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THE ROUGH GUIDE to - Parallels Plesk Panel

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Beijing’s facelift<br />

Beijing has always been image-conscious – anxious <strong>to</strong> portray a<br />

particular face <strong>to</strong> the world. When Mao <strong>to</strong>ok over, he wanted the feudal<br />

city of the emperors transformed in<strong>to</strong> a “forest of chimneys”; he got his<br />

wish, and the capital became an ugly industrial powerhouse of socialism.<br />

In the 1980s, when the Party embraced capitalism “with Chinese<br />

characteristics”, bland international-style office blocks were erected with<br />

a pagoda-shaped “silly hat” on the roof as a concession <strong>to</strong> local taste.<br />

Modern Beijing, eager <strong>to</strong> be viewed as a cool and stylish world city,<br />

and <strong>to</strong> express China’s new global dominance, has undergone the kind<br />

of urban transformation usually only seen after a war. In recent years,<br />

fac<strong>to</strong>ries were banished <strong>to</strong> the suburbs, six new subway lines opened,<br />

a new terminal (designed by Norman Foster) was added <strong>to</strong> the airport,<br />

and some $10 billion has been spent on greening projects including a<br />

tree belt around the city <strong>to</strong> control the dust s<strong>to</strong>rms that whip in from<br />

the Gobi Desert. Now, statement architecture – the kind of massive,<br />

prestige project that not long ago would have been derided as bourgeois<br />

and decadent – is all the rage, designed by the world’s hottest (and most<br />

expensive) architects.<br />

As well as the fantastic venues built for the 2008 Olympics (the<br />

most famous of which, the “Bird’s Nest”, is shown below), there’s Paul<br />

Andreu’s National Opera House (the “Egg”), and perhaps most striking<br />

of all, the new state television station (the “Twisted Doughnut”) by<br />

Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, which appears <strong>to</strong> defy gravity with its<br />

intersecting Z-shaped <strong>to</strong>wers.<br />

All this has been made possible by light planning laws, deregulation<br />

and the willingness of the government <strong>to</strong> allow developers <strong>to</strong> sweep<br />

homes away without much compensation <strong>to</strong> residents. Regrettably, little<br />

of old Beijing has been preserved, with hu<strong>to</strong>ng neighbourhoods such<br />

as those around Qianmen levelled en masse. The city has been left with<br />

a disjointed feel; there’s something arbitrary about the skyscrapers and<br />

single-use zones around them. Beijing <strong>to</strong>day looks modern, indisputedly,<br />

but it has some way <strong>to</strong> go before you could call it beautiful.<br />

| INTRODUCTION | WHAT TO SEE | WHEN TO GO<br />

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