Issue No. 14

BISOUS
From
France
Bonjour
This issue of The Good Life France Magazine is set to provide inspiration for
everyone. There are focus features on the gorgeous gardens of the artist Monet
in Giverny, wild and dramatically beautiful Ardeche and the Loire Valley, in
which we look at the lesser known but no less stunning places to visit.
If you hanker for a break in the sun that won't break the bank, our how to live
like a millionaire in Nice on a budget feature is definitely for you. Or how about a
bit of island hopping on the tiny Ile d'Aix just off the coast of La Rochelle - it's
got real wow factor. Visit the enchanting Chateau du Rivau, a real life fairy tale
castle - there's nowhere else quite like it with its giant wellington boot
sculptures, Rapunzel tower and an exquisite chapel of roses.
Bordeaux, Haute-Savoie, the world's biggest fresh food market in Paris and the
fabulous theme park Futuroscope, perfect for families are all featured. We've got
9 brilliant give-aways - just click on the picture links to enter all the draws! And
the Your Photos section will really impress you, they are absolutely sensational.
If you're dreaming of living in France, or you're an expat already, our location
guides will definitely inspire you and our practical guides will help you sort out
the administration of life in France.
As for the gastronomy section - it's a corker! A fabulous recipe for apple tart
from a Michelin star chef, a look at nougat, that sweet, deliciously sticky stuff
and more.
If you like this issue - please share it, it's free, and always will be...
Happy reading,
Janine
Editor

Contributors
Daniel Galmiche is a French chef and author of The French
Brasserie Cookbook and Revolutionary French Cooking.
He's a regular guest on BBC's Saturday Kitchen and
passionate about using produce from local, sustainable
resources. Find out more at Daniel Galmiche.com
Sara Neumeier is a New York food stylist who shares a
summer cottage in the Dordogne with her parents. She and
her recipes are featured in the memoir Beginning French by
Les Américains
Peter Jones is a writer, photographer and radio presenter
who loves food and travel. He lives in Oxfordshire, UK and
is a freelance writer for newspapers and magazines. Find
out more at Jonesphotos.co.uk
Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV
Producer. His special interests are food & travel. His articles
appear in national newspapers, magazines, and global
websites read about his latest adventures at Planet Appetite
& on Twitter @planetappetite.
Lucy Pitts is a freelance writer and Deputy Editor of The
Good Life France. She is a professional copywriter who
runs Strood Copy. She divides her time between France
and the UK. Her favourite place is the Vendée area, known
as the Green Venice of France.
Editor: Janine Marsh contact editor (at) the goodlifefrance.com
Deputy Editor: Lucy Pitts
Advertising: Mark sales (at) thegoodlifefrance.com
Digital support: Umbrella Web Solutions

Page 56
Page 8
CONTENTS
FEATURES
8 Monet’s Garden in Giverny
It’s the most visited private garden in
western Europe and here’s why...
22 The Chateau du Rivau
A Loire Valley fairy tale castle to swoon
over - it's gorgeous.
32 Cycling in the Ardeche
Lucy Pitts falls in love with the wild and
dramatic beauty of the Ardeche.
40 Bordeaux – Wine, Rivers &
Chateaux
Rupert parker says a cycling/barge holiday
in Bordeaux is bound to float your boat.
Page 50
46 Ile D’Aix, Charente-Maritime
The perfect little island for chilling out and
getting away from it all.
50 How to live like a Millionaire
in Nice... on a budget
A break in the sunny southern city doesn’t
need to break the bank!
56 The Loire Valley – like you’ve
never seen it before
The secret side to this beautiful area and a
few surprises too!

page 68
Page 30
Page 98
68 The French Alps – not just for
skiing!
Discover the beauty of the French Alps in
spring and summer.
78 Fabulous Futoroscope
The award winning French theme park
proves to be a winner for kids of all ages!
Regular
30 Your Photos
We share the most popular photos posted
on our Facebook page.
119 My Good Life in France
Janine Marsh talks about life in
ruralFrance...
Give Aways
20 Win a copy of A Day With Claude
Monet in Giverney AND a copy of Monet
Water Lilies: The Complete Series.
86-87 7 fabulous Books and a beautiful
gift box of goodies from Paris to win.
Life in France
88 I spy with my Expat Eye
NEW SERIES
An expat reveals an insider view of France
via cheese!

Page 56
Page 31
Page 114
Page 22
92 The Good Life in ... The Loire
Valley
We meet a family who’ve found the Loire
Valley is just perfect.
98 The Good Life in ... Paris
A magazine editor in Paris reveals her top
places for first time visitors and where to
find the best bars and restaurants...
102 Finance: Taxing Times
Jennie Poate takes a look at expats'
obligations when it comes to tax.
106 Property: Immobiliers
Tim Sage gives a detailed overview of the
role of the estate agent.
Jo-Ann Howell looks at the administration
side of being self employed.
Gastronomy
110 Maman’s Apple Tart
Top French chef Daniel Galmiche reveals
the inspiration behind his scrumptious
apple tart and his famous recipe...
114 Nougat
Lucy Pitts visits Montelimar, home of the
famous nougat.
116 Gigot d’Agneau aux legumes
Sara Neumeier shares her favourite spring
dish from France.
21 Property picks Giverny
55 Property picks Nice
77 Property picks Annecy
97 Property picks Loire Valley
107 Practical: micro-entrepreneurs

As I walked along the pretty little rue Claude
Monet in Giverny, the first thing that I noticed
was the scent of flowers. The closer I got to the
house where the great artist lived and gardened,
the stronger the intoxicating perfume became...
Monet's House and Gardens
Monet’s house and gardens are open to the
public from April to October each year and
lure more than 500,000 people to this tiny
little town in Normandy, northwest of Paris.
Visitors flock to admire the pretty pink
house where Monet lived until his death in
December 1926 and to fall in love with the
magnificent gardens that everyone will
recognise from his luminous paintings.
Whatever month you visit during that time,
the garden is an absolute feast for the eyes
and the scent is dazzling.
Monet signed the rental agreement for the
house on May 3, 1883. In those days a
railway track ran along the bottom of the
then garden and Monet spotted the house
from his train carriage as it trundled past.
He and his second wife Alice moved to
Giverny and in 1890 bought the house; by
then Money was hooked on gardening.
They lived there for the rest of their days
and Monet, who became one of the highest
paid artists of his lifetime, transformed the
gardens into the most enchanting, alluring
corner of Normandy.
70 years after Monet died, the garden is
looked after by Briton James Priest. He’s
only the third gardener since Monet to have
the pleasure and the huge responsibility to
keep the artist’s dream alive.

"Like walking into a painting"
It’s not a gardening job like any other: “I’m
the guardian of this very famous plot of
land” says James who heads up a team of
eight gardeners. Monet himself had up to 7
gardeners working there.
I was taken aback at just how much this
garden looks like the Monet paintings I've
seen. “It’s deliberate” James tells me. He
works from a list of plants Monet liked to
grow. Much of the detail comes from a book
written by Monet's son about his father's
letters which contained information about
the plants he loved. And, there have been
lots of studies to ascertain varieties from
his paintings.
“Those pelargoniums that you see growing
in beds in front of the house, they were
there in Monet's time” advises James “and
we know that he grew roses and daffodils,
poppies and irises. But because he had
cataracts which made colours turn red and
purple to him, it's not always easy to get the
exact plant style right”. I tell him that to me
the colours seem spot on, you feel as
though you are standing in one of those
exquisite paintings when you stand in these
gardens surrounded by a glorious
symphony of colour.
“It wasn’t always like this” says James.
“When Monet first lived here, he had an

orchard and grew vegetables because he
wasn’t as wealthy as you might have
thought”. He also kept chickens and
there’s a chicken coop and pen there now
with lots of chooks clucking and pottering
about, completely oblivious to the hordes
who come to pay homage to the garden
and the painter. As Monet grew richer he
turned all his energy to planting flowers,
the orchard was replaced with crocuses -
but he kept the chickens.
“His wife didn't always agree with him, she
was” says James “more bourgeois than
her husband and wanted a slightly neater
garden which involved chopping down
trees she felt grew too close to the house.
Monet wanted to keep them. In the end, he
won.”
And for that, we should be forever grateful.
Colour is everything here, just as it was to
Monet. James explains that the design is
about the light changing. As the sun
passes over the garden it tracks across
swathes of plants that change from pink
through blue and red and I suddenly see
what he means - it's like a giant magical
paint brush has daubed a magical palette
of colours right in front of me.

“My garden is my most beautiful masterpiece”
Claude Monet
Monet painted the garden over and over.
He would paint one section in the morning,
paint it again at noon and again later in the
day, fascinated by the change in colour. In
those days paint didn't come in tubes
ready to use, artists mixed their own
pigments and Monet would be mixing
several times a day, in his workshop trying
to get the colours as he saw them.
As you stroll the gardens, birds sing, bees
and insects flit about, a neighbour’s cat
saunters by, unbothered by the crowds,
and always the scent of blooming flowers.
There are the famous "paint boxes", oblong
plots that James plants up to look like a
palette of colours and I can imagine Monet
using these beds of colour to help him
create his paint box.

Monet’s Waterlilies
When the railway line that ran along the
bottom of the garden was closed, Monet
decided to buy a plot of land on the other
side of the track. He had a hankering to
create a lily pond. Monet paid 1200 francs
and the community paid the remaining
1800 francs to meet the cost of the plot.
Water lilies were a huge novelty in Monet's
time. He saw them at the Paris universal
exhibition in 1889, the year before he
bought the house and he fell in love with
their exotic perfection. He turned the boggy
field of his extended garden into a series of
lakes and filled them with water lilies, he
was obsessed with capturing their beauty
on canvas. More than 250 paintings exist.
The waterlilies weren’t popular with
everyone though and when the artist
imported the mysterious plants from Egypt
and South America, the local authorities
feared they would poison the water.
"This was probably the first garden that had
hybrid lilies" says James. I can’t help
thinking just how clever this garden is and
how far ahead of its day. There is height,
texture, sculpture and the blending of
colour and the little Japanese influenced
bridges that Monet painted bright green are
a perfect contrast to the scene.
“He really was an incredibly innovative
gardener wasn’t he” I say to James “I never
really got that from looking at photos of the
garden”. I’m no artist but even I can see just
how stunning this place is when you see it
with your own eyes.
“Monet was like Da Vinci in his way" agrees
James "the first to really capture the light”.

The day I visited there were volunteers
cleaning the lily leaves, just as in Monet’s
day. He wanted them to look pristine and
James keeps the tradition up, wiping the
dust from time to time to keep them
healthy and looking beautiful.
You can’t help but imagine the painter
sitting here, obsessed and yearning to
capture the colour and the light that he saw
in later years as his sight deteriorated.
Monet’s House
Monet’s house is a true delight and an
unexpected bonus if you’re only going for
the gardens. I was lucky to see it on a
sunny autumn day and the rooms were
filled with light which poured through
windows which were thrown open to give
spectacular framed views of the garden.
It was a family home, Monet, his wife and
two sons and his wife’s six children from
her first marriage lived here. Shades of blue
and yellow predominate and it’s a place
that has a magical atmosphere. You almost
feel as though Monet himself will return at
any moment to sit at the table in the dining
room or smoke a pipe in the reading room
or perhaps he has nipped out to the garden
to pick flowers to fill the rooms with yet
more colour.
Monet is buried in a modest spot at the
churchyard at Giverny, his coffin was
carried as he requested, by his gardeners.
The house and gardens were eventually
bequeathed to the Académie des Beaux
Arts by Monet’s son Michel and restored to
their former glory and status as a living
work of art.
Website: Fondation-Monet.com for details
of opening times and tickets.
See over page for things to do in Giverny...

Pictures: Above, in the garden of a cafe
in Giverny; right at the Hotel Baudy in
the artists atelier; below in the
countryside surrounding Giverny

What to see when you visit Giverny
It’s not a big town but there’s plenty to
please - from tempting gift shops (who can
resist an impressionist inspired umbrella?)
to cafés and restaurants. There’s also a
Museum of Impressionism and a tourist
office.
Don’t miss a trip to the lovely little former
Hotel Baudy at 81 rue Claude Monet. In
1887, the first painters in what would
become the colony of American artists
needed accommodation in the village.
Madame Baudy who owned a grocery store
decided to transform it into a hotel and
restaurant. It became a favourite place for
the likes of Monet, Renoir and Cezanne
and other artists to meet for many years.
Today it’s a restaurant but ask to pop out
the back to view the rose garden and the
former atelier of the artists, complete with
easels and paints and ivy which has grown
through the roof. You'll feel as if Monet’s
great friend Renoir has popped out for a
bottle of wine and will be back any time to
finish painting.
More information on the local tourist
office website: normandy-giverny.com
We've got two gorgeous
MONET books to give away
- see over the page for
details.

