WINTER 2023

FREE
The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 36
ISSN 2754-6799
WINTER
in Provence
It’s a great time to visit –
delicious, sparkling
and festive!
Magazine
Le Weekend
in Cassis
One of the most
beautiful seaside
towns in France
HISTORY OF
Galettes des
Rois cakes
Arc 1950
celebrates 20 years
Spotlight on
Nantes
Delicious recipes
Bringing you an irresistible
taste of France – including
lip-smacking garlic soup,
scrumptious baked
Mont d’Or cheese & more…
140 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos

Bienvenue
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www.georisques .gouv.fr
Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Magazine.
I’m over the moon to share this bumper winter issue with you,
it’s filled to the brim with fabulous features and wonderful
photos to inspire, inform and entertain - places to go, culture
and history, scrumptious recipes, guides and much, much
more.
Discover Provence in the winter, uncrowded, sparkling and
absolutely delicious. Head to Paris to find the traces of the
Belle Epoque – the beautiful era - and its beautiful legacy.
Dive beneath the Cathedral of Notre-Dame to discover the
remains of the Roman city of Lutetia. Fall head over heels
for Cassis, an absolute jewel of the French Riviera, and
follow in the footsteps of the artist Cezanne in captivating
Aix-en-Provence.
Explore the Loire Valley by paddle boat, head to Nantes to
meet a giant elephant and to Calais in the north to ride a
dragon! Explore the finest oyster producing town in Brittany,
take a bike ride in Normandy, and meet the last scourtinerie
in France – a specialist mat-maker. Discover the spectacular
ski resort of Les Arc 1950 and find out the incredible history of
Bordeaux’s oldest wine house.
Come with us to historic Tarn-et-Garonne and gorgeous Gers.
Discover the gastronomic delights of northern France. Visit
medieval Guérande and discover the charms of the French
Riviera’s hotspots.
Plus there are some superb recipes from the crème de la
crème of the French food world, and we look at the history of
Galette des Rois – pastries fit for a king.
And now – it’s time to enjoy this magazine which is totally
free to read, and subscribe to, just hop on to page 4 and sign
up! And please do share this issue with your friends – that’s
free too.
I wish you a very happy winter.
Bisous from my little corner in rural northern France,
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
Follow us on Twitter,
Instagram & Facebook
The Good Life France | 3

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CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 36 Winter 2023
ISSN 2754-6799
The magazine is free to read, download and share
Contributors
20
8
ON THE COVER
8 Winter wonderland Provence
It’s a great time to visit –
delicious, sparkling, and festive!
26 Le Weekend in Cassis
The year-round seaside charmer
you’ll fall in love with.
Gillian Thornton is an award-winning
travel writer and member of the British
Guild of Travel Writers, specialising in
French destinations and lifestyle. Her
favourite place? ‘Usually where I have
just been!’
Amy McPherson is a London based
travel writer whose work has been
featured in many international
publications. When not on assignment,
she loves to ride her bike, go
running along the river Thames,
or relax with her cat on her lap.
footprintsandmemories.com
Ally Mitchell is a blogger and
freelance writer, specialising in food
and recipes. Ally left the UK to live in
Toulouse in 2021 and now writes about
her new life in France on her food blog
NigellaEatsEverything
Amy Bizzarri is a Chicago-based
freelance writer focused on food and
travel. She's also the author of four
Chicago history-focused books, and
Iconic Hollywood Dishes, Desserts and
Drinks (American Palate) a dive into
Hollywood food history. Plus she’s a
WSET-trained sommelier.
Jeremy Flint is an award-winning
photographer (Association of
Photographers Discovery Award
Winner, National Geographic Traveller
Grand Prize Winner, five-times finalist
Travel Photographer of the Year) and
writer specialising in travel, landscape
and location photography.
Christine McKenzie is a Franco-
British journalist who writes in both
English and French. Her stories
have been published in anglophone
and francophone media. Married
to a Frenchman and mother of
four, she settled 30 years ago near
Fontainebleau.
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: Cassis, southern France
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor@thegoodlifefrance.com
Advertising: sales@thegoodlifefrance.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 36 Winter 2023
Marian Jones is a Paris lover,
Francophile and freelance writer,
specialising in the spots where
travel meets history. She likes to visit
somewhere fascinating, dig into its past
and share the stories she uncovers. She
also runs the travel podcast
City Breaks.
Podcast
Want more France?
Subscribe to The
Good Life France
weekly newsletter for
fabulous features,
recipes and more.
SUBSCRIBE
86
40 Spotlight on Nantes
Giant elephants and the
unexpected in the arty city.
86 History of Galettes des
Rois cakes
Pastries fit for a King.
102 Arc 1950
The family-friendly ski resort
celebrates 20 years of mountain
magic.
DISCOVER
20 Discover the Belle Epoque
in Paris
The dazzling legacy of the
‘beautiful era’.
30 Culinary treasures of
Pas-de-Calais
The northern French foodie
scene is off-the-scale delicious.
46 The Roman legacy of
Notre-Dame
Beneath the Paris Cathedral lie
the remains of the Roman city of
Lutetia.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

50 The last scourtinerie in France
Discover the tradition of matmaking
in southern France.
54 Véloscénie – Normandy
Cycling part of the Paris to
Mont-Saint-Michel bike route.
REGULARS
114 What’s New
All the news and events you need
for your next trip to France.
119 French Lesson
The art of French greetings.
60 The world’s your oyster
Oyster production on Brittany’s
Emerald Coast.
122
138 Last word
Life in Rural France – the joy of art
de vivre.
80
64
90
64 Finding Cézanne in
Aix-en-Provence
Tracing the footsteps of the
artist in his hometown.
68 Guérande, Pays de la Loire
The medieval town where salt
reigns.
74 Tarn-et-Garonne
A scenic tour into the heart of
Occitanie.
80 Chateaux, Bateaux &
Gateaux – oh my!
Discovering the Loire on a
paddle boat cruise.
90 Beasts, beaches and bistros
Meet a dragon on the beach
and indulge in the lip-smacking
cuisine of Calais.
136
126
GUIDES
122 Riviera Hotspots
Dreaming of a new life in the sun?
Check out the hotspots on the
sunny French Riviera…
126 Spotlight on the Gers
Gorgeous Gers is a rural paradise.
BON APPÉTIT
131 Garlic soup
A look at the life of one of
France’s greatest culinary artists.
132 Baked Mont d’Or
This classic cheese dish is
absolutely scrumptious.
134 Pot au Feu
France’s favourite comfort food.
98 Bordeaux’s oldest wine house
The incredible history of
Château Magnol.
136 Bitter almond crème brûlée
A new take on the classic French
dessert
106 Best Tours of France
The very best of France for your
tours and holidays.
PHOTO SPECIALS
112 Your photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our Facebook
page.
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more -
subscription is totally free.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

travelling. Plus, Provence is mouth-wateringly
delicious at this time of the year – it’s truffle
season after all. And if you go from mid-
November to the end of December – Provence
puts on its festive finery, whilst from January to
March, there’s plenty to do including festivals,
concerts and cultural events. So head to
Vaucluse and discover a Provencal winter
wonderland…
Winter flavours – eat,
drink and be merry
Truffles at Richerenches market
Photo © Alain Hocquel Vaucluse Tourism
Winter in PROVENCE
The Winter months are a great time to visit Vaucluse in the heart of Provence. It’s
the perfect season to chill, eat, drink and be merry says Janine Marsh…
Most of us think of Provence as a Summer
sunshine destination, never-ending fields
of lavender, sun-kissed hilltop villages and
vibrant street markets. Spring and Autumn are
also a popular time for tourists. But for me,
Winter is the best time to visit. For a start it’s
uncrowded, you’ll largely have it to yourself
along with the locals. It’s tranquil, blissful,
and the scenery is gorgeous. It’s not a huge
department so, just brimming with things to
do, you can experience a lot without too much
Truffle seller
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

The cooler months are perfect to enjoy the
flavours of Provence from daube, a winesteeped
beef stew to sauteed wild mushrooms
and vegetable soup flavoured with herbs
preserved from the summer months. Not to
mention delicious desserts including oreilletes,
wafer thin, orange flower flavoured, deep fried
cakes, nougat and crystallised fruit. But nothing
says Provence in Winter quite like truffles.
exquisite Provencal specialties. Generations of
truffle growers come here every year and the
market attracts visitors from all over the world.
It’s not easy to describe the earthy aroma that
assails your nostrils – like being at the bottom
of a big hole in a forest that’s been covered
for a hundred years, but in a good way! And
if you’re tempted to take home a truffle, you
can expect to pay from €300-1300 per kilo
(though a single truffle is a lot less – from €12
at the market) depending on quality. Find out
more: grignanvalreas-tourism.co.uk
If you want to store your truffles in olive oil,
then pop to nearby Puyméras where the Vieux
Moulin Farnoux is the last mill left in Vaucluse
still using traditional production methods.
Take a tour and tasting of the mill and it will
become immediately clear why chefs clamour
for the pure, simple cold-pressed ‘liquid gold’
produced here.
'Liquid gold', olive oil at Vieux Moulin Farnoux
It’s thirsty work eating all this delicious food so
next I recommend you head to Gigondas for
a visit to the cellars of Pierre Amadieu and of
course a tasting of robust reds, crisp whites and
soft rosés. This lovely town was founded as a
recreational site for the soldiers of the Roman
Empire’s Second Legion, and legend has it that
it was they who first planted the vines here.
Oreilletes
Vaucluse is the top producer of black
truffles in France. There are truffle hubs in
Carpentras, Ménerbes and the historic town
of Richerenches where this year the Truffle
Harvest Proclamation – which marks the
official opening of the truffle season - takes
place on 2nd December. The Truffle market of
medieval Richerenches has been held for 100
years. It takes place each Saturday morning
from November to March. And in January
there’s a Truffle Mass in the 12th century
church, dedicated to the Black Diamond, in
which local truffle producers place a very good
truffle in the collection tray as an offering.
If you think this all sounds rather truffleicious
– you’re not wrong. On a rather breezy
Saturday morning with the Mistral wind
accompanying me along Richerenche’s
appropriately named Cours du Mistral, I ogled
stalls piled with truffles, truffle flavoured oils,
cheeses, mustards and vinegars alongside
Christian Merin, truffle hunter
After warming up with a bowl of truffle
flavoured eggs (of course) at the cosy and
delicious L’Escaspade restaurant I headed off
to Valréas (8km from Richereches), to go find
my own buried treasure with truffle grower
Christian Merin and his friendly snuffling,
truffle-hunting dogs Prune and Prisca.
Prisca dashed from tree to tree sniffing and
sometimes digging before dropping a truffle
at Christian’s feet – at least most of the time,
at one point she couldn’t resist a nibble and
gulped down a small one!
pepiniere-christian-merin.com
A Taste of Provence. © Exquisite, all-inclusive, small group tours.
“If you have ever
considered culinary
tourism, Goût et Voyage
will be the trip of your
dreams. Excellence
at every turn!”
DS, NY
www.goutetvoyage.com
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

Santons means little saints, but these days the
little figurines are just as likely to be celebrities
or Santons famous ready for figures. painting, like In a Provence, tiny Terracotta army the cultural
history of Santons goes back to St Francis
of Assisi who in 1213 created the first living
nativity scene. Over time this custom evolved
into nativity crèches with large figurines,
sometimes based on real people, apparently
King Louis XIV had several scale models of
himself included in the Versailles crib.
Crillon le Brave cheese
Crown your epicurean journey by indulging
in what is quite possibly the best brunch in
France, or at least in the top three. At the
hotel Crillon-le-Brave in Crillon-le-Brave,
they really know how to spoil you. Brunch
(Sundays) here is not cheap and nor should it
be – you’ll be tempted by an enormous choice
of lip-smacking dishes from oysters to mouthwatering
cakes, while you enjoy exquisite
views over the Provence landscape. Heavenly.
And irresistible.
Discover the truffle route in Vaucluse:
provenceguide.co.uk/truffleroute
Wintry wonderlands
Vaucluse has 7 listed “Most Beautiful Villages
in France” - Gordes, Roussillon, Ménerbes,
Ansouis, Lourmarin, Venasque and Séguret –
every one of them is worth a visit any time of
the year, but in Winter, Seguret has a special
place in my heart thanks to its incredible
Santon display and a living nativity scene
every Christmas Eve which gives the village
the nickname ‘Bethlehem of Provence’. It’s
also where you’ll find the workshop of santonmaker
Denis Voeux – an absolute must-visit.
Santon
Denis Voeux studio
Denis Voeux in his workshop
Entire villages at the Carpentras santon display
When anything to do with religion was banned
during the French Revolution, people started
making santons in secret at home.
In a workshop reminiscent of Cézanne’s studio
in Aix-en-Provence (see page 62), Denis
Voeux creates santons based on real people.
He learned his craft from famous santonnier
Robert Canut by watching him work and then
practicing alone for years. He made his first
santon in honour of his first child some three
decades ago, and he made it in the likeness of
his then 101-year-old grandfather, “he placed
the first clay in his own mould, it meant so
much to me” says Denis. Visit Seguret and
you’re likely to recognise some of the locals
who feature in his santon world. “People
from around here don’t travel far, but their
characters travel all around the world” he
laughs. “My job as a santonnier is to bring the
figure to life. The santon has a soul.” Every
one of his handmade, hand-painted santons is
unique.
You can find out more, book a visit or buy a
santon at: les3souquets.fr
And if you love santons, then you really
need to pop Carpentras on your must-visit
list. In the tourist office is an immense crib,
a whole world of santons, which every year
has a new theme. With its fabulous market,
historic streets, museums, and fun street
performances from mid-December to early
January (Noël Insolites), Carpentras is as
uplifting as it is interesting. Noelinsoltes.fr
12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13

Vaison
For a lovely light display, it’s hard to think of
anywhere prettier than Vaison-la-Romaine,
around 10km from Seguret. Head to the upper
town at dusk to see the lights twinkle over the
tranquil cobblestone streets and then wander
down to the main town via the Roman bridge
and head to Patisserie/chocolaterie Gilles
Peyrerol for a hot chocolate and a hedonistic
foot-long croissant filled with caramel and
chocolate.
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L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue makes for a
fabulous winter visit. There are
literally hundreds of antique
shops to browse in this pretty,
historic town, plus superb
restaurants. The late great
British TV personality, chef and
‘gastronaut’ Keith Floyd had a
restaurant here in the 70’s, lured
by the charm of the town and
the magnificent local produce
– and wine. I couldn’t resist
taking a morning workshop to
make my own glass bauble at
L’As du Verre with glassmaker
Guillaume Roux, whose shop is
brimming with gorgeous glass
things! And at Filaventure, the
family-run Brun de Vian Tiran
wool mill of which has been in
the town for more than 200
years, you’ll find the most
divine rugs, shawls, scarves,
throws and all things woollen:
lafilaventure.com
Glass marker Isle sur la Sorgue
And for more fabulous shopping, culture and
fabulous food, head to Avignon, the capital
of Vaucluse which has a fabulous market
and some superb stores including Le Nid,
for all things made-in-France for the home,
fabulous crafts at Les artisans de la rue des
Fourbisseurs, and treats from Chocolaterie
artisanale Aline Géhant. And while you’re in
this ancient city with its monumental 14th
century Palace of the Popes, don’t miss the
chance to treat yourself to a meal at the
captivating and cosy Le Violette.
SUMMARY
Enjoy the off-season charm of Vaucluse and
end or start the year in Provencal style with a
sprinkle of sparkle.
Discover heaps to see and do, places to stay,
restaurants and lots more at
provenceguide.co.uk
The Winter climate in
Vaucluse
Avignon Le Violette
Winter officially starts around December
21, the date of the Winter Solstice in the
western hemisphere and lasts until Spring,
usually around March 21. The season is
generally mild, but the winds can be very
chilly, ferocious even, on days when the
Mistral blows – but the good thing is, this
huffy-puffy wind whips the clouds from
the sky allowing the sun to shine through.
Snow is rare (not more than 3 days a year)
and usually over quite rapidly – except
at the top of the majestic Mont Ventoux
Mountain.
Sorgue
Crillon le Brave
16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17

Is everything open in
winter in Vaucluse?
Generally, you’ll find that things are open as
usual. Villages follow their regular routines
with markets and shops open, but some
villages may have fewer weekly markets
than in summer. Museums and some
restaurants may have reduced opening
times, so check in advance. Most vineyards
are open for wine tastings and tours as
always. There’s plenty going on from
Christmas markets to festivals, including
concerts at Lourmarin Castle, and the major
Equestrian festival, Cheval Passion, and
dance festival Les Hivernales, in Avignon.
Find all events here: provenceguide.co.uk
Accommodation is always available, smaller
places may close in Winter but there are
some fabulous hotels that are far cheaper
this time of the year, the perfect excuse to
push the boat out.
Richerenches town
Hotel les Florets
Three fabulous winter
stays:
In a truly gorgeous location at the foot of
the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains in
Gigondas, Hotel Les Florets is full of charm
and has a superb restaurant featuring the
best of local produce – be warned, you
may never want to leave!
The Grand Hotel Henri in Sorgue is
utterly lovely. Experience the epitome of
French art de vivre, and let yourself be
cosseted at this luxurious hotel which has
a fantastic restaurant.
Hotel de Cambis, a stunning boutique hotel
in a 18th century mansion house in the
heart of Avignon, has a fabulous wine bar
and hosts wine tasting events throughout
the winter.
18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19

