CosBeauty Magazine #99

SKIN
CERAMIDES
Ceramides are a type of skin lipid
that sit in the top layer of the skin
and work to lock in essential oils
and moisture. They are essential
in maintaining both the structure
and strength of the lipid matrix.
Ceramides are a naturally occurring
skin lipid found within the cell
membrane. They are used in
skincare products as an emollient
and, because of their rich, luxurious
feel, many are used on dry, chafed
and inflamed or delicate skin.
Also look out for products
containing evening primrose oil,
jojoba, coconut, macadamia, olive,
shea butter and wheatgerm.
COENZYME Q10
CoQ10 occurs naturally in the body,
however, factors such as stress,
ageing and some medications can
lower the levels. In most people over
30, levels of CoQ10 in the skin are
below optimum, resulting in lesser
ability to produce collagen, elastin
and other important skin molecules.
CoQ10 penetrates into skin cells to
boost skin repair and regeneration
and reduce free radical damage.
synonym: Ubiquinone, CoQ10
ENZYMES
Enzymes dissolve surface skin cells
for better delivery of topical skincare
and promoting the look of glowing,
fresh skin. Papaya, pineapple
and pumpkin are the three most
common sources of enzyme in
skincare.
synonym: Papaya, Papain,
Pineapple, Bromelain, Pumpkin,
Cucurbita Pepo
FERULIC ACID
Ferulic acid is an antioxidant from
the cell wall of plants and has been
shown to help combat skin ageing
by helping to protect future free
radical damage and repairing
existing free radical damage. It is
particularly effective combined with
Vitamins C and E to increase efficacy
and enhance stability.
synonym: ferulate, hydroxycinnamic
acid
GLYCOLIC ACID
(see AHAs)
HYALURONIC ACID
Found naturally in the body,
hyaluronic acid is what gives skin its
volume and fullness. One of its many
claims to fame is that it can hold up
to 1,000 times its weight in water.
Because of its ability to “latch” onto
huge numbers of water molecules
and bring them into the cells of
the skin, it is an extremely effective
hydrator and skin plumper.
synonym: sodium hyaluronate,
hyaluronan
JOJOBA OIL
From jojoba plant seeds, jojoba
oil mimics the skin’s natural oils
and thereby works synergistically
with the natural lipids in the skin to
provide lightweight, well-tolerated
hydration.
synonym: Simmondsia chinensis,
Isopropyl Jojobate
KOJIC ACID
This compound is a byproduct
from fermented rice in sake
and is commonly used to treat
pigmentation as it helps inhibit the
production of tyrosinase to combat
excess melanin.
synonym: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate
L-ASCORBIC ACID
(see Vitamin C)