Spring 2024

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The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 37
ISSN 2754-6799
The Gulf of
Saint-Tropez
Picturesque villages
and naturally beautiful
The charms of
Sarlat
Hidden
France
The treasures of the
north, Bergerac and
Beaujolais
Pickled in the past
Cahors,
the Lot
Spotlight on
Medieval Mirepoix
Magazine
Delicious
recipes
Bringing you an
irresistible taste of
France – including
mouth-watering
raspberry tart, updated
croque monsieur & more…
144 pages
of inspirational features and gorgeous photos

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The Leggett famil y
wel comes you !
Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Magazine,
I’m totally thrilled to share this stunning Spring issue with you – it’s
absolutely brimming with fabulous features and ideas for your
travels – gourmet adventures, seaside glamour and the secret
and less well-known parts of authentic France. Plus a big dollop
of culture and history, mouth-watering recipes, guides and much,
much more.
We cross France from the sun-kissed shores of the south and the
gorgeous pinch-yourself-it’s-so-pretty Gulf of Saint-Tropez to the
luminous Opal Coast in Pas-de-Calais in the far north.
Discover the charms of the Chateau-rich Valley of the Oise in
Picardy and follow in Vincent Van Gogh’s footsteps. Head to
Champagne to find out all about the bubbles; and explore the
roof tops of Paris. Visit pickled-in-the-past Sarlat in Dordogne, the
pastoral beauty of wine giant Beaujolais, captivating Cahors in the
Lot Valley, and glorious medieval Mirepoix in the Midi-Pyrenees.
Come with us to the Pays de la Loire to discover protected
wetlands and salt marshes; and to ancient Bergerac, a land of
vineyards and castles. In Brittany we explore Quiberon with its
secluded harbours, superb coastline and megalithic menhirs,
monuments of a long gone past.
We seek out the hidden gems of France, the historic Seven Valleys
in northern France, coveted and fought over for centuries leaving
an extraordinary medieval footprint. Head to a little town near
Paris, where the most successful French 19th century artist you
never heard of, Rosa Bonheur lived in a beautiful castle; and follow
the Via Rhona, one of France’s newest cycle routes.
From the French culinary world, top chefs share their favourite
dishes from the classic Croque Monsieur revisited to a most
delicious raspberry tart – resistance is futile!
And now – it’s time to enjoy this magazine which is totally free
to read, and subscribe to, just hop on to page 4 and sign up! And
please do share this issue with your friends – that’s free too.
I wish you a very happy spring.
Bisous from my little corner in rural northern France,
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
Bienvenue
Follow us on Twitter,
Instagram & Facebook
+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 · leggettfrance.com · info@leggett.fr
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr
The Good Life France | 3

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CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 37 Spring 2024
ISSN 2754-6799
The magazine is free to read, download and share
Contributors
Gillian Thornton is an award-winning
travel writer and member of the British
Guild of Travel Writers, specialising in
French destinations and lifestyle. Her
favourite place? ‘Usually where I have just
been!’
Jeremy Flint is an award-winning
photographer (Association of Photographers
Discovery Award Winner, National
Geographic Traveller Grand Prize Winner,
five-times finalist Travel Photographer of
the Year) and writer specialising in travel,
landscape and location photography.
Love France?
Subscribe to our lively and fun
podcast – everything you want
to know about France and
more – click the button:
NEWSLETTER
Podcast
24
8
ON THE COVER
8 The gorgeous Gulf of Saint-Tropez
Naturally beautiful – spectacular
hilltop villages & exquisite seaside
towns.
18 The Opal Coast, northern France
Luminous beaches, enticing
seaside villages and oodles
of charm.
102 Pickled-in-the-past Sarlat
What to see and do in and around
the ancient jewel of Dordogne.
82 Beaujolais
There’s nothing nouveau about
Beaujolais, this ancient winegrowing
area is truly stunning.
Amy McPherson is a London based travel
writer whose work has been featured
in many international publications.
When not on assignment, she loves to
ride her bike, go running along the river
Thames, or relax with her cat on her lap.
footprintsandmemories.com
Christine McKenzie is a Franco-British
journalist who writes in both English and
French. Her stories have been published
in anglophone and francophone media.
Married to a Frenchman and mother
of four, she settled 30 years ago near
Fontainebleau.
Want more France?
Subscribe to The Good Life
France weekly newsletter for
fabulous features, recipes and
more.
SUBSCRIBE
90 Cahors, the Lot
A land of historic wow factor and
breath-taking landscapes In the
heart of Occitanie.
62 Medieval Mirepoix
Meet the mind-bogglingly pretty
age-old town with a marvellous
market.
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: Cogolin, Golfe-de-Saint-Tropez ©lezbroz
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor@thegoodlifefrance.com
Advertising: sales@thegoodlifefrance.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 37 Spring 2024
62
DISCOVER
24 The Oise Valley, Picardy
Cruise the gentle Oise river,
peppered with exquisite chateaux,
and follow in Van Gogh’s
footsteps.
32 Aÿ get a kick from Champagne
Discover where and how some of
the finest Champagne in the world
is made.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

38 Le Weekend in … Calais
Great for families, historic,
arty and cultural – Calais is a
perfect weekend destination.
REGULARS
110 What’s New
All the news and events you need
for your next trip to France.
44 Quiberon & Carnac, Brittany
Sun, sea, sand and megalithic
menhirs, monuments to the
past, what’s not to love?!
142 Last word
Life in Rural France – the region
where the people have sunshine in
their hearts.
50
44
72
50 Paris rooftops
How humble tin roofs
transformed the skyline of the
City of Light.
56 Medieval Escapades in
northern France
Little known and unspoiled, the
Seven Valleys is brimming with
heritage sites.
66 La Baule & La Brière, Pays de
la Loire
These watery neighbours are
worlds apart, one a stylish
seaside resort, the other a
protected wetland area.
72 Bergerac
Vineyards, quirky museums,
enchanting chateaux - and
the true story of Cyrano de
Bergerac.
78 Rosa Bonheur, Chateau de By
The most famous artist of
the 19th century, not Monet
or Manet – Rosa Bonheur,
rediscovered.
96 Via Rhona
Cycling one of France’s newest
routes which runs from the Alps
to the Mediterranean.
PHOTO SPECIALS
108 Your photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our
Facebook page.
110
140
124
GUIDES
114 Spotlight on the Loire Valley
Dreaming of a new life in France?
The Loire Valley is a great place
to live.
120 Cross-Channel connections
Dave Pegg of folk-rock band
Fairport Convention, talks about
life in Brittany.
124 Why Pas-de-Calais is a great
place to live
Most people stumble upon this
outpost of the far north and are
surprised at how lovely it is.
132 How to market your gite
Top tips to help your gite dreams
come true.
BON APPÉTIT
135 Croque Monsieur revisited
A new take on an old classic –
mouth-wateringly moreish!
136 Provencal shoulder of lamb
The perfect Spring dish with a
scrumptious vegetable tian.
138 Chicken in tarragon sauce
A deliciously herby dish from the
French Cooking Academy.
140 Raspberry & chocolate
ganache tart
Seriously irresistible – a fruity taste
of France.
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more -
subscription is totally free.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

The gorgeous
Janine Marsh explores a secret part of
the French Riviera…
Gulf of
SAINT-TROPEZ
“Once upon a time there was a jewel nestling
between Provence and the Côte d’Azur…”
began an email I got from a friend. Who can
resist an introduction like that? Certainly not
me! So, I headed to the Golfe de St-Tropez,
and found a little piece of French heaven.
The Golfe de Saint-Tropez is bijou, stretching
30km from north to south, and 26km from
east to west, consisting of 12 Provencal villages
and seaside resorts: Cavalaire-sur-Mer,
Cogolin, Grimaud, Gassin, La Croix Valmer,
La Garde-Freinet, La Mole, Le Plan de la Tour,
Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer, Ramatuelle, Sainte-
Maxime and Saint-Tropez.
Saint-Tropez is of course world-famous thanks
to its most well-known resident Brigitte
Bardot, but if your only goal is to visit this
lovely town, you’ll miss out on so much more.
Head for the hills to explore exquisite, pickledin-the-past
perched villages, vineyards,
and captivating coastal towns lapped by
the Mediterranean Sea where dolphins
frolic. Discover a land where the coast and
countryside are inextricably linked and where
the locals work in harmony with nature to
preserve and protect this most beautiful,
unspoiled and authentic part of France.
Ramatuelle © E. Bertrand
When to go
The best time to visit may surprise you, it’s not
during the summer months - though they are
lovely, but instead spring and autumn when
the weather is lovely, everything is open, the
sea is warm enough to swim in and the natural
beauty of the area takes precedence. Or even
in winter with average sunshine 7 hours per
day, and the sight of blooming wildflowers,
including lavender and fresias, lifts your soul.
Visit the vineyards and enjoy wine tastings,
meet the locals who work with and preserve
nature, eat like a lord, and enjoy being
welcomed as a guest not a visitor.
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

The Villages
If, like me, your idea of an authentic
French village is the sight of ancient
trunk-twisted olive trees, plane tree-lined
squares, medieval fountains, sun-kissed
old stone houses mellowed by the passing
centuries, delicate bell towers, and azure
blue skies, then the Golfe de Saint-Tropez
is your kind of place too…
Saint-Tropez
The former tranquil fishing village can get
busy as there is only one main road that
winds around the bay, so leave the car
behind and take a boat (Bateaux Verts),
from either Sainte-Maxime, Marines de
Cogolin, or Port Grimaud. The journey
takes around 15-20 minutes, no traffic
jams and no parking needed!
Wander Saint-Tropez’ pretty streets, ogle
the super yachts, visit the town’s iconic
tower and best of all, discover the local
history through its food on a Gourmet
tour with Beyond the wine. Follow in the
footsteps of your guide Sonia, a specialist
in local produce, to discover the delicious
surprises she has selected for you. At the
market, piles of vegetables and fruit look
like still life paintings. The smell of truffled
Brie, and of 36-month-old goat cheese
made by writer, poet and legendary
farmer Loïc de Saleneuve, and of garlic
infused olives, chestnut spread and
nougat, assails your senses.
You can’t visit Saint-Tropez and not eat a
Tarte Tropézienne and the tour includes a
stop at the mythical patisserie where the
cake was born and where Tartes of every
size and flavour are displayed like jewels
in a cabinet. Enjoy with a glass of local
pale rosé. Resistance is futile.
Want a culture fix? There are several
museums including the lovely
Annonciade, a former 16th century
chapel where artist Paul Signac lived.
Arriving in 1892, and mesmerised by the
Saint-Tropez © S. Oliver visitgolfe.com
Loïc de Saleneuve, goat cheese farmer extraordinaire
Sainte-Maxime © S. Oliver visitgolfe.com
© Tarte Tropezienne B&B Maison du Prince, Grimaud
landscape, he encouraged other artists,
including Henri Matisse, to join him here and
you can see many of their paintings in the
museum. Don’t miss a visit to the fun and
fascinating Musée cinéma et gendarmerie.
Sainte-Maxime
Once a quiet fishing village, its fortunes
changed when the railway line arrived in
the 1800s creating what was known as
the Route des Pignes, the Route of the
Pines, named after the umbrella pine trees
that grow in profusion here. Inspired by
the success of Nice in attracting hordes
of tourists, Ste-Maxime developed its
tourism offer with a casino and holiday
apartments. The railway line is now gone.
Destroyed during WWII, it was considered
too expensive to repair and replace but
Ste-Maxime remains one of the biggest
and most bustling towns in the area with
year-round festivals, fetes and fairs. Take
a guided tour to discover the history and
architecture of Sainte-Maxime from the
Tour Carrée built by monks, to the façade
of the Palais des Sirènes to the palatial
former home Léon Gaumont, pioneer of
the motion picture industry in France.
Ramatuelle
Perched on a hill, the whole village of
Ramatuelle, a former Roman outpost, is
a listed historic monument. It’s a sleepy
little village that’s full of surprises. In Place
du Chateau there is no chateau, but
ancient houses lean against each other
for support, there are secret passages,
cosy cafés and an innovative free tourist
app that takes you on a treasure hunt.
Like everywhere in this area, people are
acutely eco-aware; cooking oil fuels the
lawnmowers, and the council is creating
a rain harvest system underground to
water the plants. “It’s about sharing” says
Bruno Caïetti from the tourist office “for
everyone here, share and sustain - it’s a
win/win”.
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

Grimaud
Winding roads and ancient staircases lead you
to the top of a mountain where the ruins of
an 11 th century, Grimadi-family owned (after
whom the town is named) castle seem to
spring straight from earth. Ponder 1000 years
of history as you listen to wild nightingales sing
and gaze out over the landscape and hilltop
towns. The cobbled streets are awash with
colour from plants and flowers that climb the
walls and around the doors and windows of
the old buildings while the ancient church bells
ring, reminding us that time is passing despite
the feeling it has stood still for centuries here.
Grimaud © E. Bertrand
Visit the local area by 2cv or Mehari
with Deuch›moiselles run by Coglin-based
Virginie Iafolla. I travelled in a 2CV named
Brigitte, there’s also Jack (named after
Virginie’s Jack Russell), and Camille named
after her grandma “they’re a bit like children
to me” she laughs. As we pootled and tooted
tree-lined roads, everyone turned to smile -
these cars bring out the happy in everyone.
Lunch: La Halle de Grimaud: a small covered
market, with fresh cooked street food and
sandwiches make this a favourite with the
locals, it feels like you’re taking a holiday when
you eat lunch here!
Cavalaire © lezbroz
Cogolin, Virginie des Deuch'moiselles
Le Petit Jacques
Dinner: Le Petit Jacques, Grimaud. Recently
re-opened under the new ownership of a
young couple, you’ll find a warm welcome,
excellent local, seasonal dishes cooked by
Canadian chef Francis and an excellent wine
list chosen by his partner Susanne. Everything
is homemade, from the bread and sauces to
the brioche and vanilla ice cream.
Stay: B&B La Maison du Prince, in the rue
du Knights Templier, Grimaud – named for
the band of crusading knights who guarded
this part of the coast in the 12 th century.
Match a historic village house with a touch of
interior design and you have a truly charming
chambre d’hôtes. Owner and host Patrice
Favière dreamed of having a small home
Grimaud after a career in Paris, but fell hook,
line and sinker for this B&B where the young
Prince Rainier of Monaco often stayed when
it was his childhood friend’s home. Featuring
a superb collection of artworks, kitsch flea
market finds and Prince Rainier memorabilia,
and boasting the comfiest of beds, Maison du
Prince is a unique and fabulous place to stay.
Seaside Ambiance
Thirty-eight beaches, secret coves, bustling
ports and shining marinas, with calm and
sparkling waters, coastal paths and glorious
seaside towns…
Pampelonne
If you go looking for the beach where a
nubile BB steamed up the camera lens in the
1956 movie ‘And God Created Woman’, in
St-Tropez as many do, you won’t find it, but it’s
not far away. The Bay of Pampelonne is made
up of several small coves and bays which
together form Ramatuelle beach. The 4.5km
of beaches are a paradise for swimming
and sun-bathing. This coastline also stood
in for French Polynesia in the early days of
film - it’s easy to see why with soft silky sand,
and greenish-blue blue waves split by soft
whitecaps. But there’s more to this place.
For the last 30 years there has been a big
effort to return the area to its natural state
with dune protective measures. 90,000 native
plants were dug up and conserved for several
years to keep them safe but are now replanted
and thriving, helping to stop erosion. The
restaurants which once sprawled on the beach
have been moved back slightly to enlarge the
beach area and protect the precious sand.
And small dune areas created to protect
12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13

wildlife and the environment now enhance the
beaches. It’s an astonishing success story, the
first conservation programme of its kind, and
other countries are now studying the results
to learn how to keep more areas safe and
preserved for the future.
Lagoon city – Port Grimaud
Built in the 1960s by visionary architect
François Spoerry on former marshland, the
‘lagoon city’ of some 2,500 villas, is mindbogglingly
pretty. Provence meets Venice. I
was speechless at the unique architecture with
buildings in every shade of pastel. Crossed
by numerous canals, the alleys and squares
are connected by small bridges and almost
every home has a private boat mooring. You
can get lost in its maze of narrow streets
punctuated by bridges, but a short canal tour
by boat Coche d’eau is the best way to truly
appreciate this unique and incredible village
on the sea.
Lunch: L’Orangerie beach restaurant open
year-round overlooking the beach, a great
holiday atmosphere, delicious menu (linguini
vongole is the most popular with the locals
says owner Fabien) and perfect for watching
the sunset.
Port Grimaud © S. Oliver visitgolfe.com
Pampelonne beach orangerie
Domaine du Rayol S. Oliver visitgolfe.com
nodded, enthralled by his natural story telling.
“Well in the old days, the fishermen had too
much fish, they couldn’t sell the ugly fish…” I’ll
leave him to tell you the rest when you visit!
Stay: Hotel Les Terrasses du Bailli 3* in
Rayol-Canadel. Rooms have terraces with
sun loungers overlooking the Med. The
beaches are just minutes away on foot, a
honeypot of a hotel in a tranquil location
with access to private pool and beach, spa
facilities and restaurant.
Natural Beauty
André Del Monte
Dinner: Le Maurin des Maures restaurant
Proprietor and chef André Del Monte,
affectionately known to his customer as Dédé,
is nicknamed the ‘King of the Bouillabaise.’
It’s been his signature dish for some 40
years at the restaurant which overlooks
the Bay of Rayol and where the walls are
Hotel Terrasses du Bailli © heurebleue.studio
lined with photos of happy diners including
French presidents and Hollywood celebs. “I
make bouillabaise like you make at home,
traditional. Cooking it is easy, cleaning the fish
is hard. It’s all about the quality of products.
My hands are stained red with saffron when I
prepare it… I mix the fish with onions, garlic,
tomato, potato and a few more things. I
prepare it the day before to give it time for the
flavours to infuse and give it a stronger taste.
It’s a sharing meal, even after so long making
it, I still have it at home, I love it” he grinned.
“You want to know the story of bouillabaise?” I
The Gulf of Saint-Tropez may be small, but
the landscape is incredibly diverse. From the
beaches to the Massif des Maures, one of the
oldest masses on earth, a strikingly vivid chain
of primeval rocks in hues of grey, red and
violet, covered in chestnut and cork forests.
The Corsica-like garrigue, an undergrowth
of aromatic herbs, fauna and flora scents
the air. There are around 40 wineries where
the sun-blessed grapes produce the most
elegant roses, whites and reds. This is a place
for hiking, cycling, horse riding, visiting the
botanical gardens, and enjoying the region’s
amazing nature activities.
14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15

