British Travel Journal | Autumn/Winter 2021

With complexities around overseas travel still hanging in the air and globetrotters continuing to place their plans to visit more exotic far-flung destinations on hold for something closer to home, much of the British Isles has experienced its busiest summer on record - some hotels, restaurants and landmarks, (especially those in popular tourist spots) have struggled to cope, and favoured honeypots like Cornwall have even had to resort to urging tourists to ‘stay away’. But what about our cities and other beauty spots, the ones that can still cope with visitors? London, for example – why not avoid the crowds and queues on a city break to our capital or one of our other vibrant cities? Catch a performance at Stratford-upon-Avon, head to the breathtaking mountains of Scotland, or visit its capital city, Edinburgh for a taste of its flourishing new food scene. Food and drink is a theme throughout this issue, from our interview with Tom Kerridge, to the prestigious new accolade for planet-conscious cooking, the rise of English Whisky, and new premium wine region, the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills. I have personally traded Devon’s beaches for culture and picturesque waterways, staying in the heart of its historic city, Exeter, and I enjoyed a countryside weekender at Goodwood, ‘England’s greatest sporting estate’. Together with our regular Travel News and cosy Autumn Stays, I hope this issue helps you plan with confidence, discovering less busy but equally charming places to visit.

With complexities around overseas travel still hanging in the air and globetrotters continuing to place their plans to visit more exotic far-flung destinations on hold for something closer to home, much of the British Isles has experienced its busiest summer on record - some hotels, restaurants and landmarks, (especially those in popular tourist spots) have struggled to cope, and favoured honeypots like Cornwall have even had to resort to urging tourists to ‘stay away’.
But what about our cities and other beauty spots, the ones that can still cope with visitors?
London, for example – why not avoid the crowds and queues on a city break to our capital or one of our other vibrant cities? Catch a performance at Stratford-upon-Avon, head to the breathtaking mountains of Scotland, or visit its capital city, Edinburgh for a taste of its flourishing new food scene. Food and drink is a theme throughout this issue, from our interview with Tom Kerridge, to the prestigious new accolade for planet-conscious cooking, the rise of English Whisky, and new premium wine region, the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills. I have personally traded Devon’s beaches for culture and picturesque waterways, staying in the heart of its historic city, Exeter, and I enjoyed a countryside weekender at Goodwood, ‘England’s greatest sporting estate’.
Together with our regular Travel News and cosy Autumn Stays, I hope this issue helps you plan with confidence, discovering less busy but equally charming places to visit.

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explore the british isles<br />

AUTUMN/WINTER <strong>2021</strong> | ISSUE 10<br />















£6.75<br />






Discover your own island adventure<br />

Embrace our islands beauty and breathtaking landscape. Let the crisp sea air refresh<br />

you as you explore our stunning coastline and appreciate the simple wonders of nature.<br />

Come, see and discover the unique island that's closer than you think!<br />

Go to visitalderney.com or call 01481 822333<br />

For latest COVID-19 travel guidance go to GOV.GG




<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />


EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way<br />

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford<br />

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding<br />


Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah,<br />

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble,<br />

Emma O’Reilly, Lydia Paleschi,<br />

Adrienne Wyper<br />


—<br />

Loch an Eilein at Rothiemurchus<br />

Scotland's Cairngorms National Park<br />

©VisitScotland/Kenny Lam<br />

Published by<br />


Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road,<br />

Southampton, SO14 5FE<br />

01489 660680<br />

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owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the<br />

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without<br />

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken<br />

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd<br />

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by<br />

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher.<br />

@<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong><br />

Welcome<br />


—<br />

WITH COMPLEXITIES around overseas<br />

travel still hanging in the air and<br />

globetrotters continuing to place their<br />

plans to visit more exotic far-flung<br />

destinations on hold for something closer to home, much of<br />

the <strong>British</strong> Isles has experienced its busiest summer on record.<br />

For a relatively small island full of adventure-seekers exploring our<br />

countryside and coastline, some hotels, restaurants and landmarks,<br />

(especially those in popular tourist spots) have struggled to cope.<br />

Managing numbers in a staycation boom can be hard enough; add<br />

the difficulties of staying COVID-safe while abiding by restrictions,<br />

and favoured honeypots like Cornwall have even had to resort to<br />

urging tourists to ‘stay away’.<br />

If you have been lucky enough to travel to some of these<br />

destinations this year, you will know that booking in advance now<br />

comes as standard. If you want to stay overnight, be seated in a<br />

restaurant, or visit an attraction it's mandatory – even breakfast slots<br />

and swim times must be pre-planned. But what about our cities and<br />

other beauty spots, the ones that can still cope with visitors?<br />

London, for example – why not avoid the crowds and queues on a<br />

city break to our capital or one of our other vibrant cities, p78?<br />

Catch a performance at Stratford-upon-Avon, p40, head to the<br />

breathtaking mountains of Scotland, p20, or visit its capital city,<br />

Edinburgh for a taste of its flourishing new food scene, p92.<br />

Food and drink is a theme throughout this issue, from our<br />

interview with Tom Kerridge, p26, to the prestigious new accolade<br />

for planet-conscious cooking, p32, the rise of English Whisky, p70,<br />

and new premium wine region, the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills, p16.<br />

I have personally traded Devon’s beaches for culture and<br />

picturesque waterways, staying in the heart of its historic city,<br />

Exeter, p86, and I enjoyed a countryside weekender at Goodwood,<br />

‘England’s greatest sporting estate’, p64.<br />

Together with our regular <strong>Travel</strong> News, p9, and cosy <strong>Autumn</strong><br />

Stays, p47, I hope this issue helps you plan with confidence,<br />

discovering less busy but equally charming places to visit.<br />

Jessica x<br />



–<br />

@<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong><br />

@B<strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong><br />


<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 3


Experience<br />

More.<br />


Pride of Britain is a collection of 50 of the finest independent <strong>British</strong> hotels.<br />

Discover them all online today: www.prideofbritainhotels.com


AUTUMN/WINTER <strong>2021</strong> | ISSUE 10<br />

—<br />

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09<br />


Reignite your passion for travel this<br />

autumn with our selection of what's new from<br />

hotels, restaurants, and visitor attractions<br />

across the <strong>British</strong> Isles<br />


47 STAYS<br />

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and<br />

these places are certainly that – but they also<br />

have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe<br />


63 <strong>Travel</strong> souvenirs and gifts lovingly<br />

made for the discerning traveller<br />


98 Bookshelf and crossword<br />


16<br />


Meet the five passionate producers<br />

who have come together to form a new<br />

premium wine region: the Vineyards of the<br />

Surrey Hills<br />


20Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of<br />

peaks and pines, miles of pure white snow –<br />

and you don’t have to leave the UK<br />

26<br />



Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin<br />

stars, Tom Kerridge reflects on his stratospheric<br />

success and his <strong>2021</strong> new launch<br />

70<br />


Discover the English distillers<br />

showing they can compete with<br />

Scotland's most famous export<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 5

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Indulge yourself at some<br />

of Exeter’s most renowned<br />

restaurants, with this fantastic<br />

two-night foodie break staying<br />

at the Jury's Inn. Experience<br />

Exeter’s 2,000 years of<br />

history, its beautiful quayside,<br />

and top eateries serving the<br />

best of Devon’s food and<br />

drink.<br />

6 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com<br />



Visit Stratford-upon-Avon to catch a<br />

performance of one of Shakespeare’s plays<br />

or take a boat on the river<br />


56 In search of an idyllic private island<br />

with magical charm, blessed with exotic plants,<br />

translucent seas and endless amounts of golden<br />

sand? Spend your days exploring ruined castles,<br />

discovering shipwreck tales<br />

48 HOURS AT THE<br />


With acres of nature walks, sustainable farming,<br />

new wellness experiences, spa, and divine<br />

mouth-watering home-grown food, a stay at<br />

the Goodwood Hotel has more delights besides<br />

its renowned vintage cars, planes and worldfamous<br />

annual festivals<br />

64<br />

78<br />


78 THIS AUTUMN<br />

This is the ideal time to visit one of Britain's great<br />

cities. The summer crowds have dispersed and<br />

there’s always a cute café, a diverting shop or a<br />

fascinating museum beckoning you in, should<br />

the weather turn<br />


86 Thought holidays to Devon were mostly<br />

about seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s<br />

time to leave behind the beach towels and flip<br />

flops and prepare for a cultural city-break like no<br />

other. Exeter might be small, but it is perfectly<br />

formed, with world-class museums, excellent<br />

food, beautiful new hotels, historic streets,<br />

and picturesque waterways<br />



Scotland’s capital has come to life after months of<br />

pandemic hibernation, and the delicious news for<br />

visitors is that there are some brand new dining<br />

and drinking establishments to welcome them<br />

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Reignite your passion for travel this autumn with our selection of what's<br />

new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the <strong>British</strong> Isles<br />


The Newt, Beezantium<br />

You can now see the world from a bee's-eye view at<br />

the brand new Beezantium at The Newt – a first-ofits-kind<br />

experience for the UK. Watch the colonies at<br />

work, smell the aroma of the hive, hear their contented<br />

hum and see honey produced in real time. Beezantium<br />

has been designed to highlight the importance of bees<br />

and their contribution to the planet. Within its giant<br />

honeycomb walls are interesting facts and literature<br />

about bees from all over the world, along with flower<br />

pressings showing the types of honey produced<br />

from specific plants on the estate. Why not take the<br />

opportunity for a Bee Safari – a private walking tour of<br />

the woodland hives, providing more insight into The<br />

Newt’s own beekeeping practices. ◆<br />

thenewtinsomerset.com<br />


Highland Kings Ultra, Scotland’s west coast<br />

The world’s most luxurious and exclusive ultrarun is about to launch in Scotland – an opportunity<br />

to join the first group of 40 athletes from around the world to tackle 120 miles of Scotland’s<br />

spectacular West Coast wilderness. Included in the programme, which costs £15,499 to enter, is lavish<br />

accommodation, speedboat transfers and seven months of personal mentoring. After a gruelling<br />

running challenge, which includes an ascent of 10,000 feet from Glencoe to the Isle of Arran across<br />

four days, you're treated to the finest in extravagant aftercare, including treatments from on-site masseurs,<br />

as well as a chance to enjoy relaxation space in an athletes’ lounge and award-winning cuisine. Named<br />

after Scottish kings Kenneth McAlpin, Alexander III and Robert the Bruce who helped to shape the<br />

region, the event will culminate with a gala dinner hosted by legendary explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes. ◆<br />

highland-kings.com<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 9

LONDON<br />

The White Garden,<br />

Kensington<br />

Not only did the Queen’s Buckingham<br />

Palace Gardens open to visitors for<br />

the first time in history this summer,<br />

Kensington Palace gardeners transformed<br />

The Sunken Garden into The White<br />

Garden in memory of Diana, Princess of<br />

Wales. During her time at Kensington<br />

Palace Diana was particularly fond of The<br />

Sunken Garden. The unveiling of the new<br />

Princess Diana Statue by Prince William<br />

and Prince Harry took place on 1 July,<br />

the day which would have been Princess<br />

Diana’s 60th birthday. The statue can be<br />

viewed from the Cradle Walk. ◆<br />

hrp.org.uk<br />

LONDON<br />

The Footman Mayfair<br />

One of the oldest pubs in London, The Footman Mayfair has been totally<br />

redesigned following a six-figure investment. The elegant and stylish<br />

refurbishment has modernised the popular pub and restaurant, while<br />

keeping its original charm. The Footman has been in place since 1749 –<br />

originally called The Running Horse, it was frequented by the footmen<br />

who were in service to the households of Mayfair. They would run<br />

ahead of their master’s coaches, paying any tolls in advance and<br />

clearing a safe passage ahead. As the fashion for footmen dwindled,<br />

one bought the pub and named it after himself. Often the source of<br />

the best gossip, the pub soon became well known. ◆<br />

thefootmanmayfair.com<br />

Don't miss<br />

Art Pass Unbooked, launched by Art Fund<br />

This new smart tool brings together hundreds of smaller museums and galleries<br />

in one place, allowing culture lovers to find what is nearby, and book there and<br />

then, avoiding the queues at the bigger institutions. unbooked.artfund.org<br />

10 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

We love<br />

AIRE Ancient Baths, Covent Garden<br />

Feeling the need to disconnect? Then head to London's most exciting<br />

new thermal baths spa, complete with an ice pool, cold pool, warm<br />

pool, hot pool, salt-water flotarium, and various treatments – stay<br />

overnight in Covent Garden's new luxury lifestyle hotel, Middle Eight.<br />

beaire.com / middleeight.com<br />


The Fellows House<br />

Just a stone’s throw from the River Cam in the<br />

heart of the historic city of Cambridge, The<br />

Fellows House is the perfect base to explore<br />

Cambridge’s famous colleges, the Bridge of<br />

Sighs, the University of Cambridge museums<br />

and Botanic Gardens. The brand new 131-<br />

room apartment-style hotel features unique<br />

pieces of artwork and sculptures, all designed<br />

locally in Cambridge. The room types are<br />

all named after people associated with the<br />

city and notable Cambridge fellows, such as<br />

Kipling, Newton, Gormley and Attenborough,<br />

and don't miss the signature restaurant, The<br />

Folio (pictured) serving plant-based dishes<br />

and <strong>British</strong> comfort classics. ◆<br />

thefellowshouse.com<br />


Lapwing and Curlew<br />

A little-known piece of the Scottish landscape has opened up as a<br />

holiday destination for the first time, with the arrival of two exquisite<br />

shepherd's huts on the Atholl Estates in Highland Perthshire. Sitting<br />

on a stunning spot in the Tulliemet Valley, the shepherd's huts<br />

(named Lapwing and Curlew) command breathtaking views across<br />

Strathtay and are surrounded by an abundance of wildlife, from<br />

osprey, nesting eagles and deer to newly arrived resident beavers in<br />

the Tulliemet River. Prices from £360. ◆<br />

atholl-estates.co.uk<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 11

12 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


Ugly Butterfly flies to Carbis Bay<br />

Ugly Butterfly, which is chef Adam Handling’s most sustainable brand<br />

of restaurants, has launched at the luxurious Carbis Bay Estate. The<br />

opening followed the hotel playing host to the <strong>2021</strong> G7 Summit,<br />

where Adam and his team created sustainability-focused dishes for the<br />

leaders, and the whole summit, to enjoy. uglybutterfly.co.uk<br />


New Beauty Spots<br />

The Yorkshire Wolds and the Cheshire<br />

Sandstone Ridge (pictured right) are being<br />

considered by Natural England as the newest<br />

members of our country's designated Areas of<br />

Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).<br />

There are 34 Areas AONBs currently in<br />

England and each one is protected by law<br />

so that its natural beauty is conserved and<br />

enhanced. This new status for Yorkshire Wolds<br />

and Cheshire Sandstone Ridge could further<br />

safeguard the region's tranquil landscapes,<br />

boost nature, and help more people enjoy the<br />

rolling hills, ancient woodland, archaeology,<br />

wildlife, and culture. ◆<br />

gov.uk/natural-england<br />

You might also enjoy<br />


Heritage Open Days<br />

England's largest festival of history and culture returns this September, 10–19.<br />

Each year, thousands of volunteers organise events to give people the chance to<br />

see hidden places and try new experiences for free – online and offline. Heritage<br />

Open Days is about providing people with the opportunity to see places and<br />

spaces they don't usually get access to. The theme for this year is Edible England<br />

– so expect behind-the-scenes tours and entertaining tastings. With more and<br />

more of us learning to love our local areas during lockdown, these outdoor,<br />

usually off-grid hidden gems could be just what we all need. ◆<br />

heritageopendays.org.uk<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 13

Don't miss<br />


LONDON<br />

Chelsea History Festival 17 – 26 September <strong>2021</strong><br />

The Chelsea History Festival is returning for an action-packed third year this<br />

September, building on the success of previous years that saw almost 30,000<br />

people involved – both physically and virtually. Taking place in the heart of<br />

London in partnership with three notable institutions – the National Army<br />

Museum, Royal Hospital Chelsea and the Chelsea Physic Garden – this<br />

year’s diverse festival will host over 70 exciting physical and virtual events.<br />

There are more than 15 headline speakers, including Damien Lewis, Olivette<br />

Otele and Jonathan Dimbleby, and the festival features a number of<br />

exclusive pre-publication launches. This year’s dynamic programme of events<br />

covers a range of themes, delving into the worlds of military and art history,<br />

and platforming new perspectives on social and natural history. Brand new<br />

for this year’s festival, the History Village in the heart of London will take<br />

visitors back through time to learn first-hand what life was like in Roman<br />

London during World War I. This immersive outdoor event brings history to<br />

the forefront with living historians, serving military units and local cultural<br />

organisations. Visitors also have the opportunity to become knights in shining<br />

armour for the day, clashing blades at the Sword School, alongside a range of<br />

other family-friendly activities. ◆<br />

chelseahistoryfestival.com<br />

14 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

The Hop Kiln, Herefordshire<br />

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A portfolio of over<br />

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01386 897 959



Move over Champagne – there’s a new premium wine region in<br />

town. We encounter acres of picturesque vines, beautiful views and<br />

award-winning wines when we meet the five passionate producers<br />

who have come together to form Vineyards of the Surrey Hills<br />

Words | Sophie Farrah<br />

16 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

WHEN YOU THINK of famous wine<br />

regions, perhaps the South of France<br />

springs to mind, or California’s Napa<br />

Valley, but how about the Surrey Hills?<br />

Just 20 miles south of London, sandwiched between<br />

Kent, Sussex and Hampshire, lies a cluster of five<br />

beautiful vineyards, each producing internationally<br />

award-winning wines in an Area of Outstanding Natural<br />

Beauty (AONB). Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it?<br />

Together, they’ve joined forces to create Vineyards of<br />

the Surrey Hills (VoSH) – a new, world-class wine tourism<br />

destination that celebrates the excellence of the wine<br />

being produced there. Cultivated on limestone hills that<br />

share the same geological stratum as the Champagne<br />

region, each vineyard is located along the rolling North<br />

Downs Way; its south-facing slopes, chalky soil and<br />

microclimate providing optimum conditions for wine<br />

production.<br />

As a newly formed wine region, these family-run<br />

vineyards are now working closely together to create<br />

and deliver memorable visitor experiences, while also<br />

sharing knowledge, resources, and above all, a passion<br />

for creating the best possible wine. There are tours and<br />

tastings aplenty, and vineyard hopping is positively<br />

encouraged, but despite their proximity, each one has<br />

something very different to offer, as we discovered…<br />

Our first stop was Albury; this small, beautiful vineyard<br />

is located just outside Guildford and is where Nick<br />

Wenman fulfilled his lifelong dream of planting vines<br />

in 2009, after retiring from the IT industry. Today, he<br />

runs the business with his daughter Lucy and vineyard<br />

managers Dominic and Alex.<br />

“Everyone has historically thought of Sussex and Kent<br />

as key wine-growing regions, but we want to put the<br />

Surrey Hills on the map,” enthuses Lucy, as she showed<br />

us around their 12-acre plot.<br />

Albury is the only organic vineyard in the Surrey Hills,<br />

and one of very few in the UK. It produces a range of<br />

delicious, award-winning sparkling wines made from<br />

traditional Champagne variety grapes, but it’s their<br />

Silent Pool Rosé that has made the biggest splash, after<br />

it was chosen to be served on the royal barge for the<br />

Queen’s Jubilee in 2012. Now it sells out every year. Here,<br />

visitors can enjoy a variety of tours and tastings, or just<br />

pop in for a glass (or bottle), enjoyed while overlooking<br />

the vines. There are also regular events featuring live<br />

music and local food.<br />

Our next stop, less than a 10-minute drive away,<br />

was High Clandon – the smallest vineyard of the Surrey<br />

Hills. Here, South African owner Sibylla Tindale and her<br />

husband Bruce tend to each vine by hand in their small,<br />

but perfectly formed, one-acre vineyard.<br />

“VoSH celebrates the beauty of the Surrey Hills<br />

AONB, and the fact that the chalky terroir of these à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 17

