Issue No. 15
Discover the Drome, Nyons - the last Provencal frontier, Charente-Maritime, Burgundy, Paris gastronomy, Nice, secret Provence, recipes, a whole lot more. It's the next best thing to being in France...
Discover the Drome, Nyons - the last Provencal frontier, Charente-Maritime, Burgundy, Paris gastronomy, Nice, secret Provence, recipes, a whole lot more. It's the next best thing to being in France...
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Bonjour!<br />
Summer is served in this issue - it's time to kick back and enjoy the best of France.<br />
You'll find loads of gorgeous destination pieces including Provence with a focus on the<br />
Drome department - the part that's not well known, as well as the secret bits of Provence<br />
by two locals who share their favourite places. We look at Paris, Burgundy and the<br />
Vendée, the sensational Samoens in the French Alps and the Jazz Festival at Marciac.<br />
There are practical guides for expats and those who dream of moving to France, plus<br />
some fabulous recipes, and a focus on gastronomy in Nice and Paris, There's also "Your<br />
Photos" and a whole lot more.<br />
Don't forget to enter our competitions - we've got some wonderful books to give away as<br />
well as some award winning, delicious rosé wine, just perfect for those summer days and<br />
a taste of France.<br />
If you like this issue please share it with your friends - it's completely free, and always<br />
will be,<br />
Bisous from France<br />
Janine
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
Barbara Pasquet James is<br />
a US lifestyle editor,<br />
speaker and urban<br />
explorer who writes about<br />
food fashion and culture,<br />
from Paris. She helped<br />
launch, write and edit USA<br />
Today’s City Guide To<br />
Paris and her photo blog<br />
is at: FocusOnParis.com.<br />
Justine Halifax is a multi<br />
award-winning writer hand<br />
journalist. She writes for the<br />
Birmingham Mail,<br />
Birmingham Post and<br />
Sunday Mercury both in<br />
print and online. Recent<br />
journalism awards include<br />
winning Midlands Feature<br />
Writer of the Year 2014.<br />
Peter Jones is a writer<br />
and photographer. He<br />
presents a weekly travel<br />
and food show at<br />
Puritans Radio in the<br />
UK.<br />
Sara Neumeier is a New<br />
York food stylist who<br />
shares a summer home in<br />
the Dordogne with her<br />
parents. She and her<br />
recipes are featured in the<br />
memoir Beginning French<br />
by Les Américains.<br />
Rupert Parker is a writer,<br />
photographer,<br />
cameraman & TV<br />
Producer. Read about his<br />
latest adventures on his<br />
website Planet Appetite<br />
& follow him on Twitter<br />
@planetappetite.<br />
Lucy Pitts is a writer and<br />
Deputy Editor of The<br />
Good Life France. She is<br />
a professional copywriter<br />
who runs Strood Copy.<br />
She divides her time<br />
between France and the<br />
UK.<br />
Editor: Janine Marsh contact editor (at) the goodlifefrance.com<br />
Deputy Editor: Lucy Pitts<br />
Advertising: Mark sales (at) thegoodlifefrance.com<br />
Digital support: Umbrella Web Solutions
CONTENTS<br />
P. 26<br />
P. 30<br />
P. 18<br />
FEATURES<br />
8 The Other Provence – Drome<br />
Lucy Pitts discovers a romantic and<br />
unspoiled region of lavender fields and<br />
vineyards<br />
14 Nyons the last Provencal<br />
Frontier<br />
Lucy Pitts explores the dramatic beauty<br />
of a little known town in Provence<br />
18 The Secrets of Provence<br />
Susana Iwase Hanson and Jeanny<br />
Cronk reveal the most beautiful secret<br />
destinations of Provence<br />
26 Nice – a gastronomic paradise<br />
Janine Marsh gets greedy in Nice but<br />
shares her favourite restaurants with<br />
you!<br />
30 Va va voom to the Vendée<br />
Lucy Pitts takes her kids to the Vendée<br />
and finds a pocket of France that’s a<br />
hidden gem<br />
36 Outdoor Adventures in Samoens<br />
Rupert Parker goes up up and away in<br />
the French Alps
P. 42<br />
42 Paris Photo Montage<br />
Paris in gorgeous photos<br />
48 The Rules of Boules<br />
Mary Neumeier reflects on the French<br />
national game<br />
52 Zoom in on Burgundy<br />
Janine Marsh on what makes Burgundy<br />
so utterly special<br />
58 Le <strong>No</strong>rd!<br />
Justine Halifax visits the far north of<br />
France and finds its perfect for the<br />
whole family<br />
64 Jazz in Marciac<br />
Peter Jones goes jazzy in the southern<br />
French town, plus the best of the jazz<br />
fests in France<br />
70 Learning French at 50+<br />
Keith Van-Sickle reveals his top tips for<br />
learning French<br />
72 The best chomping grounds in<br />
Paris<br />
Barbara Pasquet-James checks out the<br />
finest restaurants in the city<br />
78 Two tales of a city<br />
Jemma Hélène explores Antibes and<br />
discovers a tale from World War II<br />
82 Pilgrimage to the Somme<br />
Doug Goodman visits the Somme to<br />
honour a lost relative<br />
Regulars<br />
P 52<br />
62 A page from the history of<br />
France<br />
Susan Cahill looks at the legacy of King<br />
Henri IV in Paris<br />
68 Your Photos<br />
The most popular photos on The Good<br />
Life France Facebook page shared with<br />
you here.<br />
84 - 86 GIVE AWAYS<br />
Fab books to read this summer and<br />
some delish rosé wine to win
P. 90<br />
P. 112<br />
Life in France<br />
88 I spy with my Expat Eye<br />
Keith Van-Sickle goes to the butchers<br />
and finds it’s an experience!<br />
90 The Good Life in the Gers<br />
Janine Marsh talks to an artist with a<br />
penchant for chickens, plus a look at<br />
some dream homes in the area<br />
94 The Good Life in Riberac<br />
Janine Marsh meets a couple who run<br />
gites and a cake business in the lovely<br />
Dordogne, plus a look at dream homes<br />
in the area<br />
116 My Good Life in France<br />
100 Ask The Experts<br />
101 Pension legislation<br />
Plus a savings question answered<br />
104 Banking for expats<br />
106 Tips for moving to France<br />
Gastronomy<br />
108 Bonnes Vacances<br />
Catherine Berry on the pitfalls of<br />
planning a perfect picnic<br />
110 Omelette a la Mere Poulard<br />
The famous <strong>No</strong>rmandy dish revealed by<br />
Mary Pochez<br />
111 Tarte au citron<br />
Sara Neumeier shares an easy peasy<br />
lemon squeasy tart recipe<br />
112 Moules Marinières<br />
Chef Spence’s delish <strong>No</strong>rmandy recipe
If you love the south of France and the romantic call of the lavender fields, a visit to<br />
the Drôme will reveal an unspoiled region that will truly delight says Lucy Pitts...<br />
Drôme is one of the two most southerly<br />
departments of the Rhône Alpes region,<br />
with the Ardèche to the west and to the<br />
south and east, the Vaucluse and the<br />
Hautes Alpes departments.<br />
Drôme is a department of contrasts and if<br />
you’ve spent time travelling the steep and<br />
craggy roads of the Ardèche gorges, then<br />
the flat plains of Provencal Drôme in the<br />
south makes for a dramatic change. High,<br />
winding and mountainous roads and heady<br />
views suddenly transform into long, flat,<br />
straight roads and you cannot escape the<br />
smell of the Mediterranean and the feel of<br />
Provence.<br />
from Orange and headed east.<br />
There’s an instant sense of calm as you<br />
leave the traffic and bustle of the Rhône<br />
behind you. Mont Ventoux and the Alpes<br />
are faintly visible in the distance and in<br />
summer the sight of mile after mile of<br />
perfectly neat rows of lavender is<br />
completely glorious.<br />
Avoiding the motorway which runs north to<br />
south, I peeled off the main road about an<br />
hour south of Valence (the capital of the<br />
department) and a little over half an hour
A deserted village<br />
From the flat fields rise sporadic pinnacles;<br />
ancient villages clinging on like giant mole<br />
hills dot the landscape. Valaurie is a quiet<br />
medieval village keeping guard across the<br />
vineyards and lavender fields along with its<br />
neighbour Roussas. Both cling to a hill side<br />
under the watch of their respective<br />
chateaux. Both are unbelievably quiet and<br />
hopelessly pretty with a distinct medieval<br />
legacy.<br />
In Roussas I decided to climb to the top to<br />
explore the chateau which is not far from<br />
an enormous church (enormous for the<br />
size of the village). Roussas boasts a<br />
population of about 350 all of whom were<br />
notably absent on the day of my visit. I<br />
wound my way around narrow cobbled<br />
streets, up steps, around fortifications and<br />
walls, and up more steps, catching<br />
glimpses of the vineyards and lavender<br />
fields below. There’s a flower tour you can<br />
do around the village to discover different<br />
roses and Mediterranean flowers, the<br />
village specialises in honey plus a special<br />
goats cheese called Foujou. I picked a<br />
handful of small ripe figs, that were<br />
bursting out of their skins with flavour and<br />
ate them on a wall looking back out over<br />
Drôme below. I didn’t see a single person.<br />
I did reach the 12th century chateau which<br />
sadly was all locked up, so I carried on my<br />
meander around the narrow streets of the<br />
village, discovering pretty little houses and<br />
courtyards, stocking up on figs and<br />
enjoying the warm September sunshine. By<br />
the time I got back to my car, I’d been in<br />
Roussas for some time and still not seen a<br />
soul. This is a different side to the Provence<br />
most of us know, as yet unspoilt by an<br />
endless stream of tourists and I was almost<br />
relieved to see a car in the distance.
Lavender, truffles and wine<br />
The Domaine de Grangeneuve is a short<br />
drive through the country from Roussas.<br />
The family who own it have been here for<br />
the last 50 years having returned from<br />
Algeria. Back then the “domaine” consisted<br />
of a derelict farm building, an over grown<br />
plot of woodland and the remains of a<br />
Roman villa.<br />
Today they grow Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault<br />
and Mourvedre for their reds and Viognier,<br />
Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache for<br />
their whites and are part of the AOC<br />
Grignan Les Adhemar. Their wines are soft,<br />
elegant and balanced and this is a<br />
beautiful spot to get to grips with a<br />
landscape that in addition to lavender and<br />
wine, is famous for truffles, olives and<br />
wonderful local produce.<br />
Their philosophy at Grangenwuve is to be<br />
the best possible and as you enter the<br />
main farm courtyard, there’s a beautiful<br />
vaulted cellar filled with oak barrels and<br />
vintage wines of the estate. You can<br />
discover the region in a variety of ways<br />
from here: there are two hiking trails and<br />
an electric bike route. They offer wine<br />
tasting, wine workshops or a day in the<br />
vineyards and winery. You can also enjoy<br />
cookery and gourmand workshops or<br />
discover local truffles – all washed down<br />
with a fine wine of course! They also do a<br />
fabulous picnic hamper bursting with local<br />
products which they’ll bring to you at one<br />
of their picnic tables and the focus here is<br />
very much on the gourmand. After all, as<br />
owner Henri Bour told me, “wine is a noble<br />
concept”.
A night at the mill<br />
Drop back down and out of the clutches of<br />
the Mistral, to the flat fields surrounding<br />
Valaurie and head to Le Moulin de<br />
Valaurie. This rather beautifully restored<br />
mill sits about a mile or so from the village<br />
and has views of it across the sunflower<br />
fields. Arrive at dusk to watch the sun<br />
slowly dropping behind Valaurie.<br />
Le Moulin de Valaurie is a 3-star restaurant<br />
and hotel and is utterly charming. It’s<br />
managed to hold on to its rural past but<br />
feels elegant and chic too. It’s the perfect<br />
place to relax, unwind and refuel before you<br />
head deeper into the delights of Drôme.<br />
INFORMATION<br />
For details of Domaine de Grangeneuve<br />
and Le Moulin de Valaurie visit:<br />
domainesbour.com<br />
lemoulindevalaurie.com<br />
For more information about Drôme visit:<br />
www.ladrometourisme.com<br />
Transport to Drôme: Valence has a TGV<br />
station and it’s possible to get trains from<br />
the UK or Paris: tgv.uk.voyages-sncf.com<br />
Although valence has an airport, most<br />
flights are to Lyon or Grenoble.
The Last Provencal Frontier<br />
Nyons<br />
Lucy Pitts explores the dramatic beauty<br />
of this little known part of Provence<br />
Who doesn’t love a good French market?<br />
It’s such a thoroughly sensual and<br />
deliciously medieval experience, with<br />
people stacking their produce high and<br />
squeezing their stalls into any available<br />
space, even if they’re clinging to the edge<br />
of a roundabout. The market in Nyons is no<br />
exception and it’s just one of the reasons<br />
to visit this remote little town in Drôme, in<br />
the south of the Rhône Alpes region.<br />
Head east, off the beaten track<br />
Nyons is some way off the beaten track to<br />
the east of Valence in the north and<br />
Avignon to the south. It feels like the last<br />
town before the frontier and it sort of is, as<br />
its position nestled in the Pre Alpes<br />
foothills means there are no significant<br />
towns beyond it for some time.<br />
This region is famed for its olives, lavender,<br />
fruit trees and sunflowers and as you drive<br />
east from the Rhône, long, wide, straight,<br />
flat roads take you through the olive groves.<br />
There are giant terracotta olives just in case<br />
you were in any doubt and all the time, you<br />
can see the rugged rise of the mountains in<br />
the hazy distance. Eventually, as the<br />
mountains draw you gradually nearer, you<br />
bear right and as the road starts to gently<br />
undulate and bend, you know that you’re<br />
nearly in Nyons.
A holiday feel<br />
Nyons dates back to before the 5th<br />
century and you’re welcomed by a large<br />
open square surrounded by covered<br />
arcades, plane and palm trees and<br />
pavement cafés and bars. It feels<br />
Mediterranean and in the evening the trees<br />
are lit up, and there’s a holiday feel with<br />
helmetless moped riders buzzing about<br />
and old French cars that smell like they’re<br />
belching out 2 stroke (if anyone else<br />
remembers that smell). Because of its<br />
position tucked right into the foot of the<br />
hills, you’re sheltered from the Mistral and<br />
in September it’s still warm enough to eat<br />
lunch and dinner outside.<br />
A climb to the top<br />
The Thursday market starts before the sun<br />
has crept fully into the streets. The market<br />
seeps out from the square into the veins of<br />
the town, including out through the Saint<br />
Jacques gate (the only gate in the<br />
defensive wall), into the medieval Place des<br />
Arcades and on through a series of narrow<br />
streets. <strong>No</strong>rth of the main square is the<br />
Place Josesph Buffaven and to the side of<br />
that you’ll notice a set of intriguing steps<br />
and a first floor corridor looking over the<br />
square. If you’re waiting for the market to<br />
get into full swing, now is the time to<br />
explore.
This part is the Rues des Grand Forts and<br />
the old quarter that takes you up above the<br />
town. Tiny cobbled roads, just wide enough<br />
for a horse or a walker, take you slowly<br />
higher and higher and you feel like you’ve<br />
entered a secret world of picturesque but<br />
miniature houses and streets. You catch<br />
views across the hills in one direction as<br />
the sun climbs and glimpses of the<br />
scurrying shoppers at the market in the<br />
other. You’ll also stumble across the Tour<br />
Randonne. This 13th century chapel with its<br />
ornamental bell tower is quite a surprise.<br />
Back in the town and the market has<br />
erupted into life. <strong>No</strong>ugat, apricots, roasting<br />
chickens, olives and lavender draw you in.<br />
The school in Nyons is right next to the<br />
square, making the smells and sounds of<br />
market day, part of their weekly education.<br />
It’s no wonder this fabulous market<br />
tradition survives.<br />
Lavender and Romans<br />
Nyons has a vibrant economy and apart<br />
from olives and fruit, lavender is also a key<br />
player. There’s a beautiful Roman bridge on<br />
the edge of the town and just before that,<br />
there’s a lavender distillery, the Distillerie<br />
Bleu Provence. It’s a great opportunity to<br />
learn more about the harvesting, distilling<br />
process and the quality of the essential oils.<br />
If you’re lucky enough to get a tour with the<br />
owner, Philippe Soguel, you’ll get a rare<br />
insight into the passion that drives lavender<br />
production in this area and the search for<br />
more efficient and more ecologically sound<br />
methods of harvesting and processing. You<br />
can also try some of their ice cream<br />
including geranium, lavender and thyme<br />
flavours, all of which are delicious..
Explore and enjoy<br />
There are all sorts of reasons to linger<br />
here. Nyons is famed for its black olives<br />
and is an olive “appellation contrôlé”<br />
area. You can discover the olive groves<br />
on foot as part of the “Sentiers de<br />
l’Olivier” and there’s also a “Jardin des<br />
Arômes” to explore with 300 different<br />
species of fragrant plants. Or just hire a<br />
bike and take to the vineyards.<br />
Nyons is a wonderful mixture of sensual<br />
colours and flavours, history and nature.<br />
It feels very special tucked away at the<br />
foot of the hills and you won’t want to<br />
leave Although it’s bustling, it feels<br />
strangely calm and welcoming and<br />
you're sure to want to stay as long as<br />
you can.<br />
INFORMATION<br />
Nyon Tourism: www.paysdenyons<br />
www.ladrometourisme.com<br />
For a tour of the lavender distillery visit:<br />
www.distillerie-bleu-provence.com<br />
For places to stay:<br />
Hotel Colombet is ideally placed in<br />
Nyons centre, not far from the tourist<br />
office with tables and dinning<br />
overlooking the square. www.<br />
hotelcolombet.com<br />
Transport to Drôme:<br />
Valence has a TGV station and it’s<br />
possible to get trains from the UK or<br />
Paris: uk.voyages-sncf.com<br />
Although valence has an airport, most<br />
flights are to Lyon or Grenoble.
The Secrets of<br />
Provence<br />
Susana Iwase Hanson and Jeanny Cronk,<br />
locals of Provence share their favourite,<br />
secret places
The Var is a departement that includes Provence. It stretches from the rugged<br />
mountains of the Verdon to the glamorous beaches of St Tropez and is within<br />
touching distance of Aix-en-Provence, Marseilles and Cannes encompassing<br />
different landscapes and touristic experiences. The non-coastal areas (Centre et<br />
Haut Var) were plain, agricultural terrain until only a few decades ago and this is<br />
reflected in the authentic architecture of the little villages built into the hillsides.<br />
Locals Susana Iwase Hanson and Jeany Cronkselect their favourite five<br />
destinations to visit in this beautiful area...
