British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

explore the british isles 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 | ISSUE 10 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

SUSTAINABLE 

GOURMET FOOD 

THE MICHELIN GREEN STAR 

MOUNTAINS 

AND PINES 

CLEAN CRISP AIR AND 

BREATHTAKING VIEWS 

PLUS: SKIING IN 

THE HIGHLANDS, 

ENGLISH WHISKY, 

VINEYARDS OF THE 

SURREY HILLS AND 

MUCH MORE 

£6.75 

VIBRANT CITIES 

FROM BOAT-LINED CANALS 

TO GRAND PALACES 

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Discover your own island adventure 

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Go to visitalderney.com or call 01481 822333 

For latest COVID-19 travel guidance go to GOV.GG

CONTRIBUTIONS 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah, 

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, 

Emma O’Reilly, Lydia Paleschi, 

Adrienne Wyper 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Loch an Eilein at Rothiemurchus 

Scotland's Cairngorms National Park 

©VisitScotland/Kenny Lam 

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@BritishTravelJournal 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

WITH COMPLEXITIES around overseas 

travel still hanging in the air and 

globetrotters continuing to place their 

plans to visit more exotic far-flung 

destinations on hold for something closer to home, much of 

the British Isles has experienced its busiest summer on record. 

For a relatively small island full of adventure-seekers exploring our 

countryside and coastline, some hotels, restaurants and landmarks, 

(especially those in popular tourist spots) have struggled to cope. 

Managing numbers in a staycation boom can be hard enough; add 

the difficulties of staying COVID-safe while abiding by restrictions, 

and favoured honeypots like Cornwall have even had to resort to 

urging tourists to ‘stay away’. 

If you have been lucky enough to travel to some of these 

destinations this year, you will know that booking in advance now 

comes as standard. If you want to stay overnight, be seated in a 

restaurant, or visit an attraction it's mandatory – even breakfast slots 

and swim times must be pre-planned. But what about our cities and 

other beauty spots, the ones that can still cope with visitors? 

London, for example – why not avoid the crowds and queues on a 

city break to our capital or one of our other vibrant cities, p78? 

Catch a performance at Stratford-upon-Avon, p40, head to the 

breathtaking mountains of Scotland, p20, or visit its capital city, 

Edinburgh for a taste of its flourishing new food scene, p92. 

Food and drink is a theme throughout this issue, from our 

interview with Tom Kerridge, p26, to the prestigious new accolade 

for planet-conscious cooking, p32, the rise of English Whisky, p70, 

and new premium wine region, the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills, p16. 

I have personally traded Devon’s beaches for culture and 

picturesque waterways, staying in the heart of its historic city, 

Exeter, p86, and I enjoyed a countryside weekender at Goodwood, 

‘England’s greatest sporting estate’, p64. 

Together with our regular Travel News, p9, and cosy Autumn 

Stays, p47, I hope this issue helps you plan with confidence, 

discovering less busy but equally charming places to visit. 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

SHORTLISTED 

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CONTENTS 

AUTUMN/WINTER 2021 | ISSUE 10 

— 

20 

16 

COMPETITION 

23 

WIN A HOLIDAY 

TO CORNWALL 

STAYING IN A LUXURY 

WATERSIDE TOWNHOUSE... 

Don’t miss your chance to win a 

luxury three-night stay, courtesy 

of Cornish Gems, to Cornwall’s 

newest and most desirable 

waterside destination. North 

Quay Beach House is set within 

the striking scenery of the Hayle 

estuary, with World Heritage 

Status, a beautiful sandy beach 

and picturesque harbour, plus 

three more miles of golden 

sands stretching from Hayle 

Towans to Godrevy and the 

striking lighthouse. 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Reignite your passion for travel this 

autumn with our selection of what's new from 

hotels, restaurants, and visitor attractions 

across the British Isles 

10 OF THE BEST AUTUMN 

47 STAYS 

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and 

these places are certainly that – but they also 

have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe 

STYLE EDITS 

63 Travel souvenirs and gifts lovingly 

made for the discerning traveller 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Bookshelf and crossword 

FEATURES 

16 

GRAPE MINDS THINK ALIKE 

Meet the five passionate producers 

who have come together to form a new 

premium wine region: the Vineyards of the 

Surrey Hills 

SKIING IN THE HIGHLANDS 

20Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of 

peaks and pines, miles of pure white snow – 

and you don’t have to leave the UK 

26 

MY CULINARY JOURNEY 

TOM KERRIDGE 

Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin 

stars, Tom Kerridge reflects on his stratospheric 

success and his 2021 new launch 

70 

ENGLISH WHISKY 

Discover the English distillers 

showing they can compete with 

Scotland's most famous export 

à 


40 

E D I T O R L O V E S DESTINATIONS 

Engineered from lightweight 

leather, Hoka's hiking shoes 

support feet without the bulk of 

a boot; suitable for adventures 

in the great outdoors – Women’s 

Anacapa Mid GTX, priced £150 

hokaoneone.eu 

Live your best life with a Cosmo 

Communicator clamshell Android 

smartphone – a nostalgic piece of 

tech with a full physical keyboard, 

combining the productivity of a 

laptop with the functionality of a 

modern smartphone. Perfect for 

frequent on-the-go travel lovers, 

priced £601 

planetcom.co.uk 

COMPETITION 

WIN A FOODIE 

91 BREAK TO EXETER, 

INCLUDING LUNCH OR 

DINNER AT HARRY'S, AND 

ROCKFISH RESTAURANTS 

Indulge yourself at some 

of Exeter’s most renowned 

restaurants, with this fantastic 

two-night foodie break staying 

at the Jury's Inn. Experience 

Exeter’s 2,000 years of 

history, its beautiful quayside, 

and top eateries serving the 

best of Devon’s food and 

drink. 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com 

WALKING TOUR OF 

40 STRATFORD-UPON-AVON 

Visit Stratford-upon-Avon to catch a 

performance of one of Shakespeare’s plays 

or take a boat on the river 

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL 

56 In search of an idyllic private island 

with magical charm, blessed with exotic plants, 

translucent seas and endless amounts of golden 

sand? Spend your days exploring ruined castles, 

discovering shipwreck tales 

48 HOURS AT THE 

64 GOODWOOD ESTATE 

With acres of nature walks, sustainable farming, 

new wellness experiences, spa, and divine 

mouth-watering home-grown food, a stay at 

the Goodwood Hotel has more delights besides 

its renowned vintage cars, planes and worldfamous 

annual festivals 

64 

78 

VIBRANT CITIES TO VISIT 

78 THIS AUTUMN 

This is the ideal time to visit one of Britain's great 

cities. The summer crowds have dispersed and 

there’s always a cute café, a diverting shop or a 

fascinating museum beckoning you in, should 

the weather turn 

48 HOURS IN EXETER 

86 Thought holidays to Devon were mostly 

about seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s 

time to leave behind the beach towels and flip 

flops and prepare for a cultural city-break like no 

other. Exeter might be small, but it is perfectly 

formed, with world-class museums, excellent 

food, beautiful new hotels, historic streets, 

and picturesque waterways 

EDINBURGH’S NEW FOOD 

92 AND DRINK EXPERIENCES 

Scotland’s capital has come to life after months of 

pandemic hibernation, and the delicious news for 

visitors is that there are some brand new dining 

and drinking establishments to welcome them 

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LOOKING AHEAD... 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Reignite your passion for travel this autumn with our selection of what's 

new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the British Isles 

SOMERSET 

The Newt, Beezantium 

You can now see the world from a bee's-eye view at 

the brand new Beezantium at The Newt – a first-ofits-kind 

experience for the UK. Watch the colonies at 

work, smell the aroma of the hive, hear their contented 

hum and see honey produced in real time. Beezantium 

has been designed to highlight the importance of bees 

and their contribution to the planet. Within its giant 

honeycomb walls are interesting facts and literature 

about bees from all over the world, along with flower 

pressings showing the types of honey produced 

from specific plants on the estate. Why not take the 

opportunity for a Bee Safari – a private walking tour of 

the woodland hives, providing more insight into The 

Newt’s own beekeeping practices. ◆ 

thenewtinsomerset.com 

SCOTLAND 

Highland Kings Ultra, Scotland’s west coast 

The world’s most luxurious and exclusive ultrarun is about to launch in Scotland – an opportunity 

to join the first group of 40 athletes from around the world to tackle 120 miles of Scotland’s 

spectacular West Coast wilderness. Included in the programme, which costs £15,499 to enter, is lavish 

accommodation, speedboat transfers and seven months of personal mentoring. After a gruelling 

running challenge, which includes an ascent of 10,000 feet from Glencoe to the Isle of Arran across 

four days, you're treated to the finest in extravagant aftercare, including treatments from on-site masseurs, 

as well as a chance to enjoy relaxation space in an athletes’ lounge and award-winning cuisine. Named 

after Scottish kings Kenneth McAlpin, Alexander III and Robert the Bruce who helped to shape the 

region, the event will culminate with a gala dinner hosted by legendary explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes. ◆ 

highland-kings.com 


LONDON 

The White Garden, 

Kensington 

Not only did the Queen’s Buckingham 

Palace Gardens open to visitors for 

the first time in history this summer, 

Kensington Palace gardeners transformed 

The Sunken Garden into The White 

Garden in memory of Diana, Princess of 

Wales. During her time at Kensington 

Palace Diana was particularly fond of The 

Sunken Garden. The unveiling of the new 

Princess Diana Statue by Prince William 

and Prince Harry took place on 1 July, 

the day which would have been Princess 

Diana’s 60th birthday. The statue can be 

viewed from the Cradle Walk. ◆ 

hrp.org.uk 

LONDON 

The Footman Mayfair 

One of the oldest pubs in London, The Footman Mayfair has been totally 

redesigned following a six-figure investment. The elegant and stylish 

refurbishment has modernised the popular pub and restaurant, while 

keeping its original charm. The Footman has been in place since 1749 – 

originally called The Running Horse, it was frequented by the footmen 

who were in service to the households of Mayfair. They would run 

ahead of their master’s coaches, paying any tolls in advance and 

clearing a safe passage ahead. As the fashion for footmen dwindled, 

one bought the pub and named it after himself. Often the source of 

the best gossip, the pub soon became well known. ◆ 

thefootmanmayfair.com 

Don't miss 

Art Pass Unbooked, launched by Art Fund 

This new smart tool brings together hundreds of smaller museums and galleries 

in one place, allowing culture lovers to find what is nearby, and book there and 

then, avoiding the queues at the bigger institutions. unbooked.artfund.org 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com

We love 

AIRE Ancient Baths, Covent Garden 

Feeling the need to disconnect? Then head to London's most exciting 

new thermal baths spa, complete with an ice pool, cold pool, warm 

pool, hot pool, salt-water flotarium, and various treatments – stay 

overnight in Covent Garden's new luxury lifestyle hotel, Middle Eight. 

beaire.com / middleeight.com 

CAMBRIDGE 

The Fellows House 

Just a stone’s throw from the River Cam in the 

heart of the historic city of Cambridge, The 

Fellows House is the perfect base to explore 

Cambridge’s famous colleges, the Bridge of 

Sighs, the University of Cambridge museums 

and Botanic Gardens. The brand new 131- 

room apartment-style hotel features unique 

pieces of artwork and sculptures, all designed 

locally in Cambridge. The room types are 

all named after people associated with the 

city and notable Cambridge fellows, such as 

Kipling, Newton, Gormley and Attenborough, 

and don't miss the signature restaurant, The 

Folio (pictured) serving plant-based dishes 

and British comfort classics. ◆ 

thefellowshouse.com 

HIGHLAND PERTHSHIRE 

Lapwing and Curlew 

A little-known piece of the Scottish landscape has opened up as a 

holiday destination for the first time, with the arrival of two exquisite 

shepherd's huts on the Atholl Estates in Highland Perthshire. Sitting 

on a stunning spot in the Tulliemet Valley, the shepherd's huts 

(named Lapwing and Curlew) command breathtaking views across 

Strathtay and are surrounded by an abundance of wildlife, from 

osprey, nesting eagles and deer to newly arrived resident beavers in 

the Tulliemet River. Prices from £360. ◆ 

atholl-estates.co.uk 



CORNWALL 

Ugly Butterfly flies to Carbis Bay 

Ugly Butterfly, which is chef Adam Handling’s most sustainable brand 

of restaurants, has launched at the luxurious Carbis Bay Estate. The 

opening followed the hotel playing host to the 2021 G7 Summit, 

where Adam and his team created sustainability-focused dishes for the 

leaders, and the whole summit, to enjoy. uglybutterfly.co.uk 

YORKSHIRE AND CHESHIRE 

New Beauty Spots 

The Yorkshire Wolds and the Cheshire 

Sandstone Ridge (pictured right) are being 

considered by Natural England as the newest 

members of our country's designated Areas of 

Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). 

There are 34 Areas AONBs currently in 

England and each one is protected by law 

so that its natural beauty is conserved and 

enhanced. This new status for Yorkshire Wolds 

and Cheshire Sandstone Ridge could further 

safeguard the region's tranquil landscapes, 

boost nature, and help more people enjoy the 

rolling hills, ancient woodland, archaeology, 

wildlife, and culture. ◆ 

gov.uk/natural-england 

You might also enjoy 

ENGLAND 

Heritage Open Days 

England's largest festival of history and culture returns this September, 10–19. 

Each year, thousands of volunteers organise events to give people the chance to 

see hidden places and try new experiences for free – online and offline. Heritage 

Open Days is about providing people with the opportunity to see places and 

spaces they don't usually get access to. The theme for this year is Edible England 

– so expect behind-the-scenes tours and entertaining tastings. With more and 

more of us learning to love our local areas during lockdown, these outdoor, 

usually off-grid hidden gems could be just what we all need. ◆ 

heritageopendays.org.uk 


Don't miss 

SPECIAL FEATURE 

LONDON 

Chelsea History Festival 17 – 26 September 2021 

The Chelsea History Festival is returning for an action-packed third year this 

September, building on the success of previous years that saw almost 30,000 

people involved – both physically and virtually. Taking place in the heart of 

London in partnership with three notable institutions – the National Army 

Museum, Royal Hospital Chelsea and the Chelsea Physic Garden – this 

year’s diverse festival will host over 70 exciting physical and virtual events. 

There are more than 15 headline speakers, including Damien Lewis, Olivette 

Otele and Jonathan Dimbleby, and the festival features a number of 

exclusive pre-publication launches. This year’s dynamic programme of events 

covers a range of themes, delving into the worlds of military and art history, 

and platforming new perspectives on social and natural history. Brand new 

for this year’s festival, the History Village in the heart of London will take 

visitors back through time to learn first-hand what life was like in Roman 

London during World War I. This immersive outdoor event brings history to 

the forefront with living historians, serving military units and local cultural 

organisations. Visitors also have the opportunity to become knights in shining 

armour for the day, clashing blades at the Sword School, alongside a range of 

other family-friendly activities. ◆ 

chelseahistoryfestival.com 


The Hop Kiln, Herefordshire 

Find your special place 

From quintessential cottages and country houses 

to quirky windmills and lighthouses. 

A portfolio of over 

600 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and Ireland. 

View the properties 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Or talk to us on 

01386 897 959

GRAPE MINDS 

THINK ALIKE 

Move over Champagne – there’s a new premium wine region in 

town. We encounter acres of picturesque vines, beautiful views and 

award-winning wines when we meet the five passionate producers 

who have come together to form Vineyards of the Surrey Hills 

Words | Sophie Farrah 


WHEN YOU THINK of famous wine 

regions, perhaps the South of France 

springs to mind, or California’s Napa 

Valley, but how about the Surrey Hills? 

Just 20 miles south of London, sandwiched between 

Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, lies a cluster of five 

beautiful vineyards, each producing internationally 

award-winning wines in an Area of Outstanding Natural 

Beauty (AONB). Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? 

Together, they’ve joined forces to create Vineyards of 

the Surrey Hills (VoSH) – a new, world-class wine tourism 

destination that celebrates the excellence of the wine 

being produced there. Cultivated on limestone hills that 

share the same geological stratum as the Champagne 

region, each vineyard is located along the rolling North 

Downs Way; its south-facing slopes, chalky soil and 

microclimate providing optimum conditions for wine 

production. 

As a newly formed wine region, these family-run 

vineyards are now working closely together to create 

and deliver memorable visitor experiences, while also 

sharing knowledge, resources, and above all, a passion 

for creating the best possible wine. There are tours and 

tastings aplenty, and vineyard hopping is positively 

encouraged, but despite their proximity, each one has 

something very different to offer, as we discovered… 

Our first stop was Albury; this small, beautiful vineyard 

is located just outside Guildford and is where Nick 

Wenman fulfilled his lifelong dream of planting vines 

in 2009, after retiring from the IT industry. Today, he 

runs the business with his daughter Lucy and vineyard 

managers Dominic and Alex. 

“Everyone has historically thought of Sussex and Kent 

as key wine-growing regions, but we want to put the 

Surrey Hills on the map,” enthuses Lucy, as she showed 

us around their 12-acre plot. 

Albury is the only organic vineyard in the Surrey Hills, 

and one of very few in the UK. It produces a range of 

delicious, award-winning sparkling wines made from 

traditional Champagne variety grapes, but it’s their 

Silent Pool Rosé that has made the biggest splash, after 

it was chosen to be served on the royal barge for the 

Queen’s Jubilee in 2012. Now it sells out every year. Here, 

visitors can enjoy a variety of tours and tastings, or just 

pop in for a glass (or bottle), enjoyed while overlooking 

the vines. There are also regular events featuring live 

music and local food. 

Our next stop, less than a 10-minute drive away, 

was High Clandon – the smallest vineyard of the Surrey 

Hills. Here, South African owner Sibylla Tindale and her 

husband Bruce tend to each vine by hand in their small, 

but perfectly formed, one-acre vineyard. 

“VoSH celebrates the beauty of the Surrey Hills 

AONB, and the fact that the chalky terroir of these à 


glorious rolling downs can produce such exquisite 

wines,” enthused Sibylla, as she showed us round her 

stunning gardens, with their equally stunning views. 