Win a copy of A Day with
CLAUDE MONET in GIVERNY
This beautiful, slipcased volume offers an
intimate tour inside Monet’s home and through
the idyllic Giverny garden that inspired his most
iconic paintings. The garden at Giverny became
the impressionist master’s greatest artistic
accomplishment and a catalyst for his work. In
1890, Monet began renovating it, installing a
picturesque water lily pond inspired by the
Japanese prints he avidly collected.
The beautifully vivid illustrations of Monet’s
paintings, his home, and the grounds give
readers unprecedented access into the flowery
paradise to which Monet dedicated the last 40
years of his life.
CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO ENTER THE DRAW
Published by Flammarion April 2017
Win a copy of Monet
Water Lilies: The Complete
Series
A beautiful hard cover full on coffee table
book. A complete catalog of Monet’s
famous Water Lilies, featuring 210
paintings from private and public
collections.
The Water Lilies brought together in this
volume, "mirrors of time" that influenced
the greatest painters of modern times. A
catalogue of the 251 Water Lilies known to
exist, essays of art historians Jean-
Dominique Rey and Denis Rouart,
panoramic photographs of the Orangerie
murals in Paris, period photographs of
Giverny by Henri Cartier-Bresson, and rare
archival documents complete the work.
CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO ENTER THE
DRAW

FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN NORMANDY near Giverny
Ideally situated between Paris, the Ile-de-France and the Normandy coast, with gems
such as Honfleur, Deauville and Trouville, this lovely area will win you over with its great
variety of landscapes, architectural heritage, ancestral customs and traditions. It's also
famous for celebrities like Claude Monet, Giverny, great Parisian pastry cook and
chocolate maker Gaston Lenôtre and leading painter of the French classical Baroque
style Nicolas Poussin...
Local propery agent James Daillet picks a few of his favourite properties between 5km
and 26km from Giverny, 75km from Paris (via A13/A14 motorway) in a green residential
area with historic, cultural and touristic attractions. Vernon on the banks of the Seine
River, Les Andelys with its famous Château-Gaillard and Nicolas Poussin museum, La
Roche-Guyon with its beautiful 12th century Château and quaint communities of Lyonsla-Forêt
and Gisors on the wealthy Plateau du Vexin. Many leisure activities like golfing,
sailing and rowing on the Seine River, stunning forests and numerous bike and
pedestrian paths make this a fabulous place to live.
€256 800
Charming character house with 5
bedrooms overlooking a quiet and
lusch green valley in lovely Les Andelys
Click here for more details
Magnificent property, entirely
renovated, in the charming village of
Houlbec Cocherel, Eure within 45
minutes of Paris
Click here for more details
€540 000
This stunning villa was designed and
built in the 1930's by the gifted
architect Henri Sauvage in St Martin
La Garenne, Yvelines
Click here for more details
€1 007 000
Click here to see James'portfolio of properties in Normandy near Giverny

This is a love story.
It’s the tale of a couple who fell in love with an abandoned chateau. They
bought it and have spent the last two decades lovingly restoring it and
creating the most magical gardens.
Normally these stories are about expats
who can't resist an abandoned chateau,
but this one is not. French couple Patricia
and Eric Laigneau first saw the chateau in
1996. It had been dreadfully neglected and
was in urgent need of tender loving care
and a lot of work. It was a chateau with an
illustrious history, a place where the horses
of the French kings were once bred, but its
glory days had long since passed.
When they bought the chateau, former art
historian Patricia went back to school and
studied gardening in Versailles. She does
nothing by halves and threw herself into
turning the gardens into something
magical and today, those gardens have
gained fame for being absolutely gorgeous
and like a living fairy tale.
Patricia admits that the chateau is her
passion, “I start at six o’clock in the
morning” she says “and often don’t finish
before midnight”. Rarely for a garden of this
size, the changes in planting are seasonal
and constant.

Above: regal peacocks patrol the
gardens; right Patricia Laigneau
with daughter Caroline
The palette of colours is extraordinary and
there are 14 garden areas separated by
hedges, flower beds and bushes, joined by
a path that weaves under trees and
through secret bowers.
All of the gardens are enchanting - quite
literally because the constant theme here
is fairy tale. Adults and kids alike will fall
under the spell of Patricia's imaginative
designs and creations. When the five
hundred different sorts of roses scent the
air in June it’s overwhelming and breathtaking.
At other times there are swathes of
blue irises, or a host of golden daffodils
and in autumn a plethora of pumpkins
thrill visitors.

There are sculptures which are quirky and
intriguing, firing the imagination and often
making you smile. Discover giant
Wellington boots and an enormous saki
cup with a rather cheeky inside. There's
even a Rapunzel tower complete with rope.
A delicate carousel brings oohs and ah’s. A
giant mole, the gardeners enemy, is a great
resting place for an albino peahen called
Dame Blanche. It calls to its mate, another
gorgeous white peacock, it has a smaller
fan of feathers then the colourful peacocks
that strut the grounds but the white birds
are no less impressive.
Caroline, Patricia's daughter, who works in
the garden with her mother, and who
speaks impeccable English, says she has
been training the peacocks to respond to
her call. She lets out a “cwaac” noise and
one of the peacocks named Leon calls
back and comes to find in us in the floral
chapel. The original building was in such a
bad state that it couldn’t be saved so
Patricia planted a nave of flowers and
covered the walls with roses, it’s peaceful
and quite magnificent.
Everywhere you look there is something to
discover, to fall in love with and when you
think it can't get any better – you can go
into the chateau which the family have
restored beautifully.
Every year an exhibition is held, one year it
was monsters another year it was secrets,
in 2016 it was ghosts and included works
from artists around the world - sculptures,
paintings, photos that were quirky, elegant,
mysterious and fun and had visitors of all
ages enraptured.
In 2017 the exhibition will be "La vie de
château".
Pictures: below, nave of white roses
where the chapel once stood; right top
the Chateau and its fairy tale turrets;
bottom left, a bird in the garden;
bottom right, the giant mole!

In the castle is a room dedicated to Joan of
Arc who it is said to have visited the
chateau to buy horses when on her
campaign to rid France of the English
invaders. In a little tower, you can see a
kneeling figure dressed in a red cloak,
listen carefully and you’ll hear the sound of
someone praying earnestly, it’s quite a
moving experience. Outside the stables
are a reminder of the chateau’s majestic
connections and you can watch a film,
revealing the history of this illustrious
castle.
If you visit the gardens, don’t miss the
lovely restaurant in a converted barn or on
the pretty terrace. Here you’ll get a
delicious lunch made from local produce
and vegetables from the castle’s prize
winning organic kitchen garden plus
delicious local Chinon wines. There’s also
cheese and wine tasting - check out the
flower bar - it's truly perfect!
This is a castle to fall in love with and one
visit will never be enough…
Information:
There is a full programme of events included Roses Days, jousts and heritage days, see
the website for details - www.chateaudurivau

Y O U R P H O T O S
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they go.
Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and we've decided to post
the most popular of each month here. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook -
the most liked will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...
November
December

January
February
Photos by:
November: The Florist at St
Tropez by Dave McNeill (+3.7k
Likes)
December: Christmas in Paris by
Jeff Pierce (+3.3k Likes)
January: The Paris Boulangerie
Paris by John Woods (+2.1k Likes)
February: Minerve by Robin
Locker-Lacey (+3.5k Likes)
Join us on Facebook
and like and share
your favourite photos
of France...

Lucy Pitts visits the lesser
known part of Provence and
falls in love with its wild beauty

Some places in France are made for
lingering and the Ardèche in the Rhônes
Alpes region, just north of Provence is
certainly one of them. It feels untamed at
times with its rugged, craggy gorges and
deep forests, serene at others, with grand
old mother Rhône gliding majestically
through her vineyards and hills.
Start at Tournon sur
Rhône
If you’re planning on cycling in this
beautiful region, you could do a lot worse
than by starting your stay in the small town
of Tournon sur Rhône. Just north of
Valence (and south of Lyon) it’s delightfully
quirky. One moment you’ll be exploring a
labyrinth of ancient, narrow, cobbled streets
(and a new one way system that will send
you insane) and the next you’ll be bowing in
reverence on the banks of the River Rhône,
as she slowly sweeps passed in all her
grandeur.
There’s a large and rather beautiful 19th
century, pedestrian suspension bridge
which takes you to Tain l’Hermitage and
the vine clad slopes and gourmand
chocolate on the other side of the Rhône. I
happened to follow two children across it
from Tain to their school in Tournon’s large,
shaded market square. The school is
dripping in Mediterranean flowers and sits
right on the banks of the Rhône and as the
early September sunrise slowly unveiled the
town, I had to wonder if the children
appreciated what a stunningly beautiful
spot their seat of learning is in.

With the castle right at Tournon’s heart
(which dates back to the 10th and 14th
century and is next to the square) the town
is also overlooked by a steep hill and the
old fortifications and church. Vines thread
their way up the slopes like plaits on a
head to give a curious effect. There’s
occasional trompe d’oeil in the back streets
and you can feel the mix of southern
France and Alpine style. The bright orange
and yellow turret of the Caisse d’Epargne
in the old quarter even gives it an eastern
feel.
Hôtel de la Villeon
Tucked away a short distance behind the
very narrow main street, with its back
against the hills is a hidden gem. A large
old wooden door is the only clue to this
grand old 18th century mansion that used
to belong to one of the town’s long ago
successful merchants. Now a 4-star hotel,
it’s held on to all the integrity of its past.
Limestone floors greet you as you enter the
cool of the ground floor and the original
grand staircase takes you into the hotel’s
heart. It’s a listed building with many
original features like the exquisite parquet
flooring but still has a minimalist feel.
The terraced garden which leads off from
the restaurant, has an array of terracotta
pots and a magnificent wisteria, which you
climb up through to access the top terrace.
On a Sunday night the hotel restaurant is
closed so they bring your dinner from the
nearby gourmand restaurant Comako.
There’s a local trend in cuisine in the
Ardèche so I’m told, which means my entire
meal came condensed into 3 small glass
pots (one for each course)! But, whether it’s
hot coffee and some of the hotel’s fabulous
breakfast or a potted picnic, the top terrace
and its views, has to be a pretty fabulous
way to start or end any day.

The Dolce Via
Hitting the cycling trail –
by train!
The good news is that you don’t have to be
super fit to enjoy the cycling trails of the
Ardèche. Hôtel de la Villeon is only 5
minutes’ walk from the famous Via Rhôna,
a 815 km cycle route that goes from Lake
Geneva to the Mediterranean.
Better still, just to the north of Tournon is
the Tournon St Jean train station for the
local steam train and this is another good
way to start your cycling tour. You can load
your bike on the train and the 1hr 40-
minute ride will take you up through the
Gorges of the River Doux and the Doux
Valley, through chestnut forests and by
way of mountainous views to the lofty
town of Lamastre. It’s a beautiful way to
start getting to know the landscape and
saves your legs a hard climb.
In Lamastre, you can take to the Dolce Via,
75 km of meandering, gentle cycle track .
It’s on the route of a former train line that
originally linked some of the region’s most
rural and remote towns and villages and it
guides you gently from Lamastre through
the Eyrieux Valley.
The route is divided into 6 sections of
between 7 and 16 km each and it’s certainly
something a family could tackle together.
It’s an idyllic way to travel and if you
haven’t got children I’d suggest visiting in
early September. It’s still wonderfully warm
but also blissfully quiet.
There are plenty of places to stay en route,
including a number gîtes which are
“Accueil Vélo” (which means they are

The Via Rhôna home
accredited to a high standard and provide
particular services for cyclists).
Along the way there’s also two “village de
caractère” (Chalencon and Beauchastel) as
well as kayaking, river swimming and tree
top adventure if you want to take a break
from the cycling for a while.
But most importantly, the Dolce Via is a
gently undulating journey over viaducts,
through tunnels and alongside some simply
fantastic views. The valley far below is dotted
with traditional old silk mills of the 19th
century and the surrounding hills are thick
with woodland and wildlife. It’s a thoroughly
civilised way to travel and a journey you
could manage in a day or two or spread out
over 3 or 4 days to a week.
When you ever tire of admiring steep
ravines and pretty villages, at La Voulte
sur Rhône you can pick up the Via Rhôna.
This flatter cycle trail will take you past
vineyards and sleepy hills, along the
banks of the Rhône back to Tournon
(about 35 km), or straight to Valence
(about 20km).
Of course, your quick tour in the saddle
has given you only a glimpse of this
stunning region. If you have the time, head
further south to the Ardèche Gorges and
explore some of the dozens of village de
caractère.
The Ardèche is a quiet region just basking
in rugged and rural beauty and
somewhere that is worth savouring slowly.

For details of the Dolce Via visit: dolce-via.jimdo.com
Transport:
There’s a TGV station in Valence which means you can catch a train there direct
from Paris or the UK. For trains to Valence TGV visit: tgv.uk.voyages-sncf.com/en
For details of the steam train visit: trainardeche.fr
For places to stay:
Visit hoteldelavilleon.com. They have secure underground parking should you
need to leave your car or bikes.
Visit gites-de-france-ardeche.com for bike friendly places to stay along the Dolce
Via
For more information about the Ardèche, visit: ardeche-guide.com

Bordeaux – Wine, Rivers and Chateaux
by Boat and Bike
Rupert Parker cruises down the Dordogne River and up the Gironde, stopping off
every day to cycle around a different Bordeaux wine region. There’s the added
bonus of popping into different Chateaux and sampling famous wines like
Margaux, Pomerol, Sauternes, Médoc and Saint-Émilion.

The first day’s cycling is an easy 10km to
the medieval town of Saint-Émilion,
through rows of vines stretching all the
way to the horizon.
Indeed grapes will be my constant
companion throughout the week and the
joy of cycling is that it’s easy to drop into
a chateau and request a tasting. It’s too
early for that so I take a tour of some of
the 200 km of catacombs and visit the
most impressive underground church in
Europe.
Emilian was an 8th century Bendictine
monk from Brittany who sought refuge in
one of caves here. He is said to have
performed many miracles and he became
so famous they named the village after
him.
In the evening we sail downriver to Bourg,
a fortified village on a rocky outcrop at
the confluence of the Dordogne and
Garonne. On board I get to do my own
wine tasting as they have a selection of
Bordeaux wines available by the glass or
the bottle. They feature a different wine
every night, at a slightly reduced price,
although I would suggest that their
“happy hour” should take place before
the meal, rather than after. Nevertheless
the food’s pretty good, hearty enough to
sustain even the most avid cyclist.
The transfer from Bordeaux airport is less
than an hour and I join the boat at Liborne
on the Dordogne River. It’s a 78m river
cruiser, aptly named Bordeaux and takes up
to 96 guests in 49 cabins, all with en-suite
facilities. I’m introduced to my bike, fitted out
with helmet, lock and pannier and I’m ready
to roll. The clever idea is that you cycle by
day and sleep on board at night whilst the
ship reaches its next destination.
The rain’s held off so far but next morning
the storm clouds are looming as I
meander through the vineyards of Cote
du Bourg, then Cote du Blaye to the town
of the same name. It now begins to pour,
but the immense fortifications of the
citadel provide ample shelter. This
military complex was designed by
Vauban, the famous French military
engineer, and was constructed between
1685 and 1689. It was designed to repel
attackers coming from the Atlantic and
has a tremendous view of the Gironde
estuary, the largest in Europe.

