne.<br />
“It sounds vain that it was acne that sent me to the doctor<br />
and not the other stuff, but, well, it was a lot of acne,”<br />
Kantzavelos admits with mock horror. She never had acne as a<br />
teenager, so developing blemishes after graduate school seemed<br />
a cruel twist of fate.<br />
Visiting dermatologists didn’t yield a solution. The lotions and<br />
potions didn’t help, so a friend recommended she see a naturopath,<br />
something else that Christina would have normally greeted<br />
with an eye roll, but this time she was desperate. The naturopath<br />
diagnosed her with celiac disease almost immediately. Later tests<br />
confirmed her condition—and then everything changed.<br />
Her gluten intolerance made her a lot more tolerant of<br />
gluten-free enthusiasts.<br />
“Yes, it’s a fad diet for some<br />
people, but the fact that it’s a fad<br />
drives up demand, which means<br />
that there are a lot more options for<br />
people like me,” Kantzavelos says.<br />
Besides, going gluten-free won’t<br />
harm anything but your tastebuds.<br />
She’s found many gluten-free<br />
options, including some things that<br />
rival their gluten-laden counterparts.<br />
But occasionally, she starts raving<br />
about a product that she thinks must<br />
taste as good as the original and she<br />
presents it lovingly to her spouse or<br />
family for confirmation.<br />
“The response is usually, ‘um, no,<br />
I can tell it’s missing gluten,’” she<br />
says. “So my baseline has definitely<br />
shifted.”<br />
The good news is that she<br />
doesn’t care and she doesn’t feel<br />
like she is sacrificing. Her diet is<br />
stricter than most because of other<br />
dietary issues, but she says that it<br />
doesn’t feel limiting since she focuses<br />
on what she eats that makes<br />
her feel good.<br />
She’s gluten-free, dairy-free, and<br />
soy-free. She keeps her sugar intake<br />
to the bare minimum, doesn’t<br />
drink alcohol, and mostly follows<br />
a low-histamine eating regimen as<br />
well. When she “cheats,” she eats<br />
lentils, nuts, other legumes, avocados,<br />
and sometimes eggs.<br />
“I know it sounds really sad<br />
that those are my cheats, because<br />
most people think of those things<br />
Go-to snacks<br />
Laiki Crackers Gluten-Free<br />
Rice Crackers<br />
NuGo Egg White Protein<br />
Bar<br />
Justin’s Peanut or Almond<br />
Butter Packets<br />
Crunchmaster Protein<br />
Crackers<br />
Lark Ellen Farm Grain<br />
Free Bites<br />
Bubba’s Snack Mixes<br />
Bhuja Snacks<br />
Favorite Restaurants<br />
Nectarine Grove in<br />
Encinitas<br />
Starry Lane Bakery<br />
Plumeria (Thai vegan)<br />
Instagram @<br />
buenqamino<br />
as really healthy, but they don’t agree with my body. So if I eat<br />
them, I do it in moderation,” Kantzavelos says.<br />
A licenced psychotherapist by profession, Kantzavelos is also<br />
a writer. Her favorite topics are wellness and mental health.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 25
FEATURE |<br />
Esperanza<br />
Peralta-Guerrero<br />
69, KITCHENISTA<br />
As a first-generation Mexican-American, Esperanza Peralta-<br />
Guerrero spent most of her life cooking a traditional Mexican<br />
diet—lots of flavorful pork dishes cooked in lard and supplemented<br />
with processed sugar. She had a desire to eat and cook<br />
healthier meals, but she didn’t know where to begin.<br />
A friend invited her to her first yoga class at Olivewood<br />
Gardens & Learning Center in National City. That day, they<br />
were also doing cooking demonstrations. Peralta-Guerrero<br />
was immediately interested and signed up for the Kitchenista<br />
program. It took a year for her to get through the waiting<br />
list, but she says the program changed her life and the life of<br />
her family.<br />
“I’m most proud of my mom,” she explains. Her mom is<br />
now 90 years old and at the time that Peralta-Guerrero started<br />
the program, her mother was pre-diabetic. She shared all the<br />
information with her mother who was initially skeptical, but<br />
gradually, her mother changed a lifetime of cooking habits<br />
and started eating meatless meals, eliminated processed foods,<br />
and switched from sugar to Stevia.<br />
“She really accepted all of it and started eating more vegetables<br />
and more salads, which are not traditional in a Mexican<br />
meal,” Peralta-Guerrero says. “I think it’s because she felt the<br />
difference, not just saw the difference in me.”<br />
The Kitchenista program stresses the benefits of cooking<br />
with organic foods and shares meatless recipes and ways to<br />
incorporate healthy substitutions into traditional meals.<br />
Peralta-Guerrero says that her husband grumbled a little<br />
about missing red meat at mealtime, but he had faith that<br />
she was looking out for his best interests. She says that he too<br />
noticed a difference in himself.<br />
“I don’t know how to describe it, but for me I felt not so<br />
heavy,” Peralta-Guerrero says. “I feel like I have more of a<br />
balance in my body. I don’t miss the meat or any of the foods<br />
that I used to eat.”<br />
Though she concedes that she didn’t give up tamales, she<br />
now eats them with chicken, not pork, and she only eats those<br />
from her own kitchen or her mother’s so she knows what they<br />
are made with.<br />
Three years as a Kitchenista has changed her entire eating life.<br />
She now has a small garden at home and grows many of the<br />
fruits and vegetables that her family eats most. Her husband<br />
has planted tomatoes, zucchini, chiles, and bell peppers, and<br />
they also have nectarine, peach, golden mandarin, apricot, and<br />
lemon trees. She says that it<br />
sounds like a lot, but you don’t<br />
need much space to start a family<br />
garden.<br />
As a volunteer educator at<br />
the center she learned that<br />
food gardens aren’t so difficult<br />
to maintain. Having fresh<br />
produce is also a great motivator<br />
to use it in meals and share<br />
them with family.<br />
After Peralta-Guerrero<br />
finished the program, her<br />
