Summer 2023

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The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 34
ISSN 2754-6799
Romantic
& Medieval
wonders of
France
Historic castles & pickled
in the past villages
Magazine
Vallée de la
Gastronomie
620km foodie route
from north to south
Mont Saint-
Michel
Celebrates 1000 years
of history
Car-free & captivating
PROVENCE!
Normandy’s
Cheese & Cider Country
Delicious recipes
Bringing you a taste
of France…
120 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos

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Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Magazine.
I’m thrilled to share this beautiful summer issue with you – it’s
brimming with fabulous features and fantastic photos, guides,
culture, history, recipes and much, much more.
Take a trek around France via the Vallée de la Gastronomie,
a designated route which winds its way from delicious Dijon
in Burgundy to mouth-watering Marseille in the south and
honours the rich, authentic and utterly delectable heritage of
French food from field to plate.
Discover some of the most romantic sites and medieval
gems of France within easy distance of Paris. Va va voom
to Vaucluse – but not by car as we show you how to visit
Provence without four wheels! Head to cheese and cider
country and nibble your way around Normandy, and soak up
the vivid colours and vibrant culture of French Basque country.
Find out how to spend a perfect weekend in historic Tours in
the Loire Valley and go off the beaten track to exquisite Saint-
Cirq-LaPopie in the Lot, one of the most beautiful villages
in France, and Le Grand Bornand in the French Alps – the
perfect place for an outdoor summer break.
Check out the châteaus including fabulous Fontainebleau
and picturesque Pierrefonds. And celebrate 1000 years of the
abbey of Mont-Saint-Michel, one of the wonders of the world.
Ever wondered how to get that perfect shade of French blue
you see on doors and shutters all over France? Read on as we
explain all. We shine a spotlight on lovely Mayenne and the
beautiful Languedoc-Roussillon department in Occitainie,
plus a look at the history of chocolate in France and some
truly scrumptious recipes for you to enjoy a taste of France at
home. And there’s heaps more.
If you’re not a subscriber, hop on to page 4 and subscribe –
totally for free, and please do share this issue with your friends,
that’s free too!
I wish you a very happy summer and hope you enjoy this issue.
Bisous from my little corner of rural France.
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
Follow us on Twitter,
Instagram & Facebook
The Good Life France | 3

ISSN 2754-6799
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CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 34 Summer 2023
ISSN 2754-6799
The magazine is free to read, download and share
Contributors
5
ON THE COVER
8 Five romantic gems of France
Historic castles and picturesque
villages near Paris…
Gillian Thornton is an
award-winning travel
writer and member
of the British Guild
of Travel Writers,
specialising in French
destinations and
lifestyle. Her favourite
place? ‘Usually where I
have just been!’
The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 34
Romantic
& Medieval
wonders of
France
Historic castles & pickled
in the past villages
Vallée de la
Gastronomie
620km foodie route
from north to south
Mont Saint-
Michel
Celebrates 1000 years
of history
Car-free & captivating
PROVENCE!
Normandy’s
Cheese & Cider Country
Delicious recipes
Bringing you a taste
of France…
Ally Mitchell is a
blogger and freelance
writer, specialising in
food and recipes. Ally
left the UK to live in
Toulouse in 2021 and
now writes about her
new life in France on
her food blog
NigellaEatsEverything
Magazine
FREE
120 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos
Jeremy Flint is
an award-winning
photographer
(Association of
Photographers
Discovery Award
Winner, National
Geographic Traveller
Grand Prize Winner,
five-times finalist
Travel Photographer
of the Year) and writer
specialising in travel,
landscape and location
photography.
Sue Aran is a writer,
photographer, and
tour guide living in the
Gers department of
southwest France. She
is the owner of French
Country Adventures,
which provides
personally-guided,
small-group, slow travel
tours into Gascony, the
Pays Basque, Provence
and beyond.
The Good Life France Magazine
Aaron James is
travelling around the
south of France whilst
on a Year Abroad from
Oxford University,
exploring and writing as
he goes.
Front Cover: Menton, French Riviera by Marianne Furnes: Instagram
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor (at) the Good Life France.com
Advertising: sales (at) the Good Life France.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 34 Summer 2023, released June 2023
16
72
16 Car-free & captivating
Provence
Picture-perfect Provence by
public transport.
22 The Vallée de la Gastronomie
Janine Marsh takes a 620km
gastronomic odyssey of France.
46 Cheese & Cider country
in Normandy
Gillian Thornton samples
and sips her way through the
Norman countryside.
72 Mont-Saint-Michel
1000 years of history at the
famous Abbey at the top of an
island.
DISCOVER
34 French Basque Country
Gillian Thornton soaks up the
vivid colours and vibrant culture
of this sunny corner of France.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

56
88
41 Le Weekend in the
Loire Valley
Janine Marsh falls for the
allure of the Loire Valley, the
former royal playground of
France’s Kings and Queens.
52 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
The ‘pearl of the Lot Valley’
a wondrous, cliffhanging
beauty of a village in the
Lot… by Sue Aran and Janine
Marsh.
56 Hidden Gem –
Le Grand Bornand
An exquisite alpine village in
Haute-Savoie
62 Taste of France: Chocolate
Alison Mitchell investigates
the mild obsession with
chocolate that the
French have!
102
REGULARS
90 What’s New
All the news and events you need
for your next trip to France.
118 Last word
Life in Rural France – making
a home.
GUIDES
94 Living and working in France
Top tips for those dreaming
or planning to move to
France and work from visas to
microentrepreneurs.
102 Languedoc Rousillon
Joanna Leggett explores the
culture, history and lifestyle of
sunny Languedoc-Roussillon.
108 Destination Mayenne
Discover a tranquil land of
rivers, forests and laid-back
villages.
68 Heavenly Hyères
Aaron James says this Belle
Epoque town on the French
Riviera has it all!
78 The Chateau of
Pierrefonds
Gillian Thornton explores
a medieval fantasy castle
in Picardy.
84 How to French Country
Sara Silm shares how to find
the perfect shade of French
blues and greens.
BON APPÉTIT
113 Fougasse with goats cheese
More-ish and delicious French
flatbread with fromage by Paris
master baker Éric Kayser.
114 Braided brioche
Irresistible sweet plaited brioche
by Paris master baker
Éric Kayser.
116 Scallop & vegetable balloons
Scrumptious little ‘hot air
balloons’ of deliciousness by
Ferrandi Paris.
PHOTO SPECIALS
88 Your photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our
Facebook page.
113
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more -
subscription is totally free.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

e
France is brimming with romantic villages
and castles and medieval gems that have
somehow managed to withstand the passing
of time. Janine Marsh joined a barge cruise
from Sens in Burgundy to the heart of Paris
and visited some of the most ravishing sites of
France en route…
I have to be honest, I didn’t know much (ok
nothing) about Sens in Burgundy, but this was
my starting point for a CroisiEurope cruise
to Paris on a beautiful barge called the MS
Deborah. Sens is incredibly just an hour from
Paris by train, but oh so different from the
capital. It’s a sleepy sort of place on the edge
of the Yonne River, an important waterway
since the middle ages when boats carried
Burgundy wines and wood from the forests to
Paris as the Yonne flows into the Seine.
Sens isn’t a big tourist attraction, but it is a pretty
little town and is known in France for two things.
First, its ancient cathedral which is even older
than Notre-Dame in Paris, begun in 1130 AD.
And second, it was from here that the warrior
Brennus, chieftain of the Gallic Senon tribe,
departed for Rome – and conquered it around
390 BC. The Gauls only left after being paid off.
Sens was an important religious centre since the
3rd century, and its Cathedral was the first to
feature vaulting in its design and is considered to
be the very first of the great Gothic Cathedrals
in France. Opposite the Cathedral is a lovely
covered market, and there is a museum next to
the Cathedral which has an eclectic collection
including the hat Napoleon Bonaparte wore
at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815. Apparently
it was damaged by rain so he gave it to his
hatmakers in Paris to repair, but was exiled to
St. Helena before he got it back.
Medieval marvel Provins
This is cruising at its slow tourism best. The
boat holds just 22 passengers, and everything
is inclusive from food to wine and spirits, plus
all excursions. The Yonne is a working river,
we passed pleasure ships and cargo barges
The MS Deborah
Vaux-le-Vicomte
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

Fabulous Fontainebleau
Onwards we sailed, past a pair of courting
black swans and fishermen sitting patiently
on pontoons, and yet, we’re only 55kms from
Paris. Our next stop was the magnificent
Chateau of Fontainebleau. If walls could talk
then those at this enormous castle of some
1500 rooms would have plenty to say.
Collegiale Saint-Quiriace © Provins Cheyenne
and watched silos filling bulky holds with a
backdrop of pretty villages, vineyards, and
lovely houses that sit at the edge of the river.
Wild birds swoop overhead, and swans glided
regally as we floated gently and admired
the glorious countryside, and sometimes we
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stopped at locks and watched the action from
the sun deck, sipping the cocktail of the day.
The fabulous food and wine and the relaxed
ambiance soothe your soul. By day three you
won’t remember what day it I, and you won’t
care either, it’s totally relaxing.
The Good Life
France podcast
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Chef Jonathan with dessert
We docked at the lovely medieval town of
Moret-sur-Loing, a designated “remarkable
heritage site” and “Destination Impressionism”,
a favourite of painter Alfred Sisley who lived
here for 20 years. I was torn between taking
a bike from the boat to cycle in the local
countryside and discover the Chateau de By,
once the home of painter Rosa Bonheur, but I
went for a tour of Provins instead. All the guides
for trips speak both French and English.
Provins in the department of Ile de France,
is one of those places that you think simply
can’t exist – but it does. This fortified town is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site, once under the
rule of the powerful Counts of Champagne.
Its cobbled, flower-filled streets and medieval
buildings cover a huge area and there’s a lot
to see from towers and turrets to ramparts,
dungeons and underground tunnels. Once a
hugely important commercial centre, goods
came from around the world to be sold at one
of the town’s famous grand fairs which lasted
for weeks. There’s also a fabulous rose garden
and shop/tea shop where everything comes
up roses from sweets to ice cream!
Famous staircase of Fontainebleau
This castle is 500 years older than Versailles.
The original chapel was consecrated by
Thomas Becket (whose secretary incidentally
lived for several years in Sens), AKA Saint
Thomas of Canterbury and Thomas à Becket.
This is the only royal and imperial chateau in
France that was continuously inhabited for
eight centuries. From the 12th Century, what
was a royal hunting lodge in a vast forest
was renovated, extended and embellished
by various Kings, Queens Emperors and
Empresses until it became the extraordinary,
enormous castle you see before you.
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

It’s chock-a-block full of tapestries, frescoes,
paintings, and carvings – opulently furnished,
truly dazzling. Napoleon Bonaparte lorded it
up at this chateau, saying it was his favourite
above all others. He commissioned a team of
builders and gilders to bling it up and make
it more to his taste. And it was from that
horseshoe shaped staircase that he bade
farewell to his guides before going into exile
(and leaving his hat behind).
Here King Francois I of France hung the
Mona Lisa over his bathtub, Louis XIV fed the
giant carp in the pond and Marie-Antoinette
commissioned a gorgeous bed for her pretty
boudoir, though she never laid her head there,
she lost it in Paris instead. She did though
recreate what she loved about this countryside
Paris at her hamlet in Versailles.
Fontainebleau - Napoleon's library
Detail on the wall of the ballroom at Fontainebleau
Glorious Fontainebleau
Bucolic
Barbizon
For a complete contrast we
next headed to Barbizon, a
little village on the edge of
the Forest of Fontainebleau.
Once a tiny hamlet (it was
upgraded to village status
in 1903), a colony of artists
formed here in the early
1800s. There was then a tiny
grocery shop and artists on
their way from Paris to Fontainebleau would
stop to buy supplies and noted how beautiful
the scenery was. They started to linger longer,
enraptured by the beauty of the countryside
and rural life, and the canny shop owner
converted the shop to an inn which became
the Hotel Ganne. Then the artists stayed
longer and more and more came, Rousseau,
Millet, Díaz de la Peña. They were the
precursor that led to impressionism and Monet
and Renoir themselves also visited – but they
wanted bigger landscapes – cities and coasts.
The artists left Barbizon. They also left their
mark. The Hotel Ganne is now a museum,
where the furniture and walls are covered
Barbizon
with the etches and sketches of the artists
who stayed here. Caricatures, saints, fairies,
soldiers, whatever inspired them – they left a
little of their work and soul behind.
The town is pickled in the past and very lovely.
It continues to attract artists and the shops,
bars and restaurants look like set pieces from
your dream of a French village.
Pickled in the past
Vaux-le-Vicomte
Next up is the ravishing castle of Vaux-le-
Vicomte, one of the largest privately owned
residences in France with gorgeous gardens.
Commissioned by Nicolas Fouquet, Louis
XIV’s minister of finance it was almost
completed in 1661 but Fouquet invited the
boss to visit and that was his undoing. It was so
beautiful that Louis was enraged with jealousy,
Hotel Ganne Barbizon
12 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 13

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and, egged on by other scheming ministers,
he had Fouquet thrown into prison, where
the unfortunate minister died in 1680. Louis
had the furnishings, ornaments and even the
curtains and plants put in his own castles and
then hired the team who created Vaux-le-
Vicomte, to work on Versailles. Moral – never
upstage a king.
Picture-perfect Paris
From here we cruised to Paris, the riverbank
villages giving way to warehouses, apartment
blocks, restaurants, and office buildings. The
sounds of the city filtered through the air
coupled with the sounds of music as people
tango’d and cha cha cha’d on the quaysides, or
lazed in the sun, going about the life of a city.
Meanwhile on the barge it remained tranquil.
We passed under historic bridges and dock
between the Statue of Liberty on the little manmade
island called Île aux Cygnes, facing its
big sister in New York, and the Eiffel Tower.
That night we had a gala dinner as the
Eiffel Tower sparkled nearby and we bid
farewell to new friends. We were joined by
an accordionist and Edith Piaf tribute singer;
the haunting sounds carried across the water
and drew a small crowd on the quayside as
the sun set and metro train purred over the Bir
Hakeim Bridge – a perfect snapshot of Paris
and the perfect way to end a most fabulous
barge cruise in the world’s most popular city. I
looked at my fellow bargers as the words “j’ai
deux amours” rang out, it’s clear they were as
enchanted as I was.
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14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15

Charles de Gaulle Airport, plus it’s only 7.5
hours from London by train!
Avignon TGV (fast trains) station is on the
outskirts of the city and connects via local
trains (TER) directly into the city where the
station is a short walk to the Popes Palace.
Avignon © A Hocquel, Vaucluse Tourism
LE CAR-FREE
week-end
in Provence…
Discover the beauty, culture, museums, monuments, and gastronomy of Provence –
without a car, says Janine Marsh
I’m often asked if it’s possible to visit Provence
without a car and still see the wonderful sights
and sites – and the answer is yes! Absolutely.
When it comes to exploring historic cities and
lovely villages, here’s how to do it by public
transport. And, whilst the lavender fields are
in the middle of countryside, far away from
train stations and bus stops, you can visit
them by bike or take a half day or day trip
with a tour company.
Avignon, the capital of Vaucluse in the heart
of Provence, makes for a great base, and it’s
easy to get to by train with direct connections
by TGV (fast train) to Paris, Marseille and
Avignon
The historic city of Avignon, surrounded by
medieval ramparts, is small enough to easily
walk around. Apart from its bridge, “Sur le
Pont d’Avignon, L’on y danse, l’on y danse…”,
it’s perhaps most famous for its monumental
and wonderfully preserved 14th century
Palais des Papes (both are UNESCO
World Heritage sites along with several
other sites).
Explore the historic buildings, museums and
picturesque streets and squares. Stroll along
the photogenic rue des Teinturiers, rue
Peyrolerie, place des Corps Saints, place
Saint Didier and place de l’Horloge – in all
these cobbled streets and squares you’ll
find fabulous bars and restaurants, shaded
by plane trees, hidden in courtyards and
alongside streams – perfect for a taste of
delicious Provencal cuisine.
Whilst you might not want to leave this
lovely city, there’s a lot to see and do within
easy travelling distance.
Villeneuve-sur-Avignon
Across the river Rhône which skirts
Avignon, Villeneuve-sur-Avignon is truly
beautiful – a place that most visitors to
Avignon never discover. The garden of the
Abbey Saint André, perched on a hill, has
a tranquil ambiance with wonderful views.
The 17th/18th century abbey, a national
Heritage Site, is where 6th century Saint
Casarie once lived, she chose the hilltop
above the abbey as a place of prayer and
meditation. It’s an easy journey on line 5 of
the Orizo network, taking just 11 minutes.
16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17