The next day, we anchor near Lamarque,
in the heart of the Medoc wine region.
The soil is a good mix of gravel, sand and
clay perfect for red grape varieties,
producing high quality full bodied reds,
what we Brits used to call claret.
On my way to Pauillac my ride takes me
past many famous wineries but I’m
saving my tasting for the famous
Chateau Margaux in the opposite
direction. Instead I content myself with a
coffee and croissant on the delightful
promenade facing the river and watch
the sailors disembark in the marina.
Another 20kms later, I’m in the town of
Margaux and make my way to the
Chateau. It’s an attractive 18th century
Neo-Classical villa in extensive gardens
but I’m disappointed to find that visits
are by appointment only.
That night we dock in the heart of
Bordeaux, sailing past the city’s newest
tourist attraction the Cite du Vin. It rises
upwards like a giant inflatable toy, its
circular tower all gold striped, resting on
a shiny metallic base.
The inspiration for the shape of the
building is said to be a humble carafe,
coupled with the swirl of wine in a tasting
glass and it’s half museum, half theme
park. Interactivity is the key and a special
iphone-like device guides you through
every aspect of the history and actuality
of wine making across the world.
Best of all, on the top floor, you can
choose a glass of wine, whilst enjoying a
stunning view of the city.
I get on my bike and cycle out of
Bordeaux on a disused railway line,
totally empty of traffic. There are no
vineyards here, just trees and swamp,
and it makes a nice change in the
landscape.
Pictures: top right

Now I’ve ticked off almost all of
Bordeaux’s famous wine regions and
there’s just one remaining.
I cross the Garonne and visit the bustling
Friday market in Langon before climbing
upwards to the village of Sauternes,
famous for its dessert wines. I’m looking
for the celebrated Château d’Yquem and,
even though it’s marked on my map, it’s
difficult to find.
Perhaps they don’t encourage visitors,
after all, thieves broke into the cellars in
2013 and stole 380 half-bottles of wine
worth €125,000.
Finally, as I stumble across the gates to
the chateau, and cycle down the long
drive, there’s thunder all around me and
the heavens open.
I take shelter in one of the outhouses,
hoping I won’t be arrested by a security
guard, and reflect that I almost got soaked
in Château d’Yquem.
Picture: the ever enchanting
village of Saint Emilion
Rupert Parker travelled with Freedom
Treks on the Bordeaux - Wine, Rivers &
Chateaux cycling tour.
This 7 night, 143 mile Boat & Bike selfguided
tour aboard ‘The Bordeaux’, a long
river cruiser, starts from £958 per person
on full board. Price also includes services
of an English speaking tour leader, daily
briefings of bike tours and complimentary
tea and coffee on board.
Departs on various dates from April –
October. Grade: Easy - Moderate. Bike
hire, including E-bikes available.
Flights and transfers not included; fly to
Bordeaux or take the train from Paris.

Charente-Maritime
The little island of Ile d’Aix sits off the coast from the lovely port town of la Rochelle in
the Charente-Maritime region. Quaint and quirky, this bijou islet is a perfect place for a
get-away-from-it-all break or a fabulous day trip.
There are just 40 full time residents living on the island and most holiday makers are
French – and who can blame them for wanting to keep this place a secret, but, I like to
share the best places with you.
You can’t take your car to the island which is reached by a smart ferry, though
residents may use cars as they’re necessary for getting in supplies. But you’ll find that
without the fumes, this place is an absolute haven of nature and sweet fresh air. You
can leave your car in the car park at the ferry terminal and it’s not a huge island so you
won’t miss your wheels and besides, everyone cycles and walks here. There are great
bike paths that take you all round the island with detours to gorgeous beaches, laid
back bars and cafes and accommodation, there’s just one hotel, a campsite, villas and
a few chambre d’hotes – this is not an island that’s teeming with places to stay so
book in advance to ensure a bed for the night.

A place to chill out and relax
Ile d'aix

What to see on the Ile d’Aix
An island hop to the Ile d’Aix by ferry from
Fouras, a 20 minute journey, makes for a
glorious chill out day, weekend or longer,
At just 3km long and 700m wide – you’re
not going to find it tough to get around, you
are going to find it totally relaxing to be
here. This little gem is a listed “Remarkable
Natural Site”. To the north is the ever
popular Ile de Ré, to the west is the famous
Fort Boyard of TV fame and the bigger Ile
d’Oléron and south lies the Ile de Madame.
The island has been inhabited since the
11th century, fortified thanks to its position
in the coastal waters, especially when the
arsenal was established at Rochefort on
the mainland, home to the shipbuilders of
Louis XIV and later under the Emperor
Napoleon.
He landed here in 1808 and again seven
years later, staying for four days in the
home of the governor, his last stop on
French soil before being exiled to the island
of Sainte Helene.
Today you can visit the Governor’s house, a
rather quirky museum with a definite
atmosphere. A collection of clocks, art and
the bed upon which Napoloeon slept will
entertain you for an hour or two. Turning
the house into a museum was the project
of Baron Gargaud, a jet setter of the 19th
century, one of the bright young things of
Paris with more money than he knew how
to spend. He heard the house was up for
sale and bought it and then dedicated
much of his life to finding and buying up
Napoleonic memorabilia to fill it up with.

Fall in love with island living
This is a place of hollyhocks that spring up
everywhere and of wild flowers that scent
the fresh air. There are tiny cafés where
you’ll receive a warm welcome, pretty little
cottages with pastel coloured shutters,
bikes with baskets ready for a picnic lunch
or a bucket to catch a fish for supper.
Though you can cycle round the island in a
couple of hours if you really want to, you’ll
probably take a lot longer due to the
amount of wow moments you’ll have. Go at
a leisurely pace and stop off at pretty bays
and picturesque inlets. Fishing or collecting
shellfish is allowed but restricted to
enough for one meal! Stop off for lunch at a
restaurant with golden sandy beaches in
your view, palm trees waving in a gentle
breeze that makes you feel as if you’re the
Caribbean rather than the Charente-
Maritime. Buy a souvenir from the mother
of pearl shop and museum, a family run
business where they’ve been making little
shell gifts for more than 60 years. You can
also take a carriage ride, pulled by friendly
horses
This is a place to smell the blossom and
the salty sea, to let the silky sand slip
through your toes, to enjoy a glass of
chilled wine and a deliciously fresh cooked
meal and to fall in love with the great
outdoors – French style.
Book the boat and get the time table for
the trip to Ile d'Aix
Charente Maritime Tourist Office

How to live like a millionaire in Nice...
On a budget
Imagine, you wander through the narrow streets of the old town in Nice, stopping at the
market to buy breakfast – socca, the local speciality, a pancake made from chick peas.
The sun is shining, and as you reach the beach, the sound of the sea lapping gently is
soothing... relax.
You break for lunch at an authentic café and enjoy a tasty dish and post a selfie on
Facebook which makes your friends back home in the rain jealous. You return to the
beach, read a book and savour a delicious ice cream. Then you wander back to your
apartment to get dressed for an apero at a local bar, have dinner and wander the wiggly
streets of old Nice listening to free music, soaking up the ambience and people
watching.
Nice is famous for its glitz and glamour, for being the playground of the rich and famous.
Everyone from the Queen of England to world leaders and billionaires come up here to
play and party and to soak up the sun that shines more than 300 days a year. But what if
you’re not a millionaire – can you afford Nice? Is it possible to take a break without
breaking the bank? Well yes, absolutely, and in fact, it’s not at all hard to live on a budget
here and enjoy life to the full!

Where to eat
You are totally spoiled for choice in Nice where food is really important to the locals, it’s
part of the heritage of this place. The street food is amazing, delicious socca, Pissaladière
(a tasty onion tart) pastries and snacks are plentiful and at just a few Euros a piece, you
won’t need to spend much.
Plenty of restaurants don’t charge sky high prices and one of the best for local Nicois
dishes is A Buteghinna (11, rue du marché). It’s only open for lunch but the three lovely
Nicois ladies who run cook up a storm in a tiny kitchen. You won’t each much in the
evening after one of their scrumptious dishes which you won’t be able to resist finishing!
And, check out the snack bar at the restaurant for take away heaven!
The food market at Cours Saleya is an experience in itself and surprisingly reasonable,
thanks to the abundance of fruit and vegetables grown in the area and neighbouring
Italy, just 20 minutes’ drive from Nice. There is also the Liberation Market (Avenue
Malausséna - Place du Général de Gaulle Liberation tram stop) Tuesday – Sunday, which
is where most locals go as it’s less touristy. Buy supplies and enjoy a picnic in the sun.
Where to drink
If you want some wine to go with your picnic or to drink on your balcony watching the
sun go down, head to Les Caves Caprioglia (16 Rue de la Prefecture). Take an empty water
bottle and buy direct from the 700l casks of wine that line the wall and choose from
white, red or the locals favourite rose. A litre of red will set you back about 3 euros.

Credit: Martine Hillen
What to do
The beach at Nice is stony – which is fine for most people but if you want a comfy
sunbed, you’ll have to pay for it. You could though nip on the bus for €1.50 and head to
the sandy beach at Villefranche-sur-Mer. (Get transport details from the tourist office).
Walking is of course free and Nice is one of the nicest places to wander with parks,
grand squares, tiny streets and different styles of district. Head to castle hill, via the free
lift – or climb the steps if you’re feeling energetic. The views from here are stunning, there
are shady areas perfect for a picnic and beautiful gardens, and watching the sun set over
the Bay of Angels is memorable. Watch out for the midday Cannon that booms to alert
you to the fact that it's lunch time!
Cool down in La Promenade des Paillons, an enclosed urban park of 12 hectares where
you’ll find fountains, bands, street food and somewhere to sit in the shade of a tree, on a
bench and simply chill.
People watch at Place Massena with its quirky artwork - figures on high poles that light
up at night.
Visit the Matisse Museum - entrance is free. It is next to the Roman ruins in Cimiez, a
short bus ride or longish walk from the centre of Nice. It has a brilliant collection showing
the artist's work through his lifetime - simply magnificent. musee-matisse.nice

Where to stay
When the millionaires come to Nice they stay in posh hotels and villas, many have
second homes or grand yachts they park in the marina where we can ogle them!
But here's how you can do it at a fraction of the price: Stay YNA are the leaders in
providing local accommodation of all styles. I stayed in an apartment which cost just
£36.00 per night (for up to 4 people, not each). You have the use of the whole place,
including kitchen facilities, fresh linen, towels and toiletries are provided and you can
order Champagne etc – it’s a bit like an upmarket Air BNB. You get to live like a local and
also you’ll have a the services of a travel team who will welcome you and provide
assistance and helpful advice about the area. There’s a welcome pack too which has
loads of info including where the nearest boulangerie is so you can get fresh croissants
for breakfast like the locals do.
There is also a hostel in Nice that has a gorgeous little courtyard. You do, though, have to
share rooms to make the best savings. A room for 2 costs from 27 euros each person per
night.
With more than 300 days of sunshine a year, Nice is very nice indeed!
Janine Marsh stayed in 'Stella', a one-bedroom, centrally located apartment in the Carré d’Or. For
bookings, visit www.stayyna.com where you'll find apartments from 39 Euros per night to 20
bedrooms villas from 600 Euros per night.

find your dream property in Nice
Nice, capital of the Cote d'Azur, is where I now call my divine home says local property
agent Gloria Chaussegros. Endless sea front walks, warm sunny days (yes even in winter),
upbeat cosmopolitan vibe, top international schooling, all year cultural, sports and music
events and less than one hour to Italy and ski resorts and around 5 hours by train to
Paris. Above all, the people of Nice are really nice!
Sun, beach, markets, shopping, museums, street art performance, upbeat nightlife,
festivals, great public transport, direct flights worldwide, beautiful sea views, winter snow
stations close by, international people all year round, yummy food, close to Monaco, the
list just goes on! Someone once asked me what don’t you like about Nice and after a
long reflective pause I said, “the little pebbles on the beach?”
Studio in Nice facing over the Promenade
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Click here to see Gloria's portfolio of wonderful properties in Nice

Credit Derrick J Matthews
For most of us, when we think of the Loire Valley it's the grand chateaux and grand
wines that pop into our minds – but there’s another aspect to this stunning part of
France that’s no less impressive. Though the Loire Valley is UNESCO listed for its
cultural landscape, historic towns and great architectural monuments, there is a rather
sleepier side to the Maine et Loire department. It’s a place of hidden gems, amazing
gastronomy, a village of roses, less well-known chateaux that look like something out of
a fairy tale and towns that are pickled in the past.
So when you head for the greats – look out for the great but off the beaten track places
and double the pleasure of your visit…
Saumur
Saumur is a tranquil sort of town with a
friendly ambience. It’s a great place for
those who love culture, history, beautiful
architecture, wine and great French cuisine.
And, let’s face it, it doesn’t get much more
tempting than that does it?!
5000 years ago there were settlers here
and just 2km from Saumur you'll find the
biggest funeral chamber in Europe, left
behind by those early inhabitants. A huge
dolmen which bizarrely is located in the
garden of a pub that's privately owned and
currently for sale. If you’re interested in
owning a property which dates back to
probably about the time the most ancient of
Egyptian pyramids were being built –
have a look at the Dolman de Bagneux!
The Plantagenets bought good times to the
town, building a bridge over the River Loire
which helped it prosper. Then Saumur
mostly seemed to go to sleep and not much
happened until the religious wars began in
France. Protestants from around the world
found refuge and safety in Saumur. They
bought with them new ideas, set up a
university and changed the face and pace
of this tranquil place.