“As there are only five vineyards in this special area, 

it made abundant sense to create a delicious wine 

region to attract both tourists and wine aficionados. 

Also, having more than one lovely vineyard to visit is a 

wonderful attraction!” 

The offering at High Clandon is aged-matured 

vintage fizz only; each release has won a staggering 

array of awards and sells out every year. Visits to the 

vineyard are by appointment only, while monthly 

tours and tastings can be pre-booked. 

Our next destination was Denbies, which was until 

recently the largest single-estate vineyard in the UK 

with a whopping 265 acres ‘under vine’. Established 

in 1986, it encompasses a large winery, hotel, 

restaurant, shops and various visitor experiences, as 

well as seven miles 

of public footpaths, 

open to all. It 

produces a wide 

range of awardwinning 

still and 

sparkling wines, some of which we were lucky enough 

to try in one of the vineyard’s new, heated, luxury 

cabanas, overlooking acres of beautiful vines. 

“Regional clusters of vineyards are forming all 

over the UK, so the collaboration of our awardwinning 

vineyards, located in an AONB, presented 

a significant opportunity,” explains Denbies’ COO, 

Jeannette Simpson. 

“We are all completely different in size, production 

and visitor offering, and so together we can provide 

a large selection of tours and experiences that really 

complement each other.” 

Speaking of which – after our wine tasting, we 

hopped aboard the vineyard’s brilliant outdoor train 

tour, which trundled through the vines to the top 

of the estate, where we could enjoy the stunning 

views of Box Hill with a glass of Denbies’ delicious 

sparkling in hand. 

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year is 

Greyfriars, our next destination, which Mike and 

Hilary Wagstaff took over in 2010 with the aim of 

expanding the original vineyard planted there in 

1989; they now have a total of 40 acres under vine, 

on two neighbouring sites. Here, each element of the 

wine-production process takes place on-site; what 

Mike describes as ‘grape to glass’. Where smaller 

vineyards take their grapes to external wineries for 

production, Greyfriars has built its very own, as well 

as a large storage cave in the chalk slopes. Their 

wines have won several international awards, and 

the vineyard hosts regular tours, tastings and foodie 

events. This year, it also unveiled an impressive new 

tasting room. 

“Located just a stone’s throw from London, we grow 

amazing and varied wine, with beautiful vineyards 

and brilliant people. We want to encourage visitors to 

come and experience everything that we have to offer 

– not just the wine,” 

“ 

Having more than one lovely vineyard 

to visit is a wonderful attraction! 

” 

enthuses Mike. 

Our fifth and final 

stop was Chilworth 

Manor, an astoundingly 

beautiful historic house 

and estate owned by Graham and Mia Wrigley. The 

couple planted vines in 2013, making it the newest of 

the Surrey Hills vineyards. Their 10-acre plot produces 

fruit for an incredibly popular English rosé and, for the 

first time this year, a hotly anticipated sparkling wine. 

Currently, Chilworth Manor is the only Surrey Hills 

vineyard not regularly open to the public, but it hosts 

several annual charity events that are open to all, and a 

new, permanent tasting barn is planned for next year. 

“I think that the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills will 

become known as an umbrella that represents quality 

– we’re all so passionate about what we do, and we’re 

all family businesses too,” Graham explains. 

“Already it’s fast becoming a destination to visit 

two or three vineyards in a day. I really believe that we 

could be the Napa Valley of the UK. When we started 

out, we didn’t realise there would be this wine tourism 

element but there is such a demand for it, which is 

great, and most of all – it’s fun.” We’ll drink to that. 


WHERE TO STAY NEARBY 

The Merry Harriers 

This charming traditional village 

inn, complete with friendly resident 

llamas, offers good food and four 

comfortable and serene bedrooms 

with countryside views. In its 

pretty gardens there are a further 

six bedrooms, and five luxurious 

shepherd's huts. Their ‘Taste of 

Surrey’ package includes a tour at 

Albury Vineyard as well as a bottle of 

their highly coveted Silent Pool Rosé. 

merryharriers.com 

Beaverbrook 

Nestled in the heart of the Surrey 

Hills, Beaverbrook is a quintessential 

British country estate. There are 29 

sumptuous, beautifully designed 

rooms to choose from, divided 

between the House and the Garden 

House, including three suites. 

There’s also an impressive architectdesigned 

spa, cinema, several stylish 

eateries and 470 acres of beautiful 

countryside to explore. 

beaverbrook.co.uk 

Denbies Vineyard Hotel 

If you’re looking to fully immerse 

yourself in Surrey’s beautiful vines 

then this is the place for you. 

Located on the wine estate itself, 

Denbies is home to one of the UK's 

very few vineyard hotels. There are 

17 recently refurbished bedrooms 

here, with both spacious luxury 

suites and doubles with king-sized 

beds as standard, overlooking the 

vineyards and rolling hills beyond. 

denbies.co.uk 

TOP BOTTLES 

Chilworth Manor Brut Rosé 2018, 

£36.50 

Released this year, the vineyard’s first 

fizz has been a huge success; it’s a 

delicate salmon pink in colour and 

bursting with creamy summer fruits, 

butterscotch and brioche. There are 

plans to release a sparkling white 

wine later this year too. 

chilworthmanorvineyard.com 

High Clandon Euphoria Cuvée 

2016 Prestige Vintage Brut, £39 

The word ‘euphoria’ is used to 

describe intense feelings of 

happiness, and that’s exactly how 

you’ll feel after a glass or two of 

this delicious, award-winning fizz. 

Resulting from a late harvest with 

five years' lees ageing, it tastes of 

crisp citrus and buttery brioche, 

with rich peach and alluring florals. 

highclandon.co.uk 

Albury Estate Classic Cuvée, £32.95 

This award-winning, certified organic 

English sparkling wine is a classic 

cuvée of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and 

Pinot Meunier. Fresh and lively, the 

ripe acidity is complemented by a 

subtle sweetness. 

alburyvineyard.com 

Denbies Surrey Gold, £9.75 

This is Denbies’ most popular wine, 

and the first they ever produced. A 

blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and 

Bacchus, it’s quite Germanic in style – 

off dry, but fresh, fruity and aromatic. 

denbies.co.uk 

Greyfriars NV Sparkling Rosé, 

£19.50 

This award-winning, delicious pink 

fizz is a delicate pale colour, with 

aromas of summer berries and a fresh 

fruity palate. A perfect aperitif, it is 

incredibly good value too. 

greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk 



THE WHITE STUFF... 

SKIING 

IN THE HIGHLANDS 

Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of peaks and pines, miles 

of pure white snow – and you don’t have to leave the UK… 

Words | Adrienne Wyper 

IN RECENT YEARS, there have been around 250,000 ‘skier days’ a season in 

Scotland, so it’s a – deservedly – popular winter pastime. But if you’re not into skiing, 

or the snow is a no-show, high in the mountains is still a great place to be, with lots to 

do. Even in skiing-mad Switzerland, a third of winter visitors aren’t there to ski... 

The Scottish skiing season runs from December through to early April, although the 

snow conditions are usually best from January onward. Scotland has five ski resorts: 

Glenshee, the largest; Glencoe, the oldest, with the longest and steepest runs; Lecht, the 

quietest; Cairngorm Mountain Resort, the most popular; and Nevis Range Mountain 

Resort, near Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. All offer ski and snowboard tuition, 

in groups or solo, and you can hire all the kit you’ll need. 

The wintry scenery is stunning, with lochs and forests at lower altitudes often 

unblanketed by snow, and for non-skiers (or when the weather isn’t being 

cooperative), there are lots of other no-snow activities within easy reach of wherever 

you’re based. The total length of all available ski runs, at over 83 miles, is lower 

than you’d find at many individual resorts in the Alps or North America, so there’s 

less variety, but for a short stay the Scottish slopes give foreign resorts a run for their 

money. Snow conditions can be unpredictable, so stay flexible, keep your eye on the 

snow situation and weather forecast (visitscotland.com), and perhaps be 

prepared to go at short notice. 

à 


Pictured previous page: Skiing on the Glencoe Mountain range 

Pictured clockwise from left: Rothiemurchus Forest by Loch an 

Eilean in the Cairngorms National Park; on the way up at Glencoe 

Mountain Resort; The Cairngorm reindeer herd is Britain's only 

free-ranging herd of reindeer found in the Cairngorm mountains; 

A skier makes a jump from the lemming ridge into Coire Dubh, off 

piste at the Nevis Range Ski Centre 

Glenshee Ski Centre 

The Glenshee Ski Centre resort is set in set in spectacular 

mountain scenery in Perthshire at the eastern end of the 

highest Cairngorm peaks. 

The name Glenshee means ‘fairy glen’ and the area is 

sometimes called ‘The Three Glens’ as a nod to the massive 

ski area in France known as ‘Les Trois Vallées’. Access is via the 

A93, the UK’s highest public road. 

Informal skiing started here in the 1930s, and today the 

UK’s biggest lift system extends across three valleys and four 

mountains – with a summit elevation of 3,504 feet. For 

beginners, access is easy, with extensive nursery slopes by the 

main car park. Intermediates have 36 runs to choose from, 

from the expansive pistes of the Thunderbowl and sheltered 

routes of Coire Fionn and Glas Maol to the bumps, jumps 

and natural half-pipe of Meall Odhar and the slalom course 

at Cairnwell. Experienced skiers should try the mogul-strewn 

Tiger black run. 

For ski-free family fun, swoosh downhill on a sledge, 

or consider ‘bagging a Munro’. There are 24 ‘Munros’ – 

mountains over 3,000 feet – here, named after Sir Hugh 

Munro, who compiled the first list of such peaks, totalling 

282, in 1891. ‘Munro bagging’ means walking up one of 

them. Several whisky distilleries are within easy reach, or 

sample craft gins at Persie Distillery. 

Make your base in Braemar in the heart of the Cairngorms 

National Park, near Balmoral Castle, with two castles of its 

own, and the driving trail to see another 15. The town is home 

to the renowned annual Braemar Gathering, with pipe bands, 

Highland dancing and tossing of the caber. Accommodation 

ranges from cheery log cabins to a grand Victorian shooting 

lodge. Or for splendid self-catering seclusion, stay in 

Glenbeag Moutain Lodges: Scandi-style log cabins with 

outdoor hot tubs and saunas. 


Glencoe Mountain Resort 

Perhaps best known, at least to Scots, as the site of 

the 1692 massacre of MacDonald clan members by 

government forces they’d taken into their homes, the 

spectacular, brooding scenery of the Glencoe Valley, 

sculpted by an ancient volcano, has been seen on 

screen many times, in films including Braveheart, Harry 

Potter and Skyfall. 

It is Scotland’s oldest ski resort, with commercial 

skiing starting here in 1956, and also home to the 

country’s longest black run, Flypaper, at 2.6 miles, 

which is also the steepest. Its highest point is 3,635 

feet, giving impressive views of Rannoch Moor and the 

sharply peaked Buachaille Etive Mor mountain. 

Midway up the mountain there’s a natural bowl with 

a large plateau area, and the upper reaches have some 

superb runs, including the famous Flypaper. And for 

the kids there are igloo-building and snowman-building 

competitions for World Snow Day and Snow Fest. 

“ 

No matter what time of year you visit, 

and whether deep in the glen or high on 

the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife can be as 

spectacular as its mountains. 

” 

Stay on-site in the snug tubular Microlodges, or 

in the village of Glencoe itself, 11 miles from the ski 

resort, beside Loch Leven, at the mouth of the valley, in 

charming lochside hotels and welcoming guesthouses. 

Around the village are walks to suit all abilities, 

or spend a day in Fort William, on the shore of Loch 

Linnhe, known as the outdoor capital of the UK, with 

its sandy beaches, castles and distilleries. You could even 

scale the 4,413-foot Ben Nevis – and no matter what 

time of year you visit, and whether deep in the 

glen or high on the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife 

can be as spectacular as its mountains. 

à 


BEST UK 

ATTRACTION 

(Which? Magazine, 2020) 

Make memories aboard Britannia 

Make memories aboard Britannia 

Walk in the footsteps of Royalty 

Explore 5 decks of history 

FREE Annual Pass Highly Accessible Royal Deck Tea Room 

BEST UK 

ATTRACTION 

(Which? Magazine, 2020) 

Walk in the footsteps of Royalty Explore 5 decks of history 

FREE Annual Pass Highly Accessible Royal Deck Tea Room 

20% off 

* 

*20% off admission for up to 4 people. Enter code 1414 online at the 

checkout stage on the Britannia website or show the advert/quote code 

at the Britannia Visitor Reception on the 2nd floor of Ocean Terminal 

Shopping Centre. Not valid in conjunction with any other offer, gift 

tickets or family tickets. One code per transaction. No cash alternative. 

Valid until 28 February 2021. Ref: 1414. 

Please see website for opening times and prices 

royalyachtbritannia.co.uk 

Gift Shop Free Parking Free Audio Tour Available in 30 Languages

IMAGES © VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS / KENNY LAM 

Pictured: Views from the 

Cairngorm Mountain Resort 

Cairngorm Mountain Resort 

Situated in the heart of Cairngorm National Park, on the country’s 

sixth-highest mountain, the resort has 31 runs (13 green, 10 blue, six 

red, two black), accessed by 12 lifts, and two cafés – one café is the 

UK’s highest. 

Views from the top, 4,0484 feet, are spectacular, with the peaks 

of the surrounding mountain range and Loch Morlich glistening 

below. The 1.2-mile funicular railway, the UK’s highest, runs from the 

base station to Ptarmigan, the top station at 3,599 feet. It has been 

closed since 2018 but is being repaired and set to reopen in winter 

2022. Another record-holder is the UK’s highest red phone box, still 

fully operational. 

Stay in and around the popular holiday resort of Aviemore, just 

11 miles away, which plays host to the Scottish Freestyle Ski and 

Snowboard Championships every March, with everything from 

luxury hotels, B&Bs or cottages to rent or, for a more rural location, 

there are cosy wooden lodges at Badaguish Outdoor Centre in 

Glenmore, at the foot of the Cairngorms, surrounded by centuriesold 

pine forest. 

Aviemore makes an excellent base for exploring the wild reaches 

of the Cairngorms National Park, especially for spotting some of 

the native wildlife, such as eagles, capercaillie and osprey. And how 

about mingling with Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd at the 

Cairngorm Reindeer Centre at nearby Glenmore? Treat yourself 

to a trip on the Strathspey Steam Railway on a heritage steam 

locomotive, with afternoon tea en route. Or travel here by train 

aboard the Caledonian Sleeper, the overnight service from London, 

which stops in Aviemore. 

GET YOUR 

SKATES ON 

— 

For more frozen fun, skating on 

seasonal ice rinks is a much-loved 

activity that’s now become part of the 

run-up to Christmas. The pandemic 

is still affecting future events; please 

check details before you go. 

Somerset House, Strand, London 

London’s most glamorous rink, set in the 

18th-century courtyard of this working 

arts centre and exhibition space, open 

all day and into the evening. 

somersethouse.org.uk 

Skate Manchester, Cathedral Gardens 

Experience Manchester’s undercover 

outdoor ice rink, located in the heart of 

the city centre. 

skatemanchester.com 

Royal Pavilion, Brighton 

With the former royal pleasure palace 

as its impressive backdrop, this rink is 

powered by wind and solar energy. 

royalpavilionicerink.co.uk 

Life Science Centre, 

Newcastle-upon-Tyne 

Glide around this city-centre rink 

with the award-winning science 

centre as a backdrop. 

life.org.uk 

Winter Wonderland, Cardiff 

Instead of going round and round 

a rink, follow the ice walk in the 

shadow of Cardiff Castle. 

visitcardiff.com/discover/christmas 



MY CULINARY JOURNEY... 

TOM 

KERRIDGE 

Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin stars, Tom Kerridge 

reflects on his stratospheric success and his 2021 new launch 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

THE RESTAURANT trade is not for the fainthearted – any business owner 

emerging from the last couple of years will attest to this – but Michelin chef Tom 

Kerridge has never been averse to seizing an opportunity and rolling the dice. 

In 2005, Kerridge and his artist wife Beth bought a rundown pub in Marlow, 

Buckinghamshire, and invested every penny they had in the business. The gamble paid 

off, and then some – within 10 months The Hand & Flowers won its first Michelin star and 

it’s been one of Britain’s finest gastronomic flag bearers ever since. “It was a real case of 

just grabbing an opportunity and running with it. Working with your other half is amazing. 

Sometimes it’s very hard to know the boundaries between your work life and home life – it 

all becomes a bit of a melting pot – but you’re both driven to create something fantastic and 

exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve things together as a team.” 

In 2012, The Hand & Flowers won its second Michelin star, making it the first gastropub to 

receive two stars in Michelin history. “I think the second star was even bigger because we 

had constantly reinvested in the business, the company and the people. We got rooms on 

board (Kerridge has cottages and luxurious bedrooms dotted around the charming town 

of Marlow for rental) and we just tried to get better every day. We didn’t expect to win two 

stars. It’s such a monumental achievement for anyone to win two, but for us to do it in a 

pub and being the first pub to do it, was just mind-blowing. Every year when it maintains 

that level, it’s like winning it all over again.” 

à 


PUB GRUB 

Tom says his cooking is honest with 

menu inspirations often taking one dish 

– even if intrinsically very simple – “and 

doing it the very best it can be done”. 

It’s a recipe that has worked wonders, 

with the Michelin guide inclusion for The 

Hand & Flowers reading: “Food is based 

around pub classics, but those classics 

are elevated to new heights and are 

among the best in the UK. The sourcing 

of ingredients is given due reverence and 

execution is skilful and confident, while 

the dishes themselves are characterised 

by rich, powerful flavours – and the 

presentation is first-rate. Desserts are 

a real highlight and you’ll always find a 

soufflé on the list.” 