1<br />
Bauduen at the Lac du Verdon<br />
The great nature reserve around the Lac St<br />
Croix is a visitors' paradise. The landscape<br />
resembles that of the great nature parks of<br />
<strong>No</strong>rth America, complete with a huge<br />
Canyon filled with lagoon green water<br />
called “Les Gorges du Verdon” between St<br />
Moustiers Marie and Castellan. There are<br />
endless walking, boating and sporting<br />
possibilities in the area and it’s well worth a<br />
trip, especially during the hotter period<br />
when it feels a little more fresh and less<br />
crowded rather than down by the coast.<br />
Make for picturesque Bauduen, a village<br />
by the lakeshore with its back built into the<br />
rock. There is a little pebble beach perfect<br />
for kids and you can hire pedaloes and<br />
paddleboards. Take a dip in the crystal<br />
clear waters of the Lac, which is actually a<br />
drinking water reserve. You can also hire a<br />
sailboat if you're feeling more energetic.<br />
A few crèperies and cafés line the lakeshore,<br />
but we recommend you head up to<br />
the Café Du Midi which has a small but<br />
lovely menu and perfect views of the lake.<br />
The staff are friendly and kids can roam<br />
around the boules square next to the<br />
restaurant. The village is tiny with charming<br />
stone houses, but has many cute and photo<br />
worthy corners. If you’re making a day of it,<br />
pop to the neighbouring artists village of<br />
Moustiers-St-Marie where where you can<br />
enjoy a culinary feast at Alain Ducasse’s<br />
Bastide de Moustiers.<br />
Boat Hire: location-bateau-verdon.fr<br />
Restaurants: Café du Midi (booking<br />
essential in high season):<br />
+33 4 94 70 08 94 (mid range price)<br />
Bastide de Moustiers (Moustiers St Marie,<br />
booking essential): bastide-moustiers.com<br />
(pricey, but nice)
2 COTIGNAC<br />
At first glance Cotignac wows visitors with<br />
its large limescale cliffs reminiscent of<br />
ancient troglodyte living. Houses are<br />
literally carved into the cliffs and anyone<br />
can climb the steps that lead up to the old<br />
cave dwellings for a 2 euros entry fee<br />
during visiting season.<br />
The village has 2,300 inhabitants and is<br />
typically Provençale. The population<br />
quadruples to over 10,000 in the summer<br />
months when glroious sunshine, festivals,<br />
markets and concerts lure visitors.<br />
Our favourite restaurant, the Café du Cours,<br />
on the Cours Gambetta, serves steak<br />
tartare, tuna tataki, pastas, burgers, and<br />
pizzas fresh out of the oven. Service is<br />
always excellent and it's a great place to<br />
people-watch especially on market day<br />
(Tuesdays). Just a few doors down is the<br />
Centre d'Art La Falaise where seasonal<br />
exhibitions of regional artists can be seen.<br />
Mirabeau Wine has a shop underneath<br />
where you can sample award winning rosé<br />
and buy beautifully selected locally<br />
produced home wares.<br />
More information about Cotignac www.<br />
provence-living.net<br />
Tourist office: la-provence-verte.net/<br />
ot_cotignac/<br />
Café du Cours, 23 Cours Gambetta<br />
Mirabeau Wine Showroom: www.<br />
mirabeauwine.com
3 Estagnol Beach, Bormes les Mimosas<br />
Bormes les Mimosas is situated on the<br />
stretch of coastline connecting Toulon and<br />
St Tropez and is home to swanky villas and<br />
Châteaux of the rich and famous plus<br />
some of the best beaches in France. Our<br />
favourite is Estagnol. The coastal road,<br />
called Route de Léoube, which runs<br />
between La Londe-les-Maures and<br />
Bormes-les-Mimosas is spectacular –<br />
you’ll spot huge and ancient cork tree<br />
forets and vineyards that literally touch the<br />
ocean.<br />
There are two famous beaches on this<br />
stretch of road, both with private parking<br />
(paid): Le Pellegrin and L’Estagnol. We<br />
prefer Estagnol for it’s a beautiful bay with<br />
clear waters, which are not too deep for<br />
small children, lined by beautiful old pine<br />
trees. It’s small and gets busy, so avoid<br />
peak times or plan to arrive early or late.<br />
“L’Estagnol” is the perfect beachside<br />
Restaurant, not fancy like in St Tropez, but<br />
good food including lots of choice for little<br />
ones. It’s fun, colourful and efficient and<br />
just behind the dunes of the beach.<br />
Off-season it’s a great idea to walk the<br />
coastal footpath that runs behind the<br />
beaches through the dunes where you<br />
breathe in the scent of sea salt and the<br />
flora and fauna of this protected area. If<br />
you’re not too sandy and tired, pop into<br />
Château Léoube for a Rosé Tasting in an<br />
extraordinarily beautiful setting.<br />
Restaurant L’Estagnol (booking advised):<br />
restaurant-lestagnol.fr<br />
Château Léoube: www.chateauleoube.com
4<br />
Tourtour<br />
Tourtour is like a village in the sky, set on<br />
top of a windy hill (elevation 900 meters)<br />
with sweeping views all the way out to<br />
Frejus and the Mediterranean with the<br />
Mount St Victoire between.<br />
The population is just under 500 but the<br />
locals are a tight knit group who put on one<br />
of the most amazing festivals known as the<br />
Fête de l’Oeuf (egg Festival) around Easter<br />
every year.<br />
Tourtour is listed as one of the most<br />
beautiful villages in France and is well<br />
worth a visit. Take a walk through tiny<br />
streets to admire the well-restored village<br />
houses with their manicured gardens. The<br />
restaurants serve simple yet freshly made<br />
food which of course goes rather well with a<br />
nice glass of chilled rosé. It’s about a 20<br />
minutes’ drive from Cotignac, via either<br />
Aups or Villecroze which, by the way, are<br />
also both villages worth a detour should<br />
time allow.<br />
All the cafés and bars here serve casual<br />
food (great frites at La Farigoulette) but<br />
there is also the more distinguished “La<br />
Table” restaurant with one Michelin star<br />
where you will find dishes like sautéed Ray<br />
or Guinea fowl. Prices here start at 28 euros<br />
per person).<br />
More information: Tourtour Tourist Office
5<br />
St-Maximin-la-St-Baume<br />
St Maximin is a mid size town surrounded<br />
by two impressive mountain ranges and<br />
boasts the largest Basilica in Provence.<br />
The cathedral is surrounded by a beautiful<br />
cloister complex. The small, charming<br />
roadsare lined with cafés and shops.<br />
A fantastic food and local produce market<br />
takes place every Wednesday, which<br />
attracts stallholders from far and wide. The<br />
Café de la Renaissance is situated in a<br />
good spot with a raised terrace at the Place<br />
Malherbe. The owner trained at a nearby<br />
Michelin star restaurant and by all accounts<br />
has transferred some of his skills to this<br />
more relaxed setting.<br />
Café de la Renaissance, 6, Place Malherbe<br />
Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume<br />
About the authors: Susana Iwase Hanson runs the popular Provence Living website and<br />
Facebook Page. Jeany Cronk is co-founder of award-winning Mirabeau Wines; she writes<br />
widely on the Southern French lifestyle and has been featured regularly in the international<br />
press. Both live in Cotignac.
Nice is a city that honours it's gastronomic<br />
heritage - it's one of only two cities in<br />
France to do so. Lyon often called the<br />
gastronomic capital of France, is the other<br />
one.<br />
Lyon had better look out though because<br />
Nice is catching up and if you ask a Nicois<br />
they will of course assure you they haven't<br />
just equalled but overtaken their<br />
gastronomic rival.<br />
Fruit, vegetables, cheese, fish and a strong<br />
Italian influence - after all the border is just<br />
20 minutes by car - make the sunny<br />
cuisine of Nice full of flavour.<br />
"People here are in love with good food<br />
- it's in their DNA"<br />
says Italian born Caterina who's now a<br />
Nice local, what they call a ‘Nicoise de<br />
coeur’. "In Nice there is respect for the<br />
landscape, the geography, the season...we<br />
learn how to cook with fresh produce when<br />
it's available".<br />
There are two big markets in Nice, the<br />
famous Cours Saleya, a stone’s throw from<br />
the Mediterranean Sea and the”local’s<br />
market” at Liberation.<br />
The market at Cours Saleya<br />
Colourful stands of local Socca and<br />
Pissaladière will tempt you to stop for a<br />
nibble. Homemade jams, exotic spices,<br />
local fish, organic honeys, juicy fruits, olive<br />
oil, sea salt and lush vegetables will have<br />
you inhaling the scents and flavours of<br />
Nice. And all in the most perfect setting,<br />
lined with gorgeous pastel coloured<br />
buildings, thriving cafés and, glimpsed<br />
through the arched entries to this square of<br />
paradise, the blue waters of the sea.<br />
Open Tuesday to Saturday 07.30 – 18.00;<br />
Mondays are about antiques and Sundays<br />
are reserved for the flower market.<br />
Marche Liberation<br />
The indoor market is a hub of activity as<br />
locals throng to buy the freshest fish,<br />
fabulous produce and just baked bread. A<br />
couple of kilometres inland, it tends to be a<br />
little cheaper here and much more homely<br />
with a friendly little café where people stop<br />
for a seriously wake-me-up coffee or a<br />
Pastis before pushing on to complete their<br />
shopping or take it home.<br />
Opening hours Tuesday – Sunday 06.00-<br />
12.30
Cuisine Nissarde<br />
Taking advantage of the wonderful array of<br />
produce, a number of restaurants which<br />
specialise in the Nicois gastronomy have<br />
been recognised for their special<br />
contribution. It’s a way of creating flavours<br />
and tastes that has taken centuries to<br />
define and refine and no visit to the city is<br />
complete without a taste. You’ll find the<br />
‘cuisine Nissarde' label at around 16<br />
restaurants and you can get details from<br />
the tourist office.<br />
Eat yourself to a standstill<br />
<strong>No</strong>w I know what you expect of me so, of<br />
course I’ve tried several restaurants on<br />
your behalf in Nice and here are some of<br />
my favourites:<br />
A Buteghinna - lush lunch venue<br />
Sophie, Marcelle and Evelyn have a deep<br />
love of tradition and food. This led the<br />
three friends to open a tiny restaurant in<br />
old Nice back in 1992. They had no kitchen,<br />
just a couple of electric hobs. They made<br />
traditional foods and the locals loved it.<br />
Over the years they've upgraded to a tiny<br />
restaurant that seats 10 maximum indoors<br />
and outdoor seating for about 20. They<br />
also have a take-away counter and locals<br />
stop by to pick up a snack like "maman<br />
used to make".<br />
Marcelle makes the desserts and believe<br />
me, you want to leave room for something<br />
sweet. Sophie makes the savoury food and<br />
Evelyne serves and keeps everyone happy<br />
with her beaming smile.
Blink as you pass their place, and you'll<br />
miss it but you can’t avoid the delicious<br />
smells that waft out the door. They don't<br />
want their business to grow bigger, it isn’t<br />
about making lots of money for them, it’s<br />
about good food.<br />
"If we grow too big, we may lose our<br />
passion" says Marcelle. "This is home<br />
cooking - it's personal". It's also absolutely<br />
delicious. It's a Nice secret, one that the<br />
locals know but most tourists don't notice<br />
tucked away on a beautiful alley opinion<br />
Old Nice. This is food like your grandma<br />
cooked if you were born in the south of<br />
France, Socca chips, tiny delicate pastries<br />
filled with seasonal veg, tourte de blette, a<br />
sweet tart made with, of all things – the<br />
vegetable chard (it works by the way,<br />
brilliantly).<br />
They cook everything fresh in the tiny<br />
kitchen and only open for lunch. If you<br />
want a true taste of Nice, a memory to<br />
cherish and an absolutely amazing eating<br />
experience accompanied with good<br />
humour and a big smile then head to A<br />
Buteghinna -which means in Nicois "the<br />
little place" and don't forget to book your<br />
table, it's very popular!<br />
A Buteghinna 11 rue du marché<br />
La Storia - the perfect location<br />
Its location in the heart of old Nice makes<br />
La Storia a popular venue pretty much all<br />
year round. At <strong>No</strong>. 1 Cours Saleya it doesn’t<br />
get much better than this. In its touristic<br />
setting, service may not be speedy as it can<br />
get very busy – everyone wants to sit in this<br />
lovely corner of the market square. If you’re<br />
in a rush, let the waiter know. Better still,<br />
take your time, enjoy the sun, the scenery<br />
and people watching while you indulge in<br />
some tasty dishes which are not expensive.<br />
Moules, pizza, pasta are pretty good and<br />
with a 3 course menu at around 20 Euros –<br />
it’s a bit of a steal.<br />
Restaurantlastoria
Sentimi - will make you want to move<br />
to Nice<br />
Sentimi serves Italian influenced food and<br />
it doesn’t get much better than this. It’s not<br />
a touristy type place, this is where the<br />
locals go because they know the food is<br />
top notch and not at all expensive.<br />
The courtyard setting with a huge olive tree<br />
growing inside the restaurant is absolutely<br />
lovely. The terrace seating on Place<br />
Garibaldi couldn’t be nicer. The menu is<br />
fabulous, I wanted to try absolutely<br />
everything on it and found it really hard to<br />
behave myself! I asked the waiter what the<br />
speciality is and he recommended ottima a<br />
type of pizza. One word. Memorable. Okay<br />
more words – completely scrumptious. I’ve<br />
been to Italy many times, my family are<br />
from Milan and I have never had a better<br />
pizza anywhere. Go here on an empty<br />
stomach and make the most of it. I’d<br />
recommend you make a booking, they do<br />
speak English so if you don’t speak French,<br />
not a problem. I could actually move to<br />
Nice just so that I could go to this<br />
restaurant more often.<br />
Tip: Don’t leave without having the ice<br />
cream – it’s icy heaven.<br />
2-4 Place Garibaldi Facebook page:<br />
Sentimirestaurant<br />
Restaurant Influence - fabulous food<br />
A relative newcomer to the Nice food scene<br />
the restaurant has made an impact very<br />
quickly thanks to the young chef’s truly<br />
superb menu. A graduate of the Paul<br />
Bocuse institute (the most revered chef in<br />
France), everything is home made and has<br />
a secret ingredient – passion. It must have<br />
been very hard work to get this new eaterie<br />
on the map but the locals love it and no<br />
wonder, the chef’s deft touch and<br />
innovative dishes are knock out. The menu<br />
is not expensive but the food is of the<br />
highest quality, tasty and delicious - you’ll<br />
want to go back to time and time again<br />
Influence-nice.fr 31 rue Bonaparte<br />
Website Nice Tourism for more foodie<br />
recommendations.
Va va voom to the Vendée<br />
to visit an authentic and<br />
very special part of France<br />
Lucy Pitts and her three children discover the area<br />
has oodles of of charm and loads to to do for families<br />
There’s a little pocket of France which remains one of its hidden gems<br />
says Lucy Pitts who has a home in the area. It hovers across four<br />
departments, right on the cusp of where north meets south. The area<br />
is well served by airports and motorways yet is still distinctly rural in<br />
feel and as one local described it to me recently (as he apologised for<br />
not speaking English), it’s still very French.
It’s a place where cuisses de grenuoilles<br />
(frogs legs), escargot (snails) and<br />
andouillette (a sausage not for the faint<br />
hearted made of, amongst other things,<br />
intestines and sometimes tripe) are still<br />
very much in evidence on local lunch<br />
menus. Shops shut for lunch, restaurants<br />
have a habit of shutting for August, some<br />
schools still close on a Wednesday and a<br />
few of the locals speak in a heavy patois<br />
(well my neighbour there does at least and<br />
I wonder if I’ll ever understand him). It’s also<br />
a place where one minute there are rolling<br />
green hills and thick, lush woodland and<br />
then in the blink of an eye, you’re driving<br />
across burnt orange planes dodging the<br />
melon stalls. Sunflowers morph into<br />
vineyards, and huge lazy rivers transform<br />
into a vast network of orderly canals<br />
making up one of the largest marshlands in<br />
France.
The area sits neatly between La Rochelle,<br />
Nantes and Poitiers across the<br />
departments of the Vendée, the Deux<br />
Sevres, the Charente and the Vienne. It’s<br />
diverse, quirky, occasionally infuriating and<br />
surprisingly lacking in tourists (well ok,<br />
there’s a few but not compared to other<br />
areas).<br />
Almost in the centre of this quiet little<br />
triangle is the renaissance market town of<br />
Fontenay le Comte which stretches down<br />
in a gloriously straight line from a lofty,<br />
green square at the top of the town, across<br />
the River Vendée and then up again. It’s a<br />
little sleepy unless you arrive on market<br />
day but if you head to the other end of<br />
town and climb up to the Donjon des<br />
Cimes there are amazing views across the<br />
roof tops as well as huge enclosed nets up<br />
in the trees for the kids to play on. It’s in<br />
Fontenay that you first start to get a taste<br />
of the south and it’s not a bad place to be<br />
based to explore.<br />
To the west of Fontenay by about an hour<br />
you have the Atlantic coast with its seaside<br />
towns, the Bay of Aiguillon (home to mud<br />
flats, salt marshes and hundreds of<br />
thousands of migratory birds) and Les<br />
Sables d’Olonne. To the north lie the rolling<br />
hills of the ‘bocage’ and the forest of<br />
Mervent. 4,000 hectares of oak, chestnut<br />
and beech surround a vast lake here, the<br />
result of damming the 2 rivers that flow<br />
through the forest (the Vendée and the<br />
Mère). Ravines, panoramic views, fortified<br />
villages, wildlife and 200km of walks are<br />
the order of the day here and make<br />
Mervent a spellbinding place.
Top left: Fort Boyard, just off La<br />
Rochelle; far left: the Forst of Mervent,<br />
left Fonteay; centre: roof tops of<br />
Fontenay; above: Mervent<br />
The landscape south of Fontenay is<br />
dramatic in contrast; flat and hot with a<br />
Mediterranean feel. Yet as you head south<br />
east, it all changes again, and you find<br />
yourself in the pretty and ingenious world<br />
of the part of the Marais Poitevin known as<br />
the Green Venice. With canal side towns,<br />
ancient abbeys and intricate, arboreal<br />
waterways, it was all created by man out of<br />
what was once little more than a silty bay.<br />
It’s not just the whirlwind of changes in<br />
landscape that makes this little corner so<br />
compelling. Dotted amongst the cornfields,<br />
valleys and rivers there are all sorts of<br />
interesting things going on. The world<br />
famous Puy du Fou theme park for a start,<br />
is to the north. Here you’ll find historical<br />
enactments on a dramatic scale: Viking<br />
boats rise out of the waters, fires stream<br />
out of a moving chateau and huge birds of<br />
prey swoop so close their feet almost<br />
scratch your cheek. You know it’s not an<br />
ordinary theme park when you’re warned<br />
that dangerous animals are in amongst the<br />
audience and not to eat while you’re<br />
watching the show. And that’s before you<br />
get to the gladiators!<br />
Further south there’s the Indian Forest of<br />
Adventures (tree top adventures taken to<br />
the next level) and in a similar vein half an<br />
hour north of Fontenay there’s the Parc<br />
D’Adventure; high octane Go Ape at half<br />
the price. There’s also a zoo at Mervent<br />
where you can walk with some of the<br />
animals, cycle riding in abundance, gentle<br />
water sports or a spot of fishing.
Left: Futuroscope;<br />
right: giant<br />
elephant at the<br />
Island of the<br />
Machienes,<br />
Nantes; below:<br />
happy holiday<br />
makers<br />
In Nantes, you have the Les Machines de<br />
l’île, a fascinating experiment in the old<br />
dockyards which will have you riding on a<br />
12 metre high mechanical elephant or a 4<br />
metre ant and sailing round on a merry go<br />
round in a cranking, metal crustacean. The<br />
vision of two artists, the concept is<br />
described “as visualising a travel-throughtime<br />
world at the crossroads of the<br />
'imaginary worlds' of Jules Verne and the<br />
mechanical universe of Leonardo da Vinci”.<br />
And that undoubtedly captures the spirit of<br />
your day here.<br />
Yet at the other end of the spectrum and<br />
just a couple of hour’s drive to the east is<br />
Futuroscope, with all that is modern and<br />
high tech. There’s a new water park too,<br />
ancient abbeys perched on marooned little<br />
islands and chateaux to explore in<br />
abundance.<br />
But despite the dozen or more major<br />
attractions in this area, it doesn’t feel busy.<br />
You’ll get a table without booking at lunch<br />
and your 2 hours will never be rushed.<br />
You’ll find history hand in hand with<br />
adventure, nature to suit every palate and<br />
activities for every generation and speed.<br />
I’ve visited this area in all seasons over the<br />
years and I don’t travel light. As often as<br />
not, I’m to be found to be travelling with<br />
three small children, two huge dogs, a<br />
couple of elderly parents and their small<br />
dog with mental health issues It’s a region<br />
therefore that has to satisfy everyone’s<br />
many demands (including my not<br />
infrequent need for solitude). And in all the<br />
many times that I’ve visited, I don’t<br />
remember it ever to have been found<br />
lacking. Each trip, it offers up something<br />
new and compelling, a different pace, a<br />
different atmosphere or challenge.<br />
With its Mediterranean micro climate and<br />
laid back pace, this year I explored Green<br />
Venice and the Marais Poitevin, La Rochelle<br />
and then Futuroscope for the first time, and<br />
once again, this little corner of France didn’t<br />
disappoint.