Credit: Terry Webb
Urbanisation of Saumur came with the Age
of Enlightenment (mid 17th century). It
brought an attempt to eradicate the bad old
ways including sadly, the abolishment of
medieval buildings. They were considered
dark, damp, small and unsanitary. The
movement took place all over France and
though today we are horrified by the
destruction, then it was seen as a
wonderful opportunity to improve living
conditions and create a better place. New
buildings went up, made with light coloured
stone, wide avenues and airy squares were
constructed. Luckily, laziness prevailed
enough to keep some of those wonderful
old buildings.
Saumur today is a flowery town which feels
prosperous and unhurried, those cream
coloured buildings have mellowed and
contrast beautifully with their pale shutters.
It’s a great place for wandering. You’ll
discover the remains of the ancient walls of
the city,and plenty of surprises. Head to the
Belvedere Hotel and push a button on a
gate to enter a pretty courtyard, walk down
“the streets of hell” and into Place st Pierre,
lined with beautiful buildings some of
which go back to the 15th century. Here you
will find plenty of cafés and places to while
away the hours while you enjoy the local
wine and produce - it's a gourmet pleasure
Place.
Don’t miss Saumur Chateau built in the 12th
century. It was converted to a military
barracks and later a prison, causing it to
lose its looks. However it has been partially
restored after architect Jean Drapeau found
a picture by chance in a chapel showing it
as a fairytale looking castle in 1410. He
restored the towers and gold finials of this
quite enormous building. It's not furnished,
but absolutely worth going to for its good
looks and the view over the town and the
river – it is stunning.

Saumur is home to one of the most
important military schools in France – it’s
huge and takes up 20% of the entire town’s
footprint. There’s also an important
equestrian school which puts on a famous
annual event.
A beautiful chapel in the town (now a
school) was once a pilgrimage site of major
importance and spawned a rosary making
industry in Saumur, in fact they still make
them here.
guys this is the place to go if you fancy a
long, cool beer. They play good music and
have a great choice of beer on tap. This
modern bar is loved by locals not just for
the brew but the great saucisson and
cheeses they offer..
Local specialities include mushrooms and
fouées a sort of bread: eat it like the locals
filled with cheese, "snail butter", Nutella or
jam - Loire valley style street food.
Where to eat in Saumur:
Locals love: Bistrot de la Place, there’s a
good choice of dishes and if you go for a
beer or glass of wine they serve great
nibbles! It's very traditional, on a sunny day
the tables spill out onto the pedestrianized
Place St Pierre.
Opposite is Les Tontons (which means
“the uncles”) with a welcoming landlord
who's regarded as a local "character".
There's a fun and friendly atmosphere and
traditional cuisine. This place is a favourite
with the locals.
Insider secret: On a little island in the River
Loire is the Pub House. Run by two young

Must sees in the area
Drive through the Saumur vineyards - the
route to Tours is very picturesque
Wine tasting - (see over)
Smell the roses at Chedigny AKA the
village of roses (see caption left)
Visit the Musee des Blindes with its
collection of tanks/armoured vehicles
Be wowed by Fontevraud abbey (see over)
Pictures: Top left, Place St Pierre, Saumur;
top right: Blois at sunset; bottom the
village of roses Chedigny where an annual
rose festival takes places at the end of May.
Then the sleepy town springs to life as the
streets fill with admiring crowds who can't
resist buying a rose bush to take home as a
souvenir of this lovely place.
Visit the gorgeous fairy tale Chateau du
rivau – see page 22
Discover the famous Mushroom cellars
(see over)
Take a boat ride on the Loire, chill and float
on a traditional wooden boat with an
aperitif and watch the sun set over Blois,
book at: observatoireloire.fr
Stay in a hobbit house, amazing tree
house or gypsy caravan! (see over)
Be inspired by the gorgeous gardens of the
Domaine Chaumont-sur-Loire (see over)
Ride a donkey! At Les Annes de Ballade,
learn to brush the donkeys and get to
know them and the walk them through
beautiful countryside and forests, if you're
under 40 kg you can ride them. Book at:
les-anes-de-balaam.fr
Be thrilled by the Son et Lumieres show at
the royal castle of Blois
Visit Angers, a beautiful historic town with
many sites and where Cointreau is made!

Above: Louise de Bourbon in a centuries
old "selfie"
Abbey Fontevraud
This has to be one of the most beautiful
abbeys in all of France – and there are a lot
of them. The Abbey de Fontevraud is the
burial place of Richard the Lionheart and
Eleanor of Aquitaine. It has immense
history you can almost feel when you walk
through the doors and into the cool interior
with enormously high ceilings, Byzantine
style domes and white stone walls.
Unusually this was an abbey that was run
by women, powerful Abesses who
answered only to the King and the Pope.
The women who lived here dedicated their
lives to praying. It was a hard life; they were
not allowed to speak to each other or make
eye contact, even during meals. When
Louise de Bourbon (1673–1743) became
Abbesse it became quite popular for the
aristocracy to send daughters there.
Gorgeous paintings show Louise had
herself added to a religious scene, it seems
vanity didn't completely disappear and
subsequent Abesses followed her lead -
making this an early "selfie". During the
French Revolution the Abbey became a
prison which closed in 1963. In 1975 it was
designated a place of culture and arts,
fabulous exhibitions are displayed in some
of the ancient chambers.
On site is a beautiful hotel converted from
one of the buildings. Truly tranquil, it is
exquisitely updated keeping as many
features as possible whilst being a truly
luxurious experience. The air is scented
with oils, the rooms are spacious and über
luxurious but organic at the same time.
Staying here gives you access to the abbey
and the gorgeous gardens. The bar and
restaurant are open to non-residents and
are worth going for on their own merits.

Blois Son et Lumieres Show
On summer evenings a very special son et
lumière show takes place in the grand
courtyard of the Chateau of Blois. Listen to
the music and tales of the castle's history
via audio (in several languages) for a
spectacular extravaganza that lasts for 45
minutes. Take a blanket to sit on or stand,
as you’ll need to swivel as the show is
projected on all four walls and the famous
staircase. Magical, mesmerising and
memorable – this is a must see. Plus, the
town is perfect for wandering. There are
plenty of restaurants, try La Creusille at the
side of the river for delicious dishes in an
ancient courtyard.
You may not be able to stay in the chateau
of Blois but close by is the gorgeous
chateau Tertres. You're guaranteed to feel
like royalty here in the lovely spacious
rooms, mooching around the grounds, or
stroking the attention seeking friendly
Angers and Cointreau
The famous orange liqueur was invented
during the era of Belle Époque. Anyone can
take a tour at Cointreau and you won't
quickly forget the smell as you walk into
the still room – it’s like stepping inside an
orange. Here tons of orange peel, the main
ingredient, is distilled daily in old copper
stills then bottled. In the warm atmosphere,
filled with a heady scent, you'll learn the
secrets of Cointreau, amazingly every bottle
you buy, and every sip of Cointreau you
enjoy, will have come from that distillery
room.
Don’t miss a tasting at the very smart bar,
visit the factory, enjoy the huge collection
of marketing material and promotional
posters on display, it's a great way to while
away an hour and for Cointreau fans, a
must-see: www.remy-cointreau.com
The Blois Son et Lumiere show takes places 1 April to 24 September 2017 March,
April, May, September: starts 22h
June, July, August: starts 22h30
Tickets may be bought at the tourist office in Blois and main towns in the Loire

Pictures: Above, hobbit house;
middle tree house; right
Monmoussea Caves lumiere
show
And now for something
completely different...
If you hanker after a hobbit house, or
dream of a tree house stay, yearn to live in
a yurt or go wild in a gypsy caravan then
head to La Domaine de la Roche Belin. It's
in glorious countryside that wouldn't be out
of place in a film about bucolic locations.
Have freshly prepared, organic, seasonal
meals brought to your accommodation, or
eat in the beautifully converted barn where
there are also barbecue facilities. The chef
is an ex caterer to the French President
and the food is amazing.
Sheep, ducks, chickens, horses and
donkeys roam the grounds, it really is
idyllic - perfect for families and couples.
There's a lake filled with fish, from the
double storey tree house you can see huge
trout swim below you, and look out over
the countryside. In the hobbit house, if you
leave the skylight open - you're likely to see
a sheep looking down at you as he chomps
away on the grass roof! The yurts are
roomy, colourful and romantic. The gypsy
caravan is beautifully furnished and rather
luxurious.
The night I stayed, a full moon hung in the
sky, deeply yellow like a giant mimollette
cheese, it looked closer than I have ever
seen. I sat on the steps of my caravan,
listening to frogs croaking, a gentle baaaa
now and again, birds singing sweetly in the
night air and just a few crickets up for a late
night party. Otherwise the night was silent,
the stars shine so brightly I could see the
outline of the trees and the pretty duck
house though the ducks had long gone to
sleep. The night air was filled with the scent
of blossom and fresh grass, clear and clean.
When I turned in for the night, a little
reluctant to end the magical moment with
nature, I slept like a baby.

wine tasting
Vineyards were first planted in the area in
the 1st century but it was in 1884 that
Madame Amiot set up Veuve Amiot to
make the sparkling wine for which the area
is famous. The tuffeau, a local Loire
limestone, in the soil gives it a unique taste.
Though its made in the same way as
champagne with the same grapes it cannot
be called champagne as it's not produced
in the strictly controlled areas of the
champagne region.
Veuve Amiot make 300 million bottles a
year – and it’s delicious! You can take a
free tour and tasting which is available in
English, but you need to book in advance
via their website: veuveamiot.fr
This is the only area in France to produce
sparkling red wine – drink it chilled, it’s
utterly lush. You can buy online from www.
iziwine but the postage is expensive, much
more fun to go and buy it!
Monmousseau also do tours and tastings.
They have a fabulous Lumière show in the
caves which are completely covered in
bright lights.
The sparkling wine is matured for a
minimum of three years and is very popular
in the US where its been exported to for a
century. Next time you raise a glass, think
of those grapes growing in the soil of the
Loire valley and resting in the the cool dark
caves where it's matured. Website:
monmousseau.com

Gardens of
Chaumont-sur-Loire
Think Kew Gardens meets Chelsea flower
show with French flair and a stunning
chateau thrown in for good measure.
Set in enormous grounds the annual
Festival International des Jardins is an
unmissable event showcasing the work of
gardeners, architects and designers. Unlike
Chelsea Flower Show, this event lasts from
April to November meaning far less
crowds.
Somewhere special...
Head to the restaurant Vincent Cuisiner de
Campagne (19 rue de la Galottiere, 37140
Ingrandes-de-Touraine) where chef Vincent
prepares daily deliciousness using only
seasonal, local food produced in his garden
or close by. There's a maximum of 10-12
guests for each service so book ahead - it's
worth it. facebook.com/galotiere
You really need a whole day here to enjoy
the permanent and temporary gardens that
change each year. It is immense - and not
to be rushed. Take a picnic or enjoy lunch
in the pretty restaurant. It's makes for a
relaxing visit in which you can truly
appreciate the surroundings and the
chateau.
www.domaine-chaumont.fr

Loire Mushroom caves
Deep inside the cool dark Caves des
Roches at Bourré something is growing...
slowly, silently and surely.
These are several famous funghi farms of
the Loire Valley and this is one of the best.
Here they pick 1000kg of mushrooms a
week, grown in 12km of galleries on seven
levels. They thrive in a natural atmosphere
which ensures the most taste; they’re
delivered all over France and around the
world. The special Pied Bleu mushrooms
grow here – destined for the very best
restaurants. Oyster, Shitake and Paris
button mushrooms are quite a sight to see,
growing from the damp blocks that imitate
a woodland setting - the smell is incredible,
earthy and mysterious.
There's another secret in these caves: a
giant sculpture of a medieval village carved
in the stone by former mushroom pickers
during their breaks. It's closed to the public
as the stone discolours if touched, and they
want to keep the sculpture safe for future
generations.
Take a one hour tour, and don’t miss the
chance to buy the freshest mushrooms.
Take them home and fry them in butter with
a little seasoning and some grated fresh
garlic - absolutely delicious, a taste of the
Loire. www.le-champignon.com
Practical information:
Discover loads more things to to in the Loire at www.valdeloire-france.com; www.
anjou-tourisme.com; angersloiretourism.com; www.ot-saumer.fr; www.tourainevalley.
com and www.coeur-val-de-loire.com

For ages my friends who live in Haute Savoie have been urging me to visit. I’ve told
them I’m a rubbish skier and prone to falling over. “Come in the summer then
" they said “Annecy and the ski resorts are so beautiful then – you’ll love it”. Well I
couldn’t resist such a tempting prospect, so on a sunny July day I took the train to
Annecy, a surprisingly easy few hours from Paris...
Summer in the mountains
When the winter snow melts and the sweet
spring air rolls over the mountain tops, the
French Alps undergo an astonishing
transformation. White turns to green,
carpets of wildflowers blossom and the
lakes reflect the deep blue sky.
Up in the mountains, summer
temperatures can be high and sunbathing
is just one of the many activities on offer. If
you like sports and adventure then you’ll
love the French Alps when it’s not ski
season. White water rafting, abseiling,
mountain biking, swimming,
mountaineering, golf, hiking and so much
more make the French Alps one of the
most fun places to go for active holidays.
And for foodies, this area is paradise with
its lovely street markets, local cheeses and
a whole raft of delicious specialities.
Prepare to be won over by Summer in the
French Alps!