Maison Foncin S. Oliver visitgolfe.com
Villa Foncin and House of
Nature, Cavalaire
The brand-new House of Nature opens mid-
June 2024 with exhibitions and a focus on
protecting the environment, saving water,
and making the most of what you grow. From
the centre’s garden, take a ten-minute walk
through shady forest to the Villa Foncin, the
lavishly built mansion of Pierre Foncin (1841-
1916). French cartographer and founding
member of the Alliance Française. Set atop a
cliff in an area of outstanding natural beauty,
every window frames a view that looks like a
painting, overlooking the Golden Isles, like
gardens in the surrounding sea.
Domaine du Rayol
Almost hidden away down a side street, the
Mediterranean gardens of the Domaine
du Rayol transport you to another world
where pathways squiggle their way through
bamboo tunnels, past waterfalls and along
small cliffs. You’ll encounter palm trees from
New Zealand, a dense profusion of trees and
plants from around the world from mimosa
whose scent wafts lazily in the winter months
to a prickly cactus collection and giant Birdof
Paradise plants whose flowers weigh a
whopping 2 kilos. Created by ground-breaking
gardener Gilles Clément who’s pioneering
‘work with, not against nature’ ethos has had
wide influence, you’ll encounter a heady mix
of colour and sultry perfumes year-round,
Domaine Up Ultimate Provence, La Garde-Freinet
framed by magnificent views over the lapiscoloured
Med. Head-spinningly beautiful,
this is a place to simply wander or discover its
secrets with a guided tour (French & English
language).
Stay: Domaine Up in La Garde-Freinet, an
exceptional hotel in an exquisite location in
the heart of a vineyard surrounded by forest.
New-wave Provencal accommodation with
old school glamour, deeply restful, luxurious
rooms with private terraces, a gleaming
spa, massages on top, gorgeous gardens
and a sports area including a glass-walled
badminton court overlooking the vines. The
seriously sleek bar offers tastings of the
estates own fabulous wines. Leave room in
your sightseeing itinerary to float in the pool
and soak up the ambiance of this little bit of
Provencal paradise.
Lunch: The elegant Café des Jardiniers
at Domaine du Rayol is open to all garden
visitors. You can’t reserve in advance, and it’s
super popular, so get there early and enjoy a
seasonal menu and a great choice of cocktails
and wine.
Dinner: Domaine UP – foodie heaven,
superb fine dining, cocktails on the roof
terrace watching the sun set, or on the
pétanque pitch.
Discover the area and heaps to see and do
at: www.visitgolfe.com
16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17

The Opal Coast
hotels, where you feel more like a friend
than a guest. There are beaches of great
boulders reminiscent of the Giant’s
Causeway in Ireland, and beaches where
the white silky sand lures you to sit and
drink in the wide-open horizon all the way
to the White Cliffs of Dover. Seals frolic
along the coast, and now and then, when
the tides are out, an ancient shipwreck
makes its appearance. And everywhere
there are traces of the area’s long history,
bases from which would-be-conquerors
tried for centuries to invade England.
This is a place to relax, enjoy the
delicious food, friendly hospitality and
take your time. Explore the treasures of
this rather secret and surprisingly diverse
part of France that’s hardly known
outside of the region.
Berck-sur-Mer
In the department of Pas-de-Calais, between
the great port town of Calais and the seaside
town of Berck-sur-Mer lies the Opal Coast.
Around 50 miles of glorious beaches, vast
sand dunes, pine forests and soaring cliffs,
peppered with authentic fishing villages, Belle
Epoque seaside towns, monuments, memorials
and museums. Janine Marsh explores the
rather secret coastal jewel of northern France.
At the start of 20th century, painter Édouard
Lévêque came up with the name Côte
d’Opale, the Opal Coast, inspired by the
luminous light and the ever-changing colours
of the coastline. “It has opal, a precious milkycoloured
stone that shimmers with alternating
tones of green and red” he declared. The
name stuck.
The route of the Opal Coast reveals
enchanting treasures, a land of yesteryear
with farming hamlets, little fishing villages,
charming village inns and welcoming
restaurants, Belle Epoque and art deco
hotels, manor houses converted into small
Berck-sur-Mer
White Cliffs of Dover visible from the Opal Coast
Local chocolate maker Beussent
In 1861, when this beach resort was already
the haunt of artists like Renoir, Manet and
Boudin, a local woman who had lost her
husband and four children took in some very
sick children for a recuperative holiday. The
very iodized climate revitalised them and
Berck became famous for its rejuvenating
air. 12km of breezy beaches, perfect for the
annual International Kite Festival (April),
and for seals! There’s a large colony here
who seem to love to entertain onlookers, by
basking on the sand, frolicking in the waves
and singing loudly!
There are plenty of restaurants and bars in
this traditional seaside resort plus a unique
century-old sweet shop, Succès Berckois
where you can watch them make their
famous boiled sweets in-store!
Nip to the town of Merlimont next door and
indulge at restaurant “Sur Mer” owned by
Alexandre Gauthier, the 2-star Michelin
chef of La Grenouillère (Montreuil-sur-Mer).
Overlooking the sea, and a big hit with the
locals the menu includes fish and chips and
mouth-watering minute-cooked mussel.
18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19

Le Touquet Paris-Plage
The “Monaco of the North” as it’s been
dubbed, was, at the start of the 20th century,
the place where the rich, famous and infamous
holidayed, from Kings, Queens and Maharajas
to Winston Churchill. Cole Porter wrote
“Anything Goes” here, and the town’s casino
inspired Ian Fleming to write Casino Royale.
They stayed at the swankiest hotels, like the
Westminster which is still there, or The Royal
Picardy which was the biggest hotel the world
had ever seen, 120 lounges, 500 bedrooms
and 50 apartments of up to 10 rooms, each
with their own swimming pool (it was largely
destroyed during WWII). Much loved by
Parisians, Le Touquet’s grandeur is faded but
the traces of its glitzy and glamorous past are
evident, and with 365 days of sporting and
cultural events, exhibitions and fairs every year
– there’s always plenty to see and do.
Hardelot
The endless pristine sandy beaches of
Hardelot, where aviation legend Louis Bleriot
perfected his flying skills, are never packed.
Great for families (‘Kid’ resort classification),
sports galore from canoeing and sand
yachting to horse-riding and an excellent golf
course. There’s also a chateau, once owned
by English linoleum magnate Sir John Hare in
the mid 1800’s (he refashioned it in a pseudo-
Gothic style), and the rooms are sumptuously
decorated. His neighbour in nearby Condette,
Charles Dickens, one of the greatest writers
of his era, was a frequent visitor. There’s also
a Shakespearian style theatre which the
late Queen Elizabeth II said was “amazing”.
The tranquil seaside town has plenty of little
boutiques and restaurants, an artisan biscuit
workshop, delicious ice cream parlours and
vast mansion houses.
Art Deco market, Le Touquet
Wimereux
Cap Blanc Nez ©Yannick Cadart
Colonne de la Grande Armée
©Bastien Pradeau-Pas-de-Calais Tourisme
Hardelot-plage ©A.Chaput Pas-de-Calais Tourisme
Norman villas of the Belle Epoque era.
Napoleon Bonaparte developed the town
intended as a port for his Grand Army to
invade England. Now it attracts beach lovers
and food lovers – the Art Deco Atlantic hotel
with its superb bistro and Michelin starred
restaurant is a big lure. Canadian John
McCrae died here in 1918 and is buried in
the town cemetery. McCrae, the author of
the haunting poem “In Flanders Field,” is
honoured on Armistice Day, 11th November
when children in local schools light candles in
his memory and read his poem out loud.
A few kilometres away, Wissant’s beach has
long been popular with the locals including
President Charles de Gaulle (dressed in suit
and tie to sit on the beach) and his family (his
wife Yvonne was from nearby Calais).
The Opal Coast Cliffs
At Audinghem discover the Jurassic Era Cap
Gris-Nez – Grey Nose Cliff, the closest point
on the French Coast to England. Just 19 miles
from Dover and a landmark for cross-Channel
swimmers to aim for.
Wimereux and Wissant
Wimereux, just a few kilometres from the
great city of Boulogne-sur-Mer is an unusual
town with its whimsical, colourful Anglo-
Le Touquet
Just a few kilometres away, the tiny village
of Escalles by the cliff known as Cap Blanc-
Nez – White Nose Cliff, has outstanding views
across the countryside, the coast and the
English Channel, especially at sunset.
20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

The site of les Deux Caps and the surrounding
area are listed as a Grande Site de France
due to the amazing wealth of landscapes,
habitats and coastal villages.
If you love the great outdoors, nature and
glorious fresh air, stunning beaches, cosy inns
where you’ll be warmly welcomed and served
mouth-watering seasonal and the freshest of
seafood dishes, authentic and historic villages,
hiking, mountain biking, sailing and horseriding,
fields of crimson poppies in spring and
swathes of golden rapeseed in summer – you’ll
fall head over heels for the Opal Coast…
Discover restaurants, accommodation and
what to see and do on the Opal Coast:
calais-cotedopale.co.uk
10 must-sees along
the Opal Coast
Stunning Bay of the Canche near Le Touquet.
Slack dunes – the longest stretch of dunes in
the Pas-de-Calais department.
Nausicaa – the largest aquarium in Europe,
at Boulogne-sur-Mer.
Atlantic Wall Museum, Batterie Todt, near
Cap Griz-Nez.
Cycle the Vélomaritime route which runs
from Dunkerque on the Belgian border to
Roscoff in Brittany via the Opal Coast (bike
hire available from Opale Velo from halfday
to a year).
The historic port city of Boulogne-sur-Mer.
Watch the fishermen pull their traditional
wooden boats, flobarts, up on the beach and
buy your fresh fish direct.
Napoleon’s Column on the site where the
French General planned to invade England
and awarded the first Legion d’Honneur
medals.
Visit Les 2 Caps craft brewery at Tardinghen.
Ride a dragon in Calais.
22 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 23

Domaine de Chantilly © Jerome Houyvet
River cruise of France
– Paris to Picardy
Daily cocktail on board!
Strawberries and Chantilly cream at the Chateau de Chantilly
“You are now a squire of the Brotherhood of
the Knights of Whippers of Chantilly Cream”
said the red-haired, bespectacled knight
beaming at me. It’s certainly not something
you hear every day.
I was on board the MS Raymonde, a hotel
barge in the fleet of the French family-owned
CroisiEurope company, on the Oise River
in Picardy, close to the exquisite Chateau
of Chantilly which we’d toured earlier in the
day as part of a week-long cruise of the Oise
Valley visiting historic towns, castles and
pretty villages.
The knight of the Confrérie des Chevaliers
Fouetteurs de Crème Chantilly - real name
Corinne (she works in a local restaurant), had
joined us to demonstrate how to make the
famous Chantilly cream which is said to have
been invented at the chateau. When she asked
for volunteers, I was in, I mean, how hard can
it be to whip cream? Actually, if you do it
properly, it takes about 10 minutes of good
hard whipping! I was rewarded with a bowl of
delicious vanilla-flavoured cream, whipped to
puffed up peaks of perfection, which passed
the hold it over-your-head-upside-down
test and gained me my Squire status in the
Knighthood - I have a certificate to prove it!
It’s just one of the fun and fabulous organised
events on a week-long cruise of the Oise
Valley that is full of surprises – culture, history,
beautiful villages, ancient sites, and delicious,
truly delicious, food and wines.
My rendezvous point was in Paris, in the
shadow of the Eiffel Tower, and you’ll either
embark there or be transported by private
minibus to Noyon in Picardy, to board the
specially built barge which will be your home
for 7 days. Carrying just 22 passengers
maximum, and with 6 staff, there’s plenty of
room and two sun decks to enjoy, as well as a
hot tub and bikes for cycling along the tranquil
tow paths.
The barge hotel cruises between Paris
and Pont-l’Évêque in Noyon where French
Protestant reformer John Calvin was born in
1509 and takes in some of the most famous
24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25

sites of France including the Chateau of
Malmaison, one time love nest of Napoleon
Bonaparte and his Empress Josephine, and
Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh lived and
painted prolifically for the last months of his life.
From the very first moment you board the boat
to be greeted with a glass of fizz, you feel as
though you’re part of the boat ‘family.’ Our
group included Brits, Americans, and Frenchspeaking
Canadians, but within hours we were
bonded, and at the end we all hugged when
we said goodbye feeling like we were leaving
friends behind.
I’m no stranger to CroisiEurope, I’ve taken
several cruises in France and I have loved
every one of them. I’ve been with my husband,
with friends and solo (they are great for solo
travellers by the way). All of the cruises are
low in guest numbers, high on customer
services and they always share common
traits. Amazing food. Fabulous wines. Friendly,
welcoming crew who all speak English and
French. And tours with guides (in English and
French), that will take in a mix of big-ticket
attractions, major castles for instance, plus
places that are less well-known, authentic and
a little off the beaten track. Such as Noyon.
It was dark when we left the boat after dinner
to go to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame in
Noyon. Pasquale the minibus driver dropped
us off with a guide and we entered the candle
lit abbey, especially opened for our group.
Auvers-sur-Oise
Cathedral of Notre-Dame, Noyon
A Taste of Provence. © Exquisite, all-inclusive, small group tours.
“If you have ever
considered culinary
tourism, Goût et Voyage
will be the trip of your
dreams. Excellence
at every turn!”
DS, NY
www.goutetvoyage.com
26 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 27

Compiègne
Chateau de Compiegne
Built 1130-1150 (13 years before Notre-Dame
in Paris was begun), it is the 5th church
to be built on the site where the Emperor
Charlemagne was crowned King of the Franks
in 768; Hugh Capet, founder of the Capetian
Dynasty was also crowned here (968). Next
door is Calvin’s former home, now the local
library with a small museum dedicated to him.
There’s no sailing at night, you cruise the
winding waterways most mornings, with
excursions in the afternoons, which the next
day brought us to Compiègne.
It’s a vibrant town and its medieval streets are
lined with half-timbered houses, shops, and
restaurants. There are several museums, and
a library in the former medieval cloisters. Joan
of Arc came here, and finding her way barred
by the Governor who feared her presence
would endanger his town, she was taken
prisoner by the Burgundian forces (English
allies), on 14 May 1430. It’s said that Joan
prayed in the town’s 13th century church of
St Jacques. It’s richly decorated and has a
reliquaries room full of bones and bits.
The vast Royal Chateau of Compiègne, one
of the biggest in France, is a wonderfully
preserved time capsule. Napoleon Bonaparte
spent much time here, but not having the
funds to revamp it, he left most of it as it was
when the Bourbon Kings were on the throne,
and it remains just as it was. Filled with
furniture, tapestries, and artworks, it sits in the
heart of the town and on the edge of the great
forest of Compiègne, one of the largest forests
of France.
Close by, the Armistice museum is home to
a replica of the railway dining coach which
became a makeshift conference room in
which the Armistice ending World War I
was signed at 05.00 11 November 1918. It
makes for a moving visit. Read more about
Compiègne here.
The next day we headed to Chantilly to visit
one of the most beautiful castles in all of
France. Oozing with history, home to one of
the greatest collections of artworks in the
world, sumptuously decorated, gorgeous
Chateau de Chantilly
Last resting place of Vincent Van Gogh and his
beloved brother Theo, Auvers-sur-Oise
Tour the beautiful Loire Valley at your own pace
with a guided e-bike holiday
Slow Down And Enjoy The View
www.loirebrakes.com
gardens which cover a whopping 115 hectares
and include a hamlet that is said to have
inspired Marie-Antoinette to build her own
hamlet at Versailles, plus chateau-like
stables. And the place where yours truly
became a Square of the Knighthood of the
Chantilly Cream Whippers! Read more about
Chantilly here.
Sailing on, accompanied by herons, swans and
ducks sharing the glorious countryside with
us, we arrived in Auvers-sur-Oise, the town in
which Vincent Van Gogh lived his last weeks.
We docked a stone’s throw from the famous
church that Van Gogh painted. He was here
for just 70 days and in that time, he created
in a frenzy - 76 paintings of local sites and
people. I couldn’t help but think it was almost
as if he knew his time was up or was planning
to ensure it.
After a walk to visit his grave, poignantly
next to his beloved brother’s last resting
place, we took a guided tour of the town
following in the footsteps of Van Gogh and
28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29

other artists who were captivated by the
beauty of this area including Cezanne and
Pissarro. Van Gogh worked nonstop, painting
the farmhouses, and winding roads to the
fields and he would probably recognise
the landscape, the town, and the lovinglyrestored
garret where he lived above the
Auberge Rouge. We ended with a visit to the
Absinthe Museum – and of course a tasting
of the ‘Green Fairy’, one of Van Gogh’s
favourite tipples.
Continuing the arty theme in Pointoise down
river, we followed the Impressionist Trail
with a guide who showed us the sites that
featured in works by many artists including
Paul Gaugin. Housed in a 19th century
mansion, the Pissarro Museum features some
of Camille Pissarro’s works plus those by his
five sons and the Impressionists who were
influenced by him.
Then it was on to the glorious Chateau of
Malmaison, where Josephine Bonaparte
loved to grow roses and where after her
divorce from Napoleon, she continued to
live. Beautifully decorated and furnished
in Empire style, it has an intimate feel to it
though it’s barely ten miles from Paris.
Sailing down the River Seine, sipping
sparkling wine as you admire some of the
most famous and legendary landmarks - the
twinkling Eiffel Tower, the Statue of Liberty
looking out from an island to its big sister in
New York, the historic buildings and iconic
sites is a feeling that’s uniquely special. It’s a
cruise where you’ll make priceless memories
to cherish forever.
Tasting at the absinthe museum, Auvers-sur-Oise
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The Good Life France | 31
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Aÿ get a kick
from Champagne
The Champagne hillsides, houses and cellars are UNESCO listed in
recognition of their heritage. The historic vineyards of Hautvillers, where monk
Dom Perignon lived and worked, the area of Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Saint-
Nicaise Hill in Reims, the Avenue de Champagne and Fort Chabrol in Epernay.
Sign at Pressoria
East of Paris lies the region of Champagne –
known around the world for its effervescent
wine. The most well-known vineyards are in
the Marne department, also home to the
two major cities of Champagne: Reims and
Epernay. Both sit above hundreds of miles
of cellars in which several million bottles of
Champagne lie waiting to be released and
enjoyed by a legion of fans. And around these
two Champagne cities is glorious countryside,
peppered with farms, unspoiled villages
and precious vineyards, where the soul of
Champagne resides says Janine Marsh.
Aÿ, pronounced like ‘eye’, is the third most
important Champagne wine town in the
Marne. As far back as Gallo-Roman times,
the Romans arrived in 57 BC, it was already
well known for its wine. King Henri IV (1353-
1610) called himself “Sire d’Aÿ” and legend
has it that he kept a wine press in a house
behind the medieval church of St Brice. A
stone’s throw from the church is Pressoria
– not a museum says the director Victor
Canchon, “it’s a sensory journey to the heart
of Champagne.” And it’s a fabulous place to
start your discovery of Champagne.
No dry exhibition this, quite literally – as it
ends with a delicious tasting. Pressoria is
housed on the site of a former Pommery
Champagne pressing centre. It’s innovative
and interactive, fun and fascinating, and great
for the whole family. A visit here gives you a
marvellous overview of Champagne from the
land to the bottle. 10 rooms are dedicated to
all things Champagne. Animated vines snake
across the floor at your feet, bubbles follow
your hands as you run them over the walls; it
really is a sensory visit as you taste, touch, see,
listen and smell the magic of Champagne.
You can easily spend two hours here. Details:
pressoria.com/en
And there’s no better place to continue your
Champagne voyage of discovery than this
exquisite part of the region. There are many
producers and growers in the hills around
and if you can’t make up your mind which
to choose – the Champagne Tour Co can
32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33