Pictured left to 

right: Kerridge’s 

grilled lobster and 

chips;Tom Kerridge 

cooking; Kerridge’s 

Bar & Grill, London 

Of his ethos, Kerridge says: “A lot of 

people sometimes are intimidated 

by Michelin stars or Michelin-star 

experience, but we want people to 

enjoy it and love it. Of course, feel that 

there’s something very special there, 

but without them feeling that they’re on 

edge. For us it’s all about encompassing 

and embracing everybody.” 

The success of The Hand & Flowers 

has led to some delectable offshoots. 

Tom now has two further pubs in Marlow 

where he lives with his family; The 

Coach which opened in 2014 and won a 

Michelin star in 2017, and The Butcher’s 

Tap – Kerridge’s traditional butchers’ 

shop that serves the highest quality meat 

prepared by expert butchers, which also 


“ 

Working with your other half is amazing – you’re both driven to create 

something fantastic and exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve 

things together as a team. 

” 

opened in 2017. “Marlow is home. It’s a beautiful 

place and so easy for heading in and out of London,” 

the chef says. 

When it comes to new ventures, Kerridge has 

zoned in on venues of historical note. He opened his 

first London restaurant Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at the 

Corinthia Hotel in 2018 and then went on to open his 

Manchester restaurant The Bull & Bear in 2019 at the 

new Stock Exchange Hotel. 

à 


“ 

I fell for the energy – the 

excitement, the late nights, and 

the early mornings... the nine to 

five, Monday to Friday was never 

going to have been for me 

” 

COOL BRITANNIA 

Born and raised in Gloucestershire, it was a 

combination of luck and necessity that led him into the 

hospitality trade, aged 18. “I needed some money, so I 

went to wash up in a kitchen when I was 18, and I just 

fell in love with the industry. I fell for the energy – the 

excitement, the late nights, and the early mornings. 

After all the routine of school, there was something so 

exciting about it all. The nine to five, Monday to Friday 

was never going to have been for me.” 

Kerridge went to culinary school in Cheltenham 

and worked in country houses and hotels across 

Gloucestershire as a junior chef before moving to 

London in his early 20s to work with the likes of Philip 

Britton, Gary Rhodes and Steven Bull. 

“You can get influenced more by people who 

sometimes you don’t work with – like big names in the 

industry, great French chefs and fantastic people like 

Marco Pierre White; his White Heat cookery book has 

been amazing for many chefs my age. But I suppose 

one person in my career who stands out is Gary 

Rhodes. Having spent time working with Gary, the 

godfather of British cuisine, is special.” 

Kerridge's food continues to be honest, true to its 

roots and more often than not a celebration of Britain, 

which makes his latest opening – Kerridge’s Fish & 

Chips in Harrods, in the historic Grade-II-listed Dining 

Hall – an even better fit. 

Launched in summer 2021, the sociable, laidback 

food hall has booths and a bar, with a menu that 

includes freshly caught turbot, lobster, Rock oysters, 

Cornish squid, and Dublin Bay prawns, along with 

joyously British sides of pease pudding, and snacks of 

chip shop pickled onions, cockle ‘popcorn’ with malted 

beer vinegar, Morecambe Bay shrimps and treacle 

bread. Kerridge adds: “It’s a massive celebration 

of British food in such a magical shop. The dishes 

include incredible lobster, oysters and freshly caught 

fish from some of the best suppliers in Britain and 

beyond. They are all cooked to perfection and served 

with sensational sides, such as the triple-cooked chips 

topped with an option of Matson curry sauce, Lobster 

Thermidor, Morecambe Bay Shrimps or Caviar – it’s an 

unbeatable combination. 

“Everyone remembers trips to Harrods as a kid. I 

remember going with my grandparents and walking 

around with my mouth wide open thinking how 

magical it was – and how special to now be able to 

serve our food there. 

We see it as a great place to represent Great Britain 

and the food that we do.” 


Pictured 

clockwise from 

left: Bar at 

Kerridge's Bar & 

Grill, London; 

Kerridge's fish and 

chips; Kerridge's 

prawns and chips; 

Kerridge's haddock 

and chips; Entrance 

to Kerridge's Bar 

& Grill 

OFF MENU 

The king of elevating British classics, Kerridge notes 

his fish-and-chip dishes as some of his favourites 

from across his menus: “Fish and chips appears on 

all of the restaurants at some point, in some style, so 

that’s something that represents us really well, I think. 

There’s a smoked haddock omelette that’s on the 

starters at The Hand & Flowers that has been there 

pretty much from the beginning, which is another dish 

we are really proud of.” 

Despite the challenging last 18 months, it’s buoying 

to see a chef still as enamoured with his kitchens and 

his craft. “It’s not a job, it’s a way of life and it’s what 

I fell in love with all those years ago. The energy, the 

chaotic hours, the enthusiasm.” 

When he does take a break, he retreats to Cornwall, 

where best friend and top chef Paul Ainsworth has 

his famous restaurant No6, alongside Caffè Rojano, 

The Mariners Public House, Mahé Cookery School 

and Chef’s Table, with rooms at Ainsworth’s Padstow 

Townhouse. “He’s down in Padstow in Cornwall and 

Paul’s got rooms at the Padstow Townhouse and his 

restaurant No6 is just fantastic so we love going down 

there.” 

Humble, down to earth and authentic – true of both 

the dishes and the chef – Kerridge has no plans for further 

named expansions and so continues to lead from the front 

and keep food at the core of all that he does. 



GREEN 

GASTRONOMY 

MEET MICHELIN’S NEW SUSTAINABLE STAR ... 

The Michelin Green Star is a prestigious new accolade 

for planet-conscious cooking. Here, we unearth what it 

takes to achieve this ultimate award for sustainability and 

meet some of the restaurants that are proudly offering both 

gastronomic and environmental excellence 

Words | Sophie Farrah 

YOU MAY HAVE HEARD of the Michelin star, but how about its 

sustainable sister? Unveiled by the Michelin Guide in 2020, the Green 

Star is a new annual award that recognises exceptional restaurants that 

are operating in a truly sustainable manner; those combining culinary 

excellence with outstanding environmental efforts. In the 2021 edition of the Michelin 

Guide Great Britain and Ireland, just 23 restaurants received this new eco accolade. 

“Many chefs have been creating their cuisine to the rhythm of nature and the 

planet's resources for years. By giving credit to some of the most committed ones, 

we hope to shape a positive and progressive momentum,” explains Gwendal 

Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide. 

Restaurants can only qualify for this new, green-clover-leaf symbol if they have 

already been recognised by Michelin in some way, either in the form of a Star, Bib 

Gourmand or Plate, and there is absolutely no room for greenwashing; Michelin’s 

rigorous inspectors are looking for those who are at the very top of their game when 

it comes to operating in a sustainable way. 

à 


“ 

I feel that restaurants and guides have a responsibility to lead by example... 

and the Green Star does exactly that. Michelin have taken the first step, 

and we couldn’t be prouder to be one of the first restaurants awarded . 

” 

“Gourmets and foodies have 

become more challenging of their ways 

of consuming, trying to leverage the 

environmental impact of their actions 

and choices. We want to demonstrate 

that both gastronomic and eco-friendly 

excellence can go hand in hand,” says 

Gwendal. 

On Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula, 

New Yard Restaurant is housed 

in a converted stable building on 

the Trelowarren Estate. It offers a 

leisurely seven-course set menu that 

is guided by the seasons and created 

using ingredients that have either 

been foraged on the estate, grown 

in the walled garden or ethically 

sourced from the local area. It is a ‘no 

option’ menu, which keeps wastage, 

staff labour and fuel to a minimum. 

Produce is grown using regenerative 

agricultural methods, such as ‘no dig’ 

gardening and using animals to keep 

the soil healthy. Sometimes, the menu 

isn’t finalised until the same day, when 

local fisherman, John, knows how 

many covers are booked and delivers 

whatever he thinks is best. 

“Putting our menu design in the 

hands of our local suppliers means that 

we use what’s abundant rather than 

creating extra demand for what isn’t,” 

explains New Yard’s co-owner and 

executive chef, Jeffrey Robinson. 

“I feel that restaurants and guides 

have a responsibility to lead by 


Pictured previous 

page: Scotland's 

Green Star; Inver 

in Strachur 

Pictured left 

to right: 

New Yard 

Restaurant's 

flavours from the 

garden: cured 

monkfish, curry oil, 

yoghurt, grape and 

almond; serving 

of pheasant; and 

smoked cod's roe 

with carrots. 

example with how the food system 

is used, and the Green Star does 

exactly that. Michelin have taken 

the first step, and we couldn’t 

be prouder to be one of the first 

restaurants awarded.” 

Wales’ only Green Star was 

awarded to historic country house 

hotel Palé Hall in the tranquil Dee 

valley. Its luxurious, fine-dining 

restaurant grows its own organic 

produce using its own compost, 

team uniforms are made from 

recycled plastic, and there’s a 

hydroelectric plant on-site, which 

provides renewable energy. 

Scotland is also home to one Green 

Star; Inver in Strachur. Set in an 

isolated former crofter’s cottage 

and boat store on the shore of 

Loch Fyne, this beautiful restaurant 

has stunning views out across the 

water, and luxurious, eco-friendly, 

bothy-style bedrooms. Here, chefowner 

Pamela Brunton uses local, 

wild and foraged ingredients to 

create her outstanding modern 

menus. 

“Sustainability is the ground on 

which we build our business; it’s 

much more than just a ‘subject’ to 

us,” she explains. 

“The people, landscape, plants 

and animals that guide and shape 

our menus are an ecosystem, in 

which we are one evolving part. If 

they don’t thrive, neither can we.” 

Elsewhere in the countryside, 

there's another Green Star at 

Daylesford Organic Farm in 

Gloucestershire, which has 

promoted sustainable farming 

for over 40 years. Attached to a 

farm shop is a stylish restaurant 

that houses a wood-fired oven, 

a botanical cocktail bar and a 

carefully curated menu of mostly 

organic food. In Axminster, the 

à 


Pictured clockwise from left: The Baba Au Rhum at 

New Yard Restaurant; Dover sole with mussels and 

coastal vegetables at Petersham Nurseries; using 

regenerative methods in New Yard Restaurant's Walled 

Garden to grow fruit, vegetables and flowers as well as 

rear two Kunekune pigs and fourteen chickens; freshly 

picked tomatoes at Petersham Nurseries 

focus at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s 

rustic River Cottage Kitchen is also 

on seasonal, organic produce, with 

a menu of flavour-filled, plant-based 

dishes made using ingredients from its 

nearby farm. Staff are also treated in 

a sustainable manner here; working 

hours are fair, good food is provided, 

and 100% of tips are shared. In the 

kitchen, as much single-use plastic 

has been eliminated as possible, cling 

film is nowhere to be seen, and milk is 

delivered in metal churns. 

These ethical and environmental 

efforts are not reserved for rural 

restaurants alone, oh no. Just off Eyre 

Square in Galway city, Loam is the 

recipient of both a Michelin Star for its 

exceptional and ambitious cooking, 

and a Green Star for its rigorously 

eco-friendly approach. The seasonally 

driven menu is a masterclass in modern 

cooking and changes daily, depending 

on the availability of local produce. 

Chef–owner Enda McEvoy 

goes above and beyond to ensure 

sustainability; local potters provide 

tableware, and local horticulturists 

grow wildflowers for the tables, 

thus supporting the local economy. 

Vegetables and meat are sourced 

directly from farmers, game from 

hunters, and seafood and fish from local 

fishers. In the kitchen, fermenting and 

salting techniques are used to prevent 

waste, as is a composting system. 

Electricity comes from renewable 

sources, water usage is closely 


‘ 

Silo is the world’s first zero-waste restaurant... and everything, from the 

stylish furniture to the cool crockery, is made with recycled materials. 

’ 

monitored, and induction is used for 

cooking, as it uses less energy. 

“Urban environments are where 

transformative action must take 

place, because by 2050 two-thirds 

of the world's population will 

be living in urban areas. That’s 

a lot of food, water, waste and 

energy needed, so cities have a 

pivotal opportunity to achieve the 

goals of the Paris Agreement (the 

international treaty on climate 

change),” says Enda. 

“Recognising efforts in the 

industry and the pivotal role 

that hospitality can play is 

hugely important. It encourages 

learning between restaurants and 

normalises sustainability efforts, 

rather than it being seen as a fringe 

movement.” 

In Hackney, East London, 

Silo is the world’s first zero-waste 

restaurant; the menu is mainly 

plant-based and everything, from 

the stylish furniture to the cool 

crockery, is made with recycled 

materials. Elsewhere in the 

capital, the picturesque Petersham 

Nurseries Café in Richmond has 

also received a Green Star, having 

championed sustainable practices 

for over 20 years. Alongside the 

delicious food, waste management 

is just as important; an advanced 

aerobic food digester uses oxygen, 

à 


1334 

INNOVATIVE | UNIQUE | EXCLUSIVE 

Putting the British into British tea 

for the first time in history. 

Tregothnan has pioneered botanical firsts since 1334, 

experimenting with new plants like the tea genus for over two 

centuries. We finally perfected the first ever tea production in the 

UK in 2005. Today we continue to innovate inspired by our precious 

plants and gardens. 

www.tregothnan.co.uk /tregothnan @tregothnan @tregothnan

Pictured: New Yard Restaurant's 

Walled Garden 

microorganisms and warm water to turn plate waste into a 

liquid that can then be poured away, eliminating the need for 

any vehicular transportation. Menus here stick firmly to seasonal 

vegetables and fruits, with as few food miles generated as 

possible. Seven on-site beehives offer honey, while the owner’s 

family farm provides many of the organic ingredients used to 

create head chef Ambra Papa’s Italian-style dishes, which are 

served in a stunning bougainvillea- and jasmine-filled glasshouse. 

“Consumers are becoming far more demanding when it comes 

to knowing where their food comes from, and that’s a good 

thing,” enthuses Ambra. 

“I hope that the Green Star will highlight the fact that you can 

be green and successful at the same time. Quite often, it’s not the 

easiest and certainly not the cheapest way of operating, but it is 

the right way to run a business.” 

So, next time you’re (Michelin) star spotting, why not look out 

for a green one? 

GREEN STARS 

IN FULL 

— 

ENGLAND 

☆Angela's, Margate 

☆Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat' 

Saisons, Great Milton 

☆Black Swan, Oldstead 

☆Coombeshead Farm, Lewannick 

☆Daylesford Organic Farm, 

Daylesford, Hypha, Chester 

☆L'Enclume, Cartmel 

☆New Yard, Trelowarren 

☆Oxo Tower Brasserie, Southwark, 

London 

☆Petersham Nurseries Café, 

Richmond, London 

☆Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham 

☆River Cottage Kitchen, Axminster 

☆Silo, Hackney, London 

☆The Dining Room, Whatley Manor, 

Malmesbury 

☆The Ethicurean, Wrington 

☆The Small Holding, Kilndown 

☆Tredwells, Strand and Covent 

Garden, London 

☆Where the Light Gets In, Stockport 

SCOTLAND 

☆Inver, Strachur 

WALES 

☆Henry Robertson Dining Room, 

Palé Hall, Llandderfel 

REPUBLIC OF IRELAND 

☆Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites, 

Inishmaan, Aran Islands 

☆Kai, Galway 

☆Loam, Galway 


WALKING TOUR OF... 

Str atford- 

UPON-AVON 

Visit Stratford-upon-Avon 

to catch a performance of 

one of Shakespeare’s plays 

or take a boat on the river 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

YOU CAN’T GO anywhere in 

Stratford without being performed 

at. In the garden of Shakespeare’s 

birthplace three costumed 

performers accost visitors, asking 

them to name one of his plays. They then declaim 

a speech from memory for you. 

Guests pass through this garden to reach 

the house from which John Shakespeare ran 

his glove-making enterprise in Stratford. The 

ground floor living room is decorated with 

vividly printed cloth, which was known as 

‘poor man’s tapestry’. Shakespeare Senior 

wasn’t poor, but he was not the gentleman 

his son became. When William returned to 

Stratford in 1610, he arranged for a coat of 

arms to be granted to his father, which meant 

that henceforth the Shakespeares could carry 

swords. 

John’s workshop for making gloves lies off the 

living room via a small passageway. It’s been 

reconstructed as it might have looked in the 

16th century and there’s a costumed 

guide in there to explain how gloves were 

made in Tudor times. He’ll even tell you 

how many references there are to leather 

glove-making in Shakespeare’s plays. 

Str atford 

-upon 

-Avon 

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/LEE BEEL 


– 

One Elm 

Built where one of three elm trees once marked the town 

boundary, this popular Stratford pub has a courtyard 

for summer dining and a ‘snug’ and loft for cooler 

weather. The loft is decorated with original David Bailey 

black-and-white photos from the 1960s of stars such as 

Michael Caine, David Hockney, and Mick Jagger. The 

menu offers the best of British pub fare with a number of 

local real ales offered on a Sip Before You Sup basis – so 

there’s no danger of choosing the wrong one. 

oneelmsstratford.co.uk 

WHERE TO EAT 

– 

RSC Rooftop Restaurant 

For the best river views before going to a play at the 

Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), take the lift to 

the third floor where an informal dining area has been 

carved out of what once was the back of the auditorium. 

A chair nailed to the wall above the tables indicates 

the position of the back row of the old upper circle. The 

stage must have seemed tiny from up there. The RSC 

Riverside Café is another option for take-away hot and 

cold drinks, homemade cakes, sandwiches and snacks. 

rsc.org.uk/restaurant-cafes-bars 

– 

El Greco 

This Greek restaurant is run by chef Dimitri and his 

ebullient wife Flair. El Greco offers the chance to eat a 

pre-theatre main course before heading down to the 

RSC then come back after curtain-down to finish off 

with dessert. The service is very cheery; Flair greets 

just about everyone like an old friend. The house wine 

is from Macedonia and there is a very good 22-dish 

Greek Banquet available for just over £20. On Fridays 

and Saturdays there is often Greek dancing upstairs. 

el-greco.co.uk 

Pictured left: New Place 

and Nash's House, the final 

home of William Shakespeare, 

manged by the Shakespeare 

Birthplace Trust 

à 


Pictured below: William Shakespeare's birthplace 

Upstairs, guests can walk through bedrooms 

and see the attic where apprentices lived. There 

is a window that illustrious visitors have signed 

over the years, cutting into the glass with their 

diamond rings. Among them is the signature 

of the great Shakespearean actor Henry Irving 

(1838–1905). 