47-year-old daughter did the<br />
same. Now, when her family<br />
cooks together, they are creating<br />
healthy meals that everyone<br />
enjoys. Peralta-Guerrero hopes<br />
this cultural shift will mean<br />
that she will be preparing nutritious<br />
meals with her mom and<br />
daughter for years to come.<br />
Go-to breakfast<br />
A slice of Ezekiel bread<br />
with coconut oil, plus<br />
yogurt and fruit, usually<br />
a mix of strawberries,<br />
blueberries, bananas,<br />
apples, pecans, almonds,<br />
cinnamon, and a<br />
teaspoon of maple syrup<br />
Go-to snacks<br />
Raw mango<br />
Homemade coconut balls<br />
and chocolate peanut<br />
butter balls<br />
Handful of nuts<br />
Orange slices with chili<br />
powder and pink salt<br />
Go-to salad<br />
Greek salad with Napa<br />
and green cabbage,<br />
tomato, cucumber, feta<br />
cheese, cilantro, thin<br />
slices of red onion,<br />
kalamata olives, and<br />
extra-virgin olive oil<br />
26 ediblesandiego.com
| FEATURE<br />
Colleen Someck<br />
58, FLEXITARIAN<br />
Before Colleen Someck could start dancing in the kitchen, she<br />
had to learn to like food again. She survived an eating disorder that<br />
escalated when she was 19.<br />
“I knew I had a problem because I was binging and purging and<br />
feeling guilty and ashamed,” Someck recounts. “I knew something<br />
was wrong, but I couldn’t fix it.”<br />
She had semi-successful recoveries but always relapsed. When<br />
she finally attempted to get help at a rehabilitation center, they<br />
turned her away because she wasn’t thin enough. So you can guess<br />
the damage that wrought.<br />
“I can look back in hindsight and see that I wanted to punish<br />
myself. I felt less than, like I had no value,” Someck says. “Food …<br />
food was bad.”<br />
She used extreme diets to mask her dysfunctional eating. She<br />
was macrobiotic for a while because it gave her an excuse to make<br />
small meals and avoid most readily available foods.<br />
Someck describes her routine as exhausting. She was moody,<br />
hungry, and lonely. She didn’t have the energy she needed to get<br />
through the day, but she was still running miles every day in order<br />
to lose even more weight.<br />
She doesn’t remember a last-straw or rock-bottom moment, but<br />
she remembers deciding that food is not bad. In the days that followed,<br />
her only goal was attempting to not purge or binge. The successful<br />
days stacked up, and eventually she knew her life had shifted.<br />
“I think I was in recovery for 20-some-odd years,” Someck says.<br />
“So now, all food is good.”<br />
Dancing in the Kitchen was her first cookbook in 2016. Her<br />
second is currently in the works. Most of the recipes are vegan,<br />
but she includes tips and suggestions about adding meat or eggs to<br />
certain recipes.<br />
“You have to listen to your body. I’m not going to tell anyone<br />
that they can’t or shouldn’t eat something,” Someck says.<br />
She describes herself as a flexitarian because she eats mainly<br />
vegetarian, but she no longer gets stuck on labels. If she<br />
orders soup and it turns out it was made with chicken broth, or if<br />
there’s birthday cake and everyone is celebrating, she doesn’t flip<br />
out or exclude herself. She says that if something doesn’t fit into<br />
what she normally eats and she wants to eat it, she does.<br />
“I can’t play those mind games. I won’t do it,” she says. “I choose<br />
food that makes me feel the best that I can be. That’s it.”<br />
Instagram<br />
@colleensomeck<br />
Go-to favorites<br />
Cooked beans and grains<br />
Seasonal vegetables<br />
Mock tuna<br />
Quinoa for soups<br />
and salads<br />
Favorite restaurants<br />
Lofty Coffee in<br />
Solana Beach<br />
Cucina Enoteca<br />
True Food Kitchen<br />
in La Jolla<br />
Nectarine Grove<br />
GOODONYA<br />
Organic Eatery<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 27
Instagram<br />
@onedopevegan_<br />
Branden Williams<br />
38, VEGAN<br />
“I like to say that I went cold tofurkey,” Branden Williams explains<br />
in a manner that sounds like a joke but implies that he’s dead<br />
serious. “Vegan and sober. Everything happened all at once.”<br />
He says that he looked in the mirror and knew that he could do<br />
better.<br />
“I was like, I’m not going out like this,” he says.<br />
He was 5’10” and 270 pounds. “I ate lots of food that came out<br />
of a box, I wasn’t active, and I didn’t know how to be myself without<br />
alcohol,” he says. If he was going out with friends to a concert,<br />
he’d drink before going out to loosen up. If he was home, he’d<br />
drink to relax. If he was out, he’d drink to enjoy himself.<br />
“One day, I realized that everything I was drinking and eating<br />
was making me feel bad,” Williams says.<br />
He went to the doctor to figure out why he was suffering from<br />
horrible migraines, irritability, and poor sleep. After lots of testing<br />
and a CAT scan, there was no clear diagnosis. No one told him to<br />
change his diet. He figured that out on his own.<br />
“I just thought, I’m already living in one extreme and it’s<br />
clearly not working for me, so why not try the reverse,” he says.<br />
Williams was also motivated by his aunt who had been following<br />
a vegan diet for more than 30 years. She was 62 years old<br />
and had none of the health complaints he was dealing with.<br />
“It saved my life. Really. I can’t imagine what I would be like if I<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
28 ediblesandiego.com
| FEATURE<br />
Favorite restaurants<br />
Loving Hut in Mira Mesa<br />
Donna Jean<br />
Evolution Fast Food<br />
Plant Power Fast Food<br />
Mission Square Market<br />
for the vegan deli<br />
Go-to salad<br />
Spinach leaves, diced<br />
bell peppers, diced<br />
black olives, diced red<br />
onions, diced tomatoes,<br />
avocado, kidney beans,<br />
and garbanzo beans with<br />
Annie’s Goddess dressing<br />
Go-to snack<br />
Lenny & Larry’s<br />
Complete Cookie<br />
hadn’t made that change,” Williams adds. Now, he says there is no<br />