Or see the village from a boat. The Grands
Bateaux de Provence enable you to discover
the most beautiful sights of Avignon and
Villeneuve-sur-Avignon from the Rhone river;
or, push the boat out on a discovery cruise that
includes lunch or dinner.
Orange
Take a 20-minute train ride to Orange and
then walk 1km to the city centre (or take a
bus from outside the station) to discover the
extraordinary Roman theatre, a UNESCO
World Heritage site.
Once the theatre hosted 10,000 Romans,
incredibly its famous wall still stands, one of
the best preserved in the world. Close by is a
majestic triumphal arch, and don’t miss the
Museum of Art and History, which houses
mosaics, cadastral maps, ancient remains and
artefacts. The town itself is enchanting, bijou
boutiques, bars and brasseries will tempt you
to linger.
Villeneuve-sur-Avignon © A Hocquel Vaucluse Tourism
Wine is part of the culture of Provence, and
in Chateauneuf-du-Pape life revolves around
the wine. The hilltop town rises like a ship
amongst a sea of grapevines, topped by the
ruins of a castle built by those 14th century
popes to be their summer holiday home. It was
the popes who first planted the vines here.
And they chose well. The terroir, that French
word that’s so hard to translate which refers
to the conditions the vines grow in, makes
for the most superb wines to this day. There’s
plenty of opportunity to taste them in the town
with a cellar or shop every few metres. Stroll
the historic street, climb the hill to the ruined
castle from which you have spectacular views
and walk the marked circuit from the village
through the vineyards.
As you might expect, it’s not easy to plonk a
train station and tracks down in the middle of
vineyards, so take a bus from Avignon to the
town, visit by bike which takes about an hour,
or take a tour (ask at Avignon tourist office
for details).
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Carpentras
It’s around 30 minutes by train from Avignon
to l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and the train station is
in the town so it’s a short walk to anywhere.
This former fishing village has a laid-back
charm, with water wheels along its canals,
pretty houses and fabulous shops. Its fame
is worldwide due to the many, many antique
shops and annual antique fairs. This town is
the number one antique centre of southern
France, and third in Europe.
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the source of the water
that feeds the canals and river in l’Isle-sur-la-
Sorgue, is close by and well worth a detour.
Take Zou line 21 (8 July to 31 August), or rent a
bike (7.5 km).
Chateauneuf du Pape
Provence is famous for its superb wines and
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is where some of the
finest wines in the world are produced.
View of Orange theatre from the top of the wall
Isle sur la Sorgue © Marianne Furnes
A 30-minute train ride brings you to
Carpentras at the foot of Mont Ventoux. This
small city has a rather exotic feel, almost
Roman with a jumble of terracotta roofs atop
the higgledy-piggledy houses. The Romans
were in fact here, and though there are few
remains, traces of the city’s ancient history is
everywhere you look.
In 1313 Pope Clement V took up residence in
Carpentras. His successor moved the Papal
Court to Avignon before it was re-established
decades later in Rome. Carpentras was the
capital of what’s known as Comtat-Venaissin,
territory which belonged at one time to
the Counts of Provence, at another to the
Catholic Church, and didn’t become French
until 1791.
One of the legacies of the French Popes in
Carpentras is the Synagogue, created in
1367. The Jewish community, expelled from
France, was welcomed into Papal territory.
18 | The Good Life France Chateauneuf du Pape © A Hocquel, Vaucluse Tourism
The Good Life France | 19

Carpentas © A Hocquel, Vaucluse Tourism
The synagogue is one of the oldest still active
synagogues in Europe. Plus discover the Judaica
Collection, an incredible assembly of ancient
books, paintings and sculptures at Inguimbertine,
the only library-museum in France.
Carpentras’ Friday morning market is one of
the best in France. Some 350 stalls snake their
way along a warren of streets and plane tree
shaded squares. You’ll find everything from
clothes to baskets, shoes to cakes, fruit, veg,
truffles, olives marinated a dozen different
ways, pungent herbs, tangy cheese, aromatic
lavender and mouth-watering street food.
And if you're there on a Sunday morning,
enjoy the flea market under the plane trees in
the centre of town. Around 180 stalls set up at
the Parking des Platanes.
Carpentras is famous for its berlingot
bonbons, hard, translucent, striped, multiflavoured,
multi-coloured boiled sweets in
a tetrahedron shape. You can watch these
delicious little treats being made at the
Confiserie du Mont Ventoux.
Detours
Want to explore further? From Avignon you
can take a train to many southern French
Lavender fields
must-sees, including Nîmes, Montpellier,
Marseille and Arles, or a bus to the centre of
Aix-en-Provence.
Detailed itinerary for car
free Provence
It’s very easy to discover Provence without a
car, you’ll find a fabulous several day itinerary
to visit Vaucluse and it’s prettiest villages here:
provence guide.co.uk/routes
Useful information
Note: you can take bikes on TER trains (but
not TGV).
Avignon Tourist Office can recommend
tours of the lavender fields as well as guided
tours of Avignon (address: 41 Cr Jean
Jaurès, 5 minutes from the train station)
Guide to Hiking in Provence
Guide to biking in Provence
Find details of what to see and do in
Vaucluse, plus transport details here:
provenceguide
20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

©Vallée de la Gastronomie – France ® / Seense
The Vallee de la
Gastronomie
Janine Marsh undertakes a gastronomic odyssey of France…
The Vallee de la Gastronomie ® is a unique
route dedicated to food and wine. It straddles
three major regions of France from the
north to the south: Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes,
Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and Provence-
Alpes-Côte d’Azur.
It’s a path that follows a thousand-yearold
trade route and which now celebrates
passionate producers of the food world from
farmers and wine makers to chefs and all
involved in the production, processing and
traditions that make the rich heritage of
French gastronomy so incredible. It is the king
of gourmet routes, running for an astonishing
620km through France. Along the way it is
liberally peppered with the most delicious and
authentic producers, a mind-boggling 452
who have signed up to offer a special welcome
to visitors (usually in English as well as French),
offering guided tours, sensational tastings and
mouth-watering experiences.
Whilst this gastronomic journey is perfect for
a road trip, you don’t need a car, you can go
from town to town by train and bus as I did,
stopping off to meet with artisans, farmers
and chefs, indulge at the most fabulous
restaurants and explore gorgeous villages and
historic cities.
The Vallée de la Gastronomie website makes
it super easy to find out more about these
remarkable experiences.
A tasty trek
The Vallée de la Gastronomie broadly follows
the path of the mighty Rhône River between
vineyards and ancient towns, from Burgundy
to the Mediterranean Sea. The climate and
landscape differ hugely from place to place,
and each area has its savoir-fair, it’s know-
Marseille © Peter Jones
how, specialities and rich culinary history. The
Phoenicians founded Marseille and introduced
vines to France, Roman winemaking was
intensive along the Rhône Valley, in the 14th
century the Dukes of Burgundy planted Pinot
Noir grapes in Burgundy and the Popes of
Avignon in Provence planted yet more vines.
Meanwhile, the ‘gastronomic meal of the
French’ is listed on the UNESCO world
heritage list reflecting the exceptional
standard of French cuisine. Every region has
its own cuisine and specialities based on
local products, Bresse chickens of Burgundy,
bouillabaisse of Marseille, the black rice of the
Camargue – the list is endless. And along the
route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie, you’ll
discover the culinary diversity of French food
at its very best.
22 | The Good Life France Marseille
The Good Life France | 23

And though this route celebrates the historic
tasty treasures of France, it also honours
a constantly evolving gastronomic scene,
innovative chefs and ardent artisans. To be
included on the list requires the offering of a
‘remarkable experience’ to visitors, and every
applicant is carefully vetted before acceptance.
What was most remarkable to me was
how I discovered that everyone involved in
gastronomy was fervent about supporting
local producers, protecting traditions and
practicing art de vivre, the art of living well, but
also being innovative in creating food, being
organic, recycling and respecting the land and
the people who work on it. It was an ethos I
encountered over and over, almost a movement
that is people led – and people supported.
Frankly, I could write a book about my journey
but there isn’t room! At the centre of the trail
is Lyon, AKA the foodie capital of France, and
to the south of it, like a string of pearls, are a
plethora of towns and cities that pack a big
food and wine punch. Here is a tasty teaser of
Aix-en-Provence
what I discovered on my epicurean voyage of
France in the southern half of the Vallée de la
Gastronomie (the northern half will be in the
Autumn 2023 magazine.
Aix-en-Provence
The sun-kissed cultural, cosmopolitan and
elegant city of Aix is the Paris of Provence.
Cut in half by the Cours Mirabeau – an
avenue of stately mansions and bustling
restaurants which separates the renaissance
and medieval quarters, Aix is brimming with
museums and art galleries, boutiques and
a fabulous market, sunny terraces and
tinkling fountains.
Chocolate heaven
Who doesn’t love a tour of a chocolate
workshop?! At Chocolaterie de Puyricard,
a film, tour and tasting (available in English
– book in advance), will satisfy your inner
24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25

Willy Wonka and then some. “Butter from
Charente, cream from Alsace, almonds
and candied fruit from Provence...” says the
guide as I watch the magical transformation
of these delicious ingredients turned into
chocolate, calissons, ice cream and sweets.
French people eat 7-12 kg of chocolate a
year – I’m only surprised it’s not more when
it’s this good. They also host workshops.
Forget night in a museum, I’m dreaming of
night in a chocolate factory!
The Goat lady
Cheese lovers will adore the Ferme du
Brégalon. When I visited, Anais Girard, the
goat lady, was surrounded by baby goats
bleating and wanting cuddles or maybe to
hear her play the piano she keeps in the barn
“they love music as much as me” she says.
The farm is in a lovely, tranquil location,
perfect for picnics, about 20km from the
city and Anais and her husband also breed
goats for sale “we go on holidays at places
where our goats are” she laughs, happiness
is definitely goat shaped here. Production
is organic, manual and carried out with
love. You can meet the goats and taste the
goat milk products from tangy cheeses and
yoghurts to ice cream.
Innovative beer makers
In a former printworks factory turned
brasserie in Aix, quench your thirst with Aixmade
ale. What started as a passion project
for a couple of young beer makers has won
a legion of fans who flock to Aquae Maltae
for the innovative beers served with tapas
style snacks and a fun atmosphere. You’re
likely to find their beers in local restaurants
too – from lavender beer and garlic beer to
their popular Sainte-Victoire, named after
the local mountain that haunted the dreams
of Cezanne, as well as Mistral, a blonde beer
“perfect for hot days.”
The goats love to hear the goat lady play the piano
Gaodina
Enjoy a beer at Brasserie Aquae Maltae
Where to eat out:
Locals love: Restaurant Gaodina – lunch
or dinner here is like taking a mini holiday in
just a couple of hours. Just a mile or so from
the commercial centre, it’s surrounded by
meadows of wildflowers and Judas trees and
looks like a film set for ‘A Year in Provence’.
A fabulous menu at a great price, plus a
barbeque kitchen for sunny days and a
delicious wine list – outstandingly scrumptious!
Read our guide to Aix
26 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 27

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Marseille takes the biscuit
Marseille is famous for its bouillabaisse – a
rustic and chunky fish soup, but ask the
locals what they love best and they’re sure to
mention Les Navettes des Accoules. Jose
Orsoni, AKA “Jo Navettes”, loves to talk about
the famous biscuits of Marseille which he
makes at his store on the edge of Le Panier,
the old district of the city just 5 minutes
walk from the world-famous Museum of
Civilisations of Europe, MUCEM.
“Navettes are the perfect goûter, snack” he
says “stick one in your pocket, it won’t break
and you can nibble on it anytime – with coffee,
with tea and perfect with champagne, they go
with everything but not pastis” he grins.
The store is filled with divine aromas of these
unique to Marseille biscuits being baked in
front of you – it’s the “orange blossom water
that makes them so good, it’s not too sweet” he
says. He tells me that they were invented 300
years ago, and even after decades of making
them, he still eats them every day. People come
from far and wide for these sweet treats – if you
want to make like a local, join the queue!
28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29
Jo Navattes
Where to eat out
Locals love: Sepia, perched on the Puget hill,
there are fabulous views over the city as you
indulge in the truly delectable dishes.
Push the boat out: Restaurant Gerarh,
50 Cours Julien, a vibrant quarter that the
locals adore for its ambiance and brilliant
restaurants. Chef Gerarh Habib epitomises
the warm welcome of the south, with a
restaurant both refined and cosy, and a menu
that reflects his love of organic, local produce
and spices. Food to make you smile.
Stay at: Hôtel Maison Montgrand.
© Marie de Saint-Seine - Restaurant Gerarh

Captivating Cassis
I end my journey in style in the luminescent
seaside town of Cassis with a stay at the
magnificent Hotel Roches-Blanches, the
white rocks. A former private mansion built
in 1887, it became a hotel in the roaring 20s.
Here where Winston Churchill played and
Edith Piaf relaxed, you will find the sort of
French paradise hotel that you dream of and
see in films but don’t really believe it exists.
There are 45 rooms, every one of them
memorable. Four restaurants tease, tantalise
and tempt your taste buds.
And the view from my room over the beautiful
Cap Canaille, the tallest cliff in Europe, glowing
the colour of toasted apricots as the sun kisses
the Mediterranean Sea at the close of day is
nothing short of soul inspiring. It is one of those
places that everyone should experience for true
pleasure and French art de vivre.
From Cassis (or nearby Marseille) the
Calanques are a must-visit, soaring limestone
coves lapped by the turquoise sea water – go
in the morning if you can, the light is better!
There’s just so much to fall in love with in this
lovely little town from cobbled streets lined
with boutiques, bars and bistros, to the famous
route des Cretes along the coast and sandy
beaches. But I’m here for the food and wine so
I head to the restaurant La Vieille Auberge
on the Quai Jean-Jacques Barthélémy for
lunch. I would be happy just drinking in the
views from this place but the menu is seriously
lip-smacking.
Cassis
Room with a view at Hotel Roches-Blanches
Les Belles Canailles restaurant,
Hotel Roches-Blanches
Nectar of the gods
A stone’s throw from the centre of town,
surrounded by vineyards you’ll find Domaine
Tigana. And if that name rings a bell,
it’s because the wine maker is legendary
footballer and coach - Jean Tigana, formerly
of Les Blues and Fulham FC amongst many
other prestigious clubs. He produces 75%
white and 25% rosé wines from 14 acres,
“wine is about passion, not about money,
Sunday brunch at Hotel Roches-Blanches
30 | The Good Life France The Good Life France Cassis | 31

and yes football is about passion too though
playing football is harder” he laughs gleefully.
He’s here every day and totally hands on
from serving customers to delivering to local
restaurants which lap up his award-winning
wines “there’s never enough left to export”
he says as he pours me a glass after a tour of
the vineyards and cellars (in English), though
luckily, if you go to the shop you can buy it –
and it’s seriously good.
On my travels I only touched the tip of the
taste sensation that makes up this incredible
food and wine adventure trail – I’ll be back…
You can find heaps of details about the
experiences, offers, the territories and
destinations and book your visit here:
valleedelagastronomie.com/en
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Cassis vineyard in the shadow of Cap Canaille
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32 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 33