Leaving via the Shakespeare Bookshop, walk 

down Henley Street past the various buskers to 

the old Barclays Bank on the corner. Until 1908 

this building was Stratford’s market hall. Now 

turn right along High Street. Though many of 

the shopfronts ahead are modern, their first 

and second floors are still half-timbered from 

Shakespeare’s time. Halfway down on the right 

stands Harvard House, where the maternal 

grandparents of John Harvard, one of the 

founders of Harvard College, Massachusetts 

lived. Harvard’s grandfather Thomas Rogers 

(1540–1611), served on Stratford’s borough 

corporation with John Shakespeare. 

As High Street turns into Chapel Street, we 

come to Nash’s House. It’s another Jacobean 

half-timbered structure and now contains 

the New Place Museum, which is devoted 

to Shakespeare’s last years in Stratford. 

Thomas Nash married one of Shakespeare’s 

granddaughters, Elizabeth. Next door to 

Nash’s stood the house known as ‘New Place’. 

Shakespeare wrote many of his best later plays 

here. Sadly the house was demolished in 1759, 

an act of cultural vandalism that made the 

then owner so unpopular that he had to leave 

Stratford. Today the site of New Place is an 

open-air memorial to Shakespeare, with his 

gardens laid out in Tudor style running almost 

down to the River Avon. 

Continuing over the road junction into 

Church Street, the Guild Chapel of the Holy 

Cross is a 13th-century church with dramatic 

15th-century murals. They were paid for by 

Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London, who had 

– 

The Townhouse 

This family home stood here in Shakespeare’s time. 

Rooms to the rear of the hotel still date from the 1600s, 

but in 1768 the house was given an early neo-Gothic 

makeover, with ogee windows to the front. Today the 

Townhouse is an 11-bedroom boutique hotel with quirky 

decor and the occasional framed Shakespearean quote. 

stratfordtownhouse.co.uk 

WHERE TO STAY 

– 

Billesley Manor 

Legend has it that Shakespeare wrote part of his comedy 

As You Like It in the library of this stone-built manor house 

five miles east of Stratford. The Church of All Saints in the 

hotel gardens was where Shakespeare’s granddaughter, 

Elizabeth was married in 1646 and may have been where 

Shakespeare himself married Anne Hathaway. The 

topiary gardens of Billesley are a reconstruction, but the 

dining room has an authentically Jacobean feel. 

billesleymanor.com 

– 

The Arden 

Located opposite the Swan Theatre, the Arden has long 

been associated with the Royal Shakespeare Company. 

Many actors have stayed here and the bar is full of 

production photos. Today the hotel has 35 rooms and 

suites. If you eat a pre-theatre supper in the restaurant, 

you can arrange to have dessert delivered to your room 

to await you after curtain-down. 

theardenhotelstratford.com 


THE COTSWOLD 

ART & ANTIQUES DEALERS' 

ASSOCIATION FAIR 

COMPTON VERNEY ART GALLERY & PARK 

COMPTON VERNEY, WARWICKSHIRE 

CV35 9HZ 

14TH - 17TH OCTOBER 2021 

THURSDAY - SUNDAY 

11AM - 5PM 

Complimentary tickets covering 

admission to the grounds 

and the fair are available 

online at: 

www.thecada.org 

Further information 

T: 07855 443913

Pictured below: Rear gardens to Nash's House next door to 

Shakespeare's final residence, New Place 

owned New Place before Shakespeare bought it. 

Ironically Shakespeare’s father was one of those 

Stratford aldermen who, in the 16th century, 

whitewashed over these gaudy paintings because 

they were considered papist. 

Next to the Guild Chapel is King Edward VI 

School, which young Shakespeare attended. In 

the classrooms upstairs there is often an actor in 

costume describing school life in Shakespeare’s time. 

Escaping the entertainment, continue west 

on Church Street and turn left into the lane 

known as ‘Old Town’. Soon you’ll come to Hall’s 

Croft, a grand timber-framed Tudor house 

that was the home of Dr John Hall, who in 1607 

married Shakespeare’s daughter Susanna, 

mother of Elizabeth. 

We know that the parlour passageway at 

the back of the house was added by Susanna. 

We also know that the kitchen was originally 

a separate building, isolated within the walled 

garden for fire prevention reasons and only 

later linked to the house. Upstairs there is a 

dispensary exhibition reflecting John Hall’s work 

and medical practices in the early 17th century. 

Now walk on down Old Town towards the 

River Avon and Holy Trinity Church to find 

Shakespeare’s polychromatic monument in the 

chancel. This is one of our best-known images 

of Shakespeare with his pointy beard and bald 

head. The dramatist’s tomb lies nearby, as do 

the graves of his family. 

Finally, walk through the graveyard to pick 

up the riverside walk that heads back into 

Stratford. The route goes back through 

Avonbank Gardens with its odd little 

neoclassical temple. This pavilion was once 

part of Avonbank School, attended by young 

ladies such as Charlotte Bronte’s biographer, 

Elizabeth Gaskell and John Ruskin’s future wife 

Effie Gray. Pleasure boats and rowing boats 

occupy this part of the river. There is also an 

old hand-cranked chain ferry called Malvolio 

that still operates and charges 20p to cross 

the river. This garden route ends at the Swan 

Theatre, which was originally the Shakespeare 

Memorial Theatre that burned down in 1926. 

It was reopened as a theatre only in 1986 and 

now houses a small auditorium and a museum 

of Shakespeare performance called The Play’s 

the Thing. A boardwalk now takes this route 

along the river and past the new Memorial 

Theatre, the best-known Shakespeare venue in 

the world. It opened in 1932 and was radically 

reconceived and rebuilt from 2007 to 2011. 

A lift from the new lobby takes visitors to the 

Rooftop restaurant, with its panoramic view 

across the whole of Stratford. 

Coming up in our next issue: 

From the stunning Clifton Gorge down to Bristol’s historic dockland, 

we walk this dramatic Georgian city. Join us for a stroll around its 

vibrant streets and waterfront harbour, full of energy and colour. 

WALKING TOUR OF... 

BRISTOL 

From the imposing heights of 

Clifton Gorge down to this city's 

lovely reclaimed harbours, Bristol 

is a beautiful Georgian port full 

of energy and colour. Join us 

for a stroll around its streets. 

DISTANCE 

— 

This 2 mile walk 

takes about 45 

minutes but 

will of course 

take longer if 

you stop to take 

photographs or 

divert off it to 

explore all the 

curious and 


LOREM IPSUM dolor 

sit amet, consectetur 

adipiscing elit. Curabitur 

nibh purus, imperdiet vel 

semper id, consectetur id 

velit. Maecenas vehicula quam eget 

nisi consectetur finibus. Nullam 

mi purus, laoreet ac tempus a, 

egestas ac dolor. Vivamus cursus a 

sem nec porta. Aenean vulputate 

accumsan congue. Vestibulum 

nec congue nunc. Donec pulvinar 

magna in volutpat porta. Integer 

vel nulla in mauris finibus pharetra. 

Phasellus sem libero, dignissim 

vitae malesuada vitae, venenatis 

ac diam. Orci varius natoque 

penatibus et magnis dis parturient 

montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. 

Duis diam erat, ultricies sit amet mi 

non, aliquet gravida urna. Class 

aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora 

torquent per conubia nostra, per 

inceptos himenaeos. Fusce semper 

malesuada odio, in pellentesque 

142 BritishTravelJournal.com BritishTravelJournal.com 143 

Pictured: Rear 

gardens to 

Nash's House 

next door to 

Shakespeare's 

final residence 

Bristol 

à 


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10 

OF THE BEST 

AUTUMN 

STAYS 

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and 

these places are all certainly that – but they 

also have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

à 


2STAY AND SEE 

WILDLIFE 

Fancy falling asleep to the 

sound of lions roaring and 

waking up to a view of giraffes striding 

past the window? The good news is 

that you don’t have to travel to Africa to 

experience it – just Wiltshire! Longleat 

have opened three stylish new cottages 

within their grounds. Keeper’s Cottage 

(sleeps two) and Keeper’s House (sleeps 

four) are within the safari park itself, while 

East Lodge, the Longleat gatehouse, 

is at the top of the driveway. With each 

booking guests receive park tickets 

for each day of their stay, a welcome 

hamper and continental breakfast. At 

the Keeper’s properties, an exclusive 4x4 

guided safari tour is also included – don’t 

forget the binoculars, as you’re likely 

to see lions, tigers, zebra, rhino, wolves 

and more. Longleat House itself is well 

worth a visit, with its high Elizabethan 

architecture, sumptuous state rooms and 

Capability-Brown-designed grounds. 

Events this autumn and winter include 

a hot air balloon ‘Sky Safari’ and the 

fantastical lanterns of the Festival of Light. 

Cottages from £375 per night. 

longleat.co.uk 

1 

STAY AND DO YOGA 

Unwind, quite literally, on a yoga break in the heart of the 

Yorkshire Dales. Dalesend Cottages are on a private 

estate in the grounds of a much larger house, also available 

for hire. Each of the four exquisite cottages (think: super king-size 

beds, woodburners and free standing baths) sleeps two people 

and guests can take advantage of one of the most enticing on-site 

yoga studios we have seen. Come as a couple or with friends, 

book yourselves in for some of the regular group classes, or private 

sessions with yoga teacher Emma. When you’re not salutating the 

sun, yomp around 25 acres of parkland or strike into the countryside 

of the Yorkshire Dales, dotted with interesting market towns and 

stately homes and gardens. Three-night breaks start from £487 per 

property. Yoga lessons cost extra. 

dalesendcottages.co.uk 


FOODIES 

WILL 

LOVE 

3STAY AND COOK 

Book a break at Hugh Fearnley 

Whittingstall’s River Cottage, in 

a bucolic setting on the Dorset–Devon 

border. Even better, sign up for a cookery course 

(what else?) while you are here. Bedrooms in the 

old farmhouse are whitewashed, comfortable and 

simply stylish. Breakfast is served in a room with 

flagstone floors and an old Esse stove. Courses 

running this autumn range from cider making to 

bread making and cooking over outdoor fires. 

There are lessons in fermenting and foraging, an 

‘Eat Better Forever’ session with Hugh, a one-day 

cookery course and a more in-depth four day 

alternative (with Hugh on veg duty). The Axminster 

Kitchen is standing by to feed you when you’re not in 

the middle of a lesson. There are walks into a nature 

reserve near the house, and the incredible Jurassic 

Coast is just a 10-minute drive away for walks, fossil 

hunts and mackerel-fishing boat trips. 

Doubles from £160 per night, bed and breakfast. 

rivercottage.net 

à 


4EDITOR'S CHOICE 

STAY AND GO ON A 

LLAMA TREK 

Merry Harriers, a charming 16th-century pub set in 

the picturesque village of Hambledon in the Surrey 

Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, must 

be one of the UK’s most charming country inns – with 

new luxurious accommodation and unforgettable 

guest experiences, including llama treks, electric bike 

hire and gin classes, there is so much more here than 

just a hearty pub lunch. 

This wonderfully eccentric inn was refurbished 

a couple of years ago, following new ownership by 

the brilliant Peter de Savary (www.desavary.com) in 

2017, to include four new beautifully designed ensuite 

bedrooms and three ensuite bedrooms in a converted 

barn in the gardens. It is run by husband-and-wife 

team, Sam and Danielle Montgomery-Page, and is 

the only inn in England to offer picnic llama treks with 

its own resident herd. 

The inn is steeped in history, with the landlords’ 

names through the ages written on the pub walls. 

Sustainability conscious, the chefs take pride in 

using the freshest and best ingredients – foraged 

where possible (nettles, blackberries, wild garlic) 

and sourced within a 15-mile radius. The menu offers 

heart-warming freshly cooked traditional pub staples 

and chef’s specials, including exceptional Sunday 

roasts and lighter bites, such as sharing platters, 

smoked salmon, prawn and gazpacho platter, and 

a ham hock terrine. Seasonal specialities are a 


highlight, with wild mushroom and Hambledon nettle risotto 

a current favourite. 

The emphasis on local suppliers continues at the bar, 

where at least two of the four real ales on offer are from 

Surrey Brewers, and the Merry Harriers Garden Cider is 

made using Hambledon apples donated by residents to the 

cider press. Local wines contribute to an impressive wine list 

and freshly mixed cocktails are on offer alongside spirits and 

superior soft drinks. 

Full of character and life, the dog-friendly traditional inn 

is less than an hour from London (five minutes from Milford 

Station), in the picturesque village of Hambledon, just seven 

miles from the charming market town of Haslemere in a 

remarkable pocket of England on the edge of the South 

Downs National Park, a haven for walkers and cyclists. Stay 

and experience the landscape a little differently, with their 

fabulous llama treks and picnics on the Greensand Way, and 

cycle tours in the Hills. 

The herd of lovely llamas now numbers nine, each with 

their own individual character and personality. They have an 

incredibly calming and therapeutic influence and make the 

ideal companion for trekking the outstanding natural beauty 

of the Surrey Hills, with its unique flora, fauna and history. 

The gentle and friendly llamas will carry your picnic as you 

lead them through the spectacular Surrey Hills; from the 

high points you can see as far as the South Downs. Llamas 

are affectionate, intelligent and alert and will draw your 

attention to things you would never normally notice. 

Trips on offer include an English Picnic Trek, a Winter 

Morning Trek – to include lunch back at the Merry Harriers, 

or even a Luxury Champagne Picnic Trek. 

Located deep in rural England, the Surrey Hills have long 

been a place to stay for exceptionally quiet and peaceful 

nights, but with the launch of their new deluxe Shepherd's 

Huts, The Merry Harriers is now your perfect romantic 

getaway for a cosy autumn break. Beautifully positioned 

around a pond on a pretty manicured lawn in a field across 

the road from the inn, they feel snug, safe and secluded. 

They're super cosy inside too, with a log burner, sheepskin 

rugs, super-cute llama cushions, chic and colourful interiors, 

and stylish kitchen and bathroom mod-cons. And of course 

no Shepherd's Hut would be complete without its own firepit 

and blankets to snuggle down ready for some marshmallow 

toasting at sunset. 

Jessica was a guest on The Merry Bikation experience. Prices start 

from £330 and include a two-night stay in your accommodation 

of choice, including Shepherd's Hut, Garden Room or Inn Room, 

cooked breakfast on both mornings, a three-course dinner with 

preferred local ale on one night of your stay and a hearty packed 

lunch for your cycle day in the Hills. Llama Treks are priced from 

£89 per adult, £55 per child or £220 for a family. Cycle tours 

with Surrey Hills Cycle last up to four hours and there is also a 

non-guided tour option and e-bikes available to hire. 

merryharriers.com 

à 


FAMILIES 

WILL 

LOVE 

5 

STAY AND 

ADVENTURE 

There will be no twiddling of the 

thumbs on a break at the new 

Adventure Parc Snowdonia in Gwynedd. 

You’ll be too busy surfing, freefalling, zip 

wiring and cycling or skateboarding on 

a Pump Track. There’s indoor caving and 

assault courses if you’re feeling the cold. 

Off-site, even more activities beckon, 

including coasteering and mountain 

walking – the team can also give advice 

on lots of alternatives to the overtrodden 

Mount Snowdon. The Deli, Bar and Kitchen 

keep everyone fuelled in between all the 

fun. And, if you feel tired even reading 

about that little lot, there is always the 

opportunity to kick back in the spa with 

treatments. Accommodation is in woodland 

or lagoon-side glamping pods (open until 

end of October) that sleep up to four, or at 

the new Hilton Garden Inn. Adventure Parc 

Snowdonia Glamping Pods from £65 per 

night; Hilton Garden Inn Snowdonia doubles 

from £86 per night, room only. 

adventureparcsnowdonia.com 


6STAY AND 

SWIM 

Anthology Farm, near 

Cheltenham, has been 

converted from two 18thcentury 

barns into a selfcatering 

sanctuary. This place 

is all soft natural and muted 

colours, warm Cotswold stone, 

textural fabrics, tasselled 

lights, freestanding baths. It's 

a little bit Scandi, with a touch 

of boho… There’s plenty of 

room for 18 to relax. Of great 

appeal for autumn and winter 

guests is the serene, heated, 

indoor pool, where languorous 

laps can be totted up while 

the weather unfolds over 

the surrounding countryside 

through the huge glass 

windows. Then, wrap up and 

sit by the fire, or maybe watch 

a film on the big projector 

screen. There are 500 acres 

to roam from the door, so you 

can pretty much guarantee 

you won’t see another soul 

on your daily strolls. Anyone 

missing the outside world can 

delve into smart Cheltenham 

or explore the adorable 

villages of the Cotswolds. 

Short breaks from £5,495, one 

week stays from £6,850 

uniquehomestays.com 

7 

STAY AND 

ENJOY THE VIEW 

Pilot House looks, from afar, 

like a giant tin can touched down 

on the grassy shores of the Sound 

of Mull. The circular design, with a 

wraparound balcony, means guests 

can bask in 360-degree views of this 

dazzling Highland landscape and 

out over Ardnarmurchan and the Isle 

of Mull. Inside, Pilot House is a small 

but light-filled space for a couple, 

with the bedroom downstairs and 

the living space upstairs, a spiral 

staircase connecting the two. A 

wood burner keeps out the chill, and 

a tiny office offers a vista to inspire 

would-be novelists and painters. 