Wandering
through
Belle Époque
Paris
Close your eyes and think of Paris: the Tour Eiffel standing tall over the whole city,
the exuberant façade of La Samaritaine, the iconic metro entrances with their dark
green wrought-iron railings and retro lamps. They all date from the Belle Époque,
which literally means the beautiful era, a 40-year period of fizzing excitement and
innovation which has marked the city ever since. And if you know where to look, you
can find many more traces of this iconic period in Paris today says Marian Jones.
The Belle Époque
When World War One broke out, Parisians
knew it was the end of an era. For 40 years,
since the end of the Franco-Prussian War in
1871, life had been good. People had crowded
into the shops and cafés of the Grands
Boulevards created by Haussmann. Advances
in technology saw the metro – opened in
1900 – replace horse-drawn carriages.
And creativity was everywhere, in the art of
Matisse and Toulouse-Lautrec, in the newly
opened cinemas and in the city’s cabarets and
dance halls. It really was a Belle Époque.
The Eiffel Tower, the tallest structure in
the world at the time, was designed to
impress with the very latest in engineering.
500 workers assembled 18,000 carefully
numbered pieces to create a daring beauty
which towered over the city and announced
to the world that a new era had arrived. (Eiffel
Tower podcast). The Gare d’Orsay, opened
in 1900, was the first station in the world built
for electric trains, another signal that Paris
was in the forefront of progress. Visiting the
Musée d’Orsay today, you can still see traces
of the building’s heritage, for example in the
beautiful Art Nouveau station clock which
dominates the restaurant.
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau architecture is found all over
Paris today. As new metro stations opened
in the early 1900s, many of their entrances
were designed in Hector Guimard’s iconic
style, with elegant cast-iron railings,
sometimes roofed over by decorative
iron and glass canopies. Art Nouveau first
Avenue Rapp
20 © Wazim | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

appeared in about 1890, featuring curved
designs, often inspired by nature. You can
find it on the façade of La Samaritaine and
in Belle Époque era restaurants, and at
29 Avenue Rapp, a stone’s throw from the
Eiffel Tower is one of the most impressive art
nouveau doors ever created.
A good example is Le Boullion Julien in the
Rue du Faubourg St-Denis, a monument
historique where a mahogany bar and tables
sit under a glass canopied ceiling and huge
mirrors line the walls. The decorations include
brass fittings, intricate plaster mouldings and
designs featuring peacocks, flowers and – on
the ceiling! – herons. Many of the Bouillon
restaurants which opened in the 19th century
to offer quality food at affordable prices, can
still be visited today, a chance to go back in
time and enjoy impeccable waiter service in
art nouveau surroundings.
The city’s grandest Belle Époque restaurant
is Le Train Bleu at the Gare de Lyon, which
opened in 1901 as a station buffet. Its
extravagant décor, designed to attract
well-to-do customers wanting to dine
before travelling south for the summer, was
art nouveau taken to the very dizziest of
heights. The golden ceiling is punctuated
by chandeliers, the walls are covered in
paintings. The tables are impeccably laid with
the crispest of white tablecloths, the heaviest
of proper cutlery and the shiniest of glasses.
The very finest brasserie cuisine is served
and if you find the prices a little higher than
elsewhere, remind yourself that you are in a
restaurant where Brigitte Bardot and Jean
Cocteau chose to treat themselves.
If you want to wander an area of Paris and
find the Belle Époque today, then here are
three ideas.
A Belle Époque
Grand Vista
Stroll across the Alexandre III bridge, from the
left bank towards the Grand Palais and the
Petit Palais. The bridge was built in 1900, its
single elegant arch a technical triumph and its
elaborate decorations fully Belle Époque in their
exuberance: pairs of stately street-lamps line
it, the decorations include dozens of carvings
and gold-plated statues. And the vista is Belle
Époque too, for it was built for the Universal
Alexandre III bridge
Exhibition of 1900 to lead visitors across the
Seine to two new exhibition halls which would
showcase the latest in art and design, namely
the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais.
The Grand Palais was another feat of
engineering. The vast, elegant domed roof is
supported by an iron and steel frame which
looks light and airy, but in fact contains more
metal than the Eiffel Tower! Normally used for
large scale exhibitions, it is currently closed
for renovation and not due to reopen until
2024. But the Petit Palais, which houses the
City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts, is open as
usual and entry to the permanent exhibition is
free, meaning it’s easy to have a look around
the beautiful interior with its spiral staircases
and curved iron railings, stained glass
windows and ceiling murals. Its café, where a
columned patio curves around a little garden,
is always worth a visit.
Le Boullion Julien
Cafe of the Petit Palais
22 | The Good Life France Train Bleu
The Good Life France | 23

Dome, Printemps department store 2 © Paris Tourist Office David Lefranc
Shopping à la Belle
Époque
Wander the area around the Opéra. The
Opéra Garnier itself, opened in 1875, harks
back to the grandeur of the 2nd Empire, but
the ‘Grands Boulevards’ with their exclusive
cafes and shops were very much at the centre
of Belle Époque excitement. It was here, in
Boulevard des Capucines in 1895, that the
public first paid to see the films of the Lumière
Brothers – the beginnings of cinema in Paris
– and grand new department stores were
springing up, two of which you can still visit
today.
glass canopy at the 6th floor restaurant,
the Bleue Coupole. The interior of the
Galéries Lafayette, which originally opened
in 1895, is very Belle Époque, especially the
glorious central dome, visible from every
floor, an exquisite 1000 square metres of art
nouveau stained- glass. On the 2nd floor,
there is a walkway out into the central space
underneath the dome, so you can admire it.
And – better still! – there’s a café with a ‘Vue
sur Coupole’, perched on the side of the shop
where you can enjoy classy little sandwiches
and cakes while taking it all in. This chance
for ‘un snacking raffiné, (a refined snack) is so
popular, that you are asked to stay no longer
than an hour!
Don’t forget Montmartre
The entrance to the Abbesses metro station
is one of the city’s best kept examples of
art nouveau. Its spectacular glazed canopy
and elegant dark green wrought-iron railings
sing Belle Époque, as do the surrounding
old-fashioned street-lamps. Montmartre
was very lively then too, a place where
artists and musicians gathered in the cafes
Loire Brakes
Le Moulin Rouge © Paris Tourist Office Jacques Lebar
At Printemps in Boulevard Haussmann,
you can catch a little of the atmosphere by
eating under a huge and beautiful stainedand
revellers flocked to dance halls and
cabarets like Le Chat Noir, the Moulin
Rouge and the Follies Bergères.
Across the road from the station is one of
the city’s few art nouveau churches, St Jean
de Montmartre. It too was built at the turn
of the century, using the newest techniques.
Abbot Sobaux wanted his church to suit
the new, industrial era, so he approved its
structure of reinforced concrete with a
red brick façade, meaning locals refer to it
affectionately as Notre Dame des Briques.
Inside, the décor is very art nouveau:
patterned brick, relieved by ceramics in
bronze, blue and gold.
The Musée de Montmarte covers a wide
span of the area’s history, and you can learn
lots about the Belle Époque there. There are
early photographs of the Moulin Rouge and
its well-known dancers, including La Goulue.
There’s a whole collection of period posters
for venues like Le Chat Noir, by Toulouse-
Lautrec and others, and a section on the
new – for the time! –shadow puppet shows,
produced, for example in 1896 at the Boîte à
Musique on the Boulevard de Clichy.
Any of these strolls will take you back to the
Belle Époque, as indeed will just keeping your
eyes open as you wander the streets of Paris.
Entrance by Hector Guimard (1867–1942)
Luxury guided tours in the Loire Valley
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24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25

Le weekend
in CASSIS
Cassis is a year-round charmer with its café-bordered quays on the edge of the
Mediterranean Sea, and 300 days of sunshine a year says Janine Marsh.
What to see and do
Cassis, a seaside town on the coast of the
Mediterranean is brimming with charm, the
town boasts a port lined with colourful cafés,
restaurants, and shops set in an outstanding
area of natural beauty. It’s a perfect weekend
destination – the fast train from Paris takes just
3 hours 48 minutes, and Marseille is just 25km
away (30 minutes by train) – and a world apart.
Wherever you are in Cassis you’ll see Cap
Canaille, one of the highest cliffs in Europe,
and according to King Louis XIV, the most
beautiful in France. Hike, cycle, or drive to
the crest of Cap Canaille and follow the pinetree
perfumed Routes des Crêtes (ridges) for
a spectacular view over the sea, Cassis and
the Calanques, limestone cliffs that grace this
part of the Mediterranean. You can hike to the
Calanques and find a cove to swim or while
away the day. Or take a boat ride – it’s best
to go in the morning when the light is better,
and watch the fish follow the boat, playfully
flitting around the buoys that dot their kingdom.
Somehow trees, flowers and fauna find a way to
sprout from the crusty rocks, their jagged edges
softened by the sea’s pounding over millennia.
A vibrant market is held on Wednesday and
Friday morning with a great range of goods
from charcuterie and cheeses to chic shoes.
And there are plenty of art galleries, shops
and boutiques – including a perfumery where
you can take a workshop and make your own
perfume. This is the perfect place to stroll –
and eat!
There are restaurants galore serving the
freshest fish, authentic bouillabaisse, seasonal,
classic, gourmet, gastronomic dishes. There
are café’s where they serve rouille, a garlicky
paste to spread over crunchy bread squares
and little bowls of olive oil to pour over your
fish. Pair everything with a glass of wine from
one of Cassis’ wine domains – local wines
are served in all of the town’s port-based
restaurants.
Brunch: Les Roches Blanches – this is one
of the best brunches in all of France – a
smorgasbord of pleasure.
Lunch/Dinner: Anywhere round the port, or
head into the warren of narrow streets around
for less touristy, more local options.
Aperitifs: Locals love Le Franc, La Marine,
Monsieur Brun in the port area, or the bar at
Roches Blanches.
Activities include swimming, diving, yearround
snorkelling, sailing, tennis, windsurfing,
Cassis port
26 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 27

Room with a view Les Roches Blanches
jet-skiing, and horseback riding. And for
something less active – wine tasting. There are
12 wine domains in Cassis producing sunshinefilled,
delicious whites and roses.
There’s a small museum with a collection of
paintings and Roman artifacts. Unsurprisingly,
painters have long flocked to capture the
beauty of Cassis. This photogenic little former
fishing village is Instagram-worthy at every
turn, making artists of visitors.
Les Roches Blanches
Calanques
Everyone should have the chance to stay at
the 5 Star Hotel Les Roches Blanches if only
for one night. This former 19th century private
mansion is where Winston Churchill played,
and Edith Piaf relaxed. It’s the sort of French
paradise you see in films but don’t believe
somewhere this special could really exist. It
does. From the pool on the terrace of my
room overlooking Cap Canaille which glowed
the colour of toasted apricots as the sun set,
I watched sailing boats go by in a sea that
seemed to turn every colour of blue, fringed by
the white rocks below which give the hotel its
name. I can honestly say that at the moment
I had nothing in my head except how utterly
beautiful and relaxing this place is. Rumour
has it that the owner of the stunning Chateau
of Cassis stays at Les Roches Blanches so he
can have a fabulous view of his own castle!
There are four restaurants, all of them
absolutely fabulous. The food is stupendous.
The bar and the spa are superb. The hotel is
super luxurious, but not at all stuffy.
I might have shed a tear when I had to leave.
Details: roches-blanches-cassis.com/en
How to get there
From the train station it’s a long walk into
town (just under 2 miles), or you can take a
taxi, or bus which run on the hour until 7pm.
Find more details of activities and events at
the Tourist office, located on the port:
ot-cassis.com
28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29

The culinary treasures
of northern France
but you’ll still be able to get breakfast. From
4.30am – 4.30pm La Chatillon restaurant,
an institution in Bourgogne, serves fishermen
and anyone else who loves great food – their
seafood is superb.
Fish fit for a Queen
Journey along the beautiful coastal roads of
the Opal Coast and you’ll pass by authentic
fishing villages where traditional little wooden
boats are parked outside houses and fishermen
sell their catch direct from their garages.
Don’t miss Boulogne’s fabulous fish market
where artisans (local fish) and commercants
(fish from further afield) put on a colourful
display of fish from scallops and sardines
to spider crab and sea bream. At Solutions
Fish Market stall the seller tells me “I’ve won
17 awards for quality of fish, I even had a
message from Queen Elizabeth II about my
award as a supplier to the royal table - the first
French fisherman to win such an award from
the Queen.”
Solution fish/seafood
Cap Blanc Nez©lescoflocs
Come to Pas-de-Calais in the Hauts-de-France region and you’ll discover an area
of ancient history and rich culture, fringed by the glorious Opal Coast and brimming
with historic villages and quaint hamlets which pepper the bucolic countryside. But
what I love most about this friendly region – is its gastronomy says Janine Marsh.
The gastronomy of Pas-de-Calais is unique.
Its flavours come from the rich natural bounty
of its fertile land and sea. It takes a pinch
of influence from its Flemish past. And it’s
seasoned by – well the seasons, in the far tip
of northern France, it’s the rain and temperate
climate that makes this area the vegetable
garden of France. Come here with stretchy
trousers and a healthy appetite because
you’re going to be feasting like a lord…
La Mer
Pas-de-Calais is home to France’s biggest
fish port – Boulogne-sur-Mer and restaurants
in the region serve a wide range of the
freshest fish from lobsters and mussels to
langoustine and herring. Each morning,
after a 5am auction, fish is delivered all over
northern France and to the famous food
market at Rungis in Paris. It might be early,
The King of fish
If you like your fish smoked, you’re in for a
treat here. 100 years ago there were dozens
of fish smokers in the town, now there are just
four including Accary, famous for their smoked
herring – AKA the king of the fish in this part of
the world.
This artisan producer consists of just 5 people
who clean, cut, salt, smoke and pack the fresh
fish delivered daily – a process that takes
just 24 hours for herring, and a little longer
for salmon. Smoked in huge stone chimneys
called ‘corresses’ using oak and beechwood
shavings, they’ve been working this way for
almost 80 years and have won numerous
awards including a coveted EPV and red label.
The ashes are removed weekly and used by
a local soap producer, any fish waste is used
in cosmetics and animal food production.
Nothing is wasted.
30 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 31

Exquisite food at La Liégeoise restaurant
Accary
You won’t find Accary fish in supermarket
only in good fish shops and gourmet shops,
or go direct to their smokery and ring the bell
– you’ll get a warm welcome. “We have a lot
of happy customers” says Ludovic Sodorge,
“even the gendarmes come here for their fish!”
accarysalaisons.fr
It would be a sin to go to the Opal Coast
and not eat well. At the Atlantic-Delpierre
Hotel in Wimereux, a lovely seaside resort
that’s renowned for its colourful Belle Epoque
villas, push the boat out at Michelin-starred
restaurant La Liégeoise. Chef Benjamin
Delpierre weaves magic in the kitchen to
create an exquisite menu that includes
oysters with candied lemon marmalade,
seaweed butter and a scrumptious peanut
32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33

Hotel Atlantic
and chocolate dessert that I still dream of! On
the first floor, La Liégeoise has stunning views
over the sea, perfect for the extraordinary
sunsets that the Opal Coast is known for. On
the ground floor is Brasserie L’Aloze which also
has a great menu – the smoked salmon with
matcha tea waffle and carrot, ginger and yuzu
cream is memorable.
Details: Reserve a room and table at Hotel
Atlantic-Delpierre. All rooms face the
sea, there’s a well-being spa and tranquil
atmosphere - this hotel is a relaxing hideaway
and a luxurious little gem.
La Terre
Over the last decade or so, chefs have flocked
to create restaurants here, especially those
who love to work with seasonal, organic and
local produce. They’re lured by the tasty
treasures, the quality and range of ingredients
on offer, from saffron grown on the coast to
the excellent cereal which (in my opinion,
and I am a bit of a cake expert!) makes for
the best bread and cakes in France, as well
as vegetables grown in the historic marsh
area of Saint-Omer. Covering an area smaller
than New York City, the agricultural output
of Pas-de-Calais is astonishing with premium
production of many vegetables including sugar
beet, chicory for coffee and beer, and endives
as well as sustainable animal farming.
Those chefs have brought with them diverse
food heritages from France and all around
the world. Chef Christophe Dufossé is one
of them. Born in Calais, he moved to Metz in
Lorraine, northeast France before deciding
to come back to the region. Searching for
the perfect place to open his restaurant he
knew that he had found it when he stayed at
the Hotel Chateau de Beaulieu in Busnes,
formerly run by 3 Michelin starred chef
Mark Meurin who was contemplating
retirement. Since 2021, Chef Dufosse and
wife Delphine have breathed new life into
the 17th century chateau, creating a spa
area, and expanding the 5-star hotel rooms
and restaurant space. They’ve also cultivated
part of the enormous estate which now
boasts beautiful potagers and orchards
which provide at least 50% of the fruit and
vegetables used in the kitchen. Their
efforts have won them a rare Michelin
Green Star, awarded to chefs who are
leaders and innovators in the field of
sustainable gastronomy.
Chef Christophe Dufossé in the orchard
There is a small farm for
rescue animals at the chateau,
including Étoile the black
sheep, a gift to Chef Dufossé
from his wife when he received
his second Michelin Star
Saint-Omer, historic marshlands where vegetables have been grown for hundreds of years
34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35

Chef Dufosse’s team includes 28 chefs -
expert patissiers, chocolatiers, glaciers,
charcutiers, boulangiers and sweet makers.
He works with around 40 local producers,
fishermen, market gardeners and farmers.
In his 2 Michelin-starred restaurant
gastronomique and brasserie Cote Jardin,
you’ll feast on the most mouth-watering of
dishes, this is more than lunch or dinner, it’s an
epic-urean experience. And whatever you do
– leave room for dessert, resistance is simply
futile. www.lechateaudebeaulieu.fr
Chateau de Beaulieu and Restaurant Gastronomique Christophe Dufossé – Gastronomic restaurant
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36 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 37