Dine at
Restaurant Calsis next to Pressoria is a must.
Big windows overlook hilly vineyards, and
it’s always packed with locals enjoying the
excellent 3 or 6 course menus, with of
course Champagne.
Stay at
help with setting up tours, meetings and
transport in very posh cars! Very few of the
big Champagne houses grow all their own
grapes; some grow none. They mainly depend
on the 16,000 individual growers in the
region. Of the growers, just 4,700 actually
produce Champagne and two of the best
are Champagne Lallemont-Massonnot in
Coulommes-la-Montagne and Champagne
Delavenne in the aptly named village of
Bouzy.
At Champagne Lallemont-Massonnot, you
can take a superb tour that takes you from the
vineyard to the pressing room, past the tanks
and into the bottling room. It’s a backstage
tour and tells the human story of Champagne
production. Plus, you’ll taste some of the
finest Champagne ever made, created by 5th
generation Champagne makers Xavier and
Marie Lallement.
Pressoria – bubbles follow your
hands on the wall
Calsis
Domaine du Chateau in Chigny-les-Roses
near Pressoria. This is no ordinary hotel, it’s a
little piece of Paradise, elegant, luxurious and
exquisite. The little chateau is so discreetly
marked you may miss the sign as I did, but
everyone in the village knows it. I arrived
under a star-filled sky and the big wood fire
was crackling in the cosy salon. There are
four rooms and each of them is very different.
One is a suite really with a library/sitting room
that reminded me of the film “My Fair Lady”
and has its own wood fire. My room had a
huge terrace overlooking the vineyards and a
bathroom with a spiral staircase that wouldn’t
look out of place in a Harry Potter scene.
There’s also a treehouse you can stay in, plus a
pool and spa area.
Whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to
experience chef Damien Litaudon’s exquisite
dishes. Seriously, seriously special, Michelin
level without the theatrics, innovative,
impeccable and very, very delicious. Every
course is paired with one of the Domaine’s
own superb Palmer & Co. champagnes. One
of the best meals I’ve ever had.
Jean-Christophe Delavenne of Champagne
Delavenne learned about making Champagne
from his grandfather and father, and he is
passionate about respecting the land, organic
and natural production. Just one sip of one of
the outstanding Champagne he makes will tell
you all you need to know – astonishingly good,
it tastes like heaven.
Marie and Xavier Lallemont
Domaine du Chateau, appetisers Montagne de Rheims Champagne country © Deposit photos 86072708
34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35

How Champagne is made
Champagne is made from three grapes, chardonnay - a
white grape, pinot noir and pinot meunier – red grapes.
The harvest is anytime from the end of August to early
October depending on weather conditions, though cellars
are open all year.
To start with, Champagne is made like any wine, the
grapes are pressed, the juice is stored and undergoes
fermentation which changes it into wine. Next comes the
blending stage to make different types of Champagne.
For a non vintage champagne, wines stored from all over
the region in earlier years, are added to get the taste
required. After blending, liqueur de tirage, a blend of
sugar and yeast that starts the second fermentation, is
added, and the wine is bottled with a temporary metal
cap. In the old days, a lid would be tied on with string!
Scientists at Vienna University
of Technology recently
discovered, in testing the speed
of a cork from Champagne,
that a supersonic shock wave
forms as the gas escapes the
champagne bottle, reaching
speeds of over 1.5 times the
speed of sound!
The carbon dioxide produced in this second fermentation remains in suspension in the wine.
Sediment is also produced from the dead yeast cells. To get rid of it, the bottles are placed in
racks, head down, so the sediment can drift down to the neck. Each day the bottles are given a
slight twist, called riddling, to shake the sediment down. It used to be done by hand and a good
riddler can turn 25,000 bottles a day, though these days it’s largely done by machine.
Then the bottle neck is dipped into a brine solution to freeze it, the cap is removed and the
sediment along with a bit of frozen wine is forced out by the carbon dioxide, to be replaced
with a drop of wine and sugar, called a dosage. Then the bottle is sealed with a cork, and laid
down to rest from one to three years on average, up to ten years for the best Champagnes.
Recent studies claim
that there are around
1 million bubbles
in a single glass of
Champagne.
What’s on the label:
Grand Cru and Premier Cru denotes vineyards in
villages where the grapes are considered superior.
Cuvée (or premier taille) – basically the first pressing
of the grapes which is considered the best, specifically
it refers to the first 2,050 litres of grape juice pressed
from 4000kg of grapes. Deuxieme taille refers to the
next 500 litres pressed.
Brut, sec and doux – refers to the sugar dosage
Brut is made from all three grapes, extra brut is slightly
sweeter, brut nature or brut zero is a dry Champagne with a
very low sugar content
Sec is a semi-sweet Champagne, demi-sec has a little more
sweetness, extra-sec is sweeter than Brut but still considered dry.
Doux is the sweetest of the champagnes.
Rosé Champagne is a blend of white and red grapes whose skins are left on
longer to add colour.
36 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 37

For millions of Brits, Calais is their first
introduction to France, maybe to Europe.
Arriving at the port of Calais, those millions,
by and large, point their cars south, unaware
of the historic town they miss, oblivious to
its treasures and charms. But Calais is well
worth stopping for says Janine Marsh who
lives nearby.
Calais is an ideal day trip or weekend
destination, and absolutely worth a detour
on your way to or from the UK. Perfect for a
spot of shopping and stocking up on French
wine and goods. And it’s ideal for kids - with
a resident dragon, stunning beach, plus a
chance to practice their French language
skills. History and culture lovers will find lots
to keep them happy and food lovers will
be over the moon with the cosy bistros and
seafood restaurants. Here’s why I think Calais
should be on your bucket list.
Discover
CALAIS
Calais old harbour
Calais Dragon © Fred Collier
Family Friendly
Seaside fun: The seafront of Calais has, like
the town, undergone a major redevelopment.
A new promenade, new restaurants and
bars, ice cream and snack kiosks, skate park,
free fitness areas, exercise bikes, basketball
courts and playgrounds. If you remember
Calais as a rather old-fashioned resort,
you’re in for a surprise. Calais beach has
been completely revamped, and its silkily
soft sandy beaches are pristine. And there’s
plenty of free parking.
Meet a dragon: Calais is home to a dragon.
Yes really. The seafront of the city is a unique
playground for a winged, fire-breathing,
winking, sneezing 82 feet long friendly
dragon! It doesn’t matter how old you are,
you can’t help but be amazed at the sight of
him as he carries up to 50 passengers on his
back and takes them on what has to be one
of the most unusual city tours in the world.
Reach for the sky: The 271 steps of the Calais
lighthouse are worth the effort for stupendous
360° panoramic views over Calais and the
English Channel. This local landmark has
38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39

een in service for almost 200 years in what’s
known as the Fishermen's area, called Kaleis in
the 12th century.
Take a cruise: On weekends take a cruise on
the Calais Canal (details at the tourist office).
History & Culture
The destiny of Calais has been influenced
by its proximity to England, just 38km across
the Channel. When Edward III of England
invaded France in 1337, the event started the
Hundred Years War. And in 1347, Calais fell
under English rule following an 8-month long
siege, at the end of which, 6 burghers (leading
citizens) offered their lives to save the rest
of the townspeople. The English King spared
them, and they are honoured in a magnificent
larger-than-life sculpture by August Rodin
outside the town’s historic town hall, where
General Charles de Gaulle married Yvonne
Vendroux, daughter of a local biscuit
manufacturer. Calais didn’t become French
again until 1558. For a bird’s eye view over
the town, head to the top of the UNESCOlisted
Belfry attached to the town hall, which
is considered to be one of the most beautiful
in France with its neo-Flemish façade and Art
Deco-stained glass windows and decor.
Calais Lighthouse © Office de Tourisme Calais Cote d'Opale
Rodin's Burghers of Calais
forces during WWII as a defence against an
anticipated Allied invasion. In the Park St
Pierre, in front of the town hall is a rather
hidden, very interesting museum, Musée
Mémoire, housed inside a bunker complete
with 21 rooms of exhibits telling the history
of Calais (73% of the old Calais district was
destroyed) during WWII.
The City of Lace and Fashion museum has
a huge and fascinating collection of textiles
and costumes reflecting the city’s position as
the centre of the French lace making industry
since the early 1800s. There are regular
temporary exhibitions and a superb shop.
Foodies
Feeling peckish? You’re in the right place!
There’s a huge choice of restaurants in Calais,
from refined dining to cosy cafes and you’ll
find a super list on the tourist office website
(see bottom of the post).
A short walk away, the Fine Arts Museum. It
has a fine collection including a permanent
Rodin exhibition which has been recently
renovated in collaboration with the Rodin
Museum of Paris.
Only a few traces of Calais’ medieval past
have survived including the 13th century Tour
du Guet, the Watch Tower in Place d’Armes
which in the 19th century was used as a
telegraph station. It was from here that news
of the death of Napoleon was transmitted to
Paris. There is a ring of forts created to protect
the city dating from the 14th century to the
16th century Citadel built on the site of a
medieval castle. In the 17th century King Louis
XIV’s military engineer Vauban undertook a
revamp of these fortifications. More recently
the Atlantic Wall was constructed by German
Calais Town Hall
Calais Town Hall
40 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 41

Just a few of my favourites include
Aquar’aile which has magnificent panoramic
sea views and a superb menu including
succulent oysters and a scrumptious fruit
de mer platter, leave room for a dessert or
two – it’s hard to choose just one! Au Côte
d’Argent has great views to the coast from
where you can watch the Calais dragon pass
by. With a light and airy dining room, and in
the summer, a brilliant barbeque area and
sunny terrace, the menu is just so tempting
(from €28 for three courses – it’s a steal),
and the food is superb. Enjoy a gastronomic
feast at Le Grand Bleu in the port of Calais.
Classic meets innovative here, hot-dog au
boudin de St Jacques with spicy shrimps is
absolutely irresistible!
Feast on the atmosphere as well as the food
at Les Grandes Tables du Channel at Calais’s
National Theatre. With a restaurant serving
modern classic dishes, (the 5-course menu
de extraordinaire at just €42 really lives
up to its name) and a cosy bistro serving
local favourites in theatrically decorated
surroundings, this is one of the best kept
secrets of Calais and foodies will adore it.
Calais beach © Fred Collier
Street markets are held in place d’Armes on
Wednesdays and Saturdays and at place
Crevecoeur on Thursday and Saturday
mornings.
There’s a really helpful tourist office in the
town, by the station, and you can visit the
tourist office website for lots of details for
what to see and do: calais-cotedopale.co.uk
Meet our mechanical marvels and book your tickets on
compagniedudragon.com
42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43
Photo : Kleec Photographie
Travel aboard the magnificent
Calais Dragon

WETLAND Wonders
Gillian Thornton explores a stylish seaside resort and its wetland neighbour in
Pays de la Loire.
Beach resorts can get pretty crowded on
a summer Saturday, but head down to the
waterfront at La Baule and there’s plenty
of space for everyone. Tucked into a curve
of the coastline just north of the Loire
estuary, La Baule-Escoublac – to give the
town its full name – boasts a glorious arc of
golden sand stretching for nine seductive
kilometres between the headlands of Le
Pouliguen and Pornichet.
Turn your back on the sea however and just a
few miles inland lies a very different watery
landscape. The Parc Naturel Régional de la
Brière is France’s second largest wetland area
after the Camargue, bordered by the river
Loire and the shipyards of Saint-Nazaire to
the south, the Vilaine river and Brittany to
the north. Stay in La Baule and you can enjoy
a wide range of aquatic activities in, on and
beside the water.
I arrive by car from the walled town and salt
marshes of neighbouring Guérande – catch
up on my trip in our last issue. Barely 6 km
apart, they make a dramatic contrast. One a
medieval city with lofty ramparts and towers;
the other, a modern resort of low-rise buildings
and seaside villas. And what villas!
Today’s resort grew out of the humble village of
Escoublac which holds the dubious distinction
of having to move inland to escape the
onslaught of sand blown in from the dunes.
In 1779, this once coastal community shifted
Le Croisic
away from the shore, but gradually the dunes
were stabilised with planting schemes and in the
1830s, tourists began to trickle in from Saint-
Nazaire to nearby Pornichet and Le Croisic.
Fast forward to the 1880s, the arrival of the
railway and a growing fashion for sea bathing.
Two Parisian entrepreneurs involved with
the railway – Jules-Joseph Hennecart and
Edouard Darlu – quickly saw the potential of
Escoublac as a new holiday resort. So they
bought up 40 hectares of dunes at La Bôle,
enlisted the help of local businessmen, and laid
44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

a broad avenue from the station to the sea.
Renamed Avenue du Général de Gaulle in
1945, it is now one of the town’s main streets
for shopping and restaurants.
More amenities followed and soon wealthy
buyers were investing in plots to build their
own holiday villas. In 1896, the resort was
renamed La Baule and despite the dips in
fortunes created by two World Wars, the
town has grown steadily to be one of the most
popular resorts on the Atlantic Coast.
La Baule’s sea front villas were sadly
redeveloped during the post-war years in
what can only be seen now as a tragedy of
urban planning. Great if you want a holiday
apartment with your feet in the ocean, but
completely lacking in atmosphere. Go behind
the bland sea front architecture however and
you immediately step back a century.
Today there are few nicer urban strolls than
meandering along La Baule’s pine-scented
Allées and Avenues to peer through garden
gates and over ornamental walls at the
eclectic mix of flamboyant properties, 15
of them given protected status for their
exceptional architecture. Each villa is different
in style, from half-timbered ‘Anglo-Normand’
mansions to Art Deco splendour and medieval
fantasies. And each one has a name, often
in Breton, La Baule originally being part of
Brittany rather than Pays de la Loire.
I stop first outside Villa Symbol, built in 1881
in Anglo-Normand style and the private
home of architect Georges Lafont. An eyecatching
combination of stone and timber,
curved roof lines and embellished spire, it
was the first grand villa that visitors would see
as they came out from the station, a great
advertisement for the 250 properties that
Lafont would go on to design in the town.
Close by, I come across Coq de Roche, a
classic example of Art Deco style with its
whitewashed facades and red shutters, flat
roof and metal balconies. La Baule’s many
thousands of trees are also protected, but
only a handful of properties can boast their
original gardens and, as at Villa Saint-Charles,
Le Croisic
Pierre Bouguer, Le Croisic
M Restaurant - former butcher and baker shops
an outdoor gallery where 19 th century visitors
would sit to inhale the clean air, often to
recover from TB.
I soak up the period atmosphere at Hôtel
Saint-Christophe, a 4-star hotel composed
of four individual villas dating from the early
1900s. Just a short walk from the beach and
boutiques, it’s a great place to sample the
good life with individually designed bedrooms
and stylish public rooms. After an aperitif in
the hotel’s shady garden, I stroll to Place du
Maréchal Leclerc for dinner in the garden
of Le M. This popular bistro takes its name
from the shape of the two steep roofs of
what were once adjoining shops. Across the
square stands St Anne’s Chapel, the first
public building erected in La Baule. Now an
exhibition centre, it was commissioned by
M Hennecart, a deeply religious man whose
widow was so incensed at the opening of a
casino that she left La Baule, never to return.
I walk home along the sea front as the sun
sinks over the calm ocean and watch families,
friends and even horse riders make the most
of a balmy evening on the beach. And after
a blissfully quiet night, I head west out of La
Baule next morning for the short drive along
the south side of the Guérande salt pans. Time
to spare? Hire an electric bike instead from Le
Pouliguen Bikevasion to visit Le Croisic, Batzsur-Mer
and maybe the Grand Blockhaus
Museum, a World War II bunker that tells the
story of the Saint-Nazaire Pocket.
Now designated a Petite Cité de Caractère
of the Loire-Atlantique department, Le
Croisic stands on the headland where the
ocean flows through a narrow gap into
the salt marshes. Enjoy a drink beside the
marina or at a café table in the pretty town
centre; visit the Océarium sea life centre;
and pay homage to the seafront statue
of Pierre Bouguer, 18 th century scientist,
mathematician and astronomer.
Swapping salt water for fresh, I turn the car
inland to explore the Brière Regional Natural
Park or PNR. Nicknamed the Pays Noir
or Black Country because of its rich peat
46 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 47

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Villa Symbol, 1881, La Baule
Kerhinet
reserves, this freshwater marshland is bisected
by 140 km of canals navigable by flatbottomed
boat. Peat is no longer harvested,
but the marsh is used for livestock, hunting and
fishing. Find out more about the flora, fauna
and traditional way of life in the showpiece
hamlet of Kerhinet near Saint-Lyphard, its
single street fringed by thatched cottages
housing craft businesses and displays.
Then take a short drive to the cluster of
cottages that make up the tiny Port de Bréca,
departure point for discovery trips by boat
or on board a horse-drawn wagon. If you’re
feeling energetic, hire a rowing boat, but I
can recommend the guided tour from L’Arche
Briéronne with a knowledgeable local guide
who will punt you through the canals whilst
explaining the fragile ecosystem of this
magical wetland.
Beyond the marsh, the cranes of Saint-
Nazaire’s busy shipyards are clearly visible on
the horizon, but here at water level, life moves
at a gentle pace, much as it has for centuries.
La Baule … La Brière … two very different
water worlds that combine to make a unique
and addictive double-act.
Tourist information from
labaule-guerande.com
Horse and carriage in
village of Bréca, Brière
Regional Natural Park
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48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49

Paris’ legendary
zinc rooftops
Paris’ legendary zinc
rooftops
Have you ever looked at a photo of Paris and
wondered why so many of the rooftops look so
good despite the age of the buildings? It’s all
down to zinc, a humble metal that was chosen
as the roof topping of the ‘modern’ buildings
of 19 th century Paris says Sue Aran.
Much that we love and hold dear about the
City of Light today, we owe to the singular
brilliance of Georges Eugène “Baron”
Haussmann. In 1853, when he began the
renovation of Paris at the command of
Emperor Napoleon III, he was unaware of the
enormous cultural impact his reconfiguration
of the city would have. As a former architect, I
find his vision inspiring and extraordinary. Not
only was he prescient about humanizing the
scale of the city, but he also knew instinctively
that in a grand, large-scale design, rhythm
and harmony of materials were essential.
The beautiful, iconic zinc rooftops of Paris,
which practically all Haussmann buildings are
covered by — and the workers who create
them — were even considered for UNESCO’s
list of French Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Paris’s zinc roofs are thanks to the work of
cleric Jean-Jacques Dony (1759-1819) of
Liège, a part of France at that time though
now it is part of Belgium. Dony was fascinated
by chemistry and by his early 20s, he had
his own laboratory. He spent 25 years
researching the smelting of zinc which is
present in the earth, air and water. It is nontoxic,
a trace element that is indispensable
for all living organisms, a fundamental part
of the metabolic processes of plants, animals
and humans. In the human body, over 300
enzymes require zinc for proper functioning.
Although zinc compounds had been used
for at least 2,500 years in the production
of brass, zinc wasn’t recognized as a
distinct element until 1668, when a Flemish
metallurgist, P. Moras de Respour, pioneered
the extraction of metallic zinc from zinc oxide.
As far as Europe was concerned however,
Paris © Shayna Stillman
View from the Arc de Triomphe © Grace Marshall
zinc was discovered by the German chemist
Andreas Marggraf in 1746, who was the first to
distinguish it as a new metal.
While chemists tried to handle zinc (formerly
known as Indian Tin) it was Dony who
discovered and patented a procedure for
processing and refining sheet zinc, today
50 Romain | The Gandré, Good Life Instagram: France@ rom_buff)
The Good Life France | 51

