SLO LIFE Magazine AugSep 2021

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neat, and Kroener shares something so obvious that I’m a little embarrassed to have not realized it myself, but that’s what I get for sticking to breweries. There is a magical proof number that has historical significance, Navy Proof. At 114 proof, or 57% ABV, this is the sweet spot where salty consumers could test their purchase before buying. Add a few grains of gunpowder to pure rum, use a magnifying glass to light it, and if it just barely lit it was “proof,” unlit and it was under-proof, exploding into a fiery ball and it was over-proof. A great way to test that you’re not being overcharged for watered down rum and as a bonus it ensured your kegs of gunpowder stayed viable in case your rum barrels leaked in the ship’s hold. Fascinating history lesson aside, these boozy bottles are perfect for cocktails. I love a good cocktail, but rarely use a premium hooch because you’re tasting more of the mixer and diluting the spirit much as you would by adding water. By using a high-proof spirit in a cocktail, you’re able to taste the complexities and won’t lose the investment you made in that nice bottle. I’m furiously taking notes since Kroener talks as fast as he moves and we’re already being led over to a barrel where he’s removing the bung and inserting a “whiskey thief ” to pull samples of a young, heavily proofed whiskey. There is just a touch of color showing partially from the short life in the barrel and partially due to the previous product that was remaining in the wood. This “devil’s cut” is the whiskey that was absorbed into the wood and remained there until another liquid, in this case the newest batch, is introduced and absorbed into the wood. As the barrel breathes the liquids exchange and the process continues throughout the life of the barrel. I’m thoroughly enjoying my sample which tastes syrupy sweet and is deceptively enjoyable even at 114 proof. KROBĀR offers standard strength spirits at 80 proof much like the majority of bottles you would find off the shelf in any store, but they also produce a lot of offerings at 90, 92, and 114 proof. I’ve heard that our palate cannot perceive flavors past 70 proof and it’s recommended to add a few drops of water to bring the numbers down to that level. Seizing an opportunity to ask this of a professional, I’m immediately schooled in a way that will change my spirit drinking for the rest of my life. Kroener breaks it down first by addressing water and the differences in tap, reverse osmosis, distilled, and frozen. R.O. water is stripped of all minerals leaving only hydrogen and oxygen atoms, tap is similar but with the addition of some purifying chemicals such as chlorine, and ice is just one of those with the addition of possibly blocking some flavors and aromas achieved through a room temperature spirit while diluting it. Distilled water is their choice in the distilling process as it leaves some minerality for the alcohol to bind with. As for higher proofs, it is a matter of personal taste preference and ability to perceive flavors, so one can have a higher ABV with their drink if they enjoy it. As professionals, we are able to still pull nuances from the offerings. Kroener and I both enjoy ours either neat (no ice/water) or with the addition of a cooling agent that does not dilute the spirit, such as a whiskey stone, small cubes carved from soapstone. He goes one step further by citing molecular biology and that the addition of water can make off-flavors more pronounced. No more water in scotch for me! That’s all good and well for the 80-92 proof beverages, but what about those triple-digit spirits? They taste fantastic, but the heat coming off them makes you wonder if you’ll be curled up in bed for the entirety of the following day. I ask about these, albeit after drinking a few Kroener’s vast knowledge of barrels is impressive but also highlights his twenty-five years of experience in wine making. He explains which types of wood are used (American whiskey uses American oak) and the various merits and flavors imparted by the use of new barrels, triple charred barrels, second use barrels, and more. Sadly but mercifully, he leads us away from the wood and over to the metal. Kroener talks fast and my notes are garbage, getting more illegible as we proceed. Thankfully, he takes us over to the centerpieces of the whole operation, the glistening copper stills. Apparently, they keep getting bigger as his operation has ramped up from workshop experiments into full-fledged operations over two locations. His pride and joy, however, is an absolute work of art and his own design. Hand-rolled and hammered copper forms the imposing tower before us. I couldn’t keep up with the design processes and lexicon, but I did come away with more respect for the difficulty in not only sourcing the craftsmen that still make these, but the science behind the design. The large column collects the vapors, the contact with copper purifies it while adding character, and it has to be just the right size and shape. Too small and there’s not enough surface area, too large and the vapors will not concentrate correctly. Add on to that the copper itself is actually lost in the process to the point where it will eventually eat through the still’s walls. Amazing stuff and a testament to the art form that is distilling. Head swimming with knowledge, yeah, knowledge, we head back to the tasting room and sit down to the flight. Kroener makes his own candied nuts, a great palate cleanser between those four gins and one rum I was ogling earlier. I work my way down the line, no stranger to tasting flights, going from the mildest to the strongest. The four gins are all vastly different, one has butterfly pea flower, the next a mix of five citrus, then the Navy Strength chock full of botanical aromas, finally the bourbon barrel aged gin with that smoky vanillin char, and lastly the Navy Strength Golden Rum aged for three years in bourbon and rye barrels for a delectably rich molasses nose. Meaney and I both being gin and tonic fans, determine that the strong gin is amazing and would be a great GnT addition to our liquor cabinets, but we could drink the Butterfly Gin neat any day of the week. It was a great break from beers to be able to experience a new addition to the growing family of craft producers in San Luis Obispo and get a behind-the-scenes experience with someone that can impart a vast portfolio of knowledge. I not only came away with a few bottles, but some information that I can share with you and better enjoy my next quaff. I recommend heading over after work and grabbing a curated cocktail or lining up a flight of tasters to experience KROBĀR for yourself. Also, if you think I left without walking across the parking lot for a cold beer and some billiards, you clearly don’t know me. So check out this new spot and stay a while. Raise a glass and say it with me, Slàinte Mhath! SLO LIFE TODD MEANEY is a landscape, product, and lifestyle photographer living the SLO Life with his brewery-loving Great Dane. 94 | SLO LIFE MAGAZINE | AUG/SEP 2021
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SLO LIFE Magazine AugSep 2021

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