Awesome Annecy
Annecy is known as the petit Venice des
Alpes thanks to its famous lake plus a
network of little canals criss crossing the
town. It’s a truly beautiful small city that’s
blessed with more than one gorgeous lake,
local ski resorts, stunningly pretty villages
close by, awesome views, and fabulous
local produce - including the most
delicious cheese.
(caused by plankton on the bottom of the
lake) is said to be the purest in Europe, fed
by melted snow on the mountains.
Pop into the Annecy Tourist office – there’s
always something going on from festivals
to exhibitions: lac-annecy.com
The old town of Annecy is an absolute
must see, it’s not huge and is easy to walk
around but pick up a map from the tourist
office to get your bearings because there
are lots of winding narrow roads and it
would be easy to miss something - and
you don't want to do that!
Annecy’s most famous attraction is of
course it’s lake, one of the most beautiful
in the world. The turquoise coloured water

Annecy Ski Resorts are sensational
summer destinations
The fabulous French alpine resorts of La
Clusaz, Le Grand Bornand, Manigod and
Saint Jean de Sixt perched on the majestic
Aravis Range, have joined to become Lake
Annecy Ski Resorts. Most people know
them only for ski holidays but they also
make for a stunning break in spring,
summer and autumn.
You really need wheels to be able to get
around and see the area fully here, and
driving on the mountainous roads with
sensational views is just the icing on the
cake. Tiny villages with gorgeous
restaurants, fabulous street markets,
cycling and walking routes and the most
sports activities I’ve ever come across in
one area make this an amazing summer
playground. And there are so many
surprises here.

Col de la Forclaz
From Talloires it’s a
short drive to what is
possibly one of the
most stunning view
points and best selfie
spots in France – the
Col de la Forclaz. From
the lofty peak of this
picturesque place,
paragliders take off,
whizzing over your
head as you swoon at
the colours of the Lake
below. Cow bells tinkle
like a fairy orchestra in
the mountains and the
scent of lush meadow
flowers under a deep
blue sky lull you into
tranquillity.
The Divine Abbaye de Talloires
It will take you about an hour to drive all
the way round Lake Annecy Lake, 5 hours
by bike or, you can take a water taxi (watertaxi.fr)
which is great fun and gives you
fabulous views.
There are 12 beaches to enjoy and in
summer they’re a perfect place to relax. I
headed for the town of Talloires which is
about 13km from Annecy, to spend a night
in a gorgeous former 17th century
monastery that’s been converted to a
luxurious hotel. You may think that a
monk’s cell might be a bit small as a
bedroom but the monks that lived here had
it good, the rooms are huge. The whole
place is very beautiful and there are
frequent exhibitions of artworks at the
hotel.
There’s a private pontoon and an early
morning dip is irresistible in what Winston
Churchill described as “the most beautiful
bay in the world”. In summer the
temperature of the water in Lake Annecy is
around 22°C.
The 4*Hotel Abbaye de Talloires is where
the first ever colour photo was taken in
1902. French physicist Gabriel Lippman
captured the lovely cloisters for posterity.
They’re still there and make for a
sensational spot for an aperitif, Mark Twain
the famous American writer who stayed
here, thought so too. The restaurant is
fantastic and Charly, the famous sommelier
chooses wines that make you feel happy.
Talloires is a tranquil little town and very
pretty with plenty of water activities but I
recommend you hire an electric boat and
discover a secret grotto and the blue lake
painted by the artist Cezanne who stayed
at the Abbaye in 1896.

Take Faverges. It’s a small town with a
wonderful Wednesday morning street
market, shops and restaurants. It’s been
put on the global map by a local butchers
shop, run by two brothers who make a
speciality sausage known as Pormontier –
said to be the best in France. In the Haut-
Savoie, these boiled sausages are a legend,
every family will have their own recipe and
it includes spinach or cabbage or chard.
The sausages are eaten with potatoes – a
hearty meal for the mountain people. I
popped into the shop and asked Monsieur
Le Butcher if I could see his famous
sausages, the ones that were filmed the
day before by a film crew for a Japanese TV
programme. He might make good bangers
but he didn’t have much of a sense of
humour and gave me a stern look and
asked his assistant to help me. But still –
they are very tasty!
There are wonderful places to walk and
even a grotto hidden in a forest to explore.
Take a guided tour of the Grotte de
Seythenex and wear sensible shoes for
your trip as this natural hole in the ground
has a steep descent. Enjoy the beautiful
riverside walk and views over the steep
ravine with its waterfall and if you’re feeling
adventurous – take on the giant zipline! A
visit here makes for a great day out twinned
with a trip to nearby La Sambuy.
If you’re there when the “Cabin Festival”
takes place (15 May – 8 July 2017) you’re in
for a treat. In a woodland and watery
setting, architects and designers create
cabins from natural materials that will make
you smile.
Find out more about the local area and
what's on: www.sources-lac-annecy.com
Thones is a chocolate box pretty place and
home to Reblochon cheese makers, the
piquant cows milk cheese that’s delicious
and perfect for the mountain dish tartiflette.
(Click here to read about my visit to a
grandmother/granddaughter cheese
making outfit and a tartiflette recipe).
Head to the nearby Montremont fish farm
where there’s a restaurant that specialises
in trout dishes. Looking like something out
of the land of the Hobbits, in summer the
garden twinkles under tiny lights, and it’s
incredibly pretty and very laid back.

Le Grand Bornand
This town is a popular summer destination
with the French and no wonder, it’s really
buzzing. There are delicious gourmet food
shops, ravishing restaurants like
Restaurant Confins des Sens which has a
chic chalet ambience, sports activities
galore and the air is fresh and sweet.
It’s also where you’ll find the shop of Didier
Perrillat, one of the last leather artisans left
in Haute-Savoie. In his tiny shop he makes
all manner of things from purses to bags
and key fobs but he’s famous for the
leather necklaces he makes for cows! Did
you know every cow has a unique bell and
a good farmer can recognise an individual
cow by its ring? Well those bells have to
hang on something and Didier makes
beautiful straps for special cows! I'm told
that cows here wear day time bells but in
their closets they may have a special
“dress” bell which is much bigger and
heavier and worn for shows and special
occasions! You can watch Didier creating
in his pretty shop Chez Le Bourrelier
with its mountain views. located in the
main road of Le Grand Bornand.
Head up into the mountains for more
glorious scenery and fabulous restaurants.
A short drive from Le Grand Bornand you’ll
find the Col des Aravis, and at 1498m it has
magnificent views that take your breath
away. Those ski lifts that make skiers life
easy, also work in the summer and make
for a fun ride.
Enjoy a meal high up in the fresh air, there’s
nothing quite like it to whet your appetite
and there’s lots of great choice. For views,
ambiance and scrumptious dishes,
Restaurant les Rhodos ticks all the boxes.
Find out more about the history of the area,
life in the past and Reblochon cheese at
the new Le Hameau des Alpes museum
near La Clusaz. Interactive exhibitions and
great photos make this a fascinating visit.

Take a trip to Distilleries des Aravis where
Mathieu Castellano runs a family liqueur
manufacturing company. In the grand
tradition of liqueurs in France ‘Génépi’, a
sort of gin, was created by a monk in 1878.
The great grandfather of the current owner
was a fan of Génépi. He bought the
company and built the atelier where it’s still
produced in La Clusaz. It’s like a taste of
mountains and herbs in a bottle, and it’s
strong! These days Matthieu makes
around 45 kinds liqueurs from lavender to
melon, raspberry, pear, prunes, a
scrumptious limoncello, absinthe and a
prize winning pastis, quite different from
the Marseille one, with a sprig of fennel
that's put in the bottle by hand.
Matthieu “and is very good for a cocktail
base especially mojitos”. He honours the
heritage of his ancestors and the traditions
of making liqueur, using an old copper still.
“Even the crates we keep the bottles in are
older than me” he jokes.
You’ll find the eye catching bottles on sale
in local shops.
“Genepi makes for a great digestif” says
Perfect summer holiday
The French Alps are not just about snow and après-ski, for a holiday where you’ll feel like
you’ve experience something really spectacular with the most amazing scenery,
activities and food – look no further than the Annecy ski resorts in spring and summer.
Find lots more information at www.lakeannecy-skiresorts.com

find your dream home in Annecy
Lake Annecy is a truly amazing area for those who are fond of outdoor activities all year
round says local property agent Mara Junekere. Cycling, mountain-biking, hiking,
climbing, paragliding, sailing, skiing and many more activities are to be enjoyed. And of
course the views over lake Annecy and mountains always make me feel like I am living
in a "carte postale". Annecy is the capital of Haute-Savoie, just 30 minutes drive from
Geneva. It is known for its old town and river Thiou winding through the medieval
cobbled streets. Some call it the little Venice of the Alps and its lake is considered to be
the cleanest in Europe and offers a vast choice of beaches all around it. There are
numerous events throughout the year including the Venetian Carnival. You have a
choice of numerous ski resorts just 30 minutes drive from the town. La Clusaz, Le Grand
Bornand and Manigod are called Lake Annecy Ski Resorts and offer 220 km of excellent
skiing conditions. This THE place for all outdoor sports fans year round - and the
gastronomy is scrumptious!
Attractive 4 bedroom detached house with
spectacular mountain and lake views in the
lovely village of Talloires. A few minutes to
Lake Annecy and close to the ski resort of
Clusaz.
Click here for more details
€590,000
Detached 4 en-suite bedroom chalet with
lake view in Talloires. Located on the east
bank of Lake Annecy, currently run as a
successful B&B with potential for a
family/holiday home, walking distance to
beach.
Click here for more details
€837 900
Amazing 8 bedroom, 7 bathroom lake
Annecy waterfront villa with private deck.
This unique property is beautifully
decorated and would make a perfect
family or second home with excellent
business potential
Click here for more details
Click here to see Mara's portfolio of charming properties in the Annecy area

Lucy Pitts ventures into the weird and wonderful world of Futuroscope
A fantastically bizarre
day out
Futuroscope is brilliant although I was
nearly sick on the first ride. To be fair
though, I’m 47, hadn’t had any breakfast
and it probably wasn’t designed for me. But
my kids aged 6, 9 and 11 loved it.
If you haven’t heard of Futuroscope, what
exactly is it? Well put at its simplest, it’s a
theme park just outside Poitiers based on
multimedia, cinematography and audiovisual
techniques, with 3D and 4D
attractions, some of which are unique in the
world. But that doesn’t really do justice to
this insanely bizarre and utterly French
experience.
We started with the Vienne Dynamique,
one of the top attractions and the one that
made me feel sick. If you can imagine being
strapped into a seat in a simulator and then
taken on a journey which involved a
magical spitting tree (yes we got wet), a
bride groom late for his wedding and a full
throttle journey journey that had

us jumping off a train, flying through the sky
over the Vienne, driving a racing car through
the back streets of a tiny village and firing
down a river in a very small boat at top
speed, you might begin to understand when
I say it’s quirky. Despite feeling sick, I loved
every second.
My guts took a further pounding with
another 4D simulator experience Arthur and
the world of the Minimoys. If you don’t
know what that’s all about (and I didn’t),
imagine climbing into the driving seat of a
bug the size of a ladybird and having to
take the controls at high speed. I think we
went down a drain, definitely nearly got
sucked up by a frog’s tongue and ran into a
swarm of angry looking black insects who
appeared to be out to destroy us. Brilliant if
slightly bizarre.
But it’s not all about making mothers feel
sick, and France’s first ever IMAX 4K laser
cinema is genuinely fantastic. With Stephen
Fry doing the commentary, you’re taken
deep into the tiny world of a chipmunk and
mouse. Imagine being smaller than a snake
as it throws its mouth wide open and
prepares for the kill, or seeing the hairy legs
of a giant mouse eating spider reach out to
grab you and gobble you up!
Other favourite attractions for my kids
included the Futur l’Expo where they got to
try out technology including magic mirrors,
robots and eating food of the future that
made them blow smoke out of their noses!
And who doesn’t want to do that? And of
course Dancing with Robots was a massive
hit. Thankfully the man on the door warned
us to view it before we tried it as it was
nothing like what I’d expected or seen in the
trailers. You’re strapped into a chair at the
end of a giant robotic arm and basically
thrown around in the air! You can imagine
the children loved it but my stomach and I
preferred to stay on the ground.
Pictures: top left
Vienne Dynamique;
left IMAX 4K laser
cinema; above
Dancing with Robots

There are 22 main attractions in total and
lots and lots else to explore. You really do
need two days or a pair of long distance
walking shoes and a sense of endurance.
In one day we managed about 13 of the
main attractions as well as the night show
but we barely stopped for a breather.
The timing of the night show varies
according to light conditions. Put on by the
Cirque du Soleil, on our visit this involved a
2CV driving on water, a sound, light and
para-technique display, a giant hologram, a
moon and a massive firework display. I
didn’t quite follow all the details of the
story which seemed to be broadly along
the lines of giant hologram boy meets girl,
puts girl on the moon and then runs into
trouble, and we’d surrendered our headsets
by then. But hey, I don’t think the detail was
that important.
For tamer rides you can travel through time
with the Raving Rabbids whilst sitting on a
toilet, experience the Ice Age, dive to the
bottom of the ocean with Jacques
Cousteau and discover a tiny microscopic
world and the inside of a spider’s web.
There are also live shows including the
iMagic show which we missed because of
timings, and the Mysteries of the Cube
which involved some risky gymnastics.
“Not quite what I was expecting” as my
daughter said, more or less summing up
the whole day.
In my admittedly very limited experience,
French theme parks are in a league of their
own (just think of Puy dy Fou for a start)
and Futuroscope is no exception. It wasn’t
what I was expecting and I generally dread
the idea of long queues and lots of people
but the park is spacious and even includes
giant bean bags for you to take a break on.
I saw elderly couples on their own enjoying
the rides and all the staff are really helpful
and nice. The park is also easy to navigate
(if big and a good day’s walk).

