03 Magazine: March 31, 2023

Feature | Magazine 39
“I thought Dunedin wasn’t big enough to sustain it, but I went and had a look
and thought I could do better than a sausage in some bread ...
I’m very loyal to the market. A lot of people come for us, so I don’t
take a day off – people expect you to be there.”
“I was 42 when I started – now I’m 62.
Saturdays can be a drain and affect your social
life. I like to play bowls – I’d like to dedicate more
time to it.”
Who Ate All the Pies is another success story.
Paul can remember coming across two young men
making pies at the Savoy and suggesting they come
along to the market.
“They brought along 30 pies and sold out in
about 14 and a-half minutes.”
They became a regular at the market, which
continued when they sold the business to
Englishman Steven Turner 15 years ago.
“I was literally there through snow, frost, illness
– for five years I never missed a farmers’ market.
It’s been the cornerstone of our business for a long
time,” Steven says.
In the early days, the market was an important
part of the business, nearly 40 percent of the
company’s trade happening in one day.
The market also got the company, now based
in South Dunedin, noticed by the supermarkets.
They sent testers in to try the product and
from that Steven got invitations to sell his pies
in supermarkets, which was also helped by him
developing a method of packing the pies.
National media coverage of the market then got
him noticed by top gourmet food shop Farro Fresh.
“Next we’re supplying the poshest supermarket
in New Zealand.”
The company has gone from producing 100–150
family pies a week when Steven took over to now
producing more than 4000 family pies each week.
The market also provides him with the perfect
opportunity to do market research, trial new
products and also make some products he can’t
sell in supermarkets, such as his Cornish pasties and
pork pies or his seasonal special of steak and Bluff
oysters. One of his most popular recent additions is
‘seconds’ pies – burnt or damaged pies.
“I get feedback instantaneously and I can give
value for money and specials you don’t get in the
supermarket.”
Like Mike, he enjoys having a chat with customers
and also doing his own shopping, making the most
of easy access to fresh produce.
“I can’t believe more people don’t use it. It’s as
busy as I’ve seen it in five or ten years, which is
great. I think people are being a bit more savvy
in their weekly shop and I think the vendors are
meeting them on price point.”
Beam Me Up Bagels is another success story,
starting out at the market where it sold 200 bagels
on its first day. It now has a bricks-and-mortar
business, as do market vendors Bay Rd Peanut
Butter, Evansdale Cheese and No. 8 Distillery.
Sharyn says the market, which is thought to be
the third-oldest in the country, is always evolving,
but one of the biggest changes has been how the
market has become a tourist destination.
The city council and others market it as
something to do when visiting Dunedin at the
weekend. It has featured in national media and
begun winning TripAdvisor Awards. It has also won
the Outstanding Food Producers’ top farmers’
market award four times.
The fan base is broad, ranging from the
everyday Dunedin person doing their weekly
shop to people from Auckland visiting their
children at university, to cruise ship passengers
and students themselves.
The market’s continued popularity over the years,
she believes, is down to the quality of the produce
and prices being kept consistent.
“The produce is picked fresh for the market and
its shelf life is very good.”
Sometimes the market’s Otago border is
stretched if there is not anyone to meet that need
from the region.
As part of the community, the trust tries to do
its bit when it comes to sustainability and waste
minimisation. It also supports a community group
each week by providing a stall for it to fundraise from.
“It’s another way for the market to give back to
the community.”
But at its heart, the market is all about providing
good-quality food, she says. These days many
people are concerned about food security and
where their food comes from.
“The interaction with vendors and learning about
what food is in season, when and how to cook it is
a wonderful opportunity and really engages people.”