glorious rolling downs can produce such exquisite<br />

wines,” enthused Sibylla, as she showed us round her<br />

stunning gardens, with their equally stunning views.<br />

“As there are only five vineyards in this special area,<br />

it made abundant sense to create a delicious wine<br />

region to attract both tourists and wine aficionados.<br />

Also, having more than one lovely vineyard to visit is a<br />

wonderful attraction!”<br />

The offering at High Clandon is aged-matured<br />

vintage fizz only; each release has won a staggering<br />

array of awards and sells out every year. Visits to the<br />

vineyard are by appointment only, while monthly<br />

tours and tastings can be pre-booked.<br />

Our next destination was Denbies, which was until<br />

recently the largest single-estate vineyard in the UK<br />

with a whopping 265 acres ‘under vine’. Established<br />

in 1986, it encompasses a large winery, hotel,<br />

restaurant, shops and various visitor experiences, as<br />

well as seven miles<br />

of public footpaths,<br />

open to all. It<br />

produces a wide<br />

range of awardwinning<br />

still and<br />

sparkling wines, some of which we were lucky enough<br />

to try in one of the vineyard’s new, heated, luxury<br />

cabanas, overlooking acres of beautiful vines.<br />

“Regional clusters of vineyards are forming all<br />

over the UK, so the collaboration of our awardwinning<br />

vineyards, located in an AONB, presented<br />

a significant opportunity,” explains Denbies’ COO,<br />

Jeannette Simpson.<br />

“We are all completely different in size, production<br />

and visitor offering, and so together we can provide<br />

a large selection of tours and experiences that really<br />

complement each other.”<br />

Speaking of which – after our wine tasting, we<br />

hopped aboard the vineyard’s brilliant outdoor train<br />

tour, which trundled through the vines to the top<br />

of the estate, where we could enjoy the stunning<br />

views of Box Hill with a glass of Denbies’ delicious<br />

sparkling in hand.<br />

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year is<br />

Greyfriars, our next destination, which Mike and<br />

Hilary Wagstaff took over in 2010 with the aim of<br />

expanding the original vineyard planted there in<br />

1989; they now have a total of 40 acres under vine,<br />

on two neighbouring sites. Here, each element of the<br />

wine-production process takes place on-site; what<br />

Mike describes as ‘grape to glass’. Where smaller<br />

vineyards take their grapes to external wineries for<br />

production, Greyfriars has built its very own, as well<br />

as a large storage cave in the chalk slopes. Their<br />

wines have won several international awards, and<br />

the vineyard hosts regular tours, tastings and foodie<br />

events. This year, it also unveiled an impressive new<br />

tasting room.<br />

“Located just a stone’s throw from London, we grow<br />

amazing and varied wine, with beautiful vineyards<br />

and brilliant people. We want to encourage visitors to<br />

come and experience everything that we have to offer<br />

– not just the wine,”<br />

“<br />

Having more than one lovely vineyard<br />

to visit is a wonderful attraction!<br />

”<br />

enthuses Mike.<br />

Our fifth and final<br />

stop was Chilworth<br />

Manor, an astoundingly<br />

beautiful historic house<br />

and estate owned by Graham and Mia Wrigley. The<br />

couple planted vines in 2013, making it the newest of<br />

the Surrey Hills vineyards. Their 10-acre plot produces<br />

fruit for an incredibly popular English rosé and, for the<br />

first time this year, a hotly anticipated sparkling wine.<br />

Currently, Chilworth Manor is the only Surrey Hills<br />

vineyard not regularly open to the public, but it hosts<br />

several annual charity events that are open to all, and a<br />

new, permanent tasting barn is planned for next year.<br />

“I think that the Vineyards of the Surrey Hills will<br />

become known as an umbrella that represents quality<br />

– we’re all so passionate about what we do, and we’re<br />

all family businesses too,” Graham explains.<br />

“Already it’s fast becoming a destination to visit<br />

two or three vineyards in a day. I really believe that we<br />

could be the Napa Valley of the UK. When we started<br />

out, we didn’t realise there would be this wine tourism<br />

element but there is such a demand for it, which is<br />

great, and most of all – it’s fun.” We’ll drink to that.<br />

18 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


The Merry Harriers<br />

This charming traditional village<br />

inn, complete with friendly resident<br />

llamas, offers good food and four<br />

comfortable and serene bedrooms<br />

with countryside views. In its<br />

pretty gardens there are a further<br />

six bedrooms, and five luxurious<br />

shepherd's huts. Their ‘Taste of<br />

Surrey’ package includes a tour at<br />

Albury Vineyard as well as a bottle of<br />

their highly coveted Silent Pool Rosé.<br />

merryharriers.com<br />

Beaverbrook<br />

Nestled in the heart of the Surrey<br />

Hills, Beaverbrook is a quintessential<br />

<strong>British</strong> country estate. There are 29<br />

sumptuous, beautifully designed<br />

rooms to choose from, divided<br />

between the House and the Garden<br />

House, including three suites.<br />

There’s also an impressive architectdesigned<br />

spa, cinema, several stylish<br />

eateries and 470 acres of beautiful<br />

countryside to explore.<br />

beaverbrook.co.uk<br />

Denbies Vineyard Hotel<br />

If you’re looking to fully immerse<br />

yourself in Surrey’s beautiful vines<br />

then this is the place for you.<br />

Located on the wine estate itself,<br />

Denbies is home to one of the UK's<br />

very few vineyard hotels. There are<br />

17 recently refurbished bedrooms<br />

here, with both spacious luxury<br />

suites and doubles with king-sized<br />

beds as standard, overlooking the<br />

vineyards and rolling hills beyond.<br />

denbies.co.uk<br />


Chilworth Manor Brut Rosé 2018,<br />

£36.50<br />

Released this year, the vineyard’s first<br />

fizz has been a huge success; it’s a<br />

delicate salmon pink in colour and<br />

bursting with creamy summer fruits,<br />

butterscotch and brioche. There are<br />

plans to release a sparkling white<br />

wine later this year too.<br />

chilworthmanorvineyard.com<br />

High Clandon Euphoria Cuvée<br />

2016 Prestige Vintage Brut, £39<br />

The word ‘euphoria’ is used to<br />

describe intense feelings of<br />

happiness, and that’s exactly how<br />

you’ll feel after a glass or two of<br />

this delicious, award-winning fizz.<br />

Resulting from a late harvest with<br />

five years' lees ageing, it tastes of<br />

crisp citrus and buttery brioche,<br />

with rich peach and alluring florals.<br />

highclandon.co.uk<br />

Albury Estate Classic Cuvée, £32.95<br />

This award-winning, certified organic<br />

English sparkling wine is a classic<br />

cuvée of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and<br />

Pinot Meunier. Fresh and lively, the<br />

ripe acidity is complemented by a<br />

subtle sweetness.<br />

alburyvineyard.com<br />

Denbies Surrey Gold, £9.75<br />

This is Denbies’ most popular wine,<br />

and the first they ever produced. A<br />

blend of Müller-Thurgau, Ortega and<br />

Bacchus, it’s quite Germanic in style –<br />

off dry, but fresh, fruity and aromatic.<br />

denbies.co.uk<br />

Greyfriars NV Sparkling Rosé,<br />

£19.50<br />

This award-winning, delicious pink<br />

fizz is a delicate pale colour, with<br />

aromas of summer berries and a fresh<br />

fruity palate. A perfect aperitif, it is<br />

incredibly good value too.<br />

greyfriarsvineyard.co.uk<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 19

20 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


SKIING<br />


Clean crisp air, breathtaking views of peaks and pines, miles<br />

of pure white snow – and you don’t have to leave the UK…<br />

Words | Adrienne Wyper<br />

IN RECENT YEARS, there have been around 250,000 ‘skier days’ a season in<br />

Scotland, so it’s a – deservedly – popular winter pastime. But if you’re not into skiing,<br />

or the snow is a no-show, high in the mountains is still a great place to be, with lots to<br />

do. Even in skiing-mad Switzerland, a third of winter visitors aren’t there to ski...<br />

The Scottish skiing season runs from December through to early April, although the<br />

snow conditions are usually best from January onward. Scotland has five ski resorts:<br />

Glenshee, the largest; Glencoe, the oldest, with the longest and steepest runs; Lecht, the<br />

quietest; Cairngorm Mountain Resort, the most popular; and Nevis Range Mountain<br />

Resort, near Britain’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis. All offer ski and snowboard tuition,<br />

in groups or solo, and you can hire all the kit you’ll need.<br />

The wintry scenery is stunning, with lochs and forests at lower altitudes often<br />

unblanketed by snow, and for non-skiers (or when the weather isn’t being<br />

cooperative), there are lots of other no-snow activities within easy reach of wherever<br />

you’re based. The total length of all available ski runs, at over 83 miles, is lower<br />

than you’d find at many individual resorts in the Alps or North America, so there’s<br />

less variety, but for a short stay the Scottish slopes give foreign resorts a run for their<br />

money. Snow conditions can be unpredictable, so stay flexible, keep your eye on the<br />

snow situation and weather forecast (visitscotland.com), and perhaps be<br />

prepared to go at short notice.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 21

Pictured previous page: Skiing on the Glencoe Mountain range<br />

Pictured clockwise from left: Rothiemurchus Forest by Loch an<br />

Eilean in the Cairngorms National Park; on the way up at Glencoe<br />

Mountain Resort; The Cairngorm reindeer herd is Britain's only<br />

free-ranging herd of reindeer found in the Cairngorm mountains;<br />

A skier makes a jump from the lemming ridge into Coire Dubh, off<br />

piste at the Nevis Range Ski Centre<br />

Glenshee Ski Centre<br />

The Glenshee Ski Centre resort is set in set in spectacular<br />

mountain scenery in Perthshire at the eastern end of the<br />

highest Cairngorm peaks.<br />

The name Glenshee means ‘fairy glen’ and the area is<br />

sometimes called ‘The Three Glens’ as a nod to the massive<br />

ski area in France known as ‘Les Trois Vallées’. Access is via the<br />

A93, the UK’s highest public road.<br />

Informal skiing started here in the 1930s, and today the<br />

UK’s biggest lift system extends across three valleys and four<br />

mountains – with a summit elevation of 3,504 feet. For<br />

beginners, access is easy, with extensive nursery slopes by the<br />

main car park. Intermediates have 36 runs to choose from,<br />

from the expansive pistes of the Thunderbowl and sheltered<br />

routes of Coire Fionn and Glas Maol to the bumps, jumps<br />

and natural half-pipe of Meall Odhar and the slalom course<br />

at Cairnwell. Experienced skiers should try the mogul-strewn<br />

Tiger black run.<br />

For ski-free family fun, swoosh downhill on a sledge,<br />

or consider ‘bagging a Munro’. There are 24 ‘Munros’ –<br />

mountains over 3,000 feet – here, named after Sir Hugh<br />

Munro, who compiled the first list of such peaks, totalling<br />

282, in 1891. ‘Munro bagging’ means walking up one of<br />

them. Several whisky distilleries are within easy reach, or<br />

sample craft gins at Persie Distillery.<br />

Make your base in Braemar in the heart of the Cairngorms<br />

National Park, near Balmoral Castle, with two castles of its<br />

own, and the driving trail to see another 15. The town is home<br />

to the renowned annual Braemar Gathering, with pipe bands,<br />

Highland dancing and tossing of the caber. Accommodation<br />

ranges from cheery log cabins to a grand Victorian shooting<br />

lodge. Or for splendid self-catering seclusion, stay in<br />

Glenbeag Moutain Lodges: Scandi-style log cabins with<br />

outdoor hot tubs and saunas.<br />

22 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Glencoe Mountain Resort<br />

Perhaps best known, at least to Scots, as the site of<br />

the 1692 massacre of MacDonald clan members by<br />

government forces they’d taken into their homes, the<br />

spectacular, brooding scenery of the Glencoe Valley,<br />

sculpted by an ancient volcano, has been seen on<br />

screen many times, in films including Braveheart, Harry<br />

Potter and Skyfall.<br />

It is Scotland’s oldest ski resort, with commercial<br />

skiing starting here in 1956, and also home to the<br />

country’s longest black run, Flypaper, at 2.6 miles,<br />

which is also the steepest. Its highest point is 3,635<br />

feet, giving impressive views of Rannoch Moor and the<br />

sharply peaked Buachaille Etive Mor mountain.<br />

Midway up the mountain there’s a natural bowl with<br />

a large plateau area, and the upper reaches have some<br />

superb runs, including the famous Flypaper. And for<br />

the kids there are igloo-building and snowman-building<br />

competitions for World Snow Day and Snow Fest.<br />

“<br />

No matter what time of year you visit,<br />

and whether deep in the glen or high on<br />

the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife can be as<br />

spectacular as its mountains.<br />

”<br />

Stay on-site in the snug tubular Microlodges, or<br />

in the village of Glencoe itself, 11 miles from the ski<br />

resort, beside Loch Leven, at the mouth of the valley, in<br />

charming lochside hotels and welcoming guesthouses.<br />

Around the village are walks to suit all abilities,<br />

or spend a day in Fort William, on the shore of Loch<br />

Linnhe, known as the outdoor capital of the UK, with<br />

its sandy beaches, castles and distilleries. You could even<br />

scale the 4,413-foot Ben Nevis – and no matter what<br />

time of year you visit, and whether deep in the<br />

glen or high on the moor, Glencoe’s wildlife<br />

can be as spectacular as its mountains.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 23

BEST UK<br />


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Gift Shop Free Parking Free Audio Tour Available in 30 Languages


Pictured: Views from the<br />

Cairngorm Mountain Resort<br />

Cairngorm Mountain Resort<br />

Situated in the heart of Cairngorm National Park, on the country’s<br />

sixth-highest mountain, the resort has 31 runs (13 green, 10 blue, six<br />

red, two black), accessed by 12 lifts, and two cafés – one café is the<br />

UK’s highest.<br />

Views from the top, 4,0484 feet, are spectacular, with the peaks<br />

of the surrounding mountain range and Loch Morlich glistening<br />

below. The 1.2-mile funicular railway, the UK’s highest, runs from the<br />

base station to Ptarmigan, the top station at 3,599 feet. It has been<br />

closed since 2018 but is being repaired and set to reopen in winter<br />

2022. Another record-holder is the UK’s highest red phone box, still<br />

fully operational.<br />

Stay in and around the popular holiday resort of Aviemore, just<br />

11 miles away, which plays host to the Scottish Freestyle Ski and<br />

Snowboard Championships every March, with everything from<br />

luxury hotels, B&Bs or cottages to rent or, for a more rural location,<br />

there are cosy wooden lodges at Badaguish Outdoor Centre in<br />

Glenmore, at the foot of the Cairngorms, surrounded by centuriesold<br />

pine forest.<br />

Aviemore makes an excellent base for exploring the wild reaches<br />

of the Cairngorms National Park, especially for spotting some of<br />

the native wildlife, such as eagles, capercaillie and osprey. And how<br />

about mingling with Britain’s only free-ranging reindeer herd at the<br />

Cairngorm Reindeer Centre at nearby Glenmore? Treat yourself<br />

to a trip on the Strathspey Steam Railway on a heritage steam<br />

locomotive, with afternoon tea en route. Or travel here by train<br />

aboard the Caledonian Sleeper, the overnight service from London,<br />

which stops in Aviemore.<br />

GET YOUR<br />


—<br />

For more frozen fun, skating on<br />

seasonal ice rinks is a much-loved<br />

activity that’s now become part of the<br />

run-up to Christmas. The pandemic<br />

is still affecting future events; please<br />

check details before you go.<br />

Somerset House, Strand, London<br />

London’s most glamorous rink, set in the<br />

18th-century courtyard of this working<br />

arts centre and exhibition space, open<br />

all day and into the evening.<br />

somersethouse.org.uk<br />

Skate Manchester, Cathedral Gardens<br />

Experience Manchester’s undercover<br />

outdoor ice rink, located in the heart of<br />

the city centre.<br />

skatemanchester.com<br />

Royal Pavilion, Brighton<br />

With the former royal pleasure palace<br />

as its impressive backdrop, this rink is<br />

powered by wind and solar energy.<br />

royalpavilionicerink.co.uk<br />

Life Science Centre,<br />

Newcastle-upon-Tyne<br />

Glide around this city-centre rink<br />

with the award-winning science<br />

centre as a backdrop.<br />

life.org.uk<br />

<strong>Winter</strong> Wonderland, Cardiff<br />

Instead of going round and round<br />

a rink, follow the ice walk in the<br />

shadow of Cardiff Castle.<br />

visitcardiff.com/discover/christmas<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 25

26 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


TOM<br />


Owner of the first pub to win two Michelin stars, Tom Kerridge<br />

reflects on his stratospheric success and his <strong>2021</strong> new launch<br />

Words | Chantal Borciani<br />

THE RESTAURANT trade is not for the fainthearted – any business owner<br />

emerging from the last couple of years will attest to this – but Michelin chef Tom<br />

Kerridge has never been averse to seizing an opportunity and rolling the dice.<br />

In 2005, Kerridge and his artist wife Beth bought a rundown pub in Marlow,<br />

Buckinghamshire, and invested every penny they had in the business. The gamble paid<br />

off, and then some – within 10 months The Hand & Flowers won its first Michelin star and<br />

it’s been one of Britain’s finest gastronomic flag bearers ever since. “It was a real case of<br />

just grabbing an opportunity and running with it. Working with your other half is amazing.<br />

Sometimes it’s very hard to know the boundaries between your work life and home life – it<br />

all becomes a bit of a melting pot – but you’re both driven to create something fantastic and<br />

exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve things together as a team.”<br />

In 2012, The Hand & Flowers won its second Michelin star, making it the first gastropub to<br />

receive two stars in Michelin history. “I think the second star was even bigger because we<br />

had constantly reinvested in the business, the company and the people. We got rooms on<br />

board (Kerridge has cottages and luxurious bedrooms dotted around the charming town<br />

of Marlow for rental) and we just tried to get better every day. We didn’t expect to win two<br />

stars. It’s such a monumental achievement for anyone to win two, but for us to do it in a<br />

pub and being the first pub to do it, was just mind-blowing. Every year when it maintains<br />

that level, it’s like winning it all over again.”<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 27

PUB GRUB<br />

Tom says his cooking is honest with<br />

menu inspirations often taking one dish<br />

– even if intrinsically very simple – “and<br />

doing it the very best it can be done”.<br />

It’s a recipe that has worked wonders,<br />

with the Michelin guide inclusion for The<br />

Hand & Flowers reading: “Food is based<br />

around pub classics, but those classics<br />

are elevated to new heights and are<br />

among the best in the UK. The sourcing<br />

of ingredients is given due reverence and<br />

execution is skilful and confident, while<br />

the dishes themselves are characterised<br />

by rich, powerful flavours – and the<br />

presentation is first-rate. Desserts are<br />

a real highlight and you’ll always find a<br />

soufflé on the list.”<br />

Pictured left to<br />

right: Kerridge’s<br />

grilled lobster and<br />

chips;Tom Kerridge<br />

cooking; Kerridge’s<br />

Bar & Grill, London<br />

Of his ethos, Kerridge says: “A lot of<br />

people sometimes are intimidated<br />

by Michelin stars or Michelin-star<br />

experience, but we want people to<br />

enjoy it and love it. Of course, feel that<br />

there’s something very special there,<br />

but without them feeling that they’re on<br />

edge. For us it’s all about encompassing<br />

and embracing everybody.”<br />

The success of The Hand & Flowers<br />

has led to some delectable offshoots.<br />

Tom now has two further pubs in Marlow<br />

where he lives with his family; The<br />

Coach which opened in 2014 and won a<br />

Michelin star in 2017, and The Butcher’s<br />

Tap – Kerridge’s traditional butchers’<br />

shop that serves the highest quality meat<br />

prepared by expert butchers, which also<br />

28 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

“<br />

Working with your other half is amazing – you’re both driven to create<br />

something fantastic and exciting, and it’s amazing because you achieve<br />

things together as a team.<br />

”<br />

opened in 2017. “Marlow is home. It’s a beautiful<br />

place and so easy for heading in and out of London,”<br />

the chef says.<br />

When it comes to new ventures, Kerridge has<br />

zoned in on venues of historical note. He opened his<br />

first London restaurant Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at the<br />

Corinthia Hotel in 2018 and then went on to open his<br />

Manchester restaurant The Bull & Bear in 2019 at the<br />

new Stock Exchange Hotel.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 29