3 places to experience a taste
of Pas-de-Calais
Head to Houlle to try the world’s best genièvre (genever),
a local speciality that’s like a Dutch gin. The Distillerie
Genièvre de Houlle is home to the oldest grain distillery
in use in France – making small batches of this hairs-onyour-chest
drink since 1812.
Cheese heads will love the artisan-made regional
frommages of the Frères Bernard at Wierre Effroy. You can
watch the cheeses being made, including mouth-watering
Mimolette – then scoff them without moderation!
Try the divine beer at the ancient Abbey de Clairmarais,
Saint-Omer, where beer has been made for centuries.
Find loads more to see and do in Pas-de-Calais at:
visitpasdecalais.com
Mimolette
Laurent Delafosse has revived the ancient art
of brewing beer at the Abbey of Clairmarais
38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39

pachyderm as it lumbers past a giant threetier
carousel of sea creatures – a tribute to
Jules Verne, author of Twenty Thousand
Leagues under the Sea. The elephant waves
its trunk from side to side, and I duck behind
the assembled crowd to avoid a hefty spray
of water. It is, for adults as well as children, all
huge fun.
I’ve only been here a few hours, but already
I’ve learnt that Nantes is a city of surprises.
Once a throbbing centre of shipyards, sugar
refineries, and biscuit factories, Nantes saw its
economy crumble in 1987 with the closure of
the shipyards and other related industries.
But today France’s sixth largest city is famous
for reinventing itself with a unique USP as an
arts and culture city. And much of it is free
to enjoy. Nantes wears its art on its sleeve
with a permanent collection of 128 artworks
in public spaces from the city centre along
the Loire estuary and through the nearby
Muscadet vineyards, not to mention its rich
museum collections.
Passage Pommeraye
NANTES
for
NOVICES
Expect the unexpected in
the hometown of author
Jules Verne. Gillian
Thornton enjoyed a
voyage of discovery on
her first visit to Nantes.
I hear the animal long before I see it. A loud
bellowing sound that echoes through the
rafters of the old industrial buildings beside the
river Loire. Far from running away, the family
in front of me start running towards the noise
and I find myself running with them. After
all, nobody wants to miss the famous Grand
Elephant of Nantes in motion.
We catch up with the huge mechanical
So how much can you pack into a short
break? The city is served by 23 daily TGV
trains from Paris, but I arrive by car on a
touring holiday, leaving my vehicle in a
secure public car park just five minutes’ walk
from the Hotel Voltaire Opera. This 3-star
boutique hotel in a 19th century town house
stands in the elegant Graslin district, close to
the Passage Pommeraye, a glorious period
shopping arcade on three levels.
40 | The Good Life France
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The local tram system is regular and reliable,
but the city centre is very walkable too. Buy a
Pass Nantes for free access to public transport
as well as a wealth of must-see sites for 24, 48
or 72 hours.
Day One
First thing I do is pick up the Green Line in the
city centre. Not a bus or tram network but a
coloured line painted on the pavement to link
the eclectic mix of artworks that make up The
Permanent Voyage. Every summer since 2012,
this trail is supplemented in July and August
by Le Voyage à Nantes, a temporary outdoor
exhibition of new artworks.
There is something here for everyone. A suited
gentleman stepping sideways off a plinth;
a green urban jungle in a once rundown
courtyard; and a stone beaver on ancient
masonry. Look out for almost 30 quirky shop
signs and a line of concentric riverside rings
that frame the cityscape. Every bend in the
trail reveals a new surprise.
Urban jungle on the Green Line
Anne
Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery, the only
one of its kind in Europe.
I’m drawn also to the section on – big
contrast here – biscuits! Who knew that
Nantes is the home of the beloved Petit
Beurre and the LU biscuit brand, once
manufactured in a flamboyant quayside
factory that has since been repurposed as
the Lieu Unique cultural centre?
From the castle, I stroll through the lush
Botanic Garden, where I can’t resist a Kodak
moment beneath a giant park bench, and
enjoy the indoor highlights of the Arts Museum,
before walking back through the elegant
pedestrian shopping streets ready for dinner.
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Capital of the Loire-Atlantique department,
Nantes has come under the Pays de la Loire
region since 1941, but before that was part of
Brittany. In the heart of the city’s medieval
quarter stands the imposing Castle of the
Dukes of Brittany, started in the 15th century
under Francois II, last duke of an independent
Brittany, and continued under his daughter
Anne, twice Queen of France.
Today it makes an atmospheric home for the
city’s excellent History Museum, which covers
four major themes including the castle itself,
two World Wars, and the city’s industrial past.
I’m particularly impressed by the section on
colonial economy and Nantes’ role in the
Atlantic slave trade. The city confronts this
period of its history full on, as can also be
seen on Quai de la Fosse in the underground
La Cigale
I’m booked in at La Cigale, in the
Cambronne district, a stunning Art Nouveau
brasserie opposite the Opera house and
a city institution since 1895 with its giltframed
mirrors and plush décor. Expect
42 | The Good Life France
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Statue of General Cambronne outside La Cigale
smiling bilingual staff in traditional black
and white uniforms and classic brasserie
fare in a buzzing environment. A worthy
listing in the excellent free gastro guide,
Les Tables de Nantes.
Day two
I start my second day on the west side of town
in the village atmosphere of the Chantenay
Quarter, once a working-class district of
shipyards and factories, and now undergoing
an urban makeover with kitchen gardens
and artworks. On the left bank opposite
lies Trentemoult, accessible by shuttle boat
from the Gare Maritime. Once a village of
fishermen and sailors, this cute community is
now popular for its bright facades, street art
and guinguette taverns.
From the town centre however, you only need
cross a bridge to reach the Ile de Nantes and
the 13-hectare Parc des Chantiers, a former
shipyard that has been gradually transformed
since 2007 into a place where locals come
to relax and play. Artworks are everywhere
as you follow the Green Line through the
Creative Campus, and past the 300-seat
Cantine du Voyage, a riverside summer eatery
made of removable greenhouses.
But the big draw amongst the restored
slipways is Les Machines de L’Ile, mechanical
creatures inspired by Jules Verne, Leonardo
Da Vinci, and by the industrial history
of Nantes. I love the giant spider, the
chameleon, and the sloth in the live show
Galerie, but the biggest draw here is the
Grand Elephant, 12 metres high and carrying
50 passengers for a 30-minute ride. Truly a
once-in-a-lifetime experience.
And don’t miss a ride on the Carrousel
des Mondes Marins, Jules Verne moved to
Paris and later to Amiens, but always found
inspiration in Nantes and wrote Twenty
Thousand Leagues Under the Seas during
regular return visits.
More major projects are already on the
cards. The reopening of the cathedral, closed
since 2020 following a fire. A makeover for
the Archaeological Museum. And a new
centre on the Chantenay quayside dedicated
to Jules Verne.
I finish my city stay with a gastronomic treat at
Pickles, a cosy restaurant run by English chef
Dominic Quirke in a quiet street close to the
city centre. Menus are changed every three
weeks, always with the aim of reducing our
meat and fish consumption. The ingredients
aren’t fancy but the sublime way in which this
former IT expert blends local produce together
is a holiday memory to savour.
‘I’ve been here ten years and now other chefs
are staring to do something similar, so I’m
constantly looking for ways to offer something
new,’ Dominic tells me with the air of one who
quietly relishes the challenge. It’s a philosophy
that seems to perfectly reflect the spirit of this
enchanting city. Who knows what I’ll find on
my next visit?
levoyageanantes.fr
hotelvoltaireoperanantes.com
lacigale.com
pickles-restaurant.com
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44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

Notre-Dame before the fire
From Lutetia to Paris
The Roman ruins beneath the
Cathedral of Notre Dame
Christina Mackenzie explores the ground beneath
Paris to discover the city’s ancient past
Few people walking on the square in front of
Notre Dame are aware that right beneath
their feet lie the ancient remains of the city –
in Europe’s biggest archaeological crypt.
The entrance is down a discreet staircase
in the northwest corner of the square. You
might think it leads to the car park! Look for
a pillar with “Crypte du Parvis” engraved on
it. The cool air, dim light and quiet ambiance
are a strong contrast to the generally busy
square that lures tourists to witness one of
the most beautiful churches ever built.
But in this museum, you’re unlikely to have
to jostle. There were just 125,000 visitors
in 2022, an average of around 400 a day,
possibly because it’s confusingly called the
“Crypte”, which one generally associates
with a stone chamber under a church which
contains religious relics. The museum’s
official name is the Crypte archéologique
de l’île de la Cité… perhaps it would draw
more visitors if it were just simply called the
“Musée archéologique de Paris”!
The ancient vestiges, hidden for centuries
under the square, were discovered by
accident in 1964 during excavations during
works to build an underground carpark. When
it became clear that these archaeological
remains from the Romans to the 19th century
provided a unique timeline to understanding
the city’s urban and archaeological
development, plans for the carpark were
modified and archaeological excavation
continued for a further eight years.
Once you’ve paid your entrance fee and
your eyes have adjusted to the quiet light,
you’ll walk along raised pathways, looking
down on 2,000 years of history. Tactile,
animated displays, in French and English,
help visitors understand what it is they’re
looking at.
Right in the centre are the remains of the bath
house where inhabitants of the Gallo-Roman
town of Lutetia, as Paris was known then
(meaning ‘place near a swamp’), could come
and relax, catch up on the latest news and
exchange gossip.
Today’s visitors can follow the same path the
bathers would have taken. You can see the
remains of the changing room with its bench
still intact. Somebody lost some of their coins
in this changing room. As coins were only used
for about 20 years, archaeologists assume
that this money, found between two paving
stones in 2012, gives an accurate indication of
when these baths were last used: at the end of
4AD or in early 5AD.
The baths had underfloor heating (who
thought this was a modern invention?) and
you can see the small columns of stones that
held the floor up so the heat could spread
underneath. You go through the cold room,
the hot room, the sauna, then back through
the cold room.
The oldest vestiges visible are those of the
city’s very first port, built at the beginning
of 1AD just after the Romans colonised the
Gaullish settlement. Obviously the Romans
46 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 47

An Overall view of the Medieval section
wanted to be able to trade from here with the
rest of their empire so the first thing to do was
to build a port. As is very well explained, the
Seine river was untamed back then, so it was
spread much wider than today.
Right above the remains of the quay are
those of the rampart built along the same
axis three centuries later between 308 and
360 AD. The rampart went around the Île
de la Cité with a main road that ran northsouth.
The rampart was built using large
stones that have segments of inscriptions
on them, so it’s believed that they were
taken from official monuments of Lutetia or
from seating in the theatre where important
families had permanently reserved seats with
Overall view of the Roman baths
their names on. You can see remains of the
theatre, the Arènes de Lutèce, which had a
seating capacity of 15,944, and is the only
other Roman vestige visible in Paris, on the rue
Monge in the 5th arrondissement.
From the Medieval period there are the walls
of 14th and 15th century cellars of the homes
built along the rue Neuve Notre Dame, and
the basement of the former chapel of the
Hôtel-Dieu hospital. Don’t look for this 76m
long street. It disappeared in 1874 but when
you emerge from this museum, have a look
at the markings on the square. They will show
you where this street used to be.
The 18th century is represented by the
foundations of the Foundling Hospital, the
Hospice des Enfants-
Trouvés, built in 1746
on the rue Neuve Notre
Dame and demolished
in 1874 to widen the
square in front of the
cathedral. The 19th
century is represented,
rather unglamorously,
by traces of sewers.
The museum is open
Tuesdays-Sundays, as
well as some major
public holidays. For
more details check out
the website:
crypte.paris.fr
Rue Neuve de Notre Dame,
city map 1550
Azincourt1415.com
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
Step back in time
and discover the past at
Azincourt 1415 historic centre
48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49

The last Scourtinerie
in France
In Nyons, in the Drome department,
south of France, you can witness a
timeless Provençal tradition, the
ancient craft of weaving ‘scourtins’ -
round filter mats that are made from
natural coconut fibres. Jeremy Flint
visits a workshop where the old matmaking
customs are treasured.
Walking into the Scourtinerie workshop on
the banks of the river Eygues, I felt as if I had
stepped back in time. The sight of age-old
machinery and the rattling of steel spindles
ringing loud was mesmerising as coloured
fabric spun in a frenzied state, becoming
increasingly entangled as the threads took
shape, weaving the weft to create circles.
The Fert family established La Scourtinerie
in 1882 to make traditional scourtins, a
circular filter that’s used for filtration in
the extraction of olive oil and wine from
presses. They already owned a successful
woollen weaving firm, and after coming
up with the idea to make scourtins,
Ferdinand Fert invented and patented the
first circular weaving machine in 1892. It
was an incredible feat of engineering. He
also introduced coconut fibres into French
weaving. Such is the strength and quality
of the fibres, they have been used by
generations of Fert family scourtin makers
for the last 140 years.
Business was good until the ravaging frosts
of 1956 destroyed the olive trees. Orders
for scourtins reduced drastically, and for a
while the company looked like it would have
to close. But when the family realised that
people used the old scourtins for doormats,
George and Alain Fert, Ferdinand’s son and
grandson who clearly inherited his gift for
innovation, had the genius idea to transform
scourtins into mats.
As competitor businesses closed over
the years, the company became the last
Scourtinerie in France. Today, they still
make traditional scourtins used as filters for
olive oil, cider, fruit and wine presses, and
they also make decorative scourtins used as
table mats, place mats, door mats, carpets
and rugs. This diversified product range is
available in 25 different colours and many
sizes, and you won’t find anything like these
unique artisanal pieces made anywhere else
in France.
Now Sophie Villeneuve-Fert, the founder’s
great-great granddaughter, the 5th
generation of the family to weave scourtins,
is ensuring the continuity of this fascinating
craft, whilst continuing the company’s
incredible legacy.
Sophie is passionate about her role in
this family business. “The craft of La
Scourtinerie allows me to have direct
interactions with our customers, and I
Sophie with bobbins of dyed yarn fibre
50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51

'Real' South of France Tours
find great joy in the creativity involved in
our products” she says. “It feels incredibly
authentic and I take immense pride in our
family’s legacy. La Scourtinerie has been in
existence for 140 years, and I am determined
to carry it forward with me and future
generations”.
She explains how the process of making
scourtins involves several steps. The Coconut
fibre is imported mainly from India in the form
of hanks of yarn, and is the primary material
used to make scourtins. It’s dyed (if required)
and then wound onto bobbins, which are fed
into the scourtin-making machines. Next,
needles are placed in the mould of the
scourtin-making machine which act as guides
for the weaving process.
In the workshop, 4 scourtiniers weave and
hand-finish the scourtins, which are shipped
all over the world. The firm continues to
innovate, for instance introducing ecofriendly
natural dyes, increasing the product
range and collaborating with companies
like Parfumeries Fragonard, to combine the
artistry and uniqueness of scourtins which has
seen the company receive a “Living Heritage
Company” award in recognition of the
exceptional skills of the weavers.
Visit can be organised in advance at
scourtinerie.com
EXPERIENCE THE
AMAZING CULTURE,
HISTORY, FOOD
AND WINE IN
THE REAL SOUTH OF FRANCE
realsouthoffrancetours.fr
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hold you back!
If you’ve always dreamed of making the move to France but don’t
know where to start, we’re here to help.
Our friendly English-speaking team at French Connections HCB
offers a support service in every aspect of French administration,
visa applications, setting up a business, car registration,
healthcare, buying and renovating a property,
and much more.
For help simply visit
frenchconnectionshcb.com or
call us on +33 1 85 65 74 98
to get started.
52 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 53

The cycle route that runs from Paris to Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy is wheely
superb says Amy MacPherson…
On your BIKE!
In Normandy
Just an hour from Paris by train, brought me
to the heart of the Perche Regional Nature
Park in Normandy where I planned to cycle
part of the Veloscenic route, la Véloscénie in
French. This 450KM cycle route runs between
Paris and Mont Saint-Michel, winding its way
through three nature parks and five UNESCO
listed heritage sites. Along the journey you dip
in and out of towns and villages that seem to
step back in time, and it’s a great way to slow
down and soak up a gentler pace of life, and
to taste the flavours of the countryside.
There are around 20 points along the route
where you can hire bikes, and we started our
journey at the station of Nogent-le-Rotrou,
taking the relaxed option of e-bikes.
The Fabulous Greenway
It’s so quiet I couldn’t help thinking. The
gentle silence was almost tangible. I was
pedalling along a stretch of cycle way, the
wheels of my bike whirring softly on the
earthen path lined by trees that were just
sprouting their crisp Spring greens. The only
sound was from the serenading songbirds
darting in and out of low bushes.
The majority of the Veloscenic route within
the Perche Regional Nature Park is trafficfree
greenway, built on a stretch of disused
railway line. From steel bridges to old station
houses that are now either private homes or
restaurants along the way, parts of the rail
heritage decorated our passage.
From Nogent-le-Rotrou, it is an easy ride to
the small village of Rémalard-en-Perche, a
place of narrow roads lined with stone houses
sporting pastel-coloured shutters. The Huisne
river trickles gently by, nurturing the farms and
the landscape of the Perche.
Other than the forgotten villages and hamlets,
this stretch of the cycle way has no significant
landmarks to speak of. However, that is the
beauty of such expeditions. There is a surprise
every corner, whether it be an ancient church
or a set of ruins. And as ever in France, always
a lovely little place to eat.
Regional specialties and
community cafés
Our arrival in Rémalard-en-Perche gave us a
chance to stop and fuel for lunch. Right by the
54 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 55