Days out could include a ferry trip to 

Tobermory (aka Ballamory) and a 

visit to a whisky distillery. Prices from 

£526 for a three-night minimum stay. 

coolstays.com 

à 


9 

STAY AND 

VISIT NATURAL 

BEAUTY SPOTS 

Set in the gorgeous village of Fontmell 

Magna in north Dorset, this beautiful 

chocolate-box cottage, Fiddlesticks, is on 

the edge of West Wiltshire Downs Area of 

Outstanding Natural Beauty. Nestled in 

the countryside, this wonderful, thatched 

retreat is the perfect home from home 

to restore and recharge. Sleeping eight, 

it has an impressive kitchen and lovely 

gardens, as well as a bubbling cedar 

wood hot tub. Explore this wonderful part 

of England, from the exquisite AONB of 

Cranborne Chase and the vibrant town 

of Dorchester to the famed coastline of 

Studland and Lulworth Cove through to 

Lyme Regis. Surrounded by so much to 

see and do, you'll never lack for days out, 

whether it's pottering in the independent 

shops of Shaftsbury, exploring natural 

beauty spots, such as Hambledon Hill, or 

heading towards the coast where the likes 

of Studland, Lulworth Cove and Lyme 

Regis await. There are fabulous places to 

eat and drink in the area too, and 

The Fontmell, an excellent pub and 

restaurant, is just 400 metres from the 

cottage. Prices from £1,732 for a long 

weekend or midweek break. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

8STAY AND ENJOY YOUR OWN HOST CHEF 

If you are looking for a gastronomic break away and love beams and vaulted 

ceilings, then the boutique converted barn, Shakepear’s Shoes, with uninterrupted 

views of the Warwickshire countryside, is certain not to disappoint. 

It comes with exclusive access to a beautifully equipped outdoor-indoor alfresco 

living and dining space, with ceramic egg barbecue and pizza oven, and host Adam is an 

accomplished chef, available to prepare you anything from afternoon tea to a six-course 

fine dining experience. As night falls this is the perfect spot for toasting giant marshmallows 

around the fire pit, or to simply relax in the hammock with a good book. 

You will also not be short for inspiration on days out, with the delights of Stratfordupon-Avon, 

the beautiful Cotswolds, Leamington Spa, Warwick and Cheltenham, to 

name but a few, all within easy reach. 

Prices from £582 for a three-night stay to include a welcome hamper. Adam offers guests the 

option of a partial or fully catered holiday, as well as bespoke cookery workshops, which can be 

booked as a full- or half-day experience on prior arrangement. 

ruralretreats.co.uk 


GARDENERS 

WILL 

LOVE 

10 

STAY AND EXPLORE 

THE GARDENS 

Homewood is part of a boutique hotel 

collection on our 'ones-to-watch' list. The 

Bath-based Kaleidoscope Collection trio is a burgeoning 

artistic portfolio and also includes The Bird, just a few 

minutes’ mosey from the buzzing epicentre of Bath, 

and the recently acquired Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa, set 

within 27 acres of Wiltshire countryside. 

When it comes to hotel design and interiors, owners 

Ian and Christa Taylor clearly know what they're doing – 

they have been involved in many award-winning projects, 

transforming small properties into beautiful boutique 

hotels using their signature style of unusual eclectic decor 

to create spaces that Alex Polizzi would be proud of. 

Homewood is an eccentric country house hotel that 

has just launched 10 rooms in its new Mallingford Mews, 

each with hot tub suites and balconies. 

There's an Instagram-perfect garden spa with 

indoor and outdoor pool, a new wellness offering from 

Olympian Amy Williams, as well as snazzy dining pods 

on the lawn – perfect for afternoon teas, or celebrations 

at Christmas, when only a dome will do. 

Take a wonderful loop walk through ancient 

woodlands and quiet lanes, taking in the River Frome, 

with a convenient stop-off at Grade-I-listed Iford Manor 

Garden to explore their tranquil grounds, cloister, The 

Peto and Italianate gardens. Prices from £295 per night. 

homewoodbath.co.uk 


HOTEL REVIEW... 

BURGH 

ISLAND HOTEL 

In search of an idyllic private island with magical 

charm, blessed with exotic plants, translucent seas and 

endless amounts of golden sand? Spend your days 

exploring ruined castles, discovering shipwreck tales 

Words | Lydia Paleschi 

UNRIVALLED IN LOCATION, Burgh Island Hotel sits atop its very 

own tidal island off the coast of South Devon and is accessible by 

foot or car only at low tide, twice a day. At high tide, it is possible 

to reach the island via its unique sea tractor, which can navigate 

its way through almost six metres of swell. As the tide rises from 

either side to cover the beach of Bigbury (a notable attraction in its own right 

and recognised as one of the country's best beaches), the hotel's occupants are 

transported back in time to their very own microcosm of 1930s glamour. 

Burgh Island has an eclectic history of smugglers, celebrities and culture alike. 

Known as the second home of Agatha Christie and the setting for her 1939 

novel And Then There Were None, it has also been frequented by a number of 

famous faces, including Josephine Baker, Sir Winston Churchill and President 

Eisenhower. It features a unique architecture, including the addition of the 

Captain’s Cabin of the HMS Ganges – a warship – in the 1930s, which is now 

used as the Nettlefold restaurant, an excellent place to dine on seafood. 

After parking at Bigbury-on-Sea on a blustery November afternoon, we 

were collected by the wonderful hotel driver, Richard and transported to the 


à

island. Here, we were seated in the 

Palm Court and handed a flute of 

Champagne. In doing so, we had 

the perfect opportunity to soak up 

the art deco ambience and oceanic 

views as we waited for our room to 

be prepared. Despite the shoddy 

weather and howling winds battering 

the hotel from all sides (which in itself 

was fantastically atmospheric) we 

sat bathed in light in the Palm Court, 

thanks to its impressive kaleidoscopic 

domed ceiling. Fresh flowers adorned 

the bar top, and the velvet chairs were 

so plush and comfortable that we sank 

Pictured clockwise 

from above: 

Champagne in the 

Palm Court cocktail 

bar; Exterior of Burgh 

Island Hotel; Palm 

Court cocktail bar; 

At high tide, it is 

possible to reach the 

island via its unique 

sea tractor 

instantly into a luxuriously comfortable 

state of bliss. Upon being shown to our 

room – the Nettlefold Suite – we were 

impressed with its warm and inviting 

palette of bronze and brown. Despite 

the November weather, our room was 

cosy and welcoming, with lovely thick 

carpets and bedding. The Nettlefold 

includes a fabulous double bed, which 

gifted us with the best night’s sleep we’d 

had in a long time, as well as a separate 

sitting room. A balcony ran the length 

of the two rooms, the perfect place 

to sit with a pair of binoculars (kindly 

provided) to look over the mermaid 


‘ 

Burgh Island has an eclectic 

history of smugglers, celebrities 

and culture alike. 

’ 

pool and far out to sea. We were told that on some 

occasions you may be lucky enough to spot seals 

perching upon the rocks below. 

As part of our stay we were offered a complimentary 

seven-course taster meal, which required us to dress 

our best in full-black-tie attire. We started in the Palm 

Court Lounge with canapés and cocktails before 

being brought through to the ballroom. With scenes 

of a 1930s dinner party adorning the walls at the far 

end of the room and the accompaniment of a jazz 

piano player throughout all courses, the ballroom 

oozes sophistication. 

The chandeliers sparkled overhead as we were 

served up exquisite cuisine, sourced from high-quality 

local produce and provided with impeccable service 

à 


Pictured left to right: The Mermaid Pool, a 

private natural sea water bathing pool; The 

Pilchard Inn – originally quenching the thirst of 

local fishers and then smugglers, its old-fashioned 

charm and character still remains 

‘ 

One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been 

standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years 

’ 

throughout. The staff were friendly and attentive, and 

both the standard and meat-free options were a delight. 

No detail was overlooked as the food both tasted 

delicious and was presented impeccably. 

A particular favourite course of mine was the 

starter (confit chicken leg, crispy chicken skin, Marcona 

almonds, sweetcorn purée and bacon popcorn) and 

the desert (raspberry bavarois, ruby chocolate glaze, 

meringue, raspberry sorbet). 

Breakfast in the Nettlefold Restaurant the next 

morning was very tasty too. With a variety of options, 

including cooked breakfasts and pancakes, plus a 

continental selection of freshly baked pastries and breads, 

we were able to start the day right. 

Being able to look out of the windows at the ocean 

views and watch windsurfers flying across the waves as the 

tide went back out was a bonus. 

THE PILCHARD 

One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been 

standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years. 

Originally quenching the thirst of local fishers and then 

smugglers, its old-fashioned charm and character still 

remains. Offering a more laid-back setting than the hotel 

itself, the Pilchard serves up lunch and dinner, though it 

is advised to pre-book because it can only seat a limited 

number. 

The Pilchard has an impressive history of its own, with 

notorious smuggler Tom Crocker using it as his hideout 

in the 14th century. Unfortunately for Crocker, he was 

caught and shot on the inn’s doorstep by the authorities. 

LYDIA RECOMMENDS 

At low tide, make the most of Bigbury Beach’s golden 

sand or try your hand at swimming and surfing. 

Alternatively, take a leisurely stroll around the island 

and hotel grounds, go for a dip in the island’s private 

outdoor mermaid pool or try your hand at a game of 

tennis. For those wishing to stay inside, treat yourself 

from a range of spa treatments or kick back and relax in 

the film room. 

The hotel also offers a snooker room, live music 

and ballroom dancing twice a week, and my personal 

favourite – a murder mystery night. 

If you’d like to venture further afield, Bigbury-on-Sea 

and the nearby towns of Salcombe and Kingsbridge are 

accessible by crossing the sand – but be sure to make it 

back before the tide rises! 


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48 HOURS AT THE 

GOODWOOD 

ESTATE 

With over 12,000 acres of nature walks, health and 

wellbeing treatment rooms, sustainable farming, new 

wellness experiences, and divine mouth-watering 

home-grown food, a stay at the Goodwood Hotel has 

more delights besides its renowned vintage cars, planes 

and world-famous festivals. 

Words | Jessica Way 


Pictured 

clockwise from 

left: Goodwood 

House; 

Goodwood 

House, eastern 

façade; view 

over the pond 

towards the 

private gardens; 

Tapestry 

Drawing Room; 

Yellow Drawing 

Room 

THREE MONTHS ago, say 

the words ‘Goodwood’, and I 

would immediately reminisce 

to previous years of the 

Revival, dressing up in my 

best ’60s style, sipping Champagne, and 

dancing with friends between the Spitfires 

and Mustangs. “Give me Goodwood on a 

summer’s day, and you can forget the rest 

of the world”, as described in the words of 

British racing driver, Roy Salvadori. 

There’s absolutely no doubt that events 

such as the Goodwood Revival and the 

Festival of Speed, enjoyed by over 150,000 

visitors each year (during pre-COVID 

times), have propelled Goodwood into 

the worldwide spotlight, under the welldeserved 

accolade as ‘England’s greatest 

sporting estate’. 

More recently, however, I have seen 

Goodwood in another light, entirely away 

from the big crowds and spotlight, more 

simply, as a beautiful escape away from 

the modern world. A place you can leave 

your worries behind and recharge with 

woodland walks between ancient oaks, 

ponder over beautiful paintings, and enjoy 

home-grown organic food. Life flows at a 

different pace at Goodwood. 

Goodwood has been home to the 

same family for over 300 years. Each 

generation has influenced the character and 

appearance of Goodwood, with much of 

the estate staying true to its original form. 

There is perhaps nowhere on the estate 

more true of this than at Goodwood 

House, surrounded in the beautiful 

landscape of the Beech Forest, between 

its majestic cedars with its unique copperdomed 

turrets and grand columned 

portico, which are as beautiful to behold 

as the paintings inside. 

The Front Hall of the house, built in 

1800, serves as the backdrop for three 

paintings by George Stubbs of various 

sporting scenes on the estate, including 

his famous ‘Racehorses Exercising at 

Goodwood’, which hangs over one of two 

marble chimneypieces in the Regency 

entrance. 

There’s also the beautiful 

Anthony Van Dyck portrait of 

à 


‘ 

It was our first taste of the award-winning produce from Goodwood’s 

home farm – and the perfect introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood. 

’ 

King Charles I and his family in the Ballroom, a 

fabulous reminder of its fascinating past. This 

magnificent room is where our wonderful 48 

hours at Goodwood began – with a delightful 

selection of cakes, pastries, and delicious finger 

sandwiches. (Afternoon tea is served in the 

Ballroom between 1pm and 4.30pm each day, 

with bookings made in advance). There is an 

option to book a house tour or combine it with 

a luxury cream tea, and both options are very 

reasonably priced. 

Often I find afternoon teas too sweet and 

sugary to enjoy, but not in this case. Each 

attractive, artistic tantalising tier was entirely 

delicious and comforting. I was surprised at 

how light and palatable it all was, from the 

Goodwood ham and mustard sandwiches, 


from left: afternoon 

tea at Goodwood 

House; Goodwood 

Hotel; Goodwood 

Hotel swimming 

pool; Goodwood 

Hotel reception; 

en-suite bedrooms 

Goodwood House scone with clotted cream 

and strawberry jam (jam first, of course!) to 

the coconut and mango pannacottas. It was 

our first taste of the award-winning produce 

from Goodwood’s home farm – and the perfect 

introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood. 

I savoured the final sips of my Darjeeling 

tea (from the foothills of the Himalayas) along 

with the last raspberry macaron (they serve a 

Macaron of the Month, which changes with the 

season) before being greeted by our lovely guide, 

ready to take us on a private tour of the house. 

Goodwood House is owned by the Duke 

and Duchess of Richmond, Charles Gordon- 

Lennox and Janet Astor, daughter of the third 

Viscount Astor. They married in 1991, and 

live in the West Wing of the house with their 


four children. Between set times, they allow visitors on 

guided tours to admire the grand State Apartments. 

It is a wonderful jaunt of one magnificent room after 

another; the south wing comprises the Ballroom, Card 

Room, Yellow Drawing Room, Red Hall, Egyptian Dining 

Room and Music Room. The outdoor colonnade, with an 

external view of the old house at one end and a glistening 

pond with a perfect view of one of their famous Cedar of 

Lebanon trees, then leads you to the back of the North 

Wing, Long Hall and Tapestry Drawing Room. 

Once checked into the hotel, our fluffy dressing gowns 

and slippers reminded us that some wellness time was 

ours for the taking – following a challenging year dealing 

with the pandemic, being able to take a dip, to sit in a 

sauna and to feel the tension melt away with the relaxing 

bubbles of the Jacuzzi, is a luxury not to be missed. 

Feeling fully relaxed, we spruced ourselves up for 

dinner and made our way to the hotel restaurant: Farmer, 

Butcher, Chef. In true Goodwood style, the restaurant 

is beautifully designed – memorabilia of its former 

hunting days and 300 years of farming line the walls and 

à 


Pictured left to right: aerial view of the 

Downs golf course; Goodwood home 

farm; private dining at Farmer, Butcher, 

Chef restaurant; interior of the Farmer, 

Butcher, Chef restaurant; Jessica relaxing 

in the hotel snug 

decorate the furnishings, in a style so countryside chic and 

luxuriously à la mode, it enters a league of its own. 

Goodwood has designer Cindy Leveson to thank for 

this pizzazz – her distinctive style and talent has sprinkled 

Goodwood magic throughout the hotel interior, from 

the cosy snug and rallying bar to the impactful decor in 

the restaurant. The detail is incredible, from the huge 

glass lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling and Christopher 

Howe chairs made out of Goodwood flags, to the pretty 

butterflies and old keys beautifully displayed in picture 

frames along the walls. Even our table was glass-topped, 

partitioned into several compartments of interesting old 

motoring and clock mechanics. 

The relevance of this remarkable history is understood 

and appreciated with each mouthful of delicious food, 

made from the finest home-grown ingredients and cooked 

to perfection. Dishes such as Spiced Rump South Down 

Lamb and Fillet of Newhaven Cod, enjoyed with a glass 

of (local vineyards) Gusbourne’s or Tinwood’s English 

Sparkling wine, makes it impossible not to order well. 

If you can’t decide, the chef will create a sharing board 

showcasing his various cuts and techniques, using all three 

of their delicious meats. 

I can thoroughly recommend the old-fashioned 

cheesecake for dessert, served with Goodwood’s home 

farm cream and local strawberries. 

The following morning we had a private golf lesson with 

golf professional Chris McDonnell at the Park course (one 

of Goodwood's two 18-hole golf courses on the estate), 

just a short walk from the hotel. 

Available as one of the Goodwood Academy 

experiences, the golf lessons are held with nationally 

acclaimed pros who offer their expertise to players 

of any level, from beginner to expert. Chris was an 

excellent teacher, and there was a fantastic feeling of 

accomplishment, even after just a few successful swings. 

We decided to enjoy lunch al fresco on the terrace at 

The Kennels, their exclusive members’ clubhouse, also 

open to hotel guests, with views across the other of their 

18-hole golf courses on the estate – The Downs, designed 

by five-time Open champion James Braid in 1914. 

There was no departing without a visit to their home 

farm dairy, followed by a visit to the farm shop for some of 

their beautiful deep-red Sussex organic beef to take home 

for a special Sunday roast. 

The Farm Manager has helped to build up an impressive 

customer list of exclusive restaurants and private members' 

clubs, and together with the Executive Chef and Master 


DID YOU KNOW? 

FUN FACTS 

— 

Butcher, has developed Goodwood's impressive 'farm to fork' 

sustainable food philosophy. I am also told about a series of new health 

and wellbeing experiences launching at Goodwood, to include a fiveday 

restorative retreat to help guests rebalance, revitalise and recharge. 

As we pull out of the driveway and begin to head home, an 

impressive convoy of classic two-seater motors, in regal blues, 

beautiful beiges, vibrant reds, and glorious greens, zips past, 

with glimpses of their equally stylish, seriously dapper drivers. 

It's a reminder that Goodwood is more than a hotel, more than 

a racecourse, and more than a countryside sporting estate. 

Goodwood is quintessentially English, a destination for members, 

and, under the first-class management of an exceptional family and 

magnificent team, also for everyone else to enjoy. 

Next time you visit, don't feel you need to make it on race day – 

because every day is a good day to visit Goodwood. 

