ARGENTINA GRAPE MARTÍN KAISER, HEAD OF WINEMAKING AND VITICULTURE AT DOÑA PAULA, CLAIMS “MALBEC HELPED US FIND A STYLE OF WHAT A GOOD RED WINE SHOULD BE” Doña Paula is a Chilean-owned project that settled in Mendoza and produces a long list of labels with the varietal, such as Selección de Bodega, Parcel Alluvia, Parcel Los Indios, Altaluvia, Single Vineyard El Alto, Estate, Los Cardos, Rosé and Unique. In addition, in some blends, it uses Malbec as a majority grape in five wines: 1100, Estate Black Edition, Estate Blue Edition, Smoked and Los Cardos Red Blend. Doña Paula has a strong focus on foreign markets -70% of its exports are Malbec – and 60% of its vineyards are planted to the variety. As Kaiser explains, overseas, Doña Paula highlights the fact that the terroir where they source their Malbec is very different to most of the world’s major regions. “We have areas with relatively cool summers, but with great sunshine, which produce fruity wines with pleasant tannins. This style is highly sought after by global consumers who find Malbec easy to enjoy and feel it pairs well with a wide range of foods”. Another advantage is that it is a relatively easy variety to farm in the vineyard: “The vines are very rustic and adapt to soils of all types. They even tolerate some soil pests, such as phylloxera and nematodes, better than other fine varieties. Malbec is also tolerant to conditions conducive to fruit diseases that occur in some summers with higher rainfall”, concludes Kaiser. STAPHYLE: PIONEERING HIGH ALTITUDE MALBEC MALBEC ACCOUNTS FOR 70% OF DOÑA PAULA’S EXPORTS AND 60% OF ITS VARIETAL RANGE IN THE VINEYARD The Staphyle winery has blazed the trail for high-altitude Malbec wines in Potrerillos, a mountainous area in the foothills of the Andes, in Luján de Cuyo. Here, its vineyards border the Potrerillos reservoir, a relatively new landscape for winegrowing in Mendoza. Sebastián Olalla, the winery’s CEO, explains that “for Staphyle and Argentina, Malbec is the ultimate iconic varietal and it represents 75% of our exports”. Logically, 60% of Staphyle’s vines are Malbec, and vineyard management is designed to cater to its portfolio, which includes Malbec in every range, from entry level to luxury wines. Staphyle’s Malbecs are already exported to 28 countries, and Olalla stresses the importance of having a 98 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FAMILIA CROTTA PRODUCES 18 MILLION LITRES A YEAR AND EXPORTS 30% OF ITS WINES ALUVIA VINEYARD: A HIGH ALTITUDE EXPERIMENT ON THE EDGE OF THE ANDES STAPHYLE HAS MALBEC IN ALL RANGES, FROM ENTRY LEVEL TO HIGH-END SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 99
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SOUTH AFRICA BABYLONSTOREN FARM TO
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 23 54 69
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EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
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Have you ever savored the exquisite
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NEWS FRAPIN 1990: TOTAL GRATIFICATI
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BORDEAUX MARKETS LEFT TO RIGHT, BRO
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ALL THE VINEYARDS BELONGING TO BORD
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IN EUROPE, BORDEAUX VINEAM ACHIEVES
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4 covers: France, Spain, Italy, Sou
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GÉRALDINE LEFEBVRE-LOPEZ, THE OWNE
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BORDEAUX MARKETS The Lopez family h
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THE RESPECTABLE VALUES OF PREMIUM C
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and the quality of the wine they pr
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CHAMPAGNE TREND Europe or more matu
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CHAMPAGNE TREND tial and expressive
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TASTING TASTING RARE RARE BOTTLE BO
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WINEMAKER DAVID CHABOCHE AND MANAGI
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ITALY TERROIR THE RIVE DI ROLLE, BE
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NAZARENO AND STEFANO POLA, THE FATH
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ITALY TERROIR - 20,600 bottles a ye
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ITALY TERROIR The Prosecco displays
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FOUR GENERATIONS OF THE BRESSAN FAM
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SOUTH AFRICA GRAPE FAIRVIEW HARVEST
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