En Gare
cider tasting
cycle way, the old train station house is now
a small restaurant suitably named En Gare. A
photograph of the station building in the late
19th century shows the railway tracks that
ran past doorstep, and the building itself has
hardly altered except for fresh paint and the
modernised interior.
The menu of fresh tomato salad, duck filet
and pain perdu, perfectly filled the gap after
a morning’s exercise and set us up to continue
along the gentle cycle path, losing ourselves
among the greenery.
“You know, in the Orne department, we really
love cyclists,” said our guide Perrine Peigney.
“The Véloscénie isn’t just popular with visitors,
Parisians come here because it’s so close to
the city, but local people love it too and many
of them really enjoy this relaxing ride. There
are so many other great cycle routes in the
department, and there are many businesses
that are great supporters of cycling tourists.”
We stopped for a coffee break in the town of
Courgeon, where Café de la Place is run by
Denis Hurtaud and his son, who were inspired
to move here from La Rochelle after a holiday
cycling the Veloscenic route. They were so in
love with the cycle route and the landscape that
they decided to create this café as a community
hub and welcome cyclists passing through.
“My next project is to provide camping
accommodation for the cyclists on the
Véloscénie,” said Denis, as we enjoyed coffee
under an old linden tree. “They can rest for the
night, have a shower, have something to eat.
It’ll be fully tailored for cyclists.”
After this quick break, it was time to make the
most of the fact that we were in Normandy -
and you cannot have a holiday in Normandy
without trying cider.
Cidres du Perche
After a brief return to the greenway, we turned
off-piste to cycle through an orchard of apples
and pears to reach the tasting room of cider
producer La Maison Ferré.
Grégoire Ferré is passionate about the cider
business he started 20 years ago. A tour of
the organic farm revealed that he is not just
about producing cider, but he is ardent about
understanding cider from the ground up –
from the soil to the breed of apples and pears,
and how to keep the health of the trees and
hence the quality of the fruits.
56 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 57

There is however, another reason why cider
is special here. The AOC label of Cidres du
Perche is a newly created national recognition
on this deliciously bubbly cider that is
considered the champagne of the cider world.
And it truly is good. Take it from someone who
doesn’t normally like cider!
Boudin de Mortagne-au-
Perche
We spent the night in the historic town of
Mortagne-au-Perche, at Hôtel du Tribunal,
one of France’s Accueil Velo (Cyclists
Welcome) accommodation.
When it comes to supporting cyclists, the
French do it so well. These cyclist friendly
hotels don’t just “welcome” a cyclist. There are
tools if you need to do a little maintenance,
as well as secure bike parking that isn’t just
an empty room with a door. The excellent
breakfast buffet is more than the usual bread,
butter, and coffee, they know that cyclists will
require a whole day of fuel.
The next day, we took time to visit this beautiful
town, home to the beautiful church of Notre-
Dame, with its atmospheric cloisters and a
wonderfully preserved medieval centre, but it
is the Boudin, the black pudding of Mortagne
that is king. So much so, that this delicacy
is given its own annual festival, the Foire au
Boudin de Mortagne, held every Spring.
Popping into the local butchers we each
bagged a portion of the black pudding,
surprisingly portable for cycling adventures
(and full of protein and fats needed for
energy)! On the lovely town square there is
also a small ice cream parlour and a great
delicatessen for more peckish delights.
I mean, what good is a cycling holiday if you
can’t eat your way through it?
A quick taster for
next time
After another day through greenways and
country roads, we ended the journey at
Alençon, a lovely town with a history of lace
making. We left our trusty bikes and took
the train back to Paris. This two-day taster
of an adventure left me dreaming of a twoweek
trip. To cycle all the way from Paris,
to eventually roll towards the coast with the
silhouette of Mont Saint-Michel to welcome
me. Oh the dream! I’ll be back…
veloscenic.com
en.normandie-tourisme.fr
Hotel tip: Amy stayed overnight in Paris at
the 25 Hours Hotel Paris Gare du Nord. This
colourful hotel has all the fun elements of a
couple of days in Paris, before or after your
Veloscenic adventure! Have we mentioned
free mini bar?
Alençon
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fabulously easy.
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58 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 59

The world’s your
OYSTER
On the Emerald Coast, within the curved bay of Mont Saint-Michel, east of St-Malo,
magnificent oyster beds stretch for miles around the coastline and picturesque
fishing port of Cancale in Brittany. It’s one of the best places in France to enjoy
oysters says Jeremy Flint.
2000 years ago the Romans who came to
France were fond of French oysters and small
fishing communities began on the shores of
the Bay of Mont-Saint-Michel to fish the wild
oyster beds. King Louis XIV had oysters from
Cancale delivered to Versailles – it’s said he
would regularly eat six dozen before his main
meal and some claim he would eat up to 300
in one sitting.
Today cultivated beds cover 400 hectares
of the Bay of Cancale, protected from the
prevailing westerly winds, and rocked by
some of the largest and strongest tides in
the world. 50 oyster farms and around 500
permanent staff farm a whopping 25,000 tons
of oysters per year.
The family run La Ferme Marine oyster farm
has been cultivating the delights of the ocean
for decades along Cancale’s captivating
coastline. They specialise in producing two
types of oysters, Japanese and flat. Flat
oysters were traditionally harvested by hand
at sea and are now dredged before being
cultivated. Japanese oysters are more cupped
in shape. Straight from the Pacific, they adapt
to any type of environment.
The richness and diversity of the marine fauna
and flora ecosystem play a crucial role in the
breeding of the oyster in the Bay of Cancale.
The quality of the sea water and plankton
are the most important factors in making the
taste of oysters stand out. Rearing an oyster
is hard work and requires a unique know-how
and a significant amount of time. It takes
about three years for an oyster to grow and
ready to eat.
Sacks of oysters are placed on raised racks
80cm above the seabed and regularly turned
over at low tide during the three to four years
of growth. This reshuffling prevents them
from sticking to each other. Oyster farmers,
kitted out in waders, work with the tides as
they work the oyster beds and watch over
these small marine pearls. At their prime,
the oysters are harvested in rhythm with
the tides. When the bags are detached and
delivered directly from the seabed to the
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

workshop they are separated, washed, and
sorted by size. The grade varies from 0-5 for
the hollow ones, so the smaller the number,
the bigger the oyster.
The breeding expertise of the oyster farmers
of Cancale have earned this area a UNESCO
award for Intangible Cultural Heritage and
many consider it to be the capital of oyster
fishing in France. You’ll find that every
restaurant in Cancale serves these succulent
molluscs, and there’s an oyster market by the
lighthouse where you can buy shucked oysters
and sit on the sea wall slurping them.
Historically, oysters were cooked but are now
largely consumed raw, and are renowned for
their supposed aphrodisiac properties. Legend
has it that the famous lover, Casanova ate
50 raw oysters for breakfast each day! The
French are the biggest consumers of oysters in
Europe gobbling almost 150 tons per year.
Oysters are
traditionally served
with slices of lemon, a
mignonette sauce and
plenty of bread and
butter (salted is best).
The coastal route
from Cancale is a
glorious place for a
walk, visit the nature
reserve of Pointe du Grouin and soak in the
fantastic ocean views before feasting your
eyes on the magnificent Mont Saint-Michel
jutting out of the sea.
To find out more about La Ferme Marine
oyster farm and arrange a tour, visit:
ferme-marine.com
Mignonette Sauce
2 tbsps finely chopped shallots
2 tbsps red wine vinegar
1 tbsp water
Pinch of salt
Stir all together, leave for 30 mins.
Keeps for 2-3 days.
62 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 63

Finding CÉZANNE in
Aix-en-Provence
Janine Marsh traces the footsteps
of the painter in his hometown.
I can’t help thinking how strange it is to be
walking through a residential part of Aixen-Provence,
past local corner shops and
apartment blocks– at the same time knowing
that I’m just minutes from the studio of Paul
Cézanne, set in a street where you’d miss it if
you didn’t know it was there.
I’ve long loved Cézanne’s art, as a kid, one
Christmas I asked for a book of art about
the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists
of which Cézanne was a leading light. My
favourite painting was The Card Players I
felt like I could smell the pipe smoke and
hear them laying the cards and sighing
at their luck. Years later when I saw the
painting for real in Paris’ Musée d’Orsay, it
surpassed my expectations, a whole story
played out in a painting.
Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence
on January 19, 1839, and memories of the
great artist are everywhere but it’s in his studio
where you feel his presence the most. He
worked here for four years before his death.
There are tranquil gardens, birds singing,
burned orange shutters and pale blue window
frames on pale mustard walls – so Provence,
and recognisable colours from his paintings.
On a hot midsummer’s day, the sunlight plays
a dappled tune through the wilting leaves
of the tall trees, and it’s easy to imagine the
painter arriving first thing in the morning which
was his habit, setting off at 6am and walking
around 20 minutes from his apartment as 23
rue Boulegon in the town as I had just done.
He would collect his brushes, paints and easel
from the studio (they are still there) and head
off into the countryside to paint. Around 11am
he walked back home for lunch, returning in
the afternoon to carry on painting.
The studio was built to his own specifications,
each room conformed to his specific
requirements. Big windows, blinds to mute the
shade on the south side, open on the north side
where the light was shaded. Everything is as it
was, though the original floor has been cleaned
of its multiple paint stains. In one corner of
the studio, you can see where he had to cut a
64 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 65

Buying
in France?
Card Players, Musee d'Orsay
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hole in the wall, the only way to get his largest
painting, Grandes Baigneuses, out.
Cézanne was classically trained, and his
early paintings show he was a superb painter,
especially of biblical scenes, he could
certainly do art the accepted way in those
days – but that wasn’t his way. For him it was
about harmony in shapes, texture and colour.
He was obsessed with painting the nature
of Provence and Mont Sainte-Victoire, the
mountain that dominates the landscape of
Aix, and he obsessively organised objects for
his still life paintings.
His art wasn’t always appreciated. When
Cézanne exhibited two paintings at the first
Impressionist Exhibition in 1874, a critic wrote
that he was “a bit of a madman, afflicted with
painting delirium tremens…” It wasn’t until the
last ten years of his life that his work began
to be appreciated, and he would certainly be
shocked to find that one of his paintings of
Mont Saint-Victoire sold in New York for $138
million in 2022.
By all accounts he was a difficult man. Emile
Zola his friend since childhood, said of him
that though he had the makings of a great
painter “he will never have the genius to
become one. The least obstacle makes him
despair.” He painted with an intensity that was
unusual, would fly into rages, and destroy his
work. Struggling to achieve the recognition he
craved, he would tell younger painters “I am a
painter of your generation, not of mine.”
But here in the studio there is an air of peace.
You can see the objects he painted, still
grouped together, the bottles, the skulls (noone
knows who they belonged to – but they
are real), his smock and hat, brushes and
easels, just as if he were still there.
Cezanne-en-provence.com
Follow up with a tour of the Cézanne family
home in Aix, Jas de Bouffan, the Bibémus
quarries, pine forests and fields of the area
that provided inspiration for his art. Book tours
at Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office.
At the Musée Granet you can see several
original works of Cézanne.
Cézanne died at his apartment in rue
Boulegon on October 23, 1906, from pleurisy
said to be brought on by painting outside in
at storm. Visit his final resting place in Saint-
Pierre Cemetery.
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66 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 67

WHITE GOLD
Salt production
is one of France’s
oldest and most
traditional
industries.
Gillian Thornton
visits Guérande in
Pays de la Loire.
Guerande salt pans at Terre de Sel, Pradel
Pitch up at any one of Guérande’s four town
gates and there’s no question that you’ve arrived
somewhere rather special. With 1300 metres
of unbroken ramparts and six imposing towers,
the city walls are some of the best preserved in
France and the most complete in Brittany.
The masonry looks pretty impressive now
in the 21st century, an age when we are all
used to big builds, so imagine the impact that
Guérande would have had in the mid-14th
century when the walls were commissioned
by Jean de Montfort during the Breton War
of Succession. This was clearly a town that
meant business.
And the main business of this strategic
community built on high ground near the
Atlantic coast was salt. Today Guérande is
part of the Pays de la Loire region, but until
1941 it was part of Brittany, and Brittany in the
14th century was an independent and powerful
Duchy. Only in 1532 did it become part of
France with the marriage of Anne de Bretagne
and Charles VIII.
Guérande controlled the salt marshes and
with them a commodity as important to
medieval daily life as refrigerators are to
us today, the prime means of preserving
food stocks. By the end of the 14th century,
Guérande was the second-largest town
in Brittany after Nantes with some 4,000
inhabitants and some 500 years later, I can
still sense the power contained within these
solid ramparts as I step through Porte Saint-
Michel into another world.
A visit to Guérande divides neatly into
two halves. The walled town with its halftimbered
buildings and historic streets,
retail temptations and restaurants. And the
extensive salt marshes fed by a narrow inlet
from the Atlantic Ocean at Le Croisic. The
two are inextricably linked, so be sure to see
them both.
68 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 69

Guérande’s ramparts were classified as a
Historic Monument in 1877 and today the
town is also part of the Villes & Pays d’Art et
d’Histoire network. Stop off at the Château-
Musée inside the Porte Saint-Michel, which
has served over the centuries as ducal
lodgings, prison and Town Hall. The only site
open to the public inside the wall itself, this
medieval gem also provides access to more
than a third of the rampart walk where you
can peep over chimneys and rooftops into
hidden gardens and cobbled alleys.
Then just wander – it’s impossible to get
lost. The walled town is divided roughly into
quarters by two main streets that intersect
outside Saint-Aubin Collegiate Church,
its slate-clad spire visible from all around.
History unfolds at every corner if you keep
your eyes open. The outside pulpit beside
the main door of the church. The ancient
buildings around Place du Pillori. And the
walled Manoir de la Prévôté, home to the
medieval Provost, highest ranking dignitary
among the canons of the collegiate church.
After a succulent salad on the terrace outside
Gout’Thé, a delightful tea room and small
shop in Rue de Saillé, I head outside the
city walls to Pradel on the edge of the salt
marshes and the Terre de Sel visitor centre
to discover how traditional methods of salt
production are still in use today. Open daily
throughout the year, this excellent facility
includes an exhibition and well-stocked
shop, and is the departure point for guided
walking tours of the salt pans (advance online
booking strongly advised).
Generations of salters or paludiers, have
shaped and managed the landscape here for
almost 1500 years and in 1991, Guérande salt
was awarded the prestigious Label Rouge. In
winter and spring, the marshes are quiet as
salters carry out maintenance ready for peak
production season. Our English-speaking
guide explains to our small group how the
salters fill their reservoirs by opening sluice
gates on the main canal to admit the strong
spring tides. The water then runs into a series
Porte Saint Michel, Guerande
Guerande salt lakes
Place du Pillori, Guerande
of shallow pools and eventually evaporates
from the effect of wind and sun, causing the
salt to crystallise.
The result is two different kinds of salt,
painstakingly removed by hand using longhandled
implements. The coarse grey salt
(Gros Sel), rich in minerals, is scraped daily
from the bottom of the pools, whilst the
fine white Fleur de Sel is collected from the
surface of the brine. As a general rule, use
Gros Sel in cooking and Fleur de Sel at the
table for that extra special salty tang. Mash
potato and fries just aren’t the same without
it, so I take the opportunity to stock up –
slow food at its most pedestrian.
Salt production is a highly skilled operation
and Terre de Sel is run as a co-operative,
many salt pans passed down through
generations of the same family. But a
significant number of new paludiers are
being attracted to this ancient way of life
in a peaceful, natural environment that is
home to more than 180 species of bird.
I stay overnight at the charming Moulin
de Beaulieu, a three-storey, one bedroom
windmill just outside the ramparts
(unsuitable though for anyone with mobility
issues). And for dinner, enjoy an al fresco
meal at Burger et Sarrasin beside the
cathedral, a delicious Breton take on the
humble burger using local produce and
with a choice of special bread containing
sarrasin or buckwheat.
Next morning, I potter along the coast
to La Turballe, a major centre for sardine
canneries until 1989 and still France’s 10th
biggest fishing port. Take a guided tour from
the Maison de la Pêche museum to visit the
fish auction rooms on the quayside; step
on board a 1960s sardine boat, Au Gré
des Vents; and learn about France’s first
offshore wind farm, the Parc Eolien en mer
de Saint-Nazaire.
I also explore nearby Piriac-sur-Mer,
designated a Petite Cité de Caractère of
Loire-Atlantique, where granite houses
face onto narrow flower-fringed streets
70 | The Good Life France Au Gre des Vents, La Turballe
Outside pulpit, Collegiate Church
The Good Life France | 71

French immersion courses
Learn French - naturally
and experience the culture of France from the beaches of
Normandy to the heart of Paris
Gout'The, Rue de Saille
behind a tranquil marina. Head the other way
and you’re just a short drive from the stylish
seaside resort of La Baule and the tranquil
wetland of La Brière Regional Natural Park,
both well worth a stopover. Join me there in
the Spring issue of the magazine to see why…
Tourist information from
labaule-guerande.com
Charente-Maritime – Poitou 'Ane en culottes'
Aigues-Mortes
Hear French,
Experience French,
Speak French!
xpfrance.net
More French salt towns
Aigues-Mortes, Gard
A medieval walled city on the Canal du Rhône
à Sète on the west side of the Camargue. Visit
the salt pans on board Le Petit Train, on a
guided walking tour, or by bicycle, or just take
in the view from the ramparts.
Saliés de Béarn, Pyrénées-Atlantiques
Not salt from the sea, but a salty spring
discovered in the Middle Ages. Take a tour of
the Salines production facility and shop; book
a wellbeing cure at the thermal spa; and enjoy
pretty canals and half-timbered houses
Ile de Ré, Charente-Maritime
Production methods have hardly changed
since the Middle Ages on this low-level
island off La Rochelle. Look out for ‘Les Anes
en Culottes’ donkeys in protective striped
‘trousers’ that once worked the salt pans.
Salins-les-Bains, Jura
Salt was extracted here from underground
salt water from the 8th century until 1962.
Visit the restored Great Saltworks and the
nearby UNESCO-listed Royal Saltworks at
Arc-et-Senans.
72 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 73