The French
BASQUE Country
Gillian Thornton soaks up the vivid colours and
vibrant culture of French Basque Country
Wherever you choose to holiday in France,
there’s no escaping the blue, white and red of
the French flag, patriotically displayed outside
town halls and other civic buildings. But head
to the far-southwest where the green foothills
of the Pyrenees meet the rolling surf of the
Atlantic and you’ll soon see that the Tricolore
has competition.
The vivid red and white flag of Basque
Country celebrates the culture and lifestyle
of an unofficial country within a country. Or
to be entirely accurate, within two countries,
for the seven historic provinces of Basque
Country straddle the Pyrenean mountain
range. The four largest ones lie in Spain,
whilst the other three make up the western
half of France’s Department 64, Pyrénées-
Atlantiques. Historically, the provinces
share customs, culture and even a common
language, Euskara. Now widely taught in
local schools it bears no resemblance at all to
French, or indeed any other language.
Basque architecture is as distinctive as
the language. Wooden timbers painted in
traditional ox-blood red or forest green splash
across whitewashed facades at every turn,
giving a permanently upbeat feel to towns
and villages, whatever the weather. But
there’s a grander side to the Pays Basque
too in the Belle Epoque mansions of elegant
34 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 35

Biarritz. Napoleon III and his wife Eugènie
commissioned a sumptuous summer palace
here on the seafront, now repurposed as the
5* Hôtel du Palais. And where the emperor
went, the aristocracy of Europe followed,
building flamboyant seaside villas of their own.
But in the 1950s, this chic seaside resort
welcomed a new kind of clientele with the
advent of Californian surf culture. Seventy
years on, Biarritz still exudes this heady mix
of period elegance and buzzing youth culture,
and there are few nicer ways to soak it up than
to walk the undulating promenade around the
Grande Plage where surfers skilfully ride the
waves towards the Casino.
My favourite coastal stroll leads south, past
the old fishing port with its buzzing quayside
restaurants and round the headland to the
town’s excellent aquarium. Opposite the Art
Deco façade, a high-level walkway leads
over the waves to the emblematic statue
of the Virgin on a rock, so walk on water to
catch those sweeping views back across the
Grande Plage to the lighthouse. Stop off for
a meal or a drink at the Vieux Port then drop
down to the Côtes des Basques, birthplace of
surfing in France, for more surfboard action
and views to La Rhune, highest point in the
western Pyrenees.
But Biarritz isn’t the only gem on the French
Basque Coast. Small resorts dot the sandy
shoreline as you head towards Spain, but
the must-see seaside town is Saint-Jeande-Luz
where Louis XIV married Maria
Theresa of Spain in 1660 at the church of
St John the Baptist, today located on the
main shopping street.
If you’re searching for gifts, take a look at
traditional striped Basque linens, buy a pair
of local espadrilles, or maybe stock up at
Maison Adam on scrumptious macaroons, first
presented to Louis XIV before his wedding. His
bride-to-be spent the eve of the ceremony at
the pink-washed ‘Infanta House’ overlooking
the busy fishing harbour.
Across the harbour in Ciboure stands the
birthplace of composer Maurice Ravel who
Espelette
The Virgin on the Rock
penned his famous Boléro in 1928 whilst on
holiday in St-Jean-de-Luz.
North of Biarritz, the straight sandy shore of
Anglet embraces a succession of well-serviced
beaches such as Chambre d’Amour as far
as the mouth of the Adour. A few kilometres
upriver lies Bayonne, unofficial capital of
French Basque Country and administratively
linked with Biarritz and Anglet as B-A-B.
Immerse yourself in what it means to be
Basque at the Basque Museum, housed in a
former merchant’s house on the quayside.
Explore the narrow streets of half-timbered
houses in the cathedral quarter. And, on
Saturday mornings, browse the street stalls
that fringe the quaysides and bridges around
the covered market.
For a true taste of the town, discover
Bayonne’s two signature products, chocolate
and ham. Chocolate first arrived in France
in the 16th century via Jewish immigrants
escaping the Spanish inquisition and there
are many independent chocolate makers
each with their own speciality. Look out too
for producers of Bayonne’s famous cured
ham, made from Basque Country pig meat
that is cured and treated with local salt and
with crushed pimentos from the nearby
village of Espelette.
Tempting though it is to linger by the
ocean, the lush green interior of French
Basque Country is a must-see. Take the
cog railway to the top of La Rhune for a
seagull’s eye view of coast and countryside.
Go underground at the Grottes de Sare and
the Grottes d’Isturitz and Oxocelhaya for
fabulous rock formations. And at Camboles-Bains,
stroll through the glorious formal
garden and sun-drenched rooms of Villa
Arnaga, former home of Edmond Rostand,
author of Cyrano de Bergerac.
Nearby Espelette is an extravaganza in red
and white, not just in the architecture and
flags, but in the ubiquitous strings of scarlet
peppers that adorn houses, shop fronts, and
restaurants. Along with Sare, Ainhoa and La
Bastide-Clairance, Espelette is classified
36 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 37

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And wherever you stop, look out for a curious
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required for Basque Country’s signature game,
pelota, played squash-style against the wall.
Variations of the game – some of them played
indoors – use a leather glove, wicker basket or
even a bare hand to hit the ball in this highoctane
sport.
But there’s a third sport that seems part of
the Basque DNA. Several high profile rugby
players hail from the region and a number of
former internationals can be found running
restaurants, bars and even clothing brands.
Passions run high when the whistle blows and
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38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39

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For centuries the Kings of France made the
Loire Valley their royal playground, a favourite
place to hunt, eat, drink and be very merry.
With a mild climate, fertile soil that makes it
the market garden of France and excellent
wines, it’s no surprise that the lure of the Loire
was irresistible. It still is says Janine Marsh...
Every year Kings and queens and the nobility
of France made their way from Paris to stay
in their beautiful castles and create glorious
gardens. They took with them beds, furniture,
tableware, all the things that made life
pleasant. In those days, items such as this
were not so readily available and often had
a huge price tag. King Francis 1, he who built
the vast Renaissance chateau of Chambord,
had so much baggage it took 12,000 horses to
carry it all.
40 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 41

Thankfully many of those glorious chateaux
survived the destruction of wars and the
French Revolution and a whole new legion
of fans of the Loire Valley came along and
it became especially popular with Parisians
since, as it never ceases to surprise me, you
can hop on a train in the centre of Paris and
alight in Tours, the gateway to the Loire Valley,
not much more than an hour later.
Tours – at the heart of the
Loire Valley
Tours is central to the UNESCO-listed (World
Heritage of Humanity) Loire Valley with its
majestic chateaux which give it the nickname
‘the valley of kings’. Surrounded by tranquil
countryside, verdant vineyards, historic towns
and charming villages, Tours itself is well worth
a visit and makes a great base if you only have
time for a weekend or short visit.
Within a radius of less than 30 miles are
some of the Loire Valley’s most stunning
castles – picturesque Chenonceau, and Clos
Lucé where Leonardo da Vinci lived out his
last years having ridden a donkey across
the Alps from Italy, carrying his not quite
finished Mona Lisa with him. And a stone’s
throw away, Amboise is where da Vinci is
laid to rest. Meanwhile Villandry has quite
possibly the most marvellous gardens of the
Loire, Ussé AKA the ‘sleeping beauty castle’ is
magical. And then there’s the stunning Azayle-Rideau
set on its own little island, plus the
nearby charming, less well-known Chateaux
de l’Islette where the great sculpture Rodin
stayed with his muse and lover Camille
Claudelle, and Saché where Honoré de
Balzac wrote some of his greatest works, often
walking there from Tours, where he was born.
Those Summer nights
In the summer months, don’t miss the fabulous
Guingette de Tours. Just a few minutes from
Guingette dancers
the centre of the city, you’ll find it by the
landmark Ferris Wheel. Nip down the big
staircase and there you’ll enjoy a laid-back
meal at possibly Tour’s most welcoming, and
delicious, outdoor restaurant as you bask in
the twinkling lights alongside the mighty Loire,
France’s longest river. There’s something a
bit magical about the guingette, the sort of
place a grown up harry Potter would love. On
summer nights, as the sky turns the colour of
the ripest peaches you ever saw, the sun’s rays
create a glittering kaleidoscope reflecting off
silver disco balls, as birds swoop across the
river and people tango with abandon with
a dance teacher on hand to help novices. If
that sounds all too energetic, simply pluck a
book from the shelves and relax in one of the
comfy chairs.
Cathedrale Saint-Gatien ©_ADT Touraine – Jean-Christophe Coutand
The food is outstanding. It’s happy food. You
look around and people are smiling as they
eat. Bursting with flavour, pesto, basil, the
freshest and local products. The portions are
generous, but you won’t want to miss a single
mouthful! This bar and restaurant is perfect
for a romantic night out, for solo travellers like
me, for families and for friends.
This little piggy went to
market
France excels when it comes to mouthwatering
markets – but the one in Tours,
known as the belly of Tours – stands out. It’s
the place to go for fabulous fresh produce,
from pastries to chocolate and cheese,
vegetables, wine and a whole lot more. The
covered market is absolutely delicious. I
didn’t intend to spend a whole morning here
but I was so transfixed by the displays and
the produce, some of which I’ve never seen
anywhere else – like Sainte Maure de Touraine
42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43

Loire Brakes
Loire Brakes
Slow Down And Enjoy The View
Tour the beautiful Loire Valley at your own pace with a guided e-bike holiday
loirebrakes.com
cheese and pressed pears tapée (dried) tart –
I couldn’t help myself.
History and culture
Visit the old town and wander the cobbled
streets to admire the ancient half-timbered
houses. Follow the historic Circuit Saint Martin
in the footsteps of Saint Martin to discover
the main monuments relating to the Roman
officer who became Bishop of Tours. When he
died in nearby Candes in November 397 AD,
monks rowed his body to be interred in Tours
and it was said that where they passed, flowers
bloomed, trees grew leaves and birds sang
giving rise to the French phrase St Martin’s
Summer (in English Indian Summer). The
pilgrimage of Tours is one of the oldest
of Christendom.
There are several art venues and museums
including the Musée du Compagnonnage
which is extraordinary. Dedicated to trades
guilds, it’s located in the former monks
dormitory of the Benedictine Abbey of
Saint Julien (13th-18th century). UNESCO
listed (Intangible Cultural Heritage)
Compagnonnage dates back from the end of
the Middle Ages, ''knighthood of the working
class'' George Sand called it). You’ll discover
an impressive display of tools, engravings,
woodwork and even a chateau made of sugar.
Stay at: Hotel de Cygne in the centre but
in a quiet street, in one of oldest mansions in
Tours. The renovated 18th century rooms are
charming and have oodles of character.
Day trips: Take a chateau day trip with
French family-run Ophorus tours
Stay longer and take a fabulous tour by e-bike
and discover the Loire Valley with
Loire brakes
Tourist Office: touraineloirevalley.com
44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