Postcard of Paris circa 1880 – the rooftops look as they do today
the fourth most commonly used metal in the
world. In 1805, Emperor Napoléon granted
him a monopoly for the exploitation of the zinc
mines of Moresnet, 50 kilometers east of Liège,
on condition that he pay an annual royalty
of 40,500 francs (approximately €15,000
today). Dony showed his gratitude to Napoleon
by presenting him with a zinc-lined bath.
Napoleon was so thrilled by its light weight
and utility that he took it on his subsequent
campaigns, including his invasion of Russia in
1812. The bath can still be seen at the Maison
de la Metallurgie et de l’Industrie in Liège.
But by 1813, Dony found himself unable to
pay the annual royalty and was forced to
sell his patent and mining rights. He died in
poverty in 1819. However, the company he
founded grew and prospered to become the
largest zinc-producing company in the world.
In 1837, the Société des Mines et Fonderies
de Zinc de la Vieille Montagne was created.
The new industrial uses of zinc with its
undeniable properties of flexibility, durability
and resistance to corrosion, arrived just when
Haussmann began transforming the city.
At that time, most Parisian roofs were made
of either wood, tile, or slate. New construction
on such a massive scale called for a faster
and more economical roofing material. Zinc
sheets were substantially lighter and easier
to install, and they protected buildings from
water damage. Zinc roofing could be used to
create curved shapes or sharply angled roofs,
allowing for more elaborate designs to suit the
aesthetics of the 19th century Belle Epoque,
including the creation of attic rooms, which
are highly sought-after living spaces today.
The exposed zinc rooftops, which still cover
85 percent of the iconic Parisian skyline owe
their beautiful patina to a natural process of
weathering, the softening of the colour belies
its durability and strength. The specialist
knowledge of around 500 Parisian couvreurszingueurs,
zinc roofers, who work year-round
to build, maintain, and repair the zinc-covered
roofs of Paris is essential to the continuation
of the zinc roofs. You’ll often spot them
perched on scaffolding preserving the iconic
roofs of Paris.
Sue Aran is a writer, photographer, and
tour guide living in the Gers department
of southwest France. She is the owner
of French Country Adventures, which
provides personally-guided, small-group, slow
travel tours into Gascony, the Pays Basque,
Provence and beyond.
52 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 53

Le Zinc – a French
favourite
Classic bars of France
Zinc didn’t just cover rooftops – it also
covered bars! From the 1800s, galvanised
zinc countertops were a standard feature
of French bars and cafés. In fact, they were
so popular that the term Le Zinc came
into use to describe bistros and cafés. The
expression “rendezvous au zinc” meaning
let’s meet at the bar is still in use today!
Emile Zola wrote in “The Belly of Paris”
published 1873: “In particular was the
counter… sumptuous, with its broad
expanse of silver polished bright. The
covering zinc overhung the red and white
marble base with a deep wavy border,
thus overlaying it with a silky sheen, a cloth of metal, like a high altar spread with its
embroideries.”
Zinc countertop at the Train Bleu restaurant, Gare de Lyon, Paris
During World War II, some of the metal tops were appropriated, nevertheless plenty
survived and can still be seen all over France. There’s not much to beat sitting on a stall at
local zinc bar with a glass of wine, imagining the people that have been here before you,
perhaps with a glass of absinthe, the drink of choice in the late 1800s
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Jardinieres, baths, jugs and more
Zinc proved to be such a versatile metal
that it was used to make galvanised
bathtubs, watering cans, jugs,
buckets, decorative window surrounds,
Jardinieres, wash tubs, tabletops and
buckets galore and they’re commonly
found at flea markets all over France.
Zinc treasures at a flea market, Montreuil-sur-Mer, Pas-de-Calais
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54 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 55

Secret France:
Medieval escapades
in the SEVEN
VALLEYS
Deep in the glorious countryside of Pas-de-
Calais, in the far north of France, history has
played its hand over and over. Janine Marsh
explores the medieval past of this secret part
of northern France.
The lush green valleys of Pas-de-Calais are
crossed by rivers and streams, woods and
forests, ancient turf bogs and osier beds where
willow is grown and coppiced. This is a place
shaped by battle, ruled at times by the English,
Spanish, Austrian and French, and it’s an area
which offers visitors a glimpse into centuries
past, as well as offering a taste of the tranquil
French way of life.
Although a small area it is very diverse, in
places flat, in others quite mountainous. Once
you turn off the main roads that cut through
the countryside you will find yourself in an
altogether different world. The undulating
wooded valleys and the traditional rural
architecture of the “fermettes”, long low
farmhouses, are truly lovely, especially in
spring when carpets of wood anemones and
bluebells cover the ground of the forests. And
along the banks of the rivers, towns, villages
and buildings have sprung up over centuries,
all with stories to tell.
English army led by King Henry V coming
up against a French army with many more
men, more food and more energy. But the
unthinkable happened, the English with their
formidable archers, won the day. The French
dead numbered some 6000 versus a few
hundred English lost (read more about this
historic battle here). Among the French dead
were hundreds of knights, the majority from
the north, Pas-de-Calais, Normandy, and
Picardy. Many were buried in the grounds
of local churches – 27 of them known to be
at the nearby Abbey of Auchy-lès-Hesdin
including Gallois de Fougières, the first
gendarme to die in combat.
Azincourt 1415
Several battles shaped the early history of
Pas-de-Calais, and one of the most famous
took place in Azincourt on October 25, 1415.
Picture a weary, hungry, and disease-ridden
Azincourt Centre
Discover all about the battle, the knights,
the local people and the life and times at
the Centre Azincourt 1415 where immersive
scenography brings history to life. Delve into
the contents of a medieval soldier’s bag, feel
56 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 57

Montreuil-sur-Mer
the weight of a knight’s sword, have a go at
reloading a crossbow, read poems of the day,
listen to music of the Middle Ages, and get an
understanding of the conflict and what led to
it at this fascinating museum.
The battle took place at nearby Tramecourt,
just down the road from the centre. Now
a charming, preserved village, a majestic
avenue of century-old lime trees leads to the
castle of the Marquis de Tramecourt and the
church, where members of the family lost to
the battle are buried.
Open year-round: azincourt1415.com
Montreuil-sur-Mer
The walled upper town of Montreuil-sur-
Mer perched on a plateau overlooking the
Canche Valley sounds like it’s on the nearby
Opal Coast (mer meaning sea), but in fact it’s
landlocked. In the Middle Ages though, it was
a thriving port town. Then the river Canche
which flowed at its base was navigable all the
way to the sea, now about 10km away. The
city was prosperous, much coveted and fought
Fressin chateau © Ronald Piclin
over by amongst others, Plantagenet Kings,
Burgundians, Spanish and English King Henry
VIII whose troops ran amok here in 1537.
The remains of the past are evident in the
town’s labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets,
ancient houses, the 12 th century Church of St
Saulve with its flamboyant-Gothic chapel, the
neo-gothic Chapelle de l’Hôtel-Dieu, founded
in 1200 and reconstructed in 1875 by Clovis
Normand, a pupil of Violet le Duc, and, at
the citadel with its chateau remains, parts of
which go back to the 13th Century. Inside the
porch entrance of the chateau are the Coats
of Arms of local knights who rode out from
here to die fighting against Henry V and his
army at Agincourt.
Enjoy the many bars and restaurants in the
town, including the Hauts de France, built
in 1537. And if you want more history, head
to the base of the town and explore the vast
Chartreuse de Neuville, a charterhouse
Fressin church
Vieil Hesdin
founded in 1323. Now open to the public,
it’s an extraordinary building with a
fascinating history, glorious gardens and
hosts concerts and exhibitions regularly.
destinationmontreuilloisencotedopale.com
Chateau de Fressin
The Chateau of Fressin was built in the early
1400s by Jean de Crequy, advisor to Philip
the Good, Duke of Burgundy. The chateau
was dismantled by Louis XIV in the 17th
century, but the remains are an impressive
reminder of its former glory and importance.
In the grounds of the ancient flamboyant-
Gothic style church of Saint Martin in the
lovely little village of Fressin, are the graves
of several knights who died at Azincourt
along with the entrails of King Henry V’s
uncle, Edward, Duke of York. A band of
French knights mistakenly thought they
had killed the English King and rejoiced,
causing huge confusion. The Duke’s bones
were taken back to England. Also interred in
the church is Jean IV of Crequy whose wife
Jeanne commissioned the chapel in 1425.
Visit the castle and its pretty gardens
(April to September) where events are
regularly held.
Vieil-Hesdin
Little remains of the once flourishing town
of Vieil-Hesdin, made prosperous thanks to
the wool processing industry that developed
here in the 11th century. It was surrounded by
ramparts and ditches around an impressive
castle, one-time base of Burgundian John the
Fearless, father of Philip the Good, and here
he manufactured his weapons and painted
his pennants. The gardens of the castle were
once legendary, filled with exotic beasts,
a glass chapel, and medieval automatons.
But in 1533, Charles V of Spain ordered its
destruction, and he then built a new Hesdin
just 6km away with a palace for his sister
Marie of Hungary. Now the town hall, the
58 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 59

Spanish coat of arms is still engraved above
the door.
There are still a few remains of the pleasure
palace that was once here, and you can
discover more about the town’s history at
the Vieil Hesdin Historic Site. Open April –
September
Donjon de Bours
The tranquil village of Bours is home to
a 14th century medieval castle, a rare
example of a knight’s residence in northern
France. You can take a guided tour of the
Donjon de Bours and discover the life of
a medieval lord, and the history of this
remarkable building which was fought over
by King Francis 1 of France and Holy Roman
Emperor Charles V in the early 1500s. Visit
a local boulangerie and you may see a cake
named in the latter’s honour – the digit de
Charles V, a long cream and jam filled bun
representing the Emperor’s gout-ridden
finger (it tastes much better than it sounds!).
Open year-round
Hesdin
Donjon de Bours © Jean Pierre Johannes
Commanderie du Bois-
Saint-Jean, Wamin
Close to Auchy-les-Hesdin are the
remarkably preserved buildings of the
Commandery of the Order of the Knights
Hospitallers of Saint John of Jerusalem.
Founded in the 12th century by Philip of
Alsace, it is next to the former park of
the Dukes of Burgundy. You can visit the
building, a stunning architectural example
of the Middle Ages, and take a stroll in the
glorious countryside around. Open
July/August.
You can purchase a Medieval Network
passport at local tourist offices for reduced
rates to all the places mentioned and
find out more on Escapades Medievales
Facebook page
Commanderie
Azincourt1415.com
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
Step back in time
and discover the past at
Azincourt 1415 historic centre
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

SPOTLIGHT ON:
Mirepoix
Medieval jewel of the Midi-Pyrénées
Mirepoix
Say ‘Mirepoix’ and if onions, celery and
carrots are the first thing that springs to
mind, it shows you know your way around
the kitchen. And in a roundabout way
(see below) the mirepoix you dice comes
from this charming medieval market town
located on the river Hers in the Ariège at the
crossroads of Toulouse, Carcassonne and
Foix, in the heart of Cathar country. Dana
Facaros explains…
With 600 members of the heretical Cathar
sect and a Cathar lord, Pierre-Roger de
Mirepoix, the town was an early target of
the Albigensian Crusade to eliminate them
all. Simon de Montfort captured Mirepoix
in 1209 and bestowed it on his right-hand
man, Guy de Lévis. The Lévis would rule
Mirepoix until the French Revolution, while
Pierre-Roger de Mirepoix went on to lead
the Cathar garrison in the lofty citadel of
Monségur. Here 225 Cathars were besieged
by the crusaders until they were starved out
in 1244. All preferred to be burned at the
stake rather than convert to Catholicism.
‘Mirepoix’ comes from Mira Peis (‘see the
fish’ in old Occitan), hence the golden fish
on the town’s coat of arms. Originally the
Mirapiciens looked at the fish from the right
bank of the river Hers, until a flooded dam
swept Mirepoix away in 1279, leaving only
its castle, the Château de Terride. Jean de
Lévi built a replacement town higher up on
the left bank and created, bastide-style, a
rectangular grid of streets around a market
square, with a church off to the side. The
Lévis rebuilt it after the Black Prince sacked it
in 1355 in the Hundred Years’ War. A decade
later English mercenaries, the Routiers burned
it down again.
A bit after the fact, Mirepoix was fortified: one
gate, the Porte d’Aval, is still intact.
But karma was done with Mirepoix, leaving
it one of the most beautiful (and biggest)
market squares in all Occitanie: the colourful,
112m by 55m Place des Couverts, lined with
wood pillared porticoes where merchants
could trade in all weathers. “The unique
half-timber framed houses around the
marketplace, naturally create a shopping
and restaurant arcade,” say locals Mark and
Kay Wilson of Real South of France Tours.
“And there are amazing wooden gargoyles
along some of the frontages.”
The best gargoyles and carvings (103 of them!)
adorn the ends of the beams of the Maison des
Consuls, once seat of the local magistrates.
© Stephane Meurisse Ariege Pyrenees Tourism
62 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 63

Because of its key location, Mirepoix has
always been an important market town, and
Place des Couverts is the perfect stage for
Mirepoix’s massive Monday morning market
as well as for festivals, including the Swing
à Mirepoix jazz on Easter weekend and the
themed Fête de la Pomme in October. The
local apple artists love a challenge: bulls
made of apples? Musical instruments? Tintin?
No problem!
Looming over all is the 58m tower of the
church of Saint-Maurice. The Lévis began it
in 1298, but in 1317 when the pope elevated
Mirepoix to a bishopric (part of the Church’s
scheme to keep a close eye on heresy danger
zones), they went a bit mad and carried on
building for the next six centuries. The nave
is a tour de force of southern Gothic, where
width rather than height was a thing: its 22.2m
single span nave is surpassed only by Girona’s
Cathedral (22.98m).
Walk along Avenue de Pont to see Mirepoix’s
other monument historique: an 800-year-old
holm oak, last survivor of the forest chopped
down to re-build the 13 th century town.
Even older is the remarkable three storey
Église Rupestre de Vals, 12km west of
Mirepoix. Partially built into the rock, a holy
site since the Bronze Age and once a temple
to a Celtic god, its mid-level is decorated 12 th
century Catalan frescoes. There’s no place in
France like it.
Mirepoix © Stephane Meurisse Ariege Pyreness Tourism
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And the Mirepoix?
One of the last dukes, Gaston Pierre de
Lévis-Mirepoix (1699-1757) despite being
“an incompetent and mediocre individual...
who owed his vast fortune to the affection
Louis XV felt toward his wife,” had a chef
who invented a sauce and named it after his
boss. The original version included wine and
meats, but over the decades mirepoix simply
came to mean the diced carrots, onions
and celery that you sauté to start dozens of
sauces, soups and stews.
Dana Facaros has lived in France for over
30 years. She is the creator of French
Food Decoder app: everything you want to
know about French food, and co-author of
the Bradt guide to Gascony & the Pyrenees.
Find out more about Mirepoix at:
ariegepyrenees.com
64 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 65

On the
WATERFRONT
Gillian Thornton explores the shoreline around Brittany’s Baie de Quiberon.
Cote Sauvage, Quiberon peninsula
liberally sprinkled across Brittany but nowhere
is there anything to rival Les Alignements at
Carnac, a short hop inland from the seashore.
Think menhirs. Lots and lots of menhirs. To
save you counting, there are more than 3000
of these ancient monuments, the majority
grouped in four clusters of serried lines that
stretch for 4 km and cover 40 hectares.
Impressive from any angle.
Standing stones
Saint-Pierre Quiberon
For an area that takes up a relatively modest
stretch of Brittany’s south coast, the Baie
de Quiberon boasts some pretty powerful
statistics. As the seagull flies, it’s barely 30 km
from the mouth of the Etel river in the west to
Pointe Kerpenhir in the east, but the shoreline
of this captivating area stretches for an
impressive 360 km around inlets and islands,
river banks and ocean shores.
Numbering just 24 communes, the Baie de
Quiberon boasts 50 sandy beaches, 25 km
of dunes, and 15 km of wild sea coast, whilst
inland, its lush, wooded interior is crisscrossed
by cycle tracks, walking trails and
bridleways. An outdoor playground, whatever
your chosen activity.
But there’s another side to this idyllic corner
of the Morbihan. Prehistoric monuments are
Auray Morbihan
I bag my first menhirs during a guided tour by
e-bike from Carnac where I collect my two
wheels from bike hire company A Bicyclette
and meet up with genial guide Alexandre
from Mobilboard. Following dedicated cycle
tracks and the occasional quiet lane, we
make regular stops along the five sandy
beaches of stylish Carnac-Plage and on
around the headland to the smart marina at
La Trinité-sur-Mer.
Then we loop inland and follow an off-road
track into sun-dappled woodland where a
line of menhirs borders the path at regular
intervals. It’s surprisingly humbling to touch
stones older than Stonehenge that were put
here by Neolithic settlers some 6,000 years
66 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 67

or many people at different times? Theories
and legends abound.
A public footpath runs around the perimeter
fence or you can join a motorised tour of
the complete site, but the only way you
can walk amongst the Ménec alignments is
on one of the excellent pre-booked tours.
One theory we learn is that the stones were
placed here as a warning to invaders from
the sea, in an era when the shoreline was
closer than it is now. But secretly, I hope we
never find out and the megaliths keep their
air of mystery.
Megaliths, La Trinite sur Mer
Menec alignments, Carnac
ago. And to come across a single giant stone
in the trees, the 6-metre Géant de Manio,
near the Kerlescan alignments. But there’s
more to come. From the top of a restored
windmill beyond the wood, we enjoy a highlevel
view over the 1029 menhirs of the
Kermario alignments, before finishing our
tour at Saint-Michel Chapel, perched on an
ancient burial mound 12 metres high.
I’m staying over in Carnac at Hôtel La Licorne
a short walk from the chic boutiques and
bustling restaurants of the town centre, where
I soak up the atmosphere and mull over my
day from a terrace table at La Sultana.
Next morning, I head to the Maison des
Megalithes beside the Ménec alignments
for an overview of these enigmatic stones,
currently part of an application for UNESCO
World Heritage status that includes Brittany’s
wider prehistoric monuments. Carnac still
poses a wealth of unanswered questions. What
were the stones actually for? Were they put
here by one group of people at the same time
Water all around
Next day, I enjoy a tranquil walk from
La Licorne through country lanes to
the headland overlooking the Quiberon
Peninsula. Named after the seaside town at
its tip, the Presqu’Ile de Quiberon is pretty
impressive as peninsulas go, so narrow at one
point that you can see both sides at once.
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68 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 69

