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Times of the Islands Summer 2021

Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.

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We chatted with people at Sandy Point and <strong>the</strong>n our<br />

“trans man” Zander drove us to Horse Stable Beach where<br />

we walked <strong>the</strong> beach and marvelled over <strong>the</strong> shells and<br />

<strong>the</strong> stillness. As <strong>the</strong> sun descended perilously close to <strong>the</strong><br />

horizon, <strong>the</strong> no-seeums began to hunt <strong>the</strong>ir large human<br />

prey, so we headed over to Susan Butterfield’s for supper.<br />

For some reason, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r five were able to spend<br />

<strong>the</strong> night at a friend’s house that could only take five.<br />

We heard that someone had a place where one person<br />

could sleep and that’s where I spent <strong>the</strong> night. I got up at<br />

5:15 Tuesday morning to wait for trans that never came.<br />

Fortunately!<br />

How Willis Taylor knew my situation, I don’t know, but<br />

he came by and said he was heading to Pine Cay by motor<br />

boat from Bellefield Landing. Would I like to come? Well,<br />

yes! Broad smiles all around. His two teenage sons straddled<br />

one bicycle, he ano<strong>the</strong>r, and my place was behind<br />

him.<br />

Off we rattled on <strong>the</strong> gravel road under pedal power.<br />

The last half mile or so veered down a steep hill, and we<br />

plunged down at a mad pace, me holding on to him. Willis<br />

knew and steered around every pothole and in no time we<br />

arrived at <strong>the</strong> low tide water, and he and <strong>the</strong> boys tucked<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir bikes away in <strong>the</strong> underbrush.<br />

We loaded ourselves and our belongings into <strong>the</strong> skiff<br />

that had a huge pile <strong>of</strong> netting in <strong>the</strong> stern. Willis showed<br />

me his lunch bag that contained several whelks he’d collected<br />

from <strong>the</strong> north side <strong>of</strong> Dellis Cay—his wife had<br />

boiled <strong>the</strong>m for him earlier that morning. The engine<br />

came to life and we headed out across <strong>the</strong> flats. I’d be<br />

home for breakfast.<br />

Suddenly, <strong>the</strong> boy at <strong>the</strong> bow pointed ahead and <strong>of</strong>f to<br />

<strong>the</strong> port side. “Bonefish!” I didn’t see anything, but Willis<br />

immediately steered over to an area several hundred feet<br />

away, and as we approached I could see <strong>the</strong> water alive<br />

with large silvery fish, lots <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, just below <strong>the</strong> surface.<br />

I looked at Willis who gave me a little frown. “We<br />

have to stop for <strong>the</strong>se,” he said. The work day starts now.<br />

He threw <strong>the</strong> anchor over and he and his sons leapt<br />

into <strong>the</strong> waist-deep water, carrying <strong>the</strong> huge net. Within<br />

minutes, <strong>the</strong> two boys carried one end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> net in one<br />

direction towards <strong>the</strong> school <strong>of</strong> fish and Willis carried <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r end in <strong>the</strong> opposite direction until eventually <strong>the</strong><br />

net formed a large circle that trapped many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fish<br />

inside. All three began catching <strong>the</strong> two- and three-foot<br />

long fish with <strong>the</strong>ir hands, giving <strong>the</strong> necks a quick twist<br />

and tossing <strong>the</strong>m into <strong>the</strong> boat.<br />

“You, too,” Willis, worried look on his face, motioned<br />

to me to give <strong>the</strong>m a hand. Really? Okay, I could do this!<br />

Into <strong>the</strong> den <strong>of</strong> circling fish I slid. “Break <strong>the</strong>ir necks if<br />

you can, o<strong>the</strong>rwise, just throw <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> boat,” he said.<br />

Okay. I’d caught smelt (seven inches long) in Ontario with<br />

my bare hands, I could do this! Well, this was different,<br />

and I wasn’t a big help but I did add a few to <strong>the</strong> several<br />

piling up in <strong>the</strong> skiff. I didn’t have <strong>the</strong> know-how to snap<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir necks, though.<br />

Those guys moved FAST! The excitement lasted all <strong>of</strong><br />

fifteen minutes. The boys carefully walked <strong>the</strong> net back in,<br />

folding it just so, so that it would be ready at a moment’s<br />

notice again. At least fifty bonefish. A good haul, a good<br />

hunt. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m he would sell to <strong>the</strong> Meridian Club on<br />

Pine Cay. Calm now, he weighed anchor and steered <strong>the</strong><br />

boat and cargo back on course over <strong>the</strong> milky turquoise<br />

flats.<br />

The next day, I ran into Willis on Pine Cay and he gave<br />

me a slow warm smile and slight nod <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> head. Not<br />

long after, I somehow wound up on ano<strong>the</strong>r bonefishing<br />

trip with him, and “we” captured over eighty. He said I was<br />

his good luck charm.<br />

No, Willis, you were mine. How many people can say<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have been bonefishing <strong>the</strong> traditional time-immemorial<br />

way? a<br />

Diane “Dee” Taylor lived and worked for three years on<br />

Pine Cay with her husband Gary Hodgkins in <strong>the</strong> early<br />

1980s. They worked with PRIDE (Protection <strong>of</strong> Reefs and<br />

<strong>Islands</strong> from Degradation and Exploitation) under <strong>the</strong><br />

direction <strong>of</strong> Chuck Hesse.<br />

She teaches memoir writing and has published The<br />

Gift <strong>of</strong> Memoir: Show Up, Open Up, Write. She is part<br />

<strong>of</strong> Spirit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Hills Writers. For more information, visit<br />

https://dianemtaylor.com.<br />

36 www.timespub.tc

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