Key places of interest:<br />
Award wiinning and fabulous theme<br />
park:<br />
Puy du Fou.com<br />
One of the most popular theme parks<br />
in France:<br />
Futuroscope.com<br />
Indian Forest of Adventures:<br />
indian-forest-atlantique.com<br />
Huge fun at the Parc d’Adventure:<br />
parc-aventure-79.fr<br />
Magnificent, mesmerising Mechanical<br />
machines at Nantes:<br />
lesmachines-nantes.fr<br />
Tourist Office:<br />
www.vendee-tourism.co.uk/
Outdoor adventures in<br />
SAMOENS<br />
Rupert Parker discovers the<br />
sporting delights of this picturesque<br />
alpine area...
Samoëns is a pretty “ville fleurie” in the<br />
Haute-Savoie region in south-eastern<br />
France. It sits in the Vallée du Giffre, in the<br />
French Alps, and is only an hour by car<br />
from Geneva. Long a winter skiing<br />
destination, it’s also great in the summer<br />
and I’m here to try out some of its many<br />
activities. On offer is everything from river<br />
rafting to paragliding and I’ve got 24 hours<br />
in this lovely part of France to get a taste.<br />
It’s a glorious sunny day and we start off<br />
early with a mountain bike tour along the<br />
Giffre River. This is where we’ll be rafting<br />
later and I can’t help but notice that it’s<br />
doing a very good impression of a raging<br />
torrent, the result of the previous day’s rain.<br />
We follow the river until it enters a narrow<br />
steep-sided gorge, and then climb above it.<br />
After another hour of easy climbing we turn<br />
round and make our way back down to<br />
lunch by the Lac aux Dames. There’s easy<br />
kayaking here but I’m still worrying about<br />
the white water.<br />
After ploughing through a huge foie-gras<br />
salad, probably not the wisest choice for<br />
bouncing on the water, I get equipped.<br />
Wetsuit, life jacket and helmet are all<br />
essential and we are soon on our way to the<br />
launch site with our inflatable dinghy. We<br />
each get a paddle and our guide shows us<br />
how to use them – there are four<br />
commands – Paddle Forward, Paddle Back,<br />
Stop and Get Down! The first three are<br />
obvious but the last is an order to sink to<br />
our knees and prepare for an imminent<br />
collision. This is too much for one of us who<br />
suddenly loses it: “I don’t want to be<br />
responsible for killing you all” she screams.<br />
We talk her round and soon we’re floating<br />
down the river at great speed.
The trick is to wedge your feet in the gap<br />
between the floor and sides of the boat so<br />
you don’t get thrown out, but one guy is<br />
soon in the water. Fortunately he doesn’t<br />
lose his paddle and we manage to pull him<br />
back in. As we approach the narrow gorge,<br />
the guide pulls us into the shallows and<br />
goes off to inspect. He declares it safe but<br />
only if we work as team, not something<br />
we’ve managed so far. It’s very narrow, the<br />
water is flowing fast and we’re constantly<br />
crashing into the rocks and spinning<br />
round. We lose someone else in the water<br />
but he’s quickly hauled back to safety and<br />
we make it to the end of the ride without<br />
further mishap.<br />
As I climb onto the bank, every bone in my<br />
body is aching. There’s more fun to come,<br />
however, as we’re told that conditions are<br />
perfect for para-gliding, but we must go<br />
now. The women opt out, so it’s left to the<br />
three men, all pretending to each other that<br />
they’re not frightened. In fact, we’re not<br />
going to be flying solo, the plan is for each<br />
of to hang on to an experienced pilot in<br />
what’s known as tandem flight.<br />
We’re driven up the mountain to 1600m<br />
with our flying companions and disguise<br />
our fear by exchanging pleasantries.<br />
Conditions are perfect, no wind, 100%<br />
visibility and good thermals. They tell me it<br />
can be cold in the air and ask if I need a<br />
jacket, but I’m sweating in anticipation. I<br />
ask my pilot Adrian how long he’s been<br />
doing this and he says <strong>15</strong> years, although<br />
he looks young to me. There’s no briefing,<br />
no forms to sign, and we’re just told to<br />
keep running until we lift off. We’re<br />
harnessed together and I put on my<br />
helmet, then told “go”.
I’m running downhill, worrying whether I’m<br />
going too fast or too slow, but suddenly the<br />
land falls away before me and I’m airborne.<br />
We’re soon above the trees and, even<br />
though I’m not good at heights, I realise<br />
there’s nothing I can do, as the pilot is in<br />
complete charge. We’re circling, trying to<br />
find thermals, and climb higher, experiencing<br />
some turbulence. I’m told there’s<br />
nothing to worry about unless I start<br />
feeling sick. Apparently, at this point, some<br />
people experience severe nausea with the<br />
expected results and it can’t be pleasant<br />
cleaning up afterwards.<br />
We keep spiralling upwards and I see one<br />
of my friends way above me. The views are<br />
tremendous down the valley and I begin to<br />
feel I could stay up for ever. Indeed, in<br />
conditions like this it’s normal to travel for<br />
miles, harnessing the thermals to soar over<br />
the mountains. After about 45 minutes, I<br />
begin to hanker for solid ground and am<br />
relieved to find we’re starting to descend.<br />
On the way down, I’m offered the controls<br />
Rupert has a bird's eye view of the valley<br />
from his sky high position<br />
but I politely decline - better to leave it to<br />
the professionals.<br />
As the valley floor comes nearer, there’s a<br />
tractor mowing the grass dangerously<br />
close to the landing site. <strong>No</strong>t to worry, my<br />
pilot can land on a dime, but he does<br />
instruct me to stand up immediately he<br />
gives me the order. I see the freshly mown<br />
grass rushing towards me, I’m worrying<br />
about twisting my ankle, or smashing my<br />
feet, and it looks like we’re going too fast.<br />
He tells me to stand, I stay sitting and land<br />
flat on my bottom, much to his disgust. I’m<br />
just relieved to be down, glad to have<br />
survived intact and pleased I’ve done<br />
something I’ve always dreamt of.<br />
Find information about Samoen's summer<br />
activities: samoens.com<br />
Hotel Les Glaciers makes a comfortable<br />
base: hotel-les-glaciers-samoens.com
Pop in SUPER75 to get a 75% discount on sign up
SPECIAL:<br />
PARIS IN PICTURES<br />
PARIS PHOTO MONTAGE<br />
Paris is the most visited Tourist destination in the world, it’s probably the most<br />
photographed too! And yet, we never tire of seeing pictures of the beautiful city of light.<br />
We're loving these pictures taken in Paris by photographer John Woods from Madison,<br />
Wisconsin, US. He and wife Nancy say any time is good to take a photo in Paris but John<br />
especially likes "getting up early and walking down to the Seine to capture <strong>No</strong>tre Dame,<br />
the bridges across the river, the Louvre, Place de la Concorde, Montmartre, the gardens,<br />
the streets, the people, the monuments—really just about anywhere."<br />
R<br />
b
ight: Arc de<br />
Triompe;<br />
elow apero<br />
hour -<br />
typically<br />
Paris
Montmartre, the arty & fabulous<br />
hill top village of Paris...
PARIS IN PICTURES<br />
Left: the<br />
arcades of<br />
Place des<br />
Vosges;<br />
below:<br />
covered<br />
passage
INFORMATION<br />
Recommended restaurant in Paris: Moulin<br />
de la Gallette for its history, fab food and<br />
friendly service. Website:<br />
Lemoulindelagalette.fr<br />
Recommended Hotel in the centre of Paris:<br />
Hotel Marignan for its location just off the<br />
Champs-Elysées, gorgeous rooms, friendly<br />
staff and for making guests feel welcome<br />
and brilliantly looked after.<br />
Website: hotelmarignaneleseesparis.com<br />
Top left: Window at<br />
<strong>No</strong>tre Dame Cathedral;<br />
Above: gargoyles of<br />
Paris<br />
More on Paris, just click to read:<br />
Top ten Paris visits for first timers<br />
5 Brilliant free museums in Paris<br />
5 off the beaten track things to do in Paris,<br />
including the house of a man who appears<br />
in a Harry Potter story!<br />
Rue Mouffetard - the oldest street in Paris
Marty Neumeier reveals how to make friends in France over a game of bo<br />
Anton crouches, motionless. He cups a<br />
scuffed metal ball in his right hand, his face<br />
the picture of concentration. Seconds go<br />
by. A minute. The other players are silent<br />
as they wait for his throw. Then, without<br />
moving the rest of his body so much as a<br />
centimetre, he turns his hand over and flips<br />
the ball into the air. It floats there as if the<br />
law of gravity has been suspended. When<br />
the ball comes down with a thud, it rolls to<br />
within inches of the marker.<br />
Robert shakes his head. “Boule devant,<br />
boule d’argent.” A front ball is a money ball.<br />
It can easily block opponents from getting<br />
closer to the marker.<br />
Friday night is boules night in the village.<br />
The official name of boules is pétanque,<br />
meaning “feet fixed.” There’s no difference<br />
between pétanque and boules, but boules<br />
is one syllable shorter, so in our book it<br />
wins. The boules court is a flat, sandy patch<br />
in back of the village salle des fêtes, the<br />
town’s banquet hall. Mature trees surround<br />
the court, and floodlights hang from the<br />
trees to illuminate late games.<br />
Anyone can show up and get on a team.<br />
Regulars are Anton and Sophie, Robert and<br />
Jeannine, Jean-Pierre and Josette, and Peter<br />
and Christine. The four couples are usually<br />
joined by Gilbert, Marco, and Baako, older<br />
men who live nearby. Then there’s Aimée, a<br />
sassy teenager who arrives by motorcycle<br />
and cries “Oh, putain!” whenever she<br />
misses a shot. But the de facto leader of<br />
the group is Jean-Pierre. We’re not exactly<br />
sure why this is. He’s short and shy with a<br />
round belly held in place by a sleeveless<br />
undershirt. <strong>No</strong>t the classic attributes of a<br />
leader—but leader he is.
oules must have a pattern of lines that<br />
distinguishes them from those of the other<br />
players. In the village, players tell their<br />
boules apart by the number of scratches<br />
and the color of the rust.<br />
I was delighted when Sara gave me a set of<br />
boules for my birthday. Yet whenever I use<br />
them I feel slightly embarrassed. The best<br />
players have boules that are dark and<br />
rough with age; mine are still as shiny as<br />
silver dollars. When everyone’s boules are<br />
thrown, mine stand out from the others,<br />
usually somewhere outside the grouping. I<br />
feel this is a metaphor.<br />
ules...<br />
The objective of the game is simple: To get<br />
your boules closer to the marker ball, or<br />
cochonnet, than those of your opponent.<br />
(Cochonnet is French for “piglet,” named<br />
for its smaller size; some are even pink.)<br />
There are two sets of rules for achieving<br />
the objective: the official rules and the<br />
village rules.<br />
For example, the official rules call for no<br />
more than three players per team. In the<br />
village, it’s come one, come all. If people<br />
show up late, Jean-Pierre just sticks them<br />
on a team and gives the other team a<br />
couple of extra throws.<br />
In the official rules, players are required to<br />
toss their boules from within a perfect<br />
circle drawn exactly 50 centimetres in<br />
diameter. In the village, players throw from<br />
behind a scuff mark made by Josette with<br />
the heel of her shoe.<br />
The official rules say that each player’s<br />
Josette steps up to the line with a boule in<br />
each hand. She’s the polar opposite of<br />
Anton. Anton plays like a professional—<br />
muscular, precise, strategic. Josette just<br />
walks up to the line with a giggle and<br />
tosses the ball. If the throw happens to be a<br />
crucial one, she’ll stick out her tongue for<br />
added accuracy. Surprisingly, Anton’s and<br />
Josette’s styles seem to be equally<br />
effective.<br />
Josette’s first ball lands just to the side of<br />
Anton’s.“Merde, pas la!” She throws her<br />
arms up in disbelief. Her second ball is right<br />
on target. It nudges Anton’s slightly to the<br />
left, replacing it with her own and holding<br />
the point for the team. She does a little<br />
victory dance, chubby arms and legs flying<br />
every which way. “Pas mal,” says Anton,<br />
grudgingly. Next up is Baako. Baako and<br />
Marco originally came from Italy, so they<br />
speak a sort of “Fritalian.”<br />
“Troppo fort!” says Marco, as he throws his<br />
boule too hard, sending it past the<br />
cochonnet. He mutters something<br />
decidedly un-French, and casts his eyes<br />
heavenward. Taking a deep breath, he goes<br />
back to the line. His second ball falls short.<br />
“Oh, la la. Maintenant troppo faible!” Too<br />
weak!
Josette says that the ball probably hit a<br />
caillou—a pebble. “Ce n’est pas de ta faute,”<br />
she says, touching his arm. He seems<br />
reassured to think the pebble may be at<br />
fault.Peter goes next. He’s tall and thin<br />
compared to the French, and looks more<br />
like cricket bowler than a boules player.<br />
He’s about to go into shooting mode.<br />
Shooting is a strategy in which the player<br />
throws the ball hard enough to knock an<br />
opponent’s boule away from the<br />
cochonnet, or the cochonnet away from an<br />
opponent’s boule.<br />
Just as Peter is about to throw, Robert<br />
emits a barely audible clucking noise. Peter<br />
stops in mid-windup. He puts his hands on<br />
his hips, tilts his head, and stares at Robert.<br />
Their running joke is that Peter turns<br />
chicken whenever he throws. Robert looks<br />
away and feigns innocence.<br />
Peter winds up again, and Robert clucks<br />
again. This time Peter follows through and<br />
his boule misses Josette’s by a mile,<br />
skittering off into the trees. Robert can’t<br />
contain a guffaw.<br />
On his second throw, Peter is ready for him,<br />
and he knocks Josette’s boule off to the<br />
right with an explosive crack, leaving the<br />
cochonnet open.<br />
Up comes Marco, a man so old that he<br />
doesn’t actually walk. He simply rocks back<br />
and forth while leaning forward. His<br />
throwing style is a miracle of efficiency: he<br />
stands ramrod straight under his sailor hat,<br />
imagining the course of the boule; then he<br />
opens his hand. The boule rolls down his<br />
fingers, onto the ground, and continues to<br />
the target as if pulled by a magnet.<br />
This time it rolls right up to the cochonnet<br />
and holds the point.<br />
Jeannine is the last to go. Her throwing style<br />
could be described as no style at all. Most<br />
players lead with the back of the hand as<br />
they lob the boule into the air, but Jeannine<br />
just tosses it out there underhand.<br />
Her boule lands short of Marco’s, then rolls<br />
up close to it. So close, in fact, that all the<br />
players rush up to see who has won the<br />
round. Jean-Pierre stares at the two balls<br />
and the cochonnet. He squints and rubs his<br />
chin. He looks at Robert, who is walking<br />
from one side to the other to get a better<br />
view. Sophie says it’s Jeannine. Christine<br />
thinks it’s Marco. Members of both teams<br />
are down on their haunches to get a better<br />
look at the situation. Opinions are running<br />
about fifty-fifty. There’s no resolution in<br />
sight.<br />
Simple rules of boules<br />
The game is played between two teams of 1, 2<br />
or 3 players - singles or doubles.<br />
To start a coin is generally tossed to decide<br />
who begins the game and has the right to<br />
place the cochonnet (the small ball - literally<br />
piglet). You can also use an a stone or cork<br />
from a bottle.<br />
A circle is drawn by the winning team of the<br />
coin toss. Players must not step outside while<br />
throwing. The circle should be about 0.5m in<br />
diameter. The cochonnet is tossed between<br />
4m and 8m, or 6 to 10 paces from the circle in<br />
any direction.<br />
A player from the coin toss winning team<br />
throws the first boule. The aim is to get it as<br />
close as possible to the “cochonnet” without<br />
touching it. Both feet must stay together on<br />
the ground and within the circle while<br />
throwing and until the boule has landed.<br />
A player from the other team steps into the<br />
circle and aims to throw a boule closer to the<br />
cochonnet than their opponent, or to knock the<br />
opponent’s boule away. You must throw within<br />
1 minute of your turn starting.<br />
More details on the rules of playing on The
“Attention!” I shout. I’m standing just<br />
outside the group, waving my iPhone. On<br />
the screen is the Pétanque-ometer, a clever<br />
little app that David Stuart told me about.<br />
You hold your phone over the cochonnet,<br />
and the app draws concentric rings to<br />
show precisely which ball is closest. I push<br />
my way into the middle of the group.<br />
“Regardez,” I say, lining up the phone with<br />
the boules. The whole group leans in. They<br />
look at the phone. They look at me.<br />
Then Robert starts clucking. Low at first,<br />
then louder. Soon everyone is imitating a<br />
chicken. “Look at the screen,” I say, “It’s<br />
Jeannine. Jeannine is closest!” The<br />
clucking gives way to out-and-out<br />
heckling.<br />
“Merci, monsieur iPhone,” says Robert. He<br />
turns to the crowd: “Mesdames et<br />
messieurs, c’est Steve Jobs!”<br />
Aimée runs over to a lavender bush and<br />
breaks off a length of stem. She runs back<br />
and stretches it from the cochonnet to one<br />
boule, and then to the other. She looks up<br />
at Jean-Pierre.<br />
“C’est Marco!” he cries. The players nod<br />
their heads in agreement. Jean-Pierre looks<br />
at me pityingly, and says I can throw out<br />
the marker to start the next round.<br />
“Allez, monsieur iPhone,” he says, handing<br />
me the cochonnet.<br />
Eileen and Sara beam from the sidelines.<br />
We were in.<br />
Marty Neumeier is the author of Beginning<br />
French by Les Americains. Find out more at<br />
his website: Beginning French
Zoom in on:<br />
burgundy<br />
Janine Marsh visits Burgundy and<br />
falls in love with its many charms<br />
Photo: Dave Fenwick
Photo: Chateau Tanlay, Yonne<br />
Burgundy has it all: glorious countryside, vineyards, amazing gastronomy, a<br />
fabulous history, picturesque villages, awesome towns, the Burgundy Canal and<br />
an incredible capital city – Dijon. There are also more chateaux in this region than<br />
any other in France many of them available to the public as hotels with well<br />
stocked wine cellars, gourmet restaurants and swimming pools.<br />
Wine, chateaux, gastronomy!<br />
Of the hundreds of reasons why you will<br />
fall in love with Burgundy, or to give it its<br />
French name Bourgogne, and be tempted<br />
to visit again and again - these three stand<br />
out for me: the wonderful wines - some of<br />
the best in the world; the plethora of<br />
delicious cheeses and the astonishingly<br />
beautiful chateaux.<br />
<strong>No</strong>t to mention the diversity of the local<br />
landscape, the chance to stay in a fabulous<br />
chateau, amazing heritage, picturesque<br />
villages, the waterways, the peacefulness of<br />
the countryside, amazing cycle routes, the<br />
friendly people, delicious gastronomy and a<br />
city that's quite simply extraordinary -<br />
Dijon…<br />
Dijon Capital of Bourgogne-<br />
Franche-Comté<br />
The Dukes of Burgundy were once more<br />
powerful than the royal family of France.<br />
Hugely wealthy, they were patrons of the<br />
arts and spent fortunes on making Dijon as<br />
beautiful as possible. An enormous palace,<br />
wide open squares, medieval streets with<br />
gorgeous mansions – their legacy is there<br />
on every corner.<br />
Wander round Dijon town and soak up the<br />
beauty of this historic town that bears so<br />
many traces of its illustrious and very<br />
prosperous past. Pop into a modern clothes<br />
shop and discover an ancient well left over<br />
from the <strong>15</strong>th Century. Dip down an<br />
alleyway and find a hidden medieval house<br />
that looks like it was built yesterday.