Three-course dinner at Farmer, Butcher, Chef, overnight stay and 

breakfast at The Goodwood Bar & Grill, from £250 for two 

goodwood.com 

Goodwood Trees 

Goodwood's trees have proved to be an invaluable asset to 

the estate at times. Once an estimated 33,000 Beech trees 

were sold to cover Death Duties. Some of the oldest trees at 

Goodwood are the famous Cedars of Lebanon, planted in 

1761, at the request of the third Duke of Richmond – of the 

original 1000 planted, only a few of these trees remain. 

– 

Cricket Rules 

The rules written for a cricket match in 1727 between the 

2nd Duke of Richmond and Mr Brodrick are the oldest 

written set of rules in the world. You can see them on display 

in the Goodwood Archive. 

– 

Rewilding Projects 

Goodwood staff were involved in a huge woodland 

creation project in December 2019 – the largest of its 

type in the South of England. The ongoing scheme 

will eventually see 40 hectares of new plantations in 

12 locations, with over 78,000 trees arriving on the 

estate. They have also planted an extra 600 metres of 

hedgerow at Goodwood, and rewilded several sections 

of the 11,000 acres to support the local flora and fauna. 

– 

The artist Duke 

The Duke of Richmond, Charles Gordon-Lennox, led a very 

successful career as a high production still life and special 

effects photographer in London and continues his passion 

today (as Charles March). You can see some of his beautiful 

landscape photography around the estate. Since then, he 

has experimented with digital photography to produce highly 

evocative, impressionistic and abstract works that push the 

boundaries traditionally associated with photography. 

– 

Eight -sided masterplan 

Goodwood House looks like three sides of an octagon, 

and it was once believed the plan was intended to build 

the complete figure, but this has never been proved. It is 

not known what the intentions were when this somewhat 

picturesque shape was devised, but the layout certainly works 

perfectly for a private family home combined with grand 

public apartments and far-reaching views over the park. 

– 

Sustainable Farming 

Goodwood Home Farm is one of the largest lowland organic 

farms in the UK and has been fully organic since 1996. 


IMAGE CHERHILL DOWNS © GREAT WEST WAY 


ENGLISH 

WHISKY 

In recent years England has begun to produce sparkling 

wines that rival those produced in Champagne. Now in 

the 2020s it's the turn of English distillers to show that they 

can compete with Scotland's most famous export 


IN BRITAIN, whisky has strong associations with Scotland. So much so in 

fact that in the 19th century the word ‘Scotch’ came to mean whisky not 

only in neighbouring England but all over the British Empire. But that 

hegemony has begun to shift in the last 15 years. In 2006 there was only 

one whisky distillery in England. Now there are more than 30. 

England will never produce the big single malt guns like Laphroaig and 

Tallisker nor the internationally-famous Scottish blends like Johnny Walker 

and Famous Grouse but these days there are some wonderful artisanal 

distillers producing great idiosyncratic whiskies throughout England. These 

small distilleries have been set up all over the country, in Yorkshire and the 

Lake District, on the Suffolk and Norfolk coasts, and of course in London. 

Each pursues its own vision, sometimes even to the point of eccentricity, but 

all of them are producing great whiskies in small batches – and best of all you 

can visit and share in their enthusiasm. 

à 


‘ 

He had the help of his son Andrew, and advisor, Iain Henderson from Laphroaig, 

the only Scottish distillery to be by appointment to HRH Prince Charles... 

’ 

English Whisky Company 

Any whisky tour of England has 

to start with the English Whisky 

Company in Roudham, Norfolk. 

It was here in 2006 that James 

Nelstrop and son Andrew, constructed 

St George’s, England's first whisky 

distillery to be built in over a century. 

The Nelstrop's come from a long 

line of English farmers who can be 

traced back to working the land in 

Yorkshire during the 14th century. 

It was on James's 60th birthday 

that he decided he wanted a new 

venture and chose to produce whisky. 

It was a bold move, but he had the 

help of his son Andrew, and advisor, 

Iain Henderson from Laphroaig, 

the only Scottish distillery to be by 

appointment to HRH Prince Charles. 

Norfolk is in East Anglia, which in 

James’ opinion is one of the few areas 

in England suitable for growing topquality 

malting barley, the essential 

ingredient in single malt whisky. 

The second vital ingredient – water 

– would come from a 160-foot bore 

hole that draws up water of purity and 

high mineral content in Roudham. 

With great confidence, the distillery 

chose to name its single malt The 

English. It now produces eight English 

single malts, each flavoured by the 

barrels in which the whisky matures. 

There is also a grain whisky series 

called The Norfolk which has a 

bowler-hatted seal on its label, a 

nod to the fact that the bowler hat 

was first produced for gamekeepers 

working at Holkham Hall, also in 

Norfolk. The complete range is 

available at the company’s spacious 

modern distillery and visitor centre, 

with its black clapboard exterior and 

cowled roof close to the Thetford 

Forest Park. 


Pictured previous page: St George's 

Distillery, Roundham, Norfolk 

Pictured clockwise from left: Adnams 

Copper House Distillery; East London 

Distillery's Andy Mooney carrying a cask; 

casks at the East London Distillery; Andrew 

Nelstrop, Chairman of The English Whisky 

Co who helped set up the business with his 

father, James 

Adnams 

Across the border in Suffolk, in the 

picture-perfect coastal village of 

Southwold, stands Adnams, which 

was originally founded in 1872 but 

as a brewery, not a distillery. The 

enterprise was set up by two Suffolk 

brothers, George and Ernest Adnams. 

In the 20th century their substantial 

brick-built factory produced huge 

amounts of ales and ciders for Suffolk 

and beyond. 

The building was a familiar site for 

visitors with its mechanical figure of 

‘Southwold Jack’ on its exterior. Jack’s 

job was intended to sound the hours 

by striking his axe against the metal 

bell that hung over him. 

Moving with the times, in 2010 

Adnams successfully challenged 

an old English law that prevented 

brewers from having a distillery on 

the same premises. This enabled the 

firm to build a new Copper House 

Distillery behind the old premises to 

make gin, vodka and whisky, all from 

the same locally sourced ingredients 

– Suffolk barley, rye, wheat, and oats 

– that go into Adnams beers. 

There are now three reasonably 

priced whiskies made on-site, a Single 

Malt, a Triple Malt (made with wheat, 

barley and oats) and a Rye Malt 

Whisky. All are aged in oak barrels 

and you can buy a sample pack of all 

three in 20cl bottles (£41.99) from the 

busy visitor centre. 

East London Distillery 

A very different whisky 

experience is on offer at the 

East London Distillery on Bow 

Wharf in Hackney. The building 

is a low, grey-painted former 

glue factory that faces on to the 

old Regent's Canal. The East 

London Liquor Company was 

founded here by former actor 

and bartender Alex Wolpert 

who stands for “Great spirits 

without the crafty bullshit. 

Everyone should have good 

booze for good prices from 

good people. It sounds radical, 

but it shouldn’t.” 

Since July 2014 Wolpert’s selfstyled 

People’s Drinks Company 

has been producing and 

importing a wide range of spirits, 

including gins, vodka, rum and 

whisky. Success came quickly. In 

its first year his team of five were 

producing 1,000 bottles of gin a 

month for East London bars and 

restaurants. 

Because of regulations, 

whisky cannot be released for 

three years, but today there is an 

East London Wheat Whisky, an East 

London Rye, and a new East London 

Blend, which is a cross-Atlantic 

collaboration with the Bourbon 

produced by Sonoma Distilling 

Company in California. Wolpert 

describes the blend as “chock-full of 

sweet corn, brandy-soaked cherries, 

fresh grass, and not for the fainthearted.” 

The East London Distillery is proud 

that its neighbours are “canalside 

warehouses and old school boozers” 

and indeed the exposed brickwork 

of the distillery’s interior gives it an 

edginess that matches its claim to 

serve “kick-ass cocktails”. 

à 


Bimber 

Twelve miles to the west, on the 

other side of London, is another 

remarkable distillery, set up by 

two long-term Polish immigrants 

Dariusz Plazewski and Ewelina 

Chruszczyk. Bimber is the Polish 

word for ‘moonshine’ or illegally 

distilled spirits. It’s also the name the 

couple chose for their new distillery, 

tucked away in the unassuming 

Park Royal industrial estate. 

Bimber brings to British whisky 

the skills perfected over centuries 

by Polish moonshiners, but it 

applies them legally. The distillery 

laid down its first casks in May 

2016 and released the inaugural 

single malt whisky, known as The 

First just over three years later. All 

1,000 hand-numbered bottles sold 

out within three hours. Bimber puts 

its success down to handcrafted 

traditional techniques and the 

founders’ passion for single malt 

whisky. 

The barley used here is grown on 

a single farm near Basingstoke and 

traditionally dried in Warminster 

Maltings. It’s then hand-mashed 

and fermented slowly for seven days 

in wooden washbacks at Bimber. 

These washbacks were handmade 

by the company’s own coopers. 

This highly artisanal approach 

continues with direct fire being used 

to heat unusually small copper 

pot stills. Absolutely no computers 

come near the production process. 

Everything is based on the artisanal 

human senses of smell, taste and 

even touch. 

After maturing in hand-selected 

casks – charred oak, bourbon, 

sherry and oloroso – this precious 

and reassuringly expensive whisky is 

bottled on-site. As far as is possible 

today, this is how whisky might have 

been made centuries ago. 

The Oxford Artisan Distillery 

Fifty miles north of Bimber along 

the A40 stands The Oxford Artisan 

Distillery, known locally as TOAD. 

TOAD is another new venture and 

one that burst on the market in 2017 

with an excellent Oxford Dry Gin that 

used a picture of Mr Toad himself (as 

drawn by Ernest Shepard) on its label. 

TOAD is the first legal distillery 

in Oxford and occupies a charming 

position in tatty old farm buildings 

at the top of Headington Hill. Its 

founder, Tom Nicolson was inspired 

to make a commitment to the ‘grainto-glass’ 

ethos of handcrafting gin, 

vodka and spirit of rye using grain 

specially grown for the distillery. To 

this end, the archaeo-botanist John 

Letts helped TOAD find and plant 

medieval heritage grains that were 

commonplace in England before the 

rise of industrialised agriculture. 

In keeping with its self-consciously 

eccentric, not to say theatrical style, 

TOAD’s master distiller Cory Mason 

commissioned two very special 

steam-punk stills, named Nautilus 

and Nemo, like something out of Jules 

Verne, to do the work. These are now 

producing TOAD’s first whisky. It’s 

actually a pure rye whisky that costs 

£75 a bottle, the most expensive 

product from this ambitious distillery. 

Rye is thought by many to be the new 

direction for whisky in the 2020s. It 

has a distinctive taste and makes for 

great cocktails. 

A visit to TOAD is always fun. 

Despite the company’s huge success 

they give the impression they’re a 

bunch of guys who like putting spirits 

together to see what happens. 


Pictured clockwise from left: Casks at the Bimber Distillery; Farm grain; 

Oxford Rye whisky; Nemo – one of the stills inside The Oxford Artisan Distillery; 

Stills inside the Bimber Distillery 

‘ 

A visit to TOAD is always fun. Despite the company’s huge success they 

give the impression they’re a bunch of guys who like putting spirits together 

to see what happens. 

’ 

à 


Pictured left to right: Cotswolds Distillery; 

Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky 

‘ 

Scotland will always have the gravitas... but it’s clear that English whisky is doing 

things the Scots have never dreamt of... and that the English are coming. 

’ 

Cotswolds Distillery 

A slicker – but equally welcoming 

– operation is at the Cotswolds 

Distillery, just south of Stratfordupon-Avon. 

Dan Szor who built the distillery 

is a New Yorker who made a small 

fortune in the City of London and 

dearly wanted to create whisky from 

all those barley fields surrounding 

his Cotswold home. So in 2014 he 

opened this distillery, and its gin 

– with its lovely hints of lavender – 

became a quick success. Gin is a 

favourite start-up product for whisky 

producers because it provides a quick 

turnaround on investment. 

This distillery is located in idyllic 

countryside in a new building 

constructed of local honey-coloured 

stone and richly seasoned wood. 

It looks like a beautifully designed 

barn conversion. There is a shop and 

café, and a seductive tasting room 

with leather sofas that makes you feel 

that you’re staying in the spacious 

country cottage of a very wealthy 

friend. No expense has been spared. 

Upstairs are two more rooms, one for 

serious whisky tasting and one for gin. 

Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky is now 

available in several editions. There is 

the Single Malt, the Founder’s Choice, 

three single malts from flavoured casks 

– peated, sherry and Sauternes – and 

Lord Mayor's Single Reserve, which 

was blended for the 691st Lord Mayor 

of London, Peter Estlin who has been 

a keen supporter of the Cotswolds 

Distillery from its inception. 

Scotland will always have the 

gravitas and will continue to dominate 

the market but it’s clear that English 

whisky is doing things the Scots have 

never dreamt of. Later this year an 

English Guild of Distillers will be 

launched to create a regulatory body 

to maintain quality and decide what 

we actually mean when we talk of an 

English Scotch. Whatever it decides in 

the world of whisky there is no doubt 

that the English are coming. 

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY 

Filey Bay Whisky 

Yorkshire's first ever single malt whisky is 

created with 100% homegrown barley 

on the Hunmanby coast, at the Spirit 

of Yorkshire Distillery. There are views 

of beautiful Filey Bay from the distillery, 

and a unique field-to-bottle process is used. 

spiritofyorkshire.com 

And if you’re going to Scotland... 

Johnnie Walker Princes Street 

In Edinburgh a new eight-floor visitor 

experience has opened celebrating the 

world's best-selling Scotch. Johnnie 

Walker is a blended whisky dating 

from 1820. Scottish blends have 

been slightly overlooked since the 

meteoric rise of Single Malts at the 

end of the 20th century. But not any 

more. Johnnie Walker Princes Street is 

crowned by two superb rooftop bars – 

the Explorers' Bothy (for whisky-tasting 

experiences) and the 1820 Cocktail Bar 

(for food pairings). 

johnniewalker.com 


Iconic architecture, rich 

heritage, exquisite cocktails 

In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4 

Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire 

Hello@bombaysapphire.com | 01256 890090 

BOOK YOUR GIN EXPERIENCE TODAY: BOMBAYSAPPHIRE.COM/DISTILLERY 

Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10 (until 31/12/21)

VIBRANT 

CITIES 

TO VISIT THIS AUTUMN 

This is the ideal time to visit one of our great cities. The summer 

crowds have dispersed and there’s always a cute café, diverting shop 

or fascinating museum beckoning you in, should the weather turn 

Words | Emma O’Reilly 

YOU CAN’T BEAT THE BUZZ 

of a city. From boat-lined canals 

to grand palaces and sweeping 

countryside, Britain’s cities and their 

surrounding areas are packed with romantic 

charm, culture and history, offering something 

new and exciting to discover at every turn. 

So if a walk through London’s ‘Little Venice’ 

or exploring ‘Mr Darcy’s’ grand estate near 

Manchester sound like dream getaways, here’s 

how to add a touch of enchantment to future 

city stays, whether exploring by foot, bike or on 

the water. 

London’s canals and open-air theatres 

Discover the capital’s tranquil side with an 

atmospheric autumnal walk along Regent’s 

Canal, just north of Paddington. 

This nine-mile canal-side walk starts in 

picturesque Little Venice, continues past the 

historic locks to Camden Town and finishes 

in London Docklands. For some laid-back 

romance you could explore Regent’s Canal 

by boat. Options include Jason’s Trip, which 

has been delighting visitors since 1951, passing 

sights such as Regent’s Park, Cumberland 

Basin and Primrose Hill along the way. 


Pictured clockwise from left: 

St Paul's cathedral; smallcar 

BIGCITY fleet of restored classic 

Mini Coopers; Glass atrium at 

NoMad Hotel London; Trafalgar 

Square; The National Gallery 

Or, book onto a quirkier walking tour to get under 

the skin of the city – an eating or cultural tour around 

Brick Lane and Spitalfields, one with a local architect 

around some of London’s more interesting buildings, 

a Sherlock Holmes or a Brit Movie tour, for example. 

With smallcarBIGCITY you can even enjoy a themed 

driving tour of your choice in a Classic Mini Cooper. 

New cultural highlights for 2021 include the Alice: 

Curiouser and Curiouser exhibition at the V&A (until 

31 December 2021) and the world’s largest touring 

exhibition of Banksy artworks is in the West End 

(until 21 November). As night falls, head to the 

award-winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre, 

with performances of classic plays, including Romeo 

& Juliet and Carousel (until 30 September). 

Our top tip: Indulge in afternoon tea – whether you 

go glam at The Ritz or hip at Sketch. 

Stay at: NoMad London, formerly Bow Street 

Magistrates Court, in Covent Garden, 

launched in the spring. We love the spectacular 

landscaped glass atrium used for dining. 

Doubles from £383 per night, room only 

thenomadhotel.com 

à 


Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and Country Park 

Brighton is packed with romantic landmarks, many of which 

reveal the region’s royal connections. Future explorers can 

revel in the grandeur of the Royal Pavilion. Built in the 18th 

century for King George IV, it was subsequently used by 

King William IV and finally Queen Victoria. A Brighton 

institution, it is known as a beacon of luxury, awash with 

opulent treasures and topped with majestic domes. Visitors 

longing to explore this regal home can enjoy a virtual tour 

of the Royal Pavilion, before booking the real thing. The 

palace is currently furnished with over 120 remarkable 

decorative works of art on loan from Her Majesty the 

Queen. Originally commissioned by the Prince Regent, the 

items have been relocated from Buckingham Palace and 

reunited in their former home until January 2022. 

Our top tip: Longing for the great outdoors? Why not 

experience the romantic landscapes of Seven Sisters 

Country Park, part of the South Downs National Park. 

Marvel at the sprawling white cliffs, winding waterways 

and unspoilt grasslands. 

Stay at: Artist Residence, a hotel encapsulating the 

spirit of a town into one building; creative, bohemian and 

downright eccentric. The 24-bedroom townhouse is at the 

head of Regency Square and each room is a riot of original 

artwork and local character. Doubles from £255 

artistresidence.co.uk 

Manchester’s Gothic library and grand estate 

Known for its impressive architecture, independent shops 

and trendy cafés, Manchester's buzzy metropolis has 

plenty of entertainment. Culture vultures and rain dodgers 

will enjoy the dedicated fashion section, launching in 

November, at Manchester Art Gallery. The first exhibition is 

on ‘dandy’ style (attention, Bridgerton fans). 