Nibbling around
NORMANDY
Gillian Thornton samples and sips her way through cheese and cider country.
In 1962, former French President Charles de
Gaulle famously bemoaned the challenges of
governing a country ‘with 246 different kinds
of cheese’. So the task must be even harder
for today’s President. Sixty years on from De
Gaulle’s gastronomic analogy, France now lists
over 400 varieties, including more than 60
that have been awarded Appellation d’Origine
Contrôlée (AOC) status in France and, more
recently the European label, Appellation
d’Origine Protegée (AOP).
French cheeses come in all shapes, sizes and
strengths, lovingly produced on both artisan
and industrial scale from the milk of cows,
goats and even sheep. But whilst some are
appreciated only in their local area, one French
cheese is famous throughout the world. One
of four AOC cheeses to come from the lush
farmland of Normandy, Camembert is instantly
recognisable with its distinctive circular shape,
wooden box and colourful label.
Normandy’s magnificent coastline is famous
for its top quality seafood but turn your back
on the sea and the bocage landscape of
cattle meadows and apple orchards combine
to produce the perfect cheese course, not to
mention a range of liquid accompaniments to
carry you from apéro to digestif. Even better,
you can always find someone willing to show
you how these signature products are made
and to sell you their produce direct from
source – just ask at any local tourist office or
go to normandie.tourisme.fr for inspiration.
Bocage doesn’t get much more beautiful
than in the Pays d’Auge which lies east of
Caen, ducal HQ for William of Normandy in
the 11th century and the last resting place of
this illegitimate son who took England’s top
job in 1066 as King William I. Think small,
wooded valleys and rich pastures lined with
thick hedgerows, spring trees laden with
apple blossom, and traditional half-timbered
houses. This is inland Normandy at its most
picturesque with some of the most fetching
cattle you’ll see anywhere – brown and white
with uniform brown eye patches.
Spread out around the town of Lisieux, the
Pays d’Auge is the birthplace of traditional
Camembert, invented by farmer’s wife Marie
Harel. There’s a statue of her – and also
one of a very fine cow – in the small town of
Vimoutiers, but her famous cheese was created
at the Manoir de Beaumoncel in the nearby
hamlet of Camembert in 1791.
A priest fleeing from revolutionaries in his native
area of Brie shared a cheese manufacturing
secret with Madame Harel, who went on to
create the cheese we know today. During the
First World War, large quantities were sent to
French troops on the Western Front to boost
morale, helping to turn Camembert into a
national symbol. In 1983, authentic Camembert
de Normandie was given protected status.
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Discover the full story at Maison du
Camembert in the heart of the tiny village
which includes a visit to the adjacent Clos de
Beaumoncel cheese factory. Here you can
look through glass to see how Normandy milk
is transformed into traditional handmade
Camembert – up to 6000 organic and AOP/
PDO cheeses per week.
Marie Harel statue at Vimoutiers
And of course the visit ends with a
comparative tasting of artisan and
industrially made Camembert in the onsite
shop. I lingered too over the display of
colourful pictorial labels commemorating
various anniversaries of the D-Day Landings
in 1944. Each one is a mini work of art
which graphically illustrates the attraction
of taking up tyrosemiophilia as a hobby.
Cheese label collecting to you and me!
maisonducamembert.com
Camembert nestles in the Orne department
and a handy sign at the entrance to the
village points the way to Normandy’s other
AOC cheeses. Just 15km to the north in the
department of Calvados is Livarot-Pays-d-
Auge, home town of Livarot with its orange
rind and powerful flavour. Don’t be surprised
if you hear someone ask for a wedge of
‘Colonel’ – Livarot’s nickname thanks to the
five ‘military’ stripes of reed or paper around
the circumference.
Head north again and 54km from
Camembert, Pont-L’Evèque nestles between
Lisieux and Deauville, still within the
Pays d’Auge area of Calvados. Square or
rectangular in shape, its eponymous mild
cheese is covered with a rind that ranges in
colour from golden yellow to orange.
For Normandy’s fourth AOP cheese, you
need to cross the river Seine to Neufchâtelen-Bray
in the department of Seine-
Maritime, 171 km from Camembert. Covered
in a thin white edible layer, Neufchâtel is a
favourite for romantic dinners thanks to its
traditional heart-shape that harks back to the
Middle Ages when local girls would offer their
cheeses to occupying English troops during
the Hundred Years War.
Few drinks go better with Normandy’s
flavourful cheeses than a glass of local dry
cider or – for the drivers – farm-produced apple
juice. Normandy’s apple orchards stretch over
a wide area, but the self-drive Route du Cidre
winds its way through the heartland of the AOC
Cidre du Pays d’Auge production area, linking
the villages of Cambremer and Bonnebosq with
the postcard-pretty community of Beuvronen
Auge, classified amongst Les Plus Beaux
Villages de France.
Created in 1974, the Cambremer Cider Route
was the first trail in France to be launched by
producers keen to promote the quality of their
products and their warm hospitality. Today
you will find almost 20 ‘Cru de Cambremer’
producers along the route, all open to visitors
– find full details, including opening hours, on
routeducidre.com
Some farms only produce cider; others apple
juice, cider jelly, and even cheese. Look out
too for Pommeau AOC de Normandie, a
delicious apple aperitif made from threeparts
pressed apples – or must - to one part
Calvados, the area’s famous apple spirit. And
whilst Calvados improves with age – if you can
resist opening it, of course – young Calvados
works particularly well in cocktails.
The Pays d’Auge is a delight for walkers with
its gentle countryside, timber-framed manor
houses, and pretty churches, as well as small
stud farms producing the top quality horses
for which Normandy is famous. There are
surprises too. Bonnesbosq has named its
sports ground after a famous Hollywood actor
who owned a mansion in the neighbourhood
– none other than Yul Brynner, star of 1956
movie The King and I and, three years
later, The Magnificent Seven. And close
to Cambremer stands the bijou medieval
castle of Crèvecoeur-en-Auge, which hosts
exhibitions and ‘living history’ re-enactments
during the summer months.
Then there’s Beuvron-en-Auge, less than
20 minutes’ drive from the seaside resort
of Cabourg on the Côte Fleurie. Don’t
miss it, but do try to visit outside of peak
times, especially in summer, when its many
restaurants and tempting antique shops are
bustling with visitors. Expect crowds too during
the cider festival in late October. But this
elite Plus Beau Village is a gem with its broad
square, covered market and craft workshops,
all surrounded by tranquil countryside.
Small wonder that it too has attracted a
celebrity resident, world-famous British artist
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Neufchatel and Camembert
David Hockney who moved close to the village
in 2019. Inspired by the light of Norman skies
and the arrival of spring in the Pays d’Auge,
Hockney produced a 90-metre frieze from
scenes ‘painted’ on an iPad and inspired by
the Bayeux Tapestry. First displayed at Salts
Beuvron en Auge
Mill near Bradford in his native Yorkshire,
A Year in Normandie has also been exhibited
in Paris and most recently at Bayeux, a
glorious tribute to this tranquil corner of
Norman countryside.
Boozy baked Camembert recipe
Unwrap the cheese and then place back
in the box. Tie some string around the box
so it keeps its shape.
Make small incisions in the top of the
cheese. Peel and finely slice the garlic
and poke it into the Camembert with a
few small sprigs of thyme.
250g Camembert
Bunch fresh thyme
2 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon maple syrup (or honey)
1 tablespoon brandy
Mix the honey and brandy together and
drizzle over the cheese.
Bake at 170°C for around 20 minutes.
Peel back the top and dip, dunk and
dollop chunks of bread in, crackers, or a
very easy to make tarte de soleil which
will give this dish a whole load of wow
factor appeal!
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Saint-Cirq
Lapopie
The ‘pearl of the Lot Valley’ a wondrous,
cliffhanging beauty of a village in the
Lot… by Sue Aran and Janine Marsh
“It was in June 1950, as we rode by car…that I
first saw Saint-Cirq, blazing with Bengal Fire,
like a rose in the night…It was love at first
sight…Above any other place in the world,
in America or Europe, Saint-Cirq is my one
place of enchantment…I stopped wanting to
be elsewhere” – André Breton, writer and one
of the founders of the surrealism movement
Saint-Cirq Lapopie, officially one of the most
beautiful villages in France, lies within the
Parc natural régional des Causses du Quercy
in the Lot. It’s an area known historically
as Aquitania Prima, the ancient Quercy
region in southwest France, composed of the
Lot, Lot-et-Garonne and Tarn-et-Garonne
départments.
The best way to reach it is via the road from
Cahors, just 18km to Saint-Cirq (pronounced
Saint ’Sear’). The route is lined with cliffs
and threads its way through the majestic Lot
Valley. Then suddenly medieval Saint-Cirq is
above you, perched almost 100m above the
Lot river, looking like a mirage.
Saint-Cirq, enclosed by fortified gates and
punctured by picturesque bridges, is small but
perfectly formed. Once a castle crowned its
heights, perfect for seeing long distances, it
made the town a defensive stronghold. Built in
the 8th century by the Duke of Aquitaine, the
castle became the property of the Lapopie
family and did its job well. Even Richard
the Lionheart couldn’t capture it. But those
defences worked too well, and afraid that
it would fall into enemy hands one day and
never be retrieved, Louis XI of France ordered
its destruction in 1471. From the ruins there are
beautiful views over the rooftops of the village.
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, nicknamed the ‘pearl
of the Lot Valley’ was the first village to be
crowned “favourite village of the French” by
the France Télévisions program in 2012. There
are more than a dozen historical monuments
and clifftop cobbled streets, hollyhocks grow
out of cracks in the pavement bordering the
ancient houses, cafés, charming restaurants
and artisan shops.
The 16th century Gothic church, l’Église de
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Saint-Cirq is topped by a mighty bell tower,
above a chapel built during the Gallo-Roman
era. Beautiful 13th to 16th century stone
and half-timbered houses (13 of which are
registered historic buildings) line the steep
winding streets.
The River Lot curls its way along the bottom
of the limestone cliff. Head to the bottom of
the village for a 3-mile walk along the river.
You’ll be glad to know it’s flat, and well worth
the effort for the beautiful scenery. You can
rent a boat or take a guided river tour from
the tiny port.
The 17th century locks of the Lot river helped
the village to prosper commercially as
garbarres (flat bottomed boats) transported
local produce, tobacco and wine to Cahors
and Bordeaux. The village was famous for its
craftsmen woodturners and it’s said that they
collectively invented the wooden taps for wine
barrels! Today the village is home to many
artisans and galleries and boutiques line its
medieval streets.
During the middle of the 20th century, the
pointillist artist, Henri Martin and the Catalan
artist, PIerre Daura loved to holiday in Saint-
Cirq, as well as the American photographer
Man Ray. The surrealist writer, André Breton
spent his summers here and his former 13th
century house, the oldest in the village and a
former sailors inn, now hosts the International
Centre of Surrealism.
Over many thousands of years humans have
left their handprints, quite literally, in the
Quercy region. Some of the earliest traces
of cave dwellers dating back to 25,000 BC,
can be found in the Grotte du Pech Merle,
just below Saint-Cirq. The caves are still
open to the public, unlike the famous caves
of Lascaux, a 100 km northwest, which have
been closed since 2006.
There are plenty of places to take a break,
watch the life of the village going on, indulge
in the local cuisine and a glass of the fullbodied
red wine the area is famous for. There’s
a tiny wine museum which showcases local
produce and wines including tastings. For
LE MOULIN
SUR CÉLÉ
An enchanting luxurious riverside retreat in the beautiful Célé Valley
Experience la France Profonde
www.lemoulinsurcele.com
an authentic taste of the Lot, Le Gourmet
Quercynois will satisfy your soul. In a 17thcentury
house, regional specialities star - duck,
truffles and their renowned apple pudding
which features pastis and plum liqueur in puff
pastry served with salted caramel ice cream.
Tip: Drive to the upper parking lot unless you’re
a seasoned climber, as the lower parking lot is
quite a strenuous hike to the village proper.
Stay at: Le Moulin-sur-Célé opens its doors
in the summer of 2023. An exquisite holiday
home in a magical setting, surrounded by
glorious countryside and vineyards in the
Lot Valley. Less than 30 minutes from Saint-
Cirq-Lapopie, Cahors and the wonderful
Rocamadour, Le Moulin-sur-Célé is a
destination in itself, a private refuge, perfect
for families, couples and friends in a sublime
natural environment with pool, tennis court
and private sandbank along the river. Find our
more: lemoulinsurcele.com
Tourist office: cahorsvalleedulot.com
54 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 55

HIDDEN
GEM:
Le Grand
Bornand,
Haute-
Savoie
Vue village © C. Chabod - Le Grand Bornand Tourisme
Le Grand Bornand near Aravis, within
the Annecy Mountains region is a skier’s
delight, but it’s also an absolutely fabulous
summer destination. You’ll discover a
vibrant little town, with plenty of shops, bars
and restaurants plus a plethora of activities
including fantastic hiking and biking routes,
as well as culture and heritage, set against
a backdrop of mountains covered in
greenery and wildflowers. It really is a little
hidden gem…
What to see and do in
the town
Le Grand Bornand is small enough to get to
know it well in a day, big enough to keep you
happy for a week or more, and surrounded by
glorious countryside.
This is a town that loves cows and there’s a
year-round Cow Art Trail, an open-air tour
featuring artworks paying homage to the
humble cow!
You’ll also find here the shop of Didier Perrillat,
one of the last artisans making leather goods
in Haute-Savoie, including necklaces for cows!
Did you know every cow has a unique bell?
And a good farmer can recognise an individual
cow by its ring? Cows here wear daytime bells
but they may have a special “dress” bell which
is much bigger and heavier and worn for shows
and special occasions. Didier makes beautiful
leather straps for the bells to hang on for those
special occasions! You can watch him creating
all sorts of leather goods from purses to bags
in his cosy shop Chez Le Bourrelier.
Nature lovers and families will love La Source, an
authentic farm with exhibition rooms, workshops,
play areas, a quirky cow sculpture (of course),
plus a bar and café set in stunning surroundings.
The town makes for a great base for touring
the area by car, bike, on foot or even on roller
skis, great practice for the winter season and
Didier in his workshop
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a terrific way to get fit. It’s the outstanding
natural beauty of the area that is the real star
though with a photo opp at every step.
Around and about
A short drive from Le Grand Bornand you’ll
find the Col des Aravis. At 1498m it has
magnificent views that take your breath away.
Those ski lifts that make skiers life easy, also
work in the summer and make for a fun ride.
Mountain bikers will love the 178km of cycle
paths weave their way through the Massif des
Aravis mountain range - there are 16 trails,
a bike park and even a bike school offering
guided night-time e-bike rides including dinner
in a high-altitude restaurant and a starlit
descent to the village. Don’t fancy breaking
into a sweat? Hop on an e-bike and take an
18km route that offers spectacular views over
the Aravis Mountains, great for the whole family
with a farmhouse auberge stop en route.
Hikers are spoiled for choice with a huge
variety of signposted walks for those who like
a challenge, or those who like to wander in
peace and not run out of puff.
Art Vache © Alpcat Medias
Eat out
The high street of Le Grand Bornand is lined
with delicious gourmet food shops – cheese,
chocolate and charcuterie galore. There’s
an award winning boulangerie at Le Petit
Marquis with speciality breads of Savoie,
and if you’ve got a sweet tooth, head to
Gourmandises d’Antan and try the “alpine
snowflakes”, “Aravis crystals” and more
delicious little treats.
There are plenty of restaurants and bars in the
town from gastronomic to traditional. Head up
into the mountains for glorious views and more
fabulous restaurants.
Enjoy a meal high up in the fresh air, there’s
nothing quite like it to whet your appetite
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and there’s lots of great choice. For
views, ambiance and scrumptious dishes,
Restaurant les Rhodos ticks all the boxes
Don’t miss a cheese tasting – this is
Reblochon cheese country. First produced
in the 13th century, it’s a traditional taste
of the Mountains. Find out more about
the history of the area, life in the past
and Reblochon cheese at the Le Hameau
des Alpes museum at nearby La Clusaz.
And don’t miss out on tartiflette, a melted
cheese melange of lardons, cream, onion
and potato topped with Reblochon -
perfect after a bike ride or ramble on a
summer’s day.
Chalet Alti
Chalet Argali
Stay at:
Chalet Alti - Just 700m from the centre of
Le Grand Bornand, the five star, beautifully
furnished chalet offers a fabulous mountain
getaway at any time of year and sleeps up
to 14 guests. Offering amazing views, guests
can enjoy the hot tub in the garden, a sauna
and a dedicated children’s floor.
Chalet Argali - A gorgeous five-star chalet
which sleeps up to 14, set on the edge of Le
Grand Bornand Chinaillon, with easy access
to fantastic walking and cycling. With a
sauna, a lovely sunny terrace with outdoor
dining area, a petanque court, table football
and board games, this is a perfect mountain
chalet for all the family.
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