Etel river cruise
Oyster beds looking towards Quiberon peninsula
Atlantic sunset from Hotel des Deux Mers
South of Penthièvre, it fattens out sufficiently
to accommodate holiday homes, walking
trails and quiet beaches, as well as a
peak-season railway, Le Tire Bouchon or
‘corkscrew’, which avoids the single road
leading to Quiberon and all points seawards.
Activity cranks up considerably in this upbeat
little seaside town in summer as passengers
flock to ferries for the popular holiday
island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer and its smaller
neighbours, Houat and Hoedic.
I want to enjoy the wilder Côte Sauvage on
the Atlantic side of the peninsula so I stay at
the charming Hôtel des Deux Mers nestled
in pine trees at Saint-Pierre-Quiberon. After
a relaxed evening at Les Canailles, a barguingette
in the village centre, I watch the
sun set over the ocean and next morning walk
the tide-washed sand before breakfast. An
enchanting way to start and finish any day.
In glorious summer sunshine, I could easily
spend a few days exploring the area. The
medieval town of Auray and the nearby
river port of Saint-Goustan; Europe’s largest
menhir at Locmariaquer beside the Golfe
du Morbihan; and the ‘wild dunes’ from
Gâvres to Quiberon, largest natural area on
the Breton coast and classified Grand Site
de France.
But with limited time, I choose to explore the
liquid thoroughfare that divides the Baie de
Quiberon from Lorient to the west. Technically
it’s a ria – or drowned river bed – stretching
inland for 22 km but locals refer to the
Etel river. Pick up one of the regular cruise
excursions with Navix from the fishing port
of Etel to see historic waterside communities
such as Saint-Cado and experience tranquil
creeks, salt marshes, and dramatic currents.
A different kind of magic in an area already
infused with myth and mystery.
https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
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70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71

Cyrano de Bergerac statue in the town centre
© Pays de Bergerac Tourisme
BERGERAC –
secret Dordogne
Even if you can’t pinpoint it on a map, the
town of Bergerac will almost certainly sound
familiar. Standing amongst the vineyards of
south-west France, this bustling community of
around 27,000 people is the second largest
town in the department of Dordogne after
Perigueux. But Bergerac’s biggest claim to
fame is through a man with only a distant
connection to the town.
Parisian by birth, 17 th century novelist and
playwright Hercule Savinien de Cyrano grew
up on a family estate outside Paris, given
to its original owner by King Charles VI for
his contribution in capturing Bergerac from
the English. So, when young Hercule joined
the Gascon Musketeers, he bracketed ‘de
Bergerac’ to his family name as something of
a personal statement. After a brief military
career, Cyrano de Bergerac led a short but
colourful life as part of the libertine movement
of literature, dying in an accident in Paris in
1655 aged just 36.
And there the story might have ended, had it
not been for a play written nearly 250 years
later. In 1897, Edmond Rostand created a
work of fiction loosely based on Cyrano, but
portraying him as a gifted Gascon poet with a
very large nose, who secretly loves his cousin
© Pays de Bergerac Tourisme
Roxane but believes he is unattractive to
women. The story of how Cyrano woos her
with his poetry on behalf of a friend has
been acted out on stage, television and
cinema screens ever since. And today you
can admire his facial physique in two statues
that grace the Art & History town that
shares his name.
Bergerac’s historic quarter is a pleasant
place to while away a few hours with its
ancient streets and bustling marketplace.
Or maybe take a boat trip in a traditional
Dordogne barge or gabarre. First-time
visitors are also surprised to find France’s
only Tobacco Museum, a discovery centre for a
plant once widely grown in the area.
But the surrounding area is packed with interest
too, from heritage towns to lush countryside,
riverside walks to some of France’s Most
Beautiful Villages. And if you have even a
passing interest in wine, you can soak up the
vineyard atmosphere first hand with a stay at
Chateau Masburel, west of Bergerac near the
village of Fougueyrolles.
Bergerac lies in the area known as Purple
Périgord, a land of vineyards that morphs into
the Bordeaux region. Successive owners at
Chateau Masburel have produced wine here
since 1740 when both chateau and vineyard
were planted by a Consul to King Louis XV. Over
the centuries, the vineyard became established
within the Montravel appellation, whose chief
function is to produce the top Bergerac wines
grand crus. Exclusively producing both sweet
and dry white wines until 200l, Montravel also
now includes excellent red vintages.
Today the vines at Chateau Masburel are in
the capable hands of Chris Walker and Irma
Lazickiene who also welcome guests to their
72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73

Chateau de Masburel
four themed bedrooms, each with en-suite
and vineyard views, as well as to the Tapestry
Gîte, separate from the main chateau with
two luxury bedrooms. Stay on site and you
can tour the 19 hectares of vineyards, taste
the vintages and buy from the vineyard shop at
your leisure.
Whether you love wine, history, or just the
irresistible pull of ancient stones, Chateau
Masburel makes a great base for a holiday in
the Dordogne and surrounding area. Take a
40-minute drive west to Saint-Emilion, another
iconic name known across the wine-drinking
world. This enchanting town tumbles down
a steep hillside in a maze of historic streets.
Don’t miss the monolithic church hewn out of
the rock in the 12 th century, the Romanesque
keep, or the Cordeliers cloister. And don’t
leave without tasting the town’s signature
macaroons made with ground almonds. Oh,
and the famous red wine of course!
If you can’t resist a historic village, there are
three within 90 minutes of Masburel that are
classified amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de
France. Closest is Monpazier, just over an hour
to the south. Founded in 1284 by King Edward
I of England, this medieval fortified town still
retains its arcaded central square and original
grid street pattern.
Nearby Belvès dominates the verdant valley
of the Nauze river and offers panoramic views
over the Périgord Noir region. Besieged seven
times by English soldiers during the Hundred
Years War and by Protestant forces in the
Wars of religion, Belvès still boasts troglodyte
cave dwellings and fine buildings from the
Middle Ages and Renaissance.
Also listed amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages
is Limeuil at the junction of the Dordogne
and Vézère rivers, once a trading centre that
bustled with the comings and goings of barges
and boatmen. Walk up to the panoramic
themed gardens of the castle park and don’t
miss the frescoes at Chapelle Saint-Martin,
one of the most beautiful Romanesque
chapels in the Périgord.
Chief town of the Dordogne department and
capital of the White Périgord, Périgueux is
Chris Walker and Irma Lazickiene
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74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

© Pays de Bergerac Tourisme
around an hour’s drive north of the Masburel
domaine and a definite must-do. Dominating
the town is the UNESCO-listed cathedral of St
Front, embellished with domes and minarets,
and restored in the 19 th century by Paul Abadie
who later used it as a model for the Sacré
Coeur in Montmartre. Today Saint-Front is still
an important stopping point on the pilgrims’
route to Santiago de Compostela.
The town retains many timber-framed houses
and fortified properties from the Middle Ages
and the historic centre includes a cobbled
artisan district that is home to bookbinders,
blacksmiths and many other traditional trades.
But visitors can step back even further in time
at Vesunna, the remains of a large Gallo-
Roman villa right in the heart of town, that are
now protected by a glass building designed by
architect Jean-Nouvel.
And if Périgueux whets your appetite for an
urban fix, head off in the other direction to
Bordeaux, a journey of less than 90 minutes
whether you drive or take the train. Highlights
include a vast water mirror reflecting elegant
facades and changing skies; Cité du Vin, an
Bergerac
interactive centre showcasing wines from
across the world; and a wealth of restaurants,
boutiques and museums.
But the lure of the vineyards and valleys,
the water and woodland of Dordogne
will eventually pull you back out to the
countryside. And what better way to end a
day of discovery than with a glass of Bergerac
wine and a view of the vineyards? Santé!
Find more info at: Chateau-masburel.com;
pays-bergerac-tourisme.com/en
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76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

Rosa Bonheur - an
artist remembered
If you were to ask who the most famous, highly
paid artist of the 19th century was in France,
the names Ingres, Manet, Monet, Renoir,
Degas, Cézanne and Van Gogh would most
likely be cited by most people. And they’d all
be wrong. It was a female animal portraitist,
Rosa Bonheur who held the no. 1 position.
However, she fell into complete oblivion in the
20th century. Christina Mackenzie explores
Rosa Bonheur’s extraordinary story – and how
her art is being found by a new audience…
Rosa Bonheur’s resuscitation as an artist over
the past five years is entirely due to Katherine
Brault and her family, who have single-handedly
put the forgotten painter firmly back in the
limelight. They didn’t set out to do so, but Brault,
who had not heard of the artist previously,
stumbled across Bonheur’s former home, the
Château de By, whilst house-hunting in the
Seine-et-Marne department. Returning Bonheur
to her deserved place amongst the 19th century’s
greatest artists has become her life’s work.
The Château de By sits upstream from Paris
atop the banks of the river Seine in the small
town of Thomery. Thanks to Brault and her
daughters, the château is now not only the
Brault family home and the Rosa Bonheur
museum, but also a very nice tea-room and
guesthouse.
Brault, nominated as one of the 100 Women
of Culture 2022, is a native of Fontainebleau,
some seven kilometres west of Thomery.
In 2014, after working in communications,
gastronomy, and coaching visual artists, Brault
decided to return to her hometown in the
wake of a divorce and establish “a cosy, multifunctional
guest-house in a large 18th century
house.” No such house was on the market, so
an estate agent suggested she encompass
78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79

The very large painting
hangs in the Metropolitan
Museum of Art in New York
while a smaller version
is held by the National
Gallery in London.
When the animals died,
Bonheur had them stuffed
and mounted so they stayed
with her on the walls from
where they still glassily stare
down at visitors!
the 19th century and visit the Château de
By which had been on the market with all its
contents for 10 years.
“It was way too expensive for me: €3.5
million! My budget was €1.5 million,” Brault
laughs. But the estate agent told her the sale
price was “widely negotiable” and then left her
alone to wander around the property for three
hours. Despite the dust and cobwebs she fell
in love with it. In the artist’s studio, she recalls
finding herself “in front of the large portrait of
Rosa Bonheur and having the impression she
was laughing at me, as if to say ‘Ha! Here you
are at last!’”
The studio was almost exactly as it was in
1899 when Bonheur died. The château’s
two owners, brothers, only came for a few
weekends and holidays to undertake repairs
and do a bit of maintenance. The house had
cost them their marriages and vast sums of
money. They were so delighted that Brault
was interested that they reduced the price by
€1 million!
Brault struggled for three years seeking
subsidies, bank loans and partners for the
rest of the money. Eventually she was able to
buy everything except the items exhibited in
the house. She paid rent for them to the two
brothers for three years until an arrangement
was reached with the Seine-et-Marne
department who bought them for €400,000.
The museum opened on June 1, 2018.
Brault’s hard work and tenacity resulted in her
wining funding from the Loto du Patrimoine, a
project managed by French journalist Stéphane
Bern. On 20 Sept. 2019, President Emmanuel
Macron and his wife Brigitte (wearing trousers
in honour of Bonheur’s special dispensation
necessary in the 19th century to allow her
to wear them in public instead of a dress!),
accompanied by Bern, came to the château
with a cheque for €500,000. The award
enabled Brault to repair parts of the roof, the
facade of Bonheur’s studio, various beams, the
dovecote on the roof and the winter garden
whose structure was designed by none other
than Gustave Eiffel!
Meanwhile the attics full of notebooks,
sketches, animal skins and spiders are slowly
revealing their secrets. Amongst the most
significant was a large canvas rolled up in the
dust which turned out to be the first version of
Bonheur’s most famous work “The Horse Fair”.
Marie-Rosalie Bonheur was
born on 16 March 1822,
in Bordeaux to Sophie
Dublan de Lahet (known
as Marquis) and Raymond
Bonheur, an artist. The
eldest and most talented of four siblings who all
became artists (Auguste and Juliette, painters,
and Isidore, a sculptor), she was taught by her
father. But when she was 10, he joined the
Saint-Simoniens movement (a sort of utopian
socialism, a movement which influenced Karl
Marx), leaving his family penniless. Sophie died
of exhaustion in 1833 aged just 36. She was
buried in the paupers’ grave in Montmartre
cemetery. Her death had a considerable
influence on the life of her daughter, whom she
affectionately called Rosa.
Bonheur was convinced animals have a soul.
She studied animal anatomy by attending
cattle fairs and visiting slaughterhouses. But
her presence amongst cattle drovers and
butchers led to much ribaldry and vulgarity
so she asked for a special permit to wear
trousers. The French law forbidding women
from wearing trousers was only lifted in 2013,
even if nobody had abided by it for years!
Brault has not found “a single pair of trousers”
amongst Bonheur’s things in the Château, but
has found countless dresses and skirts.
Bonheur was able to live very comfortably
from her earnings as an artist. She bought the
Château de By, which borders Fontainebleau
forest, with the proceeds from just one sale:
40,000 francs (€80,000) for “The Horse
Fair” which sold again during her lifetime
for 208,000 francs the equivalent today of
€416,000!
Bonheur turned the Chateau into quite the zoo,
keeping a wide range of animals from sheep
and eagles to a couple of lions and a parrot.
Another of Bonheur’s
precious possessions still
in the Château is an outfit
gifted to her by Buffalo Bill
who spent six months in
Paris in 1889 with his Wild
West show at the World Fair. Bonheur wanted
to meet him so he could tell her how to train
the two Mustang horses she’d been given by a
wealthy American, and to introduce her to his
bisons. She spoke no English, so an interpreter
was found - Anna Klumpke, a 33-yearold
American portraitist who lived in Paris.
Following their meeting, the two women kept
in touch and in 1898 at the age of 76, Bonheur
agreed to let Klumpke paint her portrait.
Klumpke temporarily moved to the château to
work on the portrait and ended up also writing
Bonheur’s memoirs.
Bonheur died May 25, 1899. Klumpke inherited
everything and left Bonheur’s studio as it was.
Even the cigarette butts are still there!
The Brault family are restoring the Château de
By in such a way that were Rosa Bonheur to
return she would find her paints, paintbrushes,
and apron almost exactly where she left them
124 years ago.
You can book a guided tour of the Museum
Rosa Bonheur at: chateau-rosa-bonheur.fr
80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81

Beautiful, bucolic,
vine-blessed
BEAUJOLAIS
North of Lyon and south of Burgundy lies
Beaujolais, an area whose name everyone
knows but very few have visited. A secret
place of hills and vineyards, of ancient gold
stone-coloured villages where the local
bistro serving the sort of grub that warms the
cockles of your heart is at the centre of daily
life, and where Romanesque style churches
and majestic castles dot the landscape.
Famous the world over for its Beaujolais
Nouveau wine, it’s a part of France that the
French know about, and the rest of us don’t –
but should, says Janine Marsh.
Beaujolais, in the Rhone-Alpes region, is
around 34 miles long and 9 miles wide at its
widest point and almost half of it is covered
in vines. Much of the rest is either pasture or
forest, a land of hills packed tightly together
giving it the nickname “little Switzerland”
for its alpine feel. It is almost a secret place,
unspoiled and uncrowded.
The young world-famous Beaujolais
Nouveau is just one small part of the local
wine story - vines were planted here long
before the Romans arrived. And one of the
most fascinating places to find out more, is
the wine theme park Hameau Duboeuf at
Romanèche-Thorins. Yes, you read that right.
A theme park dedicated to wine. And if you
think that doesn’t sound like fun – you could
not be more wrong. It’s unique, fascinating
and fun for all the family. It was created by
Georges Duboeuf, the greatest wine merchant
in Beaujolais, possibly in France and the man
who put Beaujolais Nouveau on the world’s
wine map. Released on the third Thursday
of November each year, it might make a big
splash, but it’s not what Beaujolais is all about.
The non-nouveau wines are nothing like their
younger family member, they range from soft
and fresh to rich, robust and magnificent.
Hameau Duboeuf is no ordinary theme park.
A friend had told me that he stumbled across
this place, “we arrived at 9am. I thought I’d
be there an hour, I’m not really into wine
museums - we were still there at 6pm. It’s that
good.” Well, he’s not wrong and in fact it’s
even better now following the opening in 2023
© Inter Beaujolais, Floriane Tanneur
The train carriage of Napoleon III, Hameau Duboeuf
82 Château | The de Good Jarnioux Life © France François De Clavière
The Good Life France | 83

Route des Vins Photo © Etienne Ramousse, Destination Beaujolais
of a new exhibition in the old train station
opposite. Having acquired a coach belonging
to the Emperor Napoleon III (born 1808, died
1873) the theme park management reimagined
the 1855 meeting of Queen Victoria of Great
Britain and Napoleon III of France at the famed
Entente Cordiale meeting. But in the Hameau
Duboeuf scenario, it features an enchanting
train journey where of course everyone drinks
Beaujolais wine! In the ancient ticket office,
a costumed station master leads you through
a curtained entrance to see the train and
experience … well to be honest it’s hard to
find the words to describe it – a musical, visual
extravaganza that recalls the famous meeting
with a spectacular sound and light show that
features fireworks and singing statues. It’s a bit
like stepping into the wardrobe of Narnia and
finding yourself in an enchanted world.
I promise you won’t have been to any wine
museum quite like this. There is a vast collection
of wine paraphernalia going back centuries.
Mannequins are based on real people. There
are films, music, interactive displays – I loved
the simulated ride over the vineyards in the
company of bumble bees, quite bonkers but it
leaves you grinning. There’s a superb restaurant,
gardens and mini-golf. And a fabulous wine
Tasting bar and restaurant at Hameau Duboeuf
tasting area that looks like a Belle Époque train
station. I tried several wines as I listened to
the knowledgeable sommeliers talk about the
Gamay grape that’s prominent in Beaujolais,
and how the wine is matured in barrels which
are then sold on to Cognac and whisky makers.
For a quite different wine tasting, head to
nearby Maison Jean Loron where they’ve
been making wine since 1771. Book a
wine tasting tour in English at least 24h
in advance, and you will dive deep into
the process of wine making. 6 oenologists
blend and analyse wines on site, and if
you’re really into wine, you can do a private
workshop with them. In the ancient cellar
are 40 vintages, and you can taste wine
direct from the barrel. Sophie the guide, is
a fountain of knowledge and answered my
many questions with patience: ‘why does this
taste peppery?” – the barrels! ‘What should
I drink with chocolate?’ Sweet red wine. All
whilst indulging in a tasting of 5 wines with a
perfect pairing of cheese and charcuterie.
Wine tasting Maison Jean Loron
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84 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 85