The unique and free to enter Museum of<br />
Burgundy Life in Dijon has an eclectic and<br />
rather wonderful mix of objects from giant<br />
snail sculptures to a clock in the shape of<br />
the Eiffel Tower. The recreations of shops<br />
and their contents from the 19th and early<br />
20th Centuries are truly superb.<br />
Dine out in Dijon<br />
Rest your feet and people watch at Place<br />
Francois Rude, encircled by cafés and bars<br />
whose tables spill onto the pedestrianised<br />
square. A lively place named after the<br />
Dijon-born sculptor of “La Marseilleise”<br />
which graces the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.<br />
The locals call it Place du Bareuzai thanks<br />
to the statue of a naked man treading<br />
grapes; the name means ”red stockings”<br />
(from bas rosé) which the winegrowers had<br />
after crushing grapes with their feet.<br />
There’s a huge choice of places to eat in<br />
Dijon but I really love Les Oenophiles<br />
restaurant for its <strong>15</strong>th century pigeonnier,<br />
17th century dining room, 100% home<br />
cooked food and incredible tasting boeuf<br />
bourguignon, the region’s signature dish.<br />
A perfect Day in Dijon<br />
My perfect day would start with a visit to<br />
Dijon market lapping up the atmosphere,<br />
followed by coffee in the square with a<br />
nibble on a nonette, the local gingerbread<br />
cake. Then I'd browse the second hand<br />
book stalls, have lunch in the Place<br />
Francois Rude and wander the shops and<br />
museums in the afternoon. After which I<br />
reckon it would be time for an apero at the<br />
hipster houseboat Peniche Cancale and<br />
then dinner at Les Oenophiles.
The Eiffel designed market<br />
at Dijon<br />
The beautiful covered market at Dijon was<br />
designed by no less than the great Gustave<br />
Eiffel, creator of the famous tower in Paris<br />
who was born in this city.<br />
Burgundians love their food and in this<br />
market you will really see, smell and taste<br />
the love that goes into preparing it. From<br />
bread with little heart shaped ends to snail<br />
cake, divine chocolate nibbles and<br />
amazing cheese such as Epoisses<br />
produced in a little village of the same<br />
name - all washed down with locally<br />
produced wine such as Chablis.<br />
There is a café in the centre of the market<br />
that simply oozes joie de vivre as happy<br />
customers sit and chat… and eat.<br />
Beaune the winetastic town<br />
From Dijon you can take a train or tram to<br />
Beaune for some serious wine tasting in<br />
the home of the famous and really quite<br />
magnificent Hospices de Beaune.<br />
It’s a pretty town where they take their wine<br />
seriously. When one of the locals<br />
discovered that robbers had been<br />
tunnelling from her wine cellar into the local<br />
bank, she called the robbers “idiots” for<br />
ignoring her wine collection which she felt<br />
was far more worthy than the gold or<br />
money in the bank!<br />
The Hospices de Beaune was a cutting<br />
edge hospital in the 1400s and incredibly<br />
parts of it stayed open until the 1990s. It is<br />
a fascinating place to visit with a fabulous<br />
collection of paintings and THAT roof.
Useful Sites<br />
Burgundy Tourism:<br />
burgundytourism.com<br />
Chateaux in Burgundy:<br />
bourgogne-visit.org<br />
Great activities for families<br />
in Burgundy<br />
Enjoy a picnic along the famous Burgundy<br />
canal, better yet, take a fabulous cruise and<br />
enjoy it in true style on a barge - I did it with<br />
Captain Jason and Chef Dawn of the Barge<br />
Saroche, one of my best ever holidays.<br />
Cycle – there are 800 km of cycle routes<br />
and 5 major routes. One of the most fun<br />
and relaxing ways to see the area by bike is<br />
with Headwater Holidays. They provide<br />
bikes, ferry your luggage around, book you<br />
into restaurants and hotels and make sure<br />
you get to see the best of the region<br />
without having to work hard at it.<br />
A must-see is the Chateau of Guedelon,<br />
Yonnne, a medieval castle being built in the<br />
21st Century. (Open March – <strong>No</strong>vember)<br />
Auxerre Tourist Office:<br />
ot-auxerre.fr<br />
Don’t miss<br />
Chateauneuf- en-Auxois is a fairy-tale<br />
looking picture perfect hill top Burgundian<br />
country town. It overlooks the Burgundy<br />
Canal and is officially one of the “Plus<br />
Beaux Villages de France”. A great place to<br />
spend a relaxing day chilling out though<br />
there is not a lot to do other than wander,<br />
wonder and eat - the views alone are worth<br />
the detour.<br />
Auxerre: a recognised city of "art and<br />
History" and one of the most beautiful<br />
cities in France. The medieval architecture,<br />
half-timbered houses and wiggly streets<br />
are a window to the past. There are lots of<br />
great restaurants and bars, museums and<br />
tourist attractions plus the 1000 year old<br />
majestic Abbey Saint-Germain.
LE NORD<br />
The <strong>No</strong>rth of France, or Le <strong>No</strong>rd, is a region<br />
that won't fail to delight your senses, no<br />
matter what your age says Justine Halifax…<br />
The area is brimming with character, history<br />
and fun activities. Whether it's gastronomy,<br />
the great outdoors, architecture or taking a<br />
close look at the Great War battlefields<br />
which drives your itinerary, you’ll certainly<br />
not be disappointed when you pay this<br />
fabulous area a visit.<br />
My family spent three wonderful nights at a<br />
magnificent property called Manoir du<br />
Bolgaro at Morbeque, near Hazebrouck. It’s<br />
an impressive, luxurious getaway, which I<br />
highly recommend for a get together with<br />
family or friends.<br />
A manor house dating back to <strong>15</strong>40, set on<br />
a huge, beautiful, secluded swathe of land,<br />
this amazing, three storey gite, steeped in<br />
character, can sleep up to 12 people. Eager<br />
to enjoy and soak up as much of this<br />
atmospheric property as we could, we<br />
chose to eat in most nights, but we<br />
ventured out one night at an amazing<br />
estaminet that was recommended by Eric<br />
and Francoise, the lovely couple who run Le<br />
Manoir du Bolgaro.<br />
The Estaminet de la Longue Croix, just a 10<br />
minute drive away, is a popular, cosy and<br />
family friendly restaurant brimming with<br />
historical and regional character. There are<br />
old artefacts hanging from the ceiling and<br />
they serve tasty regional fare here. You can<br />
even play traditional Flemish wooden<br />
games at your table - provided for your<br />
enjoyment! I highly recommend you try the<br />
roti porc and "The Welsh". The service was<br />
fantastic, the restaurant was very<br />
atmospheric and welcoming for families.<br />
There were nice little touches for the<br />
children - a glow stick bracelet with pudding<br />
and place mats to colour in between meals.<br />
But, be warned, this is so popular that<br />
tables must be booked a couple of weeks<br />
in advance so plan ahead before you travel.
WHAT TO SEE<br />
There are many reminders of WW1,<br />
including museums and a host of tourist<br />
attractions. These include the famous<br />
Cistercian abbey at Mont des Cats on<br />
Flanders hill – where you can buy the beer<br />
brewed by the monks who reside there to<br />
this day; the towns of Bailleul, Cassel and<br />
Bergues; the city of Lille, where there’s lots<br />
to visit or you can just sit and soak up the<br />
atmosphere; famous Flemish gardens of<br />
Mont des Récollets, Cassel; les gigottos<br />
automates for children in Esquelbecq –<br />
and there’s also a small craft brewery here<br />
that can be viewed by appointment called<br />
Brasserie Thiriez.<br />
In Dunkerque there’s the Museum of the<br />
Port, which includes climbing on board a<br />
couple of docked ships; UNESCO Listed<br />
58-metre St Eloi belfry, and Mémorial du<br />
Souvenir, where you can learn about WW2<br />
Operation Dyanamo; for a trip to the<br />
seaside you are close to Bray-Dunes; if you<br />
want to simply enjoy the outdoors then<br />
there’s the Avesnois regional nature park.<br />
To find out more about Maroilles cheese<br />
that the region is also famous for, take an<br />
insightful tour at Ferme du Ponts des<br />
Loups at Saint-Aubin, which includes<br />
sampling its cheese-y delights before<br />
buying some to take home.<br />
The first known taste of Maroilles dates<br />
back to the 7th century. It comes from the<br />
village of the same name in the Avesnois,<br />
<strong>No</strong>rd, where the abbey monks transformed<br />
milk into in cheese. It's the only AOC<br />
(appellation d'origine contrôlée - a<br />
recognised mark of quality) from the <strong>No</strong>rd.<br />
More than 4000 tons are eaten in France<br />
each year!
If your family that loves the great outdoors<br />
then Val Joly is the place to head for. Just<br />
90 minutes from Lille, the family orientated<br />
resort is nestled in a picturesque natural<br />
park surrounding the largest lake north of<br />
Paris. It boasts a host of kids activities<br />
ranging from water sports, like windsurfing,<br />
sailing, canoes, catamarans, electric and<br />
pedal boats. There's a great tree climb<br />
adventure; an equestrian centre where you<br />
can take a pony ride, riding lessons or a full<br />
day ride; trampolines; an aquarium;<br />
archery; laser tag; mini golf; bike and<br />
scooter hire; fishing; craft activities; or you<br />
could simply enjoy local nature walks. Our<br />
home while there was a cosy wooden<br />
cottage, on the edge of the lake.<br />
INFORMATION<br />
For more on Val Joly visit www.val-joly.com<br />
Website for: Manoir du Bolgarno<br />
Recommended restaurant: When staying at<br />
Le Manoir du Bolgaro don't miss the<br />
Estaminet de Longue Croix in Hondeghem.<br />
Traditional Flemish Games: If you would<br />
like to buy any local Flemish wooden<br />
games, Justine recommends artisan<br />
carpenter Philip Lefebvre at 76 Rue de la<br />
Poissonerie in Saint Omer
NEW SERIES...<br />
A page from the history of France<br />
Susan Cahill reveals the legacy of King Henri IV in Paris...<br />
If you know Paris, you will have walked<br />
over the Pont Neuf , the creation of King<br />
Henri IV (<strong>15</strong>53 - 1610), visionary, lover,<br />
pluralist, urban designer, and soldier, who<br />
inherited the throne (<strong>15</strong>94) as the bloody<br />
civil Wars of Religion between Catholics<br />
and the “heretic” Protestants were still<br />
raging. The fanatics hated him because he<br />
was Protestant. A pragmatist, and disenchanted<br />
to say the least with partisan<br />
religions, Henri became a Catholic to calm<br />
Catholic Paris. (There is no evidence that<br />
he ever said, “Paris is worth a Mass.” as<br />
some claim). He was crowned Rex<br />
Christianissimus in Chartres.<br />
Within a few years he had made Paris a city<br />
of tolerance saying "Those who genuinely<br />
follow their conscience are of my religion -<br />
as for me, I belong to the faith of everyone<br />
who is brave and true... We must be<br />
brought to agreement by reason and<br />
kindness, and not by strictness and<br />
cruelty... “ The same year he undertook the<br />
Pont Neuf (<strong>15</strong>98) he issued the Edict of<br />
Nantes, granting tolerance and freedom of<br />
worship to the Protestants.<br />
Paris was still a war zone of filthy ruins after<br />
decades of war. But Henri was determined<br />
to transform it, “to make this city beautiful,<br />
tranquil, to make it a whole world and a<br />
wonder of the world.” (He adored beautiful<br />
women, having had, according to myth<br />
and/or history, 53 mistresses and many<br />
bastards.) After opening the famous bridge<br />
over the Ile de la Cite, between the Left and<br />
Right Banks - some consider the view from<br />
the Pont Neuf the most beautiful prospect<br />
in Paris - he extended the Louvre, building<br />
its Grande Galerie; designed the Orangerie;<br />
the lovely Place Dauphine directly across<br />
from the bronze horse on the bridge with<br />
Henri in the saddle.
NEW SERIES...<br />
Far right:<br />
Pont Neuf;<br />
right the<br />
leafy Place<br />
des Vosges,<br />
legacies of<br />
Henry IV of<br />
France...<br />
His most superb creation was the Place<br />
des Vosges in the Marais. He envisioned a<br />
large open public space surrounded by<br />
handsome pavilions of red brick and<br />
golden stone, with vendors in the arcades,<br />
bordered by rows of lime trees, and framed<br />
by the pavilions’ salons where literature,<br />
sex, and music would entertain the rich<br />
and royal. Henri ordered his royal square<br />
coupleted in l8 months. The Place to this<br />
day is still a dreamworld in the early<br />
morning light; Sundays are festivals of<br />
families, Parisians, and tourists looking for<br />
brunch. In the l7th century, it was “the fun<br />
part of town.”<br />
But then a drop-out monk, another fanatic,<br />
stabbed him to death with a kitchen knife<br />
when Henri's carriage was stuck in traffic.<br />
All Paris changed... "everyone began to wail<br />
and cry, with women and girls tearing their<br />
hair out.” Though Henri was reputedly a<br />
garlicky man, not fond of the bath, he is<br />
remembered in Paris “as a charmer, his<br />
eyes full of sweetness... his whole mien<br />
animated with an uncommon vivacity.” He<br />
remains the most beloved king of France.<br />
The up-dated story of his political marriage<br />
to the much maligned Catholic Marguerite<br />
Valois - (described by male historians as a<br />
fat nymphomaniac) is fascinating. Her<br />
medieval hotel still stands in the quiet<br />
southern Marais, on the Seine. Her story is<br />
as complicated and shocking as her<br />
husband’s as well as the story of the St.<br />
Bartholomew’s Day Massacre at the time<br />
of their wedding which - miraculously - did<br />
not kill them both. Margot hid Henri under<br />
her bed and inside her closet while Catholic<br />
royalty and their courtiers beheaded<br />
thousands of Protestant wedding guests<br />
and tossed their heads out the windows of<br />
the Louvre...<br />
Susan Cahill is the author of THE STREETS OF PARIS: A Guide to the City of Light Following in<br />
the Footsteps of Famous Parisians Throughout History (St Martin’s Press, June, 2017). A<br />
brilliant read which brings to life 22 dramatic stories of brilliant and passionate Parisian<br />
characters in their physical settings, along the streets that tell the stories of their inspiration,<br />
of how they became the icons that Paris - and history, and are still celebratde. Available from<br />
Amazon.
Jazz in Marciac<br />
© Francis Vernhet<br />
Peter Jones waxes lyrical...<br />
Tucked away in the small valleys of the Gers in south west France is the classic<br />
bastide town of Marciac. It’s not huge, it has a population of around 1300. The<br />
town is dominated by a central village square whose town hall is its main feature,<br />
lined with shops and cafés.<br />
But one thing makes Marciac unique<br />
amongst the many bastide towns of France<br />
and that is Jazz.<br />
Back in 1978 a small group of friends led by<br />
school teacher Jean-Louis Guilhaumon<br />
started a small jazz festival. Nearly 40<br />
years later, it has become one of the most<br />
important jazz festivals in the world.<br />
More than 250,000 people visit the<br />
Marciac Jazz Festival and 65,000 attend<br />
concerts in the Chapiteau (a huge<br />
marquee) erected on the town’s rugby<br />
pitch. It’s here that not just some, but<br />
nearly all of the biggest names in Jazz have<br />
played over those 40 years.<br />
The highlight of the 2016 festival for many<br />
people was a performance by the<br />
legendary Ahmad Jamal. At 86 years old he<br />
came out of retirement to play his only<br />
concert in the world that year. What, I<br />
asked, bought him to play his music in a<br />
little bastide town in Gascony, “when Jean -<br />
Louis asks, you say yes, he is a very special<br />
man” he said, and smiled.<br />
One time school teacher Jean-Louis<br />
Guilhaumon is now mayor of Marciac and<br />
President of the Marciac Jazz festival. He is<br />
also Vice-President of the regional council<br />
of the Midi-Pyrenees.<br />
He is immensely proud that the college he<br />
taught at, now has Jazz on the curriculum.<br />
20 pupils from the area have gone on to be<br />
professional musicians and the town has a<br />
permanent concert venue, the very modern<br />
500 seat L’Astrada , which hosts music,<br />
theatre and dance throughout the year.