going back. When he switched his diet, he also started going to the<br />
gym regularly to lift weights.<br />
“I didn’t know what I was doing the first three to four months<br />
but I kept going,” he says. The same was true of his new vegan<br />
diet, but he studied and gained expertise about vegan cooking,<br />
animal cruelty, and the physiology, psychology, and politics<br />
behind veganism.<br />
He’s now a personal trainer and he’s committed to being a<br />
lifelong vegan. His son and his fiancée are also vegans. When Williams<br />
and his fiancée first met, she was skeptical about vegan diets.<br />
“She was saying the same thing everyone else parrots: ‘I could<br />
never,’ ‘What about your protein?’ ‘Aren’t you hungry all the<br />
time?’ And I was like, damn, you’re cute but you just don’t get<br />
it,” he says. They didn’t talk again for months. When he saw her<br />
again, she looked different and her skin was glowing. She had<br />
switched to a vegan diet on her own.<br />
Williams says that his son saw the change in his dad and<br />
embraced vegan food without much resistance.<br />
“He could see me as an example. He saw the before and the<br />
after. He saw round, unhealthy, angry dad,” Williams says. He’s<br />
lost more than 80 pounds, although that’s not as important as<br />
how he feels.<br />
“I’m calmer. It has changed my overall mental and physical<br />
health,” he says. “But no one could have come to me the day<br />
before I started and forced me to be vegan. I had to be ready.<br />
So I don’t preach to anyone, I just live as an example. People<br />
will change when they are ready.”<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 29
FEATURE |<br />
Tony Cohen<br />
54, KETO DIET<br />
Tony Cohen, founder of the <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Keto Club, calls himself<br />
one of the first human guinea pigs for exogenous ketones.<br />
He received a FedEx package filled with two clear sandwich<br />
bags of white powder from a friend in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. There were<br />
instructions about how to pee on a ketone testing strip (a practice<br />
that is no longer in favor) and more instructions on what<br />
to eat and when.<br />
It says a lot about Cohen’s life at this time that he started<br />
ingesting the mystery substance without knowing much about<br />
how the keto diet worked. He was living in New York and he<br />
was broke. “I probably suffered from some type of depression,<br />
although I wouldn’t have said that at the time,” Cohen admits.<br />
He lived in a tiny studio above a pizza and ice cream parlor<br />
in Spanish Harlem with no natural light and was teaching Krav<br />
Maga, a relatively obscure mixed martial art, at the time. While<br />
he previously trained to be a chef in Northern Thailand, he<br />
didn’t have a kitchen, so most of his meals were of the typical<br />
New York commuter variety. He had a bacon, egg, and cheese<br />
bagel for breakfast, a slice or two of pizza in the afternoon,<br />
more pizza for dinner, and ice cream for dessert. Every day.<br />
“It was a downward spiral that I couldn’t work my way out<br />
of,” Cohen says. “So when that package came in the mail, I was<br />
ready to make a serious change.”<br />
He says that timing is everything. It also helped that he<br />
didn’t consider it to be a “diet”; it was more of an experiment.<br />
It wasn’t a fad yet, and Cohen, a born contrarian, seemed to<br />
embrace it.<br />
“When I started three years ago, people thought I was an<br />
idiot,” Cohen says.<br />
But it was the right diet—or should we say eating regimen—<br />
at the right time.<br />
“If you had told me to diet, I would have told you where to<br />
go,” Cohen says. “Gradually, I only had pizza and ice cream a<br />
few times a week instead of every day. Then I’d eat the pizza<br />
and skip the ice cream or eat the ice cream and skip the pizza,<br />
and then I just stopped eating them both altogether. But it<br />
didn’t happen overnight.”<br />
The keto diet consists of eliminating refined sugars and eating<br />
low carbohydrates with a proper balance of high-fat foods.<br />
Ketosis occurs when there isn’t enough glucose, the body’s primary<br />
fuel source, so the body starts to break down fat stores to<br />
produce energy. There’s a lot more to it, and taking exogenous<br />
ketones is entirely optional. Tony recommends starting with<br />
small changes, such as cutting down on processed food.<br />
“It can be really overwhelming. You have to do it in steps,”<br />
he says.<br />
Favorite restaurants<br />
Bare Back Grill in Pacific<br />
Beach for burgers<br />
Second Nature North<br />
Pacific Beach for clean<br />
steak and bacon<br />
Cívico 1845 in Little Italy<br />
for great cheese and<br />
salami plates<br />
Wheat and Water in Bird<br />
Rock for bulletproof<br />
coffee<br />
Shops<br />
Sprouts<br />
Little Italy Farmers’<br />
Market<br />
Treats<br />
Yez Foods, local keto<br />
bread and cookie<br />
company<br />
Dry Farms Wine<br />
Instagram<br />
@therealtonycohen<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
30 ediblesandiego.com
Instagram<br />
@steph_gaudreau<br />
Steph Gaudreau<br />
39, PALEO<br />
Steph Gaudreau thinks the “caveman diet” analogy is the worst<br />
thing to happen to Paleo dieters.<br />
“It’s a trope that has not done us any favors, but it’s an<br />
association that sticks,” she says. Even though it’s ridiculous to<br />
think that we can or should eat like a prehistoric human with a<br />
30-year lifespan, we can eat simpler food, she says. As famed food<br />
writer Michael Pollan would say, “Don’t eat anything your greatgrandmother<br />
wouldn’t recognize as food.”<br />
Even though the Paleo name hails from the Paleolithic<br />
era, she says that we shouldn’t pretend that the dietary needs<br />
of the modern human haven’t evolved since the Stone Age.<br />
Among other innovations, our crop-growing skills and cooking<br />
technology allow for a more appetizing and nutritionally<br />
balanced year-round diet. We can do better than caveman meals.<br />