Beaujonomie at Bistrot Beaujolais in Theizé
Secret courtyard in Villefrhance-sur-Saone
By this stage
I was a total
Beaujolais
fan, blown
away by the
soft reds,
the delicious
whites, the
rare rosés.
94% of
the wine
produced in
Beaujolais
is red, 4%
white wine
2% rose.
The area
is also
famous for
lemonade,
chestnut
liqueur,
and orange
liqueur.
Travel the
140km Beaujolais wine route and you’ll enjoy
some of the finest wines ever made including
10 crus (high quality), the most spectacular
scenery, welcoming villages and sensational
food.
Beaujolais sits on the Vallée de la
Gastronomie, a 640km foodie route from
the north to the south of France. Pretty much
every village in Beaujolais boasts a bistro
where you’ll be fed like a lord, and where it
feels like everything is cooked in wine – from
poultry to peas and pears! The locals call their
delicious cuisine ‘beaujonomie.’
I loved Bistro Beaujolais in the charming
village of Theizé, a warm welcome is assured,
along with a fabulous glass of wine and gutbusting
dishes that make your soul soar.
Peppered with beautifully preserved medieval
chateaux and churches the Pays Beaujolais
countryside is green and rolling, dotted with
perched villages. To the south, the area is
known as Pierres Dorées (golden stone),
86 | The Good Life France 87 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 87

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Clochemerle Photo © Etienne Ramousse, Destination Beaujolais
reflecting the use of local ferrous stone in 39
villages, it turns from pale gold at dawn to a
rich apricot colour as the sun dips. Don’t miss
a visit to Oignt, officially one of the prettiest
villages in France with narrow cobbled
streets dripping with flowers, dozens of artists
workshops, cosy bars, beautiful houses, and
a stonking view over the countryside. There’s
also a fascinating music museum filled with
music boxes and hurdy gurdies – a sort of 19th
century juke box, including the coin-operated
type that was in almost every French train
station by the late 1800s!
Bustling Villefranche-sur-Saône, the
administrative capital of Beaujolais, is home
to one of France’s oldest markets held since
the 12th century (Mondays). Take a guided
tour, or an interactive audio guide and map
from the tourist office which you’ll find nestled
in an ancient courtyard, and mooch along rue
Nationale finding secret buttons you can push
to enter into private courtyards to see the
ancient mansions.
Wherever you go, you’ll discover more gems,
Beaujeu, the historic capital of Beaujolais,
Vaux-en-Beaujolais, the inspiration for Gabriel
Theizé
Chevallier’s famous novel Clochemerle, and
Chateau de la Chaize, built by the brother
of Louis XIV’s Confessor, home to the largest
vaulted wine caves in the region. In Beaujolais
it always goes back to the wine, just as it has
for hundreds of years.
Tourism: www.destination-beaujolais.com
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88 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 89

Pickled in the past
CAHORS
is full of charm
Gillian Thornton visits Cahors in the Lot Valley on her trip through the
heart of Occitanie
Any walker who follows one of the French
pilgrim trails to Santiago de Compostela in
Spain is guaranteed a heady mix of natural
landscapes and beautiful buildings. But few
can compete with the Pont Valentré that
spans the river Lot at Cahors.
A major landmark on the Via Podensis from
Le Puy-en-Velay in Auvergne, this medieval
bridge with its three defensive towers is a
wow from any angle, but especially when
reflected in still blue water. Open to traffic
until 1983, Pont Valentré is now purely
pedestrian and wherever I stand, I simply
can’t resist another photo.
North-west of Toulouse in the Occitanie region
of South-West France, Cahors is the principal
town of the Lot department, surrounded on
three sides by steep hills and nestled inside
one of the many tight meanders carved out of
the landscape over the centuries.
The native Gauls worshipped Divona, goddess
of underground water, at a gushing spring
here beside the Lot – a site now known as
the Fontaine des Chartreux – but it was the
Romans who founded the town of Divona
within the meander where three roads met.
Arrive by road today and Cahors is an ideal
base for exploring the beautiful Lot Valley. Or
take the train from Toulouse in less than 90
minutes, just one of many route options on
the Occitanie Rail Tour. Whatever your mode
of transport, the family-run Hotel Terminus
Oldest house in Cahors, 12th century
90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91

is well situated opposite the station and just
ten minutes’ walk from the historic old town.
Expect Art Nouveau stained glass, traditional
atmosphere, and seasonal dishes in the
Bistro 1911.
I start by picking up a free map at the Tourist
Office in Place Mitterand, separated from
the historic Old Town by Boulevard Léon
Gambetta, a broad thoroughfare on the line
of the medieval ramparts. Gambetta’s father
ran a grocery shop beside the Cathedral
and young Léon, born in 1838, went on to
become a lawyer and republican politician
who played a prominent role in the Third
Republic from 1870.
Next door to the Tourist Office, the Cahors
Malbec Lounge is the go-to spot for
understanding the Lot Valley’s famous wines.
Not just red, I discover, but white, rose and
sparkling too, served here in traditional local
glasses that incorporate a ring of glass in the
stem. Choose from four tasting options from 6
to 16 euros per person.
Guilhem, my wine guide, explains that of the
70 domaines and 180 wine makers within
Appelation Lot, 80% are independent, the
others part of a co-operative. And whilst the
grapes are mostly Malbec, blends can include
up to 30% of other local varieties. The Malbec
Lounge showcases up to six domaines each
week to help visitors find their favourite and
maybe book a vineyard visit.
Tasting over, I turn my back on the Old Town for
a while and head west for the short walk across
the isthmus to Pont Valentré, built – very slowly
– in the 13 th Century close to the Fontaine
des Chartreux. With its six arches and three
imposing towers, this unique medieval bridge
is listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of
Santiago de Compostela in France.
On a small grassy bank beside the first tower,
I’m surprised to find rows of vines that turn
out to be more than just an advertisement
for the area’s liquid treasure. ‘The Garden of
Inebriation’ is the start of the town’s Secret
Gardens itinerary, a self-guided trail of 21
themed plots that are an intrinsic part of
Cathedral, Cahors
Le Jardin Mauresque– Moorish 'Secret Garden
Henri Martin/ Vignes en automne © City of Cahors, A Laoudouar
Henri Martin/ La Bastide © City of Cahors, A Laoudouar
local life. Launched in 2002, they gained
Remarkable Garden status in 2006 and are
maintained on eco-friendly principles. Organic
matter is recycled; beds regularly mulched;
and plants chosen for their suitability to
climate and soil. Pick up the free annotated
trail guide.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Divona
retreated to land on the eastern side of the
isthmus. Enclosed with a ditch and ramparts
in the 7 th century, the town grew steadily in
importance thanks to its road and river trade
links, attracting merchants, bankers and
medieval entrepreneurs. Stroll today through
the heart of the historic town and you can
still see their imposing houses with arcades
for shops and workshops at street level and
elegant windows above, the accolade of oldest
property in town going to the half-timbered
corner house at 12 Rue de la Daurade.
The nearby Cathedral of St Stephen boasts
two of the largest cupolas in south-west
France and an ornate carved tympanum as
well as vestiges of medieval wall paintings.
And I find several Secret Gardens nearby
including a colourful Moorish Garden with its
bright mosaics and running water; the raised
beds of the Monks’ Kitchen Garden; and
the Flower Garden providing altar flowers
for the Cathedral. For an allergy-friendly
restaurant with a different menu every day, try
Restaurant Marie Colline nearby.
I have another treat in store before leaving
Cahors. Crossing back across Boulevard
Gambetta, I come to the Henri Martin
Museum, reopened in May 2022 in the former
Bishop’s palace after major refurbishment.
This unmissable museum is dedicated to the
celebrated post-Impressionist painter, born in
1860 in Toulouse and a lifelong lover of the Lot
countryside. In 1900, Henri Martin bought the
Domaine de Marquayrol, 23 km from Cahors
where he spent five months every summer
painting local scenes.
The new-look museum brings together on
three floors an eclectic range of exhibits
acquired by the City of Cahors including
92 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 93

LE MOULIN
SUR CÉLÉ
An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley
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Saint cirq-Lapopie
archaeological finds, work by artists from the
Quercy region, and a collection based around
Léon Gambetta. But pride of place goes
to Martin himself. Visitors to Toulouse may
already know his huge wall paintings inside the
Capitole building, but this enchanting museum
boasts the largest public collection of his
works, amongst them scenes of Cahors and
the Lot Valley.
Inspired by Martin’s paintings, I need no
further excuse to head east along the river
for a welcome return to one of his favourite
subjects. St Cirq Lapopie is classified amongst
France’s Most Beautiful Villages, named after
the child martyr Saint Cyr and one of the
three feudal families who administered the
village. No car? Catch the bus linking Cahors
with Figeac and walk up to the village perched
high above the Lot.
St-Cirq-Lapopie buzzes by day with visitors
come to browse the small galleries, eat at the
restaurants, and just soak up the medieval
atmosphere of houses from the 13 th to 15 th
Centuries. But only a couple of dozen people
live permanently in the steep cobbled streets
that lead to the ruined hilltop chateau. Book a
room and you can have the village to yourself.
Maison Lapopie, foreground left, at St Cirq Lapopie
I dine on delicious confit duck leg at the
Gourmet Quercynois, rightly popular for its
authentic regional cuisine, and stay in a huge
room with valley views at Maison Lapopie, a
delightful B&B that offers tranquillity in the
extreme. The owners live off site, so your key
awaits you in the door and breakfast arrives
in a picnic basket to enjoy at your private
window table.
Next morning, I take a quiet stroll through
deserted streets before heading back down to
river level for a tranquil towpath walk towards
Bouziès, departure point for seasonal river
cruises. Then I’m back on the road for the
scenic drive to Figeac and a journey back to
ancient Egypt … join me there in our next issue.
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94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

ViaRhôna:
From the
Alpes to the
Mediterranean
© Beegoo/Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Tourisme
For some, going on a journey is not just about
reaching the destination. It’s about enjoying
the process of the journey, the discovery of
the surroundings which we find ourselves in as
we move towards the destination says Amy
Macpherson as she traces the path of the
Rhône river through the villages and towns
that line its banks, from the Alps to the sea.
My journey followed the route of the
ViaRhôna, one of France’s newest, still
developing cycle routes which, when
completed, will take explorers on a slow
journey of 505 miles (813 km). The entire
trip would normally take around two weeks,
it was time I didn’t have. So I began at a
halfway point, from the town of Vienne whose
history stretches back to the Celtic period in
5BC, before becoming the ancient capital of
Roman Gaul, and where the mighty Empire
built two amphitheatres and a forum. Today
Vienne is a vibrant city which hosts one of the
most popular jazz festivals in France.
Before I set off, I needed supplies, bikepacking
is hungry work. Vienne has a plethora
of delicious bakeries and chocolateries. Try
the galet du Rhône at Panel chocolaterie,
a local favourite for almost a century, the
hazelnut, praline and almond concoction in a
nougatine shell, dipped in rich chocolate and
smothered in dark chocolate powder is utterly
scrumptious. And La Fromagerie Viennoise
stocks delicious cheeses, perfect paired
with a crispy baguette. While you’re in the
city, don’t miss a visit to the Roman Temple
of Augustus and the Gallo-Roman ruins at
Jardin de Cybèle.
Chestnut products at the market
© Max-Coquard-Bestjobers Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes Tourism
96 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 97

The might Rhone River changes as it flows from the alpes to the sea
Vineyards and ruins on the hill in Tournon sur Rhone
Vineyards and farmlands dot this stretch of
the ViaRhôna, and the entire way was lined
with apricot trees full of lusciously ripened
fruits. Arriving in Tournon-sur-Rhône in time
for lunch, I stopped off at the La Péniche
Slow Food Café on a barge. It is so easy to
simply while away the hours gazing at the river
from the café, but there’s lots to see and do
in nearby Tournon St Jean. You can hop on a
historic train – steam or diesel with your bike
and see the stunning countryside – the Doux
Valley and its gorges. Or take the market train
which stops off at some of the best markets
in Ardèche, fill your basket with fresh fruit,
chestnuts, the local Picodon goats’ cheese
and more.
Le Mastrou steam train which runs between Tournon and Lamastre
On a bright and sunny late Spring morning,
I peddled across the river onto the official
ViaRhôna path, leaving the traffic and the
sounds of Vienne behind me. The fully sign
posted and traffic-free greenway follows the
route of the Rhône River flowing alongside.
To the right is the Pilat regional nature park,
treating riders to a soundtrack of birdsongs
and cricket chirps among the trees that
provide shade.
Other than occasional cyclists or walkers,
I was mostly alone. I watched the Rhône
change as the light of the day moved from
east to west, and by the time I reached
my destination for the day, having already
stopped briefly in between for a quick lunch
break, the river was like a sheet of dark silvery
steel. That night, I stayed in a lovely Gite in the
village of Sablons and was treated to a warm
welcome and a hearty home cooked feast.
The Rhône is the only major river system that
flows from the glacier source near Geneva,
all the way to the mouth of the river at the
Mediterranean Sea. Its mood changes with
the environment. The next day, as I woke to
the light of the morning and pushed out onto
the greenway to continue after breakfast,
the river had also awoken to a shade of pine
green, slowly shedding its Alpine milky-blue
character as it flows towards the warmer
southern climate.
Montelimar Photo/ G.Reynard Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes Tourism
Pedal across the bridge to the Tain
L'Hermitage side of the river and make a
beeline for the Cité du Chocolat ValRhôna
museum and shop. And squeeze in a visit to
the Côtes du Rhône vineyards which reach
down to town’s streets. Row after row of
carefully positioned Syrah, Marsannes and
Roussanes vines, supported by dry stone
terraces, blanket the hills that flank the river.
You can hike, bike or segway your way around
the vineyards or take the little tourist train up
to the top for some fantastic views. Make time
for a wine tasting at Maison M. Chapoutier,
their 2020 Chante-Alouette white is
particularly excellent!
Onwards and southwards I rode, towards the
sunny city of Valence, where I stayed in the
cyclist friendly Hôtel Les Négociants where I
was greeted like an old friend. I stayed just one
night in each place I visited but, you may be
tempted to linger longer. Valence’s charming
gardens and buildings with history carved into
their walls, its wonderful museum and fabulous
wine shops will tempt you to stay, but for me it
was time to set off again after a quick visit.
The terrain starts to become wilder from
this part, the paved greenways occasionally
become compact dirt tracks. It is an uplifting
journey, with sweeping views of the mighty
Rhône which by now is wider and wilder,
breaking off into short tributaries.
Valence
98 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 99

The Himalayan footbridge -la Passerelle de Rochemaure-
In between bigger cities like Lyon, Valence
and Avignon, there are multiple beautifully
preserved historic villages that are hardly
known to visitors. As I followed the itinerary, I
passed the pickled-in-the-past Pouzin, pretty
Baix and Montélimar, famous for its nougat.
At the cute little commune of Rochemaure
the route crosses the curious Himalayan-style
footbridge (la Passerelle de Rochemaure).
And in the evening, I reached Viviers, a quiet
medieval village, and the perfect place to
spend the night.
Of course, even in the most well-planned
journeys through the most beautiful places,
there are sometimes imperfections. The
next day, my final day of cycling, it rained.
I contemplated the train station about five
minutes ride away. I could ‘cheat’ and take
the train to Avignon in Provence, my final
destination. Bikes can be taken on regional
French trains for free, making it easy to plan
for days like this on a cycle tour. On the other
hand, I was curious. I had followed the river
thus far, watched it twist and change, enjoyed
witnessing the life along its banks. So, with my
wet weather gear on, I pushed on..
And it turned out to be a great choice. Rain
makes it harder to see the sights, but it brings
Viviers
out the fragrances of the earth. Between sleepy
Lapalud and Caderousse are fields of lavender
and sunflowers, their scent perfumed the air,
making me forget that I was cycling in the rain.
Instead, I found myself humming all the way to
the Papal City, entering via the newly opened
Île de la Barthelasse, a grand entrance to the
end of my trip.
The ViaRhôna itinerary has so many villages
and towns to visit along the way, but the
real highlight may be the simple pleasure of
cycling alongside the majestic Rhône, through
the tranquil and idyllic countryside - the joy of
a true journey.
Visit en.viarhona.com for further information
including where to rent a bike (there are
several companies along the route, cyclefriendly
accommodation and heaps more.
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100 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 101

Jeremy Flint visits Sarlat-la-Canéda in Dordogne and highlights the best things to
see and do in the area.
Sarlat © Pat Bruce
Sarlat-la-Canéda –
and around
Sarlat © Maureen Shay Martinez
The old town of Sarlat-la-Canéda, in the
heart of the Périgord Noir in Southeast
Dordogne, dates to Gallo-Roman times at
least. But it underwent a period of growth
during the Middle Ages, developing around
the Cathedral Saint-Sacerdos, which is
mentioned in records as early as the year
1081. Today, Sarlat is one of the most beautiful
preserved medieval complexes in Europe
with an exceptional heritage and wealth of
architectural wonders. The best way to explore
the town is on foot. The 13 th century Manoir
de Gisson with its elegant tower, mullioned
windows, and decorative period furnishings
is a good starting point. Inside you’ll discover
how the bourgeoisie lived.
Next, head to the Place du Marché aux Oies,
where a traditional goose market used to be
held, remembered in the emblematic bronze
sculpture of three life-sized geese. Stroll
Sarlat’s charming, cobbled streets, past inner
courtyards and through picturesque squares
to the Lanterne des Morts, an unusual bulletshaped
stone structure. And don’t miss the
Sarlat
monumental Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos,
redeveloped over the centuries combining
Roman and Gothic styles. It is now a listed
monument and still a working church.
As a regional gastronomic hub, Sarlat’s twice
weekly markets (Wednesday and Saturday
mornings) have served shoppers since the
Middle Ages. Soak up the aromas of the
product filled stalls where local seasonal
delicacies like strawberries, walnuts and
truffles are abundant. Visit the covered
market in the former 12th century Church of
Sante-Marie for yet more delicious produce.
The streets are lined with fantastic
restaurants, trendy bistros, traditional cafés
and farmhouse inns. You will be spoiled for
choice when it comes to amazing food and
mouth-watering specialities such as foie
gras, duck, goose and truffle. I couldn’t
resist the daily lunch menu and authentic
cuisine at La Couleuvrine restaurant which
has been in the same family for three
generations.
102 | The Good Life France
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What to see nearby
Lascaux IV Cave
30 minutes north of Sarlat in Montignac
in the Vézère Valley, lies the Lascaux IV
decorated cave. Entering feels like going back
to prehistoric times - the paintings are breathtaking.
The cave is a complete replica of a
nearby original cave which was discovered
in 1940 but is now closed for its protection.
Lascaux IV showcases the complexity of
the painted art of our ancestors who used
pigments of powder from crushed stones
mixed with water to create the spectacular
paintings of animals. Enjoy a guided tour of
the cave, the interactive digital exhibition
and museum to learn how the complex
multicoloured frescoes evolved. Take a break
and enjoy delicious traditional cuisine at La
Parenthèse, a stone’s throw from the cave.
Marqueyssac Gardens
Three centuries of gardening passion have
made the Marqueyssac Gardens one of
the most spectacular sites in Perigord
Noir. There are more than 150,000 handpruned
boxwoods and 6km of trails offering
spectacular viewpoints. A superb early 19th
Century stone-tiled chateau sits in the heart
of the gardens. Stroll the pathways and
be wowed by magnificent views over the
Dordogne valley, as you gaze upon centuries
of history, hilltop castles, landscapes and
villages located on either side of one of
Europe’s most beautiful rivers. Visitors can
enjoy the gardens every day of the year and
even take part in rock climbing adventures
along the rugged 200-metre-long ‘Via
Ferrata’ during the summer.
Lascaux IV
Domme - Templar carvings
Templars carvings are, still visible today. Enjoy
panoramic views from the terraced belvedere
over the Dordogne valley, visit the wonderful,
natural, underground cave, a hidden gem full
of stalactites (once a shelter for prehistoric
people) and stop by the Cellier du Périgord to
take home their gourmet baskets of the best
local delicacies!
Château des Milandes
The 15th century Château des Milandes in
Castelnaud-la-Chapelle was built by François
de Caumont, Lord of Castelnaud in 1489
to please his wife, Claude de Cardaillac. It
has splendid architectural features such as
turrets, a winding staircase and gargoyles. The
castle was once home to Josephine Baker, the
singer and actress who became a civil rights
activist and heroine of World War II. Displays
and an audio guided tour of the castle tell her
extraordinary life story. Explore the exquisite
chapel and attractive gardens and watch the
fascinating bird of prey display overlooking
the Dordogne valley. Take a break at the
nearby delicious La Brasserie des Milandes.
Domme
Officially one of the “Most Beautiful Villages
of France”, Domme was founded in 1281.
Perched on a protected cliff, the village has
a unique architectural heritage including
its ramparts and the Porte des Tours (Gate
of the Towers) in which imprisoned Knights
Marquessac
Chateau des milandes Lucy spring
104 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 105