“<br />

I fell for the energy – the<br />

excitement, the late nights, and<br />

the early mornings... the nine to<br />

five, Monday to Friday was never<br />

going to have been for me<br />

”<br />


Born and raised in Gloucestershire, it was a<br />

combination of luck and necessity that led him into the<br />

hospitality trade, aged 18. “I needed some money, so I<br />

went to wash up in a kitchen when I was 18, and I just<br />

fell in love with the industry. I fell for the energy – the<br />

excitement, the late nights, and the early mornings.<br />

After all the routine of school, there was something so<br />

exciting about it all. The nine to five, Monday to Friday<br />

was never going to have been for me.”<br />

Kerridge went to culinary school in Cheltenham<br />

and worked in country houses and hotels across<br />

Gloucestershire as a junior chef before moving to<br />

London in his early 20s to work with the likes of Philip<br />

Britton, Gary Rhodes and Steven Bull.<br />

“You can get influenced more by people who<br />

sometimes you don’t work with – like big names in the<br />

industry, great French chefs and fantastic people like<br />

Marco Pierre White; his White Heat cookery book has<br />

been amazing for many chefs my age. But I suppose<br />

one person in my career who stands out is Gary<br />

Rhodes. Having spent time working with Gary, the<br />

godfather of <strong>British</strong> cuisine, is special.”<br />

Kerridge's food continues to be honest, true to its<br />

roots and more often than not a celebration of Britain,<br />

which makes his latest opening – Kerridge’s Fish &<br />

Chips in Harrods, in the historic Grade-II-listed Dining<br />

Hall – an even better fit.<br />

Launched in summer <strong>2021</strong>, the sociable, laidback<br />

food hall has booths and a bar, with a menu that<br />

includes freshly caught turbot, lobster, Rock oysters,<br />

Cornish squid, and Dublin Bay prawns, along with<br />

joyously <strong>British</strong> sides of pease pudding, and snacks of<br />

chip shop pickled onions, cockle ‘popcorn’ with malted<br />

beer vinegar, Morecambe Bay shrimps and treacle<br />

bread. Kerridge adds: “It’s a massive celebration<br />

of <strong>British</strong> food in such a magical shop. The dishes<br />

include incredible lobster, oysters and freshly caught<br />

fish from some of the best suppliers in Britain and<br />

beyond. They are all cooked to perfection and served<br />

with sensational sides, such as the triple-cooked chips<br />

topped with an option of Matson curry sauce, Lobster<br />

Thermidor, Morecambe Bay Shrimps or Caviar – it’s an<br />

unbeatable combination.<br />

“Everyone remembers trips to Harrods as a kid. I<br />

remember going with my grandparents and walking<br />

around with my mouth wide open thinking how<br />

magical it was – and how special to now be able to<br />

serve our food there.<br />

We see it as a great place to represent Great Britain<br />

and the food that we do.”<br />

30 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured<br />

clockwise from<br />

left: Bar at<br />

Kerridge's Bar &<br />

Grill, London;<br />

Kerridge's fish and<br />

chips; Kerridge's<br />

prawns and chips;<br />

Kerridge's haddock<br />

and chips; Entrance<br />

to Kerridge's Bar<br />

& Grill<br />

OFF MENU<br />

The king of elevating <strong>British</strong> classics, Kerridge notes<br />

his fish-and-chip dishes as some of his favourites<br />

from across his menus: “Fish and chips appears on<br />

all of the restaurants at some point, in some style, so<br />

that’s something that represents us really well, I think.<br />

There’s a smoked haddock omelette that’s on the<br />

starters at The Hand & Flowers that has been there<br />

pretty much from the beginning, which is another dish<br />

we are really proud of.”<br />

Despite the challenging last 18 months, it’s buoying<br />

to see a chef still as enamoured with his kitchens and<br />

his craft. “It’s not a job, it’s a way of life and it’s what<br />

I fell in love with all those years ago. The energy, the<br />

chaotic hours, the enthusiasm.”<br />

When he does take a break, he retreats to Cornwall,<br />

where best friend and top chef Paul Ainsworth has<br />

his famous restaurant No6, alongside Caffè Rojano,<br />

The Mariners Public House, Mahé Cookery School<br />

and Chef’s Table, with rooms at Ainsworth’s Padstow<br />

Townhouse. “He’s down in Padstow in Cornwall and<br />

Paul’s got rooms at the Padstow Townhouse and his<br />

restaurant No6 is just fantastic so we love going down<br />

there.”<br />

Humble, down to earth and authentic – true of both<br />

the dishes and the chef – Kerridge has no plans for further<br />

named expansions and so continues to lead from the front<br />

and keep food at the core of all that he does.<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 31

32 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

GREEN<br />



The Michelin Green Star is a prestigious new accolade<br />

for planet-conscious cooking. Here, we unearth what it<br />

takes to achieve this ultimate award for sustainability and<br />

meet some of the restaurants that are proudly offering both<br />

gastronomic and environmental excellence<br />

Words | Sophie Farrah<br />

YOU MAY HAVE HEARD of the Michelin star, but how about its<br />

sustainable sister? Unveiled by the Michelin Guide in 2020, the Green<br />

Star is a new annual award that recognises exceptional restaurants that<br />

are operating in a truly sustainable manner; those combining culinary<br />

excellence with outstanding environmental efforts. In the <strong>2021</strong> edition of the Michelin<br />

Guide Great Britain and Ireland, just 23 restaurants received this new eco accolade.<br />

“Many chefs have been creating their cuisine to the rhythm of nature and the<br />

planet's resources for years. By giving credit to some of the most committed ones,<br />

we hope to shape a positive and progressive momentum,” explains Gwendal<br />

Poullennec, International Director of the Michelin Guide.<br />

Restaurants can only qualify for this new, green-clover-leaf symbol if they have<br />

already been recognised by Michelin in some way, either in the form of a Star, Bib<br />

Gourmand or Plate, and there is absolutely no room for greenwashing; Michelin’s<br />

rigorous inspectors are looking for those who are at the very top of their game when<br />

it comes to operating in a sustainable way.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 33

“<br />

I feel that restaurants and guides have a responsibility to lead by example...<br />

and the Green Star does exactly that. Michelin have taken the first step,<br />

and we couldn’t be prouder to be one of the first restaurants awarded .<br />

”<br />

“Gourmets and foodies have<br />

become more challenging of their ways<br />

of consuming, trying to leverage the<br />

environmental impact of their actions<br />

and choices. We want to demonstrate<br />

that both gastronomic and eco-friendly<br />

excellence can go hand in hand,” says<br />

Gwendal.<br />

On Cornwall’s Lizard Peninsula,<br />

New Yard Restaurant is housed<br />

in a converted stable building on<br />

the Trelowarren Estate. It offers a<br />

leisurely seven-course set menu that<br />

is guided by the seasons and created<br />

using ingredients that have either<br />

been foraged on the estate, grown<br />

in the walled garden or ethically<br />

sourced from the local area. It is a ‘no<br />

option’ menu, which keeps wastage,<br />

staff labour and fuel to a minimum.<br />

Produce is grown using regenerative<br />

agricultural methods, such as ‘no dig’<br />

gardening and using animals to keep<br />

the soil healthy. Sometimes, the menu<br />

isn’t finalised until the same day, when<br />

local fisherman, John, knows how<br />

many covers are booked and delivers<br />

whatever he thinks is best.<br />

“Putting our menu design in the<br />

hands of our local suppliers means that<br />

we use what’s abundant rather than<br />

creating extra demand for what isn’t,”<br />

explains New Yard’s co-owner and<br />

executive chef, Jeffrey Robinson.<br />

“I feel that restaurants and guides<br />

have a responsibility to lead by<br />

34 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured previous<br />

page: Scotland's<br />

Green Star; Inver<br />

in Strachur<br />

Pictured left<br />

to right:<br />

New Yard<br />

Restaurant's<br />

flavours from the<br />

garden: cured<br />

monkfish, curry oil,<br />

yoghurt, grape and<br />

almond; serving<br />

of pheasant; and<br />

smoked cod's roe<br />

with carrots.<br />

example with how the food system<br />

is used, and the Green Star does<br />

exactly that. Michelin have taken<br />

the first step, and we couldn’t<br />

be prouder to be one of the first<br />

restaurants awarded.”<br />

Wales’ only Green Star was<br />

awarded to historic country house<br />

hotel Palé Hall in the tranquil Dee<br />

valley. Its luxurious, fine-dining<br />

restaurant grows its own organic<br />

produce using its own compost,<br />

team uniforms are made from<br />

recycled plastic, and there’s a<br />

hydroelectric plant on-site, which<br />

provides renewable energy.<br />

Scotland is also home to one Green<br />

Star; Inver in Strachur. Set in an<br />

isolated former crofter’s cottage<br />

and boat store on the shore of<br />

Loch Fyne, this beautiful restaurant<br />

has stunning views out across the<br />

water, and luxurious, eco-friendly,<br />

bothy-style bedrooms. Here, chefowner<br />

Pamela Brunton uses local,<br />

wild and foraged ingredients to<br />

create her outstanding modern<br />

menus.<br />

“Sustainability is the ground on<br />

which we build our business; it’s<br />

much more than just a ‘subject’ to<br />

us,” she explains.<br />

“The people, landscape, plants<br />

and animals that guide and shape<br />

our menus are an ecosystem, in<br />

which we are one evolving part. If<br />

they don’t thrive, neither can we.”<br />

Elsewhere in the countryside,<br />

there's another Green Star at<br />

Daylesford Organic Farm in<br />

Gloucestershire, which has<br />

promoted sustainable farming<br />

for over 40 years. Attached to a<br />

farm shop is a stylish restaurant<br />

that houses a wood-fired oven,<br />

a botanical cocktail bar and a<br />

carefully curated menu of mostly<br />

organic food. In Axminster, the<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 35

Pictured clockwise from left: The Baba Au Rhum at<br />

New Yard Restaurant; Dover sole with mussels and<br />

coastal vegetables at Petersham Nurseries; using<br />

regenerative methods in New Yard Restaurant's Walled<br />

Garden to grow fruit, vegetables and flowers as well as<br />

rear two Kunekune pigs and fourteen chickens; freshly<br />

picked tomatoes at Petersham Nurseries<br />

focus at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s<br />

rustic River Cottage Kitchen is also<br />

on seasonal, organic produce, with<br />

a menu of flavour-filled, plant-based<br />

dishes made using ingredients from its<br />

nearby farm. Staff are also treated in<br />

a sustainable manner here; working<br />

hours are fair, good food is provided,<br />

and 100% of tips are shared. In the<br />

kitchen, as much single-use plastic<br />

has been eliminated as possible, cling<br />

film is nowhere to be seen, and milk is<br />

delivered in metal churns.<br />

These ethical and environmental<br />

efforts are not reserved for rural<br />

restaurants alone, oh no. Just off Eyre<br />

Square in Galway city, Loam is the<br />

recipient of both a Michelin Star for its<br />

exceptional and ambitious cooking,<br />

and a Green Star for its rigorously<br />

eco-friendly approach. The seasonally<br />

driven menu is a masterclass in modern<br />

cooking and changes daily, depending<br />

on the availability of local produce.<br />

Chef–owner Enda McEvoy<br />

goes above and beyond to ensure<br />

sustainability; local potters provide<br />

tableware, and local horticulturists<br />

grow wildflowers for the tables,<br />

thus supporting the local economy.<br />

Vegetables and meat are sourced<br />

directly from farmers, game from<br />

hunters, and seafood and fish from local<br />

fishers. In the kitchen, fermenting and<br />

salting techniques are used to prevent<br />

waste, as is a composting system.<br />

Electricity comes from renewable<br />

sources, water usage is closely<br />

36 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

‘<br />

Silo is the world’s first zero-waste restaurant... and everything, from the<br />

stylish furniture to the cool crockery, is made with recycled materials.<br />

’<br />

monitored, and induction is used for<br />

cooking, as it uses less energy.<br />

“Urban environments are where<br />

transformative action must take<br />

place, because by 2050 two-thirds<br />

of the world's population will<br />

be living in urban areas. That’s<br />

a lot of food, water, waste and<br />

energy needed, so cities have a<br />

pivotal opportunity to achieve the<br />

goals of the Paris Agreement (the<br />

international treaty on climate<br />

change),” says Enda.<br />

“Recognising efforts in the<br />

industry and the pivotal role<br />

that hospitality can play is<br />

hugely important. It encourages<br />

learning between restaurants and<br />

normalises sustainability efforts,<br />

rather than it being seen as a fringe<br />

movement.”<br />

In Hackney, East London,<br />

Silo is the world’s first zero-waste<br />

restaurant; the menu is mainly<br />

plant-based and everything, from<br />

the stylish furniture to the cool<br />

crockery, is made with recycled<br />

materials. Elsewhere in the<br />

capital, the picturesque Petersham<br />

Nurseries Café in Richmond has<br />

also received a Green Star, having<br />

championed sustainable practices<br />

for over 20 years. Alongside the<br />

delicious food, waste management<br />

is just as important; an advanced<br />

aerobic food digester uses oxygen,<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 37