CHOCOLATE –
France’s mild obsession
We all know Paris as the city of love or the
city of lights - but did you know it is also the
city of chocolate shops? The ‘Chocolate
Capital’ boasts over 300 dedicated stores,
claiming the title around the world. It’s no
wonder we think the French have a mild
obsession with chocolate says food writer
Ally Mitchel…
France is besotted, and produces around
700 000 tonnes of chocolate each year.
This love goes back all the way to the 17th
century, when chocolate was an aphrodisiac
drug lorded around Versailles, and nobles
hired their own personal chocolate makers.
However, it wasn’t all chocolate parties –
it’s a tale of trade wars and greed which
brought chocolate to the French stage.
For thousands of years, the Olmecs, then
Mayans of ancient Mesoamerica (the
Mexico of today), drank a brew of cacao.
And by the 1500s, the Aztecs had adopted
a similar cultural practice, drinking xoc*l*tl
meaning ‘bitter water’, and traded the
beans as currency. This ‘drink of the gods’
was consumed by the King Montezuma 50
times a day and was said to possess mystical
medicinal and aphrodisiac properties.
In the 16th century, Christopher Columbus
allegedly brought cacao beans back to Europe
after exploring the Americas, but these fruits
were considered too bitter to gain any public
excitement. However, when the Spanish
conquistadores including Hernán Cortés
returned with the beans in the late 1500s, the
publicity grew - especially when the Spanish
court added other colonial imports, including
sugar, to make it more palatable. The Spanish
then kept the joy of chocolate a trade secret
for the next decade.
Chocolate came to southern France in the
early 1600s, introduced by Jewish migrants
who settled in Bayonne, bringing with the
secret of chocolate-making. Over the next
two hundred years, this community founded
the first French chocolate companies,
and established Bayonne as France’s first
chocolatier city. Finally, the Spanish secret of
chocolate was released around Europe.
By 1615, chocolate was the darling of the
French court. The 14-year-old Spanish
princess Anne of Austria presented her
betrothed King Louis XIII with a chest filled
with chocolate, and from then on it was the
exclusive indulgence of the Kings of France
and their courts. Consumed in liquid form, this
exoticism was flavoured with other mystical
ingredients such as coffee, cloves and vanilla,
all considered to possess medicinal or druglike
qualities. Most of all, the French court
deemed chocolate an aphrodisiac thanks to
its revitalising qualities and its Aztec roots,
which, to the French aristocrats’ sensibilities,
meant it was wildly sensual. In 1702, a doctor
reported that, ‘Chocolate's properties are
such that they stimulate Venus' ardour’.
Under Louis XIV, chocolate in all its forms was
a feature of Versailles’ cuisine. Confectioners
were hired exclusively to make the nobles
daily hot chocolates. He himself developed
such a taste for chocolate, that it was deemed
a continuous supply was essential. So he
ordered the cultivation of cocoa beans in
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the French-owned West Indies. His own
chocolatier David Chaillou was bestowed
with the privilege of being the country’s
only chocolate trader. He opened the first
chocolate factory in 1659, a monopoly that
lasted for 29 years.
The fascination for chocolate continued with
the king’s successors. Louis XV could be found
in the kitchens making his own hot chocolate,
the recipe of which still survives today. His
favourite mistresses, Madame de Pompadour
and Madame du Barry regularly drank hot
chocolate and inspired court gossip. Madame
de Pompadour’s low libido was notorious so
drinking chocolate ‘heated her blood’ whereas
Madame du Barry was at the opposite end of
the spectrum, and it was claimed chocolate
elicited her ‘insatiable lust’.
Louis XVI, along with Marie-Antoinette, was
a connoisseur of the beverage. The queen’s
own chocolate maker was none other than
Chaillou’s great-great-grandson Sulpice
Debauve. By now, all noble families had their
own chocolatier, yet the royal couple had two,
including the king’s personal physician since
chocolate was still believed to be medicinally
beneficial. Marie-Antoinette started each
day with a cup of hot chocolate served
with whipped cream in the Viennese style.
Debauve made her chocolate medallions
Step back in time
and discover the past at
Azincourt 1415 historic centre
Azincourt1415.com
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
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Pistolles de Marie-Antoinette © Debauve & Sulpice
which disguised the taste of bitter medicine
that the Queen took for her headaches. Known
as “Pistoles de Marie-Antoinette” they were the
first chewable chocolates. They were such a
success that, in 1823, at his Parisian chocolate
shop, he created ‘dietary’ chocolates for
good health - flavoured with orange blossom
and vanilla. To this day “Pistoles de Marie-
Antoinette” are still made by Debauve & Gallais
– though without the headache medicine.
By then, in the post-revolution climate,
chocolate was finally available to the masses,
yet was still considered to be a medicine,
so it was marketed by pharmaceutical
company, Menier. The company opened their
first factory in 1814 and sold chocolate as a
soothing yet mildly stimulating recreational
drug. By the end of the 19th century, it was
La famille du Duc de Penthièvre AKA the cup of chocolate,
1768 Jean-Baptiste Charpentier le Vieux
believed to be the world’s largest chocolate
factory with plantations and railroads, and
sold wrapped chocolate bars, recognisable as
the chocolate we know and love today.
France’s hold over chocolate may have waned
over the last century, especially with Menier
being absorbed by global conglomerate
Nestle, but there is still an illicit charm to
French chocolate. The devilish chocolate
truffle is uniquely French, allegedly created
by the Dufour family in 1895. La Maison du
Chocolat and Valrhona are two high-quality
French brands loved around the world, and
we must not forget the one and only pain au
chocolat – France’s disguised excuse to eat
chocolate for breakfast – and of course, the
very French chocolat chaud, a taste of an
abandoned opulence.
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Hyères, the Presqu’île
Hyères in the Cote d’Azur, southern France has it all – sun, sea, sand, stunning
architecture, superb restaurants, delicious local wines and the chance to go island
hopping says local Aaron James.
and its Islands:
HIDDEN GEMS
of the Côte d’Azur
A sunny ‘Belle Epoque’ town of the French
Riviera, this beautiful coastal hub boasts 2,400
years of history and is home to remarkable
natural heritage such as the National Park of
Port-Cros and the Ile d’Or Archipelago.
History lovers will adore the intricate medieval
quarter and ancient Greek archaeological site.
There are perfect conditions for water sports
and remarkable wildlife for those who love the
Beach Hyères
outdoors. And if you want to relax by the sea,
you’re totally spoilt for choice with numerous
coves and glorious soft sand beaches spread
along the Presqu’île de Giens and its islands.
Few foreign tourists choose to holiday in
Hyères, opting instead for the town’s glitzy
neighbour St Tropez. While this won’t mean
that hotels and restaurants are empty (it’s
a favourite with the French), it certainly
means that the area possesses a more
authentic, ‘unspoilt’ feeling.
A little bit of history
As the oldest resort on the French Riviera, it
is hardly surprising that the town is steeped
in history. You can’t help but marvel at
the remains of the Hellenic city of Olbia,
established in 4BC, or at the ancient Greek
archaeological site near Almanarre beach.
Meanwhile, just up the road, there was a
Roman settlement at Pomponiana.
Pass through the Porte de la Rade, erected
in the late twelfth century, and you’ll feel
as if you’ve stepped back in time as you
stroll the town’s medieval winding streets
and ogle the centuries old houses. Don’t
miss the Tour de Blaise as you check out
the delicious delicatessens and lively
fishmongers, artisan shops and booksellers
en route. Also known as the Tour des
Templiers, this tower is the last vestige of a
larger chapel constructed by the Knights
Templar some eight hundred years ago.
Nowadays, it serves as a cultural space and
hosts many theatrical shows.
Although in ruins, the castle which
overlooks Hyères has not lost its majesty.
Gazing across the Provençal countryside,
and out towards the peninsula, it’s easy to
imagine how it looked in the 16th century.
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Hyères
Calanque du Maure - Hyeres and Toulon on the mainland in the background
Your Corner of Paradise on the Côte d'Azur
5 hectare site, with views of the Meditarranean and beautiful pine groves
Hyères has long attracted artists and writers,
including Victor Hugo and R.L. Stevenson,
and the 100-year-old this year Villa Noailles,
now open to the public, was a magnet for the
avant-garde artists of the early 20th century
from Jean Cocteau to Pablo Picasso.
paths for exhilarating bike rides under pure
blue skies. On the eastern side, the unspoilt
Badine beach offers the perfect conditions
for both thrilling water sports and relaxed
sunbathing as well as yoga on the beach.
The best of the south of
France on your doorstep
Apartments, villas
and hotel
Beachside bar and
restaurant
Watersports centre
Private beach and pool
Gastronomy
Being by the sea means that seafood
favourites like moules frîtes and bouillabaisse
are popular on menus and there are many
great restaurants in and around the old town
and the Port d’Hyères. Afternoons whiled
away here, with a glass of perfectly chilled
wine in the sun, is true Riviera living.
There are lively weekly markets at both
Hyères and on the Giens Peninsula where
you can find the very best of Provence’s fruit
and vegetables, cheeses and plenty of baked
goods too.
The Presqu’île
The Presqu’île – a much more romantic way
to say peninsula – stretches its reach into
the deep blue Mediterranean and is home to
several seaside resorts and wild flamingos.
To the west, marvel at kite surfers floating
their colourful kites along the 4km long
Plage d’Almanarre. And, on especially clear
days, you can see the harbours at Toulon
and Carqueiranne. The saltmarshes, with
their famous flamingos, provide the perfect
The island of Porquerolles
At the tip of the Presqu’íle is Tour Fondue, a
small port named after its 16th century fort.
From here ferries leave daily to the islands
off the coast of Hyères. The most famous of
them is Porquerolles – often compared to
the Caribbean due to its relaxed atmosphere
and clear blue waters. Since cars aren’t
allowed here, the best way to see the island
is by bike – you’ll find plenty of bike hire
companies along the harbour.
Although there are restaurants, bars and
a hotel on the island, the Plage de Notre
Dame is best enjoyed with a hearty picnic of
fresh baguette, sundried tomatoes and the
cheese you bought from the morning market
– and a glass of local rosé.
Get there: Flights operate from Gatwick to
Toulon (20 minutes by car), from June
to September
Stay at: Domaine de la Mer, offers hotel
rooms, apartments, villas and cottages on
the edge of the beach, a little corner of
Paradise: domainedelamer.com
At the Domaine, the environment is at
the heart of everything we do
Talented kitchen team which
specially selects fresh, local produce.
Organic cleaning products which are
good for the evironment and our
guests.
Bedding made from 100% recycled
material, 28% of which from the sea.
To find out more and book for the summer:
+33 4945 82101 - contact@domainedelamer.com
Stay up to date...
FOR AUTUMN 2023
Le Domaine des Artistes:
Enjoy seminars from a range
of writers, academics and
philosophers on a variety of
interesting topics every
weekend, culminating in our
first Ideqs Festival in June
2024.
Activities for all the family
Watersports centre Le Domaine de la Glisse
offering classes in paddleboarding,
kayaking, kitesurfing and more!
Entertainment every night of the summer at
our famous beachside restaurant.
Badminton and volleyball court, bike rental,
classes in yoga, HIIT, boxing and pilates.
NEW - NEW - NEW - NEW - NEW - NEW - NEW - NEW -
70 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 71

Jeremy Flint explores the extraordinary Mont-Saint-Michel and uncovers the secret
parts and the must-sees plus what to see and do in the area.
Mont-Saint-Michel,
Normandy
Mont-Saint-Michel is a remarkable tidal
island located in the Manche department,
Normandy. Sitting just off the impressive
coastline between Normandy and Brittany,
this is one of France’s most impressive
sights. The mount’s spectacular Abbey is the
crowning glory, perched atop a rocky outcrop
in the heart of the bay which provides breathtaking
views from all around.
One of the most popular attractions in the
country, second only to the Eiffel Tower, both
the abbey and the bay have held UNESCO
World Heritage status since 1979. The iconic
sanctuary has been attracting pilgrims for
centuries, with vast numbers drawn to the
scenic splendour, beautiful buildings and the
glory of Saint Michael. For centuries, devotees
would risk crossing the bay with strong tides
and precarious quicksands to reach this
spiritual place. Even today, a stream of around
3 million visitors and pilgrims flock each year
to the island and its spectacular bay.
Whether you arrive on foot, by bike or by bus
along the permanent path that connects the
island to the mainland, there are a wealth of
things to explore from the authentic, medieval
streets to the historic ramparts, the Abbey,
and its cloisters.
You can’t help but be wowed by the
fortified walls and towers of this worldfamous
landmark that rises up to the
clustered buildings of the village. Pass the
drawbridge and enjoy a stroll through the
Grande Rue (main street) lined with fine
hotels, restaurants and shops. Sample the
local cuisine at La Mère Poulard (Mother
Poulard), which serves omelettes cooked on
an open-wood fire, a gastronomic emblem.
Developed by Annette Boutiaut Poulard
in the 19th century, they are described as
‘the most famous omelettes in the world’
and have been enjoyed by many renowned
visitors including Ernest Hemingway, Winston
Churchill and even Marilyn Monroe. The
Drawbridge
Auberge de la Mère Poulard is also a great
place to stay on the island.
Visit the village museums that resurrect the
history of the site, and explore the hidden
walkways round the ramparts for excellent
panoramic views. Stop by the 15th and 16th
century parish church of St Peter, a place of
devotion to the Archangel Michael for pilgrims
arriving at the mount. Don’t miss the statue
of Saint Michael slaying the dragon inside the
side chapel. The church provides the perfect
oasis to pause and take a break from the
hustle and bustle of the Grand Rue before
climbing the steep, lung-busting stairways to
the Abbey.
72 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 73

The Grand Degré, a narrow staircase of 350
steps leads you to the Abbey entrance. Here
you can experience the splendour of the abbey
and explore the labyrinth of buildings linked by
suspended passageways over three floors.
Inside the magnificent Gothic-style
Benedictine Abbey, the imposing 11th century
nave is an impressive sight with its grand
arches, galleries and tall windows. Services
are still held here daily (except Mondays) and
there are weekend masses.
The west terrace offers a unique view of the
spire of the church tower mounted with a gravitydefying,
gilded copper statue of Saint Michael
and views of the Breton town of Cancale to the
west, the cliffs of Normandy to the east and the
archipelago of the Chausey Isles (where granite
was sourced to build the abbey) out to sea. Here,
you can also appreciate the small monastic
and village gardens from above.
The walkway continues around a courtyard
through the cloisters, small columns create
constantly changing views before arriving in
the refectory, and it’s here that monks once
ate their meals in reverent silence. Finally, you
can descend to the underground crypts and
their magnificent stone pillars supporting the
weight of the church and acknowledge this
true architectural marvel.
Tombelaine Islet
Cloisters
Back at the base of the mount, you can walk
in the bay up to the Islet of Tombelaine on
a guided tour and discover the quicksands
and bird life – the islet is a bird reserve and
Statue st Micheal
protected breeding ground for gulls and
passerines. Alternatively, take a hike along the
coastline for the most beautiful views of Mont-
Saint-Michel.
Dine at: Restaurant La Ferme St Michel
Sample salt marsh lamb and whelk specialities
served in the airy, stone-walled farmhouse,
Route du Mont-Saint-Michel, La Caserne.
When to visit
June to August is one of the best times to visit
with the warmest temperatures in Normandy
and pleasant weather but be aware that these
are also the busiest months and Mont-Saint-
Michel can be very crowded. Another great
time to visit is during Spring with the largest
tides in Europe surrounding the Mont and you
can witness an extraordinary sight as the Mont
becomes an island, enveloped by the ocean.
What to see and do nearby:
Avranches
Extend your visit and discover the other
delights of the bay and surroundings. In nearby
Avranches, there is a Scriptorial museum
which guards and preserves the Abbey’s
ancient manuscripts which were found in the
Abbey treasury. Take some additional time to
see Avranches’ amazing architecture including
charming churches, the old castle and the
majestic town hall.
Dine at: La Toque Aux Vins, a newly
refurbished bistro and bar that the locals
love for the relaxed ambience and exquisite
cuisine, 8 Rue de la Mairie.
Stay at: La Croix d’Or, a charming
hotel-restaurant (and former coaching
inn) in the centre of Avranches, 83 Rue
de la Constitution.
Moidrey Windmill and salt marsh sheep
One of the highlights of the peaceful
landscapes around the bay is the Moulin de
Moidrey, a stunning Norman windmill, located
within 5 kilometres of Mont Saint Michel. Also,
inland from Mont Saint Michel you can see
sheep graze on the salt marshes at low tide
and enjoy this distinctive agricultural practice.
Dine at: the nearby Le Grillon in Pontorson
with tasty pancakes and an awesome grill, 37
Rue Couesnon.
74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

Saint Malo @NickHallFineArt
Cancale
West of Mont Saint Michel, the headland
offers a picturesque coastline dotted with
oyster farms and wonderful views where La
Pointe du Grouin provides one of the best
outlooks to sea and further west towards Saint
Malo. Visit the Ferme Marine oyster farm to
learn about the history and heritage of oyster
farming and sample these fantastic delights of
the ocean.
Saint-Malo
The beautiful town of Saint-Malo and its natural
harbour are a wonderful place to explore where
the ramparts rise proudly above the beaches
and port making it a unique sight. Unearth
Saint-Malo’s beauty and charm with a walk
along the historic walls, visit the Chateau and
marvel at the old city views from the lookout
towers, then see the wonders of the sea at the
aquarium before refuelling at a creperie.
Visit a farm
Finally, with farming being such an important
way of life in the region, seize the opportunity
to visit one of the local farms and enjoy their
local products. Cara-Meuh farm in Vains is
an organic, third generation farm in the bay
of Mont Saint Michel that produce delicious
products including cheese, cream, butter,
milk, eggs, honey, pork, beef and their famous
artisanal caramels (made from their very own
milk and butter) with different flavours from
salted butter to chocolate and apple, a local
delicacy of the region. Tour the farm and
treat yourself to their goods in the farm shop,
besides other local produce.
INFO
For more information about visiting Mont
Saint Michel and the bay (including parking
and entry tickets to the Abbey), times of
services in the abbey, and to find out about
hotels on the island (which is how Jeremy got
to see it like this – empty of visitors!) visit
ot-montsaintmichel.com
2023 is a special year that marks the
millennium since the Romanesque
abbey’s construction in 1023. The Mont
will celebrate 1000 years of history and
creation with activities and exhibitions
between May and November including a
summer solstice light show.
Listen to the most beautiful
French songs on your mobile,
Smart TV, Radioline, TuneIn etc.
parischanson.fr
FRENCH IMMERSION PROGRAMS
• Homestay at your certified private tutor’s residence
• Learn French & discover culture in the most beautiful places in France
PLUS ONLINE LESSONS
Tailor-made courses, guided conversations, French life
slimmersion-france.com
76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