“I’ve tried every diet under the sun and I always fell back into<br />
old habits,” Gaudreau explains. Starting the Paleo diet was incidental.<br />
In 2009, she was active in the mountain biking and racing<br />
community. She needed a way to fuel her body and she stumbled<br />
upon a way of eating that provided the fuel that increased her<br />
performance and satisfied her cravings.<br />
“For years, I had digestive problems and weird menstrual cycles.<br />
I was hangry and had sleep issues, and I thought, I guess that’s just<br />
how I am,” Gaudreau says. “But so much of that was governed by<br />
my diet and how I was eating.”<br />
When she started the Paleo diet, it was the first time she<br />
started a diet that wasn’t about losing weight. It made all the difference,<br />
she says.<br />
“People saw that I was changing, and I don’t just mean losing<br />
inches. I was different and thinking differently, and that’s what<br />
got me into starting the blog,” she says. At first, it was just recipes,<br />
but soon she was explaining what she could about her journey and<br />
how others might experiment with<br />
the diet for their own health.<br />
Go-to favorite foods<br />
Gaudreau went from teaching high<br />
Batch-cooked sweet<br />
school chemistry and biology to blogging<br />
full-time in 2012. The blog was<br />
Safe-Catch tuna<br />
potatoes<br />
how she met her husband, who was Homemade hummus<br />
living in Scotland at the time. They<br />
Go-to meal<br />
bonded over Paleo and racing, dated<br />
InstaPot beef stew<br />
long distance for a couple years, then<br />
married in 2014.<br />
“It’s great to have a partner who was already committed to<br />
Paleo,” Gaudreau says, but she’s really referring to conscientious<br />
eating.<br />
She says she understands that some people are really adamant<br />
about not eating meat and she assures them that she doesn’t<br />
want animals to suffer either. Ethical eating is a lot more difficult<br />
than eat this or don’t eat that.<br />
“I don’t think anyone has a simple answer, but I know that<br />
if we eat less meat, and better meat, we could support a more<br />
sustainable, ethical, and environmental process,” Gaudreau<br />
says. “There will always be death associated with the way we<br />
grow our food unless we start growing it in a lab, and that has<br />
its own ethical problems.”<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 31
FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS |<br />
BY BETH DEMMON<br />
Friends with Benefits<br />
Frank and Rick<br />
“M<br />
y family has always been in the dairy business. It’s a...<br />
different sort of business,” laughs Frank Konyn of<br />
Frank Konyn Dairy. Established in 1962 by his father, Konyn’s<br />
250-acre dairy farm is nestled on the <strong>San</strong> Pasqual Valley floor 35<br />
miles northeast of downtown <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>. With over 800 cows, he<br />
estimates his monthly feed bill to be over a quarter of a million<br />
dollars. As land costs increased alongside agricultural regulations,<br />
Konyn realized that in order to survive, he’d have to diversify.<br />
“In California, you’ll find the same thing among most dairymen.<br />
It’s not a standalone business. Throughout the state, they<br />
grow almonds and walnuts, own real estate, maybe they do hay<br />
sales, etcetera. But for a standalone dairyman to survive is proving<br />
to be very difficult,” he explains.<br />
Even on farms, opportunities to turn wasteful liabilities into<br />
profitable assets are hard to come by, but as Konyn searched for<br />
a profitable new venture, he realized he was sitting on a veritable<br />
gold mine—or more accurately, a brown one.<br />
A dairy cow can eat over 100 pounds of food in a day and generates<br />
over six yards of manure per year. Cow manure happens<br />
to be very rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making<br />
it a perfect source for mixing rich compost for growing crops<br />
or flowers. In 2007, Konyn launched the dairy’s sister company<br />
<strong>San</strong> Pasqual Valley Soils to combine landscape trimmings with<br />
manure in order to provide greenhouse gas-reducing compost<br />
available for sale. It remains one of the only approved organic-use<br />
composting sites in the county.<br />
Rick Sarver, vice president of sales and operations at <strong>San</strong><br />
Pasqual Valley Soils, describes some of the unique challenges they<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
32 ediblesandiego.com
face as unfortunate. “Composting is a heavily regulated<br />
industry, and we’ve spent a lot of money on permitting,<br />
and spend a substantial amount annually on regulatory<br />
compliance. And the rules are getting more stringent.<br />
This dynamic makes it hard to make ends meet. Since<br />
composting and use of the end product actually reduces<br />
greenhouse gas emissions, we think the regulations should<br />
take that into account and soften up on activities that are<br />
moving our environmental goals in the right direction.”<br />
Despite these roadblocks, their compost ships to everyone<br />
from local landscapers to the Carlsbad flower fields<br />
and even California State University, <strong>San</strong> Marcos for use<br />
on the baseball field. Konyn also uses it on-site to help his<br />
alfalfa fields grow, generating an additional feed source for<br />
his cows in order to reduce his monthly expenses.<br />
The symbiotic benefits were immediate. “The compost<br />
site helps the dairy survive, and consumers get the benefit<br />
of microbially rich soil amendments as well as locally<br />
produced milk,” says Sarver.<br />
As the businesses grew, costs for transporting materials<br />
across the county grew right along with it. Thus, the third<br />
leg of the cooperation “organically” emerged in the form<br />
of KD Farms Trucking, Inc.<br />
“The trucking company started out as a pickup truck<br />
with a dump trailer. Now, we have a fleet of eight trucks,”<br />
says Konyn.<br />
Today, the trucks deliver their compost all over the<br />