1334<br />


Putting the <strong>British</strong> into <strong>British</strong> tea<br />

for the first time in history.<br />

Tregothnan has pioneered botanical firsts since 1334,<br />

experimenting with new plants like the tea genus for over two<br />

centuries. We finally perfected the first ever tea production in the<br />

UK in 2005. Today we continue to innovate inspired by our precious<br />

plants and gardens.<br />

www.tregothnan.co.uk /tregothnan @tregothnan @tregothnan

Pictured: New Yard Restaurant's<br />

Walled Garden<br />

microorganisms and warm water to turn plate waste into a<br />

liquid that can then be poured away, eliminating the need for<br />

any vehicular transportation. Menus here stick firmly to seasonal<br />

vegetables and fruits, with as few food miles generated as<br />

possible. Seven on-site beehives offer honey, while the owner’s<br />

family farm provides many of the organic ingredients used to<br />

create head chef Ambra Papa’s Italian-style dishes, which are<br />

served in a stunning bougainvillea- and jasmine-filled glasshouse.<br />

“Consumers are becoming far more demanding when it comes<br />

to knowing where their food comes from, and that’s a good<br />

thing,” enthuses Ambra.<br />

“I hope that the Green Star will highlight the fact that you can<br />

be green and successful at the same time. Quite often, it’s not the<br />

easiest and certainly not the cheapest way of operating, but it is<br />

the right way to run a business.”<br />

So, next time you’re (Michelin) star spotting, why not look out<br />

for a green one?<br />


IN FULL<br />

—<br />


☆Angela's, Margate<br />

☆Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat'<br />

Saisons, Great Milton<br />

☆Black Swan, Oldstead<br />

☆Coombeshead Farm, Lewannick<br />

☆Daylesford Organic Farm,<br />

Daylesford, Hypha, Chester<br />

☆L'Enclume, Cartmel<br />

☆New Yard, Trelowarren<br />

☆Oxo Tower Brasserie, Southwark,<br />

London<br />

☆Petersham Nurseries Café,<br />

Richmond, London<br />

☆Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham<br />

☆River Cottage Kitchen, Axminster<br />

☆Silo, Hackney, London<br />

☆The Dining Room, Whatley Manor,<br />

Malmesbury<br />

☆The Ethicurean, Wrington<br />

☆The Small Holding, Kilndown<br />

☆Tredwells, Strand and Covent<br />

Garden, London<br />

☆Where the Light Gets In, Stockport<br />


☆Inver, Strachur<br />

WALES<br />

☆Henry Robertson Dining Room,<br />

Palé Hall, Llandderfel<br />


☆Inis Meáin Restaurant and Suites,<br />

Inishmaan, Aran Islands<br />

☆Kai, Galway<br />

☆Loam, Galway<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 39


Str atford-<br />


Visit Stratford-upon-Avon<br />

to catch a performance of<br />

one of Shakespeare’s plays<br />

or take a boat on the river<br />

Words | Adrian Mourby<br />

YOU CAN’T GO anywhere in<br />

Stratford without being performed<br />

at. In the garden of Shakespeare’s<br />

birthplace three costumed<br />

performers accost visitors, asking<br />

them to name one of his plays. They then declaim<br />

a speech from memory for you.<br />

Guests pass through this garden to reach<br />

the house from which John Shakespeare ran<br />

his glove-making enterprise in Stratford. The<br />

ground floor living room is decorated with<br />

vividly printed cloth, which was known as<br />

‘poor man’s tapestry’. Shakespeare Senior<br />

wasn’t poor, but he was not the gentleman<br />

his son became. When William returned to<br />

Stratford in 1610, he arranged for a coat of<br />

arms to be granted to his father, which meant<br />

that henceforth the Shakespeares could carry<br />

swords.<br />

John’s workshop for making gloves lies off the<br />

living room via a small passageway. It’s been<br />

reconstructed as it might have looked in the<br />

16th century and there’s a costumed<br />

guide in there to explain how gloves were<br />

made in Tudor times. He’ll even tell you<br />

how many references there are to leather<br />

glove-making in Shakespeare’s plays.<br />

Str atford<br />

-upon<br />

-Avon<br />


40 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

–<br />

One Elm<br />

Built where one of three elm trees once marked the town<br />

boundary, this popular Stratford pub has a courtyard<br />

for summer dining and a ‘snug’ and loft for cooler<br />

weather. The loft is decorated with original David Bailey<br />

black-and-white photos from the 1960s of stars such as<br />

Michael Caine, David Hockney, and Mick Jagger. The<br />

menu offers the best of <strong>British</strong> pub fare with a number of<br />

local real ales offered on a Sip Before You Sup basis – so<br />

there’s no danger of choosing the wrong one.<br />

oneelmsstratford.co.uk<br />


–<br />

RSC Rooftop Restaurant<br />

For the best river views before going to a play at the<br />

Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), take the lift to<br />

the third floor where an informal dining area has been<br />

carved out of what once was the back of the auditorium.<br />

A chair nailed to the wall above the tables indicates<br />

the position of the back row of the old upper circle. The<br />

stage must have seemed tiny from up there. The RSC<br />

Riverside Café is another option for take-away hot and<br />

cold drinks, homemade cakes, sandwiches and snacks.<br />

rsc.org.uk/restaurant-cafes-bars<br />

–<br />

El Greco<br />

This Greek restaurant is run by chef Dimitri and his<br />

ebullient wife Flair. El Greco offers the chance to eat a<br />

pre-theatre main course before heading down to the<br />

RSC then come back after curtain-down to finish off<br />

with dessert. The service is very cheery; Flair greets<br />

just about everyone like an old friend. The house wine<br />

is from Macedonia and there is a very good 22-dish<br />

Greek Banquet available for just over £20. On Fridays<br />

and Saturdays there is often Greek dancing upstairs.<br />

el-greco.co.uk<br />

Pictured left: New Place<br />

and Nash's House, the final<br />

home of William Shakespeare,<br />

manged by the Shakespeare<br />

Birthplace Trust<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 41

Pictured below: William Shakespeare's birthplace<br />

Upstairs, guests can walk through bedrooms<br />

and see the attic where apprentices lived. There<br />

is a window that illustrious visitors have signed<br />

over the years, cutting into the glass with their<br />

diamond rings. Among them is the signature<br />

of the great Shakespearean actor Henry Irving<br />

(1838–1905).<br />

Leaving via the Shakespeare Bookshop, walk<br />

down Henley Street past the various buskers to<br />

the old Barclays Bank on the corner. Until 1908<br />

this building was Stratford’s market hall. Now<br />

turn right along High Street. Though many of<br />

the shopfronts ahead are modern, their first<br />

and second floors are still half-timbered from<br />

Shakespeare’s time. Halfway down on the right<br />

stands Harvard House, where the maternal<br />

grandparents of John Harvard, one of the<br />

founders of Harvard College, Massachusetts<br />

lived. Harvard’s grandfather Thomas Rogers<br />

(1540–1611), served on Stratford’s borough<br />

corporation with John Shakespeare.<br />

As High Street turns into Chapel Street, we<br />

come to Nash’s House. It’s another Jacobean<br />

half-timbered structure and now contains<br />

the New Place Museum, which is devoted<br />

to Shakespeare’s last years in Stratford.<br />

Thomas Nash married one of Shakespeare’s<br />

granddaughters, Elizabeth. Next door to<br />

Nash’s stood the house known as ‘New Place’.<br />

Shakespeare wrote many of his best later plays<br />

here. Sadly the house was demolished in 1759,<br />

an act of cultural vandalism that made the<br />

then owner so unpopular that he had to leave<br />

Stratford. Today the site of New Place is an<br />

open-air memorial to Shakespeare, with his<br />

gardens laid out in Tudor style running almost<br />

down to the River Avon.<br />

Continuing over the road junction into<br />

Church Street, the Guild Chapel of the Holy<br />

Cross is a 13th-century church with dramatic<br />

15th-century murals. They were paid for by<br />

Hugh Clopton, Lord Mayor of London, who had<br />

–<br />

The Townhouse<br />

This family home stood here in Shakespeare’s time.<br />

Rooms to the rear of the hotel still date from the 1600s,<br />

but in 1768 the house was given an early neo-Gothic<br />

makeover, with ogee windows to the front. Today the<br />

Townhouse is an 11-bedroom boutique hotel with quirky<br />

decor and the occasional framed Shakespearean quote.<br />

stratfordtownhouse.co.uk<br />


–<br />

Billesley Manor<br />

Legend has it that Shakespeare wrote part of his comedy<br />

As You Like It in the library of this stone-built manor house<br />

five miles east of Stratford. The Church of All Saints in the<br />

hotel gardens was where Shakespeare’s granddaughter,<br />

Elizabeth was married in 1646 and may have been where<br />

Shakespeare himself married Anne Hathaway. The<br />

topiary gardens of Billesley are a reconstruction, but the<br />

dining room has an authentically Jacobean feel.<br />

billesleymanor.com<br />

–<br />

The Arden<br />

Located opposite the Swan Theatre, the Arden has long<br />

been associated with the Royal Shakespeare Company.<br />

Many actors have stayed here and the bar is full of<br />

production photos. Today the hotel has 35 rooms and<br />

suites. If you eat a pre-theatre supper in the restaurant,<br />

you can arrange to have dessert delivered to your room<br />

to await you after curtain-down.<br />

theardenhotelstratford.com<br />

42 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com






CV35 9HZ<br />

14TH - 17TH OCTOBER <strong>2021</strong><br />


11AM - 5PM<br />

Complimentary tickets covering<br />

admission to the grounds<br />

and the fair are available<br />

online at:<br />

www.thecada.org<br />

Further information<br />

T: 07855 443913

Pictured below: Rear gardens to Nash's House next door to<br />

Shakespeare's final residence, New Place<br />

owned New Place before Shakespeare bought it.<br />

Ironically Shakespeare’s father was one of those<br />

Stratford aldermen who, in the 16th century,<br />

whitewashed over these gaudy paintings because<br />

they were considered papist.<br />

Next to the Guild Chapel is King Edward VI<br />

School, which young Shakespeare attended. In<br />

the classrooms upstairs there is often an actor in<br />

costume describing school life in Shakespeare’s time.<br />

Escaping the entertainment, continue west<br />

on Church Street and turn left into the lane<br />

known as ‘Old Town’. Soon you’ll come to Hall’s<br />

Croft, a grand timber-framed Tudor house<br />

that was the home of Dr John Hall, who in 1607<br />

married Shakespeare’s daughter Susanna,<br />

mother of Elizabeth.<br />

We know that the parlour passageway at<br />

the back of the house was added by Susanna.<br />

We also know that the kitchen was originally<br />

a separate building, isolated within the walled<br />

garden for fire prevention reasons and only<br />

later linked to the house. Upstairs there is a<br />

dispensary exhibition reflecting John Hall’s work<br />

and medical practices in the early 17th century.<br />

Now walk on down Old Town towards the<br />

River Avon and Holy Trinity Church to find<br />

Shakespeare’s polychromatic monument in the<br />

chancel. This is one of our best-known images<br />

of Shakespeare with his pointy beard and bald<br />

head. The dramatist’s tomb lies nearby, as do<br />

the graves of his family.<br />

Finally, walk through the graveyard to pick<br />

up the riverside walk that heads back into<br />

Stratford. The route goes back through<br />

Avonbank Gardens with its odd little<br />

neoclassical temple. This pavilion was once<br />

part of Avonbank School, attended by young<br />

ladies such as Charlotte Bronte’s biographer,<br />

Elizabeth Gaskell and John Ruskin’s future wife<br />

Effie Gray. Pleasure boats and rowing boats<br />

occupy this part of the river. There is also an<br />

old hand-cranked chain ferry called Malvolio<br />

that still operates and charges 20p to cross<br />

the river. This garden route ends at the Swan<br />

Theatre, which was originally the Shakespeare<br />

Memorial Theatre that burned down in 1926.<br />

It was reopened as a theatre only in 1986 and<br />

now houses a small auditorium and a museum<br />

of Shakespeare performance called The Play’s<br />

the Thing. A boardwalk now takes this route<br />

along the river and past the new Memorial<br />

Theatre, the best-known Shakespeare venue in<br />

the world. It opened in 1932 and was radically<br />

reconceived and rebuilt from 2007 to 2011.<br />

A lift from the new lobby takes visitors to the<br />

Rooftop restaurant, with its panoramic view<br />

across the whole of Stratford.<br />

Coming up in our next issue:<br />

From the stunning Clifton Gorge down to Bristol’s historic dockland,<br />

we walk this dramatic Georgian city. Join us for a stroll around its<br />

vibrant streets and waterfront harbour, full of energy and colour.<br />



From the imposing heights of<br />

Clifton Gorge down to this city's<br />

lovely reclaimed harbours, Bristol<br />

is a beautiful Georgian port full<br />

of energy and colour. Join us<br />

for a stroll around its streets.<br />


—<br />

This 2 mile walk<br />

takes about 45<br />

minutes but<br />

will of course<br />

take longer if<br />

you stop to take<br />

photographs or<br />

divert off it to<br />

explore all the<br />

curious and<br />

Words | Adrian Mourby<br />

LOREM IPSUM dolor<br />

sit amet, consectetur<br />

adipiscing elit. Curabitur<br />

nibh purus, imperdiet vel<br />

semper id, consectetur id<br />

velit. Maecenas vehicula quam eget<br />

nisi consectetur finibus. Nullam<br />

mi purus, laoreet ac tempus a,<br />

egestas ac dolor. Vivamus cursus a<br />

sem nec porta. Aenean vulputate<br />

accumsan congue. Vestibulum<br />

nec congue nunc. Donec pulvinar<br />

magna in volutpat porta. Integer<br />

vel nulla in mauris finibus pharetra.<br />

Phasellus sem libero, dignissim<br />

vitae malesuada vitae, venenatis<br />

ac diam. Orci varius natoque<br />

penatibus et magnis dis parturient<br />

montes, nascetur ridiculus mus.<br />

Duis diam erat, ultricies sit amet mi<br />

non, aliquet gravida urna. Class<br />

aptent taciti sociosqu ad litora<br />

torquent per conubia nostra, per<br />

inceptos himenaeos. Fusce semper<br />

malesuada odio, in pellentesque<br />

142 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 143<br />

Pictured: Rear<br />

gardens to<br />

Nash's House<br />

next door to<br />

Shakespeare's<br />

final residence<br />

Bristol<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 45





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10<br />


AUTUMN<br />

STAYS<br />

We all want somewhere gorgeous to stay – and<br />

these places are all certainly that – but they<br />

also have a little extra to add to the holiday vibe<br />

Words | Emma O'Reilly<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 47



Fancy falling asleep to the<br />

sound of lions roaring and<br />

waking up to a view of giraffes striding<br />

past the window? The good news is<br />

that you don’t have to travel to Africa to<br />

experience it – just Wiltshire! Longleat<br />

have opened three stylish new cottages<br />

within their grounds. Keeper’s Cottage<br />

(sleeps two) and Keeper’s House (sleeps<br />

four) are within the safari park itself, while<br />

East Lodge, the Longleat gatehouse,<br />

is at the top of the driveway. With each<br />

booking guests receive park tickets<br />

for each day of their stay, a welcome<br />

hamper and continental breakfast. At<br />

the Keeper’s properties, an exclusive 4x4<br />

guided safari tour is also included – don’t<br />

forget the binoculars, as you’re likely<br />

to see lions, tigers, zebra, rhino, wolves<br />

and more. Longleat House itself is well<br />

worth a visit, with its high Elizabethan<br />

architecture, sumptuous state rooms and<br />

Capability-Brown-designed grounds.<br />

Events this autumn and winter include<br />

a hot air balloon ‘Sky Safari’ and the<br />

fantastical lanterns of the Festival of Light.<br />

Cottages from £375 per night.<br />

longleat.co.uk<br />

1<br />


Unwind, quite literally, on a yoga break in the heart of the<br />

Yorkshire Dales. Dalesend Cottages are on a private<br />

estate in the grounds of a much larger house, also available<br />

for hire. Each of the four exquisite cottages (think: super king-size<br />

beds, woodburners and free standing baths) sleeps two people<br />

and guests can take advantage of one of the most enticing on-site<br />

yoga studios we have seen. Come as a couple or with friends,<br />

book yourselves in for some of the regular group classes, or private<br />

sessions with yoga teacher Emma. When you’re not salutating the<br />

sun, yomp around 25 acres of parkland or strike into the countryside<br />

of the Yorkshire Dales, dotted with interesting market towns and<br />

stately homes and gardens. Three-night breaks start from £487 per<br />

property. Yoga lessons cost extra.<br />

dalesendcottages.co.uk<br />

48 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


WILL<br />

LOVE<br />


Book a break at Hugh Fearnley<br />

Whittingstall’s River Cottage, in<br />

a bucolic setting on the Dorset–Devon<br />

border. Even better, sign up for a cookery course<br />

(what else?) while you are here. Bedrooms in the<br />

old farmhouse are whitewashed, comfortable and<br />

simply stylish. Breakfast is served in a room with<br />

flagstone floors and an old Esse stove. Courses<br />

running this autumn range from cider making to<br />

bread making and cooking over outdoor fires.<br />

There are lessons in fermenting and foraging, an<br />

‘Eat Better Forever’ session with Hugh, a one-day<br />

cookery course and a more in-depth four day<br />

alternative (with Hugh on veg duty). The Axminster<br />

Kitchen is standing by to feed you when you’re not in<br />

the middle of a lesson. There are walks into a nature<br />

reserve near the house, and the incredible Jurassic<br />

Coast is just a 10-minute drive away for walks, fossil<br />

hunts and mackerel-fishing boat trips.<br />

Doubles from £160 per night, bed and breakfast.<br />

rivercottage.net<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 49




Merry Harriers, a charming 16th-century pub set in<br />

the picturesque village of Hambledon in the Surrey<br />

Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, must<br />

be one of the UK’s most charming country inns – with<br />

new luxurious accommodation and unforgettable<br />

guest experiences, including llama treks, electric bike<br />

hire and gin classes, there is so much more here than<br />

just a hearty pub lunch.<br />

This wonderfully eccentric inn was refurbished<br />

a couple of years ago, following new ownership by<br />

the brilliant Peter de Savary (www.desavary.com) in<br />

2017, to include four new beautifully designed ensuite<br />

bedrooms and three ensuite bedrooms in a converted<br />

barn in the gardens. It is run by husband-and-wife<br />

team, Sam and Danielle Montgomery-Page, and is<br />

the only inn in England to offer picnic llama treks with<br />

its own resident herd.<br />

The inn is steeped in history, with the landlords’<br />

names through the ages written on the pub walls.<br />

Sustainability conscious, the chefs take pride in<br />

using the freshest and best ingredients – foraged<br />

where possible (nettles, blackberries, wild garlic)<br />

and sourced within a 15-mile radius. The menu offers<br />

heart-warming freshly cooked traditional pub staples<br />

and chef’s specials, including exceptional Sunday<br />

roasts and lighter bites, such as sharing platters,<br />

smoked salmon, prawn and gazpacho platter, and<br />

a ham hock terrine. Seasonal specialities are a<br />

50 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

highlight, with wild mushroom and Hambledon nettle risotto<br />

a current favourite.<br />

The emphasis on local suppliers continues at the bar,<br />

where at least two of the four real ales on offer are from<br />

Surrey Brewers, and the Merry Harriers Garden Cider is<br />

made using Hambledon apples donated by residents to the<br />

cider press. Local wines contribute to an impressive wine list<br />

and freshly mixed cocktails are on offer alongside spirits and<br />

superior soft drinks.<br />

Full of character and life, the dog-friendly traditional inn<br />

is less than an hour from London (five minutes from Milford<br />

Station), in the picturesque village of Hambledon, just seven<br />

miles from the charming market town of Haslemere in a<br />

remarkable pocket of England on the edge of the South<br />

Downs National Park, a haven for walkers and cyclists. Stay<br />

and experience the landscape a little differently, with their<br />

fabulous llama treks and picnics on the Greensand Way, and<br />

cycle tours in the Hills.<br />

The herd of lovely llamas now numbers nine, each with<br />

their own individual character and personality. They have an<br />

incredibly calming and therapeutic influence and make the<br />

ideal companion for trekking the outstanding natural beauty<br />

of the Surrey Hills, with its unique flora, fauna and history.<br />

The gentle and friendly llamas will carry your picnic as you<br />

lead them through the spectacular Surrey Hills; from the<br />

high points you can see as far as the South Downs. Llamas<br />

are affectionate, intelligent and alert and will draw your<br />

attention to things you would never normally notice.<br />

Trips on offer include an English Picnic Trek, a <strong>Winter</strong><br />

Morning Trek – to include lunch back at the Merry Harriers,<br />

or even a Luxury Champagne Picnic Trek.<br />

Located deep in rural England, the Surrey Hills have long<br />

been a place to stay for exceptionally quiet and peaceful<br />

nights, but with the launch of their new deluxe Shepherd's<br />

Huts, The Merry Harriers is now your perfect romantic<br />

getaway for a cosy autumn break. Beautifully positioned<br />

around a pond on a pretty manicured lawn in a field across<br />

the road from the inn, they feel snug, safe and secluded.<br />

They're super cosy inside too, with a log burner, sheepskin<br />

rugs, super-cute llama cushions, chic and colourful interiors,<br />

and stylish kitchen and bathroom mod-cons. And of course<br />

no Shepherd's Hut would be complete without its own firepit<br />

and blankets to snuggle down ready for some marshmallow<br />

toasting at sunset.<br />

Jessica was a guest on The Merry Bikation experience. Prices start<br />

from £330 and include a two-night stay in your accommodation<br />

of choice, including Shepherd's Hut, Garden Room or Inn Room,<br />

cooked breakfast on both mornings, a three-course dinner with<br />

preferred local ale on one night of your stay and a hearty packed<br />

lunch for your cycle day in the Hills. Llama Treks are priced from<br />

£89 per adult, £55 per child or £220 for a family. Cycle tours<br />

with Surrey Hills Cycle last up to four hours and there is also a<br />

non-guided tour option and e-bikes available to hire.<br />

merryharriers.com<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 51


WILL<br />

LOVE<br />

5<br />

STAY AND<br />


There will be no twiddling of the<br />

thumbs on a break at the new<br />

Adventure Parc Snowdonia in Gwynedd.<br />

You’ll be too busy surfing, freefalling, zip<br />

wiring and cycling or skateboarding on<br />

a Pump Track. There’s indoor caving and<br />

assault courses if you’re feeling the cold.<br />

Off-site, even more activities beckon,<br />

including coasteering and mountain<br />

walking – the team can also give advice<br />

on lots of alternatives to the overtrodden<br />

Mount Snowdon. The Deli, Bar and Kitchen<br />

keep everyone fuelled in between all the<br />

fun. And, if you feel tired even reading<br />

about that little lot, there is always the<br />

opportunity to kick back in the spa with<br />

treatments. Accommodation is in woodland<br />

or lagoon-side glamping pods (open until<br />

end of October) that sleep up to four, or at<br />

the new Hilton Garden Inn. Adventure Parc<br />

Snowdonia Glamping Pods from £65 per<br />

night; Hilton Garden Inn Snowdonia doubles<br />

from £86 per night, room only.<br />

adventureparcsnowdonia.com<br />

52 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

6STAY AND<br />

SWIM<br />

Anthology Farm, near<br />

Cheltenham, has been<br />

converted from two 18thcentury<br />

barns into a selfcatering<br />

sanctuary. This place<br />

is all soft natural and muted<br />

colours, warm Cotswold stone,<br />

textural fabrics, tasselled<br />

lights, freestanding baths. It's<br />

a little bit Scandi, with a touch<br />

of boho… There’s plenty of<br />

room for 18 to relax. Of great<br />

appeal for autumn and winter<br />

guests is the serene, heated,<br />

indoor pool, where languorous<br />

laps can be totted up while<br />

the weather unfolds over<br />

the surrounding countryside<br />

through the huge glass<br />

windows. Then, wrap up and<br />

sit by the fire, or maybe watch<br />

a film on the big projector<br />

screen. There are 500 acres<br />

to roam from the door, so you<br />

can pretty much guarantee<br />

you won’t see another soul<br />

on your daily strolls. Anyone<br />

missing the outside world can<br />

delve into smart Cheltenham<br />

or explore the adorable<br />

villages of the Cotswolds.<br />

Short breaks from £5,495, one<br />

week stays from £6,850<br />

uniquehomestays.com<br />

7<br />

STAY AND<br />


Pilot House looks, from afar,<br />

like a giant tin can touched down<br />

on the grassy shores of the Sound<br />

of Mull. The circular design, with a<br />

wraparound balcony, means guests<br />

can bask in 360-degree views of this<br />

dazzling Highland landscape and<br />

out over Ardnarmurchan and the Isle<br />

of Mull. Inside, Pilot House is a small<br />

but light-filled space for a couple,<br />

with the bedroom downstairs and<br />

the living space upstairs, a spiral<br />

staircase connecting the two. A<br />

wood burner keeps out the chill, and<br />

a tiny office offers a vista to inspire<br />

would-be novelists and painters.<br />

Days out could include a ferry trip to<br />

Tobermory (aka Ballamory) and a<br />

visit to a whisky distillery. Prices from<br />

£526 for a three-night minimum stay.<br />

coolstays.com<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 53

9<br />

STAY AND<br />



Set in the gorgeous village of Fontmell<br />

Magna in north Dorset, this beautiful<br />

chocolate-box cottage, Fiddlesticks, is on<br />

the edge of West Wiltshire Downs Area of<br />

Outstanding Natural Beauty. Nestled in<br />

the countryside, this wonderful, thatched<br />

retreat is the perfect home from home<br />

to restore and recharge. Sleeping eight,<br />

it has an impressive kitchen and lovely<br />

gardens, as well as a bubbling cedar<br />

wood hot tub. Explore this wonderful part<br />

of England, from the exquisite AONB of<br />

Cranborne Chase and the vibrant town<br />

of Dorchester to the famed coastline of<br />

Studland and Lulworth Cove through to<br />

Lyme Regis. Surrounded by so much to<br />

see and do, you'll never lack for days out,<br />

whether it's pottering in the independent<br />

shops of Shaftsbury, exploring natural<br />

beauty spots, such as Hambledon Hill, or<br />

heading towards the coast where the likes<br />

of Studland, Lulworth Cove and Lyme<br />

Regis await. There are fabulous places to<br />

eat and drink in the area too, and<br />

The Fontmell, an excellent pub and<br />

restaurant, is just 400 metres from the<br />

cottage. Prices from £1,732 for a long<br />

weekend or midweek break.<br />

boutique-retreats.co.uk<br />


If you are looking for a gastronomic break away and love beams and vaulted<br />

ceilings, then the boutique converted barn, Shakepear’s Shoes, with uninterrupted<br />

views of the Warwickshire countryside, is certain not to disappoint.<br />

It comes with exclusive access to a beautifully equipped outdoor-indoor alfresco<br />

living and dining space, with ceramic egg barbecue and pizza oven, and host Adam is an<br />

accomplished chef, available to prepare you anything from afternoon tea to a six-course<br />

fine dining experience. As night falls this is the perfect spot for toasting giant marshmallows<br />

around the fire pit, or to simply relax in the hammock with a good book.<br />

You will also not be short for inspiration on days out, with the delights of Stratfordupon-Avon,<br />

the beautiful Cotswolds, Leamington Spa, Warwick and Cheltenham, to<br />

name but a few, all within easy reach.<br />

Prices from £582 for a three-night stay to include a welcome hamper. Adam offers guests the<br />

option of a partial or fully catered holiday, as well as bespoke cookery workshops, which can be<br />

booked as a full- or half-day experience on prior arrangement.<br />

ruralretreats.co.uk<br />

54 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


WILL<br />

LOVE<br />

10<br />



Homewood is part of a boutique hotel<br />

collection on our 'ones-to-watch' list. The<br />

Bath-based Kaleidoscope Collection trio is a burgeoning<br />

artistic portfolio and also includes The Bird, just a few<br />

minutes’ mosey from the buzzing epicentre of Bath,<br />

and the recently acquired Bishopstrow Hotel & Spa, set<br />

within 27 acres of Wiltshire countryside.<br />

When it comes to hotel design and interiors, owners<br />

Ian and Christa Taylor clearly know what they're doing –<br />

they have been involved in many award-winning projects,<br />

transforming small properties into beautiful boutique<br />

hotels using their signature style of unusual eclectic decor<br />

to create spaces that Alex Polizzi would be proud of.<br />

Homewood is an eccentric country house hotel that<br />

has just launched 10 rooms in its new Mallingford Mews,<br />

each with hot tub suites and balconies.<br />

There's an Instagram-perfect garden spa with<br />

indoor and outdoor pool, a new wellness offering from<br />

Olympian Amy Williams, as well as snazzy dining pods<br />

on the lawn – perfect for afternoon teas, or celebrations<br />

at Christmas, when only a dome will do.<br />

Take a wonderful loop walk through ancient<br />

woodlands and quiet lanes, taking in the River Frome,<br />

with a convenient stop-off at Grade-I-listed Iford Manor<br />

Garden to explore their tranquil grounds, cloister, The<br />

Peto and Italianate gardens. Prices from £295 per night.<br />

homewoodbath.co.uk<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 55


BURGH<br />


In search of an idyllic private island with magical<br />

charm, blessed with exotic plants, translucent seas and<br />

endless amounts of golden sand? Spend your days<br />

exploring ruined castles, discovering shipwreck tales<br />

Words | Lydia Paleschi<br />

UNRIVALLED IN LOCATION, Burgh Island Hotel sits atop its very<br />

own tidal island off the coast of South Devon and is accessible by<br />

foot or car only at low tide, twice a day. At high tide, it is possible<br />

to reach the island via its unique sea tractor, which can navigate<br />

its way through almost six metres of swell. As the tide rises from<br />

either side to cover the beach of Bigbury (a notable attraction in its own right<br />

and recognised as one of the country's best beaches), the hotel's occupants are<br />

transported back in time to their very own microcosm of 1930s glamour.<br />

Burgh Island has an eclectic history of smugglers, celebrities and culture alike.<br />

