GG_N54_AFS-web

SOUTH AFRICA
GRAPE
Anthony De Jager, chief winemaker at Fairview, emphasizes the importance of
understanding history in appreciating the winery’s trajectory.
“It started with Cyril Back, a staunch Shiraz lover whose enthusiasm was infectious,
and he recognized the variety as a flagship grape for the Paarl region.”
In Fairview’s early days, wine was crafted in open concrete fermenters and French
oak barrels were only introduced 15 years later. And although these wines were hard
to drink in their youth, De Jager reflects on recently enjoying one of those original
wines, marvelling at its ageing potential. Their innovation extends beyond Shiraz in
the Rhône sphere. They were the first to bring Viognier into the country, planting their
first block in Paarl. De Jager made their inaugural 1997 Viognier that won international
acclaim, marking the beginning of Fairview’s reputation as a pioneering force
for Rhône varieties including the first Mourvèdre and contributing to the introduction
of Roussanne and Marsanne.
“Our Fairview Cyril Back 2020 received five stars in the Diners Club Platters Wine
Guide 2024. It was also named wine of the year in the Shiraz/Syrah category. Other
five-star achievers include the Fairview Primo Pinotage 2021, the Fairview Beryl Black
2022 and Fairview Caldera 2021, a Grenache-based Southern Rhône-style that scored
92 points from Gilbert & Gaillard.”
In 1998 came the wine that caused a stir–the infamous Goats Do Roam (scoring 87/100
alongside its rosé and white counterpart scoring 88) - a resourceful blend of Shiraz,
Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, and other Rhône varieties. In the quest for Grenache,
these mavericks stumbled upon old vines in Piekenierskloof, sought after to this day.
Goats Do Roam was a historical milestone, launching a Rhône-style wine in South
Africa before the widespread popularity of Bordeaux stars, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot. The launch in the US sparked controversy, with claims that the name sounded
HARVEST TIME AT FAIRVIEW
WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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