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CHAMPAGNE<br />
TREND<br />
CAROLINE AND OLIVIER COLLARD<br />
subtle balance between power, finesse and purity<br />
in its Champagnes. The unique growths account<br />
for nearly 80% of volumes at this 16-hectare estate<br />
divided between the Côte des Blancs and the right<br />
bank of the Marne Valley. Each one of them reflects<br />
its vineyard sites, with no filters or artifice. “This<br />
might seem odd, but some of our wines are sold<br />
as still wines”, stresses Olivier Collard. “I conduct<br />
a very stringent selection of the wines I want to<br />
keep that best match my requirements”. Winemaking<br />
is as hands-off as possible, with native<br />
yeast during alcoholic fermentation, no malolactic<br />
fermentation and large oak barrels that<br />
promote micro-oxygenation and avoid adding<br />
any oaky flavours. The aim is that the people<br />
drinking them can easily understand the origin of<br />
the wine by recognising the grape varieties used<br />
and their original vineyard site. “The quality of<br />
the fruit is our only restriction because we know<br />
how to manage the rest”, points out Collard.<br />
“Generally speaking, the reason we take a low-intervention<br />
approach during winemaking is quite<br />
simply because we don’t need to intervene due<br />
to the stellar quality of the fruit. Over its 25-year<br />
history, the brand has built up a solera system of<br />
ageing which produces two perpetual reserves,<br />
complemented by nine years of bottle inventories.<br />
The result is virtually the only one of its kind<br />
in Champagne”.<br />
OLIVIER COLLARD IN HIS VINEYARDS ALONG THE RIGHT BANK OF THE MARNE VALLEY<br />
CHAMPAGNE LAURENT LEQUART:<br />
A NATURAL VINEYARD SETTING<br />
Nestled in the Marne Valley, this winery nurtures<br />
its vines with passion, showing respect for the<br />
sites and the environment over four generations.<br />
The main grape variety is still Meunier, an elegant,<br />
fruity varietal which is popular for its appetising<br />
flavours. Laurent Lequart is passionate about<br />
vines and wines and took over the family-run<br />
property in 1987. He now farms 11.4 hectares and<br />
markets 80,000 bottles a year, 60% of them in<br />
export markets. “Our Champagnes show distinctive<br />
roundness, finesse, fruitiness and freshness<br />
with endless moreish flavours”, comments Laurent<br />
Continue on page 32<br />
30 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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