TOP TIPS FOR A FAB VISIT
Try and avoid peak times, in particular
the first three weeks in August.
A “Pass Premium” at 15€/person gives
you priority to all the simulators in the
park plus a discount in all the shops. If
you’ve only got one day (there is a
hotel if you want to stay), it’s well worth
it. Apart from feeling extremely
important, you save time on queuing
and can squeeze more in!
Get a map with a timetable on it
available in English at the gate. Some
of the big attractions have a last show
at 4pm and you don’t want to miss
them.
The English headset is free with the
ticket and worth-while. Bring your own
headphones or pay 1€ per pair.
It’s one of those places that if you’re in the area
or anywhere close (I was nearly a 2 hour drive
away but it was still well worth it), a visit is a
must. Like I said, stomach churning at times for
the wimps amongst you, funny, odd, exciting,
peculiar, surprising, informative and a totally
bonkers way to spend a day. I’m already
planning my next trip back and the kids are still
buzzing!
Directions and prices
There's an English language website:
Futuroscope.com with a map of the park and
directions. it’s well sign posted for miles
around. Parking is easy but paid and there’s
also a TGV train station.
Book on line or buy at tickets at the gate.
Prices vary and also include “breaks” for 2 or 3
nights. A basic family ticket for 4 for one day,
booked up to 7 days in advance is 34€/person
(check to verify prices in case of change.
Some rides have minimum height
restrictions although I saw what
looked like very young children on
quite bumpy rides.
The late night spectacular is fantastic
but beware getting stuck in the car
park with the crowds. Get your seats
early at the top of the auditorium, close
to the exit and leave 5 minutes before
the end. You'll get a unique viewof the
finale firework display and you drive
straight out of a still deserted car park.
At 10pm or later and with a long drive
home, that makes all the difference.
The worry with some theme parks is
that eating there will leave you close to
financially destitute but actually we
had an evening meal for 4 at just over
43€. My kids had burger in a pancake
followed by chocolate in a pancake
and couldn’t have been happier. And
for the grown-ups, carafes and half
carafes of rosé are available too.

Marché international de Rungis –
the new belly of Paris
Peter Jones makes an early morning visit to the world's biggest fresh food market
It was Emile Zola who named the huge food market of Paris called Les Halles, “the belly
of Paris”. The wonderful Parisian photographer Robert Doisneau captured its vibrant life
in photos for nearly 50 years before it was closed in 1969 after more than 800 years of
trading, a piece of Paris history gone forever…
Well, not quite. Peter Jones visits the International Market of Rungis, the replacement
market on the outskirts of inner Paris.
A few mind blowing figures first:
Rungis International Market is the world’s largest wholesale fresh food market, in fact it’s
larger than Monaco
More than 8 billion euros a year are spent here every year
More than 12,000 people work there

A guided tour of Rungis
It’s not your usual tourist destination in
Paris, but a tour of this incredible market
makes for a fascinating visit.
If you want to go to this market you need to
get up very early in the morning, guided
tours start at 5am. Fortunately it’s a quick
trip from the centre of Paris. When you
arrive here it feels like a bustling city within
the city. Hundreds of lorries and vans of all
types fill the streets - there are 26,000
vehicles delivering every day. It’s a mind
blowing sight.
Rungis is strictly wholesale, only holders of
a purchasing card can buy and whilst the
card is free, its issue is very strictly
controlled and only available to
professionals.
Rungis operates when most of us are
asleep with the main action taking place
much earlier than the organised tour allows
for.
Take the Marée pavilion dedicated to
shellfish and seafood. It’s one of the stars of
Rungis opening for business at 2 am. Their
proud boast is that they sell the freshest
fish in France – it takes less than 24 hours
from port to plate. Before the days of rapid
transport, by the time fish arrived in the
capital from the coast it was starting to go
off. A skilful fishmonger would remove all
the bad bits with a sharp knife leaving two
“fillets“ of eatable fish - hence the term “fish
fillets”. These days the port to plate process
is speedy, hygienic and slick.
The Triperie Pavilion is not for the
squeamish or faint hearted. Looking like a
scene from a horror film, there are bins full
of entrails, kidneys, pigs trotters and bits
you probably won't recognise. Particularly
gruesome is a demonstration of the
preparation of the great French classic Tete
de Veau. A giant of a worker clad like a
medieval knight in protective chain mail
takes hold of the boiled head of a cow.

In two minutes, he reduced it into various
delicacies all wrapped and ready to be sold
to the restaurants and butchers shops of
Paris… it was enough to make me want to
turn vegetarian.
The meat pavilion was wall to wall with
carcasses of pork, lamb and venison. There
were crates and crates of poultry and
game. Huge joints of mouth-watering ribs
of beef caught my eye making me forget
my vegetarian musings.
Rungis is a working market and you get the
impression that for some who work here,
visitors are to be tolerated rather than
welcomed. No surprise, these people are
working their socks off while everyone is at
home sleeping. You need to keep on your
toes to avoid being run over by a horn
blowing mini truck or worse still - falling
into a bin of pigs entrails.
cheeses of all shapes and sizes from
mouth size portions of Cabachou to wheels
of Ementhal weighing 175 kilos. You can
taste some, though at 5.30 in the morning it
takes a bit of getting used to.
Next up, fruit and veg. Stunning produce
from all over the world including stuff that I
have never heard of and one fruit that
looked positively frightening. A bit of
French humour was on show at a stall of
French beans from a producer whose name
was “Larry Cover” , a clever play on “Le
haricot vert” (French beans).
Organic fruit and vegetables also now have
a place in Rungis albeit a smaller pavilion
but with over 40 different operators. There’s
also a Fresh Flower pavilion where a truly
stunning kaleidoscope of colours and
perfumes from all over the world wowed.
If you’re a fromage fan you will love the
cheese pavilion, it’s the world biggest
cheese shop. Everywhere you look are

After looking at some of the best produce in
the world it’s time for food and, it’s part of
the tour. Rungis has many restaurants and
cafés within the market and whilst it may be
breakfast for us visitors, it’s lunchtime for
the market workers. Tables groan under the
weight of pastries, cheeses, saucissons,
hams, fruit and many other foodstuffs that
you don’t’ see at a breakfast table every day
- including an excellent Bordeaux and a very
quaff-able Sancerre.
Paris is a magical city with much to tempt.
From Notre Dame, Sacré Coeur, the charm of
the Eiffel Tower that never dulls, taking
coffee and people watching But, if you have
an interest in food and where it comes from
then Rungis, the new belly of Paris, off the
beaten track for sure, should be at the top of
your list of must dos.
Find the details for booking a tour on the Rungis market website: /www.
rungisinternational.com Tours are by coach from Paris and cost €85 per person
www.SAS-Stockloc.com

Win a gorgeous gift box of goodies
from Paris
La Parisienne, a collection of lovely things
from France. We love the fabulous gift boxes
from Le Cadeau Francais. From the pretty
oh-so-French packaging to the gorgeous
goodies inside. This box is full of delightfully
feminine goodies.
Click on the pic to enter the draw!
W
V
A
p
U
b
F
The Can-Can Girl: and the mysterious Woman in
Pink by Pamela Boles Eglinski
The world of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, the Belle Epoque,
and the bohemian life of artists and writers in 1900 Paris
are vividly brought to life in this time travel tale...
We're sorry - this draw is now done. There will be more
competitions in the next issue of The Good LIfe France
Magazine, so don't forget to subscribe!
Win a copy of One Sip at a Time: Learning to
Live in Provence by Keith Van Sickle
Follow their adventures (and misadventures) of a couple
as they quit their jobs, become consultants and split
their time between two countries.
We're sorry - this draw is now done. There will be more
competitions in the next issue of The Good LIfe France
Magazine, so don't forget to subscribe!
More Give Aways - PAGE 20

in a copy of Itinéraire en Provence : Haut-Var,
erdon, Ubaye by Susan Knapp
book of 76 wonderful ‘postcards’ of Provence beautifully
ainted by artist Susan Knapp of the Haut-Var, Verdon,
baye region. We're sorry - this draw is now done. There will
e more competitions in the next issue of The Good LIfe
rance Magazine, so don't forget to subscribe!
Win a copy of On trying
to become a French
Paysan by Garry
Holding
No holds barred, frank look
at rural French life.
Absorbing reading, whether
you are just looking for a
good story, or you decide to
make the move.
Click on the Picture to enter
the draw!
The Paris Effect by Karen S Burns
Friendship, loss and a tantalizing trip to
Paris in this highly praised #1 Amazon
Best Seller! Grab a croissant and settle
in for a decidedly non-touristy trip to the
City of Light.
We're sorry - this draw is now done.
There will be more competitions in the
next issue of The Good LIfe France
Magazine, so don't forget to subscribe!
Win a copy of the Art of Rebellion by Brenda Leahy
The adventures of a young woman who flees to Paris in the
1900s to escape an arranged marriage to dicover the world of
artists and passion..
We're sorry - this draw is now done. There will be more
competitions in the next issue of The Good LIfe France
Magazine, so don't forget to subscribe!

Cheesy Lessons
by Keith Van Sickle, an American in Provence
When my wife Val and I began spending
time in France, we knew that we had much
to learn. There was the language, of course,
but also the customs and quirks of the
French. Little did we know that some of our
most memorable lessons would be about
cheese.
One lesson came when we had our first
meal at a Michelin-starred restaurant. It
was at Le Cep in Beaune, in the heart of the
Burgundy wine country. The meal started at
8pm and went on until almost midnight.
Course after course of wonderful food
arrived. We were stuffed! And then they
wheeled out the cheese cart.
This was our first experience with a cheese
course and Le Cep’s cart was enormous. It
looked like an aircraft carrier! There were
dozens of different cheeses, beautifully
arranged. But without labels.
The waiter indicated that we should choose
what we would like. We were flummoxed,
as our knowledge of cheese was quite
limited back then - Monterey Jack, Cheddar
and Parmesan pretty much covered it.
Luckily for me, the lady always chooses first
in France. I could let Val sort it out and
follow her lead.
Val, always clever, explained that we were
new to this game and would the waiter
please recommend a nice selection?

Which he kindly did, choosing seven
cheeses and making a circle of them
around the edge of her plate. He told Val
that she should start with number one
and work her way around to number
seven.
I asked for the same selection and soon
we were happily munching away. The
cheeses were delicious! The first was a
mild chevre and the others got
progressively more full-bodied.
Val eats faster than I do and she was the
first to taste cheese number seven. She
smiled with pleasure and said, “Oh, this is
good. Take a big bite!”
I should have known better.
Have you ever eaten Époisses? It’s
usually described as “pungent” – now
there’s a word! It is so strong that it sears
the inside of your mouth. You can’t taste
much of anything after you eat it.
Yes, cheese number seven was an
Époisses. Definitely not something to
take a big bite of. But as I blissfully went
ahead and started chewing, my eyes
began to water and I urgently looked for a
way to spit it out.
But here we were in Le Cep, an elegant
Michelin-starred restaurant and that’s just
not done. So I wiped my eyes and kept
going while Val covered her mouth and
giggled.
I love Époisses today but let’s just say it’s
an acquired taste. And I had not yet
acquired it.
Lesson #1:
Try it, you’ll like it!
(eventually)

Another lesson was during the election for
the European Parliament. About a dozen
political parties had slates of candidates
running.
The conservative party had a televised rally
to fire up the troops and get out the vote.
We decided to watch it, figuring it would
give us insight into the important political
issues of the day. Plus it would be good for
our French.
It is in the most unlikely places that you
learn what moves French hearts.
A few days later the results came in and the
conservative party was the big winner. They
far outperformed the pre-election polls.
Most of the speeches were boring, with the
usual applause lines. There were shoutouts
to dignitaries in the audience,
potshots at the competition, promises to
lead France boldly into the future. The
crowd clapped politely but there wasn’t a
lot of real enthusiasm.
Then things got exciting.
The final speaker was wrapping up his
speech and wanted to go out on a high
note. “We will work with the European
Union on initiatives like the electric car," he
thundered, "but we will defend ourselves
against those bureaucrats in Brussels
when it comes to important French
interests like"...(dramatic pause)...
"RAW MILK CHEESE!”
Suddenly, the crowd went wild, cheering
and stamping their feet, throwing things in
the air. It was like Charles de Gaulle had
just liberated Paris.
Val turned to me. “Did he really say raw
milk cheese?” she asked. “That’s crazy!”
The next day we asked some French
friends about this. It’s true, they said, and
they were outraged. They explained that
there was a move afoot to force cheese
makers across Europe to pasteurize their
milk. “This will make the cheese tasteless!”
they cried. “Tasteless food – the English
must be behind it! “
"Tell me what you
eat and I'll tell you
who you are..."
Jean Anthelme Brillat-
Savarin (was a French lawyer
and politician, who gained
fame as an epicure and
gastronome. The famous raw
milk cheese is named after
him...
Lesson #2:
Never underestimate the power
of cheese.
Keith Van Sickle splits his time between
Silicon Valley and Provence. He is the
author of One Sip at a Time: Learning to
Live in Provence.
Read more at Keith's blog: Life in Provence.

We talk to Charlotte Field from the UK about life as an expat in charming Chinon,
Loire Valley where she has lived for eight years and works as a local agent for Leggett
Immobilier, the award winning French Estate Agency…
Where are you from and how did you
come to be living in France?
I was brought up in Surrey, England and my
husband in Paris, France. We met and
married in London and soon after I
transferred to work in Brussels where we
spent six happy years. Our eldest son (now
11) was born in Brussels (and dislikes me
referring to him as my Brussels Sprout) and
it was whilst on holiday with him, then a
baby of six months, that we came to the
Loire Valley for the first time. Our three
subsequent children (now three, five and
seven) were born here and feel more French
than British – though they do enjoy Mr
Bean and Digestive biscuits dipped in tea
so all is not lost! Seriously though, they
have been in the school system here from
the start and we have been very happy with
it on lots of levels – we have the joy of
small village schools (about 45 children
over four years at maternelle and primaire)
where they benefit from a varied
programme of academic, artistic, cultural
and sporting activities not forgetting the
cooked-fresh-on–the-premises four course
lunch every day!