Spotlight on
MONTAUBAN
Montauban
Place Nationale
Starting in the tranquil department of Tarn et Garonne, Gillian Thornton
takes a scenic tour into the heart of Occitanie
Day or night, whatever the weather,
Montauban’s Place Nationale is a magical
spot to wind down a gear or three at a café
table. Centre of local life since medieval
times, this bijou square is surrounded by red
brick properties, built after the old wooden
buildings were gutted by fire in the 17th
century. Nearly 400 years later, the double
arcades and harmonious facades simply ooze
symmetry and wellbeing.
Whenever I make a welcome return to
Montauban, Place Nationale is always my
first port of call. So I’m thrilled this time to find
that the square is now even more enchanting,
thanks to the installation of a water mirror that
zings periodically to life with dancing water
jets and swirls of coloured illuminations.
The largest town of Tarn-et-Garonne,
Montauban lies north of Toulouse in the west
of the Occitanie region. But Montauban is
large only in relation to the rest of this rural
department. Bisected by the river Tarn, this
enchanting town numbers barely 30,000
inhabitants but still carries the prestigious
label of Art & History Town in recognition of its
rich heritage and outstanding art collections.
Many visitors arrive in Tarn et Garonne by
car, bent on discovering a landscape that
includes steep gorges, rolling farmland, and
peaceful waterways. Not just the Tarn and
Moissac
Garonne either. Both the Aveyron and the
Canal Latéral la Garonne join the Tarn at
UNESCO-listed Moissac with its decorated
abbey cloister. For hikers and bikers, the
department offers a wide choice of marked
trails but there are slow tourism activities to
suit everyone. I have been horse riding on the
cliffs above the Aveyron; explored at water
level by kayak; and revelled in a level pedal
beneath towpath trees.
74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

Ancient grain hall, Auvillar
Musee Ingres Bourdelle, Montauban
Saint Antonin Noble Val
And if you don’t want to drive or just want a
more planet-friendly holiday, Montauban is less
than an hour from Toulouse by train on the Lot
and Dordogne Line. Stay on the train line to
visit the white limestone houses of Caussade,
capital of the French hat-making industry in
the Quercy Blanc area of Tarn et Garonne. Or
pick up the Canal des Deux Mers Line to visit
Moissac. Plan your route and buy tickets at
Occitanie Rail Tour.
I love Moissac, where society guests danced at
riverside guinguettes in the 1930s during their
grape juice ‘cure’; the atmospheric market town
of St Antonin Noble Val on the banks of the
Aveyron; and the medieval villages of Auvillar
and Bruniquel, both classified amongst France’s
Most Beautiful Villages. But on this trip I’m
catching up on some recent attractions in and
around Montauban before I head north to the
Lot Valley and back to Toulouse.
For a central but quiet hotel in the heart of
town, the Hotel du Commerce ticks all my
boxes. Situated on a landscaped pedestrian
square, this good-value hotel is overlooked
by the white façade of the Cathedral.
Currently closed for restoration, this Baroque
extravaganza was commissioned by Roman
Catholic king Louis XIV as a show of power
Bourdelle bronze of Sapho outside the Theatre
after the Protestant town refused to yield to
his father, Louis XIII in the siege of 1621.
After an al fresco bistro dinner at Chez
Olympe beside the water mirror, my first stop
next day is the Ingres Bourdelle Museum
opened in December 2019 after major
refurbishment. This former Bishop’s Palace
stands on the remains of a riverside fortress
begun in 1360 during the Hundred Years War
by England’s ‘Black Prince’. Unfinished after
French forces regained the town nine years
later, the medieval hall is now an atmospheric
venue for temporary art exhibitions.
But the main focus of the collection is the
work of Montauban’s two famous artistic
sons, neo-classical painter Jean-Auguste-
Dominque Ingres – born here in 1780 – and
19 th century sculptor Antoine Bourdelle, born
1861. Originally a museum dedicated to
Ingres alone - who left 44 paintings and 4500
drawings to his hometown – this enchanting
museum houses the largest collection of his
work, as well as the second largest Bourdelle
collection after the Bourdelle Museum in
Paris. I wander from one elegant room to
another, lingering over a portrait of the young
Ingres against a backdrop of décor designed
by his father – himself a jobbing artist and
stonemason – and stopping to admire his
personal collection of antiquities portrayed in
his pictures.
Beyond the museum walls, look out for
dramatic Bourdelle bronzes as you walk
beneath the red brick facades with their pale
Beaulieu Abbey
blue shutters. The monumental war memorial
overlooking the Pont Vieux; a pensive statue
of Ulysses’ wife Penelope outside the Tourist
Office; and Greek poetess Sapho who stands
opposite the theatre dedicated to local
heroine Olympe de Gouges. Playwright and
political activist, Olympe was executed in the
Revolution for her feminist writings.
Next morning, I discover a very different
kind of art at the Abbey of Beaulieu-en-
Rouergue, tucked away up a country road
near St Antonin Noble Val. Second only in
importance to the Pompidou Centre in Paris,
76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

LE MOULIN
SUR CÉLÉ
Montauban, Place Nationale
Montauban Cathedral
this newly restored heritage building houses a
collection of modern art from after the Great
War, amassed by husband and wife collectors
Geneviève Bonnefoi and Pierre Brache.
As with the Musée Ingres-Bourdelle, Beaulieu
Abbey is another example of the French
talent for turning heritage buildings into
art museums. Now owned by Monuments
Nationaux, it reopened in 2021 after a fouryear
restoration programme that includes
a cavernous Cistercian chapel flooded with
natural light. Art journalist Geneviève and
gallery owner Pierre bought works by relatively
unknown artists and continued to support
their careers, amassing a collection of more
than 4,000 modern paintings, drawings and
sculptures. Enjoy the changing display, then
relax outside in the rose garden, still fragrant
during my October visit.
After an al fresco lunch on the terrace of Chez
Ernest on the outskirts of Montauban, popular
for its wood-fire grills and traditional local
fare, I drive south-west out of town to visit the
department’s most unusual tourist attraction.
In 1856, the Canal Lateral à la Garonne was
constructed between Toulouse and Bordeaux
to link with the Canal du Midi from Toulouse to
Sète, thus creating the Canal des Deux Mers.
But in the 1970s, locks were extended by 10
metres to accommodate larger cargo barges,
a problem at Montech where five locks occur
in just over 2.5km on the Garonne canal.
Enter engineer Jean Aubert who designed
The Pente d’Eau de Montech, an ingenious
solution using two railway locomotives to push
a volume of water uphill, thus enabling a boat
to float up the water slope. Built in 1973, it
was last used in 1993 but has now reopened
as a free immersive museum that makes a
fascinating stop on a walk or bike ride along
the Voie Verte or Green Way towpath. Pick
up the free leaflet from the waterside Tourist
Office to follow the self-guided town trail.
Back in Montauban, I have time for a last
lunch beneath the arcades of Place Nationale
at Les 5 Bouchons, a great-value small
restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide. Then I
turn north to continue my circular trip through
Cahors, Figeac and back to Toulouse.
Discover the lovely Lot Valley in the next issue
– subscribe here – for free!
Find out more about Tarn-et-Garonne at:
tourisme-tarnetgaronne.fr/en
Pente d'Eau, Montech
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78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79

Bateaux,
Janine Marsh takes a paddle boat cruise of the River Loire to the heart of the Valley
of the Kings – and beyond…
chateaux,
and gateaux
– oh my!
MS-Loire-Princesse-Loire-profil04-CroisiEurope©Goetten
My cruise of the Loire River was awash
with adventures - from riding a humongous
mechanical elephant packed with other
amazed joyriders, witnessing the birth of a
colossal cruise ship, treading in the footsteps
of French Kings and Queens, dining in the
stables of a 16 th century chateau, and going
gaga for a historic cake, and more. Much
more. All in the space of a few days.
Bateaux
CroisiEurope’s paddle ship MS Loire Princesse
is one of a handful of boats able to cruise the
Loire River, the last wild river in Europe and
the least navigable of all France’s major rivers.
The 48-cabin, 500 horsepower ship was built
specifically to operate on the Loire River at
France’s prestigious Saint-Nazaire shipyard,
our first stop on a week-long cruise. You may
not think it sounds like fun, but it was the
surprise destination of the trip for me.
The shipyard workshops at St Nazaire on the
outskirts of Nantes were established in 1861
when Scottish engineer John Scott arrived
to teach the construction of steel hulls. Now
there are 3000 employees and 3000 subcontractors
working on an area that covers
more than 100 acres. It’s one of the largest
shipyards in the world. And we’re talking BIG
ships. The Queen Mary 2 was built here as
well as The Wonder of the Seas – the world’s
biggest cruise ship. This is where they build
aircraft carriers for the French Navy, and
they are currently building a cruise ship that
will be bigger than The wonder of the Seas,
capable of carrying 9,500 passengers and
multiple stories high. The logistics and sight
of ships being born is mesmerising as vast
cranes, robots and a workforce of experts
bring boats to life.
Close by, the Museum Escal'Atlantic, in a
former German World War II submarine pen,
presents a fascinating exhibition about the
history of steamships and boat building which
includes immersive experiences like being on
the deck of an ocean liner ‘watching’ polar
bears float by on glaciers alongside frolicking
dolphins, plus you’ll exit the museum by a
boat lowered into the water – yes really!
80 | The Good Life France Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau © Debbie Spence
The Good Life France | 81

Erdre meanders past beautiful countryside
peppered with mansions and castles, a
tranquil side to the vibrant city. You can read
more about Nantes on page 40
River Erdre
Nante
Clisson
Back on board our own boat, my table group
(the crew offer to sort tables by language
spoken), had bonded straight away, after the
first night we felt like old friends. A sprightly
couple in their 80’s - Reg and Di from Kent,
UK, Brits Jane and Ian who have a holiday
home in Normandy, and Geri, an Australian
whose daughter lives in France. There was
also a group from Spain who loved to dance
and gave us Samba lessons, while the French
passengers taught us Le Rock (what the
French call Rock and Roll)!
The cruise can be as active or chilled as you
like. Relaxing on the long sun deck watching
glorious scenery pass by with a book, while
listening to the paddle wheels slosh the water
round in a heartbeat-like rhythm as we sailed,
was blissful.
Gateaux
The tour starts and ends in Nantes and no visit
to this historic city is complete without a ride
on the 12m high, eye-blinking, water-spraying
mechanical elephant from The Machines of
the Isle of Nantes. This city has culture galore,
historic districts and is worthy of more than a
day. It also has another glorious river running
through it. Smaller than the Loire, the gentle
But as a cake monster, I was bowled over
by the city’s famous cake – gateau Nantais.
Featuring rum and almonds, it’s a fairly simple
sponge with rum flavoured icing, and utterly
delicious. It was made famous throughout
France by the local Lu biscuit factory and
there’s even an annual contest among chefs
and keen cooks for the best gateau Nantais.
Nothing beats a slice of this cake with a glass
of wine. And since we toured the Muscadet
wine route and did a chateau-domaine wine
tasting of the soft, sweet Muscadet, it seemed
churlish not to marry them up! Gateau Nantais
is now one of my favourite cakes (you can find
a recipe here).
There are daily excursions and stops at ports
like historic Ancenis and charming Chalonnessur-Loire
with plenty of opportunity to get off
and wander, cycle or play petanque.
We visited the enchanting town of Clisson in the
heart of Muscadet wine country, the sound of
music filled the air as a small orchestra played
outside the Romanesque church. There is a
ruined castle, medieval market halls, and streets
festooned with colourful bunting and many
buildings have an Italian influence after the town
was rebuilt in the 18th century with the help of
architect Lemot of Lyon, after it was partially
destroyed during the Vendéen wars. All set
around a picturesque, lily-filled lake – gorgeous.
You’ll eat incredibly well on any CroisiEurope
cruise, and the Loire Princesse is no exception.
“This is living” said Di with a grin on her face
as we tucked into our daily four-course lunch
“We normally only have a sandwich; this is
what proper holidays are all about.”
Chateaux
This being the Loire Valley – chateaux are of
course de rigeur. Included on the tour are visits
to the exquisite Azay-le-Rideau, Ussé AKA the
Villandry
Usse castle
82 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 83

Angers Chateau D'Angers © JD Billaud
Sleeping Beauty castle, and Villandry which has
the most gorgeous gardens. They are three of
the most captivating and beautiful chateaux of
the region. A historian gave a lecture on board
about the chateaux of the Loire, so we visited
armed with facts and anecdotes, and the icing
on the cake was an included a gastronomic
lunch in the historic stables of Villandry, now a
stunning private restaurant area.
Plus, there are optional excursions to the
Chateau of Brissac, the tallest castle in
France at a whopping seven stories high. Or
to the Chateau of Angers, which houses one
of the most incredible tapestries in the world,
possibly second only to the Bayeux Tapestry.
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Tapestry at the Chateau of Angers
MS Loire Princesse © Michel Friz
All aboard
From the minute you step on the boat, you
don’t have to worry about a thing.
Everything is taken care of by the friendly
crew who all speak English and French. There’s
no worrying about having to drive, make a
train connection, or travel delays. There’s no
queuing to get into major sites to get tickets.
All you have to do is relax, enjoy the fabulous
food and wine, get to see the best of France,
and have a brilliant cruise.
What’s included
When you book this CroisiEurope cruise
food and drinks are included - from the fine
wines, cocktails, and spirits (except for a few
drinks like Champagne and Armagnac) to
the gourmet meals cooked by the fabulous
onboard chef. The company prides itself on
providing the best of French fare, using local
and seasonal products where possible, baking
onboard and generally spoiling guests rotten.
WiFi, some of the excursions, transport, daily
cocktail – all included.
The six-day The Loire Valley cruise operates
between April and October 2024. Call
CroisiEurope on 01756 691269 or visit
croisieurope.co.uk
Europe’s largest river
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(1) On majority of departures on French rivers. (2) Flights based on LGW-BOD with Easyjet and private airport-ship transfers. (3) Flights based on LGW-LYS with Easyjet and private return airport-ship transfers. (4) Flights
based on LGW-NTE with Easyjet and private airport-ship transfers.
All the flight-inclusive holidays are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, cruise, hotels
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84 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 85

A Pastry
fit for a
KING
The French need little encouragement
to slather their food with butter and
cheese, especially in winter. Cassoulet,
tartiflette, potatoes swimming in
melted butter, cheesy gratins, and
rich meat stews are wintry favourites.
However, if there is one dish that
captures the sentiment of winter
in France, it would be the galette
des rois – the ‘cake of kings’. A crisp
and golden masterpiece of pastry,
it is the most regal of all pâtisserie
concoctions thanks to a golden paper
crown traditionally perched on top.
The galette des rois is exclusively
winter food, and that’s not just due to
the copious amounts of butter folded
into that flaky pastry. The ‘kings’ (‘rois’)
of the title comes from the three kings
visiting baby Jesus at the beginning
of January – also known as Epiphany
in the Christian calendar. After
Christmas and New Year when you’re
full to bursting with oysters and foie
gras, the beginning of the year can
feel somewhat lacklustre. Galettes des
rois are the ideal post-Christmas treat
and eating them is popular through the whole
of January.
There are two types of Galettes des rois.
Particularly in the north of France they are big
flat pies made with flaky pastry and filled with
creamy almond paste or frangipane enriched
with crème pâtissiere. They are also known
and sold as pithiviers during the rest of the
year, so don’t worry if you miss out in winter,
the party can be rescheduled. However, it’s
only in winter that these plate-sized pastries
are given the title of the cake of kings and
sport a crown.
In the south, particularly in Provence, the
dessert is more festive-looking and made from
brioche. This is topped with sticky candied
fruits and pearl sugar and filled with cream
flavoured with orange blossom. It’s called
the ‘brioche des rois’, or ‘coca’ in the original
Occitan language.
The name ‘galette’ is not limited to this flaky
pithivier – it’s a catch-all term that means
something flat and round such as galettes de
sarrasin, the iconic buckwheat crêpes from
the Brittany.
Even though they are traditionally consumed
on or around January 6th, boulangeries start
selling galettes des rois as soon as winter
begins. Sun-shaped thanks to its association
with the winter solstice, it’s the must-eat
dessert of the season. Traditionally eaten for
more 700 years, the galette des rois is part of
the French culinary landscape just as much as
the baguette. During the French Revolution,
kings cakes were called Gâteau de l’egalité,
the cake of equality as anything with a royal
connotation being frowned upon.
There is a unique tradition associated with
this dessert. Hidden inside every galette des
rois is a small charm, a fève. The origin of
the cake may go back as far as the Roman
86 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 87

https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
times when worshippers of the God Saturn
ate together for one day a year – be they
slave or master. In the 14th century monks in
Besancon, Lorraine, eastern France appointed
their leader by putting a gold coin in a loaf of
bread, he who got the coin won the job. Over
time the bread became brioche or galette
with a bean and the wider French population
adopted the cakes as an annual treat. Little
porcelain figures of Jesus then replaced the
bean, though during the French Revolution
they were not permitted and a Phrygian cap,
a symbol of freedom, was popular. These days
porcelain and plastic charms feature not just
religious figures but animals, shoes, handbags,
and celebrities of all kinds from Lady Gaga to
Bart Simpson. They’re popular as collectors’
items too – a 16-year-old girl from Dordogne
recently featured in a newspaper with her
collection of 10,000 fèves!
When it’s time to get stuck into the cake, the
whole family gathers around the table, and
the youngest member hides underneath and
chooses who receives which slice thereby
ensuring there is no favouritism! This is called
the ‘tirage des rois’ – the drawing of kings. The
person who gets the charm (and you need to
be careful not to choke on it or break a tooth),
becomes le roi or la reine for the day and
wears the paper crown.
However there is one person who is not
allowed to take part in the ceremony. The
President of France is prohibited from eating
a galette des rois with a fève inside. According
to rules made during the French Revolution,
the country can have a president but no king!
Maybe the galette des rois’ endurance of 700
merry years, no matter how buttery, rich and
delicious it is, is simply because it’s an excuse
to be a king for just one day.
Want to make a traditional northern Frenchstyle
galette des rois at home – click here
for a delicious recipe on the Good Life
France website: thegoodlifefrance/
recipegalettedesrois
88 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 89