Music is everywhere when the festival is on.<br />
Every bar, street corner and alleyway has<br />
musicians playing their hearts out.<br />
The square is one huge free festival, vibrant,<br />
exciting and great for the trip jazz fan or not.<br />
Over the years, luminaries such as Stan Getz,<br />
Dizzy Gillespie, Nina Simone and Ray Charles<br />
have played Marciac.<br />
But Marciac is not just a town for the jazz<br />
festival, it is worth visiting anytime in the year.<br />
The Jazz Museum Les Territoires du Jazz is also<br />
well worth a visit as are the local Armagnac<br />
vineyards and those of Plaimont wine growers<br />
where you can even sponsor a vine named after<br />
a jazz musician!<br />
Website: Les Teritoires du Jazz Museum<br />
See next page for more<br />
jazzy festivals in France...<br />
information<br />
Jazz in Marciac 2017 has a whole<br />
raft of international names lined up<br />
and this is one event that any<br />
music and jazz lover will not want<br />
to miss:<br />
<strong>No</strong>rah Jones<br />
George Benson<br />
Herbie Hancock<br />
Didier Lockwood<br />
Manu Dibango<br />
And many more of the world’s best<br />
jazz musicians are set to thrill in<br />
the sun from July 28 – August <strong>15</strong>.<br />
Details: jazzinmarciac.com<br />
Practical stuff:<br />
Reserve tickets before you go :<br />
www.jazzinmarciac.com<br />
The tourist office has details for<br />
accommodation in the area:<br />
www.marciactourisme.com
Around and about at the Marciac Jazz<br />
Festival<br />
The gorgeous Gers is famous for its stunning landscape but did you know that<br />
it’s also one of the best wine making areas of France? It’s not just awesome<br />
Armagnac that’s made here, but also sublime wines. The vines grow alongside<br />
fields of bright sunflowers on steep hills, in natural valleys, in rolling, lush<br />
countryside in soil that’s rich.<br />
Wine buffs are calling the Gers “the new Bordeaux” and raving about the quality<br />
of wine that’s being produced here.<br />
Oenologist and wine writer Tom Fiorina from the US but now living in France, is<br />
letting people in on the secret. He is running a tour in the Gers in which he’ll<br />
take you to visit family-run vineyards and charming and authentic domains<br />
where you’ll receive a warm welcome and a memorable tasting visit. You’ll learn<br />
about the history of wine and production and it’s importance to the way of life<br />
in the region known as Gascony.<br />
Take the tour of Gers fabulous vineyards with Tom Fiorina, French Country<br />
Adventures: July 28-30, 2017. Click here for details and more insider tours of<br />
Gascony at: French Country Adventures
Jazz in Juan-les-Pins, Antibess<br />
The cultural heart of the Cote d’Azur is a<br />
place to sit and watch the world go by. It’s<br />
also where you’ll enjoy a jazz festival in<br />
what must be one of the most lush<br />
settings in the world. Cannes is in the<br />
background, the Mediterranean Sea<br />
glistens in the sun, the scent of pine trees<br />
fills the air . The longest running of<br />
European jazz festivals islegendary.<br />
jazzajuan.com read our review<br />
Jazz in <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
In late spring the apples trees vibrate to the<br />
sound of music as Coutances, in the<br />
department of Manche turns from a sleepy<br />
medieval market town to a thronging jazz<br />
town. Punching way above its weight, the<br />
eight-day festival spills out of marquees,<br />
social halls, bars and church buildings on<br />
to streets thronged with music lovers. 50<br />
plus concerts, presenting a kaleidoscope<br />
of jazz styles, from Dixieland and boogiewoogie<br />
to avant-garde: read our review<br />
jazzsouslespommiers.com<br />
Jazz in Nice<br />
Nice is home to one of the oldest jazz<br />
festivals in Europe. It opened in 1948 and<br />
headlining the bill was one Louis<br />
Armstrong and his All Stars. Held annually<br />
in July, in the height of the summer sun, it’s<br />
a mellow, fun and fabulous festival that<br />
takes place in the centre of the sunny city<br />
with up to 9000 spaces for jazz fans over 5<br />
nights of music and mayhem.<br />
nicejazzfestival.fr<br />
Jazz in Paris<br />
Seven weekends of jazz events in the<br />
lovely Parc Floral make for a music lovers<br />
dream come true. This event has become<br />
ever more popular since it was founded in<br />
1994 and now attracts more than 100,000<br />
spectators. From mid June to the end of<br />
July, the city hums and Parisians flock to<br />
the park to enjoy jazz in the open air. You<br />
pay to enter the park, the concerts are free.<br />
Take a picnic and chill – it’s a great way to<br />
feel like a local and experience authentic<br />
Paris. parisjazzfestival.fr
YOUR PHOTOS<br />
Every weekend, we invite you to share your photos on Facebook - it's a great way for<br />
everyone to see "real" France and be inspired by real travellers snapping pics as they<br />
go. Every week there are utterly gorgeous photos being shared and here we share the<br />
most popular of each month. Share your favourite photos with us on Facebook - the<br />
most "liked" will appear in the next issue of The Good Life France Magazine...<br />
MARCH: The Eiffel Tower<br />
looking blooming lovely in<br />
spring. Posted on her<br />
birthday, 31 March this<br />
photo stole the show. With<br />
almost 6000 likes and<br />
more than 2000 shares<br />
reaching more than<br />
200,000 people on<br />
Facebook - this lovely photo<br />
by Kenny Emptage was our<br />
March winner!
APRIL: This colourful<br />
photo of the Roman<br />
amphitheatre in Arles,<br />
south of France made<br />
thousands of people<br />
long to go there. 3000<br />
likes on Facebook<br />
made Jenny Lloyd our<br />
April photo of the<br />
month winner.<br />
MAY: The gorgeous Cathedral of<br />
Reims in Champagne, 2,800 likes on<br />
Facebook for Margaret Fleming's<br />
beautiful photo.<br />
Join us on Facebook<br />
and like and share<br />
your favourite photos<br />
of France...
Keith Van-Sickle reveals his top<br />
tips for learning French...<br />
Research shows that learning a second<br />
language offers proven benefits for intelligence,<br />
memory and concentration, plus<br />
lowered risks of dementia and Alzheimer's.<br />
Learning French can be challenging but fun<br />
- and it makes trips to France that much<br />
more rewarding. Here’s how I learned<br />
French in my 50s:<br />
Build a Foundation<br />
You need some rudimentary knowledge to<br />
get started, like the fundamentals of<br />
grammar and pronunciation. So take a<br />
beginner’s course - you can easily find one<br />
online or at a local college or community<br />
center. Start by building that foundation.<br />
Talk Talk Talk<br />
It is fascinating to talk to French people in<br />
their own language. By far the best way to<br />
learn a new language is to speak it. But who<br />
wants to talk to a newbie who can barely<br />
string three words together?<br />
The answer is – another newbie. A<br />
language partner.<br />
Websites, like mylanguageexchange.com,<br />
help you find French speakers who want to<br />
learn English. Find someone whose level is<br />
the same as yours. This other person faces<br />
the same challenges you do, so they will be<br />
patient as you struggle with French as they<br />
know exactly what you are going through.<br />
You are helping them and they are helping<br />
you. I found Skype calls once or twice a<br />
week really accelerated my learning. I do<br />
them for about an hour at a time, the first<br />
half in French and the second in English.<br />
Pro tip: Video calls are better than voice,<br />
especially when you need to pantomime<br />
(and you will.)
Listen, Too<br />
When you are first learning French and<br />
someone speaks to you, the words can<br />
kind of run together. You need to “tune<br />
your ear” so you can distinguish individual<br />
words. The way to do this is by listening to<br />
a lot of it.<br />
Happily, there are French-language<br />
podcasts on just about any subject. You<br />
like cooking, history, sports? There is a<br />
podcast for you.<br />
Listen to these podcasts as you walk the<br />
dog or work in the garden. At first it will be<br />
a blur, but slowly your brain will adapt and<br />
you’ll be able to hear the different words.<br />
That’s a big step to learning French.<br />
You Don’t Have to be Perfect<br />
<strong>No</strong> one likes to make mistakes, so there is<br />
a natural tendency to avoid talking until<br />
you are really good. But that creates a kind<br />
of Catch-22 because you need to talk in<br />
order to get really good. Stop worrying and<br />
learn to laugh at yourself.<br />
People appreciate it when you make an<br />
effort to speak their language. I have found<br />
that French people smile and encourage<br />
me when I try to speak French. It shows<br />
respect for their culture. Who doesn’t<br />
appreciate that?<br />
Sometimes when you make a<br />
mistake, you get a funny story out of<br />
it.<br />
French and English share a lot of words,<br />
like nation and pause. If I don’t know a<br />
word in French I sometimes fake it by<br />
using the English word with a French<br />
accent. It usually works, but not always.<br />
I once served some French friends a<br />
cheese with edible ash on it. I announced<br />
it in French as a cheese with ash. My<br />
friends, shocked, explained that this meant<br />
hashish. Oops.<br />
Anticipate a Few Ups and Downs<br />
Language learning is a funny thing – it<br />
happens in spurts. You seem to make no<br />
progress at all, sometimes for weeks, and<br />
suddenly you take a big leap forward. So<br />
don’t be discouraged when you feel like<br />
you are working hard and not getting<br />
anywhere. And enjoy the leaps when they<br />
happen.<br />
Have Fun!<br />
This is going to take a while and you need<br />
to have fun to stick with it. So find ways to<br />
enjoy the language as you are learning.<br />
Take a trip to France to try out your new<br />
skills. Watch French movies. Go to a<br />
French restaurant and chat with the<br />
waiters.<br />
I subscribe to a US newspaper and a<br />
French one. I look for stories that both<br />
papers have covered and read them in<br />
English and then in French (I read English<br />
first because that helps me understand<br />
what the story is about.) It can be<br />
fascinating to see two perspectives on the<br />
same subject.<br />
After following this approach, I can now<br />
hold meaningful conversations in my<br />
second language. I have friends in France<br />
and even read French books. It still<br />
surprises me because I was terrible with<br />
languages as a kid.<br />
Parlez-vous français? You can do it!<br />
Keith Van-Sickle is the author of One Sip at<br />
a Time: Learning to live in Provence, a<br />
charming book about starting a new life in<br />
France...<br />
Available from Amazon
Barbara Pasquet-James a writer who lives in Paris, is no<br />
stranger to the temptations of the city's restaurant scene but<br />
even she was impressed by just how good it can be when she<br />
Paris is indisputably one of the best food<br />
cities in the world. Its marvelous markets<br />
and shops touting eye-popping droolinducing<br />
produce, pastries, chocolates and<br />
more, are fodder for thousands of food<br />
blogs, and there are enough neo bistros<br />
and restaurants to keep food reviewers<br />
busy for a lifetime just revisiting old<br />
chomping grounds.<br />
So imagine being contacted by insatiable<br />
foodie friends from California, with whom<br />
you’ve shared many a stellar meal,<br />
announcing that they are returning to Paris<br />
not for the shopping, not museums or<br />
monuments, but for four days of “extreme<br />
fooding” - a marathon of restaurants they’d<br />
been dreaming about for ages, and they’d<br />
love it if you (and in my case, French hubby<br />
as well) would join them?<br />
My mission, which I cheerily chose to<br />
accept, was to snag reservations at some<br />
of the hardest-to-get tables in town on<br />
relatively short notice. There would be eight<br />
fantastic restaurants in four days: lunches<br />
and dinners. We would eat and drink our<br />
way round the city.<br />
Juggling bookings at sought-after Paris<br />
eateries can be a challenge: most are open<br />
on certain days only. Others just for dinner<br />
and incredibly, starred players are closed<br />
on weekends. But I was both pistonnée<br />
(food writer/guest eater at chefs’ tables)<br />
and very persistent.<br />
Our only restriction: no fish or shellfish for<br />
one in our party. We were afraid this would<br />
prove to be an obstacle at places with fixed<br />
tasting menus but happily, it wasn’t.
Alain Passard alum David Toutain reboots a<br />
conceptual menu daily. Labor intensive and<br />
well-thought out, Toutain’s inventive menus<br />
induce reverie in his faithful, many of whom<br />
migrated with him from Agapé Substance in<br />
Saint-Germain. Give him a root vegetable and<br />
he’s a magician: sweet potato gnocchi, celeriac<br />
tagliatelle with white alba truffle. Toutain’s<br />
signature smoked eel with black sesame and<br />
green apple left us speechless. Throughout, the<br />
term “neo-<strong>No</strong>rdic” kept springing to mind as<br />
many of the courses would have been just as<br />
much at home in a forest as on our plates.<br />
Dessert of cauliflower coconut vanilla cream<br />
with a chef’s surprise of quince chips and white<br />
chocolate ice cream by Jacques Genin was<br />
followed by fire-roasted figs with mascarpone<br />
and root vegetables “churros” with chocolate<br />
and smoked salt. A stunning start.<br />
David Toutain (multi-course tasting menu); 29<br />
Rue Surcouf 75007 Paris<br />
Wednesday Lunch<br />
Wednesday Dinner<br />
Scoring a table at Frenchie on short notice<br />
imparts an enormous sense of<br />
accomplishment. Yet its laid-back location on a<br />
narrow backstreet in the Sentier garment<br />
district makes one wonder what all the<br />
international fuss is about. It’s about the food,<br />
the wine, and terrific service. Nantes native<br />
Gregory Marchand hit it right by offering<br />
gorgeous seasonal farm-to-table fare paired<br />
with just as gorgeous wines. An unpretentious<br />
cave à vins and Frenchie’s To Go followed,<br />
along with gourmet food shops, and now, just a<br />
visit to Frenchie, especially if combined with<br />
nearby market street rue Montorgueil, is a<br />
gourmet experience. Our multi-faceted meal<br />
included perfect duck breast, pumpkin ravioli<br />
packages that exploded with flavor and<br />
crunchy Brussels sprouts topped with<br />
crumbled cheese. Frenchie’s signature maplesyrup-glazed<br />
scones with bacon from the<br />
chalkboard next door put in an appearance and<br />
amused our geueles. Fabuleux.<br />
Frenchie (multi-course tasting menu); 5 Rue du<br />
Nil 75002 Paris
Under the Les Halles canopy a modern<br />
Michelin-starred French bistro-brasserie<br />
signed Alain Ducasse is open every day of<br />
the week. A view of the ancient Church of<br />
Saint-Eustache and modern graffiticovered<br />
walls are a backdrop to French<br />
classics such as boudins, oysters, foie<br />
gras, beef tartare, duck and snails that<br />
share a simple carte alongside ricottaspinach<br />
ravioli, smoked salmon, salads<br />
and oven-fresh soufflés, a specialty.<br />
Kicking off with a coupe de champagne we<br />
tried two raw fish starters: sea bream in<br />
citrus fruit shavings, black pepper and<br />
basil, and sea bass with carrot, fresh lime<br />
and ginger. Spectacular. This was followed<br />
by the copious house salad (romaine,<br />
shaved radish, fennel, carrot, beets.<br />
cucumber dressed in a tart yogurt mint<br />
vinaigrette), all forerunners of two sky-high<br />
soufflés - one cheese, the other in-season<br />
Thursday Lunch asparagus - both exploding with flavor and<br />
obscenely generous.<br />
Wines were expertly paired with each course. By the time dessert arrived - pistachiolaced<br />
salted butter caramel soufflé, we almost stood up to applaid. But we were too full.<br />
Champeaux Brasserie Bar & Lounge; Forum des Halles La Canopée 75001 Paris<br />
Since the opening of this superstar starred<br />
neo-bistro on a street behind Bastille, chef<br />
Bertrand Grébaut has never looked back. A<br />
relaxed decor belies top talent in the kitchen.<br />
Grébaut’s menu of pure seasonal ingredients<br />
complements a wine list of carefully selected<br />
small producers who avoid additives. All of<br />
the dishes were beautifully presented.<br />
Synergies of flavors and textures were<br />
showcased: white asparagus with an oyster<br />
sauce gribiche; pork tenderloin with slivered<br />
radishes; steamed cod with pickled turnips<br />
and yuzu sauce. A dessert, every French<br />
schoolchild’s fave, riz au lait vanille, creamy<br />
rice pudding tanged up with a passion fruit<br />
coulis, arrived with an old favorite, a deconstructed<br />
Mont Blanc of sweetened feta with<br />
its familiar chestnut cream “spaghetti,”<br />
making this meal a knockout, just as we’d<br />
hoped it would be. Next.<br />
Septime (multi-course tasting menu);80 Rue<br />
de Charonne 75011 Paris<br />
Friday Lunch<br />
(multi-course tasting menu) Book<br />
well in advance
Verjus is the happy outgrowth of The Hidden Kitchen,<br />
exquisite dinner parties once hosted by Laura Adrian<br />
and Braden Perkins in a private Paris apartment.The<br />
view is of a theater reminiscent of New Orleans’ old<br />
French Quarter and below, in a small intimate room,<br />
is their wine bar with its ever-changing chalkboard. I’d<br />
not dined at Verjus before because we’d fill up on the<br />
apéro plates downstairs - pork belly with sesame<br />
seeds, indescribable Parmesan “churros,” duck<br />
terrine maison with pistachios - and felt no need to<br />
go upstairs for the nine-course extravaganza.<br />
However on this night, oysters from Utah Beach with<br />
rhubarb, gougères dusted with seaweed and salt,<br />
perfectly roasted pork, foie gras with walnuts and a<br />
jaw-dropping beet tarte tatin, plus more, kept us<br />
happy all the way to dessert: caramelized Jerusalem<br />
artichoke ice cream with apple and cinnamon. We<br />
vowed to return.<br />
Verjus (multi-course tasting menu);52 Rue de<br />
Richelieu 75001 Paris<br />
Book well in advance<br />
Friday Dinner<br />
LiLi at the HOTEL PENINSULA<br />
Being escorted through the opulent Hotel Peninsula then<br />
seated in LiLi’s spacious dining room felt like we’d arrived<br />
on a Hollywood film set. This gastro Chinese temple was our<br />
choice for Saturday lunch, not so much for a change from<br />
French cuisine, but to sample their reputed authentic<br />
gourmet Cantonese dim sum, and more. Excited, we went for<br />
the Menu Dim Sum: steamed lobster dumplings with<br />
asparagus, Shanghai-style steamed pork raviolis, chicken<br />
and eggplant dumplings with XO sauce, pan-fried minced<br />
pork dumplings with bok choy, each deliciously succulent<br />
and elegantly presented. But, as the saying goes, “Chinese<br />
food goes right through you,” we decided to loosen our belts<br />
and go for some mains: Peking-style duck, wok-fried<br />
Brittany blue lobster with ginger and spring onions, braised<br />
French beef with fried ginger and, to wash it down, martinis<br />
with lemon twists which, beautifully cleansed our palates<br />
between courses. Dessert? <strong>No</strong>t this time. Dinner would be in<br />
a few hours.<br />
LiLi at the Hotel Peninsula; 19 Avenue Kléber 75016 Paris;<br />
<strong>No</strong>te: The Lobby Restaurant at the Hotel Peninsula has a 48<br />
Euro 2 course lunch/dinner menu that's very good.<br />
Saturday lunch
Our last stop after such a raffinée experience at<br />
lunch, standing-room-only wine-bar-tapas bar<br />
L’Avant Comptoir seemed a natural choice for<br />
dinner. Loyal fans of chef Yves Camdeborde<br />
since his La Régélade days in the far-flung 14th<br />
way back when, we’d followed him to Saint-<br />
Germain-des-Prés. First-timers here are always<br />
astounded when they see the ceiling, a forest of<br />
banners with photos of dozens of small plates.<br />
An impressive selection of wines, sausages, and<br />
an enormous hunk of salt-studded butter<br />
dominates the zinc counter with its country<br />
loaves cut into chunks, still warm, mustard,<br />
cornichons, and fleur de sel for the taking. We<br />
joined the throng and ordered away: crunchy<br />
calamari and crunchier fried chicken with house<br />
fries and sauce gribiche; fried cheese; waffles<br />
topped with an artichoke cream and Bayonne<br />
ham; foie gras with piquillo kebabs; caramelized<br />
pork belly; sautéed cèpe mushrooms with garlic.<br />
We did it. Bordeaux and dry rosé by the glass<br />
and endless toasts with total strangers, and it<br />
was over.<br />
L’Avant Comptoir; 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon<br />
75006 Paris<br />
Saturday Dinner
By Jemma Hélène<br />
Finally I did something I’d wanted to do all<br />
summer.<br />
There’s a lone bench at the end of l’Ilette<br />
peninsula, a stub of land that juts into the<br />
Mediterranean near Antibes’ rampart walls.<br />
The bench faces the bay, looking onto the<br />
old town, or if you peer over your right<br />
shoulder when seated there, the Cap<br />
d’Antibes. Smack in the centre of that view<br />
lies our summertime home, Bellevue.<br />
Below the bench the sea rolls onto the<br />
rocks. Next door is an upscale beach<br />
restaurant – but this, you could say, is a<br />
new addition.<br />
The bench itself is unremarkable, an<br />
unforgiving union of two cement slabs.<br />
Behind it stands a tall shard of limestone<br />
with a copper plaque that has gone green<br />
with age. What I wanted to do that summer<br />
was quite simple: to read a particular book<br />
sitting on that bench near that monument.<br />
So there I sat, water bottle beside me, book<br />
in my lap.<br />
Being the height of the Côte d’Azur’s<br />
season, the sun scorched in its late<br />
morning sky. As I tried to enjoy the<br />
experience I’d longed to savour, I only<br />
wanted to dive into the neighbouring<br />
restaurant and continue reading under an<br />
umbrella, cold drink in hand. But I couldn’t<br />
do that. They’d suffered here on l’Ilette<br />
peninsula. I should, too.<br />
I squinted through sunglasses as the sun<br />
bounced off the pages. Duel of Wits by<br />
Peter Churchill. I’d found a beaten-up copy<br />
through a community college in Indiana.<br />
When the book arrived in Toronto, I packed<br />
it away for our summer in Antibes.<br />
Flipping the pages brought forth the<br />
familiar, musty-paper smell of my youth. It<br />
beckoned me into a bygone world.<br />
Churchill dedicated his work to Arnaud –<br />
code name for Captain Alec Rabinowitch, a<br />
radio operator who died in his pursuits.<br />
These writings, the author explained,<br />
covered four secret missions into wartime<br />
France. He’d entered twice by submarine<br />
and twice by parachute between July 1941<br />
and April 1943.