region, but Konyn saw a greater opportunity. With no<br />
shortage of local beer being brewed in <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>, KD<br />
Farms Trucking, Inc. is now one of the biggest users and<br />
transporters of spent grain from local breweries. Konyn<br />
estimates they’ve grown from picking up two to three tons<br />
of grains at a time to over 250 tons per week (50 tons<br />
alone come from Karl Strauss).<br />
“[We] collect more than 1,500 tons per month of food<br />
waste, including spent brewery grains, bakery products,<br />
and pressed fruits and vegetables from juice manufacturers.<br />
All of these materials are diverted from landfills and<br />
converted into feed for the cows,” says Konyn.<br />
Sarver sees the relationship between the companies as<br />
“a win-win, but not without its costs, hard work, and<br />
diligence to bring to fruition.” He urges those interested<br />
in establishing the same type of dynamic to follow the<br />
proper channels in order for small operations to continue<br />
delivering consumer benefits.<br />
When it comes to benefits, Konyn acknowledges that<br />
CAFOs (confined animal feeding operations) concern<br />
animal welfare advocates, vegans, and environmentalists,<br />
but contends that diversifying his dairy operation enables<br />
him to produce milk while recycling food waste into animal<br />
feed —plus it produces soil-building compost. “We’re<br />
taking refuse from urban centers and converting it into<br />
feed for our animals. Those animals in turn create highprotein,<br />
human-consumable foods. By co-composting the<br />
manure with landscape trimmings, we create soil-building<br />
products. How can you create a more sustainable closedloop<br />
cycle than that?”<br />
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WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 33
34 ediblesandiego.com<br />
OLIVIA HAYO
| STAYCATION<br />
Getting Away<br />
at the<br />
Rancho Bernardo Inn<br />
BY OLIVIA HAYO<br />
We set off for the weekend with little more than a duffel<br />
bag and plans to relax away from the hustle of Little<br />
Italy. Heading north on the 15 freeway for only 30 minutes, our<br />
destination was the Rancho Bernardo Inn.<br />
I grew up in the lush suburb of Carmel Mountain Ranch,<br />
attending many special events at the Rancho Bernardo Inn over<br />
the years. One of my earliest memories is being a flower girl in<br />
a family wedding, tossing rose petals between olive and cypress<br />
trees. Returning to RB usually feels like going home—but this<br />
time it felt like getting away.<br />
Friday<br />
We arrived on Friday just in time for the farmers’ market at<br />
the 130-year-old Bernardo Winery. With coffees in hand from<br />
Manzanita Roasting Company, we wandered through the estate’s<br />
dozen shops and galleries before stopping into the tasting<br />
room for a few sips of wine.<br />
Back in the car we continued through the residential neighborhood<br />
until we reached the Rancho Bernardo Inn. Its Spanish roof<br />
and cream exterior standing out amongst rich greenery and terra<br />
cotta accents. The lobby is welcoming with warm earth tones,<br />
exposed beam ceilings, and a cozy fireside nook.<br />
The resort is part of a 265-acre property that includes 287<br />
rooms and suites, multiple dining options, a luxury spa, and<br />
an 18-hole championship golf course. Rooms are elegantly updated<br />
in cream and olive-green tones that make for a traditional<br />
Southern California take on Mediterranean style with patios<br />
and balconies overlooking the golf course and courtyards.<br />
We enjoyed glimpses of ivy-draped buildings through weeping<br />
willow branches, shimmering olive trees, and cypress tree<br />
spires on an evening stroll. The peaceful trickle of more than a<br />
dozen unique water features completed the distinctly Mediterranean<br />
atmosphere of the property.<br />
We followed one of the lantern-lit paths and arrived right<br />
on time for a dinner reservation at AVANT. A warm fireplace<br />
greeted us inside, along with a glowing sunset streaming in<br />
through the windows. The wraparound bar was filled with<br />
guests and locals chatting over cocktails, while others finished<br />
happy hour on the vibrant patio just beyond. Dark beams and<br />
wood paneling framed the dining room furnished with intimate<br />
booths, tables, and banquette seating, all tied together with<br />
Spanish iron accents.<br />
The drink menu offers New and Old World wines, hyper-local<br />
beers, and cocktails crafted with regional touches. Partial to<br />
gin, I ordered The Flying Dutchman, a refreshing combination<br />
with spicy ginger beer, tart pomegranate, and aromatic mint.<br />
We turned our attention to the dinner menu, organized by sea,<br />
garden, and land. The dishes can change daily for seasonality,<br />
with many ingredients sourced from the on-site chef’s garden.<br />
We enjoyed the salmon belly crudo served with creamy avocado,<br />
briny seaweed, and crunchy radish along with Dungeness<br />
crab elegantly wrapped in sheets of avocado and cucumber, and<br />
topped with crispy potato wafers. The Wagyu beef duo of petite<br />
tenderloin and braised brisket with roasted young squash and<br />
zucchini purée was a definite highlight of the evening. We considered<br />
whether we had room for dessert as live music played in<br />
the background and couldn’t resist the house-favorite cinnamon<br />
sugar doughnuts with Irish coffee affogato as the sweet end to<br />
our evening.<br />
Saturday<br />
We’d ordered room service the night before and woke up to take<br />
advantage of a lazy morning breakfast on the balcony and coffee in<br />
bed while making plans for the day. I was excited to be staying near<br />
my hometown where I could revisit some of my favorite places like<br />
the Blue Sky Reserve. We tackled the two-mile hike through live oak<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 35
trees and sagebrush, finishing just in time to stop for a quick lunch<br />