Rodin's Burghers of Calais
dining restaurants to seafood sensations, cosy
little cafés and delicious bistros. And. There be
dragons here. The colossal passenger-carrying
Calais dragon is a jaw-dropping sight, creating
one of the strangest and most captivating free
street art performances in Europe…
Bewitching beasties,
boulangeries and
bistros of CALAIS
Meet a dragon on the beach and indulge
in the lip-smacking cuisine of Calais, the
port city at the tip of northern France.
Janine Marsh finds a land of surprises…
Calais is the perfect destination for a
weekend, day trip or city break. There’s plenty
to do and see from museums to memorial
sites. The city beach, Calais la Plage (Calais
by the sea) has had a massive makeover and is
now one of the finest seaside destinations on
the already gorgeous Opal Coast of northern
France. The food is fabulous – from refined
The Calais Dragon
Barely a stone’s throw from Auguste Rodin’s
monumental sculpture – the Burghers of
Calais, depicting the surrendering of the keys
of the besieged city of Calais to the English
King Edward III in 1347, which resides outside
the city’s town hall with its UNESCO-listed
75m belfry - lives a dragon. His glass fronted
lair looks over the English Channel towards the
White Cliffs of Dover, which are visible from
this stretch of the coast on a clear day. And
daily he roams the seafront.
The dragon is a mesmerising sight. At a
whopping 82 feet long and 40 feet high, you
certainly can’t miss him. He breathes fire. He
spits dragon snot, sneezes, snorts and swings
his tail. He bats his eye lids and roars. He
flaps his 57 feet long wings. And he carries
up to 50 passengers on a magical journey,
guided by ‘machinists.’ Designed by François
Delarozière, the genius behind the Machines
de l’ile de Nantes, the Dragon of Calais is
the most imposing of the company’s famous
mechanical menagerie to date. Unforgettably,
incredibly weird and wonderful.
And he’s not alone. A 13 feet long iguana lives
close by. And there are plans for these two
90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91

Calais LA Plage 6 © Fred Collier
Calais old port
mechanical marvels to be joined by a gang
of lizards who will carry passengers to and
from iconic sites in this surprising city – quite
possibly the weirdest public transport system
in the world and definitely one of the most
street art rich cities in Europe!
Book online for your ride on the dragon
at: compagniedudragon.com/en
Indulge …
Ogling and riding dragons is hungry work.
Luckily Calais is brimming with tempting
bistros, boulangeries and patisseries.
There’s one cake you must try when you go to
Calais – Le Calais! Almost every cake shop
sells them, a meringue, almond and coffee
buttercream concoction and in Les Attaques,
a village on the outskirts of Calais you’ll find
Boulangerie Dejonghe Pére et fils, two-time
winners of the best Le Calais cake contest!
Another speciality is the rond de St Nicolas
– though you’ll only see that in shops in
Le Welsh
November and December as it’s a traditional
Christmas biscuit with a white icing top
decorated with a pink N.
Fancy something a bit more robust? It would
be churlish of cheese lovers not to indulge in
a local speciality – Le Welsh. And if you’re
thinking that doesn’t sound very French –
you’re right! It’s said to have been created in
1544 by a Welsh garrison of King Henry VIII’s
92 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 93

5
great restaurants in Calais
I know, I know – a lot of choice but all of these restaurants offer utterly mouth-watering
dishes, and everyone one of them has a less then €30 menu of 2 dishes or more.
army. Besieging the city of Boulogne, they
were installed on Mont Lambert overlooking
the town and after three months of resistance,
their supplies ran low. Down to some wedges
of Somerset cow’s cheese, they came up with
the idea to melt the cheese, mix it with beer
and pour it over stale bread. To this day it’s a
favourite dish in the north of France!
You could also pop to the Dragon’s
restaurant next to his lair. Enjoy breakfast,
lunch and aperitifs (including cocktails
such as the Dragon des Mers which packs a
Tequila Punch, and Dragon des Airs, a fruity
alcohol free delight), at L’Antre du Dragon,
restaurant, café, bar. It’s also the perfect
place for Sunday brunch.
And for those who want a taste of exquisite
French cuisine – you’ll find a huge choice of
quality restaurants and gourmet food shops.
Over the last decade, more and more chefs
have been finding renewed passion and
energy for local produce, and the rejuvenation
of the town has seen a plethora of new
restaurants open.
For a gastronomic meal, head to Restaurant
Le Channel at 3 Boulevard de la Résistance,
This part of Calais has a bit of a fishing
village vibe with small boats bobbing in the
old harbour, but you can still see the huge
ferries float majestically by, shuttling millions
of passengers each year between Calais
and Dover. Run by the Crespo family, Le
Channel has been a favourite with locals and
savvy Brits for some 40 years, in fact I know
regular visitors who time their trips to stop for
lunch or dinner there. The oysters and locally
caught fresh fish dishes are legendary, whilst
gastronomes swoon over the sweet cart,
everything made by the onsite patisserie chef,
and the cheese cloche has been known to
make some sigh out loud with happiness.
At Le Grand Bleu chef Matthieu Colin has
been making waves with his inventive freshoff-the-boat
fish dishes and a meaty festival of
flavours. Everything served is entirely homemade
from bread to ice cream.
For something with a traditional French feel
L’Histoire Ancienne in Rue
Royale (one of the best
shopping streets in town for
foodies) is scrumptious. Chef
Patrick Comtale’s menu
packs a lip-smacking punch –
with dishes like farmer’s pork
marinated Picon beer with
devil’s sauce!
Aquar’Aile, this restaurant has
fabulous, panoramic views
over the Channel and classic
French dishes including
superb oysters, and a daily
vegetarian dish.
Au Côte d’Argent, 1 Digue
Gaston Berthe, is close to
the dragon’s lair. With its light airy seaside
vibe and gasp-worthy presentation (seafood
lovers will definitely want the assiette
de fruits de mer) and a great range of
vegetarian dishes.
Le Channel - Les Grandes Tables restaurant
is within the Calais theatre
Yours truly at the sweet
trolley Le Channel complex. Using local,
restaurant
organic and seasonal
products, the décor has
a post-industrial vibe.
There’s also a bistro with
features designed by none
other than the Calais
dragon’s creator François
Delarozière!
This historic city really is full
of surprises – and it’s utterly
delicious!
Discover heaps more to see
and do in Calais and the
Opal Coast:
calais-cotedopale.co.uk
94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

Calais town hall
Musee des Beaux Arts
5 must-sees
in Calais
La Cite De La Dentelle Et De La Mode De
Calais – a museum dedicated to fashion
and the famous lace produced in the area.
Allow at least two hours to discover the vast
galleries.
Visit the town hall Calais Town Hall, a
flamboyant and outstanding example of
Flemish architecture. Visit the room where
President Charles de Gaulle married Calaisian
Yvonne Vendroux in 1921.
From the top of the 75m Belfry attached to
the Town Hall, you’ll have fabulous views over
Calais and the English Channel.
Got some stamina left? Climb the 271 steps of
Calais lighthouse for more stunning views.
The Calais Musée des Beaux Arts has a
permanent exhibition dedicated to Rodin
as well as a collection of paintings, art and
local heritage.
96 | The Good Life France
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Amy Bizzarri explores the incredible history behind one of Bordeaux’s most storied
wine estates.
Château Magnol features all the elements of
the classic French Château: Winding corridors
lead to elegantly appointed chambers.
Museum-worthy paintings. Vases brim with
fragrant blooms plucked from the garden.
In the kitchen, a chef chops herbs plucked
from beds just outside the window. A long
dining room table set with silver and the
finest china invites long, drawn-out meals and
conversation. A roaring fireplace creates the
perfect, cozy ambiance for dessert cordials.
A vast cellar is stocked with bottles waiting
anxiously to be uncorked.
Adorned with wisteria and trellised red roses
and surrounded by endless vineyards, the 18thcentury
estate, home of Barton & Guestier,
the oldest wine house still in operation in
Bordeaux, exudes elegance.
The Barton & Guestier story begins over
300 years ago, in 1722, when Irishman
Thomas Barton (1695–1780) left his home
in Curraghmore, County Fermanagh, and
settled in Bordeaux, determined to found
a wine estate of his very own. By 1725, he
was sending barrels and bottles of the finest
Bordeaux wines via the high seas to his wineloving
customers in Northern Europe, having
earned the nickname “French Tom” as the
port city's go-to merchant.
The business remained in the Barton family
until French Tom’s grandson, Hugo Barton,
teamed up with Frenchman Daniel Guestier in
the late 1700s.
Together, Barton and Guestier sourced wines
from the best vineyards in Bordeaux, aged
them in their cellars, and then loaded them
onto ships that sailed off along the Garonne
River and across the ocean.
Ahead of his times, ever-entrepreneurial
Guestier opened a trade office in Baltimore,
Maryland. And none other than U.S. President
Thomas Jefferson, who once declared, «Good
wine is a necessity of life for me,» was among
the duo’s first clients.
Jefferson had joined John Adams and Benjamin
Franklin in Paris in 1784, where he eventually
succeeded Franklin as Minister to France (1785-
1789) before becoming Secretary of State.
Like most early Americans, before his stint in
France, he indulged in sweet, heavy wines from
the Iberian peninsula. His tastes changed after
he toured Bordeaux and indulged in France’s
finest vintages. “The taste of this country was
artificially created by our long restraint under
the English government to the strong wines
of Portugal and Spain,” he later remarked on
America’s penchant for Madeira and port.
BORDEAUX’S
oldest wine house
Amy Bizzarri explores the incredible history behind one of
Bordeaux’s most storied wine estates.
98 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 99

Upon his return to Virginia in 1795, he placed
an order for 250 bottles of Bordeaux, 120
bottles of Sauternes, 60 bottles of Frontignan,
and 60 bottles of white Hermitage. The cellar
of his Monticello home brimmed with the
finest of Bordeaux wines.
During his presidency, Jefferson was a wine
connoisseur par excellence, hosting three winefueled
dinner parties in the White House each
week. He was also the first president to equip
the White House with an adequate wine cellar.
Of his $25,000 annual salary, he spent $3,200
on wine alone during his first year in office.
Though he was well into his retirement in 1818,
Jefferson was alarmed and took immediate
action when some members of the federal
government suggested a higher tariff on
wine imports, noting in a letter to Treasury
Secretary William H. Crawford, “I think it a
great error to consider a heavy tax on wines
as a tax on luxury. On the contrary, it is a tax
on the health of our citizens. It is a legislative
direction that none but the richest of them
shall be permitted to drink wine….”
Built at the beginning of the 1700’s, the
château Magnol in Blanquefort, just a few
kilometers from the heart of Bordeaux city,
was inspired by an ancient Gallo-Roman villa.
Situated in the Haut-Médoc appellation, it’s
surrounded by 30 hectares of Haute Valeur
Environnementale vineyards. (HVE is a French
agricultural certification that recognizes a
commitment to protecting and enriching the
environment through responsible, conservationminded
practices). Its magnificent underground
cellar houses an extraordinary collection of
almost 20,000 bottles.
The underground cellar, however, conceals a
dark history.
During the Second World War, when German
troops reached Bordeaux on June 28, 1940,
they took over the Château and made it the
headquarters of their naval operations (an
occupation that would last until August 1944).
The wine cellar served as their bunker.
In 1942, Winston Churchill launched
Operation Frankton, described by British
Admiral Louis Mountbatten as a “brilliant
little operation carried through with great
determinism and courage...”. On December 7,
13 Royal Marines planned to paddle nearly 70
miles up the Gironde Estuary in 6 collapsible
canvas kayaks to the port of Bordeaux. Just
two kayaks made it all the way, where they
attached mines to Japan-bound German ships
loaded with arms.
Only two of the soldiers survived. One brave
Royal Marine was executed at the Château.
A small memorial adjacent to the bunker
stands in his honor, and an annual ceremony
celebrates his valiant efforts. The tale of
Operation Frankton featured in the 1955 film
The Cockleshell Heroes.
Today, sommeliers from around the world
visit Château Magnol’s B&G Food & Wine
Academy to learn about the French AOC
system and wine tasting techniques under
the supervision of Master Sommelier
Omar Barbosa.
Photo credit: Bill of lading for casks of wine shipped by United States Consul
from Lisbon, Portugal, William Jarvis to President Thomas Jefferson. Cases
of wine shipped to Alexandria, Virginia. The bill of lading accompanies a
letter between the frequent correspondents Jarvis and Jefferson. The Thomas
Jefferson Papers, Series 1, General Correspondence, The Library of Congress,
Washington, D.C.
100 | The Good Life France 101 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 101

Discover a snowy Paradise and familyfriendly
ski resort in the heart of the
French Alps says Janine Marsh.
When the first stone was laid to create a
new resort in the heart of the French Alps
Paradiski area, the world’s second largest ski
area, Arc 1950 was way ahead of its time.
The pioneering, innovative concept of a
pedestrianised ski resort, entirely ski-in-skiout,
with harmonised architecture in an area
chosen to limit its impact on the local nature
but giving access to 425km of slopes, was
considered cutting edge. As it reaches its
20th anniversary, Arc 1950 in Savoie is now
considered to be one of the most stunning ski
villages in the world, and a ground-breaking
model that’s inspired a slew of ski resorts.
High altitude, snow sure
Les rennes du Père Noël © Prestige Photos
Arc 1950 is a standout ski resort for all
powder hounds. The ‘1950’ represents the
resort’s height of metres above sea level
making it one of the highest ski villages in
Europe. And that kind of altitude means
snow cover at resort level is the norm from
the start of the season in early December
right through to the end of April. The slopes
rise to 3250 metres above sea level, with
permanently snow-covered peaks, and to
make sure there’s plenty of quality snow,
there’s an extensive snowmaking network
in place.
ARC 1950
celebrates
20 years of
mountain
magic
© Andy Parant
© Andy Parant
You’ll find a vast range of winter activities from
skiing, snowboarding, cross country skiing,
heli-skiing, husky-riding, snow parks, toboggan
runs and much more.
The pretty, low-rise village facing majestic
Mont Blanc, wraps around a central, carfree
plaza, with an off-shoot of the Baptiste
Giabiconi blue piste running right through
the middle. As a result, it offers almost
instant access to the snow from every one
of its eight ski in/out residences – all of
which have a 5-Star rating. You can start
skiing as soon as you’ve snapped your boot
buckles shut!
102 | The Good Life France
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Family friendly
The ski-in-ski-out residences are connected by
path and piste in the car-free resort, creating
a safe environment for families to walk in the
snowy village streets. Two ski schools mean
that all levels and ages are catered for. There’s
free year-round entertainment for the whole
family. In winter enjoy the ski shows, cookery
workshops, concerts, illuminations and more.
In summer there are organised games, tennis,
workshops, shows, concerts and more. And at
Christmas there’s a magical parade, fireworks,
music, concerts, singing and dancing, the
perfect way to end the year.
For Arc 1950’s 20th birthday there will be
even more entertainment including snow
sculpture workshops, and the introduction of
a biathlon and scooter race on the snow.
At this resort the service is a notch above
the usual. They don’t just sort out rental
equipment and ski passes, they can provide
help with babysitters, children’s clubs and
activities for hard-to-please teens. You can
order shopping in advance, (there are plenty
of shops), and have it delivered to your
apartment, and even put away in the fridge –
ready for your arrival and a brilliantly relaxing
holiday right from the start.
Art de vivre and
fabulous food
© Andy Parant
© Andy Parant
© Andy Parant
Cariboo's club © Andy Parant
pool, outdoor heated pool, hammam, sauna,
Jacuzzi, even a thalassotherapy spa, this
luxury resort offers the perfect way to unwind,
relax and rejuvenate – and all of the eight
residences in Arc have wellness areas and
sports amenities worthy of one of France’s top
luxury mountain resorts.
Eco conscious
Arc 1950’s eco credentials go way beyond
the car-free approach. Quiet zones have
been created to protect birds. The resort also
practices recycling, and they are planning
a composting project. Plus the resort holds
a ‘Flocon Vert’ green label awarded for
proactive sustainable development.
And if you want to eat out, you’ll find there
are lots of lovely cafés and restaurants which
are all ski to the door. Sit on a sunny terrace
and soak up the glorious sights, chill in front
of a crackling log fire, tuck into mountain
specialities - the local favourite “Le Chausson
du Boulanger” (a sort of Savoyard pie, made
with cabbage, sour cream, Beaufort cheese
and sausage) is a must. Although, you may
never fit into your salopettes again!
There’s an authentic ‘village’ feel to Arc
1950 which gives it real charm, alongside
loads of fantastic facilities. Indoor swimming
© Andy Parant
© Andy Parant
Easy access by train,
plane or car
If you arrive by car, you can leave it in the
underground car park and from here there is
direct access to your accommodation. The
nearest airport is Chambery, but Geneva,
Lyon and Grenoble are also good choices.
For those arriving in Bourg Saint Maurice by
train and funicular railway, free shuttle buses
run to Arc 1950.
Details: arc1950.com
104 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 105