SELF-DRIVE
BOATING HOLIDAYS
NO PREVIOUS
EXPERIENCE NEEDED!
Brittany, Anjou, Charente, Lot,
Aquitaine, Midi, Camargue,
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Rocamadour
Rocamadour
No trip to the Dordogne Valley would be
complete without a visit to Rocamadour,
an enchanting medieval village, nestled in
the Alzou Gorges in the Lot department.
Located an hour east of Sarlat, Rocamadour
is recognised as one of the most beautiful
villages in France. A place of pilgrimage and
history with a 14th century chateau, chapels
and churches, this captivating cliff top village
is not to be missed.
La Gare – Espace Robert Doisneau
Since the remarkable Gare Robert Doisneau
exhibition space opened its doors in 2018, it
has welcomed over 60,000 visitors to view
the photograher’s wonderful collection of
images capturing the spirit of Dordogne. The
galleries, in the former Carlux Train Station,
display Doisneau’s photos of the region taked
on holidays and working trips.
Stay at: Domaine de Rochebois makes
a great base to explore Sarlat and the
surrounding area. Just 6km from Sarlat, the
refined and friendly 5-star luxury hotel in a
Sarlat market
19 th century manor house is in an exceptional
countryside setting and has a golf course, spa
and pool, stunning 360-degree views from the
panoramic terrace, and two restaurants.
Find more information about Sarlat-la-
Canéda and the Dordogne Valley at:
Dordogne-perigord-tourism.fr
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106 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 107

Your Photos
Every weekend we invite you to share your
photos on Facebook and X (formerly Twitter)
– it’s a great way for everyone to “see” real
France and be inspired by real travellers
snapping pics as they go. Every week
there are utterly gorgeous photos being
shared, and here we showcase just a few
of the most popular. Share your favourite
photos with us and your photo may appear
in the next issue of The Good Life France
Magazine!
Join us on Facebook
and X to like and share
your favourite photos
of France...
Claude Monet’s Garden, Giverny, Normandy by
Daniela Perria Rickey
Monet’s use of bright green paint, and lots of pink
flowers is world famous long after he has gone.
Find out more about Monet’s garden and take a
free virtual tour (link in post):
Monet’s Garden, Normandy
Dinan, Brittany by Maureen Shay Martinez
Wisteria flowers festooning ancient cobbled streets
in Dinan in spring – just glorious!
Discover: The best things to do in Dinan
Saint-Remy-de-Provence, by Zied Diaries
The French have perfected the art of window dressing – could you walk past this shop? Check out our
picture-perfect Spring in Provence article
108 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 109

What’s
NEW
spring 2024
the Modern Games (1900 and 1924). The
majority of events will take place across
the heart of the city with iconic landmarks
– from the Eiffel Tower to the Place de la
Concorde - being transformed into sporting
arenas. Some events - like football - will
take place in stadiums around France
including Lille, Lyon, and Bordeaux. Note
that travel in Paris during this time will
be affected, and hotels, restaurants etc
are likely to be super busy. Find out more:
paris2024.org/en
2024 promises to be a bumper year
for major events from the Paris
Olympics to the re-opening of the
Cathedral of Notre-Dame…
Major EVENTS Spring 2024
Nuits des Musées 18 May 2024
All over France on a weekend in mid-
May on the Nuits des Musées – hundreds
of museums, churches and Government
offices open their doors to the public and
offer free entry from nightfall until 1.00 a.m.
Many of them put on special exhibitions
and demonstrations in this unique annual
event. Why not enjoy a magical moonlit
museum tour!
Our Festivals of France podcast covers
some of the biggest, best and quirkiest
events in France – from pig squealing
contests to giant strawberry tarts,
and giants!
Tour de France 2024
29 June – 21 July 2024
For the first time in the race’s history the
Tour de France won’t be finishing in Paris as
the city will be preparing for the Olympic
Games. For 2024 the route embarks from
Florence, Italy, on June 29 and features
four high altitude panoramic finishes as the
Nuits des Musées
Nice, where the Tour de France will end, July 2024 © Juliet V Simpson
race crosses the Alps twice, races through
the south of France including Nimes,
Gruissan and Pau, Burgundy, the Loire
Valley and Champagne before ending with
a dazzling Monaco to Nice time-trial!
Paris Olympic Games
26 July – 11 August 2024
More than a million visitors are expected
to attend the Olympic Games in France!
It’s the third time that Paris has hosted
Major Anniversaries
150 years of Impressionism
2024 is the 150th anniversary of
Impressionism and there will be exhibitions
and events in Normandy, Paris, Ile-de-
France and Hauts-de-France.
The Eiffel Tower celebrates 135 years
She was only supposed to be there for
20 years – but this grand old dame is now
one of the most popular monuments in the
world and has stood for 135 years wowing
millions. (Have a listen to our Eiffel Tower
podcast to discover some of its most
fascinating secrets).
80th anniversary of the D-Day Landings
There will be events throughout May-August
2024 in Normandy and in Pas-de-Calais.
At La Coupole Historic Centre and 3D
planetarium near Saint-Omer, there will be
an exhibition dedicated to the liberation of
the region which will run from June 2024 –
June 2025 calais-cotedopale.co.uk
Regional Events
International Kite Festival 20-28 April,
Berck-sur-Mer, Pas de Calais
10 days of kite flying on the beach of Bercksur-Mer
on the glorious Opal Coast. This is
110 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 111

no ordinary kite festival – be prepared to be
totally wowed by the sight of hundreds of
kites, from ginormous to weird.
calais-cotedopale.co.uk
Amiens Rederie 21 April 2024, Picardy
The second biggest flea market event
in France (Lille Braderie in September
is the biggest). Thousands flock to the
flea market in the shadow of the famous
Cathedral of Amiens. It’s a great day out
and you may just find the bargain of the
year if you go early in the morning! Details:
somme-tourisme.com
spring sun as the movie elite head to the
south of France.
Roland Garros French Open
20 May – 9 June
Stars of the tennis world descend on Paris
to take part in the French Open, one of the
four Grand Slam events of the year
Bordeaux Wine Festival 27-30 June
Celebrate the legendary wines of Bordeaux
at this feel good, fun festival along the
banks of the River Garonne in the centre of
the city. Tall ships in
port, music and great
street food make this
more than a great
wine tasting event.
Chateau de Chaumont, Loire Valley, host of the International Garden Festival
International Garden Festival 24 April –
3 November 2024, Loire Valley
All over France gorgeous gardens will
burst into bloom but if you’re seriously into
glorious green-fingered beauty head to
the International Garden Festival at the
Chateau de Chaumont, Loire Valley. Kew
Gardens meets Chelsea Flower show with
a lot of French flair. Stunning permanent
gardens, contemporary art exhibitions, a
beautiful, historic chateau and each April,
the opening of the International Garden
Festival. www.domaine-chaumont. fr/en
Chopin Festival
Paris 1 June – 1 July
If you’re in Paris in
June, head to the
Parc de Bagatelle
for a Chopin concert
in the Orangerie – a
true Paris experience.
Frederic-chopin.com
And finally, a little further ahead, the
reopening of the Cathedral of Notre Dame
is still on track for December 8, 2024.
Cannes Film Festival 14-25 May
11 days of glitz and glamour under the warm
Bordeaux Fete du Vin
112 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 113

SPOTLIGHT
on the
Loire Valley
Chambord
Amboise
Enchanting castles, world-class vineyards,
historic cities, picturesque villages and
outdoor activities galore, with properties to
suit all budgets – the Loire Valley is a great
place to live.
Much of the Loire Valley is listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage site for its ‘living
cultural landscapes.’ The area straddles the
departments of Loiret, Loire-et-Cher, Indreet-Loire
(formerly Touraine) in the Centre
region plus Maine-et-Loire (formerly Anjou) in
the Pays de la Loire region. The largest city in
the Loire Valley is Tours, famous for its historic
architecture and for Place Plumereau, voted
by the French as their favourite square in
France to enjoy an aperitif.
There are excellent transport train services,
the TGV high speed train service connects you
to Tours in a little under an hour from Paris.
Motorway connections are excellent, the ferry
port of Caen is just three hours away by car.
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

Chedigny, villages of roses
Tours airport has regular flights to the UK, plus
there are airports within easy distance – in
Paris, Limoges and Nantes.
There is a huge choice of towns and villages
in the Loire, from big and bustling, to small
and tranquil, and property is available to suit
a range of budgets. Property prices (excluding
chateaux) are in the mid-range, with for
instance, older houses selling for an average of
€260,000 (Notaires de France 2022).
This is an area that’s great for families, young
people, retirees and second home/holiday
home buyers. Overall, the area has more
sunshine than Paris with around 1750 hours of
sun per year. Outdoor lovers will find plenty
to do. The Loire River, France’s last wild and
longest river which runs for some 630 miles
from the Ardèche region in the southeast to
the Atlantic near the port of Saint Nazaire on
the west coast, flows through the Loire Valley
keeping the land lush and fertile - giving the
area the nickname ‘the Garden of France.’ Its
flat banks are ideal for cyclists and the area
has more than 1000km of bike paths.
There are numerous hiking trails including
the GR3, the oldest long-distance walking
path in France; and at the château of
Chambord, there are 20km of paths and
tracks to enjoy in the largest enclosed forest
park in Europe. Water babies will love the
range of sports on offer from canoeing to
swimming. It’s an area that’s rich in culture
with more than 100 libraries, music schools,
shows, festivals, and many year-round
events.
“There’s a real mix of well-known and less
well-known towns” says Charlotte Field,
Area Coordinator for the Loire Valley at
Leggett Immobilier. “Vouvray for instance,
famous for its sparkling wines. Blois, whose
château hosts a spectacular Son et Lumière
show every night during the summer.
Orléans, capital of the Kingdom of France
in the early Middle Ages, famous for its Joan
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116 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 117

Chateaux such as Chenonceau, Chambord,
Cheverny, Amboise, Blois and Chaumont with
its annual international garden festival.”
Our latest properties for sale in Pays de la Loire and Centre
of Arc history and the siege of Orléans. And
Sancerre, home to 2800 hectares of wine –
producing grapes in stunning countryside and
voted favourite village of the French in 2021”.
“And if you’re keen on a riverside property
there is a lot of choice” advises Charlotte.
“Saumur for example, the equestrian capital of
France; Candes St Martin, at the confluence
of the Loire and the Vienne and which hosts
one the best local antiques fairs.”
East of Tours
Loches
If you’re looking to live close to those
magnificent castles, head east advises local
Leggett agent Nicola Bobeldijk. “Around St
Aignan sur Cher for instance, which is home
to the Beauval zoo, famous for its panda
population, you’ll find many small villages
with interesting properties. And Montrichard
and its surroundings are also popular as both
towns are close to some of the best-known
West of Tours
Head west say local Agents Ali and David
Kimber-Bates for stunning countryside and
fabulous vineyards as well as iconic towns and
châteaux. The couple bought a house in Indreet-Loire
some 20 years ago in the 17th century
walled town of Richelieu, created as a “cité
idéale” (a model town) on the orders of the
infamous Cardinal from whom the town takes
its name. “We bought a renovation project
as a holiday home but loved the good life in
France so much we decided to move over fulltime
in 2017” says Ali.
With a population of about 1,700 people,
Richelieu is just a 20-minute drive from the
medieval town of Chinon and its world-famous
castle on the banks of the Vienne river.
Denise and Kevin Belchambers bought a
holiday home in a small village near Chinon
in 2003 and fell in love with the lifestyle.
They eventually moved here full time and
set up Loire Brakes, e-bike guided tours of
the Loire Valley. “When we first moved to
the Loire Valley from the UK, it was hard to
choose what to see first – there is just so much
beauty, not to mention the street markets,
the wines and the fabulous gastronomy. And
it’s not just that the area is wonderful” says
Denise. “We’ve made so many friends here,
our neighbours are fabulous, sharing with
us the culture, traditions and history of the
area.” With a relaxed pace of life, dazzling
landscape, wine and castles – the Loire offers
a superb lifestyle.
See all of Leggett Immobilier’s properties for
sale in the Loire Valley
EXCLUSIVE
Loire Beauty
Maine-et-Loire €409,000
Ref: A21186 - Lovely 4-bedroom character
property with pool and mature gardens.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: E Climate class: D
17th Century Charm
Mayenne €82,400
Ref: A27100 - Pretty 1-bedroom stone cottage
with garden and barn. Ideal holiday home!
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: E Climate class: B
B&B Business
Loir-et-Cher €339,200
Ref: A25912 -Charming 6-bedroom Napoleonic
house dating from 1880, in the Braye valley.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: C Climate class: D
Lovely Longère
Maine-et-Loire €379,000
Ref: A23877 - Stunning 4-bedroom historical
riverside longère close to Saumur.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: C
Château Chic
Maine-et-Loire €294,999
Ref: A26820 - Spectacular apartment within a
stunning château, with grounds and pool.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: D Climate class: D
Little Gem
Indre €77,900
Ref: A19418 - Excellent semi-detached 3-bedroom
house in a charming village.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: E Climate class: E
True Elegance
Vendée €579,000
Ref: A09897 - Charming 8-bedroom home
with heated pool and outbuildings on 4000 m².
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: D
Anjou Vineyards
Maine-et-Loire €787,500
Ref: A26942 - 6-bedroom maison de maître
with gîte, heated pool and outbuildings.
5% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: B Climate class: A
Rural Retreat
Eure-et-Loir €450,000
Ref: A19575 - Attractive 5-bedroom farmhouse
with outbuildings and 1½ acres.
3% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
www.leggettfrance.com info@leggett.fr +33 (0)5 53 60 84 88
Change
your
outlook
We are recruiting
independent
sales agents
across France
+33 (0)5 53 60 82 77
recruitment@leggett.fr
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website: www.georisques.gouv.fr
118 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 119

Cross-Channel
Connections
Gillian Thornton chats
to Fairport Convention
member Dave Pegg, a
musical Brit in Brittany...
Port Louis
great fiddle player – and Fairport member –
Dave Swarbrick to play with him at the Royal
Albert Hall. Beside them was Breton musician
Dan ArBraz, who so impressed the Fairports
that they recruited him on the spot.
‘Dan rented the next cottage to me in
Cropredy and says it was me who taught him
English, unfortunately with a Birmingham
accent,’ laughs Peggy as he is affectionately
known to family, friends and fans. ‘When Dan
returned to Brittany, we visited him on holiday
and soon fell in love with the region and its
musical traditions.’
For 15 years, Peggy owned a holiday house
at Penthièvre on the narrowest part of the
Quiberon peninsula. He loved pottering
round the tranquil Baie de Quiberon to the
east in his catamaran and walking beside the
Côte Sauvage on the wilder western shore,
but eventually the summer traffic down this
slim finger of France became too much. So
in 2005, Peggy and his partner Ellen began
house hunting.
Dave Pegg (Peggy)
Every summer in the middle of August, the
black and white flag of Brittany flutters
for three days over a field in the English
countryside. Beneath it stands a comfortable
campervan belonging to Dave Pegg, bass
guitarist with legendary folk rock band
Fairport Convention, and around it, the annual
music festival that is Fairport’s Cropredy
Convention.
Launched nearly 40 years ago, initially as
a fundraiser for Cropredy village church,
this relaxed festival has always welcomed
an eclectic mix of artistes from 10CC to
Nile Rodgers, Ralph McTell to Robert Plant,
with opening and closing sets always by the
Fairports themselves.
So why the Breton flag? Nothing, it seems, to
do with the band’s 1969 hit single, Si Tu Dois
Partir, a French language version of the Bob
Dylan classic, If You Gotta Go. The Brittany
effect began in the mid-70s when celebrated
Breton harpist Alan Stivell invited the late,
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120 | The Good Life France Cote Sauvage, Ponthievre
The Good Life France | 121

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I’ve enjoyed many a glass of French wine
beneath that backstage festival flag in rural
Oxfordshire and heard French conversations
around the picnic table from guests such as
Dan ArBraz and Anglo-French folk band The
Churchfitters. So it’s a real treat to finally
meet Peggy on home ground in the Breton
department of Morbihan.
Today he and Ellen divide their time between
Oxfordshire and a traditional 18 th century
longhouse with lashings of period charm
complemented by a bright modern extension
and secluded garden. Barely half an hour
from his former seaside home, Peggy’s inland
pad stands in a farming hamlet so small that
the address begins simply ‘Lieu dit …’ (known
as). Head west for the bustling port of Lorient
and east to the tranquil Ria d’Etel, a drowned
riverbed with picturesque inlets and historic
villages.
many of whom had never met each other.
Today, it’s an annual ticketed event with food
and live music in the true spirit of Breton
musical events or ‘festnoz’.
‘I’ve always loved the way that traditional
music is part of everyday life in Brittany,’ says
Peggy. ‘Kids start playing in a bagad – or
pipe band – from an early age, and the music
evolves as they introduce contemporary
instruments like bass guitars.
‘There’s nothing like a Breton music festival
and there’s a great one in Lorient every
August, but sadly it’s the same weekend as
Cropredy. So I bring a bit of Brittany back to
Oxfordshire with me!’
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‘And we’re still close to incredible beaches like
the huge arc of golden sand that stretches
from Port Louis and Gâvres to the Quiberon
peninsula,’ says Peggy, who happily admits to
being a huge fan of Breton seafood.
One of the first thing they did on arrival was
organise an apéro for their new neighbours,
Ria d'Etel
122 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 123