at Brothers Provisions. This artisan market and deli is part of the 3<br />
Local Brothers restaurant group, which started with RB favorites The<br />
Barrel Room and Urge Gastropub, just down the street.<br />
Back at the inn, we spent the afternoon lounging at the adultsonly<br />
pool, our noses in books and palm trees swaying above.<br />
As the sun set, we returned to our room to change for dinner.<br />
We began the evening with fireside drinks at Veranda, the patio<br />
lounge and restaurant on the property, before catching an Uber<br />
to our dinner reservation at The Cork and Craft. Located in an<br />
unassuming business park, this hidden gem cultivated by local<br />
talent shares space with urban winery Abnormal Wine Co. and<br />
craft brewery Abnormal Beer Co.<br />
Sunday<br />
We started the day with coffee in the room before heading back<br />
to Veranda for a patio brunch. While sipping on a fresh strawberry<br />
lavender lemonade, we decided to spend the day in the lush alcoves<br />
of the award-winning Rancho Bernardo Inn Spa. Its natural beauty<br />
was instantly therapeutic. Fragrant herbs, flowers, and fruits are<br />
freshly picked from the chef’s garden next door and used in spa<br />
treatments to create a truly grounding experience.<br />
We left feeling not only rejuvenated by our stay, but relieved that<br />
we can easily return—maybe even next weekend.<br />
OLIVIA HAYO<br />
36 ediblesandiego.com
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION<br />
Neighborhood Dining Guide<br />
These restaurants are either locally owned, passionate about local sourcing, or both. Enjoy a delicious meal<br />
and make sure to tell our advertisers that <strong>Edible</strong> <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> sent you!<br />
NORTH COUNTY<br />
MISSION BEACH<br />
POINT LOMA<br />
A.R. VALENTIEN<br />
A.R. VALENTIEN<br />
11480 North Torrey Pines Rd., La Jolla<br />
858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com/ar-valentien<br />
The Torrey Pines Lodge’s signature restaurant,<br />
A.R. Valentien, highlights regional <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
cuisine served in an elegant, timbered indooroutdoor<br />
dining room overlooking the 18th hole<br />
of Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive chef Jeff<br />
Jackson sources only the best local provisions,<br />
and the menu changes frequently based on<br />
seasonal fare available. The restaurant takes<br />
its name from a talented early-20th-century<br />
California artist whose works are exhibited<br />
throughout the restaurant.<br />
ESCOGELATO<br />
122 South Kalmia St., Escondido<br />
760-745-6500 • escogelato.com<br />
Located in the heart of Escondido, EscoGelato is<br />
made fresh daily using the highest quality ingredients<br />
and fresh fruit sourced from local farmers.<br />
The result is a luscious, super-creamy gelato that’s<br />
full of flavor. You will taste the difference. In addition<br />
to the main event, enjoy a nice selection of<br />
paninis, soups, salads, coffee, and tea.<br />
JUICE WAVE<br />
3733 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach<br />
858-488-0800 • juicewavesd.com<br />
What began as <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong>’s first organic juice truck now has<br />
two happy homes in Miramar and Mission Beach. Still, their<br />
commitment rings true: “Refresh and nourish the soul by<br />
using the best quality farm-fresh ingredients from local farms<br />
that reflect the radiant growing season in Southern California.”<br />
Check out their creatively named cleanses, like Lettuce<br />
Love, Turnip The Beet, and Kalefornia.<br />
OCEANA COASTAL KITCHEN<br />
3999 Mission Blvd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
858-539-8635 • catamaranresort.com/dining-entertainment/<br />
oceana-san-diego-restaurant<br />
Oceana Coastal Kitchen features chef-driven California cuisine<br />
and a modern, ocean-inspired design. Oceana offers bayfront<br />
dining at an iconic Pacific Beach hideaway. Executive<br />
chef Steven Riemer’s playful interpretations of classic dishes<br />
highlight the purity and flavors of California local produce<br />
and a commitment to sustainable ingredients. A cold bar with<br />
sushi options, small bites, and main dishes includes the freshest<br />
seafood available from the coast of Baja and the Pacific.<br />
SOLARE<br />
2820 Roosevelt Rd., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com<br />
Solare is an authentic Italian restaurant with a special<br />
focus on southern Italy and Sicily featuring a menu made<br />
with fresh ingredients selected daily. Blending modern<br />
and traditional tastes, the results are light and healthy<br />
dishes brimming with natural flavors. Complement your<br />
meal with one of 2,000 bottles of wine from the cellar or<br />
30 wines by the glass. Solare is committed to serving the<br />
cuisine of today, created with all the love and attention to<br />
detail from generations past.<br />
DOWNTOWN / LITTLE ITALY<br />
Bivouac Ciderworks<br />
3986 30th St., <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
619-725-0844 • bivouaccider.com<br />
As a center for experimentation and<br />
camaraderie, Bivouac Ciderworks<br />
is a welcome home for active, creative,<br />
and outdoorsy cider and food<br />
enthusiasts alike. Their goal is to inspire curiosity and<br />
foster a passion for what craft cider brings to the table.<br />
The outdoor-inspired tasting room, right in the heart of<br />
North Park, features a full menu of food options. Don’t<br />
miss the Impossible Burger, award-winning tuna poke,<br />
and vegan jackfruit sliders.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 37
LOCAL ATTRACTIONS |<br />
BY JONI PARMER<br />
CHECK THIS OUT<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Children’s<br />
Discovery Museum<br />
Remember watching Mrs. Frizzle<br />
on The Magic School Bus on Saturday<br />
mornings? This children’s museum is<br />
the magic school bus in living color,<br />
bringing scholastic entertainment<br />
to life with endless interactive<br />
opportunities for your kiddos to<br />
