TLP: Now, the places. Some of your photos that we are showingin the Magazine present the monuments of the EasternRoztocze. One of them is the Count Łosia's Palace in Narol. Iadmit that I don't know much about this place. What's its story,is it worth visiting?KK: The Palace in Narol is the most beautiful palace in the wholeRoztocze. Some consider it an undiscovered architectural gem ofPoland. It was built in the mid-18th century on the initiative ofAntoni Feliks, on the plan of a horseshoe - the Łosias' coat ofarms. The building is situated on a hill. It consists of a mainrectangular building connected by semi-circular facades with twosmaller side pavilions. Antoni was an art lover and he managed togather a large collection. There was also a drama and musicschool educating artistically gifted youth. Unfortunately, thepalace had also some tragic episodes – it was burned down,plundered and its life ended for many years by the Soviets. It hasbeen trying to recover from the ruins since the war, and it hasbeen doing very well in recent years. Currently, you can enter itssite, but the works are still ongoing. In the past, there was abeautiful garden behind the palace - now, only some monumentalold trees remained there. The road to Podlesina, planted withchestnuts so willingly photographed during flowering andautumn, is an extension of the palace axis. Despite the lack ofinterior decoration, the palace attracts tourists from all overPoland as it is one of the most famous attractions of theEastern Roztocze.TLP: Sacred buildings seem to be an indispensable part of theRoztocze landscape. Although we do not show many of them, onthis occasion, they are definitely worth mentioning. One of theseobjects is the dome of St. Joseph the Worker Church (formerlythe Orthodox Church of St. George) from 1910, another anOrthodox Church in Radruż entered on the UNESCO WorldHeritage List. Do you think sacred buildings constitute animportant cultural element of this region? Are they an importanttourist attraction?KK: Orthodox and Catholic churches dominate the landscape ofRoztocze and their domes, visible from a distance, are aninteresting landscape element, worth photographing. Theabove-mentioned dome of the church located in Werchrata -emerging from the fields blooming with rapeseed - is an unusualframe - a unique view, influencing the definition of Werchrata asthe pearl of Roztocze. The main attraction of the region iscertainly the Orthodox church complex in Radruż with theOrthodox church of St. Paraskeva. This Orthodox church isconsidered to be the oldest wooden temple of the Eastern rite inPoland. It is surrounded by a wall that used to be defensive andthere is a high bell tower next to the church. The SubcarpathianWooden Architecture Trail with its Lubaczów - Roztocze sectionmight be an interesting journey into the past.A visit to a dark Orthodox church, smelling of old wood, withbeautiful iconostases and unusual acoustics is an extraordinaryexperience. For me, churches are an element that in some way,apart from stonework and roadside crosses, defines the EasternRoztocze and its specific atmosphere.TLP: Staying with the sacred and at the same time historicalthemes - such presence of various types of sacred objects mayprove the affection of the inhabitants of this land to tradition,and at the same time it is a kind of historical monument.Nowadays, there are not as many dissenters in this area asthere used to be before the second world war. There are almostno Jews anymore, not many Orthodox.KK: Before the war, the area of Eastern Roztocze was a mix ofnumerous cultures. Poles, Ukrainians, Jews and even Germansettlers lived here in harmony - each of the nations with theirown separate culture and, above all, religion. Hence, there arelots of both Catholic and Orthodox churches as well assynagogues from which those in Cieszanów, Wielkie Oczy andStary Dzików remained. This mix can now be touched by visitingold cemeteries such as those in Stare Bruśno or Stara Huta,where tombstones written in Cyrillic and Polish are mixedtogether. In Lubaczów, there is the only still existing Jewishcemetery with beautiful matzevahs. What all these religions hadin common, is the stone from the quarry under Mount Bruśno,from which it was mined. Self-taught artists who wrote thehistory of the region in their products lived in Stare Bruśno -the largest stone centre in Roztocze. They delight not only incemeteries as stone crosses fit into the landscape at theroadsides and in forests.TLP: What's the story of the Eastern Roztocze? It is probablynot an 'easy' story, devoid of often dramatic events?KK: The history is downright dramatic and certainly influencedby the fact that the region, from the tourist perspective, isbeing discovered only now. During the war, the occupiersbrutally dealt with the large Jewish population living in theseareas.There used to be ghettos, deportations to extermination camps.Already during the war, the Polish-Ukrainian conflict intensified.The neighbours became enemies, families turned on each other.The times were tragic when UON-UPA bands used to prowl thearea. The buildings of most towns and villages were burnt.Villages and their inhabitants literally perished. The solution wasthe Operation Vistula and resettlement. After them, dozens ofvillages and hamlets disappeared from the map and landscape,numerous Orthodox churches got deserted and fell into ruin,and this history became a taboo subject. However, many yearshave passed since those dramatic events and now thegeneration that I represent treats those times as a sad episodethat cannot be forgotten but which also cannot block ourdevelopment.40 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
A roadside shrine in Wola Wielka. Photo: Krystian Kłysewicz | Imagine Pictures41 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND
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