Selwyn Times: March 03, 2021
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<strong>Selwyn</strong> <strong>Times</strong> Wednesday <strong>March</strong> 3 <strong>2021</strong><br />
26<br />
WINE<br />
• By Mark Henderson<br />
I’VE HAD A soft spot for<br />
Hawke’s Bay syrah since<br />
stumbling upon the Stonecroft<br />
cellar door some 30 years ago<br />
and discovering the 1989 syrah:<br />
the inception wine of our<br />
modern syrah category in New<br />
Zealand.<br />
Thirty vintages later, a combination<br />
of vine age, new clonal<br />
material and a wealth of experience<br />
garnered by the winemakers<br />
is seeing some thrilling<br />
offerings.<br />
The vintage of 2018 was warm,<br />
yet not totally trouble-free, but<br />
these labels have risen to the<br />
occasion with wines of depth,<br />
interest and potential.<br />
2018 Smith & Sheth Cru<br />
Heretaunga syrah<br />
Price: $40<br />
Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />
Fragrant nose, dusty, riverstones,<br />
white pepper,earth/forest<br />
floor, red fruits.<br />
A cool feel, fresh and<br />
vibrant, ripe yet not over-sweet,<br />
with deceptive tannins that build<br />
up.<br />
Garners a silkiness as it opens;<br />
I could plump for northern<br />
Rhone here.<br />
Complex, interesting, lovely<br />
balance, drinking superbly, yet<br />
potential too. Elegant.<br />
2018 Smith & Sheth Cru<br />
Omahu syrah<br />
Price: $60<br />
Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />
Subtle yet refined nose with<br />
earthy touches and a herbal<br />
influence, gathering florality as it<br />
grows perceptibly. Fruit richness<br />
(blackberry, boysenberry,<br />
raspberry) along with spices,<br />
earthiness and powerful tannins,<br />
crisp, fresh, the fruit hanging in<br />
the mouth.<br />
For now, this is wound up and<br />
tightly structured and all about<br />
the potential.<br />
www.smithandsheth.com<br />
2018 Stonecroft Gimblett<br />
Gravels Reserve syrah<br />
Price: $60<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />
Rising to the occasion with depth and potential<br />
Boldly fruited nose, a wisp of<br />
brown paper evolves to fruit,<br />
savoury notes and a musk/<br />
dark flowers nuance. Density<br />
to the dark fruits, adding cedar,<br />
savoury notes, spices and black<br />
pepper.<br />
Chewiness as the tannins<br />
build. With aeration, a tight core<br />
of mineral/iron develops as the<br />
wine becomes tightly coiled.<br />
Excellent carry and great<br />
romise.<br />
www.stonecroft.co.nz<br />
2018 Trinity Hill Homage<br />
Price: $150<br />
Rating: Outstanding<br />
Boldly expressive perfume,<br />
shifting to ink, blood, iron, tar<br />
and savoury elements.<br />
Richness yet refinement, lovely<br />
balance, purity of fruit and layers<br />
of flavour.<br />
Powerful yet rounded, ripe<br />
tannins with a long zesty carry<br />
that is almost cleansing.<br />
Approachable, but gas in the<br />
tank for the future.<br />
Wonderful complexity and<br />
poise. Compelling.<br />
www.trinityhill.com<br />
2018 Vidal Legacy<br />
Gimblett Gravels syrah<br />
Price: $79.99<br />
Rating: Excellent<br />
Wild and funky nose, struck<br />
match, earth, growing perfume,<br />
fruit in support.<br />
Juicy and crunchy, bright<br />
acidity lending a zesty tang to<br />
the close.<br />
This grows with aeration, ripe<br />
fruits mixing with toasty and<br />
savoury nuances before growing<br />
tannins add a lightly chewy note<br />
to the close.<br />
Its approachability makes<br />
this easy to overlook yet there’s<br />
deceptive interest here.<br />
www.vidal.co.nz<br />
2018 Elephant Hill Stone<br />
syrah<br />
Price: $120<br />
Rating: Excellent to outstanding<br />
Vibrantly fragrant nose, herbs,<br />
jam/berry compote, raspberry<br />
and spices evolving.<br />
Powerfully fruited palate adds<br />
gravel, tar, charcuterie/savoury<br />
nuances and a little hint of salinity.<br />
This is a bit of a bruiser for<br />
now, lots of complexity but it is<br />
a big, dense wine crying out for<br />
some age.<br />
Time will be a friend<br />
here.<br />
www.elephanthill.co.nz<br />
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