I skipped to the biographical index at the<br />
back – anything to avoid the hard work of<br />
the inside pages in that blazing light. I<br />
recognized some names from my research:<br />
Julien (Captain I Newman) – captured and<br />
executed.<br />
Louis of Antibes – Did I recognize this<br />
name? Or was it “Antibes” that sprang<br />
from the page? – captured and died on an<br />
evacuation march from a concentration<br />
camp.<br />
Matthieu (Captain Edward Zeff) – captured<br />
and survived.<br />
Taylor, Lt-Cdr “Buck” – commanded his<br />
own submarine. Survived.<br />
Vigerie, Baron d’Astier de la – never<br />
captured.<br />
They were characters in a story I’d found<br />
online, translated into French. Across a<br />
wide ocean, with Toronto’s thermometer<br />
lingering well below freezing, it had read<br />
like a thriller. A British submarine, the H.M.<br />
S. Unbroken, had entered the Baie de la<br />
Salis – the very bay beneath me – one<br />
night in April 1942. In charge of the<br />
operation was the book’s author, a member<br />
of the British Special Operations Executive.<br />
Churchill rowed ashore in the pitch night<br />
and climbed steps that led up l’Ilette<br />
peninsula – landing there, right there, on<br />
the ground beneath my bench. If someone<br />
had lingered that night on the terrace of our<br />
Bellevue, they would’ve witnessed the<br />
landing in its moving shadows.<br />
Churchill’s mission was to deliver two radio<br />
sets and two radio operators (Matthieu and<br />
Julien) to the home of Dr Elie Lévy, a<br />
kingpin of Antibes’ Résistance movement<br />
who lived three blocks inland on Avenue<br />
Foch. Under the cover of night, Churchill<br />
navigated the streets alone, locating Lévy’s<br />
house before returning for his colleagues<br />
and supplies. Then, already clutched by<br />
adrenaline, the secret agent ran into Lévy<br />
himself on l’Ilette peninsula. With him was<br />
Baron d’Astier de la Vigerie, a diplomat<br />
who became a last-minute addition to<br />
Churchill’s passenger roster as the<br />
submarine departed the bay beneath<br />
Bellevue.
So that’s what I would recreate: a living<br />
history of Antibes through the allegorical<br />
eyes of Bellevue. All summer long, Antibes<br />
revealed herself to me on two levels, past<br />
and present. Plaques, monuments and<br />
street signs – timeworn tributes that had<br />
faded into everyday life over the years we’d<br />
been coming here – shared their stories.<br />
And there, mounted above a lighting shop<br />
three blocks up Avenue Foch, the trunk<br />
road I’d taken more than a hundred times,<br />
was an unassuming marble plaque: Here<br />
lived Dr. Elie Victor Amedee Lévy, Captain;<br />
arrested May 4, 1942; died in deportation to<br />
Auschwitz; hero and martyr of the<br />
Résistance; died for France.<br />
That was the story I wanted to read in<br />
English, right there on l’Ilette peninsula. A<br />
fat drop of sweat ran down my calf and<br />
deposited itself on my ankle. Skimming<br />
was the only way. I flipped to the book’s<br />
midsection and hunched over its yellowed<br />
pages. A breeze kicked up. Instant airconditioning.<br />
I was doing the right thing.<br />
Some would say I’d been behaving oddly<br />
all summer. I biked around town with one<br />
eye on the road and the other scouring<br />
second-floor facades of buildings where<br />
plaques might appear. Friends began<br />
calling me a history-buff. Really? History<br />
was never, ever my thing. It always seemed<br />
a jumble of useless dates and wars –<br />
except, of course, when my grandmother<br />
told vibrant stories about the wagon train<br />
bringing my ancestors from Pennsylvania<br />
to Iowa.<br />
History only mattered to me when there<br />
was a story behind it. History was<br />
interesting only when it was alive.<br />
The story endured.<br />
As I continued to read on l’Ilette peninsula,<br />
I realized I’d forgotten the story’s details –<br />
even important ones. I’d forgotten, for<br />
instance, how Churchill’s surprise<br />
encounter with Lévy had begun.<br />
On that dark night in April 1942, while they<br />
huddled in the darkness of their<br />
clandestine work, Lévy launched a<br />
question to Churchill – before even<br />
bothering to introduce the diplomat<br />
loitering alongside them.<br />
Where, the doctor wondered, were the<br />
faked baptismal certificates for his two<br />
daughters? Churchill had promised these<br />
papers so that Lévy, a Jew, could avoid<br />
having his house – purchased in his<br />
daughters’ names – confiscated by the<br />
Germans.<br />
My cheeks were burning. The water bottle<br />
was almost dry. I’d continue reading<br />
elsewhere. But before leaving that eventful<br />
site, I lingered before the copper-green<br />
plaque. It was written in English and<br />
French, but as with so many translations,<br />
the two halves offered different<br />
information.
\the monument commemorated the<br />
landing of the H.M.S. Unbroken submarine,<br />
under Captain Peter Churchill, on April 21,<br />
1942, and all those who took part in the<br />
operation. It was presented to Major<br />
Camille Rayon (another major Résistance<br />
player) by Lieutenant-Commander C.W.<br />
Buck Taylor (who steered the submarine<br />
that night) on May 23, 1992.<br />
The last line caught my eye. It spanned the<br />
centerline of the plaque, occupying both<br />
the English and French sides, and<br />
protruded from the stone’s face:<br />
En hommage au Docteur ELIE LEVY<br />
(LOUIS) qui dirigea cette operation, et<br />
mourut en Déportation<br />
directed this operation and died in<br />
deportation.<br />
I’d learned the story of the H.M.S. Unbroken<br />
through the eyes of Peter Churchill, a<br />
British secret service agent. But the<br />
collective memory of the local people<br />
filtered through a different lens. It was Lévy,<br />
an Antibois, who was the heart of this<br />
mission, not Churchill.<br />
There’s a whole other world occupying the<br />
sunny Côte d’Azur. It lives invisibly<br />
alongside the sandy beaches and glitzy<br />
shops. And it’s breathing, shallowly,<br />
appearing only to those who seek it.<br />
Jemma Hélène is the author of French<br />
Lessons Blog: www.frenchlessonsblog.com<br />
In tribute to Dr Elie Lévy (Louis), who
A family pilgrimage to the<br />
Somme by Doug Goodman<br />
In September 1916 High Wood in Picardy<br />
was a vision of tree stumps and mud – a<br />
deathly landscape. It was here on the<br />
morning of <strong>15</strong> September that a boy<br />
soldier from Wandsworth, London fell in<br />
the battle to take the Wood. Bertram Alec<br />
Reader – known as Alec – was the eldest of<br />
5 children. In the summer of 19<strong>15</strong>, at the<br />
age of 17, he made a trip to Somerset<br />
House, London, and joined the <strong>15</strong>th<br />
Battalion London Regiment, Prince of<br />
Wales’ Own, Civil Service Rifles (CSR).<br />
Having passed the medical inspection he<br />
left as Private B. A. Reader 3623. In March<br />
1916 Alec sailed for France.<br />
All of Alec’s letters home survive and his<br />
story has been pieced together by his<br />
nephew Roger Goodman who, along with<br />
his brother Doug, traced Alec’s life on the<br />
Somme. After making all their research<br />
available to historians through the archives<br />
at The Imperial War Museum, Alec's story<br />
has featured in several books. Through one<br />
of these books contact was made by the<br />
son of a private soldier, Vern Wilkinson,<br />
who served alongside Alec. He had read a<br />
book featuring Alec and remembered<br />
seeing the name in his father's wartime<br />
diary. Alec's family had always known the<br />
time and place where he died but not how.<br />
In his diary Vern wrote:<br />
‘We were happy when we knew definitely<br />
what time the ‘kick off’ was, uncertainty<br />
made one nervous and irritable. We<br />
attempted a little breakfast in the early<br />
hours but the jam tasted of paraffin so we<br />
gave it up. A substantial rum ration<br />
however soon satisfied us, there was<br />
actually some rum to spare as some of the<br />
lads would not participate as they wished<br />
to have all their senses about them when<br />
the great time came. Others were quite<br />
merry and personally I had consumed<br />
plenty... At last ‘zero’ came (6.20am) and<br />
the guns that had quietened towards the<br />
dawn broke out with a terrible clatter as<br />
they put down one of the terrible barrages<br />
that made advancing much easier for the<br />
infantry. We clambered over the top of the<br />
parapet and were immediately met with a<br />
murderous machine gun fire, some of my<br />
pals falling at once...
INFORMATION<br />
The Somme is about 90<br />
minutes drive from Calais and<br />
DFDS Seaways has daily<br />
crossings from Dover.<br />
The Historial de la Grande<br />
Guerre<br />
Albert Museum<br />
Beaumont Hamel memorial<br />
park<br />
Commonwealth War Graves<br />
Commission<br />
Photos: far left: Doug Goodman; centre left:<br />
family photo shows Alec Reader; top: Doug<br />
and family members lay a weath at Thiepval;<br />
left: Alec Reader with pals.<br />
...Young Reader fell at the side of me with a<br />
groan and blood rushed from a wound in<br />
the head. I just turned to glance at him and<br />
could see that death was instantaneous<br />
and so passed that cheerful spirited lad to<br />
whom everything was ‘very cosy.’’<br />
Alec’s story is a poignant one as he was<br />
waiting to return to England. Those who<br />
had joined as underage (18 was the<br />
minimum age for joining up) could be<br />
reclaimed by their parents and had the<br />
choice of being repatriated. However, Alec’s<br />
father’s request was delayed due to<br />
administrative issues and before Alec<br />
could return home the Battle of Flers-<br />
Courcelette began. Alec was buried near<br />
the north-west corner of High Wood but<br />
due to continued fighting the details of the<br />
place of burial was lost and Alec is listed as<br />
one of the missing of the Somme; his name<br />
appears on the Thiepval monument.<br />
On the morning of <strong>15</strong> September 2016, 100<br />
years to the day he died, Alec’s family and<br />
two researchers made a pilgrimage to High<br />
Wood where they laid a wreath on the 47th<br />
(London) Division Memorial. They held a<br />
private ceremony before joining a memorial<br />
service at the Thiepval monument where<br />
three generations of the Goodman family,<br />
Doug, his nephew Paul and great-nephew<br />
Charles laid a wreath on behalf of Alec’s<br />
family. "This ‘cheerful spirited lad, to whom<br />
everything was very cosy’ will never be<br />
forgotten and his short life will continue to<br />
be remembered for generations to come"<br />
said Doug Goodman.<br />
High Wood as returned to its natural state<br />
and it's estimated that the remains of<br />
several thousand British and German<br />
troops are still there as the area was never<br />
cleared of munitions. In total around 8000<br />
deaths occurred in the square km. of private<br />
wood during the Somme Battle that lasted<br />
from July to <strong>No</strong>vember 1916. High Wood was<br />
the scene of the last cavalry charge and the<br />
first tank attack.
BOOK GIV<br />
But you are in France Madame by<br />
Catherine Berry<br />
Catherine Berry, her husband and three<br />
children unzipped and discarded their<br />
comfortable Australian lifestyle and<br />
slipped on life in the country of haute<br />
couture. On arrival, there was no<br />
celebrity designer waiting ready to pin<br />
and fit their new life to them. So, they<br />
threw it on and wore it loosely, tightly,<br />
uncomfortably, any old how—until they<br />
learned for themselves how to trim,<br />
hem and stitch à la française. This book<br />
is testament to the joyous, but not<br />
always easy, journey that they took<br />
along the way.<br />
Read our review<br />
CLICK ON THE PICTURES TO ENTER THE DRAWS<br />
Uncorked by Paul Shore<br />
Celebrating the “uncorking” of a few<br />
tightly held traditions that are near<br />
and dear to hearts of the locals of the<br />
Cote d’Azur and Provence. Like being<br />
taught to play pétanque (boules)<br />
under the clandestine cover of<br />
darkness; drinking pastis before<br />
noon; navigating narrow village<br />
roads at top driving speed. Shore<br />
also “uncorks” personal awakenings<br />
about the value of following roadsless-travelled<br />
and making time to<br />
smell-the-roses, as we cultivate<br />
friendships and traditions. And,<br />
through exposure to the life of artist<br />
Marc Chagall, Shore reflects on the<br />
challenges that all newcomers face<br />
to gain acceptance in a foreign land.<br />
Read our review
E AWAYS<br />
See over the page for more great give aways<br />
including some delish rose wine!<br />
Chateau for Sale by Carrie Parker<br />
Can someone really be in love with<br />
two people at the same time? Kate<br />
thinks so when she falls for Nick.<br />
But inevitably she has to choose.<br />
Escaping to Nick’s château in<br />
southern France seems like the<br />
answer. The betrayal of her beloved<br />
husband, Alastair, leaves Kate<br />
racked with guilt, but things are<br />
only going to get worse. She neveer<br />
imagined how fiercely loyal<br />
Alastair’s best friend, Richard,<br />
would prove to be, nor the dire<br />
consequences of his loyalty.<br />
Instead of the new start that she’d<br />
hoped for, Kate’s life at the château<br />
descends into a nightmare, taking<br />
her to the brink of despair,and<br />
when you’re desperate you’ll do<br />
anything...<br />
Read our review<br />
Leonardo da Vinci: The Amboise<br />
Connection by Pamela Shields<br />
A fascinating book about one of<br />
the greatest men who ever lived. he<br />
lived in the Loire Valley as the<br />
guest of a king at the end of his life.<br />
He was a tourist attraction then,<br />
and still is. The book is full of<br />
interesting facts and anecdotes<br />
about Leonardo's time in the<br />
Chateau de Clos Lucé in Amboise -<br />
a must read for all Da Vinci fans<br />
and visitors to this lovely part of<br />
France.<br />
Read our review<br />
French for Divorce by Carys Evans<br />
British Catherine and French Jacques live<br />
the good life in France until Jacques starts<br />
fraternising with a colleague and Catherine<br />
realises all is not equal in love and war.<br />
Facing her own personal Brexit, Catherine<br />
becomes a character in her very own<br />
surreal adventures, to the backdrop of chic<br />
restaurants, chalets and chateaux. The<br />
couple’s colourful allies of French<br />
gendarmes, champagne-guzzling best<br />
friends, improbable lovers and a charmingly<br />
chauvinistic father-in-law accompany them<br />
down their road to disunion or reunification<br />
in a country that gives infidelity the<br />
Presidential seal of approval.<br />
Read our review
MORE FAB GIVE AWAYS!<br />
Winetastic give away of award winning delicious rosé<br />
wine from MIRABEAU Provence<br />
Our wine making friends at Mirabeau in<br />
Provence are feeling generous! They have<br />
two cases of 6 bottles of their award<br />
winning Classic rosé to give away. With<br />
its delectable raspberry pink hues and<br />
intense aromas, expressive red berry fruit<br />
remain the essence of this delectable<br />
rose'. Mirabeau Classic has a beautiful<br />
concentration, with strawberry and<br />
raspberry flavours taking centre stage,<br />
balanced by fresh acidity and leading to a<br />
sumptuous finish with notes of redcurrant.<br />
A perfect aperitif for an alfresco<br />
moment, it’s also great with flavoursome<br />
food, or drink it as they do in Provence,<br />
anytime and with almost anything! Just<br />
click on their website & subscribe to their<br />
newsletter to go in the draw:<br />
Two winners will each win a case of 6 bottles of Classic.<br />
Just nip onto Mirabeau’s website here & sign up to their newsletter to enter the contest<br />
which will end 30 June 2017.<br />
Legendary actress Brigitte Bardot led fashion revolutions<br />
throughout her career; this retrospective includes BB’s<br />
comments on her iconic style in a rare, intimate interview.<br />
Brigitte Bardot is a style icon whose legacy has undeniably<br />
shaped the face of fashion as we know it. In photographs<br />
that capture her attending prestigious receptions or on<br />
glamorous visits to the United States, in fashion shoots<br />
and on film sets, this volume illustrates all the key looks<br />
that BB wore and brought to the international spotlight as<br />
she invented and edited her own highly imitated style.<br />
With personal comments on the photos, Bardot explains<br />
the context of the often vanguard fashions she wore,<br />
making headlines wherever she went. A must for BB and<br />
fashion fans...<br />
Draw ends: 28 July 2017
And it always will be...
A French town without a baker - it's<br />
unthinkable - everyone would move away!<br />
A butcher is almost as important to French<br />
village life as a baker. The butcher sells the<br />
usual roasts and chops and chickens, as<br />
well as a variety of prepared foods.<br />
My wife Val and I live part of the year in St.-<br />
Rémy-de-Provence, a charming town<br />
between Arles and Avignon. We love going<br />
to our favorite butcher shop, a place that<br />
has been serving the good people of St.-<br />
Rémy for decades. It's run by a husband<br />
and wife who take great care in the quality<br />
of their products and service. When you<br />
order a piece of meat, the butcher will ask<br />
you how you plan to prepare it. Then he will<br />
slice off any extra fat, trim around the bone<br />
and cut it into the size you want. If you<br />
want hamburger, he will take a piece of<br />
beef, run it through his grinder and form it<br />
for you. Burger by burger.<br />
The butcher takes the time to chat with<br />
every customer - waiting in line is like<br />
having a free French lesson. How is the<br />
family? Are your bunions bothering you?<br />
How will you prepare the stew? For how<br />
many people? Do you salt your food? This<br />
usually prompts a general discussion on<br />
salt. It’s like watching a French sitcom.<br />
Sometimes the phone rings and the<br />
butcher answers it – it’s usually an order for<br />
a big meal. This leads to a long discussion<br />
between the person on the phone and the<br />
butcher and his wife. How many people do<br />
they need to feed? What spices will they<br />
use? Should they pick it up at 11:00? <strong>No</strong>,<br />
maybe 12:00. <strong>No</strong>, 11:00 would be better.<br />
Okay, they’ll come at 12:00.<br />
Once we went to the butcher to get a gigot<br />
d'agneau (leg of lamb.) We were having<br />
some friends over and figured a gigot<br />
would be easy to make in advance and<br />
would feed a large group.<br />
We explained what we wanted. For how<br />
many people, the butcher asked. Ah, the<br />
gigot in my cabinet is not large enough for<br />
your dinner for ten, he said.<br />
So off he went to the back to get a larger<br />
one. He appeared two minutes later<br />
carrying the entire back half of a lamb. Oh,<br />
my. But at least the wool had been<br />
removed.<br />
This doesn’t happen where we live in<br />
California.