explore. With the massive Magnetic<br />
Ball Wall and Magnification Station<br />
to Farm Animal Friday and the<br />
museum's Nature Make & Take<br />
projects, you will be begging your<br />
toddler to head to Escondido for an<br />
educational adventure.<br />
Check the museum’s calendar for<br />
daily programs—and my favorite,<br />
World Culture Wednesdays—to travel<br />
the globe through fun stories, art, and<br />
engineering.<br />
General admission $8/person<br />
IN SEASON<br />
California Spiny<br />
Lobster<br />
California spiny lobster season runs<br />
October–March, but crustacean lovers<br />
throughout the states are hard-pressed<br />
to find this elusive favorite due to a<br />
high demand and price tag in overseas<br />
markets. Sweeter than their East Coast<br />
counterparts, these pincer-free bugs are<br />
soft in texture and delicate in flavor,<br />
allowing culinary creatives to go wild<br />
in the kitchen. Try yours at Mitch’s<br />
Seafood or get to the market early to<br />
take one home from Tuna Harbor<br />
Dockside Market. Both <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong><br />
establishments make a point of selling<br />
locally harvested seafood. Adventurous<br />
types can throw on<br />
some diving fins and<br />
try catching their<br />
own. It’s far more<br />
complicated than<br />
that, so beginners<br />
should do some<br />
research and<br />
find a buddy.<br />
Events<br />
JANUARY<br />
Every Saturday, 8am–1pm, rain or<br />
shine, visit the Tuna Harbor Dockside<br />
Market and get the freshest<br />
selection of <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> seafood<br />
direct from <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> fishermen.<br />
» thedocksidemarket.com<br />
Get an anniversary Teku glass and<br />
sample rare beers at the third<br />
anniversary party at Pure Project<br />
Brewing on Jan. 12 from 1–5pm.<br />
» purebrewing.org<br />
Farm to Fork <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> presents<br />
Local Libations Week, starting Jan.<br />
13 with the third annual BIGA Hog<br />
Roast. Deals at participating<br />
restaurants run through Jan. 19.<br />
» farmtoforksd.com<br />
<strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> Restaurant Week<br />
features specials from over 180<br />
participating restaurants for eight<br />
tantalizing days from Jan. 20–27.<br />
» sandiegorestaurantweek.com<br />
FEBRUARY<br />
Random Acts of Kindness Week<br />
is the third week of February, and<br />
we will be sharing ideas for you to<br />
spread kindness early in the month<br />
at ediblesandiego.com.<br />
Learn how to grow your farmers’<br />
market business at the InTents<br />
Conference reconvening for its third<br />
annual year Feb. 24–26.<br />
» intentsconference.com<br />
Farm school at Wild Willow Farm<br />
will offer a series of three classes on<br />
holistic winter orchard care taught by<br />
Paul Maschka Feb. 12, 19, and 26.<br />
» sandiegoroots.org<br />
38 ediblesandiego.com
Farmers’ Markets<br />
Monday<br />
Escondido—Welk Resort †<br />
8860 Lawrence Welk Dr.<br />
3–7pm, year-round<br />
760-651-3630<br />
Tuesday<br />
Coronado<br />
1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing<br />
2:30–6pm<br />
760-741-3763<br />
Escondido *<br />
Heritage Garden Park<br />
Juniper btwn Grand & Valley Pkwy.<br />
2:30–6pm<br />
760-480-4101<br />
Mira Mesa *<br />
10510 Reagan Rd.<br />
2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Otay Ranch—Chula Vista<br />
2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.<br />
4–8pm (3–7pm winter)<br />
619-279-0032<br />
Pacific Beach Tuesday *†<br />
Bayard & Garnet<br />
2–7:30pm (2–7pm fall-winter)<br />
619-233-3901<br />
UCSD Town Square<br />
UCSD Campus, Town Square<br />
10am–2pm, Sept to June<br />
858-534-4248<br />
Vail Headquarters *<br />
32115 Temecula Pkwy.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Wednesday<br />
Grantville<br />
4647 Zion Ave.<br />
Noon–4pm<br />
619-550-7180<br />
Little Italy Wednesday *†<br />
501 W. Date St.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
619-233-5009<br />
Ocean Beach<br />
4900 block of Newport Ave.<br />
4–7pm (4–8pm summer)<br />
619-279-0032<br />
People’s Produce Night Market *†<br />
1655 Euclid Ave.<br />
5–8pm<br />
619-813-9148<br />
<strong>San</strong>tee *†<br />
Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.<br />
3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter)<br />
619-449-8427<br />
State Street in Carlsbad Village<br />
State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr.<br />
3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter)<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Temecula—Promenade *<br />
40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Thursday<br />
Lemon Grove<br />
2885 Lemon Grove Ave.<br />
3–7pm<br />
619-813-9148<br />
Linda Vista *†<br />
6900 Linda Vista Rd.<br />
3–7pm (2–6pm winter)<br />
760-504-4363<br />
North Park Thursday *†<br />
North Park Way & 30th St.<br />
3–7:30pm, year-round<br />
619-550-7180<br />
Oceanside Morning *<br />
Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-791-3241<br />
Rancho Bernardo<br />
16535 Via Esprillo<br />
btwn Via Fontero & Via del Campo<br />
11am–2pm<br />
619-279-0032<br />
SDSU<br />
Campanile Walkway btwn Hepner Hall<br />
& Love Library<br />
10am–3pm, Sept to June<br />
www.clube3.org<br />
Sleeves Up Horton Plaza<br />
199 Horton Plaza<br />
10am–2pm<br />
619-481-4959<br />
Valley Center<br />
28246 Lilac Rd.<br />
3–7pm (2–6pm, Nov to Mar)<br />
vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail.com<br />
Friday<br />
Borrego Springs<br />
Christmas Circle Community Park<br />
7am–noon, Oct to May<br />
760-767-5555<br />
Horton Plaza †<br />
225 Broadway Circle<br />
11am–2pm<br />
619-795-3363<br />
Imperial Beach *†<br />
Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza<br />
2–7pm, Oct to Mar<br />
2–7:30pm, Apr to Sept<br />
info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org<br />
La Mesa Village *<br />