PIERREFONDS
Never underestimate the power of the imagination. Gillian Thornton enjoys the
medieval fantasy that is Château de Pierrefonds.
Walking steadily up through the grounds of
Château de Pierrefonds, I half expect to
see Cinderella come running down the path
towards me. Or maybe Rapunzel letting her
hair down from one of the gleaming white
towers. Even a fire-breathing dragon wouldn’t
surprise me, though I’d certainly hope he was
friendly. Because here at the Château de
Pierrefonds, anything seems possible.
The small town of Pierrefonds nestles in the
far south of the Hauts de France region in the
department of Oise. There has been a fortress
on the hill here since the 11th century, but in
1393, Louis of Orléans, younger brother of
Charles VI was created Count of Valois. And,
in a stirring story of family power play, Louis
promptly ordered the construction of three
new castles, including a rebuild at Pierrefonds.
Using state of the art medieval design and
technology, The Count commissioned an
impenetrable fortress, designed to repel his
cousin Jean sans Peur, Duke of Burgundy, as
they fought for the French crown. But in 1407,
Louis’s takeover plans came crashing down
when he was assassinated by the devious Duke.
The Count’s lavishly decorated castle
remained empty until the early 17th century
when enemies of Louis XIII took refuge
behind its seemingly impenetrable walls. Bad
decision. Artillery weapons had moved on
and Pierrefonds was no longer impenetrable.
Captured by the king’s troops, it was
subsequently dismantled, a threat to royal
supremacy no more.
So how am I now able to walk beneath
magnificent round towers with ornate
medieval turrets, through an impressive
gateway, and into an ornate inner courtyard to
the foot of a magnificent staircase? For that,
we have to thank not kings, but emperors.
Fast forward to the 19th century and the age
of Romanticism when artists arrived to paint
the ruined walls at Pierrefonds and writers
dreamed amongst its old stones. In 1811,
Napoleon I bought the crumbling castle, but
it was his nephew, Napoleon III, who was to
breathe new life into Pierrefonds.
The Emperor already owned a grand imperial
palace across the forest at Compiegne where
he held lavish receptions designed to impress,
but he wanted a private residence too where his
close family could stay. The ruins at Pierrefonds
– barely ten miles from Compiègne – offered
enormous possibilities in the right hands.
78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79

Pierrefonds chapel
Pierrefonds interior
Enter Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, the must-have
architect of the age, who was passionate
about the medieval period and had travelled
widely in Italy and France with his friend
Prosper Mérimée, then inspector of historic
monuments. Mérimée entrusted his travel
companion with the restoration of important
religious and civic buildings including the
Cathedral of Notre-Dame in Paris, Mont
Saint-Michel in Normandy, and the walled city
of Carcassonne. Pierrefonds was to be his last,
and arguably most imaginative project.
Viollet-le-Duc began work at Pierrefonds
in 1857, but to modern standards, his idea
of restoration is somewhat controversial.
‘Restoring a building is not maintaining,
repairing or redoing it,’ he declared. ‘It’s
restoring it to a complete state that may never
have existed at a given time.’ In the process,
he wasn’t beyond removing original features.
So rather than an authentic medieval rebuild,
the Château de Pierrefonds we see today is
Viollet-le-Duc’s idea of how he felt a castle
from the Middle Ages should look. Fanciful
it may be, but his work had a hugely positive
influence on public interest in historic
monuments, and his illustrated books on
architecture would be used by generations of
architects to come.
So as I walk up through the park on a sunny
summer day beneath eight soaring white
towers, I’m not surprised to see a carved figure
adorning each one. Not medieval knights
though, but famous warrior kings from across
the centuries including David and Joshua,
Caesar, Alexander the Great, and King Arthur.
Step into the inner courtyard and the style
changes again. I’m no architect but I do
know a Renaissance window when I see one,
although I’ve never seen rooftops embellished
with stone cats before, a nod to Viollet-le-
Duc’s own cat who kept him company while
he worked. If you have young ones with you,
download the children’s activity booklet and
complete the puzzles with Théobald the cat as
your guide.
Whichever way I turn, I spot another
eye-catching feature. Three giant stone
salamanders with gaping mouths embellish
blank walls, whilst an equestrian statue
of Louis I of Orléans stands by the grand
staircase that leads to the main entrance.
Inside there are more surprises. The castle’s
permanent exhibition presents decorative
pieces from the Monduit workshops, famous
for their sheet metal work, which features
here at Pierrefonds. And on the chapel
gate, Viollet-le-Duc is depicted in pilgrim’s
clothing, accompanied by Louis of Orléans
and his wife Valentine Visconti of Milan.
In medieval times, the castle keep would
have contained the apartments of the
ruling family, the last retreat in the event
of a siege. At Pierrefonds, you can expect
lavish decoration around the walls ranging
from carved animals and plants to symbols
of the Empire. And as the last word in 19th
century home comforts, you’ll even find
flushing toilets.
The castle cellars date back to the 14th
century but the vaults were rebuilt in the 19th
century and it is here that I find Le Bal des
Gisants, one of the most unexpected exhibits
at Pierrefonds. A gisant is a recumbent statue
usually found on tombs and this collection
of replicas was commissioned by King
Louis Philippe to pay tribute to an eclectic
collection of figures who had brought glory to
France across the centuries, including Louis
d’Orléans, builder of Pierrefonds. Originally
kept at Versailles, the gisants are now kept
here, atmospherically displayed beneath
moving coloured lights against a soundtrack of
whispered poems
Viollet-le-Duc’s fanciful interpretation of the
Middle Ages may not please visitors who come
to Pierrefonds hoping for a true-life medieval
experience, but I loved it. Not authentic for
sure, but quirky, imaginative and beautiful
in its own unique way. Pierrefonds was one
of several European castles that inspired
Walt Disney for classic tales such as Sleeping
80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81

Beauty, Cinderella and Snow White, and it
has been used as a film set for many movie
directors since.
Last stop for visitors is the model castle,
made in stone for the Exposition Universelle
in Paris in 1878 and weighing 4500 kg.
Created under the guidance of Lucjan
Wyganowski, inspector of the castle works,
it was designed to show the public the scale
and importance of the reconstruction works.
Nearly 150 years later, it still has the power
to amaze.
Begun in 1857, Viollet-le-Duc’s fantasy
castle took more than 20 years to complete
and was unfinished at the time of his
death in 1879. But the work was carried
out according to the master’s plans by his
son-in-law, artist Maurice Ouradou. Finally
completed in 1884, this fairy tale castle
never became an Imperial residence but
opened to the public in 1867, a stunning
museum of medieval architecture with just a
few more contemporary extras!
Bal des Gisants
Château de Pierrefonds is open daily,
apart from 1 January, 1 May and 25
December. For opening hours, see
chateau-pierrefonds.fr
For information on local walking trails,
heritage visits and remembrance
sites, visit destination-pierrefonds.fr
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82 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 83

As a colour enthusiast, I well remember my
first months in the Bearn, walking around local
villages with my head constantly cranking
upwards, then forwards, then up again as I
collected photos of shutters and doors in their
hundreds. I saw shutters in my sleep; subtle
shades of blue so close to one another…
yet just different enough to make me revisit
those houses again and again. What was
it that made them so special, I wondered;
there couldn’t have been that many shades
available fifty or sixty years ago when they
were painted. And then I realised: this was
the baked-in patina. I began to notice that
the blue-painted shutters and doors on southfacing
sides of the buildings were slightly
more sun-faded compared with their northfacing
cousins; these were more weatherbeaten
in appearance, after decades of
being battered by storms blown inland from
the Atlantic. Some paint colours were so
old – and flaking away badly – that only a
single precious chip remained, clinging to the
timber. It was at this stage that I decided to
start collecting samples and convert each one
Orthez
How to find
the perfect
French blue
Sara Silm, photographer, stylist and author of How to French Country, lives in a
Béarnaise village at the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, from where she shares
her love of the many shades of French blues and greens
84 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 85

into an international paint code that could be
authentically reproduced to create an exact
version of the original.
Like any collector, I wanted to keep a record,
an archive, safely stored away. But I also did it
because there’s one question I’m always asked
by people who’ve visited France and left with a
burning desire to bring a little bit of it back to
their home: ‘How do I find the perfect French
blue?’ (Followed by: ‘where would I find that
beautiful green door colour?’…)
There are certainly plenty of commercial
colours that fulfil this brief to perfection,
and I’ve arranged a series of colour choices
for you. But what you can’t find in a paint
catalogue are the paint codes I’ve created
myself. I’ve collected these colours in the
same way a mad botanist walks the fields and
mountains collecting plants and seeds. Some
of them will never be seen again, because
their years of patina will have disintegrated
into tiny fragments by the time you read this…
The colours have been categorised into the
towns in which they were found and paired
with their National Colour System (NCS) to
create a kind of colour by numbers, if you will.
So, if you see a colour that would be perfect
for you, simply take the code to a paint-supply
store with the facilities for mixing international
paint colours and, with the shake of a tin, it will
be yours.
CHAMPAGNE HOUSE
https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
Just one example of many colour charts in the book
How to French Country: Colour and
design inspiration from south-west
France - the ultimate guide to surrounding
yourself with French country style,
wherever you are. From deep in the
countryside of southwest France comes
a comprehensive guide to surrounding
yourself with French country style
wherever you are. Capturing the beauty
and tranquility of the region, interior
designer and journalist Sara Silm distills
the unique colours, textures, and flavours
of this distinctive corner of the world.
Available from Amazon and all good book
stores (Published by Thames & Hudson).
A Unique, Champagne Themed
19th century Townhouse in the centre of
historic Condom, Gers, Southwest France.
Offering a Luxury Boutique B&B,
• full house rental
• writing and mobile photography retreats
• upmarket Hen do’s/girly getaways.
All with a welcome glass of bubbly.
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86 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 87

Your Photos
Rue Galande Paris,
by Dawne Polis
In the 5th
arrondissement
(district) of Paris, a
stone’s throw from
the great Cathedral
of Notre Dame is a
rather secret part of
the city nicknamed the
Latin Quarter or the
Sorbonne district…
Find out more: Secret
Paris – the Sorbonne
district
Every weekend we invite you to share
your photos on Facebook and Twitter –
it’s a great way for everyone to “see”
real France and be inspired by real
travellers snapping pics as they go.
Every week there are utterly gorgeous
photos being shared, and here we
showcase just a few of the most
popular. Share your favourite photos
with us and the most ‘liked’ will appear
in the next issue of The Good Life
France Magazine
Lavender field in Vaucluse, Provence by
Elmar Pogrzeba
Discover the most picturesque lavender spots in
Provence: Lavender fields photo guide
Join us on Facebook and
Twitter to like and share
your favourite photos of
France...
Claude Monet’s Garden, Giverny,
Normandy by Anne Bruner
Find out more about Monet’s garden
and take a free virtual tour (link in post):
Monet’s Garden, Normandy
88 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 89

What’s
NEWSummer 2023
Major Anniversaries
50th year of the Marc Chagall National
Museum in Nice, inaugurated by the artist in
1973. Dedicated exhibitions from 28 January
2023 to 8 January 2024.
60 years of the Matisse National Museum in
Nice, temporary exhibitions plus concerts and
heritage tours throughout 2023.
Celebrating France’s National Parks: Happy
50th to Écrins National Park (1973) and 60th
anniversary of the world’s first marine park
was created (1963), in Hyères, Port-Cros
National Park .
Son et Lumières show at the Abbaye de
Valloires, Somme. French screenwriter,
director and artistic director Bruno Seillier
has designed a magical journey in the
gorgeous gardens and ancient corridors of
the abbey, retracing 900 years of history at
the Cistercian Abbey. You’ll feel as if you’ve
stepped straight into a fairy tale.
What’s on
Calvi on the Rocks, Corsica 3 June-3 July.
Visual arts, electronic music and the Corsican
art of living form an artistic course through the
city, the beaches and the citadel of Calvi.
Abbey Valloires
Moving to France
There’s loads going on throughout France this summer – here’s our pick of some of
the best events this season…
Plus here’s our handpicked choice of the best tours and places to stay: Best of France 2023
Across France
Fête de la Musique: 21 June 2023, France’s
national music day features everything from
street parties to major concerts - pop to rock,
jazz to classical and everything in between.
July 14: a national holiday in France,
commemorates the French Revolution of 1789.
Festivities begin the night before with firemen’s
balls held in fire stations and continue into the
next day with military parades on the Champs
Elysées, plus fireworks displays.
Tour de France: 1 – 23 July 2023 The world’s
most famous cycling competition takes in
stunning French landscapes including this
year - Bordeaux, Burgundy, Bayonne and
Beaujolais, as well nail-biting sections of the
French Alps before ending as always in Paris.
Financial Planning for Expats
Planning a U.S. Return
Financial planning services
for US expats in France,
wherever you are on your
international journey…
sanderlingexpat.com
90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91

Fête du Cognac, Cognac/Nouvelle Aquitaine – 27-29 July, 2023. Takes place along the
banks of the River Charentes and features concerts and local gastronomy, including of course
the famed drink of the same name. Details: lafeteducognac.fr
Festival d'Avignon © A Hocquel, Vaucluse Tourism
Festival d’Avignon, Avignon, Provence – 5-25 July, 2023. France’s most important theatre
festival has a backdrop of the majestic Palais des Papes, the largest medieval gothic palace
in the world. The event takes over the entire town with fabulous performances in the historic
streets. Details: festival-avignon
Cite des Climats de Bourgogne: A network
of cultural and tourist venues dedicated to
Burgundy wines opens to the public in mid-
June. Known as the Cité des Climats and
Bourgogne wines they are based in three key
Burgundy wine producing areas: Chablis,
Beaune and Mâcon. Discover the history and
culture of Burgundy wines and take a tasting.
Details: citeclimatsvins-bourgogne.com
CroisiEurope launches new cruise through
the captivating Oise Valley: Europe’s largest
river cruise operator, CroisiEurope, has
launched a brand-new 6-night, hotel barge
cruise through France’s beautiful Oise Valley.
Starting and ending in Paris, highlights include
Château de Malmaison, bought by Napoleon
Bonaparte for his wife Josephine, plus the
Chateau de Chantilly, and a masterclass
Macon Climats
by a member of
the Confrérie des
Chevaliers Fouetteurs
to learn how to
make perfect crème
Chantilly. It also
takes in the Pissaro
Museum in Pontoise,
follows in the footsteps
of Van Gogh at the
Musée de l’Absinthe in
Chantilly
Auvers-sur-Oise, and
the Armistice Memorial in Compiègne. Fully
inclusive with gastronomic meals and great
wines, bikes and jacuzzi.
Details: croisieurope.co.uk
Coming up
Rugby World Cup
France hosts the Rugby World Cup in 2023.
7 glorious weeks of sports: 48 matches, 660
players, 20 teams from 5 continents, and 45
days of rugby – and festivities. A whopping
450,000 fans are expected to visit France
and millions will watch the games on television
all around the world.
The matches take place in 9 host cities
each with their own unique character and
charm: Bordeaux, Lens, Lille, Lyon, Marseille,
Nantes, Nice, Paris, St Denis, Saint-Étienne
and Toulouse.
The Olympic Games are coming!
Around fifty official Games Preparation
Centres are gearing up to welcome athletes
prepping for the 2024 Olympic Games, with
an Olympic sailing test event scheduled in the
Bay of Marseille in early July. In September,
skippers will be training for the 2024
America’s Cup off the coast of Saint-Tropez.
Meanwhile, Nice – the traditional venue for
the Ironman France triathlon challenge every
June – will be hosting the final of the men’s
Ironman World Championship in September
for the first time in 40 years.
92 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 93