Provence Flassan
Day trips and tour packages all over
France, plus brilliant shore excursions
Ophorus Tours are a French family run
business with a huge choice of tours from fun
and informative guided walking city tours to
very carefully crafted multi regional packages,
wine tasting, cycling and themed tours all over
France as well as day trips from Paris. Their
aim is to show you France as they believe it
should be shown – authentic, colourful and
friendly. ophorus.com
food and wines and fabulous excursions that
transport you to the heart of France. There’s
no worrying about having to drive, make a
train connection or travel delays. There’s no
queuing for tickets to major sites. All you have
to do is relax, enjoy the wonderful gastronomy,
and get to see the best of France – in style.
There are a fabulous range of cruises in
France by barge and boat (even a paddle
ship on the Loire), including Paris, (from 2
days to 7 days, departure point near the
Eiffel Tower) that take in the city sights.
Also starting from Paris are several cruises
including to Normandy - Honfleur, Rouen and
Giverny where you’ll visit Claude Monet’s
house and garden; a romantic sites cruise,
taking in castles, authentic medieval villages,
historic sites and fabulous museums; French
Impressionism cruise taking in the artists’
favourite haunts; and Oise Valley cruise.
Utterly irresistible… croisieurope.co.uk
Paris © Wazim
Inspiration for your
travels to France in 2024
If you’re planning a visit to France – we’ve handpicked the best tours with the most
scrumptious food and wine, tours that let you experience France like a local and that
will give you cherished memories to last a lifetime…
Tours for those who love the authentic
Discover southern France - from captivating
Carcassonne to magical Montpellier and the
postcard-pretty blooming lovely lavender
fields of Provence, as well as Normandy,
Bordeaux and Dordogne. On these luxury,
small group tours you’ll get to experience
France like a local, indulge in the best
gastronomy and wine, and discover the beauty
and culture of France... tripusafrance.com
Battlefield tours and historical
travel experiences
Tailor-made historical travel experiences by
a family-run specialist tour operator creates
exceptional WWI and WWII battlefields tours
across France, Belgium and the Netherlands.
Sophie’s Great War Tours will research
the history and background of soldiers so
that each battlefield tour is a personal
historical experience. Add on experiences
to suit you, such as chateau visits in the
Loire, Champagne tastings in Champagne
or a classic car tour in Provence. Every
itinerary is designed to be perfect – for you.
sophiesgreatwartours.com
CroisiEurope – the very best cruises
in France
CroisiEurope are the largest cruise operator
in France, and their tours are unbeatable.
Sail France’s rivers and canals and the
Mediterranean Sea. Discover the culture,
gastronomy and cultural wealth of France.
Enjoy all-inclusive life onboard with the finest
Monet Giverny August Lynn Michaela
Culture & cookery tours in Provence
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes
where you’ll cook authentic French dishes.
Shop at enchanting street markets with chefs,
and dine at the most scrumptious restaurants
in beautiful towns of Provence on this fully
escorted, small group delicious and cultural
trip of a lifetime. goutetvoyage.com
Immersion courses in the most beautiful
places in France
SL Immersion offer French immersion courses
in several areas. There are tailor-made lessons
to suit each guest, you’ll stay in the home of a
fully qualified and experienced tutor, and learn
106 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 107

eal French the way it’s spoken in France.
You’ll quickly improve your French, and you’ll
also have an unforgettable cultural experience
with activities, cooking classes, sightseeing,
wine tasting etc. slimmersion-france.com
Loire Valley Bike Tours – the very best way
to travel
One of the best ways to visit the castles,
vineyards, pretty little villages, historic towns
and gorgeous gardens of the Loire Valley is
on two wheels… Loire Brakes guided tours
are relaxing (e-bikes provided), you’ll stay in
a fabulously renovated comfortable and cosy
farmhouse and visit the very best of the Loire
Valley with local guides Denise and Kevin. A
superb slow travel experience for those who
like to discover real France and enjoy the most
fabulous food and wine. loirebrakes.com
Cycling holiday Loire Valley
‘Real’ South of France Tours
Occitanie – formerly Languedoc-Roussillon
and Midi-Pyrenees – is to many the real
south of France. It’s a land of hidden gems,
postcard-pretty villages, historic giants like
Carcassonne, and of lush vineyards where
some of the very best wines in France are
produced (tastings are included on the tours!).
Take a 7-day, fully inclusive, small group
guided tour, stay in an award-winning B&B,
dine at hand-picked restaurants and discover
the heart of this area and its innermost,
delicious and fascinating secrets. Discover
real France with ‘Real’ South of France Tours.
realsouthoffrancetours.fr
Carcassonne real south of france
Immersive French courses in Burgundy
10-day French immersion stays in Burgundy
that will have you learning French in a
fabulous and fun way. Stay in a gorgeous
luxury chateau, experience the real French
way of life, culture and gastronomy. Cooking
lessons, wine tasting and guided tours by
experts alongside lessons tailored to your level
with friendly, qualified teachers make this a
truly outstanding experience. lapont.com
Year round themed and bespoke small
group tours of Provence
Small group tours and customized travelling to
give you memories to last a lifetime. Discover
the best of Provence: Lavender tours (there’s
still room on the lavender and culture tour),
truffle, grape harvest, and bespoke tours as
well as chauffeur services for day trips or a
lot longer. Emily Durand’s Private Provence
tours are unique, exclusive and truly fabulous.
yourprivateprovence.com
Luxury tours of Gascony, the Basque
country, Provence and southern France
Nourish your soul and unleash your spirit of
adventure on tours that feature the famous
food, wine and Armagnac of Gascony, and
discover where to find the best antique
shops and flea markets, the most beautiful
villages and magnificent chateaux. From
one day to week-long tours that are
customised for you. Plus tours of Provence,
southern France and the Basque country.
frenchcountryadventures.com
Luxury Holidays Cottages**** and Classic
Car Tours, SW France
Cottages & Classics offer a range of options
for holidays in a former 19th century Cognac
Domaine in SW France. Choose from luxury
self-catering holiday cottages, B&B mini
breaks or bespoke, escorted fully catered
tours for small groups of 4-12 guests. The
“Cottages & Classics Experience” also
includes the use of a 4 seater Morgan, perfect
for touring the beautiful Charente & Charente
Maritime regions through rolling vineyards, the
historic towns of Cognac & Angouleme, the
Atlantic beaches, La Rochelle and beautiful
Ile de Ré. cottagesandclassics.com
Gascony
Cottages and Classics
The best places to stay
Where you stay is as important as where
you go, so if you’re dreaming of a chateau
stay, a gorgeous gite or a stunning B&B, here
are some of the best, most welcoming and
charming places to stay in France…
Moulin sur Célé
The ultimate getaway in the most beautiful
part of France
In the Lot region, southwest France you will
find a magical place – the Moulin sur Célé,
a spectacularly restored 14th century water
mill in 25 acres of glorious countryside in the
Célé Valley, one of the most beautiful parts of
France. The restored Miller’s House and The
Tower, with gorgeous gardens and pool offer
luxurious relaxation at its best. Surrounded
by landscapes of hypnotic beauty, activities
galore, pickled in the past postcard-pretty
villages and close to historic Cahors, famous
for its marvellous Malbec wine and world class
108 | The Good Life France
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gastronomy. France at its very best and most
authentic. Lemoulinsurcele.com
Champagne House
Pinch-yourself-pretty luxury boutique B&B
in the Gers
Stunningly restored mansion house, now a
Champagne themed elegant luxury boutique
B&B, or full house rental in the heart of historic
Condom in glorious Gers. Champagne House
also hosts writing and French language
retreats plus themed stays. This is the
perfect base for touring the area with its
endless vineyards, chateaux and magnificent
fortified towns. And of course, a glass of
bubbly will be served with a warm welcome.
Champagnehouse.fr
La Maison des Chaumes
Sweet gite in a wine making village
in Burgundy
La Maison des Chaumes is a charming gite
in the winemaking village of Villers-la-Faye
in the Côte de Nuits. It’s minutes away from
Burgundy’s crown jewel - historic Beaune,
and just up the hill from the famed vineyards
of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Aloxe-Corton.
lamaisondeschaumes.com
Majestic B&B near Bergerac,
Chateau Masburel
With honey-toned stone walls and sagegreen
shutters, the 18th century Chateau de
Masburel wine domain and award-winning
B&B, and gorgeous gite opening this year, has
a timeless, unhurried feel to it. It’s a working
winery producing award winning wines. Close
to Bergerac, Saint-Emilion and ten minutes
from the bastide town of Sainte-Foy-la-
Grande on the banks of the River Dordogne
in the Gironde. it’s the perfect base to explore
the area and enjoy a delicious and relaxing
break. Chateau-masburel.com
Chateau Masburel
Cognac no. 22 – luxury farmhouse in
Charente-Maritime
In a charming village, surrounded by fields
of golden sunflowers, lush green vineyards
and truffle forests, Gite No. 22, a beautifully
restored 19th century traditional farmhouse
with a luxurious heated pool, is utterly lovely.
Ideally situated for the historic towns of
Cognac, St Jean d ‘Angely, Saintes and the
Atlantic Coast beaches. Quintessentially
French markets, traffic free cycle routes (bikes
provided for guests), delicious bistros, distillery
visits, glorious countryside – what are you
waiting for? Cognac-no22.com
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110 | The Good Life France Cognac No. 22
The Good Life France | 111

Your Photos
Saint-Remy de Provence,
Emily Durand
Bistros, boutiques and
beautiful streets make
Saint-Remy-de-Provence
alluringly lovely. It’s a
town that’s rich in history,
with Roman remains and
close to the Saint-Paul-de-
Mausole sanatorium where
Van Gogh lived for a year.
Read about Saint-Remyde-Provence
Every weekend we invite you to share
your photos on Facebook and X (formerly
Twitter) – it’s a great way for everyone to
“see” real France and be inspired by real
travellers snapping pics as they go. Every
week there are utterly gorgeous photos
being shared, and here we showcase just
a few of the most popular. Share your
favourite photos with us and the most
‘liked’ will appear in the next issue of The
Good Life France Magazine.
Bormes-les-Mimosas, Ron-Jo Warren
The colourful and flower filled little town on the
edge of the French Riviera is a year-round delight,
surrounded by glorious countryside
Discover three lovely villages on the
French Riviera
Annecy, Garry Deane
The Venice of the French Alps, a medieval town
crisscrossed by narrow canals, on the edge of a
pure blue lake with a mountain backdrop – what’s
not to love…
Read our ultimate guide to Annecy
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112 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 113

What’s
NEW
winter 2023-2024
The winter season in France is
buzzing with festive sparkle as
Christmas markets are held cross
the whole country from the end
of November to early January In
February and March it’s carnival
season– plus there’s plenty more
going on!
Here are just a few of the major
events this winter:
Calais: 2-4 February 2024. Pas de
Calais Wine and Food Fair. A weekend
extravaganza at the Forum Gambetta.
Wine producers from all over France
converge to present their wares supported
by regional food producers. Get free tickets
and a personal tasting glass here:
salon-des-vignerons.com
Alpes Maritimes: Provence-Alpes-Côte
d’Azur Mimosa Festival 8-12 February
2023. Spring is in the air and in Mandelieu-
La-Napoule millions of sweet-smelling
Mimosa flowers, known as “yellow suns”,
bloom. Parades, processions, singing and
dancing, this joyous event signals the end of
winter in the south of France.
Mandelieu-tourisme.com
Nice carnival
Christmas markets and events
Discover loads of information about the Christmas markets, Christmas lights, festive food
and events in France in our Ultimate Guide to Christmas in France on The Good Life France
website: thegoodlifefrance.com/ultimateguidetochristmasinfrance
Enjoy our podcast on Christmas in France!
Picardy: Parc Asterix theme park (35km north of Paris) opens from 23 December – 7 January
2023 and puts on a Christmas show including circus acts, illusion, and Santa’s Village. Find out
more: parcasterix.fr/en
Lyon: Festival of Lights From 10-12
December, the people of Lyon will, as they
have since 1852, light candles and put them
in the windows of their homes and the city
puts on a spectacular light show. It all started
when the residents of Lyon placed candles
in coloured glasses on their windowsills
to celebrate the installation of a statue
of the Virgin Mary on the Fourvière Hill.
fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr/en
Dordogne: Sarlat Truffle Festival, A big
truffle market tales place mid-January
in the enchanting medieval town of
Sarlat, Dordogne. Expect to indulge in
truffle flavoured gourmet specialities,
music and festivities including
workshops. And take home a couple of
truffles, you can get them at a good
price at the market. Details:
sarlat-tourisme.com
Borme les Mimosas Francine Varner
Nice: Nice Carnival 17 Feb-3 Mar, 2024. Processions, flower parades and flower
battles, rock, pop, fireworks, and giants. Over a million people flock to Nice to join
in the fun heralding the start of spring. One of the most glamorous of all the French
carnivals. nicecarnaval.com
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

Jessica Viel - Loire Valley
Helena Hermanns - Paris/Île-de-France
Emma Horsfall - Alpes
Start a
new career
as an
independent
sales agent
Joanna Dalet
Midi-Pyrénées
Andrew Guck - Occitanie
Scan for more information
Menton Lemon Festival , Ville de Menton
Menton: Provence-Alpes-Côte
d’Azur, Lemon Festival of Menton 17 Feb
– 3 Mar, 2024. This amazing fruity festival
features immense structures built with
thousands of lemons and oranges. It’s one
of the most popular festivals in the region
and attracts many thousands of visitors
from all over the world. fete-du-citron.com
2024
Spring starts 20 March, 2024 – don’t miss
the spring issue of The Good Life France
Magazine – subscribe here for free!
SUBSCRIBE
Anne-Sophie and Nynke
Nouvelle-Aquitaine
Join our team in France and become part of a
company unique in it’s field!
If you would like the freedom to grow a successful business supported
by an award winning team, please contact our recruitment department:
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+33 (0)5 53 60 82 77 recruitment@leggett.fr
Paris carousel christmas
116 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 117

French Lesson:
Tu – or Vous?
Financial Advice
for Expats in
France
When it comes to learning French, one of the questions that comes up over and over
is – how do you know whether to say tu, or vous? Manon Dewitte of French Coffee
Break explains…
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in the UK or the U.S., or are starting fresh
in France, Beacon Global Wealth
Management will guide you through the
unique complexities of financial planning
as an expat.
Our team of experienced financial
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Although tu and vous both mean you – they’re
to be used in different situations.
Tu – is for informal situations – like when
you’re talking to friends or family – but not all
family! For instance when talking to your inlaws
it’s common to use vous.
If you use ‘tu’ in the wrong circumstances
– it can easily be taken as you being a bit
disrespectful.
Use ‘vous’ instead of ‘tu’ and that too can
seem wrong – maybe unfriendly.
Vouvoyer: To talk using ‘vous’ is called to
vouvoyer in French. It’s for when you’re having
a formal conversation, or talking to people you
don’t know, teachers, older people or those in
authority.
Tutoyer: Talk using ‘tu’ is tutoyer in French. If
you met someone for the first time and used
‘vous’ you can move onto ‘tu’ infact you can
even suggest ‘shall we tutoyer’ if you’re not
sure!
Tu is for friends, family (except occasionally
when talking to elders, some families practice
vous), when you’re talking to children, and
colleagues.
So how do you know which to use?
118 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 119

It’s always best to play it safe if you’re not sure
and use ‘vous’. The person you’re talking to
can always say ‘let’s tutoyer, let’s use tu’ (Tu
peux me tutoyer ! Tutoie-moi !) Or you can ask
them – shall we use tu/Can I say tu to you?
(On se tutoie ? Je peux te tutoyer ?)
You shouldn’t mix tu and vous in the same
sentence. So for instance if you ask someone
for help, and use the expression for please,
keep to informal or formal.
Excuse-moi, tu peux m’aider, s’il te plaît ?”
or
Excusez-moi, vous pouvez m’aider, s’il vous
plaît ?
Et toi?
And, just for a little frisson of complication –
there’s also ‘toi’! We French are famous for our
grammar rules and they can seem complex,
but once you know how it all works, everything
slots into place.
Take ‘toi’ – which also means you. Like ‘tu’
but in some circumstances we use ‘toi’.
Tu is used as a direct subject for instance
‘comment-vas-tu’ – how are you.
Toi is indirect, and follows a verb or
preposition for instance with, of or for. For
example ‘je voyage avec toi’ (I am travelling
with you). Or commonly when you ask
someone how they are they might say ‘je
vais bien. Et toi?’
Unlike ‘tu’ and ‘vous’, ‘tu’ and ‘toi’ can
appear in the same sentence: Moi, je suis
française et toi, tu es Anglais. Me, I am
French and you, you are English. In French
you use ‘moi’ et ‘toi’ to emphasise the
subject – but it’s not mandatory.
It can take a little practice to get it right, but
practice makes perfect right?!
Want to practice and improve your French
then join Manon’s French Coffee Break
classes – vous will be speaking French in no
time: frenchcoffeebreak.com/en
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your first course:
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120 | The Good Life France
frenchcoffeebreak.com
The Good Life France | 121

