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22<br />

fred forest (Mascara,<br />

Algeria, 1933; lives and<br />

works in Paris, france),<br />

White Invades the City, São<br />

Paulo, October 1973;<br />

demonstration with blank<br />

placards; one <strong>of</strong> a series <strong>of</strong><br />

public experiments forming<br />

part <strong>of</strong> his participation in<br />

the XII Bienal de São Paulo.<br />

© fred forest<br />

MEETING MARGINS<br />

TRANSNATIONAL ART IN EUROPE & LATIN AMERICA 1950–78<br />

This AHRC-funded project concentrates on events, practices and processes<br />

forming critical links across different Latin American countries and<br />

between Latin America and Europe. Incorporating a deliberate shift from<br />

the habitual reliance on New York as the pole <strong>of</strong> critical art in the post-<br />

war years, we have aimed to research and write away from the centres and<br />

languages more <strong>of</strong>ten relied on to narrate post-war art. Our case studies<br />

include peripatetic ideas, artworks and individuals, and temporary formations<br />

– such as critical meetings, exhibitions or projects <strong>of</strong> political solidarity.<br />

Meeting Margins is an instance <strong>of</strong> an increasingly prevalent focus on<br />

border-crossing encounter – where exchanges are recovered as a means<br />

to dismantle nationally determined historiographies and <strong>school</strong>s <strong>of</strong> art.<br />

The terms according to which this turn is articulated are <strong>of</strong>ten pacific<br />

(‘productive dialogue’, ‘meaningful influence’, ‘breaking down <strong>of</strong> borders’)<br />

and an impetus for the project was observing its benign emergence<br />

within the field <strong>of</strong> Latin American Art. We wanted to contribute to but also<br />

to question a marked turn from nation to relation. A vital part <strong>of</strong> this<br />

process has been the creation <strong>of</strong> critical platforms where emerging research<br />

from across Europe and the Americas can be openly debated, including<br />

the First International Research Forum for Graduate Students and Emerging<br />

Scholars, held in collaboration with the University <strong>of</strong> Texas at Austin in<br />

2009. Research provoked by Meeting Margins has been disseminated by individual<br />

essays and articles and will be published as a book edited by the<br />

project’s core members, Michael Asbury and Isobel Whitelegg (TrAIN, UAL),<br />

and Valerie Fraser and Maria Iñigo Clavo (University <strong>of</strong> Essex).<br />

MISTRA fUTURE fASHION<br />

PRINCIPAL INVESTIGATOR: REBECCA EARLEY<br />

GUEST PROfESSOR AT KONSTfACK AND CO-INVESTIGATOR:<br />

PROf. KAY POLITOWICZ<br />

The research programme ‘Mistra Future Fashion’ is funded by the Swedish<br />

Government via Mistra, the Foundation for Strategic Environmental<br />

Research, to bring about a significant change in the Swedish fashion industry<br />

leading to sustainable development both in the industry and in wider<br />

society. The scale <strong>of</strong> the project marked it as one <strong>of</strong> the most comprehensive<br />

studies <strong>of</strong> market and business models in the fashion industry. Changes<br />

to the key stages in the lifecycle <strong>of</strong> a product – changes in the supply chain to<br />

the design <strong>of</strong> clothing, to the materials used, to consumer behaviour<br />

and the influence exerted by government are the subject <strong>of</strong> multidisciplinary<br />

focus.<br />

The consortium structure integrates eight cross-disciplinary research<br />

projects, including natural, social and political sciences and design, creating<br />

a common research platform. The consortium represents insights from different<br />

theoretical perspectives that will be used to develop new knowledge<br />

concerning systemic change in the Swedish fashion indus try, providing<br />

insights into comparable markets worldwide. This will include how textiles<br />

and garments are designed and produced, how the industry interacts with<br />

consumers and how a sustainable lifecycle is evaluated.<br />

Fashion has a significant environmental impact on climate change and<br />

water. The massive and increasing clothing and textile volumes in society<br />

have become an environmental burden, especially since very little <strong>of</strong><br />

the used items are reused or fibre recycled. The fashion industry – and particularly<br />

Sweden-based fashion companies – have a huge potential to contribute<br />

to effective and economic shifts towards more sustainable practice.<br />

In March <strong>2011</strong>, TED (Textiles Environment Design research group at CCW)<br />

was awarded £500 000 to address the question, ‘How can sustainable<br />

design processes be created and embedded within companies and gain the<br />

participation <strong>of</strong> consumers?’. The research will be led by Rebecca Earley<br />

and is designed to contribute to the existing body <strong>of</strong> knowledge by focusing<br />

on practical changes that will influence the environment for sustainable<br />

fashion. To date there is little scientific knowledge <strong>of</strong> how coalitions <strong>of</strong> stakeholders<br />

can induce institutional changes to promote sustainability. The<br />

work will be comprised <strong>of</strong> close cooperation between TED’s TEN strate gies<br />

for sustainable design and research into synthetic fibres from cellulosic<br />

compounds. The design task is to employ interconnected design thinking in<br />

textiles and fashion to innovate at all stages <strong>of</strong> the cradle-to-cradle<br />

‘environment’.<br />

23

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