Known as the second home of Agatha Christie and the setting for her 1939<br />

novel And Then There Were None, it has also been frequented by a number of<br />

famous faces, including Josephine Baker, Sir Winston Churchill and President<br />

Eisenhower. It features a unique architecture, including the addition of the<br />

Captain’s Cabin of the HMS Ganges – a warship – in the 1930s, which is now<br />

used as the Nettlefold restaurant, an excellent place to dine on seafood.<br />

After parking at Bigbury-on-Sea on a blustery November afternoon, we<br />

were collected by the wonderful hotel driver, Richard and transported to the<br />

56 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


island. Here, we were seated in the<br />

Palm Court and handed a flute of<br />

Champagne. In doing so, we had<br />

the perfect opportunity to soak up<br />

the art deco ambience and oceanic<br />

views as we waited for our room to<br />

be prepared. Despite the shoddy<br />

weather and howling winds battering<br />

the hotel from all sides (which in itself<br />

was fantastically atmospheric) we<br />

sat bathed in light in the Palm Court,<br />

thanks to its impressive kaleidoscopic<br />

domed ceiling. Fresh flowers adorned<br />

the bar top, and the velvet chairs were<br />

so plush and comfortable that we sank<br />

Pictured clockwise<br />

from above:<br />

Champagne in the<br />

Palm Court cocktail<br />

bar; Exterior of Burgh<br />

Island Hotel; Palm<br />

Court cocktail bar;<br />

At high tide, it is<br />

possible to reach the<br />

island via its unique<br />

sea tractor<br />

instantly into a luxuriously comfortable<br />

state of bliss. Upon being shown to our<br />

room – the Nettlefold Suite – we were<br />

impressed with its warm and inviting<br />

palette of bronze and brown. Despite<br />

the November weather, our room was<br />

cosy and welcoming, with lovely thick<br />

carpets and bedding. The Nettlefold<br />

includes a fabulous double bed, which<br />

gifted us with the best night’s sleep we’d<br />

had in a long time, as well as a separate<br />

sitting room. A balcony ran the length<br />

of the two rooms, the perfect place<br />

to sit with a pair of binoculars (kindly<br />

provided) to look over the mermaid<br />

58 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

‘<br />

Burgh Island has an eclectic<br />

history of smugglers, celebrities<br />

and culture alike.<br />

’<br />

pool and far out to sea. We were told that on some<br />

occasions you may be lucky enough to spot seals<br />

perching upon the rocks below.<br />

As part of our stay we were offered a complimentary<br />

seven-course taster meal, which required us to dress<br />

our best in full-black-tie attire. We started in the Palm<br />

Court Lounge with canapés and cocktails before<br />

being brought through to the ballroom. With scenes<br />

of a 1930s dinner party adorning the walls at the far<br />

end of the room and the accompaniment of a jazz<br />

piano player throughout all courses, the ballroom<br />

oozes sophistication.<br />

The chandeliers sparkled overhead as we were<br />

served up exquisite cuisine, sourced from high-quality<br />

local produce and provided with impeccable service<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 59

Pictured left to right: The Mermaid Pool, a<br />

private natural sea water bathing pool; The<br />

Pilchard Inn – originally quenching the thirst of<br />

local fishers and then smugglers, its old-fashioned<br />

charm and character still remains<br />

‘<br />

One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been<br />

standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years<br />

’<br />

throughout. The staff were friendly and attentive, and<br />

both the standard and meat-free options were a delight.<br />

No detail was overlooked as the food both tasted<br />

delicious and was presented impeccably.<br />

A particular favourite course of mine was the<br />

starter (confit chicken leg, crispy chicken skin, Marcona<br />

almonds, sweetcorn purée and bacon popcorn) and<br />

the desert (raspberry bavarois, ruby chocolate glaze,<br />

meringue, raspberry sorbet).<br />

Breakfast in the Nettlefold Restaurant the next<br />

morning was very tasty too. With a variety of options,<br />

including cooked breakfasts and pancakes, plus a<br />

continental selection of freshly baked pastries and breads,<br />

we were able to start the day right.<br />

Being able to look out of the windows at the ocean<br />

views and watch windsurfers flying across the waves as the<br />

tide went back out was a bonus.<br />


One of the country’s oldest inns, the Pilchard has been<br />

standing on Burgh Island since 1336 – almost 700 years.<br />

Originally quenching the thirst of local fishers and then<br />

smugglers, its old-fashioned charm and character still<br />

remains. Offering a more laid-back setting than the hotel<br />

itself, the Pilchard serves up lunch and dinner, though it<br />

is advised to pre-book because it can only seat a limited<br />

number.<br />

The Pilchard has an impressive history of its own, with<br />

notorious smuggler Tom Crocker using it as his hideout<br />

in the 14th century. Unfortunately for Crocker, he was<br />

caught and shot on the inn’s doorstep by the authorities.<br />


At low tide, make the most of Bigbury Beach’s golden<br />

sand or try your hand at swimming and surfing.<br />

Alternatively, take a leisurely stroll around the island<br />

and hotel grounds, go for a dip in the island’s private<br />

outdoor mermaid pool or try your hand at a game of<br />

tennis. For those wishing to stay inside, treat yourself<br />

from a range of spa treatments or kick back and relax in<br />

the film room.<br />

The hotel also offers a snooker room, live music<br />

and ballroom dancing twice a week, and my personal<br />

favourite – a murder mystery night.<br />

If you’d like to venture further afield, Bigbury-on-Sea<br />

and the nearby towns of Salcombe and Kingsbridge are<br />

accessible by crossing the sand – but be sure to make it<br />

back before the tide rises!<br />

60 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Escape to the<br />


WIN<br />




lockdown, escaping to the<br />

coast has never been more<br />

sought after – and we’ve got<br />

just the ticket! Cornwall's newest and most<br />

desirable waterside destination, North Quay<br />

in Hayle is set within the striking scenery of the<br />

Hayle estuary, with World Heritage Status,<br />

a beautiful sandy beach and picturesque<br />

harbour. <strong>British</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> <strong>Journal</strong> has teamed up<br />

with Cornish Gems, to celebrate their brandnew<br />

exclusive property, North Quay Beach<br />

House, located perfectly within the quay’s<br />

Rue An Borthva, (the first phase of luxury<br />

homes) and offer you the chance to win a<br />

luxury three-night stay. The stunning mewsstyle<br />

townhouse offers superior luxury for up<br />

to six guests within three bedrooms, including<br />

two master suites with sea views; an open<br />

plan living, dining and kitchen space; and two<br />

balconies overlooking Hayle estuary, harbour<br />

and nature reserve. Pack up for a day trip<br />

and head to the stunning villages and towns<br />

nearby, including St Ives, Carbis Bay, Mousehole<br />

and many more. Shop at Hayle's local bakeries,<br />

ice cream parlours and curio shops. Put your<br />

state-of-the-art kitchen to good use with fresh<br />

Cornish produce, or relax on the sofas and<br />

enjoy the stunning interiors and views from the<br />

balconies. At high water the harbour comes<br />

alive with kayakers, paddleboarders, fishing and<br />

pleasure boats, which chug past your bird's-eye<br />

vantage point. At low water, sea birds flock<br />

to wade in the shallows. Looking across the<br />

water, the greens of West Cornwall Golf Club<br />

are visible, with the iconic church of Lelant on<br />

the skyline. To the front of North Quay Beach<br />

House, a waterside walkway leads under the<br />

ground floor balcony towards the mouth of<br />

the estuary and beyond, where a beachside<br />

coffee is never far away. Three miles of golden<br />

sand beach stretch from Hayle Towans to<br />

Godrevy and the prominent lighthouse. A<br />

surfer's paradise, a beach lover's playground<br />

and a walker's inspiration – however you like to<br />

holiday, this corner of Cornwall has it all.<br />




For your chance to win this<br />

extraordinary getaway simply<br />

enter via our website before the<br />

end of the year. The winner will be<br />

announced in our next issue and<br />

on our Instagram page.<br />


• Competition closing date is<br />

31 December <strong>2021</strong>.<br />

• Prize is for six guests maximum.<br />

• Prize is valid until 31 December 2022.<br />

• Stay dates restricted to short break<br />

periods, as per availability calendar.<br />

• Prize is non-refundable and no<br />

cash alternative is available.<br />

• No travel is included.<br />

• Cornish Gems booking T&Cs apply.<br />


britishtraveljournal.com/<br />

competitions<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 61

A SECRET<br />






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+44 (0) 1367 250 066<br />

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thelakesbyyoo.com @lakes_byyoo<br />

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<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 63

48 HOURS AT THE<br />


ESTATE<br />

With over 12,000 acres of nature walks, health and<br />

wellbeing treatment rooms, sustainable farming, new<br />

wellness experiences, and divine mouth-watering<br />

home-grown food, a stay at the Goodwood Hotel has<br />

more delights besides its renowned vintage cars, planes<br />

and world-famous festivals.<br />

Words | Jessica Way<br />

64 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured<br />

clockwise from<br />

left: Goodwood<br />

House;<br />

Goodwood<br />

House, eastern<br />

façade; view<br />

over the pond<br />

towards the<br />

private gardens;<br />

Tapestry<br />

Drawing Room;<br />

Yellow Drawing<br />

Room<br />

THREE MONTHS ago, say<br />

the words ‘Goodwood’, and I<br />

would immediately reminisce<br />

to previous years of the<br />

Revival, dressing up in my<br />

best ’60s style, sipping Champagne, and<br />

dancing with friends between the Spitfires<br />

and Mustangs. “Give me Goodwood on a<br />

summer’s day, and you can forget the rest<br />

of the world”, as described in the words of<br />

<strong>British</strong> racing driver, Roy Salvadori.<br />

There’s absolutely no doubt that events<br />

such as the Goodwood Revival and the<br />

Festival of Speed, enjoyed by over 150,000<br />

visitors each year (during pre-COVID<br />

times), have propelled Goodwood into<br />

the worldwide spotlight, under the welldeserved<br />

accolade as ‘England’s greatest<br />

sporting estate’.<br />

More recently, however, I have seen<br />

Goodwood in another light, entirely away<br />

from the big crowds and spotlight, more<br />

simply, as a beautiful escape away from<br />

the modern world. A place you can leave<br />

your worries behind and recharge with<br />

woodland walks between ancient oaks,<br />

ponder over beautiful paintings, and enjoy<br />

home-grown organic food. Life flows at a<br />

different pace at Goodwood.<br />

Goodwood has been home to the<br />

same family for over 300 years. Each<br />

generation has influenced the character and<br />

appearance of Goodwood, with much of<br />

the estate staying true to its original form.<br />

There is perhaps nowhere on the estate<br />

more true of this than at Goodwood<br />

House, surrounded in the beautiful<br />

landscape of the Beech Forest, between<br />

its majestic cedars with its unique copperdomed<br />

turrets and grand columned<br />

portico, which are as beautiful to behold<br />

as the paintings inside.<br />

The Front Hall of the house, built in<br />

1800, serves as the backdrop for three<br />

paintings by George Stubbs of various<br />

sporting scenes on the estate, including<br />

his famous ‘Racehorses Exercising at<br />

Goodwood’, which hangs over one of two<br />

marble chimneypieces in the Regency<br />

entrance.<br />

There’s also the beautiful<br />

Anthony Van Dyck portrait of<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 65

‘<br />

It was our first taste of the award-winning produce from Goodwood’s<br />

home farm – and the perfect introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood.<br />

’<br />

King Charles I and his family in the Ballroom, a<br />

fabulous reminder of its fascinating past. This<br />

magnificent room is where our wonderful 48<br />

hours at Goodwood began – with a delightful<br />

selection of cakes, pastries, and delicious finger<br />

sandwiches. (Afternoon tea is served in the<br />

Ballroom between 1pm and 4.30pm each day,<br />

with bookings made in advance). There is an<br />

option to book a house tour or combine it with<br />

a luxury cream tea, and both options are very<br />

reasonably priced.<br />

Often I find afternoon teas too sweet and<br />

sugary to enjoy, but not in this case. Each<br />

attractive, artistic tantalising tier was entirely<br />

delicious and comforting. I was surprised at<br />

how light and palatable it all was, from the<br />

Goodwood ham and mustard sandwiches,<br />

Pictured clockwise<br />

from left: afternoon<br />

tea at Goodwood<br />

House; Goodwood<br />

Hotel; Goodwood<br />

Hotel swimming<br />

pool; Goodwood<br />

Hotel reception;<br />

en-suite bedrooms<br />

Goodwood House scone with clotted cream<br />

and strawberry jam (jam first, of course!) to<br />

the coconut and mango pannacottas. It was<br />

our first taste of the award-winning produce<br />

from Goodwood’s home farm – and the perfect<br />

introduction to feeling at home at Goodwood.<br />

I savoured the final sips of my Darjeeling<br />

tea (from the foothills of the Himalayas) along<br />

with the last raspberry macaron (they serve a<br />

Macaron of the Month, which changes with the<br />

season) before being greeted by our lovely guide,<br />

ready to take us on a private tour of the house.<br />

Goodwood House is owned by the Duke<br />

and Duchess of Richmond, Charles Gordon-<br />

Lennox and Janet Astor, daughter of the third<br />

Viscount Astor. They married in 1991, and<br />

live in the West Wing of the house with their<br />

66 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

four children. Between set times, they allow visitors on<br />

guided tours to admire the grand State Apartments.<br />

It is a wonderful jaunt of one magnificent room after<br />

another; the south wing comprises the Ballroom, Card<br />

Room, Yellow Drawing Room, Red Hall, Egyptian Dining<br />

Room and Music Room. The outdoor colonnade, with an<br />

external view of the old house at one end and a glistening<br />

pond with a perfect view of one of their famous Cedar of<br />

Lebanon trees, then leads you to the back of the North<br />

Wing, Long Hall and Tapestry Drawing Room.<br />

Once checked into the hotel, our fluffy dressing gowns<br />

and slippers reminded us that some wellness time was<br />

ours for the taking – following a challenging year dealing<br />

with the pandemic, being able to take a dip, to sit in a<br />

sauna and to feel the tension melt away with the relaxing<br />

bubbles of the Jacuzzi, is a luxury not to be missed.<br />

Feeling fully relaxed, we spruced ourselves up for<br />

dinner and made our way to the hotel restaurant: Farmer,<br />

Butcher, Chef. In true Goodwood style, the restaurant<br />

is beautifully designed – memorabilia of its former<br />

hunting days and 300 years of farming line the walls and<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 67

Pictured left to right: aerial view of the<br />

Downs golf course; Goodwood home<br />

farm; private dining at Farmer, Butcher,<br />

Chef restaurant; interior of the Farmer,<br />

Butcher, Chef restaurant; Jessica relaxing<br />

in the hotel snug<br />

decorate the furnishings, in a style so countryside chic and<br />

luxuriously à la mode, it enters a league of its own.<br />

Goodwood has designer Cindy Leveson to thank for<br />

this pizzazz – her distinctive style and talent has sprinkled<br />

Goodwood magic throughout the hotel interior, from<br />

the cosy snug and rallying bar to the impactful decor in<br />

the restaurant. The detail is incredible, from the huge<br />

glass lightbulbs hanging from the ceiling and Christopher<br />

Howe chairs made out of Goodwood flags, to the pretty<br />

butterflies and old keys beautifully displayed in picture<br />

frames along the walls. Even our table was glass-topped,<br />

partitioned into several compartments of interesting old<br />

motoring and clock mechanics.<br />

The relevance of this remarkable history is understood<br />

and appreciated with each mouthful of delicious food,<br />

made from the finest home-grown ingredients and cooked<br />

to perfection. Dishes such as Spiced Rump South Down<br />

Lamb and Fillet of Newhaven Cod, enjoyed with a glass<br />

of (local vineyards) Gusbourne’s or Tinwood’s English<br />

Sparkling wine, makes it impossible not to order well.<br />

If you can’t decide, the chef will create a sharing board<br />

showcasing his various cuts and techniques, using all three<br />

of their delicious meats.<br />

I can thoroughly recommend the old-fashioned<br />

cheesecake for dessert, served with Goodwood’s home<br />

farm cream and local strawberries.<br />

The following morning we had a private golf lesson with<br />

golf professional Chris McDonnell at the Park course (one<br />

of Goodwood's two 18-hole golf courses on the estate),<br />

just a short walk from the hotel.<br />

Available as one of the Goodwood Academy<br />

experiences, the golf lessons are held with nationally<br />

acclaimed pros who offer their expertise to players<br />

of any level, from beginner to expert. Chris was an<br />

excellent teacher, and there was a fantastic feeling of<br />

accomplishment, even after just a few successful swings.<br />

We decided to enjoy lunch al fresco on the terrace at<br />

The Kennels, their exclusive members’ clubhouse, also<br />

open to hotel guests, with views across the other of their<br />

18-hole golf courses on the estate – The Downs, designed<br />

by five-time Open champion James Braid in 1914.<br />

There was no departing without a visit to their home<br />

farm dairy, followed by a visit to the farm shop for some of<br />

their beautiful deep-red Sussex organic beef to take home<br />

for a special Sunday roast.<br />

The Farm Manager has helped to build up an impressive<br />

customer list of exclusive restaurants and private members'<br />

clubs, and together with the Executive Chef and Master<br />

68 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com



—<br />

Butcher, has developed Goodwood's impressive 'farm to fork'<br />

sustainable food philosophy. I am also told about a series of new health<br />

and wellbeing experiences launching at Goodwood, to include a fiveday<br />

restorative retreat to help guests rebalance, revitalise and recharge.<br />

As we pull out of the driveway and begin to head home, an<br />

impressive convoy of classic two-seater motors, in regal blues,<br />

beautiful beiges, vibrant reds, and glorious greens, zips past,<br />

with glimpses of their equally stylish, seriously dapper drivers.<br />

It's a reminder that Goodwood is more than a hotel, more than<br />

a racecourse, and more than a countryside sporting estate.<br />

Goodwood is quintessentially English, a destination for members,<br />

and, under the first-class management of an exceptional family and<br />

magnificent team, also for everyone else to enjoy.<br />

Next time you visit, don't feel you need to make it on race day –<br />

because every day is a good day to visit Goodwood.<br />

Three-course dinner at Farmer, Butcher, Chef, overnight stay and<br />

breakfast at The Goodwood Bar & Grill, from £250 for two<br />

goodwood.com<br />

Goodwood Trees<br />

Goodwood's trees have proved to be an invaluable asset to<br />

the estate at times. Once an estimated 33,000 Beech trees<br />

were sold to cover Death Duties. Some of the oldest trees at<br />

Goodwood are the famous Cedars of Lebanon, planted in<br />

1761, at the request of the third Duke of Richmond – of the<br />

original 1000 planted, only a few of these trees remain.<br />

–<br />

Cricket Rules<br />

The rules written for a cricket match in 1727 between the<br />

2nd Duke of Richmond and Mr Brodrick are the oldest<br />

written set of rules in the world. You can see them on display<br />

in the Goodwood Archive.<br />

–<br />

Rewilding Projects<br />

Goodwood staff were involved in a huge woodland<br />

creation project in December 2019 – the largest of its<br />

type in the South of England. The ongoing scheme<br />

will eventually see 40 hectares of new plantations in<br />

12 locations, with over 78,000 trees arriving on the<br />

estate. They have also planted an extra 600 metres of<br />

hedgerow at Goodwood, and rewilded several sections<br />

of the 11,000 acres to support the local flora and fauna.<br />

–<br />

The artist Duke<br />

The Duke of Richmond, Charles Gordon-Lennox, led a very<br />

successful career as a high production still life and special<br />

effects photographer in London and continues his passion<br />

today (as Charles March). You can see some of his beautiful<br />

landscape photography around the estate. Since then, he<br />

has experimented with digital photography to produce highly<br />

evocative, impressionistic and abstract works that push the<br />

boundaries traditionally associated with photography.<br />

–<br />

Eight -sided masterplan<br />

Goodwood House looks like three sides of an octagon,<br />

and it was once believed the plan was intended to build<br />

the complete figure, but this has never been proved. It is<br />

not known what the intentions were when this somewhat<br />

picturesque shape was devised, but the layout certainly works<br />

perfectly for a private family home combined with grand<br />

public apartments and far-reaching views over the park.<br />

–<br />

Sustainable Farming<br />

Goodwood Home Farm is one of the largest lowland organic<br />

farms in the UK and has been fully organic since 1996.<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 69