What inspired you to move to the
Loire Valley?
We are close to Chinon – a medieval town
about halfway down France, home of the
Plantagenet kings, resting place of Richard
the Lionheart, the start of Joan of Arc’s
tragic mission, oh and did I mention home
to over 300 winemakers? We didn’t have
to look too far for inspiration. After years of
watching other people do it on TV and
thinking ‘could we do that?’ my ardent wine
fan husband and I gave up our corporate
careers aged 35. We packed up our small
boy to live a simpler countryside life,
renovate a small but beautifully formed
château, set up our guesthouse and a wine
exporting business.
Did you need to do a lot of renovation
to your French house?
It was a wreck with a reasonable roof, but
we had renovated houses before – albeit
nothing on this scale. Everything needed
doing, plumbing, heating, electricity,
plastering not to mention the wild outdoors
and at times it felt like it would never end,
looking back at the photos now I am still
surprised we made it! It wouldn’t have
happened without the pragmatic approach
of the husband of course, who segmented
each priority area, got our accommodation
ready first, and then we worked day and
night over the next year to get the main
house open for business. Each winter we
have done some further renovation work
and opened more guest accommodation
and entertaining spaces while there aren’t
so many tourists around. We were very
lucky with some of the younger local
tradesmen who were just setting up their
own businesses – our site represented a lot
of work for them, and we became a
reference client; in return if ever we have a
problem they will usually be here in a flash.

What made you fall in love with this
part of France?
The relaxed pace of life: it can be
frustrating when you are used to a 24/7
world but here businesses close at
lunchtimes and on Sundays, people work
to live, they don’t live to work; and I think
that’s a healthier way of viewing life.
The architecture is also gorgeous round
here – beautiful tuffeau stone, slate
rooves, turrets and wrought iron twirls –
just my thing!
Any top tips that you learned when
searching for your house?
We only visited five or six properties, in the
end, and went with our instinct – this one
just kept us awake at night with
excitement and although we knew it
wasn’t the most logical purchase, it was
the one we loved.

Do you consider yourself a member of
the local community?
After London, Paris and Brussels I think
one thing we were both a bit nervous about
in moving to a village of 500 people (with
just as many goats) was whether or not we
would meet people and make new friends.
We were lucky having a school aged child
because I got involved with the Parents
Association from the outset helping
organise fundraising events. Even with my
limited French back then it gave my first
network of school mums and meant I
didn’t stand alone at the school gate for
long! It also gave me a forum to ask daft
questions when I didn’t understand
something having never experienced the
French school system myself.
I also found some brilliantly supportive
Social Network groups for English
speaking women in France through which I
have had the great pleasure to meet some
truly lovely people, as well as through the
two local English speaking churches. My
husband has developed his wine
businesses, and got to know plenty of the
local Vignerons. He has also been elected
onto the Council which has given him a
network of his own!
What would you do on a day off in
your area?
With the children, our favourite day out is
the Bioparc at Doué la Fontaine – hands
down the best zoo I’ve ever seen - so much
so that we buy annual passes! Without the
children my husband and I really enjoy a
wander round Tours or Angers – both are
fantastic cities, great for shopping, great for
eating out, plenty to discover among the
historic buildings and galleries.

Tell us a little about your job...
Every client is different and when they are
looking for a home – be it a permanent
move or a holiday residence – I really enjoy
spending a bit of time finding out what
they like doing and what is motivating their
move. The most recent sale I handled is a
new home for a British couple who have
just purchased a gorgeous gite complex
close to Richelieu. That moment in the
notaire’s office when everyone shakes
hands and congratulates each other is
always feels so full of emotion – the end of
a long journey in some ways, and the brink
of a new adventure; that for me is the
satisfaction of a job well done!
What 3 key pieces of advice do you
give to your clients when they’re
looking for property in the area?
To visit a few properties on the same day –
you might love the first one but a
comparison point is always useful
To do your second visit at a different time
of day, when the light, the traffic etc might
be different
To keep your mind open for a
compromise – sometimes people have
such long lists of criteria they rule out a
property that could have been (almost)
perfect!

FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
Once the hunting grounds of the French kings and noblemen, the Loire Valley is a
treasure trove of chateaux and historic monuments and many stunning historic palaces
including Azay le Rideau, Villandry and Langeais. However the area’s appeal doesn’t stop
there: if fantastic wineries, wonderful fresh food and a laid back pace of life float your
boat, this is the spot! The meandering Loire and Vienne rivers are close by, cycling along
the towpaths, canoeing and fishing not to mention leisurely boat cruises are available
here all year round. Fabulous medieval towns (Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur) a-plenty, most
of them with weekly markets, a haven for slow-food afficionados. If you plan a life/work
balance, the tourism sector is vibrant here (gite rentals and B&B/restaurant opportunities)
and many people commute successfully to the UK by air from Poitiers or Tours (both
have regular flights to Stansted) or by TGV high speed train which serves Tours in under
an hour from Paris.
Enjoy the wonderful views across
medieval Chinon from this spacious
fully renovated 2 bedroom 2
bathroom home
Click here for more details
€199 000
Gorgeous Presbytery about 10
minutes from Chinon in pretty village
with pool and gardens...
Click here for more details
€499 000
€1 099 500
Stunning Manor house in impeccable
condition, with gardens, pool and
truffle orchard - irresistible!
Click here for more details
Click here to see Charlotte's portfolio of gorgeous properties in the Loire Valley

The Good Life
...in Paris
Janine Marsh talks to Australian in Paris
Sandra Iskander, Editor of Where Paris
Magazine about life in Paris and gets the
insider's view of where to go and what to see...
When was your first visit to
Paris?
It was back in 2004 that I visited Paris for
the first time. I intended to stay for a year.
I was always obsessed with Paris and the
idea of living here and so I resigned from
my job and decided to give it a go.
"I came to Paris for 12
months, and I've been
here for 13 years..."
Just before I was to head back home, as I
was aching to get back into working with
magazines, and working in publishing
proved a little bit difficult in Paris, I came
across an ad for an editor’s role at Where
Paris and so I applied. I think it was fate
that I saw the ad when I did or else I
would have gone back home and not
have had the incredible experience I have
been so fortunate in having up until now. I
got the role and I have been here ever
since.
Is there anything that you miss
from Australia?
Besides my family and friends I would
have to say I miss how friendly Aussies
are and just how everyone smiles all the
time. Having been away from home I
realise it really is the simple things, and
the little things, that I miss the most.

What’s a typical day for an
editor of a Paris magazine?
I am lucky that I get to do what I love
and that every day is very different. I
could be in front of my computer all day
today replying to emails, writing articles
or editing and approving layouts, and
tomorrow I could be running around all
day discovering new things for my
readers, from the coolest bars to the
season’s must-have accessory.
If you want to get out of the
city – where do you go?
Home! And if I cannot get away long
enough to get back to Melbourne I love
to spend a weekend in London, Italy or
a couple of days in Dubai to get some
sun.
What are your favourite bars in
Paris?
I love Manko, they make the best Pisco
Sour, and Hotel Costes for the great
people watching.
I also like Le Perchoir bars, both in the
11th and on the rooftop of BHV (which
by the way is open on Sundays), they
make great cocktails and they both
boast great views of the city.
What are your favourite
restaurants in Paris
Pictures: Top:
typically metro;
middle: Alain
Ducasse at the Plaza
Athene Hotel;
Bottom: BHV Paris
I love Loulou, Daroco and Le Coq
because it’s just near my place, so when
I don’t want to venture out far I just go
there, the food is good and on the way
there and back you have the best view
of the Eiffel Tower.
For a more refined dinner I would have
to say Alain Ducasse at the Plaza
Athénée, I am a huge fan of his cuisine
and the restaurant itself is exquisite.

coming to Paris for the first
time – what should visitors see?
Definitely seeing the Eiffel Tower is a must.
I think visiting Paris without seeing the
iconic monument would be an incomplete
trip to the French capital.
Get lost in Montmartre, visit the Sacré-
Coeur and just sit on its steps, taking in the
view of the city.
Spend a day at the Louvre.
Laze an afternoon away at Hotel Costes
(it’s very Paris), sitting in the courtyard and
enjoying a glass of white wine.
Visit Versailles. (Take the train - RER Line
C, which takes around 1 hour though may
take
longer depending on where you're getting
on. It's a 5 minute walk from the station)
Walk around the Marais district and
drinking in the sight of the Place des
Vosges.
Shopping! At Lanvin on Rue Saint-Honoré
and at the famous Chanel boutique on Rue
Cambon. Shopping at the most luxurious
boutiques in the city is a must and
returning home with a new bag or a
beautiful pair of heels from the fashion
capital is just priceless... And, stocking up
on make-up at Sephora on Avenue des
Champs-Elysées and Dior on Avenue
Montaigne.

taxing times
Financial Expert Jennie Poate Explains the
requirements for completing your tax forms
in France...
Tax return time is here again!
The annual tax return needs to be completed by May in France, financial expert Jennie
Poates explains how to complete the paperwork and what’s required...
Many, if not most, British expats who are resident in France will have some income
derived from the UK. If this is the case and you’re one of them, you’ll need to complete
some forms (you can download forms from the French Goverment website).
Pink Form 2047 is used to declare income earned outside of France.
Blue Form 2042 is for all income earned - including the revenue declared on the Pink
Form 2047.
The tax year runs from January to December so if you arrived in France part way through
last year you only include income from the time you have been resident here.
For the first time you file your tax returns, you will have to collect the tax forms from the
tax office or Centre Des Impots. After that, they should be sent out to you automatically.
Even if all of your income is taxed or paid in the UK, or you are below the threshold, you
still have to complete a tax return form if you are resident in France.
In general, as French tax residents you have an obligation to declare your worldwide
income and assets to the French authorities. Importantly, with the ‘exchange of
information’ rules now operating between European countries, the French tax authorities
will receive information about income and gains earned from non-French sources. Whilst
this takes time to work through the system, it is important that any information they
receive corresponds to an entry on your tax return.

Pension lump sums
You need to declare lump sum payments received from non-French pension schemes.
Whilst these would normally be available tax-free up to a certain limit (normally 25%) if
you were still a UK tax resident, such lump sum withdrawals are now taxable in France
for French tax residents. The lump sum will be taxed at a flat rate of 7.5% after having
benefited from an allowance of 10%.
There is a little confusion here as generally only if the whole pension fund is taken is
there a tax rate of 7.5%- otherwise it will be considered as part of your income and taxed
at your marginal rate. In reality most tax offices seem happy to levy the 7.5%!
The only exception would be a lump sum received from a military or civil service pension.
Whilst this must still be declared in a different box on your form, the terms of the double
tax treaty (see box below for a short explanation of this treaty) should ensure that it is
not taxed.
Declaration of all foreign bank accounts and life assurance
policies
It has been a requirement for many years to declare on your income tax return the fact
that you hold either bank accounts or Life Assurance Investments outside France.
You have every right to have as many of these as you like, as long as you give the details
to the authorities. For bank accounts, there is a specific form 3916. You should use a
form for each account, or else you can simply list the details on a separate sheet of
paper. The latter is normally easier and the authorities simply want to know the details of
Contact:
jennie (@) bgwealthmanagement.net or
info (@) bgwealthmanagement.net
Telephone: France 0033634119518
Visit www.bgwealth.eu for information and
factsheets
Double Taxation Treaty:
There is a tax treaty between
France and the UK meaning that
you cannot be taxed twice – you’ll
need to fill in a form SI2009
France Individual which you can
download from the Gov.UK
website. You can only complete it
once you are officially resident
and paying tax in France
The information on this page is intended only as an introduction only and is not designed to offer
solutions or advice. Beacon Global Wealth Management can accept no responsibility whatsoever
for losses incurred by acting on the information on this page
The financial advisers trading under Beacon Wealth Management are members of Nexus Global (IFA
Network). Nexus Global is a division within Blacktower Financial Management (International)
Limited (BFMI).All approved individual members of Nexus Global are Appointed Representatives of
BFMI. BFMI is licenced and regulated by the Gibraltar Financial Services Commission and bound by
their rules under licence number FSC00805B

French
It needn'
By Tim Sage, Pro
Over the last year we've looked at the
general process of buying and selling a
home in France*. The process involves two
main parties, the seller and the buyer but to
make that process work there is a large
group of people working behind the
scenes.
The Agent
Of all the people involved, the one person
who will be common to both parties is the
agent. Not only the link between the
parties but also between them and the rest
of the team working on the process. They
have a special rôle (a good agent will see it
as a privileged rôle) in overseeing and
bringing together all the strands that make
for successful selling and buying.
The agent will start the process with a visit
to the seller to take an instruction to
market a property. Selling a home can be a
fairly sad occasion for the seller (it usually
comes with a lot of good and happy
memories even if the reasons for selling
are very positive) and the agent will treat
the meeting with due regard for those
feelings. Along with gaining hard facts
about the property, the agent will also want
to know any history behind it, special
interest, work that has been done recently
etc. The hard facts are needed to create an
exact "product" to market, such as the land
references (cadastrale), the layout of the
property (number of bedrooms, bathrooms),
any planning permission that has been
granted etc. At this time the agent will
probably take measurements of the rooms
to establish habitable surface area (a
different measure to the total surface area).
By checking the price per square metre in
the local area this will give a guide price. If
the obligatory diagnostic checks have been
made there will be an accurate
measurement already by the diagnostic
technicien. Throughout the process, the
agent continually assesses the changing
market conditions and can give advice on
any action to take and of course the allimportant
viewing requests.
For the buyer, the agent is the first point of
contact and while showing you around the
property or properties that you want to look
at is one of the most important aspects,
their help to you will be of more value if
they know what you are really looking for. It
is worth looking at your agent as a sort of
matchmaker - trying to bring you together
with your dream rather than a tour guide.
Expect your agent to ask for information
about your hopes and ideas. At the end of
the meeting there should be mutual trust,
respect and potential friendship.