La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & Allison<br />
3–7pm, year-round<br />
619-550-7180<br />
Mission Valley *† NEW!<br />
Civita Park<br />
7960 Civita Blvd.<br />
3–7pm<br />
760-504-4363<br />
Rancho Bernardo Winery<br />
13330 Paseo del Verano Norte<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-500-1709<br />
Saturday<br />
City Heights *†!<br />
On Wightman St. btwn Fairmount &<br />
43rd St.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-580-0116<br />
Del Mar<br />
1050 Camino Del Mar<br />
1–4pm<br />
858-465-0013<br />
Kearny Mesa NEW!<br />
8725 Ariva Ct.<br />
9:30am–1:30pm<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Little Italy Mercato *†<br />
600 W. Date St.<br />
8am–2pm<br />
619-233-3901<br />
Pacific Beach<br />
4150 Mission Blvd.<br />
8am–noon<br />
760-741-3763<br />
Poway *<br />
Old Poway Park<br />
14134 Midland Rd. at Temple<br />
8am–1pm<br />
619-249-9395<br />
Rancho Penasquitos YMCA<br />
9400 Fairgrove Lane &<br />
Salmon River Rd.<br />
9am–1pm<br />
858-484-8788<br />
Temecula—Old Town *<br />
Sixth & Front St., Old Town<br />
8am–12:30pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
Vista *†<br />
325 Melrose Dr., South of Hwy 78<br />
8am–1pm<br />
760-945-7425<br />
Sunday<br />
Allied Gardens Sunday<br />
Lewis Middle School<br />
5170 GreenBrier Ave.<br />
10am–2pm<br />
858-568-6291, 619-865-6574<br />
Hillcrest *<br />
3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts.<br />
9am–2pm<br />
619-237-1632<br />
La Jolla Open Aire<br />
Girard Ave. & Genter<br />
9am–1:30pm<br />
858-454-1699<br />
Leucadia *<br />
185 Union St. & Vulcan St.<br />
10am–2pm<br />
858-272-7054<br />
Murrieta *<br />
Village Walk Plaza<br />
I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/Kalmia<br />
9am–1pm<br />
760-728-7343<br />
North <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> / Sikes Adobe †<br />
12655 Sunset Dr., Escondido<br />
10:30am–3:30pm, year-round<br />
858-735-5311<br />
Rancho <strong>San</strong>ta Fe Del Rayo Village<br />
16079 <strong>San</strong> Dieguito Rd.<br />
9:30am–2pm<br />
619-743-4263<br />
<strong>San</strong>ta Ysabel<br />
Hwy 78 & 79<br />
21887 Washington St.<br />
Noon–4pm<br />
760-782-9202<br />
Solana Beach<br />
410 to 444 South Cedros Ave.<br />
Noon–4pm<br />
858-755-0444<br />
* Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks)<br />
† Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer)<br />
! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC<br />
Fruit and Vegetable Checks.<br />
All <strong>San</strong> <strong>Diego</strong> County markets listed except SDSU and Seeds @ City are<br />
certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner.<br />
Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete<br />
information and links to farmers’ market websites.<br />
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 39
PREP |<br />
BY MARIA HESSE<br />
How to<br />
Conquer<br />
the<br />
Spaghetti<br />
Squash<br />
Tempted by the Pinterest-pretty<br />
carb-free pictures of roasted halves of<br />
spaghetti squash (Curcurbita pepo) forked<br />
into appetizing strings that look like guiltless<br />
spaghetti, you start by following blog<br />
directions that insist “it’s so simple” and<br />
preheat your oven to 350°.<br />
To prep the squash, you proceed to<br />
cut the squash in half—or, at least try<br />
to cut the squash in half. In 10 minutes’<br />
time, your heart rate is up and you’ve<br />
nearly missed severing three fingers.<br />
There’s nothing in that blog about what<br />
to do if cutting a spaghetti squash open<br />
is like sawing through concrete with your<br />
bare hands, but you got this. About 40<br />
minutes later, that sucker is halved, seeds<br />
removed, set on a baking sheet, rubbed<br />
down with extra-virgin olive oil, and salt<br />
and peppered. You’re panting, but it’s<br />
ready to go in the oven.<br />
The timer is set for 30 minutes and<br />
now you wait, hanxious (hungry and<br />
anxious) for your hard work to deliver a<br />
golden roasted pasta substitute packed<br />
with potassium and beta-carotene. The<br />
timer goes off and you pull the sheet pan<br />
out of the oven and start at the squash<br />
with a fork. But nothing’s happening. It’s<br />
not turning into pasta like magic because<br />
it looks raw, no golden brown roasting<br />
marks in sight. You put it back in the<br />
oven and set the timer for 15 minutes.<br />
Blast, it’s still raw—and looking a little<br />
dry. You burn your hand adding a little<br />
more olive oil and it goes back in the<br />
oven. You sit intensely in front of the<br />
window watching for this thing to turn<br />
perfect like it’s your final bake. Another<br />
45 minutes and it’s ready, but you’re not<br />
hungry because you snacked on a pack<br />
of cookies and ate all the chips with salsa<br />
during that extra hour.<br />
Next time, conquer the spaghetti<br />
squash by preheating your oven to 425°.<br />
Rinse under cool water and dry the entire<br />
squash to remove any dirt and debris.<br />
Pierce the skin four times with a fork<br />
and toss the squash into the oven on a<br />
cookie sheet. That’s right, you’re baking<br />
it whole. Bake smaller squash for about<br />
40 minutes, up to an hour for a larger<br />
squash, and flip the squash over halfway<br />
through cook time for even baking. You<br />
can tell it’s done when the squash feels<br />
soft under the push of a wooden spoon.<br />
Remove and cool the squash enough to<br />
handle with a hot pad or glove, about 5 to<br />
10 minutes. Effortlessly slip a chef’s knife<br />
right through the center, end to end, and<br />
stand back to let it steam once it’s opened.<br />
Use a metal spoon to easily scoop out the<br />
seeds, and pull with a fork to separate the<br />
squash into al dente strands. No handsawing<br />
required.<br />
Toss the squash with a little salt, pepper,<br />
grated romano, and olive oil to serve<br />
cacio e pepe style, or incorporate into<br />
another favorite pasta recipe.<br />
40 ediblesandiego.com
WINTER <strong>2019</strong> | edible SAN DIEGO 3
4 ediblesandiego.com