One thing you learn very quickly when you move to France is that you don’t really
have a choice about the order in which you do things. That’s because you often need
to complete one step in order to move on to the next step.
Planning to live and
work in France?
Janine Marsh, shares some top tips…
Whether you decide to buy or to rent, it usually
means you’ll need a French bank account.
That means you need to have an address
– it can get complicated if you’ve sold your
property to move to France but don’t have
a permanent address yet. In order to have a
French resident’s address, you need a visa
(unless you live in a country that’s a member
of the European Union). The visa entitles you
to live in France which in turn enables you to
apply for medical care.
You may want to work in France, and that
means you need to register to pay tax and
social contributions.
And yes, at times it can all feel a bit
overwhelming, time-consuming and
occasionally frustrating – but nothing
ventured, nothing gained as the saying goes.
Of course, if you don’t fancy dealing with all
the paperwork yourself to become French
resident and all that goes with it, there are
companies that will help you and take the pain
away. I got help with my move because I was
working such long hours, I didn’t have time to
deal with paperwork, answering questions by
phone (I had to be interviewed at one point
by one of the government bodies), registering
on multiple systems, setting up to pay tax etc.
For me it was worth every penny to get help.
6 months from start to finish I had everything
sorted including the Carte Vitale (access to
the excellent health care service), being set up
to work as a micro entrepreneur (freelance)
and pay tax, plus sort out my Carte de Sejour,
residency permit.
Visas
There are 17 different types of visas for France
because one size does not fit all. Retirement
visa, student visa, working visa etc. – there’s
a different one to suit several situations, and
there are strict criteria to suit the visa you
94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

want. Check on the French Government
website to see which suits you best. It depends
on where you live as to how long it takes to
sort out a visa, but allow at least 2-3 months:
france-visas.gouv.fr
Once you’re in France, in order to stay
permanently, you’ll need to apply for a Carte
de Sejour. Read more about applying for visas
and completing this process in detail here.
Healthcare
If you’re employed by a French company
– you should get access to healthcare
straightaway. If not, whether you’re retired or
working for yourself, you’ll need to be resident
in France for at least three months before you
can apply.
Vitale (healthcare), driving licence etc. Have
the originals and, importantly, copies of these
documents to hand. The chances are that
you’ll need to send documents multiple times.
And some authorities may require you to
organise authorised translations. At the very
least, here’s what you’re likely to need.
• Birth certificate
• Marriage certificate
• Driving licence
• Diplomas if thinking of setting up
a business
• Proof of purchase of home in France/proof
of residency
• Bank statements for last 12 months
Working in France
Some people retire, some people continue
to work for the same company they did
back home – but from France. Fast internet
for home working is available in much of
France (but if you do rely on this, check the
area you’re buying in first – some places
still have slow Broadband. If you want to
earn an income in France then one of the
most popular ways is to go freelance, and
registering as a microentrepreneur is one of
the most popular ways to do that. Basically
it means you are the founder of a micro
business, generally a small company with
minimal investment. You’re restricted as
to how much your business may turnover
before needing to register as something else
other than micro entrepreneur (currently it is
between €77,700 and €188,700 per year,
depending on what type of business it is).
And certain types of business are excluded
from becoming microentrepreneurs, for
instance some finance companies, health
professionals and accountants.
fabulously easy.
Insurance services for English speakers in France
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who’s also a French native
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and more
We work with more than 30 insurers and many more providers so we are
always able to find the best and most affordable solution for your situation.
We’ve got you covered.
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You will need paperwork to apply for just
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The benefits of setting up as micro
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96 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 97

Becoming a
micro entrepreneur
We chat to micro entrepreneur Sophie
Green, who is based in the Dordogne.
Sophie works for Leggett Immobilier
International as a sales agent in
Dordogne as well as in neighbouring
department Haute-Vienne.
How did you come to be
living in France?
I lived in Northamptonshire in the UK, trained
as a Legal Executive and as a Financial
Advisor and Mortgage Advisor working
within Solicitor practices. When I became
pregnant with our first son Louis in 2008,
my husband had an idea to open a sandwich
shop in our village so instead of going back
to work fulltime for someone else, I could
be my own boss. I have to say, I have never
worked so hard in my life. Then three years
later I became pregnant with our second son,
Freddie, and the thought of getting up at 5am
to butter sandwiches lost its allure!
We bought a caravan and decided to go on
holiday to France. We fell in love with France
from the minute we got here and immediately
started house hunting. Just before this, my
lovely mum had passed away. She had lived
in the same village as us and life didn’t feel
the same without her. We didn’t know exactly
where we wanted to live and spent holidays
travelling around Brittany and Dordogne.
When we stayed in a very small rural campsite
in Dordogne, we both knew this was it, our
dream area. We found our house and moved
to France in July 2013. My eldest was just
about to start school in the UK so it was
perfect timing for a move. He went straight
into the local school in our village.
How did you become a
micro entrepreneur in
France
I was too young to retire, and I wanted a
new challenge. In addition to our house,
we bought some lakes nearby, run as
GoGreen Holidays, and I looked after
the rental of the onsite cabin and gypsy
caravan. But I needed more from a job, I
wanted to learn more French, to get out
and meet people and explore the area.
I have a love for property, and I love
looking around houses. Working as an
agent for Leggett Immobillier seemed a
perfect fit.
Leggett offered everything I needed and
was flexible, so I could work around looking
after the lakes and the children – by then
we had another child, Francesca.
What’s it like working
as an agent for Leggett
Immobillier in France?
Leggett have exceeded my expectations. I
joined them in 2018, after meeting with an
Area Coordinator and chatting through the
role which helped me to decide whether
it was right for me. I completed a training
course at Head Office which is in Dordogne.
I really like that you get the benefits of
working for a family-run business so you’re
not just another number, but it’s also an
award-winning, big international company
so there’s a massive multi-lingual support
network available to all agents.
There’s a fantastic Sales Support Team who
help organise all my visits, the Marketing
Team do a great job promoting all the
properties I list for sale, and the IT team have
developed a fantastic back-office system to
make life easier to manage the admin. There
is also a terrific Legal and Contracts team to
help with all the admin requirements and we
are regularly updated with changes in laws.
We have access to a lot of online training
which is great and saves time with not having
to travel. Plus, we’re assigned admin support,
my fabulous assistant Zoe who is a fountain of
knowledge, works in the Contracts Team and
does all my compromis de vente work (sales
documentation), and helps me manage all
my sales.
As an agent, it’s essential to be organised
and flexible. You need to be able to manage
not only your own time but also that of your
vendor’s and clients.
What’s it like being selfemployed?
I run everything as a stand-alone business. I
set up as a micro entrepreneur and it is quite
a simple regime. I pay cotistations (French
National Insurance) monthly, based on what
98 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 99

ecoming a Leggett Agent so that he can help
with viewings when I get really busy.
Jessica Viel - Loire Valley
There’s also scope for career progression in
this job, in fact I have become a Coach and
have my own small team now. I love helping
new agents and supporting them in running
their own successful small business in France.
Helena Hermanns - Paris/Île-de-France
I never thought of doing this job when I first
came to France, but it’s changed my life, I
earn a good income, I love what I do, I can
manage how much I want to do, it’s flexible
and there is potential to go further in the role
if I want to.
Andrea Bevan - Alpes
Start a
new career
as an
independent
sales agent
Elske Koelstra - PACA
Andrew Guck - Occitanie
Scan for more information
I have earned, and I pay tax in one go at the
end of the financial year.
Because it’s a simple way to set up a business
I get to spend more time on what I love
doing – going out and finding new properties,
exploring them and seeing what is hidden
behind the front door! I also love meeting new
people and getting out and about in the area.
Deborah Cherry - Nouvelle-Aquitaine
Daniela & Dickjan Poppema -
Provence
Declan McCann - Brittany
It’s been a really successful business for me
and in fact my husband is just in the process of
Leggett Immobillier are recruiting agents in all areas – if you’re interested,
find out more and contact them at.
Recruitment@leggett.fr
05.53.60.82.77
QR Code “Request a Recruitment Brochure”
Join our team in France and become part of a
company unique in it’s field!
If you would like the freedom to grow a successful business supported
by an award winning team, please contact our recruitment department:
www.leggettfrance.com
+33 (0)5 53 60 82 77 recruitment@leggett.fr
100 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 101

Narbonne
SPOTLIGHT
on living in
Languedoc Roussillon
Some call Languedoc Roussillon the true
South of France – especially those lucky
enough to live there! Edged by the sea,
Languedoc Roussillon always seems bathed in
glorious sunshine. Its coastline stretches from
very edge of Provence to the Spanish border
and Catalonia – some 220kms.
Languedoc’s name derives from the ancient
romance language which once dominated this
area. It’s still spoken, to greater or lesser extent,
in southern France, northern Spain, Monaco
and even parts of Italy. In this medieval
language the customary word for yes was ‘oc’
and it became known as langue d’oc. Langue
d’oc split into increasingly distinct dialects -
from Gascon to Catalan, and Provençal.
Languedoc Roussillon stretches all around
France's most eastern seaboard with the
Mediterranean and now forms part of the
larger administrative district of Occitanie.
In some ways it almost appears to be an
amphitheatre for this part of the Western
Mediterranean with its terraced vineyards.
Around one third of all French wine is
produced in this sunny region. Reds tend to
be full-bodied and fruit driven, then there's
the 'black' wine of Cahors, Côtes de Nîmes,
unoaked white wines, and the palest pink rosé.
There's Cremant de Limoux – supposedly
older than Champagne – and unctuous sweet
wines from Muscat to Maury – the latter is
reputed to last up to 100 years.
And then there's the food... They say
Languedoc Rousillon sits between the olive
groves of Provence and the Landes of
Gascony – you could say between garlic
and foie gras – and they use the best of
these ingredients in their dishes. The coast
102 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 103

Montpellier
Pezenas
National Park Cevennes © Fred Tassart
is always close by so of course this means
fish and oysters, mussels, scallops and clams
to be eaten with garlic shallots and parsley.
The traditional Bourride of Sète is made
from the bony anglerfish – closely related
to bouillabaise from Provence with broth
strained at the end of cooking before being
thickened with delicious aioli. Brandade de
Nîmes is well known in France, salt cod with
a mixture of oil and milk and it tastes much
better than it sounds! As soon as you head
southwards towards Montpellier food starts
to change – there are little pies – petit pâtes
of Pezénas and Beziérs made with mutton,
mutton fat, raisins, brown sugar. And then
there is Cassoulet with varying recipes – the
one from Toulouse includes goose or duck,
mutton, famed Toulouse sausages, haricots
and other delicious morsels. Then there are
pâtés of foie gras and walnut. Olive oil is used
in abundance, plus lots of game.
Spain is not far away and the strong Catalan
influence around the southernmost part of
Languedoc Roussillon is reflected in both the
wine and food. Banyuls, a delicious, fortified
wine, comes from around the beautiful port
of Collioure close to the border with Spain.
Around here many of the dishes are cooked
in the more robust Catalan style – including
anchovy pâtés or cod cooked in a spicy
mixture of aubergine, peppers and tomato.
This part of France has only been French since
the time of Cardinal Richelieu (chief Minister
of Louis XIII and of the Three Musketeers time)
so both the style of eating and living are a mix,
and some of the older people still speak the
local Catalan.
The northernmost reaches of Languedoc take
in the southern section of the Massif Central
– the Haut Languedoc and Cévennes national
park. These have traditionally been sparsely
populated areas with extensive forests, fast
flowing streams and have strong appeal for
the adventurous or those who wish to fish for
trout. Further south are Nîmes, with its Roman
remains, and Montpellier closer to the sea.
This area was less ‘well fought over’ than many
other parts of France, so villages were less
likely to have been built defensively. Many
still have half-timbered village houses which,
in summer when brilliant flowers fall lushly
from balconnières to adorn stone grey walls,
are very picturesque. Downstream from
the spectacular gorges the river Tarn flows
through beautiful pastoral landscapes en
route to Albi. Midi Pyrénées lies open like a
flat book between the Massif Central and the
Pyrénées mountain range. Also inland are
Carcassonne, Toulouse and the luscious rich
countryside of the Midi Pyrénées.
Inland Languedoc Rousillon is diverse and
beautiful, as is the Mediterranean coast. The
very first time I drove back from close to the
Spanish border with my daughter I was struck
by the sight of the white faced low mountain
ranges over the coastal plains – painted so
lovingly by Cézanne they had always seemed
to be drawn from the improbable imagination
of an Impressionist painter and yet here they
are for real. Vast fishing areas lie to the right
as you drive northwards. Oyster beds are
nurtured here in the salt water étangs – the
perfect place to stop for a seafood lunch.
Collioure is popular with overseas buyers,
as it was with Matisse. Not for nothing is this
Toulouse
104 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 105

Our latest properties for sale in Languedoc-Roussillon
chalet villa château farmhouse apartment vineyard gîte cottage coast country city
NImes
fishing port known as the jewel of the Côte
Vermeille. Moving further north, you cross the
end of the Canal du Midi near Marseillan to
arrive at Sète, the perfect place to watch the
sun set sitting beside one of its canals for a
splendid fish supper!
There’s so much choice when it comes to
where to live in Languedoc Roussillon and
of course local agents know all villages and
towns and can advise exactly what suits your
dream list. Some of my favourites include the
Catalan village of Fuilla from where it’s under
an hour to the ski slopes or sea. It’s southwest
of the ancient city of Prades, where Spanish
guitarist Segovia lived for many years.
Rieux en Val is an historical village between
Carcassonne and Lezignan, with a Roman
bridge famed for its appearance in the classic
‘60s film ‘Le Miracle des Loups’.
Pézenas is the most enchanting ancient town
famed for antique shops and markets, ideally
situated between the sea and hills of Haute
Collioure © Maree Lavin
Carcassonne © Michele Bond
Languedoc close to Cap d’Agde and with a
wonderful climate. Montpellier and Bèziers
with their airports are also close by.
The ancient town of St Hippolyte du Fort
boasts no less than 17 fountains and several
dozen sundials! Northwest of Nîmes on the
road to the Cevennes national park, it's
known for its ancient fort as well as an old
silk factory.
Carcassonne and the Roman city of
Narbonne, about 45 minutes’ drive to the
Mediterranean beaches and an hour and a
half’s easy drive to Spain.
With such a varied choice of towns and
villages, Occitanie might be the perfect
place to say ‘oc’ to a new life in the sun…
Joanna Leggett is marketing director at
Leggett Immobilier – you can view their full
portfolio of properties for sale in France at
www.leggettfrance.com
EXCLUSIVE
Pyrénées-Orientales €519,400
Ref: A20768 -Set of 2 houses with heated
swimming pool, set on 2,725m² of land.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: G Climate class: C
EXCLUSIVE
Full of Charm
Vibrant Village
Hérault €240,000
Ref: A20924 - Gorgeous 3-bedroom house
with 2 courtyards, in a sought-after village.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
EXCLUSIVE
Spruce Me Up !
Gard €92,950
Ref: A20977 - Lovely 1-bedroom house
to renovate in a charming village.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: E Climate class: B
EXCLUSIVE
Lock Up And Leave
Hérault €99,000
Ref: A16697 - Exceptional 2-bedroom
lock-up-and-leave holiday home.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: G Climate class: C
EXCLUSIVE
Business Opportunity
Pyrénées-Orientales €1,597,000
Ref: A20565 -14-bedroom gîte complex
with 3 pools, set on a large private plot.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
Aude €625,000
Ref: A21175 - Stunning 3-bedroom, 194m²
villa with garden and pool in calm location.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: B Climate class: A
EXCLUSIVE
Private Villa
Aude €285,000
Ref: A18633 - 3-bedroom villa with pool
and 2,000m² garden, in a quiet location.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: D Climate class: B
EXCLUSIVE
Gorgeous Garden
Hérault €235,000
Ref: A20507 - Beautifully designed 2-
bedroom villa with landscaped garden.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: C Climate class: A
Pyrénées-Orientales €416,000
Ref: A20600 - Lovely property with a
2-bedroom house and 2 studio apartments.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
Energy class: C Climate class: A
Start your property search today!
+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 · leggettfrance.com · info@leggett.fr
Information on the risks to which these properties are exposed is available on the Geohazards website:
www.georisques .gouv.fr
106 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 107

MAYENNE
Mayenne in the Pays de la Loire is a
landlocked department with three districts:
Château-Gontier, Mayenne, and Laval. It’s
a tranquil land of rivers and forests, small
villages and historic towns, and it’s a place
where the property prices, and a laid-back
way of life, are seriously tempting.
With a population of around 300,000,
Mayenne is uncrowded. The department is
named after the 121-mile-long River Mayenne,
which, long abandoned by commercial traffic
is now a popular cruising waterway and flows
to Angers in neighbouring Maine-et-Loire, at
the edge of the Loire Valley.
The department takes a pinch of influence
from its neighbours the Loire Valley,
Normandy and Brittany and then it adds a
little je ne sais quoi of its own. For instance,
it has its own microclimate which means it’s
warmer than Normandy. Like the Loire Valley,
it’s lush and green and has fabulous vineyards
and loads of Chateaux. And like Brittany,
the local produce is delicious with the main
industry of Mayenne being agricultural.
Transport links for Mayenne are excellent.
The fast TGV train links Laval to Paris in little
over an hour, nearby Rennes airport has flights
to several cities in the UK as well as Europe.
Calais is 4.5 hours away by road and it’s a
2.5-hour drive to Dieppe for the ferry service
to Newhaven. Trains to Paris from Laval take
from 1 hour and 44 minutes, and it’s just an
hour to Le Mans by car.
There are numerous cycle routes including
the Velo Francette which runs through
Mayenne’s glorious countryside and stretches
from Ouistreham in Brittany to La Rochelle in
Charente-Maritime. The Mayenne Valley is a
network of hiking, walking and cycling paths,
crossed by lakes and tributaries.
Mayenne has flattish arable land in the south
and more rolling hills to the north. There are
thriving towns, and the department has a rich
history and plenty of cultural treasures such as
the magnificent grottoes at Saulges with cave
paintings from pre-history, the 2000-yearold
Roman capital of Jublains, as well as the
astonishing Robert Tatin Museum near Laval.
108 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 109