More creative inspiration is on offer in the city’s Northern 

Quarter, crammed with independent clothes, jewellery and 

craft shops (don’t miss the multi-floored Affleck’s Palace), 

record stores, cafés and bars. 

Pictured clockwise from above: Brighton’s Royal Pavilion; 

Manchester's Northern Quarter street art; Hallé St Peter’s, 

Ancoats, in Manchester's Northern Quarter 


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eat explore experience 

Visit Exeter for seriously stylish shops, a diverse cultural scene and top eateries 

serving the best of Devon’s food and drink. Add 2,000 years of history into 

the mix and it’s easy to see why everyone’s talking about Exeter! 

www.visitexeter.com

IMAGES © VISITENGLAND / VISITLONDON.COM/JON REID / JAMES BILLINGS / NTPL/MATTHEW ANTROBUS 

Our top tip: Take time to visit Lyme Park, an Italianate 

palace that became Mr Darcy’s grand residence in the 

BBC’s adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, just 20 miles 

south of the city centre. 

The 1,400-acre estate is home to a large herd of deer, 

a lake and a fragrant rose garden. Jane Austen fans can 

also enjoy an atmospheric Pemberley walk, which takes in 

several picturesque filming locations. 

There's also the new RHS Garden Bridgewater just 

outside the city – at 154 acres it’s Europe’s largest garden 

project, or the brand new ‘I’m a Celebrity…Jungle Challenge’ 

at MediaCityUK, with its fun challenges and trials. 

Stay at: Be one of the first to stay at the 10-floor Resident 

Hotel (formerly Nadler Hotels) within the brand new St 

John's Place development – an enormous neighbourhood 

on the former site of Granada Studios, incorporating 

residential homes, world-class hotels, a work space, 

intimate streets, lively courtyards and The Factory (billed 

as the North of England’s new flagship cultural venue) 

although the date of opening is still uncertain. 

There's also Brewdog’s new hotel, DogHouse, the world’s 

first craft beer hotel. Doubles from £150 per night, including 

draft beer tap and beer fridge in shower. 

residenthotels.com; stjohnsmanchester.com; brewdog.com 

Wellness in Winchester 

This well-heeled little place has all the ingredients for a 

wonderful weekend break. Winchester does tradition 

well, from its cavernous cathedral to its highly regarded 

independent school, Winchester College. History oozes 

from many other buildings. The Westgate Museum details 

the area’s Tudor and Stuart history and is housed in the last 

remaining medieval gateway into the city. The Great Hall, 

the only remaining part of Winchester Castle, is home to 

King Arthur’s legendary Round Table. 

Just outside the city are a slew of stately homes, as is Jane 

Austen’s House in Chawton. History with a modern twist 

comes courtesy of a former silk mill, newly opened as Inn the 

Park in Winchester’s Abbey Gardens. The space combines an 

open grill restaurant, bar, café and wine room. 

Our top tip: Jane Austen fans can also do a guided tour of 

Jane Austen’s Winchester. 

Stay at: Lainston House Hotel, a 17th-century mansion 

Exclusive Hotel, offering tennis, fishing and falconry. 

Prices from £176 per room, per night. 

Or for location (walking distance of the city centre) you can't 

beat the very first Hotel du Vin, which is still providing luxury 

at a good price. Doubles from £99 per night, room only. 

exclusive.co.uk; hotelduvin.com 



from left: Manchester's 

Lyme Park; Inn the Park 

at Winchester’s Abbey 

Gardens; Mural at 2-Tone 

Village, Coventry Music 

Museum, Coventry 

City Culture 

Coventry City of Culture 

You won’t mind getting sent here, especially as Coventry 

celebrates being UK City of Culture 2021 with art exhibitions 

and cultural events taking place throughout the year. Plus, 

look out out for The Show Windows – ambitious window 

installations designed by local architects – and specially 

commissioned street art. At the Herbert Art Gallery & 

Museum, a new exhibition ‘Hyper-Possible’ runs from 

October. Also here are paintings of bold local lass, Lady 

Godiva (a statue of her naked on a horse is on the street 

nearby). Coventry’s medieval cathedral was left devastated 

after World War II and a beautiful 20th-century replacement 

with abstract stained-glass windows sits alongside. It’s typical 

of the city, which was heavily bombed. Expect brutalist car 

parks alongside Tudor cottages – a heavenly hotchpotch. 

Our top tip: Coventry Music Museum (including the 

2-Tone Village) is a must-visit for music fans 

Stay at: The Telegraph Hotel, which opened in May 

is a conversion of the local newspaper offices. 

Doubles from £67 per night, room only. 

à 

telegraph-hotel.com 


St David’s 

How can a village become a city? When it has a cathedral 

of course and the one in St David’s is large, given the tiny 

population. It’s a charming place, with historic sites, shops 

and restaurants – including the UK’s first insect restaurant, 

Grub Kitchen. There are also alternatives for those with 

more conventional appetites. It’s easy to potter away 

for many an hour, but what’s on the doorstep is worth 

exploring. St David’s is on the Pembrokeshire Peninsula, 

with magnificent coastline all around. In autumn and 

winter you’ll have it mostly to yourself for windswept walks 

or horse riding. Or why not wrap up in a wetsuit for some 

winter surfing? 

Stay at: Twr y Felin – Wales’ first contemporary art hotel 

has just doubled in size. New rooms have balconies with 

views over St Bride’s Bay. Doubles from £200 per night. 

twryfelinhotel.com 

Our top tip: The night sky is often incredible in west Wales. 

If staying at Twr y Felin book a Star Gazing Hamper, which 

includes binoculars, torches, a constellations guidebook, 

camping chairs and a thermos of ‘tiddly’ hot chocolate. 

A Royal weekend in Edinburgh 

The place to start is Edinburgh Castle, the former royal 

residence and military base which sits atop Castle Rock. 

There’s lots to see inside and outside and there’s the bonus 

of 360-degree city views. Back in the Old Town, walk The 

Royal Mile to another regal residence, Holyrood House. 

The Royal Yacht Britannia, moored up in Leith, was 

the holiday home to the Queen for many years. Today it’s 

one of the best museums in the UK – and don't miss our 

competition to win tickets and a Champagne lunch on 

board for two (britishtraveljournal.com/competitions). Tea 

and scones in the onboard tearoom is a must. 

You might also like to book a table at nearby Martin 

Wishart or The Kitchin, both Michelin-starred. By night, 

there are bars aplenty, and it would be rude not to try the 

local tipple at Whiski Rooms or The Scotch Whisky Society 

– choose from hundreds of rare single and blended malts 

and order some food to soak it all up. 

Our top tip: Try to be at Edinburgh Castle for the one 

o’clock gun salute. 

Stay at: The new Moxy Edinburgh Fountainbridge. It’s 

on the site of a famous brewery and has playful, slightly 

irreverent interiors plus a rooftop bar with great views. 

Doubles from £66 per night. 

marriott.com 


Durham’s cathedral and rowing boats 

The city has one of the UK’s most impressive cathedrals, 

perched imposingly over the River Wear. See it from the 

outside, inside and the top (brave the 137 steps up the 

Northwest Tower for worth-it views). 

New this autumn is Museum of the Moon, a giant 

seven-metre sculpture that will hang from the ceiling of the 

cathedral, with atmospheric accompanying music. 

You can hire rowing boats on the river until the end of 

September but most visitors are content to just wander the 

cobbled streets and do like the uni students by hanging 

out in the bars and cafés. Or, book in for some fine dining 

at Finnbars or The Cellar Door. There’s more nighttime 

entertainment during Lumiere Durham (18–21 November) 

with fantastical light installations and projections all over the 

city. It’s a great time to visit. 

Our top tip: Go for a yomp in the Durham Dales to see the 

spectacular High Force waterfall. 

Stay at: Hotel Indigo combines Victorian features with slick 

modern facilities. Doubles from £125 per night. 

hotelindigo.com 

Oxford’s colleges and museums 

The city of ‘dreaming spires’ is famed for its illustrious 

university. The colleges with their quads, cloisters and 

gardens are mostly open to the public. Other amazing 

university buildings include The Bodleian Libraries – 

such as the circular, neoclassical Radcliffe Camera 

and Duke Humfrey’s Library, which doubled as the 

Hogwarts Library in the Harry Potter films. 

Oxford is crammed with museums. Favourites 

include the Ashmolean, with everything from Egyptian 

mummies to modern art. Then there's The Pitt Rivers 

Museum: a quirky collection of treasures from around 

the world collected by one man on his travels. 

Our top tip: Don’t miss the chance to hang out in a 

studenty waterhole. J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis used 

to enjoy pints together at the Eagle & Child. 

Stay at: The Randolph Hotel by Graduate – this 

grande dame of a hotel reopened in the summer under 

new ownership and with a ‘new old’ look. 

Doubles from £225 per night, bed and breakfast. 

graduatehotels.com 


from bottom left: 

Pembrokeshire 

Peninsula; Twr y 

Felin Hotel; The 

Royal Yacht 

Britannia; 

Edinburgh Castle; 

The Randolph Hotel; 

Luke Jerram’s 

Museum of the 

Moon illuminates 

the nave at Ely 

Cathedral – and 

will be at Durham 

Cathedral this 

September 2021 


48 HOURS IN... 

EXETER 

Thought holidays to Devon were mostly about 

seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s time to 

leave behind the beach towels and flip flops and 

prepare for a cultural citybreak like no other. Exeter 

might be small, but it is perfectly formed, with worldclass 

museums, excellent food, beautiful new hotels, 

historic streets, and picturesque waterways... 

Words | Jessica Way 

IT'S A GREAT FEELING to visit one of the UK's most up-and-coming cities as though you 

are just slightly ahead of the curve, discovering valuable insights as if somehow sneaking 

in there just before everyone else. That’s exactly how I felt touring and speaking to the 

locals on my recent weekend city break to Exeter. You've most probably travelled past this 

beautiful historic city (pre-dating the arrival of the Romans in AD 50) or passed through it 

while en-route to Devon and Cornwall, but perhaps dismissed it as your final destination? 

Hopefully, my description of time spent in this eco-conscious re-imagined city will encourage 

you to reconsider this as a wonderful city break with great food, culture and varied attractions. 

And it would seem I am not alone in my enthusiasm for the city – stylish brands, including 

glamorous restaurant chain The Ivy and luxury hotel chain IHG, have moved in too. Opposite 

the Cathedral overlooking the green, The Ivy has just opened following a refurbishment to 

Exeter’s landmark City Bank; it is the newest Ivy and first of its kind in Devon and Cornwall. 

Nearby, luxury hotel brand IHG has announced plans to open Hotel Indigo Exeter, complete 

with an urban spa and rooftop bar and lounge, housed in the former House of Fraser 

department store on the city’s High Street (opposite The White Company store). 

Exeter is also home to Royal Clarence Hotel, described as England's oldest hotel. Located in 

Cathedral Yard, sadly this Grade-II listed, 53-bedroom hotel was severely damaged in a fire just 

over five years ago – the property has since been under the ownership of Andrew Brownsword 

Hotels and now James Brent of South West Lifestyle Brands, who are said to be undertaking 

restoration work to open a 74-bedroom hotel with reconstructed façades. 

à 


Pictured clockwise from bottom left: The quaint historic estuary port 

of Topsham; views from the Exeter Cathedral rooftop guided tour; 

Exeter Cathedral, properly known as the Cathedral Church of Saint 

Peter; Jessica riding an e-bike through Exeter's historic Cathedral Yard; 

Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street 

Exeter is where Chris Martin from Coldplay was born, attending 

the city’s oldest school, Exeter Cathedral School while finding his 

passion for music, and where Harry Potter author JK Rowling went 

to University – one of the UK's elite Russell Group universities. Rugby 

fans will of course know all about the famous Exeter Chiefs, and 

might want to arrange a trip around 25 September this year, to watch 

them take on Northampton Saints in an English Premiership fixture. 

Foodies will love the annual Exeter Festival of South West Food & 

Drink, a real highlight in the year, although sadly postponed in 2021 

due to the pandemic, but it plans to be back on next spring. 

Whether visiting for the festive season (Exeter Cathedral 

Christmas Market will be running 18 November–18 December) or as a 

city break avoiding the crowded coastlines during the summer, Exeter 

is certain not to disappoint – I hope you enjoy my highlights... 

DAY ONE 

Exeter is compact, revolving around the Cathedral and green in 

the heart of the city: Shops from the popular big names are in the 

neighbouring High Street and Princesshay precinct. The remains of the 

Medieval city walls, originally built by the Romans, and pretty cobbled 

streets, lead to the independent boutiques and trendy coffee shops in 

and around Gandy Street and the West Quarter. 

Our visit coincided with the Cathedral restarting their rooftop 

guided tours, and Graham our steward couldn't have been a better 

tour host. The views over the city are incredible, but equally the 

behind-the-scenes architecture – from the flying buttress bridging to 

the wooden infrastructure inside the longest uninterrupted vaulted 

medieval ceiling in Europe – was fascinating. 

We wandered across to the Cathedral Yard, where we enjoyed 

an al fresco lunch with views of the Cathedral at Eat on the Green. 

Previously this independently owned restaurant (by local Ben 

Mangan) was called Tea on the Green, but there is much more to his 

impressive, locally sourced menu than the previous name suggests – 

though don’t worry, Devon Cream Teas are still available! 

It was a pleasure to meet Ben, a proud father of twins who also 

attended Exeter Cathedral School. He told us how his meat comes 

from the local Hele Farm (so close you can see it from the upstairs 

window), his beers and ciders from Devon and Cornwall brewers, and 

how pleased he was that we were highlighting Exeter. 

“It really doesn’t get enough recognition, and is such a brilliant 

city. There’s a great atmosphere and sense of community here 

in Exeter," he said, crediting the many successful independent 

businesses, and the acceptance and togetherness of students and 

locals living and thriving together. 


‘ 

For curious travellers with a desire for 

self-guided exploration, electric bike 

hire is just brilliant – especially in Exeter 

where there are quite a few hills! 

’ 

Following a delicious Waldorf salad and passion fruit smoothie, 

it was time to say a warm farewell and continue with our sightseeing 

adventures. Just a short walk away to the Civic Centre and we hired 

‘on-demand’ e-bikes (co-bikes.co.uk) – a game-changer for cities 

like Exeter to attract tourists. For curious travellers with a desire for 

self-guided exploration, electric bike hire is just brilliant – especially in 

Exeter where there are quite a few hills! 

The app is super easy to use, you unlock your bike with a code 

sent to your phone, pay by the hour and you don’t even have to return 

the bike to the station you collect it from – there are stops across the 

city, including at the two central train stations (Exeter St David’s and 

Exeter Central), Topsham and across the road from Exeter Works in 

Dix’s Field. It has also been made as safe as possible, with many cycle 

lanes, signage and traffic lights for cyclists throughout the city – which 

is not too big and daunting to navigate. 

We spent a lovely afternoon in Topsham, a beautiful estuary town 

on the River Exe, with a rich maritime history. Visit Topsham Museum, 

housed in an elegant 17th-century Dutch-style merchant house, to 

find out more about the history of the town, or enjoy a glass of wine 

at one of the pubs overlooking the boats and paddleboarders before 

dinner, or watch the sunset from the famous Goat Walk. 

For dinner, we visited Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street. This 

was a special highlight of our trip – as well as serving delicious food, 

Harry’s has a really great backstory. The architecture and interiors are 

beautiful – the property was formerly ‘Harry Hems’, a 19th-century 

architectural sculptors’ workshop (framed black-and-white photos of 

the historic building and workshop are displayed on the old red brick 

Gothic-style interior walls) that dates back to 1883. 

Following a renovation a couple of years ago, the interiors are 

sublime. Luxurious and modern, it’s more trendy Mayfair than busy 

Exeter – think: dark green and burnt oranges, regal leather sofas, 

tongue and groove panelling, parquet flooring, soft grey blankets, 

Cowshed toiletries, an abundance of hanging plants and elegantly 

dressed tables. 

Simon and Annette Pounds opened the restaurant in 1993. 

Daughter, Samantha Pounds, took over the running of the business 

and is now at the helm. All four of her daughters (Phoebe, Zoe, 

Tigerlily and India) work alongside her, while also juggling successful 

careers, including in law and the Army. We were served by Amy, an 

Australian and close family friend of the Pounds. She was fantastic 

and clearly passionate about the restaurant. She told us the team 

were “inseparable” and once included British singer-songwriter Will 

Young (before he won Pop Idol). 

Menu highlights include a mouthwatering selection of dryaged 

steaks sourced from local suppliers, Darts Farm Butchers, 

locally caught fish of the day and Devon crab linguine. I opted for 

their toasted brioche lobster roll and it was absolutely delightful. 

Elderflower sorbet completed the experience and it was time to get 

some rest, ready for the next day. 

We were thrilled with a Deluxe room at Hotel du Vin Exeter, a city 

oasis within walking distance of both the Cathedral and Quay. The 

grand 19th-century building formerly housed the West of England Eye 

Hospital and has beautifully landscaped historic walled gardens with 

a circular lawn, an outdoor swimming pool, spa and contemporary 

bedroom decor – an ideal base for exploring the city. 

à 


DAY TWO 

Feeling more at home with the city centre we decided to head down 

to Exeter’s waterfront quay for a day by the river. We made our 

way down Stepcote Hill, Exeter’s oldest surviving street, passing 

the pretty half-timbered houses. At the bottom on West Street 

you’ll be greeted by the curiosity that is The House that Moved – a 

fascinating three-storey timber-framed merchant's house, which 

quite literally was moved from its original home at the corner of 

Edmund Street and Frog Street. Also in this area is St Mary Steps 

Church, of 12th-century origin with an amazing early-17th-century 

Matthew the Miller clock with figures that strike the hour. 