70 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com


WHISKY<br />

In recent years England has begun to produce sparkling<br />

wines that rival those produced in Champagne. Now in<br />

the 2020s it's the turn of English distillers to show that they<br />

can compete with Scotland's most famous export<br />

Words | Adrian Mourby<br />

IN BRITAIN, whisky has strong associations with Scotland. So much so in<br />

fact that in the 19th century the word ‘Scotch’ came to mean whisky not<br />

only in neighbouring England but all over the <strong>British</strong> Empire. But that<br />

hegemony has begun to shift in the last 15 years. In 2006 there was only<br />

one whisky distillery in England. Now there are more than 30.<br />

England will never produce the big single malt guns like Laphroaig and<br />

Tallisker nor the internationally-famous Scottish blends like Johnny Walker<br />

and Famous Grouse but these days there are some wonderful artisanal<br />

distillers producing great idiosyncratic whiskies throughout England. These<br />

small distilleries have been set up all over the country, in Yorkshire and the<br />

Lake District, on the Suffolk and Norfolk coasts, and of course in London.<br />

Each pursues its own vision, sometimes even to the point of eccentricity, but<br />

all of them are producing great whiskies in small batches – and best of all you<br />

can visit and share in their enthusiasm.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 71

‘<br />

He had the help of his son Andrew, and advisor, Iain Henderson from Laphroaig,<br />

the only Scottish distillery to be by appointment to HRH Prince Charles...<br />

’<br />

English Whisky Company<br />

Any whisky tour of England has<br />

to start with the English Whisky<br />

Company in Roudham, Norfolk.<br />

It was here in 2006 that James<br />

Nelstrop and son Andrew, constructed<br />

St George’s, England's first whisky<br />

distillery to be built in over a century.<br />

The Nelstrop's come from a long<br />

line of English farmers who can be<br />

traced back to working the land in<br />

Yorkshire during the 14th century.<br />

It was on James's 60th birthday<br />

that he decided he wanted a new<br />

venture and chose to produce whisky.<br />

It was a bold move, but he had the<br />

help of his son Andrew, and advisor,<br />

Iain Henderson from Laphroaig,<br />

the only Scottish distillery to be by<br />

appointment to HRH Prince Charles.<br />

Norfolk is in East Anglia, which in<br />

James’ opinion is one of the few areas<br />

in England suitable for growing topquality<br />

malting barley, the essential<br />

ingredient in single malt whisky.<br />

The second vital ingredient – water<br />

– would come from a 160-foot bore<br />

hole that draws up water of purity and<br />

high mineral content in Roudham.<br />

With great confidence, the distillery<br />

chose to name its single malt The<br />

English. It now produces eight English<br />

single malts, each flavoured by the<br />

barrels in which the whisky matures.<br />

There is also a grain whisky series<br />

called The Norfolk which has a<br />

bowler-hatted seal on its label, a<br />

nod to the fact that the bowler hat<br />

was first produced for gamekeepers<br />

working at Holkham Hall, also in<br />

Norfolk. The complete range is<br />

available at the company’s spacious<br />

modern distillery and visitor centre,<br />

with its black clapboard exterior and<br />

cowled roof close to the Thetford<br />

Forest Park.<br />

72 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured previous page: St George's<br />

Distillery, Roundham, Norfolk<br />

Pictured clockwise from left: Adnams<br />

Copper House Distillery; East London<br />

Distillery's Andy Mooney carrying a cask;<br />

casks at the East London Distillery; Andrew<br />

Nelstrop, Chairman of The English Whisky<br />

Co who helped set up the business with his<br />

father, James<br />

Adnams<br />

Across the border in Suffolk, in the<br />

picture-perfect coastal village of<br />

Southwold, stands Adnams, which<br />

was originally founded in 1872 but<br />

as a brewery, not a distillery. The<br />

enterprise was set up by two Suffolk<br />

brothers, George and Ernest Adnams.<br />

In the 20th century their substantial<br />

brick-built factory produced huge<br />

amounts of ales and ciders for Suffolk<br />

and beyond.<br />

The building was a familiar site for<br />

visitors with its mechanical figure of<br />

‘Southwold Jack’ on its exterior. Jack’s<br />

job was intended to sound the hours<br />

by striking his axe against the metal<br />

bell that hung over him.<br />

Moving with the times, in 2010<br />

Adnams successfully challenged<br />

an old English law that prevented<br />

brewers from having a distillery on<br />

the same premises. This enabled the<br />

firm to build a new Copper House<br />

Distillery behind the old premises to<br />

make gin, vodka and whisky, all from<br />

the same locally sourced ingredients<br />

– Suffolk barley, rye, wheat, and oats<br />

– that go into Adnams beers.<br />

There are now three reasonably<br />

priced whiskies made on-site, a Single<br />

Malt, a Triple Malt (made with wheat,<br />

barley and oats) and a Rye Malt<br />

Whisky. All are aged in oak barrels<br />

and you can buy a sample pack of all<br />

three in 20cl bottles (£41.99) from the<br />

busy visitor centre.<br />

East London Distillery<br />

A very different whisky<br />

experience is on offer at the<br />

East London Distillery on Bow<br />

Wharf in Hackney. The building<br />

is a low, grey-painted former<br />

glue factory that faces on to the<br />

old Regent's Canal. The East<br />

London Liquor Company was<br />

founded here by former actor<br />

and bartender Alex Wolpert<br />

who stands for “Great spirits<br />

without the crafty bullshit.<br />

Everyone should have good<br />

booze for good prices from<br />

good people. It sounds radical,<br />

but it shouldn’t.”<br />

Since July 2014 Wolpert’s selfstyled<br />

People’s Drinks Company<br />

has been producing and<br />

importing a wide range of spirits,<br />

including gins, vodka, rum and<br />

whisky. Success came quickly. In<br />

its first year his team of five were<br />

producing 1,000 bottles of gin a<br />

month for East London bars and<br />

restaurants.<br />

Because of regulations,<br />

whisky cannot be released for<br />

three years, but today there is an<br />

East London Wheat Whisky, an East<br />

London Rye, and a new East London<br />

Blend, which is a cross-Atlantic<br />

collaboration with the Bourbon<br />

produced by Sonoma Distilling<br />

Company in California. Wolpert<br />

describes the blend as “chock-full of<br />

sweet corn, brandy-soaked cherries,<br />

fresh grass, and not for the fainthearted.”<br />

The East London Distillery is proud<br />

that its neighbours are “canalside<br />

warehouses and old school boozers”<br />

and indeed the exposed brickwork<br />

of the distillery’s interior gives it an<br />

edginess that matches its claim to<br />

serve “kick-ass cocktails”.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 73

Bimber<br />

Twelve miles to the west, on the<br />

other side of London, is another<br />

remarkable distillery, set up by<br />

two long-term Polish immigrants<br />

Dariusz Plazewski and Ewelina<br />

Chruszczyk. Bimber is the Polish<br />

word for ‘moonshine’ or illegally<br />

distilled spirits. It’s also the name the<br />

couple chose for their new distillery,<br />

tucked away in the unassuming<br />

Park Royal industrial estate.<br />

Bimber brings to <strong>British</strong> whisky<br />

the skills perfected over centuries<br />

by Polish moonshiners, but it<br />

applies them legally. The distillery<br />

laid down its first casks in May<br />

2016 and released the inaugural<br />

single malt whisky, known as The<br />

First just over three years later. All<br />

1,000 hand-numbered bottles sold<br />

out within three hours. Bimber puts<br />

its success down to handcrafted<br />

traditional techniques and the<br />

founders’ passion for single malt<br />

whisky.<br />

The barley used here is grown on<br />

a single farm near Basingstoke and<br />

traditionally dried in Warminster<br />

Maltings. It’s then hand-mashed<br />

and fermented slowly for seven days<br />

in wooden washbacks at Bimber.<br />

These washbacks were handmade<br />

by the company’s own coopers.<br />

This highly artisanal approach<br />

continues with direct fire being used<br />

to heat unusually small copper<br />

pot stills. Absolutely no computers<br />

come near the production process.<br />

Everything is based on the artisanal<br />

human senses of smell, taste and<br />

even touch.<br />

After maturing in hand-selected<br />

casks – charred oak, bourbon,<br />

sherry and oloroso – this precious<br />

and reassuringly expensive whisky is<br />

bottled on-site. As far as is possible<br />

today, this is how whisky might have<br />

been made centuries ago.<br />

The Oxford Artisan Distillery<br />

Fifty miles north of Bimber along<br />

the A40 stands The Oxford Artisan<br />

Distillery, known locally as TOAD.<br />

TOAD is another new venture and<br />

one that burst on the market in 2017<br />

with an excellent Oxford Dry Gin that<br />

used a picture of Mr Toad himself (as<br />

drawn by Ernest Shepard) on its label.<br />

TOAD is the first legal distillery<br />

in Oxford and occupies a charming<br />

position in tatty old farm buildings<br />

at the top of Headington Hill. Its<br />

founder, Tom Nicolson was inspired<br />

to make a commitment to the ‘grainto-glass’<br />

ethos of handcrafting gin,<br />

vodka and spirit of rye using grain<br />

specially grown for the distillery. To<br />

this end, the archaeo-botanist John<br />

Letts helped TOAD find and plant<br />

medieval heritage grains that were<br />

commonplace in England before the<br />

rise of industrialised agriculture.<br />

In keeping with its self-consciously<br />

eccentric, not to say theatrical style,<br />

TOAD’s master distiller Cory Mason<br />

commissioned two very special<br />

steam-punk stills, named Nautilus<br />

and Nemo, like something out of Jules<br />

Verne, to do the work. These are now<br />

producing TOAD’s first whisky. It’s<br />

actually a pure rye whisky that costs<br />

£75 a bottle, the most expensive<br />

product from this ambitious distillery.<br />

Rye is thought by many to be the new<br />

direction for whisky in the 2020s. It<br />

has a distinctive taste and makes for<br />

great cocktails.<br />

A visit to TOAD is always fun.<br />

Despite the company’s huge success<br />

they give the impression they’re a<br />

bunch of guys who like putting spirits<br />

together to see what happens.<br />

74 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured clockwise from left: Casks at the Bimber Distillery; Farm grain;<br />

Oxford Rye whisky; Nemo – one of the stills inside The Oxford Artisan Distillery;<br />

Stills inside the Bimber Distillery<br />

‘<br />

A visit to TOAD is always fun. Despite the company’s huge success they<br />

give the impression they’re a bunch of guys who like putting spirits together<br />

to see what happens.<br />

’<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 75

Pictured left to right: Cotswolds Distillery;<br />

Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky<br />

‘<br />

Scotland will always have the gravitas... but it’s clear that English whisky is doing<br />

things the Scots have never dreamt of... and that the English are coming.<br />

’<br />

Cotswolds Distillery<br />

A slicker – but equally welcoming<br />

– operation is at the Cotswolds<br />

Distillery, just south of Stratfordupon-Avon.<br />

Dan Szor who built the distillery<br />

is a New Yorker who made a small<br />

fortune in the City of London and<br />

dearly wanted to create whisky from<br />

all those barley fields surrounding<br />

his Cotswold home. So in 2014 he<br />

opened this distillery, and its gin<br />

– with its lovely hints of lavender –<br />

became a quick success. Gin is a<br />

favourite start-up product for whisky<br />

producers because it provides a quick<br />

turnaround on investment.<br />

This distillery is located in idyllic<br />

countryside in a new building<br />

constructed of local honey-coloured<br />

stone and richly seasoned wood.<br />

It looks like a beautifully designed<br />

barn conversion. There is a shop and<br />

café, and a seductive tasting room<br />

with leather sofas that makes you feel<br />

that you’re staying in the spacious<br />

country cottage of a very wealthy<br />

friend. No expense has been spared.<br />

Upstairs are two more rooms, one for<br />

serious whisky tasting and one for gin.<br />

Cotswolds Single Malt Whisky is now<br />

available in several editions. There is<br />

the Single Malt, the Founder’s Choice,<br />

three single malts from flavoured casks<br />

– peated, sherry and Sauternes – and<br />

Lord Mayor's Single Reserve, which<br />

was blended for the 691st Lord Mayor<br />

of London, Peter Estlin who has been<br />

a keen supporter of the Cotswolds<br />

Distillery from its inception.<br />

Scotland will always have the<br />

gravitas and will continue to dominate<br />

the market but it’s clear that English<br />

whisky is doing things the Scots have<br />

never dreamt of. Later this year an<br />

English Guild of Distillers will be<br />

launched to create a regulatory body<br />

to maintain quality and decide what<br />

we actually mean when we talk of an<br />

English Scotch. Whatever it decides in<br />

the world of whisky there is no doubt<br />

that the English are coming.<br />


Filey Bay Whisky<br />

Yorkshire's first ever single malt whisky is<br />

created with 100% homegrown barley<br />

on the Hunmanby coast, at the Spirit<br />

of Yorkshire Distillery. There are views<br />

of beautiful Filey Bay from the distillery,<br />

and a unique field-to-bottle process is used.<br />

spiritofyorkshire.com<br />

And if you’re going to Scotland...<br />

Johnnie Walker Princes Street<br />

In Edinburgh a new eight-floor visitor<br />

experience has opened celebrating the<br />

world's best-selling Scotch. Johnnie<br />

Walker is a blended whisky dating<br />

from 1820. Scottish blends have<br />

been slightly overlooked since the<br />

meteoric rise of Single Malts at the<br />

end of the 20th century. But not any<br />

more. Johnnie Walker Princes Street is<br />

crowned by two superb rooftop bars –<br />

the Explorers' Bothy (for whisky-tasting<br />

experiences) and the 1820 Cocktail Bar<br />

(for food pairings).<br />

johnniewalker.com<br />

76 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Iconic architecture, rich<br />

heritage, exquisite cocktails<br />

In the heart of Hampshire just 20 minutes from Winchester and the M4<br />

Bombay Sapphire Distillery | Whitchurch | Hampshire<br />

Hello@bombaysapphire.com | 01256 890090<br />


Get 10% off your Discovery booking using the code: BTJ10 (until 31/12/21)


CITIES<br />


This is the ideal time to visit one of our great cities. The summer<br />

crowds have dispersed and there’s always a cute café, diverting shop<br />

or fascinating museum beckoning you in, should the weather turn<br />

Words | Emma O’Reilly<br />


of a city. From boat-lined canals<br />

to grand palaces and sweeping<br />

countryside, Britain’s cities and their<br />

surrounding areas are packed with romantic<br />

charm, culture and history, offering something<br />

new and exciting to discover at every turn.<br />

So if a walk through London’s ‘Little Venice’<br />

or exploring ‘Mr Darcy’s’ grand estate near<br />

Manchester sound like dream getaways, here’s<br />

how to add a touch of enchantment to future<br />

city stays, whether exploring by foot, bike or on<br />

the water.<br />

London’s canals and open-air theatres<br />

Discover the capital’s tranquil side with an<br />

atmospheric autumnal walk along Regent’s<br />

Canal, just north of Paddington.<br />

This nine-mile canal-side walk starts in<br />

picturesque Little Venice, continues past the<br />

historic locks to Camden Town and finishes<br />

in London Docklands. For some laid-back<br />

romance you could explore Regent’s Canal<br />

by boat. Options include Jason’s Trip, which<br />

has been delighting visitors since 1951, passing<br />

sights such as Regent’s Park, Cumberland<br />

Basin and Primrose Hill along the way.<br />

78 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured clockwise from left:<br />