The largest city is Laval, the capital, though
it’s the sort of small city where you can walk
everywhere quite easily. It’s a designated
“town of art and history” and very pretty.
There's plenty to see and do in the town.
On market days (Tuesday and Saturday),
in Place de la Trémoille, steaming pans of
paella, roasted chickens and huge bowls of
buttery new potatoes stop you in your tracks.
Jet black shiny mussels are bagged up by
vendors at a rate of knots, alongside plump
oysters from Cancale. At one end of Place de
la Trémoille a church looms and its bells toll
on the hour. Its mellow stone walls a brilliant
backdrop for the market. At the other end is
the chateau of the Lords of Laval, its bright
white exterior glistens in the sunshine. Now
an art venue which hosts one of the largest
naieve art collection in France and features
major works by Henri Rousseau who was born
in the town. In the side streets are cobbled
wiggly roads and half-timbered houses, cosy
cafés, dinky creperies and bistros. Don’t miss
the local cheese specialities: the famous
Port-Salut is made at Entrammes, just outside
Laval. Other Mayenne-made cheeses include
Chamois d’or, Chaussée aux Moines, Vieux
Pané, Saint Paulin, Rouy, Babybel, Bons
Mayennais and Président.
The department is a leading dairy producer
which make it an ideal choice for the world’s
largest dairy museum Lactopole in Laval.
Once hardly known even to the French,
Mayenne has become more popular in the
last few years as home buyers seek tranquil
locations with plenty of space, surrounded
by countryside. Property prices remain
affordable with plenty of bargains to be found,
especially for those willing to take on some
renovation. Being a somewhat undiscovered
area means that there is plenty of reasonably
priced property from chateaux – possibly the
most famous being that of Dick and Angel
Strawbridge of Escape to the Chateau whose
Chateau de la Motte Husson is about 20km
from Laval - to farmhouses, farm workers
cottages and traditional stone houses. For
those seeking equestrian properties, Mayenne
is definitely an area to consider with lots of
space and properties with lots of land.
The warm weather arrives early in spring and
can last right through to October or even
November. In winter it can get cold, but rarely
snows and the cold months don’t last too long.
If you’re looking for a tranquil and sunny area,
where property prices are tempting then this
could be just the place.
We can help with:
• Moving to France or Spain
• Setting up and running a business
• Help with VISA, residency and
work permits and taxes
• Legal advice and Insurance
• Healthcare advice
*on purchase of a pack, valid till 16 September 2022
50€* off
with the
code
TGL052023SM
B +33 950 75 81 92 a +34 711 05 32 28 pleasehelp.eu k
110 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 111

Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
WE OFFER THE LARGEST REFRIGERATED HOME DELIVERY
NETWORK ACROSS MAINLAND EUROPE.
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baconbythebox.com
FOUGASSE
with goats
cheese
INGREDIENTS
500 g (scant 4 cups / 1 lb 2 oz) all- purpose
(plain) flour (T55)
300 g (1 ¼ cups / 10 ½ oz) water at
20°C (68°F)
100 g (scant ½ cup / 3 ½ oz) Liquid Levain
(you can find the recipe here)
5 g (1 ½ tsp) fresh yeast, crumbled
10 g (2 tsp) Guérande sea salt
30 g (2 tbsp / 1 oz) extra-virgin olive oil + extra
for brushing
100 g (scant ½ cup / 3 ½ oz) crème fraîche
100 g (scant 1 cup / 3 ½ oz) grated
Emmental cheese
200 g (7 oz) goat cheese, sliced
METHOD
Serves 4
Preparation time 15 min
Resting time 3 h 15 min
Baking time 18 min
Put the flour, water, levain, yeast and salt into a
stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix and
knead for 5 minutes on low speed, then for 7
minutes on high speed. Add the olive oil and
knead for another 3 minutes. Gather the dough
into a ball, cover with a damp cloth and leave to
rest for 2 hours at room temperature. Midway
through the rest, deflate the dough by folding
it in half. It will have increased in volume by the
end of the resting time.
On a floured work counter, divide the dough into
four equal pieces. Working with one piece at a
time, turn it around on the work counter, bring
the edges in to the middle and press down. Turn
it again and shape into a ball, tucking the seam
underneath. Repeat with the other three pieces
of dough, then cover them with a damp cloth
and rest for 15 minutes.
Use a rolling pin to roll each piece of dough into
oval flatbreads, around 40 cm (16 inches) long
and about 5 mm (¼ inch) thick. Spread one half
of each flatbread with crème fraîche, leaving a
2cm (¾-inch) border around the edge. Sprinkle
with grated Emmental and top with slices of
goat cheese.
Use a dough cutter to make 3 wide slashes on
the ungarnished half of each flatbread, then fold
it over the other half. Seal all the edges. Place
the fougasse on lightly oiled baking sheets.
Cover with a damp cloth and prove (proof) for 1
hour at room temperature.
Place a baking pan on the lowest oven rack
and preheat the oven to 235°C (455°F). Once
the oven is hot, pour 50 ml (3 ½ tbsp / 1 ¾ fl oz)
water into the hot baking pan. Put the fougasse
and pan of water into the oven and bake for
4 minutes. Lower the temperature to 220°C
(425°F) and bake for another 14 minutes.
Remove the fougasse from the oven, brush them
lightly with olive oil and cool on a wire rack.
112 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 113

Plaited (braided)
BRIOCHE
Extracted from The Bread Book: 60 artisanal bread
recipes from one of the world’s greatest bakers –
French chef, master baker and best-selling author Éric
Kayser. Published by Phaidon Press 2022.
Photography © Massimo Pessina
Éric Kayser comes from a long line of French bakers,
and is the founder of the awardwinning
international bakery Maison Kayser.
Makes 3 brioches
Preparation time 50 min
Resting time 18 h
Baking time 25 min
EQUIPMENT:
3 loaf pans,
25 x 11 cm (10 x 4¼ inches)
INGREDIENTS
600 g (4¼ cups / 1 lb 5 oz) cake (pastry) flour
(T45/farine de gruau)
11 g (2 tsp) fine salt
22 g (generous 2 tbsp / ¾ oz)
fresh yeast, crumbled
85 g (scant 1/3 cup / 3 oz) water
at 20°C (68°F)
90 g (6 tbsp / 3¼ oz) full-fat (whole) milk
5 eggs
90 g (scant ½ cup / 3¼ oz)
caster (superfine) sugar
10 g (2 tsp) dark rum
6 g (1 tsp) orange flower water
6 g (1 tsp) vanilla extract
140 g (scant 2/3 cup / 5 oz) butter, softened
For the finishing
1 egg, beaten, for glazing
1 tbsp full-fat (whole) milk
pinch of fine salt
METHOD
The previous day, mix 100 g (¾ cup/ 3 ½oz)
of the flour with 2 g (1/3 tsp) of the salt in a
bowl, using a whisk. In a small bowl, dissolve
2 g (½ tsp) of the yeast in the water. Mix the
dissolved yeast into the flour and salt mixture
with a rubber spatula. Transfer the dough
to a floured work counter and shape into
a non-sticky ball. Put the dough into an
airtight container with a lightly greased lid
and refrigerate for at least 15 hours.
On the day, combine the milk with the eggs,
sugar, rum, orange flower water and vanilla
extract in a stand mixer fitted with a dough
hook. Mix on low speed, then crumble in
the remaining yeast and add the rest of
the flour and knead on low speed until
all ingredients are incorporated. Add the
remaining salt while kneading. Incorporate
the fermented dough from the previous day
and mix on medium speed for 15 minutes
until the dough comes away from the sides
of the bowl. Gradually add the butter and
knead for 15 minutes on high speed, until
the dough again comes away from the
sides. The dough should be smooth and
glossy. Transfer to a lightly floured bowl,
cover with cling film (plastic wrap) in direct
contact and leave to rise for 30 minutes at
room temperature. The dough should only
rise slightly. Refrigerate for between 2 hours
and overnight.
Preheat the oven to 30°C (86°F). On a
floured work counter, divide the dough into
nine pieces of equal weight (about 145 g /
5 ¼ oz each). Roll them into uniform
25–30-cm (10–12-inch) strips (a) (b) (c)
(d) (e). Place three strips vertically and
seal them together at one end. Then plait
(braid) them together (f) (g). Seal the other
end and tuck both ends under (h). Repeat
the operation to make two more brioches.
Transfer the brioches into greased loaf pans
and brush them with eggwash made by
beating the egg, milk and salt together. Turn
off the oven and put the brioches inside to
prove (proof) for 1 to 1½ hours.
Remove the brioches and preheat the oven
to 150°C (300°F). Glaze the brioches again
with eggwash and bake for about
25 minutes, keeping an eye on them.
Remove the brioches from the oven, then
cool on a wire rack.
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

Scallop &
vegetable
‘hot-air
balloons’ with
champagne sauce
Montgolfière de Saint-Jacques, petits légumes et sauce champagne
Serves 4
Active Time: 35 minutes
Cooking Time: 15–20 minutes
Chilling time: 20 minutes
Freezing time: 15 minutes
EQUIPMENT
Fine-mesh sieve
4 lion’s head (small, deep, ovenproof)
soup bowls
INGREDIENTS
Scallop and vegetable filling
3½ oz. (100 g) button mushrooms
Butter
Olive oil
3 ½ oz. (100 g) broccoli
3 oz. (80 g) celeriac
3 oz. (80 g) green asparagus
3 ½ oz. (100 g) baby carrots, tops on
2 oz. (60 g) thin French green beans
12 scallops (about 1 lb./480 g)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Champagne sauce
2 oz. (60 g) tomatoes
3 ½ oz. (100 g) shallots
1 tbsp (15 g) butter
1 ½ tbsp (15 g) flour
1 2⁄3 cups (400 ml) champagne
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml) white chicken stock
(fond blanc de volaille)
¼ cup (1 ½ oz./40 g)
crème fraiche
To assemble
9 oz. (250 g) quick puff pastry
1 generous tbsp (12 g) toasted sesame seeds
1 egg
2 egg yolks
To garnish (optional)
Shaved white truffle
METHOD
Preparing the scallop and vegetable filling
Wash and quarter the mushrooms and brown
them in a skillet over medium-high heat with a
little butter and olive oil. Season with salt and
pepper. Wash the broccoli, remove the florets,
and cut the most tender parts of the stalks into
small dice. Peel the celeriac and cut into ½ ×
1 ¼-in. (1 × 3-cm) sticks. Cut off the asparagus
tips ¾ in. (2 cm) from the ends (reserve the
tips for another use) and cut 1¼ in. (3 cm) off
the bases (discard). Cut each remaining stalk
into 4 diagonal pieces. Wash and scrub the
carrots and cut off the tops, leaving ½ in. (1
cm). Trim the ends off the green beans. Poach
all the vegetables (except the mushrooms) for
a few seconds in a large saucepan of boiling
salted water and plunge into ice-cold water to
stop the cooking. In a skillet with a little olive
oil and butter, cook the vegetables separately
over medium-high heat until lightly golden.
Season with salt and pepper, then chill until
assembling. In a clean skillet with a pat of
butter, brown the scallops on one side over
high heat for 1 minute, then place in the freezer
for 15–20 minutes to prevent them from overcooking
in the oven.
Preparing the champagne sauce
Wash and cut the tomatoes (skin on) into ½-in.
(1-cm) dice. Peel and finely chop the shallots
and cook in the butter over low heat until
softened. Stir in the flour and tomatoes. Pour
in the champagne and reduce by half. Add the
stock and let cook for about 10 minutes, then
stir in the crème fraîche and cook over low
heat until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
Strain through the fine-mesh sieve into a bowl,
pressing down to recover all the liquid.
Assembling the “hot air balloons”
Preheat the oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas
Mark 8). Roll the pastry to a thickness of 1⁄16 in.
(1.5 mm) and cut out 4 disks with a diameter
about ¾ in. (2 cm) greater than that of the
soup bowls. Divide the vegetables between
the bowls and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
Add 3 scallops and about ¼ cup (2 oz./60g)
of champagne sauce to each bowl. Whisk
together the egg and egg yolks to make an
egg wash and brush around the edges of each
pastry disk, making a ¾-in. (1.5-cm) border.
Place the disks over the bowls with the egg
wash side down. Gently press down around the
edges to seal the pastry to the bowls. Brush
the tops with egg wash, poke a small hole in
the center of each one to let steam escape,
and score decoratively with a fine-tipped knife.
Place in the oven, reduce the temperature to
430°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7), and bake for
20 minutes, until the pastry is puffed and
golden brown. Serve immediately, garnished
with shaved white truffle, if you wish.
Extracted from
Charcuterie: Pâtés,
Terrines, Savory Pies –
Recipes and Techniques
From the Ferrandi
School of Culinary
Arts by Ferrandi Paris
(Flammarion, 2023)
Photography credit © Rina Nurra
116 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 117

might be same ad
Last
Word
19 years ago this year, on a cold and sleety February morning, I boarded a ferry at
Dover and watched the famous White Cliffs fade as I headed to France on a day trip
with my dad and my husband. We were going to buy wine and cheese, have lunch
and head back home with our booty.
It didn’t quite work out as planned. We bought the wine and cheese. We couldn’t find
anywhere open to have lunch as we left it too late, and we succumbed to a cup of
coffee offered to us by a property agent who spotted not just our rather miserable
faces peering in his window but also an opportunity! Despite my adamant assertion
that 1. we didn’t want a house in France and 2. we couldn’t afford a house in France,
he persuaded us (me) to look at his three cheapest properties. And somehow I fell
in love with one of them despite the fact that frankly it was a hovel. I bought it there
and then (it was very cheap, less than the price of one of Kim Kardashian’s designer
handbags), though my dad said it was a ‘never ending job.’
Well this year may be the year we finally finish renovating. Stage one. Dad was
probably right. The house is now comfortable and I think, rather nice. We basically
built a house within the shell of an old barn that was insulated with tons of a mix of
muck, mud and straw which we spent many fun-filled days (not) removing. I’ve filled
the house with mementoes of my travels around France and with animals – 4 dogs
and 8 cats and occasionally a hedgehog called Charlie and a dove called Doris –
though it being summer, they are outside now with the chickens, ducks and geese.
Where I live in Pas de Calais, is very rural, very authentic, my dad used to say it
was like going back 50 years in England. There are no shops, bars or cafés in my
village, just 150 people – mostly farm workers – and 1000 cows in a very green
corner of paradise.
My 90-year-old neighbour Claudette has watched us toil on our house these past
two decades, laying floors where there was once dirt, putting in windows where there
were once holes and fixing a roof that you could once see the stars through.
“A house is built of logs and stone, of tiles and posts and piers” she said to me
recently, quoting her favourite author Victor Hugo. “A home is built of loving deeds
that stand a thousand years…”
Janine
Janine Marsh lives in France with her husband and around 60 animals. Her books My Good Life
in France, My Four Seasons in France and Toujours la France are available at Amazon and all
good book shops. Her new book How to be French will be published in October 2023.
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