Riviera HOTSPOTS
The French Riviera is famous for its sunshine,
Mediterranean lifestyle, fabulous cuisine and
glamorous seaside resorts – and it certainly
lives up to the hype. We asked the local agents
at award winning Leggett Immobillier to tell us
some of their favourite locations.
Villefranche-sur-Mer,
Alpes Maritimes
Four towns make up the ‘Golden Square’ of
the French Riviera: Éze, St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat,
Beaulieu-sur-Mer and Villefranche-sur-Mer,
a town with a ‘lively but discreet atmosphere.
It’s a must-visit destination for well-heeled and
discerning sun lovers says agent Dan Norris.
The horseshoe-shaped bay of Villefranche
is overlooked by private villas nestling
amongst umbrella pine trees on the cliff top.
There are sandy beaches, a pretty port and
cobbled streets leading to the water’s edge.
There’s plenty going on year-round, excellent
restaurants and a terraced café lifestyle even
in winter.
Properties in Villefranche-sur-Mer & the
‘Golden Square’
Gulf of Saint-Tropez, Var
The Gulf of Saint-Tropez features picturesque,
lively villages and vast, wooded beaches,
surrounded by beautiful countryside
and vineyards. “Here you can enjoy the
Champagne lifestyle but also a laid-back,
Mediterranean lifestyle of immense charm all
year round’ says local agent Mark MacAuley.
But it’s not all about the glamour and glitz.
There are towns and villages of immense
charm like Grimaud with its narrow streets
and medieval chateau, Port-Grimaud which is
more contemporary with its canals and bridges
and houses overlooking the water and La
Garde-Freinet with its tinkling fountains, pastelcoloured
houses and beautiful country homes.
Properties in the Gulf of Saint-Tropez
Villefranche sur Mer
Théoule-sur-Mer, Alpes-
Maritimes
On the Bay of Cannes, between the
shimmering sea and the rocky red hills of
the Massif Estérel, Théoule-sur-Mer is an
enchanting coastal village with several
marinas, fabulous beaches shaded by palm
trees and numerous hidden coves. Once a
tranquil fishing port, Théoule is now a lively
village with festivals and weekly markets.
‘Within moments you can shift between
being served chilled rosé on a beach and
mountain biking along well-groomed trails
with spectacular sea and mountain views’, says
agent Robert Nowak.
Properties in Theoule-sur-Mer and
surrounding area
122 | The Good Life France Port Grimaud, Gulf of Saint-Tropez
The Good Life France | 123

Our latest properties for sale in Provence Côte d’Azur
chalet villa château farmhouse apartment vineyard gîte cottage coast country city
Cannes, Alpes-Maritimes
This year-round vibrant city has fantastic
sandy beaches, fabulous restaurants, a
wonderful covered market and great shopping.
Famous for its International Film Festival,
there’s more to the city than glitz and glamour.
Stroll the medieval streets of Le Suquet old
town, enjoy sports activities galore, culture
by the bucket load, and glorious countryside
on the doorstep. ‘From sailing to a game of
petanque, listening to Jazz in a café, or even
techno on the beach, there’s so much to do
here plus the most marvellous sunsets from the
beachfront’ says agent Sandrine Strickland.
Properties in Cannes
Nice, Alpes-Maritimes
Nice is the capital of the French Riviera and
offers big city amenities combined with a
pretty marina, café terraces, the charm of the
Mediterranean lifestyle, vineyards producing
great wines and excellent transport facilities
including an international airport and TGV
train service to Paris. It has a fabulous variety
of quartiers (districts), including the old town
with its cobbled narrow streets, excellent
markets, shops and restaurants. It’s close
enough to the ski resorts that you can ski in
the morning and picnic on the beach in the
sun in the afternoon. ‘With its feet in the water
and its spirit in the mountains, Nice really
does have something for everyone seeking the
idyllic Côte d’Azur lifestyle’ say local agent
Michel Lanari.
Properties in Nice
Hyères, Var
‘Hyères is one of the best-kept secrets on
the French Riviera coast’ says agent Ilia
Pauloo. This quintessential Côte d’Azur
coastal town stands out for its authentic
charm despite being popular as a tourist
destination. There are plenty of cultural
attractions including museums and a popular
jazz festival, world class scuba diving and
three islands including Porquerolles with
its stunning beaches and rolling vineyards.
Hyères is nicknamed the “City of Palm Trees’
and offers the facilities of a large town without
being over-developed.
Properties in and around Hyères
See all properties for sale in the Var
Nice, Cours Saleya Vieux
See all properties for sale in Alpes Maritime
Love At First Sight
Vaucluse €1,495,000
Ref: A24998 - Beautiful 5-bedroom
house with pool and an amazing view.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: C Climate class: A
EXCLUSIVE
Room to Expand
Vaucluse €370,000
Ref: A22360 - Super 2-bedroom house
with stunning views and build opportnities.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: B Climate class: A
Cap d’Antibes
Alpes-Maritimes €5,750,000
Ref: A25094 - Exquisite 4-bedroom penthouse
apartment with private rooftop pool.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
DPE: In progress
Roof Top Views
Vaucluse €315,000
Ref: A25167 - Lovely 2-bedroom house
with roof terrace, in a quiet village.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: E Climate class: B
EXCLUSIVE
Provençal Villa
Alpes-Maritimes €795,000
Ref: A22864 - Stunning, spacious 3-
bedroom villa with swimming pool.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: C Climate class: A
Roquebrune Cap Martin
Alpes-Maritimes €3,950,000
Ref: A24621- 6-bedroom 280m² villa
with stunning sea views, pool, garden.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: E Climate class: E
Sitting Pretty
Vaucluse €1,590,000
Ref: 100233 - 6-bedroom farmhouse
with independent apartment and pool.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: C
EXCLUSIVE
Luberon Dream
Vaucluse €630,000
Ref: A24970 - 6-bedroom, 3-bathroom,
house with pool and nice garden.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: D
EXCLUSIVE
Historic Mill
Alpes-Maritimes €1,149,000
Ref: A14004 - Charming 6-bedroom
property, ideal for bed and breakfast.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: C Climate class: A
Start your property search today!
+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 · leggettfrance.com · info@leggett.fr
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website:
www.georisques .gouv.fr
124 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 125

The GERS –
The Gers is a small department in southwest
France. It’s a rural area and, just 60 miles
wide, peppered with perfectly preserved and
pristine medieval towns and brimming with
beautiful villages including 6 Plus Beaux
Villages de France.
As the birthplace of D’Artagnan, Alexandre
Dumas’ hero from The Three Musketeers –
and France’s oldest brandy, Armagnac, Gers,
also known by its ancient name of Gascony,
is steeped in history. The region is home to
a spectacular array of beautiful landscapes,
outdoor activities, castles, historical sites and
the most delicious gastronomy – this is the
authentic France you dream of
The biggest town is the capital, Gers but you
couldn’t call it crowded with a population of
Larresingle, one of the officially prettiest villages in France
la France Profonde
around 22,000. The whole region has less
than 200,000 inhabitants.
The Gers is rich in agriculture, fruit and walnut
production and cattle farming, especially the
big creamy Blonde d’Aquitaine cows. Most
homeowners have a ‘potager’, vegetable
garden, it’s an ideal place for keen gardeners.
Nicknamed “God’s larder” by the locals, daily
markets area a way of life and gastronomy
is an essential element of ‘art-de-vivre’ in the
region. Look out for Ferme auberges that
produce nearly all that they serve at the table.
The hillsides are smothered in vines and the
area is famous for Armagnac. Less wellknown,
excellent wine is also produced here.
The Pyrenees are just two hours by car, great
for skiing in winter and hiking in summer. The
west coast beaches, Basque country, Spain
and the Côte d’Azur are on the doorstep.
Toulouse city can be reached in around 1.5
hours by train from Auch. The seasons are
distinct with winters tending to be cold and
wet in January and February. Generally the
weather is clement year-round - spring sees
an explosion of flower, fauna and birdlife.
The summer is long, fields of sunflowers are
everywhere, and the good weather often lasts
well into September and mellows in October,
and it’s not unusual to be able to eat outside in
the sun in December.
Once popular with retirees, more and more
young people and families are choosing
the Gers for its laid-back way of life plus
excellent internet service for home-working -
this department was one of the first in France
to deploy high speed broadband and fibre
optic networks.
There’s a varied style of property available
including modern, timber-frame and
traditional limestone houses which are always
popular. The average price for an entirely
renovated small village house is around
€150,000 – €200,000. And you can still The first distillation of the Armagnac calls for celebration
126 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 127

Moving to France
© Sue Aran, French Country Adventures
buy properties to renovate starting from less
than €30,000 for a village house. Large
country mansions start from €350,000, and
farmhouses, plus properties with lots of land,
suitable for horse owners are popular. There’s
also the possibility to buy land in this lowpopulation
department.
The Armagnac-producing Tenarèze area is
known as the ‘Golden Triangle and includes
the stunning town of Lectoure, Condom,
Castera Verduzan, Saint Puy, and the
prefecture capital of Auch. Historically,
this area was the wealthiest because of
the Armagnac trade and the lovely honey
coloured limestone houses here reflect the
investment in property. Vic-Fezensac and
Eauze are attractive towns, with many stone
buildings. As you go bit further south towards
the steeper hillsides surrounding Marciac
where the annual and renowned jazz festival
is held, properties tend to be more timberframed
style.
The distances between villages and services
mean that a car is essential as public transport
is not widely available.
In the Gers, it’s easy to feel like you’ve stepped
back in time to a gentler place. You won’t
come across coach loads of tourists. And
you won’t find traffic jams. What you will find
are roads which take you through sweeping
panoramas, undulating fields of sunflowers,
Gers © CDT Tourism
corn and rapeseed. Vineyards laze under the
sun alongside lush grazing pastures dotted
with wildflowers. Hedgerows that are stuffed
with hawthorn, broom and honeysuckle hug
fields and forests. And the cafés and bars are
full of friendly folk, happy to share their little
corner of paradise.
Despite being very rural, The Gers is
accessible with Toulouse or Bordeaux airports
in easy driving distance and TGV high speed
trains can speed you from Agen to Paris in
five hours.
If you long to escape the rat race, then this
idyllic off-the-beaten track, unspoiled region
might be just what you’re looking for.
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128 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 129

French granny’s
garlic soup
Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
In northern France, every family has their own version of garlic soup. Handed down through the
generations, the recipe is one that is often made when someone in the family has a cold or flu.
It is delicious, nourishing and according to some scientists, those French grannies who insisted
that this was the best cure for the common cold may have been right. Garlic has antimicrobial
and antiviral properties.
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4 portions
INGREDIENTS
2-3 bulbs of garlic (roughly 40 cloves)
(smoked garlic can be used)
1 leek (white part only)
2 potatoes
1 onion
1.5 litres (3 pints) chicken stock
Liquid cream (half cup/120 m)
Salt and pepper
Butter
Olive oil
METHOD
Cut the tops off the garlic bulbs off, drizzle
with olive oil and roast wrapped in silver
paper for about 50 minutes on gas mark
6/400°F/200°C.
Remove, open the paper, and leave to cool
while you peel and chop the onion, leek, and
potatoes (small cubes).
Melt some butter and olive oil in a pan and
add the thinly sliced onion and leek, and sauté
for about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and the
chicken stock and simmer for 15-20 minutes
until the potatoes are soft. You might like to
add a little more stock if it’s too thick for your
taste. Take the pan off the heat and whisk (or
blend in a mixer).
Season and return to the pan, stir in a drop
of liquid cream, season and serve hot with
croutons or bread.
130 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 131

BAKED
MONT D’OR
and vin jaune
Serves 8
Preparation: 15 minutes
Cooking: 35 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 baguette
1⁄3 cup (80 ml) olive oil
10 garlic cloves, peeled, shoots removed
1 Mont d’Or cheese
2 ½ cups (600 ml) vin jaune (this wine is sold
exclusively in 620 ml bottles)
Freshly ground black pepper
?
Did You Know?
The Mont d’Or cheese is a specialty of the
Jura region in eastern France, and takes
its name from the highest mountain
there. It is sold in a box made of spruce.
Highly prized vin jaune, or yellow wine,
is produced in the same region from the
Savagnin grape, and is aged for a requisite
time of six years and three months,
during which time it acquires its
characteristic yellow colour.
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 300°F–325°F
(150°C–160°C).
Prepare some croutons: cut the bread,
drizzle with olive oil, and grill in the oven
until light brown.
Rub the croutons with the garlic and set aside.
Cut a hole into the center of the Mont d’Or,
reserving the top, and pour in the amount of
vin jaune you desire, no less than a scant ½
cup (100 ml). Press the pieces of garlic into
the cheese.
Cover the central hole with the reserved piece
of cheese. Place the cheese in its box, wrap
the box in aluminum foil, and bake for about
35 minutes.
Remove as soon as it is melted to your liking.
Give a few grinds of the pepper mill and serve
immediately, to eat with spoons and croutons.
Get top chef
Raymond Blanc’s
top tips for a
festive French
cheeseboard on The
Good Life France
website
Extracted from
The Complete Book of French Cooking by Hubert
Delorme and Vincent Boué (Flammarion, 2023).
Photo credit: © Clay McLachlan
132 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 133

POT-AU-FEU
Serves 8
Preparation: 35 minutes
Cooking: 2 hours 30 hours
INGREDIENTS
1 lb. (500 g) beef ribs (US) or fore/
thin ribs (UK)
2 lb. (1 kg) beef chuck (US) or chuck and
blade (UK)
1 tablespoon (20 g) kosher salt
1 ¼ lb. (600 g) marrow bones
1 ¼ lb. (600 g) potatoes
1 ¼ lb. (600 g) carrots
1 lb (400 g) zucchini (courgettes)
Fleur de sel
French mustard
Aromatic ingredients
1 large onion
1 carrot
Green leaf of 1 leek
2 cloves
1 bouquet garni
6–8 peppercorns
METHOD
Trim the meat, leaving each piece whole.
Prepare the aromatic ingredients. Peel and
wash the onion and carrot. Wash the leek
green. Cut the vegetables in two and push the
cloves into the onions near the base.
Place the pieces of meat in a large pot, cover
with cold water, and bring to a boil. Remove
the meat immediately and transfer the pieces
to another pot. Cover them with cold water.
Add all the aromatic ingredients and put in
the kosher salt. Bring to a boil, turn down the
heat, and simmer for 2 ½ hours. Thirty minutes
before the time is up, add the marrow bones.
Remove the aromatic ingredients and adjust
the seasoning.
Wash, peel, and rinse the potatoes and
carrots. Wash the zucchini. Shape the
vegetables into regular oval “egg” shapes
weighing about 2–2 ½ oz. (50–60 g) per
piece. Take 4 cups (1 litre) of the cooking liquid
and cook the vegetables in it separately for
just the time required for each.
Serve the vegetables with the meat, and
the broth in a tureen or vegetable dish.
Accompany with fleur de sel and French
mustard in small dishes.
?
Extracted
Did You Know?
This mouclade is a specialty
of the Poitou-Charentes region,
Chef’s Notes
Use other types of meat besides beef, like pork
and veal. You may even try fresh, cured, or
smoked meats. If you opt for this kind of variation,
don’t cook the meats together. Choose your
vegetables according to the seasons.
Every European country has its own version of
this boiled dish. The pot-au-feu, the hearty winter
meal par excellence, is a one-pot dish comprising
of broth, meat, and vegetables; and leftover meat
may be eaten cold, or reheated.
from
The Complete Book of French
Cooking by Hubert Delorme and
Vincent Boué (Flammarion, 2023).
Photo credit: © Clay McLachlan
134 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 135

Bitter almond
crème brûlée
Serves 8
Preparation: 20 minutes
Chilling: 1 hour
Cooking: 55 minutes
INGREDIENTS
10 egg yolks
Generous 1 cup (225 g) granulated sugar
2 cups (500 ml) milk
2 cups (500 ml) whipping cream, min.
35% fat
1 vanilla bean
A few drops of bitter almond extract
A little brown sugar, for caramelizing
METHOD
In a round-bottomed mixing bowl,
beat the egg yolks and sugar together
energetically until the mixture thickens
and becomes pale. Pour in the milk and
whipping cream. Whisk together and add
the seeds from the vanilla bean. Flavor
with the bitter almond extract.
Cover with plastic wrap and chill for about
1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 200°F (100°C).
Strain the liquid through a chinois and pour
it into eight small crème brûlée dishes or
ramekins. Bake for 45–50 minutes. Test for
doneness: the tip of a knife should come
out clean.
Allow the crèmes to cool. Just before
serving them, set your oven to broil. Sprinkle
the top of each one with brown sugar.
Caramelize them briefly in the oven, or use
a caramelizing iron, and serve.
Extracted from
The Complete Book of French Cooking by Hubert Delorme
and Vincent Boué (Flammarion, 2023).
Photo credit: © Clay McLachlan
136 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 137

138 | The Good Life France
Last
Word
When my son Harry asked me a while back if, after living in
France for several years, I now felt French, or did I still feel
British, I had to think about it. When I first came to France, there
is no doubt, I was a Brit living in France, and to some extent I still
am. But I am also not entirely British anymore. I am a hybrid –
neither 100% British, nor 100% French.
For me, it isn’t just a question of whether you hold a French
passport, or you were born in France. Of course that does
make you French, or at least a French citizen. But it’s not the
whole story.
Being French is also about a lifestyle. It’s having the opportunity
to go to the markets regularly to buy local seasonal vegetables.
It’s queuing at your favourite local boulangerie for a justbaked
crispy baguette or buttery soft croissants. And it’s
sitting at a café nursing a tiny cup of coffee and watching the
world go by without feeling as if you have to dash off and do
something else. Being French means practicing art de vivre –
the art of living well. Admiring a platter of cheese, made more
beautiful by the addition of flowers and leaves that represent
the season. Lingering over a long lunch with friends; pure
white napkins; beer served in gorgeous glasses; appreciating
a simple but beautiful vase of flowers; admiring
a beautifully designed wine bottle label. Art de
vivre is appreciating and making an effort with
the seemingly ordinary things of everyday life and
turning them into memorable moments.
What makes you French is also a whole lot more.
Far too much to write here but for me art de vivre
is one of the key things of French-ness! And we
can all feel a bit French if we practice a little art
de vivre and relish the moment!
Janine Marsh is Author of How to be French:
Eat, dress, travel and love la vie Française -
available on Amazon, all online bookshops and
in bookstores in high streets everywhere.
Janine
Janine Marsh lives in France with her husband and around 60 animals. Her books My Good Life in France,
My Four Seasons in France and Toujours la France are available at Amazon and all good book shops.
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