St Paul's cathedral; smallcar<br />

BIGCITY fleet of restored classic<br />

Mini Coopers; Glass atrium at<br />

NoMad Hotel London; Trafalgar<br />

Square; The National Gallery<br />

Or, book onto a quirkier walking tour to get under<br />

the skin of the city – an eating or cultural tour around<br />

Brick Lane and Spitalfields, one with a local architect<br />

around some of London’s more interesting buildings,<br />

a Sherlock Holmes or a Brit Movie tour, for example.<br />

With smallcarBIGCITY you can even enjoy a themed<br />

driving tour of your choice in a Classic Mini Cooper.<br />

New cultural highlights for <strong>2021</strong> include the Alice:<br />

Curiouser and Curiouser exhibition at the V&A (until<br />

31 December <strong>2021</strong>) and the world’s largest touring<br />

exhibition of Banksy artworks is in the West End<br />

(until 21 November). As night falls, head to the<br />

award-winning Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre,<br />

with performances of classic plays, including Romeo<br />

& Juliet and Carousel (until 30 September).<br />

Our top tip: Indulge in afternoon tea – whether you<br />

go glam at The Ritz or hip at Sketch.<br />

Stay at: NoMad London, formerly Bow Street<br />

Magistrates Court, in Covent Garden,<br />

launched in the spring. We love the spectacular<br />

landscaped glass atrium used for dining.<br />

Doubles from £383 per night, room only<br />

thenomadhotel.com<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 79

Brighton’s Royal Pavilion and Country Park<br />

Brighton is packed with romantic landmarks, many of which<br />

reveal the region’s royal connections. Future explorers can<br />

revel in the grandeur of the Royal Pavilion. Built in the 18th<br />

century for King George IV, it was subsequently used by<br />

King William IV and finally Queen Victoria. A Brighton<br />

institution, it is known as a beacon of luxury, awash with<br />

opulent treasures and topped with majestic domes. Visitors<br />

longing to explore this regal home can enjoy a virtual tour<br />

of the Royal Pavilion, before booking the real thing. The<br />

palace is currently furnished with over 120 remarkable<br />

decorative works of art on loan from Her Majesty the<br />

Queen. Originally commissioned by the Prince Regent, the<br />

items have been relocated from Buckingham Palace and<br />

reunited in their former home until January 2022.<br />

Our top tip: Longing for the great outdoors? Why not<br />

experience the romantic landscapes of Seven Sisters<br />

Country Park, part of the South Downs National Park.<br />

Marvel at the sprawling white cliffs, winding waterways<br />

and unspoilt grasslands.<br />

Stay at: Artist Residence, a hotel encapsulating the<br />

spirit of a town into one building; creative, bohemian and<br />

downright eccentric. The 24-bedroom townhouse is at the<br />

head of Regency Square and each room is a riot of original<br />

artwork and local character. Doubles from £255<br />

artistresidence.co.uk<br />

Manchester’s Gothic library and grand estate<br />

Known for its impressive architecture, independent shops<br />

and trendy cafés, Manchester's buzzy metropolis has<br />

plenty of entertainment. Culture vultures and rain dodgers<br />

will enjoy the dedicated fashion section, launching in<br />

November, at Manchester Art Gallery. The first exhibition is<br />

on ‘dandy’ style (attention, Bridgerton fans).<br />

More creative inspiration is on offer in the city’s Northern<br />

Quarter, crammed with independent clothes, jewellery and<br />

craft shops (don’t miss the multi-floored Affleck’s Palace),<br />

record stores, cafés and bars.<br />

Pictured clockwise from above: Brighton’s Royal Pavilion;<br />

Manchester's Northern Quarter street art; Hallé St Peter’s,<br />

Ancoats, in Manchester's Northern Quarter<br />

80 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

OF<br />

LONDON<br />


OF<br />



CAR<br />


TOURS<br />


LONDON<br />

OF<br />




Private,<br />

chauffeur Private,<br />

driven<br />

chauffeur driven<br />

Mini Mini Coopers<br />

Coopers<br />

Bespoke Prices start from<br />

tailor-made<br />

Bespoke Prices Prices £18 start start per from person<br />

from<br />

tailor-made £18 £18 per person<br />

person<br />

based on three people per car<br />

based on three people per car<br />

trips<br />

trips<br />

based sharing on three a 30 people minute per experience car<br />

sharing sharing a 30 minute a 30 experience<br />

minute experience<br />

smallcarBIGCITY.com info@smallcarbigcity.com +44 207 839 6737<br />

smallcarBIGCITY.com Private,<br />

info@smallcarbigcity.com Bespoke<br />

+44 Prices 207 207 839 start 839 6737 from 6737<br />

chauffeur driven tailor-made £18 per person<br />

based on three people per car<br />

Mini Coopers trips<br />

sharing a 30 minute experience<br />

The<br />

ROYAL<br />


Call us on 03000 290901<br />

info@rpmt.org.uk<br />

www.brightonmuseums.org.uk<br />

smallcarBIGCITY.com info@smallcarbigcity.com +44 207 839 6737<br />

eat explore experience<br />

Visit Exeter for seriously stylish shops, a diverse cultural scene and top eateries<br />

serving the best of Devon’s food and drink. Add 2,000 years of history into<br />

the mix and it’s easy to see why everyone’s talking about Exeter!<br />



Our top tip: Take time to visit Lyme Park, an Italianate<br />

palace that became Mr Darcy’s grand residence in the<br />

BBC’s adaptation of Pride and Prejudice, just 20 miles<br />

south of the city centre.<br />

The 1,400-acre estate is home to a large herd of deer,<br />

a lake and a fragrant rose garden. Jane Austen fans can<br />

also enjoy an atmospheric Pemberley walk, which takes in<br />

several picturesque filming locations.<br />

There's also the new RHS Garden Bridgewater just<br />

outside the city – at 154 acres it’s Europe’s largest garden<br />

project, or the brand new ‘I’m a Celebrity…Jungle Challenge’<br />

at MediaCityUK, with its fun challenges and trials.<br />

Stay at: Be one of the first to stay at the 10-floor Resident<br />

Hotel (formerly Nadler Hotels) within the brand new St<br />

John's Place development – an enormous neighbourhood<br />

on the former site of Granada Studios, incorporating<br />

residential homes, world-class hotels, a work space,<br />

intimate streets, lively courtyards and The Factory (billed<br />

as the North of England’s new flagship cultural venue)<br />

although the date of opening is still uncertain.<br />

There's also Brewdog’s new hotel, DogHouse, the world’s<br />

first craft beer hotel. Doubles from £150 per night, including<br />

draft beer tap and beer fridge in shower.<br />

residenthotels.com; stjohnsmanchester.com; brewdog.com<br />

Wellness in Winchester<br />

This well-heeled little place has all the ingredients for a<br />

wonderful weekend break. Winchester does tradition<br />

well, from its cavernous cathedral to its highly regarded<br />

independent school, Winchester College. History oozes<br />

from many other buildings. The Westgate Museum details<br />

the area’s Tudor and Stuart history and is housed in the last<br />

remaining medieval gateway into the city. The Great Hall,<br />

the only remaining part of Winchester Castle, is home to<br />

King Arthur’s legendary Round Table.<br />

Just outside the city are a slew of stately homes, as is Jane<br />

Austen’s House in Chawton. History with a modern twist<br />

comes courtesy of a former silk mill, newly opened as Inn the<br />

Park in Winchester’s Abbey Gardens. The space combines an<br />

open grill restaurant, bar, café and wine room.<br />

Our top tip: Jane Austen fans can also do a guided tour of<br />

Jane Austen’s Winchester.<br />

Stay at: Lainston House Hotel, a 17th-century mansion<br />

Exclusive Hotel, offering tennis, fishing and falconry.<br />

Prices from £176 per room, per night.<br />

Or for location (walking distance of the city centre) you can't<br />

beat the very first Hotel du Vin, which is still providing luxury<br />

at a good price. Doubles from £99 per night, room only.<br />

exclusive.co.uk; hotelduvin.com<br />

82 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured clockwise<br />

from left: Manchester's<br />

Lyme Park; Inn the Park<br />

at Winchester’s Abbey<br />

Gardens; Mural at 2-Tone<br />

Village, Coventry Music<br />

Museum, Coventry<br />

City Culture<br />

Coventry City of Culture<br />

You won’t mind getting sent here, especially as Coventry<br />

celebrates being UK City of Culture <strong>2021</strong> with art exhibitions<br />

and cultural events taking place throughout the year. Plus,<br />

look out out for The Show Windows – ambitious window<br />

installations designed by local architects – and specially<br />

commissioned street art. At the Herbert Art Gallery &<br />

Museum, a new exhibition ‘Hyper-Possible’ runs from<br />

October. Also here are paintings of bold local lass, Lady<br />

Godiva (a statue of her naked on a horse is on the street<br />

nearby). Coventry’s medieval cathedral was left devastated<br />

after World War II and a beautiful 20th-century replacement<br />

with abstract stained-glass windows sits alongside. It’s typical<br />

of the city, which was heavily bombed. Expect brutalist car<br />

parks alongside Tudor cottages – a heavenly hotchpotch.<br />

Our top tip: Coventry Music Museum (including the<br />

2-Tone Village) is a must-visit for music fans<br />

Stay at: The Telegraph Hotel, which opened in May<br />

is a conversion of the local newspaper offices.<br />

Doubles from £67 per night, room only.<br />

à<br />

telegraph-hotel.com<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 83

St David’s<br />

How can a village become a city? When it has a cathedral<br />

of course and the one in St David’s is large, given the tiny<br />

population. It’s a charming place, with historic sites, shops<br />

and restaurants – including the UK’s first insect restaurant,<br />

Grub Kitchen. There are also alternatives for those with<br />

more conventional appetites. It’s easy to potter away<br />

for many an hour, but what’s on the doorstep is worth<br />

exploring. St David’s is on the Pembrokeshire Peninsula,<br />

with magnificent coastline all around. In autumn and<br />

winter you’ll have it mostly to yourself for windswept walks<br />

or horse riding. Or why not wrap up in a wetsuit for some<br />

winter surfing?<br />

Stay at: Twr y Felin – Wales’ first contemporary art hotel<br />

has just doubled in size. New rooms have balconies with<br />

views over St Bride’s Bay. Doubles from £200 per night.<br />

twryfelinhotel.com<br />

Our top tip: The night sky is often incredible in west Wales.<br />

If staying at Twr y Felin book a Star Gazing Hamper, which<br />

includes binoculars, torches, a constellations guidebook,<br />

camping chairs and a thermos of ‘tiddly’ hot chocolate.<br />

A Royal weekend in Edinburgh<br />

The place to start is Edinburgh Castle, the former royal<br />

residence and military base which sits atop Castle Rock.<br />

There’s lots to see inside and outside and there’s the bonus<br />

of 360-degree city views. Back in the Old Town, walk The<br />

Royal Mile to another regal residence, Holyrood House.<br />

The Royal Yacht Britannia, moored up in Leith, was<br />

the holiday home to the Queen for many years. Today it’s<br />

one of the best museums in the UK – and don't miss our<br />

competition to win tickets and a Champagne lunch on<br />

board for two (britishtraveljournal.com/competitions). Tea<br />

and scones in the onboard tearoom is a must.<br />

You might also like to book a table at nearby Martin<br />

Wishart or The Kitchin, both Michelin-starred. By night,<br />

there are bars aplenty, and it would be rude not to try the<br />

local tipple at Whiski Rooms or The Scotch Whisky Society<br />

– choose from hundreds of rare single and blended malts<br />

and order some food to soak it all up.<br />

Our top tip: Try to be at Edinburgh Castle for the one<br />

o’clock gun salute.<br />

Stay at: The new Moxy Edinburgh Fountainbridge. It’s<br />

on the site of a famous brewery and has playful, slightly<br />

irreverent interiors plus a rooftop bar with great views.<br />

Doubles from £66 per night.<br />

marriott.com<br />

84 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Durham’s cathedral and rowing boats<br />

The city has one of the UK’s most impressive cathedrals,<br />

perched imposingly over the River Wear. See it from the<br />

outside, inside and the top (brave the 137 steps up the<br />

Northwest Tower for worth-it views).<br />

New this autumn is Museum of the Moon, a giant<br />

seven-metre sculpture that will hang from the ceiling of the<br />

cathedral, with atmospheric accompanying music.<br />

You can hire rowing boats on the river until the end of<br />

September but most visitors are content to just wander the<br />

cobbled streets and do like the uni students by hanging<br />

out in the bars and cafés. Or, book in for some fine dining<br />

at Finnbars or The Cellar Door. There’s more nighttime<br />

entertainment during Lumiere Durham (18–21 November)<br />

with fantastical light installations and projections all over the<br />

city. It’s a great time to visit.<br />

Our top tip: Go for a yomp in the Durham Dales to see the<br />

spectacular High Force waterfall.<br />

Stay at: Hotel Indigo combines Victorian features with slick<br />

modern facilities. Doubles from £125 per night.<br />

hotelindigo.com<br />

Oxford’s colleges and museums<br />

The city of ‘dreaming spires’ is famed for its illustrious<br />

university. The colleges with their quads, cloisters and<br />

gardens are mostly open to the public. Other amazing<br />

university buildings include The Bodleian Libraries –<br />

such as the circular, neoclassical Radcliffe Camera<br />

and Duke Humfrey’s Library, which doubled as the<br />

Hogwarts Library in the Harry Potter films.<br />

Oxford is crammed with museums. Favourites<br />

include the Ashmolean, with everything from Egyptian<br />

mummies to modern art. Then there's The Pitt Rivers<br />

Museum: a quirky collection of treasures from around<br />

the world collected by one man on his travels.<br />

Our top tip: Don’t miss the chance to hang out in a<br />

studenty waterhole. J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis used<br />

to enjoy pints together at the Eagle & Child.<br />

Stay at: The Randolph Hotel by Graduate – this<br />

grande dame of a hotel reopened in the summer under<br />

new ownership and with a ‘new old’ look.<br />

Doubles from £225 per night, bed and breakfast.<br />

graduatehotels.com<br />

Pictured clockwise<br />

from bottom left:<br />

Pembrokeshire<br />

Peninsula; Twr y<br />

Felin Hotel; The<br />

Royal Yacht<br />

Britannia;<br />

Edinburgh Castle;<br />

The Randolph Hotel;<br />

Luke Jerram’s<br />

Museum of the<br />

Moon illuminates<br />

the nave at Ely<br />

Cathedral – and<br />

will be at Durham<br />

Cathedral this<br />

September <strong>2021</strong><br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 85

48 HOURS IN...<br />

EXETER<br />

Thought holidays to Devon were mostly about<br />

seafood and beaches? Think again… it’s time to<br />

leave behind the beach towels and flip flops and<br />

prepare for a cultural citybreak like no other. Exeter<br />

might be small, but it is perfectly formed, with worldclass<br />

museums, excellent food, beautiful new hotels,<br />

historic streets, and picturesque waterways...<br />

Words | Jessica Way<br />

IT'S A GREAT FEELING to visit one of the UK's most up-and-coming cities as though you<br />

are just slightly ahead of the curve, discovering valuable insights as if somehow sneaking<br />

in there just before everyone else. That’s exactly how I felt touring and speaking to the<br />

locals on my recent weekend city break to Exeter. You've most probably travelled past this<br />

beautiful historic city (pre-dating the arrival of the Romans in AD 50) or passed through it<br />

while en-route to Devon and Cornwall, but perhaps dismissed it as your final destination?<br />

Hopefully, my description of time spent in this eco-conscious re-imagined city will encourage<br />

you to reconsider this as a wonderful city break with great food, culture and varied attractions.<br />

And it would seem I am not alone in my enthusiasm for the city – stylish brands, including<br />

glamorous restaurant chain The Ivy and luxury hotel chain IHG, have moved in too. Opposite<br />

the Cathedral overlooking the green, The Ivy has just opened following a refurbishment to<br />

Exeter’s landmark City Bank; it is the newest Ivy and first of its kind in Devon and Cornwall.<br />

Nearby, luxury hotel brand IHG has announced plans to open Hotel Indigo Exeter, complete<br />

with an urban spa and rooftop bar and lounge, housed in the former House of Fraser<br />

department store on the city’s High Street (opposite The White Company store).<br />

Exeter is also home to Royal Clarence Hotel, described as England's oldest hotel. Located in<br />

Cathedral Yard, sadly this Grade-II listed, 53-bedroom hotel was severely damaged in a fire just<br />

over five years ago – the property has since been under the ownership of Andrew Brownsword<br />

Hotels and now James Brent of South West Lifestyle Brands, who are said to be undertaking<br />

restoration work to open a 74-bedroom hotel with reconstructed façades.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 87

Pictured clockwise from bottom left: The quaint historic estuary port<br />

of Topsham; views from the Exeter Cathedral rooftop guided tour;<br />

Exeter Cathedral, properly known as the Cathedral Church of Saint<br />

Peter; Jessica riding an e-bike through Exeter's historic Cathedral Yard;<br />

Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street<br />

Exeter is where Chris Martin from Coldplay was born, attending<br />

the city’s oldest school, Exeter Cathedral School while finding his<br />

passion for music, and where Harry Potter author JK Rowling went<br />

to University – one of the UK's elite Russell Group universities. Rugby<br />

fans will of course know all about the famous Exeter Chiefs, and<br />

might want to arrange a trip around 25 September this year, to watch<br />

them take on Northampton Saints in an English Premiership fixture.<br />

Foodies will love the annual Exeter Festival of South West Food &<br />

Drink, a real highlight in the year, although sadly postponed in <strong>2021</strong><br />

due to the pandemic, but it plans to be back on next spring.<br />

Whether visiting for the festive season (Exeter Cathedral<br />

Christmas Market will be running 18 November–18 December) or as a<br />

city break avoiding the crowded coastlines during the summer, Exeter<br />

is certain not to disappoint – I hope you enjoy my highlights...<br />

DAY ONE<br />

Exeter is compact, revolving around the Cathedral and green in<br />

the heart of the city: Shops from the popular big names are in the<br />

neighbouring High Street and Princesshay precinct. The remains of the<br />

Medieval city walls, originally built by the Romans, and pretty cobbled<br />

streets, lead to the independent boutiques and trendy coffee shops in<br />

and around Gandy Street and the West Quarter.<br />

Our visit coincided with the Cathedral restarting their rooftop<br />

guided tours, and Graham our steward couldn't have been a better<br />

tour host. The views over the city are incredible, but equally the<br />

behind-the-scenes architecture – from the flying buttress bridging to<br />

the wooden infrastructure inside the longest uninterrupted vaulted<br />

medieval ceiling in Europe – was fascinating.<br />

We wandered across to the Cathedral Yard, where we enjoyed<br />

an al fresco lunch with views of the Cathedral at Eat on the Green.<br />

Previously this independently owned restaurant (by local Ben<br />

Mangan) was called Tea on the Green, but there is much more to his<br />

impressive, locally sourced menu than the previous name suggests –<br />

though don’t worry, Devon Cream Teas are still available!<br />

It was a pleasure to meet Ben, a proud father of twins who also<br />

attended Exeter Cathedral School. He told us how his meat comes<br />

from the local Hele Farm (so close you can see it from the upstairs<br />

window), his beers and ciders from Devon and Cornwall brewers, and<br />

how pleased he was that we were highlighting Exeter.<br />

“It really doesn’t get enough recognition, and is such a brilliant<br />

city. There’s a great atmosphere and sense of community here<br />

in Exeter," he said, crediting the many successful independent<br />

businesses, and the acceptance and togetherness of students and<br />

locals living and thriving together.<br />

88 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

‘<br />

For curious travellers with a desire for<br />

self-guided exploration, electric bike<br />

hire is just brilliant – especially in Exeter<br />

where there are quite a few hills!<br />

’<br />

Following a delicious Waldorf salad and passion fruit smoothie,<br />

it was time to say a warm farewell and continue with our sightseeing<br />

adventures. Just a short walk away to the Civic Centre and we hired<br />

‘on-demand’ e-bikes (co-bikes.co.uk) – a game-changer for cities<br />

like Exeter to attract tourists. For curious travellers with a desire for<br />

self-guided exploration, electric bike hire is just brilliant – especially in<br />

Exeter where there are quite a few hills!<br />

The app is super easy to use, you unlock your bike with a code<br />

sent to your phone, pay by the hour and you don’t even have to return<br />

the bike to the station you collect it from – there are stops across the<br />

city, including at the two central train stations (Exeter St David’s and<br />

Exeter Central), Topsham and across the road from Exeter Works in<br />

Dix’s Field. It has also been made as safe as possible, with many cycle<br />

lanes, signage and traffic lights for cyclists throughout the city – which<br />

is not too big and daunting to navigate.<br />

We spent a lovely afternoon in Topsham, a beautiful estuary town<br />

on the River Exe, with a rich maritime history. Visit Topsham Museum,<br />

housed in an elegant 17th-century Dutch-style merchant house, to<br />

find out more about the history of the town, or enjoy a glass of wine<br />

at one of the pubs overlooking the boats and paddleboarders before<br />

dinner, or watch the sunset from the famous Goat Walk.<br />

For dinner, we visited Harry's Restaurant in Longbrook Street. This<br />

was a special highlight of our trip – as well as serving delicious food,<br />

Harry’s has a really great backstory. The architecture and interiors are<br />

beautiful – the property was formerly ‘Harry Hems’, a 19th-century<br />

architectural sculptors’ workshop (framed black-and-white photos of<br />

the historic building and workshop are displayed on the old red brick<br />

Gothic-style interior walls) that dates back to 1883.<br />

Following a renovation a couple of years ago, the interiors are<br />

sublime. Luxurious and modern, it’s more trendy Mayfair than busy<br />

Exeter – think: dark green and burnt oranges, regal leather sofas,<br />

tongue and groove panelling, parquet flooring, soft grey blankets,<br />

Cowshed toiletries, an abundance of hanging plants and elegantly<br />

dressed tables.<br />

Simon and Annette Pounds opened the restaurant in 1993.<br />

Daughter, Samantha Pounds, took over the running of the business<br />

and is now at the helm. All four of her daughters (Phoebe, Zoe,<br />

Tigerlily and India) work alongside her, while also juggling successful<br />

careers, including in law and the Army. We were served by Amy, an<br />

Australian and close family friend of the Pounds. She was fantastic<br />

and clearly passionate about the restaurant. She told us the team<br />

were “inseparable” and once included <strong>British</strong> singer-songwriter Will<br />

Young (before he won Pop Idol).<br />

Menu highlights include a mouthwatering selection of dryaged<br />

steaks sourced from local suppliers, Darts Farm Butchers,<br />

locally caught fish of the day and Devon crab linguine. I opted for<br />

their toasted brioche lobster roll and it was absolutely delightful.<br />

Elderflower sorbet completed the experience and it was time to get<br />

some rest, ready for the next day.<br />

We were thrilled with a Deluxe room at Hotel du Vin Exeter, a city<br />

oasis within walking distance of both the Cathedral and Quay. The<br />

grand 19th-century building formerly housed the West of England Eye<br />

Hospital and has beautifully landscaped historic walled gardens with<br />

a circular lawn, an outdoor swimming pool, spa and contemporary<br />

bedroom decor – an ideal base for exploring the city.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 89

