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TASTING TASTING
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CHAMPAGNE
MAURICE VESSELLE
EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2013
Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the
southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes
for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site. The
house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages
and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers.
The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier
and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of vines
in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of winegrowers
have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage, hilling up,
ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered fanciful.
However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many vineyards.
By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils, the Vesselle
brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines to put
down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their Bouzy
vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use of
herbicides.
When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to
winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand
Cru 2013 label is blended from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It is
fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings,
allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then
matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars, alongside – primarily – its
collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is
added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty, bright yellow-gold hue. Its very pure,
intense nose offers up a fusion of red fruits, peach and apricot notes. The
palate reveals a mouth-filling attack with abundant freshness and intense,
persistent aromas. This is a vintage at its very best. Once again, Didier and
Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which sits
nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings
fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain
for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect. A
gastronomic Champagne pairing with chicken and morel mushrooms.
SELECTED BY
WINTER WINTER 2023 • 2023 GILBERT • GILBERT & GAILLARD & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH - THE FRENCH EXPERTS EXPERTS ON WINE ON WINE 31
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