Property Report
t be a puzzle…
perty Expert and Agent
The Process
Once the agent has successfully brought
together the seller and buyer and
negotiated a price that is acceptable to
both parties the real work begins. The first
step is to draw up the compromis de vente
(initial contract) either through the notaire
or with an in-house legal team. More
detailed information will be needed from
along with copies of documents to give
proof of ID. Then there's liaison with the
diagnostics provider to ensure that all the
surveys are up to date - and if not have
them re-done.
While this is going ahead the agent will
also be processing any finance that is
needed and contacting companies involved
to obtain paperwork for the compromis.
With or without finance and whether you
are the buyer or seller, if the money is
coming from or going to a country outside
the Eurozone your agent will also put you in
touch with a currency expert to get you the
best possible exchange rate. If moving
permanently to France rather than buying a
holiday home you will need advice on
pensions and tax planning; your agent can
help with recommendations.
At the very end your agent will be there to
agree the utility readings and assist in
setting up the new contracts and bank
accounts.
Marketing, legal, technical, finance,
currency, lifestyle – just a few of the areas
of the process that your agent is there to
assist with.
The day of completion (the Acte de Vente):
your agent has finished the juggling act and
successfully kept all those balls in the air
throughout the process. There's one last
thing to do – the best of all of them: to wish
you all well in your future.
Your celebrations can start now, the agent
will slip quietly out of the notaire's door (and
most likely with a fairly moist eye). For them
it might be moving on to the next one but
each one is special and completion day is
the end of a long relationship.
As always comments and questions can be
passed through the team at The Good Life
France or directly to me: tsage (@) leggett.fr;
tim.sage3 (@) gmail.com
*Access free archived copies of The Good
Life France Magazine for more info.

Accountancy obligations for
Micro-Entrepreneurs…
Unless you secretly enjoy the administrative
side to independent professional
activity – and experience tells me I am very
much alone there – the title of this article
may have struck fear in your heart, so allow
me to clarify and calm those fears!
Many assume – as the Micrto-Entreprise
statute is, by definition, ultra-simplifiedthat
when it comes to social charges and
income tax, they need do no more than
issue invoices to their clients and make
their monthly, or quarterly, online
declarations of turnover via the netentreprises.fr
site. But this is not the case.
There is no need to engage the services of
a chartered accountant, as the requirements
remain simple, but what are they?
Separate bank account for
Professional Activity
Since 1 January 2015, micro-entrepreneurs,
whatever their field of activity, are required
to dedicate a bank account for all financial
transactions related to their professional
activity. It must be separate from their
personal bank account so that business
and personal transactions are recorded
separately. The key word here is separate
as the bank fees for an official business
account can bring tears to the eyes, and
are wholly unnecessary expenditure.
Although banking in France is rarely free,
check with your bank to see if they can
offer a sweetener; for instance as an
existing client of ING Direct, I was given 80
€ to open a standard current account with
a MasterCard, and which is subject to no
bank charges whatsoever as long as it
receives 750€ per month (get details here).
Purchase & Expenditure Book
The micro-entrepreneur benefitting from
the simplified tax system must nonetheless
keep some accounts, despite the permitted
absence of annual statement of accounts
or balance sheets.
Only the chronological record of revenue
and expenditure is required.
A paper copy for manual completion can be
downloaded here.
Accounting Software
If you prefer a non-paper solution, an Excel
spreadsheet is insufficient because the
cells remain modifiable. There are
numerous packages available, but as most
small businesses need to keep their
expenditure to a minimum I am currently
investigating free options.
I use NetWips who offer a basic package
for a single user and activity of up to 10
invoices per month, absolutely free of
charge. Although it is currently only
available in French, correct set-up ensures
the obligatory wording is in place on every
invoice issued making invoicing a doddle,
and since I twinned it with my separate
bank account it even informs me by email
every time an invoice is paid.
By Jo-Ann Howell of French Admin
Solutions, a company which helps Englishspeaking
residents successfully navigate
all aspects of bringing their family, work
and home lives to France. Join the
community to get your questions
answered.

Interview with a chef: Daniel Galmiche
Daniel Galmiche is a French chef with an
absolute passion for delicious food. It’s
something that’s in his DNA having been born
in eastern France in lovely Lure, Franche-Comté
Aside from the magical Jura mountains (a
veritable hotspot during ski season), the great
forests, lakes, rivers and waterfalls, the hidden
valleys and gorges, mountain villages and spa
towns. It's also famous for its gastronomic
products including smoked ham, sausages,
emmental and Bleu de Gex cheese
Daniel's grandparents ran a farm, and the food the family ate was from their own
produce. It instilled a love of fresh, seasonal food in the young boy and that ethos has
never left him.
"As I child I loved to eat at the home of my tante Suzanne, the smell coming out of her
kitchen was always amazing" he says "she used to bake for the family every Sunday.
She taught my mum how to cook, and my mum became a great cook herself".
Daniel learned to love cooking from his grandmother, aunt and mother and at the age of
just 15 started working in a restaurant. For the next 40 years he worked in some of the
most prestigious kitchens around the world, fine tuning his skills, working with the best
of the best including the much loved Michel Roux.
Along the way he collected Michelin Stars and became a TV star on the popular British
Saturday Kitchen TV Show. He’s written two books The French Brasserie Cookbook and
Revolutionary French Cooking. But though he's now an international chef and celebrity,
some things haven’t changed. Daniel still loves to cook with local produce whenever he
can and one of his favourite dishes is simple apple pie – made just like his maman's...
“What used to amaze me about the apples my grandparents grew and stored on
the farm was that, even if the skin was as wrinkled as Grand-Père’s face, the
inside stayed fresh and beautiful - just like him he used to say! Even after
months of storage, the taste was tremendous. So with these apples, my Grand-
Mère taught Maman to bake. Whenever I tell my son, Antoine, we are going to
visit his Grand-Mère in France, the first question he asks is “Can you ask her to
bake an apple tart, please, Papa?”

MAMAN'S APPLE
TART

how to make maman's apple tart
Ingredients
1 large egg
100ml/3 1/3 fl oz/scant ½ cup double cream
(or crème fraiche)
3 heaped tbsp. caster sugar
Butter for greasing
225-250g/8-9 oz readymade shortcrust pastry
(or make your own).
Plain flour, for rolling out the pastry
30g/1 oz/scant 1/3 cup ground almonds
405 apples such as Cox or Braeburn, peeled,
Method
Mix the egg, cream and sugar in a bowl,
beating with an electric mixer or hand-held
electric whisk for about 5 minutes until
fluffy.
Grease a 24cm/9 ½ in loose bottomed tart
tin with butter.
Roll out the pasty on a lightly floured
surface until it is about 305mm/1/8-1/4
inch thick. Then roll the pastry over the
rolling pin and place the pastry over the tart
tin.
With one hand lift the pastry edge and with
the other gently tuck the pastry into the
bottom and sides of the tin so that it fits
tightly. Don’t over-stretch it or it’ll break.
and press down gently to push out any
bubbles.
Trim off any excess pastry by rolling the pin
over the top edge of the tin. Prick the pastry
base all over with a fork, cover with cling
film and chill for 25-30 minutes.
Towards the end of the chilling time,
preheat the oven to 180 deg C/350 def F/
gas 4.
Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and
sprinkle the ground almonds over the tart
base, then arrange the apple pieces in fan
shape over the almonds starting from the
outside edge and finishing in the centre.
Place the pieces as regularly as you can
and pour the egg mixture over the apples,
making sure that the whole surface has
been drizzled with the mixture and there
are no gaps.
Bake in the pre-heated oven for 20-25
minutes until pale golden.
Remove from the oven and set aside until
it has cooled down la little.
Serve the tart while it is still warm, when it
is most delicious. You don’t need cream or
ice cream, its best or is own with a lovely
espresso on the side!
Recipe from Daniel Galmiche’s classic
French recipe book The French Brasserie
Cookbook, available from Amazon.

NOUGAT
the sweet taste of the south
Lucy Pitts visits Montélimar. It’s a name that just rolls off the tongue with a
rhythm of its own and it happens to be home to a sweet little secret. You’ll
find the town about half an hour south of Valence in the Drôme, part of the
Rhônes Alpes region, well on the way to the south.
The home, if not the
birthplace of nougat
Nougat has been around for thousands of
years but it arrived in Montélimar in the
19th century. With typical French flair, the
locals took the original ingredients and
created something uniquely French by
adding eggs, their famous almonds and
local honey. The result is a nougat that
bears no resemblance to the mass
produced, overly sweet product that many
of us have tried over the years. Montélimar
nougat is rich in favour and soft. Although
of course it’s still sweet, it doesn’t hit you
with a three day sugar rush or leave you
desperate for water. In fact, I was told, it is
the best nougat in the world and even Lady
Diana, Princess of Wales partook.
The rise to success
Until the advent of fast trains and
autoroutes, Montélimar was strategically
placed on the main route from north to
south. Endorsed by the French President of
the day, Emile Loubet, from the late 19th
century onwards, nougat sales soared.
Touting to passing (and often queuing)
traffic, meant a captive audience and the
industry boomed.
All great things come to an end, the nougat
industry was hit hard by the arrival of the
fast-flowing A7 motorway (“autoroute du
soleil”) which skirts the town. However, you
can still find the last remaining nougat
factories, like Nougat Arnaud Soubeyran, in
the outskirts of Montélimar.

Evolve to survive
Arnaud Soubeyran are a 3rd generation
nougat producer who had the good luck of
stumbling upon some original nougat
recipes from the 1950s and adapting them.
Today they’re a prestigious and bustling
establishment. They’re proud of their
Mediterranean almonds which have, I’m
told, more flavour than Californian
almonds. The floral honey and local fruit
make for an interesting tour of their
factory. They still make their nougat by
hand and you can watch the production
process before indulging yourself in the
dozens of different varieties in their shop
or spending time in their restaurant.
a journey into history, gastronomy and
unspoilt landscape. It’s a much underrated
department that doesn’t seem to get the
press of its Provencal cousin but it will
reward you in spades for the time that you
spend there.
Mirmande
Mirmande is one of those fairy tale villages.
In between Montélimar and Valence, it’s
both medieval and fortified and winds its
way up the hill to the Roman style church
of Sainte Foy at the top. It’s one of the Plus
Beaux Villages de France as well as one of
the Villages Botaniques de la Drôme, so
you know you can expect something
special.
Over the centuries its streets and its
people have had to adapt to embrace first
the silk industry and then, as that lifestyle
gave way, growing fruit in the many
orchards that surround it. Famed cubist
André Lhote put down roots here and as
with all places of incredible beauty, it’s a bit
of a honey pot for local creatives and
artists. It’s a haven of steep, cobbled
streets, leg burning steps and catch your
breath views out across the Drôme. It may
not take you long to explore but it’s a great
stop off place for coffee or lunch if you’ve
just headed out of Valence or need to burn
off some of nougat from Montémilar.
The Drôme is a region that’s full of local
flavour and colour and sweet Montémilar
and Mirmande are just the starting point of
For more information visit:
www.ladrometourisme.com
www.mirmande.org
For a nugget of nougat visit:
www.nougatsoubeyran.com
Transport: Valence has a TGV station
and it’s possible to get trains from the
UK, Paris or elsewhere in Europe. From
the there you can take a connecting train
to Montelimar.There’s also international
car hire right next to Valence station.
voyages-sncf.com

Gigot d'Ag
aux legum
by Sara Neumeier
INGREDIENTS - serves 6-8 people
1 leg of lamb, bone in (6-7 pounds)
Grated zest and juice of two lemons
1/3 cup olive oil
8 cloves garlic
2 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
24 ounces fingerling potatoes, sliced in half lengthwise
4-5 plum tomatoes, quartered
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
4 medium carrots, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise

neau
es
THIS MEAL-IN-ONE-PAN recipe was
inspired by the produce at the Bergerac
bio-marché. Feel free to be moved by the
vegetables at your own local
greenmarket (beets or fennel bulb also
work well). Gigot d’agneau is now our
secret party weapon, perfect for evenings
when we’d rather be drinking wine with
our guests than cooking. Its
deliciousness is derived from the lamb,
vegetables, and lemon-oregano
marinade roasting together very slowly;
most of the work is done before the
guests arrive.
Place oil, garlic, salt, oregano, peppercorns, lemon zest and juice in a food processor;
process until peppercorns are coarsely ground.
Place lamb and lemon-oregano mixture in a bowl or plastic container; turn lamb to coat
thoroughly with marinade. Cover, and refrigerate 2 hours or overnight. Bring to room
temperature before cooking.
Heat oven to 400 . Pour any excess marinade from lamb into a large roasting pan. Add
potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and carrots; toss to coat. Place lamb on top of vegetables.
Roast lamb until browned, 30-40 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 and continue cooking
until a meat thermometer reaches 125 , another 30-40 minutes. Turn off oven; let meat
rest in oven 30 minutes. Slice lamb and serve with roasting pan vegetables and juices.
Find more of Sara's recipes, along with stories, photos, and travel tips every month at
Beginning French

What a mad few months it's been here in the middle of nowhere France!
On Christmas Day, the other half decided this was the right moment to start
building a bathroom. So while most normal people were sitting in front of the
TV, eating chocolates and generally relaxing and over indulging, we were
ripping out very old cupboards from what has been the utility room and will
be the bathroom!
That is exciting enough (I've been without a bath for eight years now though
I do have a shower!) but something else even more thrilling has happened -
for me at least! I've written a book about my life in France and it's going to be
published on May 4. I'm supposed to keep it quiet but I can't help it, I have to
tell someone! I'll of course tell you more once it's formally published but you
can find it on Amazon now. I don't think I've ever been more nervous about
something than I am about revealing all about my life in France, my
neighbours, and how I came to be here!
I'm less happy to tell you that we had a loss in the animal family. Poor Ginger
Roger, the deaf stray cat I took in three years ago succumbed to an illness.
He seemed to rally after a trip to the vets and a massive dose of antibiotics.
He was, I am very sorry to say, extremely badly behaved at the cabinet of the
vet, attacking all the staff. In fact he was so terrible the vet told me never to
bring him back. He was a very feral cat and had to be sedated just to be
given antibiotics. Alas it didn't help in the long run.
Strangely a few days later another stray turned up - I think the cat grapevine
is strong in my village and they knew I had a vacancy. We call her Fat Cat as
she eats absolutely everything I put in the food bowl and she's enormous.
She has a seriously grumpy face but is very well behaved and not at all like
the other wild cats. I did promise no more pets, but it's hard to say "non" and
besides, I've got plenty of love to share with them!