At the quayside there are many places to grab a coffee or to 

browse quirky independent shops for a gift to take home. Feeling 

ready for an adventure, we hired some stand-up paddleboards from 

AS Watersports (the place to go for kayaks, canoes, paddleboards 

and more). In addition to the hire, they offer tuition and have a huge 

showroom filled with kayaks and equipment for sale – everything 

you need to get on the water and experience watersports. 

For lunch, we headed to On the Waterfront – famous for their 

dustbin-lid pizzas, they also serve great tapas and offer a really 

good selection of locally sourced beers, wines and spirits. 

Having been so impressed with our e-bikes from the day 

before we decided to go for a bike ride along the river, passing 

the Climbing Centre on Exeter Quay – the South West's largest, 

dedicated indoor climbing wall. Had there been time and energy left 

in our legs we definitely would have stopped for a quick bouldering 

session. We soon reached the Double Locks traditional country pub 

located on the banks of the 16th-century Ship Canal. You can’t beat 

the location! They have a huge beer garden with areas covered and 

heated, so perfect for keeping socially distanced. 

That evening we stopped for food at Pieminister – set up 

almost 20 years ago by friends Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon after 

travelling around Australia in their early twenties, where they 

found themselves eating pies every day. They came home full of 

determination to reinvigorate the humble British pie. 

In 2003 they set up shop in Stokes Croft, Bristol. Soon they 

had a stall at London’s famous Borough Market, then a pitch at 

Glastonbury. They have grown over the years, and now employ 

around 300 people, but they still make all their pies in their Bristol 

kitchens – and are themselves still eating pies every day! Don't miss 

their Bottomless Lunches, where you have an hour and a half to 

enjoy brunch pies with unlimited Prosecco or cocktails. 

However you choose to spend your time in Exeter, the city is 

ready to welcome you with open arms, and there are plenty of green 

and open outdoor spaces, making it is easy to explore safely. From 

the city’s rich history to the many beautiful cycle trails and miles of 

meandering waterways, whether on bike, foot, kayak or ferry there’s 

a surprise waiting at every turn. 

Pictured below: Jessica parks and locks her electric bike 

from a code sent through the app; Double Locks 

18th-century inn with outdoor seats by the canal locks 

“ 

We soon reached the Double Locks 

traditional country pub located on the 

banks of the 16th century Ship Canal. 

You can’t beat the location! 

” 

Jessica was a guest of Visit Exeter and Hotel du Vin 

visitexeter.com 


WIN 

FOODIE BREAK 

Escape to the City 

STAYING IN A LUXURY HOTEL IN EXETER, 

EATING OUT AT HARRY’S AND ROCKFISH! 

EXETER IS ENJOYING A FOOD 

and drink revolution with more and 

more great eating establishments 

and international menus. 

There are cafés and teashops in charming 

historic buildings, bistros with great views, 

and independent restaurants serving 

top quality Devon produce. 

Head to Princesshay or Queen St Dining 

for plenty of choice of eateries serving 

international cuisines. If you’re eating 

on the go, there are delicatessens and 

markets offering seasonal local food – 

pick up a delicious pie or pasty from the 

Exeter Farmers Market every Thursday, or 

experience the vibrant colours and flavours 

of the Guildhall Street Food Market every 

weekend and the regular Exeter Street Food 

Night Markets on the quayside. 

There are also popular annual markets and 

foodie events in the city, such as the annual 

Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink. 

Many of Exeter’s pubs have been serving 

visitors and locals for hundreds of years 

– you can taste real ales and fine wines in 

the historic pubs around the Cathedral 

Yard and High Street, reputed to have once 

been frequented by Sir Francis Drake and 

Charles Dickens. There are also smart wine 

bars in the city, nestled among independent 

boutiques. Topsham, just four miles from 

Exeter, also is a must for food lovers. 

From award-winning Portuguese bakers 

to fish restaurants and a barbeque 

smokehouse, there’s food for every 

occasion, and to celebrate we are offering 

you the chance to win a two-night stay to 

experience the delights yourself. 

COMPETITION 

WIN A FOODIE 

BREAK TO EXETER 

Indulge yourself at some of Exeter’s 

most renowned restaurants, 

with this fantastic foodie break... 

Experience Exeter’s 2,000 years 

of history, beautiful quayside, and 

top eateries serving the best of 

Devon’s food and drink. 

THE PRIZE INCLUDES 

• A two-night stay with breakfast 

at the Jury’s Inn Exeter 

• Lunch or dinner at the wonderful 

Harry’s Restaurant 

• Lunch or dinner at seafood 

restaurant Rockfish, Exeter 

HOW TO ENTER 

visitexeter.com/ 

foodiebreak 


EDINBURGH'S NEW... 

FOOD 

AND DRINK 

experiences 

Words | Karyn Noble 


Scotland’s capital has come to 

life after months of pandemic 

hibernation, and the delicious news 

for visitors is that there are some 

brand new dining and drinking 

establishments to welcome them. 

Karyn Noble is just back from 

Edinburgh with the inside scoop for 

your next getaway... 

EDINBURGH’S FOOD 

SCENE has been 

inspirational to watch 

over the past decade 

– a flurry of independent 

restaurants with boundarypushing 

chefs showcasing 

Scotland’s finest home-grown 

produce. It’s an easily walkable 

capital city, and diving down 

into quirky whisky dens or up 

to cosy rooftops to admire the 

dramatic spires of its Old Town 

makes for memorable barhopping 

too. The buzz around 

some of its new openings 

should not be underestimated. 

Book well in advance to secure 

these hot spots for your next 

long weekend away. 

Superico Bar and Lounge 

Open since 22 July 2021, the 

180-seater Superico Bar and 

Lounge has been wowing 

Edinburgh’s New Town with 

its bold Latin-Americaninfluenced 

flavours and 

Art Deco design (superico. 

com/#99). Settling into a 

bright yellow booth, it’s not 

difficult to see why it’s been 

shortlisted for an award in the 

Bar, Club & Lounge category 

at the Hospitality Design 

Awards (held in New York in 

September 2021). A massive 

light feature, not unlike a 

gleaming full moon, dangles 

over the entrance, and the 

room practically glows with a 

vibrant sleekness. 

à 


Pictured top left then clockwise: Superico Bar 

and Lounge; Casablanca Cocktail Club's 

Gold-leaf Wagyu burger and Sushi Maki Crab 

Indulge in house-pressed chips 

(70 fine layers of potato, no 

less!) with chipotle crema or 

dulce de leche doughnuts 

while sipping on a Smoked 

Peach Fizz (Chivas Regal 

Mizunara, Del Maguey 

Mezcal, Creme de Peche, Earl 

Grey tea, lemon and soda) or 

a freezer-fresh Padrón Martini 

from a drinks list that spans 

cocktails, spritzes and frappés 

(all designed by Edinburgh 

mixologist Mike Lynch), as well 

as a tidy collection of spirits 

and liqueurs, alongside nonalcoholic 

offerings. 

Casablanca Cocktail Club 

It might sound like a drinking 

destination, but Casablanca 

Cocktail Club 

(casablancacocktailclub.com) 

is actually the name of the new 

restaurant for Edinburgh’s 

oh-so-extravagant 

House of Gods Hotel 

(houseofgodshotel.com). 

Since it opened in September 

2019, the hotel quickly became 

known for its lavish Orient- 

Express style rooms and the 

‘Treat Me Like I’m Famous’ 

experience (press a button 

to summon your butler for 

cocktails, midnight milk-andcookies, 

Prosecco, a breakfast 

hamper with Mimosas). 

Casablanca Cocktail Club 

is, unsurprisingly, not at all 

restrained. “It’s as decadent 

and opulent as House of 

Gods is,” says Co-Owner and 

Director Mike Baxter, from 

a Gucci-wallpapered room 

with a gold mirror ball on the 

ceiling. “Everything we do is 

the extreme of fantasy. I love 

this hedonistic idea of you 

come for dinner but end up 

dancing on the tables.” 

Open since 16 September 

2021, the restaurant serves 

40 covers (think: thrones for 

chairs) with bar space for 40 

guests, as well as a private 

dining area for up to 16 people. 

From head chef Andrew Logie 

(formerly of Edinburgh’s Galvin 

Brasserie de Luxe) expect such 

indulgences as gold-leaf Wagyu 

burgers served on Versace plates, 

cheese-and-truffle pizzas, as well 

as scallops-stuffed chicken wings 

marinated in Dom Perignon. 

Rooftop 51 

It doesn’t get more meta than 

looking at a slide of a cocktail 

called ‘Edinburgh’ through 

a retro Viewfinder, ordering 

it, then sipping on it from a 

rooftop bar while looking at 

Edinburgh Castle (instagram. 

com/rooftop). This is Rooftop 

51, where you’ll find a whole new 

viewing perspective atop the 

Moxy Hotel in Fountainbridge 

(marriott.co.uk): new brewerythemed 

accommodation on the 

western side of the city. “Most 

visitors haven’t seen this side of 

Edinburgh before,” says Craig 

Aitchison, Assistant Captain at 


Pictured left to right: Rico’s Ristorante; Darnley’s 

Gin Experience; the new St James Quarter 

The Moxy, as he brings some 

‘Wee Plates’ from the tapas 

menu (spanning everything 

from Baked Mac n Cheese Bites 

to a Vanilla & Toffee Honey 

Pot). While the bar (open since 

May 2021) is named after 

the 51 different types of beer 

available (the hotel is on the 

former Fountainbridge Brewery 

site, after all), there’s also eight 

internationally themed cocktails 

and a short wine list. If the 

tartan blankets on the rooftop 

terrace aren’t enough protection 

against the chill, you can bring 

your drinks indoors to the inhouse 

cinema where there’s the 

occasional theme night (James 

Bond was a recent favourite) 

and popcorn in a variety of 

wacky flavours. 

Rico’s Ristorante 

An incredibly elegant addition 

to Edinburgh’s restaurant lineup, 

Rico’s is where modern 

Italy meets top Scottish 

produce in a sexy 56-cover 

space (ricosristorante. 

co.uk). Consider freshly made 

pappardelle with a ragù of 

organic rose veal (from Peelham 

farm in the Scottish Borders) 

and generous shaves of black 

truffle; or an exquisite risotto 

with East coast crab, shellfish 

bisque, chilli and coriander 

from 25-year-old chef Stefano 

Pieraccini. Open since 9 July 

2021 and named after Stefano’s 

grandfather (Enrico Pieraccini), 

Rico’s has been extremely 

popular with the Scots-Italian 

locals, but there’s also a 

dedicated space for 20 to sit for 

a drink (there are three different 

types of Negronis, just saying) 

without any obligation to dine, 

though you may find the genuine 

warmth from the staff will tempt 

you to linger over Mortadella 

Gnocco Fritto or 24 Month 

Proscuitto San Daniele from the 

Bar Menu. 

If the main venue in 

Edinburgh’s New Town is fully 

booked during your visit, you 

can also sample their pasta from 

a dedicated stand at Bonnie & 

Wild Marketplace in the new St 

James Quarter. 

Darnley’s Gin Experience 

If you’ve always dreamt of 

making your own gin at a tutored 

tasting session, then this is the 

place to do it. Darnley’s Gin have 

ventured out of their home in 

Fife and opened a pop-up store 

right in the centre of Edinburgh 

in June 2021 (darnleysgin.com/ 

pages/gin-experience). Over the 

course of 90 minutes, you’ll be 

guided through the history of 

their distillery while also tasting 

three of their delicious gins. 

You’ll then be presented with 

all manner of botanicals to sniff 

and select, as well as guidance 

notes and a flavour wheel, to 

create your own gin to take home 

(along with a Darnley’s blend). 

If you’re impressed by your own 

recipe, Darnley’s will even keep 

your bespoke blend on file and 


you can order bottles anytime. But if 

this all sounds like too much work, you 

can just order a G&T at the bar and 

sip it from the terrace outside. While it 

looks like a permanent store, the Gin 

Experience is in place until the end 

of March 2022 at this stage, though 

popularity may mean it becomes an 

Edinburgh fixture. Let’s hope! 

Cold Town Brewery Tours 

If you fancy castle views while learning 

more about craft beer, then Cold 

Town Brewery more than delivers 

(coldtownhouse.co.uk/cold-townbrewery-tours). 

Since July 2021, small 

guided tours have started at their 

popular microbrewery. Over the 

course of an hour, you can learn more 

about the tank-to-tap process from 

one of the brewers, taste four of the 

range then decide on your favourite 

(whether that be a Cold Town Lager, 

a juicy New England IPA, or seasonal 

brews, such as the Pornstar Martini 

Ale or the Chocolate Cake Stout). 

Then settle in with your pint and a 

stone-baked Neapolitan pizza either 

on the roof terrace, the Grassmarket 

outdoor area, the Pizza & Prosecco 

Floor or within the Brewhouse; either 

way, it’s highly likely your views 

will be pleasingly turret-topped 

and medieval. And if you can’t see 

Edinburgh castle and want to remind 

yourself that you’re in Scotland, order 

the Holyrood pizza, which has a 

peppercorn sauce base, crispy bacon, 

fior de latte, Mull Cheddar…and yes, 

Chieftain haggis. 

ST JAMES QUARTER 

Don’t miss this extraordinary £1 

billion development in the centre 

of Edinburgh, one of the largest 

regeneration projects in the UK. 

Sixteen years in the making, and 

after five years of construction, the 

first phase of the St James Quarter 

opened to the public on 24 June 

2021 (stjamesquarter.com). Much 

more than a multi-level shopping 

galleria (it even has its own tartan, 

not to mention a W Hotel opening 

in 2022), it offers a broad range of 

dining experiences. 

“Level 1 is family favourites,” 

says Rochelle Weir, Brand and 

Marketing Director for St James 

Quarter. “We have (an area 

known as) Leith St Eats; in there 

we have Five Guys, Tortilla, and 

Maki & Ramen, which is a local 

business. Level 2 is high street 

and fashion brands. Level 3 you 

have aspirational brands and high 

end names… Level 4 is more of 

a night-time economy: you can 

shop until 8 o’clock, come here 

and eat and drink. We’ve got The 

Alchemist coming on in autumn, 

which is a cocktail bar with 

different food offerings. And also 

Bonnie & Wild. We should have 

around 30 restaurants and bars.” 

It would be easy enough to 

meet all your gourmet needs 

in Bonnie & Wild Marketplace 

alone (bonnieandwildmarket. 

com). It’s no mere food court, 

though it’s certainly possible to 

perch at a table (there’s space 

for 700 diners) and order coffee, 

cakes, pasta and pizza. This 

marketplace features some 

unique independent Scottish 

traders in their first-ever stalls 

(CHIX) alongside bigger names 

(Masterchef winner Gary 

Maclean’s first solo venture). 

There’s MacDuff’s butchers for 

all your take-away meat needs, 

a bottle shop, a private events 

space, a demo kitchen, a living 

moss wall, photos from the 

Scottish Landscape Photographer 

of the Year Awards…don’t be 

surprised to see a queue to get in. 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 10 

ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN! 

AN ETTINGER CAPRA PASSPORT COVER & 

LUGGAGE TAG WORTH £165 (AVAILABLE FROM 

ETTINGER.CO.UK) WILL BE SENT TO THE THE 

FIRST CORRECT ENTRANT RECEIVED THIS ISSUE! 

HOW TO ENTER 

SIMPLY SEND YOUR COMPLETED CROSSWORD (OR THE 

ANSWERS) AND YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS, BY POST TO 

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL, UNIT 6, BASEPOINT, ANDERSONS 

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BOOKSHELF 

We're reading... 

ACROSS 

1 Home to the Arms Park stadium (7) 

5 --- Manor Garden, known for 

lavender (7) 

9 Noel Coward's --- Spirit (6) 

10 Wild and wet activity (8) 

11 Company interested in cars and 

stars (8) 

12 Cathedral and University city (6) 

13 Jane Austen's last complete novel 

(10) 

16 "G.I. Jane" star --- Moore (4) 

17 Exercise for the flexible (4) 

19 Airport vehicle (7,3) 

21 In the second-best category (5,1) 

23 Thynne home and safari park (8) 

25 Dominant part of the brain (8) 

26 City of dreaming spires (6) 

27 London theatre (7) 

28 Kind of manner (7) 

DOWN 

2 Throughout history (3-4) 

3 Type of treat (5) 

4 Lives off others (9) 

6 Like some college walls (5) 

7 "The other place", to denizens of 

26 Across (9) 

8 Record deck part (4,3) 

10 Many a Saudi (5,6) 

14 Cornish beer and clay town 

(2,7) 

15 Bottom line, after tax and outgoings 

(3,6) 

18 Peanut or castor bean, for 

example (7) 

20 Not broadcast (7) 

22 Devon hotel island (5) 

24 Elevates (5) 

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2022 Issue out 4 September 

Worlds in Shadow: Patrick tells the stories of sunken land off the coast of 

the Isle of Man where ‘sailors assert that they frequently hear cattle lowing, 

dogs barking, beneath the waves’, Bloomsbury, £16.99 | The Book Lover’s 

Bucket List: A Tour of Great British Literature by Caroline Taggart, British 

Library, £16.99 | The Way of the Tortoise: Matt Little, part of the team 

that saw Andy Murray win Olympic gold, shares his philosophy on exactly 

why taking it slow and steady is the best way to approach things, O’Mara 

Books, £14.99 | Hand Luggage Only: Travel guide to Great Britain from 

the guys behind award-winning blog of the same name, Hardie Grant, £20 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 09 | SUMMER 2021 

ACROSS: 9 Ocean view 10 Soham 11 Balsa 12 MacGregor 13 Hackfall 

14 Annoys 15 Upton-upon-Severn 19 Europe 20 Dwindled 23 In a flurry 

25 Sikhs 27 Lento 28 Prurience DOWN: 1 AONB 2 Belloc 3 In half 4 Film clip 

5 IWSC 6 Estrange 7 The Globe 8 Imprisoned 13 Hauteville 16 Terrains 

17 Napoleon 18 No Way Out 21 Nessie 22 Liking 24 RSPB 26 Seep 


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cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

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