DISCOVER
Pas-de-Calais
The closest French department to Britain, but
worlds away in atmosphere, Pas-de-Calais
offers multiple good reasons for a property
purchase says Gillian Thornton.
Think about buying property in France and
you’ll probably find yourself dreaming of
a Mediterranean villa, an Alpine chalet, or
maybe a stone farmhouse in the vineyards.
But let me plant another idea. If you’re not
a fan of extreme temperatures, prefer the
seaside to snowy slopes, and relish a relaxed
blend of countryside and culture, take a look
at Pas-de-Calais.
Closest French department to Britain, the
port of Calais is barely 20 miles (33km) from
the south coast of England, easily accessed
by ferry or road and rail tunnel. Arriving from
further afield? There are excellent rail links to
Paris and London from Lille, just across the
departmental border in the Nord, as well as a
good network of provincial train lines and fast
roads leading to Belgium, the Netherlands and
all points French.
Whatever indoor or outdoor activity you’re
into, with the exception of mountain sports,
you’ll almost certainly find it here. And forget
any preconceptions about the industrial north.
Many first-time visitors are surprised to find
large areas of rural landscape punctuated
with small villages and hamlets, as well as a
variety of heritage towns, each with its own
USP. Rural without being remote. Expect wide
sandy beaches and a rolling farmland, lush
river valleys and tranquil woodland. Even the
former coal mining area in the east of the
department is now full of green spaces and
repurposed industrial sites.
Beside the Opal Coast
Dubbed the Côte d’Opale for its opalescent
light, the coastline of Pas-de-Calais begins
just north of Calais and undulates southwards
for some 120km to Berck-Plage near the
estuary of Authie river. Far more than just a
transit town, Calais is well worth a stopover
to visit the Cité de la Dentelle et de la Mode,
the Lace and Fashion Museum that celebrates
the town’s signature craft. Enjoy a ride on the
extraordinary mechanical Dragon and take
the lift to the viewing gallery on the Town Hall
bell tower, high above Rodin’s famous statue
of The Burghers of Calais.
Berck-Plage
124 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 125

Le Touquet’s Art Deco market
South of Calais, the coast road winds past the
emblematic twin headlands of Cap Blanc-Nez
and Cap Gris-Nez – jointly awarded Grand
Site de France status – and through the fishing
villages of Audresselles and Ambleteuse. If you
like hiking or biking, cliff walks or sand dunes,
stop at the Maison du Site des Deux Caps
for inspiration, bike hire and local produce.
Stroll the promenade at Wimereux in front of
colourful Belle Epoque villas and in Boulognesur-Mer,
meet a wealth of deep-sea creatures
at the renowned Nausicaa sea life centre.
Despite having the sea in common, the fishing
port of Boulogne-sur-Mer couldn’t be more
different from its near neighbour, Le Touquet-
Paris Plage. Buy a home near the coast here
and you have a heritage town with a fascinating
hilltop museum and bustling quayside fish
market on one hand; a chic seaside resort
with flamboyant Art Deco properties and
outstanding sports facilities on the other. Love
a wide-open sandy beach? Le Touquet and
neighbouring Hardelot have two of the best.
Go sand-yachting, sailing, or maybe enjoy an
exhilarating excursion on horseback.
Alexander
Bates
Campbell
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Saint-Omer
Countryside delights
A large area of the Pas-de-Calais shoreline
forms the western boundary of the Regional
Natural Park of the Opal Coast Headlands
and Marshes – le PNR des Caps et Marais
d’Opale. Turn your back on the sea and the
PNR rolls inland with vast fields of cereals
eventually giving way to the Art & History
Town of Saint-Omer.
The Marais Audomarois on the edge of Saint-
Omer is a tranquil area guaranteed to soothe
both body and soul, whether you choose
to explore on foot or take a guided boat
excursion from the Maison du Marais visitor
centre. A UNESCO-listed Biosphere renowned
for its market gardening, it is rich in rich in
flora, fauna and a traditional way of life. Don’t
be surprised to see the postman delivering by
boat to a handful of island homes.
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126 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 127

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Montreuil-sur-Mer
Nestled up against the border with Belgium,
the area around Saint-Omer has a distinct
Flemish feel in its architecture, customs
and cuisine, which includes many recipes
using locally brewed beer. It’s more than
a century since the end of the Great War
in 1918, but the sacrifices of a generation
are remembered here at cemeteries small
and large, representing the fallen of many
nations in some of the most intense fighting
of the conflict.
From Saint-Omer, it’s barely 50km to Hesdin,
a historic market town on the southern
boundary of the department in the heart of
the Vallées d’Opale. A peaceful agricultural
area bisected by seven river valleys, its many
small hamlets include Azincourt, scene of the
Battle of Agincourt in 1415 and home to an
interactive museum.
Flowing through the Vallées d’Opale to Le
Touquet, the Canche river passes beneath the
fortified hilltop town of Montreuil-sur-Mer,
renowned for its food shops and restaurants
as well as a substantial citadel, rampart walks
and cobbled streets.
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128 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 129

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Around Louvre-Lens
Furthest away from the Channel coast,
the eastern area of Pas-de-Calais around
Béthune, Arras and Lens offers a wide range
of heritage sites and cultural attractions,
including one of France’s leading art
museums, Louvre-Lens. With more than 200
works taken from the Louvre in Paris, this
purpose-built gallery stands at the heart of
the former mining basin at Lens, classified
as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Here
pitheads and slagheaps have been given
new life as museums, sports facilities and
community hubs in an outstanding example of
industrial regeneration.
Also recognised by UNESCO are the belfries
of Béthune, Arras and Douai, listed amongst
23 bell towers across Northern France and
Belgium and regarded as symbols of local
freedom since the Middle Ages. Like a mix
of architectural styles? Then look out for Art
Deco treasures such as Lens railway station;
the swimming pool at Bruay-la-Buissière; and
the flamboyant houses around Béthune.
Buy property near Arras and shopping will
take on a whole new perspective as you
browse the stalls in the two vast market
squares. Grand’Place and Place des Héros.
Fringed with arcades and Flemish gables, they
were painstakingly rebuilt in Baroque style
after the devastation of World War I. Take time
to reflect too amongst the sobering beauty
of Great War cemeteries and memorials that
honour the sacrifices of many nations here on
the Western Front.
Wherever you choose to buy in this
cosmopolitan corner of Northern France, you
are never short of places to go and things
to do, all within easy reach. Now isn’t that a
location worth thinking about?
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130 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 131

TOP TIPS for running
a gite in France
properly, navigate the many
holiday home portals (and try
to weed out which ones are
scams or simply don’t deliver
what they promise), or if you’re
not around full time then you
could consider getting help from
a reputable and trustworthy
company that takes away the hard work
and ensures you maximise your bookings/
income, plus help with the nitty gritty of
maintaining a tip top gite. PPS Europe have
been helping holiday homeowners in France
to market and manage their gites for more
than a decade. They cut out the hassle and
stress of updating rental sites, keyholding,
managing calendars and guest turnovers.
“It’s not just about keeping the calendar full,
it’s about making sure your guests have an
exceptional experience” says Sue O’Grady
of PPS Europe.
PPS Europe help with every aspect of
the gite rental business from ensuring the
pricing is right to helping to
source a property manager.
They take care of listing gites
on sites that give the best
return including booking.
com and VRBO. They’ll
administer bookings, manage
payment with several
methods available, and take care of the
Taxe de Séjour (Tourist Tax) mandatory
in most parts of France and paid to the
local treasury. Any issues are taken care
of from dealing with local authorities
to technical problems with the phone/
internet provider. Guests have a contact
when needed. Reviews are uploaded to
relevant sites. And the gite changeover is
managed seamlessly for your next happy
guest. You’ll receive financial statements,
booking reports and timely payment.
Find out more about PPSEurope’s
marketing and management service:
ppseurope.net
Many people dream of owning a house in
France and running a gite. Perhaps you’re
retired and want to supplement your income,
or maybe you see it as a way of owning your
own little piece of the wonderful patchwork
that makes up this beautifully diverse country
and making it pay for itself.
Running a gite isn’t all fun though, and one of
the key hassles is the work involved in renting
it out. Yes, France is the most popular country
in the world when it comes to visitors, and
they all need somewhere to stay. But that
doesn’t mean the bookings come in all on
their own. You need to work at it. It’s essential
to keep the gite guest-ready, spotlessly clean
and everything in good working order, the
garden looking its best, and someone locally
who can react promptly and efficiently to a
property emergency, keep the availability
calendar updated on all rental sites, collect
the payments, and pay taxes.
If you don’t have time to market your gite
Stress-free French holiday
home maintenance and
marketing
Reclaim your free time and maximise
your holiday home rental income
ppseurope.net
132 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 133

Croque-monsieur
revisité
Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
Makes 6
Active time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 15–20 minutes
Storage: Up to 24 hours
INGREDIENTS
Mustard butter
1½ sticks (6 oz./180 g) butter, softened
4 tsp (20 g) whole grain Mustard
Emmentaler spread
3½ cups (14 oz./400 g) grated Emmentaler
cheese
Scant 1 cup (200 g/200 ml) heavy cream,
min. 35% fat
Croque-monsieurs
6 slices white sourdough bread
6 slices ham (jambon blanc)
METHOD
Preparing the mustard butter
Place the butter and mustard in a bowl and
stir until well blended.
Preparing the Emmentaler spread
Place the cheese and cream in a bowl and stir
until well blended.
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Extracted from French Boulangerie:
Recipes and Techniques from the Ferrandi
School of Culinary Arts by FERRANDI
Paris (Flammarion, 2024).
ALL PHOTOS ©Rina Nurra.
Assembling and baking the croquemonsieurs
Preheat the oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas
Mark 8). Using a palette knife, spread an even
layer of mustard butter over one side of each
bread slice. Place butter side up on a baking
sheet lined with parchment paper and toast in
the oven for 5 minutes. Remove and reduce
the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4). Place a slice of ham on each slice of
bread and top with Emmentaler spread. Bake
for 15–20 minutes at 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4) until golden brown.
134 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 135

PROVENÇAL
shoulder of lamb
and vegetable tian
INGREDIENTS
1 shoulder of lamb
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 ½ tablespoons (50 ml) olive oil
Salt, freshly ground pepper
Vegetable tian
2 large onions
2 tomatoes
1 zucchini (courgette)
1 eggplant (aubergine)
3 ½ tablespoons (50 ml) olive oil
A scattering of herbes de Provence
A few sprigs of basil
Salt, freshly ground pepper
Pistou
4 garlic cloves, peeled, shoots removed
½ bunch basil
3 ½ tablespoons (50 ml) olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
?
METHOD
Bone the shoulder.
Prepare the pistou. Crush the garlic cloves
with the basil leaves using a pestle and
mortar. Drizzle the olive oil in as you crush
and then thin with the lemon juice.
Brush the cavity with the pistou and season
with salt and pepper. Roll the shoulder up and
tie with twine. Baste it with oil and season
with salt and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes,
then lower the temperature to 350°F
(170°C). Add the garlic cloves and cook for
an additional 45 minutes. Remove the lamb
from the baking dish, wrap it in aluminum
foil, and keep warm. You will need to have
the oven at the same temperature for the
vegetable tian.
Peel and wash the onions and wash all other
the vegetables. Cut them into disks 1⁄8 in.
(2–3 mm) thick. Oil a baking dish. Arrange
the vegetable slices—tomatoes, zucchini,
onions, and eggplant—vertically in rows. It’s
best to alternate all the vegetables in each
row, rather than placing one vegetable in
each row. Scatter with herbes de Provence,
tuck in a few sprigs of basil, drizzle over
a little olive oil, and season with salt and
pepper. Cook the vegetables for 30 minutes
until soft, allowing them to stew a little in
their own liquid.
Heat the plates
before serving
and cut up the
meat as it is
required.
SERVES 5
Preparation: 50 minutes
Cooking: 55 minutes
Did You Know?
A tian is a Provençal earthenware baking
dish used to make gratins. It has given
its name to this assortment of typically
southern vegetables, cooked to a confit
texture, that accompany the lamb flavored
with olive oil and basil, other typical
ingredients of the region.
Extracted from
The Complete Book of French
Cooking by Hubert Delorme and
Vincent Boué (Flammarion, 2023).
Photo credit: © Clay McLachlan
136 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 137

INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
¾ cup (200 ml) good-quality premade
brown stock
1 bunch fresh tarragon (stalks and leaves)
6 chicken pieces of your choice (thighs, breast
or legs)
Salt and pepper, to season
2 tbsp (15 g) flour
1 tbsp (15 ml) cooking oil
1 carrot, roughly diced
1 shallot, roughly diced
1 celery rib, finely sliced
2 tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter
3 tbsp (45 ml) cognac
¾ cup (200 ml) dry white wine
¾ cup (200 ml) heavy cream
METHOD
In the Dutch oven, heat the oil over mediumhigh
heat and sear the chicken pieces for
5 minutes on each side, until golden brown
(cooking in batches, if needed). When cooked,
transfer the chicken to a plate and set aside,
covered.
Lower the heat to medium, add the carrot,
shallot, celery and butter, and cook for 1
minute, stirring well to avoid burning the
ingredients. Pour in the cognac and scrape the
bottom of the pan to detach the caramelized
juices before stirring in the wine. Reduce until
roughly 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of liquid remain.
Slide the chicken back into the pot, along
with any residual cooking juices, and adjust
the heat to low. Bury the bunch of tarragon
stalks under the chicken and pour in the stock
along with a pinch of salt and pepper. Simmer,
covered, for 35 minutes. Remove the chicken
breasts after 15 minutes of cooking and set
aside covered with foil. After 35 minutes,
discard the tarragon stalks and scoop out
the rest of the chicken to sit with the resting
chicken breasts.
To make the sauce, add the cream to the
pot and bring to a boil over high heat, then
lower the heat slightly and let the sauce
bubble away for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the
consistency thickens enough to coat the back
of the spoon.
Adjust the heat to low, and stir in a small
handful of the tarragon leaves. Return the
chicken to the pot, gently turning the pieces
to coat in the sauce. Simmer, covered, for 5
minutes before serving divided among dinner
plates with a generous ladleful of sauce and a
pinch of extra tarragon leaves.
Braised Chicken in
Tarragon Sauce
Reprinted with permission from French
Cooking Academy by Stephane Nguyen
with Kate Blenkiron. Page Street
Publishing Co. 2023.
Photo credit: Kate Blenkiron
Mise en place
You will need a Dutch oven or cast-iron pot.
Bring the stock to a light boil and set aside.
Strip and reserve the leaves from the tarragon
and tie the stalks into a bunch with kitchen
twine. Season the chicken with salt and
pepper and dust lightly with the flour.
138 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 139

Raspberry
ganache tart
SERVES 8
Preparation: 45 minutes
Resting: 20 minutes
Cooking: 40 minutes
Chilling: 2–3 hours
INGREDIENTS
Creamed sweet short pastry
1 stick (125 g) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
1 egg
2 ¾ cups (250 g) cake flour
1 teaspoon (5 ml) salt
Ganache cream
½ lb. (225 g) raspberries, divided
¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
2 oz. (50 g) glucose
1 2⁄3 cups (400 ml) whipping cream, min. 30%
fat
7 tablespoons (100 g) unsalted butter
Scant 1⁄3 cup (70 ml) raspberry brandy or eaude-vie
1 ¾ lb. (750 g) dark chocolate, 64% cacao,
chopped
Special equipment: a copper saucepan
METHOD
Prepare the creamed sweet short pastry.
Place the butter, sugar, and egg in the bowl
of a food processor and cream together
until smooth. Sift the flour and add it with
the salt to process for 1–2 minutes further,
until smooth. Remove from the bowl. Press
down the dough with the palm of your
hand, pushing it away from you, until the
ingredients are thoroughly blended. Chill,
covered, for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Roll out the dough very thinly (about 1⁄8 in./3 mm)
to form a disk. Use your rolling pin to transfer
it from the working surface to the baking
pan or circle: drape it round the pin and then
unroll it over the tart mold. Make decorative
patterns around the edge. Prick the dough
with a fork, line it with parchment paper, and
fill with baking beans. Blind-bake for 20–25
minutes and allow to cool.
In a copper saucepan, cook 3 ½ oz.
(100 g) of the raspberries with the sugar and
glucose. Bring to a boil and leave to simmer
for a few minutes. Add the cream and butter
and bring to a boil again.
Remove from the heat and incorporate the
raspberry brandy or eau-de-vie and the
chopped chocolate. Mix until thoroughly
blended. Strain through a fine mesh sieve
and pour the ganache into the cooled
tart shell. Leave in the refrigerator until
set, about 2–3 hours.
Garnish with the
remaining raspberries
and serve.
Extracted from
The Complete
Book of French Cooking
by Hubert Delorme and Vincent
Boué (Flammarion, 2023).
Photo credit: © Clay McLachlan
140 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 141

Last
Word
In France they say of those of us who live in the far north of France, ‘they
might not have the sunshine on their heads, but they have it in their hearts.’
It’s true we are not as sun-kissed as our southern neighbours, but (and despite
a particularly wet winter this year) it doesn’t rain half as much as people think
it does.
Writer Somerset Maughan once described the French Riviera as a “sunny
spot for shady people”, you could say of Pas-de-Calais, that it’s a shady
spot for sunny people.
Any excuse to celebrate is considered a very good idea here. So when my
neighbour Jean-Claude, a man who rarely needs a reason to enjoy a glass
of wine or a plate of andouillette (extremely pungent sausages made with
offal, much-loved by the French, not understood by anyone else), decided
that he would honour the 60th birthday of his long-suffering wife Bernadette
with something special we knew it would be memorable. “A secret party in
the town hall salle des fetes” he said. It doesn’t sound like much, but in these
parts, people are potty about parties, and a lot of effort goes into making
sure the food is fabulous, the wine is worthy, and the music brings out the
dancer in all of us. The birthday girl pretended she knew nothing about the
special day, though you can’t keep a big secret in a small village.
Came the day and almost the entire village turned up bearing bottles of
wine, crates of beer and delicious dishes. A long table was crammed with the
most delectable home-made pies and pastries, mouth-watering tarts and
cakes, a basket of crisp baguettes and trays of smelly, sweaty and succulent
cheeses. And in the centre, an enormous celebration croquembouche cake,
a tower of profiteroles bound by an intricate embroidery of molten sugar
topped with a love heart shaped pink macaron, made by Jean-Claude with
help from Bernadette’s mother Claudette, the best cook in the village.
The DJ played the songs of the late, great but still much-loved Johnny
Hallyday, AKA the French Elvis, and upbeat songs that make the feet tap
long before they reach the dance floor. Abba’s Dancing Queen echoed
around the lush green Valleys battling with the gurgling of raging rain and
the rumbling, roaring wind.
And the sound of laughter of people with sunshine in their hearts
was priceless.
Janine
Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France; My Four Seasons in France; Toujours La France,
and How to be French: Eat, dress, travel and love la vie Française –
available on Amazon, all online bookshops and in bookstores in high streets everywhere.
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142 | The Good Life France
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