Jeweller - May 2024

MUGHAL GOLD & 125-CARAT
EMERALD PENDANT / BROOCH
1526–1857AD
HELLENIC GOLD FILIGREE
ARMBAND
200 - 300AD
CHINESE QING PERIOD GOLD &
AMETHYST DRAGON MEDALLION
1736 - 1795AD
jewellery. Gold is also resistant to tarnishing
and rusting, meaning the warm glow of the
precious metal has long been an apt symbol of
eternal prosperity for the rich and powerful.
The earliest known examples of gold jewellery
can be traced to 4400 BC; however, it was likely
worn earlier. Archaeologists in Bulgaria have
discovered hundreds of pieces of gold jewellery
from the Thracian era.
Among the notable treasures was a pair of
gold earrings highlighted by an engraving of
an animal's head, which was preserved in a
monument.
In Ancient Egypt (3100 BC), gold jewellery was
worn by the wealthiest members of society.
Gold was used in abundance by pharaohs. In
1922, when the tomb of King Tutankarmum
was discovered, it was packed with gold.
The Australian Museum in Sydney recently
hosted the Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs
exhibition – showcasing jewellery that is more
than 3,500 years old. Among the necklaces,
bracelets, rings, earrings, amulets, and
diadems was the Collar of Psusennes I,
weighing 4.3 kilograms.
Collars of this type were known as the shebyu
or ‘gold of honour,’ traditionally given by a
pharaoh to officials who had served with
particular distinction. Pharaohs also wore the
collar as a mark of divine favour.
The culture of Ancient Greece (1200 BC)
mirrored these beliefs, with elaborate jewellery
worn by aristocrats to symbolise their power.
The Greeks also believed that gold offered
protection from evil forces.
"A widespread belief
among the Incas was
that gold is tears from
the sun. "
A wide variety of jewellery was produced in
the Hellenistic period, including earrings,
necklaces, pendants, pins, bracelets,
armbands, thigh bands, finger rings,
wreaths, and diadems.
Bracelets were often worn in pairs according
to Persian fashion, and jewellery was
frequently produced in matched sets.
While silver was more widely available in
Ancient China (2070 BC), gold jewellery was
popular nonetheless. It was worn by men and
women and believed to protect the wearer from
misfortune.
The cultural significance of elaborate gold
jewellery in India was so significant that many
of these beliefs remain active today.
During the Mughal Empire (1526-1719), gold
jewellery was thought to offer protection to
its wearer and increase the chances of future
fortune.
As such, it was popular among royalty. These
beliefs evolved into the custom of gifting gold
jewellery to brides to ensure future financial
security, a tradition that continues today.
Cosmic charm
A widespread belief among the Incas (1438-
1533) was that gold is tears from the sun. It’s
remarkable to compare this mythology with our
modern scientific understanding.
When two neutron stars collide, the explosion
involves enough pressure to forge elements
heavier than iron – including gold.
It’s believed that these gold particles were
mixed in a cosmic cloud of gas, with dust
expelled into space from the supernova that
formed Earth.
The gold sank into the Earth’s core but rose to
the mantle and crust after asteroid strikes. If it
hadn’t been for this bombardment from space,
much of the gold mined today likely would’ve
been too deep underground.
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