DAY TWO<br />

Feeling more at home with the city centre we decided to head down<br />

to Exeter’s waterfront quay for a day by the river. We made our<br />

way down Stepcote Hill, Exeter’s oldest surviving street, passing<br />

the pretty half-timbered houses. At the bottom on West Street<br />

you’ll be greeted by the curiosity that is The House that Moved – a<br />

fascinating three-storey timber-framed merchant's house, which<br />

quite literally was moved from its original home at the corner of<br />

Edmund Street and Frog Street. Also in this area is St Mary Steps<br />

Church, of 12th-century origin with an amazing early-17th-century<br />

Matthew the Miller clock with figures that strike the hour.<br />

At the quayside there are many places to grab a coffee or to<br />

browse quirky independent shops for a gift to take home. Feeling<br />

ready for an adventure, we hired some stand-up paddleboards from<br />

AS Watersports (the place to go for kayaks, canoes, paddleboards<br />

and more). In addition to the hire, they offer tuition and have a huge<br />

showroom filled with kayaks and equipment for sale – everything<br />

you need to get on the water and experience watersports.<br />

For lunch, we headed to On the Waterfront – famous for their<br />

dustbin-lid pizzas, they also serve great tapas and offer a really<br />

good selection of locally sourced beers, wines and spirits.<br />

Having been so impressed with our e-bikes from the day<br />

before we decided to go for a bike ride along the river, passing<br />

the Climbing Centre on Exeter Quay – the South West's largest,<br />

dedicated indoor climbing wall. Had there been time and energy left<br />

in our legs we definitely would have stopped for a quick bouldering<br />

session. We soon reached the Double Locks traditional country pub<br />

located on the banks of the 16th-century Ship Canal. You can’t beat<br />

the location! They have a huge beer garden with areas covered and<br />

heated, so perfect for keeping socially distanced.<br />

That evening we stopped for food at Pieminister – set up<br />

almost 20 years ago by friends Tristan Hogg and Jon Simon after<br />

travelling around Australia in their early twenties, where they<br />

found themselves eating pies every day. They came home full of<br />

determination to reinvigorate the humble <strong>British</strong> pie.<br />

In 2003 they set up shop in Stokes Croft, Bristol. Soon they<br />

had a stall at London’s famous Borough Market, then a pitch at<br />

Glastonbury. They have grown over the years, and now employ<br />

around 300 people, but they still make all their pies in their Bristol<br />

kitchens – and are themselves still eating pies every day! Don't miss<br />

their Bottomless Lunches, where you have an hour and a half to<br />

enjoy brunch pies with unlimited Prosecco or cocktails.<br />

However you choose to spend your time in Exeter, the city is<br />

ready to welcome you with open arms, and there are plenty of green<br />

and open outdoor spaces, making it is easy to explore safely. From<br />

the city’s rich history to the many beautiful cycle trails and miles of<br />

meandering waterways, whether on bike, foot, kayak or ferry there’s<br />

a surprise waiting at every turn.<br />

Pictured below: Jessica parks and locks her electric bike<br />

from a code sent through the app; Double Locks<br />

18th-century inn with outdoor seats by the canal locks<br />

“<br />

We soon reached the Double Locks<br />

traditional country pub located on the<br />

banks of the 16th century Ship Canal.<br />

You can’t beat the location!<br />

”<br />

Jessica was a guest of Visit Exeter and Hotel du Vin<br />

visitexeter.com<br />

90 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

WIN<br />


Escape to the City<br />




and drink revolution with more and<br />

more great eating establishments<br />

and international menus.<br />

There are cafés and teashops in charming<br />

historic buildings, bistros with great views,<br />

and independent restaurants serving<br />

top quality Devon produce.<br />

Head to Princesshay or Queen St Dining<br />

for plenty of choice of eateries serving<br />

international cuisines. If you’re eating<br />

on the go, there are delicatessens and<br />

markets offering seasonal local food –<br />

pick up a delicious pie or pasty from the<br />

Exeter Farmers Market every Thursday, or<br />

experience the vibrant colours and flavours<br />

of the Guildhall Street Food Market every<br />

weekend and the regular Exeter Street Food<br />

Night Markets on the quayside.<br />

There are also popular annual markets and<br />

foodie events in the city, such as the annual<br />

Exeter Festival of South West Food & Drink.<br />

Many of Exeter’s pubs have been serving<br />

visitors and locals for hundreds of years<br />

– you can taste real ales and fine wines in<br />

the historic pubs around the Cathedral<br />

Yard and High Street, reputed to have once<br />

been frequented by Sir Francis Drake and<br />

Charles Dickens. There are also smart wine<br />

bars in the city, nestled among independent<br />

boutiques. Topsham, just four miles from<br />

Exeter, also is a must for food lovers.<br />

From award-winning Portuguese bakers<br />

to fish restaurants and a barbeque<br />

smokehouse, there’s food for every<br />

occasion, and to celebrate we are offering<br />

you the chance to win a two-night stay to<br />

experience the delights yourself.<br />




Indulge yourself at some of Exeter’s<br />

most renowned restaurants,<br />

with this fantastic foodie break...<br />

Experience Exeter’s 2,000 years<br />

of history, beautiful quayside, and<br />

top eateries serving the best of<br />

Devon’s food and drink.<br />


• A two-night stay with breakfast<br />

at the Jury’s Inn Exeter<br />

• Lunch or dinner at the wonderful<br />

Harry’s Restaurant<br />

• Lunch or dinner at seafood<br />

restaurant Rockfish, Exeter<br />


visitexeter.com/<br />

foodiebreak<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 91


FOOD<br />


experiences<br />

Words | Karyn Noble<br />

92 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Scotland’s capital has come to<br />

life after months of pandemic<br />

hibernation, and the delicious news<br />

for visitors is that there are some<br />

brand new dining and drinking<br />

establishments to welcome them.<br />

Karyn Noble is just back from<br />

Edinburgh with the inside scoop for<br />

your next getaway...<br />


SCENE has been<br />

inspirational to watch<br />

over the past decade<br />

– a flurry of independent<br />

restaurants with boundarypushing<br />

chefs showcasing<br />

Scotland’s finest home-grown<br />

produce. It’s an easily walkable<br />

capital city, and diving down<br />

into quirky whisky dens or up<br />

to cosy rooftops to admire the<br />

dramatic spires of its Old Town<br />

makes for memorable barhopping<br />

too. The buzz around<br />

some of its new openings<br />

should not be underestimated.<br />

Book well in advance to secure<br />

these hot spots for your next<br />

long weekend away.<br />

Superico Bar and Lounge<br />

Open since 22 July <strong>2021</strong>, the<br />

180-seater Superico Bar and<br />

Lounge has been wowing<br />

Edinburgh’s New Town with<br />

its bold Latin-Americaninfluenced<br />

flavours and<br />

Art Deco design (superico.<br />

com/#99). Settling into a<br />

bright yellow booth, it’s not<br />

difficult to see why it’s been<br />

shortlisted for an award in the<br />

Bar, Club & Lounge category<br />

at the Hospitality Design<br />

Awards (held in New York in<br />

September <strong>2021</strong>). A massive<br />

light feature, not unlike a<br />

gleaming full moon, dangles<br />

over the entrance, and the<br />

room practically glows with a<br />

vibrant sleekness.<br />

à<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 93

Pictured top left then clockwise: Superico Bar<br />

and Lounge; Casablanca Cocktail Club's<br />

Gold-leaf Wagyu burger and Sushi Maki Crab<br />

Indulge in house-pressed chips<br />

(70 fine layers of potato, no<br />

less!) with chipotle crema or<br />

dulce de leche doughnuts<br />

while sipping on a Smoked<br />

Peach Fizz (Chivas Regal<br />

Mizunara, Del Maguey<br />

Mezcal, Creme de Peche, Earl<br />

Grey tea, lemon and soda) or<br />

a freezer-fresh Padrón Martini<br />

from a drinks list that spans<br />

cocktails, spritzes and frappés<br />

(all designed by Edinburgh<br />

mixologist Mike Lynch), as well<br />

as a tidy collection of spirits<br />

and liqueurs, alongside nonalcoholic<br />

offerings.<br />

Casablanca Cocktail Club<br />

It might sound like a drinking<br />

destination, but Casablanca<br />

Cocktail Club<br />

(casablancacocktailclub.com)<br />

is actually the name of the new<br />

restaurant for Edinburgh’s<br />

oh-so-extravagant<br />

House of Gods Hotel<br />

(houseofgodshotel.com).<br />

Since it opened in September<br />

2019, the hotel quickly became<br />

known for its lavish Orient-<br />

Express style rooms and the<br />

‘Treat Me Like I’m Famous’<br />

experience (press a button<br />

to summon your butler for<br />

cocktails, midnight milk-andcookies,<br />

Prosecco, a breakfast<br />

hamper with Mimosas).<br />

Casablanca Cocktail Club<br />

is, unsurprisingly, not at all<br />

restrained. “It’s as decadent<br />

and opulent as House of<br />

Gods is,” says Co-Owner and<br />

Director Mike Baxter, from<br />

a Gucci-wallpapered room<br />

with a gold mirror ball on the<br />

ceiling. “Everything we do is<br />

the extreme of fantasy. I love<br />

this hedonistic idea of you<br />

come for dinner but end up<br />

dancing on the tables.”<br />

Open since 16 September<br />

<strong>2021</strong>, the restaurant serves<br />

40 covers (think: thrones for<br />

chairs) with bar space for 40<br />

guests, as well as a private<br />

dining area for up to 16 people.<br />

From head chef Andrew Logie<br />

(formerly of Edinburgh’s Galvin<br />

Brasserie de Luxe) expect such<br />

indulgences as gold-leaf Wagyu<br />

burgers served on Versace plates,<br />

cheese-and-truffle pizzas, as well<br />

as scallops-stuffed chicken wings<br />

marinated in Dom Perignon.<br />

Rooftop 51<br />

It doesn’t get more meta than<br />

looking at a slide of a cocktail<br />

called ‘Edinburgh’ through<br />

a retro Viewfinder, ordering<br />

it, then sipping on it from a<br />

rooftop bar while looking at<br />

Edinburgh Castle (instagram.<br />

com/rooftop). This is Rooftop<br />

51, where you’ll find a whole new<br />

viewing perspective atop the<br />

Moxy Hotel in Fountainbridge<br />

(marriott.co.uk): new brewerythemed<br />

accommodation on the<br />

western side of the city. “Most<br />

visitors haven’t seen this side of<br />

Edinburgh before,” says Craig<br />

Aitchison, Assistant Captain at<br />

94 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

Pictured left to right: Rico’s Ristorante; Darnley’s<br />

Gin Experience; the new St James Quarter<br />

The Moxy, as he brings some<br />

‘Wee Plates’ from the tapas<br />

menu (spanning everything<br />

from Baked Mac n Cheese Bites<br />

to a Vanilla & Toffee Honey<br />

Pot). While the bar (open since<br />

May <strong>2021</strong>) is named after<br />

the 51 different types of beer<br />

available (the hotel is on the<br />

former Fountainbridge Brewery<br />

site, after all), there’s also eight<br />

internationally themed cocktails<br />

and a short wine list. If the<br />

tartan blankets on the rooftop<br />

terrace aren’t enough protection<br />

against the chill, you can bring<br />

your drinks indoors to the inhouse<br />

cinema where there’s the<br />

occasional theme night (James<br />

Bond was a recent favourite)<br />

and popcorn in a variety of<br />

wacky flavours.<br />

Rico’s Ristorante<br />

An incredibly elegant addition<br />

to Edinburgh’s restaurant lineup,<br />

Rico’s is where modern<br />

Italy meets top Scottish<br />

produce in a sexy 56-cover<br />

space (ricosristorante.<br />

co.uk). Consider freshly made<br />

pappardelle with a ragù of<br />

organic rose veal (from Peelham<br />

farm in the Scottish Borders)<br />

and generous shaves of black<br />

truffle; or an exquisite risotto<br />

with East coast crab, shellfish<br />

bisque, chilli and coriander<br />

from 25-year-old chef Stefano<br />

Pieraccini. Open since 9 July<br />

<strong>2021</strong> and named after Stefano’s<br />

grandfather (Enrico Pieraccini),<br />

Rico’s has been extremely<br />

popular with the Scots-Italian<br />

locals, but there’s also a<br />

dedicated space for 20 to sit for<br />

a drink (there are three different<br />

types of Negronis, just saying)<br />

without any obligation to dine,<br />

though you may find the genuine<br />

warmth from the staff will tempt<br />

you to linger over Mortadella<br />

Gnocco Fritto or 24 Month<br />

Proscuitto San Daniele from the<br />

Bar Menu.<br />

If the main venue in<br />

Edinburgh’s New Town is fully<br />

booked during your visit, you<br />

can also sample their pasta from<br />

a dedicated stand at Bonnie &<br />

Wild Marketplace in the new St<br />

James Quarter.<br />

Darnley’s Gin Experience<br />

If you’ve always dreamt of<br />

making your own gin at a tutored<br />

tasting session, then this is the<br />

place to do it. Darnley’s Gin have<br />

ventured out of their home in<br />

Fife and opened a pop-up store<br />

right in the centre of Edinburgh<br />

in June <strong>2021</strong> (darnleysgin.com/<br />

pages/gin-experience). Over the<br />

course of 90 minutes, you’ll be<br />

guided through the history of<br />

their distillery while also tasting<br />

three of their delicious gins.<br />

You’ll then be presented with<br />

all manner of botanicals to sniff<br />

and select, as well as guidance<br />

notes and a flavour wheel, to<br />

create your own gin to take home<br />

(along with a Darnley’s blend).<br />

If you’re impressed by your own<br />

recipe, Darnley’s will even keep<br />

your bespoke blend on file and<br />

96 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

you can order bottles anytime. But if<br />

this all sounds like too much work, you<br />

can just order a G&T at the bar and<br />

sip it from the terrace outside. While it<br />

looks like a permanent store, the Gin<br />

Experience is in place until the end<br />

of March 2022 at this stage, though<br />

popularity may mean it becomes an<br />

Edinburgh fixture. Let’s hope!<br />

Cold Town Brewery Tours<br />

If you fancy castle views while learning<br />

more about craft beer, then Cold<br />

Town Brewery more than delivers<br />

(coldtownhouse.co.uk/cold-townbrewery-tours).<br />

Since July <strong>2021</strong>, small<br />

guided tours have started at their<br />

popular microbrewery. Over the<br />

course of an hour, you can learn more<br />

about the tank-to-tap process from<br />

one of the brewers, taste four of the<br />

range then decide on your favourite<br />

(whether that be a Cold Town Lager,<br />

a juicy New England IPA, or seasonal<br />

brews, such as the Pornstar Martini<br />

Ale or the Chocolate Cake Stout).<br />

Then settle in with your pint and a<br />

stone-baked Neapolitan pizza either<br />

on the roof terrace, the Grassmarket<br />

outdoor area, the Pizza & Prosecco<br />

Floor or within the Brewhouse; either<br />

way, it’s highly likely your views<br />

will be pleasingly turret-topped<br />

and medieval. And if you can’t see<br />

Edinburgh castle and want to remind<br />

yourself that you’re in Scotland, order<br />

the Holyrood pizza, which has a<br />

peppercorn sauce base, crispy bacon,<br />

fior de latte, Mull Cheddar…and yes,<br />

Chieftain haggis.<br />


Don’t miss this extraordinary £1<br />

billion development in the centre<br />

of Edinburgh, one of the largest<br />

regeneration projects in the UK.<br />

Sixteen years in the making, and<br />

after five years of construction, the<br />

first phase of the St James Quarter<br />

opened to the public on 24 June<br />

<strong>2021</strong> (stjamesquarter.com). Much<br />

more than a multi-level shopping<br />

galleria (it even has its own tartan,<br />

not to mention a W Hotel opening<br />

in 2022), it offers a broad range of<br />

dining experiences.<br />

“Level 1 is family favourites,”<br />

says Rochelle Weir, Brand and<br />

Marketing Director for St James<br />

Quarter. “We have (an area<br />

known as) Leith St Eats; in there<br />

we have Five Guys, Tortilla, and<br />

Maki & Ramen, which is a local<br />

business. Level 2 is high street<br />

and fashion brands. Level 3 you<br />

have aspirational brands and high<br />

end names… Level 4 is more of<br />

a night-time economy: you can<br />

shop until 8 o’clock, come here<br />

and eat and drink. We’ve got The<br />

Alchemist coming on in autumn,<br />

which is a cocktail bar with<br />

different food offerings. And also<br />

Bonnie & Wild. We should have<br />

around 30 restaurants and bars.”<br />

It would be easy enough to<br />

meet all your gourmet needs<br />

in Bonnie & Wild Marketplace<br />

alone (bonnieandwildmarket.<br />

com). It’s no mere food court,<br />

though it’s certainly possible to<br />

perch at a table (there’s space<br />

for 700 diners) and order coffee,<br />

cakes, pasta and pizza. This<br />

marketplace features some<br />

unique independent Scottish<br />

traders in their first-ever stalls<br />

(CHIX) alongside bigger names<br />

(Masterchef winner Gary<br />

Maclean’s first solo venture).<br />

There’s MacDuff’s butchers for<br />

all your take-away meat needs,<br />

a bottle shop, a private events<br />

space, a demo kitchen, a living<br />

moss wall, photos from the<br />

Scottish Landscape Photographer<br />

of the Year Awards…don’t be<br />

surprised to see a queue to get in.<br />

<strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com 97














We're reading...<br />

ACROSS<br />

1 Home to the Arms Park stadium (7)<br />

5 --- Manor Garden, known for<br />

lavender (7)<br />

9 Noel Coward's --- Spirit (6)<br />

10 Wild and wet activity (8)<br />

11 Company interested in cars and<br />

stars (8)<br />

12 Cathedral and University city (6)<br />

13 Jane Austen's last complete novel<br />

(10)<br />

16 "G.I. Jane" star --- Moore (4)<br />

17 Exercise for the flexible (4)<br />

19 Airport vehicle (7,3)<br />

21 In the second-best category (5,1)<br />

23 Thynne home and safari park (8)<br />

25 Dominant part of the brain (8)<br />

26 City of dreaming spires (6)<br />

27 London theatre (7)<br />

28 Kind of manner (7)<br />

DOWN<br />

2 Throughout history (3-4)<br />

3 Type of treat (5)<br />

4 Lives off others (9)<br />

6 Like some college walls (5)<br />

7 "The other place", to denizens of<br />

26 Across (9)<br />

8 Record deck part (4,3)<br />

10 Many a Saudi (5,6)<br />

14 Cornish beer and clay town<br />

(2,7)<br />

15 Bottom line, after tax and outgoings<br />

(3,6)<br />

18 Peanut or castor bean, for<br />

example (7)<br />

20 Not broadcast (7)<br />

22 Devon hotel island (5)<br />

24 Elevates (5)<br />

Answers will be printed in the Spring 2022 Issue out 4 September<br />

Worlds in Shadow: Patrick tells the stories of sunken land off the coast of<br />

the Isle of Man where ‘sailors assert that they frequently hear cattle lowing,<br />

dogs barking, beneath the waves’, Bloomsbury, £16.99 | The Book Lover’s<br />

Bucket List: A Tour of Great <strong>British</strong> Literature by Caroline Taggart, <strong>British</strong><br />

Library, £16.99 | The Way of the Tortoise: Matt Little, part of the team<br />

that saw Andy Murray win Olympic gold, shares his philosophy on exactly<br />

why taking it slow and steady is the best way to approach things, O’Mara<br />

Books, £14.99 | Hand Luggage Only: <strong>Travel</strong> guide to Great Britain from<br />

the guys behind award-winning blog of the same name, Hardie Grant, £20<br />

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 09 | SUMMER <strong>2021</strong><br />

ACROSS: 9 Ocean view 10 Soham 11 Balsa 12 MacGregor 13 Hackfall<br />

14 Annoys 15 Upton-upon-Severn 19 Europe 20 Dwindled 23 In a flurry<br />

25 Sikhs 27 Lento 28 Prurience DOWN: 1 AONB 2 Belloc 3 In half 4 Film clip<br />

5 IWSC 6 Estrange 7 The Globe 8 Imprisoned 13 Hauteville 16 Terrains<br />

17 Napoleon 18 No Way Out 21 Nessie 22 Liking 24 RSPB 26 Seep<br />

98 <strong>British</strong><strong>Travel</strong><strong>Journal</strong>.com

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