He prepared the meat deftly and then<br />
came the cooking discussion. How were<br />
we preparing it? Our marinade met with<br />
his approval, but under no circumstances<br />
were we to use a temperature higher<br />
than 180 degrees Celsius. The butcher<br />
looked at us gravely to make sure we<br />
understood this important point.<br />
And did we want the bones he had just<br />
removed? We should place them next to<br />
the lamb, cover them with some olive oil<br />
and butter, and add a full head of garlic,<br />
herbes de Provence, and salt. It would<br />
make a nice jus for the meat. This kind<br />
of advice is common in France.<br />
If you are in a rush and go to a French<br />
butcher be preapred to be there for at<br />
least a half an hour. But if you do, the<br />
food will be delicious and the floorshow<br />
can’t be beat...<br />
Keith Van Sickle is the author of One Sip<br />
at a time: Learning to live in Provence
The Good Life in ....<br />
the gers<br />
When British artist Perry Taylor and his<br />
Dutch wife Caroline moved to rural<br />
Gascony, south west France, one of the<br />
things they were really looking forward to,<br />
apart from the gorgeous countryside,<br />
fabulous cuisine and wines and laidback<br />
lifestyle… was keeping chickens.<br />
“We live in a 250 year-old farmhouse and<br />
in the past it’s been home to cows, pigs,<br />
rabbits and various animals. We keep just<br />
chickens though. Having them around<br />
makes for a homely feeling, bringing the<br />
courtyard and garden to life. We started<br />
with the Light Sussex and over time we've<br />
had a real hotchpotch of blacks, greys,<br />
browns and speckled egg layers. They’re<br />
always on the look-out for something to<br />
eat, they follow you around, especially<br />
when working in the garden, waiting for<br />
some grub or worm to be thrown to them”.”<br />
says Caroline.<br />
<strong>No</strong>t only do the couple enjoy the eggs from<br />
the chickens but there are other benefits<br />
too - Perry, an artist, found that the<br />
chickens were a rich source of inspiration<br />
for his quirky drawings.<br />
“There’s Queeny – she’s really bossy and<br />
Cinderella, she’s at the bottom of the<br />
pecking order… they all have different<br />
personalities and we love them all. Little<br />
Cilla Black became a favourite when she<br />
and Floppy (light Sussex) were the sole<br />
survivors of a fox's visit. They became<br />
inseparable, so when Floppy died, we got a<br />
new batch of different breeds. Cilla<br />
immediately went from underdog to queen<br />
bitch and pecked them all into order, except<br />
a white one that looks like Floppy. These<br />
two firm friends now take the highest perch<br />
in the coop, along with Rusty, a cockerel”.
Top right: Perry and Caroline; above:<br />
"Jeu de Poules"; right: black chicks<br />
Perry loves to sit and observe the<br />
chickens going about their daily lives<br />
and sometimes that creates the basis<br />
for a drawing idea.<br />
Caroline says “We were once playing<br />
boules and when we threw the 'pois', a<br />
couple of chickens came running after<br />
it, probably thinking it was food. Perry’s<br />
drawing 'Jeu de Poules’ came from this”.<br />
Perry recalls seeing four chickens and<br />
Rusty the cockerel all cleaning<br />
themselves under their wings and tails<br />
and for one magic moment, none of<br />
their heads were visible, which gave rise<br />
to his painting titled ‘Headless<br />
Chickens'.<br />
Caroline explains how another favourite<br />
came about “Our neighbour has black<br />
Gascon chickens. One day one got<br />
loose and came over to inspect our<br />
Light Sussex. Perry wondered what<br />
would come out if they bred. His 'Black<br />
chicks' drawing was the result”!
Over the last few years Perry has become<br />
quite a celebrity in Gascony as his witty<br />
and whimsical paintings have truly<br />
captured the charm and authentic spirit of<br />
French rural life.<br />
Popular in France, Britain and with<br />
Francophiles around the world, his first<br />
book ‘Petites Gasconneries’ featuring<br />
some of his most popular chicken<br />
drawings was a sell-out. His just published<br />
new book ‘Bon Moments’ went the same<br />
way.<br />
Perry says of his birds “their curiosity and<br />
mannerisms are fun to watch and when<br />
they get used to you, they like to be in your<br />
company. Ours like nothing more than<br />
nestling down or preening right next to us,<br />
which really does give us a feeling of wellbeing.”<br />
<strong>No</strong>t many people have a chicken as a muse<br />
but for artist Perry Taylor it works well!<br />
Website: perrytaylor.fr
FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN THE GERS<br />
Local property agent Julia Grange says "Gers is often described as the Tuscany of France;<br />
others have compared it to Devon. It is a very rural, agricultural area, with fresh, clean air<br />
as there is no polluting industry. It produces some excellent wines such as Madiran<br />
(scientifically proven to be the best red wine for your health), and is world-famous for its<br />
Armagnac. There are lots of pretty bastide towns, one of which, Larressingle, is known as<br />
a mini-Carcassonne. I live in the west of the Gers. From here I can be surfing or swimming<br />
on the Atlantic coast in 1h30, winter skiing in Cauterets in 1h30, and in Spain in 2h.<br />
There are lots of walking groups and cycling groups and for sports fans, rugby is very<br />
popular here. There are also several golf courses. In summer, the world famous Jazz<br />
festival in Marciac is very popular with many big-name stars appearing. The nearest<br />
airport with UK links is Tarbes-Lourdes (Ryanair), but there is also Toulouse, Bordeaux<br />
and Biarritz." There are a few of Julia's top property picks for the Gers:<br />
This village home in Fusterouau is renovated<br />
and with its small garden would be an ideal<br />
second home. Only 8km to the popular<br />
market village of Aignan and 133km to<br />
Toulouse airport.<br />
Click here for more details<br />
€169,000<br />
A beautiful 5-bedroom home in Maupas, ready<br />
to move into. South-facing to capture the sun,<br />
with views of the Pyrenees, 5 minutes to the<br />
nearest shops, and less than 2h to the airports<br />
of Toulouse and Bordeaux<br />
Click here for more details<br />
€299,995<br />
€874 500<br />
Set in a lovely location in Couloume<br />
Mondebat, a beautiful big property with<br />
business potential. 3 Stables, separate gite<br />
and 13 ha of land with fabulous bviews to the<br />
Pyrenees.<br />
Click here for more details<br />
Click here to see Julia's portfolio of gorgeous properties in the Gers
The Good life in...<br />
Riberac
We talk to British expat Linda James who with her Husband Alex runs Le Pommier<br />
gites and a cake making business in Riberac, Dordogne department, Aquitaine,<br />
south west France.<br />
What inspired you to move to<br />
Riberac?<br />
I originally came here on holidays with my<br />
family in the 1980s as my cousin and her<br />
husband moved here with their three<br />
children. I fell in love with the sunny<br />
weather, the stunning countryside, being<br />
able to swim in rivers and lakes, the<br />
beautiful villages, markets, fêtes and the<br />
food.<br />
Although my cousins moved back to the<br />
UK for a short while, they couldn’t keep<br />
away and returned to France. There are<br />
now four generations of our family here as<br />
my aunt moved over just before us. She<br />
was 91 a couple of weeks ago! We<br />
searched a much wider area for our<br />
property but decided we might as well be<br />
close enough to pop round for coffee, or<br />
meet up at the market. And after some<br />
property viewings further down in the<br />
Dordogne, we decided we liked it better<br />
here.<br />
Tell us about your gites and cake<br />
business<br />
Our property consists of a three bedroom<br />
house, one bedroom apartment and two<br />
bedroom gite. The gite is popular through<br />
the whole season as its a comfy space for<br />
couples as well as the families who come in<br />
the school holidays. The house is bright<br />
and spacious with a new bathroom that<br />
gets the response ‘wow!’ from guest. The<br />
large stone terrace overlooking the pool<br />
and garden and countryside are perfect for<br />
aperos and the spectacular sunsets we get.<br />
We’ve also launched a cake business. The<br />
idea started when I made cupcakes for a<br />
wedding last year, then a café in Ribérac<br />
needed cakes to serve with tea and coffee.<br />
Coffee and Walnut cake is really popular.<br />
We have several walnut trees and shelling<br />
them is a time-consuming process so I<br />
often do it in the evening while watching<br />
telly! I’m beginning to take orders for
Tell us about your house<br />
The buildings are 18th century farm<br />
workers cottages linked by a large barn,<br />
forming an L-shape. We have a lovely<br />
stone well attached to our house and the<br />
grounds are made up of pretty gardens, a<br />
small orchard and a bigger garden with<br />
swimming pool and walnut trees. It’s<br />
typical for the area.<br />
We found it via an estate agent on our<br />
High Street in Portishead that listed<br />
Leggett Immobilier properties. They set<br />
us up with viewings.<br />
My dream was to run gites but it felt like<br />
the timing wasn’t right when I first<br />
started looking so I went back to my job.<br />
It got to the stage where I felt I could<br />
couldn’t stand waiting any longer so I<br />
gave in my notice and left at Christmas in<br />
2013. We jumped in our campervan in the<br />
February and I said “we’re not coming<br />
home until we find our house in France”.<br />
Penny (our agent at Leggett Immobilier)<br />
took us to see six properties a day, then<br />
persuaded us to see one we had thought<br />
was too small.<br />
It was a beautiful sunny day and we<br />
walked into the gite and I said “I think<br />
this it!” That was mid-February. We<br />
moved in at the beginning of June. We<br />
also found a house 10 minutes away in<br />
village square for my in-laws.<br />
We had our first gite guests less than two<br />
weeks after we moved in!<br />
We didn’t have to do major work as it<br />
was beautifully renovated with lovely old<br />
beams but we updated bathrooms and<br />
wood burners and gave everything a<br />
fresh coat of paint and generally<br />
redecorated. We replaced a wooden<br />
terrace with a grand stone one. Our<br />
French neighbour calls it the Acropolis!
How have you found running a business<br />
in France?<br />
It was challenging at first as we didn’t know<br />
how to get set up as non-retirees, we had to<br />
have a business to get into the health system<br />
for instance. There is a local online network<br />
called the Dronne Valley Network, The<br />
Franco British Chamber of Commerce and<br />
Industry advertised their services through it,<br />
and we went to see them. They guided us<br />
through the set up process. They also do a<br />
monthly informal social gathering for people<br />
to exchange experiences and information.<br />
What tip would you give anyone<br />
following in your footsteps?<br />
This is a difficult one! We took a leap of faith<br />
really – and underestimated how much<br />
money we’d spend getting everything sorted,<br />
and how challenging it would be to earn<br />
enough money. We know a couple of people<br />
who’ve managed to retain jobs in the UK–<br />
they work remotely from here and go back<br />
once a month for face to face meetings. A<br />
reliable income helps enormously.<br />
What do you love about your area?<br />
We’re living in beautiful countryside and have<br />
plenty of places to visit within a short<br />
distance. The people are friendly and there’s<br />
lots going on – vide-greniers and brocante<br />
markets, music, art exhibitions. We absolutely<br />
love the fact that we can be outside more<br />
because the weather is so good... and having<br />
a swimming pool!<br />
Sharing our lovely space with holiday guests<br />
is a real bonus and we love to make new<br />
friends. The quiet roads and lack of traffic is<br />
brilliant.<br />
Website: Le Pommier Gites, Riberac<br />
Wine.<br />
Cheese.<br />
See over for what to see/do in Riberac and<br />
fabulous properties in the area...
5 things to see around Riberac<br />
1. Brantome (above)<br />
One of the most visited towns in the area thanks to its gorgeous good looks. A stunning<br />
abbey, a riverside setting that looks like a painting come to life and a pretty town that's<br />
perfect for wandering and sitting at a cafe watching the world go by. The Abbey’s Church<br />
belfry, built into the rock, is said to be the oldest in France dating to the 11th century.<br />
Tip: Behind the Abbey are caves which go back to the 8th century and one of them<br />
contains a depiction of the “Last Judgement” from the <strong>15</strong>th century – well worth a look.<br />
2. Aubeterre sur Dronne<br />
A beautiful village with a spectacular monolithic church carved out of the rock. Do the<br />
tour because you can only appreciate it from the inside. The village is arranged around a<br />
lovely square with shops and restaurants but do explore the roads around the square to<br />
discover the second church and other businesses. At the bottom of the hill there is a<br />
sandy beach and river swimming.<br />
3. Riberac<br />
Have a wander around to<br />
discover a variety of small<br />
shops, café/bars and<br />
restaurants. The Office de<br />
Tourisme has plenty of<br />
local information. On<br />
Friday Riberac hosts the<br />
biggest market in the area.<br />
4. Verteillac<br />
A village with cafes and<br />
restaurants, but if<br />
you’re here on the first<br />
Sunday of the month<br />
there is a large<br />
Brocante (antique)<br />
market.<br />
5. Perigueux<br />
A city with a maze of<br />
medieval lanes lined with<br />
shops opening into squares<br />
with restaurants. The<br />
cathedral is stunning (walk<br />
down to the river for the<br />
best view) and is illuminated<br />
after dark.
FIND YOUR DREAM HOME IN THE RIBERAC AREA<br />
We talk to Penny Armstrong, the local agent who helped Linda and Alex James to find<br />
their ideal property in Riberac: "Having bought our property here over 30 years ago, I<br />
know the region well. The Dronne Valley has so much to offer. Stunning scenery,<br />
tranquility, plenty of outdoor activities, yet not isolated, with beautiful towns and villages<br />
close by. In this area communities mingle together, French, British and many other<br />
nationalities in a friendly and helpful way..."<br />
€146,000<br />
Charming 2 bedroomed character cottage set<br />
in the heart of Montagrier, a beautiful village,<br />
walking distance to bar, restaurant and<br />
epicerie with "depot de pain". Tucked away<br />
and offering large covered terrace leading to<br />
plunge pool and garden.<br />
Click here for more details<br />
Situated on the outskirts of Riberac, this is a<br />
lovely Perigordine house with four bedrooms and<br />
two covered terraces. The family sized<br />
accommodation is light, airy and spacious. It has<br />
a summer house in the garden. Garaging for<br />
three cars, tool-shed and workshop. A generous<br />
sized property, all in excellent order. Recently<br />
reduced from €328,600 to €235,400.<br />
Click here for more details<br />
€235,400<br />
€285,000<br />
This property has been lovingly cared for and is<br />
spacious light and airy. With 4 bedrooms, 3<br />
bathrooms, a 2 bedroomed gite, garage, large<br />
shed, pool and wonderful views it has a great deal<br />
to offer in versatile accommodation. Close<br />
proximity to Riberac with all amenities yet set in<br />
lovely countryside, this property is HIGHLY<br />
RECOMMENDED. Recently reduced from<br />
€3<strong>15</strong>,000 to €285,000<br />
Click here for more details<br />
Click here to see Penny's portfolio of fabulous properties in Riberac
ask the experts<br />
If you have a question about finance, law, currency, banking, property, satellite<br />
services or any other aspect of living in France, you can email it to us here and we'll<br />
put it to our panel of experts and try to help you.<br />
Question: I've been told that there have been changes to Pension legislation that<br />
might affect British expats in France - can you explain what it's all<br />
about?<br />
Answer: from Jennie Poate at Beacon Global Wealth<br />
In 2017 there have been a raft of changes<br />
to the international pension scene, forcing<br />
financial advisers to dramatically rethink<br />
the way they plan for their clients.<br />
One hugely significant change affecting<br />
the Qualifying Recognised Overseas<br />
Pension Schemes (QROPS)* market came<br />
in April. HM Revenue & Customs updated<br />
its list of these international pension<br />
products after a temporary suspension.<br />
The result was that nine countries fell off of<br />
HMRC’s list completely when it was<br />
republished.<br />
The suspension followed a shock<br />
announcement by UK chancellor Philip<br />
Hammond to impose a 25% charge on<br />
pension transfers outside of the EAA** if<br />
the ‘QROPS’ destination is not the same<br />
country in which the retiree is living.<br />
This list is due to be suspended and<br />
republished in June 2017.<br />
To be clear, this does not affect (currently)<br />
those who live and have their pensions in<br />
the EAA. So for those living and paying tax<br />
in France who have a pension in the UK,<br />
you will remain unaffected.<br />
For those planning to live and pay tax in<br />
France going forward there is currently no<br />
change. One would assume that the UK will<br />
be part of the EAA in some shape or form<br />
going forward but of course we can only<br />
deal with the here and now.<br />
This makes uncertain times for those<br />
looking to move their UK pensions into<br />
something more international and flexible.<br />
Beacon Global Wealth Management are<br />
treating these concerns seriously, and as<br />
with all of our advice we obtain full<br />
information from the client and the pension<br />
scheme before providing any advice which<br />
as a minimum comes in two stages.<br />
See over for more info and * **
We only use jurisdictions for pension<br />
transfers that are within HMRC regulation<br />
and in the best interest of the client to<br />
move their pension with a full explanation<br />
of the options, advantages and<br />
disadvantages.<br />
The current pension regulation still<br />
provides a marvellous opportunity for<br />
people to take control of their funds inside<br />
their pensions and have more flexibility for<br />
income and cash.<br />
It’s quite a complex subject but to try and<br />
explain it without taking up too much<br />
space, currently with UK providers, the only<br />
option is to have an annuity. These are<br />
based on interest rates and longevity, the<br />
former being very low.<br />
Once you have exchanged your pension<br />
pot for an annuity you can’t change your<br />
mind and it is fixed for life. <strong>No</strong>wadays<br />
people want more flexibility and choice<br />
which would include the choice of when to<br />
take income, how much and for how long<br />
and to pass the residual balance to their<br />
loved ones.<br />
Please do contact me if you’d like<br />
obligation free information or just a chat.<br />
Question: I have about £100,000 lump sum from my pension in the UK. When I<br />
move to France I wonder if there is a savings account or vehicle that I can put my<br />
money in that will pay me interest?<br />
Answer: Jennie Poate Beacon Global Wealth<br />
As a UK tax resident, you can draw 25%<br />
PCLS or Pension Commencement Lump<br />
sum tax free.<br />
However as a French resident you have an<br />
obligation to declare the income and pay<br />
tax on it. There are several ways this can be<br />
taxed but the usual is that a 7.5% fixed rate<br />
tax would be levied plus a now new 7.1%<br />
CSG or ‘social charge. So if you move to<br />
France before you effect the drawdown, on<br />
that basis, already £14,600 is payable in<br />
tax. There are other ways this can be paid<br />
so check with your accountant or adviser<br />
as to the best route.<br />
It would be prudent to keep some funds in<br />
an ‘emergency’ account running alongside<br />
your current account so that if for instance<br />
the boiler breaks down you have instant<br />
access to funds.<br />
* A Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme, or QROPS, is an overseas pension scheme<br />
that meets certain requirements set by Her Majesty's Revenue and Customs (HMRC). A QROPS<br />
must have a beneficial owner and trustees, and it can receive transfers of UK Pension Benefits.<br />
**The European Economic Area (EEA) is the area in which the Agreement on the EEA provides for<br />
the free movement of persons, goods, services and capital within the European Single Market, as<br />
well as the freedom to choose residence in any country within this area. The EEA was established<br />
on 1 January 1994 upon entry into force of the EEA Agreement. There is more to it than this but<br />
with the current issue of Brexit ongoing we’ll have to see if there is any change for the UK or not.
