VOL. 68, NO. 2 - AAFI-AFICS, Geneva - UNOG

You pull up in your own driveway and use your cell phone to see if anyone is home to help you carry in the
groceries.
Every commercial on television has a web site at the bottom of the screen.
Leaving the house without your cell phone, which you didn’t have the first 20 or 30 (or 60) years of your life,
is now a cause for panic and you turn around to go and get it.
You get up in the morning and go on line before getting your coffee.
You start tilting your head sideways to smile.
You are reading this and nodding and laughing.
TRAVEL
VISIT CAMBODIA – WE MUST NEVER FORGET
It was only in 1992 that Angkor was classified as a cultural heritage. Far too late to save most of the temples
that had already been ruthlessly pillaged despite the many documentaries that had illustrated their beauty
and fragility. They are a unique symbol of the history of the Khmers. It is as if we were to destroy Versailles.
Although I agree with the guide books that Angkor Wat is somewhat over publicized and photographed, I
could not help being spellbound. After listening to our young guide who knew the history of her country so
well, all we needed to do was to follow the scenes of the story of Ramayana on the extraordinarily well
preserved bas-reliefs along the immense galleries: the churning of the ocean of milk (amritamanthana is one
of the fundamental myths of Hinduism), the “Heavens and Hells” with its procession of the blessed and the
wicked, and many other scenes. It would need 10’000 photographs to convey my admiration of the detail, the
imagination and the beauty of the Apsara sculptures. We played the true tourists by going to the “Son et
Lumière”, which gave us even more pleasure in listening again to the story of Ramayana, and in the evening
only the splendours of the site can are be seen.
It was, however, at the Bayon at Angkor Thom that I remained breathless at the sight of the towers with
those faces that contemplate you smiling, visited with an interior light, and certain of their strength and
eternity, although 1200 years have left scars that reveal the greed of man. Indeed, maybe nature that had
covered them for centuries foresaw this sad future and tried to protect them.
We were fortunate to be almost alone during these visits because the crisis at Bangkok airport had deprived
Cambodia of its tourists. Cambodia has no international airport, so visitors have to transit in neighbouring
countries. Our choice of a semi private tour also allowed us time to appreciate, see, and visit some lesser
known or less accessible sites.
Another marvel awaited us at the temple of Banteay Srei, a jewel of pink sandstone in the morning light.
We were rewarded with a final recompense of a visit to the temple of Koh Ker with its pyramid so similar to
the Matchu Pitchu and Beng Mealea. Once again, nature has shown its strength, roots grasping the towers
like a boa grasping its prey. It is a long drive to reach these temples, and numerous signposts warned that
mines are still reminders of the Cambodian tragedy.
After a very interesting visit to the Museum of Siem Reap, we were lucky enough to see the spectacles put
on by the Cultural Centre which show that the Cambodians have the need to remember their traditions.
I can but recommend a visit, really soon, to these splendours, if possible individually rather than in a group
with too many images, seen too quickly. There are guides who speak French even though the population at
large has completely forgotten the language. They welcome those who have rediscovered their temples,
Henri Mouhot and the very controversial André Malraux. What more can be said than to give praise to a
people that are poor but never envious.
Odette Foudral
37