There are several tax free bank deposit<br />
accounts; the nearest equivalent being a<br />
cash ISA. The interest rate is a government<br />
set rate currently (June 2017) 0.75%. There<br />
are two types of account and you can hold<br />
them both:<br />
Livret A:<br />
in which you can place a maximum of<br />
€22,950 per person plus accrued interest<br />
Livret de Développement Durable:<br />
In which you can place a maximum<br />
€12,000 per person plus accrued interest.<br />
All banks and the post office offer them.<br />
They aren’t spectacular at giving you<br />
interest but keeping a level of available<br />
cash is always a good idea.<br />
With the remainder of the cash, there are<br />
several things to consider. Do you want<br />
income? If so how much? Do you want a<br />
nest egg?<br />
If you are investing more than €30,000<br />
and are under the age of 70, then the<br />
following option could be considered: A<br />
‘Contrats d’Assurance Vie’ or life<br />
investment policy.<br />
The short version of what is means, is that<br />
it is an open ended investment policy that<br />
can potentially hold multi-currencies and<br />
different types of investment according to<br />
need and the level of risk you want to want<br />
to take.<br />
It has great tax advantages for the<br />
policyholder as well as inheritance benefits.<br />
There is no limit to how much you can<br />
place in one of these vehicles but they<br />
usually require a minimum of £20,000 -<br />
£30,000 and some offer the opportunity<br />
for monthly contributions.<br />
They are often considered an 8 year policy<br />
as the tax benefits ramp up at that stage<br />
but they are generally open ended. Some<br />
companies have a penalty clause for early<br />
closure<br />
Want to know more? Then please do<br />
contact me for more information, there’s no<br />
obligation.<br />
Jennie Poate can be<br />
contacted at:<br />
jennie @<br />
bgwealthmanagement.net<br />
Beacon Global Wealth website:<br />
BGWealth.com<br />
See next page for more questions<br />
The information on these pages is intended only as an introduction only and is not designed to<br />
offer solutions or advice. Beacon Global Wealth Management can accept no responsibility<br />
whatsoever for losses incurred by acting on the information on thiese pages.<br />
The financial advisers trading under Beacon Wealth Management are members of Nexus Global<br />
(IFA Network). Nexus Global is a division within Blacktower Financial Management<br />
(International) Limited (BFMI).All approved individual members of Nexus Global are Appointed<br />
Representatives of BFMI. BFMI is licenced and regulated by the Gibraltar Financial Services<br />
Commission and bound by their rules under licence number FSC00805B
ask the experts<br />
Question<br />
I am an American living half the year in France and the other half in Hawaii. It is not a<br />
bad gig.<br />
I have struggled with my bank account in France. I can access it when in France, but<br />
cannot in the states. It makes it very difficult to verify transfers, bill payments, etc. I<br />
would love to know if anyone else has had better luck.<br />
Also, a comparison of fees would be helpful and services offered. Since I couldn't access<br />
my account from the states, I had no idea my internet bill was not being paid until a<br />
guest said there was no internet connection.<br />
I would find it helpful to know which banks offer an English speaking department or one<br />
that regularly services expats. Online banking in English would be a dream come true.<br />
Is there any way Credit Agricole Britline can help non UK clients?<br />
Answer<br />
Britline Credit Agricole (English language banking for expats in France)<br />
Some banks may “switch off” the online<br />
banking facilities they provide if you are<br />
classed as a non-resident. This may not<br />
always make sense as being a non –<br />
resident is usually when you need this type<br />
of access more than ever . The bank may<br />
decide to do this for security reasons to<br />
protect your account but unfortunately this<br />
can backfire if you are due to receive<br />
electronic statements or simply want to<br />
follow your account.<br />
It is possible to find English speaking<br />
banking services and some banks provide<br />
a website in English. Often these are very<br />
limited and online banking is still not<br />
available in English. Other services<br />
available are English speaking telephone<br />
based teams, for example CA Atlantique<br />
Vendée, Anjou-Maine and Aquitaine.<br />
Sometimes English speaking advisors can<br />
be found in branches eg CA Charente<br />
Perigord.<br />
Up to now the service that provides<br />
everything under one roof from banking,<br />
insurance, mortgage and savings to a<br />
bespoke International Payments Service for<br />
currency exchange, with a team of 40<br />
bilingual and bicultural advisors, is us at CA<br />
Britline.<br />
At CA Britline we have also developed an<br />
app ‘My Britline’ which enables you to have<br />
online banking facilities in English.<br />
If you are fiscally resident in France, the UK<br />
or Ireland, you may be eligible for a CA<br />
Britline account. However if you are a US<br />
resident we would advise you to contact a<br />
"Direct" service of CA, such as www.<br />
normandie-direct.fr<br />
Website for CA Britline:<br />
www.britline.com
Dreaming of moving to France?<br />
Top Tips to help you make the move...<br />
Have you been considering a move to<br />
France but don’t know where to start? We<br />
talk to the experts at Renestance who help<br />
English-speakers to settle in France about<br />
their key tips to help you make a smooth<br />
start...<br />
Dream vividly but not wildly<br />
What are you hoping to find? Blue skies,<br />
time to travel, better social life, lots of<br />
wine? Be specific about how you imagine<br />
your future life in France.<br />
Is part of you expecting life in France to be<br />
better in every way? Be careful of<br />
unrealistic expectations and issues that<br />
follow you wherever you go.<br />
What do the people you’re moving with<br />
dream of? Are your visions compatible?<br />
Measure twice, cut once<br />
Explore the areas that interest you – try to<br />
do some reconnaissance trips.<br />
Match your nesting place to your timeline.<br />
Do you plan to live there year-round<br />
indefinitely, do a two-year sabbatical, or<br />
just stay for summers? If you’re rebuilding<br />
your nest in France permanently, visit<br />
during low season and under the rain, if<br />
possible. Also consider renting before<br />
buying.<br />
Mind your money<br />
Find the best way to exchange currency<br />
and move money across borders.<br />
Expect hurdles setting up your French bank<br />
account (especially if American) – you’ll<br />
need a proof of address in France and a<br />
thick dossier of papers.<br />
Understand the tax implications of earning<br />
and investing money in France.<br />
Find out how your retirement savings will<br />
be impacted by your move.<br />
Get your affairs in order at home<br />
What will you do with your home? Do you<br />
need to plan for trips back to manage<br />
property?<br />
Do you have family or work-related issues<br />
at home that will require your presence?<br />
Go electronic<br />
Even if you keep an address back home,<br />
you’ll need to access all accounts,<br />
statements and records from France.Make<br />
sure you have internet connected in your<br />
new home ASAP.<br />
Choose a provider with free calls to mobiles<br />
and fixed lines back home.<br />
Skype and Facetime are great to see AND<br />
hear them, but it does require good<br />
bandwidth.<br />
Arm yourself for administrative<br />
battles<br />
Are you allowed to work or run a business<br />
in France? Do you already have a job here?<br />
If not, will you find a job you’re qualified for?<br />
Can you work remotely for a non-French<br />
company?
If moving with children, make sure you<br />
know grade level equivalencies, school<br />
start dates (not January as in AUS/NZ!),<br />
and entrance requirements.<br />
Obtain sufficient health coverage in France<br />
(visas for non-EU nationals require it) and<br />
bring your medical records and<br />
prescriptions if you have ongoing issues.<br />
Parlez français<br />
Yes, everyone’s innate language ability is<br />
different.<br />
Yes, you’ve heard about people living in<br />
France for 20 years and getting by with<br />
only English.<br />
But your experience will be more enriching<br />
the more comfortable you are with the<br />
language. And no, there is no easy app or<br />
trick to becoming fluent in French - it takes<br />
hundreds of hours of practice listening,<br />
speaking and reading - but one day you<br />
will succeed!<br />
Make friends with the natives…or<br />
not<br />
Meet and talk to as many people as<br />
possible, even if it’s hard for you. You never<br />
know what you might have in common<br />
with someone, or who will introduce you to<br />
your next best friend. Don’t expect the<br />
French to seek you out and include you in<br />
their social circles right away. They<br />
probably had friends before you arrived<br />
and tend to build friendships at a more<br />
cautious pace.<br />
Pursue your passions and interests. What<br />
better way to find like-minded people and<br />
become part of your community, all while<br />
doing what you love?<br />
Don’t exclude expats for fear of speaking<br />
too much English or not integrating with<br />
locals. <strong>No</strong>t only are expats a wealth of<br />
information when you’re settling in, but<br />
they are often your bridge to meeting<br />
French locals.<br />
Expect to panic<br />
Even if you’ve lived abroad before, are not<br />
crossing several time zones, nor making a<br />
radical change in your lifestyle (just<br />
married, retiring, starting a business…), the<br />
sheer volume of unknowns and differences<br />
will likely overwhelm you at some point.<br />
You will constantly confront cultural<br />
differences. Things take more time to get<br />
done. People are not as smiley/friendly and<br />
aren’t afraid to contradict you. If you’re<br />
coming from outside Europe, everything is<br />
smaller in France. Basically, it can seem like<br />
nothing is easy!<br />
You are no longer in a place where you<br />
master the environment. It can be quite<br />
humbling to be ‘the foreigner.’<br />
Trust yourself<br />
If you’ve followed the tips above, you know<br />
this isn’t just a poorly-planned whim. Have<br />
faith in your vision and your preparation.<br />
Give it time. ‘There’s no place like home,’<br />
and it’s natural to wonder when/if you’ll<br />
ever feel at home in France. One day you<br />
will, and you’ll know because you went<br />
home and found it doesn’t really feel like it<br />
anymore. Then you’ll look forward to going<br />
home to your nest in France.<br />
Renestance can assist you during each<br />
step of the way. Whether you're thinking<br />
about moving, in the planning phase, or<br />
have been in France for a while now and<br />
could use some help with administrative<br />
matters, visit www.renestance.com for more<br />
information.<br />
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free newsletter!
Omelette a la Mère Poulard<br />
Mère Poulard at Mont St Michel makes the most legendary omelette in France. It’s<br />
cooked over an open fire, in a copper pan with a very long handle. Although her recipe is<br />
a well-kept secret, many French chefs claim to know it and there is a plethora of<br />
theories: no whites, whites whipped separately, adding crème fraiche, <strong>No</strong>rmandy butter,<br />
etc etc. But no one really knows! So if you visit Mont Saint Michel, and can afford a €35<br />
omelette, it’s a historic experience.<br />
American Mary Pochez who runs cookery classes at the stunning 18th century Château<br />
de la Barbée in the Loire, shares her take on this classic recipe.<br />
Ingredients for one large omelette<br />
4 eggs<br />
12 cl of crème fraiche<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
40 gr of butter<br />
Optional: Mushrooms, cheese and lardons<br />
1. In a bowl, crack open 2 eggs. Add the<br />
yolks of 2 more, leaving 2 whites aside.<br />
Whip the eggs on low speed for 5 minutes<br />
and add the crème fraiche, beating for<br />
another 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper.<br />
2. Whip the 2 other whites into soft peaks<br />
and fold gently into the rest of the eggs.<br />
3. Melt butter in a non-stick frying pan and<br />
pour egg mixture into the hot pan*. Cook<br />
slowly for about 5 minutes, the surface<br />
should be slightly liquid still – then fold in<br />
half**.<br />
Serve immediately while it’s still hot, with a<br />
green salad and/or fried potatoes.<br />
*If you want to add cheese, sprinkle on top<br />
while cooking.<br />
** Fry mushrooms and lardons and<br />
sprinkled on top before folding<br />
Find more recipes and details for Mary's fabulous cookery courses: www.lavieduchateau.<br />
com/
Eeasy, peasy, lemon squeezy Tarte au Citron...<br />
A lush recipe from Sara Neumeier, inspired by her neighbour Christine in France.<br />
It’s perfect for summer with just five ingredients and no baking!<br />
To adjust the level of sweetness, you can add or subtract from the amount of condensed<br />
milk—it’s pretty fool proof.<br />
Ingredients: Serves 8<br />
8 ounces gingersnap cookies, finely ground<br />
5 ounces unsalted butter, melted<br />
16 ounces mascarpone cheese<br />
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons<br />
Juice of 3 to 4 lemons, depending on desired tartness<br />
2/3 cup sweetened condensed milk (about half a 14-ounce can)<br />
1. In a medium bowl combine gingersnap crumbs and melted butter. Press evenly into<br />
the bottom and sides of a 9-inch tart tin. Set aside.<br />
2. Using a hand-held or standing mixer on low, combine remaining ingredients until<br />
smooth. Pour into reserved crust, smoothing top with a spatula. Refrigerate at least 4<br />
hours or overnight before serving.<br />
That’s it!<br />
Bon appetit!<br />
Sara Neumeier is a New York food stylist who shares a summer cottage in the Dordogne<br />
with her parents.<br />
She and her recipes are featured in the memoir Beginning French by Les Américains
MOULES<br />
Marini res<br />
Chef Spencer Richards from <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
Cooking Days gives a lesson on how to<br />
make the most perfect Moules Marinieres...<br />
Moules Marinières, that oh-so-French dish<br />
that we all love – did you know though that<br />
if you add cream to the stock, it’s called<br />
Moules <strong>No</strong>rmandie?!<br />
So let’s start with a few basics. You will find<br />
great moules at markets in France as well<br />
as in shops. You should be able to find<br />
them at supermarkets and fishmongers in<br />
most towns around the world. They come<br />
in different sizes, personally I prefer the<br />
smallest ones, I find them sweeter and a<br />
stronger colour than the big ones. It takes<br />
longer to eat them, but what’s the hurry?<br />
You have a delicious bottle of chilled<br />
Chablis to drink them with, right?<br />
I like to buy them in the morning and leave<br />
them in cold water for the day to give them<br />
a final wash. You should discard any that<br />
are broken and any open ones should<br />
close when you tap them, if they don’t<br />
chuck them away – they’re dead. Then cut<br />
or pull off any rope (beards) left attached to<br />
the shell.<br />
You can cook the mussels in batches if you<br />
only have small pans, but remember to<br />
retain the stock for each batch.<br />
"Always use the shells as pincers<br />
to eat the next one with"
You'll need<br />
A large pot with a lid (or a moules pot)<br />
500g of fresh mussels in the shell per<br />
person<br />
1 Large Onion<br />
1 Head of Celery<br />
2 or more Cloves of Garlic<br />
Bouquet Garni<br />
Butter or Olive Oil<br />
½ litre of water<br />
1 glass of Dry White Wine<br />
Parsley<br />
Optional Extras: Cream; apple juiceor still<br />
Cider orCalvados (apple brandy)<br />
1. Rough dice the onion and celery and<br />
sweat them in your biggest pot with some<br />
olive oil (or butter).<br />
2. Add the garlic and sweat the mix some<br />
more (you do not want to caramelise or<br />
colour any of this).<br />
3. Add the water and a pinch of salt and<br />
the wine (check it’s up to standard first).<br />
4. Add the bouquet Garni. Let it all come up<br />
to the boil and then add the mussels.<br />
Cover and simmer for about 5 minutes or<br />
until they have all opened. (Discard any<br />
that didn’t open during the cooking<br />
process).<br />
Serve in bowls, cover with stock, sprinkle<br />
some fresh parsley over and eat with fresh<br />
baguette and good friends.<br />
To give your moules dish a <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
twist, add a splash of flat (not fizzy) cider or<br />
better still Calvados ( apple juice for those<br />
on a detox) and then a couple of tablespoons<br />
of cream. Always use heavy or<br />
double as single will split.
La Vie du Chateau - brilliant<br />
cooking classes in an 18th century<br />
chateau in the Loire Valley.<br />
Learn to make classic French<br />
dishes, English language cookery<br />
lessons that are fabulous and fun<br />
in a unique & gorgeous setting in<br />
an all inclusive holiday.<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
Website: Lavieduchateau.com<br />
Hidden Veggie Pop up<br />
restaurant in Haute Vienne at<br />
Saint Laurent-sur-Gorre, close to<br />
Limoges.<br />
Enjoy a delicious flavour-popping<br />
vegetarian (or vegan) homecooked<br />
dish in the home of a local<br />
in a fun and authentic<br />
atmoshphere.<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
<strong>No</strong>rmandy Cooking Days - learn<br />
to cook with a British chef in<br />
<strong>No</strong>rmandy close to Mont St Michel.<br />
On this one day course you'll shop<br />
at the markets, create classic,<br />
scrumptious <strong>No</strong>rman dishes &<br />
learn about the famous<br />
gastronomy of <strong>No</strong>rmandy<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
Website: <strong>No</strong>rmandycookingdays.<br />
co.uk<br />
Cookies Campers - the ultimate<br />
glampervan holiday in the south<br />
of France. Hire a luxury<br />
campervan & enjoy the freedom<br />
of the open road and the glorious<br />
outdoors. Go where you want,<br />
when you want & stop off where<br />
you like in the sunny south.<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
Website: Cookies-campers.com
Experience (My) France tours of<br />
Aveyron. Veronique, a local, will<br />
show you this little known part of<br />
France in all its stunning glory.<br />
Medieval villages, flowery<br />
meadows, forested gorges &<br />
vineyards that cling to the sides of<br />
steep hills. This is a part of<br />
France to be savoured...<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
Website: experiencemyfrance.<br />
Expat Dating France<br />
If you're looking to make new<br />
friends in France or perhaps to<br />
find someone to share the good<br />
life with, Expat Dating in France<br />
may just be the thing. Set up by<br />
an expat who herself found it<br />
hard to make friends, it's a great<br />
way to meet like-minded people<br />
Click to read more about it<br />
Website: Expatdatingfrance.com<br />
Artistic Gourmet Adventures<br />
Holiday in France that inspire<br />
Tours that show you real France<br />
with an itinerary that's perfect for<br />
you and that won't rush you on and<br />
off a bus with hundreds of others.<br />
Have an adventure of a lifetime<br />
with one of these fabulous, luxury<br />
tours...<br />
Click here to read more about it<br />
Website:<br />
artisticgourmetadventures.com<br />
Paris Chanson<br />
If you love French music, culture,<br />
history and fun facts then click<br />
onto Radio Paris Chanson,<br />
English language radio for<br />
Francophiles everywhere. They<br />
play the "golden age" of music,<br />
share loads of great facts and<br />
anecdotes<br />
Click here to read more about it<br />
Website: radioparischanson.com<br />
Tours du Tarn - cycling holidays.<br />
Offering some of the best cycling<br />
terrain in France, this brand new<br />
centre based company is opening<br />
up the Tarn for all levels of riders.<br />
Training breaks, guided, selfguided,<br />
beginners, weekends &<br />
longer fabulous cycling holidays<br />
in a stunning location.<br />
Click here to read more about it<br />
Website: Tarncyclingholidays.<br />
The Happpy Hamlet<br />
Discover a stunning retreat in a<br />
centuries old farm-hamlet in<br />
southwest France, Tarn et<br />
Garronne. The perfect get-away<br />
with lush accommodation,<br />
fabulous food and wine & loads of<br />
activities from music and art to<br />
yoga & well-being and more.<br />
Click here to read more about it<br />
Website: Thehappyhamlet.com
It's been a crazy few months for me and things have been quite topsy<br />
turvy at home. The reason is - I wrote a book, and it got published. I've got<br />
to tell you it's quite surreal to walk into a branch of WHSmith in the UK<br />
and see your name on the shelf! I have been taking selfies surreptitously,<br />
grinning like a fool next to book "my" shelves in Waterstones. It's even in<br />
Shakespeare & Co. one of my favourite book shops in Paris (and it's in<br />
WHSmith at 148 Rue de Rivoli Paris, opposite the Tuileries Gardens!).<br />
Okay that is the shameless plug almost over with - except if you'd like to<br />
buy it, "My Good Life in France", my story of how I came to France by<br />
accident, gave up my dream job for love and acquired 60 animals and an<br />
understanding of the culture of my adopted country and a whole lot more,<br />
is out in the UK (Australia 1 July and Us soon) and on Amazon<br />
everywhere!<br />
My animals of course have not noticed any of this furore going on. To<br />
them I am simply the maid, cleaner, cuddler and mad woman who gets up<br />
early every morning to feed, water, walk and love them.<br />
"Do you need grounding now you're a famous author" asked my sister, I<br />
think she was joking. Anyway the answer is no, not really, not when I have<br />
to clean out chicken coops after I've just been interviewed by the Daily<br />
Express. <strong>No</strong>t when I have to worm the cats, after I've just done a live radio<br />
show. <strong>No</strong>t when I have to clear up after two orphaned baby chickens who<br />
had to live in the house for three weeks as they needed some special TLC<br />
just as I'm about to be interviewed by Woman's Own Magazine.<br />
Writing a book is a dream come true for me and I thank you all because<br />
everyone who follows me on Facebook or Twitter, who visits my website,<br />
who reads this magazine - you've been my inspiration.<br />
Thank you.<br />
Bisous from France,<br />
Janine xx